APPAREL PRODUCTION INTERNSHIP REPORT

Internship Report submitted in partial

fulfilment of the award of the degree
Of
Bachelor of Fashion Technology
In
National Institute of Fashion Technology

Submitted By
Gopal Krishna

May 2017 – Sept 2017

Arvind Limited, Lifestyle Apparel, Denim Division,
Mysore Road Bengaluru

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At the outset, I wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in the
formulation of the report. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but
there are some special people who have to be given prominence, without whom we would not
have reached the conclusion of this project so efficiently.

I am thankful to our course coordinator Ms. Kavita Pathare. Our mentors at college Mr. Nitin
Uttam Salve, who has always added our buoyancy with their tremendous efforts and constant
support.

At Arvind Limited I would like to thank the HR manager, Mr. Viaksh Tripathi; our industry
mentor, Mr. Hanumantha Rao. Also I would like to express a special gratitude to the company
for being excellent hosts.

I take the opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent faith
and encouragement which helped us in completion of this project.

I would like to express our special gratitude and thanks to the industry persons for giving us
the attention and time.

Gopal Krishna

Department Of Fashion Technology

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 INDEX

S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO

Preface 4
Abstract 5
1.1 About The Company/Introduction 6
1.2 About The Company/Company’s Vision 7
1.3 About The Company/Denim Division 8
1.4 About The Company/Executive Leader 14
1.5 About The Company/Board Of Director 16
1.6 About The Company/International Buyer 17
1.7 About The Company/Own Brands 18
1.8 About The Company/Innovation And Sustainability 19
1.9 About The Company/Accreditations 23
1.10 About The Company/Company’s CSR Policy 25
1.11 About The Company/Organisational Structure 27
2.0 Production Process/Denim Construction Process Flow 28
2.1 Production Process/Merchandising Dept. 31
2.2 Production Process/Storage Dept. 41
2.3 Production Process/Ppc Dept. 53
2.4 Production Process/Testing Laboratory 58
2.5 Production Process/Sampling And Pattern Making, CAD 67
2.6 Production Process/Marker Lying 80
2.7 Production Process/Fabric Spreading 83
2.8 Production Process/Fabric Cutting 86
2.9 Production Process/Sewing Section 99
2.10 Production Process/Industrial Engineering 112
2.11 Production Process/Denim Washing 114
3.0 Production Process/Finishing Dept. 131
3.1 Production Process/Maintenance Dept. 140
MINI PROJECT
3.2 Production Improvement In Cutting Section 153
3.3 First Hour Production Improvement In Dry Process 158
3.4 Drier Capacity Improvement 175
PROJECT
3.5 Implementation Of 5s In Cutting Section 177
3.6 Re-Engineering Of Cutting Layout 206
ANNEXURE

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 PREFACE
Internship at Arvind Ltd provides an opportunity to have detailed and practical study of the
various processes that take place in the garment industry. The document incorporates the
basic information and documentation of garment manufacturing (Jeans manufacturing)

The document also consists of details, process flow and learnings of the departments, i.e.
fabric department, cutting department, sewing department, finishing department. Also
covering projects undertaken during the period of internship as part of the curriculum.

The entire document is prepared on the basis of comprehensive studies, daily visits to the
industry and the information provided by the concerned department heads of the industry.

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 Abstract

The objectives of this project is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly application of
knowledge on real life projects and assignments and to study manufacturing process
thoroughly. To understand the functioning of different departments and execute small
projects/assignments as per organizational need in some selected departments if there is any
scope or requirement of improvement or changes. While understanding the functioning of
different departments, detailed study is carried out about the processes involved in making
the garment from the fabric until it gets shipped to the buyer. Also the problems that are
observed in each particular department are noted and also suggestions to remove them are
given. The project carried out is in improvising and standardising the machine identification,
the accountability of spare parts that are consumed and the maintainability of machine of
weekly and monthly basis based on scheduled parameter. Thus, it helps in understanding the
machine working better. And allowing the better track record of the inventory which is
replaced on a frequent basis in order to understand how much inventory is given out and what
is the required stock that has to be purchased at the month end. The second project is carried
out in the washing department. Since there is various numbers of styles running, the time
required for each style was unknown, hence calculating the time study for different dry
process and standardising the time for each which would be helpful in calculating the lead
time in the future.

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 1.1 About the company/ Introduction

Arvind Limited is a textile manufacturer and the flagship company of the Lalbhai Group.
Its headquarters is in Naroda, Ahmedabad in Gujarat, India. As an organization, Arvind
has successfully integrated diverse businesses, services and products, unified by a
common vision of enriching lifestyles. Founded in 1931 by Kasturbhai Lalbhai,
Narottambhai Lalbhai, Chimanbhai Lalbhai, Arvind lost no time in establishing its
position as one of India's leading super-fine fabric manufacturers for the domestic
market. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh
and profits were Rs. 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year,
Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country. In the year 1987-
1988 they enter the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure and
Denim for fashion wear and in 1991 emerge as the third largest manufacturer of denim in
the world. The year 1997-1998 marked Arvind as the first company to develop ERP SAP
business solutions. In the year 2008 they launched Megamart, now India’s largest value
apparel-retail chain. In 2010 Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the
company’s best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one
roof. Arvind launches its first major Real Estate projects. Arvind becomes one of India’s
largest producers of fire protection fabrics. It manufactures cottonshirting, denim, knits
and bottom weights (Khakis) fabrics. Its own brands are Flying Machine, Newport, Ruf
& Tuf, and Excalibur and licensed international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler and
Tommy Hilfiger, through its nationwide retail network.

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1.2 About the company/Company’s vision

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at Arvind
is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics

OUR PHILOSOPHY
We Believe
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams
for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.

We Endeavour
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to
build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.

We Dream
Of excellence in all endeavours; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a
better place to live in.

‘We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and
inspiring lifestyle solution.

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1.3 About the company/ Denim Division

Denim

The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an
installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of
denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been Arvind’s core
competency and have played a key role in Arvind’s success. The use of sophisticated
ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind
to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All Arvind’s products are designed and
modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from Arvind’s designers based out of
India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark
of distinctiveness and quality. Some Examples:

 Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

 Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
 Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, and Linen
 Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
 Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Hand spun denim
 Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025
certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc. .

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Woven Fabrics
Shirting & Bottom weights
Arvind’s expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled. Arvind’s
shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and international markets.
Arvind’s state of the art facility is capable of producing a total of 65 million meters per
annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to increase reaching a total
of 84 million meters by the next financial year.
We have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and
fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. We also boast of the largest
yardage and sampling mill in India.

Arvind’s product range is certified by Oekotex, Arvind’s processes are certified by GOTS for
producing Organic products, we're certified producers of Lycra and Teflon based varieties,
while Arvind’s laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's,
DuPont and INVISTA.

Knits

Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical
has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons
per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers
specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:
 Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

 Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric

 Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

 Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks

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Garment Exports

A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our range of

fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching
lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves as a one-stop shop for apparel
solutions catering to an array of national and international clients.
 Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum

 Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum

 Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum

 Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:

 Automated Placement Printing Machinery

 India’s largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes

 Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry processes

 Skilled artisans for hand processes

Gap Inc. – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver Jeans –
Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit – S.Oliver – Mexx –
Sisley – Benetton – Coin

Advanced materials

We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering high-tech textile
solutions for critical and composite applications.

Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the Advanced Textiles
Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have brought a new level of
sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of branded fabrics and composite
textiles includes solutions for growing industrial sectors like Personal Protection, Industrial
Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto Components, Transportation, and Housing &
Infrastructure.

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Products in the Pro1 range include:
 Fire Protection Fabrics

o Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics


Proban

Pyrovatex

o Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics


Nomex

Protex (Modacrylic)

 High Tech Applications

o Filtration Fabrics

o Anti-Ballistic Fabrics

o Nylon Fabrics

o Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics

Arvind Brands

Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that are as
distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work across multiple
channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of the Arvind brands cape is
spread across the Indian market with around 273 standalone brand stores in addition to 975
counters selling through key accounts and multiband outlets across India.

OWN BRANDS LICENSED BRANDS JOINT VENTURED BRANDS

Mainstream Bridge to luxury Bridge to Luxury

Excalibur Gant U.S.A 1949 Tommy Hilfiger

Flying Machine Energie’

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POPULAR PREMIUM PREMIUM

Ruf & Tuf USPA Wrangler

New Port University Arrow Lee

Cherokee Izod

Mossimo

Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain - Megamart. The Mega Mart format offers a
unique and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega brands at amazingly
low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq. ft. to 65000 sq. ft. The larger stores are
called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and
Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are 205 in number. Megamart is
expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 crore chain within the next two years.

The brands sold exclusively in Megamart include:

RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL -

BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE

The Arvind Store

After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has now
introduced the Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail. The Arvind Store
brings together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer. It is a convergence of three
of Arvind’s strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics from Arvind’s textiles division, leading
apparel brands from Arvind Brands and bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment

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styles from Arvind Studios. In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion,
The Arvind Store will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian
Marketplace.

Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim
Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized washed denim - a
first of its kind in India and perhaps the world
Arvind Studio – A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the world

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1.4 About the company/ Executive Leaders

Corporate

Jayesh Shah

Director & CFO

Anang Lalbhai

MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar

CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics – Denim

Susheel Kaul

CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

PD Chavda

President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar

CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

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Brands & Retail

J. Suresh

Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy

Milan Shah

CEO, Knowledge Academy

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1.5 About the Company/Board of directors

MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the Company. He
is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management and has been
associated with the Company for more than 33 years.

MR. JAYESH SHAH (DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Whole time Director with the designation of Director and
Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a Chartered
Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.

MR. PUNIT LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in Strategy and
General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters of Environmental Science
from Yale University, and a Bachelor’s degree in Science (Conservation Biology) from
University of California, USA.

MR. KULIN LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)

Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along with a
Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford University, USA.

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1.6 About the company/ International buyers

Figure: International Buyers

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1.7 About the Company/ OWN BRANDS

Figure: Own Brands

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1.8 About the company/ Innovation and Sustainability

Arvind with its belief in Design, Innovation and Sustainability, strengthens its partnership
with INVISTA and LYCRA fiber. Over the past few years, Arvind and INVISTA together
have driven many denim innovations in the market, enabling brands to bring differentiated
products for their respective discerning customers.

At Arvind, business units span across the entire textiles and apparel value chain- from
growing organic cotton through spinning, weaving, processing and finally manufacturing and
retailing its own repertoire of diverse brands.

The new coming up unit at Bengaluru centre is named as Aastha.


Environmental Policy:

Arvind commits itself to continually improve our environmental management. It strives

to go beyond the requirements of the applicable environmental laws and other regulations
through:

 Optimising usage of cotton, energy, chemicals and water.

 Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste and air
emissions.
 Maximising the recycling of inevitable wastes.
 Encouraging suppliers & buyers to become environmentally responsible.
 Maintaining a safe working environment.
 Increasing the green cover.
 Training employees on environmental issues.

 Effluent Treatment facilities:

All the production/ processing units are provided with adequate waste water/ water
treatment facilities, to meet the requirements of regulating authorities as well as the reputed
customers like Levis, Gap etc.

Arvind Apparels Limited, The Garment export division has the effluents treatment recycle
plants with the recycling capacity of 1450 m3 per day capacity. This plant also possesses
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 chemical, biological and tertiary treatment facilities to achieve the state pollution control
board norms. The uniqueness of this plant is- all its process water requirements will be
attained through recycled sewage water of Bengaluru city.

ETP FLOW DIAGRAM

Raw 5
1 2
3 4

Effluent
13
12
14

7 6
9
10
8 Domestic Sewage

1. Screen Chamber 9. Secondary tube settler

2. Equalization tank 10. Pre filtration tank
3. Flash Mixer 11. Dual media filter
To BWSSB
4. Flocculator 12. Sludge dry bed
5. Primary tube settler 13. Decanter
6. Holding sump SLUDGE LINE
Recycling
7. Bio tower EFFLUENT LINE
8. Aeration Tank

Figure: ETP Flow Diagram

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Effluent recycling at Arvind is carried out in three stages:


Physico chemical treatment: To remove dissolved solids and colloidal partials
and also to make the water fit for use
o Screening
o Equalisation Tank
o Aeration tank: Converts Co2 to O2
o Flash mixer: A chemical mixture of PAC(neutralises PH), MF
90(removes color) and animole (form sludge-flocculation)

Biological treatment: To remove organic impurities like BOD & COD
(activated sludge process).

Tertiary treatment: Removal of dissolved solids and colloidal removal
o Ultra-polishing treatment
o Pre filtration sand and cartridge filters
o Reverse osmosis
o MVRE and crystallization for salt
(Number of sand by units is provided so that the treated effluent quality
remains uniform throughout the year).
1. Air Pollution

Arvind has switched from liquid fuel to Natural gas for all their heating and steam
requirements in order to avoid the air pollution

2. Solid Waste Management:

All units believe in waste minimization measures. The ETP plants are provided with
adequate sludge dewatering facilities. The upcoming unit is provided with decanter
centrifuges for sludge de-watering. De- watered sludge is dried in solar evaporation
pans for further volume reduction. Waste oil generated in all the units is recycled.
Polythene liners, discarded containers are disposed to the respective buyers.

3. Afforestation and Rain water harvesting: Unit of Bengaluru, Mysore road has a
very good afforestation. Plants and trees are grown extensively. ETP treated water is
used for plantation. Ground water recharging facility is also developed wherein rain

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 water is recharged into the ground water table. Rain water during monsoons is
collected in these.

Figure: ETP Plant

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1.9 About the Company/ ACCREDIATIONS

ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for Manufacture and Supply of
Denim Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of standards is related to quality management systems and designed to
help organizations ensure that they meet the needs of customers and other stakeholders [1]
while meeting statutory and regulatory requirements related to the product.

The ISO 9001:2000 version sought to make a radical change in thinking by actually placing
the concept of process management front and center ("Process management" was the
monitoring and optimisation of a company's tasks and activities, instead of just inspection of
the final product).

IS0 14000: Provides environment management standards to help organisations minimize

their negative impact on the environment
Environment Management System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by third party
Focuses on process as in case of ISO 9000

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by Shirley Technologies Ltd., UK, for Black and Indigo dyed
denim fabrics, black / indigo printed denim fabric –including stretch denims.
The Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for
textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production.
The tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by
law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health and parameters which are included
as a precautionary measure to safeguard health.
“Skal International Standards for Sustainable Textile Production” by Control Union
Certifications, The Netherlands, for Processing of organic cotton.

“Global Organic Textile Standards” Control Union Certifications, The Netherlands, for
Processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.

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Levi’s strauss Laboratory Certification by Levi Strauss & Co., Test Methods and conditions
set forth, Denim Laboratory, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL – National Accreditation Board for Laboratories, Delhi, India, for
Chemical & Mechanical disciplines of testing.

Premier Accreditation Scheme by Marks & Spencer, Test Methods and conditions set
forth, Laboratory, Shirting Division Business, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

Liz Claiborne International Ltd. Testing audit performance, Laboratory, Shirting Business
Division, The Arvind Mills Ltd.

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1.10 About the Company/ Company’s CSR Policy

The Arvind Limited Policy on Corporate Social Responsibility (ALPCSR)

CSR VISION
To impact positively, the quality of life of people, through initiatives of social,
economic, educational, infrastructural, environmental, health and cultural advancement.

Policy Objective: There are five key objectives of ALPCSR

 To develop guidelines and articulate the broader intervention areas
 To define projects and programmes under the articulated intervention areas
 To define implementation mechanism and organisational base for implementation
 To define monitoring mechanism, periodicity and reporting procedures
 To define budgetary allocation

At the Arvind Denim limited they employ the blind people for working some easy operations
where a lot of human effort is not required, Also since majority of the people working here
are women, the work area has a well-managed crèche so that the children are not left alone at
home in the absence of their mothers.
Articulating Broader Areas of Intervention

ALPCSR have projects and programmes under the following broad areas which will be synergetic to
the broader areas that the Schedule VII of the New Companies Act has defined from time to time.
CSR Committee will update the intervention areas and the project and programmes every year and
suggest changes if any, after approval of the Board.

• Education

• Employment enhancing vocational skills for Employability

• Projects and programmes around factory premises

• Health

• Environmental Initiatives

• Agricultural Initiatives

• Water and Sanitation

• Art and Cultural Initiatives

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 • Rural Development Initiatives

• Other Social Advancement Initiatives

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1.11 About the Company/ Organisational structure

Figure: Organisational Structure of Arvind

Plant manager

Asst. Plant manager Maintenance Asst. Plant manager

Fabric store HR

Trim store Admin

Cutting IT

Sewing denim
Purchase

Sewing laundry
Planning

Washing
Account
Finishing

EXIM
Quality

Packing

Packing

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2.0 Production Process/ Denim Construction Process flow

ORDER ENQUIRY

Product
Development /
Costing

ORDER
CONFIRMATION

Sampling
Planning Fit Sample Sourcing
- Manpower Size set / Sealer / Fabric / Trims
- Material PP sample
- Machine

Fabric / Trims
PP Sample Approval In-house

PP Meeting
Material FAIL
Inspectio
n

Cutting

Printing /
Embroidery
FAIL
Panel
Inspectio
n

Sewing

Alteration / Repair
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 Quality
Check

Washing

Dry Process Wet Process

Mould / Whisker / Mould / Whisker /

Hand Sanding - Hand Sanding - Semi Wet Process Full Wet process
Manual Manual - Laser

Tacking / Tying /
Netting Enzyme / Enzyme + PP Spray
Stone / Stone /
Sponge / Towel /
Bleach
Resin Spray Neutral + Softener

Local Resin Full Body Resin Grinding

Crinkling Colour Spray

Curing Process 3D

FAIL
Quality
Check Re-process

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 Finishing

Alteration / Repair

FAIL
Quality
Check

Packing

FAIL Shipment
Audit / Buyer
QA
Inspection

SHIPMENT
DISPATCH

Figure: Production Process flow of denim

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2.1 Production process/ Merchandising department

Upon confirmation of the order from the buyer the job of the merchandising department
starts. A merchandiser is the middleman between the manufacturer and the buyer.
Merchandiser is solely responsible for coordinating inter departmental activities and to get
the shipment dispatched on schedule. A merchandiser takes care of all the orders from his/her
designated buyer.

The merchandiser also coordinates the sampling procedure. He gets all the samples made in
various stages and sends them to the buyer and carries out the necessary corrections &
additions told by the buyer. The sampling process is a lengthy & very crucial process,
because what you get approved finally by the buyer, if your bulk shipment doesn’t match
even in the tiniest of specifications, the whole shipment can be rejected. So, a merchandiser
should very clearly and carefully examine & analyze each sample before he sends to the
buyer & get approval.

