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1. List down the procedure in performing arc welding and then the safety
precautions needed.
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Note:
As a rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld
zone. Then go to a lighter shade which gives sufficient view of the weld
zone without going below the minimum
1) Check your electrode diameter and weld current settings, e.g. 2.5-
3.2mm, 80-110A. Ensure electrode is connected to +ve, weld object to
-ve.
2) Ensure other people are protected from flashes by closing the curtain
to the welding bay or by erecting screens.
3) Ensure the electrode holder has no electrode in it before turning on the
welding machine.
Operation procedure:
1) Keep hands clear of work piece and away from electrode and ensure
operator does not wrap electrode leads around themselves.
2) Wear leather / insulated gloves. Ensure power is turned off (from
wall socket) before inserting or removing electrodes from electrode
holder/handle. If the electrode holder (stinger) is non-insulated,
make sure you are either holding it or it is insulated from
workpiece before powering-on weld machine.
3) Ensure current is correctly set according to electrode selection.
4) Make sure your weld screen/shield/viewing mask is on before arc
ignites. Never leave the welder running unattended.
5) The arc is started by touching the electrode momentarily against the
work to complete the electrical circuit before raising the electrode to
establish the arc.
6) 'Tap starting' and 'scratch starting' are the two common methods of
starting the arc. Which one to use is a personal preference, and can be
influenced by rod type, condition and weld voltage available
7) Electrode angle, arc length, travel speed and welding motion must be
learnt with practice/certification/qualification
8) Arc welders don't have a button to start the arc. Unlike MIG welders the
rod (electrode) will become live as soon as the machine is switched on
9) The arc is started by touching/scratching the electrode momentarily
against the work to complete the electrical circuit before raising the
electrode to establish the arc. This needs to happen quickly/lightly to
avoid welding the rod to the work
10) Because the rod is live at all times it needs to be kept insulated from
the earth when not in use. A board of wood can be used used to isolate
the rod from the bench. After welding the rod is returned to the piece of
wood:
11) Clearance to maintain the arc during welding is about 1mm. Because
both the weld pool/slag height changes & electrode is consumed, try to
move the electrode holder while maintaining the correct clearance and
10-20º angle. Many experienced welders automatically adjust based
on maintaining a consistent weld crackle sound. A tiny amount of
electrode weave can also be used to maintain a desired gap/arc
12) Don't look closely at the weld while it cools - as the weld contracts tiny
hot pieces of slag can ping off and burn themselves into your eyes.
This is especially true of stainless rods.
13) Slag is lightweight and brittle so can fly a fair distance. Wear eye
protection when chipping.
Post-operation / 5s procedure:
Sources:
https://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/US/EN/literature/E205.pdf
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htm
http://www.labour.gov.hk/text_alternative/pdf/eng/welding3.pdf
http://www.weldinginfocenter.org/health/hs_11.html
2. List down the procedure in performing oxy-acetylene welding and give
Safety measures needed on doing it.
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4) Workplace conditions:
a) Ensure area is dry
b) Sufficient airflow clearance (22'x22'x22' per welder)
c) Ceiling height not less than 16'
Note:
As a rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld zone. Then go to a
lighter shade which gives sufficient view of the weld zone without going below the
minimum
1) Ensure other people are protected from flashes by closing the curtain
to the welding bay or by erecting screens.
2) Ensure the gas cylinders, tubings and ignition systems have
mechanical integrity and protection “Crack” the valve open to prevent
dirt from entering the regulator; open the cylinder valve only when
standing to one side of the cylinder, away from welding or other
sources of ignition
Operation procedure:
4) Figures 2, 3 and 4 show how to hold and move the torch. Angle the
flame toward the work with the rod coming in from the opposite
direction. Once the puddle forms, move the torch in circular or
semicircular patterns across the weld as you slowly advance the
puddle. Continue to feed the rod, but don’t force it into the work or it’ll
stick. When things start flowing correctly, you’ll know it’s right.
