Turkey Travel Guide

Turkey Travel Guide
Contents
1 Turkey 1
1.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.1.2 Geography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.1.3 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.1.4 Holidays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.1.5 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.3 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.4 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.5.1 Visas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.5.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.5.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.5.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.5.5 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.5.6 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.6.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.6.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
1.6.5 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.6.6 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
1.6.7 By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.6.8 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.6.9 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1.7 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.8.1 Ancient ruins and architectural heritage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
1.8.2 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
1.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
i
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1.10 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
1.10.1 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
1.10.2 Currency Exchange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
1.10.3 Credit cards and ATMs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
1.10.4 Tipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
1.10.5 Bargaining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
1.10.6 What to buy? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
1.11 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
1.11.1 Vegetarians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
1.11.2 Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
1.11.3 Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
1.12 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
1.13 Smoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
1.13.1 Smoking ban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
1.14 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.14.1 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.14.2 Hostels and guesthouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.14.3 öğretmenevi - teacher’s house . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.14.4 Agritourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.14.5 Camping and RV-camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
1.15 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
1.16 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
1.17 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
1.17.1 Animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
1.17.2 Tourism Police . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
1.18 Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
1.19 Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
1.19.1 Things to do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
1.19.2 Things to avoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
1.19.3 Other things to watch for . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
1.19.4 Mosques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
1.19.5 Gay and lesbian travellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
1.20 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
1.20.1 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
1.20.2 Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
1.20.3 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
1.20.4 Wi - Fi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
2 Balikesir Province 30
3 Eastern Anatolia 31
3.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
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3.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
3.3.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.10 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.11 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
3.12 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
4 Ani 34
4.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
4.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
4.1.2 Modern History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
4.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
4.2.1 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
4.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
4.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
4.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
4.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
4.6 Eat & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
4.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
5 Ardahan 38
5.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
5.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
6 Battalgazi 39
6.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
6.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
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6.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

6.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
6.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
7 Darende 41
7.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.2 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
7.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
8 Dogubeyazit 42
8.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8.4.1 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
8.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
8.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
8.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
8.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
8.10 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
9 Elazig 45
9.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.2.3 By bus/minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
9.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
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9.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
9.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
10 Erzincan 47
10.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
10.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
11 Erzurum 48
11.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
11.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
12 Hakkari 51
12.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
vi CONTENTS
12.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
12.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
12.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
13 Kars 53
13.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.1.2 Read . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
13.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.10.1 Ani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
13.10.2 Ardahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
13.10.3 Artvin and Hopa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
14 Malatya 56
14.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
14.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
14.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
14.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
14.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
14.4.1 Outer neighbourhoods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
14.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
14.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
CONTENTS vii
14.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
14.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
15 Tatvan 60
15.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
15.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
15.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
16 Tunceli 63
16.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
viii CONTENTS
16.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
16.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
16.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
17 Van 65
17.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.1.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.1.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
17.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
17.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
18 Southeastern Anatolia 68
18.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
18.3.1 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
18.3.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
18.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
18.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
18.12Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
18.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
19 Batman 72
19.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
19.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
19.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
CONTENTS ix
19.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
19.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
19.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
19.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
19.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
19.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
19.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
20 Diyarbakir 74
20.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
20.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
20.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
20.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
20.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
20.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
20.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
20.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
20.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
20.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
21 Gaziantep 78
21.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
21.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
21.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
21.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
21.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
21.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
21.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
22 Hasankeyf 80
22.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
22.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
22.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
22.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
22.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
22.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
x CONTENTS
22.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
22.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
22.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
22.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
23 Hilvan 83
23.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
23.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
24 Kahramanmaras 84
24.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
24.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
24.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
25 Kahta 86
CONTENTS xi
25.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
25.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
25.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
25.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
25.10.1 Mount Nemrut (Nemrut dagi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
26 Mardin 89
26.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
26.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
26.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
26.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
26.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
26.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
26.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
26.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.11.1 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
26.12.1 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
27 Siirt 93
27.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
xii CONTENTS
28 Urfa 94
28.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
28.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
28.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
28.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
28.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
28.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
28.9.1 Homestay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
28.9.2 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
28.9.3 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
28.9.4 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
28.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
28.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
29 Aegean Turkey 99
29.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
29.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
29.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
29.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
29.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
29.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
29.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
29.8.1 Seven Churches of Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
29.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
29.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
29.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
29.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
30 Central Aegean 103

30.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
30.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
30.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
CONTENTS xiii
30.7.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

30.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
30.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
31 Akhisar 105
31.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
31.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
31.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
31.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
31.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
31.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
31.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
32 Alaçatı 107
32.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
32.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
32.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
33 Alaşehir 109
33.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
33.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
xiv CONTENTS
33.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

33.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
33.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
33.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
33.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
33.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
34 Çeşme 111
34.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.2 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
34.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
34.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
34.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
35 Ephesus 113
35.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
35.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
35.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
35.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
35.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
35.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
35.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
35.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
35.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
35.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
35.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
36 Foça 115
36.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
36.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
36.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
36.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
36.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
CONTENTS xv
36.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

36.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
36.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
36.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
36.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
36.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
37 Ilica 117
37.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
37.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
38 Izmir 118
38.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
38.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
38.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
38.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
38.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.2.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3.2 By metro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
38.3.5 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
38.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
38.10Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
38.10.1 Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
xvi CONTENTS
38.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

38.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
39 Kusadasi 123
39.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.5.1 Beach life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
39.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
39.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
39.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
39.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
39.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
40 Manisa 125
40.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
40.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
41 Sardis 127
41.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.2 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
41.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
41.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
CONTENTS xvii
41.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

41.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
42 Selçuk 129
42.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
42.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
43 Şirince 132
43.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
43.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
44 Northern Aegean 134

44.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
44.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
44.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
44.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
44.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
xviii CONTENTS
44.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

44.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
45 Akçay 136
45.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.9.1 Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
45.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
46 Altinoluk 137
46.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.8.1 Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
46.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
47 Assos 138
47.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
47.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
47.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
47.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
47.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
47.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
CONTENTS xix
47.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
47.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
48 Ayvalik 140
48.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
48.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
48.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
48.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
48.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
48.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
49 Babakale 143
49.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
49.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
49.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
49.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
49.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
50 Bergama 145
50.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
xx CONTENTS
50.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

50.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
50.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
50.4.1 Akropol (Acropolis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
50.4.2 Asklepion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
50.4.3 Red Basilica (Kızıl Avlu) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
50.4.4 Archaeology Museum (Arkeoloji Muzesi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
50.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
50.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
50.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
50.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
50.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
50.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
50.9.2 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
50.9.3 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
50.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
51 Burhaniye 150
51.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
51.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
52 Dikili 151
52.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
52.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
53 Edremit 153
53.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
CONTENTS xxi
53.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

53.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
53.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
54 Güre 154
54.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.8.1 Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
54.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
55 Southern Aegean 155

55.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
55.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
55.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
55.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
55.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
55.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
56 Akyaka 157
56.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
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56.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157

56.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
56.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
57 Aphrodisias 158
57.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
57.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.2.1 By bus tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.2.3 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5.1 Aphrodisias Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5.2 Temple of Aphrodite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5.3 Sarcophagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5.4 Bouleuterion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
57.5.5 Sebasteion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.5.6 Stadium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.5.7 Agora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.5.8 Bathhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.5.9 Inscriptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.8.1 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
57.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
58 Bitez 162
58.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
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58.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

58.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
58.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
59 Bodrum 163
59.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
59.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.1.2 Mausoleum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.1.3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
59.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
59.4.1 Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
59.4.2 Museums and Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
59.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
59.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
59.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
59.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
59.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
59.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
59.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
59.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
60 Datca 169
60.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.1.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
60.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
60.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
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61 Denizli 171
61.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
61.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
61.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
61.1.3 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
61.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
61.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
61.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
61.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
61.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
61.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
61.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
61.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
62 Gumusluk 174
62.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
62.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
62.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
62.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
63 Muğla 176
63.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
63.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
CONTENTS xxv
64 Pamukkale 178
64.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
64.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
64.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
64.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
64.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
64.2.4 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
64.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
64.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
64.4.1 Travertines and Hierapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
64.4.2 Other sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
64.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
64.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
64.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
64.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
64.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
64.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
65 Turgutreis 182
65.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
65.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
66 Yalikavak 183
66.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
66.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
xxvi CONTENTS
67 Black Sea Turkey 184

67.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
67.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
67.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
67.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
68 Central Karadeniz 186

68.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
68.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
69 Amasya 187
69.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.3.1 Harşena hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
69.3.2 Old town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
69.3.3 City center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
69.3.4 Surrounding area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.3.5 Day trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
CONTENTS xxvii
69.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
69.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
70 Bogazkale 192
70.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
70.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
71 Ordu 193
71.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
71.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
72 Samsun 194
72.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
72.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
72.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
xxviii CONTENTS
72.5.1 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195

72.5.2 Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
72.5.3 Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
72.6 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.11.1 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
72.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
73 Tokat 197
73.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
73.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
73.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
74 Çorum 199
74.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
74.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
75 Eastern Karadeniz 200

CONTENTS xxix
75.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

75.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
75.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
75.4.1 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
75.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.8.1 Trabzon Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.8.2 Rize Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
75.8.3 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
75.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
75.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
75.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
75.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
75.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
76 Ayder 203
76.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
76.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
77 Giresun 204
77.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
77.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
xxx CONTENTS
77.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
77.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
78 Rize 206
78.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
78.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
78.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
78.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
78.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
78.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
79 Sürmene 208
79.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.2 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
79.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
80 Torul 209
80.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
80.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
81 Trabzon 210
81.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
CONTENTS xxxi
81.1.1 Tourist office . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

81.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
81.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
81.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
81.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
81.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
81.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
81.4.1 Churches and Mosques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
81.4.2 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
81.4.3 Mansions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
81.4.4 Further afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
81.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
81.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
81.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
81.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
81.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
81.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
81.10.1 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
81.11Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
81.11.1 Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
81.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
82 Western Karadeniz 216

82.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
82.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
82.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
82.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
82.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
83 Akçakoca 218
83.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
xxxii CONTENTS
83.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

83.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
83.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
84 Amasra 219
84.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
84.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
85 Bolu 220
85.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
85.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
86 Boyabat 221
86.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
86.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
87 Ilgaz National Park 222

CONTENTS xxxiii
87.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

87.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
87.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.10.1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.10.2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.10.3 Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
87.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
88 Kastamonu 224
88.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
88.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
88.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
88.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
88.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
88.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
88.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
89 Safranbolu 227
89.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
89.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
89.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
89.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
89.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
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89.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

89.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
89.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
89.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
90 Sinop 229
90.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
90.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
90.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
91 Zonguldak 231
91.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
91.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
92 Central Anatolia 232

92.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
92.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
92.3.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
92.3.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
92.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
92.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
92.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
CONTENTS xxxv
92.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
92.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
93 Çankırı 235
93.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
93.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
94 Çatalhöyük 236
94.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.1.3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
94.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
94.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
95 Çavdarhisar 238
95.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
95.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
95.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
95.2.1 By bus and minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
95.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
95.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
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95.4 See and Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

95.5 Buy, Eat, and Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
95.6 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
95.7 Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
95.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
95.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
96 Afyonkarahisar 243
96.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
96.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
96.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
97 Aksaray 245
97.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
97.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
98 Ankara 246
98.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
98.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
98.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
98.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
98.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
98.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
98.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
CONTENTS xxxvii
98.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248

98.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
98.3.2 By Metro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
98.3.3 By Suburban Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
98.3.4 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
98.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
98.4.1 Holy Places . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
98.4.2 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
98.4.3 Archaeological Remains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
98.4.4 Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
98.4.5 Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
98.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
98.5.1 Parks and Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
98.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
98.6.1 Malls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
98.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
98.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
98.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
98.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
98.9.2 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
98.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
98.11Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
98.11.1 Embassies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
98.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
99 Eskişehir 257
99.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
99.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
99.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
99.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
99.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
99.6 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
99.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
99.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
99.8.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
xxxviii CONTENTS
99.8.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

99.8.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.10.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.10.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.10.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.11.1 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.13Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
99.14Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
100Kütahya 261
100.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
100.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
100.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
100.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
100.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
100.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
100.2.4 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
100.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
100.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
100.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
100.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
100.6.1 Banks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
100.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
100.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
100.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
100.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
100.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
101Kayseri 265
101.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
101.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
CONTENTS xxxix
101.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
101.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
102Kemerhisar 267
102.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
102.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
103Konya 268
103.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
103.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
103.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
103.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
103.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
103.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
103.2.5 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
103.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
103.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
103.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
103.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
103.6.1 Malls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
103.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
103.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
103.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
103.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
xl CONTENTS
103.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

103.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
103.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
104Sandıklı 274
104.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.1.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.1.4 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
104.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
105Sivas 275
105.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
105.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.3.2 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.7.1 Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.7.2 Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
105.11.1Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
CONTENTS xli
106Cappadocia 278
106.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
106.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
106.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
106.3Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.4Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.4.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.4.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.4.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.5Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.6See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279
106.6.1 Underground cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
106.7Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
106.8Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
106.9Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
106.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
106.11Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
106.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
107Cavusin 283
107.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
107.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
108Göreme 284
108.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
108.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
108.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
108.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
108.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
108.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
108.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
108.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
108.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
108.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
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108.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
108.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
108.9.2 Mid Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
108.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
108.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289
109Güzelyurt 290
109.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
109.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
110Nevsehir 291
110.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
110.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
110.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
110.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
110.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
110.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
110.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
110.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
110.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
110.6Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
110.7Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
111Ürgüp 293
111.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.2.3 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
111.4.1 Of the city centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
111.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
CONTENTS xliii
111.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
111.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
111.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
111.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
111.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
111.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
112Uçhisar 297
112.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
112.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
113Marmara (region) 299

113.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
113.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
113.3.1 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
113.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.6.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.7.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
113.7.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.7.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.7.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
113.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
xliv CONTENTS
113.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
114Bursa Province 302
115Eastern Marmara 303

115.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.7.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
115.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
115.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
115.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
115.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
116Eskihisar 305
116.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.1.2 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.1.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
116.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
116.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
117Izmit 307
117.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.1.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.1.3 By coach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
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117.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
117.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
118Iznik 309
118.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
118.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
118.2.1 By minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
118.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
118.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
118.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
118.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
118.3.1 Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
118.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
118.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
118.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
118.6.1 Tiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
118.6.2 Banks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
118.6.3 Supermarkets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
118.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
118.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
118.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
118.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
118.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
119Osmaneli 313
119.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
119.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
119.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
119.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
119.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
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119.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
119.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
120Yalova 315
120.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.1.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.1.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.1.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
120.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
120.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
120.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
120.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
120.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
120.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
120.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
121Eastern Thrace 318

121.1Provinces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
121.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
121.2.1 Istranca Mountains and Black Sea coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
121.2.2 Thracian Plains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
121.2.3 Marmara and Aegean coasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
121.3.1 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
121.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
121.4.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
121.4.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
121.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
121.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
121.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.7.1 By bus/minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.7.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.7.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.7.4 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
121.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
121.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
121.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
121.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
121.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
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121.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
122Çerkezköy 323
122.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.2.2 By bus and minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
122.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
122.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
122.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
123Çorlu 325
123.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
123.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
123.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
123.1.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
123.1.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
123.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.9Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
123.10Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
123.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
123.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
124Demirkoy 328
124.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
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124.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
124.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
124.11.1Dupnisa Cave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
125Eceabat 330
125.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
125.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
126Edirne 331
126.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
126.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
126.1.2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.1.3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
126.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
126.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
126.4.1 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
126.4.2 Northwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
126.4.3 Southwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
126.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
126.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
126.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
126.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
126.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
126.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
CONTENTS xlix
126.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
126.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
126.12.1Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
126.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
127Enez 339
127.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
127.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
127.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
127.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
127.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
127.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.11Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
127.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
128Gallipoli 341
128.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
128.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
128.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
128.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
128.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
128.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342
128.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
128.6Eat & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
128.7Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
128.8Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
128.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
129Gelibolu 344
129.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
l CONTENTS
129.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
129.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345
129.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345
129.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345
130Gokceada 346
130.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
130.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
130.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
130.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
130.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.10Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.11.1Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
130.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
131Keşan 349
131.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.1.1 by car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.1.2 by bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
131.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
132Kirklareli 350
CONTENTS li
132.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
132.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
133Kiyikoy 351
133.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
133.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352
134Marmara Ereğlisi 353

134.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.2.1 By bus/minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
134.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
134.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
134.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
134.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
134.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
lii CONTENTS
134.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354

134.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
134.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
135Tekirdağ 355
135.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
135.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
135.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
135.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
135.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
135.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
135.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
135.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
135.2.6 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
135.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
135.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358
135.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359
135.6Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
135.7Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
135.7.1 Malls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
135.8Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
135.8.1 Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
135.9Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
135.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
135.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.11.1Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.11.2Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.11.3Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.13Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
135.14Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
135.14.1Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
135.15Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
135.15.1By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
136Uzunköprü 365
136.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
CONTENTS liii
136.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
136.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
136.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
137Vize 367
137.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
137.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
137.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
138Şarköy District 369

138.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
138.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
138.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370
139Istanbul Atatürk Airport 371

139.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
139.1.1 Visa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
139.2Flights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
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139.3Ground transportation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371

139.3.1 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
139.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
139.3.3 By light rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
139.4Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.5Wait . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.6Eat and Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.7Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.8Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.9Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
139.11Nearby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
140Polonezkoy 373
140.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373
140.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
140.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
140.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
140.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
140.10.1Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
140.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
141Istanbul 375
141.1Districts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375
141.2Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375
141.2.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375
141.2.2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
141.2.3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
141.3Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
141.3.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
141.3.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
141.3.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
141.3.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
141.3.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
141.4Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
141.4.1 Istanbulkart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
CONTENTS lv
141.4.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381

141.4.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381
141.4.4 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382
141.4.5 By shared taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
141.4.6 Disabled travellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
141.5See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
141.5.1 Tulips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
141.6Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
141.6.1 Hamams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
141.6.2 Nargile (Hooka/Water Pipe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
141.6.3 Walking tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
141.6.4 The Classic Bosphorus Cruise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
141.6.5 Football . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
141.7Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
141.7.1 TEFL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
141.7.2 Ottoman Turkish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
141.8Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
141.9Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
141.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
141.10.1Snacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
141.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390
141.12Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
141.13Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
141.13.1Telephone codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
141.13.2SIM Cards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
141.13.3Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391
141.14Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
141.14.1Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
141.14.2Overpricing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
141.14.3Stalking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
141.14.4Tourism Police . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
141.15Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
141.16Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
141.16.1Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
141.17Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395
141.17.1Possible hitchhiking spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
142Istanbul/Asian Side 398

142.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
142.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
142.2.1 From outside of Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
142.2.2 From the rest of Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399
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142.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400

142.3.1 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.3.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.3.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.3.4 By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.3.5 By tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
142.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
142.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
142.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
142.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
142.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
142.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.9.2 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
142.10.1Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
143Istanbul/Bosphorus 405
143.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
143.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
143.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
143.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407
143.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.6.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.6.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.6.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408
143.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
143.8.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
143.8.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
143.8.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
143.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
143.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
143.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
144Istanbul/Galata 411
144.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411
CONTENTS lvii
144.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
144.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
144.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
144.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
144.5.1 Jewish Heritage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
144.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
144.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
144.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
144.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
144.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416
144.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416
144.8.1 Cafés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
144.8.2 Hooka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
144.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
144.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
144.9.2 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418
144.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418
144.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419
144.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419
145Istanbul/Golden Horn 420

145.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
145.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
145.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
145.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
145.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421
145.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.8.1 Cafés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
145.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422
146Istanbul/New City 423

146.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
146.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
146.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423
146.3.1 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
146.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
146.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
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146.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
146.6.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
146.6.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
146.6.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.7.1 Adult entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.8.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.8.2 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.8.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
146.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
147Istanbul/Princes’ Islands 426

147.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426
147.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
147.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
147.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
147.3.1 On the islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
147.3.2 Between the islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
147.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
147.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
147.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430
147.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430
148Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old City 431

148.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
148.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
148.2.1 By tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
148.2.2 By metro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431
148.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.2.5 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.2.6 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.3.1 By tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.3.2 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
148.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
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148.4.1 Around Sultanahmet Square . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433

148.4.2 Elsewhere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436
148.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438
148.5.1 Hamams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438
148.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439
148.6.1 Mall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
148.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
148.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
148.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
148.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
148.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
148.8.1 Cafés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
148.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442
148.9.1 Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442
148.9.2 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442
148.9.3 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443
148.9.4 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445
148.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
148.10.1Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
148.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
148.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
148.12.1Laundry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
149Istanbul/Western Suburbs 447

149.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2.3 By metro/tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2.4 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447
149.2.5 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
149.2.6 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
149.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
149.3.1 Büyükçekmece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
149.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.6.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.6.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.6.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
149.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
lx CONTENTS
149.8.1 Caravan park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

149.9Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
149.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
150Southern Marmara 451

150.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451
150.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451
150.3.1 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451
150.3.2 Bird Paradise National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451
150.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
150.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
151Çanakkale 453
151.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
151.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
151.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
151.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
151.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
151.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.2.4 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
151.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
151.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
151.9.2 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
151.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
151.10Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
151.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
CONTENTS lxi
152Armutlu (Marmara) 456

152.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.1.2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.2.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
152.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
152.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
152.4See and Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
152.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
152.6Eat and Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
152.7Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
152.8Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
152.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
153Balikesir 459
153.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.1.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.1.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.1.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
153.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
153.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460
154Bandirma 461
154.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.1.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
lxii CONTENTS
154.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
154.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461
155Bozcaada 462
155.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
155.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
155.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
155.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
155.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
155.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
155.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
155.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
155.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
155.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
155.6.1 Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.8.1 Local drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.8.2 Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
155.10Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
155.11Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
155.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
155.12.1Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
155.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
156Bursa 466
156.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
156.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466
156.1.2 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467
156.1.3 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467
156.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467
156.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467
156.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
156.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
156.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
156.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468
156.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
156.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
156.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470
CONTENTS lxiii
156.5.1 Turkish Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470

156.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
156.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472
156.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472
156.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472
157Erdek 473
157.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.9.1 Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
157.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474
157.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474
158Gönen 475
158.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
158.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
159Gemlik 476
lxiv CONTENTS
159.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476
159.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477
159.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477
160Geyikli 478
160.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
160.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
160.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
160.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
160.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
160.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
160.4.1 Alexandria Troas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
160.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
160.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
161Kumla (Turkey) 481

161.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.1.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.2See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.3Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.4Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.5Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.6Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.7Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
161.8Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
CONTENTS lxv
162Sindirgi 482
162.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
162.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
163Troy (Turkey) 483

163.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 483
163.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484
163.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485
163.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485
164Uludağ 486
164.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
164.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
164.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
164.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486
164.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
164.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
164.3Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
164.4Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.5See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.6Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.6.1 Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.6.2 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.7Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.8Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488
164.9Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
lxvi CONTENTS
164.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
164.10.1Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
164.10.2Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
164.10.3Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
164.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
164.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490
165Marmara Islands 491

165.1Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.2Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
165.13Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
165.14Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
166Avsa 493
166.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.2Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.3Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.4Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.5See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.6Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
166.7Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.8Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.9Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
166.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494
167Marmara (island) 495

167.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
167.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
CONTENTS lxvii
167.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495

167.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
167.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
167.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
167.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
167.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
167.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
167.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
167.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
168Mediterranean Turkey 497

168.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497
168.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497
168.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
168.4.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
168.4.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
168.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
168.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
168.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.7.1 By public transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.7.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 499
168.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
168.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
168.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
168.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
169Cilician Mountains 501

169.1Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501
169.3Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.3.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.4Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.5Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.5.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.5.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.5.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
169.5.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.5.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
lxviii CONTENTS
169.6Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503

169.6.1 By bus/minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.6.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.6.3 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.7See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.8Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.9Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.11Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.13Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.14Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503
169.15Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
169.16Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
170Anamur 505
170.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
170.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
170.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
170.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
170.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
170.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
170.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
170.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
170.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
170.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
170.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
170.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
170.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
170.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
170.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
171Aydincik 508
171.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.1.1 by car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.1.2 by bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
CONTENTS lxix
171.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
171.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
172Narlıkuyu 509
172.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509
172.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
172.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
172.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
172.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
172.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
173Silifke 511
173.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.1.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.1.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511
173.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
173.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
173.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
174Tasucu 513
174.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.1.1 by minibus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.1.2 by car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
lxx CONTENTS
174.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
174.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
175Cilician Plains 514

175.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
175.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
175.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
175.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
175.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514
175.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
175.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
176Adana 516
176.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
176.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
176.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
176.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
176.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
176.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.4.1 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
176.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518
176.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518
176.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518
176.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518
176.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518
177Incirlik 520
177.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
CONTENTS lxxi
177.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
177.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
178Mersin 521
178.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
178.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
178.2.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
178.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
178.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
178.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
178.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
179Tarsus 524
179.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
179.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
180Hatay 525
180.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
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180.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.6.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.6.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.6.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
180.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.12Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.14Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
180.15Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
181Antakya 527
181.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
181.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
181.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
181.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
181.2.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
181.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
181.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
181.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
181.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
181.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
181.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529
181.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529
181.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529
181.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529
182Iskenderun 530
182.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.2.1 by air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.2.2 by train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.2.3 by car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
CONTENTS lxxiii
182.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
182.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
183Lakes District 531

183.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.6.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
183.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
184Akşehir 532
184.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532
184.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
184.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
184.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
184.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
184.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
184.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
185Burdur 534
185.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
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185.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
185.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
185.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534
185.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
185.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
186Lycia 536
186.1Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
186.2Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
186.4Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.5Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.6Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.6.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.6.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.6.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.6.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.7Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.7.1 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
186.7.2 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.8See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.8.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.9Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
186.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
187Beldibi 539
187.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
187.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
187.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
187.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
187.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
187.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
187.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
187.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
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187.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
187.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
187.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540
188Dalaman 541
188.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.1.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.1.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
188.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
188.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
189Dalyan 543
189.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
189.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
189.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
189.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
189.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
189.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544
189.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544
189.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544
189.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544
190Demre 545
190.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
190.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546
191Elmali 547
191.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
191.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
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191.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547

191.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
191.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547
191.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
191.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
191.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
191.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
191.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
191.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
192Faralya 549
192.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
192.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
192.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
192.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550
192.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550
192.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550
192.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
192.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
192.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
192.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
192.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
192.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
193Fethiye 553
193.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.1.1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
193.2.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.3.1 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.3.2 By motercycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
193.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
193.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
193.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
193.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
CONTENTS lxxvii
193.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555

193.9.2 Mid range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
193.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
193.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
194Göcek 557
194.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557
194.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
194.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559
194.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559
194.11.1Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559
194.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559
195Kabak 560
195.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560
195.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560
195.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.4See and Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.4.1 Waterfalls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.6Eat and Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.7Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
195.8Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562
195.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 563
196Kalkan 564
196.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 564
196.1.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 564
196.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 564
196.1.3 By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 564
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196.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565

196.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565
196.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565
196.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565
196.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
196.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
196.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
196.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
197Kayaköy 567
197.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567
197.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567
197.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567
197.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567
197.4.1 Afkule and Gemile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
197.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
197.5.1 Hiking to Cold Water Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
197.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
197.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
197.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
197.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
197.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
197.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
198Kaş 570
198.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
198.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
198.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
198.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570
198.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571
198.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571
198.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
198.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
198.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
198.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
198.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574
199Kemer 575
199.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
199.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
199.2.1 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
199.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
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199.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575

199.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
199.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
199.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
199.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
199.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
199.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
199.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
199.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
200Kınık 577
200.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.2.3 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577
200.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
200.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
201Marmaris 579
201.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579
201.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579
201.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579
201.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580
201.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580
201.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
201.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
201.7.1 Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
201.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
201.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
201.9.1 Nearby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 582
202Ölüdeniz 583
202.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
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202.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
202.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
202.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
202.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
202.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
202.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584
203Olympos (Turkey) 585

203.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585
203.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585
203.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585
203.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
203.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
203.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
203.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
203.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
203.9Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587
203.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587
204Pamphylia 588
204.1Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.3Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.4Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.5Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.5.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.5.2 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
204.6Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.6.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.6.2 By thumb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.7See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.8Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.9Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
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204.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
204.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
205Alanya 590
205.1Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
205.2Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
205.3See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
205.4Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
205.5Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
205.6Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
205.7Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
205.8Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
205.9Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
206Antalya 593
206.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
206.1.1 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
206.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
206.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
206.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3.2 By dolmuş . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3.3 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3.4 By tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
206.3.5 By car rental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
206.3.6 By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
206.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
206.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
206.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
206.6.1 A word of caution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
206.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
206.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
206.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
206.9.1 Old Town/Kaleiçi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596
206.9.2 Lara Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 597
206.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 597
206.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
206.11.1Southwest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
206.11.2East . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
lxxxii CONTENTS
206.11.3North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
206.11.4Further away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
206.11.5Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
207Belek 599
207.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
207.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
208Manavgat 600
208.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600
208.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600
208.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600
208.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600
208.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
208.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
209Side 602
209.1Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
209.2Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
209.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
209.4See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
209.5Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.6Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.7Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.8Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.9Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
209.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
CONTENTS lxxxiii
209.12Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604

209.12.1Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604
209.12.2Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613
209.12.3Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 625
Chapter 1
Turkey
For other places with the same name, see Turkey ish alphabet using Rona characters was one of many per-
(disambiguation). sonal initiatives of the founder of the Turkish Republic,
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. In 1945 Turkey joined the UN,
and in 1952 it became a member of NATO.
Turkey (Turkish: Türkiye) is on the Mediterranean, in
the Anatolian region of West Asia, with a small section
in Southeastern Europe separated by the Turkish Straits
1.1.2 Geography
(Bosphorus, Sea of Marmara, and Dardanelles) from
Asia. With the Black Sea to the north and the Aegean
Turkey occupies a landmass slightly larger than Texas, at
Sea in the west and Mediterranean Sea to the southwest,
just over 750,000 square kilometres, and is more than
Turkey is surrounded by Bulgaria and Greece to the west,
three times the size of the United Kingdom. In terms of
Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia to the northeast, Syria,
the variety of terrain and particularly the diversity of its
Iraq and Iran to the southeast. While geographically most
plant life, however, Turkey exhibits the characteristics of
of the country is situated in Asia, most locals in Turkey
a small continent. There are, for example, some 10,000
consider themselves to be Europeans.
plant species in the country (compared with some 13,000
Turkey offers a wealth of destination varieties to trav- in all of Europe) — one in three of which is endemic
ellers: from dome-and-minaret filled skyline of Istanbul to Turkey. Indeed, there are more species in Istanbul
to Roman ruins along the western and southern coasts, Province (2,000) than in the whole of the United King-
from heavily indented coastline against a mountainous dom. While many people know of Turkey’s rich archae-
backdrop of Lycia and wide and sunny beaches of ological heritage, it possesses an equally valuable array of
Pamphylia to cold and snowy mountains of the East, ecosystems — peat bogs, heath lands, steppes, and coastal
from crazy “foam parties” of Bodrum to Middle Eastern- plains. Turkey possesses much forest (about a quarter of
flavoured cities of Southeastern Anatolia, from verdant the land) but, as importantly, some half of the country is
misty mountains of Eastern Black Sea to wide steppe semi-natural landscape that has not been entirely remod-
landscapes of Central Anatolia, there is something for ev- elled by man.
eryone’s taste—whether they be travelling on an extreme
budget by hitchhiking or by a multi-million yacht.
1.1.3 Culture
While it may sound like a tourism brochure cliché, Turkey

1.1 Understand really is a curious mix of the west and the east—you may
swear you were in a Balkan country or in Greece when
1.1.1 History in northwestern and western parts of the country (except
that Byzantine-influenced churches are substituted with
There is evidence that the bed of the Black Sea was once Byzantine-influenced mosques), which are indeed partly
an inhabited plain, before it was flooded in prehistoric inhabited by people from Balkan countries, who immi-
times by rising sea levels. Mount Ararat (Ağrı Dağı), at grated during the turmoil before, during, and after WWI,
5,165m, is Turkey’s highest point and the legendary land- while southeastern reaches of the country exhibit little if
ing place of Noah’s Ark on the far eastern edge of the any cultural differences from Turkey’s southern and east-
country. ern neighbours. Influences from the Caucasus add to the
Turkey was founded in 1923 from the remnants of the mix in the northeast part of the country. It can be simply
Ottoman Empire. Soon thereafter the country instituted put that Turkey is the most oriental of western nations,
secular laws to replace traditional religious fiats and many or, depending on the point of view, the most occidental
other radical reforms designed to rapidly modernise the of eastern nations.
state. Changing from Arabic script to the 29-letter Turk- Perhaps one thing common to all of the country is Islam,
1
2 CHAPTER 1. TURKEY
the faith of the bulk of the population. However, inter- • 19 May: Atatürk Commemoration and Youth &
pretation of it varies vastly across the country: many peo- Sports Holiday (Atatürk'ü Anma Gençlik ve Spor
ple in northwestern and western coasts are fairly liberal Bayramı) — the arrival of Atatürk in Samsun, and
about the religion (being nominal Muslims sometimes to the beginning of the War of Independence
the point of being irreligious), while folk of the central
steppes are far more conservative (don't expect to find a • 30 August: Victory Day (Zafer Bayramı) — Cele-
Saudi Arabia or an Afghanistan even there, though). The bration of the end of the war for Turkish Indepen-
rest of the country falls somewhere in between, with the dence over invasion forces. A big Armed Forces day
coastal regions being relatively liberal while inland re- and display of military might by huge military pa-
gions are relatively conservative as a general rule. The rades.
largest religious minority in the country are the Ale-
vites, who constitute up to 20% of the population and who • 29 October: Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı or
subscribe to a form of Islam closer to that of the Shiite Ekim Yirmidokuz) is anniversary of the declaration
version of Islam and practice Shamanistic rituals of an- of Turkish Republic. If it falls on a Thursday for
cient Turks. Other religious minorities—the Greek Or- example, Friday and the weekend should be con-
thodox, Armenian Apostolic, Jews, Syriac Oriental Or- sidered in your travel plans. October 29 is the of-
thodox, and Roman Catholics, the latter of whom mainly ficial end of the tourist season in many resorts in
settled in Turkey within the last 500 years from Western Mediterranean Turkey and usually there is a huge
European countries—once numerous across the country, celebration at the town squares.
are now mostly confined to the large cities of Istanbul and
• 10 November, 09:05 — Traffic usually stops and
Izmir, or parts of Southeastern Anatolia in the case of
sirens blare for two minutes starting at 09:05, the
the Syriac Oriental Orthodox. Despite its large Muslim
time when Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Repub-
majority population, Turkey officially remains a secular
lic, died in Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul in 1938.
country, with no declared state religion.
That moment in time is officially observed through-
out the country but businesses and official places are
not closed for the day. However, do not be surprised
1.1.4 Holidays if you are on the street, you hear a loud boom and all
of a sudden people and traffic stop on the sidewalks
The savvy traveller should remember that when travel- and streets for a moment of silence in observance of
ling into, in or around Turkey there are several holidays this event.
to keep in mind as they can cause delays in travel, traf-
fic congestion, booked up accommodations and crowded
venues. Banks, offices and businesses are closed during Religious holidays
official holidays and traffic intensifies during all of the
following holidays so do your research before you visit. Ramadan (Ramazan in Turkish) is a month long time of
Do not be put off by these holidays, it is not that diffi- fasting, prayer and celebration during which pious Mus-
cult and often quite interesting to travel during Turkish lims neither drink nor eat anything, even water, from sun
holidays, simply plan ahead as much as possible. up to sun down. Businesses, banks and official places
are not closed during this time. In some parts of Turkey,
such as most of inland and eastern locations as locals are
Official holidays more conservative than people in the rest of the coun-
try, it is considered to be bad taste to eat snacks or drink
• 1 January: New Year’s Day (Yılbaşı) sodas in front of locals in public places or transport—
to be completely on the safe side, watch how local folk
act—but restaurants are usually open and it is no prob-
• 23 April: National Sovereignty and Children’s Day lem to eat in them as usual, though some restaurant own-
(Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı) — anniver- ers use it as an opportunity for a much-needed vacation
sary of the establishment of the Turkish Grand Na- (or renovation) and shut their business completely for 30
tional Assembly days. However, you will unlikely see any closed establish-
ment in big cities, central parts of the cities, and touristy
• 1 May: Labour and Solidarity Day (Emek ve towns of western and southern Turkey. At sunset, call
Dayanışma Günü, also unofficially known as İşçi for prayer and a cannon boom, fasting observers immedi-
Bayramı, i.e. Worker’s Day) was long banned as a ately sit down for iftar, their first meal of the day. Banks,
holiday for almost 40 years and only restarted as a businesses and official places are NOT closed during this
national holiday in 2009 because in years past it usu- time.
ally degenerated into violence. The wary traveller During Ramadan, many city councils set up tent-like
would be advised to not get caught in the middle of structures in the major squares of the cities that are espe-
a May Day parade or gathering. cially aimed and served for the needy, for those in poverty
1.1. UNDERSTAND 3
or who are elderly or handicapped, and are also served for rain during the sunny and hot summer (May to Octo-
passers by, with warm meals during the sunset (iftar), free ber). Winters are mild and rainy in these regions, and
of charge (much like soup kitchens, instead serving full it very rarely snows at coastal areas, with the exception of
meals). Iftar is a form of charity that is very rewarding mountainous areas higher than 2000 metres of these re-
especially when feeding someone who is needy. It was gions, which are very snowy and are frequently not pass-
first practised by the Prophet Muhammad during the ad- able. The water temperature in the Aegean and Mediter-
vent of Islam, for that purpose. Travellers are welcome ranean Seas is warm during the long summer season (May
to join, but do not take advantage of it during the entire to October) which constitutes the swimming season and
fasting period, just because it is free of charge. fluctuates between 23° and 28°C from north to south.
Immediately following Ramazan is the Eid-ul Fitr, or The region around the Sea of Marmara, including
the three-day national holiday of Ramazan Bayramı, also Istanbul, has a transitional climate between an oceanic
called Şeker Bayramı (i.e. “Sugar” or more precisely climate and a semi-Mediterranean climate, but it does
“Candy Festival”) during which banks, offices and busi- rain, albeit not a lot, during the very warm summer (as
nesses are closed and travel will be heavy. However, showers which tend to last for 15-30 minutes). Its winters
many restaurants, cafés and bars will be open. are colder than those of the western and southern coasts.
Kurban Bayrami (pronounced koor-BAHN bahy-rah- Snow is common at coastal areas, although it doesn't stay
muh) in Turkish, (Eid el-Adha in Arabic) or sacrifice on the ground for long and is limited to only a few days
holiday is the most important Islamic religious festival every winter. The water temperature in the Sea of Mar-
of the year. It lasts for several days and is a public holi- mara is also colder than the Aegean and Mediterranean
day in Turkey. Almost everything will be closed during Seas, with the water temperature reaching only between
that time (many restaurants, cafes, bars and some small 20° and 24°C during the summer (June, July and August)
shops will be open however). Kurban Bayrami is also the and the swimming season is restricted to those summer
time of the annual pilgrimage (Hajj) to Mecca, so both months.
domestic and international travel is intense in Turkey at The Black Sea region has an oceanic climate (thanks to
this time. If you are in smaller towns or villages you may the protective shield effect of Caucasus mountains) with
even observe an animal, usually a goat but sometimes a the greatest amount of precipitation and is the only region
cow, being slaughtered in a public place. In recent years of Turkey that receives high precipitation throughout the
the Turkish government has cracked down on these unof- year. The eastern part of that coast averages 2,500mm
ficial slaughterings so it is not as common as it once was. annually which is the highest precipitation in the country.
The dates of these religious festivals change according to Summers are warm and humid while the winters are cool
the Muslim lunar calendar and thus occur 10-11 days (the and damp. Snow is common at coastal areas, although it
exact difference between Gregorian and Lunar calendars doesn’t stay on the ground for long and is limited to only a
is 10 days and 21 hr) earlier each year. According to this, few days every winter, though mountains are very snowy
as it is expected to be and are frequently not passable,
there are glaciers around the year in the highest zones.
• Şeker/Ramazan Bayramı The water temperature in the whole Turkish Black Sea
coast is always cool and fluctuates between 10° and 20°C
• Kurban Bayramı continues for four days throughout the year, and is even less suitable for swim-
ming during the summer than in the Sea of Marmara.
During both religious holidays, many cities (but not all) Most of the coastal areas have a high level of relative hu-
provide public transport for free (but note that these do midity during most of the year which makes hot weather
not include privately owned minibuses, dolmuşes, taxis, feel hotter and cold weather feel colder than it actually is.
or inter-city buses). This depends on the place and time.
Interior areas like Ankara, generally have hot summers
For example, Istanbul's public transport authority pro-
(though the nights are cool enough to make someone who
vided free transport in Eid-ul Fitr 2008, but not in Eid-ul
is wearing only a thin t-shirt uncomfortable outdoors) and
Adha 2008 when its passengers had to pay a discounted
cold and snowy winters. The more easterly the location
rate. For some years, it was all free in both holidays, while
is, the colder the winters are and the heavier the snow is.
in some others there was no discount at all. To be sure,
The northeastern part (around Erzurum and Kars) is the
check whether other passengers use a ticket/token or not.
only inland area which has cool and rainy summers.
The southeastern region near the Syrian border has a
1.1.5 Climate desert-like climate, temperature is frequently above 40°C
during summers with no rain. Snowfall is occasional in
The climate in Turkey has a vast diversity depending on winter.
the diverse topography and latitude.
Aegean and Mediterranean coastal areas enjoy the typ-
ical Mediterranean climate. There is hardly a drop of
4 CHAPTER 1. TURKEY
1.2 Regions
Turkey regions - Color-coded map

Over the turquoise waters in Ölüdeniz
• Cappadocia — an area in the central highlands best

1.3 Cities known for its unique moon-like landscape (the “fairy
chimneys”), underground cities, cave churches and
• Ankara — the capital of Turkey and its second houses carved in the rocks
largest city
• Ephesus — well-preserved ruins of the Roman city
• Antalya — the fastest growing city, hub to an array on the west coast
of beach resorts
• Gallipoli — site of 1915 Anzac landing and many
• Bodrum — a trendy coastal town in Southern WWI memorials
Aegean which turns into a crowded city in season
when it serves as a playground for Turkish and in- • Mount Nemrut — a UNESCO World Heritage site
ternational holidaymakers alike, featuring a citadel, with head statues dedicated to ancient Gods on its
Roman ruins, trendy clubs and a number of vil- summit
lages surrounding the peninsula each with a different
character from classy to rustic • Ölüdeniz — incomparable postcard beauty of the
“Blue Lagoon”, perhaps the most famous beach of
• Edirne — the second capital of the Ottoman Empire Turkey which you will see on any tourism brochure
• Istanbul — Turkey’s largest city, the former capital • Pamukkale — “the Cotton Castle”, white world
of both the Ottoman and Byzantine Empires, and of travertines surrounding cascading shallow pools
the only major city in the world to straddle two con- filled with thermal waters
tinents
• Sümela — stunning monastery on the cliffs of a
• Izmir — Turkey’s third largest city mountain, a must-see on any trip to the northeast
coast
• Konya — a quite large city that is the heartland of
mystic Sufi order, the site of Rumi’s tomb, and with • Uludağ — a national park featuring school textbook
some elegant Seljuq architecture, all surrounded by belts of different types of forests varying with alti-
vast steppes tude, and the major winter sports resort of the coun-
try
• Trabzon — the wonderful Sumela Monastery is just
outside the city and it is a great gateway to exploring
the Turkish Northeast
1.5 Get in
• Urfa — a city with beautiful architecture and ex-
tremely friendly locals at the gates of Eastern World;
where Kurdish, Arabic, and Persian cultures mingle
1.5.1 Visas
Citizens of the countries listed below can enter Turkey
visa-free for 90 days unless otherwise stated: Albania,
1.4 Other destinations Andorra, Argentina, Azerbaijan (30 days), Bolivia,
Bosnia and Herzegovina (60 days), Brazil, Brunei,
• Ani — impressive ruins of the medieval Armenian Bulgaria, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica (30 days),
capital in the far east of the country; known as the Czech Republic, Northern Cyprus (Turkish Repub-
city of 1000 churches lic of), Denmark, Ecuador, El Salvador, Estonia,
1.5. GET IN 5
Finland, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Guatemala, Airport handles a comparatively limited selection of in-
Honduras, Iceland, Hong Kong (SAR Passport), Iran, ternational flights, and there are also direct charters to
Israel, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan (30 days), Kosovo, Mediterranean resort hot spots like Antalya in the peak
Kyrgyzstan (30 days), Latvia (30 days), Lebanon, summer and winter seasons. In 2005 customs at Istan-
Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macau (30 days), bul international airport was rearranged to the effect that
Macedonia , Malaysia, Moldova (30 days), Monaco, one is now required to go through customs and “enter the
Mongolia (30 days), Montenegro, Morocco, New country” there, rather than first travel to a regional des-
Zealand, Nicaragua, Paraguay, Peru, Romania, Russia tination and pass customs there. Luggage will generally
(60 days), San Marino, Serbia, Singapore, Slovenia, travel to the final destination without further ado, but on
South Korea, Sweden, Switzerland, Syria, Tajikistan (30 occasion you may have to point it out to be sure it will
days), Trinidad and Tobago, Tunisia, Turkmenistan (30 be transported on. The information given by flight atten-
days), Ukraine (60 days), Uruguay, Uzbekistan (30 days), dants in the incoming flight may not be adequate so until
Vatican City and Venezuela. the procedure is changed (it is supposed to be only tem-
German and French citizens don't need a visa for stays porary) it is wise to inquire on Istanbul airport. Since
one must pass security again for any inland flight, it is ad-
up to 90 days and can even enter with their national ID
card (Personalausweis or carte d'identité respectively) or visable to hurry and not spend too much time in transit.
an expired passport/ID unless arriving at the non-Council There are also some other regional airports which receive
of Europe land border crossings (eg from Iran, Iraq and a limited number of flights from abroad, especially from
Syria). Europe and especially during the high season (Jun-Sep).
Citizens of the following countries can get a tourist visa

online (USD20) in advance. It’s no longer possible to Sabiha Gökçen Airport
purchase a visa on entry to Turkey, according to the
Turkish MFA. Despite this, visas were still on sale at Of special interest to those traveling on low-cost carriers
airports (June 2014) but for USD30 rather than USD20, is SAW Sabiha Gökçen Airport, situated some 50km
and some carriers would refuse passengers without the e- east of Istanbul's Taksim Square on the Asian side of Is-
visa (Pegasus, Italy, June 2014). tanbul. Airlines servicing this airport include EasyJet,
Valid for three months: Antigua and Barbuda, Germanwings, Condor, THY (Turkish Airlines) and
Australia, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belgium, many more. It is interesting to point out that there is
Canada, Croatia, Dominica, Dominican Republic, the possibility of catching a plane from Emirates’ budget
Grenada, Haiti, Hong Kong (BNO Passport), Ireland, carrier Air Arabia to Sharjah (United Arab Emirates)
Jamaica, Kuwait, Maldives, Malta (Gratis), Mexico and from there to India for a very competitive price. All
(with valid Schengen, UK, Canada, US, or Japan visa), those low-cost options though, entail departure and ar-
Netherlands, Norway, Oman, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, rival times in the middle of the night. There are shut-
Saudi Arabia, Spain, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, tle buses to the airport from Taksim square operated by
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, United Arab Emirates, Havas and Havatas.
United Kingdom and United States of America
Valid for two months: Belarus
1.5.3 By train
Valid for one month: Armenia, Bahrain, Bangladesh
(with valid Schengen, Irish, UK, or US visa), RepublicYou can still travel from Europe to Turkey by train, al-
of Cyprus, Hungary, India (with valid Schengen, Irish,though these days this is more of historical or perhaps
UK, or US visa), Indonesia, Mauritius, Moldova, Pakistan
even romantic interest than fast or practical. The famed
(with valid Schengen, Irish, UK, or US visa), Philippines
Orient Express from London now travels no further than
if you have a valid Schengen or OECD member’s visa or Vienna, but you can take the daily TransBalkan from
residence permit, Slovakia, South Africa Budapest (Hungary) via Bucharest (Romania), a two-
(NOTE: Payments in pounds sterling must be in Bank of night journey with a scheduled 3-hour stop in Bucharest.
England £10 notes only. No Scottish or Northern Irish 1st/2nd class sleepers and couchettes are available, but
notes and no other values of notes, eg GBP5 or GBP20 the train lacks a restaurant car so stock up on sup-
or GBP50) plies. From/to Greek stations there are two daily ser-
More information can be found at the Turkish Ministry vices, from Istanbul to the border station of Pythion every
of Foreign Affairs website. morning and from Istanbul to Thessaloniki every night.
(Due to budget cuts by the Greek government, the services
to/from Greece has been suspended indefinitely since 13
1.5.2 By plane Feb 2011.) There are also daily trains to Istanbul from
Sofia (Bulgaria).
Turkey’s primary international gateway by air is Istanbul's From Middle East, there are also once-weekly services
Atatürk International Airport. Ankara's Esenboğa from Tabriz and Tehran in Iran to Van and Istanbul, via
6 CHAPTER 1. TURKEY
Ankara. (Due to railtrack renovations, for at least two gate (south of Silopi, north of Zakho) from Iraq, and
years from February 2012 on, Istanbul’s Asian station Dogubeyazit border gate (near Ararat) from Iran.
will receive no services. As such, the western terminus of Major roads from Caucasia enter Turkey at Sarp/Sarpi
Trans-Asia Express, which provides service between Iran border gate from Georgia (south of Batumi) and
and Turkey, has now been shifted to Ankara.) While di- Türkgözü border gate south of Akhaltsikhe (this is the
rect Istanbul-Damascus service has been discontinued for nearest border gate from Tbilisi but the last few kilome-
some time now, there are still once or twice weekly trains tres on the Georgian side were really bad as of summer
between southern cities of Mersin, Adana, and Gaziantep 2009). The border with Armenia is currently closed, thus
and the Syrian city of Aleppo. There had also been a train
impassable by car.
connecting Gaziantep with Mosul in Iraq, but it was sus-
pended shortly after it was inaugurated and does not seem There are also other border gates (unlisted here), from all
to come back into service, at least not in the foreseeable the countries Turkey has a common land border with (ex-
future. cept Armenia), leading to secondary roads passable with
a car.
A cheap way of traveling to or from Turkey might be the
Balkan Flexipass. One must be aware of holidays because these border gates
may be extremely congested at times. Especially during
the summer many Turks who live in Germany drive back
1.5.4 By car home and this creates huge lines at the border.
From Central Europe, getting to Turkey is not too diffi-

cult. In any case you'll need your International Insurance 1.5.5 By bus
Card (Green Card). Pay attention to “TR” not being can-
celled and be sure your insurance is valid for the Asian Europe
part of Turkey, too. Otherwise you will have to buy Turk-
ish car insurance separately. In any case, Turkish customs From Bucharest there is a daily bus to Istanbul at 16:00
will make an entry into your passport stating when the car for RON125. There are also several daily buses from
(and thus you) have to leave Turkey again. Constanta, Romania and from Sofia, Bulgaria and from
there you can get connections to the major cities of Eu-
A carnet de passage is not necessary unless you intend to
rope. Another possibility is the bus from Athens in
move on to Iran, which requires you to have a carnet de
Greece via Thessaloniki. You may also find smaller bus
passage.
companies offering connections to other countries in the
National driving licences from some of the European Balkans. A couple of Turkish bus companies operate
countries are accepted. If you are not sure about your buses between Sofia and Istanbul. These buses typically
situation, obtain an international driving licence before- stop at various cities along the way.
hand.
Major roads from Europe are: Georgia
• E80 enters Turkey at Kapıkule border gate (NW of There are several border points between Turkey and
Edirne, SE of Svilengrad) from Bulgaria Georgia, in particular in Batumi. You may have to change
buses at the border.
• E87 enters Turkey at Dereköy border gate (north of
Kırklareli, south of Tirnovo) from Bulgaria
• E90 enters Turkey at İpsala border gate (west of Iran
Keşan, east of Alexandroupolis) from Greece
There is a direct bus to Istanbul from Teheran in Iran
which takes approx 48hr and costs USD35 for a one-way
A convenient connection from Western Europe, espe- ticket between Istanbul or Ankara and Tehran.
cially if you want to avoid narrow and perhaps poorly
maintained highways of the Balkans, is to take the weekly
motorail trains run by EuroTurk Express , which de- • Dogubeyazit/Bazerghan This Turkey/Iran border
part from Bonn-Beuel station (Germany) every Saturday crossing is easily (and fast) done by public transport.
at noon, arriving two nights later during the afternoon in Take a bus to Bazerghan and a shared taxi to the
Çerkezköy, about 100 km northwest of Istanbul or an border (ca. USD2-3). Cross the border stretch per
hour’s drive through a high-standard motorway. Fares pedes and catch a frequent minibus (ca. TRY5, 15
start at €139 for passengers, cars at €279. minutes) to Dogubeyazit. Check the security situa-
tion in the region, due to the unsolved PKK conflict.
Major roads from Middle East enter Turkey at nu-
merous border gates around Antakya (Antioch), from • There are also buses from Van to Urmia crossing
Syrian cities such as Aleppo and Latakia, Habur border the Turkey/Iran border at Esendere/Sero. The buses
1.6. GET AROUND 7
cost app. €13 and it takes more than 6 hr to finish the Istanbul domestic terminal and local ticket offices of
the 300 km path. That’s because of the poor roads, Turkish Airlines , Onur Air , Pegasus Airlines and At-
harsh snowy conditions during the winter and also lasjet among others . Many of the large cities have daily
many military checkpoints because of security rea- connections to the traffic hubs Ankara and Istanbul, oth-
sons concerning the P.K.K.. ers will have flights on specific days only. Upon arrival at
regional airports there will often be a connecting Havaş
This southern route is less frequent than the northern bus to the city centre, which is much, much cheaper than
Dogubeyazit/Bazerghan, as it is much slower but therefor taking a taxi. They may wait for half an hour, but will be
a scenic mountainous route. Make sure you get a clear available after the arrival of major flights. In some spots
idea about exchange rates if you want to change Turk- a whole fleet of minibuses will be waiting for an impor-
ish lira or rial as the official bank at the border does not tant flight, and then they will head out for cities in the re-
exchange these currencies and you have to deal with the gion. For instance, flying to Agri in the East a connecting
plentiful black market. minibus will head for Dogubeyazit within twenty,thirty
minutes or so, so you don't have to travel into Agri first,
then wait for a Dogubeyazit bus. Do ask for such easy
Syria connections upon arrival!
From Aleppo in Syria a 3hr bus to Antakya costs SYP250

departing at 05:00. There is also a minibus service at 1.6.2 By bus
15:00 for SYP350. From Antakya you can get connect-
ing buses to almost anywhere in Turkey, however ini- Turkey has a very good long-distance bus network with
tial prices may be overinflated and often inconvenient air-conditioned buses, reserved seats and generally good-
times. If travelling through to Istanbul, there are bus ser- quality service, at least with the major operators. There
vices from Damascus with bus changes along the way at are now a few firms providing luxury buses with 1st class
Antakya. Purchasing a bus ticket in Damascus will be seats and service. Standard buses, however, have seats
significantly cheaper than in Aleppo or Antakya. If trav- narrower than those of economy class on aircraft. Buses
elling from Syria it is worthwhile to purchase additional are often crowded, but smoking is strictly prohibited.
supplies of snacks and drinks before leaving the country Cellphone use is also restricted on many buses.
- these are significantly more expensive at bus stations in Two buses with websites (though with poor English sup-
Turkey. port) are:
• Metro Bus
1.5.6 By boat
• Varan
Many people arrive in Bodrum on one of the hydro-foils
or ferries that run from most of the close Greek islands Bus travel is convenient in Turkey. Go to the Otogar (bus
into the port. A fairly pretty way to arrive. While many station) in any of the major cities and you can find a bus
of the lines that originate and terminate in Istanbul have to almost any destination departing within half an hour,
recently been discontinued (due to bankruptcy), there are or a couple of hours at the most. Buses are staffed by
still summer departures direct to Eastern Italy. drivers and a number of assistants. During the ride you
Other main towns on the Aegean coast have ferry con- will be offered free drinks, a bite or two, and stops will
nections with the nearest Greek islands as well. Trabzon, be made every two and a half hours or so at well-stocked
a major city on the eastern Black Sea coast has a reg- road restaurants. The further east you travel, the less fre-
ular line from/to Sochi on the Russian Black Sea coast. quent buses will be, but even places as far as Dogubeyazit
Mersin, Taşucu, and Alanya on the Mediterranean coast or Van will have regular services to many places hundreds
has ferry links with either Famagusta (with Mersin) or of kilometres away. Only the smallest towns do not have
Kyrenia (with others) in Northern Cyprus. a bus straight to Istanbul or Izmir at least once every two
days.
See Ferries in the Mediterranean.
Finding the right bus quickly does require some help and
thus some trust, but be careful. Scammers will be waiting
for you, and some may assist you in buying a ticket to a
1.6 Get around bus that won't depart in the next two hours. Sometimes
there simply is no other bus, but on other occasions you
1.6.1 By plane will be sitting there while other buses with the same des-
tination start well ahead. If you have some time to spare:
Major cities are served by airlines as well, with reasonable check the departure (and arrival) times of other compa-
prices, beating the bus travel experience especially over nies, that may save you time overall. Still, if you indicate
longer distances. Tickets can be conveniently bought at you really want to leave NOW (use phrases like “hemen”
8 CHAPTER 1. TURKEY
or "şimdi”, or “acelem var” - I am in a hurry ), people will to sleep. And remember: many buses pick up short-track
realize you are in hurry, and off you go on the next bus fare along the ride, and park them in the last two or three
departing for your destination. rows. Also keep in mind that the back of the bus may be
If you have several operators to choose from, ask for the more noisy compared to the front, since that is where the
number of seats in the buses you compare. Roughly, a engine is located.
larger capacity implies a greater comfort (all bus-seats If you have a bicycle it will be transported free of extra
have approximately the same leg-room, but larger 48-seat charge. In most buses it fits in the luggage area of the bus-
buses are certainly more comfortable than a 15-seat Dol- Make sure you have the tools to fold your bike as small as
muş, which may be considered a 'bus’ by the company possible (height matters most)
selling the seat). Also, the bus company with the largest Fez Bus. This is another alternative, a Hop on hop off
sign is usually the one with the most buses and routes. If travel network that links Istanbul to the most popular
possible, ask other travellers you meet about their expe- tourist destinations in western Turkey, and a few other
riences with different operators: even big operators have destinations. The buses runs hostel to hostel and have
different standards of service, and even with the same op- an English speaking tour leader on board. The pass can
erator the standards may vary from region to region. be purchased for a few days or all summer. Departures
Don't be surprised if halfway to some strange and far-off are every other day. More expensive than local buses, but
destination you are asked out of the bus (your luggage could be far less hassle, and offers a different experience.
will often be already standing next to it) and transferred The main office in Istanbul is in Sultanahmet next to the
to another. The other bus will “buy” you, and will bring Orient Youth Hostel on Yeni Akbiyik Cd.
you to the destination. This may even happen for 'direct'
or 'non-stop' tickets.
Sometimes long-haul bus lines will leave you stranded on 1.6.3 By train
some ring-road around a city, rather than bringing you
to the centre. That can be annoying. Inquire ahead (and Offering considerably cheap, but slower travel com-
hope they don't lie). On the other hand, many companies pared with the bus, TCDD (Turkish Republic State Rail-
will have “servis aracı" or service vehicles to the centre, ways) operate passenger trains all over the country. How-
when the Otogar is on the periphery of a city, as they ever, as Turkey has fewer than 11,000 km of rail network
nowadays often are. In some cities these service vehi- in the total, many cities and tourist spots are out of rail
cles are used by many companies combined, and a fleet coverage.
of them, to different parts of the metropolis, will be wait-
ing. The company may also choose to combine the pas- Istanbul–Ankara and Istanbul–Edirne lines are the only
sengers of multiple buses; meaning that you may have lines that are electrified, so the rest of the lines are ser-
to wait until another bus or two arrives before depart- viced by diesel trains. The services from Istanbul to the
ing. Keep your ticket ready as proof you were on a bus east change their locomotives at Ankara station, and ser-
(though most of these services are run on good faith). In vices to the south change their locomotives at Enveriye
some cities (including Ankara, excluding Istanbul), the station, the remote one of two stations in Eskişehir (lo-
municipality have prohibited the use of service buses due cated about two-thirds distance to Ankara from Istanbul).
to their effect on traffic. In that case, you might have to No steam locomotives run on Turkish railways regularly,
take a public bus or metro to get to your destination. One except occasional ceremonies.
should probably avoid using taxis (at least departing from Istanbul–Ankara rail line is the busiest and the most rid-
the Otogar) since they usually tend to abuse their monop- den one. There are several daily trains on this line, and
olistic position by refusing to go to closer destinations, a ride takes between 6 and a half to more than 10 hours,
behaving rudely towards the passenger, charging on the depending on the train one takes and the delays, which
night tariff, etc. If you have to take a taxi, it is usually are quite frequent.
suggested that you do it from outside the bus terminal.
High speed train (yüksek hızlı tren, usually shortened to
Seating within buses is partly directed by the “koltuk nu- YHT) between Ankara and Pendik (on the Asian Side of
marası" or seat number on your ticket, partly by the ritu- Istanbul), and between Ankara and Konya is available.
alistic seating of women next to women, couples together An extension to central Istanbul is under construction.
and so forth. So don't be too annoyed if you are required
It is possible to take the fast train from Ankara, and then
to give up your seat. In general, as a foreigner, you will
transfer to the bus provided by TCDD in the Eskişehir
have the better seat much of the time.
station, heading for Bursa.
One hint: it often is easiest to take a seat in the back,
Recent rail track renovations all over the country and the
whatever the number of your koltuk, and not be bothered
subsequent phase outs of many passenger trains mean
for much of the ride. This is particularly true if you travel
that there is a less number of destinations you can get
alone, and want to keep it that way, even though the last
to by rail from Istanbul directly compared with a couple
row may be reserved for the driver-off-duty, who wants
of years ago. The major cities with a direct train ser-
1.6. GET AROUND 9
vice from Istanbul are Edirne (from Sirkeci station on 00:30 and 06:30 in all trains except Fatih Express, the
the European side, not Haydarpaşa), Eskişehir, Konya, daily night train between Istanbul and Ankara, the din-
Adana, Kayseri (where Cappadocia is a few hours bus ing car of which is open until about 02:00.
ride away), Diyarbakır, Erzurum (a few minutes away All cars have lavatories, although they may not be always
from Palandöken ski centre), Kars, and Tatvan on the so clean or have toilet paper.
shore of Lake Van. Ankara has services from/to a some-
what wider number of destinations, while Izmir, other Smoking in any part of any public transport, includ-
than trains from/to Ankara (via Eskişehir) and Bandırma ing trains, is banned in Turkey, but neither the conduc-
(on the coast of Marmara), is only served by a number of tors/security guards nor other passengers seem to be con-
regional trains operating across Aegean Turkey. cerned about this ban on the longest haul trains heading
to/from Eastern Turkey, at least on the 2nd class cars.
Rather than a spider web-like system, usually linear and
quite disconnected nature of Turkish railway network Inter Rail and Balkan Flexipass passes are valid in
means that, if you have a motivation (such as being on all trains in Turkey (except international trains operating
budget, or holding a pass such as Inter Rail) for trip- between Turkish and Iranian/Syrian/Iraqi stations), but
ping around the country solely by rail, you should pre- holders of these tickets may have to get a seat number
pare yourself for long de-tours and waits on the stations before ride, free of charge, especially in the trains that
between trains. Getting from Istanbul to Izmir, two of are consisted of only 1st class cars. TCDD also offers
Turkey’s largest cities, only by trains, for example, in- Tren Tur pass cards which lets its holder a month of free
volves either a long de-tour to Eskişehir and then switch- rail travel on any Turkish train (again, Tren Tur is not
ing to another train bound for Izmir there, or taking a accepted in international trains operating between Turk-
fast ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Bandırma and ish and Iranian/Syrian/Iraqi stations and the international
then take the train heading for Izmir there (the latter of train operating between Istanbul and Thessaloniki). Tren
which is actually faster than taking a bus to Izmir, al- Tur card is considerably cheaper than one-zone Interrail
though would not certainly be cheaper. TCDD offers tickets, but be sure to get a seat number in the stations be-
combined tickets for this boat+train trip, which are a few fore you get into a train that is consisted of only 1st class
liras cheaper than what you would normally pay if you cars.
would have bought the tickets separately). TCDD offers 20% discounted tickets for youths under
1st and 2nd class tickets are available across the coun- 26, whether they are students or not. Until recently any-
try, while some trains are consisted of only 1st class one entitled to a discounted ticket were required to show
cars. 1st class usually means a pullman car (which has a valid student ID on board, but this is no longer the case.
large leg-rooms between the seats, and most of which has Train tickets can be bought online, at the station of
air-conditioners nowadays), and 2nd class usually means departure (however, you can also buy your ticket for an
compartment having 6 or far worse 8 seats. 8-seated com- Anatolian destination at the Sirkeci station, the main sta-
partments are not widespread, still ask before in order to tion of Istanbul on the European side), some of the cen-
avoid having a ticket for one. Also, 2nd class tickets do tral postoffices, authorized tourism agencies or from
not have seat numbers written on them, so you should rush the automatic ticket machines which are rarely located
into the train to find a suitable empty seat. at the main stations of the big cities. Credit cards are ac-
Many trains have couchettes (Turkish: kuşetli) and sleep- cepted only in major stations, be sure to have enough cash
ing cars (yataklı vagon), however even some of the night if you’ll buy a ticket in a small town station a few minutes
trains lack one, so ask before choosing your departure. before the train departs. If you are buying your ticket
from a station, remember that only booths of a limited
Although none of the regional trains—which operate
number of very central stations accept foreign currency
between nearby cities—have a dining car, most long- alongside Turkish lira, you can pay only in Turkish lira
distance trains have one. However, dining cars of the
in the rest. Getting on a train without a valid ticket could
trains heading for eastern Turkey may have a limited land you with a fine, but purchasing a ticket on the train
menu and beverage list or there might be no dining car is often possible at a higher price.
at all due to the low interest of the passengers of these
lines. Have some supplies, especially if you are going to A reservation is recommended during summer, on Fri-
take one of the services to the east, but don’t worry if days and Sundays, and before domestic religious feasts,
you don’t have any time to get anything. In the stations when a one-week break is common and trains get really
where the train stops for 15 minutes or more—which typ- crowded.
ically are located in big cities lying about three to four For reservation and timetables, see Turkish Republic
hours away from each other—you will find a kiosk or State Railways’ website .
a buffet to buy some snacks and drinks. You can also
buy some snacks—or even fresh fruits during spring and
summertime—from vendors “jumping” into the cars in
smaller stations as well. Dining cars are closed between
10 CHAPTER 1. TURKEY
Motorways
There are no fees to use the highways except intercity mo-

