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Berlin
December 2017 – January 2018

A Berlin Holiday
Christmas & New Year in the German Capital
Neukölln
Berlin’s new place to be
inyourpocket.com
N°90 - €1.75
Contents

Arriving & Transport 5


Getting around by S&U

Basics 6
Essential travel tips

Berlin’s Districts 7

Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlin’s top teams

Culture & Events 10


Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
© Benkrut | Dreamstime.com
Neukölln 19
Find out why it’s being called Kreuzkölln

Berlin Mitte 22 Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 35


The delights of the city centre Genteel western Berlin

Berlin Friedrichshain 42
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 44
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled The gentrified north

V Home delivery E Live music Berlin Kreuzberg 48


N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room City Tours 57
S Take away R Internet Guided walks, bike rides and drives
W Wi-Fi
Directory & Street register 60
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Maps & Index
City map 61-63
L Guarded parking H Conference facilities
Public transport map 64-65
F Fitness centre K Restaurant Index 66
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café BERLIN BOXES
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine. Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with
more information about these topics:
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person. Berlin in Books 17
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person. Erasmus Student Network 6
Food with a View 24
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person. Museum Insel 30

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 3


Foreword
We like Berlin in the spring. We like Berlin in the summer.
Publisher
We even like Berlin in the autumn. But Berlin in the In Your Pocket GmbH
winter? We love it. Cold it may be, with a wind that can Axel-Springer-Straße 39
often appear to have sharp edges, but there’s a brutal 10969 Berlin
beauty to the place that the other seasons just don’t Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
offer. If it snows, all the better: a gorgeous white frame Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
pervades everything and everyone, magnifying the scale germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
of this grandiose city.
ISSN 1611-9037
Christmas in Berlin (and the run up to it) is a particularly Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
delicious time to be in the city. With its peerless markets, Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
currywurst and mulled wine on every street corner a day The public transport map is used under license no. BVG‑0079.11.
or two exploring the delights of festive Berlin is almost
as much fun as Christmas Day itself. It is also worth Editorial
remembering that this is one city that does not totally Editor Jeroen van Marle
Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tomáš Haman
close down for Christmas. There are events a plenty on the Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
day itself, and public transport runs throughout (read it and Maps Kartographie Eichner
weep, Londoners). Cover © badahos, istockphoto.com

As for New Year’s Eve, few places on earth party as hard Sales & Circulation
as Berlin. Don’t make any plans for an early night. In General Manager Stephan Krämer
Production Manager Philippe Krüger
fact, prepare for the seriously long haul. Whatever you
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
are doing, be it in a restaurant, pub, club or simply out Advertising Managers CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
on the street (and you really are spoilt for choice) this
will be the biggest party of the year, and next. On word Copyright notice & Editor’s note
of advice: if you do plan on spending the night in a Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
restaurant, pub or club, make a reservation in advance. copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
Most places sell out. part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
We at Berlin In Your Pocket will, as always, be out on the UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
streets for New Year’s Eve. The biggest public party is at tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
the Brandenburg Gate, complete with live music, DJs and The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
fireworks. Wrap up warm and bring your own bubbly. from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
Happy New Year. responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Arrival & Transport
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
such good public transport. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just www.wuerfelfunk.de.
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local. CYCLING
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
services. Vending machines have instructions in English may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,80, ABC €3,40) cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-
Karte, €9). Buy a €1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if
CITY CARDS
you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get to travel around town a lot and see more than one
the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
€7,00) or the seven-day pass (€30,00). Groups of up to five and youths may get better reductions at museums
people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day using their student ID cards.
ticket, €19,90). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€19,50-
42,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. BERLIN WELCOMECARD
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes hours (AB €19,50, ABC €21,50), 72 hours (€27,50/29,50),
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll and 4 (€31,50/34,50), 5 (€35,50/40,50) or 6 days
be fined €60 on the spot. (€41,50/45,50). There’s also a 72-hour variety (€42/44)
that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel
BVG museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks.
and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de, is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts
www.bvg.de/en. geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs
€17,50 for AB, €19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours,
TAXIS 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing 50 museums, including the permanent collections of
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same with the Berlin Museum Pass (€24/12, valid three days).
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 5
Basics
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

DRINKS & ALCOHOL


Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita MONEY
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denom-
Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only real- inations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins,
ly palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock- whose design depends on in which country they were
tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
just below the top label and top it up with wodka). Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

CRIME & SAFETY VISAS AND ENTRY


Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty FORMALITIES
crimes are low compared to other Western European cap- EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk- Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas. days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schen-
ELECTRICITY gen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand- Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
many hotels will have them at the front desk too. for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

ERASMUS STUDENT CLIMATE


NETWORK
30 80

How do international students get to meet locals 25 70


and the city during an academic exchange? The 60
20
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
Temperature °C

Rainfall (mm)

50
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student 15
40
associations in Europe. It was developed to help 10
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present 30
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 5
20
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section 0 10
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
-5 0
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C)
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.

6 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Berlin’s Districts
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often find everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
© dreamstime.com
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it
to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
deportations of the Nazi era. of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, the staid parts of the district.
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)
becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
TIERGARTEN (TG) Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing breakfast all day.
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl. FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
KREUZBERG (KB) Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off Zehlendorf (ZD).
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 7
Christmas in Berlin

Christmas Eco-market on Sophienstrasse

Berlin’s many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachts-


märkte) are the undoubted highlight of Christmas in CHRISTMAS MARKETS
the German capital. and they bustle with both tourists CHRISTMAS ECO-MARKET SOPHIENSTRASSE
and locals. There are often as many as 60 around the In Mitte’s designer and gallery district, the ‘eco-friendly’
city, although some are better than others, and not all Christmas market takes place on Sophienstrasse, one
are worth your time. The better ones offer music, food, of Berlin’s most beautiful streets. Stands sell all manner
drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets offer of useful, eco-friendly and unusual Christmas gifts, of
mainly handicrafts and decorations such as the popular German or fair-trade origin. The market is kept stylish and
wooden trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains. They low-key, and a limited but fine selection of food stands
are an integral part of the Berlin Christmas experience, offers crepes, organic Bratwurst, raclette and Glühwein.
and you should certainly do all you can to make sure There’s live music, performers, angels, and Santa drops
you visit at least one. Those worth visiting (besides the by every day for the children.QSophienstraße, Mitte,
wonderful Sophienstrasse Market we highlight below) MS Hackescher Markt, www.weihnachtsmarkt-
include the Spandauer Weihnachtsmarkt (open 11:00- sophienstrasse.de. Open 2-3, 9-10 & 10-11, 16-17 Dec;
20:00 Sun-Thu, 11:00-22:00 Fri-Sat until December 23rd), Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
the Weihnachtsmarkt an der Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
Kirche (open 11:00-21:00 Sun-Thu, 11:00-22:00 Fri, Sat.
This market is also open on Christmas Day and Boxing
Day, from 13:00-21:00). Elsewhere around the city there
HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES
are loads of shows and events: from classical Christmas Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays
concerts to offbeat comedy and cabaret., and even (from 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain
just exploring Berlin at this time of year is a real treat. open till late at night on weekdays. Museums are
Shoppers should note that most stores - usually closed largely open during the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof
on Sundays - will be open during December, perfect for tourist office is open daily during the holidays, but may
last minute Christmas shopping. On New Year’s Eve the close earlier on the 24th. Public transport operates as
biggest party of the year will be held at the Brandenburg on Sundays on 25 Dec and 1 Jan, and has extra services
Gate, complete with live music, DJs and an amazing running throughout the night on New Years’ Eve.
fireworks display at midnight.
8 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Christmas in Berlin
CHRISTMAS FOOD & DRINK 22nd Environment and
Like no other nation the Germans are crazy about mulled
wine (known as Glühwein in these parts). You will find it Christmas Market
all over the city at this time of year and you really ought to
make sure you drink some. When it comes to food Germans
Sophienstrafle 2017
like to eat duck, goose and rabbit at Christmas: always Sophisticated items at a
roasted with stuffing (often made of apples) and served magical illuminated Christmas Access fro
m
Rosentha
with red cabbage and potato dumplings. For dessert, fair near the gallery quarter ler Strafle
or
through H
ackesche
the classic German Christmas dish is stollen, a fruit bread Hˆfe, (Hof
VI)
containing dried fruit and often covered with powdered
sugar or icing sugar. The bread is usually made with
chopped candied fruit and/or dried fruit, nuts and spices.