Merchandising Section

A Merchandising division surrounds the concept of the target customer and translates the
customer preference into a product line for the rest of the apparel firm. Merchandising is the
planning, development and presentation of product line for identified target market with
regard to prices, assortment, styling and timing. Merchandising department is the central
coordinating point for line development, design execution and delivery of products. It plays a
major role in the industry and they communicate with all other department to give the
information from the Buyer and get the things done on the required date. Merchandiser deals
with the Buyer and the suppliers and through them the order is processed and delivery dates
are met on time.

Merchandising involves the conceptualization, development, procurement of raw material,

sourcing, planning and coordination between all the departments for production and delivery
of apparel products to the customer. The Merchandising Department is responsible for selling
the manufactured product to the buyer. It is responsible for getting the orders and hence
generates a source of revenue for the company. A team of merchants, along with people from
various departments such as Production, Sampling, Quality, are responsible for overseeing
the development of the product.

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In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior
merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co coordinating with the
buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality and
price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow
up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc.

Merchandiser will check whether it is possible to go ahead with the style and if the style is
feasible will get the costing done and get the sample ready. The goal is the timely delivery of
costing details and samples so as to receive an order from the buyer. Merchandiser needs to
make the time and action plan, allocating time to various activities keeping in mind the
resources available in hand.

Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and
Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and
investigate for future buyers.

Process flow in merchandising

Figure: Flow Process in Merchandising

Receive P.O from the OB received from IED Package file sent to
& production plan all dept. with all
buyer
from PPC details

Receive tech pack & Trims and fabric Time & action chart
sample approved prepared for orders

Tech pack & sample Fabric and trims Packaged garment

sent to sampling and ordered after shipped to buyer with
tech dept. approval tech pack copy

Sample sent to buyer Send tech dept. for

with test reports for correction
approval

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Functions Performed By Merchandising Department

The functions performed by the Merchandising department can be broadly classified under
the following headlines.

1) Communication

2) Co-ordination

3) Planning

4) Follow up

5) Sourcing

6) Costing

7) Sampling

8) Compliance &

9) Documentation and Maintaining Records

These steps are made practical through the functionality flow in the merchandising
department below.

Figure: Functionality flow in merchandising

Green Tag Sample PP Sample

DGD received

Development Yellow Tag Sample Bulk Production

sample

Fit Sample/Sellers
Proto Sample sample

33 | P a g e
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior
merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co-coordinating with the
buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality and
price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow
up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc.

What is a merchandiser expected to do?

A merchandiser is expected to perform the following roles and responsibilities.

 All communication, information flow throughout the order cycle (with buyers & with
departments within the company and vendors) from receipt of order to final shipping of
goods.
 Costing negotiations (with buyers)
 Prepare Time and Action (T&A) calendar
 Approvals of quality of fabrics and accessories.
 Order tracking and monitoring ON TIME shipment status
 Monitoring material utilization for every order.
 Ensuring all products meet the specified testing parameters as lay down by the buyer /
customer.
 Approval on fabric quality, colour, shade banding and also approval on trims Coordination
between various departments (such as fabric sourcing, sampling, purchase, production, quality
assurance and logistics) for smooth execution and timely delivery of orders.
 Capacity planning for the season (in coordination with the central planning)
 All the tentative orders are discussed in a forum called as the marketing meeting.
 This meeting happens once in a month.
 It is attended by the
1. CEO
2. Vice President (VP) &
3. Central planning.
 The central planning plays a key role in appraising the group on the current status of the
factory in terms of capacity utilization, slot available etc.
 The projections made in this meeting at are two levels namely micro level & macro level. The
micro level will indicate orders running or planned for next four months whereas the macro
level will give a projection on the tentative orders or orders which will surely be confirmed.
 This projection is made for coming 6 months.

34 | P a g e
  This meeting helps the merchandisers in understanding the capacity available and can work
out the order cycle accordingly.
 On the other hand in case the factory is underutilized then it sends a signal to the
merchandisers to book orders proactively.
 In a single statement Merchandiser is the process owner of the order cycle (from order
confirmation to shipment).The order cycle can be divided into pre order cycle and post order
cycle.

Key Responsibilities of a Merchandiser

 Communication
 Coordination
 Planning
 Follow up
 Sourcing
 Costing
 Negotiation
 Sampling
 Compliance
 Managerial
 Decision Making
 Documentation and Maintaining Records

Merchandiser role in Production Development

A merchandiser can have both buyer and seller roles. As a buyer for materials needed in
production, his duties might include sourcing vendors, securing samples and communicating
between the export house and suppliers. In the seller role, the merchandiser helps buyers with
developing merchandise specifications for export house orders. Export house duties can
include developing samples and presentation portfolios used to secure prospective buyers. An
educational background in design may be sought for an export merchandiser whose primary
duty is to assist clients with product development. In the garment industry, for instance, the
merchandiser may help a client develop custom specifications for garment designs, including
fabric and color selections.

35 | P a g e
OTHER ROLES OF MERCHANDISER

 Order Follow-Up.
 Prepares a timetable during pre-production and production stages.
 Conducts plan visits to follow-up the status of the product/order.
 Closely monitors the production process and sends progress reports to the buyer.
 Establishes clear measures for quality control, and affects the same in inspecting all
orders placed during production and post-production prior to loading.
 Ensures on-time delivery of the goods to the buyer.
 Negotiates with buyer in case of delay.

WORK OF MERCHANDISER

In every season the garment merchandiser receives tech pack from various buyers. These tech
packs contain information about the garment down to very last detail. Four copies of these
tech packs are made for the following.

 INDUSTRIAL IE DEPARTMENT
 CAD DEPARTMENT (PATTERN MAKING)
 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
 SELF

MERCHANDISER ROLES IN DIFFERENT WORK PROCESS

Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk
purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims.

There are different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and
zippers etc.

The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms and
executes the styles for sampling.

A final sample called the sealer sample or the pre-production sample is made which is sent to
the factory for bulk production. During production, if any shortage in fabric or trims or any
other problems arise, the merchant is informed, and they acquire more fabric or trims, or

36 | P a g e
under extreme conditions, inform the buyer for an extension in delivery date. Market and
product merchandising are two main forms of merchandising.

Marketing Merchandising

 Contact with buyers

 Sending samples
 Getting approvals & rejections and further communications
 Payment terms and other negotiations

Product Merchandising

 Sourcing of raw materials

 Costing
 Sample development at various stages
 Production status
 Completion of order on time and with required buyer specifications

Hierarchy in merchandising

Head Merchandiser

Senior Marketing Senior Production

Merchandiser Merchandiser

Junior Marketing Junior Production

Merchandiser Merchandiser

Figure: Merchandising Hierarchy

37 | P a g e
 The marketing department is responsible for procuring the orders from buyers globally.
Either the buyer can approach the company or the marketing team will present their
products at the world stage to receive orders. Thus, it is imperative to maintain reliable
and trustworthy relations with the vendors.

At Arvind Mills, Mysore road the marketing team is divided under three heads. The U.S.
team caters to the business interests in the states. The European team looks after the
buyers from the European countries while the Domestic team caters to the domestic
buyers.

Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk
purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are different
merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and zippers etc.
The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms
and executes the styles for sampling. Based on the issues that crop up during sampling,
changes are made, re submits are made over and over again, until the required look and
feel of the garment is achieved.

38 | P a g e
 Pre Order Process flow

Figure: Pre order Process flow chart

Receipt of Inspiration/mood board or Tech pack or GSS

or Garment from buyer

Style dropped &inform buyer

Check capacity
If not feasible
with central
planning &
feasibility with

If feasible

If not available Check for

availability of
Request from sourcing fabric with stores

Proto sample
Follow up for fabric in house
Sample indent
If not
approved
Prepare costing of the garment Approval by
internal QA

Approval
from buyer
If not approved
Approval by
buyer QA

Physical copy of cost

Not
sheet authorized by, VP &
approved
CEO
SMS sample if applicable

Not
Physical copy sent to
approved
BI for reference Approval of Approval of
buyer QA QA

39 | P a g e
ORDER CONFIRMATION (locked in movex)
Post Order Process
Figure: Post Order Process Flow Chart

Post order conformation

Order confirmation mail sent to Work orders are sent to fabric

concerned departments sourcing, trim sourcing

Indent for fit sample to sampling

Fit sample

Approval by
internal QA

Approval of
buyer

PP sample

Approval by
internal QA

Approval of
buyer

Release of production file

PP meeting
Production monitoring Preproduction activities

40 | P a g e
Shipment
2.2 Production Process/Storage Department

One of the major and important departments in any industries is the stores. The department involved
in purchasing the raw materials and required accessories and keeps ready for production with a view
not to suffer due to non-availability of materials at these of actual requirement.

In the garment industry stores maintain fabric, trims and accessories record of all incoming and
outgoing materials is the responsibility of the stores.

Stores normally are the centralized section fabric storage for the unit after for stabilization of the
whole unit fabric is ordered by the sourcing department in accordance with the requirement of the
merchandiser for the export order. For job orders store in charge of the respective unit are the
responsible for the follow up for placing the purchase order and the receipt in most cases or in other
words the hierarchy level of the stores is as follows in connection to the decision making.

Store at Arvind is divided into two sections:

 Fabric Store
 Trim Store

Fabric Store:

This is centralized fabric storage for all four divisions in Bengaluru.

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise such that fabric will be obtained .It works in co-ordination with the
merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the
scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcing executive must have knowledge about all varieties
of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.

The fabrics are sourcing from Ahmadabad basically. The fabrics they are sourcing from
Arvind Textiles, Ahmadabad, Raymonds Textiles etc. The objective of the storage is to store
the fabric in efficient manner and issue the fabric for cutting. After storing the fabrics in the
storage, the QA team inspects the fabric by using 4 point system. For Arvind fabrics, they
checked 10% of the lots and for non-Arvind fabrics; they checked 20% of the lots. The defect
points are also specified by the buyers like for Levis, the average defect acceptance point is
18 points/ 100 sq. mt. individually and average defects acceptance point is 14 points/ 100 sq

41 | P a g e
mt (roll wise). For other brands the average DPT is 24 points / 100 sq. mt. individually and
and roll wise 20 points / 100 sq.mt.

For storing they are using racks as per the buyer requirements. Like for making Levis
garments, the fabrics must be stored in racks. For GAP, they put the rolls in Pyramid way, so
that every part of the roll gets same pressure during storing so that no dimensional instability
happens. For, Raymonds, they put the rolls in crisscross way.

Objective is that the Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage, width
and P.O. Layout of the fabric storage. The process flow of the fabric storage is from the fabric
ordering till it is received.

Figure: Fabric Store

42 | P a g e
Manpower with department hierarchy

Figure: Fabric Store Hierarchy

Assistant
Manager

Department
Executive

Store Store
Assistant Assistant

Helpers Helpers

Details about the department

Table : Fabric Store Details

Fabric testing requirements 1. Maximum acceptance defects points/ 100 sq.

mts (Single roll) – 24 points.
2. Average Defects Points/ 10sq mts
(Shipment) – 20 points.

Material handling system 6 manually operated trolleys.

43 | P a g e
Storage capacity 4.2 lakhs meters denim fabric and about 25 tons
of knits.

STORAGE SYSTEM 1. The storage system is based on line wise

having a lot number and also brand wise for easy
identification.
2. The rolls are arranged manually about 55-60
thousand meters in one line.
3. The average length of one roll is about 100-
135 meters.
4. About 95% of the fabric used is from Arvind
mills and the rest being from Vardhaman, Techno
craft etc.
5. The fabric bought is tracked and kept in a data
base called Order Completion Report.
6. In 4 point inspection system that maximum
defects accepted per 100 square meters fabric is
24.

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Fabric Inspection System

Figure1: Fabric Store Inspection

o The rolls that are received are inspected by 4 point inspection system, 10% for Arvind
mills limited (AML) fabric and 20% for non AML.
o 4 Point system for fabric inspection:

Table: Fabric Inspection System

DEFECTS POINTS
0-3 1 POINT
3-6 2 POINT
6-9 3 POINT
9 AND ABOVE 4 POINT

o Maximum acceptance defects points per 100 sq. mts. (Single roll) – 24 points
o Average defects points per 100 sq. mts. (Shipment) – 20 points

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Fabric Inspection process flow

Figure : Fabric Inspection Process Flow Chart

Receive priority from ppc dept.In

house details from ware house

Receive invoice along with MR copy

&go through

inspect the rolls

10% for arvind Infrom to perchase
fabric,20% for merchant&ware house
no arvind fabric document

Cut the 15 cm of CSV head ends

from both ends of rolls

Prepare

Receive the swatches from washing

Take approval for CSV swatches

&inspection report from QA
manager,merchant &ware house
manager

Handover the inspection report to

ware house and cutting
dept&document

End

46 | P a g e
Process flow chart

Figure : Fabric Store Department Process Flow Chart

Indent from merchant

(PO) purchase order preparation

from purchase department

Rolls Delivery from mills/

Supplier

Physically Not ok
verify Inform to mills/ Supplier/
Document
packing Purchase merchant

OK

Document
material inwards

Inspect received Not ok

Return to mills/ supplier
rolls 10% AML to inform purchase Document
fabric, 20% for merchant
non AML

OK

47 | P a g e
 Documented rolls approved

Allocation from PPC

Unit Unit B
allocation Transfer rolls from channel
from PPC

Unit A

Receive issue request

Rolls issue against issue slip

Receive
remaining Dead stock (After 6 months)
fabric rolls

Conformatio
n from MIS
In Stock Document department
Re use / re allocate

Return to mill or follow

Document
disposal advice

48 | P a g e
End
Fabric Inspection process flow

Receive priority from PPC Department, In

house details from Ware house

Receive Invoice along with MR

copy and go through

Inspect the rolls

Reject
10%for AML, 20% Inform to purchase Merchant
for non –AML & ware house & document
Fabric

Ok

Cut the 15cms of CSV head ends

from both ends of the roll

Prepare CSV swatches (Marking, cutting &

entering the roll & sort number details on
CSV fabric & send to washing

Receive the swatches

from washing

Test approval for CSV swatches &

inspection report to ware house &
cutting department & document

Handover the inspection report to ware

house & cutting department END
&document

49 | P a g e
Problems And Defects In This Department: Our observation

 During storage, shade/shrinkage/width is not considered

 No special storage for the fabric which are more stretchable.

 Nap direction and grain line are not considered during storage.

 Fabric relaxation is not done here.

 Racks are used for Levis only.

Trims storage
It has the centralized trim storage for all four units of denim in Bengaluru.

As the order gets confirmed the trims are ordered before 15 days of start of production.

This department is similar to the Fabric storage department but the main difference is that the
fabric storage department works for sourcing the fabrics.

The working is as follows:

The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular style
to the purchasing department and the concerned person starts the further process and for
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also
the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its
production.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., is given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for
all the orders irrespective of the buyer.

This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The goods
are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the
requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this breakups will
have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is
being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be sent all
50 | P a g e
 2. Transit Lead-time

the time so, in order to overcome this breakups are given. Then the purchase department has
to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new
set of the materials for that particular style and then the department also has to maintain the
receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being
carried out for those materials. Objective: Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to
the finishing department and sampling department.

Functions

- Negotiation of prices, quality, delivery place and time with the supplier
- Prepare proposals according to the buyer’s requirement
- Selection of supplier for order
- Co-ordination with the merchandiser, supplier, and finance department
- Store the trims and accessories with approved trim card and issue to the factory
Departments.
Lead time for Trims and Accessories
The lead time is divided in two parts:

1. Production Lead-time

In case of domestic accessories, the production lead-time is 7-10 days and the transit lead-
time is 2 days. In case of imported accessories, the production lead-time is 3-4 weeks and the
transit lead time is7-10 days for air and 20-30 days for sea.

Quality Checkings
Quality Indicators: Green - accepted, Red – Rejected

 Thread- color, tex. , shade against shade card, verify with other boxes.

 Zipper- teeth color, size, tape color, slider shape, slider movement, logo

 Labels- care instructions, size, center out, color, barcode numbers

 Elastic- width, color, holes, stretch ability, shrinkage

51 | P a g e
  Price ticket- style no, barcode no, size, price, centre out, content

 Buttons- types, holes, shape, logo, color, line/size, M/D test

 Poly Bag- size, caution print, print direction, thickness, print quality, sealing

Man Power: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper.

Problems And Defects In This Department: Our Observations

 Item wise bin cards or item wise stock in system is not available.
 Quality checking area and quarantined product’s area is very small.
 Needles and labels are not kept safely, i.e. in cupboard and cotton bin box
respectively.

52 | P a g e
2.3 Production Process/ PPC DEPARTMENT

A PPC Department is one of the important departments of industry. It takes the order from the
buyers according to plant capacity. It plans the job and task scheduling that is the preparation
of time and action calendar for each order from order receiving to shipment. The department
maintains the specification sheet according to the buyer’s requirement as it consists of ID
(Identification data).

It plans the routing of the process that is under this, their path and sequence are established
for the production of the final goods.

It controls the production in such a way that the process of planning production in advance of
operations, establishing the extract route of each individual item part or assembly, setting,
starting and finishing for each important item important item, assembly. The finishing
production and releasing the necessary orders as well as initiating the necessary follow up to
have the smooth function of the enterprise .And the most important aim of PPC department is
to receive the orders ,plan them control them ,and deliver the goods on time with no failure in
customer’s satisfaction.

53 | P a g e
Process flow
Figure : Process Flow Chart of PPC Department

Production file handed over

to Factory PPE by
merchandiser

Size Set process

Supervisor Sample

Internal PPM

External PPM

Batch PPM

1) Production file handed over to Factory PPE by merchandiser

The production file is handed over to factory PPE by merchandiser.

Following are the details included in the Production file.

1. Order sheet

2. PP comments

3. Consumption chart and mini marker daily signed by merchandiser, pattern master and head
of sampling.

4. Final tech pack.

5. Final measurement sheet duly signed by merchandiser. And the pattern master.

6. Trim card -Fabric and accessories.

7. Strike off for embellishments.

8. Buyers strike off with embellishments (if any)

9. Process flow followed in sample.

10. Bill of materials (BOM).

54 | P a g e
2) Size Set Process

As the name suggests, size process means preparing one to three garments in all sizes. It
happens in the respective factory PPE .Size set is the manifestation of the pattern made by the
sampling department in the form of a garment. Size set helps in practically working on the
bulk fabric & trims and is a simulation of the production process. This helps in
acknowledging the problems in terms of fabric, trims or pattern. If required corresponding
changes are made in bulk marker. Methods of combating any production related issue are
carefully devised & monitored to find out whether desirable changes are attainable and
scalable.