torways (otoyol). While Turkish highways vary widely
in quality and size, the toll motorways have three lanes
and are very smooth and fast. Motorways are explicitly
signed with distinct green signs and given road numbers
prefixed with the letter O. The motorway network cur-
rently consists of two lines stretching out to east and west
from Istanbul (towards Ankara and Edirne respectively),
Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, a part of the Turkish motorway sys- a network in Central Aegean fanning out of Izmir, and
tem, spans over the Bosphorus in Istanbul, and connects Europe another one connecting the major eastern Mediterranean
and Asia. city of Adana to neighbouring cities in all directions.
Motorways no longer have toll booths and instead have
lanes for automatic (OGS) and pre-paid card (KGS) lanes.
Unless you are going to live in Turkey, the refillable KGS
1.6.4 By car card will be what you want.
The KGS cards can be purchased in a building at the en-
Like all of its neighbours (except Cyprus off the southern trance to the motorway. The building may be on the other
coast of Turkey), driving is on the right side of the road side of the motorway in which case you will have to park
in Turkey.. and cross the motorway on foot. This building will have
It is illegal to use a mobile phone while driving. Maxi- a window for purchasing a KGS card and putting money
mum permitted amount of alcohol in blood for drivers is on it.
0.05 grams per litre, that is roughly equal to two cups (a Once you have purchased a KGS card and put money on
cup = 500 mL) of beer or two glasses (a wine glass = 330 it, drive through the KGS entry lane to the motorway.
mL) of wine. The use of seat belts both at the front and Place the card in the scanner machine which will display
back line is obligatory, but, although failing to use one your card’s current balance. Upon exiting the motorway,
carries a penalty, this is not always adhered to by locals, scan the card in the same way and the machine will deduct
including the drivers themselves. an amount based on the distance driven.
Turkish signboards are almost identical to the ones used It is also possible to purchase KGS cards at several Turk-
in Europe, and differences are often insignificant. The ish banks.
place names written on green background lead to motor-
In addition to the distance driven, motorway fees also
ways (which you should pay a toll, unless it is a ring road
depend on the type of your vehicle. Edirne–Istanbul
around or within a city); on blue background means other
motorway—about 225 km and the main entry point to
highways; on white background means rural roads (or a
Istanbul from Europe—typically costs TRY3 for a car,
road inside a city under the responsibility of city coun-
for example.
cils); and on brown background indicates the road leads
to a historical place, an antique city, a place of tourist in-
terest or a city out of Turkey (these signboards used to be Fuel
on yellow background till a few years ago, so still there
is a chance of unreplaced yellow signboards existing here Despite bordering countries which have the richest oil re-
and there). Also keep in mind that these signboards are
sources, fuel in Turkey is ridiculously expensive, in fact
not always standardized; for instance, some of the blue one of the most expensive in the world because of the
ones may be leading into the rural roads. very heavy taxes. For example, a litre of unleaded gaso-
Nowadays most intercity highways avoid city centres by line costs a little less than TRY5 (€2.15 - that equals al-
circling around them. If you'd like to drive into the cen- most USD11 per US gallon!). Diesel and LPG is less
tre for shopping, dining, and the like, follow the signposts damaging to your wallet (and to the environment in case
saying Şehir Merkezi, which are usually on white back- of LPG), but not that drastically.
ground, and nowadays accompanied by no further trans- Petrol stations (benzin istasyonu) are frequently lined
lations though you can still spot some old signs sayingalong the highways, most (if not all) serving round the
“Centrum” besides Şehir Merkezi. City centres typicallyclock and accepting credit cards (you have to get out of
have two or more entrances/exits from the ringroads that
the car and enter the station building to enter your PIN
surround them. code if you are using credit card). In all of them you can
As Turkey uses the metric system, all distances on the find unleaded gasoline (kurşunsuz), diesel (dizel or mo-
signboards are in kilometres, unless otherwise stated torin), and LPG (liquid petroleum gas, LPG). In many (if
(such as meters, but never in miles). not most) of them you can also find CNG (compressed
1.6. GET AROUND 11
natural gas, CNG). Though, petrol stations in the villages back, and mostly by the driver himself. If the driver col-
off the beaten track are exception, all they offer is of- lects himself, people hand money on from the back rows
ten limited to only diesel, which is used for running the to the front, getting change back by the same route. On
agricultural machinery. It is advised to keep the gas tank some stretches tickets are sold in advance, and things can
full if you are going to stray away from main roads. Also get complicated if some of the passengers bought a ticket
petrol stations along the motorways (toll-ways) are rarer and others just sat inside waiting – for maybe half an hour
than other highways, usually once every 40-50km. Make - but without a ticket.
sure to fill your tank in the first station you’ll pass by (there The concept of dolmuş in Istanbul is somehow different
are signs indicating you are soon going to pass by one) if
than the rest of Turkey. The vehicles are different, they
your “tank is getting empty” alert signal is on. take max. 7 sitting passengersand non standing. they do
Biofuels are not common. What most resembles a bio- not tend to take passengers along the way, they depart
fuel available to a casual driver is sold in some of the sta- immediately when they are full, and many of them op-
tions affiliated with national chain Petrol Ofisi under the erate 24 hours a day. The name derives from “dolmak”,
name biyobenzin. But still it is not mostly biofuel at all – the verb for “to fill”, as they used not to start the jour-
it consists of a little bioethanol (2% of the total volume) ney without a decent number of passengers. They usu-
stirred into pure gasoline which makes up the rest (98%). ally leave when they are full, but sometimes start at fixed
Biodiesel is in an experimental stage yet, not available in hours, whatever the number.
the market.
1.6.6 By boat
Repair shops
In all cities and towns, there are repair shops, usually

located together in complexes devoted to auto-repairing
(usually rather incorrectly called sanayi sitesi or oto sanayi
sitesi in Turkish, which means “industrial estate” and
“auto-industrial estate” respectively), which are situated
in the outskirts of the cities. And all cities and towns,there
are big 3 s plants.(sales,service,spare parts).these are
more corporate than sanayi sitesi these called oto plaza..
Renting a car
You may rent a car to get around Turkey from an inter-

national or local car rental agent. If you are traveling by
Car ferry crossing the Straits of Dardanelles between Çanakkale
plane you may find car rental desks in arrival terminals of
and Eceabat
all airports such as IST Atatürk Airport, Istanbul.
Fast ferries (hızlı feribot) are fast (50-60km/hour)
catamaran-type ferryboats that connect for instance
1.6.5 By dolmuş Istanbul to the other side of the Marmara Sea. They can
cut travel time dramatically. Again for instance leaving
The minibus (or Minibüs as called in Istanbul) is a small from the Yenikapı jetty in Istanbul (just a bit southwest of
bus (sometimes car) that will ride near-fixed routes. The the Blue Mosque) you can be at the Bursa otogar in two
ride may be from the periphery of a major city to the cen- hours, with less than an hour for the actual boat ride to
tre or within a city, but may also take three to four hours Yalova. Similar services are operated to connect several
from one city to the next, when the route is not commer- parts of Istanbul with the Asian side, or places farther up
cial for large busses. They sometimes make a detour to the Bosporus. And this type of fast ferry is increasingly
bring some old folks home or collect some extra heavy seen all over the country wherever there is enough water.
luggage. You will find them in cities as well as in inter-
city traffic. All during their journey people will get in and There are also ferry connections between Istanbul and
out (shout “Inecek var” – “someone to get off” – to have Izmir and between Istanbul and Trabzon in the eastern
it stop if you’re in). The driver tends to be named “kap- Black Sea region, ships operating on the latter line also
tan” (captain), and some behave accordingly. The fare stop at all of the significant cities along the Turkish Black
is collected all through the ride. In some by a specially Sea coast. However both of these lines are unfortunately
appointed passenger who will get a reduction, in others operating only in summer months.
by a steward, who may get off halfway down the jour- All inhabited Turkish islands have at least one daily cruise
ney, to pick up a dolmuş of the same company heading to the nearest mainland city or town during summer.
But as winter conditions at the seas can go harsh, the sign which may be equivalent of a signal meaning a dan-
frequency of voyages drop significantly due to the bad ger. In addition to the thumb, having a signboard with the
weather. destination name certainly helps. Waiting for someone to
Perhaps one of the best cruising grounds in the world, take you generally doesn't exceed half an hour, though
Turkey offers thousands of years of history, culture and this dramatically varies depending on the density of traf-
civilization set against a stunning mountainous backdrop. fic (as is elsewhere) and the region, for example, it usu-
The coastline is a mixture of wide gulfs, peaceful coves, ally takes much longer to attract a ride in Mediterranean
shady beaches, uninhabited islands, small villages and Turkey than in Marmara Region. Best hitchhiking spots
are the crossroads with traffic lights, where ring-roads
bustling towns. Many of these locations are still only ac-
cessible by boat. Rare in the Mediterranean, one can still around a city and the road coming from the city center in-
tersect. Don’t be so away from the traffic lights so drivers
find some seclusion on a private charter in Turkey. In fact,
Turkey offers more coastline than any other Mediter- would be slow enough to see you and stop to take you; but
be away enough from the traffic lights for a safe standing
ranean country. The best way to see Turkey is from your
own private yacht on your own schedule. Turkey offers beside the road. Don’t try to hitchhike on motorways, no
one will be slow enough to stop, it is also illegal to enter
some of the most exquisite yachts in the world known as
gulets. the motorways as a pedestrian. Don’t start to hitchhike
until you are out of a city as cars may head for different
parts of the city, not your destination, and if not in hurry,
try to avoid hitchhiking after night falls, especially if you
1.6.7 By bicycle are a lone female traveler.
Special lanes devoted to bicycles are virtually non- Although the drivers are taking you just to have a word
existent, except a few quite short routes –which are built or two during their long, alone journey, always watch out
mainly for sport, not transportation- along coastal avenues and avoid sleeping.
or parks in the big cities like Istanbul or Izmir. Ter- On some occasions, you may not be able to find someone
rain of the country is mostly hilly, another factor which going directly to where your destination is, so don’t refuse
makes long-distance cycling in Turkey more difficult. If anyone stopped to take you –refusing someone stopped to
it is the case that you have already made up your mind take you is impolite-, unless he/she is going to a few kilo-
and give cycling a try in your Turkey trip, always stay metres away, and if he/she would go to a road that doesn’t
as much on the right side of the roads as possible; avoid arrive at your destination in a coming fork. You may have
riding a bicycle out of cities or lightened roads at night, to change several cars even on a 100-km course, chang-
do not be surprised by the drivers horning at you, and do ing in each town after town. However, because of the
not enter the motorways, it is forbidden. You could bet- enormous numbers of trucks carrying goods for foreign
ter prefer rural roads with much less traffic density, but markets, you can find unexpectedly long-haul trips from,
then there is the problem of freely roaming sheepdogs, say a town in western Turkey to as far as, for instance,
which can sometimes be quite dangerous. Rural roads Ukraine or southern Germany.
also have much much less signboards than the highways,
which turns them into a labyrinth, in which it is easy to get Not many, but some drivers –especially van drivers- may
lost even for non-local Turkish people, without a detailed ask for money (“fee”) from you. Refuse and tell them that
map. if you had money to waste, you would be on a bus, and
not standing on the side of the road.
Air can be pumped into tyres at any petrol station without
a charge. Bicycle repair-shops are rare in cities and can- Drivers staying in the area may point downwards (to the
not be easily found, motorcycle repair shops can be tried road surface) or towards the direction they’re driving or
alternatively (however, they are very reluctant to repair flash their headlights while passing, indicating that they
a bicycle if they are busy with their customers who have wouldn't make a good long-haul ride. Smile and/or wave
motorcycles). your hand to show courtesy.
In Istanbul’s Princess’ Islands, renting a bike is an amus-

ing, cheaper, and obviously more animal-friendly alter-
native to hiring a horse-drawn carriage. On these is- 1.6.9 On foot
lands well-paved roads are shared only by horse-drawn
carriages, bicycles and public service vehicles (like am- Turkey has two long-distance waymarked hiking trails,
bulances, police vans, school buses, garbage trucks etc.). one of them is the famous Lycian Way, between Fethiye
and Antalya, the other one is the Saint Paul Trail, between
Antalya and Yalvaç up to the north, in the Turkish Lakes
1.6.8 By thumb District. Both are about 500 km, and signed with painted
stones and signboards. Since Lycian Way is much older,
Almost every driver has an idea about what universal it has more facilities for shopping and accommodation in
hitchhiking sign (“thumb”) means. Don’t use any other the villages situated along or near its route.
1.8. SEE 13
Eastern Black Sea region covers very beautiful quite long for a job in tourism pour out thousands of youngsters who
trekking routes between the greenest of green plateaus want to practice their knowledge on the tourist, with vary-
well above the clouds as well, and some tourism agencies ing degrees of fluency. Language universities produce
in the main cities of Turkey are offering guided trekking students that nowadays are pretty good at their chosen
tours –including the transportation- in this region. language.
Inside the cities, there are white-, or rarely yellow-
painted pedestrian crossings (zebra crossing) on the
main streets and avenues, which are normally pedestrian- 1.8 See
priority spots. However, for many drivers, they are noth-
ing more than ornamental drawings on the road pave- As a general rule, most museums and sites of ancient
ments, so it is better to cross the streets at where traf- cities in Turkey are closed on Mondays, although there
fic lights are. Still, be sure all the cars stopped, because are numerous exceptions to this.
it is not unusual to see the drivers still not stopping in
the first few seconds after the light turns to red for vehi-
cles. As a better option, on wide streets, there are also 1.8.1 Ancient ruins and architectural her-
pedestrian overpasses and underground pedestrian pas- itage
sages available. In narrow main streets during rush hour,
you can cross the street anywhere and anytime, since cars
will be in a stop-go-stop-go manner because of heavy
traffic. Also in narrow streets inside the residential hoods,
you need not to worry about keeping on the sidewalk, you
can walk well in the middle of the road, only to step aside
when a car is coming.
1.7 Talk
See also: Turkish phrasebook
The sole official language of Turkey is Turkish. Turkish

is an Altaic language and its closest living relatives are
other Turkic languages, which are spoken in southwest- Streets of Alaçatı, Aegean Region
ern, central and northern Asia; and to a lesser degree by
significant communities in the Balkans. Because Turk- At the crossroads of civilizations, all parts of Turkey are
ish is an agglutinative language, native speakers of Indo- full of a mindblowing number of ancient ruins.
European languages generally find it difficult to learn.
Since 1928, Turkish is written in a variant of the Latin al- Hittites, the first indigenous people that rose to found
phabet (after so many centuries of using the Arabic one, a state in Anatolia—although there is one certain
evident in many historical texts and documents) with the Çatalhöyük preceding them, the earliest settlement ever
additions of ç/Ç, ğ/Ğ, ı, İ, ö/Ö, ş/Ş and ü/Ü, and with the found to the date in Turkey—left the proof of their exis-
exclusions of Q, W and X. tence at the ruins of Hattuşaş, their capital.
Kurdish is also spoken by an estimated 7-10% of the pop- Ancient Greeks and closely following Romans left their
mark mostly in Aegean and Mediterranean Regions, leav-
ulation. Several other languages exist, like Laz in the
North-East (also spoken in adjacent Georgia), and in gen- ing behind the marble ruins of hundreds of cities, tem-
eral people living near borders will often be speaking the ples, and monuments. Some are largely restored to their
language at the other side too, like Arabic in the South- former glory, such as Ephesus as well as numerous oth-
East. ers along the Aegean coast which are on the checklist of
most travellers to Turkey, along with some more obscure
Thanks to migration, even in rural areas most villages will ones off the beaten path such as Aphrodisias near Denizli,
have at least somebody who has worked in Germany and and Aizanoi near Kütahya.
can thus speak German. The same goes for other West-
European languages like Dutch (often mistakenly called In the meantime, some other indigenous peoples, such
“Flemish” there) or French. Recent immigration from as Lycians, were carving beautiful tombs—many of
Balkans means there is also a possibility to come across which are fairly well preserved and can be seen all around
native Serbo-Croatian, Bulgarian, and Albanian speakers Lycia—for their dearly departed ones onto the rocky hill-
mainly in big cities of western Turkey, but don't count sides.
on this. English is also increasingly popular among the Legendary Troy stands out as an example of different civ-
younger generation. The “Universities” that train pupils ilizations literally living on the top of each other. While
what is visible today is clearly Hellenistic, the place has were built. Other contemporary trends of the era, such
its roots as Hittite Wilusa, and later re-built many times as Baroque and Rococo, didn't make much inroads in
over by Ancient Greeks. Turkey, although there were some experiments of com-
Perhaps the most unique “architectural” heritage in bining them into Islamic architecture, as can be seen at
the country, some of the Cappadocian cave houses Ortaköy Mosque on the banks of Bosphorus along with
and churches carved into “fairy chimneys” and under- some others.
ground cities (in a literal sense!) date back to early As the landscapes change the more east you go, so does
Christians hiding from persecution. the architectural heritage. The remote valleys and hill-
Successors of Romans, the Byzantines, broke new tops of Eastern Karadeniz and Eastern Anatolia are dot-
ground with more ambitious projects, culminating in ted with numerous medieval Georgian and Armenian
grand Hagia Sophia of Istanbul, built in 537, and which churches and castles—some of which are nicely well
had the distinction of being the largest cathedral in the preserved but not all were that lucky. Armenian cathe-
world for almost a thousand years. Most of Byzantine dral on Akdamar Island of Lake Van and medieval Ani
heritage intact today is found in Marmara Region, espe- are two that lay somewhere on the midway between
cially in Istanbul, although a stray monastery or two dat- perfectly preserved and undergone total destruction, but
ing back to the era can be found in almost any part of the both are absolutely must-sees if you've made your way
country. that east. For a change, Southeastern Anatolia fea-
tures more Middle East-influenced architecture, with
Seljuks, the first ever Turkic state to be founded in arched courtyards and heavy usage of yellow stones
Asia Minor, built most of their monuments—which in- with highly exquisite masonry. It’s best seen in Urfa,
corporates large majestic portals and heavily delicate and especially in Mardin and nearby Midyat.
stonework, reminiscent of some landmarks in parts of
Being on the crossroads of civilizations more often than
Asia—in major centres of the time in Eastern and Central
Anatolia, especially in Konya, their capital. not also means being the battleground of civilizations. So
it’s no wonder why so many castles and citadels dot the
Ottomans, who had considered themselves as a Balkan landscape, both in towns and countryside, and both on
state until their demise, built most of their landmarks the coasts and inland. Most of the castles built during
in Balkans and the natural extension of Balkans within different stages of history are today main attractions of
today’s Turkey—Marmara Region—just like the Byzan- the towns they are standing on.
tines, whom the Ottomans inspired to in so many ways.
Most of the earlier Ottoman monuments were built 20th century wasn't kind on Turkish cities. Due to the
in Bursa, which have little Byzantine and compera- pressure caused by high rates of immigration from ru-
tively large Seljuk influences, and later, when the dy- ral to urban areas, many historical neighbourhoods in
nasty moved to Europe, in Edirne, some of the major cities were knocked down in favour of soulless (and usu-
landmarks of which exhibit some kind of “transitional” ally, drab ugly) apartment blocks, and outskirts of ma-
and fairly experimental style. It wasn't until the Fall of jor cities transformed to shantytowns. There is not re-
Constantinople that the Ottomans adopted Byzantine ar- ally much of a gem in the name of modern architecture
chitecture almost full scale with some adjustments. How- in Turkey. Steel-and-glass skyscrapers, on the other
ever, the Ottoman imperial architecture possibly reached hand, are now slowly and sparsely being erected in ma-
its zenith not in Istanbul, but in Edirne—in the form of jor cities, one example where they concentrate much as
Selimiye Mosque, a work of Sinan, the great Ottoman to form a skyline view being the business district of Is-
architecture of 16th century. tanbul, although hardly impressive compared with major
metropolises around the world known for their skyscraper
19th century brought back the Greek and Roman taste of filled skylines.
architectural styles, so there was a huge explosion of neo-
classical architecture, as much fashionable in Turkey
as in the much of the rest of the world at that time.
Galata side of Istanbul, Izmir (though unfortunately most
of which was lost to the big fire of 1922), and numer- 1.8.2 Itineraries
ous towns along the coasts, one most prominent and well
preserved example being Ayvalık, quickly filled with el-
egant neo-classical buildings. At the same time, people • Along the Troad Coast — ancient legends intertwine
in more inland locations were favouring pleasant, more with beautiful landscapes and the deep blue Aegean
traditional, and less pretentious half-timbered white- Sea
washed houses, which form picturesque towns such as
Safranbolu, Beypazarı, and Şirince in northern, central,
and western part of the country respectively. It was
• Lycian Way — walk along the remotest section
also this time beautiful and impressive wooden man-
of the country’s Mediterranean coast, past ancient
sions of Istanbul’s seaside neighbourhoods and islands
cities, forgotten hamlets, and balmy pine forests
1.10. BUY 15
1.9 Do
While Turkey is rightly renowned for its warm Mediter-
ranean beaches, wintersports, especially skiing, is very
much a possibility—and indeed a popular activity—in
the mountainous interior of the country between Octo-
ber and April, with a guaranteed stable snowcover and
constant below freezing temperatures between Decem-
ber and March. Some more eastern resorts have longer
periods of snowcover. TRY1 coin with a portrait of Atatürk
Most popular wintersports resorts include Uludağ near
Bursa, Kartepe near Izmit, Kartalkaya near Bolu, and worth the hassle as they are usually crowded and do not
Ilgaz near Kastamonu in the northwest of the country, Pa- give better rates than exchange offices. You can see the
landöken near Erzurum, and Sarıkamış near Kars in the rates an office offers on the (usually electronic) boards lo-
northeast of the country, and Erciyes near Kayseri in the cated somewhere near its gate. Euros and US dollars are
central part. Saklıkent near Antalya is touted to be one of the most useful currencies, but pounds sterling (Bank of
the places where you can ski in the morning and swim in England notes only, not Scottish or Northern Irish notes),
the warm waters of Mediterranean down the coast in An- Swiss francs, Japanese yen, Saudi riyals, and a number
talya in the afternoon, though snowcover period in Sak- of other currencies are also not very hard to exchange.
lıkent is desperately short as not to let this happen every It is important to remember that most exchangers accept
year. only banknotes, it can be very hard to exchange foreign
coins. In some places, where there is a meaningful ex-
planation for it, more uncommon currencies can also be
1.10 Buy exchanged, too, for example Australian dollars may be
exchanged in Çanakkale where grandchildren of Anzacs
gather to commemorate their grandfathers every year, or
1.10.1 Money in Kaş, which is located just across the Greek island of
Kastelorizo, which in turn has a large diaspora in Aus-
In 2005, Turkey dropped six zeroes from its currency,
tralia. As a general rule, if a place attracts many visitors
thus making each post-2005 lira worth one million pre-
from a country, then it is usually possible to exchange that
2005 lira (or so called “old lira”). During the transition
country’s currency there.
period between 2005 and 2009, the currency was briefly
called new lira (yeni lira) officially. Since 1 Jan 2009, Tourism-oriented industries in tourism-oriented towns, as
a new series of banknotes and coins have been intro- well as shops where big amounts of money change hands,
duced and the currency is again simply called lira (offi- like supermarkets, in most parts of the country, gener-
cially Turkish lira, Türk Lirası, locally symbolised TL, or ally accept foreign currency (usually limited to Euro and
occasionally £; don't be confused if you see the currency American dollars only), but the rates they accept the cur-
symbolised YTL or ytl, standing for yeni lira), The ISO rency are usually a little lower than those of exchange of-
4217 code is TRY, and this is used throughout our guide fices. Ask first if they accept foreign currency.
to avoid confusion. The lira is divided into 100 kuruş (ab- In September 2013:
breviated kr). Since 1 Jan 2010, pre-2009 banknotes and
coins (those bearing yeni lira and yeni kuruş) are not le-
• USD1 = TRY2.06
gal tender, but can be exchanged at certain banks until 31
Dec 2019. • €1 = TRY2.71
There is a new Turkish lira symbol, created by the
Central Bank of the Republic of Turkey in 2012 after • GBP1 = TRY3.21
a country-wide contest.
Banknotes are in TRY5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 denom- 1.10.3 Credit cards and ATMs
inations. Coins of 1 (very rare in circulation), 5, 10, 25
and 50 kuruşes are legal tender. There’s also a TRY1 Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted, American Ex-
coin. press much less so. All credit card users have to enter
their PIN codes when using their cards. Older, magnetic
card holders are excepted from this, but remember that,
1.10.2 Currency Exchange unlike some other places in Europe, salespeople haves the
legal right to ask you to show a valid ID with a photo on
There are legal exchange offices in all cities and almost to recognize that you are the owner of the card. ATMs
any town. Banks also exchange money, but they are not are scattered throughout the cities, concentrated in central
parts. It is possible to draw Turkish lira (and rarely for- tient. Since foreigners (especially Western people) aren’t
eign currency) from these ATMs with your foreign card. expected to be good at bargaining, sellers are quick to re-
Any major town has at least one ATM. ject any bargaining attempt (or are at least quick to look
ATMs ask whether to provide instructions in English or like so), but be patient and wait, the price will fall! (Don’t
in Turkish (and sometimes some other languages, too) forget, even if you are successful at your bargaining at-
as soon as you insert a foreign card (or a Turkish card tempt, when you get your credit card out of your wallet,
which is not the operating bank’s own). When withdraw- rather than cash, the agreed price may rise again, though
ing money from ATMs, if the ATM in question does not probably to a lower level than the original one)
belong to the bank that you already have an account in,
VAT refund — You can get a VAT refund (currently
they charge some percentage (generally 1%) of what you18% or 23% on most items) if you are not a citizen or
withdraw from your account each time. This percentage permanent resident of Turkey. Look for the blue “Tax-
is higher for advance withdrawing with your credit card.
Free” sticker on the windowpane or entrance of the shops,
No establishments require a commission surcharge when these kind of shops are the only places you can get a VAT
using a credit card. refund. Don’t forget to take the necessary papers from the
shop that will enable you for a VAT reclaim when leaving
Turkey.
1.10.4 Tipping Although Turkey is in a customs union with the Euro-
pean Union for some goods, unlike the situation in the
In general, tipping is not considered obligatory. However, EU, there is currently not an initiative to abolish duty-free
it is very common to leave a 5% to 10% tip in restaurants shops in the airports.
if you're satisfied with the service. At high-end restau-
rants a tip of 10-15% is customary. It is NOT possible to
add tip to the credit card bill. It is very common amongst 1.10.6 What to buy?
Turkish people to pay the bill with a credit card and leave
the tip in cash or coins. Most waiters will bring your cash Apart from classical tourist souvenirs like postcards and
back in coins as much as possible, that’s because Turkish trinkets, here are a few of what you can bring back home
people don't like to carry coins around and usually leave from Turkey.
them at the table.
• Leather clothing — Turkey is the biggest leather
Taxi drivers do not expect tips, but it is common practice
producer in the world, so the leather clothing is
to let them keep the change. If you insist on taking exact
cheaper than elsewhere. Many shops in Laleli,
change back, ask for para üstü? (pronounced “pah-rah
Beyazıt, Mahmutpaşa districts of Istanbul (all
oos-too”, which means “change”). Driver will be reluc-
around the tram line which goes through Sultanah-
tant to give it at first, but you will eventually succeed.
met Square) are specialized on leather.
If you are fortunate enough to try out a Turkish bath, it
is customary to tip 15% of the total and split it up among • Carpets and kilims — Many regions in Turkey
all of the attendants. This is an important thing to keep produce handmade kilims and carpets. Though
in mind when tipping in Turkey, and will ensure your ex- the symbols and figures differentiate depending on
perience goes smoothly and is enjoyable. the region in which the carpet is produced, they
Supermarket cashiers usually round up the total sum to are generally symbollic expressions based on an-
the next 5 kuruş if you pay in cash (the exact sum is ex- cient Anatolian religions and/or nomadic Turkic life
tracted when paid by a credit card though). This is not which takes shape around shamanic beliefs more
a kind of involuntary tip, as the 2-3-4 kuruşes don’t go than 1,000 years ago. You can find shops special-
into their pockets. It is simply because they are not ad- ized on handmade carpets and kilims in any major
equately supplied with enough 1 kuruş coins as it is very city, tourist spot and Sultanahmet Area.
rare in circulation. So don’t be surprised if the change
given to you is short of a few kuruşes from what should You seriously cannot go anywhere in Turkey without
be given to you according to what the electronic board ofsomeone trying to sell you a carpet. People will approach
you on the street, engage in a little friendly conversation
the till says. It is totally okay to pay the exact sum if you
have enough number of 1 kuruş coins. about where you're from, how do you like Turkey, and
“would you like to come with me to my uncle’s shop? It’s
just around the corner, and has the best authentic kilims.”
1.10.5 Bargaining It can be irritating if you let it get to you, but remember
that a large part of these people’s economy comes from
In Turkey, bargaining is a must. One can bargain ev- tourist’s wallets so you can't blame them for trying.
erywhere that doesn’t look too luxurious: shops, hotels,
bus company offices, and so on. During your bargain- • Silk — Dresses and scarves. Although can be
ing, don’t look so impressed and interested, and be pa- found in many parts of the country, silk fans should
1.11. EAT 17
head for Bursa and before that, pick up basics of wood ash is added to hot water and olive oil mix. Re-
bargaining. member – supermarkets out of the Aegean Region
are generally offering no more than industrial tallow
• Earthenware — Handmade Cappadocian pottery based soaps full of chemicals. In cities out of the
(amphoras, old-style plates, flowerpots etc.) are Aegean Region, natural olive oil soap can be found
made of local salty clay. Salt content of clay, thanks in shops specialized in olive and olive oil. Some
to salt spray produced by the Salt Lake –which is the of these shops are even offering ecological soaps:
second largest lake in Turkey- in the heartland of made of organic olive oil and sometimes with addi-
Central Anatolia, is what makes local earthenware tions of organic essential oils.
top quality. In some Cappadocian towns, it is possi-
ble to see how these artifacts are produced, or even • Other soaps unique to Turkey are: laurel soaps
to experience producing one, at the dedicated work- (defne sabunu) which is produced mainly in Antakya
shops. Tiles with classical Ottoman motives that are (Antioch), soaps of Isparta enriched with rose oil
produced in Kütahya are also famous. which is produced abundantly in the area around Is-
parta, and bıttım sabunu, a soap made out of the oil
of seeds of a local variety of pistachio tree native to
• Turkish delight and Turkish coffee — If you like
the mountains of Southeastern Region. In Edirne,
these during your Turkey trip, don’t forget to take a
soaps shaped as various fruits are produced. Not
few packages back home. Available everywhere.
used for their lather, rather they make a good assort-
ment when different “fruits” are placed in a basket
• Honey — The pine honey (çam balı) of Marmaris on a table, they fill the air with their sweet scent as
is famous and has a much stronger taste and con- well.
sistency than regular flower honeys. Although not
easily attained, if you can find, don’t miss the honey • Olive-based products apart from soap — Other
of Macahel valley, made out of flowers of a temper- olive-based products to give a try are olive oil sham-
ate semi-rainforest, which is almost completely out poos, olive oil based eau de colognes and zeyşe, ab-
of human impact, in the far northeastern Black Sea breviation from the first syllables of zeytin şekeri, a
Region. dessert similar to chestnut desserts, but made from
olives.
• Chestnut dessert — Made out of syrup and chest-
nuts grown on the foothills of Mt. Uludağ, chestnut WARNING! Taking any antique (defined as something
dessert (kestane şekeri) is a famous and tasty product more than 100 years old) out of Turkey is subject to heavy
of Bursa. There are many variations, such as choco- restrictions or, in many cases, forbidden. If someone of-
late coated ones. Chestnut dessert can be found in fers to sell you an antique, either he/she is a liar trying
elsewhere, too, but relatively more expensive and in to sell cheap imitations or he/she is committing a crime
smaller packages. which you are an accessory to, if you purchase the item.
• Meerschaum souvenirs — Despite its name mean-

ing “sea foam” which it resembles, meerschaum 1.11 Eat
(lületaşı) is extracted only in one place in the world:
landlocked Eskişehir province in the extreme north-
west part of Central Anatolia Region. This rock,
similar to gypsum at sight, is carved into smoking
pipes and cigarette holders. It has a soft and creamy
texture and makes for a great decorative item. Avail-
able at some shops in Eskişehir.
• Castile (olive oil) soap — Natural, a silky touch on

your skin, and a warm Mediterranean atmosphere in
your bathroom. Absolutely cheaper than those to be
found in Northern and Western Europe. Street mar-
kets in the Aegean Region and southern Marmara
Region is full of olive oil soap, almost all of which
are handmade. Even some old folk in the Aegean Adana kebap, a skewer of minced meat spiced with chili and
Region is producing their castile soaps in the tra- topped with pide bread, a speciality of Adana
ditional way: during or just after the olive har-
vest, neighbours gather in yards around large boil- Turkish cuisine combines Mediterranean, Central Asian,
ers heated by wood fire, then lye derived from the Caucasian, and Arabic influences, and is extremely rich.
Beef is the most important meat (lamb is also common ties which are vegetarian in content. A vegetarian would
but pork is very hard to find although not illegal), and be very happy in the Aegean region, where all kinds of
eggplant (aubergine), onion, lentil, bean, tomato, garlic, wild herbs are eaten as main meals, either cooked or raw,
and cucumber are the primary vegetables. An abundance dressed with olive oil. But a vegetarian would have real
of spices is also used. The main staples are rice (pilav), difficulty in searching for food especially in Southeast-
bulgur wheat and bread, and dishes are typically cooked ern region, where a dish without meat is not considered a
in vegetable oil or sometimes butter. dish. At such a place, supermarkets may help with their
There are many kinds of specialized restaurants to choose shelves full of canned vegetables, or even canned cooked
olive-oil courses and fresh fruits. If you are a vegetarian
from, since most do not prepare or serve other kinds of
food. Traditional Turkish restaurants serve meals daily and going to visit rural areas of Southeastern region, bet-
ter take your canned food with you, as there will be no
prepared and stored in a bain-marie. The meals are at
the entrance so you can easily see and choose. Kebapçis supermarkets to rescue you.
are restaurants specialized in many kinds of kebab. Some
Kebab restaurants serve alcohol while others don't. There 1.11.2 Desserts
are subtypes like ciğerci, Adana kebapçısı or İskender ke-
bapçısı. Fish restaurants typically serve meze (cold olive
oil dishes) and Rakı or wine. Dönerci’s are prevalent
through country and serve döner kebap as a fast food.
Köfeci’s are restaurants with meatballs (Köfte) served as
main dish. Kokoreçci, midyeci, tantunici, mantıcı, gö-
zlemeci, lahmacuncu, pideci, çiğ köfteci, etsiz çiğ köfteci
are other kinds of local restaurants found in Turkey which
specialization in one food.
A full Turkish meal at Kebab restaurant starts with a soup,
often lentil soup (mercimek çorbasi), and a set of meze ap-
petizers featuring olives, cheese, pickles and a wide vari-
ety of small dishes. Meze can easily be made into a full
meal, especially if they are consumed along with rakı.
The main course is usually meat: a common dish type
and Turkey’s best known culinary export is kebab (ke- Turkish delight
bap), grilled meat in various forms including the famous
döner kebap (thin slices of meat shaved from a giant ro-
Some Turkish desserts are modeled on the sweet and
tating spit) and şişkebab (skewered meat), and a lot more
nutty Arabic kind: famous dishes include baklava, a
others. Köfte (meatball) is a variation of the kebab. There
layered pastry of finely ground nuts and phyllo dough
are hundreds of kinds of köfte throughout Anatolia, but
soaked in honey and spices, and Turkish Delight (lokum),
only about 10 to 12 of them are known to the residents
a gummy confection of rosewater and sugar. There are
of the larger cities, kike İnegöl köfte, Dalyan köfte, sulu
also many more kinds of desserts prepared using milk
köfte etc.
predominantly, such as kazandibi, keşkül, muhallebi, süt-
Eating on the cheap is mostly done at Kebab stands, which laç, tavuk göğsü, güllaç etc.
can be found everywhere in Istanbul and other major
cities. For the equivalent of a couple dollars, you get a full
loaf of bread sliced down the middle, filled with broiled 1.11.3 Breakfast
meat, lettuce, onions, and tomatoes. For North Ameri-
cans familiar with donairs wrapped in pita bread or wraps, Turkish Breakfast, tend to comprise of çay (tea), bread,
you should look for the word “Dürüm” or “Dürümcü" on olives, feta cheese, tomato, cucumber and occasionally
the windows of the kebab stands and ask for your donair spreads such as honey and jam. This can become very
kebab to be wrapped in a dürüm or lavaş bread depending monotonous after a while. A nice alternative to try
on the region. (should you have the option) is Menemen: a Turkish
variation on scrambled eggs/omelet. Capsicum (Red Bell
Pepper), onion, garlic and tomato are all combined with
1.11.1 Vegetarians eggs. The meal is traditional cooked (and served) in a
clay bowl. Try adding a little chili to spice it up and make
Vegetarian restaurants are not common, and can be found sure to use lots of bread as well for a filling hot breakfast.
only in very central parts of big cities and some of the Bread is omnipresent in Turkey, at any given meal you'll
tourist spots. However, every good restaurant offers veg- be presented with a large basket of crusty bread.
etable dishes, and some of the restaurants offering tradi- Ubiquitous simit (also known as gevrek in some Aegean
tional “ev yemeği” (“home food”) have olive-oil speciali- cities such as Izmir), much like bagel but somewhat thin-
1.12. DRINK 19
ner, crustier, and with roasted sesame seeds all over, is

available from trolleys of street vendors in virtually any
central part of any town and city at any time except late
at night. Perhaps with the addition of Turkish feta cheese
(beyaz peynir) or cream cheese (krem peynir or karper), a
couple of simits make up a filling and a very budget con-
scious breakfast (as each costs about 0.75 TL), or even a
lunch taken while on the go.
1.12 Drink
A glass of ayran
Turkish coffee served with water and Turkish delight in Istanbul

the Taurus Mountains, ask for “köpüklü ayaran' or “yayık
Turkish coffee (kahve), served in tiny cups, is strong and ayaranı", a variety of the drink much loved by locals.
tasty, just be careful not to drink the sludgy grounds at the
bottom of the cup. It is very different from the so-called Boza is a traditional cold, thick drink that originates from
Turkish coffees sold abroad. Sade kahve is served black, Central Asia, but is also common in several Balkan coun-
while as şekerli, orta şekerli and çok şekerli will get you a tries. It is fermented bulgur (a kind of wheat) with sugar
little, some or a lot of sugar in your cup. and water additions. Vefa Bozacisi is the best known
and traditional producer of boza in Istanbul. In Ankara,
Instant coffees, cappuccinos, and espressos are gaining you get excellent Boza from Akman Boza Salonu in the
more popularity day by day, and can be found with many old city in Ulus. Boza can also be found on the shelves
different flavours. of many supermarkets, especially in winter, packaged in
Despite coffee taking a substantial part in national cul- 1-litre PET bottles. However these bottled bozas lack
ture, tea (çay) is also very popular and is indeed the usual the sourness and consistency of traditional boza, they are
drink of choice. Most Turks are heavy drinkers of tea sweeter and less dense.
in their daily lives. Having only entered the scene in the Sahlep (or Salep) is another traditional hot drink, made
1930s, tea quickly gained ground against coffee due to from milk, orchid root and sugar, typically decorated with
the fact that Yemen, the traditional supplier of coffee to cinnamon. It is mostly preferred in winter and can be
Turkey then, was cut off from the rest of the Ottoman found in cafés and patisseries (pastane) and can be easily
Empire in the early 20th century, and the first tea plants confused by the looks of it with cappuccino. You can
took root in Eastern Karadeniz after some unsuccessful also find instant sahlep in many supermarkets sold with
trials to grow it in the country, as a result of protectionist the name Hazır Sahlep.
economic policies that were put into effect after World
War I. Be careful, if your tea is prepared by locals, it Red Poppy Syrup is one of the traditional Turkish drinks
can be much stronger than you're used to. Although it made of red poppy petals, water and sugar by natural
is not native-typical and a rather touristic feature, you ways. Bozcaada is famous with red poppy syrup.
have to taste the special apple tea (elma çayı) or sage International brands of colas, sodas and fruit-flavoured
tea (adaçayı, literally island tea) of Turkey. sodas are readily available and much consumed alongside
Ayran is a popular drink of water and yoghurt not un- some local brands. Please note, in Turkish, soda means
like the Finnish/Russian “buttermilk” or Indian “lassi”, mineral water, whereas what is called as soda in English
but always served without sugar (and, in fact, typically is gazoz or sade gazoz in Turkish.
with a little salt added). If you're travelling by bus over While a significant proportion of Turks are devout Mus-
there is Talay Kuntra .

There are two major Turkish breweries. Efes and Tekel
Birası are two widely known lagers. In addition, you can
find locally brewed Tuborg, Miller, Heineken, and Carls-
berg too.
1.13 Smoke
All cigarettes are sold freely and are still relatively cheap
by western standards.
Although many, if not most, Turkish people do smoke,
there is a growing health awareness about smoking and
the number of smokers is slowly but steadily declining,
and the rigid smoking ban that was introduced is surpris-
ingly enforced.
A cup of salep Smoking in the presence of someone who does not smoke
in a public place requires their permission. If someone
does not like the smoke, they will ask you not to smoke
or they will cough, then just stop and apologize. This is
what the locals do.
If you are invited to someone’s home, do not smoke unless
the host does first, and after he/she does, then you can ask
for his/her permission to smoke.
If you are in a place where people smoke, you can smoke,
but if you are in place where no one is smoking, ask them
first for their permission.
1.13.1 Smoking ban

Three members of a Turkish family toast with rakı during a meal
Smoking is banned in public places (e.g. airports, metro
stations and indoor train stations, schools, universities,
lims, alcoholic beverages are legal, widely available, and government administration buildings, in all workplaces,
thoroughly enjoyed by the locals. The local firewater of concert halls, theatres and cinemas) and on public trans-
choice is rakı, an anise-flavoured liquor double distilled port (airplanes, ferries, trains, suburban trains, subways,
from fermented grape skin. It is usually mixed with water trams, buses, minibuses, and taxis). Smoking is banned
and drunk with another glass of iced water to accompany in sports stadiums, the only outdoor areas where this ban
it. You may order 'tek' (single) or 'duble' (double) to in- is extended. It is a finable offence of TRY69. Sepa-
dicate the amount of rakı in your glass. Make sure to try rately smoking is also banned, in restaurants, bars, cafes,
it but don't overindulge as it is very potent. Remember traditional teahouses, the remaining air-conditioned pub-
not to mix it with anything else. There is a wide selection lic places including department stores and shopping mall
of different types in supermarkets. Mey , and Efe Rakı restaurants; and there are no exceptions as indoor non-
are two of the biggest producers. Only the connaisseurs smoking sections are also banned. Apart from a fine for
know which type is the best. Yeni Rakı which is a decent smokers, there is a heavy fine of TRY5,000 for owners,
variety has the wıdest distribution and consumption. for failing to enforce the ban properly and that is why it
As for Turkish wine, the wines are as good as the local is strictly enforced by these establishments.
grape varieties. Kalecik Karası from Ankara, Karasakız In Istanbul, especially in non-tourist areas, some
from Bozcaada, Öküzgözü from Elmalı, Boğazkere from bars/restaurants/music venues and even work places will
Diyarbakır are some of the most well-known varieties. bring you an ashtray as there will be many people smok-
The biggest winemakers are Kavaklıdere , Doluca , ing inside, even though there is a sign on the wall for-
Sevilen , and Kayra with many good local vineyards es- bidding it, many people consider it to be up to the dis-
pecially in the Western part of the country. In addition cretion of the owners/workers of the building. However,
liquory fruit wines of Şirince near Izmir are well worth bars/restaurants/music venues in tourist areas (e.g. Bey-
tasting. One specific sweet red wine to try while you're oğlu, Sişli etc...) are relentlessy “raided” (and in case of
1.14. SLEEP 21
any violations – not just for flouting the smoking ban – tional Youth Hostel Federation, IYHF). However, guest-
fined heavily) by the zabıta (municipal official), so these houses/pensions (pansiyon) provide cheaper accommo-
establishments will much less likely dare to violate the dation than hotels, replacing the need for hostels for low-
bans. Although such “raids” will be disconcerting for cost accommodation, regardless of their visitors’ age.
tourists, customers will not be affected as the zabıta does Please note, pansiyon is the word in Turkish which is also
not issue fines to customers – at most will be asked to used for small hotels with no star rankings, so somewhere
leave the place, in case of serious violations. with this name does not automatically mean it must be
However the smoking ban is openly flouted in government very cheap (expect up to 50 YTL daily per each person).
B&Bs are also generally covered by the word pansiyon,
administration buildings, where the civil servants seem to
think that they are somehow above the law. as most of them present breakfast (not always included
in the fee, so ask before deciding whether or not to stay
Outside the cities and tourist resorts, the smoking ban is there).
less rigidly enforced in small towns and in the villages
hardly at all, because the municipal police (zabıta) rarely Unique in the country, Olympos to the southwest of An-
comes to these places to enforce it and issue fines, leading talya is known for its pensions welcoming visitors in the
to some establishments and its customers to ignore this, wooden tree-houses or in wooden communal sleeping
but even there it is nevertheless best to follow the less en- halls.
forced smoking ban. It is possible to rent a whole house with two rooms, a
While smoking is strictly prohibited on public transport, kitchen, a bathroom, and necessary furnitures such as
you will see some taxi drivers smoking in their taxis, beds, chairs, a table, a cooker, pots, pans, usually a re-
which are also included in the smoking ban, but is the only frigerator and sometimes even a TV. Four or more people
form of public transport where this ban is openly flouted. can easily fit in these houses which are called apart hotels
and can be found mainly in coastal towns of Marmara and
When entering the taxi just request the taxi driver not to
smoke, and he will politely oblige - in fact most of them Northern Aegean regions, which are more frequented by
Turkish families rather than foreigners. They are gener-
will put out their cigarettes immediately once they see a
customer hailing them or approaching them. ally flats in a low-story apartment building. They can be
rented for as cheap as 25 YTL daily (not per person, this
is the daily price for the whole house!), depending on lo-
cation, season and the duration of your stay (the longer
1.14 Sleep you stay, the cheaper you pay daily).
Accommodation in Turkey varies from 5-star hotels to a

simple tent pitched in a vast plateau. So the prices vary 1.14.3 öğretmenevi - teacher’s house
hugely as well.
Like Atatürk statues and crescent-and-star flags etched
into the sides of mountains, the öğretmenevi (“teacher’s
1.14.1 Hotels house”) is an integral part of the Turkish landscape.
Found in almost every city in Turkey, these government-
All major cities and tourist spots have 5-star hotels, run institutions serve as affordable guesthouses for educa-
many of them are owned by international hotel chains like tors on the road and – since anyone is welcome if space is
Hilton, Sheraton, Ritz-Carlton, Conrad to name a few. available – for those traveling on a teacher’s budget (about
Many of them are concrete blocks, however some, espe- 35TRY/person, WIFI and hot water avalaible, Breakfast
cially the ones out of cities, are bungalows with private (Khavalti) 5TRY). For the most part, these guesthouses
gardens and private swimming pools. are drab affairs, 1970s-era concrete boxes usually painted
in a shade of pink and found in some of the least interest-
If you are into holiday package kind of thing in a ing parts of town. To find the teacher’s house in a town
Mediterranean resort, you’d definitely find better rates ask around for öğretmenevi or use the address finder on
when booking back at home rather than in Turkey it- www.ogretmenevim.com
self. The difference is considerable, compared with what
you’d pay when booking at home, you may end up paying
twice as much if you simply walk in the resort. 1.14.4 Agritourism
Recently, Bugday Association has launched a project
1.14.2 Hostels and guesthouses named TaTuTa (acronym from the first syllables of
Tarım-Turizm-Takas: Agriculture-Tourism-Barter [of
Youth hostels are not widespread, there are a few in knowledge]), a kind of WWOOF-ing, which connects
Istanbul, mainly around Sultanahmet Square where Ha- farmers practicing organic/ecological agriculture and
gia Sophia and Blue Mosque are, and still fewer are rec- individuals having an interest at organic agriculture. The
ognized by Hostelling International (HI, former Interna- farmers participating in TaTuTa share a room of their
houses (or a building in the farm) with the visitors without town near Fethiye is offering art classes in summer,
charge, and the visitors help them in their garden work in specializing on photography, painting, and sculp-
return. For more about TaTuTa, see ture.
• You can take the Ottoman Turkish classes in

1.14.5 Camping and RV-camping Adatepe, a village frequented by intellectuals near
Küçükkuyu/Altınoluk in the northern Aegean Re-
There are many private estates dotting the whole coast- gion. You can also participate in philosophy
line of Turkey, which the owner rents its property for classes taking place every summer in nearby
campers. These campsites, which are called kamping Assos, organized as a continuation of the ancient
in Turkish, have basic facilities such as tap water, toilets, “agora”/”forum” tradition of Mediterranean cities.
tree shade (this is especially important in dry and hot sum-
mers of the western and southern coasts) and some pro-
• Glass workshops located around Beykoz on the
vide electricity to every tent via individual wires. Pitch-
northern Asian banks of the Bosphorus in Istanbul,
ing a tent inside the cities and towns apart from campsites
are offering one-day classes that you can learn mak-
is not always approved, so you should always ask the lo-
ing (recycled) glass and ornaments made of glass.
cal administrator (village chief muhtar and/or gendarme
jandarma in villages, municipalities belediye and/or the
local police polis in towns) if there is a suitable place near • There are many language schools where you can
the location for you to pitch your tent. Pitching a tent in study Turkish in most of the big cities. Ankara Uni-
the forest without permission is OK, unless the area is un- versity affiliated Tömer is one of the most pop-
der protection as a national park, a bioreserve, a wildlife ular language schools in Turkey and has branches
refuge, a natural heritage or because of some other envi- in many big cities, including Istanbul, Ankara, and
ronmental concern. Whether it is an area under protec- Izmir among others.
tion or not, setting fire in forests apart from the designated
fireplaces in recreational (read “picnic”) areas is forbid- • Many Turkish universities (both public and pri-
den anyway. vate) are participating in pan-European student ex-
change programs (Socrates, Erasmus, and the like).
Stores offering camping gear, while present, are hard to Some also have agreements with non-European uni-
come across, being located on back alleys, underground versities, too. Check with your own university and
floors of large shopping arcades, or simply where you the one where you intend to study in Turkey.
would least expect to find them. So, unless you are ex-
actly sure you can obtain what you need at your destina-
• Many foreigners living in Istanbul support them-
tion, it’s best to pack along your gear if intending to camp.
selves by teaching English. Finding a good teaching
In smaller stores in non-major towns, the price of many
job is usually easier with a well-recognized certifi-
of the stuff on sale is pretty much negotiable—it is not
cate like the ones listed below:
uncommon for shop attendants to ask TRY30 for camp
stove fuel, whereas it would cost typically TRY15 or even • ITI Istanbul in 4. Levent runs Cambridge
less in another store in a neighbouring town. University’s CELTA and DELTA courses
Caravan/trailer parks cannot be found as much as they year-round
used to be; there remains only a few, if any, from the days
hippies tramped the Turkish highways with their vans—
perhaps the most famous one, the Ataköy caravan park, 1.16 Work
known amongst the RV-ers for its convenient location in
the city of Istanbul is long history (but there is another Work as an English teacher is reasonably easy to stum-
one still in operation several kilometres out in the west- ble upon. ESL teachers with a Bachelor’s Degree and
ern suburbs of the city). However, caravan riders can stay TESOL Certificate can expect to earn TRY800-2,500
overnight in numerous resting areas along the highways (monthly) and will usually teach 20–35 hours in a week.
and motorways, or virtually in any place which seems Contracts will sometimes include accommodations, air-
to be suitable. Filling the water tanks and discharging fare, and health-care.
wastewater effluent seems to matter most.
Being that import-export is huge in Turkey, there are also
many opportunities outside of teaching, though these are
often much more difficult to find and require some legal
1.15 Learn work.
• Naile’s Art Home is a marbling paper (Ebru) You need to have a work permit to work in Turkey. The
gallery and workshop located in Cappadocia. control over illegal workers have grown stricter in the past
five years with the consequence of deportation, so take the
• Kayaköy Art School , located in Kayaköy, a ghost work permit issue seriously.
1.17. STAY SAFE 23
However, if you have your own company in Turkey you move away from the area quickly if you see two or more
are allowed to “manage” it without having a work permit. people begin to argue and fight as this may be a ruse to
Setting up what is known as an FDI (foreign direct in- attract your attention while another person relieves you of
vestment) company is relatively straightforward, takes a your valuables. Be alert, this often happens very quickly.
few days and costs around TRY2,300 (April 2007). You Watch your belongings in crowded places and on public
don't need a Turkish partner, the company can be 100% transport, especially on trams and urban buses.
foreign owned and requires a minimum of two people as Avoid dark and desolate alleys at night. If you know you
shareholders. Running costs for a company average about have to pass through such a place at night, don’t take ex-
TRY2,500 per year for a small to medium enterprise, less
cessive cash with you but instead deposit your cash into
for an inactive company. the safe-box at your hotel. Stay away from demonstrat-
Owning a company allows you to be treated as Turkish ing crowds if the demonstration seems to be turning into
in respect of purchasing real estate and bypasses the need an unpeaceful one. Also in resort towns, when going to
for military permission and allows you to complete a sale beach, don’t take your camera or cell phone with you if
in one day if required. there will be no one to take care of them while you are
swimming. If you notice that your wallet has been stolen
it is wise to check the nearest trash cans before reporting
the loss to the police. It is often the case that thieves in
1.17 Stay safe Turkey will drop the wallet into the trash to avoid being
caught in possession of the wallet and proven a thief. Ob-
Dial 155 for police, from any telephone without charge. viously it is highly likely that your money will no longer
However, in rural areas there is no police coverage, so be in it, but there is a chance that your credit cards and
dial 156 in such a place for jandarma (Military Police), a papers will be.
military unit for rural security.
See also scams section of Istanbul article to have an idea
Big cities in Turkey, especially Istanbul, are not immune about what kinds of scams you may come across with
to petty crime. Although petty crime is not especially in other parts of the country too, especially the touristy
directed towards tourists, by no means are they excep- ones, not just Istanbul.
tions. Snatching, pickpocketing, and mugging are the
Upon entering some museums, hotels, metro stations, and
most common kinds of petty crime. However, recently
almost all shopping malls, especially in larger cities, you
with the developing of a camera network which watches
will notice security checkpoints similar to those found
streets and squares –especially the central and crowded
in airports. Don't worry, this is the standard procedure
ones- 24-hour a day in Istanbul, the number of snatch-
in Turkey and does not imply an immediate danger of
ing and mugging incidents declined. Just like anywhere
attack. These security screenings are also conducted in a
else, following common sense is recommended. (Please
much more relaxed way than the airports, so you will not
note that the following recommendations are for the big
have to remove your belt to avoid the alarm when walking
cities, and most small-to-mid size cities usually have no
through the metal detector.
petty crime problems at all) Have your wallet and money
in your front pockets instead of back pockets, backpack Though slightly off-topic be advised to carry passport
or shoulder bag. or other means of identification at all times. One may not
be requested to show them for a long period, then all of a
You should drive defensively at all times and take every
sudden a minibus is checked by the traffic police (or the
precaution while driving in Turkey. Drivers in Turkey
military, particularly in Eastern Turkey), or one runs into
routinely ignore traffic regulations, including driving
an officer of the law with time on his hand, and one must
through red lights and stop signs, and turning left from
show papers. Some government buildings may ask you to
the far right lane; these driving practices cause frequent
temporarily surrender your passport in return for equip-
traffic accidents. Drivers should be aware of several par-
ment such as headphones for simultaneous translation etc.
ticular driving practices prevalent in Turkey. Drivers who
and you may find your passport stored in an open box
experience car troubles or accidents pull to the side of
along with the locals ID cards which may be a little dis-
the road and turn on their emergency lights to warn other
concerting. Hotels may request you to hand your passport
drivers, but many drivers place a large rock or a pile of
in until you paid the bill, which puts you into an awkward
rocks on the road about 10-15 meters behind their vehi-
situation. Referring to the police always made them hand
cles instead of turning on emergency lights. You may not
the passport back, once the registration procedure was
use a cell phone while driving. It is strictly prohibited by
finalized. Showing a personal visiting card, one or two
law.
credit cards or knowing the address of a respectable hotel
Don’t exhibit your camera or cellphone for too long if it may solve the no-papers situation, but any self-respecting
is a new and/or expensive model (they know what to take officer will tell you that you are in the wrong, and will
away, no one will bother to steal a ten-year-old cell phone be sorry next time. If treated politely however police and
as it would pay very little). The same goes for your wallet, military can be quite friendly and even offer rides to the
if it’s overflowing with money. Leave a wide berth and
next city (no joke intended). 1.17.2 Tourism Police

If you intend to travel to Eastern or Southeastern Anato-
lia, stay ahead of the news. Although it offers many beau- There are “Tourism Police” sections of the police depart-
tiful sights, the situation is far from secure due to ethnic ments of Ankara, Antalya, Istanbul (in Sultanahmet), and
strife and protests, sometimes resulting in violence. The Izmir providing help specifically for tourists, where trav-
region is far from a war zone, but take precaution when ellers can report passport loss and theft or any other crim-
visiting this volatile place. The real risk of threat is not inal activity, they may have become victims of. The staff
very big though, if you stick on major routes and follow is multilingual and will speak English, German, French,
common sense rules (such as avoiding demonstrations). and Arabic.
Be careful when crossing the roads , as mentioned in the

get around/on foot section.
1.18 Stay healthy
Dial 112 from any telephone, anywhere, free of charge
for an ambulance.
1.17.1 Animals Food safety - Food is generally free of parasitic or bac-
terial contamination, but be prudent anyway. Look at
where local people are preferring to eat. Do not eat stuff
The Turkish wilderness is home to both poisonous and
that is sold outdoors, at least in summer and at least which
non-poisonous snake (yılan) species. In fact, humid local folk don’t eat. They can spoil fairly quickly without
forests of the northeastern Black Sea region is the habitat
needed refrigeration. Wash thoroughly and/or peel fresh
of a small-sized snake which is one of the most poisonous fruits and vegetables. They may be free of biological con-
in the world. Southern and especially southeastern parts taminants but their skin is probably heavily loaded with
(even cities) of the country have large numbers of scorpi- pesticides (unless you see the not-very-common certified
ons (akrep), so exercise caution if/when you are sleeping organic produce marker on, of course). Food in west-
on open rooftops, which is common in the southeastern ern regions of the country is OK for (western) travellers
region in summer. If you are bitten by one, seek urgent for the most part, but the more east, south, and north-
medical aid. east you go, the more unaccustomed contents in the food
As for wild mammals, presumably the most dangerous you’ll come across, like goat or goose meat or hot/heavy
ones are wolves, bears and wild boars. All of these ani- spices. These contents may or may not cause diarrhea,
mals live only in mountainous areas (of almost all regions) but it is wise to have at least some anti-diarrhea medicine
and your chance of sighting one is very low (except boars nearby, especially if you are going to travel to places a bit
which are not so rare). Wolves and bears do not attack off-beaten-track.
if you don’t follow or disturb them (or, particularly, their Water safety - However tempting it may be on a hot day,
young) aggressively, however boars are known to attack try to avoid water from public water tanks and fountains
even with only the slightest provocation.
(şadırvan), frequently found in the vicinity of mosques.
The biggest animal threat comes from stray dogs (or Also, though tap water is mostly chlorinated, it is better
sheepdogs in rural areas). Don’t assume you will come to drink only bottled water except when in remote moun-
across gangs of aggressive stray dogs next to the gate tain villages connected to a local spring. Bottled water
of Hagia Sophia, or the beach club however. They are is readily available everywhere except the most remote,
mostly found in rural areas and non-central parts of the uninhabited spots.
cities. They are usually discreet and are usually more The most common volumes for bottled water are 0.5 litre
afraid of you than you are of them. Rabies (kuduz) is en- and 1.5 L. 5 L, 8 L, 10 L, and gigantic 19 L bottles (known
demic in Turkey (and most of the world) , so anyone bit- as office jar in the West, this is the most common variety
ten by a dog or other carnivore should seek urgent treat- used in households, delivered to houses by the employees
ment, despite what you may be told by your hotel or other of specialized water selling shops, because it is far too
well meaning strangers. heavy to carry) can also be found with varying degrees
Many stray dogs you’ll see in the cities bear plastic “ear of possibility. General price for half-a-litre and one-and-
rings”. Those ear tags mean the dog was cleaned up, vac- a-half-litre bottled water is TRY0.50 and TRY1.25 re-
cinated (against rabies and a number of other diseases), spectively in kiosks/stalls in the central parts of the cities
sterilized, and then returned back to the streets as this is and towns (can be much higher in a touristy or monopo-
the most humane treatment (compare with keeping them listic place such as beach, airport, café of a much-visited
in a cage or a cage-like environment or putting them to museum, kiosk of a roadside recreation facility), while it
sleep). The process is going on, so we can assume the can be as cheap as TRY0.15 and TRY0.35 respectively
stray dog problem in Turkey will disappear in natural in supermarkets during winter (when the number of bot-
ways sometime in the future. tled water sales drop) and a little higher in summer (still
1.18. STAY HEALTHY 25
cheaper than kiosks, though). Water is served free of Dentists – There are lots of private dentist offices in the
charge in intercity buses, packaged in 0.25 lt plastic cups, cities, especially along the main streets. Look for the diş
whenever you request from the steward. In kiosks, wa- hekimi signs around, it won’t take long before you see one.
ter is sold chilled universally, sometimes so cold that you Most dentists work on an appointment, although they may
have to wait the ice to thaw to be able to drink it. Su- check or start the treatment on your turning up without an
permarkets provide it both reasonably chilled and also at appointment if their schedule is okay. A simple treatment
room temperature. for a tooth decay costs about TRY40 on the average.
If you have no chance of finding bottled water –for exam- Ordinary toothbrushes and pastes (both local and interna-
ple, in wilderness, up in the eastern highlands- always boil tional brands) can be obtained from supermarkets. If you
your water; if you have no chance of boiling the water, use want something special, you may check out pharmacies.
chlorine tablets –which can be provided from pharmacies It is okay to brush teeth with tap water.
in big cities-, or devices like LifeStraw. Also avoid swim- Pharmacies - There are pharmacies (eczane in Turkish)
ming in fresh water, which you are not sure about its pu- in all cities and many towns. Pharmacies are open 08:30-
rity, and at seawater in or near the big cities –unless a 19:00, however every town has at least one drugstore on
beach which is declared safe to swim exists. And lastly, duty overnight (nöbetçi eczane), all other pharmacies in
be cautious about water, not paranoid. the town usually display its name, address and telephone
Hospitals – In Turkey, there are two kinds of hospitals numbers on their windows. Most basic drugs, including
(hastane)-private and public. Private hospitals are run painkillers such as Aspirin, are sold over the counter, al-
by associations, private parties, and private universities. though only in pharmacies.
Public hospitals are run by the Ministry of Health, pub- Mosquitoes - Keeping a mosquito repellent handy is a
lic universities, and state-run social security institutions. good idea. Although the risk of malaria anywhere in the
All mid-to-big size cities, as well as major resort towns,
country is long gone (except the southernmost areas near
have private hospitals, more than one in many cities, but the Syrian border which used to have a very low level
in a small town all you can find will probably be a pub-
of risk until up to 1980s), mosquitoes can be annoying
lic hospital. Be aware that public hospitals are generally especially in coastal areas out of cities, including vaca-
crowded. So expect to wait some time to be treated. But
tion towns at nights between June and September. In
for emergency situations this won't be a problem. Al- some towns, especially the ones near the deltas, mosquito
though this is not legal, you may also be denied entry to
population is so large that people desert the streets dur-
the public hospitals for expensive operations if you don’t ing the “mosquito raid” which occurs between the sunset
have a state-run national (Turkish) insurance or a neces- and one hour after that. DEET-containing aerosol repel-
sary amount of cash for prepayment which replaces it, lents (some are suitable to apply to the skin while others,
though showing a respected credit card may solve this the ones that are in tall tin cans are for making a room
problem. Emergency situations are exception and you'll mosquito-free before going to bed, not to be applied onto
be treated without prepayment etc. A travel health insur- skin, so choose what you buy wisely) can be obtained
ance is highly recommended because the better private from supermarkets and pharmacies. There are also solid
hospitals operate with the “user-pays” principle and their repellents coming in a tablet form which are used with
rates are much inflated compared with the public hospi- their special devices indoors having an electricity socket.
tals. Also make sure your insurance includes air transport They release scentless chemicals into the air of the room
(like a helicopter) if you are going to visit rural/wilderness which disturb the senses of mosquitoes and make them
areas of Black Sea or Eastern regions, so you can be dis- unable to “find” you. The tablets, together with their de-
patched to a city with high-standard hospitals on time. In vices, can also be obtained from supermarkets and phar-
the outlying hoods of cities, there are usually also poli- macies. Beware! You shouldn’t touch those tablets with
clinics which can treat simpler illnesses or injuries. In bare hands.
the villages all you can find are little clinics (sağlık ocağı,
literally “health-house”) which have a very limited supply Crimean-Congo hemorrhagic fever (Kırım-Kongo
and staff, though they can effectively treat simple illnesses kanamalı ateşi in Turkish, shortly KKKA) is a serious
or provide antibody against, for example, snake bite. On viral disease and transmitted by a tick (kene) species. It
road signage, hospitals (and roads leading to hospitals) can kill the infected person in a very short time, usually
are shown with an “H” (over the dark blue background), within three or four days. This disease has claimed more
whereas village clinics are shown with a red crescent sign, than 20 lives in Turkey within the past two years. The
Turkish equivalent of red cross. biggest risk is in the rural parts (not urban centres) of
Tokat, Corum, Yozgat, Amasya, and Sivas provinces, all
There is an emergency ward (acil servis) open 24 hours a situated in an area where disease-carrying tick thrives
day in every hospital. Suburban policlinics don’t have to because of the area’s location between the humid climate
provide one, but some of them are open 24-hr anyway. of maritime Black Sea Region and arid climate of
Village clinics do certainly have a much limited opening Central Anatolia. Authorities recommend to wear light
hours (generally 8 am to sunset). coloured clothing which makes distinguishing a tick
clinged to your body easier. It’s also recommended to much less than European women do, so they are rarer.
wear long trousers rather than shorts if you plan to walk They are available only in some of the pharmacies.
through dense and/or tall grass areas (the usual habitat Hamam - If you haven't been to one, you've missed one
for ticks). If you see a tick on your body or clothing, in of life’s great experiences and never been clean. You can
no means try to pull it out since this may cause the catch your inner peace with history and water in a bath
tick’s head (and its mouth where it carries the virus) (hamam). See hamams in Istanbul.
sticking inside your skin. Instead, go to the nearest
hospital immediately to seek urgent expert aid. Being
late to show up in hospital (and to diagnose) is number
one killer in this disease. Symptoms are quite like that of 1.19 Respect
flu and a number of other illnesses, so doctor should be
informed about the possibility of Crim.-Cong. hemorr. 1.19.1 Things to do
fever and be shown the tick if possible.
Coastal Black Sea Region, Marmara Region, Aegean and Turks are a very friendly, polite and hospitable people,
Mediterranean coasts, and East Anatolia are generally sometimes even to a fault.
deemed free of this disease (and also free of the disease-
• When you are invited into a Turkish home, make
carrying species of tick) with no casualties. But in the
sure to bring them a gift. Anything is fine from flow-
name of being cautious, you should head for the nearest
ers to chocolate and indeed something representa-
hospital anyway if you are bitten by (most likely an in-
tive from your country (but not wine and other alco-
nocent) tick. Also remember that if you should head for
holic beverages if you are about to meet the host or if
the danger zone described above, ticks are not active in
you do not know them well enough, as many Turks,
winter. Their active period is April to October, so is the
for religious reasons or not, do not drink alcoholic
danger period.
beverages, and that is why it would be considered in-
Public restrooms - Though many main squares and appropriate as a gift). When you arrive at the house
streets in the cities have a public restroom, if you cannot take off your shoes just outside or immediately in-
manage to find one, look for the nearest mosque, where side the door, unless the owner explicitly allows you
you will see a public restroom in a corner of, or below to keep them on. Even then, it might be more polite
its courtyard. Despite the fact that there is no shortage of to remove your shoes. And if you really want their
cheap toilet papers anywhere in the country, however, you respect, thank your host for the invitation and com-
are unlikely to find toilet paper in almost any of the pub- pliment them. When inside the house, don't ask for
lic restrooms (except lavatories of restaurants –including anything for they will surely offer it. The host will
the road restaurants, hotels and most of the cafés and bars, make sure to make you feel at home, so don't take
of course). Instead, you are likely to find a bidét or a tap advantage of their kindness.
(Don't be puzzled. That’s because devout Muslims use
water instead of paper to clean up and paper usually used • People in Turkey respect elderly people, so in a bus,
as a dryer after cleaning.). So it is a good idea to have a tram, subway and in other forms public transporta-
roll of toilet paper in your backpack during your walkings tion, young(er) people will always offer you a place
for sightseeing. It is best to take your single roll of toilet to sit if you are an old(er) person as well as a handi-
paper from home or bathroom of the hotel you’re stay- capped person or a pregnant woman or have children
ing at, because the smallest size available in Turkey mar- with you.
ket is 4-rolls per package (8-rolls per package being the
commonest) which would last very long (actually longer • It is respectful to bend slightly (not a complete bow)
than your trip, unless you will do all the road down to when greeting someone older or in a position of au-
India overland). It isn’t expensive but it takes unneces- thority.
sary backpack space, or unnecessary landfill space if you
won’t use it liberally and won’t take the unused rolls back • Try to use some Turkish phrases. They will be com-
to home as an unusual souvenir from Turkey. In the better plimentary if you try, and there is no reason to be
places on the road in the country there are rest rooms that embarrassed. They realize that Turkish is very dif-
are maintained and an attendant ready to collect TRY0.50 ficult for foreigners and won't scoff at all at your mis-
to TRY1. from the tourist for the privilege of using one. takes; on the contrary, they will be delighted for try-
Restroom is tuvalet in colloquial Turkish, though you’ll ing it, even if they may not always be able to under-
more likely to see WC signs, complete with diagrams and stand your pronunciation!
doors signed Bay or Bayan (with their rather crude trans-
lations: ‘Men’, ‘Women’).
1.19.2 Things to avoid
Menstrual products – Different types and designs of
disposable pads are widely available. Look around in the Turkish people understand that visitors are usually not
supermarkets. However, Turkish women prefer tampons aware of Turkish culture and customs, and tend to be
1.19. RESPECT 27
tolerant of blunders in this regard by foreigners. There • Don't touch someone without permission. This is
are, however, some which will meet with universal disap- considered extremely rude.
proval, and these should be avoided at all costs:
• Don't bear hug or back slap someone, especially in
Politics:
formal situations and occasions and with someone
you just met and/or you do not know well enough.
• Turks in general have very strong nationalistic views,
This is considered very rude.
and would view any criticisms of their country and
expressions and attitudes insulting the Turkish flag,
• Don't use swear words during conversation or while
the republic and Atatürk - the founding father of the
talking to oneself in public. This is considered ex-
republic as very offensive and with varying degrees
tremely rude.
of hostility. To avoid getting into the bad raps of
your hosts, it is advisable to only praise the country
• Public drunkenness (especially the loud and obnox-
and avoid bringing up anything negative about it.
ious variety) is definitely not appreciated and is
frowned upon, especially in more conservative ar-
• Don't mention the Armenian Genocide, Kurdish eas of the country. Drunken tourists may also at-
separatism and the Cyprus problem. These are tract the attention of pickpockets. However, what
extremely sensitive topics and are definitely to be is absolutely not tolerated is drunkenness accompa-
avoided. Turkish society has a highly emotional ap- nied by physical aggressiveness towards other peo-
proach to these issues. ple. This may incur a fine, and if this is repeated, a
heavier fine and/or a visit to the police station may
Religion: result (and if you are a foreign tourist, deportation
from the country).
• Turkey is a predominantly Muslim country, though
secular, and although you will see varying degrees • Certain gestures, common in the western world, are
of Islamic practice in Turkey, with most Turks sub- considered rude expressions in this culture. People
scribing to a liberal form of Islam, it is extremely tend to be tolerant if they can see you are a foreigner.
rude to insult or mock some of its traditions, and They know you are probably doing it subconsciously,
ensure that you do not speak badly of the Islamic but if you take the time to keep these in mind, you
religion. The call to prayer (ezan) is read 5 times won’t have any misunderstandings. Making an ‘O’
a day from the speakers of the numerous mosques with your thumb and forefinger (as if to say “OK!”)
throughout Turkey. Do not mock or mimick these is rude because you are making the gesture for a hole
calls, as Turks are extremely proud and sensitive of - which has connotations referring to homosexuality
their heritage and culture, and will be very offended. in the Turkish psyche. Avoid clicking your tongue.
Some people do this subconsciously at the beginning
Social custom and etiquette breaches: of a sentence. It is a gesture of dismissal. Also the
“got your nose” gesture which is made by making a
• Don't try to shake hands with a devout Muslim (that fist and putting your thumb between your forefinger
is veiled) woman unless she offers her hand first, and and the middle finger is considered the equivalent of
with a devout Muslim (often recognizable with a cap the middle finger in Turkey.
and beard) man unless he offers his hand first.
• Don't blow your nose during meals, even discreetly.