First s
end
3 we e k e n t
o f Ad v
0-20:00
Sat 12:0 0-19:00
Sun 11:0
www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de

CHRISTMAS GARDEN

© visitBerlin, Wolfgang Scholvien

There are a few restaurants which really go the extra


© Christmas Garden Berlin
mile at Christmas in Berlin, laying on all sorts of special
German seasonal treats, both food and drink. Our In 2013, London’s famous Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew
favourites include Renger Patsch (see p.38) where the started lighting up the greenhouses and plants at night
portions of sauerkraut with pork belly will be bigger than around Christmas, enchanting thousands of visitors. This
ever, and their legendary Alsatian tarte flambees are the year, as an alternative to the crowded Christmas markets,
perfect winter warmers. At the famous Berlin restaurant Berlin’s grand Botanischer Garten will also be open every
Zillemarkt (p.38), the amazing apple strudel will be night from 16 November to 7 January, treating visitors
much sought after, the perfect accompaniment for the to a spectacular winters walk through wonderfully lit
special winter brews served. For a contemporary Berlin foliage and greenhouses. The 2 km-long route winds
Christmas meal try Riehmers (p.53), which is laying itsway inside and outside, past millions of lightpoints and
on special set menus throughout the Christmas holidays. hundreds of illuminations and 3D figures themed after
Their Christmas Day menu offers five courses and costs €69, Christmas and botany.
while the New Year’s Eve menu consists of no fewer than CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN, Botanischer Garten,
eight courses and costs €89. Wherever you choose to eat Königin-Luise-Straße 6-8, S Botanischer Garten.
at Christmas and New Year, do check that they will be open 16 Nov - 7 Jan 16:30 - 22:00, closed 24 & 31 Dec.
when you want to eat: opening hours vary. You will also Admission €17-19, www.christmas-garden.de.
need a reservation just about anywhere.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 9
Sports in Berlin

Eisbären Berlin | © City-Press GmbH

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports – the


city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)
five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union, the
Eisbären, Alba, Füchse and the BR Volleys. Home matches
attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; every
season over two million tickets are sold. In addition, Berlin’s
streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public
viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at
the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second
largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games
Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional founded back in 1892 - so is this year celebrating its
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international 125th anniversary - and is known as the Alte Dame,
sports event destination. the old lady. Its most successful years were between
1926 and 1931, although Hertha did make the semi-
The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you finals of the UEFA Cup in 1979. Shortly after however,
don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match dark times hit the club, who spent much of the 1980s
and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in and early 1990s in the second division. Back in the
Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem Bundesliga this time since 2012 they now look set to
to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or stay, although this season has so far been something
evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing of a disappointment, stuck in mid-table. They were
where can be problematic for visitors however, as websites also knocked-out in the group phase of the Europa
are not all available in English, and some make it difficult to League.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion),
find the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805
we have listed all home matches for the following months, 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.
though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes
or additional matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports 07.12 21:05 » Östersunds FK
website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information 13.12 20:30 » Hannover 96
about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site 19.01 20:30 » Borussia Dortmund
www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
10 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Sports in Berlin
EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)
Originating in 1953 in East Also known as the Albatrosse,
Germany’s Dynamo sports club, Berlin’s basketball club is
the ‘polar bears’ are Berlin’s popular Germany’s most successful, and
professional ice hockey team. They has the largest fanbase; home
won the national league 7 times, matches easily attract 10,000
have also bagged the European spectators. Since going pro in
Trophy. Their home matches at the 1991, Alba has won the German
Mercedes-Benz-Arena are true familyfests, with a festive, League eight times and the German Cup seven times.
good-humoured atmosphere. The Eisbären, who went They have made a good start to the current season, losing
close to the title last season, have been the team to only three of their first twelve games, and look well set for
watch so far in 2017-18. They top the league table a playoff spot.QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-
with the best record, well ahead of their main rivals the Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel.
Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers. They are already - at the halfway +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.
stage of the season - all but guaranteed a play-off spot. 12.12 20:00 » Limoges CSP
QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), 23.12 18:00 » Science City Jena
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 27.12 18:00 » Mitteldeutscher BC
97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €14-45. 27.12 20:00 » Retabet Bilbao
13.12 19:30 » Krefeld Pinguine 29.12 20:00 » Löwen Braunschweig
15.12 19:30 » Kölner Haie
19.12 19:30 » Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers
26.12 16:30 » Fischtown Pinguins Bremerhaven BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
30.12 16:30 » Düsseldorfer EG
02.01 19:30 » Schwenninger Wild Wings
07.01 14:00 » Iserlohn Roosters
23.01 19:30 » Grizzlys Wolfsburg
31.01 19:30 » Augsburger Panther

Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the


western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home
FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL) matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer
Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful
since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga
title six times, including 2016 and 2017. Their start to
this season has been up and down, but thoughts now
turn to the Champions League campaign, which begins
Nicknamed Eisern Union (Iron Union), FC Union is in December.QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
traditionally the working man’s Berlin team, originating Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-
in East Berlin in 1966 and often a counterweight to recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.
the GDR’s state-influenced (and very much unloved)
Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely independent, based
in a charming stadium, An der Alten Försterei. The club FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)
has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem The Foxes, Berlin’s handball team,
sung by punk legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly is part of an old West Berlin sports
owned by passionate fans. Currently enjoying one of club, and now plays home matches
their best periods for some time under coach Jens in Prenzlauer Berg’s Max-Schmeling-
Keller, they finished fourth in the 2. Bundesliga in 2017, Halle, named after the boxing
narrowly missing out on promotion. So far this year legend who was world champion
they have played reasonably well, but despite being heavyweight between 1930-32. The Füchse finished
in the top four they gave perhaps not dominated the last season fourth in the Bundesliga, and so far this
league as many pundits were expecting.QAn der campaign have swept all before them, losing just
Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), two of their opening 15 games.QG‑1, Am Falkplatz
Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U
www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €12-43. Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.
09.12 13:00 » FC Union v. SG Dynamo Dresden fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.
15.12 18:30 » FC Union v. FC Ingolstadt 04 10.12 12:30 » MT Melsungen
26.01 18:30 » FC Union v. 1. FC Nürnberg 26.12 15:00 » SC Magdeburg

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 11


Culture & Events
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres
GALLERIES and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets -
and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund
it all.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC


KOMISCHE OPER
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF‑3,
EastSideGallery © pixaby
Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel.
Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets
flux, and perhaps now more than ever. Several large €9-150.
museums are closed for lengthy renovations that will
last until the end of the decade, and the contemporary KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
art scene is on the move, with artists fleeing the rising Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom
rents in the Mitte district for atelier space in outlying churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular
districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural nodes architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions. concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
BERLINISCHE GALERIE at the venue.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
This museum for modern art, photography, architecture, Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de.
and artist archives concentrates a century worth of Tickets €10-99.
creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980.
Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning
city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell.QG‑4, Alte Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, Unter den Linden are completed.QC‑3, Bismarckstraße
tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.
C/O BERLIN
Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near
Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents chang- SHOWS
ing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current ADMIRALSPALAST
exhibitions of protest photos by Gordon Parks and This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
conflict photography by Broomberg & Chanarin are operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler
well worth seeing.QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so
30 284 44 16 62, www.co-berlin.org. that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’,
and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With
SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals.
Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße,
using old techniques, especially the wetplate method tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows
which was invented in 1851 and was the first time Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.
photos could be shot with short exposure times.
At the gallery and shop you can view the resulting
high-quality photos, and have one made.QSlow
Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49 152 ASK THE CONCIERGE
17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
KÖNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann König, reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
for though-provoking art.QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstraße be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
118-121, tel. +49 30 26 10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de. of their jackets.