Post-operation / 5s procedure:
Source:
http://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/job-knowledge/health-
safety-and-accident-prevention-oxyacetylene-welding-cutting-and-
heating-027/
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
http://www.rqriley.com/welding-new.html
3. List down the procedure in soldering.
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General procedure:
f) A solder joint is made when contact points are fused with a solder joint
g) Safely de-energise and cool down soldering iron when work complete
4. What are the procedures in flaring?
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1) Cut the copper pipe to the length that you need - leave a bit
extra in case you mess up. You need to use a tube cutter for
this, a hacksaw or other method will leave a ragged edge which
won't seal right. After cutting, the tube must be reamed to the
full inside diameter leaving no inside burr (Figure 9.3). Tube that
is out of round prior to flaring should be resized back to round.
2) Place the nut from the compression fitting over the end of the
pipe before continuing. Clamp the flare form over the end of the
pipe. Make sure the pipe is in the correct hole. The pipe should
be flush with the top of the form. Generally it is easiest to
alternate tightening the two sides of the form a little bit at a time
4) The top of the pipe should be visible and should be spread out
against the side of the form. Take the reamer off, if it doesn't
look like this:
then the pipe has slipped and you need to go to step one
The final flared tube end should have a smooth, even, round
flare of sufficient length to fully engage the mating surface of the
flare nut without protruding into the threads (Figure 9.5).
Notes:
ii) A flare joint should be made with an appropriate tool such as those
supplied by a number of tubing/piping tool manufacturers. Make sure to
use a tool that matches the outside diameter of the tube being flared
and that has the appropriate flare angle, commonly 45º (the physical
characteristics of which should be in accordance with the Society of
Automotive Engineers SAE J533 Standard - Flares for Tubing). The
tool usually consists of flaring bars with openings for various tube sizes
and a yoke that contains the flaring cone and a clamp to grip the flaring
bars.
iii) When flaring Types L or K copper tube, annealed or soft temper tube
should be used. It is possible to flare Types K, L or M rigid or hard
temper tube, though prior to flaring it is usually necessary to anneal the
end of the tube to be flared. The copper tube must be cut square using
an appropriate tubing cutter.
Sources:
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/cth_8flrdjts.html
http://www.diyonline.com/servlet/GIB_BaseT/diylib_article.html?session.docid
=1669
5. What are the procedures in extraction of broken bolt?
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If the bolt has some of its shank/threads still protruding, try extracting by
unscrewing using vise-grip pliers. Also, sometimes, heating the assembly to
expand the metal components and/or freezing with a "Chiller" product to
shrink the bolt will make removal easier. If these techniques doesn't work,
select one of the following methods:
2) Drill a pilot hole into the center of the broken bolt with the left-
handed drill bit. A left-handed drill bit is threaded in the opposite
direction, so the reverse setting on your drill is what will actually drive in
the bit. You want to use a left-handed bit because it will torque in the
opposite direction as the broken bolt, which will stop the bolt from being
driven in tighter.
If you’re lucky, the left-handed bit will grab and unscrew the bolt
enough by itself for you to grab the bolt with a pair of vice grips or
channel locks and finish removing it from there.
Make sure you use the appropriate size drill bit. The bits in the
extracting kit should have a table letting you know what size to use
based on the size of the bolt you need to remove. Using too big a bit
will risk damaging the threads on the bolt, and using too small a bit will
require a smaller, weaker extractor with a higher risk of breaking off
during the process.
3) Place the appropriate-size extracting bit into the hole you created
with the drill. Based on the type of extracting kit you purchased, the
extracting bit will have a tapered, left-handed bit at one end and either
a hex head or a T-handle head at the other. Since the extractor is also
a left-handed bit, it will also work into the broken bolt with a
counterclockwise movement.
Since the extractor is tapered, you should initially tap it into place with
your hammer before switching to a socket or T-handle.
1) Thread a hex nut onto the bolt. With any threading the bolt still has
exposed, tighten a hex nut onto it. You want to attach the nut firmly, but
back it off around half a turn, so that it’s not completely flush with the
surface into which the bolt is embedded.