1.19.3 Other things to watch for
This is considered extremely rude.
• Public displays of affection in larger cities and
tourist resorts is tolerated but might invite unneces-
• Don't pick your teeth during meals, even discreetly. sary stares from the public. In more rural areas it is
This is considered extremely rude. frowned upon and is to be avoided. Gay and lesbian
travellers should avoid any outward signs of affec-
• Do not put your feet up while sitting and try not to tion, as this will definitely invite unnecessary stares
show the bottom of your feet to someone. This is from the public. However overt displays of affec-
considered rude. tion regardless of sexual orientation is regarded as
inappropriate.
• Don't point with your finger at someone, even dis-
creetly. This is considered rude. • Avoid shouting or talking loudly in public. Talk-
ing loudly is generally considered rude, especially
• Don't chew gum while having a conversation and on public transportation. Talking on a mobile phone
during public occasions. This is considered ex- on public transportation is not considered rude but
tremely rude. normal, unless the conversation is too “private”.
1.19.4 Mosques places and women don't have to wear head scarves.
Because of religious traditions, all women are required 1.19.5 Gay and lesbian travellers
to wear head scarves and not to wear miniskirts or shorts
upon entering a mosque (or a church and synagogue). The Turkey is considered to be quite safe for gay and lesbian
same goes for the tombs of Islamic saints. If you don’t travelers, and violence against homosexuals is quite rare.
have a shawl or a scarf to put on your head, you can bor- There are no laws against homosexuality in Turkey, but
row one at the entrance. However, in big mosques that at- same-sex relationships are not recognized by the govern-
tract lots of tourists, especially in Istanbul, the head scarf ment and flaunting your orientation openly is very likely
rules are somewhat relaxed. In such mosques, no one is to draw stares and whispers.
warned about their clothes, or because of their lack of
head scarves. Even if you have to wear a head scarf, you
don't have to worry about how to wear it properly, just 1.20 Connect
put it onto the crown of your head (you may wrap it un-
der your chin or behind your neck, lest it slip), that will
Dial 112 for an ambulance in anywhere, from any tele-
be excessively adequate.
phone, without a charge. In case of a fire, dial 110; for
Also, men are required to wear trousers, not shorts, upon police, call 155. However, in rural areas there is not a
entering a mosque (or a church and synagogue), however police coverage, so dial 156 for gendarme, a military unit
nowadays no one is warned about their clothes (at least in for rural security. All these numbers are free of charge
big cities). You may find when entering a mosque in more and can be called from a telephone booth without insert-
rural areas you will be expected to follow all traditional ing a calling card, or any phone including cell phones.
procedures.
During the prayer time, worshippers choose to line in the
1.20.1 Telephone
front rows of the mosques, at such a time stay behind and
try not to be noisy. During the Friday noon prayer, which While not as common as they used to be, possibly because
is the most attended, you might be asked to leave the of the widespread use of mobile phones which are virtu-
mosque, don’t take it personally, it is because the mosque ally used by the whole population in the country, pub-
will be very crowded, there just won’t be enough room lic pay phones can still be found at the sides of cen-
for both the worshippers and the sightseers. You will be tral squares and major streets in towns and cities and
able to enter back as soon as worshippers are out of the
around post offices (PTT), especially around their outer
gate. walls. With the phase-out of old magnetic cards, public
Unlike some other Middle Eastern cultures, eating, drink- phones now operate with chip telekom cards which are
ing, smoking (which is strictly banned), talking or laugh- available in 30, 60 or 120 units and can be obtained at
ing loudly, sleeping or just lying, even sitting on the post offices, newspaper and tobacco kiosks. (However
ground inside the mosques is frowned upon in Turkish emergency numbers can be called without card or any-
culture. Public displays of affection are definitely taboo. thing from these phones.) You can also use your credit
All shoes should be removed before entering any mosque. card on these phones, though it may not work in the off
There are shoes desks inside the mosques, though you can chance. All phones in the booths have Turkish and En-
choose to hold them in your hand (a plastic bag which glish instructions and menus, many also have German and
would be used only for this purpose would help) during French in addition.
your visit. Some mosques have safeboxes with a lock in- There are also telephones available in some kiosks and
stead of shoe desks. shops where you pay cash after your call. To spot these,
look for kontürlü telefon signs. These telephones are more
Although there are “official” opening hours, which are
typically shorter than what the mosque is actually open, expensive than the ones at the booths, though.
at the entrances of the most sightseen mosques, they don’t It is estimated that approximately 98% of the popula-
really mean anything. You can visit a mosque as long as tion of Turkey lives within the coverage areas of Turkey’s
its gates are open. three cell phone line providers. Line providers from most
Despite the odd tourists who do not conform to the dress countries have roaming agreements with one or more of
code, it is best to dress conservatively and to follow all tra- these companies.
ditional procedures, when entering mosques, tombs and Pre-paid mobile phone SIM cards can be purchased for
other places of worship; not only because it is required approximately TRY20-50. These can be purchased at the
but also as a sign of respect. airport on arrival or from the many outlets in Istanbul and
At mosques and tombs that have been officially turned other large cities. Providers include Vodaphone.
into museums, there is no need to follow any traditional Here is a quick list of telephone codes for some major
procedures. Shoes are not removed when entering those cities and towns of touristic importance:
1.20. CONNECT 29
Prior to the telephone code, dial 0 for intercity calls. Telecommunication services : TTNET, DSL internet
Numbers starting with 0800 are pay-free, whereas the provider Turkcell, the largest mobile operator also pro-
ones starting with 0900 are high-fee services. 7-digit vides 3G internet Vodafone, mobile operator also pro-
numbers starting with 444 (mainly used by companies) vides 3G internet Avea,mobile operator also provides 3G
are charged as local calls wherever they are dialed in internet
Turkey.
Dial 00 prior to country code for international calls from 1.20.4 Wi - Fi
Turkey. When calling into Turkey, the international
country code that should prefix city code and phone num- Hotel: Every hotel has their own Wi-Fi. Some hotels do
ber is 90. have trouble with their network setup or the connection
due to the historical location however at the least you will
have free wi-fi at your hotel. All you have to do is to learn
1.20.2 Post the wifi password to access the internet.
Cafes:
Post offices are recognizable by their yellow and black
PTT signs. Letters and cards should be taken to a post Every café, bistro, restaurant share their internet with
office since the postboxes on the streets are rare (and their guests. Even the small restaurants now have inter-
there is no guarantee that they are emptied at all, even if net access. Stability and speed depend on where you are
you spot one). Nevertheless, Turkish Post (PTT) prints and what kind of café, bistro or restaurant you are in.
some beautiful stamps. Postage for cards and letters Starbucks, Nero etc. typically have stable wi-fi unless
costs TRY0.80 for domestic shipments, and TRY1.10 very crowded. If you are in a Starbucks all you have to
(about €0.55) for international shipments to most coun- do is connect your device (SSID should be TTNET or
tries, although it may be a little more (up to TRY1.35) for DorukNet, AND if you are in Nero DorukNet) and fill
the most distant countries; PTT website for current rates. out some basic information for verification that you have
Main post offices in cities are open 08:30-20:30, whereas to fill. After that, you are ready to go. And if you are
post offices in towns and smaller post offices in cities are in the other restaurant or cafés you can just ask to your
usually open 08:30-17:30. waiter to get SSID and Password and after that you are
ready to go.
Poste restante/general delivery letters should be sent to
an address in the format of: official full name of the Public Center and Squares:
addressee (because the receiver will be asked for an ID Municipality of Istanbul recently announced that free
card, passport or anything that can prove he or she is public wi-fi will be available in most common city cen-
proper recipient) + POSTRESTANT + name of the quarters and squares. All you have to do is (when you near of
ter/neighbourhood/district if in a city where there is more one of these centers of course) register your id via your
than one post office or name of the town where the post cell phone and you will get an access password.
office is + postal code (if known, not obligatory, gener-
ally available at the entrance or on the interior walls of theWi-Fi on the Go: There are a plenty companies that
post office itself) + the name of the province in which the rent a mobile hotspot. If you don’t have a local rental
quarter/town of the post office is located. The receiver company in your country or you want to rent one when
has to pay TRY0.50 upon receipt of mail. you are in Turkey then you can try the local options.
Rent’n Connect http://www.rentnconnect.com is one of
the local companies that has reliable service and good
1.20.3 Internet coverage, which may be ideal for tourists visiting Turkey.
The benefit of the pocket wifi’s are that you can keep these
Although not as widespread as they used to be in the last devices in your pocket and 5 to 10 people can connect via
decade with more and more Turkish households tuning in broadband speed mobile internet all the time.
DSL connections, internet cafes or net cafes are still avail-
able in reasonable numbers in cities and towns. In fact,
any major town has at least one. All of them have good
DSL connections, and price for connection is about more
or less TRY1.50/hour. Most, if not all, of these internet-
cafés also have cd-writers which are available for anyone
who makes an additional payment. Free wireless con-
nections are available at some airports, hotels and restau-
rants/cafés (especially in big cities). Some webpages are
blocked by court order ——although most internet cafes
get around these blocks by tricks on proxy settings.
Please see following web sites for information on
Chapter 2
Balikesir Province
Balıkesir Province is in northwestern Turkey.

It’s divided between the following regions:
• Northern Aegean (Akçay, Altinoluk, Ayvalik,

Burhaniye, Edremit, Güre)
• Southern Marmara (Balikesir (the provincial cap-
ital), Bandirma, Erdek, Gönen, Marmara Islands,
Sindirgi)
30
Chapter 3
Eastern Anatolia
Eastern Anatolia (Turkish: Doğu Anadolu) is a region in • Kars — city in northeast, with interesting Russian
Turkey. It occupies the mountainous east of the country architecture
and has the harshest winters.
• Malatya — the largest city in western part of Eastern
Anatolia; a city featuring lots of parks
3.1 Cities • Muş — town on the railroad to Tatvan/Lake Van
• Tatvan — on the western coast of Lake Van, eastern

terminus of railway from Istanbul, with ferry con-
nections to Van and then on to Iran.
• Tunceli
• Van — city on the eastern coast of Lake Van, with

some remnants from Urartu civilization and some
Armenian monasteries, too.
3.2 Other destinations

• Ani — the old Armenian capital
Akdamar/Akhtamar Island in the Lake Van, during the almond
blossom • Nemrut Dagi Mountain — a UNESCO World Her-
itage site, with statues on its summit
• Ardahan — town in the north, on the troad to Geor-

gia and the Turkish Black Sea coast
3.3 Understand
• Battalgazi — old town close to Malatya
• Darende — historic town with artifacts dating back

to Ottomans as well as Hittites of distant past
• Doğubeyazıt — town on Iranian border, hub for vis-

iting fascinating Ishak Pasa Palace nearby, as well as
climbing up Mt Ararat
• Elazığ — city in northwest, surrounded by moun-

tains and lakes, and the hub for visiting wonderful
old city of Harput
• Erzincan
• Erzurum — biggest city of the region, near Pa-

Rugged treeless steppes of Eastern Turkey
landöken Ski Centre
• Hakkari — the most remote city of the country, in Covering an area in which you can fit in four Switzerlands
the far southeastern reaches with still some more room, but with a population of just
31
32 CHAPTER 3. EASTERN ANATOLIA
over 6 million, Eastern Anatolia is all about lonely and day by day) highways connect the region to other Turkish
vast landscapes of mountainous terrain, with occasional regions in north, south, and west; and to Iran to east.
flat-ish plateau inflitrated inbetween.
3.3.1 Climate 3.6 Get around

While the daytime temperatures of around 30°C—yet
it can easily hit 40°C or more in relatively lower west- 3.7 See
ern parts of the region around Malatya, though—in sum-
mer make travelling in Eastern Anatolia a breeze (espe-
cially if you have arrived from the much hotter regions of • Muradiye Waterfalls (Muradiye Şelalesi). A quite
Southern and Southeastern Turkey), the nights are fairly large waterfall, usually getting frozen in winter. It is
chilly and it’s common for temperatures to go down as north of Muradiye, which is about 80 km north of
low as +12°C in late evenings, even in the hottest month Van, off the highway to Doğubeyazıt.
of August, so pack along at least a cardigan or sweater.
Eastern Anatolia is constantly under snowcover during
winter, which even shuts some non-major roads for days 3.8 Do
on end, and temperature can drop as low as a whopping
−40°C — warm clothing is more essential than ever.
3.9 Eat
3.4 Talk Meat is more or less what the whole local cuisine is de-
pendent on in the region, as a very little number of veg-
In the eastern and southeastern areas (near Iranian bor- etables can be grown in this highland with cool and short
der and around Lake Van) of the region, the mother summers.
tongue of most locals is Kurdish. However most locals,
especially younger ones, are also bilingual in Turkish, al-
though heavily accented in most cases.
Local Turkish dialect spoken in northeastern section of 3.10 Drink
the region (around Erzurum, and Kars) is far from the
standard Turkish based on Istanbul dialect and is very
close to Azerbaijani spoken in the neighbouring country 3.11 Stay safe
(to the point of being virtually identical in the eastern-
most parts of the region, around Iğdır close to the border
with Nakhchivan), although the written word always uses
standard Turkish orthography as is usual.
Zaza, another Indo-Iranian language closely related to
Kurdish, may also be heard in certain locales, especially
in the central parts of the region around Tunceli and
Bingöl.
As in Southeastern Anatolia, it is important to be cautious
with whom you are smattering Kurdish or Zaza. Trying to
strike up a conversation in those languages with a Turk-
ish official, especially one from military, can have dire
consequences.
3.5 Get in Mt Ararat, the highest mountain of Turkey
Erzurum is the main gateway to the region with fairly fre- Most towns and cities in the region are 1,500 mt above
quent air, bus, and rail connections with the rest of the the sea elevation (a fair number of which are close to
country. Other secondary-major cities with airports in- 2,000 mt), and it’s not uncommon for mountains—some
clude Malatya, and Van, both of which also has rail links of which are popular sights in themselves—to rise more
with the rest of the country, and with Iran in the case of than 3,000 mt, so make sure to take usual precautions
Van. Occasionally potholed (but getting better and wider against altitude sickness.
3.12. GO NEXT 33
3.12 Go next
Those that had enough with the chilly mountain air can
head south to much warmer (and, indeed, semi-desert)
Southeastern Anatolia. If you prefer to have a glimpse
of sea after poking about inland regions, though, you
are much better heading north to Eastern Karadeniz, the
nearest stretch of coastline backed by lush and misty
mountains, although much of region’s beaches were lost
to coastal highway. Travellers heading for major cen-
tres of western Turkey will traverse Central Anatolia
to west, while those intending to do the overland route
to India can cross the border into Iran to east from a
number of border crossings, which are located east of
Doğubeyazıt, Van, and Hakkari north to south. Just north
of Iran is Azerbaijan's Nakhchivan exclave, with a bor-
der crossing from east of Iğdır. There is also a cross-
ing on the Georgian border to north, Türkgözü north of
Kars/Ardahan. Although much less crowded than Sarp
crossing on the Black Sea coast, it isn't any faster to cross
the border there, as, for once, it’s much remoter and
harder to get a direct transportation to from major cen-
tres, and secondly it seems border formalities take longer
to finish. If Armenian ruins all over Eastern Anatolia
aroused an interest, Armenia to east across the border
awaits, although that would require a detour via Iran or
Georgia (which has much less complicated visa issues) as
the border is currently closed.
Chapter 4
Ani
Ani is a former city in Eastern Anatolia, which at its peak

served as the capital of the Armenian Empire under the
Bagratid Dynasty, rivaling the most powerful cities of
the Middle East.
Ani exudes the eerie ambiance of a ghost town sur-
rounded by the remote landscape of the rolling Turkish
steppe, the tension of the adjacent contested border, and
the heavy weight of tragic history. If you can, visit in
June, when the vast flat plains teem with wildflowers. It Church of Saint Elia atop fortress ruins in the gorge
is a truly unique and must see destination for any traveler
to the Turkish East. Ani’s golden age ended with the death of King Gagik in
1020, when Armenian power was split between his two
sons. In a series of political events that define the word
4.1 Understand Byzantine, the son who controlled Ani named the Byzan-
tine Emperor his heir, in an attempt to prevent an inva-
sion. Upon his death, the Byzantine Emperor stated his
4.1.1 History
claim upon the city, but the new King of Ani reneged on
Ani first rose to prominence in the 5th century A.D., as the deal and repulsed the Emperor’s armies. But a mere
a hilltop fortress belonging to the Armenian Kamsarakan three years later, following a series of Armenian military
Dynasty. By the ninth century, the Kamsarakan posses- defeats and a pro-Byzantine uprising in Ani, the city sur-
sions in Eastern Anatolia had merged with the Bagratid rendered itself to Byzantine control.
Dynasty, and in 956, King Ashot III moved the Armenian All these machinations, however, were rendered moot in
capital to Ani. Shortly thereafter, the Armenian Catholi- 1064 upon the arrival of the Seljuk Turks, who took the
cos moved here as well, establishing the city as the undis- city in 25 days and massacred the populace. Though the
puted center of Armenia. The city grew rapidly, and by city lived on for another six and a half centuries, it re-
the eleventh century, the city boasted more than 100,000 mained a provincial town at the edge of competing em-
citizens. At its height of power and wealth, it became pires for the rest of its history. The Seljuk Turks passed
known as the City of Forty Gates and the City of a Thou- possession of Ani to the Kurdish Shaddadids, who were
sand Churches. attacked repeatedly by the neighboring Georgian Em-
34
4.2. GET IN 35
pire at the behest of Ani’s unruly Christian population. tunately, he didn't fully comply with this order, and the
In 1199 the Georgia’s Queen Tamar conquered the Shad- monuments remain. But the Russian excavations and re-
dadids, and established the Zakarid Dynasty of Ani, un- pairs were undone, and the site has languished under what
der which the city again prospered and rebuilt. Only to can be most favorably described as neglect.
be devastated in 1236 by the invading Mongol Hordes. Ani, from the time the Ottomans seized Kars Province,
The Zakarids continued to govern the city as the vassals has sat right upon the edge of one of the world’s most hos-
of various Turkic and Persian Empires, culminating with tile borders (between Turkey and the Soviet Union, and
the Ottomans. Ani gradually faded into uninhabited ru- later Armenia), and has been situated within a Turkish
ins.
military zone that precluded tourism. Fortunately, things
have been cooling down between Turkey and Armenia,
and militant Turkish opposition to acknowledging these
4.1.2 Modern History Armenian ruins as a destination of major tourist inter-
est has subsided in recent years. (Although, you'll no-
tice the sign outside the main city gate, which lists all
of the fifteen or so empires that have controlled the re-
gion, doesn't ever even mention the Armenians who built
the city and wrote its history.) The border, visible from
the ruins, remains tense, but anyone can visit easily with-
out any sort of permit, and photography restrictions are a
thing of the (recent) past. The Turkish government now
makes friendly noises about preservation, restoration, and
excavation, but still receives low marks from international
NGOs on the job it’s doing.
4.2 Get in
Armenian frescoes deteriorating in neglect
The Russian Empire took control of Kars and the sur- Church of the Redeemer
rounding areas in the late 19th century, and the Saint Pe-
tersburg Academy of Sciences oversaw a large archaeo-
logical and restorative effort until the Russian Revolution
in 1917. The Russian scientists set up a huge museum 4.2.1 By taxi
on site of the artifacts excavated, principally in the Min-
uchihr mosque. At the moment there is no public transportation to Ani. A
Following the Russian Revolution, and the founding of major highway runs past Ani towards the Armenian bor-
the short-lived Republic of Armenia, the Ottoman milder, possibly in anticipation of the border opening, which
itary drove east into the former Russian territories, seek- could allow for new bus routes. However, it is easy to hire
ing to seize the region and to cleanse it of its ethnic a taxi for the day, ask at your hotel in Kars and expect to
Armenians. Archaeologists from the Russian-led team pay around 150 to 200 (four people) for a five hour
scrambled to salvage what they could and fled to what is trip, including two hours driving time. If you're not stay-
modern-day Armenia. During the Turkish War of In- ing the night before in Kars, just look around downtown
dependence, the Grand National Assembly of Turkey or- early in the morning for any backpacker or ask in hotel
dered the commander of its Eastern Front that the “mon- lobbies—virtually all travelers visiting Kars go to Ani, so
uments of Ani be wiped off the face of the earth.” For- you shouldn't have any trouble finding a ride in summer.
36 CHAPTER 4. ANI
The rides often leave from the small parking lot with shut-
tle rides to/from the main bus station. In winter, there are
virtually no tourists in Kars, so you may have to charter a
taxi alone.
4.2.2 By car
On many maps there is a road to Ani marked about half
way between Diğor and Kars, this road does not seem to
exist and if comıng through Diğor you're better off taking
the new road rıght outside Diğor (not signposted to Ani
but is immediately after the sign to Kars when heading
NW out of Diğor. Even more preferable is the road from
Kars to Ani, a four lane highway that leads directly to Ani.
4.3 Get around
Bovine sentries at the Ottoman palace
eleventh century. The most distinctive is perhaps the

church of Christ the Redeemer, split perfectly in half by
lightning, but still standing. Additionally there are smaller
structures, which were once homes, the remains of the
cities castle walls, and a fortress overlooking the ruins.
Other sites include the (relatively hard to find) ruins of a
Zoroastrian fire temple and a small Ottoman fort. From
the area near the fort, look carefully across the ravine to
see a collection of Karst caves that once served as home
to troglodytic Anatolians.
Map of sites at Ani
• Ani Cathedral.
Entrance fee (2014): 5 . Be sure to ask for a ticket, • Citadel.
otherwise your money may never reach the government,
and hence may not be used to improve Ani’s conservation. • City walls.
Ani covers a small area and is easily traversed on foot. • Church of Ashot.
However, access to certain areas is often restricted due to
the proximity to the Armenian border and ongoing ten- • Church of Bagarat-Arkaun.
sions between Turkey and Armenia. So make sure to ask
• Church of the Holy Apostles.
your driver about current restrictions. As of 2014, the
citadel and its surroundings are not permitted to visitors. • Church of the Holy Redeemer.
• Church of Saint Elia.

4.4 See • Church of Saint Gregory of the Abughamrents.
Pinkish stone ruins of Armenian cathedrals, churches, • Church of Saint Gregory of Tigran Honents.
homes, fortresses, and palaces float eerily across the deso- • Georgian Church.
late grassy landscape. Most of the well preserved Arme-
nian churches date from the late tenth century to early • Karst Cave Village.
4.7. SLEEP 37
• King Gagik’s Church of Saint Gregory.
• Mosque of Minuchir.
• Virgins’ Chapel.
4.5 Do
If the fortress is open to tourists (which is not the case in
2014), it is worth scrambling up the rocky path for the
excellent views over Ani, the river gorge, and the steppe
rolling towards the mountains of Armenia.
4.6 Eat & Drink

There are limited choices so one is best to bring their own
snacks and drinks. The Ani Cafe & Restaurant is a new
eatery with clean western style bathroom facilities. There
is also a little general store close to the main gates into
Ani. There is a teahouse in the small village outside Ani,
but absolutely do not forget to bring bottled water on a trip
to Ani. The climate is very arid and seeing all the sites
here will take a good deal of time; you will get badly de-
hydrated if you don't bring some water along. In winter,
everything is closed, so be sure to bring food and water.
There is a public toilet on the left of the main entrance.
4.7 Sleep
There are no accommodations in Ani, and there are only
a smattering of homes surrounding it. The nearest major
city is Kars, from which Ani is an easy day trip.
Chapter 5
Ardahan
Ardahan is a city in Eastern Anatolia, Turkey. It’s the 5.9 Sleep

capital of Ardahan Province in the extreme northeast
Turkey, bordering both Georgia (connected with which
by the Türkgözü border post), and Armenia (no border 5.10 Connect
crossing).
Many hotels and cafés offer free Wi-Fi.
5.1 Understand
5.11 Go next
With a population of lower than 20,000, Ardahan is one
of the smallest cities in the country that has the distinction Daily bus at 12h30 to Artvin, Hopa (35 ) and Trabzon
of being a provincial seat. (45 ).
Its climate is extremely cold, with temperatures below
−30° relatively frequent in winter.
5.2 Get in
Ardahan is on the road from Kars to Artvin (near the
Black Sea coast).
Minibus from Kars at 8am, 9am, 10am everyday. 15 ,
1h30.
5.3 Get around

The city is relatively small. There are several taxis in
town.
5.4 See
5.5 Do
5.6 Buy
5.7 Eat
5.8 Drink
38
Chapter 6
Battalgazi
Battalgazi is a town in Eastern Anatolia, north of It’s possible to catch public buses (run by Malatya City
Malatya. Council–Malatya Belediyesi, lines #B1, #25, #251) and
minibuses (recognizable by large banners saying Battal-
gazi Koop in front of them, which is the name of the
6.1 Understand company that runs them), which depart every 15 min-
utes, from various stops in downtown Malatya. However,
to avoid long de-tours through the city, it is best to wait
Battalgazi was the original location of Malatya, as implied for them in the stop just off the roundabout where the
by its local (and formerly official) name, Eski Malatya road to Battalgazi branches off the main highway. (Direc-
(i.e., “Old Malatya”). tions from the central square: walk east along Cumhuriyet
The settlement in the vicinity—the Arslantepe mound Caddesi and Kışla Caddesi for 500 mt. You will arrive at
(Arslantepe Höyüğü) in particular, which lies to the south- an intersection, turn left into Sivas Caddesi here; look for
east of Battalgazi, close to the town of Orduzu—dates the sign saying Aslantepe Höyüğü in the centre of that in-
back to the 4th millennium BCE. However, it was the Hit- tersection. After a walk of about a kilometre along Sivas
tites, originated from Central Anatolia and conquered the Caddesi, past a stadium, you will arrive at a large round-
area in 14th century BCE, who gave the area its name— about with traffic lights on the main intercity highway.
Malidiya, possibly related to the Hittite word of melid, Cross the highway at those traffic lights, and there you
which means “honey”. have the bus stop on the right, 50 metres down the street.)
The area was subsequently ruled by Assyrians, Romans, A one-way ride on both the buses and minibuses costs
Byzantines, Arabs, Armenians, Crusaders, Seljuk Turks, 1.25 TL. Minibuses can be a little crowded on the week-
Mamluk Turks, and Ottoman Turks. ends, but it’s a 15-minute ride maximum anyway.
In 1838, during a war between Ottoman Empire and the
forces of Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, the Ottoman army
seized the town, forcing the local population to nearby 6.3 Get around
Aspuzu, then a collection of cottages amidst the orchards
in the outskirts of the town. After the war, the people
decided not to return to their battered town, settling per- Once you step out of the bus/minibus at the town’s central
manently in Aspuzu, and renaming it to Malatya. square, you have no other option but to walk. But note
that while signage for street names is adequate (usually
The abandoned old town has later been re-populated, and on small blue signs on the walls of the buildings on the
after being called as Eski Malatya for more than a hun- corners of the streets), the signage for interesting sights is
dred years, officially renamed as Battalgazi in 1987, after woefully rare or even totally non-existent, so either have
a legendary warrior who is thought to have borned in the a print-out of a detailed map of the area before you go,
region. or trust your luck on finding the sights.
Today, with its 14,000 inhabitants, Battalgazi is a typi- You will see lots of local kids around the main sights of
cal Turkish provincial town with mostly concrete low rise interest, and be ready to be shouted at by them (“hello,
buildings and some faint remnants from its past. tourist!" seems to be their favourite phrase). Some will
(persistently) try their broken and limited English on you,
and might recite what the buildings were used for, etc.
6.2 Get in You may accept their guidance but keep in mind that they
are doing this in the expectation of a tip, so do return the
Battalgazi lies 10 km north of Malatya, and a wide avenue favour if you chose to take a tour with them.
free of potholes and with separated directions through They may keep following you for a while even if you are
lush apricot groves connects each other. clearly disinterested, but be patient and they will give up
39
40 CHAPTER 6. BATTALGAZI
sooner or later. A kind “good bye!" might help. 6.5 Do
6.4 See 6.6 Buy
The town is littered by many historic structures, most of 6.7 Eat

which date back to Seljuk era, and some of which were
renovated recently, while others waiting for the same
favour in a halfly ruined state. 6.8 Drink
Of these, “must-see"s include:
6.9 Sleep
• Caravanserai (Kervansaray) (very close to the town
square). As a town on one of the major trade routes
into Anatolia from the East, old Malatya surely had a 6.10 Connect
caravanserai. A rather big one, it’s easy to visualize
the chambers where exhausted travellers and trades- The area code of the town is (+90) 422.
men slept, where the fires glowed, and where the There is a small postoffice (PTT) in the town, open M-F
horses were fed thanks to recent renovation. Nowa- 8:30AM-5PM.
days it sometimes hosts local carpet and trinket ex-
hibitions. Free.
6.11 Go next
• Great Mosque (Ulu Cami) (southeast of Cara-
vanserai — walk up the street in front of the cara-
• Karakaya Dam (Turkish: Karakaya Barajı; locally
vanserai for 500 metres, and then turn left). Open
baraj for short) — a ride of 20 minutes further north
all day. While not of the comparable size with the
through verdant apricot orchards, you can reach the
other “great mosque"s of the country and its plain
banks of the Karakaya Dam lake, a favourite fishing
stone walls may not seem like offering much from
spot of the locals at the weekends. While there are
the outside, just the greenish blue and dark blue tiles
no businesses on the coast (no restaurants or cafes;
inside of this edifice which dates back to 1224 is
save for a ferry harbour), the view of grayish serene
well worth the effort to get to Battalgazi. Built by
waters backed by dramatically rising treeless moun-
the Seljuks, you enter the building through a portal
tains on the opposite shore is quite worth the effort
with some masonry work, typical of that era. The
to get there. And it could be a nice watersports spot
only Seljuk monument in Turkey with an inner open-
if it weren't visibly somewhat polluted.
air courtyard (though more such monuments exist in
Iran), its southern part—the one at the entrance—
is topped by a small dome with small green tiles. Public bus line #B1, as well as most, if not all,
The rest of the building is a peaceful maze of colon- of the minibuses from Malatya continue on to
nades and arches, but what really impressing are the the dam lake after Battalgazi. The bus/minibus
tiles on the walls facing the inner courtyard: typi- fare is fixed (1.25 TL) and doesn't depend on
cally Seljuk in colours and design, the tiles together where you caught it (i.e., downtown Battalgazi,
form a (large) number of geometrical forms (none or all the way from Malatya).
of which, no matter how small, was repeated else- A crossing of the lake takes around 20 minutes
where in the mosque) and highly delicate Arabic cal- by ferries, which depart at 7:30AM, 11AM,
ligraphy. As this is a seldom-visited edifice (both 3:30PM daily from the harbour on Battalgazi
by sightseers and worshippers), you will most likely side (with return voyages at 8AM, 1PM, 5PM).
have all the mosque to yourself. Free. They accept both vehicles and foot passengers,
however, they depart whenever their vehicular
A number of other tombs and smaller monuments, parts capacity is full without waiting for the depar-
of which are in ruins, are scattered throughout the town. ture time to come, so show up at least half an
hour before the scheduled departure if you are
A neighbourhood between the Great Mosque and the cen-
a traveller with no vehicle. The road from the
tral square consists of whitewashed houses and streets
harbour on the opposite banks leads to the town
surfaced by large stones, creating a nice but faux pre-
of Baskil and further on to Elazığ, but note that
served townscape, as none of those buildings are actually
this is quite a remote route and the main high-
historic.
way to Elazığ leads east from Malatya, crossing
Ruins of Roman-built city walls, including a re-built arch the dam lake by a bridge.
gate, can be seen just off the road from Malatya.
Chapter 7
Darende
Darende is a town in Eastern Anatolia, Turkey. It’s one 7.4 Buy

of the towns that was located on the Silk Road.
7.5 Eat
7.1 Get in
• Kenger is a local, traditional chewing gum.
Darende is located on highway D300 which connects
Malatya with major cities of the country such as Ankara
and Istanbul. The distance to Malatya is 110 km, while 7.6 Drink
Sivas is 180 km away and Kayseri 250 km. There are
buses from these centres to Darende.
7.7 Sleep
The nearest airport is Erhaç (near Malatya) which re-
ceives daily flights from Ankara and Istanbul. The airport • Tiryandafil Otel, Somuncu Baba Bulvarı (on the
is 80 km away from Darende. Kayseri-Malatya highway), ☎ +90 422 615 1818.
Hotel with swimming pool.
7.2 See
7.8 Connect
• Abdurrahman Erzincani Mosque (Abdurrahman
Erzicani Camii).
7.9 Go next
• Aslantaslar (Lion Rocks) (20 km away from town).
Two rocks resembling lion statues. Rumour has it
that, they were part of some ancient temple. The
lions face the direction from which sun rises.
• Gürpinar (8 km from town). Waterfall.
• Tomb of Somuncu Baba (Somuncu Baba Türbesi).

Tomb located in a beautiful garden.
• Zengibar. A citadel built during the Hittite civiliza-

tion.
7.3 Do
• Kudret. Hot spring pool.
• Rafting.
Make time to walk around the town. It’s quite small but
very typically Turkish and the people are very friendly.
41
Chapter 8
Dogubeyazit
Dogubeyazit is a town in Eastern Anatolia, Turkey. that route would be Agri. From where it’s possible to get
on a minibus to Dogubeyazit for 15TL/person.
• Bus station (Otogar). Main bus station used for

distant destinations, like a 24hr coach from Istanbul.
Minibuses to Ishak Pasa Palace also depart from
here.
• Minibuses to Iğdır. From Kars, there is no direct

bus. First you have to take a minibus to Iğdır (6 TL)
and transfer there to another minibus (15 TL) (from
the same place you have been dropped). Road be-
İsmail Beşikçi Avenue tween Igdir and Dogubeyazit passes by Mt. Ararat,
offering fine views.
• Minibuses to Van. there are several minibusses a

day going to Van.
• Minibuses to Iranian border. Iranian border

(Gurbulak) is in 35 km of town.
Note that it can be difficult to leave after about 14:00 as

most buses depart in the morning.
8.3 Get around

Landscape You can walk to most places in this fairly small city of
about 70,000 inhabitants.
8.1 Understand
8.4 See
When going towards east to Iran, this is the last Turkish
• Beyazit mosque.
town you'll come across.
As of Nov 2010, electricity supply is operating normally, • The ancient Armenian cemetery.
but there were reports that it was intermittent in the past,
which may or may not be the case in the future.
8.4.1 Further afield
• Ishak Pasa Sarayi (Ishak Pasa Palace) (on a hill,
8.2 Get in 5 km to the south outside the city). This ancient
fortress/castle/mosque is stunningly beautiful, and is
Coaches running Trabzon - Van line don't pass a must see when in Dougbeyazit. Try to go on a dry,
Dogubeyazit itself, the closest town to Dogubeyazit on sunny day.
42
8.5. DO 43
for the rock formation assumed to be the remains

of Noah’s ark.
• Balık Gölü (60 km from Doğubeyazıt, near

Taşlıçay). a lake in a lava bed
• The Ice Cave (on the side of Little Ararat near the
village of Hallaç).
• Meteor crater (in the vicinity of the Iranian border).
Ishak Pasha Palace

8.5 Do
• For a taxi from the town center, expect to pay
approximately 10-15 TL one way. Worth con-
sidering asking the taxi driver to wait at the
Palace.
• There is a dolmus service to the Palace; but
hitch-hiking was quicker both going up and
coming down so no idea about the price (1.5
- 2 TL).
• Alternatively, it´s a very stiff walk all the way
up (or down), in summer possibly dangerous
even. entrance fee: 3 TL.
• Eski Beyazit (Old Beyazit) (across the valley from

the Ishak Pasa palace, just trek a little bit further up
Mount Ararat from east of Dogubeyazit
from the palace). Old town probably built during
Urartu times at 800 BC. It has the tomb of Ahmedi
Xani, the famous Kurdish poet and philosopher, and
also the ruins of the Urartian castle and a mosque. • Climb Mount Ararat (5,137 metres/16,854 ft), on
the border of Turkey and Iran, supposedly where
• Mount Ararat (15 km from Doğubeyazıt). One of Noah’s Ark landed. Guides and vehicles are avail-
the best views of the mountain are from Dogubeyazit able in Dogubeyazit. The climb is long, but there
city itself. is a fairly easy route from the south in late summer
for climbers who are familiar with the use of axe
and crampons. Snow covers the last 400 m (¼ mile)
year-round. There are two possible campsites on
the mountain, and the glacier begins around 4,800
m (15,750 ft). International climbers need a climb-
ing permit that can be obtained through the Turkish
Embassies or, the easier option is to let your guide’s
company do it. Expect the authorities to process
your permit application in two months. You also
need a licensed guide to accompany you on the trek.
People most often attempt to climb upp to the sum-
mit and return to Dogubayazit in 4 days. However,
you may need more time to acclimatise, so it can be
wise to add an extra day.
You may also want to climb other mountains in the region,

Durupınar site such as Mt Suphan, as part of your acclimatisation.
Some local experienced guides that you can contact ahead
• Durupınar site (up in the hills east of town and of time are erkan sedef erkanararat@hotmail.com mo-
south of the main highway). This area is famous bile:+90 542 732 2454
44 CHAPTER 8. DOGUBEYAZIT
8.6 Buy • Hotel Ortadoğu, Ağrı Caddesi 105, ☎ +90

472 312-42-25, e-mail: hotelortadogu@yahoo.com.
Carpet floor rooms with en-suite bathrooms, TV.
8.7 Eat Next door to convenience store, very close to bus
stops. Staff were helpful, spoke some English. From
Try to get a rare Abdigor Kofte. It is a fist size meat- 30TL..
ball on the pilaf but it difficult to find because not many
people know how to cook it. This dish cannot be found • Hotel Tahran, Büyük Ağrı Caddesi 124, ☎ +90
anywhere else. It is a local delicacy that can be found only 472 312-01-95, e-mail: info@oteltahran.com. Ho-
in Dogubayazit. tel Tahran is inexpensive and very basic hotel with
CAUTION: The Yöresel Yemek Evi mentioned in the surprisingly clean but small bathrooms. They also
Lonely Planet 2011 does evidently no longer exist. How- provide depository service for unnecessary stuff
ever, the Doguş Restaurant has snatched up the name and when doing a trip across the border to Iran or up
tries to lure eaters with it. It’s not a bad place in itself, but to Ararat. Manager speaks very good English and is
overpriced and often crammed with tour groups. Adding very helpful about all things local. Laundry service
the deliberately misleading name this is best avoided. is 3 TL per kilo and very quick (can give laundry
in the late evening and get it back semi-dry in the
morning). Good breakfast with some view. Occa-
sional problems with Internet. 60 TL for a double
8.8 Drink ensuite with breakfast (September 2013).
• Cafe shop on Kermelsi Rd. in the center of

• Hotel Urartu, Abdullah Baydar Caddesi (across
Dogubeyazit
the street from post office), ☎ +90 472 312-72-95.
• Pure fruit juice shop, makes nice pure juice! Istan- Urartu is reasonable with friendly staff.
plak Avenue in eastern Dogubeyazit
• Hotel Yayla Palas, ☎ +90 472 312-78-61. Hotel
Yayla Palas — anything but a palace. 20TL sin-
8.9 Sleep gle - 70s decor, cleanish rooms with sink, relatively
clean (though smelly) shared bathrooms, perfect for
budget travellers. On the main pedestrian shopping
Hotels are numerous. Not all places provide air condi-
street.
tioning.
• Butic Ertur Hotel, Gurbulak Cevreyolu uzeri,

• Hotel Ararat, Belediye Cad. No:24, ☎ +90
Dogubayazit Otogar Karsisi. Smallish but clean
472 312-49-88, fax: +90 472 312-25-23, e-mail:
rooms. Good reviews
info@hotelararatturkey.com. This Hotel not so ex-
pensive and it was remodeled with new owners it was
cute and lovely also very clean. Single 50 TL, Dou-
ble80 TL, Triple 110 TL (2014). 8.10 Go next
• Hotel Erzurum, İ. Beşikçi Caddesi. This hotel has

clean rooms with shared bathrooms.
• Hotel Grand Derya, Abdullah Baydar Caddesi

203, ☎ +90 472 312-75-31, fax: +90 472 312-78-
33. This three star hotel is run down, but has air-
conditionıng.
• Hotel Isfahan, Emniyet Cad. No:26, ☎ +90 472

312 4363. This hotel has spacious although quite ba-
sic rooms and a somewhat worn lobby area. Friendly
stuff, good breakfast, adequate price-value ratio.
Some rooms come with balcony. WiFi
• Hotel Nuh, ☎ +90 472 312-72-32. It has an im-

pressive lobby area but a bit shabby rooms. The
rooftop restaurant has views of Ararat. WiFi
Chapter 9
Elazig
Elazığ (pronounced ay-LAH-zuh) is a city in eastern 9.2.2 By train

Turkey.
The city station lies on the route of twice weekly Vangölü
Ekspresi, which connects Tatvan on the Lake Van with
several cities in central and western Turkey, such as
Kayseri, Ankara, and Istanbul among others, as well as
calling at nearby Malatya.
Elazığ station is also the eastern terminus of daily Fırat
Express, which departs from the Mediterranean city of
Adana at 8:38AM, calling at Malatya around 5:50PM,
and finally arriving at Elazığ at 7:20PM.
See Turkish State Railways’ website for more information
.
9.2.3 By bus/minibus
The Keban Dam, 45 km from Elazığ, created an artificial lake From nearby Malatya, you can catch minibuses which de-
whose banks encompass part of the city part from Doğu Garajı (“eastern bus stop”) just off the
intercity highway, northeast of city centre near a large
roundabout at the end of Sivas Caddesi Street.
9.2.4 By boat
9.1 Understand
Those more adventurous and having more time to spare
A small city in eastern Turkey, Elazığ has a population may prefer the remoter and slightly longer route from
of approximately 200,000 people. A city about 3,000 Malatya, via the towns of Battalgazi and Baskil and which
feet/1,000 metres above sea level, Elazığ is surrounded by involves taking a ferry when crossing the Karakaya Dam
mountains, lakes, and rivers. While rapidly developing, it lake, at about the mid-way between Battalgazi and Baskil.
is a traditional town and is relatively conservative. There There are ferries three times a day—at 7:30AM, 11AM,
is Firat University there and that is helping to change the 3:30PM—from the harbour on the Battalgazi/Malatya
culture of the city. It is very close to the historical city of side (and the return voyages from Baskil/Elazığ side at
Harput. 8AM, 1PM, 5PM), but as the ferries depart as soon as
their vehicular capacity is full (and do not wait for their
schedule), show up at least half an hour before the sched-
uled departure. They also accept foot passengers. Cross-
ing the dam lake takes around 20 minutes.
9.2 Get in
9.2.1 By plane 9.3 Get around

There are few daily flights to and from Istanbul and It is a small city and can be explored quite easily by foot.
Ankara. There are also numerous minibuses and city buses.
45
46 CHAPTER 9. ELAZIG
9.4 See
• Harput. It is an amzing old city on top of a moun-
tain with a stunning view of Elazığ and the surround-
ing areas.
9.5 Do
Nargile cafes and the old covered market.
9.6 Buy
9.7 Eat
9.8 Drink
• Deha Cafe. The coolest cafe/bar in the city.
9.9 Sleep
• Marathon Hotel. It is right in the city center and is
a good deal for the money.
9.10 Connect
The area code for Elazığ is (+90) 424.
9.11 Go next
Chapter 10
Erzincan
Erzincan is a city in Eastern Anatolia. After suffering 10.5 Buy

from powerful earthquakes (in 1939 which leveled the
whole city and most recently in 1992), it has undergone • Copper objects.
a process of renewal and has become a modern city—
Erzincan is one of the most orderly cities in Turkey. The
population is approximately 300,000. Many stores and
shopping malls can be found in Erzincan.
10.6 Eat
Perhaps the most special and unique culinary offer of
Erzincan is Erzincan döneri, served as a sandwich or to-
10.1 Get in gether with rice and fried potatoes. Check out Kebabis-
tan, Döneristan or any other kebab shop around Dörtyol
10.1.1 By train area; a portion (100 gr) should cost no more than 9 TL.
There is a daily train (Doğu Express) from Istanbul. Doğu

Express calls at Ankara, too. There is also another daily 10.7 Drink
train from Ankara (Erzurum Express), which is reported
to be more comfortable (and also more expensive) than
Doğu Express. 10.8 Sleep
10.9 Connect
10.2 Get around
Erzincan’s telephone code is (+90) 446.
10.3 See
10.10 Go next
• Girlevik Waterfalls. One of Turkey’s most beauti-
ful.
• Ekşisu Piknik Tesisleri. Natural mineral water

source, and a picnic area.
• Dörtyol. Downtown Erzincan.
• Esentepe. A higher hill from which you can view

all of the city.
• And many other picnic areas.
10.4 Do
Peevish rivers around Erzincan offers rafting opportuni-
ties full of adrenaline.
47
Chapter 11
Erzurum
11.2.1 By train
There is a daily train from Istanbul (Doğu Express, de-

parts from Haydarpaşa station at 08:35 every morning).
Doğu Express has a stop in Ankara, too (and in a num-
ber of other cities and towns across Anatolia, includ-
ing Eskişehir, Kayseri, Sivas, and Erzincan among others
as well). There is also another daily train from Ankara
(Erzurum Express, which is said to be more comfortable
than Doğu Express). Both trains head for Kars — further
east (near Armenian and Georgian borders). See Turkish
Republic State Railways website for schedules and fares:
Seljuk-built Twin Minarets Madrasah—the iconic building of the

11.2.2 By plane
city—in the morning
• Erzurum Airport 10 km from city center.
Erzurum is a city in Eastern Anatolia, and is the hub for

Daily flight from Istanbul (by Onur Air, Turkish Airlines,
visiting eastern Turkey.
and Pegasus) and direct flights from Izmir, Ankara, and
Antalya.
In winter, there are also flights from Russia, and Ukraine.
11.1 Understand
11.2.3 By bus
Erzurum is the highest major city (population: 360,000
according to 2000 census) in Turkey, situated at an al- Most bus companies stop at the Erzurum Otogar, which
titude of about 2000 metres above sea level. Combined is about 1 km away from the main city centre. It is a
with the distance to the sea, this makes the climate of this walkable distance to town, or you can take the public bus
area the harshest in Turkey with the temperatures in long, to/from the Otogar.
heavily snowy, and bitterly cold winter regularly below
−30°C at nights (and no warmer than −15°C during the Buses from Trabzon in the north, on the Black Sea coast,
day). Wet summers in Erzurum are around 30°C in the take around 4 and a half hours and cost 30 TL (but, if you
day time and chilly at night, although temperatures drop- don't look too much like a tourist, it might be possible to
ping down to freezing point during summer are becoming bargain it down to 25 TL), while buses from Diyarbakır
rarer and rarer each year, probably with the advance of in the south take a little more than 6 hours and have the
global warming. standard fare of 50 TL, which might be bargainable down
to 35 TL.
The city hosted the international 2011 Winter Universi-
ade (“university olympic games”) .
11.3 Get around

11.2 Get in Erzurum is a pretty small city, and you can cover most
of it by foot, unless you are thinking of heading out and
48
11.8. DRINK 49
around the city, in which case, most public buses and taxis stuffed in the kadayıf and the stuffed kadayıf is first fried,
will be able to get you there. then cooled and finally ready to serve with addition of a
sweet sauce. It may be sampled in virtually every restau-
rant in Erzurum, but some of the best can be tried in a
11.4 See specialist restaurant, Muammer Usta
Döner — Typical Turkish döner is really made well and
Citadel of Erzurum - The Citadel of Erzurum is situated should be tasted in Hacı Baba Restaurant on Emniyet
on the top of the hill in the middle of the city centre. The Caddesi.
YTL 3 admission fee allows you to explore the grounds Cağ kebap — local kebab of Erzurum, that you can have
as well as to climb up the minaret/clock tower, as well as in Gelgor Restaurant. It is made with lamb meat and
visit the citadel masjid. It’s worth the effort to climb up the preparation is like döner, but unlike döner, instead of
the clock tower as it gives you a commanding view of the a vertical axis, the meat is cooked on a horizontal axis.
city as well as the surrounding mountains.
Güzelyurt Restaurant — A very nice old restaurant
right in the city center on Cumhuriyet Caddesi. You can
have a good Turkish meal with some Turkish raki and
11.5 Do enjoy the atmosphere.
• Ski in Palandöken ski resort, which is only 10 min- Hmmburger — A very tiny small hamburger place.
utes away from city centre by public bus. Hamburgers are really delicious.
Coffeebox — A local coffeeshop, with various pasta op-
• In summer you can hike up to the top of Palandöken tions and nice coffees.
(3,150 m.a.s.l.) for fantastic views. There is a road
(first paved up to some of the hotels, then a dirt road)
up to the very top, but it is possible to take shortcuts 11.8 Drink
when hiking. There are no marked trails, but the
directions are clearly visible. It is good to start early
to allow time to enjoy the views. 11.9 Sleep
• Renaissance Polat Hotel. Four stars hotel. 220
11.6 Buy rooms. TV satellite. +90 442 232 00 10
• Oltutaşı (Oltu stone in Turkish) — This is a kind of • Yeni Cinar Hotel (close to Istasyon Caddesi).
amber which is extracted only in Oltu, a town near Clean, small rooms with enough light. Staff doesn't
Erzurum. It is mostly chipped into jewelry, with dif- speak English but is helpful. Close to the city center.
ferent levels of quality and correspondingly different 30 TL per night for a single room (huge, double bed)
levels of prices. Look around in Erzurum. Taşhan in May 2010. 50 TL for a double ensuite (Septem-
is the best place to shop for Oltutaşı and it is also an ber 2013).
interesting traditional building.
• Arı Otel (close to Yeni Çınar Hotel). Rooms have
shower inside but the toilets are shared out on the
• Silver — In jewelry shops in the center or on Taş-
corridor. Friendly and helpful staff but they can't
mağazalar street, fancy authentic silver jewelry can
speak English. Double rooms for 60 TL; haggling
be found.
down to 45 TL possible.
11.7 Eat 11.10 Connect

Stockbreeding is widespread in the region, and there is
The area code of Erzurum is 442. Dial +90 442 when
little chance to cultivate vegetables and fruits in this high
calling from out of Turkey.
and cold land. Therefore traditional food is mainly de-
pendent on meat.
The city is also known for different types of local cheese 11.11 Go next
that is hard to find elsewhere in Turkey.
Kadayıf dolması — A must-taste local dessert of Erzu- • Dogubeyazit, Kars, Sarıkamış, Van, and Iran are
rum cuisine. It is made from kadayıf, a sweet pastry that nearby and further eastward destinations. Buses run
is lots of thin fibres of flour put together. Walnuts are by Star Ağrı Doğubeyazıt heading for Dogubeyazit
50 CHAPTER 11. ERZURUM
(25 TL, 4 hrs) depart daily at noon, 3PM, and 5PM

on weekdays and at noon, and 3PM in weekends.
• If the Seljuk sights in Erzurum did not satisfy you

sufficiently, you may try Divrigi with its UNESCO
World Heritage site on your way to west. Two daily
trains from Erzurum call at town’s station.
Chapter 12
Hakkari
Hakkari is a city in Eastern Anatolia, in the far south- 12.9 Sleep

eastern corner of the country.
Hakkari has three hotels. None of them has its own web-
site.
12.1 Understand
• Star Otel, Atlılar Caddesi 12, ☎ +90 438 211-
The city of Hakkari itself is nothing to write home about. 02-14, 211-00-19, 211-95-82. Central, somewhat
Lots of army quarters but everyday life seems pretty nor- dark and very sparse but OK for backpackers. Bet-
mal. Getting there makes it worth the trip, as you are ter speak Turkish or use sign language. You might
literally in the most remote city of the country, near the be offered an inside room without a window. Ask
corner where Turkish, Iranian, and Iraqi borders meet. for a pencere (payn-JAY-ray), which means window.
Cheap at 20-25 TL.
People seem to be indifferent to tourists (or perhaps just
a little cautious) but usually react in a friendly way if
• Hotel Sibar (the former Ümit Hotel), Altay Caddesi
you want to take their pictures. You will hear very little
15, ☎ +90 438 211-25-05, fax: +90 438 211-24-
Turkish. Almost everybody in the streets speaks Kurdish.
69. This 3-star hotel is pretty modern and pretty
good value for money. Make sure you get to see the
room before you book. It offers street view, moun-
12.2 Get in tain view, and the wall of the building next door.
Negotiate. They expect you to haggle. They might
Frequent buses from Van make Hakkari easily accessible. start with 80 TL/person. Try to settle for 60. But
if you have the right room, you will enjoy the clean
room with TV and fridge and spacious bathrooms
with shower cabin and a western-style WC. Mind
12.3 Get around your step when you leave the elevator on the ground
floor. Steps could be slippery.
As Hakkari is not a big place most of the town is within
walking distance. (But do read the “Stay safe” passage.) • Hotel Şenler, Bulvar Cad. 38, ☎ +90 438 211-55-
It does spread out, however, over various hills. 12, −13, −14, −15, fax: +90 438 211-38-08, −09.
This 3-star hotel is more old fashioned but also has
spacious rooms. Try to get one at the front for a good
view of the main drag.
12.4 See
All prices from the summer of 2011.
12.5 Do
12.10 Stay safe
12.6 Buy
Travelling there is pretty safe as long as you stick to the
12.7 Eat main roads and/or use public transport. Going for a wild
walk (to take pictures) on your own even to the top of one
of the hills close to the city could let you end up next to a
12.8 Drink military zone. That could be very unpleasant as you may
be thought to be a PKK agent and treated as such. You
51
52 CHAPTER 12. HAKKARI
should always have your passport or ID with you. To a

frustrated and rightly fearful soldier in these regions (not
the most comfortable place to be deployed), it seems to be
difficult to differentiate between a tourist and a terrorist.
12.11 Connect
(+90) 438 is the area code for Hakkari.
12.12 Go next
There are several buses to Van daily leaving from the city
centre to all sorts of places. The only bus southwest to
Şırnak leaves pretty early in the morning (7AM), though.
Check with big bus companies like Vangölü (☎ 0438 211
43 24) or Best Van (☎ 0438 211 67 34). Due to the re-
gional conflicts there might be ID controls on the buses.
In case of bombings roads might also be closed, so do not
rely on too tight a schedule.
Chapter 13
Kars
Kars is a city in Eastern Anatolia. It is most frequently tion works all over Turkish railway network, it’s currently
visited as a jumping off point for travelers going to Ani, impossible to take a train out of Istanbul. Doğu Express
but it is a viable destination in its own right for its 19th keeps operating but its western terminus is now shifted to
century Russian imperial buildings, and, of course, its Ankara.)
role as the setting for Orhan Pamuk’s famous novel Snow. By plane - Anadolujet offers regular flights from Ankara
A small village on the Rideau River in Ottawa, Canada is to Kars airport. Prices start from 59TL including all fees.
named “Kars” in honour of General Sir William Fenwick
Williams’s defence of the town of Kars, Anatolia during
the Crimean War. 13.3 Get around
There are a few taxis serving the city centre. It’s a pretty
13.1 Understand small place so it’s quite possible to cover it by foot.
13.1.1 Climate
Kars is one of the highest cities in Turkey, situated at an
altitude of about 2000 metres over the sea level. Com-
plemented with the distance to the sea, this makes the
climate of this area the harshest in Turkey with winter
temperatures regularly below −30 C at nights (and no
warmer than −15 C during the day). There is not a real
summer season in Kars, only a short spring in July and
August (this is also the wettest season) and a long, bit-
terly cold, and heavily snowy winter during the rest of the
year. Keep in mind that nighttime temperatures can fall view from castle
below zero degree (Celsius) in any time of the year (even
in August).
13.4 See
13.1.2 Read
Kars Castle - situated on the side of the hill facing the
The setting of Orhan Pamuk’s novel Snow is Kars.
city, Kars Castle is one of the few sights to see within
Kars. It’s a short climb from the city centre, and is worth
climbing for the view of the city. Open from 9:00 to
13.2 Get in 16:00, admission is free. The castle was built in 1153
A.D. later destroyed by Mongol invaders and rebuilt in
By bus - most companies serve Kars - though you might 1579.
need to change bus at either Erzurum or Igdir, depending Russian/Baltic architecture along the grid of old town’s
on where you come from. Be sure to check whether there streets, realized during the Russian occupation of the city
are services available. in 1878–1918, singles out the city in Turkey. Fethiye
By train - there is also a train station in Kars, with a Mosque (Fethiye Camii) in the city centre, originally built
daily service from Istanbul's Haydarpaşa station (Doğu by Russians in the occupation period as a church, is the
Express), and another daily service from Ankara (Erzu- only mosque in Turkey having that distinctive architec-
rum Express) . (Update, 2012. Due to major reconstruc- tural style.
53
54 CHAPTER 13. KARS
The Church of Apostles just below the castle, • Hotel Kent, Hapan Mevkii 12, ☎ +90 474 223-
now known as Kümbet or Kethuda Mosque (Küm- 19-29. Boutique hotel recently undergone renova-
bet/Kethuda Camii), is also well worth a look. The build- tion, offering clean rooms with en-suite bathrooms
ing was originally an Armenian church built in 10th cen- and comfortable beds. Lounge room with satellite
tury, and upon capturing the city, Ottomans converted it TV and a refrigerator for guests. It’s frequented by
to a mosque in 1579. Later, when Russians came over, backpackers on their way to Ani, which makes it a
it became a church again, this time serving Russian Or- good place for solo travelers to organize an excur-
thodox believers. After the Turks took back the city, it sion from. Taxi drivers know it. 40 TL.
served for non-religious purposes for a time (such as a
warehouse), and in 1998 consecrated as a mosque again. • Hotel (Otel) Temel, Yenipazar Caddesi, ☎ +90 474
223 1376. (In Lonely Planet) Clean rooms with sin-
gles, doubles and triples, some with a good view.
13.5 Buy Central location within a few minutes’ walk to Kars
Castle. Breakfast included and free WiFi in rooms.
Gravier cheese is delicious! You can enjoy having some Some staff speak English. They can help arrange a
from the shops near to castle. You can try the Soldier minibus to Ani, the going rate is 35L round trip, can
Souvenirs Passage on the main street with a lion statue be negotiable. Laundry service relatively expensive.
sells stuff for rare collector’s items. If you are a female be cautious of the creepy guy
who only speaks Turkish at the front desk, as he has
been known to grope. 60 L for a double, private
13.6 Eat bathroom.
A local speciality is goose (kaz), usually made into a stew. • Hotel (Otel) Temel 2, Across the street from the
other Otel Temel, on the side with shoe stores (not
• Ani Restaurant is a good local restaurant, located the main street side). Hotel Temel 2 is a nice ho-
under Kar’s Otel. tel to stay in, with ensuite facilities, TV, and nice
clean beds. It also comes with a breakfast, consist-
ing of bread, cheese and honey. It’s also suitable
13.7 Drink for the budget traveler. Somewhat unfriendly man-
ager though, without any knowledge of English or
any other language, but Turkish.
• Yağmurcu Cafe Bar, Yusuf Paşa Mh. Küçük
Kazımbey Cad. Kent Kulüp Altı. No:3. Kars (On • Kar’s Otel, Halit Paşa Caddesi 79, ☎ +90 474 212-
the corner of Küçük Kazımbey Cad. and Gazi Ahmet 16-16. Boutique hotel housed in an old Russian
Muhtar Paşa Cad.), ☎ 05389571810. from 12:00 - building. € 99.
17:00 all hot and cold drinks half price. There is a
rustic area at the entrance where you can drink and
smoke. Inside is darker with tables, music and pri- • Miraç Otel, Cengiz Topel Caddesi 19, ☎ +90 474
vate rooms. 0.5L Effes 7TL, Nuts 5TL. 212-37-68. Clean centrally located Hotel, decent
free Wifi. Staff doesn't speak English. Breakfast is
a sad excuse with yesterday’s bread, a few olives and
some white cheese. And the Çay is weak! Double
13.8 Sleep Room 50 TL incl. breakfast (September 2013).
• Hotel Bizim (1), Faikbey St 198 (main street in
Kars), ☎ +90 474 212-28-00. All rooms with TV,
wifi and breakfast included (delicious soups). Single 13.9 Connect
room TL 20-30, double room TL 40-60.
Most hotels and many cafés and restaurants offer free Wi-
• Hotel Bizim 2, Faikbey St 198 (main street in Kars), Fi.
☎ +90 474 212-28-00. All rooms with TV, free but
very slow Wi-fi, free hot water (reception). Rooms
warm (in winter), but quite dirty and noisy. No
breakfast at all. The hotel staff can arrange taxis to
13.10 Go next
Ani. Limited English spoken. Be sure to write the
price before hand, since the staff may try to increase 13.10.1 Ani
it when you check out. Single room TL 20-30, dou-
ble room 40 (shared bathroom), 50 (private bath- A visit to Eastern Anatolia is not complete without a visit
room). to the ruins of the City of Ani, which is situated some 45
13.10. GO NEXT 55
km away from Kars. It is best to charter a taxi (100 to

200 , 2014) or get a guide.
In summer, it is very easy to find travel mates to fill a taxi.
In winter, you will most probably travel alone.
There is also an English-speaking entrepreneur in Kars
who will organize shared buses (40 per person, Septem-
ber 2013) to Kars. I sadly can't remember the name, but
most hotels hotels should be able to give you his number
if you just say something like “Ani, Dolmuş, Ingilizce”.
13.10.2 Ardahan
Several minibuses to Ardahan every day, every hour from
8am (at least 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am). Departs from the
minibus station (city center). 15 , about 1h30.
13.10.3 Artvin and Hopa

Bus every morning 9.30am to Artvin and Hopa from the
minibus station (city center). About 45 . The bus is run
by Artvin Ekspres and departs almost everyday; check
one day before just in case. This option is the best to
reach Georgia through Batumi. If the bus from Kars to
Hopa does not run, first go to Ardahan by minibus and,
from there, take the 12h30 to Hopa (35 ).
The same bus continues onwards to Trabzon (45 from
Ardahan).
Chapter 14
Malatya
ulation speak a non-dialectical standard Turkish, some-

times with a slight accent.
Local people are generally friendly and helpful.
14.1.1 Climate
A semi-arid continental climate reigns in the area. In
summers (May onwards), daytime is sunny and hot,
enough to walk around comfortably in just a t-shirt, how-
ever, nights and early mornings are cool enough that you
will want to pack along a jacket or a sweater.
New Mosque at the central square 14.2 Get in