Sop In Ppc Department

Figure: SOP in PPC Department

Receipt of production file from merchandiser

Receipt of pattern from sampling Requisition for fabric and trims for size set

Cutting

Sewing

RE DO
Sample
audit by
QC

Ironing

55 | P a g e
 Sample audit
IF FAIL
by nominated RE DONE
QA

Sample IF FAIL
audit by RE DONE
buyer QA

Samples to lab test

Pattern for Pilot Run

Pattern for bulk process

Supervisor Sample

56 | P a g e
Figure: Line Planning

Line plan from factory plan

Collect cut panels, production file & PP sample

Collect trims from stores

Prepare mock ups for critical actions

Sew the garments as per size set sample

Audit by If fail
line QC

Audit by If fail
line
nominated

Pass
Internal PPM

57 | P a g e
2.4 Production Process/TESTING LABORATORY

Functioning of the Department

The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that
are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for
such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval. The laboratory generally keeps in touch
with three major departments. The departments and their main functions and applications
with the laboratory are as follows.

(i) Fabric sourcing department

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later may
be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it
receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require
for the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small
amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for
that particular fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for
are as follows.

 Yarn count
 Construction of fabric
 Color fastness to washing
 Color fastness to crocking
 Dimensional stability to washing
 Fabric strength (tearing and bursting)
 Fabric weight

(ii) Accessory Stores

The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they sampling process starts and
then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular

58 | P a g e
accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists of tests that are generally done
for accessories are as follows:

 Button breaking test

 Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
 Color fastness test for elastics
 Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
 Corrugated box

(iii) Merchandising Department:

The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests which
has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The garment
sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as per the buyer
specifications.

After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric
samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it
in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the
particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, colour and
other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.

The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like

Type of test

Urgency of the task: Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally Duration of
the tests that has to be carried out Time required in getting the proper and the required output
Number of samples that has to be tested

Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of
the departments they proceed on priority basis. If the results are required very soon and the
tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and
then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of
tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and

59 | P a g e
then after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send
it the concerned department form where they received.

Objective:

Tests are done on the fabric and trim to know their properties, strengths and reaction towards
certain chemicals shown in figure5.1 and send the shade and shrinkage reports to the pattern
making section.

PROCESS FLOW
Start

Fabric Sourcing Accessory stores Merchandising

Test Test Carry on test

on fabric and
garment as per
buyer
Skew Appearance requirement

Attachment
Tensile strength
strength test On meeting
buyer
Dimensional requirement,
stability to Color fastness samples to be
Washing test and elastic sent to lab to
get approval
Stretch and
Recovery Lining fabrics

Color fastness to
washing/ crocking/ Dimensional
water/perspiration Stability

pH measurement

Fabric Weight

End
Figure: Process Flow Chart of Testing Department

60 | P a g e
Fabric Performance Test (FPT)

(i) Shrinkage Test:

- They have to cut samples of 15 cm X 15 cm or 30 cm X 30 cm or 45 cm X 45 cm

- Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube and sent for washing.

- Then the samples are sent for washing and after washing, the lab team take the
measurements and note down the shrinkage %.

- The tests are done two times and average is taken from it and according to that
percentage, the patterns are modified.

(ii) Shade Test:

- Shade grouping is done.

- The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied.

- Shade variation is measured.

- These test reports are sent to the sampling dept. where using CAD, the patterns are
created with the allowances.

(iii) Skew Test:

- Skew - When weft yarns are straight from one end to another end but angled
across the width of fabric.
- Skew % = (Angular division / full width of fabric) x 100

61 | P a g e
(iv) Tensile strength test:

- Sample needed = 6 x 4 inches

- Gauge length = 3 inches

- The sample is attached between the jaws of the machines and stretched until the
sample gets distorted. Then the reading is taken at that time.

(v) Tearing strength test:

- Tearing strength is the force required to tear a fabric.

- Sample size = 100 x 75 mm

- Testing area = 43 mm

- According to the template, the fabric sample is cut. Pendulum lever is there

- After placing the fabric, the pendulum is left for the free fall.

- Pendulum weight = 6400 grams.

- Tearing strength (grams) = Pendulum reading (%) x 64

(vi) Colour Fastness to crocking:

- Crocking means rubbing.

- The sample is placed on the machine and it is rubbed by the machine for 10 times.

- Sample size = 5x5 cms.

- After rubbing, generally some amount of color goes.

62 | P a g e
 - Then according to the grey scale, the color is matched.

Grey scale = 5 / 4-5 / 4 / 3-4 / 3 / 2-3 / 2 / 1-2 / 1

- According to the buyer specification, the points are measured.

- This test is done on both dry and wet specimens.

(vii) Seam Properties:

- Sample size = 14 x 4 inches

- Gauge length = 6 inches

- For this test, the machine used for tensile strength is used.

- Standard = 11 stitches /inch

Reading is calculated when the fabric is teared up to 6 inches

(viii) Weighing balance:

- GSM is calculated through this test.

- A GSM cutter (diameter=11.3cm) is also there to cut the sample needed.

(ix) Stretch and Recovery test:

- Sample size (in cms) = (5 x 22), (4 x 22), (3 x 22 ), (2 x 22), (1 x 22)

- These 5 specimens are taken for this test.

- The sample is held on one end of the equipment.

- At the other end, according to the sample, weight is hanged.

- Sample is stretched up to a certain limit.

- Then the fabric regains its normal structure.

- Stretch percentage is measured on the meter.

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(x) Colour Fastness to perspiration

- For this test acidic and basic solutions are formed.

Acidic solution= 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydrochloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2 gms
Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate

Basic solution = 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydro chloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2 gms
Sodium di hydrogen ortho phosphate dehydrate + NaOH (0.1 Normality until the pH
becomes 8)

- Multifibre sample = 10 x 5 cms (acetate + nylon+ cotton+ polyester+acrylic+

wool)

- 2 Garment sample +2 Multifibre Sample are overlapped.

- The 2 overlapped samples are dipped in the acidic and basic solution
respectively for 30 min.

- After 30 min, the samples are squeezed and are placed between the acrylic plates
and 5 kg wt. and put inside the oven for 4 hrs.

- Then the variation in the color due to acidic and basic solution is matched with
the actual fabric.
(xi) colour fastness to water:

- Same process is done for this test.

- But except the acidic and basic solution, Grade- 3 water (distilled water) is
used.

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(xii) pH measurement:

Done after the color fastness tests.

American Standard

- Sample size - 5.5mm/10gm

- Boiled in beaker at 90 – 92 degree C. Add 10 gms sample and leave it for 10

min.

- Leave for cooling.

- Remove the sample and put this water in the pH measuring container in
which electrode is inserted.

- The pH meter will show the pH of the fabric.

European Standard

- 3 samples are tested.

- Normality KCl or Grade 3 water is the medium which are taken in 3 conical
flasks in which 3 samples of 2gms each are dipped.

- They are placed on Textile lab shaker for 2 hrs (rpm30). It shakes the
solutions in which the samples are placed.

- Then, the solution is directly put in the pH meter which shows the pH.

(xiii) Attachment Strength Test: (trims)

- In this test, the strength of the attachments are checked. For example, strength

of shanks, rivets, buttons, loops, kids decoration items are checked.

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 - Universal Unit – kg (unit is dependent on buyer)

U.S standard = 16 lbs

European standard = 19N/10 sec

(xiv) Appearance after wash:

- This test is related to the appearance of the garment after washing process.

- The fabric is just observed properly and changes are noted down.

(xv) Dimensional Stability:

- Dimension of the fabric is measured before washing.

- The fabric piece is sent to the washing department.

- Again the dimension of the fabric is measured.

The changes in the dimensions of the fabric show how stable they are

PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT: OUR OBSERVATIONS

Lots of machines are there. So, direction or procedures for using the machine should be
pasted.

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2.5 SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING/CAD

In any export house, the sampling department shown in figure6.1 is one of the most important
departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-
ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling is done to see how
the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any
discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s specification. Merchandiser
procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details,
embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information
along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval
in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head. Sampling is the
product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so
as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the
production. The sample garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of
production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating
correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the
fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from
bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the
basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.

Sampling is basically the process of producing few garment in order to match the various
buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. as soon as any order is
received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the
product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the buyer.

When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or
changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which
are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made and approved
by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed over to the
production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is
going on.

In these stage, the company checked the feasibility of the garment whether it is affordable or
not and the company have the machineries to do the operations to make that particular style
of garment.

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Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be
faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.

This department makes the samples of DENIM (Jeans) and KNITS (T-shirts & Lingerie). But
the company only does bulk production of Denim. After getting knits approval from buyer,
the bulk productions of knits are done in other units.

Figure :-Layout of Sampling dept.

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 Figure: Process Flow Chart of Sampling Department

Marketing will send Tech pack to Sampling for

Sample making

Pattern development by using Optitex

Physical Sample indents from the merchant to

Planning team

Fabric Collected from stores by Sampling

Fabric Quality and If it is not ok

Quantity check as
per the Indent

Communicate to
If it is ok Merchant

Pattern, Sample indent and Fabric will be sent to Cutting

Cutting and fusing process

Direct Load Panel form (Ready or Block)

Sample Sub stores Printing, Embroidery, Sequencing

Collects trims from main stores (the Again print panels sent to
Labels, Threads, Accessories) and will cutting to check art work
be sent with cut Panels patterns, print placement

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 Washing if required

Finishing process as per buyers

requirement

On spot alteration in
concerned step
Internal QC Review
based on final Tech
Pack

Hand over packed samples to

merchant

Sample Sent to Buyer evaluation,

Through Merchant

Buyer
approval Not Approved

Approved
Buyer comments Review and
Fit approval remaking as per the requirement

Pattern grading for size PP Sample preparation and

set finalizing as per the buyer
comments

Marker preparation on
Consumption

Final Patterns, Marker copy will be

forwarded to particular units

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TYPES OF SAMPLES

 DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
 PROTO SAMPLE
 FIT SAMPLE
 WASH SAMPLE
 SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS)
 SEALER /PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
 SIZESET SAMPLE
 TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE
 PILOT RUN SAMPLE
 GARMENT PACKAGE TEST (GPT)
 SHIPMENT SAMPLE
 DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE –
o Sample before Proto Sample
o Measurements are checked in this sample

PROTO SAMPLE – The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This
sample is made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of identifying
the overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of the style. The garment is
produced in the base size (32, 30, 34) as asked by the merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are made for
proto sample one for

SMS (color wise) and other for Presentation sample.

FIT SAMPLE – Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size
and fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given by the buyer
is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also done on the substitute fabric as
proto sample. The main factors that are considered are:

A. Perfect style.

B. Quality.

C. Measurement.

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Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in each fit.

WASH SAMPLE – After wash a sample is send to the buyer then approval or comment
procedure is taken by them. Then according to comments of buyer changes are done.

SALES MAN SAMPLE – These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer
reaction to the various styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed
indifferent retail stores and based on the average reaction, the buyer places orders for bulk
production. At the factory the salesman samples are referred to as mini bulk.

SEALER SAMPLE OR PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE – Sealer sample is sent back

by the buyer after the approval of size set sample. Seal is attached on this sample and it is
maintained in the production department, finishing department and QA for the requirements
and the quality parameters. Once the sealer sample is received industry is not allowed to
make any changes in the garment and this sample should only be followed as the standard for
production.

SIZE SET SAMPLE – In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment.
If the fit sample is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and all sizes.

o Original trims and accessories are used.

o Four sets each of size are made.
o If not approved then again size set is made.

TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE – The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes
from the first bulk production. It is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to all
sizes and all colors. In the base size the sample produced should be double.

 One set to the buyer.

 One set as a counter with the merchant.
 IF NOT APPROVED, then again top sample is produced.
 IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment starts.

PILOT RUN SAMPLE- 25 pieces are cut in each color and each size. 5-5 pieces on
each size and each color are offered to the buyer’s QI’s.

SHIPMENT SAMPLE- Before the shipment buyer Q.A. picks up the carton randomly
and checks for the quality.

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Shipment can only happen after of the approval over shipment sample.

Role of Q.A in sampling department:

 Tech packs review.

 Pattern check against tech pack (construction, no. Of parts, seam allowance, grain
line.).
 Check print & embroidery, placement of color (according to tech pack).
 Check trims against tech pack. (Thread, label, trim fabric).
 He tells the stitching guidance to the supervisor against the tech pack.
 Review final spec. sheet.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample
sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the
details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc
they have used (if applicable). Ref no., Color, Fabric Composition, Description, Quantity,
Style no/ Size, Store In the sampling department, there are many sub divisions i.e.

 CAD Section which consists of Pattern making and grading, Marker making and
printing the pattern and cutting of that pattern.
 CUTTING Section where patterns are traced on the fabric and cut accordingly by
cutters.
 SEWING Section where the cut parts of the fabric are stitched and become a full
garment
 TRIMMING Section where the garments are trimmed after wash and trims are
attached to it.
 INSPECTION Area where the quality checkers are checked the garments. The
checking is done before wash and after wash also.

CAD SECTION

In this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer requirements.
From pattern making to printing, the company uses the CAD software. There are two types of
buyers –

 One who give the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed
information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details,
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 shrinkage % etc), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like
Levis send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block they pattern
master need not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of
the patterns and get the print out.
 Other type of buyers who give only the measurements and tech pack where they only
mentioned about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. These patterns are
called block pattern. For this type of patterns, the pattern masters have to make the
patterns by CAD software with the measurements the buyer given. And for these type
of buyer, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern masters.
According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns.
 Sometimes, some buyers gives wrong measurements, for that the company gives
some suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the
proposed tech pack or process given by the company.

PROCEDURE:

 First, the pattern masters get the pattern indent issued by the merchant where all the
specifications given about the patterns. Along with patterns, the masters get the tech
pack where all the measurements are given.
 Then according to the specification, they make the pattern (including notch mark,
darts etc) and add shrinkage as per the requirements on the CAD software.
 They do the grading of the patterns then.
 After that they send the patterns to the marker making departments. The marker
makers make the marker by placing the patterns in such a way so that the marker has
the optimum utilization of patterns.
 After that, the marker is sent for printing. Here in this section, the marker makers
gives the seam allowances and other details like GSM etc to the patterns and after
that it is printed by the plotter.
 After that, they verify the patterns and send the patterns along with the ready sample
to the buyer. If the buyer changes some part or want some alteration, the masters get
the sample request again by the merchant and according to the specification they
changes the patterns.

The CAD Software used for making patterns and markers are:

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A. GERBER TECHNOLOGY (ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software) – mother software
using it since 12 years. It is windows based software; satisfy their most demanding design
and production requirements. AccuMark provides seamless integration with Gerber’s
automated spreading, cutting and PLM systems for more effective work order management –
helping customer to improve efficiency and optimize results.

B. LECTRA CAD SOFTWARE more complicated than Gerber and it is dos based software.
At the crossroads of design and production, patterns made by Lectra drives brand consistency
in terms of fit and look.

C. TUKA TECH provides 2D as well as 3D pattern making and design technology. TUKA
cad has multi-tasking & Multi-user operation ability, built-in e-mail & Automatic data
maintenance. Also, it features Digitizing, First Pattern Design, Pattern Alterations, Auto
patterns, Grading, Style Definitions & Various other features. The company recently use the
trial version of TUKA 3D, from 2 months. Now they are thinking to implement it. The 3D
software has the automatic dummy facility which helps in see the fit and fall of the pattern by
inserting the pattern to the dummy.

GRADING: After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the process
of creating a range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up
(or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern.

MARKER MAKING: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for

sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. Marker making is the process of
determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of
sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over
variables and reduces time required in making markers. The efficiency of marker making in
the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists of different size of same style of
garment. For different type of appearance of fabric, they use different markers like solid
marker (one way, two way directions), stripes, checks, colors.

Each marker contains certain annotation like:-


Piece name

Size

Bundle Number

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 
Buyer

Work Order Number

Cut Number

PLOTTING: The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were
used in applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the output.
It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the maker
making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like GSM, style
no. etc on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there are two types of
plotter. One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the automatic cutter
plotters which prints the marker cut the patterns simultaneously which are used in cutting
section of sampling department. The patterns cut manually also.

Advantages of CAD-


Wastage reduction

Minimum time consumption

Increased accuracy

Reduction in labor cost

PROBLEMS FACED DURING USING OF THE SOFTWARE:

They faced some problems when a complicated style has come. For that the company makes
a knock off of the garment or style and check the feasibility. And if they faced software
problems they directly mailed to the software manufacturing company and that company
upgrades the software and solves the problems.

Manpower: 2 CAD managers, 11 pattern masters, 1 data operator, 1 coordinator, 3 trimmers

After printing the marker and cutting the patterns , the ready patterns are come to the cutting
section of sampling department. Here, the cutters check the measurements of the patterns and
match it with the sample indent. The fabrics in small amount are then issued by the storage as
per the requirement of sample indent given by the merchant. After that the fabrics are kept for
4 hours approximate for fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced
garments. After that the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and placed the pattern
on it. The length of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the
patterns of a single size of a particular style. The no of lay is depending upon the

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requirements of buyers. It can be vary from 1 to 20 no. of lays. 20 lays are basically made for
the salesman’s sampling. After spreading manually, they traced the pattern on that fabric and
cut accordingly by using straight knife and round knife. During the cutting, they also cut the
notch marks. After that the parts will go for sewing.

The output per day in cutting section is 40 – 50 garment parts / day.

In the cutting section, DENIM and KNITS (t-shirts) are cut and go for sewing.

Manpower: 3 Cutters, 4 pattern selector & fabric selector.

SEWING SECTION IN SAMPLING:

When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing process shown in figure6.4. For sewing the
modular system is using here. One worker is producing the full garment i.e. He/she is
attaching all parts of the garment and only for specialized technique there are other workers
to do that particular operation. One worker is producing average 2 – 3 garments per day. Total
output of sewing section is 70 – 100 garments / day (approx).

The numbers of sewing machine are: 40 [34 sewing machines + 6 specialized machines]

Loading plan:

This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the loading
plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and stitching is done.