12 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in DEUTSCHE OPER
Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for
an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then West Berlin’s 2000-seat opera building with its
it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical
the audience.QE‑3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU performances. Originally opened in 1912 as the modern,
Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am- ‘democratic’ counterpart to the royal opera house on
kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Unter den Linden, it has a reputation for modern works
Tickets €20-55. and underrepresented composers. Donald Runnicles
is the principal conductor.QB‑3, Bismarckstraße 35,
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. 09.12 18:00, 16.12 18:00, 04.01 18:00,
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest 07.01 17:00 » LE PROPHÈTE
revues in town.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Giacomo Meyerbeer’s epic (four and a half hours) and
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show- rarely performed opera. Jean de Leyden is played by
palace.eu. Tickets €18-106. Gregory Kunde, Enrique Mazzola conducts.Q€39-170.
10.12 18:00, 15.12 19:00, 21.12 19:00, 28.12
BLUE MAN GROUP 19:00 » THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing Seth Carico takes the title role, with Davide Luciano
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and as Duke Almaviva in Mozart’s commedia per musica.
musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little Nicholas Carter conducts.€29-95.
spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
with many new sketches and elements.QE‑4, Marlene 13.12 19:30, 26.12 18:00, 30.12 19:30 » THE
Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 BARBER OF SEVILLE
1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue - Fri 20:00; Rossini’s melodrama buffo in two acts. In Italian
Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €59,90. language with German and English surtitles. Ido Arad
conducts.Q€29-95.
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ 17.12 17:00 » LOHENGRIN
One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as Wagner’s epic romantic opera in three acts. Donald
a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show Runnicles conducts.Q€39-128.
with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. 20.12 19:30, 23.12 19:30, 29.12 19:30, 31.12
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are 15:00 & 19:30, 02.01 19:30 » LA BOHEME
served during the break. New shows are put on several Yosep Kang is Rodolfo in Puccini’s classic, based on the
times per year.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, novel Scènes de la vie de bohème by Henri Murger.Q
MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www. €22-128.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets €37,20-70,20. 27.12 19:30 » THE MAGIC FLUTE
A family performance of Mozart’s fairytale opera in two
acts, which means that tickets for under-18s cost just
THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE €10.Q€22-95.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN 05.01, 12.01 19:30 » TOSCA
Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, Puccini’s opera in three acts, based on the play by Victorien
come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the Sardou. Liudmyla Monastyrska is Tosca.Q€29-128.
little black box’s stage.QF‑5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, 06.01 19:30, 14.01 18:00 » NABUCCO
MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@ Zeljko Lucic is Verdi’s Nabucco. Opera in four parts.
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18. Q€29-95.
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB 20.01, 24.01, 27.01 19:30 » CARMEN
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has Clementine Margaine is Carmen in Bizet’s masterpiece.
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights Q€29-170.
every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the 26.01 19:00 » COSI FAN TUTTE
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth Nicholas Milton conducts Robert Borgmann’s staging
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become of Mozart’s finest opera.Q€29-95.
a Berliner in one hour”.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 184, 28.01 18:00 » SALOME
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 Richard Strauss’ musical drama in one act. Sung in
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. German with English surtitles.Q€29-95.
Shows Tue-Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 13
Culture & Events
QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU “Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, and
there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Friedrichstadtpalast
theatre basement. Most are in German, but look out for
special guests and the regular English-language “Strictly
Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like nachos and hot
dogs are available.QF‑3, Friedrichstr. 107, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 09 69, www.
quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. Shows Thu-Sun.

What’s On
EXHIBITIONS
29.09 - 07.01 » ED ATKINS: OLD FOOD
A gigantic baby, a foppish boy and a drowned man weep,
drool and eat grotesque sandwiches of shit, corpses,
flags and masks, failing to learn anything. A nameless
crowd careens down a hole, forever – or forms letters in
Der Wirt vom Schloßberg, Wenzel Bartosch, Bruex, um 1906
choreographed formation. A spartan, looping piano piece
 © Wenzel-Hablik-Stiftung, Itzehoe
by Jürg Frey is performed in a concrete cell, a hermit’s cot
UNTIL 14.01 » WENZEL HABLIK: and a bucolic garden in midsummer. Reflexive information
EXPRESSIONIST UTOPIAS panels by “Contemporary Art Writing Daily” essay a barbaric
Utopian architectural designs, expressionist interiors, real world entirely absent from the exhibition. Credits roll
fantastic worlds of colour – all of this is only a fraction of to denote an ending that never begins, and social media
the work of Wenzel Hablik (1881-1934), who dedicated corporations sponsor everything, seemingly unbidden.
himself to a synthesis of the arts as a universal artist. Ed Atkins is one of the most distinctive representatives of a
Hablik is considered one of the most important generation of artists explicitly responding to digital media’s ever-
representatives of the German expressionist avant- increasing ubiquity; Atkins creates worlds of crazed artificiality
garde in architecture and design. Even if the paths of and desperate realism. His computer-generated videos feature
modern art seem extensively researched his work still shabby, lonely protagonists with disarming and marked fidelity.
offers up surprises. The focus of the exhibition in Berlin is His animations demonstrate their digital constitution – their
comprised of his architectural visions and his colourful near-total artifice – even as they simultaneously strive for a
1923 masterpiece of spatial concept as reconstruction. disturbing level of lifelikeness. Atkins’ works get under the
These are complemented by the presentation of viewer’s skin, rendering a queasy corruption of substance, both
paintings and designs, as it is in combination that material and concept – just as the idea of “old food” raises a
the basic idea of the synthesis of the arts as pursued suspicion of use squandered, of goodness spoiled.
by Hablik first becomes comprehensible. This is the For his exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau, Atkins has
first extensive solo exhibition of his work in Berlin. created a new series of works that build upon the allegorical
QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, possibilities of his particular brand of video making, shifting the
Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 aesthetic into ever more precarious areas of desire, historicity,
60, €11/€9, www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00- melancholia and stupidity. Atkins is known for a series of video
19:00. Closed Tue. installations peopled by CGI surrogates, animated by motion
capture performances and voiced by the artist himself. In his
more recent work, the artist has expanded his exploration of
the medium, tempering affecting autobiographical figuration
with broader issues arising as a consequence of the form’s
exponential preponderance. Where previously death was
the precondition of love and the logical end point to the
wants of representation, “Old Food” presents a system that’s
at once less morbid and far less romantic. The world of “Old
Food” is always-already lost, persisting regardless, with no
mortal redemption in sight. Like McDonald’s hamburgers,
“Old Food” never rots, never moulders – it simply persists, a
world of melancholy where what was lost remains outside
the possibility of ever being understood, let alone retrieved.
These new computer-generated video works are installed
Design for a Ballroom © Wenzel Hablik Foundation, Itzehoe alongside a vast display of the Deutsche Oper Berlin’s
costume archive, presented as objet trouvé in the manner
14 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
in which they are stored. Part perverse mise-en-scène, part
practical acoustic treatment, the costumes invite a reading 1917. REVOLUTION
of the videos as aspirationally operatic and as compromised
historical dream – both in their failure to sufficiently address 18.10 - 15.04 » 1917. REVOLUTION
their contemporary moment, and their presumed locale, The year 2017 is the
from 11th century Scotland to ancient Egypt to Berlin, and 100th anniversary of the
the world, today. Just as the costumes are displayed in a Russian Revolution. The
manner to subvert their role as instruments of immersive revolutionary events and
storytelling, Atkins’ videos constantly undo both their realism the civil war, lasting in
and their elaborate technology. The effect, ironically enough, Russia until 1922, led to
is one of genuine imminence.QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, a fundamental, systemic
Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer change that influenced
Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €11/7. Free for the under-16s., the entire 20th century.
www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed Tue. In mentality and cultural
history, the revolution at
09.12 - 04.03 » JEWS, CHRISTIANS first brought about an
& MUSLIMS awakening in all areas of
 © dhm.de society. It led to new forms
Today’s scientific world rests upon the shoulders of the
Jewish, Christian and Muslim scholars who translated of economy, education and culture, fostered national,
ancient scriptures in the Middle Ages; first in the Middle political and social freedom movements, inspired artists
East into Arabic, and then in Europe – starting in southern and people working in all areas of culture far beyond
Italy and Spain – from Arabic into Latin. The significance the borders of Russia, and challenged the traditional
of this transfer of knowledge cannot be overstated, even value systems of the old European societies. Parallel to
if it wasn’t the only strand of transmission. The arrival of these aspects from the very beginning were political
Aristotle’s writings in medieval Europe, for example, was counter-movements, terror and brutal measures of
possible largely thanks to this translation activity. suppression, which finally brought the revolution to
an end. This development was a continuation of the
violence experienced in the First World War and marked
BERLIN IN BOOKS: the people in the region for several generations. Today
these aspects still play a role. Although the polarisation
THE WILD 1980S of the world first came about as a result of the Second
World War, the Russian Revolution and the founding of
Twenty-year-old artist and the Soviet Union in 1922 paved the way for this future
photographer Christian development. The upheavals in Europe’s largest country
Schulz moved from Frankfurt led to a new political system which stood in sharp
to West Berlin in 1981, just in contrast to the parliamentary-democratic developments
time to capture the city’s most in other European states. This was the point of departure
legendary decade. Thousands for a dispute about the different political models in
of other artists, punks and Europe that raged throughout the 1920s and 1930s.
assorted drop-outs fled stuffy The exhibition at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
West German and made explores the complex revolutionary events in Russia
their way to this heavily subsidised, walled-in beacon and their many-layered consequences for Europe and
of freedom on the very frontier of capitalism. This was considers the question of what reactions and counter-
the age of house squatting, when dozens of crumbling reactions the political and social upheaval triggered in
apartment buildings across Kreuzberg were decorated selected European and non-European countries. With
with insults to the police and reasonably defended the help of various examples, the exhibition also hopes
against the city’s bulldozers. The 1980s was peak punk, to widen the perspective on aspects of the events from
with famed bands drifting in and out of the city, soaking 100 years ago that are still relevant to the present day
up the scene. Everything was political, with world affairs and thus to contribute to a greater understanding of
taking centre stage in local events. Schulz’ fascinating current conflicts.
collection of 125 crisp black and white photos (German On both October 28th and November 7th entrance
foreword and captions) shows how this half of the to the exhibition is free. There are guided tours in
city lived, with street scenes, party pictures, ordinary English at 14:00 on Tuesdays and 12:00 on Sundays.
Berliners, gay pride parades, riots, Tirkish immigrants Additional English guided tours take place at 16:00 on
and of course the Wall and how it all ended. October 31st, and at 12:00 on November 7th.QF‑3,
“Die wilden Achtziger - Photos from West Berlin” Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden
by Christian Schulz, (Lehmstedt 2016, ISBN 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40,
9783957970411) is for sale for €24,90 at Dussmann www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.
and other major bookshops.