Malatya is one of the biggest cities in the Eastern Ana- 14.2.1 By plane
tolia region of Turkey.
Malatya Erhaç Airport (IATA: MLX) is 30 km away
from the city center and can be reached by shuttle buses
14.1 Understand of the airlines and taxis. Flights leave from Istanbul and
Ankara. Turkish Airlines THY , AnadoluJet , Pegasus
Malatya is a relatively new city by Turkish standards, al- Airlines and Onur Air have daily flights to Malatya.
though its ancient name, Malidiya, dates back to Hittites, If bought one month prior to the flight date, a one-way
a Bronze Age people of Anatolia. flight between Istanbul and Malatya costs between 114
In 1838, during a war between Ottoman Empire and the and 154 TL, depending on the company.
forces of Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, the Ottoman army
seized what was then the town of Malatya, forcing the
14.2.2 By train
local population to Aspuzu, then a collection of cottages
amidst the orchards in the outskirts of the town. After There are daily services of 4 Eylül Mavi Treni from
the war, the people decided not to return to their battered Ankara. The Mavi Tren departs at 3:10PM, arriving in
town, settling permanently in Aspuzu, and renaming it to Malatya at 7AM next morning, and has couchette and soft
Malatya (the abandoned old town, 10 km north of the cur- sleepers, a restaurant car, as well as standard seating cars
rent city, has later been re-populated, and is now called attached.
Battalgazi, covered in its separate article).
From Istanbul, Güney Express and Vangölü Express,
Today, with its population of more than 400,000 inhabi- which are bound for further southeast and east from
tants, Malatya is the largest city of central-eastern Anato-
Malatya respectively, call at Malatya station on alternat-
lia, where gently rolling steppes of Central Anatolia give
ing days, 6 times a week. They share the same route
way to heavily-rugged terrain of Eastern Anatolia. The for most part of their long journey across the country,
plateau on which Malatya lies is surrounded by higher calling at İzmit, Eskişehir, Ankara, Kayseri, and Sivas,
mountains, some of which are covered with orchards that among many other smaller towns and cities, before arriv-
produce the apricots, for which the city is famous. ing to Malatya. Their paths diverge east of Malatya—
Unlike rest of Eastern Anatolia, much of the urban pop- while Güney Express heads for Diyarbakır and Batman,
56
14.3. GET AROUND 57
Vangölü leads to Tatvan on the Lake Van via Elazığ and 14.2.4 By bus
Muş. Both has standard seating cars, compartment cars,
couchettes, and sleeper cars available. There are many domestic coach firms from Istanbul bus
There is also the daily Fırat Express, which operates be- station. The coaches, reach Malatya via Ankara and the
tween the Mediterranean city of Adana and Elazığ to journey takes nearly 15 hours. Beydağı Turizm , Ak-
northeast of Malatya, which can be caught from either soğanoğlu Zafer Turizm , Kernek Turizm have at least
direction. 5 daily coaches to Malatya within the specific times of
the day.
More details on trains can be gathered from the website
of the Turkish State Railways . Buses from Ankara, which also shortly call at Kayseri bus
station on the way, take between 9 and 11 hours depend-
Trains to Istanbul. Depending on the day of your ing on the service, costing 35 TL on the average. In ad-
trip, you'll either take Güney or Vangölü Express out of dition to some of the local companies based in Malatya
Malatya. They depart around 5:50PM six days a week, listed above, nation-wide Metro Turizm operates on this
offering beautiful views of the apricot orchards surround- line, too.
ing the city and wilder vistas of Upper Euphrates Val-
ley further out on the way before the night falls in spring Long-haul buses from other major centres in the country,
and summer. While the scheduled arrival time to Istan- both regional and elsewhere alike, such as Bursa, and Van
bul is 8:29PM the next day (i.e., a duration of more than also call at and accept passengers for Malatya bus station.
24 hours), they are generally several hours late, and that Malatya’s bus station (otogar) lies at the western out-
usually means they arrive after the midnight—when Is- skirts of the city, on the highway from Kayseri and way
tanbul’s public transportation is in a very reduced opera- out of city centre. Luckily, quite frequent public buses,
tion. So, assuming that the keeping your budget down is which call at the stops on the highway in front of the sta-
why you preferred train over other means of transportation (cross the street for eastbound buses, i.e., those head-
tion in the first place and therefore you may want to avoid ing for the city), connect it with the city centre (although
hefty taxi rides across the city, in order not to stuck at the not all of the buses calling at that stop make it to the city
station in the middle of the night, make sure you have ar- centre—some proceed to the suburbs on the other side of
ranged your accommodation at least for the first night in the city via the intercity highway). The earliest public bus
Asian Side, where the terminal train station of Istanbul, services start around 6AM.
Haydarpaşa, is located.
The name of the bus stop in front of the otogar (as well as
A standard seat in a pullman car (like those in buses) costs the administration of the station itself) is Maşti, so look
30.75 TL for a ride between Malatya and Istanbul. Note for that in bus signs when getting from elsewhere in the
that neither Güney nor Vangölü Express has a restaurant city.
car attached, so make sure to pack along some supplies
The bus station has an official tourism information of-
(there is a large Carrefour supermarket near the station) as
fice, an internet cafe open 24-hr, toilettes (which cost 0.75
the nearest convenient stop is in Ankara, about 20 hours
TL), as well as benches which might offer a quite uncom-
away (as the other long-enough stops, Sivas and Kayseri
fortable sleep if you arrive in the middle of the night. The
are both scheduled in the dead of the night).
place is calm and safe through the night with a visible
Malatya’s train station is located northwest of the city presence of security officers.
centre, in residential suburbs of the city, about 200 metres
off the çevreyolu–intercity highway (look for the small
white sign saying TCDD Gar at the roundabout with a
big-box store named Carrefour at one side). From the
14.3 Get around
city centre, it takes around one and a half hour to get to
the station even with a relatively quick pace, but fortu-
nately public bus lines #1A and #1B as well as a number
of minibuses connect the station with the central square
quite frequently.
14.2.3 By car
Malatya can easily be reached by car, via Kayseri-Malatya

motorway, which is numbered D300. The clock tower in the city centre
58 CHAPTER 14. MALATYA
The city has a wide number of public buses, some fairly The waters of the waterfalls park keep running along a
modern and some quite old, easily recognizable by their canal spanned by pleasant foot bridges in the leafy median
flashy yellow colour and big Malatya Belediyesi (“Malatya strip of Hamit Feritoğlu Caddesi, unofficially known as
City Council”) banners on the sides. However, not ev- Kanalboyu (literally “along the canal”). A stroll of about
ery of them heads into downtown, some ply up and down 500 metres along the Kanalboyu will bring you to another
the intercity highway (which is named Çevreyolu on the square.
maps and such, literally “ring road”, however it’s a wide
avenue through the residential neighbourhoods of the city • On the side of the square is Hürriyet Park, the
rather than a motorway surrounding the city nowadays), largest in the city.
which lie a few blocks north of the main street of city cen- • At the side of the entrance of the park is a statue of
tre. The bus stops at the central square are called Valilik Kemal Atatürk, complete with his cloak, next to a
or Vilayet (both means “Governer’s Office”, and it seems guy, presumably symbolizing Turkish youth, who is
there is no fixed standard for it—it’s possible to see both wearing nothing but a fig leaf.
words on bus signs), so make sure you catch one heading
for there when you want to make it right to the downtown. Heading back to northwest from here along Kışla
A ride, regardless of the distance or the direction, costs Caddesi—which has a beautifully landscaped wide me-
1.25 TL. dian strip, which includes benches and palm trees (yes,
Once in the center, everywhere is easily accessible by foot palm trees. Like those that are found in tropical par-
as the city lies on a fairly flat ground, except for southern adises. All thanks to legendary cold hardiness of Tra-
neighbourhoods leaning against a steep hillside, which an chycarpus fortunei species)—you will arrive back at the
average traveller takes little, if any, interest anyway. central square; drawing a triangle in the city. However,
there are a few more sights on the way, which might slow
down your pace a bit.
14.4 See • Atatürk Museum (Atatürk Evi Müzesi), Kışla Cad-
desi (very close to Hürriyet Park). Tu-Su 9AM-noon
• New Mosque (Yeni Cami) (at the central square). 1PM-5PM. The historic mansion in which Kemal
A beautiful mosque built in 1912, and one of the Atatürk stayed during his visits to the city.
few in Turkey featuring three minarets. The one on
the side—top of which was demolished long ago— • There are also a number of other historic stone
was perhaps the minaret of an older mosque on site. buildings along the Kışla Caddesi from the late
Free. Ottoman or early Republic eras, which look quite
stately and impressive.
• Just across the street from the New Mosque at the
front yard of Governer’s Office is the last standing • At yet another square on your way, there is an old-
statue of İsmet İnönü, a native of the city and the looking clock tower, which actually was built re-
second president of Turkey (in office 1938-1950), cently but is nice anyway.
who was later blamed for instituting a cult of per-
sonality for himself after the death of Turkish Re-
public’s founder, Kemal Atatürk.
14.4.1 Outer neighbourhoods
• There is a large park east of the city, on the high-
From the central square, a stroll of 800 metres along the way to Elazığ with a large pond and distant views of
Fuzuli Caddesi (Street) will bring you to Kernek Square the Karakaya Dam lake. Minibuses and public buses
(Kernek Meydanı). heading for Üniversite pass by the entrance of it.
• Waterfalls Park (Şelale Parkı), Kernek Meydanı. • Northwest of the city centre (on Boztepe Caddesi
A park on the side of a hill with lots of water fea- a block north of intercity highway-çevreyolu), there
tures. A man-made waterfall running through a con- is a ruined Armenian church that is...well, ruined.
crete canal and getting stronger at each upper cas- Only its outer walls are standing and the neighbour-
cade is the main attraction. The park surrounds a hood in which it stands seems to be a somewhat
small hydropower plant harnessing the power of the rough one, so a distant look from the highway might
waterfall—which, actually why the waterfall exists suffice unless you have a special interest in the Ar-
in the first place—although the plant is not open for menian heritage of the region.
visits. Some open-air cafes line the cascading water
canal. Free.
14.5 Do
• Museum (Müze), Kernek Meydanı (next to the
park), ☎ +90 422 321-30-06, fax: +90 422 324- • Visit during the Malatya International Arts and
98-98. Tu-Su 8AM-noon 1PM-4:45PM. 3 TL. Apricot Festival in July.
14.10. CONNECT 59
• Go to Malatya Park AVM (shopping mall), the 14.9.3 Splurge

largest mall in eastern Turkey. An ice skating rink
and a movie theater with subtitled films are also • Altın Kayısı Hotel. Istasyon Caddesi 44200
available there. Malatya; 90-422-2114444
14.6 Buy 14.10 Connect

The area code of Malatya is (+90) 422.
14.7 Eat There is an internet cafe on the corner of Kernek Square
and Fuzuli Caddesi, opposite the Waterfalls Park.
The city is known for huge apricot orchards of the sur-
rounding countryside, and it’s possible to sample a num-
ber of local products based on apricot, from the usual
dried apricots to highly unique shish kebabs with grilled
14.11 Stay safe
apricots.
14.12 Cope
14.7.1 Budget
14.13 Go next
14.7.2 Mid-range
• Battalgazi — the original site of the city of Malatya,
14.7.3 Splurge Battalgazi has some remnants from its past, includ-
ing the beautiful Seljuk-built Great Mosque
14.8 Drink • Elazığ — another regional city to northeast, sur-

rounded by mountains and lakes; hub for visiting the
old town of Harput
There are a number of cafes along the Kanalboyu, some
of which serve hookah (nargile). • Mount Nemrut — Malatya can be a convenient hub
to the well-known sacred mountain, topped by head
• Nostalji Cafe (opposite the Yeşil Sinema). Housed statues devoted to ancient Gods. During spring and
in a two-floor historic building, this is the place to summer, you can join the daily trips starting from
try traditional drinks such as Turkish coffee, sahlep, the tourism information centre in the city hall (Vi-
or kefir. layet).
• Darende — historic town to west with traces of past

• Genç Girişimciler Derneği, Kışla Caddesi. The civilizations
only pub in Malatya.
• Kayseri — several hours to west, Kayseri is a good
hub for visits to Cappadocia, or onward trips to
Ankara, the national capital
14.9 Sleep
14.9.1 Budget
14.9.2 Mid-range
• Murat Palancı Oteli Turgut Temelli Cad. No: 26

Malatya; +90-422-3251003
• Yeni Butik Oteli Yeni Camii Karşısı Zafer iş Hanı

No:1 Malatya; +90-3231424
• Otel Avşar. Çevreyolu, Eski Otogar Karşısı

Malatya; +90-422-3248491
• Bezginler Hotel Çevreyolu Adliye Kavşağı No:12/3

Malatya; +90-422-3241252
Chapter 15
Tatvan
Tatvan is a town in Eastern Anatolia, located on the west- passenger trains to the area do make the de-tour and call
ern shore of Lake Van, which is the largest lake in Turkey. at the station, though.
15.1 Understand 15.2.2 By boat
15.1.1 Climate Train ferries connect Tatvan with Van, a rather large city
located on the eastern shore of Lake Van. These ferries
Summers are hot, averaging over 30°C (86°F) in the accept pedestrian passengers whether they have a con-
daytime, however, due to low humidity levels in eastern necting train ticket or not. It takes four hours to cross
Turkey, temperatures are much more comfortable than a the lake. If coming from the town center, ask the dolmus
humid place. At nights it is common even in the hottest driver for “ferryboat”.
month of the year (August) for temperatures to drop to Ferries crossing the lake depart every day from north of
12°C (53°F), so be sure to take at least a cardigan, if not the town center at ~07:00, ~12:00 and ~19:00 (5 TL) (as
something that would keep you warmer. Winters are very of June 2012).
cold with temperatures mostly below −5°C (23°F), so
take clothes to keep you warm and comfortable.
15.2.3 By car
15.2 Get in A wide highway which is in a very good condition con-
nects Tatvan with the city of Bitlis lying 20 or so km in-
15.2.1 By train land from the lake. In the other direction along the lake
the city of Van is 140 km away.
Vangölü Ekspresi (“Lake Van Express”) departs from
Istanbul’s Asian station (Haydarpaşa) twice a week on
Mondays and Fridays at 10:55PM and arrives in Tatvan 15.2.4 By bus
station after a 40-hr journey, on Wednesdays and Sun-
days at 2:17PM. This train also calls at a number of cities Town’s small otogar (bus station) is located on the high-
and towns across Asian Turkey, including Eskişehir, way to Bitlis, north of downtown, about half an hour’s
Ankara, Kayseri, Sivas, Malatya, and Elazığ among oth- worth of walk from town centre, and not very far from
ers. Inter Rail pass is accepted in this train. See Turkish the train station. Dolmuşes are also available to the cen-
railway authority’s website for detailed information. tre. However, most inter-city bus companies have offices
There is also another train from Elazığ, passing Muş on in town centre, too. In fact, most otogar offices are open
the way, which operate at least once weekly. It arrives at only during day hours, with most companies preferring
Tatvan at Tuesday evenings. to use central offices during the night, which are far more
convenient during the day hours, too.
Train station is in the upper part of the town (northwest of
downtown), about 20 minutes walk away from the town There is at least one daily bus to town from surrounding
centre. It’s off the main highway to Bitlis, but its en- cities such as Van, Batman (which costs 15 TL and takes
trance is not immediately visible from the road because around three and a half hours), and Diyarbakır.
of some buildings and trees inbetween—you may have to
ask around.
The station lies at the end of a spur line—the main line 15.3 Get around
normally heads straight to the train ferry harbour. All
60
15.10. CONNECT 61
15.4 See 40-90 TL. The only truly budget option is Gayda Otel.
Altilar Hotel is now closed.
Tatvan itself is not renowned for its historical or natural
gems as it is rather a bleak town of mostly new, concrete • Gayda Otel (On the main road through Tatvan,
development. It mainly serves travellers as a jumping off ~150m past the Carrefour, just after the mosque and
point to sights further afield. footbridge, on the right side of the road), ☎ +90 434
827-55-04. Shared bathrooms, semi-dirty toilets,
• Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı). This is the moun- no breakfast, small clean rooms, comfortable clean
tain you'll immediately notice when you turn your beds, very nice staff, no English, wifi, safe atmo-
eyes away from the lake, by virtue of being the high- sphere. There is another Gayda Otel that is more
est in the area with its summit being 3050 mt above modern (50 TL single). If you ask to see it, one of
the sea level (the town barely makes it above 1700 the staff will take you. 20 TL single.
metres). A volcanic one, it was the eruption of this
mountain that blocked the outlets of surrounding Camping by the lakes on Mt Nemrut is also a (free)
rivers and caused them to flood in and form Lake option. Although the amount of litter can be a bit off
Van in ancient times. Mount Nemrut has a num- putting.
ber of lakes inside its caldera, one of which is al-
ways warm enough to swim in, thanks to the nearby
hot springs. Some hotels and bus companies in Tat- 15.10 Connect
van provide tours to its summit and the lakes. It’s
also possible to take the tarmac road leading into
The telephone code of Tatvan is 434 (+90 434 when call-
its caldera. Not to be confused with the much more
ing from out of Turkey).
popular mountain of the same name near Adiyaman,
lying several hundred kms to west. There are numerous internet cafes dotted along the main
street in the town centre (some more modern than others)
costing 1.50 or 2 TL/hour. There is one just upstairs from
office of Van Gölü Seyahat bus company in town centre,
15.5 Do open till late at night and very convenient if you're looking
into spending your time until your departure.
• Lake Van tours. You can join boat tours on
Lake Van departing daily from the waterfront. 4
TL/person.
15.11 Go next
• Drink Tea with the locals. Take a stroll down the • Erzurum to the north; Malatya to the west;
main street on an evening and it’s more than likely Diyarbakir, Hasankeyf, and Southeastern Anatolia
you will be asked to join some friendly locals for Cay to the southwest; Van to the east, across the lake
(Turkish Tea). A great way to meet local Kurdish (Flag down a dolmus for 10TL). If you have your
people. passport ready with a visa, why not try moving on
further east to Iran—which is possibly why you are
in Tatvan in the first place anyway.
15.6 Buy
• Ahlat to north on the northwestern coast of Lake
• There is a supermarket called Carrefour inside the Van, about 45 minutes away from Tatvan by
big shopping mall in town centre. minibus, is, unlike Tatvan, a town of historical im-
portance with some artifacts to see. Its main sight
is a large Seljuk graveyard in the wide open steppe,
15.7 Eat though not as spooky as you might think, with ele-
gant headstones with much stonework.
15.8 Drink Trains — trains to Istanbul depart twice weekly - only

on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 7:10AM. If you happen to
miss the train of the day, nearest station is in Batman -
15.9 Sleep which has trains to Istanbul the following day (i.e. on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays). Trains also de-
A handful of hotels are located in the town centre along, part from Batman in the morning (around 9AM). Van
or just off, the main street (near the post office). Most Gölü Seyahat has a night bus (at midnight) from Tatvan
are clearly sign posted. Most single rooms cost between to Batman which costs 15 TL/person/one-way, arriving
62 CHAPTER 15. TATVAN
at Batman’s otogar around 4:30AM. Walking otogar to

train station take about one to one-and-a-half hour in Bat-
man. Alternatively, you can take buses to Istanbul di-
rectly from Tatvan, but they cost more than double (70
TL/person/one-way) of what the train costs (about 30
TL/person/one-way).
Chapter 16
Tunceli
Tunceli is a city in Eastern Anatolia, Turkey. and ask for them. They don't have a website yet.
As of April 2014, their phone numbers at various bus sta-
tions across the country are as follow:
16.1 Understand
• Erzincan: +90 446 214-26-00
Tunceli, home of 31,600 people, is surrounded by Mun-
zur Mountains, which are considered holy by locals, most • Istanbul: +90 212 658-05-60
of whom are Alevis, the largest non-Sunni Muslim group
in the country. • Ankara: +90 312 224-01-62.
The city, as well as the surrounding area, is also known by
the locals and some non-locals alike by its ancient name,
Dersim. Keep in mind that this name may be politically 16.3 Get around
loaded in some fractions of the Turkish society, as it likely
evokes a (positive or negative, depending on the world
view) feeling towards the Dersim Rebellion of 1936, one 16.4 See
of the largest uprisings against the Republican Turkish
government during its early years.
16.5 Do
16.2 Get in 16.6 Buy

16.2.1 By plane
16.7 Eat
Tunceli doesn't have an airport. The nearest airport is in
Elazığ. From Elazığ, you can find minibuses to Tunceli. 16.8 Drink
The trip takes about two hours and you will also use fer-
ryboat on the way, while crossing a dam lake.
Malatya-Erhaç Airport further southwest is another op- 16.9 Sleep
tion, as well as the airport at Erzincan.
Tunceli is a small city and you have few accommodation
options there.
16.2.2 By train
There is no railway connection with Tunceli. Elazığ is the • Demir Hotel, ☎ +90 428 212-15-51.
site of the nearest station for trains arriving from west.
Erzincan is also connected with the rest of the national • Grand Şaroğlu Hotel, Moğultay Mh, Behice Boran
railway network, and is receiving trains from Ankara and Cd. 20, ☎ +90 428 212-14-24. Possibly the most
Kars, among others. expensive option in the city at €46 (Apr 2014).
16.2.3 By bus • Hotel Has, Moğultay Mh., Boysan Cd. 10, ☎ +90
428 212-11-15.
Tuncelililer Bus Company has buses from the main cities
of the country. Just show up at the bus station (otogar) • Royal Demir Hotel, ☎ +90 428 212-55-01.
63
64 CHAPTER 16. TUNCELI
16.10 Connect
The area code for the city is (+90) 428.
16.11 Go next
Chapter 17
Van
Van (pronounced vahn, like the English word one) is in International train from Istanbul to Tehran (Trans-Asia
Eastern Anatolia, Turkey. It is located on the eastern Express) calls in Van once per week (on Thursday
shore of Lake Van (Van Gölü), a salt lake which is lo- evening, around 10pm, as of April 2011), see (note that
cally known as Van Denizi (“the sea of Van”). Lake Van this link is not up-to-date as of April 2011, despite being
is the largest lake in Turkey. the official website, the Van-Tabriz train leaves Van on
Tuesday evening, not Wednesday)
Apart from Trans-Asia, there is also another international
17.1 Get in train service once a week (on Tuesday evening as of April
2011) between Van station and Tabriz in NW Iran.
17.1.1 By bus
17.1.3 By plane
Buses leave to most destinations in Turkey. A ticket
to Diyarbakir costs 20 TL (09:00, 12:00 and 23:00, 6 There is an airport (Van Airport) located about 5-10 km
hours), to Malatya costs 25 TL (08:30, 9 hours) and away from the city. There are flights from Istanbul, Izmir,
Trabzon costs 50 TL (07:30 and 12:00, 12 hours). Re- Ankara and Antalya. Outside the airport there are taxis
member that most departure times are from the Otogar, to the city costing 20 YTL, but you can also walk for the
a few km’s out of town. Free shuttle buses run from the main road where dolmuses stop and take you to the city
main ticket offices in the town centre but remember to be only for 1 YTL. A new bus run by the municipality now
there at least half an hour before the scheduled departure serves the security entrance to the airport (past the taxis
time. As always, check details when buying the ticket. and towards the main road).
Minibuses to Doğubeyazıt and Yuksekova for border To get to the airport from the city centre, dolmuses
crossings to Iran. marked Hava Alani leave nearby Hotel Akdamar (Kazim
There are also two buses a day to and from Urmia in Iran Karabekir Caddesi). Drive takes about 15 minutes, mak-
costing only 15 Euros. ing weird detour because of the major roadworks.
17.1.2 By train 17.1.4 By boat
From Istanbul’s Haydarpaşa station (on the Asian side) There is a ferry line in the Lake Van, between Tatvan on
there are trains direct to Tatvan, a town on the west side the western shoreline and Van on the eastern shoreline.
of Lake Van, two times a week, on Mondays and Fridays. The ferry going to Tatvan leaves three times a day, morn-
This train (Vangölü Express) departs from Haydarpaşa at ing, noon and evening, though departure times are not
10:55PM and calls in a number of cities and towns across fixed. 5TL. It takes four hours to cross the lake.
Anatolia, including Eskişehir, Ankara, Kayseri, Sivas,
and Malatya among others. According to the timetable
all the way between Istanbul and Tatvan takes almost 40 17.2 Get around
hours (arriving in Tatvan at 2:17PM on Wednesdays and
Sundays), frequent and probably long delays discluded.
This is the longest (both in terms of miles traveled and 17.3 See
time spent inside the train) non-international train jour-
ney in Turkey and gives a through panorama of almost all • The castle, located on a high hill towards the water-
regions of inland Turkey. Inter Rail pass is accepted in front from the town with great vistas over the town
this train. Once arrived in Tatvan, you can take the ferry and the lake. Take a Dolmus to Kale; if you walk
which crosses the lake to Van. to and around the first small building you reach on
65
66 CHAPTER 17. VAN
the island and Armenian monastery of Arter. Orig-

inally with two churches, today only the Surp Asd-
vadzadzin Church remains, and is visible from the
lake shore. A boat must be chartered to visit, as
there is no regular ferry.
17.4 Talk
The fortress
Local people mainly speak Turkish and Kurdish. The
national language is Turkish, while the native language,
Kurdish, is also very common. People, especially the
young generation, understand some basic English.
17.5 Do
17.6 Buy
• Urartu Halı (handmade carpet), Van edremit
yolu 9.km (5 miles after Van airport), ☎
+904322179765. If you would like to see
beautiful handmade carpets and kilims, you could
Armenian Cathedral on Akdamar Island stop for this free presentation. If you are going to
buy, you need to bargain to get a reasonable price.
the road you can find a path up behind it, otherwise
go through the official entrance further down to road
towards the water and pay the fee. 17.7 Eat
• The ancient Armenian church (Ahtamar or Ak- The city is famous for its breakfast halls (kahvaltı sa-
damar) on a small island in Lake Van is beautiful, lonu), in which for about 10 lira, you are served a really
the church has recently been re-opened after an ex- filling breakfast including locally produced cheese (dif-
tensive restoration, making its impressive frescoes ferent types) and honey among many other stuff. The
possible to see. Price of the boat ride is fixed at price usually includes an unlimited amount of tea. Look
7.50 TL per person for a return (don't have to take around.
the same boat back, just take as long as you want on
the island). Private boat costs 100 TL. A dolmus,
signed Gevas / Akdamar, from the minibus otogar 17.8 Drink
in the north-east of the city, to the boat dock which
lies 50 km west of the city costs 5 TL.
17.9 Sleep
• The old city of Tuşpa a few kilometres west of the
city. Plenty of hotels around the northern end of the bazaar.
• Varagavank Monastery (Yedi Kilise) (10km east • Otel Şehrivan, Just off Sihke Caddesi (South of
of Van in the village of Bakrachli). The once large Sihke Caddesi close to Cumhurriyet Cd, opposite of
and impressive Armenian monastery of Varagavank Hazreti Ömer Mosque. Second street to the left com-
was partially destroyed during WWI, and swallowed ing from Cumhurriyet. Look for the big sign of the
up into a Kurdish village with homes built up against Çaldiran Hotel, the Şehrivan is just behind it.), ☎
it. What remains however is worth a visit, with a 0539 729 6838. You can walk pretty much any-
nice entrance with a series of unique crosses carved where in 10 min, minibuses to Akdamar and the
into it, and the interior with a couple of remaining Kale are even closer. Rooms are small but clean,
frescoes. powerful showers, decent WiFi, no breakfast. Staff
doesn't speak English but is rather helpful. Caution:
• Arter Monastery (charter boat). On an island a lit- There is a big mosque very close that has even longer
tle northwest of Akhtamar Island and Monastery is and louder calls to prayer than usual in the morning.
17.10. GO NEXT 67
You may not be able to sleep through them. 40 TL

for double room ensuite (September 2013).
• Hotel Emre, PTT Caddesi (One street west of the

main drag of Cumhuriyet Caddesi, one block north
of Hotel Yakut), ☎ 0544 497 47 46. A simple hotel
with trivial hot showers in the morning. A little noisy
outside during the day, but night is silent and with
decent staff. No breakfast and no English, but the
location is near everything and it’s by far the best
budget option after the earthquake. 30-40 TL per
person.
• Hotel Ipek, Cumhuriyet Cad. 1. Sokak No: 3

(Close to the big downtown mosque, around the cor-
ner from the old Hotel Aslan, which was destructed
during the earthquake), ☎ 0432 216 30 33. Simple
basic hotel, a bit noisy but with friendly staff. No
breakfast. single without/with shower 25/30 TL.
• Hotel Asur beside the tourist office, offers clean

rooms with attached bathroom. Single 60-80 TL,
Double 110 TL including breakfast. The staff speak
English and are very helpful.
• Otel Bahar, Ordu Caddesi, Carsi Polis Karakolu

Ustu (east of Cumhuriyet, near the big green
mosque), ☎ 0539 729 6838. Good location, clean
rooms, decent WiFi. However, bathroom door
didn't close, room was cramped since it had 4 beds
(supposed double room), no breakfast and staff was
grumpy. No lift. 70 TL for double room ensuite
(September 2013).
• Merit Sahmaran Hotel (4 star Hotel), Yeniköy

mevkii. Sahil cad.12 KM. No:60 Edremit VAN.
Merit Sahmaran Hotel is 4 star hotel near the Van
Lake
17.10 Go next
• Iran is only 100 kilometres away in the east. It is
possible to go by road or rail. (Be sure to have your
visa before you arrive in Van)
• Doğubeyazıt to north, which is near another border

gate to Iran, the stunning İshak Pasha Palace, and
the legendary Mount Ararat—the highest mountain
of Turkey. Doğubeyazıt has fairly extensive bus
connections to other destinations in Eastern Anato-
lia and is an easily accessible destination from Van.
Make sure to take the de-tour to Muradiye Water-
falls, located off the highway leading to Doğubeyazıt
from Van.
Chapter 18
Southeastern Anatolia
Southeastern Anatolia (Turkish: Güneydoğu Anadolu), • Siirt

unofficially known in a geographical sense (though not in
a political sense) as Turkish Kurdistan, is a region in the • Sirnak
south east of Turkey. It borders Syria and Iraq to the
south, and Iran to the East.
18.1 Cities • Beytussebap
• Adiyaman • Hasankeyf — a village on the banks of Tigris with

impressive ruins, caves, a citadel, and a bridge
• Batman — hub for visiting Hasankeyf, not much
else to visit • Lake Hazar (Hazar Gölü) — lying northwest of
• Birecik — town on the Euphrates with a sanctuary Diyarbakır, from which it is a two-hour train jour-
on the cliffs overlooking the river for critically en- ney away, Lake Hazar is some sort of local resort
dangered bald ibises native to the area amidst the mountains, and its crystal blue waters is
awarded “Blue Flag”, which guarantees water purity
• Diyarbakir — the biggest city of the region with an
old town surrounded by city walls • Nemrut Dagi (Mt. Nimrod) — a UNESCO World
Heritage site with head statues on its summit
• Gaziantep — another big city of the region, arguably
the last “Europeanized” city when travelling east
from here
18.3 Understand
• Hakkari
• Halfeti — historical town north of Birecik on the
Euphrates, unfortunately half of which is swallowed
by a dam lake, though this presents the unique ex-
perience of taking a boat tour to the citadel on the
hill in what is essentially surrounded by otherwise
semi-desert lands
• Harran — ancient village south of Urfa renowned
for its “beehive” adobe houses topped by a dome
• Hilvan
• Kahramanmaras
• Kahta — nearest village to Mount Nemrut, making
it a convenient base to explore there
Tigris when flowing through Hasankeyf
• Mardin — a hilltop historical city with exquisite
stonework architecture and Syriac churches
This region has a lot in common with its southern neigh-
• Urfa (officially Şanlıurfa) — wonderful city fea- bours, namely Syria and Iraq, be it the culture, the lan-
turing arched Middle East architecture, Abraham’s guages spoken or the landscape, and is the "Middle-
birthplace, and friendly locals in Arab dresses Eastern-most" part of Turkey.
68
18.4. TALK 69
Southern half of the region is fairly shadeless plains a low profile and live in fairly off the beaten path villages,
(sometimes totally flat as far as eye can see) dominated as a result of centuries of repression as well as religious
by steppes that are bright yellow in summer. Northern commands to stay away from non-Yazidis.
half is hillier, but still mostly devoid of trees nonetheless. There was also a sizable Armenian population in South-
Two major rivers of Middle East, namely Euphrates eastern Anatolia, but the events of 1915 hit the commu-
(Turkish: Fırat) and Tigris (Turkish: Dicle), after orig- nity hard. Nowadays, there is a handful of mostly elder
inating from the snowy mountains of Eastern Anatolia, Armenians in the region, mainly in Diyarbakır.
flow through the region with many of region’s cities and In addition to these sedentary peoples, there are also
sites either directly on or near either one’s banks, and then
nomadic Kurds, who pass the winter in the relatively
cross Turkey’s southern border into Syria and Iraq. warmer region and move on to cooler plateaus of Eastern
While you may occasionally come across a tout in more Anatolia with their herds in summer, in search of pasture.
touristy parts (e.g., Urfa) or kids asking for money—
which is pretty much the full extent of their English vo-
cabulary, apart from the ubiquitous hello—normally, the
local people are extremely hospitable and friendly (some- 18.3.2 Climate
times to a fault) and are willing to help you in any way
they can—they are just proud that, after so many years While it is hot in absolute terms with temperature fre-
of armed conflict and political instability, travellers from quently above 40°C, rainless summers in Southeastern
far away places are now making the effort to see their Anatolia tend to be more comfortable, at least in shade,
hometowns. than Mediterranean Turkey which lies on the same lati-
tude, thanks to the low humidity of this arid, non-coastal
climate. Snowfall is occasional in winter and generally
18.3.1 People happens in relatively hillier eastern and northern parts of
the region (i.e. around Mardin, Batman, and Diyarbakır).
Looking from outside, Southeastern Anatolia may seem
to be inhabited by Kurds only, but when projected closer,
you will find a diverse array of religions and ethnicities in
the region, although not up to the levels once found during
the Ottoman period.
18.4 Talk
Western quarter of the region, west of Euphrates River to
be more precisely, are mostly populated by Turks, with In Southeastern Anatolia, the Euphrates River (Fırat)
villages populated by Kurds here and there. The major- forms some sort of linguistic boundary: west of the
ity of population east of Euphrates, on the other hand, is Euphrates is mostly Turkish speaking with a Kurdish-
Kurdish. speaking minority while the mother tongue of most of the
locals living east of the Euphrates is Kurdish. However,
Southernmost parts of the region along the Syrian border, most locals in the region are also bilingual in Turkish, al-
as well as a line in the northeast ranging from Hasankeyf though heavily accented in most cases.
to Siirt are the main centres of local Arab population in
While traveling in southeastern Anatolia, it is important
Turkey.
to be conscious of whom you are speaking with. At mil-
Ancient Tur Abdin region in the southeast, centred itary checkpoints, Turkish and English will suffice (most
around Mardin and western half of Şırnak Province, and Turkish officers speak some English, usually due to pre-
historically dominated by Orthodox Christian Syriacs vious training in the United States); it is critical not to test
("Suryaniler"), is an altogether different story. Amongst your smattering of Kurdish words with the Turkish mil-
the inhabitants of this region are Yazidis, a Kurdish- itary. When amongst Kurdish friends, the Kurdish lan-
speaking people with a fairly unique belief system— guage is appropriate, but be sure not to place your hosts in
which leads to them being derogatorily called “heathens” an uncomfortable situation by speaking in Kurdish while
or “original Satanists” by other locals and non-locals alike. other Turks are present.
Yazidi belief system combines influences from Sufi Is-
lam and ancient Mesopotamian and Persian religions, in Arabic might also be useful as it is the mother tongue of
which Melek Taus, symbolized by a peacock and usually many people living in the western and southern parts of
compared to the “satan” figure of Abrahamic religions—a the region, especially in and around Gaziantep, Sanliurfa,
comparison that Yazidis find highly offensive—is a highly Hasankeyf, and Siirt. Syriac, also known as Assyrian, a
revered entity, and seen as the source of light and repre- direct descendent of Jesus Christ’s mother tongue Ara-
sentative of God on Earth. The major rites of Yazidis, maic, can also be heard spoken by small communities in
in which the participants face the Sun, are conducted on and around Mardin and Midyat.
hilltops twice daily, during sunrise and sunset. Nowadays, Many Arabic and Farsi expressions have made their way
Yazidis, most of whom emigrated from the region, keep into the local vernacular.
70 CHAPTER 18. SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
18.5 Get in 18.7.1 Itineraries

• Getting off the beathen path in the deep south-
While not on the same level as the buses in western Ana-
east — If militant activity is quiet, take the high-
tolia, bus service into and throughout southeastern Ana-
way from Şırnak to Hakkari, with a detour north to
tolia is decent enough with services from major centres
Beytüşşebap. The highway skirts along the Habur
throughout the country. You'll find buses running be-
River, the border between Turkey and Iraq, and af-
tween most major destinations daily (oftentimes more
fords spectacular views of the Kandil Mountains. A
than once daily). In the very deep southeast around Sir-
few minibuses run daily from Şırnak to Beytüşşe-
nak, Beytussebap and Hakkari, dolmuş (shared van-taxis)
bap. A morning dolmuş (shared van-taxi) runs daily
and minibuses are far more common but do not run as
from Beytüşşebap to Hakkari, where you can catch
frequently or on as tight a schedule.
proper coaches for northern destinations.
Major airports with domestic services are located in
Gaziantep, Urfa, and Diyarbakır in the region.
Diyarbakır and Batman have three times weekly train 18.8 Do
services (Güney Express) with Istanbul via the interior of
the country, including a stop in Ankara, the national capi-
tal. Toros Express which offered some impressive moun- 18.9 Eat
tainous scenery and connected Gaziantep with Istanbul
via Konya and Adana, on the other hand, has been sus- Local cuisine is heavily dependent on meaty fare, with
pended in 2008 and it is not certain when or if it will re- Gaziantep and Urfa being renowned nationwide for their
sume service. However, Gaziantep has a recently intro- local varieties of kebabs. Vegetarians will have a tough
duced weekly passenger train service from the opposite time in the region and should prepare themselves for ran-
direction, Mosul in northwestern Iraq, crossing a short sacking supermarkets for canned vegetable meals and eat-
strip of Syrian territory and running on the rail line just ing lots of unsavory and unexciting pastry.
north of no man’s land along Turkish-Syrian border. (Up-A local product not to be missed is pistachio, grown in
date, August 2010. Mosul service has been suspended un- the countryside surrounding Gaziantep and Siirt, in the
til further notice.) Gaziantep also has twice weekly direct
southwest and northeast of the region respectively. While
train connections with the major Syrian city of Aleppo. it is known as Antep fıstığı (i.e. “pistachio of Gaziantep”)
Gaziantep is connected to west by a motorway. There are in Turkish, people of Siirt vehemently object to this name,
also other major, but occasionally pot-holed, highways and preferring to call it instead as Siirt fıstığı (“pistachio
from north, south, and southeast into the region. of Siirt”) or with the local name bıttım, mostly unknown
in the rest of the country. Gaziantep variety is smaller
and tastier, but both are worth a try.
18.6 Get around
18.10 Drink
Bus and minibus service is generally robust, although
schedules are not closely adhered to and you may find
Tea (“chay”): it’s everywhere. Be sure to add copious
yourself waiting an extra hour or two for that minibus that
amounts of sugar to blend in with the local population.
everyone has been promising will arrive soon. Private ve-
Anything less than three cubes just won't do.
hicles often serve as taxis but for fees that are higher than
one would expect. Be ready to haggle. Hitchhiking is
far easier than anywhere else in Turkey, with lift offers
generally coming from the first vehicle passing by. It’s 18.11 Stay safe
pretty much safe, too, as long as you stick on the main
roads at least. In the past, however, it’s known that PKK Stay abreast of the news in northern Iraq and southeast-
have raided private traffic on roads in deeper southeastern ern Turkey before and during your visit to the region. The
Anatolia. politics of the region is very fluid with the Turkish govern-
ment threatening military intervention into northern Iraq
Many roads in the region is full of potholes and locals
and the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) making raids
drive somewhat recklessly, even more so than the rest of
on military outposts as well as attacking civilian targets
the country, so be extra careful if you are the one who is
like minibuses—though the situation is getting better and
driving actually.
safer day by day. The Turkish military will sometimes
declare security zones in the area, making civilian travel
to the region impossible. It is often best to talk to fellow
18.7 See travelers in Istanbul, Ankara or, even better, Diyarbakir
before making your way into the deep southeast. Don't
18.13. GO NEXT 71
trust the Istanbulites who will suggest that you won't live
through any visit east of Ankara. A vast majority of them
have never left Istanbul. A trip to southeastern Anatolia
is very much feasible and, for the most part, safe. The
deep southeast should be done with more caution, but it
too is possible for the hardy traveler.
On some non-major routes, you may run into a few mil-
itary checkpoints, though all you need to do is showing
your passport (therefore keep it handy during rides, not
buried deep in your backpack). Keeping a short list of
cities on your itinerary in mind may save time in case of
further questioning at checkpoints.
18.12 Stay healthy

The arid climate in Southeastern Anatolia can quickly dry
your skin, especially your hands, and especially if you
have a sensitive skin and/or are normally living in a hu-
mid, coastal climate. So don't forget to pack along some
kind of moisturizer if you intend to stay more than a few
days in the region.
Being not accustomed to heavily spicy/hot food, in addi-
tion to the fact that some food are prepared in less than
perfectly hygienic ways, may lead to stomach trouble in
some travellers whilst in the region.
18.13 Go next
Don't: It’s far too beautiful.
But if the travel bug keeps you from settling in a place for
a prolonged period, you may want to go on your Middle
East experience with Syria just across the border to south,
which can be crossed via a number of border gates south
of Gaziantep, Urfa, and Mardin. If you are into im-
mersing in more of Kurdish culture, head to Iraqi Kur-
distan, the safest part of the country, via Habur border
gate near Silopi, southeast of Mardin. Heading west from
Southeastern Anatolia, if you have not already arrived
from that direction, will make you meet warm waters of
Mediterranean, a totally different world. But if you rather
prefer to chill than to sunbathe, then head north and east
into the mountainous realm of Eastern Anatolia.
Chapter 19
Batman
Batman (pronounced as baat-maan, not like the name ing/buying the ticket in advance. Even if you can
of the superhero; Kurdish: Iluh) is a city in south-eastern find a ticket, the ride is very uncomfortable, and be-
Turkey. It is the capital of an important oil producing cause of the huge numbers of passengers getting off
province. the train in almost each stop—even if it is in the mid-
dle of nowhere, where normally no one ever gets on
or off—to replenish their water from station foun-
19.1 Understand tains, trains are extremely delayed, and it takes al-
most two full days to get to Istanbul. Avoid if you
are not deadly on budget.
A village of a couple of hundred people in 1950s when
petroleum was discovered in the surrounding mountains, • There is also a regional airport near Batman.
Batman has grown ever since, having a population of sev-
eral hundred thousands today. Large numbers of immi- • Buses are available from various cities across
grants from surrounding region also contributed to quick Turkey, especially frequent are the services from
urbanization, usually with no respect to building codes. surrounding cities such as Diyarbakir and Tatvan (at
Therefore, most of the city is slums surrounding a plaza least one daily; it costs 15 TL pp from Tatvan). The
by the railway station in the downtown and an oil refinery bus station (otogar) of the city is located in the north-
south of the station. ern outskirts, about one to one and a half hour walk
City’s name, entirely unrelated to the one of superhero, away from the city centre/train station.
is a shortened form of Batı Raman, i.e. “Western Ra-
man (Mountains)" where petroleum was first found in
the vicinity and in fact younger than the superhero him- 19.3 Get around
self, since the former village of Iluh was only renamed in
1950s (vs. 1939 when superhero first appeared).
19.4 See
19.2 Get in 19.5 Do
• By rail from Istanbul and Ankara via Diyarbakır by
Güney Express, which has its last stop in Kurtalan,
about 40 km further east from Batman. It de-
parts three times a week. The same train departs
from Batman on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fri-
days around 9-10AM in the morning on its way back
to Istanbul, passing via Diyarbakır (about 2 hours
from Batman). A bed in a sleeper car costs slightly
more than 60 TL between Istanbul and Batman.
Credit cards are accepted in Batman station. Trains
to Istanbul get really overcrowded during early Au-
gust because of huge numbers of seasonal workers
taking the train to get to hazelnut orchards around
Adapazarı and Eastern Marmara on the way (short
of two hours from Istanbul—the last stop of the
trains), and it is impossible to find a ticket further Exiting Batman
than Diyarbakır during that season without book-
72
19.10. GO NEXT 73
• One of the most popular things for tourists to do is

taking pictures of things with the word Batman on
them, such as the highway sign at the entrance of the
city.
19.6 Buy
There is an ATM (of Halkbank) located on the side of
the small square near the train station.
19.7 Eat
19.8 Drink
19.9 Sleep
19.10 Go next
• Hasankeyf on the banks of Tigris River to the south
is, unlike Batman, a village full of historical sights
and impressive views of nature. About 40 minutes
away.
Chapter 20
Diyarbakir
Diyarbakır (Kurdish and Zaza: Amed; Turkified form pared for several ID check ups at military checkpoints.
of Diyarbekir is also common in colloquial Kurdish) is
the largest city in Southeastern Anatolia, on the banks of
Tigris (Dicle), one of the greatest rivers of Middle East,
and considererd by many to be the capital of the Kurdish
20.2 Get around
people.
20.3 See
20.1 Get in
Turkish Airlines offers daily domestic flights from
Istanbul (IST) and Ankara to Diyarbakir (DIY).
There are trains three times a week from Istanbul (Güney
Express) via Ankara and a number of other cities on the
way, including Kayseri, Sivas, and Malatya among oth-
ers. There is also another daily train from Ankara (4 Eylül
Mavi Treni), which takes the same route with Güney Ex-
press. On its way back to Istanbul, Güney Express, which
comes from Kurtalan and Batman about 2 hours further
east from Diyarbakır, departs from Diyarbakır on Mon-
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays around noon. Trains to
Istanbul get really overcrowded during early August be-
cause of huge numbers of seasonal workers taking the Diyarbakır’s Ulu Camii or grand mosque, built in 1091.
train to get to hazelnut orchards around Adapazarı and
Eastern Marmara on the way (short of two hours from The old city containing many mosques and churches, is
Istanbul—the last stop of the trains), and it is impossible a little run down but enclosed in magnificent walls. The
to find a ticket during that season without booking/buying city walls are very old and certainly worth a walk around.
the ticket in advance. Even if you can find a ticket, the Some of towers are restored by the municipality and are
ride is very uncomfortable, and because of the huge num- easy to reach from the center of the old city. One such
bers of passengers getting off the train in almost each is Kechi Burcu, which offers a nice view of Tigris river
stop—even if it is in the middle of nowhere, where nor- below the city, and a great look over the city walls—a tea-
mally no one ever gets on or off—to replenish their water house offering traditional tea is nearby as well. However,
from station fountains, trains are extremely delayed, and be careful while walking on the walls and do not enter
it takes almost two full days to get to Istanbul. Avoid if into all of the towers which looks fancy enough, as some
you are not deadly on budget. of them are home to junkies.
Many local bus companies offer services from cities all The old city is like a village in the middle of the city with
over Turkey, including, among others, Erzurum (6 hours, village mentality; goose running around, women having
bargainable down to 35 TL from the standard fare of 50 cay in front of their houses and kids shouting to foreigners
TL), and Mardin (dolmuş-type service, 2 hours, 9 TL— the few English words they know.
make sure you have your change back if you have no exact
However, walking around in the city center is unique and
amount). The main bus station (otogar) is about 10 km totally different from other Turkish cities. You'll see peo-
away from city centre, along the highway to Urfa. ple as they live their everyday Kurdish life. If you are
When traveling from Diyarbakir to west by bus be pre- lucky, you may even get invited for a tea by a friendly
74
20.6. EAT 75
shop owner. agricultural implements.

To avoid problems, dress modestly. There is extensive You can also find cheap (around 25 TL) traditional Kur-
development outside including a pleasant park. It’s called dish trousers, the kind that older men wear every day.
Gazi Kösk and it contains many teahouses and traditional Enjoy tea and bargaining sessions with some friendly
bed-like constructions, where you sink into cushions and Bazaar shopkeepers.
drink tea while overlooking the Dicle river below.
• Great Mosque of Diyarbakır (Diyarbakır Ulu 20.6 Eat

Camii), Gazi Cd (In centre of the Old Town, near
main crossroad). The oldest mosque in Anatolia,
Grilled lamb liver, ciğer kebabı, is a famous part of Di-
built in the 11th century by Malikh Shah,the Emir
yarbakır cuisine.
of the Seljuk Turks. Free.
Ekşili etli dolma, meftune, içli köfte are some other “must
• Kervanseray, Gazi Cd (Opposite the Great Mosque). taste"s.
Old caravanserai, now used as a place for cafes,
bookstores, and souvenir shops. Free. • Hasan Pasha Hani, Best place to get breakfast in
Diyarbakir, located in an old caravanserai. Break-
• Meryem Ana Kilisesi (Virgin Mary Church), Ana fast consists of your entire table being covered in
Sokak 26, Suriçi (In the Old Town, close to Melik many small dishes of tasty foods. Expensive by lo-
Ahmet Cd, signposts indicate where the church is). cal standards but still very affordable, and delicious.
Limited visiting hours, posted on the entrance. A
Syrian Orthodox church founded in 3rd century. If • Buket Lahmacun, One of the most popular and
you are lucky, the priest will sing you a fragment of tastiest places in Diyarbakir to try lahmacun (lahma-
the Bible in Aramaic. Free. jun), thin crispy dough covered in meat and spices.
Is very tasty and quite cheap. Comes with many sal-
• Surp Giragos Armenian church (Ermeni Kilis- ads.
esi) (Next to the Virgin Mary Church, signposts in-
dicate where the church is). The largest Armenian • Dağ Kapı Ciğercisi, a restaurant popular with lo-
church in the Middle East, this edifice was recently cals for its grilled liver on a skewer. The restaurant
restored by municipality. The first inauguration for is in an old house and is very big.
a long time was held in October 2011 and has since
officially started to serve the local Armenian com- A mixture of wheat grain, chick-peas, and yoghurt called
munity. Free. mehir is purported to be very good for the stomach and is
said to help healing stomach problems.
20.4 Do Diyarbakır is very famous for its desserts. Kadayıf,

künefe are the two main types of desserts. They are ac-
quired tastes, though, as they are very sweet and con-
You can go for a walk on the old city wall. Get onto it at tain huge amounts of sugar. Saim Usta is perhaps the
the northern gate and walk anticlockwise to Mardin Gate. best place to have kadayıf in town, while for künefe, you
Great views of the surrounding area and the city and it’s should check out Levent Usta.
free. Single tourists might be conspicuous, however, and
should beware of pickpockets. The walls serve as home to
drug addicts, criminals and poor children - don't wander
alone.
20.7 Drink
Many tourists only visit the old part of Diyarbakir, but There are many tea gardens in Ofis and along the basalt
don't miss the new and modern New City. Around Ofis city walls, where you can meet locals. People in Di-
district you find a lot of nice bars and cafès filled with yarbakir are very open towards foreigners and you'll have
lots of students and young couples. Some bars have live a hard time paying for your own tea.
music; ask some locals on the street for suggestions. Don't
worry about security issues as this part of the city is filled
• Mahya Kahve Evi (Mahya Coffee House), Dicle
with policemen.
sokak 2a (In Ofis, just off the main street where
buses run from bus station to city center), e-mail:
mahyakahveevi@gmail.com. Open till late at night.
20.5 Buy This coffeehouse, (a mahya ıs a message spelled out
by lights strung between minarets) has over 70 vari-
In the old city you will find many people manufacturing eties of coffee and a nice interior. The owners and
metal tools by hand - sickles, hammers, and other, mostly customers are very friendly and easygoing.
76 CHAPTER 20. DIYARBAKIR
• Tigris Cafe Nargile Salonu, Camii Sk. (now ap- • Hotel Ekin (not 'Hotel Evin' as one popular guide
parently called Sanat Sokak) Cüneyt Bey Apt Altı book calls it). The hotel is very clean, good views
16/B (In Ofis, near Yeşil Camii), ☎ +90 412 228 28 from the breakfast lounge at the top. The windows
84. Apart from nargilas, you can drink there deli- are good and have to be due to the traffic noise and
cious menengiç kahvesi, which is a very sweet milk frequent honking of municipal buses in front of the
based drink, a local speciality. The Tigris also has hotel. It’s easy to get into the newer part of the city.
European style toilets available if you should be des- The best locations for nighttime cafes etc is called
perate. Ofis. This area is about 20 minutes walking distance
from the hotel and safe at night. Go to the big junc-
• Hasan Paşa Hanı, Kıbrıs Cd, e-mail: tion to the right of the hotel and cross over to the
hasanpasahani@hotmail.com. Besides coffee other side of the city walls. A single room sets you
and tea, you can have an extremely rich breakfast back about 50 TL which is pretty good value. (Of-
and/or brunch here in the 500-year-old inn’s nice ficial price is 60 TL but the hotel usually offers the
atmosphere. reduction itself. You might also negotiate an appro-
priate rate.).
• Ninova Cafe, Sanat Sokağı (At Ofis, ask for the
Sanat Sokağı; it’s on the middle). 11:00-23:00. Cof-
• GAP Otel (in the northern part of the city). TV,
fee, tea, menengiç coffee, hot wine etc. cheap.
fridge, and 24-hr hot water is provided. The place
looks nice, but it’s down a narrow and dirty dead-
end street. Limited amounts of tea offered by the
20.8 Sleep friendly owner. Double rooms with A/C for 30 TL
if you bargain; rooms with en-suite bathrooms for
40 TL.
In summer check that your hotel has aircon since Di-
yarbakir can become very hot! There are quite some
budget-midrange hotels on Suleyman Caddesi, close to
the wall or at Inönü Caddesi. Check around for good 20.9 Stay safe
prices.
Diyarbakır is rough. At first glance, it seems not to be a
• Hotel Surkent, Hz. Suleyman Cd, 19 (Close to the very welcoming city, but the opposite is true. However,
wall and center.), ☎ +90 412 228 1014. Check- life in this city is hard for many people. It is not advisable
out: 11AM. Small but clean rooms and toilets, very at all to walk alone during the night time, especially in the
colourful (pink walls!) Air-conditioning, heating, old quarter. Taking some precautions during the visit is
small fridge, comfortable beds, hot shower, western advisable, just common sense. Don't hang around in dark
toilets, flat-screen TV. Some of the staff speaks En- areas; try not to look like the typical tourist, etc.
glish. If you are a foreigner a self-styled tour-guide While walking around the old city, you will see many
called Omar might appear and offer his services. He children playing with toy guns, and, this could sound a
didn't seem to knowledgeable about the sights, but little extreme, but they might try shooting you with plas-
he wasn't too pushy trying to sell his 60 TL tour. He tic guns—be careful. Children can also be very annoy-
answered other local questions though and his En- ing here, shouting “Money!Money!" at you and following
glish was rather decent. There is a laundry service you around. Not advised to give them money since that
for 5 TL/ 2 kg which was fast but returned the laun- reveals the location of your purse and will probably not
dry still wet. 30 TL single room in June 2012, 60 stop them. Just try to ignore them or try saying “Ayyip!"
TL for a double (September 2013). (shame).
The main shopping road, Gazi Caddesi, in the old quar-
• Hotel Kent, Hz. Suleyman Cd (Opposite the ter also houses two pricey hotels (one of them being the
Surkent). Check-out: 11AM. Looks a bit more run- “Green Park”) what might lead you to expect that the area
down than the Surkent, but has Aircon as well. 50 is safe. Be warned! The lower end of the street toward the
TL for a double (September 2013). Mardin Kapı, the Mardin Gate, is pretty dark and can be
dangerous at night. Do not become prey to pickpockets
• Hotel Sürmeli, Hz. Suleyman 19 (Close to the who seem to hang around there.
Surkent). Check-out: 11AM. Two stars, lobby was The modern part of Diyarbakir is very much safer.
clean and bright, reception spoke some English. 80
However, Diyarbakir seems to have recovered from the
TL for a double (September 2013).
old times and the police are trying their best to provide a
high level of security. So don't let the issues mentioned
• Aslan Hotel, Kıbrıs Cd. Budget-friendly hotel. 45 above scare you off, as the city itself is still a jewel among
TL/night/single. others in eastern Turkey, offering an amazing and un-
20.10. GO NEXT 77
forgettable charm. Tourist crowds are still tending more

to Mardin (1h away), so enjoy having the city mostly to
yourself.
20.10 Go next
• Hasankeyf — village to east, downriver on the
Tigris, with lots of medieval Islamic architecture
and pleasant vistas.
• Mardin (10 TL by Dolmus from otogar) and

Şanlıurfa are both a day’s trip from Diyarbakir
• Karacadag, the forerunner of domesticated wheat

originated in the mountains of Karacadag. Cultiva-
tion of wheat in the area dates back to approximately
8,800 BCE. Today Karacadag is home to seasonal
nomads. Explore the ancient villages populated by
Turkmen and Kurdish tribes.
• See where the first animals in the world were do-

mesticated as mankind started settled farming at
Çayönü around 40km north-west of Diyarbakir.
The site is hugely important for neolithic research
and dates from 7200 to 6600 BC.
Chapter 21
Gaziantep
Gaziantep, or informally known as Antep, is a city in 21.3 Get around

Southeastern Anatolia.
The city centre is reasonably compact and walkable.
There are plenty of local buses if you prefer and of course
21.1 Understand taxis for tired feet.
Set in western reaches of Southeastern Anatolian plateau,

Gaziantep is a surprisingly large (with a population of al- 21.4 See
most 2,000,000) and modern city.
• Archaeological Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi),
Kamil Ocak Caddesi 2, Şehitkamil (Corner of Kamil
21.2 Get in Ocak Caddesi and İstasyon Caddesi, just south of
train station), ☎ +90 342 324-88-09, fax: +90 342
21.2.1 By plane 324-38-22. Tu-Su 8:30AM-noon 1PM-6PM (May-
Sep); Tu-Su 8AM-noon 1PM-4:30PM (Oct-Apr).
Gaziantep Airport. 15 km from city center. You can This local archaeological museum, which also has a
reach the city center from the airport with the Havaş shut- small cafe inside, is wheelchair accessible. 2 TL.
tle service (9 lira, departs after most incoming flights)
• Gaziantep Castle (Gaziantep Kalesi). First built
by the Romans this castle was a major battle ground
21.2.2 By bus
during World War I as well as the Turkish War of In-
dependence. The museum showcases this well, even
The bus station (otogar) of the city is quite a few kilome-
if the talk on national heroes might come off as a lit-
ters out of town. It is connected to city centre by local
tle too detailed and boring for non-Turks. The view
public buses, which cost 0.95 TL one-way.
from the top of the castle is worth the entrance itself.
Buses from Mersin on the Mediterranean coast in the west 1 TL, 0,50 TL for students.
take around 5 hours and cost 25 TL, while the service
from Urfa in the east takes 4 hours and also costs 25 TL.
• Cuisine Museum (Emine Göğüş Gaziantep Mut-
fak Müzesi), Karagöz Mah, Sadık Dai Sok No:16
21.2.3 By train (South of the castle, there’s many hard-to-miss sign-
posts), ☎ +90 342 232 6616. Interesting museum on
Due to the ongoing upheaval in nearby Syria as well as traditional Turkish cuisine and tools used for food
major track works across Turkey rail services are now preparation. 1 TL (0.50 TL for students).
limited to regional trains. Passenger services with the fa-
mous Toros Express from Istanbul might resume in 2015 • Zeugma Mosaic Museum (Zeugma Mozaik
when the new high-speed rail system is finished. Interna- Müzesi), Hacı Sani Konukoğlu Blv, ☎ +90 342 325-
tional trains from Aleppo and Mosul are cancelled and 27-27, fax: +90 342 324-38-22. Tu-Su 09:00-
with no end in sight for the Syrian Civil War nor the con- 17:00 (Apr-Oct), 09:00-17:30 (Nov-Mar); last en-
flict in northern Iraq, they are most likely not to be rein- try: 16:30. Opened in 2011, Zeugma Museum hosts
stated in the near future. stunning mosaics excavated at the nearby Zeugma,
a city of antiquity known for its pontoon bridge
• Gaziantep railway station (Gaziantep Garı), crossing the Euphrates, and is now submerged un-
Yaprak Mh (2½ kilometers north of city centre). der the waters of the Birecik Dam. 8 TL.
78
21.8. DRINK 79
• St. Mary’s Armenian Church (Kurtulush Jami) 21.8 Drink

(Corner of Tufan Hamam Sk. and Cami Sk.). Grand
old Armenian Church with white stone walls with Many of Antep’s drinking establishments are basically for
black checkered edges. The church was converted picking up women. However there are some nice bira-
to Kurtulus Mosque after the Armenian Genocide hanes (“beer-houses”) where you can enjoy a quiet drink
but architecturally remains nearly intact. Right in in peace.
the center of the city.
21.9 Sleep
21.5 Do
• Yunus Hotel, Bey Mah. Kayacık Sokak No 16,
Visit the castle, explore the bazaars and don't forget the Şahinbey (off Atatürk Boulevard, parallel to Hür-
museum. There are a lot of museums in the center of city, riyet Caddesi behind the Post Office), ☎ +90 342 221
especially some of them are close to castle. You should 1722, e-mail: hotelyunus@hotmail.com. Two stars
go Mosaic Museum (close to stadium), Medusa Museum in city centre with very clean rooms and free Wi-Fi.
(Glass Museum), Martyr’s Museum, Dervishes Museum Staff are exceptionally friendly, although there is not
(Mevlevihane), Hasan Süzer Etnographia Museum. a lot of English. 35 TL/50 TL low/high season for a
double room including breakfast.
• Allstar Sevcan Hotel. Three stars in city centre.

21.6 Buy +90 342 220 66 86.
You can buy a lot of traditional things in Gaziantep. You • Tugcan Hotel. Five stars in the city. +90 342 220
should try Bakırcılar Çarşısı, a traditional bazaar in the 43 23
center of the city. You can buy baklava, nargile (hooka
pipe), yemeni (local leather shoes) and much more...
• Hotel Burak, Alabey Mah. Hürriyet Cad,
As the centre of a large pistachio-growing region, as the 27, Şahinbey, ☎ +90 342 220 4990, e-mail:
groves along the highway leading to Gaziantep indicate, info@gaziantepburakhotel.com. It is a good hotel,
you can find many stores selling this local product (known in a perfect location. In February 2010, it was pos-
in Turkish as Antep Fıstığı, i.e. “Pistachio of Antep”, sible to bargain the price from the original 45 TL
an expression which surpassed the former name of Şam down to 35 TL, including the dinner and a very good
Fıstığı, i.e. “Pistachio of Damascus", used during Ot- breakfast. Obtaining the reduction will depend on
toman period), both fresh (not very tasty, though) and also the season, the manager, and the ability to bargain.
in a salty roasted variety (a lot more delicious!). 35 to 45 TL/single room.
• Hotel Evin (directly opposite the Yunus Hotel). Not

21.7 Eat the most sparkling of hotels, but absolutely accept-
able and with a private bathroom, satellite TV and
Wi-Fi. 25 TL/45 TL low/high season a room with a
Antep is known for its cuisine that is heavily influenced double bed.
by its southern neighbours. The city is renowned for its
local variety of kebab (Antep kebabı). You can find many
places that sell spicy kebabs here. Make sure you enter a • Uğurlu Hotel, Bey Mah. Kayacık Sok. No 14 (next
place that is crowded and order ayran with your kebab. to Yunus Hotel), ☎ +90 342 220 96 90. 100-140 TL,
Try a lahmacun, which is minced, marinated, spiced meat but bargainable down to 80 TL for a double room,
with minced vegetables on an extremely thin, crunchy including breakfast.
dough. Lahmacun can be made with garlic or onions, in
general, you will find garlic ones in Antep.
Antep is also famous for its pistachios. You can find fresh,
21.10 Go next
unroasted pistachios as well as roasted ones. Try the spicy
nuts. From city’s otogar you will find numerous agents sell-
ing tickets to dozens of destinations including Istanbul,
Upon finishing your dinner, make sure to have baklava Konya, Van, Dogubeyazit, and Antalya to name a few.
made with pistachios. Also, you can try the hot desserts Buses leave frequently. Shop around for the best price.
with a scoop of ice cream on top.
Antep is known for its food, and meals there are one of
the highlights of visiting the region. So enjoy yourself.
Chapter 22
Hasankeyf
22.3 See
Hasankeyf is rich in history throughout the ages. The
main archaeological highlight of Hasankeyf is the citadel
on the very top of the town, overlooking the river. Con-
sidering how extensive these ruins are, an entire day (or
two) could easily be spent exploring.
The grand days of Hasankeyf are long gone, so most
sights are in a state of disrepair, or even partially ruined
(which is made worse as the much needed funds for ren-
ovation are blocked due to the dam project), although
all are intact—and beautiful—enough as to allow you to
imagine what they were like back in the day.
Tigris River as seen from the citadel high above the cliffs, with
the ruins of ancient bridge backed by the modern one • Old bridge. Built in 1116 by Artuqid ruler Fahret-
tin Karaaslan as a replacement of an older bridge,
Hasankeyf is a small village located along the banks of the bridge spanning the Tigris River is considered to
the Tigris River in southeastern Turkey. be the largest from the Medieval Period. Passage-
way of the bridge was made of wood so that it could
It has been settled for perhaps as long as three millennia,
be removed in case of an attack, and as a result, only
though most cliff dwellings are around 2,000 years old. It
two piers and some foundation work are all that ex-
was perhaps inhabited first by Assyrians and/or Urartians,
ist of the bridge today. The funny thing about the
and then most certainly by successive Roman, Byzantine,
bridge is, the intact watchtower of the bridge on the
Turkic, and Arabic dynasties.
opposite bank now serves as a room of an adjacent
The unfortunate thing about Hasankeyf is that it is slated house built later, complete with a small wooden door
to be inundated upon the completion of a dam project that on what was the main gate, opening to part of the
has been in the works for a couple decades now. passageway, which in turn serves as the balcony!
• Citadel (signposted Kale at the main highway

22.1 Get in through the town). This structure sits 100m above
the Tigris River, overlooking Hasankeyf, with im-
pressive views over the old town and the river. The
Hasankeyf is far from the rest of Turkey, but one can citadel has likely been used as a dwelling place for
easily reach the city of Batman by bus or rail, and then centuries. Upon entering the castle area, you will
cover the remaining hour or so of travel by minibuses be advised (both by guides and signs) that a guide is
(dolmuş) offered by Hasankeyf town council (Hasankeyf necessary to visit the castle. This is not true, and if
Belediyesi). It costs 3 TL/person. It’s also possible you just walk past the guides will lose interest. The
to reach Hasankeyf by taking Batman-Midyat-Mardin troop of men clearing rubbish all seem to speak a
minibuses. little English and are more than happy to show you
secret places. Admission 3 TL pp.
22.2 Get around • Small Palace. This palace was built by the Ayyu-
bids and overlooks Hasankeyf as it sits on a cliff.
80
22.5. BUY 81
• Ulu Mosque (Ulu Camii, literally “Great Mosque”). also carved into the cliffs and numerous ancient cemeter-
Built by the Ayyubids in 1325, on the top of a ies exist throughout the area as well.
church’s remains. The great thing about Hasankeyf is that the lack of West-
ern tourists — and pretty much anyone at all — really
• Great Palace. The palace was built by the Artuqids makes you feel that you're pretty off-the-beaten track.
and has an associated rectangular tower that may Find a local guide to take you on some of the trails carved
have been a watchtower. into the rock with beautiful views of the valley.
• El Rizk Mosque. The Mosque was built in 1409

by the Ayyubid Sultan Süleyman and stands on the 22.5 Buy
bank of the Tigris River. The mosque also has a
minaret that has remained intact.
22.6 Eat
• Süleyman Mosque. This mosque was built by Sul-
tan Süleyman and is all but destroyed except for a There are a couple of places to eat in town, offering typ-
minaret. Süleyman’s grave is missing from the site ical Turkish fare and good prices.
as well.
• Koc Mosque. The mosque is located east of the 22.7 Drink

Süleyman Mosque and was likely built by the Ayyu-
bids.
A glass of Turkish tea costs 0.50 TL at the open-air vil-
lage coffeehouse by the new (highway) bridge.
• Kizlar Mosque. Located east of the Koc Mosque,
the Kizlar Mosque was also likely from the Ayyubid
period as well. The section of the structure which
is used as a mosque today was a mausoleum in the 22.8 Sleep
past, containing grave remnants.
As far as sleeping options are concerned, there are two
• Imam Abdullah Tomb. The tomb lies west of the hotels along the river and the prices are reasonable but
new bridge in Hasankeyf and it the tomb of Imam not as cheap as other similar quality hotels in this region
Abdullah. Abdullah was the grandson of Jafar at- of the country.
Tayyar, uncle of the prophet Mohammad. An epi-
taph on the tomb states that the tomb was restored • Hasankeyf Motel (just east of modern highway
in the Ayyubid period. bridge), ☎ +90 488 381-20-05. The rooms are clean
and some even have small balconies overlooking the
• Zeynel Bey Mausoleum. Named after Zeynel Bey, Tigris River. Shared bathrooms and one Turkish toi-
this mausoleum is on the less-built opposite (north- let.
ern) banks of the river (and as such easily distin-
guishable from the surroundings), with its outside • Hasbahçe Hasankeyf, ☎ +90 488 381-26-74.
covered with charming blue mosaics of geometrical Newly opened guesthouse with wireless internet ac-
designs and calligraphy, although somewhat worn cess. Serves a delicious Turkish breakfast of fresh
out. Bey was the son of Uzun Hassan, the ruler of bread, homemade fig jam, feta cheese, olives and
the Akkoyunlu Dynasty which ruled over Hasankeyf eggs. Spacious shower room available as well as
in the 15th century. bathroom with Turkish and European style toilet.
You might have to ask for a sheet to cover yourself.
It is not automatically provided.
22.4 Do
It’s also possible—and legal according to military po-
Aside from the spectacular heritage sites, thousands of lices at the checkpoint on the road from Mardin—to wild
caves exist in the cliffs that surround the city with old camp on the banks of Tigris. The northern bank (the one
shepherd paths through narrow side canyons and along the on which the village is not located) seems to be more dis-
tops of towering limestone cliffs. Many of the caves are creet, quiter, greener (like a finely mown patch of lawn),
multi-storied and water-supplied. Until the 1970s many and has better views (of the ruins). If it’s weekend, to
families still lived in the ancient cliff dwellings (sign- avoid some (excessive) attention, just wait for the evening
posted Mağaralar) along the river, but now there aren't to arrive, so the local daytrippers from Batman leaves
more than a few inhabitants. Churches and mosques were the place, to erect your tent. Also take usual precautions
82 CHAPTER 22. HASANKEYF
against scorpions — don't leave your tents and bags un-

zipped, check your footwear before wearing them, don't
remove rocks, and don't wander out of grass/humid areas
at night.
If you go for a meal at one of the restaurants on stilts
on the southern bank you are allowed to spend the night
on the comfortable mattresses with the soothing sound
of the river. (Inform yourself about meal prices before
you order. Menus are not necessarily available.) Toilet
facilities are scarce, though. There seems to be only one
mobile Turkish toilet serving the several restaurants down
there.
22.9 Stay safe

While you will see locals taking a dip in the river in sum-
mer, it is better to be on the safe side and save your ea-
gerness for somewhere else. The riverbed is deeper and
the current is stronger than they appear in the first glance,
and indeed a number of lives is lost to the river every year
in this very place.
22.10 Go next
Dolmuşes to Batman to north and Midyat to south leave
every hour on the half hour. 5 TL to Batman, 8 TL to
Midyat.
Chapter 23
Hilvan
Hilvan is a town north of Urfa in Southeastern Anatolia, 23.9 Sleep

Turkey.
23.10 Connect
23.1 Understand
23.11 Go next
While there are burial mounds in the countryside around
Hilvan (for example, in the village of Balki), there
have not been any archaeological researches yet, and as
such, ancient history of the town remains unclear. The
recorded history of the place starts with 19th century,
when Hilvan was settled by a nomadic tribe.
Currently, Hilvan is home of about 38,500 people.
23.2 Get in
The town is between Sanliurfa (55 km) and Diyarbakir.
23.3 Get around
23.4 See
23.5 Do
Lots of vineyards around the town give good opportuni-
ties to visit.
23.6 Buy
23.7 Eat
Town is famous for its Lahmacun (Kurdish Pizza) and
various kebaps.
23.8 Drink
83
Chapter 24
Kahramanmaras
Kahramanmaraş, which used to be known as Maraş in 24.3 Get around

the past, is a city in Turkey, located on the crossroad of
southern, eastern and southeastern Turkey. In the city of Kahramanmaras you can travel with the dol-
mus minibuses (Fare:1.25 TL), public urban buses (Halk
otobüsü) (Fare: 1.15 TL) or taxi.
24.1 Understand
Kahramanmaraş is the capital city of Kahramanmaraş

24.4 See
Province in southeastern Turkey. The city lies on a plain
at the foot of the Taurus Mountains and has a population • The Castle Of Kahramanmaras
of 400,100 as of 2010. The region is best known for its
production of salep, a flour made from dried orchid tu- • The Covered Bazaar of Kahramanmaras
bers, and its distinctive ice cream.
• Pinarbasi
• Ulu Mosque
24.2 Get in
• Kahramanmaras Zoo - Hanefi Mahcicek Ave.
24.2.1 By plane Ungut/Kahramanmaras
Turkish Airlines operates daily direct flights from • Eshab-ı Kehf (Seven Sleepers) -
Istanbul, and Anadolu Jet operates direct flights from Afşin/Kahramanmaras
Ankara.
• Taş Medrese — An Islamic center of learning close
to Ulu Mosque
24.2.2 By train • Dongel Caves — Kahramanmaras - Kayseri road

(57km) Tekir/Kahramanmaras
Toros Express in Istanbul, Eskisehir, Afyon, Konya, and
Adana formerly ran to Gaziantep and Maraş, but service • Kahramanmaras Museum on Azerbaycan Blv.
east of Adana has been suspended indefinitely. — a small archaeological museum containing a di-
verse array of artifacts, most notably including a
large Hittite collection.
24.2.3 By car
Adana - 2 Hours (230km) Gaziantep - 55 minutes 24.5 Do

(80km)
• Walk around at Trabzon Ave.
24.2.4 By bus • Covered Bazaar: A must see. A big bazaar, where

you can buy clothes, presents etc. There are also a
Available from every city in Turkey lot of lounges where you can sit.
84
24.10. STAY SAFE 85
24.6 Buy 24.9.2 Mid-range

Buyuk Kahramanmaras Oteli (Trabzon Ave.)
24.7 Eat Hotel Belli (Trabzon Ave.)
Soups Tarhana, Eşkili Soup, Döğmeli Mercimekli Soup,

Yoğurtlu Döğmeli Soup and Maraş Paçası 24.9.3 Splurge
Koftes(Burgers)
Ramada Hotel (4*) (Hanefi Mahcicek Ave. No:286
Simit Köftesi, Kısır Köftesi, Içli Köfte, Sömelek Köfte, Ungut/Kahramanmaras) []
Suluyağlı Köfte, Eşkili Köfte, Yoğurtlu Köfte, Yavan
köfte, Eşkili Aya Köftesi. Arsan Hotel (4*) (South Highway - Gaziantep Highway
Arsancenter Kahramanmaras) []
Kebabs
Ice Cream - In Yasar Patiserie Trabzon Ave.
Baklava 24.10 Stay safe
Kahramanmaras is potentially one of the safest cities in
24.7.1 Budget Turkey for its size. There are no slums or districts you
should avoid. In general, you can visit any part of the city
Cinaralti Kebab (Azerbaycan Ave.) at any time of the day without taking many risks — just
Cumhuriyet Lokantasi (Covered Bazaar) use your common sense. At night, though, it is wise to
avoid parks, as well as the area within and around Ulu
Antepli Lahmacun (Binevler/Kahramanmaras) Mosque and Castle. The drug scene at Castle hangs out
there during the day, but they do not care at all about
tourists. Just ignore them and they will ignore you.
24.7.2 Mid-range
Selale Park Café (Trabzon Ave.)