STITCHING STEPS FOR PRODUCING DEMIN JEANS

Table: Stitching operations and the machines used for denim manufacturing in Arvind

STEPS MACHINES
Divide cut parts Manually
Front fly stitching, front rise 3 thread overlock
Back yoke stitching, back rise Feeder form DNLS
Back pockets hem DNLS overlock
Attaching the back pockets on the back panel SNLS
Pocket bag stitching ( Scoop pockets) DNLS overlock
Attaching facing to the bags 3 thread flat lock

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Front coin pocket attachment
Attaching back panel
Front rise (J – stitch) on the fly and one more
stitch on it
Double fly attachment (right side front
placement)
Button / Zipper placement on the fly
Front rise ( to get clean finish)
Inseam attachment
Side seam attachment
Side lock stitch
Side seam busted chain stitch
Bottom hem
Waistband attaching [waist band width = 1”
i.e. the width of the waistband panel is 2”]
Waist band loop
Buttonhole (kasa or keyhole), bar tack
After all the operation, the denims are then trimmed and sent to washing department for
washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After wash the
garments are directly come to the sampling department for further process. Manpower: 30
workers, 1 supervisor, 1 in-charge
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DNLS overlock
DNLS
SNLS
Manually
DNLS overlock (distance between two
needles is 1/8 ”)
FOA (DNLS) / 5 thread Overlock / DNLS
(distance between two needles is 1/8 ”)
3 thread overlock for open finish or 5 thread
overlock for close finish
DNLS (distance between two needles is
3/16”, 1/8 ”, ¼” according to the style )
Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10, width = ½” ,
3/8”
SNLS or Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10 – 8
Width= 3/8”, 5/8”, ½”, 7/8”, 1”, 2” according
to the style
Manually / specialized machine (automatic)
DNLS flat lock (distance between two
needles is 1/4 ”) or DNLS (distance between
two needles is 1/8 ” – 3/8”)
Specialized machines
FINISHING SECTION IN SAMPLING

After washing, the samples are coming to finishing section that is also called as trimming
sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets, shanks, buttons, tags
etc. are attached with the garments. After that, the garments are sent to the inspection area for
the quality checking.

Man power: 4 workers, 1 in-charge

INSPECTION AREA IN SAMPLING

After stitching, the garments are come to the inspection area for stitching quality checking of
the garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it with the sample
indent. If there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements, they send the garment
for remaking. If the sample is ok it is sent for washing.

After washing, the samples are coming to sampling department for trimming and after that it
is sent to inspection area for checking. The checkers check the small detailing about the
garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100% checking of the samples are done here.

Manpower: 6 quality checkers

The quality parameters they checked here:

 Grain line
 Sample indent information
 Shade
 Shrinkage %
 Measurements
 Tech pack
 The placement of the panels, Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tags etc.

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2.6 Production Process/Marker laying

Marker making

The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and size of
garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to
suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are
attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a
way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation.

After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order
in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this
step. Computer marking is done on specialized software. In computerized marking there is no
need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are
made instead to know how much fabric is required.

SOFTWARE - GGT- GERBER, LECTRA, ASTOR

Version- 8.5, 8.2
Roles Of Pattern Maker-


Pattern Design

Product Development

Marker Planning

Pattern Design


The department receives a pattern request form sampling department every time a
new pattern is to be made.

Every time there is a change or amendment in the pattern, the pattern version alphabet
is changed. For example from A to B.

There is a team that works exclusively on making templates for production.

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Digitizing


Digitizing is done on an electronic digitizing board by pasting pattern pcs on it.

The digitized patterns are amended, graded and used for making costing markers also
bulk production markers.

This is the pattern that is used for making templates also.

Amendments are then made on this digitized pattern and directly printed; this reduces
work of manual pattern maker as well as improved department efficiency. There is an
input menu on the board, which is used to digitize pattern pieces.

Product Development

Development of product is made according to requirement of buyer.

Example- Development of - Patches on pocket position, Yoke high, Pocket high,

Side Seam/stitch label.

Marker Planning


Marker planning is done to reduce wastage of the fabric as well as use the available fabric most
efficiently.


Auto marker is used on software REDTREE EAZY DESIGN.

There are 4 reasons by which marker planning may be increase or decrease:-


Comment of buyer.

Grain line.

Seam allowance

One way or two way direction map.

Parts jumbling

Use of cad for marking

In computerized marker making method, CAD (Computer Aided Design) system is used.
Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and related jobs
in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for pattern making, Grading
of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.
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At first by using CAD marker planning is done in the computer, then according to that plan a
printed marker paper comes out of the plotter. Plotter is used to print the pattern pieces on
marker paper.

Though the use of CAD is costly ,but the use of CAD is increasing in our country, because-
markers can be transferred via email, decreasing shipping costs and improving turnaround
time markers are archived on our system and readily available for reprinting; having the
ability to issue markers to one or more factories allows for more flexibility computerized
production markers optimize the layout of pattern pieces to minimize waste and maximize
profits markers can be used for computer cutting or hand cutting.

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2.7 Production process/ Fabric spreading
The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading
equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards. Spreading
requires a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also
must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting
often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations.

Spreading tables may also be very specialized for certain types of fabric and cutting
equipment. Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be extended
through slats to hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats.

Figure: Cutting Room

1. Spread height

 Spread height is a very important factor which defines the life of cutting blade.
 Number of plies per spread, depends on type of fabric and height of blade,
 Spread height is also a very important factor in cutting because objectives of
cutting are to get optimum number of pieces within minimum time and best
utilizing the cutter blade.
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 Points to be considered
 Shade sequence, the process to organizing all the shades in a fabric roll in a
specific sequence to avoid shade difference at the end of the process.
 Alignment of plies; the plies should be aligned properly both length and width
wise.
 Correct ply tension; this factor becomes very important in manual spreading
where tension depends on lay-man. It should be proper not so tight and not so
loose because in both cases final patterns after cutting will be disturbed.
 Fabric faults; fabric faults should be eliminated during spreading otherwise
patterns would suffer.
 Distortion of spread; during the manual cutting, the spread may be distorted due to
the base plate of the cutter so to avoid this glazed paper can be used.

Cutting equipment may be moved to a lay-up as another lay-up is prepared further down the
table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting surface. Air
flotation tables, when activated; allow easy movement of a lay-up onto an adjacent cutting
area. A layer of air between the table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction
and allows a lay-up to be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators.
Spreading tables with conveyor zed surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no
time is wasted.

DEFECTS:


Slack tension: lesser problem contains excess fabric in each ply. Cutting a slack
spread may create over sized pieces. It causes in accuracies in assembling and waste
fabric.

Ply alignment: accuracy with which fabric edges, both length and width are aligned
during spreading.

Static electricity: results from friction among materials and spreading equipment.
Fabrics from manufactured fibers may have static problems.

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Problems occurrence

 Absentees or man power issues.

 Less spreading tables due to which 10-20 min is wasted. And within this time 10-15
layers can be spread.
 Machine repairs, wastage of 2-3 days.
 Delay in Relaxation due to roll delay.

Improvements


Requirement of Extra spreading tables, by which delay in sequence operations can be
avoided

Requirement of On-Spot Machine repairs.

In time fabric roll has to be supplied, which helps in good relaxation & garment
quality.

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2.10 Production Process/ Fabric Cutting

Figure: Cutting Department

As the fabric is spread and the fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines
suitable for the type of the cloth. The most important and crucial process in the garment
industry is cutting process. Its fault cannot be tolerated and any mishap in cutting will result
in wastage of fabric .These can be band cutters having similar work method like that of band
saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and
down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either
blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.

Objective:

Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.

Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.

100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.

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Two methods of cutting

1. Manual cutting
2. Automatic cutting

Manual cutting is the type where we make marker and take a print through plotter which is
used then for cutting by laying that on the spread. Cutting instruments which are used for
manual cutting;

1. Straight knife
2. Band Knife

Automatic cutting is the type where we make marker but don use plotter rather this we
simply give command to our automatic cutting system which firstly do spreading and then
cutting. Cutting instruments used for automatic cutting are MORGAN TECHNICA SPA.

SOP in cutting section

Necessity

SO/PO file with Tech Pack, Fabric Shade band card, Shrinkage details,
Marker/Pattern Details, Trim Cards, Fabric test Reports, QA Specifications, Approved
Samples, Visual Quality Standards, PP meeting notes should be readily available in
the section.
Specified items like fabric defect standard, face side, combo, embroidery/ print
details, approved fusing standard etc are to be displayed in the section.

Relaxation Process

 Fabrics are to be relaxed as specified for crepe recovery.

 Fabric shall be unwound from rolls/bales and lay on a flat area in uniform
systematic folds. It is preferable to stager the folds and ply heights in the form of
folds shall not exceed 5 inches. Only a single roll shall be relaxed in one shelf and
care to be taken to avoid relaxation of another roll over and above the first one. No

87 | P a g e
 other item shall touch the lay neither any other item shall be kept on the lay, This is
because from preventing from normal relaxation.
 Relaxation history tags shall be attached to each and every roll that is relaxed.
History tag should identify SO/PO #, type of roll, length and width of roll, date and
starting time of relaxation, date and ending time of relaxation, the name of the buyer
from whom the PO is raised etc.
 Relaxation % shall be calculated by measuring before and after relaxation lengths of
the rolls/ bales and this shall be informed to concerned fabric staff to enable them to
compensate the fabric in case of any shortages during manufacturing. Each fabric
roll shall be tagged with a Relaxation Tag at the time of relaxing the fabric roll.

RELAXATION TAG

FABRIC TYPE: …………………………………………………………………………………..

SO#............................. PO#........................ STYLE: ………………………….

BUYER…………………………………………………………………………………………....

ROLL LENGTH………………………….ROLL WIDTH …………..……………………

RELAXATION START DATE…………………………TIME………..………….………

RELAXATION CLOSE DATE…………………………TIME………….………………..

RELAXATION %........................................

 Figure:AfterFormatallowingofRelaxationofrelaxation,tagusedinthecuttingrollroomisready for laying and spreading. Before lay

88 | P a g e
  Cutting and spreading, actual ending date and time shall be noted in the relaxation tag.

Figure: Auto Fabric Relaxation Machine

Figure:-Fabric Relaxation bag designed for better handling of fabric

Laying and Spreading process

 Fabric shall be laid and spread as per Lay Slip and the remaining End bits shall be
marked for Roll No, Shade, Cut No. and kept in an IDENTIFIED PLACE for END
BITS. During laying, QC shall monitor the spreading activity and he shall inspect the
lay for lay length, lay width, selvedge, Number of plies, Lay height, Leaning, Narrow
goods etc.; QC shall maintain the quality report on the spreading and laying activity.
 A minimum of 30 minutes for cotton and 90 minutes for stretch fabric in the spread
condition shall be allowed as lay relaxation before starting cutting
 However, in case of super stretch fabric, both the selvages shall be cut soon after the
completion of the Lay process.

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 2.10.1.4 PROCESS OF CUTTING PROCESS

After Laying and spreading Quality check, marker shall be laid on spread fabric before cutting. QC
shall inspect the marker for grain line, Marker Length in comparison to Lay Length, no. of parts,
Garments size, Marker matching, Notches etc.

 After verification of correctness of marker and its laying, the cutter that shall cut the spread
lay as per the Laid marker under the supervision of cut room manager.
 QC in cut room shall monitor the cutting and inspect the cut bundles with hard pattern for the
perfection. (Top, Bottom and middle plies). Cut parts shall be inspected for missed cut,
correctness of notches, frayed edges etc.
 If any RE-CUT of a cut part is needed, Re-cutter shall select the End bits kept separately with
proper identification and shall select the END BITS of the same roll and cut no from which
the defective part is cut.

Figure : Automatic cutting machine

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Figure : Manually cutting

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Cutting process flow

Figure: Process Flow Chart in Cutting Room

Plan for PPC

Order Copy

Taper
For size Document Cutting Receive size set Pattern
Release

Laying 24hrs Receive Fabric

As per Cut
Not
100%
Document Re Marker

Ok

Cutting Numbering
Re-work
Ok
Not Ok
Cut Panel
Re-work Fusing Inspection Embroidery/ Printing

Ok
Not Ok

Sorting

Not Ok
Cut Part Re-work/ Re Cut
Audit AQL

Ok

Issue to Sewing

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Quality process systems in cutting section

Figure: Process Flow chart of quality process in cutting room

PATTERN
RECEIVE
Check pattern & evaluate with
before wash spec

Check table marking based on

lay length
MONITORINGSPREADING

Spreading audit Marker placement

check & audit

MONITORINGCUTTING

Hard pattern check@ TOP, MIDDLE

& BOTTOM point & cut audit
NUMBERING

MONITORING

100% panel check

Fail
pass

For fusing Bundling

Fusing audit For re-cut
RANDOMCHECK

Return Return

Store in racks ISSUE TO SEWING LINE

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Bundling

After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in stack form
is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code
number on each pattern.

Ticketing

Figure : Ticketing done in cutting room

Cut Part Auditing

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece
for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that are not within
the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces
are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and
ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with
an alteration sticker and passed on. This is spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

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There are some common cutting defects. They are:

 Miss notch
 Selvedge
 Uneven cut
 Miss cut
 Over notch
 Shape off
 Rugged cut

Man power

 Panel checking (5 people)

 Panel marker (4 people)

Figure : Band Knife

Sorting & Bundling

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-
to-bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the
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process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence
identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun.
The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means
to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.

Man Power


Sorting (8 people)

Helpers (8 people)

Bundle movers (2 people)

Fusing Section

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from
the bundle. The fusing material is cut according to the size of the components to be fused.
The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two paper sheets and the
pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure
fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. Fabric is used to the fusing
layer at the temperature of 700 C. fusing machine has two rollers. First roller is heated 710 C
and back roller at 700 C. the fabric is passed through the machine and fabric get fused. The
pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.

Man power: Fusing (8 people)

Piping (2 people)

Figure: Paper/ Fabric waste bins

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Embroidery

The capacity of this machine is 18 pieces at once. For embroidery, they take a panel of the
style where the embroidery needed, basically in back pockets. Then they attach the panel to
the frame. Frame size may vary from 9 to 45 sizes (9, 15, 18, 21, 45 sizes) as per the buyer’s
requirements.

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for

Embroidery as stated in the production process. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery,
which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same
size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.

Man Power: 2 people

Figure : Embroidery Machine

Power Consumption

On the floor: 20 fans, 120 lights

CAD section: 2 lights, 1 air condition, 4 computers, 1 plotter, 1 photocopy machine

Embroidery: 22 lights, 4 fans, 1 computer

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Findings

 As the automatic spreading machine is not in use, it creates problems for auto cutting
machine as the markers don’t spread lays equally along the selvedge and the
production is also less.
 There should be another operator who knows to operate the auto spreading machine.
 Mobile rack is there, but not in use.
 Cut parts are not stored according to the shade/shrinkage/width wise.
 Shade wise ratio cutting is not done.

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2.9 Production process/Sewing Section

After the fabric is cut in the cutting department it is sorted, bundled and send for sewing.
Sewing of different styles of denim according to the order approval is done for each brand in
different line. There are 14 such lines having approximately 60 machines in one line. The
needles are changed every 2 hours during the production time by the mechanic. Push and pull
systems are used depending on the styles running in the line. The working time provided to
the operators in from 9-5.30 with a lunch break of about 20 minutes. The environment of the
stitching floor is very well maintained with sufficient lights for proper visibility, fans to
provide a good environment and also the chairs provided to the operators are ergonomically
good. In many places lean tools have also been followed such as poka yoke on the sewing
machines for error proofing, 5S though there is a scope for standardising and sustaining the
process.

OBJECTIVE

To produce the garment by sewing together the various pattern pieces of that style in least
possible time and least possible defects.

The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of achieving strength
and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the
application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of
satisfactorily sewn seams.

It is basically divided into 14 lines, one of which is dedicated to the training purpose and
others are dedicated for the production.

In between there are inspection tables, one after back section another one after front
section , next after waistband is stitched and last is the end of line checking. All of them
are doing 100 % inspection as the operators are new and they are not consistent in quality
and thus increasing labour cost as well as throughput time of the garment.

Each line has a supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line
himself, these are also not trained properly and thus are not confident on implementing
new suggestion in Layout or man power planning.

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No floaters are kept for the handling of absenteeism. If absenteeism is there then people
from other lines are taken or people from the training line are taken.

The sewing process at the Mysore road plant is fully following the Progressive Bundle
System.

Description about line:

Denim floor consists of 14 sewing lines shown in figure 8.2 with 40-50 workstations
(sewing machines) in each line and in each line there are three check-points. Most
machines are from VI.BE.MAC, Italy and they have automated operations like Back
pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach and
bottom hemming.

The machines are arranged in straight line; hence progressive bundle system is
working.
There are two line are setup parallel to form a line.
There are two inline check-points (one check-point is put when the front is
complete and the other is put when the back is complete) and one end-line, when
the front and back are joined and the garment is complete.

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Figure: Sewing Floor

Figure: Production Process Flow

Supervisor Sample preparation

Fail
Sample
Inspection

Pass

Batch PPM

Batch Loading

Batch Setting

Pilot run

Bulk production

Inline audit

End line audit Handover garments to finishing

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The different types of machines used are:

1. Bar tack machine (Brother)

2. Bottom hem machine (Juki)
3. Button hole machine (Brother)
a. Key hole
b. Straight hole( Electronic)
4. Button stitch machine( Brother)
5. Chain stitch machine (Juki, Kansai special)
a. 1 needle
b. 2 needle
c. 3 needle
6. Cover stitch machine (kansai special, pegausus)
7. Decorative machine (VIBEMAC)
8. Feed off arm machine (Juki, SIPAMI, VIBEMAC)
9. Flat lock machine (PEGASUS)
10. J-stitch machine (VIBEMAC)
11. Label attach (VIBEMAC)
12. Lock stitch machine (Brother, Gemsy, Highlead, Juki, Sunstar, VIBEMAC, SIPAMI)
a. 1 needle
b. 2 needle
i. Fixed needle Bar
ii. Programmable
iii. Scoop pocket attach
iv. Split needle bar UBT
13. Loop attach machine ( SIPAMI, VIBEMAC, KANSAI Special)
14. Multi needle chain stitch machine (KANSAI special)
15. Needle detector (HASHIMA)
16. Over lock machine (JUKI, SIRUBA, VIBEMAC, PEGASUS)
a. 3 Thread
b. 4 Thread
c. 4 Thread- variable to feed
d. 5 Thread
e. With puller feed

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 17. Pocket creasing machine (VIBEMAC)
18. Pocket hemmer (VIBEMAC)
19. Pocket setter(VIBEMAC)
20. Post bed lockstitch machine (JUKI)
21. Snap attach machine (NGAI SHING, NM NORMER)
22. Waistband attach machine (VIBEMAC, KANSAI special)
a. With skit and cut

Figure: Sewing Line Layout

Each line of the sewing shown in figure has got various operational breakdowns which
consist of workstations, checking tables, various sewing machines and auditing tables.