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 15


Culture & Events
The “House of Wisdom” was founded in Baghdad in the 9th
CRAVING FOR NEW century and became the site of much translation effort:
PICTURES Persian, Aramaic, Syrian, Hebrew, Indian (Sanskrit) and Latin
manuscripts were translated into Arabic there by Jewish,
Christian and Sabaean scholars. The polymath al-Khwarizmi
(780–850) taught here, too and we owe him for a term that
is very much relevant today: that of the algorithm, derived
from a malapropism of his name.
Developed by the Austrian National Library, the exhibition
is dedicated to this phenomenal period of the meeting of
cultures. Four great writing cultures are presented: Hebrew,
Greek, Arabic and Latin. While religiously-motivated
questions prevented the acceptance of cross-cultural
knowledge, they also often provided the initial impetus for
scientific research.
Serving as a starting point throughout the Middle Ages
was the cultural heritage from Antiquity: Greek and Roman
“Happy New Year!” – Supplement to the magazine knowledge. Transmitted via Byzantium, but above all through
“Kladderadatsch” © Julius Klinger, 1905 the early translations by Arabic scholars, it left its mark on the
entire Middle Ages. The exhibition strikingly shows how, after
29.09 - 08.04 » CRAVING FOR NEW translation into the respective language and knowledge
PICTURES culture, the comments and excerpts from original works
People have always had a great thirst for sensational served to initiate a creative process of appropriation.QF‑4,
news, political caricatures and humorous articles. When Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg,
the term ‘newe Zeittung’ (new tidings) first came about in MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €10/7. Free
the 16th century, it originally referred to an item of news for under-16s., www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00-
or information that could also be communicated by word 19:00. Closed Tue.
of mouth. It was only when broadsheets were printed in
the middle of the century that the term corresponded
to our current print media – whereby publications with
LIVE MUSIC
pictures were always the most popular ones. 02.12 20:00 » MICHAEL PATRICK KELLY
Irish-American singer, musician and compose, best-
The exhibition on the early history of journalism known as one of the Kelly Family.QF‑3, Admiralspalast,
presents three different business models for the Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
production of broadsheets, which hardly changed in +49 30 47 99 74 99, €149.
the time between the 16th and early 20th centuries. The
stories offered the sensational press – such as pictures 02.12 20:00 » 2CELLOS
of natural disasters or the latest news from aristocratic Croatian-Slovenian cellist duo, consisting of classically
circles – were aimed at a wide audience. Biting satirical trained Luka Šulić and Stjepan Hauser. Signed to Sony
pictures, on the other hand, such as those employed in Masterworks since 2011, they have released four albums
the struggle for the ‘true’ faith or against censorship and and play instrumental arrangements of well-known
oppression, were directed towards a readership with pop and rock songs as well as classical and film music.
special political interests. And finally customers who Famous for covering modern songs with a unique classical
delighted in instructive or humorous entertainment twist.QI‑4, Mercedes-Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1,
often bought such publications for their offspring. Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30
From a present-day perspective, there are striking 20 60 70 88 99, €52.15-69.40.
parallels with the current tabloid press, the constant
ideological clash of images in the media and the more 09.12 20:00 » BAROCK CHRISTMAS GALA
demanding articles in the arts and features sections. Seasonal music.QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-
von-Karajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer
The exhibition shows a selection of 180 original Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 89 99, €42.64-46.
illustrated news sheets from the huge collections of
the Deutsches Historisches Museum, supplemented 15.12 19:30 » BEYOND THE BLACK
by entire picture sequences that can be viewed at German symphonic metal/power metal band formed in
the media stations.QF‑3, Deutsches Historisches 2014 in Mannheim. Their debut album Songs of Love and
Museum, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Death became popular immediately after the release, and
Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, Audio guides €3, www. entered the German and Austrian national music charts.
dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00. QH‑4, SO36, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU
Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, €39.
16 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
ERLEBNIS EUROPA

© Bernhard Ludewig

01.12 - 31.01 » EUROPA EXPERIENCE


A whole new way to experience Europe is what
you can expect at this permanent exhibition in the
European House Berlin. Set up at the initiative of
the European Parliament in cooperation with the
European Commission, Europa Experience gives you
the possibility to find out more about European politics
and above all how you can make a difference. And that
in 24 European languages!

Take a seat in the 360° cinema and experience a


plenary session of the European Parliament. Or take
part in a simulation game where you directly slip into
the role of a Member of the European Parliament or a
Commissioner of the European Union.

You can also send greetings from Europe: send your


family and friends a personal photo from Europa
Experience.QF‑3, European House Berlin, Unter
den Linden 78, MU/S Brandenburger Tor, www.
erlebnis-europa.eu. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
free.

© Michael Jungblut

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 17


Culture & Events
16.12 20:00 » BEETHOVEN-ZYKLUS
CINEMAS QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-
Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often 25 48 89 99, €37.05-44.90.
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled 19.12 21:00 » STUFF.
films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU A 5-headed instrumental cyclops that takes you through a
(original version with German/English subtitles) and journey of mashed up grooves and eclectic sounds.QI‑3/4,
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version. Berghain, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS
ARSENAL Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, €16.10.
A little art house cinema screening international films
in the basement of the Sony Center.QE‑4, Potsdamer 26.12 16:00 » BERÜHMTE FILMMUSIK DER
Straße 2, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 WELT
26 95 51 00, www.arsenal-berlin.de. The Berlin Philharmonic perform orchestral versions of
some of the world’s best-loved film soundtracks.QE‑4,
BABYLON MITTE Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1,
A 1920s filmhouse with a great, varied programme, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 89
but beware of dubbed films. The building itself is a 99, €37.05-44.90.
fine example of New Objectivity. Ocassionaly there are
screenings of silent films, accompanied by the 1929 29.12 22:00 » FUNK DELICIOUS
organ.QG‑2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, Good live band who;ve got the funk, baby.QC‑4,
MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, Quasimodo, Kantstraße 12a, Charlottenburg, MS/U
www.babylonberlin.de. Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 80 45 60, €17.20.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL 05.01 22:00 » DEFUNKT
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries New York-based punk, funk and jazz outfit.QC‑4,
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX Quasimodo, Kantstraße 12a, Charlottenburg, MS/U
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 80 45 60, €22.70.
cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
ROCKY HORROR SHOW
www.cinestar.de.
HACKESCHE HÖFE
Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.QG‑2,
Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org.
KINO IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI
The multi-screen cinema in the beautiful KulturBrauerei
complex screens films in original language every
Monday.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, www.cinestar.de.