24.11 Go next
Kasap Ibrahim (Hukumet Ave.)
Kucuk Ev Kebab (Trabzon Ave.) • Andirin
Yenisehir Lokantasi (Trabzon Ave.) • Baskonus
Turaç (Sait Zaifoglu Ave. Orman St. No: 101) • Yesilgoz
• Tekir
24.7.3 Splurge
• Dongel Caves
Sezal Restaurant (Hanefi Mahcicek Ave. near Kahra-
manmaras Zoo)
24.8 Drink
• The open-air café at Selale Park is good for a re-
lief and some shade while watching the city during
a summer day.
• All Patiseries and Cafe’s in Trabzon Ave. are attrac-

tive.
24.9 Sleep
24.9.1 Budget
Arıkan Oteli (Azerbaycan Ave.)
Chapter 25
Kahta
The nearest airport is in Adıyaman, about 15 km away,

which has connections from many cities in Turkey.
AnadoluJet, which is sub division of Turkish Airlines flies
from Ankara ESB International Airport to Adıyaman on
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Flights depart at
6:55PM and arrive at 8:05PM to Adıyaman.
There are five bus companies serving Kahta from many
cities in Turkey.
25.2 Get around

You can walk pretty much everywhere in town.
25.3 See
25.4 Do
• Visit Black Bird Hill (Karakuş Tepesi), the Roman
Bridge, Arsemia.
• Watch sunset and sunrise on Mt Nemrut.
Mount Nemrut Statues
Kahta is a town in Southeastern Anatolia. 25.5 Buy

Kahta, on lake of Atatürk Dam is a good base to explore
the area and Mount Nemrut from, although there’s not 25.6 Eat
a lot of life in the town itself.
Indeed Kahta should be the main base for visiting Nem- There are plenty of good options for Southeastern Ana-
rut. There is also another way to Nemrut from Malatya. tolian food. You may try Papatya Restaurant int the
However the trip from Kahta to Nemrut will include a city center for kebab and other red meat/chicken food.
sightseeing of Karakuş Hill, Arsemia Castle, and ancient However do not forget to eat fish at the restaurants in the
Kahta Castle. All of these attractions are included in the shore of the Atatürk Dam (Baraj as called in Kahta). Es-
National Park. Hence, a visit to Nemrut is shorter and pecially Zeynel'in Yeri is good choice. Fish from the
more valuable if done from Kahta. dam itself and from Kahta river should be tried. Yayın (a
fatty freshwater fish) and Sarıgöz are pretty delicious fish.
These restaurants also serve alcoholic drinks, including
raki which is a good company with fish.
25.1 Get in
There are frequent dolmuş services from Adıyaman, 25.7 Drink

which depart every 15 minutes until around 22:00 (3 TL).
86
25.10. GO NEXT 87
25.8 Sleep 25.10 Go next

Plenty of accommodation, but don't trust the hotel man- 25.10.1 Mount Nemrut (Nemrut dagi)
agers. Ask around at different offices about the tours to
Nemrut, and at the bus station about getting out of town
once you're done.
• Zeus Hotel - 4 star hotel.

• Hotel Nemrut - 4 star hotel.
• Kommagene Wooden Hotel The Hotel Website -
. The old Kommagene Hotel is demolished and the
owner ( Emin) turned it to a Wooden House.
There are single rooms 70 tl per person, Double Rooms

120 tl per room, Triple Rooms 160 tl per room. Phone
Number of Hotel manager is " phone="+90 532 200 38
56 ask for irfan . " email="admin@nemruttours.info The
hotel has also camping site, 10 tl per caravan,10 tl per
tent that includes electricity, shower and toilet. The Hotel
runs tours from Kahta to Nemrut everyday for 125 tl per
person, includes long nemrut tours + accommodation +
breakfasts. The hotel runs also daily urfa harran tours for
110 tl per person.
• Karadut Pension (12 km from the top of the moun-

tain, in a small village named Karadut), ☎ +90 416
725 97 26 (ask for the Bayram (the owner)). This is
a really nice pension. The staff is very friendly and
the food is excellent. Dinner 10 TL. There are great
hikes you can do around the mountain side. Tour
around the area + sunset at the top 50 TL per per- Mount Nemrut: Head from statue
son. They will drive you up to Nemrut for 40 lira
per car. The Mount Nemrut tomb-sanctuary was probably built
for king Antiochus Theos of Kommagene who believed
Camping costs 5-10tl. Kitchen is usable. [Personal Expe- he was a descendant of Apollo, in the first part of the first
rience: Owners pushed a bit to write good reviews, make century BC. The main feature is a tumulus (tomb hill)
advertisement and even to get on the street to talk to other about 50 meters high, underneath which it is thought, the
travellers, besides from that they're nice and prices are tomb itself is located. It is also thought that it will be as
reasonable.] 30 TL/bed/night and includes breakfast. rich as any of the tombs of Egypt.
However, you have to be prepared to get up early (at about
2.30) if you want to see the sunrise. It’s quite a distance
25.9 Stay safe from the mountain and it’s best if you have your own
transport or arrange a guided tour.
A common scam in the town is that the hotel managers Around the Tumulus are two main terraces; the big east-
may give incorrect information about bus schedules to ern terrace, and the smaller western terrace. These might
make travelers stay at their hotels longer. Double-check have been used for religious and other ceremonies due to
with the bus companies yourself. the astronomical and religious nature of the monument.
Having said that, though, Kahta is a fairly safe area. You A bas-relief has been found on the western terrace of a
can just go out, take a walk to Atatürk Dam, have a very lion and the planets Mars, Jupiter and Mercury as they
nice dinner in fish restaurants just next to the dam, and would have been on July 7, 62 BCE, the possible starting
enjoy the cool air in the night. date of the complex' construction.
Some travellers report being misled by the local Big seated statues, 8 to 9 meters high of Antiochus him-
tourist/information office, so if you're concerned about self, Hercules, Zeus-Orosmasdes (associated with the
this possibility, try to cross-check information or advice Persian god Ahura-Mazda) and a few other Greek and
they give you. Persian deieties along with two lions and two eagles, line
88 CHAPTER 25. KAHTA
these terraces. Since their erection, the heads have top-

peled from the bodies which remain at their original po-
sitions and lay scattered throughout the site. In more re-
cent times they have been put back at their assumed orig-
inal positions (albeit without the bodies) so they can once
again face the sunrise and sunset. The arrangement of the
statues (or in this case heads) is known as a hierothesion.
Currently, restoration work is being done on the statues
which will continue until at least 2010. There are also
plans to move at least some of the monuments to a mu-
seum.
The Summit is 2150 meter above sea level and provides a
great view of the surrounding mountains and even Ataturk
lake. The main attraction is to watch the sunrise from the
eastern terrace which give the bodyless heads a beautiful
orange hue and adds to the sense of mystery of the place.
If going up Nemrut to see the sunrise, bring warm cloth-
ing with you because it can get cold up there (even in
summer) since the summit is at about 2150 meters.
Transport: There ara tours from Kahta that is running to
Nemrut Everyday. You can contact to the Mezopotamya
Travel +90 416 725 97 26 / +90 532 200 38 56 for the
tours. You can take only Tour for 75 Tl per person or
125 tl that is also including breakfast and accommoda-
tion in kahta.The tours take you first Karakuş Tumulus,
Cendere Bridge, Old Kahta Castle, Arsemi and Nemrut.
It takes usually whole day and you can watch sun set or
sun rise during the tour. OR You can get with a dolmuş
from Kahta at least to the village of Karadut and maybe a
bit more up. From there it’s still a 12 km walk up, which
you can try to hitchhike. The owner of the Karadut Pen-
sion might also hang around at the bus station and offer
to take you for 5 TL.
Another way to get to Karadut is to walk to the other
otogar, taking the dolmus to “Gargar” and asking to get
dropped off in Karadut. It runs about once an hour,
maybe once every two hours.
Climate: Till April there’s still snow, so you can't see the
statues fully. Before April the roads might be blocked.
Chapter 26
Mardin
Mardin is a historical city in Southeastern Anatolia, side (and that possibly explains why it is omitted from
Turkey. A city situated on the top of a hill, it is known most of the guidebooks to the area), Mardin has recently
for its fascinating architecture consisting of heavily deco- started to catch up with tourism (still don't expect hordes
rated stonework cascading from the hilltop, although oc- of package tourists, for sure), and rewards the intrepid
casionally pierced by new, ugly construction. traveller who took the effort to go there with a sense of
discovery, along with plenty of beautiful architecture and
vistas.
26.1 Understand
26.1.1 Orientation
The main street of old city, which traverses the town from
one end to another through its centre, is called 1. Cadde
or Cumhuriyet Caddesi for part of its route. At the east-
ern end of the old town, it makes a sharp U-turn, and runs
along the entire southern edge of city, making another U-
turn at the western end of the town and thus completing
a loop.
While the maps and aerial photos of old city may look like
a labyrinth, it is pretty hard to get lost in narrow alleys—
depending on which side of main drag you are on, take
downhill or uphill alleys you will come across one by one
in a succession, and within 15 minutes at most, you will
be back at main street.
The hilltop citadel and part of old city of Mardin
The main avenue of the physically almost totally sepa-
Mardin lies at the heart of homeland of Syriacs rated northern suburb of Yenişehir is Vali Ozan Bulvarı,
(Süryaniler), an ancient people who trace their origin to which eventually turns into the street zigzaging on the side
Akkadian Empire, established in Mesopotamia around of the hill while climbing up to old city. You will possibly
2200 BC. Syriac is a Semitic language directly related to not spend too much time in Yenişehir (unless you chose
the native tongue of Jesus Christ, Aramaic. Syriac Ortho- to stay at one of the hotels there), but whether coming
doxy was established after the first division in Christianity in from west (Urfa) or northwest (Diyarbakır), Vali Ozan
in 431, much earlier than the Great Schism of 11th cen- will be the first road you will set foot in Mardin.
tury between the churches of Rome and Constantinople.
While the Syriac population in Mardin dwindled due to
emigration (nowadays Assyrians are more numerous in 26.2 Get in
Sweden than in all of Turkey), they are still very much
present in the city, along with more or less all other re- Although there are roads leading to city from roughly all
gional cultures, including Turks, Kurds, and Arabs. cardinal directions, your most likely point of entry to city
Mardin served as the capital of Turkic Artuqid dynasty will be Urfa. Upon getting close to Mardin, the hilltop old
between 12th and 15th centuries, which resulted in much city will greet you from a distance, and as you get closer,
of the Islamic heritage (madrasahs and mosques) visible the road will swing north, and will eventually lead to the
in the city today. modern suburb of Yenişehir, at the other side of the hill
Unofficially closed to tourism throughout 90’s due to long of old city.
lasting Turkey-PKK conflict in the surrounding country- There are buses from Urfa, which take around 4 hours
89
90 CHAPTER 26. MARDIN
and cost 25 TL. Minibuses (dolmuş) from Diyarbakır take • Zinciriye Medresesi (on the hill towards the citadel;
2 hours and cost 9 TL. look for the sign on the main street). A madrasah
Although there is a small train station just south of the (Islamic school) built by the Artuqids, rulers of the
city, it’s currently not used and the nearest cities with a area then, in 1385. Rooms surrounding the cen-
regular train connection—as far as passenger trains are tral courtyard have some beautiful wall and ceil-
concerned at least—to the rest of the country is Gaziantep ing decorations, having similarities with Seljuq art
to west and Batman to north. of central Turkey. Definitely a must-see while in
Mardin. Free.
The city is connected to the surrounding region with well-
paved highways, except for a 100-km section east of Urfa
• Citadel (Kale) (on the hill overlooking the old city).
which is full of potholes.
While the citadel itself is located inside military
Hitchhiking from Urfa (the ride itself should take around zone and thus is closed for visitors, ascent the alleys
two and a half to three hours) is very easy, thanks to the of the old city to get to as near as possible to have the
hospitality of the local people. fascinating view of the Mesopotamian plains lying
below. However, never ever try to cross the heav-
ily barbed wire, as it equals to suicide according to
26.3 Get around locals.
Blue minibuses (dolmuş) connect the Yenişehir suburb

(lit. “New City”, newer and lower suburb at the entrance 26.5 Do
of the city) with the old city (Eski Mardin). They cost
0.90 TL/person. The steep road between new and old • Walk the alleys of old city to grab more of local at-
cities might be taken in 30–40 minutes on foot, however mosphere and architecture.
it will be a very demanding walk for sure, especially dur-
ing the peak of summer heat. • Watch the Mesopotamian plains everywhere you can
Old city is small enough to be negotiated on foot, with the grip a good sight. The plains look as if lying flat till
distance between one end to another not exceeding half the end of the world.
an hour on the main street. And you will certainly not
• Enjoy one of the closest shaves in the Middle East.
find any vehicle of any kind on twisty and staired narrow
There are several small barber shops along the main
alleys.
street through the old city centre. Most offers in-
clude double shaving, head massage, a good conver-
sation and of course a cup of tea. Though be wary
26.4 See of those that will try to rip you off—the first barber-
shop on the uphill street from the main square will
ask 20 TL for the service, which is a totally unac-
ceptable price in this part of the world.
• There is a traditional hamam (bathhouse) in town,

along the main street in the old town. Not sure if
it is still popular with locals or if it is taken over by
tourists, someone should visit this and update this
listing with prices!
26.6 Buy
Several banks have branches on the main street of old city,
complete with ATMs on the exterior walls.
Cityscape of old city There is a big-box type store (Migros) in Yenişehir, right
at the beginning of the ascent towards the old city.
All sights of Mardin are located in old city. Stores in old city are closed by 9-10PM (even those few
that are offering alcoholic beverages, which are typically
• Church of Forties (Kırklar Kilisesi) (in a side alley; open till late at night in western Turkey), so make sure
look for the small sign on the main street). A Syriac you have enough supplies of snacks and drinks (especially
Orthodox church dating back to 10th century. water!) for the night.
26.10. STAY SAFE 91
• Colourful keffiyehs (locally known as poşi) can be a months the temperature can drop a fair bit below
good buy while in Mardin. There is a store on the 10° in the rooms and the light covers are not suffi-
main street of old city where you can get 4 scarves cient. Rooms facing the street has a lovely view of
for 10 TL. The red, yellow, and green kuffiya is the minaret across the street. One of the cheapest
the traditional and politically loaded colors of the places to stay in Mardin with a very central location
PKK/Kurdish, and will get you lots of friends in the in the old town. If you sleep on the roof (teras), you
Kurdish areas (but don't wear it in the Turkish ar- should keep your things locked in the shed so that
eas). roaming kids aren't tempted to take anything. 25
TL/person. 20 TL/person (haggling down to 18 TL
is possible) for open air bed on the roof.
26.7 Eat
• Bilen Otel, Vali Ozan Caddesi 72, Yenişehir (at the
• Damak Sofrasi (If you are staying at Bashak Hotel, entrance of the city), ☎ +90 482 212-55-68, fax:
turn right coming out and it will be not far down the +90 482 212-25-75, e-mail: info@bilenhotel.com.
main street in the old town on the left side.). Great A three-star hotel mostly getting good reviews, al-
cafeteria-style dishes for good prices, ranging from though some of the rooms are in need of a ren-
5-8 TL per dish. They don't mind how long you ovation. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, satellite
stay for tea afterwards. The owner is jovial and will TV, and central heating. The downside of the ho-
probably sit down and talk with you. Good sweet tel is that it’s located in Yenişehir suburb, i.e. not in
couscous desert. Breakfast of lentil soup for 3 TL. the old city. 60 TL single including a not-so-good
5-8 TL per dish. breakfast.
26.8 Drink • Hilton Garden Inn, Barış Caddesi 29 Sokak No:

34, Yenişehir, ☎ +90 482 213-96-00, fax: +90
Local tap water is far too chalky to be tasty and may be 482 213-60-00. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 1PM.
unsafe to drink. Buy bottled water instead. Rooms with internet access and LCD TV. Free
carpark. 110 TL.
• Mezopotamya Cay Bahcesi (on the main street, to-
wards the end of the city, next to a mosque). Open till
late (midnight?). An open-air tea garden shaded by
trees with a good view of the Mesopotamian plains
26.10 Stay safe
below (though not as wide as you can see near the
citadel because of a neighbouring building). 0.50 The safety situation has been vastly improved since 90’s,
TL for a glass of tea. and Mardin, as well as the surrounding area, seems to
be a very safe place with an (overly) heavy presence of
policemen in old city.
26.9 Sleep
Booking in summer months, especially at weekends, is
important since Mardin attracts more and more travellers
26.11 Connect
day by day but there are not lots of places to stay.
Mardin’s telephone code is (+90) 482.
• Basak Hotel, Cumhuriyet Cad. Kışla Sok. 2 (on
the main street of old city, about 5 min of walk
away from the main square), ☎ +90 482 212-62-
26.11.1 Internet
46. The rooms have mildew on the ceiling, which
causes an awful smell that cannot be removed with
opened windows. They also have a fan, a TV and a • Kültür Internet, Cumhuriyet Caddesi (on the main
heating that is not working during the night. The street). Internet cafe. 1 TL/hour.
shared bathrooms are not so clean (read “dirty”),
with showers providing water that can be described
as “warm” at best (in summer). Check the windows There are also a couple more internet cafes on the main
first—to see if the crank is not broken—before de- street of old city.
ciding which room to stay, because it is almost im- There is a tourism information office (Turizm İrtibat
possible to sleep without an open window in sum- Bürosu) on the main square of old city, run by students
mer months, even when the fan is on. In winter of a local high school. They also offer free internet.
92 CHAPTER 26. MARDIN
26.12 Go next way). If you wear a Kurdish kuffiya, you won't have any
problems finding a ride and plenty of goodwill.
• Deyrulzafaran Monastery (Deyrulzafaran Man-
astırı; known as Mor Hananyo in Syriac), lying
5 km east of Mardin on a hillside overlooking the
plains, is a large and intact monastic community.
Built on the site of a 4500-year-old pagan temple
dedicated to solar worship (Güneş tapınağı, a gallery
made of huge rock walls with no use of mortar; still
intact and visitable at the underground floors of the
monastery) in 5th century, Deyrulzafaran was the
seat of patriarchate of all Syriac Orthodoxy until
1932. True to its original purpose, the monastery
has 365 rooms in total, each symbolizing a day the
Earth spends on its full cycle around the Sun. The
impressive complex—which is more like a small vil-
lage than a stand-alone religious edifice—is open
(and indeed, friendly) to visitors (except, of course,
its residential and the most sacred sections that are
closed to all but monks; a young host will guide you
through the open sections in groups, so you may have
to wait in the café at the entrance until he returns the
preceding group), but as this is actually a religious
site, and not a simple tourist sight, respectful cloth-
ing (cover your legs and arms; in addition to your
head if you are female) is a must. Eating, smoking,
speaking loudly, and chattering on a cell phone are
also out. (, ☎ +90 482 219-30-82, fax: +90 482
219-30-85, e-mail: info@deyrulzafaran.org. Visit-
ing hours: 9AM-noon, 1AM-5PM. )
• Midyat, about 40 min by minibus to north is also

known for its stonework architecture, with even
more ornaments than Mardin’s.
• Hasankeyf further north on the banks of Tigris River

is a fantastic village with its cave houses, citadel, and
other monuments from Middle Age. You'd better
hurry on visiting the place as the whole town might
be submerged in as near future as 2013 due to a (yet-
to-have-a-final-decision) dam project.
• Beyazsu, or Avaspi in Kurdish (both meaning

“white water”), is about one hour away from Mardin
on the highway between Midyat and Nusaybin with
waterfalls and some greenery, something of a mir-
acle in this arid region, where locals like to visit at
weekends.
26.12.1 Hitchhiking
If you are hitchhiking toward Urfa, it will be easiest to

take an inexpensive dolmus/minibus from the Mardin
otogar/bus station to Kiziltepe, a town just south of
Mardin. The bus station in Kiziltepe is right near the
dusty highway toward Urfa. You may have to walk a bit
to get out of town, or just start flagging and try to get a
ride to the edge of town (if the ride isn't going the whole
Chapter 27
Siirt
Siirt is a city in Southeastern Anatolia. 27.10 Connect
27.11 Go next
27.1 Understand
Siirt has a mixed population of Kurds, Turks, and local
Arabs, the latter of whom speak a dialect that is incom-
prehensible to Arabs from elsewhere.
27.2 Get in
Siirt is not far from Diyarbakır, the largest city of South-
eastern Anatolia and lying 187 km west of Siirt.
27.3 Get around
27.4 See
27.5 Do
27.6 Buy
• Bıttım soap (Bıttım sabunu) made of oil of local va-
riety of pistachios, with its mossy scent and brigt
green colour, is unique to the city. It’s best to buy
it from reputable places as some home-made soaps
can turn out to be not properly produced (with an
excess of lye), so can heavily dry and irritate your
skin.
27.7 Eat
27.8 Drink
27.9 Sleep
93
Chapter 28
Urfa
Urfa (also Şanlıurfa, formerly Edessa) is a city in 28.2.1 By bus

Southeastern Anatolia, and the provincial capital of Şan-
lıurfa Province. The modern city of Urfa is situated about Buses connect to most big and regional cities, such as
eighty kilometers east of the Euphrates River. It has a Gaziantep to west and Mardin to east (both routes take
rapidly growing population. around 4 hours, and cost 25 TL). Free transfers to and
from the bus station provide by some accommodation
Urfa has many excellent old buildings and plenty of con-
choices. The bus station (otogar) is outside of the city
nections with the Old Testament and Islamic tradition.
center. There is a bus running from the main bus station
The general atmosphere and feel of the city is abso-
in the center to the otogar, which takes about 30 minutes
lutely Middle Eastern, with all those traditional yellow
exit the otogar and take any bus running to the left that
stone, arched architecture, people (ladies and gentlemen
goes to “belediye” (1TL). From here either take bus R1
alike) in Middle-East dresses, and so on... When coming
(0.50TL) to the Bazaar, or walk down Ataturk Blvd to the
from West, you'll certainly feel like you are entering the
Bazaar. A taxi costs about 20 TL.
Eastern world right in this place. People are extremely
friendly, and the bazaar is great.
28.2.2 By plane
28.1 Understand Three flights a day into and out of Sanliurfa’s new air-
port: two Istanbul and one Ankara flight. Reasonably
priced transfers from and to the airport with the Havas bus
service. Some accommodation choices also provide free
airport transfers since the airport is out of town. Flights
available from Turkish Airlines: www.thy.com
28.3 Get around

The city has a network of minibus lines, although all
sights are located in the easily walkable compact old town.
28.4 See
Skyline of Urfa
• Cave of Abraham. Urfa is supposedly the birth-
Since 1984, Urfa is officially renamed as Şanlıurfa (i.e. place of Abraham (called Ibrahim in Arabic, he was
“Glorious Urfa”), which is how it is shown on maps and an important prophet) and henceforth an important
highway signs. Şanlıurfa is usually abbreviated to Ş.Urfa Islamic place of pilgrimage. Around the site of the
on non-official signs, such as those on buses or restaurants. cave are a number of mosques built around a park
However, colloquially and locally, the city is still almost with water features. One of these mosques, the
always referred to Urfa. Halil-ur-Rahman has a pool (called the Balikligöl)
occupied by a rather large number of holy fish. It
is said that anyone who catches one of these will go
blind. That said the story behind the pool is quite in-
28.2 Get in teresting: The pool is at a site where Nemrut (there’s
a legend claiming him to be the builder of the tower
94
28.6. BUY 95
happen to feed one of the obviously rare white fishes,

your wish will come true in a short time. Feeds, which
are available from numerous vendors around the pond,
are regulated by the local environmental association—it’s
highly discouraged to use anything other than the desig-
nated feed—and the standard fare of a small box of feed
is 0.50 TL—don't pay anything more if the vendor tries
to rip you off.
Have a Narghile (hookah) at the lake in the park near the
mosques.
• Abraham’s Path. Sanliurfa is at the northern end

of the international trekking route, Abraham’s Path,
The pond of holy fish (Balıklıgöl) in the old city of Urfa which follows the footsteps of the Patriarch Abra-
ham throughout the Middle East. Walks from 1 to
of Babel) wanted to burn Abraham as a sacrifice. 10 days in length are possible from Sanliurfa. The
God however intervened and turned the pyre into Path in Sanliurfa joins together the sacred sites in
water and the coals into fish, thus saving Abraham. the area.
Legend also names it as the birthplace of Job.
• The atmospheric bazaar with its hustle and bustle is 28.6 Buy
quite charming, as is the old town.
As Urfa is both a conservative and hot place, headscarves
• The ancient ruined castle with newer walls dating are popular with both the city’s men and women. Par-
from around 814 AD on the rocky promontory at ticular to Urfa, is a shade of lavender with white embroi-
the south side of town. A lone column is just about dered or sequined patterns. The story goes that the Prime
all that remains of the older structure but the views Minister of Turkey from 1993-1996 wore a scarf in that
are spectacular. Almost mystical crimson and hazy style when she visited Urfa, and now all the women wear
sights from the terrace at the entrance of the castle them. They are worn by both men and women. They can
over the old city during the evening call to prayer is be found in the bazaar. Pay no more than 10TL per scarf.
hard to beat and well worth the effort the climb there,
Likewise, the patterned Pos(h)i scarves are both popular
even if the grounds of the castle is closed already.
and politically-charged purchases. They come in all man-
9AM-5PM. 3 TL.
ner of meaningless colours, however the Kurdish men
• Gobekli Tepe. Famed as the oldest temple in the wear those of black and white check, and the Arab men
world, Gobekli Tepe has changed the way that ar- the red and white ones.
chaeologists look at history. Its exisitence pre-dates
farming and settlements, and so it proves that man
had religion before he even lived in a village or a
town. Dated to 9000 BCE 28.7 Eat
Be careful with food hygiene as very many people suffer

28.5 Do stomach trouble in Urfa. Suspects include the water, the
ice cream and the kebabs. This only refers to summer
As it can get scorchingly hot during summer (40 degrees visits.
C or above), you'll be hard pressed to do anything during
the afternoon. In the park around which the mosques are Famous are the çiğ köfte or raw kebabs. In Winter they
you can wait for the midday heat to subside while enjoying are made with raw mince meat; in Summer they are made
ice tea or other cold drinks (though obviously: no beer or with fried egg. Definitely one of the most delicious dishes
alcoholics) before exploring the old town , the bazaar or of the area.
the mosques. That’s also the extent of what you can do Have a breakfast at the wonderful Zahter Kahvalti in
in the evening. Sit down, have a cold non-alcoholic drink Köprübasi Caddesi opposite the entrance of “Hotel Ipek
and play backgammon or just have a chat. Palace”.
Join the locals and make a wish while feeding the holy Urfa is famous for local pistachio desserts. You can find
fishes at the pond. According to the local belief, if you different versions in every bakery in the city center.
96 CHAPTER 28. URFA
28.8 Drink you are traveling in a small group. Negotiate a price

and have a nice party. The A/C is very effective.
As Urfa is a city of pilgrimage, beer or any other alcoholic Beds are a mixture of eastern style floor bedding and
beverage is near impossible to get. Apart from that you're western style divan beds. Low cost pick-ups can be
able to find any of the soft-drink brands sold in the rest arranged from the bus station or the airport. The
of Turkey or stick to Turkish or Arabian tea (which is owner wants to upgrade his guest house, so all sorts
sweeter or minted). of accommodation will be available. Make sure you
get the prices right 'before' you book! One of the
The section of Urfa just over the Karakoyun River houses more popular guide books on our planet quotes the
a few small, simple bars and the local Turkish beer Efes prices in lıra rather than in euro. This can be diffi-
can be purchased to take away from a very few small cult to sort out when you check out. The owner will
shops in that area. The few small bars are humble af- gladly arrange a taxi ride to the bus station for you
fairs, frequented by men and playing local Kurdish and which will cost you about 20 TL. The bus stop for
Turkish music. minibuses is, however, only 10 minutes away and the
Drink “murra” in the Gümrük Han - this is a very strong ride to the bus station costs you 1 TL.
1/2 teaspoon-sized cup of coffee. It is not overly pleasant,
but it is a local experience. The cushions in dorms are full of dust as well as the
carpets. People staying in a dorm share only one bath-
More welcoming to the palate is Menengic (menen-gich)
room which can be a problem in busy times. The school
coffee - this is made from a paste of coffee and Menengic
which is across the street is really noisy and you can be
beans, and gives the cup a sweet, nutty flavour.
sure it will wake you up every morning around 7. But
on the other hand you can see into the school courtyard
from one of the dorm rooms and watch the kids running
28.9 Sleep around. The owner might try to overcharge you (for ex-
ample, asking for 25 TL for a dorm bed, saying the prices
have changed, whereas it’s normally 20 TL). Even if this
28.9.1 Homestay
place is recommended in some guide books, it might be
nicer to try something on your own.
• Yuvacali Village Home Stays, Yuvacali Koyu,
Hilvan, Sanliurfa, ☎ 0090 533 7471850, e- The owner offers tours to Mt. Nemrut, Harran and
mail: alisontanik@nomadtoursturkey.com. Check- Göbekli Tepe. In case of Göbekli Tepe he may sell him-
in: flexible, check-out: flexible. It is possible (and self as a guide, which is really not worth the money. A
a good deal more interesting) to spend a night or four person tour may cost 120 TL. He has been known to
two in rural Sanliurfa, experiencing Kurdish hospi- initially ask for more than 200TL. Try getting a taxi or a
tality at its best. Founded in 2009, Yuvacali Vil- better tour. From 20 TL (€10; terrace dorms) to €37.
lage Home Stays offers visitors the chance to milk
sheep, learn how to make bread, and sleep under the • Beyzade Otel. Housed inside a historic mansion,
stars as locals do. Included in the stay is a compli- nice rooms of this hotel come with air-con, wi-fi,
mentary guided archaeological walk, and an orienta- and en-suite bathrooms. Double rooms for 35 TL
tion meeting detailing local customs, dress, history, without breakfast—make sure you have haggled for
and the responsible nature of the project. From €30 this price.
p.p..
• Pilgrim Guesthouse (Balıklıgöl Dergah ve Mis-
afirhanesi) (at the yard of the newer but traditional
28.9.2 Budget looking mosque at the Holy Pond). The cheapest and
most exotic, yet the most spartan accommodation in
• Aslan Guest House (Aslan Konuk Evi), 12 Eylül the city, the guesthouse, originally built for pilgrims
Caddesi (Demokrasi Cad.) 1351 Sok. No:10, to the town, is one of the few places in the coun-
☎ +90 414 215-15-75, +90-542-761-30-65 (mo- try still offering a feel for the caravanserai tradition
bile), e-mail: ozcan_aslan_teacher@hotmail.com. of the ancient Silk Road. You are provided with a
Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. This guest- straw mat, not-very-clean-looking but OK quilt and
house welcomes backpackers, and is set in an ele- pillows and pick your place at the colonnade sur-
gant nineteenth century Armenian craftsman built rounding the courtyard—as there will be few oth-
house. A variety of dorm style and private rooms ers staying, finding a place is not a problem. The
are available around a central courtyard and foun- place shuts its gate after the night prayer (which is
tain, which is typical of Middle Eastern architec- conducted roughly by 10PM in summer) and turns
ture. All rooms have A/C. The 'suite' has a double into a (rather overly) peaceful world—with Kurdish
bed in the bedroom and mattresses in the main room songs in a distance penetrating from the city that is
that could easily sleep another four people. (Ideal, if still alive through the night—so don't be late after
28.10. STAY SAFE 97
the dinner. As the place also serves as some sort of floor are cold, pending the installation of a solar hot
poorhouse, it’s best to leave your bags and all your water system.
valuables (such as cell phone) in the warden’s room
(mihmandar), located at the side of the colonnade, • UR-Edessa Konukevi, Yusufpaşa Mahallesi
for the night. There are basic bathrooms (with squat Sarayönü Caddesi 889 Sokak No:4 (opposite of the
type toilets, running water, and liquid soap) at the post office), ☎ +90 414 216-56-56. Check-in: flexi-
side, which are open through the night and are for ble, check-out: flexible. Housed in a mansion dating
free for patrons of the place (normally costing 0.50 back to 18th century. 105TL.
TL), as well as a free cold water dispenser. No mat-
ter how exotic it sounds, the morning prayer around
28.9.4 Splurge
6AM at the mosque next door can be a deterrent to
morning sleep, though, as it incorporates cymbals • Hilton Garden Inn, Karakoyunlu Mahallesi 11
and some high-volume singing, which is unusual for Nisan Fuar Caddesi (Located Next to the Old Bus
the rest of the country. 3 TL pp/night. Terminal), ☎ +90 414 318 50 00. A 4* Hilton Ho-
tel,offering a service of 5*. Such a fresh building
with quite comfortable rooms, adjustable softness
28.9.3 Mid-range for both bed and pillows. But you should keep on
your mind that the Hilton Garden Inns have no bell-
• Hotel Arte, Ataturk Bulvari No:7 (Just next to mu- boy and parking service, additionally the room ser-
nicipality building), ☎ +90 414 314 7060. Check-in: vice is not 24 hours.
12:00, check-out: 11:00. 33 individually designed
rooms offer amenities such as wi-fi internet connec-
tion, satellite TV, air-con, direct telephone, and hair-
dryer. 28.10 Stay safe
• Hotel Bakay, ☎ 0215 2689. Asfalt Cadessi 24, has Urfa seems to be a very safe city. There is a police sentry
aircon, tv, showers and a friendly staff though break- box in the Balıklıgöl/Pond area where you can report any
fast is a bit of a let-down. It’s also about 45 YTL for problems.
a double and 30 YTL for a single.
However, according to the local youngsters, there is a pos-
• Hotel Uğur, Köprübaşı Cad. No 3, Belediye sibly dangerous substance abuse going on around the gate
Karşısı (easy 500m walk from city center toward of the citadel on the hill after night falls, so better avoid
the Old Town), ☎ +90 414 313-13-40, e-mail: hanging around the stairs leading there at night.
musma63@yahoo.com. Check-in: anytime, check-
out: 11AM. All rooms have A/C, a TV, and Wi-Fi
access. In addition, the hotel also has laundry ser- 28.11 Go next
vice and a computer (wıth internet) for guest usage.
The owner, Mustafa, speaks four languages (Turk- • Go to Harran (about 40 km south; a dolmuş from
ish, English, Arabic, and Kurdish), and can organize otogar costs 5 TL), and see some reconstructed bee-
daily tours to destinations in the surrounding region hive huts, the remains of the oldest university, and
or in Syria. 20 TL (single room tv.a/c with share the remains of the trading “fortress” around which
bathroom / 35 TL (double with tv a/c with share they're situated. Interestingly the inhabitants have
bathroom ). mostly Iraqi descendents and identify themselves as
Arabs.
• Lizbon Guest House, ☎ 05353738926. Otogar Ba-
likli Göl yolu Yeni Mah. No: 1286 (Hotel Number
• Mardin, about 200 km to east, with its stonework
21). Sanliurfahostel.com. Free pick up from the
architecture and Syriac Orthodox churches is also
Otogar. A couple runs the guest house. There are
another interesting place to visit in the region.
2 rooms (5 beds in total. The family plans to build
one extra room. Terrace accommodation available
in summer. Homecooked Kurdish food (with beer • The Ataturk Dam to the north of the city is a huge
available). The owners are lovely; you will find no engineering project harnessing the waters of the
greater hospitality. Unfortunately, Aziz the owner, Euphrates and irrigating former semi-desert lands
will insist on being a guide to sites around Urfa, and around Urfa.
if refused, will become pushy and rude. This has
been somewhat problematic for some tourists look- • Göbekli Tepe is the oldest known temple in the
ing to explore unguided. The price for a single per- world dating from 9,000 B.C.E. Its sculpture is very
son is 25 TL (breakfast included), 35 TL (breakfast impressive, but the planned museum/tourist facil-
and dinner). Showers in the bathroom on the first ity isn't finished, and the archeological work is in
98 CHAPTER 28. URFA
progress, which means access may be restricted.

There is no public transport to the site, but you
can catch bus 90 (goes to the University) from
Belediye/local Otogar to the turn off (ask the driver
to let you off anywhere), and you can hitch the rest
of the way.
• Visit villages in the region and see rural life seem-

ingly almost unchanged since ancient times. Go to
Karacadag where it is still possible to see nomads
in their yurts, and from where wheat first originated
about 8,800 BCE
• Take an excursion to Nemrut, the mountain of gods,

or Diyarbakir, the largest city of the region also full
of history, both of which are within a day’s reach of
Urfa.
Chapter 29
Aegean Turkey
Temple of Athena overlooking the Aegean in Assos.
Aegean Turkey (Ege Bölgesi) is in Turkey. It occu-

pies the western part of the country, including the west-
ern coast (Aegean Sea coast) across from a wide arch of
Greek islands and some places more inland.
Travetines of Pamukkale
29.1 Regions
• Bergama — located near the ruins of the ancient city
• Central Aegean — Izmir and its vicinity with lots of of Pergamon
history and beautiful seaside towns • Bodrum — nice and trendy resort known for its cas-
• Northern Aegean — milder climate than the south tle and/or “foam parties”
with olive groves everywhere • Çeşme — town on the westernmost tip of Turkey
• Southern Aegean — crystal clear turquoise sea, ver- • Datça — unspoilt town with the nearby ancient city
dant citrus plantations of Knidos forming the boundary between Aegean
and Mediterranean
• Denizli — inland city serving as a hub to Roman
29.2 Cities sites such as Pamukkale, Hierapolis, Aphrodisias in
southeastern Aegean Region
• Izmir — Turkey’s third biggest city, and a beautiful
coastal one. Undeniably the capital of the region. • Kusadasi — a resort town with the citadel on an
island. Has a large harbour used by ships cruising
• Assos — pleasant village with preserved architec- around Mediterranean
ture and impressive Temple of Athena overlooking
the Aegean
• Ayvalik — a pleasant town in the north with dis- 29.3 Other destinations
tinctlively Greek/neo-classical architecture every-
where. • Aphrodisias — great ruins of an ancient city
99
100 CHAPTER 29. AEGEAN TURKEY
founded in honour of the goddess of love 29.6 Get in

• Dilek Peninsula National Park — perhaps the • Most of the tourism-oriented towns have direct bus
wildest stretch of land on the Turkish Aegean coast, services from many other important centres of the
with its lush forests, hiking trails, and desolate country, such as Istanbul.
beaches, this is a great get-away from concrete
sprawls of resorts • The major airports of this region are located in/near
Izmir, Bodrum, and Dalaman. All handle a number
• Ephesus — the best preserved of the ancient cities of international flights as well as much more frequent
in Turkey, Ephesus was once the capital of Roman domestic (national) flights.
province of Asia Minor
• Most large hotels, tour operators and car rental
• Pamukkale — the “cotton castle”, the white world companies located in the provinces of Izmir and
of travertines Bodrum.
• All major coastal towns have ferry links with the

• Sardis — the ruins of the capital of the Lydians, nearest Greek islands.
the inventors of “money”, backed by the craggy Mt.
Tmolos • Major hub of the region for rail transport is Izmir.
29.4 Understand 29.7 Get around
29.8 See
Şirince—a typical inland village of Aegean Turkey
Aegean coast of Turkey is lined by a succession of mod-

ern cities with palm-lined avenues and liberal attitudes,
towns with old quarters that are filled with elegant turn
of the 20th century neo-classical architecture, and ruins
of what were once major powers of the Mediterranean Library of Ephesus
in ancient times; all backed by fertile valleys and hills,
sides of which are dotted with picturesque villages and The Aegean is the region with the highest concentration
large oliveyards—which help to make Turkey one of the of ancient city ruins in Turkey, which should be no sur-
prise given that this was the heart of the Aeolian, Ionian,
biggest producers of olive oil in the world. It’s little won-
der that much of ancient art and philosophy—from Aris- Lydian, and Carian civilizations. Expect to come across
totle to Homer, many were citizens of cities along this with another set of ruins as close to each other as every
coast—was developed in this land of wine and honey, 10 or so kilometers. Some, such as Ephesus—which very
which has a favourable climate year round. possibly is the best preserved ancient city in all of the
Mediterranean basin, except for Pompeii—still exhibit
much of their former glory, while others may not seem
to be offering much more than a pile of collapsed mar-
29.5 Talk ble columns at first sight. In addition to Ephesus, other
likely contenders to be on the checklist of many trav-
Turkish is the native language in the region. But as ellers to the region include Assos, Pergamon, Miletus,
tourism is one of the main industries of this region, find- and Didyma, but some often overlooked sites such as
ing someone who can communicate in English or German Sardis, and Aphrodisias are also well worth a visit. Be-
to a lesser degree is generally not a problem. sides, as most of the still-inhabited cities and towns in
29.9. DO 101
the region are merely modern versions of ancient cities most never visited by tourists (except the handful seeking
(it’s hard to find a city younger than 3000 years old in the to see the Seven Churches). While Akhisar and Alaşe-
region after all), it’s always possible to see yet another hir’s Roman-era ruins are minimal compared Ephesus,
unexpected bit of ancient ruins, even in a city as modern- Pergamon, Sardis, or even Laodicea, these cities are still
looking as Izmir. interesting to visit, as they remain local farming centers,
When the fatigue from visiting one ancient city after an- with strikingly different feels.
other sets in, it might be time to look for medieval Seljuk All of these cities except for Pergamon can be reached (or
and Ottoman architecture that some of the Turkish re- the nearest city, no more than a 20 minute minibus ride
gions are known for. However, the scorched earth policy away can be reached), by train, however except for Selçuk
of the retreating Greek army in the final days of Greco- (Ephesus) and Denizli (Laodicea) the trains run only a
Turkish War of 1919-1922, or the War of Independence few times a day, and the schedules may be inconvenient.
as known in Turkey, left many Aegean towns in rubbles,
and the concrete-mania of the following decades didn't • Selçuk and Denizli can both be reached by the re-
certainly help either. Regardless, often unexplored in- gional Denizli-Izmir train. Minibuses, taxis, or a
land village of Birgi southeast of Izmir is one of the places long walk will be required to reach both sites from
that happily escaped such destruction, and its Çakıroğlu their associated cities.
Konağı, a three-storey mansion that is colourfully painted
inside-out is a rare treat for architecture enthisuasts. It • Sardis (Sart on the schedule) and Alaşehir can be
may also be possible to visit the odd mosque that dates reached by the regional Izmir-Uşak train. The train
back to the days of the Turkish frontier principalities station for Alaşehir is in the center of two, while the
(which rose to power after the central Seljuk authority location of Sart station seems to be slightly over a
vanished with the Mongol invasion in the 13th century), kilometer from the gymnasium complex.
which has a unique post-Seljuk, yet pre-Ottoman transi- • Akhisar can be reached by the either the 6 Eylül or
tionary style, one great example being İsa Bey Mosque 17 Eylül express between Izmir and Bandirma, each
in Selçuk. Fans of neo-classicism are luckier, as the of which runs only once a day. The station itself is
coastal towns that used to be inhabited by the Ottoman seven blocks, or about 400 meters, from the ruins.
Greeks and have been full of neo-classical buildings were
left intact—Ayvalık, Foça, Alaçatı, and Çeşme are the It is also possible to take buses or minibuses be-
towns that you should head to if this is what you are af- tween the cities. In Izmir, the buses run to each of
ter. these cities at intervals ranging from every half hour
So many years of wars and invasions mean that the castles (Bergama/Pergamon) to every two hours (Alaşehir). It’s
and citadels are an unmissable mark of the regional land- likely that buses between the other cities will be less fre-
scape. Those that are in Bodrum, Kuşadası, and Çeşme quent, so if you plan to make a loop around Izmir, ask at
quite form the symbol of their respective towns, while the the bus station when the buses to your next city run.
small picturesque castle of the coastal village of Çandarlı,
surrounded by a grassy park, is one of the main attractions
of the surrounding area. However, if you are looking 29.9 Do
for something really impressive and really off-the-beaten
path, head for Babakale (“the father castle”), which has With its long craggy coastline, finding somewhere for a
been proudly standing on the westernmost tip of Asian swim is rarely a daunting task in the region. As for the
mainland for centuries. related watersports, some towns are better suited to them
than some others; for example the waters of Alaçatı and
Bitez are known to be great for windsurfing.
29.8.1 Seven Churches of Asia
With the Mediterranean climate in charge, and the lati-
Aegean Turkey played a major role in the develop- tude being more southern than most of Europe, there is
ment of early Christianity, and of particular note are the not much room for wintersports in the region (in coastal
Seven Churches of Asia: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamon, locations, it only snows once, and lightly, every decade—
Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea. While the this is why the locals find the pictures of the amphitheatre
prophecies didn't refer to physical churches, and only of Ephesus under snow so magical and make them into
Pergamon, Ephesus, and Philadelphia have Roman-era postcards). While the snow-hungry residents of Izmir
churches remaining, all of these cities have ruins of some flock to the Mount Spylus near Manisa at every oppor-
kind, and Sardis has the ruins of a synagogue. Apart tunity to witness the snowfall, that particular mountain
from Izmir (Smyrna), which doesn't have much in the does not really receive that much as to let skiing or do-
way of Roman ruins, but is one of Turkey’s major cities, ing other snow-related sports. For these, it may be more
the most popular of these cities are Ephesus and Perga- worthwhile to head more inland to Mt. Bozdağ, or an-
mon, with Sardis and Laodicea coming in far behind, and cient Mount Tmolos between Salihli and Ödemiş, which,
Akhisar (Thyatira) and Alaşehir (Philadelphia) are al- with its mountain lake, is beautiful regardless the season.
102 CHAPTER 29. AEGEAN TURKEY
When it comes to thermal waters, the Aegean is less

known as a destination than some other Turkish regions.
Two especial places of note may be Ilıca, which has hot
springs discharging from the sea floor inside natural rocky
pools, and much more famous Pamukkale, which offers
the unique experience of swimming amidst toppled an-
cient columns lying at the bottom of a thermal water-filled
pool, which has been continuously in use for millennia.
29.10 Eat
29.11 Drink
While the viticulture is big business in the agricultural in-
terior of the region, most of the produce is of the Sultana
variety, which is not processed into wine, but rather ex-
ported as dried raisin. A number of towns around Denizli
has some level of fame for their red wines which often
have a strong flavour, while the village of Şirince is well-
known nationwide for its wines produced out of almost
just about any fruit that can be imagined.
One drink that is unique to the region is the sübye of Tire,
oddly made of melon seeds.
While some of the inland towns might be a little bit more
conservative than those on the coast, you are never too far
away from a bottle of Efes lager whenever you are thirsty
in the region.
29.12 Go next
If the sea, sun, and ancient cities here are not enough, why
not moving on southeast to Mediterranean Turkey?
Chapter 30
Central Aegean
Central Aegean is the central section of Aegean coast of 30.3 Other destinations
Turkey, including Izmir, the third biggest Turkish city,
and its vicinity.
30.1 Regions
30.2 Cities
• Izmir — Turkey’s 3rd largest city, undeniably cap-
ital of Aegean Region, with beautiful neighbour-
hoods and promenades on its waterfront
• Alaçatı — village with well preserved local stone ar-

chitecture, ancient windmills, and a cove perfect for
windsurfing
Library of Ephesus
• Alaşehir
• Akhisar — a lovely atmospheric city that contains

the ruins of Thyatira. • Ephesus — well-preserved ruins of Roman city
• Bergama — the ruins of old Pergamon, as well as a • Şirince — inland village close to Ephesus/Selçuk,
modern Turkish town. surrounded by olive- and vineyards, can be best de-
scribed as Turkey’s Tuscany
• Çeşme — town on Turkey’s (almost) westernmost
tip with an impressive citadel • Dilek Peninsula National Park (Dilek Yarımadası
Milli Parkı) — situated just south of resort town
• Foça — town north of Izmir noted for its preserved of Güzelçamlı, which is about 15-min minibus ride
architecture and the nearby islands that are one of south of Kuşadası, this peninsula is perhaps the
the last refugees of endangered monk seals wildest stretch of land on Turkish Aegean coast.
• Ilıca — village known for its thermal springs dis- Centred around the Mt Samsun (Samsun Dağı)
charging from sea floor, near Çeşme which juts out towards the Greek island of Samos,
this place covered with lush forests were declared
• Kuşadası — resort town south of Izmir, with a har- as a national park in 1966 because of a number
bour that almost any cruise ship on a Mediterranean of rare species of animals inhabiting it, Anato-
tour calls lian leopard (Panthera pardus tulliana), which is
thought to be extict by now, being the most impor-
• Manisa — inland city east of Izmir, a possible for tant one. Although you will most likely not have
visiting Sardis, the Lydian capital, as well as the a chance to encounter any of these rare fauna (ex-
beautiful Mt. Sipylus nearby cept maybe a horde of wild horses if you choose
• Selçuk — town serving as a gateway to Ephesus, to visit in winter and perhaps the ubiquitous wild
which is also a historic center in its own right. boars which mostly subsist on food refuse left by
humans, sometimes going as bold as directly scaven-
• Tire — inland town with a well-known street market gering unattended lunchboxes—be careful), with its
103
104 CHAPTER 30. CENTRAL AEGEAN
hiking trails and quite secluded beaches sandy and 30.8.1 Itineraries
stony alike—some of which, except the first four
ones to be more precisely, are closed to public pre-
sumably due to military reasons when arriving over-
30.9 Do
land, although all are attainable by boat tours depart-
ing from Güzelçamlı—the park is a great get-away 30.10 Eat
when you are bored of concrete sprawl of Aegean
resorts. 4 TL pp, 10 TL/car. It’s impossible to
overnight (legally) within the park. 30.11 Drink
• Sardis — a set of ruins in Salihli district of Manisa
province, the former capital of Lydia. 30.12 Stay safe
30.4 Understand 30.13 Go next
Central Aegean encompasses what were historically

called Ionia on the coast, and Lydia inland.
30.5 Talk
30.6 Get in
• Adnan Menderes Airport is located south of Izmir
and serves to a number of flights from around Turkey
and western Europe.
• Buses are available to Izmir from most, if not all,

cities in Turkey.
• Ferries connect Çeşme and Kusadasi with the

Greek islands of Chios and Samos, respectively.
Also, Izmir has a weekly ferry service from Istanbul
during summer.
• Trains leave Bandirma (on the coast of Marmara),

Denizli (in the Southern Aegean), and Ankara (in
Central Anatolia) for Izmir.
30.7 Get around
30.7.1 By train
Central Aegean is home to the densest (as well as the
oldest—the earliest constructions date back to 1857) rail
network in the country. In addition to the frequent (rel-
atively speaking) regional trains that run on main trunk
lines between Izmir and Manisa, and Izmir and Aydın,
many railbus (raybüs) services connect agricultural towns
lying at the end of branch lines with larger settlements,
especially Izmir.
30.8 See
Chapter 31
Akhisar
Akhisar is a small city in Aegean Turkey. 31.2.2 By train

Akhisar can be reached from Izmir, Balikesir, or
Bandirma by either of two daily trains between Izmir and
31.1 Understand Bandirma: the 6 Eylül or 17 Eylül Express. The station
itself is seven blocks, or about 400 meters, from the ruins.
31.3 Get around
Tempemezarı ruins
Formerly known as Thyatira, and one of the Seven

Churches of Asia, it’s now a small market town in Man-
isa province. All that remains of Thyatira is a small set
of ruins known as Tepemezarı, covering one city block. In Akhisar, horse carts aren't just for show
Akhisar is not a tourist town, and you may be greeted Akhisar is small enough that it’s easy to walk around. You
with some incredulity by local children. However the will also see plenty of horse-drawn carriages, however un-
people are friendly, and the architecture and horse-drawn like in tourist areas, these are working animals, and it’s
carriages make it feel about a hundred years behind the unlikely you will be able to hire one.
times, and thus well worth a visit.
31.4 See
31.2 Get in
Once you've seen Tepemezarı (which isn't that hard, as it’s
31.2.1 By bus limited to a city block), walk around the town and take a
look at the lovely architecture and horse-drawn carriages.
Buses run frequently from Izmir and Manisa. It’s roughly
a two hour bus ride from Izmir’s Bornova bus sta-
tion. From the Akhisar Bus station, Tepemezarı can be 31.5 Do
reached in a roughly ten-twenty minute walk. Walk south
along the main highway for about a mile, and turn left Walk around, and maybe hang out in one of the lovely
onto Ismail Bahri Bey Cd. parks that dot the city.
105
106 CHAPTER 31. AKHISAR
31.6 Buy
31.7 Eat
The view from 16th street, a nice place to eat
16 Sk. becomes a broad, pedestrian-only thoroughfare

across from Tepemezarı, and has a number of restaurants
(including a pizza place and a coffee shop) with a nice
atmosphere.
31.8 Drink
31.9 Sleep
31.10 Connect
31.11 Go next
If you're not returning to Izmir (or if you are) you might
consider Sardis to the south-east, or Bergama to the
northwest.
Chapter 32
Alaçatı
and the season.
32.2.2 By car
Alaçatı lies very close to O-31, a motorway (toll-road)
with 3-lanes per direction linking Izmir with Çeşme. It
takes around 45 minutes to get to the village from Izmir,
which lies 72 km east of Alaçatı.
The village lies 8 km east of Çeşme.
32.3 Get around

Typical architecture of Alaçatı
The beach on the windsurfing cove, which lies about 2
km south of village, is connected to village centre by
Alaçatı (pronounced aa-LAA-chaa-tuh) is a village in
minibuses (dolmuş).
Central Aegean, just east of Çeşme, on the peninsula jut-
ting out into the Aegean Sea.
32.4 See
32.1 Understand • Local architecture. Perhaps the main attraction of
the village, all of the village’s old parts consist of
Formerly named Agrilia and inhabited by local Greeks very well preserved local Greek architecture of stone
until 1920s, Alaçatı was long forgotten until 1990s when buildings lining cobbled streets.
it started to attract Turkish intellectuals yearning for a
peaceful, rural haven. Since 2000s, it is much trendier • Windmills. Ancient windmills dating back to 19th
and has a wider visitor profile, which includes many wind- century on the top of the hill overlooking the village.
surfers. Windmills themselves are shadowed by much taller
modern electricity-generating wind turbines.
32.2 Get in
32.5 Do
32.2.1 By bus • Windsurfing. The cove of Alaçatı lies on the lee-
ward side of this much windy peninsula in Turkey’s
Buses departing from Izmir's otogar heading for
western tip, which means lots of wind but no visible
Çeşme—the principal town of the peninsula—calls at
waves towards the coast—perfect for windsurfing!
Alaçatı. The buses are run by Çeşme Seyahat (, ☎ +90
There are some schools offering windsurfing train-
232 716-82-99. ), with one and a half hour intervals
ing on the beach.
between 06:30AM and 7:30PM during off-season, most
likely more frequent during summer. • Babylon Alaçatı Beach. A great private beach in
There are also minibuses (dolmuş) from Çeşme, and Ilıca Alaçatı, mostly preferred by holidaymakers from Is-
every 15-30 minutes depending on the time of the day tanbul.
107
108 CHAPTER 32. ALAÇATI

There is a lively street market held every Saturday, with Telephone code of the village is (+90) 232.
fresh fruit and vegetables, clothes, and various other prod-
ucts on the offer.
32.11 Go next
32.7 Eat • Ilıca, with its hot springs discharging from the sea
floor just next to a beach, lies on the northern coast
• Pide — Turkish pizza, available at everywhere, and of the peninsula, close to Alaçatı.
mostly tasty, but you should definitely taste the ones
at Babylon Aya Yorgi beach.
• Fish — Definitely there are many alternatives for

fish restaurants in Alaçatı and around nearby Çeşme
as well. Dalyan is a very close village where locals
prefer to dine in. Do not forget to try Turkish raki
with fish.
• Kumru. A Special Turkish sandwich on a spe-

cial kumru bread, typically with cheese, tomato, and
garlic sausage and salami, no ketchup or mayonesee
Kumru wexcogitated by Kumrucu Huseyin in 60’s...
32.8 Drink
32.9 Sleep
• Taş Hotel, Alaçatı. A boutique hotel.
• Imerek Otel, Yenimecidiye Mahallesi, 3048 Sokak

no: 9, Alaçatı, ☎ +90 232 716-69-68, e-mail:
neslinal@gmail.com. A hotel housed in a histori-
cal building, offering rooms with air-con, en-suite
bathrooms, wireless internet access.
• Umit Ev Otel, 3058 Sok. no:24 Yenime-

cidiye Mahallesi, ☎ +90 232 716-81-33, e-mail:
umit@umitevotel.com. A small hotel in a historic
building with traditional architecture in downtown
Alaçatı, in a big garden. Provides organic breakfast
(from garden), and free shuttles to beaches around
Alaçatı, as well as boat tours to fishing and swim-
ming spots.
• Alacati Kapari Otel, 8024 sok no.4 (Alacati), ☎ 90

232 7160674. Hotel of 22 rooms build in 2011 have
pool, fitness ,jacuzzi and spa.
• Yukari Sokak, Tokoglu Mah. 1031 Sok.