CAPACITY DETAILS OF SEWING

Table: Capacity of sewing room

Sl. No. ITEM DETAILS

1 NO.OF.SEWING LINE 13
2 TYPE OF PRODUCTION SYSTEM STRAIGHT LINE / PROGRESSIVE
BUNDLE SYSTEM
3 NO.OF.MACHINES PER LINE 40-48
4 NO.ON.OPERATORS/LINE 40-45
5 TOTAL .NO.OF.OPERATORS 625
6 AVERAGE PRODUCTION /DAY 8300

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7 EFFICIENCY OF THE FACTORY 40-45%
8 NO.OF.SUPERVISORS 14
9 NO.OF.PRODUCTION MANAGER 2

Operation breakdown

Table : Operation Breakdown with machine details

Sl. No. OPERATION MACHINE WORK STATION

BACK
1 HEM BACK PKT MOUTH SNLS 1
2 DECO ST ON BK PKT SNLS 1
3 ATTACH BACK POCKET SNLS 2
4 TOP ST ON BACK POCKET SNLS 2
5 ATTACH BACKYOKE 5T O/L 1
6 TOP ST ON BACKYOKE FOA 1
7 ATTACH BACKRISE 5T O/L 1
8 TOP ST ON BACKRISE FOA 1
9 BARTACK ON BACK BT BROTHER 1
SCOOP PKT
10 HEM COIN PKT DNLS 1
11 ATTACH COIN PKT DNSB 1
12 CLOSE PKT BAG 5T O/L 2
FRONT
13 SERGE FRT FLY & FRT RISE 3T O/L 1
14 E/S ON LEFT FLT SNLS 1
15 SEW J’’ STITCH DNLS 1
16 ATTACH FRONT RISE DNSL 1
17 ATT PKTBAG TO SCOOP SNLS 1
18 T/S ON SCOOP PKT DNLS 2
19 LOCK PKT BAG SNEC 1
ASSEMBLY
20 ATTACH INSEAM 5T O/L 2
21 TOP ST ON INSEAM SNCS 2

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 22 ATTACH SIDE SEAM 5T O/L 2
23 SEW CORD STITCH DNLS 2
24 BOTTOM HEM JUKI BTM 1
25 ATTACH LABEL SNLS 1
26 ATTACH ELASTIC END SNLS 1
27 ATT W/B PNLS ENDS SNLS 1
28 STAY ST ON W/B SNEC 2
29 CLOSE W/B DNCS 2
30 JOINT & PREPARE LOOPS SNLS 1
31 LOOP ATTACH BT BROTHER 2
32 W/B END BACK SNLS 1
TOTAL 43

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Sewing Standard Operation Procedure

Get cut panels in

bundles from
cutting dept.

Issue the bundles

to sewing dept.

Set the line

(Operation
Breakdown)

Start Sewing

Operations for
Back

Set an in line Return for

Not Ok
inspection Rework at the
point for back respective
Workstation

Checked Ok
Operations for
Front

Return for
Set an in line Not Ok
Rework at the
inspection respective
point for Front Workstation

Checked Ok
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 Join Front and
back, Waistband
attachment

Return for
Not Ok Rework at the
Final (Revocable)
respective
Inspection
Workstation

Not Ok
(Irrevocable) Reject the
Checked
Ok Garment

Send to Washing
Dept.

End

107 | P a g e
LABELLING

It is very important that consumers be given accurate information on how to take care of their
garments so they can make informed purchase decisions concerning the care characteristics
of competing products and the product damage caused by the improper cleaning procedures
can be avoided by consumers and cleaners alike.

 Whether the item should be washed or dry cleaned

 Whether the item is colour fast or should be washed separately
 Whether it should be washed by hand or machine
 Whether the item is permanent press or needs ironing
 Whether it can be washed in hot water
 The temperature setting for the iron : hot , warm, or cold
 The type of bleach to use, whether chlorine or no chlorine.
 Whether the item will shrink and how much.

Care instructions provided to consumers carry an implied guarantee that in all respects a
garment will stand up under the conditions of laundering or dry-cleaning that are
specified. This implied guarantee covers all component materials: their colourfastness,
appearance, dimensional stability, workmanship that is, the seams will not open up or the
garment loses its shape and so on. It also carries the style number of the particular brand
or garment and size of the garment.

Figure: Wash Care Label Standards Followed

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MACHINE TYPE AND NEEDLES USED IN SEWING

Table :Sewing machine and needle types used

M/C TYPE NEEDLE TYPE SIZE

Edge Cutter M/C DBx1 14,16,18
Single + Double Needle + Kaj DPx5 11,14,16,18,21
Over Lock M/c DCx1 14,16,18,21
Flat Lock + FOA + Chain Lock UYx128 / TV x3 14,16,18,19,20,21
Pocket Setter + Deco M/c UYx128/ TV x3 14,16,18,19,20,21
MR
Waist Band TVx5 14,16,18,21
Kansai W/B Pocket Hem DVx57 14,16,18,21
Bar tack + Button + Welt Pckt DPx17 14,16,18,21
Bottom Hemming UO180GS 14,16,18,21
keyhole kaja DOx558 14,16,18
loop setter m/c (MR) DPx5 4.0, 4.5
pocket setting m/c (MR) TVx3 4.5, 5.0
Saddle stitch CP x 12 21

Reports:

There are various types of files and records maintained in the sewing section at different
stages. They are discussed below:

 Line Balancing File

 Hourly Production per Operator
 Incoming Bundles
 Hourly Production Line wise
 Daily Production Line wise
 Production status (Style wise)
 Production and Attendance Details File
 Daily Factory Status Report (DFSR)

Findings/Problems

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 2. No Systematic machine sequence.
3. Regular Machine problems.
4. Cutting no feeding, due to which next operation is stopped.
5. Trims delay.
6. Electrical problem.
7. Absentees.
8. Others – delay from embroidery in the pocket section.
9. Pocket decoration thread breakages due to low quality.
10. Back pocket attach – Needle problem.
11. Pocket special machine- Stopped due to no feeding and facing mark.
12. Frequent Operators change.
13. Top edge cutter – Q placement.
14. In FOA- Skip, thread cutter, holder problem.
15. In double needle – Trimming problem, thread breakage due to time setting not
proper.
16. Minimum of 3 idle machines are placed in each sewing line, which should be
placed in store.
Suggestions:
 Alternate solutions to regular Machine problems.
 Systematic machine sequence should be maintained.
 Feeding should not be delayed.
 Trims to be supplies at necessary time.
 Alternate solutions for electrical problem.
 In advance garment to be supplied from the embroidery section.
 Pocket decoration thread should be of good quality.
 In double needle machine proper time setting has to be done.
 Idle machines placed in sewing line should be placed in store.

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2.10 Production Process/ Industrial Engineering

The IE department plays one of the key roles in the garment industry. The main objective is
to:


Analyse the sample/technical pack

Line arrangement

The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study, time study and
allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is measured by method study and work
measurement. Time study is used for all the planning and control systems.

Production target= 480 min/ standard time

Operation bulletin:

It is a format prepared by IE department, which gives information about type of machines,

attachments, total no. of operations, time taken for each operation, total time taken to make a
garment and efficiency of style.

Batch setting:

Batch setting is the process of machines with suitable folders, needle and with other setting to
carry out operation in sequence according to operation bulletin into various section. It is to
set the operator to achieve desired standards and various reference samples are made to make
sure that desired quality can be achieved.

Roles & responsibilities:

 Preparing the Operation Bulletin

 Making the Layouts with best Material movement / Flow
 Machinery arrangement for the Line
 Batch setting
 Batch setting check list
 Line Balancing
 GSD method implementation
 Time study

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  Motion study
 Costing
 Make suggestions on Constructions changes & Appearance
 Daily MIS
 Process / Method improvement
 Method auditing
 Performance evaluation of the Lines
 Operator Skill matrix
 Eliminating Non value added things along with Plant Manager
 Identify and reduce the Wastage % on Trims like Threads along with the Plant
Manager

Standard minute value

There are two SMV’s provided for a style in Arvind:

 Costing SMV
 Actual SMV

Actual SMV:

The actual SMV is arrived based on actual operation bulletin. Here the automatic pocket
creaser and Pocket setter is considered wherever possible. The batch Efficiency or
Performance is calculated based on the Machine SMV’s, as per actual SMV not the costing
SMV.

Standard allowed minutes:

The SAM is calculated by the formula:

SAM= single sewing cycle*20% personal fatigue*15% m/c delay*2%contingency allowance

Method of costing

When tech pack comes to merchant, he fixes the same and sends it to IE department. IED
does the feasibility analysis called as Cut and Make charges, which means whether a
particular order can be accomplished in the factory or not.

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There are number of tools and techniques which are used in by industrial engineers to
establish an effective production system in the company. Most of the job profile falls under
following list.

 Knowledge about various sewing production systems.

 Knowledge of all types of Sewing machine necessary for the company
 Time study (Cycle timing)
 Motion analysis of the operations
 Operation break down
 Preparation of Operation Bulletin
 SAM Calculation
 M/C Layout and Work station layout
 Setting up new line for a particular style
 Production estimation of a line
 Work Sampling
 WIP Control
 Line Balancing
 Capacity study
 Cost estimation of a garment
 Developing and Maintaining Skill Matrix
 Calculating Thread Consumption
 Work aids, Guide and Attachment
 Performance rating

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2.11 Production process/ Denim Washing

OBJECTIVE

To give different effects to the garments by various wet and dry processes as well as to clean
the garments.

Washing department plays an important role in the garment Industry. It gives a special effect
and good appearance to the garment because of washing price of the garment differs. There
are different types of washing.

The washing section head receives the recipe and desired finish in the garment from the
merchandiser who gets this specification from the buyer. According to the wash recipe, the
washing section prepares 3-5 samples and sent to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the
samples. After buyer approves the sample, a lot is washed (bulk washing). 2 samples out of
the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for approval. Once it is passed the bulk washing starts
for the entire style production (same recipe as made by the washing). When the garments are
received it is checked if the garment is soft or hard. If the fabric is soft then the garment is
just washed with softeners. If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper wash
cycle. The wash cycle starts with the process of de-sizing this is the process of removal of
starch from the garment. The starch makes the garment stiff

Total area - 59,000 sq. Feet. (Dry Process + Wet Process)

Washing capacity -16, 50,000 per month

Washing mainly can be categorized into:

1. Wet Processing

2. Dry Processing

Both of these processes are at two separate areas and comprises of various sub processes.

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Standard Operation Procedure of Washing

Figure shows the S.O.P of the washing section

WASHING

DRY PROCESS WET PROCESS

LASER PP SPRAY

HANDSANDING SEMI WASH

SANDBLASTING GRINDING

CRINKLING FINAL WASH

RESIN OZONE

CURING DISPATCH

SEMI WASHES a) Enzyme Wash b) Bleach Wash

c) Stone Wash d) Sponge Wash

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 Figure:- Layout Of Dry process (Washing Dept)

Various processes in the denim washing

Table : Various Denim Washing Process

Process Method Process Method

Basting Laser treatment Sponge wash Loading : Manual

Machinery
Hand sanding Manual Hydro extractor Loading : Manual
Machinery
Resin : Manual Grinding Man &Machinery
Net : Manual Final wash Loading : Manual
Machinery
3D : Manual & Laser Dry Loading : Manual
treatment Machinery
Semi wash Loading : Manual Ozone Loading : Manual
Machinery Machinery

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Categories of denim washing

Dry or mechanical process

a. Whiskering,/Chevron: It is nothing but the worn out lines / impression

generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs &
pattern available. This is primarily done by hand with sharp edge emery paper
to simulate years of wear within minutes. These operations are done in the
width directions hence it appears intense than hand sand.

Figure 2 : Whiskering process

b. Hand Sanding: It is the first and most delicate step. Hand sanders use sand
paper material to lightly shave off layers the indigo dye from the jean. It can
be done to any part of the jeans. It is generally done on rigid form of garments.
Emery paper is used to scrape the garments in particular placement and
design. Scraping is done on the inflated rubber balloons for better effect. Hand
sanding is started from the most intense part and feathering out on less intense
part gradually. The operation here is done in length direction.

Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery
paper comes in different number generally starts from 40 till 600 and above, higher the
number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper.

In garment industry from 180, 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely
used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. The most
important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity
need. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look
natural & not artificial.

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Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical it’s
up to operator’s convenience), even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand
pressure should be uniform in order to get better results.

Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part
gradually. One garment must by do by one operator only to have balance intensity on both the
legs.

Figure 3 : Manual Scrapping

Figure: SMV of Hand scrapping

c. Grinding: It is a technique to give the vintage distressed look. In order to

achieve the damage, edge grinding and surface grinding different techniques

118 | P a g e
 are used. Destruction is an art in which the denim is made look unique. It is
done cutting the warp yarns using knife and keeping the weft yarns as it is to
show the white thread.
d. Tacking: Tacking is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with
the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy
contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front
pocket corners etc. after completing wash cycle, it must be removed from
garment before making softening

Figure : Tacking

e. Resin treatments: .This is given to denim garment for the purpose of making
the denim fabric stiff so that the crinkles (3d effect) can be formed
prominently. There are 3 stages in resin spraying:
i. Preparation of the chemical
ii. Application of the chemical
iii. Cross linking of the chemical

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 From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require calculating the
SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost same.
This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the
operator

Figure : Crinkling

f. Netting: In this process the denim jeans is stuffed into a netted bag using the
netting machine and then the bag with the denim jeans is washed in the
washing machine with the required specifications.

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Figure : Netting

g. Crinkling and curing: For high quality 3D crunching / whiskers shown in

figure10.7, the two most important criteria are temperature and control of
cycle. Presses should be equipped with high heat, cast aluminium heads or
with supplementary electrical heaters to give a processing temperature of
approximately 150 – 180 degree centigrade. This temperature is crucial as it
starts the curing process and controls the effects. This process consists of
passing the infra-red light on to the jeans for 6 mins. The jeans produced by
this process is dependent upon the wavelength of light .normally 2.4m will be
suitable for this process .the garment is put in a mannequin which is hung
vertically and the mannequin will be revolving around its own.

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Table : SMV of Crinkling and Curing

If one person makes crinkling then it will takes almost 333 sec for a particular
style. In this process two activities are variable no. Of crinkle and curing time and
rest is almost same .By measuring these two time we can calculate SMV for a
particular style. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered
allowance and rating of the operator.

Chemical or Wet Process

Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to
provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not
washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the
fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed
denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of
the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many
feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

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 h. Grinding: It is the process of rupturing the surface of the denim to give it a
torn and rash look. There is a special tool called grinding pencil used for the
grinding. On the front end there is a grinded stone (shown in figure10.10)
rotating in normal rpm, hence when in touch with the surface of the fabric,
gives it a torn effect.
i. PP Spray: This process is given to the garment when the garment is in the dry
stage. This is given to denim garment for the purpose of blocking the indigo.
There are 3 stages in PP spray:
i. Preparation of the chemical
ii. Application of the chemical
iii. Cross linking of the chemical

From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require to calculate the
SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost same.
This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the
operator.

j. Semi Wash: There are two types of semi washing in wet process:
I. Mechanical wash
A. Stone wash
B. Micro sanding
II. Chemical wash
A. Denim bleaching
B. Enzyme wash
C. Acid wash

I. Mechanical wash: These washes are done mechanically with the help of the machines
and an external agent is required to give the desired effect without getting dissolved in the
process.

A.)Stone wash

In the process of stone washing shown in figure10.12, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large
washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.
Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones
multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment .Pumice

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stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans
like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

Figure 4 : Process Flow chart of washing

Selection of stone

Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular end
product. It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy
weight fabrics only. Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more
delicate items. Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1 .It depends on the degree of abrasion needed
to achieve the desired result. Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or
washed down the drain.

Problems caused by stones:

1- Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and

machine to stone abrasion.
2- Increase in labour to remove dust from finished garments.
3- Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
4- Back staining and re deposition.

Back staining or Re-deposition: The dye removed from denim material after the treatment
with cellulose or by a conventional washing process may cause "back staining or "re

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deposition”. Decolouration of blue threads and blue coloration of white threads, resulting in
less contrast between blue and white threads.

Remedy of back staining:

 Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle.

 Intermediate replacement of wash liquor
 Using alkaline detergent like sodium per borate with optical brightener as after wash.

Limitations of stone washing: Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome
of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much
abrasion. The process is non-selective. Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing
machines get abraded. This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and
increases production costs. Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the
garment grayish in color and rough too. Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash. Stone may
lead the harm to the machine parts.

B.)Micro sanding

In this fabric treatment process, a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal arrangement, either
wrapped with an abrasive paper or chemically coated with an abrasive, are used to create a
soft, suede hand. The denim is pulled over the face of the sand rollers creating a raised
surface finishing. Some color reduction is experienced.

II. Chemical Wash

Chemical wash is the type of wash in which a chemical, reducing agent, coloring agent or
any of the solvent is mixed with the water to get the desired effect on the denim

A.)Denim bleaching

In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is
added during the washing with or without stone addition.

Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor
quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with short
treatment time. Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately

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antichlor or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully
sorted before processing for color uniformity.

B.)Enzyme wash

It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes that eat
away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the enzymes can be
stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final
rinsing and softening cycle. The effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are

 Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable.
 Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
 Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion
to garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes. Garment load size of the machine
is 35-40 jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded

Types of enzyme are:

1. neutral enzyme
2. acid enzyme
3. cold wash

In neutral enzyme process we use denim ax PB. And this process is carried out at 55 degree
and maintained at a ph of 7.

In acid enzyme process we use enzyme called Biotouch. And temperature 55 degree at PH
4.5

In cold enzymatic process we use enzyme called Airocell and this process is carried out at
room temperature up to 10 min for 2 hours depending upon the characteristics of fabrics.

C.)Acid wash

(Marble/ Moon Wash/ Snow Wash)- This finish gives indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The
process is achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create
contrast.

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D.)Sponge wash

Fabric is loaded into machine with 14 liter of water and 600-800 gram of the potassium
paramagnet soaked in foam for at least 10-15min. When the fabric is rotated with sponge then
it randomly touch the garment ultimately after final washing it will give a faded effect.

4. Hydro extractor: 80-100 pieces are loaded in a high rotating machine shown in
figure10.16 for 4-6 min .due to centrifugal force water is extracted from the garment
so that it might take less time while drying.
Total machine =5
Capacity =8-100
Man power =2/machine and two helper.

Table : Time taken for hydro extraction

RECOMMENDATION:

Machine runs on an average 5min. During running time both the operator are doing nothing
except standing near the machine. One complete cycle takes around 10 min i.e. in one hour
30 min they are idle and in one shift 240 min means 50 % time they are idle. Men operator to
be employed. They can be asked to bring the trolley during idle time from final wash as final
wash operator remains busy and have to handle 3-4 machines.

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5. Final washing

Final washing involves the last wash of the garment which removes all the chemicals left and
also used as a softener to make the fabric feel soft. This process is done in big washing
machines.

6. Drying

This is the last process of washing in which the drying of the garment takes place with the
warm air blown in the machines

Special Cases of Wet Process

1. Ozone wash

This wash is done by oxidizing the denim jeans so that it could get the used look and faces no
further oxidization.

2. Puncture Patches

These puncture patches are stickered on the back side of the denim on the place where the
torn area is present so that skin is not visible and also add an effect to the denim jeans.