SPUTNIK © Jens Hauer


Berlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie films, 23.–26.01 20:00, 27.01 15:00 & 20:00,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In 28.01 14:00, 30. & 31.01 20:00 » ROCKY
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a HORROR PICTURE SHOW
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s It’s astounding. Time is fleeting. Madness takes its toll.
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the Yes, Richard O’Brien’s brilliant Rocky Horror Picture
furniture.QG‑5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Show is back in Berlin, part of a major European tour.
Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik- As mad and essential as it was when it first appeared
kino.com. Tickets €5-6,5. in 1975, we have no idea if turning up in drag is the
done thing in these parts or not. Bring your stilettos
just in case. Performed in English, there are matinees
on Saturday and Sunday.QF‑3, Admiralspalast,
Full contents online: Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße,
berlin.inyourpocket.com tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.rocky-horror-show.de.

18 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
Howard Panter for Rocky Horror Company Limited and Ralf Kokemüller for BB Promotion GmbH present

BAD, BIZARRE AND BLOODY BRILLIANT!

*0,14 €/Min. aus dem Festnetz, Mobilfunk max. 0,42 €/Min.

23.01. - 10.02.18
ADMIRALSPALAST BERLIN
TICKETS: 030 - 479 974 28 01805 - 2001*
www.rocky-horror-show.de www.eintrittskarten.de

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 19


Culture & Events
05.01 20:00 » ROCK LEGENDEN
SAYONARA TOKYO A concert which brings together three of Germany’s biggest
rock bands: Puhdys, Karat and City.QI‑4, Mercedes-
Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, €139-199.

08.01 20:00 » FALL OUT BOY


American rock band.QI‑5, Lido, Cuvrystrasse 7, MU
Schlesisches Tor, Sold Out.

08.01 20:00 » PIANO BATTLE - THE


ORIGINAL ANDREAS KERN VS. PAUL CIBIS
12.07 - 18.02 » SAYONARA TOKYO The brainchild of internationally accomplished pianists
The most lavish production ever staged in the history Andreas Kern and Paul Cibis, Piano Battle sees the duo go
of the Wintergaten, a kaleidoscopic mix of acrobatics, head-to-head on stage.Q€19.90-29.90.
theatre, music, dance and song. And all in the most
colourful setting possible. It’s a tale of three congenial 13.01 22:00 » HAMBURG BLUES BAND
female friends who set out for Tokyo and explore the Formed back in the 1980s, these guys are one of the
land of the rising sun, of which they thought they knew best German blues bands still doing the rounds.QC‑4,
already everything. On their turbulent journey through Quasimodo, Kantstraße 12a, Charlottenburg, MS/U
time through the history, culture and music of Japan, Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 80 45 60, €22.70.
they discover a different, exotic and unknown face of
this millenniums-old culture. During their adventures 17.01, 19.01 19:30 » DEPECHE MODE
in the world of manga they dance through decades of Still one of the biggest draws in the world, Depeche
Japanese-German pop history and let themselves be Mode play two nights at the Mercedes-Benz arena.QI‑4,
enchanted by the traditional and modern culture of Mercedes-Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain,
Nippon. MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99,
€189-339.

18.01 19:30 » FALLING IN REVERSE


American rock band based in Las Vegas.Q€29.50.

19.01 20:00 » AXEL ZWINGENBERGER


German blues and boogie-woogie pianist.QE‑4, Berliner
Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 89 99, €17-39.

As with all shows at the Wintergarten, you can wine 21.01 19:00 » DÚLAMÁN - VOICE OF THE CELTS
and dine as you watch the performance. Shows Irish folk songs.QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße
at 20:00 daily (except Mon, Tue), 18:00 Sun.QE‑4, 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74
Wintergarten Variété, Potsdamer Straße 96, 99, €44.05-61.87.
Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84
33, €25-59, www.wintergarten-berlin.de/en/show/ 22.01 20:00 » SPECTRUM
sayonara-tokyo. Closed Mon, Tue. Australian progressive rock band formed back in 1969.
QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-
Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
25 48 89 99, €23-50.50.

29.01 19:00 » A-HA


Norwegian pop superstars of the 1980s and 1990s, still
selling out the biggest arenas in Europe.QI‑4, Mercedes-
Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, Sold Out.

Get the In Your Pocket


City Essentials App

20 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Neukölln

Christmas Market on Richardplatz | © visitBerlin, Wolfgang Scholvien

So big is Berlin, so wide its expanse, that the average In 1737, King Frederick William I of Prussia allowed about
visitor sees just a tiny fraction of this amazing city. A 350 Moravian Protestants expelled from Bohemia to
collection - it has been said many times before - of settle in the area, by then called Rixdorf. They built their
small towns and villages all with their own identity as own church and houses off the village centre along
opposed to a unified metropolis, Berlin is home to many the road to Berlin, today called Richardstraße. This new
wonderful unique districts which often go unexplored Bohemian village (Böhmisch Rixdorf ) was granted its own
by the uninitiated. Every now and then, however, one of constitution in 1797.
these inner-city ortsteil (as they are known in German)
gets a chance to shine. Hard as it is to imagine now but In the course of industrialization in the 19th century a
Kreuzberg - now as hip and trendy and on-the-beaten- network of new streets was laid out in the Hobrecht-Plan
track as they come - was once given a wide berth by in an area that came to be known architecturally as the
visitors to Berlin. The new Kreuzberg, and the latest Wilhelmine Ring. In 1863 a Turkish cemetery was created
ortsteil locals really don’t want you to find out about is north of Rixdorf, the successor of a smaller burial ground in
Neukölln, south of the city centre, particularly the area Kreuzberg established in 1798 for the Turkish members of
bordered by Karl Marx Strasse, Flughafenstrasse and the Prussian Army. It contains the remains of the Ottoman
Hermanstrasse. Given a new lease of life in recent years ambassador Giritli Ali Aziz Efendi, the exiled Grand Vizier
by the same artists, students and migrants who once Mehmed Talat and Bahattin Şakir. No wonder Neukölln was
made Kreuzberg famous and diverse (but have now one of the first districts of Berlin Turks headed for when
been forced out by fiercely climbing rents), Neukolln so many settled in the city in the 1960s.
resembles the Kreuzberg of a few years ago that Berliners
have given it the nickname Kreuzkolln. When both parts of the village were reunited in 1874, the
place had a population of 8,000, and soon became the largest
Neukolln is first mentioned in 1360, as a ‘village village in Prussia. Shortly afterwards it received the status of
south-east of Berlin’, centered around the present- independent city and became notorious for its taverns and
day Richardplatz. Back then it was called Richardsdorf amusement sites. In 1912, in an early attempt at rebranding,
and owned by the Order of St. John; which explains the local authorities tried to clean up its reputation by adopting
why the coat of arms of the current district bears the the current name, derived from the Cölln district of medieval
Maltese cross. Legend has it that the Knights Templar Berlin - an attempt that ultimately failed. Even after being
themselves built a fortress here, where the district meets incorporated into Greater Berlin in 1920 Neukölln remained
neighbouring Tempelhof (from whence the name, infamous for its decadence: the most decadent part of what at
Tempelhof ). the time was perhaps the most decadent city in Europe.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 21
Neukölln