No:2 (Alacati), ☎ 90 232 716 7151, e-mail:
alacati@yukarisokak.com. A 180 year old stone
building, carrying out all traditions of Alacati in its
4 rooms.
Chapter 33
Alaşehir
Alaşehir is in Aegean Turkey. 33.2.2 By train

There are two daily trains (each way) between Basmane
station in Izmir and Uşak, and one between Izmir and
Konya which stop at Alaşehir. The Alaşehir train sta-
33.1 Understand tion appears to be in the center of the town. There are
also daily commuter trains between Alaşehir and Man-
isa, leaving Alaşehir early in the morning, and returning
from Manisa to Alaşehir in the afternoon (making them
impractical unless you plan to stay overnight in Alaşehir).
33.3 Get around

Alaşehir is small enough to be easily navigable on foot.
33.4 See
Formerly known as Philadelphia the city was founded

in 189 BC by the king of Pergamon. Most of the city
is quite new, as the town was burned by the Greeks dur-
ing the Turkish War of Independence. Today Alaşehir is
an agricultural center and market town, rather run-down,
with little to see and not much to recommend it. (If you're
interested in a traditional market town for Turkish farm-
ing country, Akhisar is much nicer.)
33.2 Get in St. John’s Church
There’s a monument in Alaşehir celebrating the libera-

33.2.1 By bus tion of the town in the Turkish War of Independence,
which the locals are quite proud of, despite its resem-
Alaşehir is easily accessible by bus from Izmir, costing blance to pretty much every other liberation monument
about 20 lira for a one-way ticket and running roughly in every other Turkish town that played a role in the war.
every two hours. These buses also stop in Manisa, and There’s also the ruins of the Church of St. John (St. Jean
it’s possible there may be more frequent minibuses to be Kilesesi), though it’s only open rarely (possibly by ap-
caught in Manisa. pointment), and locals seem uncertain of exactly when
109
110 CHAPTER 33. ALAŞEHIR
33.10 Connect
33.11 Go next
If you're in Alaşehir, it’s probably because you want to
see the Seven Churches of Asia. Two of these churches
are nearby, Sardis in Salihli, and Laodicea, near Denizli.
Sardis can be reached by train or bus, while Denizli can
only be directly reached by bus or (or possibly minibus)
or private transportation.
Monument to the liberation of the city
the church can be visited. There’s also a bit of a ruined

wall by the bus station, and a fake castle down the road.
33.5 Do
Spring and summer is good for fresh fruit.
Aside from walking around the town, it’s possible to

check out the market, and buy fresh produce.
33.6 Buy
Fresh produce, on market days (of which Saturday is one,
though there may be others).
33.7 Eat
33.8 Drink
33.9 Sleep
Chapter 34
Çeşme
downtown) has lots of neo-classical buildings from

late 1800s/early 1900s that wouldn't be out of place
in, say, Symi, which are well preserved and are quite
elegant.
34.3 Do
• Windsurfing
• Kiteboarding — the beaches around Çeşme (e.g.,

Pırlanta-Çiftlikköy) offer good kiteboarding.
The old town and the castle of Çeşme • Do not miss a trip to one of the thermal baths in
nearby Ilıca.... either in the hotels (Altın Yunus is a
Çeşme (pronounced chaysh-may) is a sea-side resort good one) or at one of the stand alone pools.
town on the Aegean, west of Izmir, favoured by inter-
national travellers. It lies on the extreme western tip of
Turkey, opposite the Greek island of Chios. 34.4 Buy
34.1 Get in 34.5 Eat

There are several ways to get to Çeşme, it’s a half an hour • Kumru — a kind of local warm sandwich. Tasty,
drive from Izmir by car, and there are several bus com- it is made with a special bread originally stuffed
panies that will drive you to Çeşme from Izmir on any with salami, Turkish garlic-flavoured sausage (su-
time of the day. Buses from Çeşme to Izmir at the time cuk), grilled cheese and tomatoes; nowadays a vege-
of writing are around TL 10, ie around €5. tarian version is also available if you ask for it, pre-
There is one, possibly two, daily ferry(ies) to Çeşme from pared without the sausage and with the addition of
the Greek island of Chios, the boat ride takes slightly over green pepper. Most famous eatery specialized in
an hour and costs the whopping sum (for such a short ride) kumru is Kumrucu Sevki at downtown.
of €23 one-way or €40 return.
Bus services are also available from Istanbul, the route • Ice cream (dondurma) — Veli Usta is a great place
lasts approximately 8 hours. to have an ice-cream. There are lots of flavors avail-
able, including very local balbadem (honey and al-
mond) and black currant, which are the most fa-
vorite flavors.
34.2 See
• Çeşme Castle (Çeşme Kalesi) (at the town centre).
A well-preserved citadel by the shore. 34.6 Drink
• Old town. Old part of the town (virtually all of Raki
111
112 CHAPTER 34. ÇEŞME
34.7 Sleep
• Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Altınyunus
Mah. 3435 Sok. No. 25, ☎ +90 232 455-
45-00, fax: +90 232 455-45-01, e-mail:
info.cesme@radissonblu.com. Beachfront ho-
tel offering rooms with a seaview, TV, free internet
access. Two swimming pools (both indoor and
outdoor) and an on-site spa available. Note that
the hotel lies far away (5 km) from the old town,
though. € 165-278.
• Rıdvan Hotel (at the centre of old town).
• Sheraton Çeşme.
34.8 Connect
Town’s telephone code is (+90) 232.
34.9 Go next
• Alaçatı — a historical town on the southern leeward
side of the peninsula—and thus is perfect for wind-
surfing!—noted for its Greek houses, ancient wind-
mills with modern electricity-generating wind tur-
bines side by side on the hill overlooking it. About
8 km east of Çeşme.
• Ilıca — a town noted for its thermal springs, located
5 km east of Çeşme, on the northern coast of penin-
sula.
• The Greek island of Chios is just opposite Çeşme,
about an hour away by ferry, and thanks to quite fre-
quent ferries can be done as a day-trip from Çeşme.
The ferry departs at 11AM from Çeşme and the re-
turn trip is at 5PM from Chios (4PM on Sundays).
Chapter 35
Ephesus
Ephesus (Turkish: Efes) is a large archeological site in 35.3 Fees/Permits

Aegean Turkey and one of the country’s major tourist at-
tractions. Entry tickets cost 25 TL/person, while the Terrace
Houses (in a covered building within the site) cost an ad-
ditional 15 TL/person (July 2014).
35.4 Get around

The grounds of Ephesus are seen entirely on foot. Path-
ways are signed clearly and easily navigated as you make
your way through the park. The ruins are situated on the
bank of a hill. There are two entry/exit points. The en-
tire ruins are easily covered on foot within two hours. An
entry from the upper gate will make going around much
more easier and there are parking lots located at the both
gates.
Celsus Library in Ephesus

35.5 See
Sights are listed in the order that they are encountered
when walking down from the Upper Gate.
35.1 Understand • Terrace House. Housed under a protective roof,

this remarkably preserved Roman house is defi-
nitely worth the price of admission. Segmented
35.2 Get in into several different individual units, the marble
and mosaics that decorated the house have been
painstakingly restored, giving an impression of how
The nearest town is Selçuk, which offers lodging and the Roman upper-class once lived. Like the rest of
transportation to Ephesus. From Selçuk, the easiest way Ephesus the site is a working archaeological area,
to visit the ruins is to take a taxi to the top gate for but raised paths allow you to visit the majority and
15 TL. You can then walk downhill through the ruins informative signs illuminate what you are seeing
and return from the parking lot to the Selçuk bus station along the way. 15 TL.
via minibuses (shared taxi called “dolmuş"— pronounced
dol-mush— in Turkish) which run every 10-15 minutes • Celsus Library. One of the highlights of Turkey,
in the high season and cost 3.50 TL (July 2014 prices). the impressively restored facade of this ancient li-
You can also walk from Selçuk - it is a 4 km walk in a brary stands three stories high and is a historically
good asphalt way. Some pensions and hotels in Selçuk accurate recreation of how the library once ap-
will provide transportation. peared. Built between 117 and 120 AD, the library
If you are driving your own car, parking is only available once held as many as 12,000 scrolls, making it one
at the bottom gate. of the largest in the Ancient world.
113
114 CHAPTER 35. EPHESUS
• Great Theatre. The 25,000 seat theatre was un- • You may want to consider a visit to another archae-
til recently still used for major concerts, with artists ological site in Aegean Turkey: Aphrodisias. With
such as Elton John, Ray Charles and Jethro Tull per- an entrance fee of only 8 TL, it has perhaps more
forming. Today, in order to ensure its protection it value than Ephesus but it is around 100 km away
is used only for smaller acts. The theatre was built from Ephesus.
around 200 BC, and expanded or renovated several
times thereafter.
35.6 Do
35.7 Buy
There are many souvenir shops at the two exit gates. You
may find Turkish hand made articles. Haggling is possi-
ble. The best way is to compare prices in two or three
more shops before you buy. It is not a good place to buy
carpet and leather, you can buy them in big shops at Sel-
cuk with a reasonable price.
35.8 Eat
There are many fast food and small Turkish restaurants
at the both gates. You can find many nice restaurants on
the way to Selcuk or Kusadasi or in the towns.
35.9 Drink
There are many cafés at the both gates.
35.10 Sleep
There are no accommodations on site in ancient city itself.
Nearest options are in Selçuk, 4 km away. There are also
lots of people visiting Ephesus on a day-trip from coastal
Kuşadası, a bit further away.
35.11 Go next
• In Selçuk, there is an impressive Byzantine ruin, the
Church of St. John.
• House of the Virgin Mary is a popular Catholic

and Muslim pilgrimage site, about 6 kilometers from
Ephesus.
• Consider visiting some of the other Seven

Churches of Asia, including Sardis and Pergamon,
both less than four hours from Ephesus, and
containing impressive ruins.
Chapter 36
Foça
Not to be confused with Foča in Bosnia and 36.2 Get in

Herzegovina.
From the airport in Izmir, you can take the tram to its
final stop. From there you can catch a bus to Foca.
36.3 Get around
36.4 See
Foça
Foça is a town in Central Aegean, just north of Izmir.
36.1 Understand
Foça, not unlike many others along the Aegean coast, is a
town about 3000 years old. For most of its history, it was
known as Phocaea/Phokaia, which was the metropolis
(“mother city”, i.e. sailors of which founded the colony)
of a number of cities in western Mediterranean, including
Marseille, France.
Modern Foça is one of the towns with a well-preserved
old town full of stone/Greek architecture on the Aegean Waterfront of Foça
coast, along with others such as Ayvalık, Alaçatı, and
Çeşme, but perhaps the least known and the least trav-
elled of them.
Foça was for long known for its local breed of roosters,
but with the growing environmentalist movement, criti- 36.5 Do
cally endangered Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus
monachus)—after which, known as fokia in Greek and Foca offers many boat tours, for approximately 40 Turk-
fok in Turkish, the town was named in the first place— ish Liras as of July 2012. The tour lasts from 10AM
largely replaced them as the mascot of the town. Around to 5PM and stops at several of the small surrounding is-
20 individuals of this species, which is estimated to have lands. Lunch is included in the tour and you can swim
a worldwide population of fewer than 600, live on the un- and snorkel at the various stops.
inhabited islands just off Foça.
Foça is sometimes colloquially called Eski Foça (“old
Foça”) as opposed to Yeni Foça (“new Foça”), another
town about 20 km to north, which was founded only about 36.6 Buy
800 years ago.
115
116 CHAPTER 36. FOÇA
36.7 Eat
• Palmiye Cafe. Palmiye cafe is located in the middle
of Foca’s city center near the water. They offer a
full traditional Turkish breakfast with free tea for 12
liras, Hamburgers for 4 liras, Turkish Coffee for 2
liras, and .5 liter efes beer for 6 liras. They have
friendly service and great prices.
• Kale Cafe. Kale Cafe is located just beyond Foca’s

“5 doors” medieval castle. They offer .5 liter efes
beer for 7 liras, as well as an assortment of frozen
lemonade, milk shakes and other refreshing drinks.
The cafe also offers a full assortment of food and ap-
petizers for reasonable prices. Kale Cafe is located
just in front of a swimming area allowing patrons to
cool off in the water and return to drinking, eating,
and relaxing in the outdoor cafe. Kale cafe is a great
place to escape the crowd commonly found closer to
the center.
36.8 Drink
Most places in Foca offer a selection of alcohol. In cafes,
a half liter of beer is 6-8 liras, at bars and night life ori-
ented locations prices can be 10 liras or higher. Turk-
ish Raki is available in many places for reasonable prices.
Drinks containing liquor can be a bit more pricey, so bud-
get minded travelers should stick to beer or raki.
• Dip Bar. Dip Bar is a fairly well known bar among

the locals in Foca. It offers a stage with live music
inside, or a relaxing atmosphere outside. Inside a
half liter beer on tap is 10 liras. The crowd is mostly
younger and lively.
36.9 Sleep
36.10 Connect
Foça is within the area code (+90) 232, which it shares
with many other towns and cities to north and south, in-
cluding Izmir.
36.11 Go next
Chapter 37
Ilica
Ilıca is a town near Çeşme in Aegean Turkey.
37.1 Get in
37.2 Get around
37.3 See
37.4 Do
• The town is known for its thermal springs arising
from the shallow sea bottom with a temperature of
58 degrees celsius. Much like a very large and open-
air hamam (Turkish bath) pool.
37.5 Buy
37.6 Eat
37.7 Drink
37.8 Sleep
• Ilıca Hotel.
37.9 Connect
37.10 Go next
• If you prefer take a dip in a refreshing colder sea
rather than what is essentially an open air bathtub
and spend your time in somewhere more than what
is a coastal resort basically, head south to Alaçatı,
which has some pretty nice historical architecture in
addition to a beach.
117
Chapter 38
Izmir
before a brief recovery following Alexander the Great’s

arrival in 334 BC.
After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes
and re-established Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kad-
ifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans.
It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later re-
constructed and became a major commercial port. After
the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the
Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I
incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Un-
der Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriv-
ing and sophisticated city and a huge trading center, de-
spite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with
mainly Greek Orthodox and also Jews and Muslims, and
Clock tower in Konak Square, iconic symbol of the city many languages were spoken among locals and visiting
traders.
İzmir is a rapidly growing city on the Central Aegean
Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman
coast of Turkey.
Empire, on the basis of a major Greek-speaking popula-
tion of the area, Greece was granted a mandate over İzmir
from the Allies and so Greece took control of the whole
38.1 Understand Aegean Area. Led by Kemal Atatürk the Turkish army
launched a counter-attack and seized the city. Soon there-
after 70% of the city burned to the ground. The big fire
İzmir is the third largest city in Turkey with a popula-
ended the multinational era of the city. Atatürk formally
tion of around 3.7 million, the second biggest port af-
took İzmir on 9 September 1922 which is celebrated as
ter Istanbul, and a very good transport hub. Once the
the day of city’s independence in İzmir.
ancient city of Smyrna, it is now a modern, developed,
and busy commercial center, set around a huge bay and
surrounded by mountains. The broad boulevards, glass- 38.1.2 Climate
fronted buildings and modern shopping centers are dotted
with traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, Dry and sunny summers in İzmir are so infernally hot and
and old mosques and churches, although the city has an at- sticky that, unless there is an air-con in your room, you
mosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than traditional will most likely have trouble falling asleep at least on your
Turkey. first night, no matter whether the windows are wide open
or not. However, a mild breeze coming in ashore from the
sea (locally called meltem) may refreshen the evenings, at
38.1.1 History least in locations close to the waterfront. Temperature can
drop down to freezing point (0°C/32°F) in mostly windy
The history of İzmir stretches back to around 3000 BC and rainy winters, however snowfall is some sort of curi-
when the Trojans founded the city in Tepekule in the ousness in these latitudes, which happens once or at most
northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace of twice a decade, if at all.
Homer, who was thought to have lived here around the
8th century BC. The Aeolians, the first Greek settlers,
were eventually taken over by the (also Greek) Ionians, 38.2 Get in
and then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC
118
38.3. GET AROUND 119
38.2.1 By train north of Konak Square with intervals of about 10

minutes between 5AM and midnight. It’s possible to
İzmir has two railway stations: Basmane in the city cen- transfer to the metro in Halkapınar station (which is,
ter serves regional trains and the Metro, and Alsancak in indeed, the last station for some of the services) for
the north serves intercity trains and the IZBAN. trips further into the city centre, e.g. Konak Square.
The main intercity services include: Ankara (Mavi Tren is
the fastest at 14 hours), Denizli (3 express trains daily, 5–
6 hours) and Isparta (9 hours). Trains for Istanbul connect 38.2.4 By bus
with a ferry at Bandirma.
The bus station, or otogar, is 6 km north east of town
although there are plenty of dolmuş that make the journey
• Basmane Station, ☎ +90 232 484-86-38. there from the centre. The bus station is huge and has
• Alsancak Station, ☎ +90 232 458-31-31. an internet cafe, plenty of facilities for food and drink
and a large number of agencies selling tickets for coaches
which, if departing imminently, they will be shouting out
Basmane station is linked by metro (which has a separate
the destinations of. It also has pay toilets.
station than the train one) to Hatay,Karabağlar in the west
and to Erzene Neighbourhood,Bornova in the east. Buses to Istanbul take 9 hours (including a brief trip
on a ferry) and travellers are provided with water, hot
drinks, snacks and regular stops for toilets and food all
38.2.2 By boat for free on the better services for fares around 50TL per
person one way. Check http://www.otobusbileti.gen.tr/
There is a weekly ferry from Istanbul-İzmir (19 hours), izmir-otobus-bileti for prices of bus tickets from İzmir
operating at weekends, and one or two weekly ferries be- to all cities and towns in Turkey.
tween İzmir and Venice (67 hours). All ferries dock at the
Alsancak Ferry Terminal, 2 km north of the city center.
38.3 Get around
• Alsancak Yeni Liman (terminal), ☎ +90 232 464-
88-64 / 89, fax: +90 232 464-78-34.
38.3.1 On foot
38.2.3 By plane You can explore İzmir inner city by walking. Walking
Routes to center of the city are very easy to walk and
Adnan Menderes Airport (IATA: ADB), 16 km south enjoyable.
of the city center, has several daily flights to Istanbul,
Ankara, and Antalya. There are also regular flights from
many European cities. 38.3.2 By metro
Iz Air is a local carrier operating out of Adnan Menderes
and offers many domestic connections. The system of urban rail in İzmir consists of two lines:
• Adnan Menderes Airport (Adnan Menderes • a line connecting city centre/Konak Square with the
Havaalanı), ☎ +90 232 274-21-87, fax: +90 232 northeastern suburb of Bornova
274-20-71.
• a line connecting Cumaovasi (to the south) and Ali-
ağa (to the north). It also provides connection to
From the airport, you have three public transport options
Foça and other places north from İzmir.
into the city:
• Airport shuttles (HAVAŞ) meet incoming flights 38.3.3 By bus

and go to and from the city center for 10 TL (be
sure to get off the bus in the centre of town, as the There is an extensive system of public buses covering the
bus continues north to Tersane). entire city.
• Public buses run by ESHOT, transportation depart-
ment of city council, are cheaper than Havaş, at 3.70
TL/passenger if you have a Kentkart. 38.3.4 By boat
• Recently re-opened in August 2010, renovated and Public ferries are easy, fast inside the coast and provide a
upgraded suburban train line (İzban, ) connects nice view of İzmir. Preferable to every other transporta-
the airport with Alsancak Station in city centre, tion in nice weather.
120 CHAPTER 38. IZMIR
38.3.5 By taxi • Kızlarağası Hanı-House of Girls’ Master— An old

inn (kervansaray) in Kemeraltı where you can shop
There are many taxis with reasonable price. for carpets and jewelry.
• Blend in with locals and take the boat from Konak

38.4 See to Karşıyaka.
Due to the Great Fire of 1920s, there is a relative lack of • See also the old fortress and the Agora. This site is
historical sights in İzmir, especially when considered how usually quiet and you can roam about the ruins of
old the city really is (more than 5000 years old). the old Greek market.
• Konak Square. Main square of the city center, fa- • Beaches — Having a coastline on Aegean sea, İzmir
mous for the clock tower, one of the unique smybols owns lots of beaches which are not too far from the
of İzmir. The clock tower was built in 1901. There city center. There is public transportation available
are also Konak Yali Mosque and Kemeraltı Bazaar to most of them. The places include Foça, Dikili,
located around the square. Urla, Seferihisar, and Çeşme.
• Asansör (Elevator). This landmark was con-

structed by a Jewish businessman in 1907. The pur- 38.6 Buy
pose was to help residents to go to their districts on
the top of the hill. The elevator used to work by a
You can go to Konak Pier, a small mall along the Kordon
water-driven mechanism. Later, it was restored by
with a cinema and with local and other known brands.
İzmir Municipality and now it works by electricity.
Another mall is called Forum, in Bornova. Forum is
There is a restaurant located on the top of the eleva-
a very big mall with all brands and a supermarket in a
tor with a bird-eye view of İzmir.
Mediterranean style one floored houses in open air. Ke-
• Alsancak. A neighbourhood of small streets with meraltı (in the city center) offers great deal of souvenirs
lots of bars in old Greek houses, where you can have in a nice traditional atmosphere.
tea or a beer and try several waterpipe flavors.
• Kadifekale. An old castle on the hill which it’s 38.7 Eat

named after.
• Melons, because İzmir has a warm climate so mel-
• İzmir Agora Open Air Museum (Smyrna). Ruins ons are always local and fresh.
of the ancient city of Smyrna that flourished during
the Hellenistic and Roman periods. • İzmir has a famous restaurant that serves the region’s
specialties, especially shish kebabs.
• Teleferik (cable car) — (This is closed at the moment
and likely remain so for quite a long time) Having • Fish, grilled sea bass and mezes. Usually the fish is
served since 1977, it carries people to 423 m. up fresh and plenty in all seasons. Veli Usta offers great
above the sea level. There are restaurants, cafes and deal of fish in Alsancak.
gift shops located on the top of the hill.(in construc-
tion) • Kumru, a warm sandwich, made with a special bread
with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese
and tomatoes, also a vegetarian version is available
without the sausage and with the addition of green
38.5 Do pepper. This is something not to be missed while in
İzmir, because it’s almost impossible to find it any-
• Walk along the Kordon, the waterfront promenade, where else in the country. It’s sold at numerous stalls
now lined by rows of tall apartment buildings and in the streets. Best to be eaten earlier in the day to
palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, have it warm as they find their way out of bakeries
with a large patch of lawn and a cobbled street in in the morning. Two of them is more than enough
between, where you can have a 19th-century fayton to appease you hunger and 1.25 TL is the standard
(horse-drawn carriages) ride. price per each throughout the city.
• Tulum Peyniri, a kind of cheese specially made in

• Kemeraltı — A must see. A big bazaar, where you İzmir region.
can buy clothes, presents etc. There are also a lot of
lounges where you can sit. • Copsis Kebab at Topcu in Cankaya
38.10. COPE 121
• Belkahve: İzmir from the eye of Atatürk in 1922 • Zena House (Zena Tourism Agency), ☎ +90
5416325467, +90 544 3977746, e-mail:
• Boyoz, another local pastry but much oilier than info@zenahouse.com. www.zenahouse.com is
kumru, to eat with a cup of tea in the breakfast. a Turkish based company for apartment rentals
where highly professional, motivated and fluent in
BOLCOVA SHOPPING COMPLEXES may be the English people work. Our aim is to provide high
most modern shopping and entertainment where in Eu- quality accommodation and accompanying services
ropean Style.Besides prices are reasanable. in İzmir(Turkey) at a reasonable price 60-100 Us $
/Per Night.
• Gümüş Tabak. A cafe-restaurant in Kızlarağası
Hanı, Kemeraltı, which offers you the traditional
Turkish delicacies, from Köfte to Kokoreç with very
affordable prices. You should also try the tradi-
38.10 Cope
tional Turkish coffee that is prepared in a special
way, boiled in the cup, fincan. 38.10.1 Consulates
• Greece, Atatürk Caddesi 366/1A, Alsancak, ☎

38.8 Drink +90 232 464-31-60, +90 232 464-31-61, +90
232 421-69-92, fax: +90 232 463-33-93, e-mail:
Join the nightlife on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi in Alsan- grgencon.smy@mfa.gr. M-F 09.00-16.00, except
cak, and go find the Gazi Kadinlar Street. Wednesdays, official holidays.
Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays are when the street is
liveliest.
38.11 Stay safe
• All pubs and cafes in Kordon (Alsancak’s water-
front) are attractive in nice weather. İzmir Police Department has a “tourism police” section
• 1448 Sokak at Alsancak is full of bars and pubs where travellers can report passport loss and theft or any
from one end to another. They also have seats out other criminal activity, they may have become victims of.
on the sidewalk, and the uniform price for a bottle The staff is multilingual and will speak English, German,
of beer (a pint/0.50 litre) is 6 TL all along the street. French, and Arabic.
• Tourism Police (Turizm Polisi), Turizm Şube

38.9 Sleep Müdürlüğü, Tepecik, ☎ +90 232 489-47-77, fax:
+90 232 441-11-63.
In İzmir there are many hotels 5 minutes walk from the
railway station to suit all tastes and wallets. Hilton is very
close to city center in Alsancak, and Swissotel is opened 38.12 Go next
this year which is also located in Alsancak. Also there is
Crowne Plaza, which is about 30 min. from center.
• Çeşme a small village for all summer activities, half
an hour drive to İzmir to west.
• Hotel Yaman, 1440 Sokak No.19, Alsancak, ☎
+90 232 421-12-87, fax: +90 232 421-02-69,
e-mail: hotelyaman@hotelyaman.com. Rooms • Selçuk, a few hours by bus or train to the south of
with en-suite bathroom, satellite TV, air-con, wi- the city, is a town with much historical sights, as well
fi, safebox free of charge. €45/€60 single/double as serving as a hub to visit nearby Roman city of
rooms. Ephesus and Virgin Mary’s House, where the Vati-
can declared an official Catholic pilgrimage site. It
• Güzel İzmir Oteli, 9 Eylül Meydanı, 1368. Sokak is also a few kilometers away from Kuşadası, and
No.8, Basmane, ☎ +90 232 483-50-69. Rooms with the pleasant inland village of Şirince, renowned for
shower/toilet, satellite TV, air-con, wi-fi. €35 dou- its wines.
ble room.
• Hotel Bodrum, 1362 Sokak No12 Cankaya (5 • Tire, takes only an hour to arrive from the city cen-
minutes walk from the railway station towards the ter, a typical Aegean town, you can visit Turkey’s
sea front.). Rooms have wireless internet hot/cold biggest open town market on Tuesdays and have a
shower, Turkish TV and air-con. 40TkL per night good lunch in Kaplan with typical Aegean foods and
for single/double room including breakfast. famous meatballs of Tire.
122 CHAPTER 38. IZMIR
• Manisa, just to east over Sabuncubeli Pass, is hub

for visiting nearby Sardes, the capital of ancient Ly-
cians, and Mount Sipylus, which offers beautiful
forest scenery as well as sites with mythological ref-
erences.
Chapter 39
Kusadasi
39.4 See
39.5 Do
39.5.1 Beach life
The castle on the Pigeon Island
Kuşadası is a coastal resort town in the Aydin Province

of Aegean Turkey. It has become a popular holiday
resort, especially for visitors from Northern and West-
ern Europe. It has about 50,000 residents, although that
grows significantly during the high season months of May A beach in Kuşadası
to October.
There are some good beaches both south and north of
Kusadasi. All beaches are commercialized with hotels
surrounding them. South of Kusadasi is the ladies beach,
39.1 Understand lost paradise beach and the long beach
Kusadasi takes its name from the Turkish for 'Bird Island',
a reference to Pigeon Island, which is connected to the 39.6 Buy
mainland of Kusadasi by a short causeway.
The “downtown” area near the waterfront is quite mod-
ern, with many stores and an open air bazaar. Offerings
39.2 Get in range from typical souvenirs to fine jewelry and Turkish
rugs. Hawkers frequently implore passersby to come in-
side, but with patience, visitors can find quality items at
Visitors can arrive by highway (from north, south, and
prices often somewhat better than in large cities. Bar-
east), ferries (from Samos) or cruise ships, which ply the
gaining is expected, and essential in the bazaar.
Eastern Mediterranean. Docks are right downtown, and
terminals offer a good selection of stores including a duty-
free shop. • Mosaic Rugs, Mahmut Esat Bozkurt Cad. No:8,
☎ +90 256 612 82 82. Located next to the Port, a
showroom displaying traditional Turkish handmade
silk and wool carpets with an exhibition area where
39.3 Get around staff happily explain the rug making process. Learn
about silk production, natural color dyes and the art
123
124 CHAPTER 39. KUSADASI
of traditional carpet weaving. No obligation to buy, and air-con. Staff can reportedly speak English,
but should you wish to purchase a traditional Turkish German, Japanese, and Korean.
rug to adorn your home then world wide delivery is
available. • Hotel Suer, Yeşilvadi Sokak No: 9, ☎ +90 256 622-
31-01, e-mail: reservation@hotelsuer.net. Check-
out: noon. Placed on a hilltop, the hotel offers a
39.7 Eat nice view with great sunsets. Not a bad choice if
you are looking for a low price living. The hotel is
• Avlu Restaurant & Cafe, Cephane Sokak 15 (Lo- located 20 minutes walk from Lady’s Beach. To Ku-
cated in the bazaar area behind the main post of- sadasi center you need to take a car. What’s good is
fice.). Tasty Turkish food at a reasonable price. that you get free rides wherever you would like to go
Friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere. Vegetarian as long as it’s close to Kusadasi. Don't expect too
options available upon request. Finish your meal much and you will be happy with this hotel. Stan-
with an excellent cup of Turkish coffee served in dard Turkish breakfast is served every morning. 30
style. TL/person, closed Oct-Mar.
39.8 Drink 39.10 Connect

Kuşadası falls within the area code (+90) 256, which is
Kusadasi nightlife is can get very busy during the summer
also shared by some nearby inland cities and towns, such
and offers many entertainments to nearly every age group
as Aydın.
this days and regarding to Kusadasi Observer nightlife in
Kusadasi starts from Bars Street which has been famous
for long time and gets visited by many holiday makers in
Kusadasi. 39.11 Go next
• Ephesus, one of the major and best preserved Greco-
Roman sites in Turkey, is located nearby.
39.9 Sleep
• Dilek Peninsula National Park — about 20 min
• Dias Hotel, Tarhan Candan Blv.. Family run 3-star south of Kuşadası, this park with its lush forests,
hotel, friendly and clean. Englsh speaking staff, al- hiking trails, and quite secluded beaches is exactly
ways friendly and helpful. the opposite of what Kuşadası represents, and is
therefore a great get-away.
• Hotel Panorama, Kıbrıs Caddesi 14, Hacı Feyzul- • Greek island of Samos, just southwest of Kuşadası,
lah (in downtown), ☎ +90 256 614 66 19, fax: +90 makes a great side trip (or even day-trip for those
256 614 66 54, e-mail: info@otelpanorama.com. not needing a Greek visa), thanks to daily boat con-
Hotel Panorama is a cheap, convienent backpacker nections, which depart more than once daily during
hostel to stay located just a minutes walk from high season.
the port in central Kusadasi. The owner/manager
Ali is extremely welcoming and eager to help trav-
elers with any of their plans and even has some
inside contacts (ask about Ali Baba for tours to
Ephesus). Furthermore, pick up is provided from
the port along with a free drink upon arrival to
the hostel. The rooms are clean and adequate
with en-suite bathrooms and air-con and the hos-
tel throws events at night for free such as Turk-
ish spoon dancing and belly dancing and, if you
are lucky, Ali’s mother may invite you to a home
cooked meal! €20/14/11/10 per person in sin-
gle/doube/triple/dorm rooms. Cheaper Oct-Apr.
• Sezgin Hotel, Aslanlar Caddesi 68 (in downtown),

☎ +90 256 614 42 25, e-mail: sezgin@ispro.net.tr.
A guesthouse in old town owned by a former trav-
eller. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, balconies,
Chapter 40
Manisa
Manisa is an inland city in Central Aegean, Turkey. 40.4 See
40.5 Do
40.1 Understand
Just east of the coastal city of Izmir over the Sabuncubeli 40.6 Buy
Pass, Manisa was founded as Magnesia in 190 BCE. An
important yet provincial centre during the Ottoman pe-
riod, Manisa recently started to emerge as one of the in-
40.7 Eat
dustrial powerhouses of Turkish economy. As of 2010,
the city has a population of around 300,000. 40.8 Drink
40.2 Get in 40.9 Sleep
40.2.1 By bus 40.10 Connect

Manisa lies on the main route Istanbul–Izmir buses take, Telephone code of Manisa is (+90) 236.
so has a very high frequency of bus connections from
those cities, as well as from Balıkesir and Bursa, both of
which also lie on the same route.
40.11 Go next
40.2.2 By train • Sardis (Sart) — Formerly the ancient capital city

of the Lydians (the indigenous people of the inland
Manisa lies on the main railtracks fanning out of Izmir to- Central Aegean in ancient times), Sardis is 62 km
wards north. The city station welcomes trains from Izmir east of Manisa, close to the town of Salihli and just
(six times daily), Bandırma (twice daily, via Balıkesir— off the highway to Ankara. Sardis features an al-
transferring from fast ferries from Istanbul is possible in most totally intact gymnasium, a temple dedicated
this harbour town), Ankara (twice daily, via Eskişehir, to Artemis, and a synagogue (the oldest one in Asia
Kütahya, and Balıkesir) and Uşak. There are also trains Minor, dating back to Roman times).
three times a day from the nearby town of Alaşehir.
• Mount Sipylus (Spil Dağı) — overlooking the city,
Mount Sipylus (1,513 m/4,964 ft) is a popular week-
end retreat for locals, and features dense forests,
40.2.3 By car
wild tulips, and beautiful scenery. Sipylus is also one
of the few places in this region which regularly sees
Manisa is on the main Istanbul–Balıkesir–Izmir highway,
snow in winter. On the side of the mountain is a full-
numbered D565, as well as the main Izmir–Ankara high-
faced statue of Cybele, the mother goddess of many
way, D300.
ancient Anatolian civilizations, carved into a rocky
cliff, dating back to Hittites. Also closeby, facing the
city, is the “weeping rock” (ağlayan kaya), a rock on
40.3 Get around the top of a cliff resembling a face, complete with
water flow (“tears”) coming out of the “eyes”. The
125
126 CHAPTER 40. MANISA
myth has it that, this was Niobe, who had her daugh-
ters killed by Artemis, her sons killed by Apollo, and
her husband killed himself, so she walked away to
the mountain and cried unceasingly until she petri-
fied.
Chapter 41
Sardis
Sardis or Sardes known in Turkish as Sart is a village

of Salihli. It was the former capital of Lydia, and is now a
small town which seems exist mostly as housing for local
farmers and shepherds.
41.1 Get in
41.1.1 By bus
Sardis is easily reached from Izmir, Manisa, or most

nearby cities by bus. To reach the city from Izmir or Man-
isa, find a company selling tickets to Salihli and request
to be let off at Sart (though the company will also un- View of the Temple of Artemis from the hill
derstand if you ask for “Sardis” or “Sardes”). You will
be dropped off at what appears to be a gas station. Fol-
low the road immediately past the gas station/bus stop,
which branches to the right. This road will take you past
the gymnasium complex, and ultimately to the Temple of
Artemis.
41.1.2 By train
There are two daily trains between Basmane station in

Izmir and Uşak, which stop at Sart town. The Sart train
station appears to be about a kilometer from the gymna- The gymnasium
sium (marked as “Sardes” on Google Maps), and slightly
further from the Temple of Artemis. There are also daily
commuter trains between Alaşehir and Manisa, leaving Additionally, there are several other sites, shown on maps
Alaşehir for Manisa early in the morning, and returning at the gymnasium and temple, all of which are free to
from Manisa to Alaşehir in the afternoon (making them enter, and several of which are hard to find.
impractical unless you plan to stay overnight in Sart, Sal-
ihli, or Alaşehir).
41.3 Do
41.2 See Public toilets are available if one walks west from where
the bus drops you off, and unlike most public toilets in
Turkey, they're free.
There are two main attractions in Sardis, and it costs five
lira for a ticket to see both. The Temple of Artemis is
a ruined Greco-Roman temple, which also has the orig-
inal crane from the early 20th century excavations. The 41.4 Buy
gymnasium complex includes the ruins of a Roman era
synagogue. Neither of the main attractions has a museum shop.
127
128 CHAPTER 41. SARDIS
The synagogue in the gymnasium complex
41.5 Eat
While there are several restaurants, convenience stores,
and tea houses (which serve only simit), all of these are
somewhat run-down. The best variety can be found by
going into the center of Salihli, where there are several
restaurants and a large agricultural market.
41.6 Drink
Tea can be had at a reasonable price at a handful of tea
shops along the main highway to Salihli.
41.7 Sleep
While it’s possible that you can find a hotel in Salihli,
you'd be better served staying in Izmir or Manisa, from
which Sardis is an easy day trip.
41.8 Connect
Chapter 42
Selçuk
Selçuk is an inland town in Central Aegean Turkey. 42.2.2 By train

It’s possible to take trains from Izmir's Basmane Station
eight times daily (at 7:45 AM, 9:00, 11:25 AM, 1:30 PM,
42.1 Understand 3:40 PM, 4:30 PM, 6:15 PM, and 7:10 PM. The first
seven trains are marked to Denizli, while the final one
South of Izmir and just east of the coastal town of runs to Söke. All trains, which call at the airport station
Kuşadası, Selçuk is visited mostly because of its close about 20 minutes later, arrive at Selçuk station about an
proximity to the ruins of the Roman city of Ephesus— hour and half after their initial departure (Selçuk is not
some of the best preserved in the country—and the ser- their last station, though, so be sure not to miss it).
vices the town has to offer, although the town centre itself
has some historical sights to spend some time at.
42.2.3 By bus
There are also dolmuşes from the city of Izmir itself, as
well as buses from Pamukkale, which cost 20 TL and
42.2 Get in serve drinks and snacks along the way.
The local otogar of Selçuk is located in the center of the
42.2.1 By plane town.
Although there is a small airport in Selçuk, it is only open It is possible to take an overnight bus that departs from Is-
for private planes. So the nearest option for commercial tanbul at midnight and arrives here at approx. 8AM This
flights is Adnan Menderes Airport in Izmir, which lies service is run by Varan bus lines and costs 70 TL as of
55 km north of Selçuk. the summer of 2011.
From the airport, you have two options for getting to

Selçuk: you can take trains which call at the station di- 42.3 Get around
rectly on the airport grounds (4 TL), and which connect
airport with Selçuk and points south six times daily (see
“By train” below for a timetable). Be warned that the train There are mini-buses (dolmus) to Şirince and Ephesus.
can be very packed, though, so be ready for the possibility To go to the House of Mary you may need to take a taxi .
of not being able to get on. Rented motorbikes or scooters can be a fun way to dis-
A quicker but more expensive option is to take a dolmuş, cover the surroundings of Selçuk. If you rent a bike note
which is more like a big van rather than a bus. They depart that both Şirince and the House of Mary are up in the
from Selçuk – Ephesus Otogar, which lies 2 km away from hills.
the airport (a taxi ride from the airport there costs 10 TL).
This otogar is not of the bus station type found in the rest
of the country—it’s just a bus stop with some benches. 42.4 See
Take the mini van signed Selçuk – Ephesus on its front.
Ask around if someone in charge is nearby. From here, a Selcuk is a good starting place for many excursions and
ride to Selçuk costs 7 TL, and takes around an hour. The visits in the area.
van will stop in many stops along the way, including some
remote areas, and just stay on till the very end. • A major attraction is the ancient Greek city of
If you are arriving in Adnan Menderes by Atlas Jet, they Ephesus which is located only 4km away from the
are providing free shuttles to Selçuk from the airport. center of the village. Entrance fee cost 25 TL per
129
130 CHAPTER 42. SELÇUK
person, while the Byzantine Terrace Houses cost Mehmet and Alibaba’s carpet shop, right next to the Eph-
an additional 15 TL. esus Museum. Here, at this family run business, you will
find high-quality carpets at good prices with personable
• The promenade will also take you to the The Tem- sales people - no pressure here. İf you get hungry from
ple of Artemis (Artemision). Although it was one the all the thinking over which carpet(s) are the best for
of the “Seven Wonders” of the Ancient world, nowa- you, the family also owns a restaurant next door.
days only a column is left.
• On the way there one can also visit the Cave of the
Seven Sleepers (see the infobox at right). 42.7 Eat
• The picturesque village of Şirince is located 9km • Amazon Cafe Bistro
east to Selcuk up in the hills. It offers wonderful
views among olive and peach trees as well as several • Ejder Restaurant, Cengiz Topel Cad. no.9 E
excellent country hotels. PTT Karsisi (in the centre of the town), ☎ +90 232
8923296, e-mail: efes_ejder@yahoo.com. Very
• House of the Virgin Mary (Meryem Ana Evi), 10 friendly place with homemade vegetarian food. De-
km south on the hills is claimed to have been the licious.
house where Virgin Mary spend her last days in Eph-
esus. The Vatican declared this place as an official • Mehmet and Ali Baba Kebab House, Ataturk
Catholic pilgrimage site. mah. 1047 Sok. no: 4 (just across the road from
the otogar), ☎ +90 232 892-38-72. Cheap, big por-
• Pamucak beach tions and very tasty kebabs and desserts. Also com-
plimentary tea and they serve beer. 5TL-15TL.
In the city center there are other very interesting spots:
• The Byzantine citadel and the remains of St. John 42.8 Drink
Basilica. 8 TL admission.
• Dolphin Bar. This is a really cool place. Talip is a
• The Aqueduct.
great guy & the beer is good.
• The Museum of Ephesus. Contains objects found
• Pink Bistro Cafe. Ask Mesut the bartender to show
in the Ephesus excavation at the site. 8TL admis-
you some magic tricks and you'll be entertained for
sion.
hours. And try some of Simone’s famous çay!
• Rumeli, 25 Ataturk Mah Cengiz Topel Cadessi., ☎
42.5 Do 0 232 892 16 93. 24. A fantastic 24 hour restaurant
serving traditional Turkish food, normally for Turk-
A day trip to Şirince (8km out of Selçuk). Nestled in ish people. It isn't in any guide books as the owner
the hills, small little village, narrow winding streets, great relies on a heavy after midnight trade of locals - but
wines and lots of small cosy wine bars to try them all it is a must see. Different corners are assigned dif-
out in. Beware staying there though as accommodation ferent specialities, soup corner, vegetarian corner,
is very expensive (90euro)?? etc. The mushroom pide is especially good! cheap!.
• Pamuçak. The beach of Pamucak is pretty and

worth a trip. A dolmuş from the otogar will take
42.9 Sleep
you there for 3 TL.
Note: As of 2013, prices have been greatly inflated. Ex-
pect to pay about triple the prices mentioned here.
42.6 Buy Please remember that all free shuttles arranged by var-
ious hotels usually include a visit to a carpet or Turkish
• Double Knot Carpets, Corner of Cangiz Topel delight shop that pay commission to cover the costs of the
Cad and Namik Kemal Cad. Run by 20-something transport.
locals, this carpet shop is a great place to find a car-
pet for cheap (prices start under 100 Euro) or just • Urkmez hotel, ☎ +90 0232 892 6312. Namik Ke-
to have a cup of tea. Unlike the shops of Istanbul, mal Cad. 20. The Ürkmez Hotel is run by the multi-
the shopkeepers won't pressure you into buying any- lingual Ozkan Brothers (English, German, Spanish).
thing, and are glad to offer recommendations on lo- All rooms are newly decorated and comes with or-
cal restaurants and bars or just have a chat. thopaedic mattresses and most have A/C and private
42.10. GO NEXT 131
balconies. Starting from 11€p.p incl. breakfast buf- • Denizli — enroute to Pamukkale and Antalya
fet on the roof terrace.
• Bodrum — seaside route to Marmaris and Fethiye
• Amazon Pension, ☎ +90 0232 892 3215. Ataturk • Aphrodisias — To go by public transport, catch a
Mah 1054. Breakfast in the garden, free daily shuttle bus to Nazilli to arrive as early in the morning as
rides to Ephesus, Internet and book exchange. Free possible. There’s plenty of bus traffic along the high-
use of bicycle. way between Izmir, Aydin and Denizli all day long.
From Nazilli, catch a minibus to Karacasu—they
• The Australia New Zealand (Turkish) Guest- leave about every 30 minutes, and are especially re-
house. Check-out: 10:30. Has clean rooms with liable in the morning. From Karacasu there are sev-
private bathrooms. Very calm & great atmosphere, eral minibuses a day to Aphrodisias, leaving about
drinks and dinner on the roof-top terrace. Price every 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
includes breakfast. Offers complimentary pick-up
from Kusadasi and rides to Ephesus. Wifi free, laun-
dry 20 TL per load, bikes 2 TL/h or 15 TL/day. as
of 09/2013: 20€ (single), 25€ (double).
• Homeros Pension is an old house converted into

a pension which has been richly decorated by the
owner, who is a carpenter. The rooms are full
of charm and the meals, prepared by the sister
and mother of the owner, are very good. They
also provide free transportation to Ephesus and
back. Phone: 892 3995 and e-mail: home-
ros_turkey@hotmail.com
• Bella Hotel, Ataturk Mah. St. John Street No:7

Selcuk (200m from Otogar), ☎ +90 232 892 3944.
Small family run hotel with wonderful ceramic and
carpet / textile decorations. Very convenient loca-
tion. Excellent dinner on the roof terrace. Free
transport to and from Ephesus. Fax: 0090 232 892
0344 Email: info@hotelbella.com
• Atilla’s Getaway, info@atillasgetaway.com (2km
from Selcuk centre in the village of Acarlar), ☎ +90
(232) 892 3847. Has a spring water swimming pool
surrounded by fruit trees and gardens. Free shut-
tle buses to Selçuk/Ephesus, as well as free pick up
from Kuşadasi Ferry Port. 12 Euro.
42.10 Go next
• Izmir — enroute to Istanbul
• Bergama — Ancient Pergamon. Tours popularly in-
clude Ephesus and Bergama together.
• Sardis — Former capital of Lydia, and like Eph-
esus and Pergamon, one of the Seven Churches of
Asia, today notable for its Temple of Artemis, gym-
nasium, and synagogue.
• Didim where one can visit the three archeological
sites of Priene, Miletus and Didyma, all Greek or
Roman cities located a little bit south in the coast.
Several hotels and pensions offer this tour or you can
also rent a van, with driver or not, on your own.
Chapter 43
Şirince
Şirince, formerly Kirkince or Çirkince, is a village nes- 43.3 See

tled on the hills in Central Aegean Region, Turkey. It is
a small village which is famous for its wine and houses. Sirince’s local architecture, which nowadays is under le-
Sirince was a Greek village before the Turkish Indepen- gal protection, is well preserved. Some of the houses of
dence War. In 1923, Turkish and Greek governments the village are restored to their former glory, while some
exchanged the populations. Greek government exiled the others are on the edge of dilapidation. The village is quite
Muslims of Greece to Turkey, while the Turkish gov- a heaven for the photographer.
ernment exiled Greeks of Turkey to Greece. Şirince
forms the setting of Greek writer Dido Sotiriou’s—a na-
tive of Şirince—Farewell Anatolia, in which the events
around the Greco-Turkish War of 1919–1922 are de- 43.4 Do
picted through the eyes of a fictional character from Şir-
ince. Apart from the historical background of the village, there
are fantastic valleys to walk around. Olive groves, peach
Şirince today is very popular with Turkish tourists, espe-
gardens, vineyards... it’s Turkey’s Tuscany.
cially on weekends.
43.5 Buy
43.1 Get in
Wine, handicrafts, olive oil.
43.6 Eat
There are planty of restaurants in the village with reason-
able prices. They serve local specialties and grilled meat.
43.7 Drink
You can find alcohol in every restaurant. Every house,
on the other hand, makes its own wine. In addition to
homemade (grape) wines, Şirince is also well-known for
Şirince its fruit wines made of apple, berries or more unusual
types such as myrte. All through the village are shops
From Selçuk town (8 km away from Şirince), you can where you can put your wine tasting skills to the test.
take minibuses to the village, which cost 3 TL. There is a
minibus at every hour towards both directions.
43.8 Sleep
Several hotels and bed and breakfasts, mostly in reno-
43.2 Get around vated village houses, ranging in price from very basic to
luxurious. Nisanyan Hotel, comprising several historic
132
43.9. GO NEXT 133
houses as well as simpler cottages, is considered one of

the finest boutique hotels in the country. Also Gül Kon-
akları and Kırkınca Pension.
• Şirincem Pansiyon (along the main road at the en-

trance of the village), ☎ +90-537-831-82-97, e-mail:
sirincemali@gmail.com. Check-in: 9AM, check-
out: noon. They also have a restaurant across the
street with meals on the range of €5-7 available,
open 9AM-10PM. €25.
43.9 Go next
Chapter 44
Northern Aegean
Northern Aegean (Kuzey Ege) is the northern part of • Kaz Dağı National Park (Kaz Dağı Milli Parkı)
Aegean Region, Turkey. – Named Ida in ancient times, with its summit at
1,774 m above sea level, this is the highest moun-
tain in Troas, and according to Homer’s Iliad, this
44.1 Regions was where the Gods watched the Trojan War be-
ing fought below in the lowland. In Greek mythol-
ogy, it was also the venue of the first ever beauty
44.2 Cities contest in which Aphrodite beat Athena. The na-
tional park is rich in fauna and flora. Especially en-
• Akçay — town with an ice-cold seawater, and hub demic, rare, and endangered Trojan fir, also known
for visiting the waterfalls of Hasanboğuldu on the as Ida fir trees, are of interest. It’s possible to
hills pitch a tent or RV-camp within the park, but only
in designated areas. The park lies just north of
• Altinoluk — one of the major resort towns on the Edremit/Güre/Akçay/Altinoluk and is 92 km west
northern coast of the Gulf; the site of ancient An- of Balikesir.
tandros
• Assos, also known as Behramkale — a pleasant vil-
lage with stone houses and the temple to Athena with
impressing views over the Aegean
• Ayvalik — major town of the region with much el-
egant neo-classical/Greek architecture
44.4 Understand
• Babakale — a village on the westernmost point of
mainland Asia with a citadel More or less corresponding to the ancient region of Ae-
olia, this region, occupying northern and southern coasts
• Bergama — town near the well-preserved Roman of the large, V-shaped Gulf of Edremit (Edremit Kör-
ruins of Pergamon, as well as a great place for some fezi), is a less travelled alternative to the southern Aegean
authentic carpet shopping coast with silver-green olive groves everywhere. While
there is not much in the way of a big city or industry
• Burhaniye — slightly inland town with an archaeo-
in the region—except, of course, the occasional olive oil
logical museum and historical core
factory—most of the coast is heavily built up, especially
• Dikili — fishing town with a charming old centre of by summer houses of Turks from other regions. In fact,
cobbled streets, surrounded by rarely visited histor- the series of towns and summer houses lining the whole
ical sights (including one of the rare fully wooden coast from Küçükkuyu to Ayvalık can be argued to form
mosques) and a great nature one large conurbation, albeit one that is somewhat spaced,
low-rise, leafy, and fairly deserted in winter. However,
• Edremit — city near the regional airport take just one step inland, and you will quickly be amidst
grooves of centuries old olive and cypress trees, and pic-
• Güre — town with thermal springs
turesque villages with traditional stone architecture dot-
ting the hillsides—the ultimate Mediterranean landscape.
44.3 Other destinations The climate is slightly cooler than the south, but it almost
never snows here, neither.
• Bozcaada — island with attractive architecture and The pine-covered Mt Ida (Kaz Dağları) separates this re-
streetscape, a citadel and a Greek community gion from Southern Marmara to north.
134
44.13. GO NEXT 135
44.5 Talk
44.6 Get in
• Sole airport in the region is Edremit Körfez Air-
port (IATA: EDO) located south of Edremit.
• Highway numbered E87 connects Northern Aegean

with Çanakkale to the north and Izmir to the south.
It’s a quite winding and narrow road when pass-
ing through the Mt Ida (Kaz Dağları) when arriving
from north, although the pine woods which the high-
way traverses make it more appealing to drive (and
especially to ride) this stretch of road than it would
otherwise be.
• Ferries connect Ayvalik with the Greek island of
Lesvos daily (at least during the high season). A
round trip costs € 30/person.
44.7 Get around
44.8 See
44.8.1 Itineraries
• Along the Troad Coast — an itinerary connecting
Çanakkale in Southern Marmara with Assos via a
number of historical sites along the coast
44.9 Do
44.10 Eat
44.11 Drink
44.12 Stay safe
44.13 Go next
• Continuing along the coast to the north, you'll arrive
in Southern Marmara, while heading south makes
you get into Central Aegean.
Chapter 45
Akçay
Akçay is a town in Northern Aegean, Turkey. now Hasanboğuldu. Emine, upon hearing the death
of her lover, has also committed a suicide as well,
by hanging herself on one of the plane trees next to
the pond.
45.1 Understand
One of the popular summer resort towns lining the north-
ern coast of the Gulf of Edremit in a succession, Akçay
45.5 Do
stands out with its ice-cold seawater, due to the freshwater
discharge from the seabottom. 45.6 Buy
45.2 Get in 45.7 Eat
45.3 Get around 45.8 Drink
45.4 See 45.9 Sleep
• Hasanboğuldu (north of Akçay towards the moun-

45.9.1 Campgrounds
tains, at the end of a 5-km long paved road through
• Akcay Camping, Yeni Mahalle, ☎ +90 266 384 28
the village of Zeytinli—follow the signposts). An
18.
area of small waterfalls and quite deep ponds on the
hillside in verdant surroundings, Hasanboğuldu is a
popular local picnic and freshwater swimming spot • Gine Camping, Turgut Reis Caddesi, ☎ +90 266
(though, with a constant temperature of 7°C/45°F 384 11 34.
it’s just as, if not more, “refreshing” as the seawater
below at Akçay). However beautiful and peaceful • Pat Camping, Güneş Caddesi.
the place nowadays may be, there is a tragic love
story behind the name of the place, which literally • Saka Camping, Güneş Caddesi, ☎ +90 266 384 37
translates “Hasan was drowned": Hasan, a young 89.
farmer from the lowland village of Zeytinli, fell in
love with Emine, a sturdy maiden from the nomadic
tribes of the mountain. As a marriage between a
sedentary farmer and a nomad was frowned upon,
45.10 Connect
there was no way for Emine to move into Hasan’s
village, and as such Hasan would have to move to the 45.11 Go next
upland pastures. Emine’s family set a condition for
Hasan to fulfill, so that he could prove that he would
be hardy enough to overcome an austere mountain
lifestyle: He had to carry 50 kg of pure salt over
the mountains to Emine’s tribe. Having failed the
objection by knocking down at the halfway, Hasan
committed a suicide in one of the ponds in what is
136
Chapter 46
Altinoluk
Altınoluk is a town in Northern Aegean, Turkey. It’s lo-

cated on the northern coast of the Gulf of Edremit.
46.1 Get in
46.2 Get around
46.3 See
46.4 Do
46.5 Buy
46.6 Eat
46.7 Drink
46.8 Sleep
46.8.1 Campgrounds
• Antandros Camping, Boğa Mevkii, ☎ +90 266
378 53 61.
• Mertol Camping, Küçüksu Mevkii.
• Yesilcam Camping, Narlıaltı, ☎ +90 266 398 72

92.
46.9 Connect
46.10 Go next
137
Chapter 47
Assos
Behramkale is a beautiful hillside village of stone- philosophers Aristotales and Hermaios, a student of
built houses and cobbled alleys in the Turkish region of Platon.
Northern Aegean, overlooking the turquoise waters of
the Gulf of Edremit, facing the northern foothills of the
Greek island of Lesvos. The ancient incarnation of the 47.2 Get in
village, Assos, still reveals itself through the ruins of the
hilltop Temple of Athena, the defensive city walls still
surrounding a good deal of the village’s circumference, 47.2.1 By bus
and numerous other remnants of the olden times.
Frequent public buses run by Küçükkuyu Town Council
(Küçükkuyu Belediyesi) take pessengers from Küçükkuyu
(about 20 km to east) to Assos and cost around 3-4
47.1 Understand TL/person. There are also minibuses from Ayvacik to
the north.
47.2.2 By car
The village is connected to the main Çanakkale-Izmir
highway (numbered D550/E87) by a 20-kilometre-long,
narrow but tarmac road. This secondary road joins
D550/E87 near the town of Ayvacik (not to be confused
with Ayvalik, which is a couple of hundred kilometres
down south). Total distance from Çanakkale in the north
is about 100 km.
There is also another secondary road joining D550/E87
near Altinoluk in the east. This road is recommended for
travellers from more southern locations such as Izmir as it
Temple to Athena overlooking the Aegean shortcuts the mountain pass on the road north to Ayvacik.
It’s also possible to arrive from Gülpınar in the west,
This is a village that is consisted of two parts: the ‘real’ vil- which you can get to by following the coastal road south
lage on the top of a hill overlooking the sea, and a coastal of Canakkale (turn right to the direction of Bozcaada
part right down by the shore (which was the harbour of about 30 km south of Çanakkale). For more details on
the village in the past). Both parts are equally old and full this route, see the itinerary Along the Troad Coast.
of stone buildings with traditional Mediterranean archi-
tecture.
The village lived as Behramkale for centuries, and with 47.3 Get around
the advance of tourism in the 20th century, its ancient
name of Assos returned back to the surface. Today, The upper and lower parts of the village is connected to
highway signs and the like always refer to the village as
each other by a narrow, very steep, and part tarmac part
both (such as Behramkale-Assos), but travelling indus-cobbled road which can be taken in about 20 minutes on
try almost always refer to it as Assos only. It appears
foot. Alternatively, you can take Küçükkuyu Belediyesi
as Behram on some old maps. public buses from the stop at the entrance of the old town
The village was an important centre in ancient times. (next to the statue of Aristotales) to the waterfront—their
It had then a philosophy academy run by the famous last stop.
138
47.10. CONNECT 139
47.4 See While there are numerous secluded sites shaded by olive
trees, and offering great views of the sea and Lesvos
• Old town. Old part of the town with its grey/granite around the village that are good for wild camping, avoid
stone houses and cobbled steep alleys. the temptation to pitch a tent at the beach as the coast-
line is constantly patrolled by coast guard at night and
you wouldn't want to wake up in the middle of the night
• Temple to Athena (Athena Tapınağı) (on the top of
drowned by huge floodlights, mistaken as an illegal im-
the hill over the old town). This is the major attrac-
migrant trying to cross to Greece. The steep hills some
tion of the village. It dates back to the 6th century
distance behind the coastline is perfectly okay, though.
BC and has the first ever Doric columns (still stand-
ing) built on Asian soil. A splendid place to watch
the sun setting in the Aegean Sea. 5 TL/person. No
student discounts. 47.10 Connect
• Old bridge (next to the road north to Ayvacik, about Telephone code of the village is (+90) 286.
10 min on foot from old town). An old bridge dating
back to Ottoman times.
47.11 Go next
47.5 Do • Babakale, some 20 km to the west, on the edge of the
peninsula, is a village known for its well-preserved
• You may attend philosophy classes taking place in citadel which sits on a cape that is exactly the west-
the village every summer. They choose a different ernmost point of Asian mainland.
major subject to think and speak about every sum-
• Zeus Altar (Zeus Altarı), 4 km inland (look for the
mer.
signpost on the main highway) on the hills above the
• The sea there is unbelievably clean, so swimming is neighbouring village of Küçükkuyu to east, about
also a good idea. 25 km away from Assos, was where offerings to the
prime god of Greek pantheon was made in ancient
times. Other than a marble base, not much is left
from the actual altar, but the place is located in a lush
47.6 Buy forest and offers commanding views of the Aegean.
There are no supermarkets nor any ATMs in town. Only

one of the grocery stores accept credit cards, the one lo-
cated in the outskirt of the village, on the junction of the
roads leading to west (Gülpınar), north (Ayvacık), and
east (Küçükkuyu). Some fresh fruits/vegetables in addi-
tion to snacks, water, and drinks (alcoholic and soft alike)
can be found there.
On the alleys of old town, villagers sell local produce such
as thyme freshly picked from mountains around or castile
soap at stalls.
47.7 Eat
There are open-air fish restaurants on the shore.
47.8 Drink
47.9 Sleep
Most guesthouses (pansiyon) are located on the upper
part of the village, while most hotels are located on the
lower part.
Chapter 48
Ayvalik
Region which has achieved to conserve its traditional ar-

chitecture (to a high degree, that is), with the other such
town being Foça, which is located about 60 km north of
Izmir.
• Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma), ☎

+90 266 312 21 22.
48.2 Get in
48.2.1 By plane
The nearest airport is Edremit Korfez Airport(EDO)

Çınarlı (centre) and Saatli (right) Mosques, both former Greek
Orthodox churches which is 40 km distance and has direct flights from Is-
tanbul and Ankara. A larger and international airport,
Ayvalık is a city in Northern Aegean, Turkey. It’s lo- Izmir’s Adnan Menderes Airport(ADB) is 175 km away.
cated on the southern coast of the Gulf of Edremit (part
of Aegean Sea), across from the eastern coast of Greek
island of Lesvos, opposite its capital (Mytilene). 48.2.2 By train
The nearest station is Balikesir, on the line between Izmir

48.1 Understand (Basmane station) and Bandirma on the Sea of Marmara
(with fast ferry connections to Istanbul). There are two
Ayvalık was an important trade centre during Ottoman trains in each direction every day except Tuesday, when
times, it had an autonomous status and many European only one of the trains runs.
powers even set up consulates. The city then was almost Between Balıkesir and Ayvalık, the bus takes about 1 h
completely inhabited by Greeks, who were exchanged 45 min.
with Turks from Crete when a population swap was man-
dated between governments of Turkey and Greece in
1923. The fusion of local Greek and Cretan cultures 48.2.3 By car
caused the character of today’s Ayvalık: while most of
the physical historical heritage is clearly Greek, the every- The city is located close to (approx. 5 km away) main
day culture lived on the streets between those buildings, Çanakkale-Izmir highway (road number: D550/E87).
including the local food, is mainly Cretan. Those approaching from Istanbul may consider taking
one of car ferries to Bandirma to shorten total driving
Ayvalık’s ancient name was Kydonia. Although both Ky-
time.
donia and Ayvalık means ‘the place of quince’, the city is
rather known for (and indeed surrounded by) a seemingly
endless forest formed by olive trees. Olive has been im- 48.2.4 By bus
portant to Ayvalık in all ages, as it has been revered by
both former Greek residents and present Cretan ‘immi- Otogar (bus station) is located in town centre, near the
grants’ (who live in Ayvalık for at least three generations). waterfront. It’s about 15-20 minutes on foot away from
Ayvalık is one of two bigger towns in northern Aegean town square.
140
48.4. SEE 141
48.2.5 By boat of Ayvalik should carefully be examined for the art

of wood and stone. They can be seen on the back
Ferries connect Ayvalik with the Greek island of Lesvos alleys of town centre, on Alibey/Cunda island, and
daily during the high season. A round trip costs € 35/per- in Çamlık.
son, a one way trip is €29/person, tickets can be bought
from several different offices found on the main road
• Çamlık is the southern suburb of the town with
around the harbour in Mitylini - Lesvos. In low and shoul-
some magnicifent neo-classical manors located
der season however there are only 4 ferries per week.
amidst pine woods (which translates as çamlık in
Turkish, the origin of the name of the place). On a
nearby hilltop is the Devil’s Table (Şeytan Sofrası),
48.3 Get around a rock on which has a large footprint-like hollow,
which is said, according to the local folklore, to be
Local buses run frequently from Alibey Island(Cunda) to Devil’s footprint he left when he was “jumping” over
the center and from Ali Cetinkaya to Camlik districts. to Lesvos. It has a wonderful view of the coves and
As a more comfortable and faster option, “Dolmus” taxis islands below.
run from Alibey Island(Cunda) and from Ali Cetinkaya
to 41 Evler districts. There is also a ferry operating be-
tween Alibey Island(Cunda) and Ayvalik town center in • Saatli Camii — In the town centre, built by Greeks
the summer months. as a church -named Agios Iannis, it was converted
to a mosque after 1928. However, other than the
plaster on the frescoes on the inner walls, and the
thin and somewhat picknicky-looking minaret, no
48.4 See further additions made to the building. Its name
translates “mosque with clock” in Turkish literally,
referring to the clock located on one of its towers.
• Çınarlı Camii (Çınarlı Mosque) (close to Saatli

Camii). Former Agios Giorgis, this is another neo-
classical-Greek-church-turned-mosque in town cen-
tre. Its pink outside is even more finely decorated
with ornaments than Saatli Mosque.
• Taksiyarhis Church Built in 1873, Taksiyarhis

Church is the center of attention with its reliefs pic-
turing the life of Jesus Christ, the portraits os the
Saints and its interior marble design.
Waterfront of Cunda Island from the sea • Saint Nicola Church is on Alibey Island.
• Alibey (Cunda) Island A small road bridge con- • Moonlight Monastery (on Alibey/Cunda Island)
nects Lale Island which in turn is connected by a
causeway to the mainland (Ayvalik). There are
frequent dolmuses (shared taxis) and half hourly • Leka Monastery can be observed on the left side
buses (line #3 Hastane-Alibey Adası, they also stop of Dalyan Channel when entering the bay, amongst
at otogar) throughout the year, in addition, in sum- olive trees. Its architecture closely follows tradi-
mer, there are also small ferries carrying passengers tional monastery architecture as monks themselves
From Ayvalik to Alibey Island, on the hour. Many built it stone by stone.
churches and monasteries are located on the island,
the most famous being the Taksiyarhis Church. The • Sarimsakli Beach 8 km. south of the town, Sarim-
bell of the church stays at the Bergama Museum. sakli beach is 7 km. long and widens up to 100 me-
tres. Along the beach, there are a number of restau-
The island is also famous for its fish; you can see fish rants and hotels.
restaurants located next to each other by the seaside.
• Old Ayvalik Houses The old Ayvalik houses, many • Altinova Beach 13 km. south of the town, Altinova
of which are beautiful examples of neo-classical aris famous for its beach as well as picnic areas and its
chitecture, located on Alibey Island and in the town forest.
142 CHAPTER 48. AYVALIK
48.5 Do hotel on Cunda. Standard rooms offer French beds,

en-suite bathrooms, air-con, satellite TV, and wire-
• Around the outlying islands in the bay, especially in less internet. Carparking available.
the area off Güneş Island, Yuvarlak Island and Ker-
bela Rocks offers some diving opportunities. The • Otel Deniz, Cunda (on Cunda Island), ☎ +90
most popular area is the waters off Kiz Island with 266 327-10-12, fax: +90 266 327-18-72, e-mail:
interesting underwater fauna at a depth of 19 mt. bilgi@oteldeniz.com. Rooms with en-suite bath-
rooms, air-con, TV. Garden and/or sea view. Smok-
• Watch the sunset at the Devil’s Table (Şeytan ing and non-smoking rooms available.
Sofrası) on the top of the hill (south of the town)
overlooking the town, bay, coves, and the islands. • Mavi Pansiyon, 41 Evler Sardunya Sokak
No: 10, Çamlık, ☎ +90 266 312-48-88, e-mail:

48.6 Buy info@mavipansiyon.com. Guesthouse with garden
Everything related to olive: Olive oil, brined olives, • Selin Pansiyon, PTT arkası, Karantina sok. 3 (be-
castile soap… Take a stroll in the famous street market hind the postoffice), ☎ +90-530-468-38-48. €15.
“Persembe Pazari” on Thursdays in the narrow streets in
the back of the town center. • Sozer Motel, Camlik Mah. No: 71 (On the way
to Sarimsakli beaches 1.5 km from the center), ☎
+90 266 312-44-74. Clean, Modern rooms with
48.7 Eat shower and WC. Air Condition, TV, Fridge,Hair
Drier, Heaters, Hot Water, Wireless Internet, All
Local cuisine heavily features seafood and wild herbs, You Can Eat Breakfast.
served cooked or raw, usually dressed with olive oil. This
is a tradition largely unusual to the rest of the country, • Sarimsakli Apart Pansiyon, ☎ +90 266 324-11-
brought to town by Cretan immigrants. 11, e-mail: hakanbiret@biretemlak.com. Kahra-
manlar mah hürriyet cad, Guesthouse with garden
Local cuisine can be had at numerous restaurants both in
downtown and on Cunda Island.
• Ayvalik sarimsakli cunda, ☎ +90 266 324-11-
11, e-mail: hakanbiret@biretemlak.com. Sarım-
48.7.1 Budget saklı mah hürriyet cad, Guesthouse with garden
48.7.2 Mid-range
48.10 Stay safe
48.7.3 Splurge
48.11 Connect
48.8 Drink
(+90) 266 is Ayvalik’s telephone code.
48.9 Sleep
• Antikhan Guest House, Sakarya Mah.
48.12 Cope
Cumhuriyet Cad. 216, ☎ +90 266 312-46-10.
Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. A family-run 48.13 Go next
guesthouse in a lovely old Greek house, close to the
sea. 25 TL.
• Biret Pansiyon, 06 Gülbahar Sokak
No: 18, Merkez, ☎ +90 266 312-21-75, e-mail:

hakanbiret@biretemlak.com. Guesthouse with garden
• Casa di Ada, Üç Kuyular Caddesi No: 18/1 Alibey

Adasi / Cunda, ☎ +90 266 327-30-41. 6 bedroom
Chapter 49
Babakale
Babakale is a village in Turkish region of Northern 49.3 Get around

Aegean.
This is a village, where you can walk from one end to the
other in approximately 5–10 minutes.
49.1 Understand
49.4 See
Babakale sits on a cape that is exactly the westernmost
point of mainland Asia, the Cape Baba (Baba Burnu), • Citadel (Kale). The citadel of the village, which
which lies on the 26° 03' 50” E, i.e. at about the same dates back to 18th century and made of unique,
longitude with Helsinki, and Bucharest. local, somewhat shiny black rocks, sits directly on
Local story has it that the village was founded by prison- the westernmost tip of Asia over a cliff with a fair
ers who were pardoned in return for working at the con- drop to the sea and is the main attraction of the vil-
struction of the citadel of the village, and later joined in lage. Strategically located on northeastern Aegean,
by seamen, and their families. it was built to control the trade in the strait between
the mainland and the Greek island of Lesvos which
Most of the travellers who make it to Babakale visit it as is just around the horizon. A windy place with
a day-trip on their route along the Troad coast. some impressive views over the cliffs towards the
sea, though inner part of the citadel is used for lo-
cal weddings and celebrations of the village and thus
may be a little bit untidy with white plastic chairs and
49.2 Get in firepits. Free.
• Local architecture. Most of the village consists

• Ezine Birlik (, ☎ +90 286 618 10 11, e-mail: of fairly well preserved houses of stone architecture
info@ezinebirlik.com. ) provides buses to the vil- typical of the region. You will also notice a foun-
lage from Ezine, which is a short bus ride away from tain or two dating back to Ottoman period along the
Çanakkale, at a frequency of about once every two cobbled streets of the village.
hours every day. The buses run through the villages
at the backcountry of this Troad Peninsula, so ex-
pect to take the ride from Ezine to Babakale more
than an hour.
49.5 Do
• The village has only a single road getting in and