Methods of Washing Process

There are generally various ways of washing according to the demand of various buyers but
generally the following two methods are most active in denim washing.

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Figure : Various methods of washing

Machine Details of wet process:

Table : Machine Details of wet process

S No. NAME OF THE MACHINE NO.OF MACHINE MANUFACTURER

1 WASHING 45 TONNELLO,
DENIS,TOLKAR
2 DRYER 24 RAMSON,STALWART
,TRIVENETA
3 HYDROEXTRACTOR 6 BIGMAC

Machine details of dry process:

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Table : Machine Details of dry process

S. NO. NAME OF THE MACHINE NO.OF MACHINE MANUFACTURER

1 CURING OVEN 2 RAMSON
2 CRINKLING MACHINE 14 RAMSON
3 BENCH GRINDING 2 RAMSON
4 TACKING MACHINE 6 RAMSON
5 IR CURING MACHINE 12 IR CURE, GEM
6 3D BOHIMA 1 IR CURE
7 BRUSHING ROBOT 1 IR CURE
8 JACKET ROBOT 10 IR CURE
9 LASER MAKING 6 IR CURE
10 SPRAY BOOTH 4 VIJAY & RAMSON

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3.0 Production process/Finishing Section

After the garment is stitched and washed as per the prescribed techniques it is sent to the
finishing department. Where the initial pocket cleaning, loop trimming is done then after
initial checking alteration is done if required. After this the button marking, metal trim
attachments are attached. Then, the final checking is done where the measurements are
checked, shade is checked. If there is a requirement then spot washing is done to the
garments that require it. Then tag and sticker attachment is done after which it is sent to the
packing section.

Figure : Process flow chart in finishing section

End line Audit

Ironing

Measurement Audit

Folding

Tagging

Poly packing

Kanban Re screen
Audit

Metal Detection

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 Cartoning

FSA Re screen
Audit

Scanning

100% Carton Audit

C-TPAT

Final Audit by buyer QA/

Nominated QA

Final Carton Audit

Dispatch

MANPOWER

Checkers/ironers/packers = 100

Supervisors=3

Total floor area of finishing department

9355 square feet

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Table : Machine Details in finishing department

Table : Capacity Details of Finishing Department

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FINISHING SUGGESTIONS

THREAD TRIMMING

 The main cause for recurring defect is tangled untrimmed thread.

 According to time study, the time required to trim these thread is around 2 minutes.
 Even though initial trimming is done, processes followed after involves trimming
again.
 If the trimming section function properly after sewing i.e. before it goes for washing,
the trimming in the finishing department can be avoided.
 So, after washing these garments can be directly loaded to initial checking after
pocket cleaning.
 In this way, the SMV can be reduced which will enhance productivity.

GARMENT DEFECTS

 If we follow the current layout, the defected pieces can be segregated in the
trimming section rather than following further processes.
 For eg: If a garment is beyond alteration it can be segregated in the trimming
station itself.
 Also the common recurring defects can be segregated in the trimming station
itself. For e.g.: The troughs in which the defected pieces are put on can be divided
into two or three like Over lock, SNLS, Bar tack defects rather than mixing it all
together and segregating it with the help of additional helper.

1. End line audit:-

The details of the garments loaded to the finishing section shall be recorded in the Finishing
Kanban register by the finishing supervisor. End line audit shall be done as per the process
mentioned in the PPE folder; non-conforming garments shall be kept at an identified place.
Non-conforming garments shall be reviewed and necessary action shall be taken on the same
hour by the supervisor after consulting the QC.

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2. Ironing:-

Garment ironing shall be done as per the instruction In the PPE folder by the ironer. After
ironing, critical parts measurement shall be checked against pattern by the checker. If the
garment found out of measurement same shall be kept at an identified place for further
action. Passed garments shall be forwarded to the next process. Necessary action shall be
taken on non-conforming garments by the finishing supervisor in consultation with the QC.
Ironer wise production shall be monitored through the operator wise hourly production status
report and Ironing hourly production report.

3. Measurement Audit:-

Measurement of key points shall be done for all garments (100%) against the approved
specification displayed in the work station as well as in the PPE folder by the checker. Non-
conforming garments shall be reviewed and necessary action shall be taken on the same hour
by the QC.

4. Folding:-

Folding shall be done as per the buyer requirement by using the folding pattern given by the
supervisor/in-charge. Ironers shall be trained on folding method. Buyer wise folding method
shall display at the workstation for reference at times. The same is again cross checked by the
finishing supervisor.

5. Tagging:-

Based on Kanban plan, feeding helper shall physically collect the packing trims from sub
stores in a carry bag against a DC. Each trim shall be kept in different pouch in order to avoid
any mix-up/misplacement. The collected packing trims shall be issued to packing helper.

Size wise price tags shall be kept in the tag box and size strips shall be kept in the slit stand.
Tagging shall be done as per the standard displayed or as per buyer specific requirements, as
per the work instruction mentioned in the PPE folder. This is done by the packing helper.

6. Poly packing:-

Garments shall be segregated size vice. In case of ratio packing garments shall be arranged as
per the ratio displayed. Size wise segregated garments shall be put in the poly bag as per the

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standard by the packing helper. Check list shall be used to ensure accuracy of size wise
segregation.

7. Kanban Audit:-

Kanban auditor shall conduct the audit as per the micro cut plan and the PPE folder. If the lot
is passed in the audit, the garments shall be sent to CTPAT area (White Kanban) or Hold
Area/Ware-House (Pink Kanban) .Each Kanban shall be sealed on receipt of goods with the
seal given for each storage locations (CTPAT / Hold Area / Ware-House) .If the garments are
packed in carton in the exact ratio as required, the goods shall be sent to CTPAT but if the
garments are not as per ratio and cannot be packed in carton, it shall be sent to Hold Area and
are packed once the complete ratio is obtained .If the garments have any process viz.
washing, embroidery, printing, bead work etc. in garment stage, it shall be sent to Ware-
House and are finished back after processing is done Finishing in-charge shall sign off the
Kanban sticker. One sticker shall be pasted to Kanban register and 2nd sticker shall be
forwarded to cut panels’ supermarket to issue the cuttings(4th cutting).If the lot is failed, the
garments shall be rescreened and reoffered for audit .No failed Kanban can be sent to
CTPAT / Hold Area / Ware-House .

8. Metal detection:-

Every garment shall be passed through metal detection machine to detect the metal item if
any in the garment .Before starting the operation, machine shall be calibrated and metal
detection shall be done .Metal detection details shall be recorded hourly metal detection
report. In case if any metals found during inspection, details shall be recorded in metal
contamination log.

9. Cartoning:-

Size wise segregated garments shall be put in the carton box as per P.O and details shall be
recorded in ratio/solid packing process check sheet .Packing shall be done as per the work
instruction. All the cartons being received in CTPAT Area / Ware-House / Hold Area shall be
updated in Carton Tracker. The packing in-charge / supervisor shall be responsible for the
accountability of the pieces sent to CTPAT Area / Ware-House / Hold Area

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10. FSA audit:-

The packed cartons shall be offered for FSA audit. If the consignment fails in audit, shall be
re-screened and re audited on the same day. The audit passed carton shall be forwarded to
Scanning area. Daily offered quantity for audit shall be recorded in the register by packing
supervisor.

11. Scanning:-

The price tag on each and every garment shall be scanned using scanning machine. After
scanning the bar code sticker shall be printed and pasted on poly-cover of the garment.
Before offering for final audit, scanning summary shall be printed by the auditor.

12.100% Carton audit:-

Scanned carton shall be offered to carton auditor for packing accuracy audit by the packing
supervisor. In case if quantity offered fail in the audit, entire quantity shall rescreened to
rectify the defect and shall be offered for audit. If the audit is passed, the auditor shall stamp
on the carton at carton sticker placement area and sign off as confirmation of packing
accuracy. The carton sticker shall be pasted on the stamped area of the carton. If the auditor
stamp is not there on the carton, same shall be audited before pasting the sticker. Packed%
shall be monitored through the register by the finishing supervisor. Audited cartons shall be
forwarded to C-TPAT area.

13. Storage of carton at C-TPAT area:-

Consignment which is passed in the audit shall be moved to C-TPAT area. The carton moved
to C-TPAT shall be recorded in the register. The movement to C-TPAT area shall be restricted.
Only authorized person shall be allowed inside the C-TPAT area. Security guard shall be
deputed to monitor the movement to/from C-TPAT area. Carton shall be stacked P.O wise in
C-TPAT area. Display board indicating the consignment details shall be displayed in each
stack.

14. External audit (final audit) :-

QA plan shall be prepared and forwarded to nominate QA to invite buyer QA for audit. Based
on the QA plan consignment shall be offered for audit. Carton audit report, scanned ASN
packing list, Internal QA report and FSA report shall be provided to buyer QA/certified

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auditor before starting the audit. If audit is passed, inspection clearance report (OK to ship)
shall be provided by the auditor. In audit fails, consignment shall be re-screened and re
offered for audit.

15. Part OCR:-

After final audit part OCR shall be prepared by the finishing manager and submitted to BI
after signoff from AGM, FM and factory planner. In case of short shipment, director approval
shall be taken before dispatch.

16. Final carton audit:-

Finishing in-charge shall ensure that carton auditor does the final carton audit to ensure re -
packing accuracy of carton opened by the buyer QA/certified auditor during final audit.

17. Dispatch:-

One day before the loading vehicle arrangement shall be confirmed with documentation
department to the finishing manager. On the day of loading QC shall cross check the
consignment through packing list to ensure that number of cartons matching to packing list.
While loading, security shall count the number of cartons being loaded and tally with the
invoice. After loading security shall prepare security report (on invoice copy) and security,
finishing manager or FM shall sign off the report. A copy of security report shall be given to
security, factory and transporter and truck out shall be done. The shipment details shall be
recorded in shipment details record by the finishing manager.

18. Final OCR:-

Final Order completion report shall be prepared within a day of shipment by the finishing
manager.

MACHINE DETAILS:

Table 1 : Sewing Machine Details

BARTACK M/C KE430D-02 BROTHER 9

BUTTON STITCH M/C BE438D BROTHER 2
CHAINSTITCHM/C -1
MH481 JUKI
NEEDLE 5

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FEED OFF ARM M/C 2261H VIBEMAC 1
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
GEM8900NH GEMSY
NEEDLE 1
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
S7200A-305 BROTHER
NEEDLE 11
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
S7200A-405 BROTHER
NEEDLE 4
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
S7200C-433-022 BROTHER
NEEDLE 8
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
KM250A-7S SUNSTAR
NEEDLE 3
LOCKSTITCH M/C - 1
LS2-1280MITW VIBEMAC
NEEDLE 1
NEEDLE DETECTOR HN-730G HASHIMA 1
OVERLOCK M/C MO6704S JUKI 3
OVERLOCK M/C MO6716S JUKI 2
SNAP ATTACH M/C NS-47U NGAI SHING 26
SNAP ATTACH M/C FOX200 NM NORMEK 7

Packaging trims used in Jeans finishing

For export orders

 Waist band tag

 Hanger string
 Size ring
 Poly cover
 Poly bag sticker
 Carton
 Carton sticker

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3.1 Maintenance department

Due to the strong competition in the market and industries, the garment industry must have a plan to
improve the working process and environment to gain higher efficiency of production process and
hence maintenance of the machines and equipment is very much necessary. Maintenance management
is an orderly and systematic approach to planning; organising, monitoring and evaluating. Also
maintenance activities reduce the costs. A good maintenance management system coupled with
knowledgeable and capable maintenance staff can prevent health and safety problems and
environmental damage; yield longer asset life with fewer breakdowns; and result in lower operating
costs and a higher quality of life. The maintenance strategies are carried out on a daily, weekly and
monthly basis that is preventive maintenance and also breakdown maintenance. The daily preventive
maintenance includes cleaning of machine at the beginning and end of the shift, tracing out broken
needle/ pin from the oil tank, covering the machine properly. This is done by the operator itself. The
weekly preventive maintenance would include checking the condition of hook/ loopers, as well as the
timings, clean in and around the throat plate, face plate and oil pan etc., Check oil level and
lubrication performance and check the bobbin case and bobbin case condition. The monthly
preventive maintenance includes machine alignment, bobbin winder checking and setting, stand and
table alignment, motor and control box cleaning, all electrical appliances cleaning. The weekly and
monthly preventive maintenance is done by the machine mechanic. The maintenance done is recorded
and mentioned in the score card by the maintenance personnel for each machine.

Objective of preventive maintenance:

A Preventive Maintenance management program is both systematic and flexible

which geared towards minimizing downtime and maximizing equipment life. It helps to
prevent equipment failures by creating system of predicting when it will occur.

 Minimize Machine downtime.

 Eliminate catastrophic machine failure.
 Reduce unscheduled maintenance
 Optimized machinery performance
 Reduce unnecessary machinery repairs
 Reduce scrap caused by poorly performing machines
 Eliminate the cost of consequential damages caused by a functional failure
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  Establishing critical scheduling protocols

Preventive maintenance in the cutting department

The goal is to find out the failures of the machines before it happen, which will
increase the life of the machine and support in increasing the productivity and an improved
service from the maintenance department.
 Reduce Machine downtime.
 Cutting / Fusing to be at the standard quality
 Ensure installation of all safety equipment on the machine
 Better service from the maintenance department

The procedures to be followed in the cutting department for the maintenance are:

1. For the layering machine:

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Layering Machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean Machine DAILY Machine Operator

02 Check all bolts WEEKLY Cutting Room Mechanic

03 Check and grease the cutting device WEEKLY -- “ - -

04 Check and lubricate the elevator WEEKLY -- “ - -

05 Check all the wiring MONTHLY -- “ - -

06 General cleaning using Air Blower WEEKLY -- “ - -

07 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M02) MONTHLY -- “ - -

08 Update the Machine Card MONTHLY -- “ - -

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 2. Straight knife cutting machine:

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Straight Knife Cutting Machine

ITE PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

M

01 Clean Machine DAILY Machine Operator

02 Check and lubricate the Sharpening Device WEEKLY Cutting Room Mechanic

03 Check the Knife WEEKLY -- “ - -

04 Adjust the Sharpening Shoe WEEKLY -- “ - -

05 Check Neoprene Band WEEKLY -- “ - -

06 Check the grinding belt WEEKLY -- “ - -

07 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M03) MONTHLY -- “ - -

08 Update the Machine Card MONTHLY -- “ - -

3. Band knife machine:

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Band Knife Machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean Machine DAILY Machine Operator

02 Check & tighten all bolts MONTHLY Cutting Room Mechanic

03 Check and grease the bearings MONTHLY -- “ - -

04 Check the throat plate WEEKLY -- “ - -

05 Check the grinding stone WEEKLY -- “ - -

06 Check belt tightness MONTHLY -- “ - -

07 Check the Blade and safety guards MONTHLY -- “ - -

08 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M04) MONTHLY -- “ - -

MONTHLY
09 Update the Machine Card -- “ - -

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 4. Placket trim machine:

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Placket Trim Machien

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean Machine DAILY Machine Operator

02 Check Lower & Upper Knife WEEKLY Shop Floor Mechanic

03 Check and Clean inside faceplate components WEEKLY -- “ - -

04 Check and Clean inside Needle Plate & Feed Dog WEEKLY -- “ - -

05 Check & Clean Oil, Oil Filter & Top up if necessary MONTHLY -- “ - -

06 Check the safety guards WEEKLY -- “ - -

07 Check & adjust the belt tension MONTHLY -- “ - -

08 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M05) MONTHLY -- “ - -

MONTHLY
09 Update the Machine Card -- “ - -

5. Die Cut machine:

Table 2 : Preventive Maintenance for Die Cut machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean Machine DAILY Machine Operator

02 Oil Level and top up if necessary MONTHLY Mechanic

03 Check the Die Cut Board MONTHLY -- “ - -

04 Check the Hydraulic Pressure MONTHLY -- “ - -

05 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M06) MONTHLY -- “ - -

06 Update the Machine Card MONTHLY -- “ - -

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 6. Fusing machine:

Table ] : Preventive Maintenance for Fusing machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean Machine with Compressed Air DAILY Machine Operator

02 Check & Clean the Conveyor Belt DAILY Machine Operator

03 Check all Bearing and lubricate if necessary Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

04 Check the Emergency Switch Weekly -- “ - -

05 Check the Air pressure for Conveyor Belt Daily -- “ - -

06 Check the Heating Element weekly -- “ - -

07 Check & Change the cleaning Cloth Weekly -- “ - -

08 Check & Clean the Scraper Knife Weekly -- “ - -

09 Check Electrical/Electronic Components Monthly -- “ - -

10 Check Cooling Belt Monthly -- “ - -

11 Clean Air Filter Daily -- “ - -

12 Check & Clean Air hose & connections Daily -- “ - -

13 Check all Feeding Rollers Monthly -- “ - -

14 Check all Pressure Rollers Monthly -- “ - -

15 Fill the Check list for Laying M/c - (M07) Monthly -- “ - -

16 Update Machine Card Monthly -- “ - -

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 7. Preventive maintenance of sewing machine:

a. Sewing machine (Single/Double needle lock stitch):

Table: Preventive maintenance of sewing machine (Single/Double needle lock stitch)

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDU RESPONSIBILITY

LE
01 Clean the machine Daily Machine operator
02 Check & Clean the oil pump/ Oil filter Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
03 Check oil level and top up if necessary Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
04 Check the Lubrication system Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
05 Check & Clean Face Plate components Weekly Shop Floor Mechanic
06 Check & adjust Belt Tension Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
07 Check & Clean Needle Plate components Weekly Shop Floor Mechanic
08 Check & Tighten Thread Stand/Bobbin Winder Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
09 Check & tighten the Stand/Tables Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic
10 Change Oil Quarterly Shop Floor Mechanic
11 Check & Clean all Starters/Switches Weekly Shop Floor Electrician
12 Clean The Motor/Control Box using Compressed Monthly Shop Floor Electrician
Air
13 Lubricate Motor Bearings (Clutch Motor) Monthly Shop Floor Electrician

14 Monthly Shop Floor

Fill the Check list for Sewing M/c - (M08)
Mechanic/Electrician
15 Monthly Shop Floor
Update Machine Card
Mechanic/Electrician

b. Sewing Machine( Overlock / Feed off arm / Chain stitch / Front Placket)
Table : Preventive Maintenance for Sewing Machine( Overlock / Feed off arm / Chain stitch / Front Placket)

ITE PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

M

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Remove dust from looper components Daily Machine Operator