2) Weld the bolt to the nut. Be especially careful if the surface into
which the broken bolt is embedded is one that will melt to the steel bolt
or nut. Because of this, this method works best against a surface such
as aluminum, which does not easily weld to steel.
Source:
http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Broken-Bolt
https://www.lawsonproducts.com/pdfs/PIRFS003_PI.pdf
6. What are the tools needed for threading and rethreading and list down
the procedure in doing it.
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Tools:
3) Bench vise
4) If there is no hole to thread yet, a press drill and suitable drill bits
1) Determine the size of hole you need, and what screw size is
suitable. Refer to a technical publication for the exact
measurements for hole size. For example, if you want to use a
1/4-20 screw then you must use a #7 drill bit. Your set of taps
may also state the appropriate hole size to use with each tap.
4) Insert tap. Hold the tap in line with the hole and turn it
clockwise. Try to keep it very straight as you turn, this is
important. You may feel the material breaking.
5) Every few turns, back the tap out (counterclockwise /
anticlockwise) to clear away chips of loose material. This is
especially important in a blind hole, one that does not go all the
way through the workpiece.
6) When the tap has reached the required depth, back it out,
clean out chips and any cutting fluid or lubricant, and try
your screw or bolt in it
Sources:
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Tap
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die
7. What are the tools needed to perform removal and installation of stud
bolt.
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Tools:
Procedure:
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Hammer & Mould type rivet
Tools:
4) Hammer
5) Punching pad/backing
Procedure:
1) Select the correct rivet size for the hole diameter and depth. It is
necessary to know the thickness of the joined materials for the
correct selection of the rivet. The height of the shaft for thinner
materials should be optimally about 1-2 mm, for thicker
materials of 2-3 mm less than the thickness of the joined
materials
Note it is necessary to punch a hole corresponding to the
diameter of the shaft of the rivet in the joining materials. The
hole diameter for the rivet must not be too tight or significantly
greater.
If the hole is too tight, the shaft will not go through the hole.
With a blow to the rivet head of the riveter, the shaft is deformed
in the rivet head, increases its diameter and thus create a
dismountable joint.
Reminders:
Source:
http://blog.pethardware.com/en/how-to-manual-riveting/
2) Push rivet pin/shank all the way into rivet pulling tool
4) Repeat steps 2-3 above until rivet pin snaps off, leaving a rivet
head on both sides of workpieces.
9. Explain how you construct your project.
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While filing down, ensure the sides are flat and at 90 degrees by
using a try square
2) Mark out & centrepunch (5mm interval) the 30mm triangle notch.
Saw allowing at least 1mm margin & file at correct angle (see
below)
3) Using a protractor, markout & centrepunch (interval 5mm) the
40mm corner curve radius shown below
1. Drill all holes with a 3,5 mm twist drill first, then drill:
(i) hole 1 with a 9,0 mm twist drill
(ii) hole 2 with a 8,5 mm twist drill
(iii)hole for M 10 with a 8,5 mm twist drill
(iv) hole for M8 with a 6,8 mm twist drill
(v) hole for M6 with a 5,0 mm twist drill
2. Countersink all holes only on this side with the lowest
speed of drill machine
3. Countersink hole 1 with counter bore 9 x 15 at least 5 mm
deep
4. Countersink hole 2 with the necessary 90 countersink
5. Tap the threads with required screw taps M 10, M8 and M6
(do not forget to lubricate)
6. Tap a shank to fit into the M6 hole thread
7. Practice soldering two wires together
8. Submit your work results
10. List down all tools you can see in the work shop.
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1) Hacksaws
2) Files & file brush
3) Drill press
4) Hammers
5) Punch set, including centre punch
6) Bench grinder
7) Vises
8) Rulers
9) Try square
10) Protractor
11) Angle ruler
12) Brooms, dust brush & dustpans
13) Safety goggles
14) First - aid kit
15) Punch set for lettering
16) Taps and dies
17) Arc weld machine
18) Soldering iron, solder & solder paste
19) Rivet (compression-pull) tool and rivets pins