49.6 Buy
out: an 8 km-long, really narrow and winding tar-
mac, but heavily potholed road from Gülpınar, a 49.7 Eat
relatively bigger village in the uplands of the area.
To get to Gülpınar, you should either take the road
There are a few fish restaurants in the village.
to Bozcaada from south of Çanakkale, or head for
Assos first and then take westward road from there.
49.8 Drink
Some detailed maps also show a dirt road from Assos in
the east direct to Babakale, but according to locals that • Village coffeehouse (on the main square, just oppo-
road is not in a condition to be useful. site the gate of citadel). The local coffeehouse with
143
144 CHAPTER 49. BABAKALE
an open-air patio shaded by a huge grapevine, per-

fect to take a short break and watch around. 0.40 TL
for a glass of Turkish tea.
49.9 Sleep
Though Babakale is mainly visited as a day-trip from
nearby destinations, it is possible to overnight in one of
a couple of hotels in the village.
• Karayel Motel, ☎ +90 286 747-04-97. 20-room

hotel with wharf view and a restaurant at its top.
• Uran Motel, ☎ +90 286 747 02 18. Seven-room

hotel with wharf view. Also houses a restaurant.
49.10 Stay safe

Located just opposite the Greek island of Lesvos, thus on
the border of Europe, there is an illegal (and possible dan-
gerous for witnesses) immigration activity at the outskirts
of the village according to locals. Therefore don't stray or
wild camp too far from the village, especially not on the
coast — the dirt road following the coast east to Assos is
reported to be where this activity is concentrated most.
However, visiting the village itself and the tarmac road
leading to it is perfectly safe with not even the slightest
concern.
If wild camping, wild boars in the area may pose a (min-
imal) danger. If awake and out of your tent, standing up
on your feet seems to be enough to make them disperse
and run away from you.
49.11 Connect
The telephone code of the village is (+90) 286.
49.12 Go next
• The temple to Apollon (Apollon Smintheon) in
nearby Gülpınar (8 km north) is one of the most im-
pressive Roman ruins in the region.
• Most holidaymakers have their way to Assos, 20 km
to the east, after visiting Babakale.
Chapter 50
Bergama
Bergama is a city in Aegean Turkey, known for its inter- may have to wait 30-40 mins though as their departure
esting archaeological ruins from the ancient Roman city coincides with other bus arrivals. You can always take a
of Pergamon (a World Heritage site) and its wonderful taxi if you do not wish to wait.
center for walking around. The best and most convenient option from Eceabat or
Cannakale is to catch a Soma Sehayat bus which goes di-
rectly to the Bergama city center so you don't have to deal
50.1 Understand with the above ordeals.
The Truva Bus Company runs busses from Canakkale
Bergama is located in north western Anatolia, 16 km which take five hours (many stops) but be aware - they
from the Aegean Sea. It is a popular tourist destination drop you off on the highway from where you can walk to
due to its close proximity to the ruins of the ancient city the Otogar (you can see it on the other side of the high-
of Pergamon, and has a population of around 60,000. way) or take a taxi which will no doubt arrive in the bus’s
Pergamon (Ancient Greek: Πέργαμον or Πέργαμος), wake - price negotiable (YTL 10 was the best we heard
or Pergamum, was an ancient Greek city on a promon- about)
tory on the north side of the river Caicus (modern day
Bakırçay), that became the capital of the Kingdom of
Pergamon during the Hellenistic period, under the Attalid 50.3 Get around
dynasty, 281–133 BC. Pergamon was cited in the book of
Revelation as one of the seven churches of Asia. Today,
the main sites of ancient Pergamon are to the north and Most of the downtown/centrum is very navigable by foot.
west of the modern city of Bergama. In fact, walking is one of the pleasures of a visit to
Bergama. You can walk to all of the popular tourist desti-
nations from the center within 15 minutes, including the
Asklepion, The Acropolis (cable car), the Archaeology
50.2 Get in Museum and the Red Basilica/Hall.
The tourist destinations are quite spread out, though, so
From the Bayrampasa Otogar in Istanbul, it’s a 9 and a you may consider hiring a taxi to get to all the sites. They
half hours trip. Some travelers use the modern city of should be familiar with all of the sites and offer a price to
Izmir (less than 2 hours by bus) as a base for exploring see all of them.
Bergama and other sites nearby (Ephesus, Pamukkale and
Çeşme, among others) or the nearer town of Ayvalik (ap-
prox. 45 minutes).
50.4 See
The main bus terminal is in the city outskirt (about 7 kilo-
meters away from the city center), so you can either take
Bergama merits at least two days, although all of the sites
a taxi or the cheaper shuttle bus to get to the city centrum.
can be visited in one day with an early start. It’s a joy
But if you're coming from Istanbul and on a Metro Tur-
just to walk the streets. If you take the time to wander
izm bus, it goes to the city centrum (passing by the main
the cobbled streets you'll feel that every old home has a
bus terminal).
unique story to tell.
The Metro Turizm buses from Canakkale leave you on
the side of the highway, if you are dropped off on the
highway carefully walk across to the Otogar (you can 50.4.1 Akropol (Acropolis)
see it visually across the highway). Be careful as it’s a
busy highway with lots of traffic. There are free Metro To arrive, walk in the northeast direction (you will clearly
minibuses from the Otogar to Bergama city center. You see the Akropol on the hill). The cable car runs up east
145
146 CHAPTER 50. BERGAMA
tonius gave all the books of the library to Cleopatra as a

wedding gift. Pergamon’s library on the Acropolis (the
ancient Library of Pergamum) is the second best in the
ancient Greek civilization. When the Ptolemies stopped
exporting papyrus, partly because of competitors and
partly because of shortages, the Pergamenes invented a
new substance to use in codices, called pergaminus or
pergamena (parchment) after the city.
The building that has been restored at present is the
Temple of Trajan. Trajan started it but after his
death Emperor Hadrian (117-138) finished the temple in
Corinthian order and it was placed upon a terrace with di-
mensions of 68 × 58 m (223.10 ft × 190.29 ft). Attempts
have been continuing by the German archaeologists since
1976 to erect this temple which has 6 x 9 columns and a
peripteros plan (one row of columns around the temple).
It is completely marble.
The Theater of Pergamon, one of the steepest the-
aters in the world, has a capacity of 10,000 people and
was constructed in the 3rd century BC. The road in front
of the theater leads to the Temple of Dionysos (known
in Rome as Bacchus, god of wine). The temple, which
arouses interest because of the staircase in front with a
height of 4.5 m (14.76 ft) and 25 steps, has an exquisite
Restored ruins from the Acropolis of Pergamon
appearance.
The famous Altar of Zeus in Pergamon is on the south
side of the hill. Walking from the center should take no of the theater. Eumenes II (197-159 BC) constructed it
more than 15 minutes. Cable car roundtrip: 8 TL, En- as a memorial of the victory against the Galatians. This
trance fee: 25 TL. (see 'Discussion' of this listing for an Altar has the shape of a horseshoe and its dimensions are
“alternate” route to see the Akropol on the cheap) 36.44 × 34.20 m (119.55 ft × 112.20 ft). It is composed
of four parts and the high relieves on it describe the war
The best way to see the Acropolis is to only take the ca-
between the giants and the gods.
ble car up (they will try to sell you a return ticket, insist
on one-way) and then walk down the ancient road down The Altar which was taken away from Pergamon in 1871
via the Gymnasium. Ask someone how to get down the and carried to Germany by the German engineer Carl Hu-
hill via the Gymnasium and they should indicate the way. mann, is exhibited at the Museum of Pergamum in Berlin,
There are some great sites that you will miss if you take in a manner conforming to its original. Today the Turkish
the cable car down, and it’s a very easy walk for anyone in government is trying to get it back from Germany bring-
good health. You will come upon a building to the right ing the issue to the International Court of Justice in The
of the path with fantastically well-preserved mosaics and Hague.
other artifacts, as well as a few other sites and the Gym- On the south of the Altar, the Agora (market place) be-
nasium itself. When you come to the very bottom of the longing to the 2nd century BC, is situated. In the middle
hill you will find a space in the fence where you can exit of the Agora there is a small altar. Downwards in the
the area. Acropolis, the central city is placed.
In the Acropolis, the remains that you see on the left hand
side while going in are the monumental tombs or heroons
built for the kings of Pergamon during the Hellenistic pe- 50.4.2 Asklepion
riod. Shops are situated at their side. When you enter
the Acropolis, the remains seen at your left side are the To walk to the Asklepion, head west from the city center.
foundations of Propylon (monumental gates) which were As long as you start heading uphill, you're going the right
constructed by Eumenes II. When you pass to the square way. It’s a 15 minute walk from the center. You can just
surrounded with three stoas of the Doric order you will ask people if you are heading the right way. If you pass a
notice the ruins of the Temple of Athena, built during military base, you're good. Entrance fee: 20 TL. Closes
the time of Eumenes II in the 3rd century BC. It’s just at 7.
above the Theater. It is believed that Asklepion, built in the name of Aes-
The famous Library of Pergamon, which contained culapius, the god of Health and Medicine, has existed
200,000 books, was situated north of the square. An- since the 4th century BC. It contains premises such as
50.6. BUY 147
a small theater with a capacity of 3,500 people, rooms jor local event, generally celebrated with the attendance
where the patients were cured by the sound of water and of Turkish celebrities, singers, players, poets, and writers.
music, the temple of Asklepion and the library. Here, There is a lake just to the north of the Acropolis called
the dreams of the patients were analyzed by their doc- Kestel Barajı. If you go to the Acropolis, you cannot
tors (priests) 2000 years before Sigmund Freud did. One help but see it below. Looks like it has a nice island in
of the important personalities associated with the Askle- the middle that you can swim to. If you go exploring or
pion was Galen (Galenus) from the 2nd c. AD. Arche- swimming (if the water is clean), you should update this!
ology has found lots of gifts and dedications that peo- It looks like a nice place to get some sun and go swim-
ple would make afterwards, such as small terracotta body
ming. You can reach it by continuing to walk past the
parts, no doubt representing what had been healed. No- cable car up to the Acropolis.
table extant structures in the Asclepieion include the Ro-
man theater, the North Stoa, the South Stoa, the Tem-
ple of Asclepius, a circular treatment center (sometimes
known as the Temple of Telesphorus), a healing spring, 50.6 Buy
an underground passageway, a library, the Via Tecta (or
the Sacred Way, which is a colonnaded street leading to Bergama is renowned for its high quality carpets. There
the sanctuary), and a propylon. are approximately eighty villages that still weave Bergama
carpets. The history of carpet weaving in Bergama dates
back to the 11th century - when Turkish migration started
50.4.3 Red Basilica (Kızıl Avlu) to the area. Bergama carpets have almost always been
woven with wool - an attestation to the pastoral life style
You will pass this walking toward the Akropol cable car. of the Yörük clans populating the area at the time.
Sign on the road says “Bazilika (Redhall)". It looks like Although the history of carpet weaving in Bergama dates
a massive pile of red bricks. The huge structure was back to the 11th century, most surviving carpets do not
erected in the 2nd century under the reign of Hadrian age more than 200 years - mainly due to their wool con-
as a temple to the popular Egyptian god Serapis. It was tent. The oldest surviving Bergama carpets can be found
later converted into a Byzantine church. It consists of in mosques in and around Bergama, as well as the archae-
a main building and two round towers within an enor- ological museum in Bergama.
mous temenos or sacred area. In the first century AD, the
Christian Church at Pergamon inside the main building If you traveling by car, Kozak is worth a visit for their
of the Red Basilica was one of the Seven Churches to pine pistacho (cam fistigi). You may get nice homemade
which the Book of Revelation was addressed (Revela- wines, really good and not made for tourists but for local
tion 2:12). The forecourt is still supported by the 193 m people, so imagine how good!
wide Pergamon Bridge, the largest bridge substruction of
antiquity. Winter daily 8:30AM–5:30PM; summer daily
8:30AM–6:30PM. Entrance fee is 5 TL. 50.7 Eat
Nowadays, there is a mosque located in one of the build-
ings. Access to the mosque is not the same as for the There are plenty of doner salons and cafeteria style restau-
archaeological area. rants around town, most without a name. You'll be able
to find affordable and tasty food in any of these!
50.4.4 Archaeology Museum (Arkeoloji • Bergama Ticaret Odasi, ☎ +90 232 632. Ulucami
Muzesi) Mahallesi, Buyuk Alan Mevkii. - 9641.
• Les Pergamon, Kurtuluş Mah. Taksim Cd. 35
Located on İzmir Caddesi in the center of town. This mu- (200 m up a small alley from the Red Bazilika or
seum contains all of the many artifacts recovered in the 600 m from the cable car to the Acropolis), ☎ +90
archaeological digs at Pergamon. There is a copy of the 232 632-39-35. Part of the new boutique hotel of
altar of Zeus (original is in Berlin), and you will see that the same name, this restaurant offers a large vari-
the sculptures are related to those found in archaeological ety of delicious Turkish and foreign dishes. Beauti-
digs in Aphrodisias. 5 TL. ful views from the restaurant and the outside garden
located at the foot of the Acropolis hill. Also has
rooms in a renovated Ottoman-era school building,
50.5 Do with free wi-fi, available from €100 double. About
20-30 TL pp for a multi-course meal.
Between June 18–24, Bergama celebrates its annual festi- • Pala Kebap Salonu, Kasapoğlu Cd. No:4, ☎ +90
val “Bergama Kermesi”, which is already running into its 232 633 15 57. 10:00-16:00. This is where you
seventy-second anniversary. Bergama Kermesi is a ma- should eat famous and delicious Bergama köftesi
148 CHAPTER 50. BERGAMA
(Bergama meatball). About 10 TL pp for meatballs, • Odyssey Guesthouse, Abacihan Sokak. No:13
pilaki and ayran. (There is a free city shuttle (8AM to 5PM)
from the bus station to Soma Garage, which is
two blocks from Odyssey Guest House. Close
to Red Basilica), ☎ +(232) 631-3501, e-mail:
50.8 Drink info@odysseyguesthouse.com. Located in the heart
of Bergama’s Old Town. Archaeological sites are
Across the street from the Bergama Archaeology Mu- easily walkable from Odyssey because it is at the foot
seum there are several small restaurants where you can of the hill leading to the Acropolis and one block
find a tall beer for 4 TL. They share a common garden away from the Red Basilica. Nice terrace, lounge
with mature trees and pond. A good place to relax and areas, large book exchange, kitchen open for use,
watch the world go by. breakfast 7 TL, laundry, wireless in rooms. Single
45 TL, Double en suite 35 TL pp, Double shared 25
TL.
50.9 Sleep
• Gobi Pension, Zafer mahallesi Atatürk Bulvarı
no:18 (South of the otogar), ☎ +90 232 633 25 18, e-
50.9.1 Budget mail: gobipension@hotmail.com. A friendly family
pension is located in the heart of Bergama. It has a
• Citi Hostel, Bankalar Cad. Buzhane Çıkmazı No. kitchen, laundry service, and free wireless internet.
10 (Exit the otogar in the center (not the one by the Complimentary breakfast. Most of the rooms have
highway!) through the western exit (not the south- their own bathroom with a private shower, balcony,
ern exit). Walk the main road northward for about and air con. 500 m away from the Archaeology mu-
800 meters (around 10-15 minutes), taking a slight seum. Highest rated on Trip Advisor for Bergama.
right at the fork by the large(ish) square. The en- All rooms are in the budget range..
trance to the hostel is on the right side, after the Turk-
ish bath, next to a restaurant and opposite the AK-
BANK. If unsure, ask somebody for directions to the 50.9.2 Splurge
AKBANK, everybody knows it.), ☎ +90 232 633-50-
08, e-mail: citihostel@hotmail.com. Newly opened • Hera Hotel (Ask to get to Istiklal Meydani (old cen-
in June 2011. Breakfast included, free wi-fi, kitchen ter), and look for a sign near the Roman Bridge point-
open for use. Nice courtyard with huge TV, sofas ing the way.). One of the priciest in Bergama, with
and comfy chairs, orange tables and astroturf. Re- rooms to match. Lovely courtyard and terrace, in-
ally close to the archaeology museum. Clean rooms, credible breakfast included. Free wifi. Rooms are
but a little bit dark. Very relaxed Aussie-Turkish each named after a Greek god. Newly opened in
owner - one of the nicest, most helpful guys you'll 2011. Double starting at 100 Euro..
ever meet (and quite appropriately, his name really
does translate to the Turkish word for “Help!"), as
he'll practically bend over backwards to make sure 50.9.3 Camping
you have a good time in Bergama. 25/30 TL pp. for
double shared/private bathroom. Dorm 25 TL pp. If you are really looking to save money and have a tent, it
Triples for similar prices. would likely be possible to camp just west of town near
the Asklepion. There are plenty of fields, and it’s only
• Athena Pension, Barbaros Mahallesi Lokcuimam about 15 minutes from the center of town.
Cikmazi No.9 (From center, walk up to old city and
at Istiklal Meydani (old city centrum), look for the
signs for Athena Pension, or ask a local for direc-
tions, nearby Roman bridge), ☎ +90 232 633 3420, 50.10 Go next
e-mail: aydinathena@hotmail.com. In the middle
of the old part of historic Pergamon in an old Ot- • There buses direct to Istanbul that leave in the morn-
toman house. Very central but on a quiet alleyway ing and the evening (overnight). 50 TL with Metro,
yet near most of the sights of Bergama. Owner is 52 TL with Anadolu. Both have internet, leaving
incredibly nice. Free wifi, limited book exchange, around 9:00 and 20:00 from the otogar south of the
kitchen with a staff that insists on cleaning up after Archaeology museum, but also passes by the other
you, supermarkets close, tea/coffee free self-service, otogar further from town.
laundry facilities, fantastic breakfast. You might be
able to ask to sleep on the rooftop. Double 25 TL • If you didn't come by way of Izmir, you may con-
pp shared bathroom. Prices go up to 60 TL pp sin- sider visiting the center of Aegean Turkey, or head-
gle/private bathroom.. ing further south to Ephesus (it’s about 3 1/2 hours,
50.10. GO NEXT 149
making it a long day to see both sites, but it’s popu-

larly done).
• The Northern Aegean is a popular summer resort
area, and also one in which you can visit several no-
table historic sites.
• If you're visiting the Seven Churches of Asia, you

might consider making a loop around Izmir, head-
ing first to Akhisar, Sardis, Alaşehir, and Denizli,
before heading to Izmir via Ephesus.
Chapter 51
Burhaniye
Burhaniye is a city in Northern Aegean Region, Turkey. stonemasons who built the place. It’s surrounded
by pleasant narrow cobbled alleys which are also
worth a look, lined by somewhat dilapidated histor-
51.1 Get in ical houses.
51.2 Get around 51.4 Do
51.3 See While the town centre of Burhaniye is slightly inland,

good sandy beaches can be found at nearby Ören and
Pelitköy.
51.5 Buy
51.6 Eat
51.7 Drink
51.8 Sleep
51.9 Connect
• Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma), ☎
+90 266 416 35 00.
51.10 Go next
A street in the old town of Burhaniye; Hacı Ahmet Mosque is at

the far end of the street
• Hacı Ahmet Mosque (Hacı Ahmet Camii). Built in

1798, this building superficially resembles a Greek
church and as such it might be mistaken for a church-
turned-mosque, which are quite usual in western
Turkey. However, this was built as a mosque orig-
inally, and the catch is that it was the local Greek
150
Chapter 52
Dikili
Dikili is a coastal town and a district of İzmir Province in the construction

in the Aegean Region of Turkey. The district is quite pic- Dikili also has a rich history extending back to prehistory,
turesque both along its shoreline and in its interior parts and the ancient and as yet unexplored site of Atarneus is
and is a popular summer resort. Dikili is a seaside fish- located nearby. The site is called “Atarna” locally.
ing town that is made up of mainly holiday villas and a
few hotels. The charming centre with cobbled streets has A small islet within Dikili district (called Garip Adası lo-
restaurants, bars and shops. cally, with ancient sources also citing the name Argounis-
sai) made international headlines in April 2007. The islet
is offered for sale by its proprietors and The Guardian
reported the Greek islanders of Lesbos raising money
52.1 Get in among themselves to buy the islet.
The scenery consists of mountains, olive groves, vine-
The center town of Dikili is situated at about 120 km (75
mi) north of İzmir, served by a good road. The notable yards and cotton fields. See the people working the land;
horses and carts are still widely in use. Alternatively, how
township of Çandarlı (ancient Pitane) is a depending cen-
ter and is located close to Dikili. about the sight of a tractor with about 20 workers hang-
ing on for dear life. This is where you start to get a feel
Dikili has a fine port large enough to accommodate three for real Turkish life.
passenger ships simultaneously, and the port has good
land transport connections.
The drive into Dikili from Izmir (once out of the city)
offers some spectacular scenery. For most of the journey
52.4 Do
it is a straight road. Dikili becomes largely deserted in the
winter, except for the die-hard residents that live there all Many cruise ships call at Dikili as a base for visits to
year round. Pergamon .
You can get in by boat from the Greek island Lesvos.
52.5 Buy
52.2 Get around
52.6 Eat
52.3 See
eat fish, vegetables and mezes. drink raki (turkish ouzo)
The whole area of the district abounds in places of nat- whilst watching sun going down...
ural beauty as well as spots of historical interest. There
is a crater lake in Merdivenli village, and ancient caverns
in Demirtaş and Delitaş villages as well as pine forests
extending towards the Madra Stream. The area is also 52.7 Drink
famous for its thermal springs, which are in Nebiler,
Bademli and Kocaoba villages. Furthermore, the beaches
in Bademli and Denizköy localities are important touris-
52.8 Sleep
tic attractions of the region.
There are a few hotels, pensions and private villas.
Another must see is the Merkez Mosque which is a rare
example of a wooden construction dating from 1789. Its
particularity is in having been built without using any nails • Villa Hanorah.
151
152 CHAPTER 52. DIKILI
There are several Hotels and Pensions in Çandarlı that

you can stay for very low prices. Candarli is about 15
minutes to Dikili by bus. The hotels in Çandarli and their
phone numbers are listed below for further information
and reservation :
Hotel Samyeli 40 beds - +90 (232) 6733428
Simay Motel 37 beds - +90 (232) 6731101
Emirgan Motel 70 beds - +90 (232) 6732500
Philippi Pansiyon 26 beds - +90 (232) 6733053
Tuana Pansiyon 24 beds - +90 (232) 6730315
Senger Pansiyon 20 beds - +90 (232) 6733117
Oral pansiyon 29 beds - +90 (232) 6733122
Gül Pansiyon 20 beds - +90 (232) 6733347
Bağış pansiyon 40 beds - +90 (232) 6732459
52.9 Go next
Chapter 53
Edremit
Edremit is a city in Northern Aegean, Turkey. It’s lo- 53.9 Connect

cated a few kilometres inland from the tip of the Gulf of
Edremit, a large indentation of the Aegean Sea. • Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma), ☎
+90 266 384 11 13.
53.1 Get in
53.10 Go next
53.1.1 By plane
Edremit Körfez Airport (IATA: EDO) is located in

south of Edremit.
• Edremit Körfez Airport (Edremit Körfez

Havaalanı), ☎ +90 266 312 11 30. Flights
from Istanbul-Atatürk by Atlasjet
53.2 Get around
53.3 See
• Edremit Museum (Edremit Müzesi).
53.4 Do
• Edremit has a thermal spring (kaplıca) named Der-

man nearby.
53.5 Buy
53.6 Eat
53.7 Drink
53.8 Sleep
153
Chapter 54
Güre
Güre is a town in Northern Aegean, Turkey.
54.1 Get in
54.2 Get around
54.3 See
54.4 Do
• Thermal springs (Ilıca) – Güre has thermal springs.
54.5 Buy
54.6 Eat
54.7 Drink
54.8 Sleep
54.8.1 Campgrounds
• Camlibel Camping, Ilıca İskelesi, ☎ +90 266 384
12 47.
54.9 Connect
54.10 Go next
154
Chapter 55
Southern Aegean
Southern Aegean (Güney Ege) is the southern part of the

Aegean Region, Turkey.
55.1 Regions
55.2 Cities
• Akyaka — coastal town on the tip of Gulf of
Gökova, with beautiful traditional architecture
• Bitez — one of the least developed towns along

the coast of Bodrum Peninsula, and one of the
windiest—windsurfing is the main beach activity
here
• Bodrum — trendy resort town featuring a citadel,

Roman ruins, and trendy clubs
• Datça — unspoilt local resort on the Datça Penin-

sula, nearby Knidos forms the boundary between Travetines of Pamukkale
Aegean and Mediterranean proper
• Didim — resort town with a large population of

British expats, centred around the colossal Temple • Aphrodisias — one of the best preserved Roman
of Apollo of the ancient oracle of Didyma cities in Turkey, much less crowded than some bet-
ter known sites
• Denizli — relatively big city inland, hub for visiting
Pamukkale
• Pamukkale — the white travertines
• Gümüşlük — village on Bodrum Peninsula mainly
frequented by bohemians
• Muğla — pleasant inland city with a well-preserved 55.4 Understand

old quarter
• Turgutreis — on the peninsula’s western tip, this is Essentially a northwestern extension of Mediterranean
the second largest town in the Bodrum Peninsula af- coast, this region has the typical “Turkish blue coast” –
ter Bodrum itself with mountains covered by pine forests descending right
to the sea level. Historical names for this region include
• Yalıkavak — village on Bodrum Peninsula Caria.

55.5 Talk
• Altinkum
155
156 CHAPTER 55. SOUTHERN AEGEAN
55.6 Get in
• International airport of the region is located in
Bodrum.
• Ferries connect most towns on the coast to the near-
est respective islands belonging to the Dodecanese
island group of Greece.
• Aydin and Denizli has daily train services from

Izmir.
• A motorway connect the region with Izmir in the
north. D400 connects Fethiye with Antalya in the
east through Lycian coast.
55.7 Get around
55.8 See
55.8.1 Itineraries
55.9 Do
55.10 Eat
55.11 Drink
55.12 Stay safe
55.13 Go next
Chapter 56
Akyaka
Akyaka is a village in the province of Mugla in Turkey.

It lies on the coast of Gulf of Gökova, an indentation of
Aegean Sea.
56.1 Get in
The town lies close to the highway connecting Mugla
(north) and Marmaris (south). It’s about a 20-25 min
drive away from Marmaris.
56.2 Get around
56.3 See
• Buildings that maintain the traditional architec-
ture.
56.4 Do
56.5 Buy
56.6 Eat
56.7 Drink
56.8 Sleep
• Kerme Ottoman Konak Boutique Hotel, Akyaka,
☎ +90 252 243-58-74. Check-in: 2PM, check-out:
noon. € 60.
56.9 Go next
157
Chapter 57
Aphrodisias
disias.
The city was built near a marble quarry that was exten-
sively exploited in the Hellenistic and Roman periods,
and sculpture in marble from Aphrodisias became famous
in the Roman world. Many examples of statuary have
been unearthed in Aphrodisias, and some representations
of the Aphrodite of Aphrodisias also survive from other
parts of the Roman world.
As many pieces of monumental quarried stone were
reused in the Late Antique city walls, many inscriptions
could and can be easily read without any excavation;
the city has therefore been visited and its inscriptions
recorded repeatedly in modern times, starting from the
early 18th century.
The first formal excavations were undertaken in 1904-
5, by a French railroad engineer, Paul Augustin Gaudin.
The most recent, ongoing excavations are under the aegis
of New York University. The findings reveal that the lav-
ish building programme in the city’s civic center was ini-
tiated and largely funded by one Gaius Julius Zoilus, a
local who was a slave of Gaius Julius Caesar, set free by
Octavian. When Zoilus returned as a freedman to his
native city, endowed with prestige and rich rewards for
Tetrapylon, the monumental entrance gate to Aphrodisias his service, he directed it to align with Octavian in his
power struggle against Mark Antony. This ensured Oc-
Aphrodisias (sometimes Afrodisias) is located inland tavian Augustus’s lasting favor in the form of financial
in the Southern Aegean region of Turkey, in Aydin privileges that allowed the city to prosper.
province, about 30 km west of Denizli (but with no di- The site is in an earthquake zone and has suffered a great
rect road connection). As an archaeological site, it con- deal of damage at various times, especially in severe tem-
tains some of the most impressive Roman ruins in Turkey, blors of the 4th and 7th centuries. An added complication
and has perhaps offers a greater value than Ephesus. The was that one of the 4th century earthquakes altered the
nearby village is named Geyre, less than 10 km south of water table, making parts of the town prone to flooding.
Karacasu. Evidence can be seen of emergency plumbing installed to
combat this problem. Aphrodisias never fully recovered
from the 7th century earthquake, and fell into disrepair.
57.1 Understand Part of the town was covered by the modern village of
Geyre; some of the cottages were removed in the 20th
century to reveal the older city. A new Geyre has been
Aphrodisias (Greek: Ἀφροδισιάς, Aphrodisiás) was a built a short distance away.
small city in Caria, near the southwest coast of Asia Mi-
nor. Its site is located near the modern village of Geyre,
Turkey, about 230 km from İzmir. Aphrodisias was
named after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, who
had here her unique cult image, the Aphrodite of Aphro-
158
57.2 Get in 57.4 Get around
57.2.1 By bus tour There is parking 200 metres outside the entrance, on the
other side of the main road - the fee is 7 TL. There is also
another carpark in the village of Geyre, but they charge 7
The easiest option is to join a bus tour from one of the
TL, which includes the parking fee and the fare for a ride
travel agencies in Pamukkale for 30 TL pp (usually a min-
to Aphrodisias. The attendant there might try convincing
imum of 4 people is required). They depart at 9:30 in the
you that the ride offered is the only easy way to get to the
morning and come back to Pamukkale at 15:30, so you
ancient city, but this is obviously not true — Aphrodisias
have about 3hrs to spend at a site.
is just a short walk from there. Alternatively you can just
There are no travel operators in Denizli organizing tours park in one of the close by side streets for free.
to Aphrodisias. However, you can contact the ones from
The area can only be explored on foot, but it is mostly flat
Pamukkale, for instance, you can try the following: Her-
and wearing sandals would not be a problem. You can
mosa tours: +90 258 272 2666, Pamukkale tours +90
see the whole area in 2 hours, but it is best to go slow and
258 272 3434 , or any other you'll be able to find online.
take 3 or more hours.
And they will pick you up from your Denizli hotel.
57.5 See
57.2.2 By bus
You will want to leave at least 3 hours to see the site. All
From Denizli you can patch together minibuses to Nazilli locations are easily walkable and within a square kilome-
and on to Aphrodisias (buses going from Nazilli to Geyre ter of area. Many tour groups pass through, so an in-
or Tavas will pass by Aphrodisias). dependent visitor would best either see the area earlier in
Alternatively, take Denizli-Tavas minibus and then hitch- the morning and visit the museum afterward, or start with
hike remaining 30km to Aphrodisias. the museum later in the afternoon (3-4 pm) and wander
around the ruins until the park closes at 7pm (loosely en-
forced) to avoid crowds. The area is lovely around sunset.
57.2.3 Hitchhiking
57.5.1 Aphrodisias Museum
Hitchhiking into Aphrodisias is not difficult. Starting
early, it is entirely possible to start from Fethiye and hitch On site, entrance free with entrance to park. Showcasing
to Aphrodisias via Muğla and Tavas and have a few hours an incredibly wide range of sculptures, reliefs, and other
to see Aphrodisias before it closes. Aphrodisias is just off artifacts recovered from the area. You can easily spend an
of the road, and you can leave your bags with the security hour in here admiring the sculptures from the renowned
in the museum. If you chat with the security guards for Aphrodisias school.
a bit, they will make sure you have a place to pitch your
tent.
57.5.2 Temple of Aphrodite
The Temple of Aphrodite was a focal point of the town,
57.2.4 By car but the character of the building was altered when it be-
came a Christian basilica.
To drive, you will first have to arrive at the city of Nazilli
to the northwest or Tavas to the southeast. From these
cities, take road D585 and you will see signs showing the 57.5.3 Sarcophagi
way to arrive. From Denizli, it is fastest to arrive from
Tavas. Sarcophagi were recovered in various locations, most fre-
quently decorated with designs consisting of garland and
columns.
57.3 Fees/Permits 57.5.4 Bouleuterion

It costs 15 TL (July 2014) for entrance to Aphrodisias, The Bouleuterion (Council House) is centered on the
including museum entry. The hours of the park are from north side of the North Agora. As it stands today, it con-
8:30 - 7 during the high season, with the museum closing sists of a semicircular auditorium fronted by a shallow
at 6:30 (a security guard stays in the museum all night). stage structure about 46 m wide. The lower part of the
160 CHAPTER 57. APHRODISIAS
auditorium survives intact, with nine rows of marble seats recorded by the New York excavators, many of them re-
divided into five wedges by radial stairways. The seat- used in the city walls. Most inscriptions are from the Im-
ing of the upper part, amounting to an additional twelve perial period, with funerary and honorary texts being par-
rows, has collapsed together with its supporting vaults. ticularly well-represented, but there are a handful of texts
The plan is an extremely open one, with numerous en- from all periods from the Hellenistic to Byzantine.
trances at ground level and several stairways giving access For more information, good links to visit are:
to the upper rows of seats. A system of massive parallel
buttresses shows that the building was originally vaulted.
The auditorium would have been lighted by a series of • Aphrodisias in Turkey. History and the archeo-
tall, arched windows in the curved outer wall. Seating logical sites in Aphrodisias Turkey.
capacity can be estimated at about 1750. • NYU at Aphrodisias. Site for the New York Uni-
versity research at Aphrodisias, with lots of great in-
formation about the site itself.
57.5.5 Sebasteion
Currently under active restoration/replication by NYU,

located close to the museum. The Sebasteion, or Augus-
57.6 Buy
teum, was jointly dedicated, according to a 1st-century
inscription on its propylon, “To Aphrodite, the Divine There is a museum shop on site. You can also buy maps
Augusti and the People”. A relief found in the ruins of the of the area, not included in the entrance fee, for about 5
south portico represented a personification of the polis TL.
making sacrifice to the cult image of Aphrodite of Aphro-
disias, venerated as promētōr, “foremother” or “ancestral
mother”. This connection between the goddess and the 57.7 Eat
imperial house was also a particularly politic one at the
time, as the Gens Julia - the family of Julius Caesar, Octa- There is a cafe on site. Besides that, there are a few restau-
vian Augustus, and their immediate successors - claimed rants outside the park across the road from the entrance,
divine descent from Venus/Aphrodite. and up to a few kilometeres northwest on the road outside
Aphrodisias.
57.5.6 Stadium
Probably the best preserved of its kind in the Mediter-

57.8 Sleep
ranean except, perhaps, for the Sanctuary of Apollo at
Delphi. It measured 262 by 59 m and was used for ath- There are a few options for sleeping around Aphrodisias.
letic events until the theatre was badly damaged by a 7th-
century earthquake, requiring part of the stadium to be • Aphrodisias Hotel/Restaurant/Camping (Leav-
converted for events previously staged in the theatre. ing the park to the left (northwest), about 1 km down
the road.). Inexpensive place to stay.
57.5.7 Agora • Anatolia Restaurant/Bar/Camping (Leav-

ing the park to the left (northwest), about 2 km
There are two agora, the South Agora being impressively down the road.), ☎ 256 - 448.81.38, e-mail:
preserved and holding around 7,000 people. anatolya@anatoliaturizm.com.tr.
• Altinuç Restaurant/Camping (Leaving the park to

the left (northwest), about 8 km down the road.), ☎
57.5.8 Bathhouse 256 441 2829.
A nicely preserved building showing different room for

changing and bathing. An important civic center and 57.8.1 Camping
place of leisure for the denizens of the city.
If you are looking to camp in a tent for minimal/no cost,
you can do so outside the entrance to the park by the
57.5.9 Inscriptions cemetery. Closer to the road near the intersection of the
main (only) road into Geyre, there is a source/faucet of
The quality of the marble in Aphrodisias has also resulted spring water for hand/foot/face washing. Water is good
in an unusually large number of inscribed items surviv- to drink. You can likely ask permission from either the
ing in the city. Upwards of 2000 inscriptions have been security in the museum around the time it closes (about
57.9. GO NEXT 161
6:30) or at the military (jandarma) post just outside the

entrance. They will show you to an area. Another option
would be to just walk out to one of the many fields around
the park and pitch your tent under one of the many olive
trees, or just ask permission from a family in the area.
57.9 Go next
If you do not have your own transport, you will likely re-
turn with the tour you came with. To get to Denizli, look
for minibuses toward Tavas and transfer there at the bus
station (otogar). Otherwise, minibuses run along the road
to the larger towns north and south of the area, perhaps
1-2 per hour. Park staff will likely be able to help you.
Hitchhiking out of Aphrodisias should not present much
challenge.
Chapter 58
Bitez
Bitez is a town near Bodrum, along the Southern Aegean

coast of Turkey.
58.1 Understand
8–10 km out of Bodrum proper (although only 4 km away
from Bodrum’s outer neighbourhoods due to the mas-
sive growth it received with tourism developments), Bitez
(pronounced bee-tehz) is one of the most rural and qui-
etest towns lining the coast of Bodrum Peninsula.
58.2 Get in
58.3 Get around
58.4 See
58.5 Do
The cove on which Bitez lies is known as one of the best
windsurfing areas in the peninsula.
58.6 Buy
58.7 Eat
58.8 Drink
58.9 Sleep
58.10 Connect
58.11 Go next
162
Chapter 59
Bodrum
Bodrum is a town on the southern Aegean coast of able fragments everywhere in the town -and a playground
Turkey, popular with tourists from all over the world. for rich Turks and an array of foreign visitors. It is one
of the centres of the Turkish Tourist industry and is the
market town for the Bodrum Peninsula which consists of
59.1 Understand a number of towns and villages nestling on the edge of
the Coast. Until the 1960s the town was a fishing village
which changed when a number of Turkish intellectuals
gathered and wrote about Bodrum. Most notable of the
these was Cevat Sekir 'The Fisherman of Hallikarnassus’,
an Oxford Educated Turk who devoted his time to writing
and planting numerous plants and trees which continue to
dot the landscape of the Town. His book the 'Blue Voy-
age' describing gullet trips around the Turkish coast, and
his descriptions of the astoundingly clear Blue Seas of the
Aegean and the delights of a trip around the coasts ad-
jacent to Bodrum inspired a whole generation who have
come to emulate his trips. Bodrum has therefore grown as
a sailing destination and thanks to its warm but not humid
Bodrum Castle / the Castle of St Peter
climate has become a top destination for visitors who en-
joy the combination of the ancient past together with all
Bodrum is the site of the ancient city of Halikarnas- the usual tourist paraphernalia. There are large numbers
sus, the location of the famous Mausoleum of Halikar- of shops and restaurants - from humble cafes to exquisite
nassus (built after 353 BCE) - one of the Seven Wonders Turkish cuisine served by an array of waiting staff.
of the Ancient World. Unfortunately, the ancient mon-
ument was destroyed by earthquakes in the Middle Ages Modern Bodrum strangely seems to have two contrasting
- some of the remnants can be seen in London’s British sides to it.
Museum. The east half of the town has a long thin but reasonable
beach, which has been added in the last few years, with
the authorities trying and largely succeeding in creating a
good beach. Behind the beach lay all the bars, restaurants,
and night clubs that are typical of Mediterranean resort
towns. This means open fronted bars that do not come
alive until 10PM when everybody goes out. As well as
some nice beach fronted bars (e.g. cafe del mar being a
reasonably chilled out and attractive bar, with attractive
staff so that helps) it also has some terrible ones, if you
do not like the hard drinking culture of some tourists. It
does have some reasonable clubs. Halikarnas being the
obvious one as it is huge (4000 people). It also is mostly
outdoors and hosts foam parties on regular occasions.
The other half of the town is the west side. This mainly
The waterfront revolves around the Marina and Yacht Club. Here life is a
little more sedate with shops catering mainly to those who
Bodrum is a fascinating place as it has a pleasing con- have stepped off their boats. Expensive supermarkets
trast between the Ancient city - where there are discern- with proper wine and olive oil as well as the obligatory
163
164 CHAPTER 59. BODRUM
Helley Hanson to be able to purchase your new jacket. 59.2 Get in

There are a number of nice restaurants if you look hard
enough and some good clothes shops. Like all resorts be-
59.2.1 By plane
ing directly on the sea front increases the prices. During
the evenings there is a wonderful atmosphere as the locals
Bodrum-Milas airport is 35 km away from Bodrum and
and tourists all seem to promenade along the sea front.
many flight companies operate charter flights to Bodrum
There are many cultural events - notably the Ballet Festi- in Summer season. There are also Dalaman and İzmir
val in August, a wide range of pop concerts at the Castle Airports which are 3 hours far away from Bodrum.
or in the Amphitheatre which has been restored in the last
From the Airport: There are Havas Shuttle services
few years, having been built some 2,000 years ago.
in accordance with each planes’ arriving to the domestic
lines of Bodrum Milas Airport. Ticket Fee from airport
to Bodrum Center is 17.00 TL, journey takes 40–45 min-
59.1.1 History
utes.
According to Herodotus, born B.C. 484 in Halikarnas- Food and drink costs at the airport are astronomical. For
sus (ancient name for Bodrum), the city was founded example, a can of soda costs about €5 whereas it would
by the Dorians. Megarans enlarged the city B.C. 650 be a fraction of that in the city. Take this into account
and changed its name to Halikarnassus, and then Persians before arriving at the airport.
started to rule the city from B.C. 386
Halikarnassus had its glorious days, when it was the cap-
59.2.2 By boat
ital of the Karia B.C. 353. One of the Seven Wonders
of the Ancient World, the Mausoleum, was built there by
Bodrum is reached by sea from Kos and Rhodes (Greek
Artemisia for the memory of King Mausolos.
Islands). Daily ferryboat services from/to Cos and
After the Roman and Byzantium rule for ages, Ottomans Rhodes to Bodrum are available during the summer sea-
have conquered the city in 1522, during the time of Su- son .
leyman, The Magnificent. The city was named “Bodrum”
after the Turkish Republic was declared.
59.2.3 By bus
59.1.2 Mausoleum There are many intercity bus companies which oper-
ate bus services to Bodrum from major cities of Turkey
Known as one of the Seven Wonders of The Ancient such as Istanbul, Ankara, İzmir, Antalya, Adana, Bursa,
World, The Mauseloum was built by Artemisia, the sister Konya, etc... After arriving at any of these cities, Bodrum
and the wife of King Mausolos, B.C. 355. is reached by bus. By bus: from Istanbul to Bodrum 13
This work of art, stood on a 21 stepped pyramid which hours; İzmir to Bodrum 4 hours; Ankara to Bodrum 10
was 46 metres high and carried a horse car symbolising hours, Antalya to Bodrum 7 hours.
victory on it, had 36 marble columns in Ionian style. Sometimes, if you are arriving from a very distant des-
The mauseloum was destroyed in an earthquake; and the tination (such as Cappadocia), the bus will not arrive di-
ruins were used in building of the Halikarnassus Castle. rectly to Bodrum (inquire about this when you purchase
Many statues and reliefs from the mauseloum were car- your ticket as they don't always bother to let you know
ried to The British Museum by archeologist C. Newton, and some buses are direct while other are not) but rather
in 1856 and now lies there for public viewing. arrive at a nearby town (usually Mugla) where you will
change to a smaller bus which will take you directly to
the central bus station in Bodrum. The original bus ticket
59.1.3 Climate you purchased to Bodrum will usually include this leg of
the trip in the price so make sure you do not pay again
During winters and springs, November through April, the when the ticket seller comes by to collect the ticket fee on
weather in Bodrum is generally very good with a few the smaller bus.
heavy shower periods, usually taking place in November,
and then some time after new year and the last one in
March/April. February is especially pleasant with not too 59.3 Get around
cold nights and the almond blossoming and the abundance
of wild ruccola all over the place. The best way to get around is by dolmuş, (a shared taxi
Summers, arriving after April, are as hot as it can get following a fixed route) one of the cheapest ways of trans-
(expect temperatures higher than 40 C) and sunny with port in Turkey. Additionally there is a bus service that
no rain. runs in Bodrum, where you can ride for 3 lira.
59.5. DO 165
59.4 See in 1775. There is also a tower at the Ottoman Ship-

yard and Ottoman cemetery. The tower is used for
variety of art exhibitions nowadays. Free admission.
59.4.1 Landmarks
• Bodrum Castle/Castle of St Peter (Bodrum
59.4.2 Museums and Galleries
Kalesi), ☎ +90 252 316 25 16. Tu-Su 9.00 - 16.30.
Built from 1402 by the Knights Hospitaller, the Cas- • Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology
tle is easily the most prominent landmark in the city. (Inside Bodrum Castle), ☎ +90 252 316 25 16. Tu-
The castle now operates as a museum, with the fo- Su 9.00 - 16.30. Established in 1961, this great
cus on the Museum of Underwater Archaeology (see museum has won numerous awards, and displays
below). It is one of the world’s best preserved mon- amazing finds from underwater excavations along
uments dating back to medieval times. The super- the Turkish coast. Includes the famous Uluburun
vision of the construction of the castle was assigned Shipwreck, one of the earliest and richest wrecks
to the German architect Heinrich Schlegelholt, so yet discovered. Not to be missed. 20 TL.
that the latest developments in castle design were in-
cluded. The castle is quite pretty and the views are • Zeki Müren Art Museum, Zeki Müren Caddesi,
spectacular. 20 TL. No:19, ☎ +90 252 313 1939. Tu-Su 9.00 - 16.30.
Museum is devoted to famous Turkish singer and
• Bodrum Amphitheatre, ☎ +90 252 316 8061. composer Zeki Müren. It’s been established in Bo-
Tu-Su 8.30 - 16.30. Is another ancient structure ac- drum as Müren used to live here. 3 TL.
credited to the reign of King Mausolus, although it
wasn’t completed until the Roman era. The theatre
is another witness to the great past of Bodrum, and 59.5 Do
it is one of the best preserved structures of ancient
Halikarnassus. You can find this site on the road to
During the peak season, the beach that stretches between
Gumbet 8 TL.
the castle and Halikarnas is very good for swimming; The
water is roped off to prevent boats coming in, and the
• Windmills in Bodrum. One of the many sights beach and water is cleaned daily by the restaurants and
in the Bodrum peninsula are the white windmills, by the city authorities. Sunbeds and beanbags on the
which were made of stone and lined with wooden beach are free of charge, although the restaurants that
planks. These windmills were used from the mid own them will bring you menus or offer you drinks every
18th century until the 70s as a means to grind flour. half hour. Another option is to go to the nearby beaches
Seven windmills can be found on a hill between Bo- of Gumbet or Bitez: Grab a Taxi (15/25 Lira) or go to
drum and Gumbet, at the road to Turgutreis and a lot the bus station and hop on a Dolmus (2/3 Lira). These
of windmills can be found around the former fishing beaches are much more suited for sunbathing and have
port Yalikavak. These historical mills on the Bo- actual sand (Bodrum’s beach is mostly pebbles, whereas
drum Peninsula are currently being restored to at- the water at Gumbet & Bitez is very shallow), sunbeds are
tract local and foreign tourists. (12/2008) free ad- free of charge and loud music is also there to entertain
mission. you. There are several pools with bars that do not charge
an entrance fee even if you are not ordering anything. A
• Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, ☎ +90 252 316 12 variety of water sports is offered.
19. Tu-Su 8.30 - 16.30. Just a short walk uphill
You can also hire a private boat for your own trip around
from the marina, the foundations of the Mausoleum
the bay. Make sure all passengers have and wear lifejack-
(see above) can be seen. 8 TL.
ets and that there is an emergency oar and kit on board.
Taking a mobile phone in a plastic bag is advisable. Try
• Myndos Gate. The Myndos Gate is the only sur- snorkeling (go for good quality glass based goggles and
viving monumental gate of the 7km long ancient city kit available in most shops at around 20 Lira).
wall of Halikarnassos. The city walls are the most
important remains of the city of Halicarnassus. The • Aquatica - If you are looking for crazy Day Par-
gate can clearly be seen with its two towers. The ties and a unique summer experience then try out
entrance is free of charge. this Floating Beach Club. It is located on the sea,
in an untouched secluded bay, between Bodrum
• Ottoman Shipyard & Tower. History of the ship- and Gumbet (access by shuttle boats). This con-
yard dates back to 1775. Here the entire Ottoman cept offers day parties with international djs, food,
fleet was destroyed by the Russian fleet during the drinks, various watersports, and much more. It is
Cesme naval battle in 1770. After the battle, the open everyday (11AM-8PM) from mid June to mid
shipyard was established to rebuilt the Ottoman fleet September.
• Hamam — Bodrum has a fine hamam, also known 30min. from the bus station to the Camel Beach.
as a Turkish Bath, located a few blocks inland from You can ride a camel at the camel beach for 10 TL.
the harbour. Facilities are separated by gender with The sea and the beach is one of the greatest in the
both sexes enjoying the same hours of operation. It Bodrum Peninsula.
is situated right across the bus terminal.
• Tour in the marina and Bodrum Castle, photos with
• Further afield there are the mud baths to visit. You maps .
go down the river on a rickety of chug-chug jump
in bit baths of mud and roll around (The fun bit) • Flaka Cruising, Bodrum. Bodrum is known for its
and then clean off and go home. It’s also easy to go old traditional wooden sailing boats, so called gulets.
across to Kos or Rhodes for a day or two. When ar- Mainly, there is sailed in the gulf of Gokova and
riving there get a scooter (very dangerous but the Hirasonu, the Blue Cruise or Blue Voyage as the trip
best and easiest way to get around). There is of is referd to, is done by motor/engine however there
course loads of old architecture to visit around if you are a few charter companies who sail by windpower,
like that kind of thing. one of them is Flaka Cruising and does offer this
service by sailing by wind. Gulets can be chartered
• Windsurfing — There are some good possibilities for your family gathering or by cabin. In the last case
for windsurfing at nearby Vass. It has a bit of a hippy you share the gulet with other guests form around the
air to it with lots of hire stands for boards and sails. world.
Some may find there are just tooooo many people
around in high season for it to be much fun, espe- • Aquapark Dedeman Bodrum, ☎ +90 252
cially when there are competitions running. 3586161. daily 10.30 - 17.00 (from May 22 th to
October 05th). It is the park with 23 waterslides, a
Pure Windsurfing Centre is another option in 350 metre wave river, a wave pool, a range of other
the peninsula. There is a great range of wind- pools, a great selection of restaurants and a disco.
surfing boards and sails for rent. The bay is Adult - 21 Euro; Child (7-12 Yaş) - 11 Euro; 0-6
nice, quite and safe, so you don't need to worry and 60+ are free of charge.
about an overcrowded location. The bay has • Bodrum Golf & Tennis Club, Ortakent, Bodrum,
cross shore conditions and you can be planning ☎ +90 252 358 7280. 30min lesson - 60 TL.
straight from the beach. Perfect for beginners
in the mornings and in the afternoons for the • Dolphin Park Bodrum, Guvercinlik, Bodrum,
more experienced windsurfer. Muğla (20km off Bodrum by the road to Mugla), ☎
Guvercinlik, Bodrum, Muğla. Dolphin show: W
• Diving - There are many diving clubs doing daily F Sa 16-00. They offer dolphins & sea animals
scuba diving tours all around the region, fees usually show. It’s also possible to arrange swimming with
include lunch and snacks prepared on boat. dolphins.
• Uyku Vadisi (Sleeping Valley) Hike (30 km of Bo-
• Boat Tours - Public boat tours are arranged from drum in the direction towards Milas there is a village
almost all the beaches. Alternatively, you can make Gokceler, Uyku Vadisi is 1 km further). Start at the
early reservation with the tour operator of your Old Mill Restaurant. On the way through the Uyku
choice, many tour operators are located in the Bo- Vadisi you'll get a chance to see Gokceler Cave and
drum Marina. Boat tours are a good way to ex- also cross a few creeks. Overall it’s relatively easy
plore various beaches surrounding Bodrum, as well hike which takes about 1.5 hrs both ways.
as some must see island strands you can't reach by
road.
• Yacht charter in the Aegean Sea. Windward Islands

59.6 Buy
, one of the worlds largest yacht charter companies,
can take care of all charter requirements, from bare- Always haggle for a better (if not half price) deal and go
boat to luxury yacht in the Aegean Sea. Operat- for clothing. Some great quality designer labeled outfits,
ing from different offices worldwide (USA, Spain, shoes and trousers (fake or not) are definitely worth the
UK, Germany, Italy, France, Spain, Switzerland, lira being asked.
Caribbean, Hong Kong and Dubai).
• Rent a car and explore the beauty of Bodrum 59.7 Eat

• Take a dolmus from the central bus station(otogar) • Backpacker Bar & Grill, Ataturk Cad. 37A.
to the Tropical Camel Beach. It takes approx. 10AM-midnight. This is the only foreign-owned bar
59.9. SLEEP 167
in town and serves traditional British food as well as sic is excellent mix of R&B, Dance, Funk and Turk-
Turkish favorites. It is located one street back from ish Pop.
the main tourist strip and so has more of a relaxed
feel. midrange. • Halikarnas. Is the name of the huge, outdoor night
club (the largest in the world, they say). It is for
• Berk Balik, Cumhuriyet Cad. 167 (directly at the the trendy, young euro crowd and is especially busy
beach promenade near Club Halikarnas), ☎ +90 in the peak season. However, the entry price is ex-
(252) 313 68 78. Restaurant specialized in fresh tremely expensive, and your stay at the club will gen-
fish. The owner and the staff are very friendly and erally be shortened by the ridiculous drink prices and
helpful if you are not familiar with the broad variety the lack of places to sit down.
of fish that is offered. Food is excellent and prices
are moderate. • Kuba is a resto-lounge restaurant with an upscale
• Kocadon, Saray Sokak 1 (near to Bodrum Marina), menu.
☎ 0252 316 37 05. Bodrum’s most elegant restau-
rant.Situated in an authentic courtyard surrounded • Fink is an open air club, with high prices. Societic
by palm trees and banana plants, this 19th cen-
tury stone house restaurant offers Turkish and in- • Körfez Bar and Adamik are the oldest and most
ternational cuisine, seafood and open buffet Turk- crowded Rock Bars in town. Great playlist, great
ish mezes.Perfect place for a romantic dinner with drink prices.
classical jazz music and soft candle light.
• Kule Rock City is a new and another Rock Bar in
• Marina Koftecisi. Bodrum’s best kofte(meatball) Bodrum. Beer is €5. Cocktails €10. Smoking is
and meat restaurant. Delicous food,cheap. free in some areas. Very crowded. Cannot be en-
tered without a lady partner.
• Sunger Pizza (on the main street Neyzen Tevfik(No:
241) in front of Bodrum Marina). Bodrum’s famous
• Bodrum Marine Club is a club built into a large
restaurant specialized in pizza. You can eat delicious
boat. The boat is a catamaran style, with a glass
pizza with a reasonable price. Main courses are also
deck for the dance floor. At night the boat sets out
great. Very crowded ! Don't forget to register your
to a point in the harbour where lights have been
name in waiting list.
set into the ocean floor, pointing up. The local fish
• Terzi Mustafa. Bodrum’s best fish restaurant, a bit have learned that this is a good spot to hang out and
expensive if Rakı is taken as drink. get scraps thrown overboard, and you can see them
swimming along under the dance floor. Watch out
• Urfa Diyarı, Barlar Sokagi (directly at the beach for the ticket hawkers set up on the streets in town
promenade more to the east end), ☎ 0252 313 32 though, if you arrive before the peak season hits they
45. Offers freshly baked lahmacun and pide at very will go to great lengths to sell you a ticket. Claims of
good prices (lahmacun is just 4 Lira, Pide around 7 a “special party” that night will be made, often men-
Lira). The staff is a bit slow and sometimes unhandy tioning a big name European DJ like Tiesto. When
but always friendly and very hospitable. The lahma- you get on the boat you'll find it’s just an ordinary
cun and pide, however, is always delicious and well night, no special party, and especially no Tiesto. If
worth the money. you go back to the ticket stand the next day to con-
front the person who made the false claims, they'll
• Vira’s Restaurant, ☎ 0252 348 39 92. Situated on suddenly forget how to speak English. Continuing to
Yahsi seafront, very good restaurant with traditional harass them will result in a grudging admission that
Turkish cuisine, steaks and grills, seafood dishes and there was a “schedule change”. I don't doubt that this
pasta/pizza. Try Cokertme Kebabi(Local dish pre- club fills up and has great parties when there are lots
pared with grilled fillet steak on fried potatoes with of people in town, but if you're there in late March
a special yogourt and tomato sauce.) - early June, don't bother.
The home of the doner kebap offers more tasty treats, try
local delicatessens for flavoursome vegetable, pulses and 59.9 Sleep
meat dishes.
• Atami Hotel, Cennet Koyu n:48, Gölköy,
48400 Bodrum, ☎ +90 252 357 74 21, e-mail:
59.8 Drink info@atamihotel.com. 23km from Bodrum, Atami
Hotel is a boutique hotel located in Paradise Bay.
• Try Club X on corner of bar street (bouncers at Very strict rules (No children, no pets) make for a
door) which have more sophisticated clients and mu- quiet environment. €100-365.
• Bodrum Backpackers, Ataturk Cad. 31/B, • Pure hotel, Avta Tatilkoyu, Kadikalesi Mevkii,
Bodrum (5 minute walk from main bus Turgutreis, Bodrum (Between Turgutreis and Gu-
station), ☎ +90 (0)252 313 2762, e-mail: musluk). Check-in: n/a, check-out: n/a. The hotel
info@bodrumbackpackers.net. Check-in: 12PM, is very modern with fantastic facilities including flat
check-out: 10AM. The only dorm-style accom- screen TV’s, air con, balcony and en suite facilities.
modation in Bodrum, located close to the city The holiday village has windsurfing and sailing as
center and 100 meters to the beach. As well as well as free dance classes and tennis courts. When
shared and private dorms, this hostel also allows booked through Puretourism the hotel price includes
shoestring-budget travelers to sleep in their roof-top windsurfing and sailing for free. from £40.
common area. 20-30 TL.
• Ada Hotel, Bağ arası Mah. Tepecik Caddesi 124/1
Göl-Türkbükü, ☎ +90 252 3775915. Check-in:
• Honeymoon Hotel Bodrum. 200 metres to the 14:00, check-out: 13:00. Unique architecture and
only beach in Bodrum centre, and they have also a decoration: built out of carved stones to try to main-
market which open 24 hours. tain a dying tradition. Also claims to provide good
service.
• Su Hotel. Close to the harbour in the quieter West-
• Kaya Pansiyon, çarşı m. Hükümet str. No 10
ern Bay, close enough to walk easily to the city cen-
(3 minutes from bus station), ☎ +902523165745, e-
ter. The hotel is decorated with local crafts, art and
mail: info@kayapansiyon.com.tr. Check-in: 14:00,
antiques and the courtyard hosts a fine collection of
check-out: 12:00. In the heart of Bodrum, but in a
Mediterranean plants and flowers including fig trees,
peaceful location. Rooms with balcony, TV, air con-
oranges, cacti, pomegranates, to name but a few.
ditioner and bathroom. Venere top clean 2013 and
Tripadvisor certificate of excellence 2013 awards.
• Sina Otel, Atatürk cad. No:131 Torba, ☎ +90 252 €double room €50.
367 16 23. A/C suites equipped with satellite/cable
television, Internet access, shower with bathtub,
IDD telephones and refrigerators with minibar.
Some of its facilities and services are a swimming
59.10 Stay safe
pool, Wi-Fi access, spa and massage service. From
€59. Bodrum has a large stray dog population and large dogs
can often be seen roaming around the streets or lying
alongside a busy sidewalk. For the most part they are
• Atrium Hotel (Very close to the city center). Almost
harmless. However, on occasion they do harass innocent
clean. €100/room with halfboard meals included.
bystanders so it is advised to use caution when approach-
ing them and instruct children to keep their distance.
• Kavala Studios. Not very clean but very cheap and
easy access to the city center. The rooms are deco-
rated as studio apartments.
59.11 Connect
• Casa Dell'Arte Luxury Boutique Hotel Bodrum,
Telephone code of Bodrum is (+90) 252.
Kilise Mevkii Mutlu Sok Torba-Bodrum, ☎ +90 252
367-18-48. Hotel with a private beach and outdoors
jacuzzi. Contemporarily decorated rooms with a
TV, wireless internet access. They also have yoga 59.12 Go next
classes.
In the high season, there is direct boat service to:
• Cor1007. Rooms with air-con, satellite TV, en-
suite bathrooms, and balcony (some with a seaview, • Kalymnos, Greece
others overlooking the garden). • Kos, Greece
• Simi, Greece
• Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay, Gerenkuyu
Mevkii, Kızılağaç Köyü, Yalıçiftlik (14 km southeast • Rhodes, Greece
of downtown Bodrum on the Barbaros Bay cliff), ☎
+90 252 311-03-03. Around the Bodrum Peninsula there are many small
towns and villages to visit along the coast:
• Sedative Bodrum Boutique Hotel & Spa, Emin
Anter Bulvarı, Zeytinli Kahve Mevkii No:1, Torba, • Gumusluk
☎ +90 252 337-11-21. Check-in: 2PM, check-out:
• Yalikavak
noon. €170.
Chapter 60
Datca
Datça is a town in Aegean Turkey, located on a long tion of seeing it. There are two amphitheatres in
and narrow peninsula, which forms the boundary between Knidos, one of the facing Aegean Sea, while other
Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. has a view of Mediterranean proper.
• Palamutbuku. about 20 km west of Datça. The

best beach of peninsula. Also there are a lot of cheap
60.1 Get in hotels, pensions and restaurants. It’s easy to arrive
here by using buses which departs from town center.
60.1.1 By car
Datça is located 70-80 km west of Marmaris. The road 60.4 Do
from Marmaris (road number: D400) is the only way to
arrive overland.
Datca Yacht Club
60.1.2 By bus
60.5 Buy
Although it’s possible to find direct bus services from
main centres of the country, such as Istanbul during sum- The town (and the peninsula) is famous for its almond
mer months; in the rest of the year your best bet is to ar- trees, and a local dessert made of almond and dried figs
rive at Marmaris first, then transfer to another bus bound is remarkably tasty, so you may consider buying a few
for Datça there. packages.
60.1.3 By boat
60.6 Eat
There are ferries from Bodrum, arriving at the port on
the northern coast of the peninsula. From there, Datça - • Cafe Inn, Atatürk Cad. 51, ☎ +90 252 712-94-
which is on the southern coast of the peninsula- is a 10-15 08. A small cafe with limited but great food op-
minutes drive away. tions. Beer, wine and limited cocktails such as G&T
are available. Outdoor sitting with a superb view of
Datca bay. Casual, easy going place with friendly
60.2 Get around owner working on the premise.
60.3 See 60.7 Drink

• Ancient city of Knidos is located on the tip of the
peninsula (about 30 km west of Datça, near the vil- 60.8 Sleep
lage of Yazıköy). Although not impressive as it
used to be at ancient times, this city had the fa- • Iskandil Apart Hotel, Palamutbükü, Datça, ☎
mous naked Aphrodite, chipped by Praksiteles of +90-505-822-14-35. A small family-run hotel
Athens. Long missing (only its pedestal is still on close to the beach and the town centre. All air-
the site), this statue once generated one of the earli- conditioned guest rooms include self-catering kitch-
est forms of tourism: People from all over Mediter- enette, satellite TV, balcony, private bathroom, and
ranean world flocked to Knidos with the only inten- free Wi-Fi. €60.
169
170 CHAPTER 60. DATCA
60.9 Connect
Telephone code of the town is (+90) 252.
60.10 Go next
Chapter 61
Denizli
try to use the well-known companies. Usually they have

bigger signs in the otogar (main coach stations). Also, al-
ways check your departure time and gate as well as the
destination. The agent most probably will not know any
word in English so you may need to use body language
instead.
The local company, Pamukkale Turism offers the best
options with buses to many cities leaving once or even
twice an hour.
Many of the bus companies (such as Pamukkale, Kamil
Koç, and Metro) offer a free service shuttle from the bus
station into the city which is a nice option if you want to
avoid a taxi ride. Tell the driver where you would like to
Welcome to Denizli go and make sure they realize you're not a local, and they
will help you get on the right shuttle and help you get off
Denizli is the commercial and transportation hub of in- at the right stop.
land region of southeastern Aegean Turkey. It is nestled You can take a dolmuş (minibus) from Denizli to
against the hillside at the southern side of the plains of Pamukkale. They run approximately twice an hour.
Büyük Menderes River. It’s a busy place partly because
When traveling in the city of Denizli it’s important to be
of nearby Pamukkale and its travertine pools but mainly
aware that there are two bus stations. The old, original bus
because it’s the main commercial hub for the agricultural
station in the heart of the city is currently being remod-
produce coming from the region. It’s also the place where
eled. This area is called “eski garaj.” Dolmuş buses pick
you probably need to go if you're in need of cash.
up and drop off from a strip of sidewalk along the main
Don't let its looks deceive you when you arrive at the road there. If you are staying in downtown Denizli this
otogar once you proceed beyond the main thoroug- is a good place to pick up a dolmuş going to Pamukkale.
fare and its dreary concrete façades which are repeated The main bus station right now (where intercity buslines
throughout the city, you find there’s a lively market and like Pamukkale, Kamil Koç, and Metro operate) is on the
all sorts of eateries. Since tourists don't really come here, edge of town in an old shopping mall. To get to this bus
you probably won't be harassed. station you should ask for the “otogar.”
61.1 Get in
61.1.1 By bus
61.1.2 By train
There are busses here (directly or indirectly) to and from
Nevsehir (for Goreme), Istanbul, Fethiye, and Selçuk (for
Ephesus). In addition to these well travelled towns, the Currently there are trains only from İzmir to the city.
extensive, reliable, and almost always on time Turkish The daily Istanbul service (Pamukkale Express) was sus-
bus system links Denizli with almost any major city in pended in 2008 due to track renovations, and it is not
the country. The most notable ones are Adana, İzmir, certain when/if it will restart service. Check with Turk-
Istanbul, Diyarbakır, Ankara and so on. As in the rest of ish State Railways’ (TCDD) website for most up-to-date
the country, when you consider buying a ticket, always information on this.
171
172 CHAPTER 61. DENIZLI
61.1.3 By air
The closest airport is Denizli - Çardak Airport (IATA:

DNZ). The national carrier Turkish Airlines now pro-
vides three daily flights from Istanbul Atatürk Airport.
The times are very early morning, morning, and evening.
Çardak Airport is about one hour outside the actual city
of Denizli. There are taxis available at the airport, but
a better option is taking the havaş. The havaş is a bus
that goes only between the airport and the city for ev-
ery flight. It currently costs 15 TL. If you are going to
Pamukkale, the havaş can take you from the airport to a
dolmuş (minibus) that goes to Pamukkale.
İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport is another alternative to
the area. Denizli is about 260 km from the airport, a drive
The ubiquitous Atatürk
of about 4 hours (4 1/2 to 5 hours by bus) or 6–7 hours
by train.
street from “Babadağlılar İşhanı" where you can shop for
Turkish towels and other linens.
61.2 Get around There is also a very important historical site in
Pamukkale—the ancient site of Hierapolis. In that his-
torical site, you can find a well preserved ancient theater
and necropolis. The Hierapolis Museum and historic site
are well worth seeing. A bit closer by are the ruins of
what once was Laodicea. The main part of the ancient
town is somewhat better preserved than that of Hierapo-
lis. On the other hand; the theatre at Hierapolis is in much
better shape than that of Laodicaea. Since it’s along the
dolmuş route between Denizli and Pamukkale, you can
ask the driver to let you out at the turn-off and pick up
a later dolmuş to carry you on to your destination. The
driver will stop and let you off on the side of the high-
way. You should see a large brown sign pointing out the
direction of Laodicea. You will need to walk up this road
about 15 minutes to reach the site. Pamukkale University
Walking is always an option
and the city of Denizli have been doing extensive excava-
tions in the last year and have developed the site nicely.
Denizli is not a very big city. You won't need to use the There is a small cafe and gift shop as well as restrooms.
transportation system very often. Minibuses and buses Even if you don't have time to walk around the entire site,
provide service. There is neither metro nor trams run- you should walk down the main road, called Syria Street,
ning. Just rely on your foot as the center of the city is so and go up to the temple. The temple has a glass floor
small. If you want to go to the outskirts of the city you so you can look down into the basement and see offer-
can take buses. Every bus has a sign on it stating where ings that were uncovered there during excavations. The
it goes and terminates. You can try to ask the driver as temple also offers a great view of the surrounding area,
well. including Pamukkale in the distance.
61.3 See 61.4 Do

Because it is not a very popular tourist destination, Deni-
zli does not have tons of stuff to offer. However, there 61.5 Buy
are very beautiful parks in the city. The ones that are
worth a look—also for some fresh air—are İncilipınar Denizli is well known for its textile in Turkey. It may
Parkı and Çamlık. There is one very famous museum offer you a wide-variety of textile products. Also, one can
which was the house used by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk— find some hand-made clothes and so on. The biggest place
the founder of the Turkish Republic—when he visited for buying traditional handmade clothes is “Babadağlılar
Denizli. This museum is conveniently located across the İşhanı" located in the heart of the city. Moreover, huge
61.9. GO NEXT 173
shopping malls such as “Teraspark” and “Forum Çamlık”

are good options for world-wide-known stores.
61.6 Eat
You can find some local tastes in Denizli to eat. The very
first one that is worth a mention of these is Denizli Kebabı.
Fairly good Denizli kebabi can be had at Enver Kebabçı
and Kebabci Halil both of which are located at Bayra-
myeri district. This local type of kebab is also known as
Tandır in some other regions of Turkey. Denizli Kebabı
is best eaten around noon.
Also, another option would be Kaşarlı Alabalık—a kind
of meal made from fish covered with some grated cheese
in a very special oven.
You should also try the toasts of the buffet “Karadam”
which is located in the city centre "Çınar”. The Dörtlü is
also something that you should not miss.
There is a local company called “Hacı Şerif” that sells
all kinds of sweets from Turkish Delight (lokum) to hard
candies and chocolates. They have a large shop in down-
town Denizli (Çinar) and smaller shops throughout the
rest of the city. They are a family business, started in
1938, and well known locally. Besides their Turkish De-
light, you should try their Dondurmalı İrmik Helvası . Ir-
mik helvası is a dessert made with semolina and pine nuts.
Hacı Şerif places a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a small
cup and packs warm irmik helvası in around it. The re-
sulting dessert is a delicious mixture of warm and cold.
61.7 Drink
61.8 Sleep
While there are places to stay in the city centre, the ho-
tels in nearby Pamukkale and especially Karahayıt (fur-
ther north from Pamukkale) offers some better places to
stay at affordable prices.
• Napa Hotel, Saraylar Mh., Cumhuriyet Cd No:10,

☎ (0258) 242 0428. Quite OK hotel near the bus
station. Buffet breakfast included in price. 100-
120TL.
61.9 Go next
• Visiting Pamukkale is possibly why you are in Deni-
zli in the first place.
• Nearby Aphrodisias is one of the best preserved Ro-
man cities in Turkey, and without the usual crowds
of better known sites such as Ephesus.
Chapter 62
Gumusluk
Gümüşlük is a small seaside village in the Southern "Rabbit Island" (Turkish: Tavşan Adası), situated in the
Aegean region of Turkey. middle of the bay and accessible by a partially sunken
causeway, offers a magnificent panorama.
62.1 Understand
62.5 Do
Gümüş translates “silver” in Turkish, hence Gümüşlük
being “the place of silver”. Thanks to strictly enforced
building prohibitions, the seafront has kept its original
62.6 Buy
and photogenic fishing village charm.
• Wednesday Farmers Market (By the Village
Lying on the western tip of Bodrum Peninsula, Gümüşlük
Mosque and Post Office).
is renowned for the beauty of its sunsets over the horizon
in Aegean Sea. • Kikkula - Mostly Paper, Atatürk Caddesi 74, ☎
+90 532 604 43 94, e-mail: info@kikkula.com.
This shop sells a collection of objects d'art, home
62.2 Get in decor and accent pieces for the home - all made out
of papier mache.
Gümüşlük lies about 20-25 minutes from Bodrum, and
you can take a minibus (dolmuş) for 3 TL.
Gümüşlük is also connected on the dolmus route to both
62.7 Eat
Turgutreis and Yalikavak. The bus to Turgutreis runs
very frequently. • Soğan Sarmısak, Karakaya Mah. Kumsal Plajı 12,
☎ +90 252 394-30-87. Delicious home made food.
62.3 Get around

62.8 Drink
The main hub of tourist activity is centered around the
Harbour and Beach area, but it’s only a 2km walk to the • Limon Cafe, Yalı Mevkii no: 1, ☎ +90 252 394-40-
heart of the village. It’s an easy stroll through to the vil- 44, e-mail: info@limongumusluk.com. An open-air
lage, and provides you a different perspective of Gumus- cafe offering some snacks in addition to hot, soft,
luk. and alcoholic drinks, situated on the side of the hill
above the village, overlooking the sea in a distance,
combination of which means stunning views of sun-
set! Tastefully decorated with wooden chairs, which
62.4 See gives the place somewhat a rustic atmosphere. You
can reach here by walking along the back lanes from
Gümüşlük stands on the site of the ancient Carian city Gumusluk Harbour.
of Myndus whose seafront sections slid into the sea in
some long-forgotten earthquake. Today these barely sub- • Limon Lokanta, Gumusluk Village (Near the
merged remains are a magnet for snorkellers and under- Karakaya Mosque). The sister restaurant to the
water photographers. The land site is yet to be fully ex- Limon Cafe. This Lokanta has a cheaper and more
cavated, but traces of antiquity can be spotted in empty simple menu, and is located in the heart of the vil-
fields, sounding an evocative echo of a distant age. lage.
174
62.11. GO NEXT 175
62.9 Sleep
There are no high rise hotels or resorts in Gumusluk. Be-
sides a couple of small hotels, the rest of the accommo-
dation is in local pansiyons located by the harbour, beach
or in the village.
62.10 Connect
The telephone code of the village is (+90) 252, which it
shares with the surrounding cities and towns.
62.11 Go next
Chapter 63
Muğla
Muğla (pronounced moo-lah) is an inland city in 63.4 See

Southern Aegean, Turkey.
• Old town (Saburhane), (east of city centre). White-
washed half-timbered houses line narrow cobbled
63.1 Understand alleys in this pleasant quarter.
Muğla is a pleasant city on the side of a mountain, with

a population of 61,000. Despite having the charm of 63.5 Do
a typical inland Aegean town, and being fairly close to
(and, indeed the administrative centre of) the resort towns
popular with international travellers (Bodrum, Marmaris, 63.6 Buy
Fethiye to name a few), travellers often overlook Muğla.
Muğla lies on an elevation of 670 metres, and as such its 63.7 Eat
significantly cooler climate is a welcome retreat from hot
and sticky conditions of the coast.
63.8 Drink
63.2 Get in 63.9 Sleep

63.2.1 By air 63.10 Connect
Nearest airports are in Bodrum to west, and Dalaman
to south, both of which are around an hour away from Telephone code of Muğla is (+90) 252.
Muğla. Both welcomes domestic as well as international
flights, especially from Europe.
63.11 Go next
63.2.2 By car Many famous resort towns of Turkish coast (Southern
Aegean/Western Mediterranean) are within a radius of
• From Izmir, take the motorway south to Aydın, then 100 km from Muğla:
hit D550 there.
• From Bodrum, take D330 east to Milas, and • Bodrum — partying capital of Turkey, which also
Yatağan, and then take southwards D550. feautures a well-preserved citadel
• From Marmaris, take D400 north to • Akyaka — village with beautiful traditional archi-
Akyaka/Gökova, and then hit D550. tecture just south of Muğla, on the coast
• From Denizli, take D330 westwards. • Marmaris — daily yacht trips along a mountainous
coastline
• Dalyan — rock-cut ancient tombs, boat trips

63.3 Get around through marshlands, and a sandy beach where
Mediterranean turtles lay their eggs
176
63.11. GO NEXT 177
• Fethiye — a gulf backed by mountains dotted by Ly-

cian ruins; postcard beauty of Blue Lagoon is also
nearby
Chapter 64
Pamukkale
rience slightly uncomfortable. Climbing up the cascades

barefoot, with cold water running downstream will be a
tough task
64.2 Get in
The nearest major city is Denizli, where you will likely

arrive first before getting to Pamukkale.
64.2.1 By plane
• Closest airport is Denizli - Cardak Airport is 65 km

or 1 hour away and there are flights twice daily to
Istanbul.
• Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport is another alterna-

The travertine hot springs. tive to the area. Pamukkale is 252 km from the air-
port, a drive of about 4 hours (4-1/2 to 5 hours by
Pamukkale is in inland southeastern Aegean Turkey. bus)or 6-7 hours by train. (Check TCDD for train
schedule.)
64.1 Understand 64.2.2 By train