Tempelhofer Freiheit © inyourpocket.de

Part of the American sector of West Berlin from 1945-1990,


in the late 1960s the enormous Gropiusstadt was built in the ITALIAN
south of Neukolln. Dubbed rather unkindly a Trabantenstadt CALIGARI
by critics this huge utilitarian housing estate, designed by A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez
Bauhaus architect Walter Gropius, does look rather more neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta,
East Berlin than West. Rents here are relatively cheap soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper
however, and as such is home to many migrants: indeed, Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things
taken as a whole, of all Berlin’s districts modern Neukölln could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49
has the largest immigrant population in Berlin (at around 40 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00
per cent) and is a lively, exciting melting pot of multicultural - 23:00.
diversity. So much so in fact that Neukölln is one of the
Council of Europe’s pilot intercultural cities. You will see the
fact reflected in the area’s street food. Once known as Little CAFÉS
Istanbul there are more kebab shops per square metre than LUX
anywhere else in Berlin. You can also find plenty of places Named after the sunlight that streams in and illuminates
to smoke some exotic tobacco from a narghila. All this the wooden furniture on good days, Lux is quiet and
alongside expensive restaurants, high-end cafes and artists relaxed and serves excellent coffee from Kreuzberg’s Kiez
studios: Neukölln is the new centre of creative Berlin. Get Rösterei, homemade waffles and cake. Combine your visit
there now before everyone moves on again. with a walk across the Tempelhofer Feld park, or drop by
Getting there: Take the U-bahn to Rathaus Neukölln, on Saturdays to catch the Schillermarkt, right outside.
found in the heart of the main commercial area of Neukölln. QHerrfurthstrasse 9, Neukölln, MU1 Boddinstrasse,
tel. 0173 7968442, www.cafelux.berlin. Open 08:30 -
19:30.
AMERICAN
CABSLAM
Cabslam? Yep, it’s short for California Breakfast Slam. So BARS
you can guess what’s on the menu before you even show CODA DESSERT BAR
up. Fine, fresh, California dining in a bright and breezy The kind of place Neukolln has recently become known for,
contemporary setting (recently renovated and looking except here they have done it better than ever. A dessert
better than ever). ALongside classic staples such as bar? Yep, it is exactly what it says: a bar serving avant-garde,
amazing burgers topped with New York pickles you can experimental desserts created by a top team of chefs. To get
also grab mac and cheese, fish tacos with spicy coleslaw, as the best out of the place, go for the tasting menu, which
well as surf and turf steak with Cajun shrimp. At weekend offers six amazing taste sensations for €65. Pair it with six
and on public holidays the badass brunch, as they call it, is sepcially mixed drinks for an extra €33.QFriedelstrasse 47,
a treat.QInnstrasse 47, MU Rathaus Neukolln, tel. 030 Neukolln, MU Hermannplatz, tel. (+49) 30 914 963 96,
686 9624, www.cabslam.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, www.coda-berlin.com. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. P­B­S­W
22 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Neukölln
DAS GIFT
Possibly the most quintessential Neukolln bar around. Artsy, TEMPELHOF AIRPORT
hip, achingly trendy and yet perfectly welcoming to just
about everyone, you will notice a Scottish theme: the owner On Neukölln’s western borders is one of the most iconic
is a Scot. Expect some food and drink to remind you of the places in all of Germany: the incomparable Tempelhof
Highlands, not the least of which is an almost unmatched Airport. Made famous by the Berlin Airlift of 1948-49
selection of whiskies. Service is fabulous, and though prices the last flight took off from the airport in 2008. Saved
are far from cheap, the crowd that thrings here loves the from property developers (for the time being), since
place, as do we.QDonaustrasse 119, dasgift.tumblr.com. 2010 Tempelhof’s grounds and runways have been
Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. P­B­S­W open to the public as a park, and there are guided tours
of its terminal building.

MUSEUMS TEMPELHOF AIRPORT TERMINAL


It is not an exaggeration to call the airport one of
SCHLOSS BRITZ the most remarkable buildings in Europe. Architect
The Schloss Britz (Britz Castle) is the former manor-house of Norman Foster has indeed gone as far as to call it ‘The
the historical country estate and village Britz, now a district Mother of All Airports,’ which in many ways it is. Way
of Berlin-Neukolln. Frederick I of Prussia gave the estate to ahead of its time, Tempelhof served as something of a
his minister Samuel von Chwalkowski at the end of the blueprint for a glut of airports built around the world
Thirty Years War, and it was von Chwalkowski who had when international travel first became accessible to
the schloss built. It was completed in 1706. The building, ordinary people in the 1950s.
along with the grounds, have been national monuments Guided tours of the now empty, timewarp terminal
since 1971, and today serve as the headquarters of the building offer a unique insight into this majestic
Kulturstiftung Schloss Britz and includes a museum construction which, while often called ‘the Nazi airport’
showcasing the splendid interiors of the Gründerzeit era. did not in fact open until after the end of World War II.
The impeccable grounds include an old farmyard complete Neither was it designed by Albert Speer: it is the work of
with stables. Both the building and grounds are well worth a Bavarian architect, Ernst Sagebiel. The airport first came
a visit, not least given how the entrance prices are a bargain. to international prominence as a symbol of the Cold War,
QAlt-Britz 73, Neukolln, MU Parchimer Allee, tel. (+49) and of freedom, when it was the base for the mercy flights
030 609 792 30. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. €3/€2. which kept West Berlin fed during the Berlin Airlift of 1948-
49. Alas by the end of the 1960s its capacity had been
OPERA exceeded and after Tegel Airport opened in 1975, most of
Berlin’s air traffic relocated there. The last commercial flight
NEUKÖLLNER OPERA (NO) took off from Tempelhof in 2008, despite the protests of
Berlin’s alternative opera is a ground-breaking, trendsetting locals who wanted it kept open. QPlatz der Luftbrucke,
endeavour founded in 1976. Performing at first at various MU Platz der Luftbrucke, tel. +49 30 200 03 74 41,
venues around the city, the opera found a permanent home on www.thf-berlin.de/fuehrungen/english-guided-tours.
Karl-Marx-Strasse in 1988. Since its inception, the NO has been Tours in English are held every Wednesday, Friday,
staging musical theatre of various genres. The programme Saturday and Sunday at 13:30. Places can be booked
ranges from the baroque opera (such as Tom Jones) to musicals online. Adults €15, students €10, children under 14 €7.
(The Miracle of Neukölln), from operetta (Messeschlager
Gisela) to the soap operetta (The Krötzkes), from grand opera TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
(Macbeth) to revue and children’s music theatre. Very much Where else can you run for five minutes with your eyes
a key part of essential Berlin. Check the website for latest closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic
performances.QKarl-Marx-Strasse 131-133, MU Karl-Marx- and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which
Strasse, tel. 030 68 89 07 77, www.neukoellneroper.de/en. closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010.
Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers,
inline skaters and kiteboarders; the fields around them
are used by rare breeding skylarks (from April-July),
picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-flyers, gardeners
and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the
northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the
park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed
from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.
QF/G‑6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.
tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00,
April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30,
June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan
07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.
Britzer Garden © Thomas Wolter, pixabay.com

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 23


Mitte
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the
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Mitte
ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN
Restaurants & Cafés Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what
was once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple
interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such
GERMAN as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar
ALPENSTUECK is stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the Spree canal.QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and weingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€.
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing T­U­G­B­S­W
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
18:00-01:00. €€. T­U­G­B­S themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
MAXIMILIANS the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in
food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? broth) and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte,
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84,
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but 24:00. €€. T­U­N­B­S
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages.
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, @InYourPocket
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. U­G­B­S
STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG
MUTTER HOPPE Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
sides not served at other German restaurants, including and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25,
www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30- WEIHENSTEPHANER
24:00. €€. T­E­G­B The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this
is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
BACK TO SCHOOL The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3,
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
watering hole for adult students from all around the Open 11:00-01:00. €€. T­U­E­G­B
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by ZILLE-STUBE
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
27, www.gls-berlin.de. Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-
nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 25
Mitte
ZUM NUSSBAUM
FOOD WITH A VIEW What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest.
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities
with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’.
QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. G­B

ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ


Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path,
and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting
heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too
noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for
the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3,
Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49
PANORAMA CAFÉ 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:00-
The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. G­B­S
PanoramaPunkt viewing point on Potsdamer Platz is a
great place for coffee, cakes and other snacks, before
venturing on the open terrace with great views over Berlin. ASIAN
QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer JOLLY
Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt. Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and
de. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00 - 17:00. Tower S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and
admission €7,50; family ticket €17,50. modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and
Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast
SPHERE duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s
At 207 metres this is Berlin’s highest restaurant, found also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried
at the top of the TV Tower. Gently rotating it gives you meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3,
a spin around the city in 30 minutes, as you feast on Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
food which is really rather good and well worthy of the +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www.
surroundings. Soups, salads and light meals accompany restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. A­U­B­S
your city tour, with attractive daily specials often the best
choice. There’s a great breakfast menu too: a very good KAMALA
way to start the day. Reservations advised, especially at Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
lunchtime or in the evenings. There is a special Advent where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
Brunch on December 10th, and a gala New Year’s Eve placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
dinner and party on December 31st: you should reserve soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
a table in advance.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
www.tv-turm.de. Open 09:00 - 22:30. €€€. E www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B

OTITO
Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district,
Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great
prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls,
wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes
– as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger
Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www.
otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.