03 Check Oil level and top up if necessary Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic

04 Check all Loopers Monthly -- “ - -

145 | P a g e
 05 Check Upper & Lower Knife Weekly -- “ - -

06 Check & adjust Lubrication System Monthly -- “ - -

07 Check & ensure all Safety Devices Monthly -- “ - -

08 Check & Tighten Thread Stand/Bobbin Winder Monthly -- “ - -

09 Check & tighten the Stand/Tables Monthly

10 Change Oil Quarterly -- “ - -

11 Check & Clean all Starters/Switches Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

CleanTheMotor/ControlBoxusing
12 Monthly -- “ - -
Compressed Air

13 Lubricate Motor Bearings (Clutch Motor) Monthly -- “ - -

Shop Floor
14 Fill the Check list for Sewing M/c - (M09) Monthly
Mechanic/Electrician

15 Update Machine Card As per Schedule -- “ - -

c. Auto Jig/ Profile Stitching machine

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Auto Jig/ Profile Stitching machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Check & Clean the Oil Pump / Oil Filter Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic

03 Check Oil level and top up if necessary Monthly -- “ - -

04 Check the Lubrication system. Monthly -- “ - -

05 Check & Clean Face Plate components Weekly -- “ - -

06 Check & adjust Belt Tension Monthly -- “ - -

07 Check & Clean Needle Plate components Weekly -- “ - -

08 Check & Tighten Thread Stand/Bobbin Winder Monthly -- “ - -

09 Check & tighten the Stand/Tables Monthly

10 Change Oil Quarterly -- “ - -

146 | P a g e
 11 Check & Clean all Starters/Switches Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

12 Clean The Motor/Control Box using Compressed Air Monthly -- “ --

13 Check working of all sensors Weekly -- “ --

Shop Floor
14 Fill the Check list for Sewing M/c - (M10) Monthly
Mechanic/Electrician

15 Update Machine Card Monthly -- “ --

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Collar Turning / Cuff Turning machine

d. Collar Turning / Cuff Turning machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Remove Dust in the electric circuit board Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

03 Check & Lubricate all Cylinders Weekly -- “ - -

04 Check the Pedal Switch. Monthly -- “ - -

05 Check the Emergency Stop Switch Monthly -- “ - -

06 Check & Remove water from the air filter Daily -- “ - -

07 Check the thermostat Weekly -- “ - -

08 Check all the timers Monthly -- “ - -

09 Fill the Check list for Sewing M/c - (M11) Monthly -- “ - -

10 Update Machine Card Monthly -- “ - -

e. Button Hole sewing machine:

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Button Hole sewing machine

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Check & Clean the Oil Pump / Oil Filter Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic

03 Check Oil level and top up if necessary Monthly -- “ - -

147 | P a g e
 04 Check the Lubrication system. Monthly -- “ --

05 Check & Clean Face Plate components Weekly -- “ --

06 Check Rotary Hook Monthly -- “ --

07 Check setting of Upper Thread Trimmer Weekly -- “ --

08 Check setting of Lower Thread Trimmer Monthly -- “ --

09 Check the Needle Plate Monthly

10 Change Oil Quarterly -- “ --

11 Check the condition of all Sensors & Switches Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

12 Check & Ensure all the Safety Devices Monthly -- “ --

Shop Floor
13 Fill the Check list for Button Hole (M12) Monthly
Mechanic/Electrician

14 Update the Machine Card Monthly -- “ --

Table: Preventive Maintenance Duty for mechanics

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Check the Point of the Shuttle Hook Weekly Shop Floor Mechanic

03 Check the Needle Bar Bushings Monthly -- “ --

04 Check the Moving & Fixed Knifes Monthly -- “ --

05 Check the Thread Tension System Weekly -- “ --

06 Check & Add oil Every 2 Days -- “ --

07 Check the Thread Wiper Adjustment Weekly -- “ --

08 Check, Empty & Clean the Waste Oil Collector Monthly -- “ --

09 Check the Needle Plate Monthly

10 Check & Ensure all Safety Devices Monthly -- “ --

148 | P a g e
 11 Check & Clean Control Circuit Board Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

12 Check the condition of all Sensors Monthly -- “ --

Shop Floor
13 Fill the Check list for Button Sewing (M13) Monthly
Mechanic/Electrician

14 Update the Machine Card Monthly -- “ --

Table : Preventive Maintenance for Button sewing machine

f. Button sewing machine:

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the machine Daily Machine Operator

02 Check & Clean the Oil Pump / Oil Filter Monthly Shop Floor Mechanic

03 Check Oil level and top up if necessary Monthly -- “ - -

04 Check the Lubrication system. Monthly -- “ - -

05 Check & Clean Face Plate components Weekly -- “ - -

06 Check Rotary Hook Monthly -- “ - -

07 Check setting of Upper Thread Trimmer Weekly -- “ - -

08 Check setting of Lower Thread Trimmer Monthly -- “ - -

09 Check the Needle Plate Monthly

10 Change Oil Quarterly -- “ - -

11 Check the condition of all Sensors & Switches Weekly Shop Floor Electrician

12 Check & Ensure all the Safety Devices Monthly -- “ - -

Shop Floor
13 Fill the Check list for Button Hole (M12) Monthly
Mechanic/Electrician

14 Update the Machine Card Monthly -- “ - -

8. Preventive maintenance for the utilities:

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The Compressor is a positive displacement machine and as such has distinct working phase: -
Suction, Compressor and Discharge. Preventive maintenance on each working phase is
critical. The objective is to
 Maximum efficiency, reliability and longevity of the compressor.
 Reduce maintenance cost.

Air Compressor:

Table: Preventive Maintenance for Air Compressor

ITEM PROCEDURE SCHEDULE RESPONSIBILITY

01 Clean the Machine Daily Electrician

02 Clean the Oil Filter -- “ -- -- “ - -

03 Clean the Air Filter -- “ -- -- “ - -

04 Check and Clean the Moisture Separator -- “ -- -- “ - -

05 Check & Adjust the Belts -- “ -- -- “ - -

06 Check the Electrical System Weekly Electrician

07 Change Oil As per Schedule -- “ - -

08 Change Oil & Air Filters -- “ -- -- “ - -

09 Replace any parts where it is necessary -- “ -- -- “ - -

10 Fill the Check List for Compressor (M 14) -- “ -- -- “ - -

11 Update all Servicing Cards. -- “ -- -- “ - -

The tools used by the mechanic for the maintenance are: Hammer, Halanky, Metal files,
Trimmer, Spanners, ruler, Spirit level checker, Tweezers, Vernier calipers, Screw drivers.
The frequent problems observed in the sewing machines are:

1. SNLS: Skip stitch, puckering, knot stitch, loose stitch. The reasons for this maybe the
improper tension of the thread for both needle as well as bobbin case. Also it may arise due to
blunt needle, breaking needle, pneumatic defect in the valve due to dust infection and
moisture content, motor burn, defected sensor.
2. Overlock: The adjustment of looper alignment, pedal and presser foot not being synced
150 | P a g e
 3. Double needle lock stitch: Thread trimming problem due to the thread jamming.
4. Loop attaching machine: Button stuck inside the machine

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PROJE
CT
WORK
152 | P a g e
MINI PROJECT - 1
3.2Production Improvement In Cutting

CUTTING DEPARTMENT –ARVIND LIMITED

TIME STUDY OF NOTCH MARKING AND PLANNING

TARGET: 200 PCS/HR/OPR TOTAL OPR: 05

TARGET /DAY-200PCS*8HR*5 OPR TARGET/DAY- 8000PCS/DAY

TIME STUDY NO. OF PIECES PANNEL NO OF TOTAL NO OF

MARKING/PANEL MARKING /
(IN MINUTE)
OF 1 GARMENT GARMENT
(For 4 MARKING) (For 16
Marking)

06:18:51 60 BACK

05:14:39 60 BACK ” ”

04:51:08 60 BACK ” ”

04:33:29 60 BACK ” ”

04:28:11 60 BACK ” ”

24:00/5 =4.8 =5

04:38:71 60 FRONT

04:22:14 60 ” ” ”

03:14:79 60 ” ” ”

03:58:39 60 ” ” ”

05:02:59 60 ” ” ”

20:00/05 =4

TOTAL AVG TIME =18 MINUTES 60 PCS GARMENT

BECAUSE IN ONE GARMENT = 2 FRONT PANEL + 2 BACK PANEL (16 MARKING)

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 TOTAL NO OF PCS GARMENT PRODUCTION /HOUR/=60/18*60=3.34*60=200PCS/HR/OPR

NOW, WE HAVE ONLY 5 OPERATOR (WE NED 2 MORE OPERATOR FOR PRODUCING 11200
PCS/DAY).
PRODUCTION/DAY (ACCORDING TO 5- OPERATOR) =200PCS*8HR*5=8000PCS)
SO, WIP HAPPENING HERE.

WE CAN SOLVE THAT WIP AND WILL INCREASE THE PRODUCTION–

(5-OPERATORS)+(1-OPERATORS OF NUMBERING)+(1-OPERATOR MORE
NEEDED TO CLEAR WIP AND INCREASE THE PRODUCTION)
NOW,
WE HAVE 7-OPERATORS
TOTAL PRODUCTION /DAY=200PCS*8HR*7=11200PCS/DAY

(ACCORDING TO THIS PLAN WE HAVE NED 1 OPERATOR BECAUSE WE R USING 1 OPEARTOR

FROM NUMBERING SECTION)

TARGET WAS – 8000 PCS(ACCORDING TO MASTER PLAN)

BUT PRODUCTIVITY CAN BE INCREASED TO – 11200 PCS (AFTER
INCREASING 1- OPERATOR)

TIME STUDY OF NUMBERING AND PLANNING

TARGET: 200 PCS/HR/OPR TOTAL OPR: 06
TARGET /DAY-200PCS*8HR*6 OP TARGET/DAY- 9600PCS/DAY

TIME TOTAL WORKERS NO.OF PIECES/HOUR

NAME
ST ND
1 SHIFT- 2 DAY
09:00-10:00  BHEEMA 721 (DELAY)

10:00-11:00  LAKSHMI 848

11:00-12:00  CHAITRA 861

12:00-01:00  JAYA 876

 GEETHA TOTAL - 3306 PCS


BABY AVG 825PCS/HOUR/03 OPR
AVG 275PCS/HOUR/ OPR

AVG-(WILL TAKE) 850PCS/HOUR/03 OPR

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 AVG 280PCS/HOUR/OPR
ND
2 SHIFT- FIRST DAY
01:00-02:00 06 1400

02:30-03:30 06 1741

03:30-04:30 06 1174

04:30-05:30 06 2662

TOTAL - 6977 PCS

AVG 6977PCS/06 OPR

AVG 1744 PCS/HOUR/06 OPR

AVG 290PCS/HR/OPR

AVG (WILL TAKE) 280 PCS/HR/OPR

AVG PRODUCTION/HOUR/OPERATOR=290 PCS+ 275PCS/2SHIFT =565/2=282PCS/HOUR/OPR

SO,

AVG PRODUCTION OF NUMBERING/HOUR /OPERATOR=280PCS/HOUR/OPERATOR

WE NEED ONLY 5 OPERATORS ACCORDING TO OUR PLAN-TOTAL PRODUCTION
/DAY=280PCS*8HOUR*5 OPR
=11200 PCS/DAY (WE CAN PRODUCE 11200PCS FROM 5- OPERATOR
BUT AT PRESENT,

WE HAVE 6–OPERATORS (WE CAN SHIFT 1- OPERATORS FOR NOTH MARKING DUE TO MORE
WIP IN NOTH MARKING)

PRODUCTION – INCRESES -(9600 TO 11200)

MAN POWER DECREASES – (1 OPERATOR)

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 TIME STUDY OF PANEL INSPECTIONS AND PLANNING

TARGET: 200 PCS/HR/OPR TOTAL OPR: 05

TARGET /DAY-200PCS*8HR*5 OPR TARGET/DAY- 8000PCS/DAY

TIME STUDY NO. OF PIECES PANNEL

(IN MINUTE)

04:58:94 71 BACK

06:08:34 71 BACK

04:56:42 71 BACK

15:00/03:00=5:00 AVG TIME

04:32:11 71 FRONT

04:11:27 71 FRONT

03:56:98 71 FRONT

12:00/03:00=4:00 AVG TIME

TOTAL AVG TIME =18 MINUTES/70 PCS GARMENT

BECAUSE IN ONE GARMENT = 2 FRONT PANEL + 2 BACK PANEL

TOTAL NO OF PCS GARMENT PRODUCTION /HOUR/=60/18*70=3.34*70=233PCS/HR/OPR

NOW, WE HAVE ONLY 5 OPERATORS (WE NEED 1 MORE OPERATOR FOR PRODUCING 11200
PCS/DAY).
PRODUCTION/DAY (ACCORDING TO 5- OPERATOR) =233PCS*8HR*5=9320PCS)
So, Wip Happening Here.
NOW,
WE HAVE 6-OPERATORS
TOTAL PRODUCTION /DAY=233PCS*8HR*6=11181PCS/DAY (APPROX =11200)

TARGET WAS – 8000 PCS(ACCORDING TO MASTER PLAN)

NOW IT IS HAPPENING- 11200PCS (TO INCREASE 1- OPERATORS)

156 | P a g e
 Figure: Appreciation For Increase In cutting Productivity.

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MINI PROJECT-2
First Hour Production Improvement In Dry Process

The dry finishing department was facing certain issues regarding the production capacity
utilization of hand sanding and quality problem of the department.

Problem Recognition:
st
1 hour production=5Pcs
nd
2 hour production=15Pcs
st
Objective: To improve 1 hour production as the difference is too high and to identify the most
occuring defects and do the root cause analysis to reduce the dhu% as well as yellow tag
garments(To do right in first time).

Methodology:
 Data of previous 5 months was collected and analyzed as per the most defect occurring.

1st hour activity was observed in hand sanding section .

Root cause analysis was done of the most occurring defects.

Corrective action plan was made for levis as the buyer was considering the rework as defect, which
was enhancing the DHU%.
Findings:

The problem which was noticed was improper feeding of pieces at respective workstations at
09:00am.
i. The issue was discussed with the supervisors of all the three lines and Ie of
respective department.
ii. Feeding problem of:
1. Sand paper
2. Double Sided Tape
3. Foam
4. Garment
Solution: The helpers were instructed to cut the double sided tape and sand paper
beforehand and provide to individual workstation while feeding the garments as at
present they use to distribute at the office gate where workers have to go and get it which
was consuming a lot of time.

Earlier they use to bring the garments from basement at 09:00am which was major reason
of improper feeding, So they were told to bring 350pcs extra one day before else to bring
it at 08:50am on the same day. We ensured that atleast by 9:10am the work is started and
the 1st hour production was monitored by us including IE and afer working on it and
making the proper feeding, 1st hour production is on an average 11pcs/workstation.

158 | P a g e
 
More defects were coming from Line B in which the training operators were doing the
job. Supervisors were instructed to do more supervision and they were given a meeting
was called where they were told about the quality and instructed to handle major defects.
Defect Analysis month-wise and average

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160 | P a g e
161 | P a g e
 Cause - Effect analysis of defects and finding remedies:

Thread mark

Cause – Unwanted thread of row garment

Effect – Appear thread like mark in surface of the garment & it will appear more dense when
garment in final wash.

Remedy – Clean all unwanted thread from garment before it is send for dry process from
sewing .

Folding mark-

Cause – Uneven pressure in hand sanding mannequin

Effect – Appear mark in surface of the garment .

Remedy – Maintain appropriate air pressure in each mannequin depending upon the size of
garment .

162 | P a g e
 Whisker less/heavy –

Cause – It is occurred due to some wrong assumption of whisker intensity.

Effect – After wash it appear less as compare to the standards.

Remedy – Proper assumption of whisker intensity before starting the whiskering process.

Whisker uneven

Cause – It is occurred due to unequal intensity of whisker done by both operator ( in a
garment every leg of whisker doing by individual operator).

Effect – After wash both leg appear unequal whisker intensity.

Remedy – Both operator should be doing same intensity in every garment.

Scrapping less

Cause – It is occurred due to less scrapping intensity done by some operator.

Effect – After wash it appear less as compare to the standards .

Remedy – Proper monitoring & proper checking of each & every operator.

Thread cut-

Cause – It is occurred in both hand sanding & whisker due to unappropriated operation in
hand sanding & whisker, when operator by mistakenly doing wronged scraping in
unwanted area where some embroidery thread is there .

Effect – Garment are treated as red tag, & it is counted as a rejection garment.

Remedy – Proper monitoring & proper checking of each & every operator.

Tacking damage

Cause – tacking damage occur in washing when tack is not removed before hydro then some
short of damage is occurred.

Effect – Garment are treated as red tag, & it is counted as a rejection garment.

Remedy – Proper monitoring & proper checking of each & every stage of operation.

163 | P a g e
 
Tacking less
Cause – It is occurred due to some short of missing tag.

Effect –The garment appears tag less .

Remedy – Proper monitoring & proper checking in tagging operation .

Loop/front/back damage

Cause – It is occurred in hand sanding , when excess pressure is inserted in mannequin .

Effect –The loop/front/back of garment is damaged & it is treated as rejected garment .

Remedy – Maintain proper air pressure in every mannequin.

Side seam less


Cause – It is occurred when side seam iron is missing .

Effect –Garment looks .