VAN LONG
Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities,
from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty
Thai options served in a modest space decorated with
26 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La
Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau
chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ
8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570,
www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

AUSTRIAN
BRECHT KELLER
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress
making do with East German ingredients, so though
decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery
where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125,
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly
international, as its name, concept and all the old
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced
fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25,
Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50,
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00.
€€€. T­U­G­B­S­W

BORCHARDT
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
ition
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Exhib
Views
Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 lin
of Ber
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. €€€. G­B

FACIL
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly
light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the
market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis
on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is Opening hours:
a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large Platform: 10:00-20:00
central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Café: 11:00-19:00
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 Shorter opening hours during winter
12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00
- 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­G­B­ Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de
Wh
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 27
Mitte
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and INTERNATIONAL
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. NOLA’S AM WEINBERG
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and
as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced
Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners
deep carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9,
Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66,
www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30- www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
23:00. €€€€. P­A­G hh
PATIO
LUTTER & WEGNER Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of
Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception,
sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you
on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one
to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00,
the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00.
Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00. REINHARD’S
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. A­B in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
PARIS-MOSKAU and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3,
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station - Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242
on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€.
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly T­G­B­S
positioned between new government offices and
hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been TRAUBE
serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross-
there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2,
Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
VOX +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00-
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€.
Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist T­G­B
and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between
the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and ZOLLPACKHOF
the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, Long one of the best German restaurants in the land, this
so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, Marlene- place recently reopened after the completion of a three-
Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, year renovation project, and the Zollpackhof beer garden
tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: looks better than ever. With a superb terrace offering
Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. views of the fine main building the menu boasts a wide
Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar range of first-class dishes, from homemade potato soup
Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. P­A­ with fresh marjoram and Vienna sausages to duck roasted
E­G­B with oranges. The Schmankerl menu for two is as meaty
a treat as you’ll find in all Berlin. The Sunday Brunch (from
11:30) is set to become legendary.QE‑3, Elisabeth-
Get the In Your Pocket Abegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49
30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00.
City Essentials App €€. T­U­G­B

28 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
JAPANESE
COCOLO
A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. G­B

SUSHI CIRCLE
This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing
by on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle
around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle
to whip a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße
48, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650
60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-
23:00. €.

SPANISH
YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this © visitBerlin, WolfgangScholvien
intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and
a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or
roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 -
towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49
30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€.
P­A­B Nightlife
CAFÉS BARS
BARCOMI’S DELI AUFSTURZ
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon done here are through the long drinks menu, listing
meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers.
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are
cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also reasonable and the place looks good, with changing
salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite
outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger
Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS Open from 12:00. EB

THE DIGITAL EATERY DER MAUERWINZER


Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the The ‘Vintner by the Wall’ serves around 100 wines from
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first all 13 wine regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy
café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot up by the fireplace in winter or spread out on the terrace
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of in summer to make the most of the fine wines, or get
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), some bottles to take home.QWolliner Str. 20, Mitte,
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01,
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 29
Mitte
REINGOLD
CASINO A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring,
SPIELBANK BERLIN Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF‑2,
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
a tour including game instructions.QE‑4, Marlene- Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age CLUBS
is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual. GRÜNER SALON
Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG‑2, Volksbühne,
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters Platz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a HOUSE OF WEEKEND
stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th
intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the
cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on
version.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. Probably the best
Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de, www. rooftop view in town!QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte,
eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140,
14:00. ENBW www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.

MEIN HAUS AM SEE KAFFEE BURGER


It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-the-
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning
it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG‑2, Torstraße
the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2,
Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. ROTER SALON
+49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com, This place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing
Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR


Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE

30 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.
QG‑2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte,
MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12,
www.roter-salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed
Tue, Sun.

PUBS Let‘s
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt go up!
S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for
natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and
mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs
and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single
goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold
beverages flow freely.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open
from 12:00. EGBW

Sightseeing
ATTRACTIONS
LITTLE BIG CITY
Brought to you by the makers of Madame Tussauds, The
Dungeon, Sea Life and the Legoland Discovery Centre, Little
Big City is a great new way to experience the story of Berlin
on a totally new scale, bringing you closer to history than
ever before. Located at the foot of Berlin’s iconic TV Tower,
3D, interactive miniature sets complete with amazing
special effects allow you to take a unique look at Berlin’s
most famous landmarks and breathtaking cityscapes
in a whole new way. You could be forgiven for thinking
this is a kids’ attraction: it is, for kids aged 0-99!QG‑3,
Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 180 625 71 06, www.officiallittlebigcity.com/berlin.
€12.
Towering 368m above Berlin, the
TV Tower dominates the city’s sky-
LANDMARKS
BERLINER FERNSEHTURM (BERLIN TV TOWER) line like no other building. Plan your
Now as much a symbol of Berlin as any other building, visit now and avoid the queues –
the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed
in 1969, is 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and still the book your Fast Track Ticket online.
tallest building in Germany. Its observation deck (which
also houses Berlin’s highest bar) offers predictably amazing
views of the entire city and beyond, while the Sphere
restaurant on the floor above the viewing deck comes
complete with a rotating floor. Photos point out the many,
many Berlin landmarks for you. We recommend two visits,
one by day, and one by night (it is open until midnight):
you will get two competely different perspectives. Tip:
buy your ticket online in advance to beat the queues.
The main entrance is opposite Alexanderplatz S-Bahn
train station.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, https://tv-turm.de/en/homepage/. Tel: +49 (30) 24 75 75 875
Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission up €13/ €8.50/Free for www.tv-turm.de
the under-4s.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 31
Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers NEUES MUSEUM
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
well as their cross-overs into modernity. Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
some of the artists whose works hang around this One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3,
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 -
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
ALTES MUSEUM renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

NEUE SYNAGOGE POTSDAMER PLATZ


The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye- Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip.
9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was The most popular public space and architectural attraction
the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
installation adds to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed.
Admission €3,50/3. NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The
church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire
quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in
which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one was trying
to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the
simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could afford.
The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs
and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that
face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants
that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other
rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as
the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
Deutsches Currywurst Museum Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.
32 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most PANORAMAPUNKT
people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up © Landesarchiv Berlin
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the PANORAMAPUNKT
road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, Hans Kollhoff’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free. refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also
resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden
CHURCHES crown. On the top floors there’s an exhibition about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square,
BERLINER DOM which went from world-class entertainment district
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from to Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were generation. The rooftop terrace offers great close-up
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up Wall zone and Tiergarten park. Indoors, there’s a café
to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side too. From December 17th Santa will be in residence
exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, at the Panoramapunkt, waiting for kids and their
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, parents with gifts and surprises.QE‑4, Potsdamer
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.
de. Viewing platform open 10:00-18:00, cafe
DEUTSCHER DOM open 11:00-19:00. Admission €7.50; family ticket
The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed €17.50.
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an FRANZÖSISCHER DOM
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. French only), dedicated to the thousands of French
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century.
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40
metres above street level, with great views all around.
QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
Full contents online: +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open
berlin.inyourpocket.com 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon.
Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 33
Mitte
which is not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-Berliner-
Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26
39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.
stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-
20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.

MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
Wall Panorama QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
MEMORIALS Admission €5/3,50.
FÜHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own
Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached found at train stations and street corners across the city.
by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre- culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories
fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße
was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47,
in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Admission €11/8,50.
Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive
OF EUROPE German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germany’s
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent
serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language
The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den
field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30
creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4.
The memorial has an undergound information centre Under 18 free.

asisi Panorama Berlin Tickets and Service


Friedrichstraße 205 +49(0)341.35 55 34 0
10117 Berlin service@die-mauer.de
Checkpoint Charlie

Free Guided Tours Opening hours


Thursdays 11.30 a.m. daily from 10 a.m.
in English – for Berlin to 6 p.m.
discoverers

Getting there facebook.com/


U6 Kochstraße asisi.berlin
U2 Stadtmitte www.die-mauer.de
M29 Kochstraße die_mauer_panorama

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN


asisi.de | die-mauer.de In cooperation with

34 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark
for several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer
Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49
30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, MeMu Berlin © Tobias Tanzyna
www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-
19:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor KUNSTHALLE
exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free. The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains
works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly
GEMÄLDEGALERIE changing temporary exhibitions show selected works
Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works in this space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard
spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters Gluckman. The annual ‘artist of the year’ exhibition focuses
include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians on one young artist. There’s a nice ArtCafé and shop
are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch too. There are free tours every day, several on Monday
rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s between 11:00-19:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 13-15,
largest Rembrandt collection.QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 09 30,
8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com. Open 10:00 -
42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. 20:00. Admission €4/3, Monday & under 18 free. Free
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. guided tours at 18:00.
Admission €8/€4.
MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of
Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a the personalities that gave it glamour and style came
converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre,
curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out
animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo
bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses
Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting
collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk- films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum
berlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - ends with special effects and science fiction.QE‑4,
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U
Admission €10/5. Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-
kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.
The Menschen Museum, the world’s first museum
dedicated to the human body, invites the visitor to MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE
embark on a journey through life and inspires visitors All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
to contemplate what makes us human. The exhibition illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
shows us what connects us, what keeps us upright and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
in motion, what makes us laugh and what makes us towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s
love. It gives the visitor insights into the highly complex, the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
yet fragile and vulnerable structures of the human body. the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
You will find it at the base of the Fernsehturm tower. Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
S-Bahn 5, 7, 75, 9 and U-Bahn 2, 5, 8 will get you here, as Bobby from the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43,
well as buses TXL, 100, 200.QG‑3, Panoramastrasse 1a Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
(Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, 91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-
www.memu.berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission berlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
€14/12. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 35


Mitte
the whole day here.QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 90, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 25 11 11, www.
kulturkaufhaus.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.
Closed Sun.

GUDRUN SJÖDÉN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two
floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de.
Wall Panorama © asisi Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SAMMLUNG BOROS (BOROS COLLECTION) RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD


A showpiece M1200-type bunker from 1941, previously The flagship store of Germany’s famous Ritter Sport
used for fruit storage and as an infamous techno and chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
fetish club, is now the private art gallery of advertising try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
executive Christian Boros and his wife, who live in the restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
penthouse bungalow on top. It’s full of wonderful own chocolate bar.QFranzösische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
modern art which can be viewed on excellent English- 30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
language guided tours (booked well in advance).QF‑3, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Reinhardstraße 20, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.

Hotels
+49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. Open
Thurs 15:00-20:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission
€12/6.

WALL PANORAMA OVER €200


The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an GRAND HYATT
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of Part of the mini-city at Potsdamer Platz, this might just
the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in be the coolest hotel in Berlin, with great architecture and
the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his furniture arranged all Feng Shui. Perks in the large rooms
personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality include books and fruit.QE‑4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2,
of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 12 34,
sides of the divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30 www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. 342  rooms (342  singles
at no extra cost.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. €220 - 235, 342 doubles €265 - 280, 14 triples €385 - 400,
+49 34 13 55 53 40, www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, 10 suites €505 - 885, 2 presidential suites €2520 - 3335).
Mid-July to mid-Sept 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. P­H­A­R­U­F­L­E­G­K­D­C hhhhh
Admission €10/8.
€75-150
Shopping HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
ALEXA CENTRE furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and
massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF‑2,
exhibition.QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, 284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de.
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-
19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00. PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s third-
DUSSMANN largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
Dussmann is the biggest and unquestionably best renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing
bookstore in Berlin, set over five amazing levels with an board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
excellent, separate section for English-language books, QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
and a huge travel section. Besides books there is music, tel. +49 30 238 90, www.parkinn-berlin.com.
film and gifts, a wonderful stationers and an elegant cafe 1012  rooms (318  singles €89  - 125, 671  doubles €89  -
and restaurant. The place looks fantastic - the vertical 125, 23 suites €130 - 185) Breakfast extra. P­O­A­R­
garden in a sight in itself - and you could end up spending F­G­K­D hhhh
36 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Charlottenburg & the West
Restaurants & Cafés SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
GERMAN pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote
APRIL Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 -
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

KNESE ZILLEMARKT
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic The kind of quintessential Berlin venue you just have
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, to come and eat when visiting the German capital.
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and Serving - in their own idiom - solid Berlin dishes (as well
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable as much else, including a decent selection of fish and
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and seafood) this place just oozes charm and atmosphere.
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some Their homebrewed Zillebrau beer is fantastic and at
good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, €3.80 for half a litre it’s one of the top value pints in the
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, city.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.
de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T­B
RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and AMERICAN
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes HARD ROCK CAFE
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly
QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos,
Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut
Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€. butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues,
allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224,
RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88
A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). P­A­E­G­B
excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small
‘Jägerstübchen’ room and a large 80-seat Biergarten that’s
delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German ASIAN
and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products. SUKSAN
Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan
the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB‑3, Schlossstr. is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4,
Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de,
www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose
liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion
Renger-Patzsch of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent,
38 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak
too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out.
QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.

INTERNATIONAL
Zillemarkt
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
VGB Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-
restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
SCHNITZELEI €€€. UGB
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei
is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up.
No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the Full contents online:
genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating
a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different berlin.inyourpocket.com
variations, though you may also want to try the German
tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg,
JJ
MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78,
www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

Over 100 years of


FINE DINING comfort and quality
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Traditional German cuisine
Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands
who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a
point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches
of France and the Far East, and turbot with caviar
or prawn is often on the menu.QD‑4, Budapester
Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h

GROSZ
A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived
in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century
ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture,
the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special
or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm Tel. 030-881 70 40
193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - www.zillemarkt.de
23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 39
Charlottenburg & the West
DRESSLER
SUKSAN A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for 39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-
offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB
combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dis- DUKE
hes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo Creative international crossover meals are served in the
roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles. 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00,
www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-
€€€€.

EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space
only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian
dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-
catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €.
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin NGS

ITALIAN
THAI RESTAURANT LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
& COCKTAIL LOUNGE guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
ORIGINA delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
L
THAI FOO
the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2,
D Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80
69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. T­N­G­B­S

ZWÖLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2,

SUKSAN
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfürstenstrasse JAPANESE
U - Wittenbergplatz SACHIKO SUSHI
www.suksan.de An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in
town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling
TEL 030.21 01 86 73 the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town.
Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with
40 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with CAFE KALWIL
Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
railway arches.QC‑3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality
16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 -
SPANISH 22:00. €€. ABW
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS
www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€.
B WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE?
Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a
relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack,
CAFÉS juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69,
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant
and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
Nightlife
well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, BARS
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, ALT BERLINER BIERSALON
www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy corners
09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a large
screen. The bar serves well-priced German and international
CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome -
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus yourself in
polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have here.QC‑4, Kurfüstendamm 225, Charlottenburg, MU
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 884 39 90, www.alt-berliner-
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and biersalon.de. Open 24hrs. €€. T­U­E­G­B­S­W
critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße GREEN DOOR
23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de, undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
GB green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and
up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße
50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215
25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00.

MOMMSEN-ECK
With traditional charm in a street north of the Ku’damm,
Mommsen-Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub
and bistro boasting over a hundred types of best-quality
beer, lovingly preserved and served either inside or on the
spacious terrasse. Full menu, including Sunday brunch.
QB‑4, Mommsenstraße 45, Charlottenburg, MS
Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 324 25 80, www.mommsen-
Suksan eck.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. T­B
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 41
Charlottenburg & the West
ZWIEBELFISCH striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de,
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00
the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables 16:00. Admission €7/5.
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s
12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in
1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade
HEFNER and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini largest collection of 18th century French painting outside
cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner- Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus
berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3,
Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-
Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de.
PUBS Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed.
THE HARP New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8,
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports CHURCHES
events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark
occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s land-
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp- mark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe
pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared
from 10:00. €-€€. EBW on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a
remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our
UNION JACK people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues con-
whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues tributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained
Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many
crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlotten-
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack- burg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23,
berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.
19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
LANDMARKS (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
OLYMPIC STADIUM Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most Closed Wed. Admission free.
42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
BRÖHAN MUSEUM
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft
design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so
much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and
indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection
(spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and
furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens
and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.QB‑3,
Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-Charlotte-
Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum.
de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4.

C/O BERLIN
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple
exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned
photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop
either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60,
www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5.

MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST


Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Q­D‑4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, M­U Wittenbergplatz,
Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70
has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740). P­H­U­F­
Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition G­K­D­C­W­
has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to
Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts. The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3. a swank corner of Ku’damm.Q­C‑4, Kurfürstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, M­U Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
PARKS AND GARDENS kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326,
TIERGARTEN 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and extra. P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­h­h­h­h­h­
waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s
still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, PALACE
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end. large.Q­D‑4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg,
QC/D/E‑3/4. M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@
palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200
Hotels - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150).
P­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C­h­h­h­h­h­
OVER €200 SAVOY BERLIN
DAS STUE Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once
The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop
of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and near the clubby Times Bar.Q­C‑4, Fasanenstraße 9-10,
many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes Charlottenburg, M­S/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30
peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread 31 10 30, info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com.
across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful 125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232,
wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). A­R­F­K­
in the spa area, and there’s the first-class Cinco restaurant. D­h­h­h­h­
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 43
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POCKET WALK: FRIEDRICHSHAIN


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