Remedy – Maintain proper air pressure in every mannequin

LEVI'S REWORK REDUCTION PROGRAM 2017

TOP 3 DHU AT WASHING

1. PP INTENSITY HEAVY, LESS, UNEVEN- 26.79%

2. THREAD MARK-10.97%

3. FOLDING MARK-10.91%

164 | P a g e
Description Why 1 Why 2 Why 3 Why 4 Why 5

No periodic
Lack of meetings are
1.NEGLIGENCY
awareness happening on
a regular
basis
2.USING Rate of
TRAINEE attrition is
OPERATOR highs

No SOP or
No periodic definition of
3.FAULTY at what
check up or
SPRAY GUN intervals a
maintenance periodic
maintenance
is required
4.UNEVEN
BLADDER ?
PRESSURE

5.INSUFFICIENT
?
LIGHTING

6.IMPROPER
WAY OF
Operator
PUTTING Lack of
negligence
GARMENT ON awareness
MANNEQUIN

Operators
don’t wait till Supervisors ae
No target
the initial not
7.SOP’S Work fixed for
pieces are communicating
SKIPPED pressure individual
about the target
checked after operators
to the operators
neutralization

8.NUMBER OF No of strokes
STROKES NOT are not
FOLLOWED defined

9.UNEQUAL Spray
DISTANCE distance is

165 | P a g e
BETWEEN not defined
MANNEQUIN
AND SPRAY
GUN

Proper care is
not taken by
10.PP CON NOT
workers when
CORRECT
they prepare
the solution

Operator to
11.UNEVEN OR
operator No complete
HEAVY/LESS No SOP set
intensity marking of
INTENSITY OF fro marking
the DP area
DP variation

166 | P a g e
 Corrective action plan – PP INTENSITY HEAVY/LESS AND UNEVEN

LESS HEAVY HEAVY LESS OKAY

Date of
S Corrective Action Initiation
Root Cause Responsible
No: Plan

WORK Need to do time SHEKHAR

1 PRESSURE study and fix
individual targets
Meetings will be RISHIKESH
2 NEGLIGENCE conducted on all
Saturdays
USING Training for new SEKHAR
operators will be
TRAINEE
3 made effective by
OPERATORS continuous
engagement
FAULTY SURESH
Periodic
4 SPRAY GUN maintenance
Changing of both
UNEVEN the mannequins
BLADDER simultaneously
6 SAYEESH
PRESSURE when one of the
mannequin needs
to be changed

167 | P a g e
 INSUFFICIENT
7 LIGHTING ? SAYEESH

To make workers
PROPER WAY aware on the
OF PUTTING importance of
9 GARMENT ON putting the NAZIR
MANNEQUIN garments in the
proper way on the
mannequin
NUMBER OF
To define and
STROKES
follow the number
11 NOT of strokes for each NAZIR
FOLLOWED style
UNEQUAL
DISTANCE To set the distance
for spray and to
12 BETWEEN make sure its NAZIR
MANNEQUIN followed during
AND GUN spray

SOP’s to be
PP CON NOT
followed for
13 CORRECT solution NAZIR
preparation
1. Number of
strokes to
be defined
and
followed
2. Air
UNEVEN OR
pressure
LESS/HEAVY
15 variation to HRISHIKESH 15.06.17
INTENSITY
be
OF DP
corrected
and
maintenanc
e on a
routine
basis

168 | P a g e
UNEVEN BLADDER WRONG PLACEMENT TWISTED LEG DURIING SPRAY

169 | P a g e
Corrective action plan – THREAD mark

Corrective Date of
S No: Root Cause Image Responsible
Action Plan Initiation
Holding
weekly
NEGLIGENCE
1 meeting with QA Sewing Immediately
line qc and
auditor
THREAD
SUCKING
MACHINE
2
NOT
SUFFICIENT

NON UBT
3 MACHINE

HIGH Need to make

TARGET FOR operators
4
TRIMMING aware about
self trimming

170 | P a g e
DescriptionWhy 1 Why 2 Why 3 Why 4 Why 5
Not understanding
NEGLIGENCE the importance of Lack of
AT AUDIT thread mark awareness

Garments are
HIGH coming to the final Operators are
TARGET FOR table without self not doing self
TRIMMING trimming trimming

Non availability of
NON UBT machine due to
MACHINE technical feasibility

THREAD
SUCKING
MACHINE
NOT
SUFFICIENT

Fig: Thread mark and the reason of its occurrence

171 | P a g e
Corrective action plan – FOLDING mark

172 | P a g e
 Corrective Action Date of
S No: Root Cause Responsible
Plan Initiation
HEAVY PRESSURE
APPLIED DURING To define and follow
for how many pieces
HAND SANDING BY IE/Ramesh
1 operators need to
HAND SANDING change the sand paper /HRISHIKESH
OPERATOR depending on the style

LACK OF
Periodic meeting on
2 AWARNESS every Saturday HRISHIKESH Immediate

NOT USING
3 TRAINED ? HR
OPERATOR

AIR LEAKAGE
4 EXTERNALL ? Sayish

AIR LEAKAGE
5 INTERNALL ? SAYISH

6 UNEVEN BLADDER ? SAYSH

INCORRECT WAY
7 OFFIXING THE ? SAYISH
BLADDER

173 | P a g e
 EMBRY PAPPER To define and follow
NOT CHANGED for how many pieces
8 AFTER FIXED NO operators need to
OF GMT change the sand paper
depending on the style

Description Why 1 Why 2 Why 3 Why 4 Why 5

HEAVY PRESSURE
APPLIED DURING
Not able to get the Sand paper is
HAND SANDING
desired intensity of hand not changed
BY HAND sanding at regular
SANDING intervals
OPERATOR

LACK OF No periodical meetings

AWARNESS are happening

NOT USING 1. Operator

TRAINED absenteeism
OPERATOR 2. Not having multi
skilled operator
AIR LEAKAGE
EXTERNAL

UNEVEN
BLADDER

INCORRECT WAY
OF FIXING THE
BLADDER

Not defined on after how

SAND PAPPER NOT
many pieces the sand
CHANGED AFTER
paper needs to be
FIXED NO OF GMT
changed

174 | P a g e
MINI PROJECT:-3
Drier Capacity Improvement

The problem noticed in washing area was capacity balancing of washing machine and drier.
Drier wip was very high which were resulting into generating bad odor from the garments which
remain in it even after all the finishes. This were resulting into rejection of garments as well as
giving bad quality image in buyers view.

METHODOLGY:

Production capacity of drier according to specification was calculated, it was discussed with

the maintenance head and in charge and approval was taken
Trial and error method to improve the number of garments feeding.
FINDINGS:

Maximum number of garments they are feeding= 50-80adults garment depending upon the

weight and type of finishes required.
Maintenance was the major reason.

It was informed to us by the production team that if we feed more number of garments from what
they are feeding , then there is shade problem.

Trial & Error method was done on all the styles with the help of washing quality head
and later it was concluded that it can be done for the Aeropostale orders as the tolerance
level is 5-7% in this.

175 | P a g e
 Dryer capacity
Total Dryers 20
Models 2
Model -1 TGI ( Trigentata Grandi Implanti)
Mo0dle-2 Stalwart

Model -1 TGI ( Trigentata Grandi Implanti )

Total NO 12
Break down 2
Working 10
Case Study-1
Adult Garments 70 Pcs /Hour
No of dryer 10
Total Production 1 hour 700 pcs
in 1 shift 5600 pcs
in 3 shift 16800 pcs
But Capacity 20160 pcs
Pcs Lost due to Dryer maintenance 3360

Model-2 Stalwart

Total No of Dryer 8
Under Maintenanace 1
Templing 2
Working 5
Case Studt-2
Adult Garment 50
nNo of dryer working 5
Capacity per Shift 1500
Capacity for 3 shift 4500
Actual Capacity 7200
Loss 2700

Total Production in Both Models Adult Garments only 21300

Total loss in pcs due to drier Maintenance 6060
Total Actual Capacity of Dryer Plant Including Breakdown dryers 27360

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Arvind Process
Ltd.
towar
ds 5s
177 | P a g e
 Project overview

Suggestion was provided to the industry of 5S.

Where when they are educated and conscious of their surroundings is when the company can
sustain the implementation.

Cleanness and wastage was a major issue in the industry as well as safety workers would
constantly be hurt or ill due to various reasons (improper machinery, rusted equipment, no skills
in operating the machine <i.e. spreaders trying to operate straight knife>, no use of safety
guards) leading to absenteeism or unavailability of the operators.

Hence 5S was planned to be implemented.

5S

Takahashi OSADA introduced 5S System to Japanese Industries

In India 5S System Concepts gained momentum since 2002

5s defined as

Systematic Practicing of Good habits like organizing cleaning, sustaining, is what is emphasized
in 5S. 5S is a more “DO IT YOURSELF” approach changing the mindset is very important.

5S is one of the most widely adopted techniques from the lean manufacturing toolbox. Along
with Standard Work and Total Productive Maintenance, 5S is considered a "foundational" lean
concept, as it establishes the operational stability required for making and sustaining continuous
improvements.

The primary objective of 5S is to create a clean, orderly environment- an environment where

there is a place for everything and everything is in its place. Beyond this, many companies
begin their lean transformation with 5S because it exposes some of the most visible examples
of waste it also helps establish the framework and discipline required to successfully pursue
other continuous improvement initiatives.

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5S stands for 5 Japanese words:

SEIRI -SORT

Sort Procedure

1. Sort through items in the area.

2. Keep what is needed.

3. Eliminate what is not needed.

4. Reduce the number of items to the quantity required at any given time.

SEIRI IS DIFFICULT TO PRACTICE

• Sometimes People believe in Antique value and hope that by preserving a thing they are

Really doing a wise thing

• They wrongly believe that a demand for the unwanted items will come one day

• Sometimes people do not realize the importance of space, believing in unlimited space

Availability. People may not realize that space also costs much.

Items classified in seiri(Sort):

Regularly required: Keep near the workplace area.

Occasionally required: Keep them in a place not near to your workplace with proper
identification, but in a place easily accessible, so that they can be drawn for the occasion

Rarely required: Items are rare use

 Keep them away, in some place in stores with due identification.

 These items need not be found in the workplace

Items to be Repaired / reworked / Alternate use: Is it worth repairing?

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  Discuss and take a call If worth repairing – Repair and put to use. Not worth repairing -
push it for disposal

Not required at All: Dispose them.

– Move them to scrap yard

– Make money out of them.

Applying the RED TAG concept

 All items that have a rare use or not required in a particular department are tied or pasted
with a red tag and kept in a separate area, so that other departments could use these items,
if they need them.
 Create red tag area and a red tag register to list the item details
 Move the items that are not required for the present job to the earmarked red tag area
with the red tag.
 Enter these details in the red tag register.

SEITON- SET IN ORDER

A Place for Everything and Everything in its Place

Seiton ensures that we do not waste our valuable time in searching items which is a non-value
adding activity

Set in Order Procedure

1. Analyze the current situation by updating the Workplace Scan Display Checklist.

2. Target specific issues.

3. Decide where things belong.

4. Make it visually obvious where and how things belong.

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Display boards and instructions

 Parking areas for vehicles, material handling equipment’s, office furniture, machines etc.
 Floor marking, directional indicators
 Colour coding for office documents, pipe lines, fire extinguishers.
 Identification for all stored items for easy retrieval.

SEISO –SHINE (Cleanliness)

Shine Procedures
1. Check to see if everything is in its place.

2. Check to see if you need to replace anything.

3. Check specific equipment targets for necessary repairs.

4. Check everything; see if deep cleaning, repair, or replacement is needed.

5. Shine and inspect through cleaning every shift.

SEIKETSU -STANDARDIZE

Standardize Procedure

1. Identify and categorize a condition to standardize.

2. Brainstorm potential control ideas.

3. Select, test, and adopt control ideas.

4. Assign responsibilities for condition maintenance.

5. Maintain and monitor those conditions.

SHITSUKE- SUSTAIN

Sustain Procedure

1. Stick to the rules to keep the workplace well-ordered and run by agreed-upon standards.

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2. Ensure that all workers have been trained in the procedures.

3. Inform and encourage participation through 5S concepts and skills training,

5S Communication Boards, photo displays, one-point lessons, study groups, and daily and
weekly 5S activities.

Importance of 5S:

 A clean workplace is high in Productivity: since the workplace creates a major difference
for operators working.
 A clean workplace keeps Cost down: clean workplace is more organised.
 A clean workplace produces high Quality: Quality is affected whenever the operator is
unhappy with the environment.
 A clean workplace ensures Delivery on time
 A clean workplace is Safe for people to work
 A clean workplace is high in Morale

SAFETY:

th
Safety is now defined as the 6 S of the cycle where operator’s safety is given equal importance
as to their environment. Safety deals with safety equipment’s and first aids and fire exits in place.
Where operators are required to where the safety gloves while cutting or using band knife as to
prevent from any unwanted accident or face mask to prevent from dust. Safety is also having
labelled exit and Fire exit pathways visible in emergency. Regular fire drill practices are
Important to train / or explain the importance of vacating immediately to the operators.

Hence making 5S + Safety concept more operator oriented as well as workplace oriented
benefiting both operators and industry.

Need of the project:

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GAP Demand (Buyer Demand)

 Customers audit:
rd
Internal 3 Party Customer audits are held every Wednesday.
Customers implied on changing the working conditions.
Better toilets and hygiene.

 Messy workplace:
Unorganised workplace report files and
samples. Dirty floors.
Broken trim scissors.
No bins in the workplace area.
Delayed cut bundles due to messy storage.

 Absenteeism due to sickness:

Dirt around the workplace.
Hygiene.
First aid box.

 Unorganised departments:
Late orders due to unorganised departmental workplace
Asked for extended time from the customers.
Delayed cut pieces from cutting department.

 Missing equipment’s and broken/ to be repaired equipment’s:

Cutting departments missing fabric
weight Missing clamps
Missing register records of orders
Broken items like trimmers
Chairs
Sewing machine kept in the workplace

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  Smelly unclean toilets
Lack of Proper Cleanness
 Target problem:
Unable to target the problem
Hard to determine problems within the department and inter department

 Record management:
No proper files/ records/ reports kept in
order Department wise report storage
missing Samples missing
Sample tech packs missing

 Result in time to time / very crucial timely deliveries

Due to fabric inspection
No ahead planning

 Loud shout:
Sewing line supervisors shouting at the operators

Problems faced during implementation:

 Language barrier
 Explaining managers about 5s and safety
 Space / area definition
 Operators unhappy with the new adjustments / not following it
 Not understanding the record methods
 Operators not willing to leave their comfort zone
 No definition of terms: under maintenance, to be repaired, scrap

Steps of implementation:

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  Understanding the need of the project
 Giving a brief in the hierarchy: manager, supervisors, I. E’s
 Reaching to the operators
 Defining the red tag area
 Dustbin placement
 Visuals Placement
 Department wise implementation of 5s
 Marking the area, shifting/rearranging the layout
 Defining red tags, red tag register,5s team, audit list
 Final audit team

CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

Need in the department:

 Relaxation Fabric Looks haphazard

 Pile of fabric under the cutting table, fabric of different order or past order
 Missing equipment’s, like clamps, weight, Seasor
 Recut table with no proper lighting and space
 Extra fabric trolleys
 Extra tables
 Unorganised workflow
 Dirty lights and tables
 No safety procedure followed by workers while cutting
 Medicine box not up to date

Step wise implementation:

 Cleaning workplace area

1. Lights
2. Exhausts
3. Under the table fabric rolls/ storage clean
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 4. Proper equipment placement on each table
5. All equipment’s placed within the yellow marking
6. All walk pathways clean and obstruction free
 Define red tag area and mark red tag area
 Make basic layout changes
 Brief the operators about 5s + safety rules and guidelines
 Observe the changes in the environment
 Sustain the same

5s Audit (Weekly)
Prashanth

Cutting Section
Babu. S (Daily Audit)

Zone A (Cutting) Zone B (Shorting)

5S Champion 5S Champion
Mahadev/ Srinivas Mamta / Kumari

Team Leader Team Leader

1.Mohan Raj 1.Rajeshwari
2.Ranganath 2.Sudha

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 Figure: Training of operators and Supervisors

Why 5S Training?

Like any new discipline or skill it is important to ensure that employees fully understand it and know how
they should implement it. It is unlikely that if this is first 5S program that all the employees are fully
conversant with 5S.

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 BEFORE PICTURE

Figure: Fabric Rolls should be kept uniformly according to size and as per as the
buyer demand it should be in pyramid form.

Figure: Fabric which are being kept for Relaxation are not kept properly

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 Figure: Endbits Rack

Figure: Relaxation Fabric kept of floor

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 Figure: No place/platform for trolley parking

Figure: No fixed place for Dustbin placement

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 Figure: No fixed place for Dustbin placement

Figure: No Specified place for cut part

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 Figure: No Proper Material Handling

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 Figure: Relaxation Fabric kept on the floor.

Figure: No Cleanness of the floor.

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 Figure: No Trolley Dustbin for housekeeping.

Figure: No Width description on fabric rolls.

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 Figure: No cleanness near band knife cutting machines and no floor marking for
machines and dustbins.

AFTER 5s PICTURE

Figure: Fabric Rolls are kept uniformly and in pyramid form.

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 Figure: Fabric which are being kept for Relaxation are kept properly in d designed
relaxation bag on GAP demand.

Figure: EndBit Rack Are segregated according to the buyer wise, and end bits are kept properly.

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 Figure: Denim Fabric Relaxation bag for easy material handling.

Figure: A place for everything and everything in its place (Platform for trolley parking).

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 Figure: A place for everything and everything in its place (Placement of Dustbin)

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 Figure: A place for everything and everything in its place (Platform to keep cutting
tools under the table)

Figure: A place for everything and everything in its place (Place for Stationary
items and numbering m/c)

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 Figure: A place for everything and everything in its place (Place Cutting tools like
Seasors, metal gloves etc.)

Figure: Segregated Racks for Small parts.

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 Figure: Band Knife Machine

Figure: Use of Trolley to move the Fabric.

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 Figure: Red Tag Area

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 5S / VISUAL WORKPLACE AUDIT FORM
Instructions:

1. Scribe reads each statement out loud and records team member’s response in appropriate box. A consensus of
the team members is needed for each response.
2. If team members respond “yes” place a check mark in the “yes” column for that statement.
3. Team members respond “no” place a check mark in the “no” column for that statement.
NOTE: The team can add or delete items from the checklist as appropriate for their area.

Sorting Yes No
Do employees know why these 5S activities are taking place?
Has criteria been established to distinguish necessary from unnecessary items?
Have all unnecessary items been removed from the area? Examples: Excess materials, infrequently used
tools, defective materials, personal items, outdated information, etc.
Do employees understand the procedure for disposing of unnecessary items?
Do employees understand the benefits to be achieved from these activities?
Has a reliable method been developed to prevent unnecessary items from accumulating?
Is there a process for employees to pursue and implement further improvements?
Set In Order Yes No
Is there a visually marked specified place for everything?
Is everything in its specified place?
Is storage well organized and items easily retrievable?
Are items like tools, materials, and supplies conveniently located?
Do employees know where items belong?
Has a process been developed to determine what quantities of each item belongs in the area?
Is it easy to see (with visual sweep) if items are where they are supposed to be?
Are visual aids in use? (For example: signboards, color-coding or outlining).
Shine Yes No
Are work/break areas, offices and conference rooms clean and orderly?
Are floors/carpets swept and free of oil, grease and debris?
Are tools, machinery, and office equipment clean and in good repair?
Is trash removed on a timely basis?
Are manuals, labels, and tags in good condition?
Are demarcation lines clean and unbroken?
Are cleaning materials easily accessible?
Are cleaning guidelines and schedules visible?
Do employees understand expectations?
Standardized Yes No
Are current processes documented?
Do employees have access to information they require?
Is there a method in place to remove outdated material?
Do employees understand the processes that pertain to them?
Does a process exist that enables employees the opportunity to improve existing processes?
Sustain Yes No
Are safety and housekeeping policies followed?
Is safety data posted in appropriate locations?
Are safety risk areas identified?
Are employees wearing appropriate safety apparel?
Are fire extinguishers and hoses in working order?
Is general cleanliness evident?
Are break areas cleaned after use?
Do employees know and observe standard procedures?
Do employees have the training and tools that are necessary to make this program work?
Is there a confident understanding of and adherence to the 5S's?

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Project- 2
Re-Engineering of Cutting Layout

Existing Layout

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 PROPOSED LAYOUT

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