Pamukkale, which has been used as a spa since the sec- The nearest train station is in Denizli, which currently
ond century BC, literally means “cotton castle” in Turk- has services from Izmir only. The Istanbul service (Pa-
ish. mukkale Express) was suspended in 2008, presumably be-
The travertine features have their origins in the shifting cause of track renovations, and it is not certain when/if
of a fault in the valley of the Menderes river (between the services will re-start.
here and Denizli). As the fault shifted, very hot springs
with a very high mineral content (notably chalk) arose at
this location. Apart from the slightly radioactive miner- 64.2.3 By bus
als, the calcium and hydrogen carbonate react to create
calcium carbonate (also known as travertine) and lime- Bus to Pamukkale/Denizli can be found from almost all
stone. This is what gives Pamukkale its whiteness and the cities of Turkey. Bus services include water, hot
created the pools. drinks and a snack. There are virtually no bus compa-
It can get quite hot in summer, a hat and especially sun- nies that take you directly to Pamukkale despite what the
glasses will certainly be very helpful against the sun and ticket sellers tell you. The bus will drop you in Denizli and
the reflecting sun rays from the chalky cascades. On the then you have to get on the free minibus to Pamukkale
other hand, the cold winter climate could make the expe- (about 20 km away).
178
64.4. SEE 179
64.2.4 By dolmuş winters when the water flowing down the chalky cascades
will be freezing cold.
From Denizli bus station, take a dolmuş, a type of cheap At the top of the travertines lies the ancient Roman city
communal taxi that usually seats about 10 (but it’s pos- of Hierapolis. The ruins of the city sprawl over a large
sible they'll squeeze in more), from nearby Denizli. Fre- area, but sites are well-marked and there are trails that
quent mini-buses serve the village of Pamukkale in a 20 can be easily followed. The 12,000-seat amphitheater is
minute ride. It cost 3 YTL per trip.It is also possible to in excellent condition and is a highlight, as are the town
make rezervation the bus ticket from Pamukkale Village. gates and main road. In addition, the town is home to the
And the bus company can arrange shuttle bus to bus sta- Martyrium of St. Phillip, a pilgrimage site that is suppos-
tion if there is enough number of people. edly the site where the apostle Philip was martyred and
buried. The church at the site is in ruins, but its founda-
tions reveal an unusual octagonal plan.
64.3 Get around For an additional fee of 32 TL you can soak in the antique
pool, a hot spring pool that still has sections of the orig-
Even when you're way on the edge of the village, you can inal marble columns in it. Additionally, the museum is
reach everything (i.e. the village center and the travertine housed in the former Roman baths and can be visited for
pools) on foot in about ten to fifteen minutes. an additiona 5 TL (opening hours 8am-5pm, Tu-Su). It
contains three rooms housing some of the artifacts found
during excavations of Hierapolis, including sarcophagi.
64.4 See
64.4.2 Other sights
64.4.1 Travertines and Hierapolis
Other than the travertines and Roman city of Hierapolis,
places worth a look around Pamukkale are:
• Laodikya (6 km from Pamukkale on the Denizli

road. Take the bus towards Denizli. Tell the driver
you want to go to Laodikiya, he will drop you off on
the side of the road next to the sign. From there, turn
right following the sign and walk for about 15 min-
utes and you'll get to the site.). Another lesser known
site, but one that holds a considerable significance
Biblically is Laodikya. It’s mentioned in the Bible
as one of the 7 Churches of the Revelations and even
though it hasn't been reconstructed as much as the
more famous sites like Ephesus, is a great place to
experience the Roman history without the crowds.
A peaceful way to spend a day looking at ruins but
also the beautiful scenery there as well. 10 TL.
Roman theater
• Colossae. Ancient ruins 7kms from Pamukkale. It
There are three entry gates, one at the bottom of the used to be an ancient city of Phrygia. It has never
travertines and two at the top. A shuttle will take you been excavated.
between gates for 2 TL. Entry to Hierapolis and the
travertines is a single ticket that costs 25 TL (July 2014). • Karahayit (5 minutes from Pamukkale by local bus.
Entrance is from 08:00 - 21:00 daily. Once you get to the last bus stop head to the north-
The travertine terraces above Pamukkale and below the ern edge of the town where springs and mud bath
ancient city of Hierapolis are a UNESCO World Heritage located.). The red spring is not even nearly as big
site. This “Cotton Castle” is accessed via a gate near Pa- as the calcium outcrop in Pamukkale, but worth a
mukkale, and the walk up takes about 30 minutes and of- look. You might also want to try their mud baths.
fers numerous opportunities to soak in pools that are gen- The entry to the site is free.
erally no more than a foot deep. Tough pollution control
regulations require removing your shoes in order to walk • Kaklik caves. They are like a small version of Pa-
on them (so bring something to put your shoes in!), so the mukkale, but in a cave, underground and are about
travertines stay white as ever. This job is made tougher in 30 minutes from Pamukkale.
180 CHAPTER 64. PAMUKKALE
64.5 Do serving food, not only Turkish but also international

(Korean, Japanese...) in traditional but trendy sur-
• You can walk down barefooted in the waterfalls roundings. Located in the centre of town, close to
from the village. The place is crowded when the all the major hotels.
tour-buses arrive. No shoes are allowed on the
• Lamuko’s Lokanta, Main Street Pamukkale, ☎
travertines. If you don't want to walk back to top,
0090 542 390 8175. Japanese and Korean food in
you can use the buses dropping off people back
the centre of Pamukkale, next to Pamukkale Bus
to top, which depart from near lower end of the
Company office. Delicious!
travertines. You should wear swimming suit. A lot
of people bath in the baths here. • Kale Hotel, Atatürk Cad. 16 (on the main street
in the centre of town), ☎ +90 258 272-26-07. This
• Thermal pool in the Hierapolis area also called place has great Chinese, Korean, and Japanese food
“Cleopatra Pool’s”. Swim with Roman ruins in a at an excellent deal. It’s also got Turkish food, but
large natural swimming pool located just past the is a great change if you'd like something other than
topmost travertines. 32 TL. gözleme, pide or kebabs. Entrees are around 10 TL
• Paragliding. Lots of paragliding options. Some are and it has beer and wine.
short another last longer.
• Boat riding (before entrance to travertines there is 64.8 Drink

a nice park with a lake, free entrance). You can try
riding a boat or feeding a ducks there. • Ayran is a salty yogurt drink similar to a salty lassi.
It may be an acquired taste, but should be tried while
in Turkey.
64.6 Buy
• The wines produced in the Pamukkale area are be-
coming quite famous and are winning awards for the
The Pamukkale/Denizli area is famous for its cotton and
quality and standard. Note that Turkish wine may
the homewares. These are becoming sought after world
disappoint.
wide (Arnold Schwartzenegger decked out his house in
curtains and furnishings specially made in Denizli - so • Raki is a traditional Turkish drink, generally served
the story goes!) and the best place to go is the town of with mezes (tapas like appetizers, generally followed
Buldan, about 30 minutes drive from Pamukkale. Many by a fish or meat dish). With an anise-seed flavor, it
of the other souvenirs and traditional Turkish wares that may be an acquired taste. Great with fish or any long
you can find in other parts of Turkey are cheaper around meal as it is meant to open up your appetite.
Denizli/Pamukkale because they are produced there.
• Efes or Tuborg are the go-to beers in all of Turkey,
Safak Halı Pazarı : Atatürk Caddesi No 30 tel:+90 258 and are often the only beers available.
272 2317 You can find locally handmade carpet and
kilim, towel, tablecloths, seramics, onyx, scarfs, many
different kind of souvenirs homewares here it also cheap
price. 64.9 Sleep
There are small family-run pensions at the village south
64.7 Eat of the travertines. Most have swimming-pools filled with
the warm greenish milky water from the travertines. They
also offer very delicious Turkish food.
The best and freshest food is to be found in the small fam-
ily run pensions, but for a great open air restaurant where
• Artemis Yoruk Hotel, Atatürk Cad. 48/A, ☎ +90
you can eat 'borek' the Turkish pancakes and gaze across
258 272-26-74, fax: +90 258 272-26-75, e-mail:
the valley, try Alis on the main highway just before you
info@artemisyorukhotel.com. Hotel just opposite
come into the town.
the bus stop with a pool and a nice garden, and a
rooftop restaurant which serves traditional Turkish
• Mehmets Heaven, on the main street near the food. Rooms with en-suite, TV, and air-con. Own-
Travertines has an excellent view of Pamukkale ers can speak English. € 12/€ 20 single/double
from his porch out back. Great food and well priced. rooms, including breakfast. On their advertise-
Super nice owner as well. ments, dorms are touted as € 9 pp, including break-
fast, but they insist on a price of 25 TL (about € 14)
• Kayas Wine House, Kale Mah. Ataturk Cad. No if you just show up. There are cheaper accommo-
3 (centre), ☎ 0090 258 272 2267. Recently started dations of this type further down the road.
64.10. GO NEXT 181
• Hotel Dört Mevsim (While the Turkish name dört with thermal water from travertines. Rooms with
mevsim translates to “Four Seasons”, the hotel is en-suite, and air-con. Staff can speak English. €
neither affiliated nor has any similarity to the hotel 20/€ 28 single/double rooms, including breakfast.
chain), ☎ +90 258 272-20-09, fax: +90 258 272-26-
32, e-mail: info@hoteldortmevsim.com. Check-
in: 7:30AM-11:30PM, check-out: 11:30AM. Very 64.10 Go next
friendly and welcoming family-run hotel with free
wi-fi, swimming pool, free car park, babysitting
• It is also worth making the effort to get to the re-
service, and air-con. They allow pets at no ex-
mains of the ancient city of Aphrodisias—one of the
tra cost. They also have a campground on their
best preserved Roman sites in southeastern Aegean.
yard. Very delicious dinner is freshly cooked in the
You can rent a van from Denizli to get there. Local
evening for 15 TL pp. from € 18/€ 26 sinlge/double
bus companies will arrange bus tours for 30-40 TL
rooms, € 10 pp dorms, all including breakfast. Visa,
pp (usually a minimum of 4 people is required ).
Euro/Mastercard are accepted.
• Of moderate interest might be visiting Denizli. It’s

• Kale Hotel, Kale Mah. Atatürk Cad. 16 (on
a bit dull but there’s a lively market.
the main street in the centre of town), ☎ +90
258 272-26-07, fax: +90 258 272-26-07, e-mail:
info@otelkale.com. Check-out: 11AM. A family- • From Denizli one can transfer to, among other op-
run guesthouse. Rooms with satellite TV. Roof-top tions, Selçuk & its Roman ruins of Ephesus, or the
terrace, swimming pool, free wi-fi, Ottoman Corner, popular Mediterranean resort city of Antalya. Just
restaurant, day trips and excursions. € 12. shop around at the various travel agencies scattered
throughout Pamukkale to get the best price quotes,
though beware their mark-ups for fees/"taxes” (in
• Koray Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Fevzi Çakmak Cad. 29, particular, Neşe Tours charges high hidden “taxes":
☎ +90 258 272-22-22, fax: +90 258 272-20-95, e.g. 45 TL for a bus to Bergama that was supposed
e-mail: info@otelkoray.com. Friendly and family- to include the 3 TL dolmuş price to Denizli, when in
run, with garden bar and restaurant and a large fact the dolmuş must be paid extra upon arriving in
swimming pool. Rooms with satellite TV. The ho- Denizli, and one could buy the same Bergama bus
tel can organize day tours, express bus tickets, plane ticket for a mere 30 TL at the Denizli bus station
tickets, and offers a transfer service. counter).
• Melrose House Hotel, Vali Vekfi Ertürk Cad. 8,

☎ +90 258 272-22-50, fax: +90 258 272-31-20, e-
mail: sales@melroseresidence.com. A nice family-
run pansiyon at the eastern end of town with nice
rooms, all of which have air-con. The friendly
owners serve cheap but tasty home cooked meals.
There’s a laundry service and a pool filled with
spring water. They also used to allow campers to
put up their tents. ~30€ double rooms, including
breakfast. Credit cards are NOT accepted.
• Öztürk White Hill Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Fevzi Çak-

mak Cad. 31. A small family-owned hostel.
• Sinter Terasse Hause Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Hasan

Tahsin Cad. 22, ☎ +90 531 708 81 16, fax: +90 258
272-22-33, e-mail: sami.kanmaz@hotmail.com. A
comfortable, family run hotel with wireless internet
access and cable TV. Rooms with en-suite, and air-
con. Staff can speak English and German. € 20/€
28 single/double rooms, including breakfast.
• Venüs Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Hasan Tahsin Cad. 16,

☎ +90 258 272-21-52, fax: +90 258 272-29-93,
e-mail: info@venushotel.net. A comfortable hotel
with wireless internet access, a swimming pool filled
Chapter 65
Turgutreis
Turgutreis is in the Southern Aegean region of Turkey.
65.1 Understand
Turgutreis lies on the western tip of the Bodrum Penin-
sula, and is the second largest town of it after Bodrum
itself. The town is named after the favourite son, Turgut
Reis, an Ottoman admiral of the 16th century, better
known in the West as Dragut.
65.2 Get in
65.3 Get around
65.4 See
65.5 Do
65.6 Buy
65.7 Eat
65.8 Drink
65.9 Sleep
65.10 Connect
65.11 Go next
182
Chapter 66
Yalikavak
Yalıkavak is a town in Bodrum Peninsula of southern 66.5 Buy

Aegean Region, Turkey.
Shopping opportunities in Yalikavak can include the
weekly market selling everything from fresh seafood
to clothing and hand made goods with weekly public
66.1 Get in bazaar on every Thursdays.
Some of what are popular to buy while in Yalıkavak
The closest airport to Yalikavak is Bodrum Airport. The include local weavings, kilims, souvenirs, little wind-
easiest way to go to Yalikavak is to take a minibus from mills that are the symbol of Yalikavak, unique carpets of
Bodrum. It costs about 3.50 TL (US$ 2.30) per person Turkey, hand made clothes, jewellery, watches, leather
and available practically 24 hours, except between 5AM and just about anything else that you can think of.
and 7AM.
66.6 Eat
66.2 Get around
Walking through the town centre of Yalikavak you will
find many bars and restaurants, many of which are along-
66.3 See side the beach or harbour.
• Musti’s Steakhouse. A few yards walk (turn left /

• Yalikavak is surrounded by windmills, you will find East) of the marina entrance. It has a good menu of
them just about everywhere. These windmills are steaks, burgers and chicken with a good selection of
from an earlier era. wines and other drinks. Prices work out about the
same as a Turkish restaurant.
• Yalikavak Marina is popular with yachties who
come from all over to experience its superb facili-
ties and one of the places to see in Yalikavak. It is 66.7 Drink
just a short walk from the center of Yalikavak.
66.8 Sleep
66.4 Do 66.9 Connect
There are many small beaches in Yalikavak all of which Telephone code of the town is (+90) 252.
are very clean with warm crystal clear waters. The
beaches are particularly scenic and are also very popu-
lar during the evenings with holiday makers enjoying the
spectacular sunsets beyond the Aegean.
66.10 Go next
Many people come to Yalikavak to sail from Port Bo-
drum the large marina. Many charter companies have
boats based here, including Aura Yachting, giving access
to sailing areas both to the north of the Bodrum peninsula
or to the south.
183
Chapter 67
Black Sea Turkey
67.1 Regions
• Eastern Karadeniz — This region boasts astounding
natural beauty, colorfully dressed Hemşin women,
many Georgian ruins hidden in the mountains,
and perhaps the world’s most spectacularly situated
monastery.
• Central Karadeniz — Central Karadeniz is home to
the Turkish Black Sea coast’s largest city, Samsun,
beautiful riverside Ottoman architecture in Amasya,
and Hittite ruins galore.
• Western Karadeniz — The western third of Turkey’s
Black Sea coast is its most remote and beautiful
Provinces of Turkish Black Sea coast (having been spared the indignities of the coastal
highway), home to the ancient fortified port city of
Sinop, and the beautiful resort town of Amasra.
67.2 Cities
• Amasya — a historic city with riverside Ottoman
mansions and ancient rock-cut tombs watching them
from above
• Amasra — a beautiful seaside resort town with a
nice beach, pleasant vistas, and great fish restaurants
• Giresun — city standing out with its lively nightlife;
trips to a nearby island with lush vegetation can be
arranged from here
• Rize — the heart of Turkey’s tea growing region; not
Turkish Black Sea coast a real tourist attraction, but a good base for exploring
the northeast
• Safranbolu — a town known for its preserved Ot-
Black Sea Turkey (Turkish: Karadeniz Bölgesi) in north- toman old town and streetscape with whitewashed
ern Turkey, is a humid and verdant region renowned for houses. Also a World Heritage site.
its natural beauty thanks to the high precipitation levels
distributed evenly throughout the year. The region is very • Samsun — largest city on the Turkish Black Sea
mountainous and is heavily forested, while the highest coast with big city attractions: such as opera and mu-
parts of the mountains are covered with alpine meadows, seums. Also many sports, including wakeboarding
glacier lakes, and glaciers. in summer.
It occupies much of the country’s northern (Black Sea) • Sinop — an ancient fortified port city jutting out on
coast, while the rest of it is part of Marmara Region. a peninsula into Turkey’s northernmost tip
184
67.8. SEE 185
• Trabzon — the main city of the northeast has a lot to

offer a visitor, and is the place to stay when traveling
to the stunning Sümela Monastery
• Zonguldak — a bleak industrial city surrounded by

coal mines
Sunset over the Bay of Gideros, purportedly the only fjord in

Turkey
67.8 See
67.9 Do
67.10 Eat
67.11 Drink
Altındere Valley, which houses Sümela Monastery (which can be
seen in the centre of the photo, click to enlarge)
67.12 Stay safe
• Ayder — a village up in the lush Kaçkar Moun-
tains/Pontic Alps 67.13 Go next
• Bogazkale — an ancient Hittite city As the Black Sea Region spreads over most of northern
• Sümela — stunning monastery hanging on a cliff in Turkey elongatedly, getting out of region involves heading
the lush Altındere Valley for destinations hugely different in character:
• To west, Marmara Region with some of the coun-

try’s greatest cities, packed full of historical sights.
67.4 Understand
• To south, you have two inland options depending on
where you cross over the coastal mountain range—
67.5 Talk wide open steppes of Central Anatolia or mountain-
ous territory of Eastern Anatolia.
67.6 Get in • To east, Georgia with its as lush topography as Black
Sea Turkey, and its great culinary tradition.
67.7 Get around
The 350 km road from Amasra to Sinop is beautiful and
breathtaking as it winds it’s way along the rugged coast.
If you are depending on public transport, however, it is
likely to take two days. Expect to spend a night in one of
the small towns along the coast, such as Inebolu, as bus
service is town-to-town, and you are likely to arrive at
some town after the last dolmus has left. While the towns
along the way are unspoilt and unpretentious, they are a
bit run down. If you have your own car or motorcycle,
you can do the journey in one day (start early).
Chapter 68
Central Karadeniz
Central Black Sea (Turkish: Orta Karadeniz) is a re- 68.8.1 Itineraries

gion in Black Sea Turkey, including the Amasya, Çorum,
Ordu, Samsun, and Tokat provinces.
68.9 Do
68.1 Regions 68.10 Eat
68.2 Cities 68.11 Drink

• Amasya — inland town on Yeşilırmak River with
whitewashed Ottoman architecture and ancient 68.12 Stay safe
tombs engraved on cliffs overlooking the town
• Bogazkale — town close to Hattuşaş, which was 68.13 Go next

once the capital of Hittite Empire, indigenous peo-
ple of Anatolian highlands
• Çorum — capital of Çorum province. But otherwise

pretty unremarkable provincial city.
• Ordu — coastal city
• Samsun — big city attractions: such as opera and

museums. Also many sports, including wakeboard-
ing in summer.
• Tokat — historical city, having important historical

buildings and monuments
68.4 Understand
68.5 Talk
68.6 Get in
68.7 Get around
68.8 See
186
Chapter 69
Amasya
69.2 Get around

Once you get a bus service or taxi to the town square, ev-
erything is within easy walking distance. If you are going
on day trips to other villages in the region, you can find
small privately-owned buses that come and go if you ask
around.
For car rentals (if you're interested in a day trip to
Hattuşa, the Hittite capital, for example), there is a car
rental/pet store very near the Train Station, and another
near the bridge by Migros.
Amasya and Yeşilırmak River
69.3 See
Amasya is a city in the Central Karadeniz region of
Turkey.
69.1 Get in
69.1.1 By train
• Train station (NW 2km of city center).
Amasya is located on the railway line between Samsun

(3 hrs travel time) and Sivas (5 hrs travel time). Online
timetable is at TCDD Internet page.
Tombs of the Pontic Kings

69.1.2 By bus
The major sights of the city include the whitewashed Ot-
• Bus station, Kirazlıdere Mh. (On the northeastern toman houses lined by the river and the ancient Pontic
edge of a city, 2 km of city center), ☎ +90 358 218 rock tombs engraved on the side of the mountain over-
8812. looking the city.
It has many major lines that come and go from Ankara

69.3.1 Harşena hill
and Istanbul all day long. Most of these lines will offer
you a free service to the town square. There are also a
High above the city on Harşena hill there is a castle. How-
few busses every day going to and from Antalya, Çorum,
ever, this hill has much more to offer. The climb begins
Izmir, Kayseri, Malatya, Tokat and Trabzon.
at the Kızlar Sarayı.
To come and go from Samsun, the nearest city on the
Black Sea coast, there are small Metro minibuses that • Kızlar Sarayı (Palace of the Maidens). The for-
leave several times a day. mer seat of the Pontic kings, it was also used by the
187
188 CHAPTER 69. AMASYA
Traditional riverside houses of Amasya, backed by ancient rock

Darüssifa Hanı
tombs
Sultan Beyazıt Külliyesi
then turn left where it’s marked “Kale”. Taxi shouldn't

cost more than 25 TL roundtrip if you are coming
from the city center.). Harşena hill had been used as
a Castle Hill since 3000 BC. The current castle is,
however, much younger from about 3rd century BC.
In the Persian period the hill was used as a sacred site
that was dedicated to the god of light Ahura Mazda.
However, with the Pontic Kingdom as well as dur-
ing the Hittite period the mountain was again used
in as a fortress hill to protect the city. The badly-
preserved ruins wouldn't worth an arduous climb if
The old town not the view one can enjoy from there. Free en-
trance.
Seljuks but only as an arsenal. Today only ruins of
the walls and two baths remained. 69.3.2 Old town
• Tombs of the Pontic Kings (accessible by a stair- • Büyük-Aga Medrese (at the Kunc Bridge). Lo-
case in the “old” section of town). The rock tombs cated in a working school that was founded in 1488
are from Pontian time (3rd century BC - 40 AD). by the Supreme Eunuch of the Sultan Beyazit II
They make a strong impression being of a height of Hüseyin Aga. These well-restored buildings and
about 12 m. Beware of a very slippery track leading their classrooms can be visited and it’s worth a visit.
there. 5 TL.
• Amasya Kalesi (Citadel) (At the foot of the hill • Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) (near the Hükümet
there is a walk leading from Kizlar Sarayı up to the bridge). The 19th century clock tower.
Citadel, however, it is very steep and requires ideal
shoes. Otherwise, it can be reached by paved uphill • Hatuniye Mahallesi, Hazeranlar Sok. The old
road: following road to Samsun for 1 km first and town of Amasya is located at the foot of the moun-
69.3. SEE 189
tain just on the riverbanks. A variety of picturesque riverside and a very prominent site in town. It con-
houses can be found here. Earlier old town was pro- sists of two successively arranged domes and domi-
tected with defensive walls. nated by two tall differently decorated minarets. To-
day, the complex also houses the city library (for-
• Haranlar Konagi (near the Alçak Bridge). Tu-Su merly a law school) as well as a soup kitchen and a
08:00 - 16:45 (11:45 - 13:15 break). This house was miniature museum of Amasya. If you decide to
built in 1483 and has been restored recently. Now it give up the 3 TL for the miniature museum, make
displays the facilities and items from the 19th cen- sure to stay for a full day-night cycle.
tury and an art gallery. 3 TL.
• Amasya Belediye (Municipal) Museum. Tu -
69.3.3 City center Su 08:00 - 11:45 and 13:15 - 16:45. It’s a typ-
ical museum in Turkey, containing objects from
In the South are parallel to Yeşilırmak river on the water- the province that date from the early Greek period
front Ziya Paşa Bulvarı and a few meters in parallel - the through the end of the Ottoman dynasty. The biggest
shopping street of Mustafa Kemal Paşa Caddesi. There star of the exhibition is undoubtedly statuette of
are many sights from the historical past of Amasya around Amasya from the Hittite period. A tomb of Sultan
these two streets. From East to West: Mesud I from Seljuk period can be found in mu-
seum’s garden. Of particular note are the mummies
Amasya was a religious and political center for central from the Mongol period, preserved by the air of their
Anatolia, and there are many small mosques that date mountain tombs. A bit gruesome but fascinating and
back to pre-Ottoman times. unexpected. 5 TL.
• Mehmet Paşa Camii (Mehmet Paşa Mosque). • There are two separate wax museums, one dedi-
Mosque built in 1486 by the Vicar son of Beyazit cated to the 7 Padishahs and one dedicated to Ana-
II. tolian life in the 16-19th centuries. Like everything
else mentioned, they are 3 TL. Not really recom-
• Bimarhane (Darüşşifa). The house, built during mended, however.
the Mongol period, was the first mental health re-
search facility that used music to treat its patients. • Şehzade Türbesi (Prince’s Tomb). Mausoleum that
For the past 75 years or so, it had been the home of was built for a son of Beyazits I in 1513. And also on
Amasya’s music conservatory in honor of its past, the main street almost opposite the Şehzade Türbesi
but has recently re-opened as a museum in tribute there is Şehzadeler Türbesi (Princes’ Tomb). It was
to the ground-breaking man who did research here. built for the sons of Mehmet I., Beyazit I and Beyazit
3 TL. II in 1410.
• Atatürk statue. The square in front of it invites • Halifet Gazi Türbesi (Halifet Gazi Tomb). Mau-
you to linger for a while. It is also a local meeting soleum that dates back to 1145 and is richly deco-
point. rated with Medusa’s and rams’ heads.
• Taş Hanı. This caravanserai from the 17th cen-
tury. Now it’s been converted into upscale hotel and • Gök Medrese (on the edge of town opposite the
restaurant. otogar). This madrasah was built by Seyfeddin To-
rumtay at approx. 1267 year. Previously, it had
• Burmali Minare Camii (Burmali Minaret Mosque) been completely covered with blue, although not
(directly behind the Taş Hanı). This mosque was much of that remained today. Its 15 domes con-
built in 1242 on behalf of the Emperor Kaichosrew struction provides a rather simple interiors. Note-
II. It received its present name “the mosque with the worthy are mainly the stalactites portal and the carv-
spiral minaret” in the 17th century after the renova- ings in the doors. Also two mummies of the Ilkhane
tion when the minaret was designed helical. were buried in the building. In front of it there is
Torumtay Türbesi (Torumtay Tomb) (directly be-
• Vakif Bedesten Kapali çarşı (Covered market). hind Gök Medrese). This mausoleum was created
This bazaar from 1483 is still in use. The shops sell for the provincial governor Seyfeddin Torumtay in
rather cheap international kitsch (e.g. “I Love NY” 1279.
- caps).
• There is a “house of suffering” that you can get to if
• Sultan Beyazıt Külliyesi (Mosque Complex of Sul- you walk up the hill from the town square, which was
tan Beyazit). Amasya’s largest mosque complex is an important Alevi pilgrimage spot, as its founder’s
dedicated to Beyazid II and built in 1486. It is on the turbe is nearby. You can go into the “suffering
190 CHAPTER 69. AMASYA
house” now that it’s no longer in use, and explore the room, and has service as good as any
small cells men would live in for months at a time, hamam in Istanbul for half the price.
with little food and water and outside contact, simply • Yildiz hamam (in the old part of town).
reading the Qur'an and meditating on it. It is dirty
• Yörgüç Pasa Camisi (Yörgüç Pasa Mosque). This • Kumacik hamam (between the otogar
mosque was built by the tutors of Sultan Mehmet I and the town square on the riverside). A
Yörgüç. Here you will find a hospital, three tombs small hamam which boasts of a pool.
and a Madrasah.
• Hiking. Mountains surround the city from all sides
• Fethiye Camii (Fethiye Mosque) (in the South on and can easily be walked.
the mountainside). This mosque was originally built
as a church in the 7th century and converted to the
mosque in 1117. Unfortunately, the mosque was 69.5 Buy
severely damaged in 1915 by a fire.
69.6 Eat
69.3.4 Surrounding area
• Ayınlı Magara (Mirror Cave) (North of the city on 69.7 Drink
the banks of Yeşilırmak river). Another rock tomb.
Inside there are some wall paintings, as it was used Generally, all the places in Amasya to go out at night have
as a church in Byzantine times. live music, with the exception of the three or four pubs.
Ali Kaya overlooks the entire city on its southeastern
69.3.5 Day trips side, and offers great views at night. Mostly plays Turku,
Turkish folk music, with a combination of classical and
• Borabay Golu (NE 50km following direction to modern instruments.
Taşova and Erbaa). Small mountain lake (at an al-
Eylul Bugusu, Grand Pasha, Emin Efendi
titude of 1050 m) is located at the foot of the moun-
and Mithridat are all basically indistinguishable
tain Ak Dağı (2,062 m high). Due to its location
bar/restaurants in the old part of town. You come, get
and forested area this is a very popular destination.
a table, and drink/eat there while listening to covers
Camping, picnic and trekking are possible.
of Turkish pop or folk music, depending on the night.
If you are there on a weekend, a reservation may be
• Terziköy Springs (35 km following the road to Ço-
required. If you're traveling around the old city during
rum). Thermal springs with 37 ° warm spring water
the day, the best thing to do is pop in the various local
with its healing effect. There is good tourist infras-
joints, pick which one suits your taste the most, and ask
tructure with over 100 hotel beds, cafe, restaurant,
for a reservation.
swimming pool and shops.
For Turkish tea time, there is a local chain called Yesil
Ev (green house) that you'll see around town. For a more
69.4 Do interesting experience, there is also the Municipal Tea
garden, sitting on the riverside near the clock tower. At
• Stroll along the river walk along with Amasya’s night in the warm months there is generally live music. If
townspeople. In the summer months, the street is you are a large party and you'd like to relax for a while,
closed at night because so many people are out. order the Semaver Cay which is the Turkish version of
the Russian Samovar, and you'll be drinking tea for hours.
• Amasya has several very old, nice hamams. They According to locals, though, the best tea and Turkish cof-
are all single-sex, open to men from 6-10 AM, fee is to be found at Gamasuk Cay Evi, which is on the
women 10AM-5PM, and men again 5PM-12. There main road, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk Caddesi, called Ust
are special days in the week for working women to caddesi (high street) by locals.Both men and women are
come at night, and the weekends are generally re- welcome at all of these places.
served entirely for men. Check with the hamams
ahead of time; if you are staying at a hotel they can
call and ask for you. 69.8 Sleep
• Mustafa Bey hamami (near the Bi- • Konfor Palas Oteli, Ziya Pasa Bulvari in the very
marhame). A beautifully restored build- centre. A budget place. Single with en suite is 35TL
ing that includes a Swiss-style sauna (summer 2010).
69.9. GO NEXT 191
• Kahvecioglu Otel, on the riverfront, southern side.

Free wifi, breakfast, great views from rooms over-
looking promenade, central location, friendly staff.
40TL for single ensuite, without bargaining (worth
that price!).
69.9 Go next
Chapter 70
Bogazkale
Boğazkale is a village in the Central Karadeniz region 70.7 Drink

in Turkey. It lies next to the ruins of the ancient Hittite
city of Hattusa (Turkish: Hattuşaş), a UNESCO World
Heritage site. 70.8 Sleep
• Hattusas pension, ☎ +90 364 452 2013. About
70.1 Get in the only hotel in Bogazkale, the hotel has a few
rooms with shared bathroom and a restaurant on the
ground floor. Run by Mustafa and Ahmet Baykal,
Bogazkale is off the Ankara - Samsun road from the town
the friendly owners, who are only to happy to chat
of Sungurlu and there are plenty of buses that run on that
and give advice. US$7-US$15.
route. Dolmuses and Buses run between Sungurlu and
Bogazkale but the service can be iffy. Taxis are available
between Sungurlu and Bogazkale.
70.9 Go next
70.2 Get around • Amasya — inland town on Yeşilırmak River with

whitewashed Ottoman architecture and ancient
tombs engraved on cliffs overlooking the town.
70.3 See
• Çorum - N 30 km.
• Hattusas, the ruins of a Hittite city dating from • Ordu — on the way to more popular cities and sites
about 2000 B.C. to 1000 B.C. At one time it must of eternally rainy and green Eastern Black Sea.
have been a great and impressive city but today lit-
tle remains except for the reconstructed foundations. • Samsun — largest city on the Turkish Black Sea
However, the plan of the city is still evident and coast with big city attractions: such as opera and mu-
walking around the ruins makes an interesting and seums. Also many sports, including wakeboarding
instructive day. in summer.
• Tokat
• Bogazkale Museum A few objects from the Hat-
tusas (most are in Ankara) and lots of photographs
of the excavations.
• Yazilkaya An excavation site containing Hittite

buildings. The foundations of large religious build-
ings from that period are still visible.
70.4 Do
70.5 Buy
70.6 Eat
192
Chapter 71
Ordu
• Old houses. Traditional houses of Ordu, some of

which are extremely elaborate, cascade from the
hillside towards the coast.
71.5 Do
71.6 Buy
71.7 Eat
71.8 Drink
Greek Church in Ordu
Ordu, ancient Kotiora, is a city in the central strech of

71.9 Sleep
Turkish Black Sea coast.
71.10 Connect
71.1 Understand Ordu’s telephone code is (+90) 452.
Thanks to the fierce local opposition, Ordu features the

only urban waterfront along the entire length of Turkish 71.11 Go next
coast east of Samsun that wasn't significantly altered by
the ugly embankments of the coastal motorway. • Cape Jason (Yason Burnu) — 15 km from nearby
Ordu has a population of about 137,000. town of Perşembe in the village of Çaytepe-Aziziye
(28 km west of Ordu in total), this cape is named af-
ter Jason of Argonauts, the mythological leader who
set sail in pursuit of golden fleece and went as far as
71.2 Get in Colchis, i.e., the end of the known world for ancient
Greeks. The cape is marked by a well-preserved
Ordu lies on the coastal highway D010. church, built in 1869.
71.3 Get around
71.4 See
• Taşbaşı Cultural Centre (Taşbaşı Kültür Merkezi).
On a terrace overlooking the sea, this place is a con-
verted pleasant cathedral with a central dome atop.
193
Chapter 72
Samsun
Samsun is a city in the Central Karadeniz region of though also the most comfortable, as trains are
Turkey. equipped with spacious seats, usually mostly empty,
It is the largest city on the Turkish Black Sea coast. and equipped with outlets and toilets.
72.1 Understand 72.3 Get around
Samsun has a special place in the republican history of The city has a network of trams, buses, dolmuşes, and
Turkey, as this is where the republic’s founder, Kemal taxis.
Atatürk, set foot to start the War of Independence in The city travelcard is called Samkart and can be bought
1919. at the main tram stops.
The very modern tramway, with its 21 stations all along
72.1.1 Climate the city between its terminii of Gar (mainline train sta-
tion) and University stations, is possibly the most useful
option.
72.2 Get in
Dolmuş are much more frequent than buses - you can al-
ways ask the driver details on where to get off, etc.
72.2.1 By air
There are automated bike rental stands along the seafront.
• Samsun-Çarşamba Airport (IATA: SZF, Samsun The central seafront is very easy and pleasant to cycle
Çarşamba Havaalanı), Çınarlık Bld., Girişi Pk (23 along but west to Atakum is more difficult as the rental
km East), ☎ +90 362 8848835. There are frequent stand in Batı Park is not yet operational and the bicycle
flights from Istanbul, daily from other big Turk- path past the Sheraton hotel is in poor condition and of-
ish cities and some international (mainly from Ger- ten blocked by construction vehicles. Although they plan
many) flights in summer. to accept foreign credit cards at the time of writing (Sept
2014) only Turkish credit cards are accepted. If you are
a foreign visitor your best bet currently is to go to the cen-
72.2.2 By bus tral rental stand, and either ask the Sambis staff who are
sometimes there if they can help, or join up with a Turk-
• Bus Station (Samsun Yusuf Ziya Yılmaz Şehirler- ish group. The three rental stands currently in use are all
arası Otobüs Terminali, Samsun Otogarı), Şht. Ko- on the seafront and are marked on OpenStreetMap.
rhan Ekiz Blv (W 5 km). Buses are a cheaper and
slower alternative than plane, particularly if you're
not coming from Ankara or Istanbul.
72.4 See
72.2.3 By train • Replica of SS Bandırma. This is the replica of the

ferry that took Kemal Atatürk from Istanbul to the
• Railway Station (TCDD Gar), Fuar Cd. (Cen- port of Samsun. Inside, there is a collection of pho-
ter). Samsun also has a railway connection with tographs of Atatürk and his comrades. You can also
the interior of the country, with passenger trains watch a short film.
plying the route between Samsun and Sivas via
Amasya back and forth. As with the rest of Turkey, • Atatürk and his comrades, 19 Mayis Blv. Walk-
this is both the slowest and cheapest alternative, ing from the bottom of 19 Mayis Blv towards the
194
72.5. DO 195
sea you can see life size models of historical fig- Atakum Beach is long, free and sandy and has nice cafes
ures; and Atatürk and his comrades alighting from across the small road from the beach. However there
another, partial, replica of the Bandırma at the sea is little shade and children and weak swimmers should
front. beware of the variable depth, especially when there are
waves.
• Amisos Hill (From the city centre take either num-
ber 1 (red) dolmus west to its last stop or tram to Fener Beach, has a small daily charge and is suitable for
Baruthane: then walk up. Alternatively take the cable small children in that the water is shallow, it has shade
car from Batı Park.). offers a sea view, Hellanistic and showers and is sheltered from waves. It is open from
era tombs, and cafes in pleasant grounds. 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. but only in summer. Access by public
transport involves crossing a busy road, so unless you are
• Kızılırmak Delta (West of the city). this is the staying at the Sheraton you may prefer to take a taxi if
delta plain of Turkey’s longest river (1355 km source you have small children.
to sea), Kızılırmak (literally “red river”, due to its
Bandırma Beach is closed for renovation as of 2014.
colour). The delta is great for birdwatching (320
species of birds call there home) as well as for fish-
ing. • Talk to the locals. For a city of half a million
there are very few foreigners: so most people will
• Mosque (Büyük Camii). be happy to chat if you want to. Try the sea front,
parks or outdoor cafes. No need to feel lonely if you
• Mosque (Kursunlu Camii).
are travelling on your own: just ask one of the many
• Göğceli Mosque (Mezarlık Cami), Terme Caddesi English language schools if their students need any
(Cemil Şensoy Cd.) (Çay Mahallesi in Çarşamba, a conversation practice - especially if you are a native
town a little further east (~30 km), inside Göğceli English speaker they will welcome you with open
cemetery, (Göğçeli Mezarlığı)). One of the rare arms.
wooden mosques in Turkey, this one dates back to
1206, and its construction does not involve even a
single nail (all wooden plates were inserted through 72.5.1 Parks
each other).
In summer locals love to barbeque in the big parks and
• Bedestan (Tarihi Bedestan Çarşısı), Namık Kemal drink tea from samovars.
Cd.
• Atatürk Park (aka Egg Park) (Central). —, small
and shady: with the famous statue.
72.4.1 Museums
• East Park (Doğu Park) (By the sea.). There are a
• Gazi Museum, Gazi Cd., in Mecidiye (Center). is a lot of trees, basketball and football areas and a lot of
witness to Atatürk’s activities while in Samsun. The cafes. From here you could walk up the River Mert.
collection includes some clothes and personal para-
phernalia, purportedly belonging to him. It also in- • West Park (Batı Park) (Take dolmus or tram to
cludes a number of old photographs and maps. Baruthane). — Big, with plenty of kitsch. Also by
the sea but the trees have not had much time to grow
• Archaeology and Ethnographic Museum, 19 yet. Has cable car to Amisos Hill.
Mayıs Blv No:5, (near Cumhuriyet Center). is ded-
icated to local history and artifacts, including the
golden Amisos Treasure. 72.5.2 Theater
• City Museum, Fuar Cd., Kale Mh.. So new the
• Arts. If you are interested in arts, you will find a
tobacco still smells good.
thing or two that you might like. There is a very large
and interesting opera building with weekly shows.
72.5 Do
72.5.3 Sports
• Sea Front — Good for walking or cycling, or you
can take a ride in a horse drawn carriage. • Go Karting. There is a go kart course in Batıpark
(West Park)
• Boat trip. A trip along the coast which takes 2
hours, on a boat named Samsunum (“my Samsun”). • Fishing. The Black Sea is rich in fish varieties.
• Beaches: • Horseriding. There is a course in town.

196 CHAPTER 72. SAMSUN
• Paintball. There is a paintball ground in the locality 72.11 Connect

known as Körfez, somewhat far from city centre.
72.11.1 Internet
• Wakeboarding. In summer water skiiers are towed
around by an overhead circuit, near Dogupark (East • TTNET Wi-Fi at the airport is slower than the local
Park) tortoises.
• Internet cafes usually cost 1 lira/hour, but they're

quite slow.
72.6 Events • Internet in hotels is also quite slow.
• Festivals. Two festivals are celebrated annually in

the city. Some competitions are held during the 72.12 Go next
Bike Festival. On the other hand, concerts of pop-
ular singers are to be found during the Festival of
• Amasya (SW 90 km - 3 hrs by train or 2 by coach,
OMÜ (Ondokuz Mayıs Üniversitesi, one of the local
Train (7.5 TL single) is the nicest way to travel there:
universities). Both festivals are usually celebrated
after leaving the outskirts of Samsun in the morning
around the end of June.
the first hour of the journey is the most scenic; peach
orchards followed by a steep green river valley. The
train is comfortable with plenty of space: but bring
72.7 Buy your own snacks or drinks as none are served.). —
to the south is a pleasant riverside city with white-
washed houses and plenty of other historic attrac-
72.8 Eat tions.
• Bogazkale (SW 310 km). — town close to Hat-

Pide is one of Samsun’s delicious 'events’ and has
tuşaş, which was once the capital of Hittite Empire,
four different types available Kapalı, peynirli-yumurtalı
indigenous people of Anatolian highlands
(cheese&egg), pastırmalı-yumurtalı (spicy bacon&egg)
and sucuklu-yumurtalı (Turkish wurst&egg) although • Ordu (NE 175—km (2.5 hours)). — on the way to
there are some further varieties also possible such as more popular cities and sites of eternally rainy and
spinach, kavurmalı etc. green Eastern Black Sea
The local people all eat pide every Sunday almost ritual- • Sinop (3 hrs to west). — an ancient fortified port
istically. city jutting out on a peninsula into Turkey’s north-
These pides are totally unique to the city, so don't expect ernmost tip
to find them anywhere else.
• Sivas (7 hours by train to the south). is an important
city in Turkish history, today relatively small, but
• Destur Restaurant & Banquet Room, kale ma- with a lovely Madresa complex, and a gateway to
hallesi kazımpaşa caddesi no:5(cumhuriyet meydanı Central Anatolia.
vakıflar bankası atm bitişiği), ikadım /samsun 55030
(From Cumhuriyet Square face towards the sea and it • Trabzon, Trabzon Province. (3.5 hours by car, 6
is near Vakif Bank to your front left(cumhuriyet mey- hours by bus). — with its seaside view badly ruined
danı vakıflar bankası atm bitişiği)), ☎ +90 362 333 by the Black Sea Highway, is still an important his-
3380. Eat traditional food, drink Ottoman sherbert torical city, that is great fun to explore. The main
and talk about all the old stuff. city of the northeast has a lot to offer a visitor, and
is the place to stay when traveling to the stunning
Sümela Monastery. Take a tour to Lake Uzungöl
72.9 Drink • Tokat (S 205 km).
72.10 Sleep
• Venn Butik Otel, Cumhuriyet Mahallesi Adnan

Menderes Bulvarı No.325, Atakum, ☎ +90 362
4070001. Beachfront hotel. +phones=+90 362
4070002/3
Chapter 73
Tokat
Tokat is in Central Karadeniz, in Turkey. 73.2.3 By car
Tokat is located at the junction point of roads connect-

ing Blacksea region and Mid Anatolia such as D850 and
73.1 Understand D180.
73.3 Get around

As like many other Anatolian cities, Tokat also has a
main avenue, GOP Caddesi, where most of stores, banks,
restarurants etc are located. Public buses are available
along the avaneu, costing 1.5 TL, however, as distances
are short, walking is a better option.
73.4 See
Tokat panorama
Tokat is an inland city in the north of Central Anatolia,

Turkey.
Tokat is a historical city, having important historical
buildings and monuments mostly from Seljuq, Ilkhanate
and Ottoman eras. Today, Tokat is a mid-sized Anatolian
city with a population of more than 130,000 people. His-
toric core of the city lies around the castle whereas new
city extends along with the banks of Yeşilırmak.
73.2 Get in Ali Pasha Mosque
73.2.1 By bus In the south of the castle, Sulusokak is located where

you can find many historical mosques, tombs and cara-
There are several daily buses from Istanbul and Ankara. vanserais. Most probably, Sulusokak is the oldest com-
A bus ride from Istanbul takes more than 12 hrs while bus mercial and social hub of the city. Transylvanian Prince
ride from Ankara takes 6 hrs. Vlad III, better known as Vlad Țepeș/Vlad the Impaler,
the main inspiration behind Bram Stroker’s Count Drac-
ula, in his early life, was imprisoned by Ottomans in Tokat
73.2.2 By plane Castle which has been built on a rocky hill near Sulu-
sokak. In the Cumhuriyet square, Ali Pasha Mosque and
Tokat has a small airport. Anadolu Jet offers scheduled Bathhouse from 16th century are located. In “Meydan”
flights from/to Istanbul and Ankara. district, Hatuniye Meydan Mosque and Taşhan hostelry
197
198 CHAPTER 73. TOKAT
73.11 Go next
Around Tokat, there are historical cities such as Amasya
and Sivas.
Tokat Mevlevihane
are located. Clock Tower has been built in Behzat

Square next to historical Behzat Mosque in 1901 to cel-
ebrate 25th anniversary of Abdulhamid II’s reign. Be-
hzat Square was the administrative center of the city in
19th and early 20th centuries, hosting much of govern-
ment buildings, Clock Tower, Mevlevihane and Yüksek
Kahve (High Coffee House).
73.5 Do
73.6 Buy
73.7 Eat
You can eat traditional Tokat Kebabı composed of meat
and several vegetables in the spring and summer.
• Ballıca Hotel Restaurant (on the road to Turhal).
• İşeri, Geyras (the most southern district of city).
• Mollaoğlu, Meydan.
73.8 Drink
73.9 Sleep
Four-star Büyük Tokat Oteli and four-star Grand Ballıca
Oteli offers comfortable stay in Tokat. Öğretmenevi is a
more economic alternative.
73.10 Connect
The local telephone code is (+90) 356.
Chapter 74
Çorum
Çorum is a capital of Çorum province. And it’s a pretty 74.9 Sleep

unremarkable provincial city.
About a dozen of hotels exist.
74.1 Understand
74.10 Connect
74.2 Get in
74.11 Go next
• Bus station (about 1.5km SW of city center).
• Amasya (E 92km) — inland town on Yeşilırmak
Located on Ankara - Samsun highway. And thus there River with whitewashed Ottoman architecture and
are plenty of buses following that road: Amasya (1.5 hrs), ancient tombs engraved on cliffs overlooking the
Ankara (4 hrs), Kayseri (4 hrs), Samsun (3 hrs), Sungurlu town.
(and nearby Hattusa) (1 hr).
• Tokat (E 188 km) — historical city, having impor-
tant historical buildings and monuments.
74.3 Get around There are important archaeological sites in 90 km to the

south:
74.4 See
• Alaca Hüyük
• Clock tower (city center).
• Hattusa, including the rock sanctuary Yazılıkaya
• Çorum museum, Gülabi Bey Mah., Cengiz Topel

Cd, ☎ (0364) 213 1568. Exhibits some historical
and ethnographic findings.
• 13th-century mosque.
• A few Ottoman era structures
74.5 Do
74.6 Buy
74.7 Eat
74.8 Drink
199
Chapter 75
Eastern Karadeniz
Eastern Karadeniz (Turkish: Doğu Karadeniz) is a re- year, the biodiversity of Eastern Karadeniz reaches the
gion in Black Sea Turkey, including the Artvin, Giresun, levels of tropical rainforests in some areas. Most of the
Gümüşhane, Rize, and Trabzon provinces. higher parts of the mountains which dominate the re-
gion and usually ascending right from the coastline and
giving way for little land for development are covered
75.1 Regions with lush forests, while yet highest parts are covered with
alpine meadows and glacier lakes with the lower foothills
are mostly tea plantations—a subtropical plant which can
75.2 Cities grow abundantly in the region thanks to the shielding ef-
fect of Caucasus Mountains from the cold northern winds
• Ayder — village up in the lush Kaçkar Moun- in addition to the generous rainfall. Other important
tains/Pontic Alps crops include hazelnuts and citrus.
Eastern Karadeniz is the part of the region which Turks
• Giresun — city with a well-preserved citadel, a
mostly think of when they hear Karadeniz, i.e. Black Sea.
Greek cathedral, and a lively nightlife; starting point
for trips to the only Turkish island in the Black Sea
• Rize — centre of the country’s tea-growing region.

Not a real tourist attraction, but a good base for ex- 75.4.1 People
ploring the northeast.
Although all locals are colloquially, incorrectly, and
• Sürmene somewhat derogatorily called “Laz” collectively by the
• Torul — a hill town inland near to Zigana Pass Turks from elsewhere, Eastern Karadeniz, though over-
whelmingly ethnically Turkish, has indeed a rich blend
• Trabzon — biggest city and hub of the region of ethnic make-up despite its relatively small size, like
a microcosm of much larger multi-national former Ot-
toman Empire. In addition to the majority Turks, a num-
75.3 Other destinations ber of towns east, west, and south of Trabzon are inhab-
ited by Muslim Turks with a Pontic Greek background
(very few of them who are almost exclusively elderly, still
75.4 Understand retain their ancestral language, though calling them and
their language outright “Greek” may heavily offend some
of them). The Hemşin people, Muslimized brethren of
Armenians, are present in the region, too, living in in-
land valleys south of Rize (most of the Hemshin people
do not regard themselves as “Armenians” and, as with
the Pontic Greek descendants, calling them and their lan-
guage outright “Armenian” may heavily offend some of
them). Then there are the actual Laz people, distant
cousins of Georgians, living in coastal towns east of Rize
up to the Georgian border. A number of inland villages
A hamlet with traditional local architecture up on lush and misty in the east corner of the region, just south of Turkish-
Kaçkar Mountains/Pontic Alps Georgian border (mainly in Macahel valley) are inhabited
by Muslim Georgians, who chose to stay within borders
A humid and verdant region as a consequence of the of predominantly-Muslim Turkey rather than then-Soviet
high precipitation levels distributed evenly throughout the Georgia in a referandum in early 1920s.
200
75.8. SEE 201
75.5 Talk The highway D010, which was recently upgraded to

motorway standards, closely follows the coastline—
As aforementioned, there are very few pockets of peo- sometimes too closely that it replaces the coastline as
ple speaking Pontic Greek (locally known as Romeika, the motorway was built at cost of almost all of region’s
and which is not completely mutually intelligible with beaches, and forms the main backbone of transportation
modern Greek as Pontic variant retains more of me- in the region from one end to another.
dieval/Byzantine Greek characteristics), Hemşin dialect
of Armenian, Laz which is distantly related to Georgian
spoken in the neighbouring country, and Georgian 75.8 See
proper, although Turkish is sufficient to communicate
whomever you are speaking to in the region. Locals speak The hills and valleys of the eastern section of the region,
Turkish in an accent that non-local Turks usually find around the valley of Çoruh, is dotted with ruins of Geor-
“funny” and like to chaff at—indeed Eastern Karadeniz gian churches and citadels, as the region was southern
Turkish is a major theme in Turkish jokes folklore, but part of the medieval Georgian kingdom. Some of these
the local Turks dislike this stereotyping and find it offen- churches and citadels are mostly intact while some others
sive. are almost totally ruined, and most lie on sites that are
fairly off the beaten path.
75.6 Get in
75.8.1 Trabzon Province
Trabzon is the main hub of transportation into the region. • Kuştul Monastery (Turkish: Kuştul Man-
astırı, Greek: Ιερά Μονή του Αγίου Γεωργίου
• Trabzon is the site of the sole airport in the region, Περιστερεώτα), Trabzon Province (near Şimşirli
with links to the big cities in the rest of the country. village, 30 km southeast of Trabzon).
• Trabzon, and Rize to a lesser degree, are served by • Kaymaklı Monastery (Monastery of the All-
frequent buses from rest of the country, especially Saviour, Ամենափրկիչ Վանք), Hizmet Cd., Tra-
big cities such as Istanbul and Ankara. However, bzon suburb? (2 km East).
as the region lies on the far northeastern corner of • Vazelon Monastery, Maçka district, Trabzon
the country, distances are huge and bus ride from, Province (40 km south of Trabzon). Founded in 270
for example, Istanbul can easily take a full day and AD. Now, ruined and abandoned
night.
• Kızlar Monastery (Panagia Monastery, Kızlar
• There are also some ferries from Russian Black Sea Manastırı), Desen Sokak and Mht. Coşkun
Coast to Trabzon. Karaağaçlı Cd. corner, Boztepe Mh., Trabzon.
Founded in 1360’s. There is a rock church
• Pontic Mountains (Turkish: Kuzey Anadolu

75.7 Get around Dağları, meaning North Anatolian Mountains), Tra-
bzon Province. Many trekking, hiking, possibility.
Zil Castle, Palovit Waterfall
• Sümela (Turkish: Sümela Manastırı, Greek: Μονή

Παναγίας Σουμελά, Moní Panagías Soumelá)),
Trabzon Province. — stunning monastery hanging
on a cliff in the lush Altındere Valley, this ancient
Orthodox monastery is well worth a trip to the re-
gion only by itself
75.8.2 Rize Province

• Zilkale, Zilkale Village Way (Zilkale Köyü Yolu)
(up the road past Şenyuva, up the road from
Çamlıhemşin, just east of Ayder). — a beautiful ru-
Typical road scene from interior Eastern Karadeniz. Pictured ined Byzantine-era castle, lost in the dense woods of
here is the road leading to Lake Uzungöl. a mountain valley.
202 CHAPTER 75. EASTERN KARADENIZ
75.8.3 Itineraries
75.9 Do
• Trekking in Kaçkar Mountains National Park
(Kaçkar Dağları Milli Parkı) (Rize Province. 80km
East). between the hamlets and summer meadows
(yayla) of the misty and lush Kaçkar Mountains is a
popular activity.
75.10 Eat
The local people are known to be great lovers of local an-
chovy, hamsi, and experiment with incorporating it into
just about anything, including delicious hamsi böreği, in
which rice surrounded by anchovies all over is baked in
the oven, and fairly unique hamsi tatlısı, which is a cake
filled with anchovies, and topped by a concoction of fruits
and sweet syrup.
Unlike the rest of the country, the main grain of local cui-
sine is corn, as wheat cannot stand to grow in the damp
climate and rugged territory of the region. Corn flour
is cooked into great breads, and muhlama, another local
taste which basically consists of corn flour, butter, cheese,
and salt.
75.11 Drink
75.12 Stay safe
75.13 Go next
• Central Karadeniz to west is the extension of the
Black Sea coast, yet with less mountains and much
more plains.
• Eastern Anatolia to the south, just over the Pon-
tic Mountains, is high territory with cold weather—
even in summer—and is almost a world apart from
the coast.
• Travellers heading further east enters Georgia’s
Black Sea coast via Sarpi border gate.
Chapter 76
Ayder
Ayder is a resort town in Eastern Karadeniz region of 76.5 Buy

Turkey, up in the lush Kaçkar Mountains, surrounded by
waterfalls.
76.6 Eat
• Yilmaz Cafeterya, ☎ 0.464.657 21 43. A really
76.1 Get in sweet family-run restaurant with fantastic soups and
Turkish fondue. It’s a little more than halfway up
Getting in is easy(ish): Take a bus from either Trabzon, the hill on the main street in Ayder (on the left side
Rize or Hopa to Pazar and take a dolmush from there if you are going up the hill). They speak a little bit
(though the last departure is at about 6PM during sum- of English, and they're friendly as can be. 5-8 TL
mertime) mains.
76.7 Drink
76.2 Get around
Walk till your heart’s content or take a Dolmush back to 76.8 Sleep
Chamlihemshin (to get cash or get into another valley) or
Pazar. You could do a lot worse than stay at Zirve Ahsap pan-
siyon. A Chalet-type pension catering largely for families
It’s a nice trek up to Yukarı Kavron, mountain pastures
but also quite suitable for others. It’s behind the buildings
higher in the valley, towards the Kackar peak. However,
north of the Dolmush stop in Ayder; Head up the moun-
there are far too many vehicles during the summer. It'a
tainside left from the baker’s, Take the path parallel to
better idea to take the Dolmush, from the center of Ayder,
the main road. It’s behind a gaudy concrete building and
and start your trek from Kavron.
a water trough. The cost ran at about 20 YTL per person
per night (August 2007) The telephone number is 0464
6572177
76.3 See
Beautiful mountain scenery and maybe Hemshin people 76.9 Connect
dancing and playing a peculiar sounding bagpipe.
76.10 Go next
76.4 Do Take the dolmush to Pazar and from there a bus to Trab-
zon or Rize
• Walk through the beautiful mountain scenery; it the
Kackars... Head up mount Kackar or to the three
lakes or... well enough to see and do. It is advisable
to hire a guide though.
• Take a dip in the hot spring pool at the local

hamam—hot and wonderful after a day’s hike.
203
Chapter 77
Giresun
Giresun is a city in eastern Turkish Black Sea coast. • Giresun Island (Giresun Adası). Except for tiny
rocks, this is the only Turkish island in the Black
Sea. Situated 1.2 km offshore, it is possible to rent a
77.1 Understand boat to the island from the city. Surrounded by ver-
dant bushes and trees of the island are the ruins of
a roofless temple and some fortifications, which are
The name of “cherry” in many languages (including En- believed to be used by Amazons, a legendary clan of
glish itself) derives from the ancient name of Giresun— all-female warriors who terrorized the lands around
Kerasus—as the city was where cherries were first ex- the Black Sea in ancient times.
ported to Europe, during Roman times.
Giresun today has a population of about 115,000, and has
a relatively liberal culture compared with its neighbours
in Eastern Karadeniz. 77.5 Do
77.2 Get in 77.6 Buy
77.2.1 By car 77.7 Eat

Giresun lies on the coastal highway D010, about 175 km
west of Trabzon, the major city of Eastern Karadeniz. 77.8 Drink
With plenty of bars, Giresun has a relatively lively
77.2.2 By plane nightlife, and the destination of weekend trips for many
regional visitors from nearby cities of Ordu and Trabzon.
The closest commercial airport is Trabzon Airport, TZX.
From there you can take a bus or service shuttle to Gire-
sun.
77.9 Sleep
77.3 Get around • Otel Kaan, Osmanağa Cad. Çapulacılar Sok 8, ☎
+90 454 212-65-14. Check-out: noon. Central, no-
77.4 See frills one-star hotel in a side street. Very good value,
with buffet breakfast, wi-fi and free parking at adja-
cent garage.
• Citadel (Giresun Kalesi). A well-preserved citadel
in city centre.
• Otel Kale (up a steep cobblestoned street leading
• Giresum Museum (Giresun Müzesi), Atatürk Bulv. to the university). Basic, no-star, clean, free wi-fi,
62 (below the citadel, close to the waterfront), ☎ cheapest option.
+90 454 212-13-22, fax: +90 454 212-54-75, e-
mail: giresunmuzesi@kultur.gov.tr. M-F 8AM-
5PM. Housed in a Greek cathedral dating back to • Hotel Kit-Tur (on the main shopping street leading
18th century, overlooking the sea and with a view 100 meters uphill from the harbor). 3-star, but with
of the island. 3 TL; under 17 and over 65 yrs free. low prices, very good value.
204
77.11. GO NEXT 205
77.10 Connect
Telephone code of Giresun is (+90) 454.
77.11 Go next
Chapter 78
Rize
Rize is a city on Turkey's Black Sea coast. Not a real 78.3 See
tourist attraction, but a good base for exploring the north-
east. It’s the centre of the country’s tea-growing humid
northeastern coast.
Entrance to Rize Castle
View of Rize
• Rize Kalesi (Rize Castle).
• Ethnographic Museum.
78.1 Get in • Visit the Botanik Çay Baçhesi (Botanical Tea Gar-
den) and drink Rize’s famous tea and sample local
78.1.1 By plane desserts.
Turkish Airlines offers daily flights into Trabzon Airport • Take a dolmuş to Tepebaşı from the mosque (cami)
(havaalanı). north of the central square. There are a number of
excellent and affordable restaurants in Tepebasi that
Pegasus offers discounted fares to Trabzon from Istanbul offer a full panorama of the city from a hilltop just
and Ankara. outside of the city.
78.1.2 By bus 78.4 Do

One can reach Rize by taking a bus or dolmuş from
• Drink tea and/or eat fish at a number of seaside
Trabzon.
restaurants along the coast opposıte from the cıty
center.
78.2 Get around

78.5 Buy
Much of Rize can be accessed on foot or by shuttle bus
(Dolmuş). Buy tea (çay)!
206
78.10. GO NEXT 207
78.6 Eat
Try local Karadeniz specialties such as Muhlama, Hamsi
Boreği, and Alabalik.
78.7 Drink
Rize is the capital city of TEA, you can drink tea.
78.8 Sleep
• Dedeman Rize. A reputable 4+ star hotel in Rize.
• Keleş otel. An acceptable (and unremarkable) two-

star hotel near the city center. Rates for a two-
person room started at 75 TL as of July 2009.
78.9 Connect
78.10 Go next
Ottoman Bridge spanning the Fırtına River near Çamlıhemşin,

south of Rize
• Take a dolmuş to Ayder, access-point for the Kaçkar

Dağlar (Kaçkar Mountains).
• Çamlıhemşin with its stunning Ottoman Bridge

spanning the Fırtına River.
Chapter 79
Sürmene
Sürmene is a town in eastern portion of Turkish Black

Sea coast, near Trabzon.
Not to be confused with Sümela Monastery.
79.1 Get in
79.2 See
• Memish Agha Mansion
79.3 Do
79.4 Buy
79.5 Eat
79.6 Drink
79.7 Sleep
79.8 Connect
79.9 Go next
208
Chapter 80
Torul
Torul is a town over the mountains south of Trabzon, on • Ballı Sarma (sweet desert with pestil,honey and nuts
the inland side of the Zigana Pass in the eastern Black Sea )
region of Turkey.
• Apple (Elma)
• Apple tea (Elma Çayı)
80.1 Get in
• Rose hip (Kuşburnu)
Busses from Trabzon run every half hour and take about • Rose hip tea (Kuş Burnu Çayı)
and hour and a half.
• Home-made butter (Ev yapımı tereyağı)
The Gumusavadi company does Trabzon-Torul in an
hour and ten minutes for 7.00 TL • Çökelik (a kind of cheese)
From Gumushane, you can take a dolmush for 3.50 TL • Deleme (a kind of cheese)
• Rose-hip syrup (Kuşburnu pekmezi)
80.2 Get around • Mulberry syrup (Dut pekmezi)
80.3 See
80.6 Eat
• Karaca Cave (Karaca Mağarası)
Local delicacies include lamb chop (kuzu pirzola),
• Village of Gümüştuğ (Gümüştuğ Köyü) and Turkish pizza with minced meat/cheese/yolk (kıy-
malı/peynirli/yumurtalı pide). If you are up in the villages
• Torul Castle (Torul Kalesi) don't forget to taste siron and trout (alabalık).
• Torul Dam (Torul Barajı) If you are in town on Monday or Friday, also taste lamb
döner (kuzu döner), which is only available twice a week.
• Lake Limni (Limmi Gölü)
• Three Lakes (Üç Göller) (in Gümüştuğ)

80.7 Drink
• Five Lakes (Beş Göller) (in Gümüştuğ)
• Yılanlı Plateau (Yılanlı Yaylası) (in Gümüştuğ) 80.8 Sleep

The Kale Palace Hotel is near the bus station.
80.4 Do
80.5 Buy 80.9 Stay safe
Local agricultural products include: 80.10 Connect

• Pestil
80.11 Go next
• Köme
209
Chapter 81
Trabzon
81.2 Get in
81.2.1 By plane
• Airport (E 10 km - Beşirli-Airport Bus trans-

fer to the city with seven stops, the last (most
western point) at Beşirli Uzunkum Hotel), ☎ +90
462 3280940, fax: +90 462 3259950, e-mail:
infotrabzon@dhmi.gov.tr. By daily planes from
Ankara, Istanbul and Izmir. There are also planes
from Adana (Pegasus Airlines) and Bursa (Borajet),
as well as scheduled international flights from cer-
Atatürk Square in downtown Trabzon tain European and regional cities.
Trabzon (formerly Trebizond) is in the Eastern Karad-

eniz region of Turkey. 81.2.2 By bus
• Bus Station (Otogar Trabzon), Terminal Sk (~2.5

81.1 Understand km East. There will be a “servis” (free shuttle bus)
from the bus station to the city center.), ☎ +90 462
A major trade centre since times immemorial—for long, 325 2343.
Trabzon was a main port-of-call on one of the main routes
between Europe and Persia and beyond, which involved Buses from all major cities in Turkey. Example (price,
taking a ship across the Black Sea from Romania—and journey time, density): Istanbul (65 , 18 hrs, several per
visited by Marco Polo among many others, Trabzon is today); Kayseri near Cappadocia (-,12 hrs, daily). Tbilisi,
day one of the major cities of Turkey’s northeastern coast. Georgia (about 12 hours) which serve as a useful point of
In medieval times, city served as the capital of Empire of entry to the country from Caucasus, also hourly leaves a
Trebizond, which was ruled by the Komnenos family— bus to Batumi (the bus actual stops at the Georgian border
which also provided several emperors to the Byzantine and then you can take a taxi or minibus, 25-30TL). Kars:
throne in Constantinople. The longest surviving rump daily bus at 9:30AM and midnight (around eight hours).
Byzantine state, Trabzon was captured by Ottoman Turks Ardahan: (45 , - , at 12:30PM ). Doğubeyazıt (leaves
in 1461, almost a decade after the fall of Constantinople. at 10PM, arriving 10AM). Ulusoy (four-six per day, 5
hours. 25 TL (2012)). Torul and Gümüşhane (hourly
until 20.00).
81.1.1 Tourist office It might be a good idea to book tickets in advance. There
are many travel /ticket agent shops around Atatürk Alani
• Tourist office (Trabzon Turizm Bürosu) (one block
(the main square in Trabzon) who can help with this.
to the east of Atatürk Alani square, down Camii
Sk., just beyond Hotel Nur), ☎ +90 462 3264760.
For general tourist information. The clerk speaks
English very well and provides you with a wealth 81.2.3 By boat
of information about Trabzon and its surroundings
(pdf). Before doing anything in Trabzon, go to the • Seaport, Kemankeş Caddesi No: 47, ☎ +90 212
tourist office. 2515000, e-mail: tdibasin@tdi.gov.tr.
210
81.4. SEE 211
Turkish Maritime Lines used to operate two weekly fer-

ryboats between Istanbul and Trabzon. However, as of
2007, this service has been canceled.
There are also ferries twice weekly from Sochi on Russian
Black Sea coast. Which takes 5-6 hours and costs US$
110/passenger one way. Timetable available at Sochi
port’s website (in Russian).
81.3 Get around
Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) of Trabzon
81.4.2 Museums
• Aya Sofya Museum (Trabzon Ayasofya Müzesi),

Ayasofya Caddesi (W 3 km. - You can reach here by
Map of the centre of Trabzon including most important streets, any Dolmuş marked 'Aya Sofya', which depart from
buildings, parks, squares, etc. the north side of Atatürk Alani square. The ride take
5-10 minutes, and costs about 1,5 TL. This should
be one of your sights while in Trabzon.). A beautiful
and picturesque church converted into a mosque and
81.4 See later into a museum that still has stunning frescoes
within—just like its namesake in Istanbul. There is
a peaceful open-air tea garden on the grounds.
81.4.1 Churches and Mosques
• City Museum (Trabzon Müzesi). Tu-Su 9:00-
• St.Anna Church (Hagia Anna, Küçük Ayvası 12:00, 13:00-18:00. Former Mansion of Banker
Kilise), Ziyaret Sk No:9. Kostaki Teophylaktos (Kostaki Konağı), built in
1889. The first floor houses the gallery of ethno-
• Former Eugenios Church (Hagios Eugenios, Yeni graphical artefacts 3 TL.
Cuma Camii), Cami Sk 26-76. Now it is a Mosque.
Founded in 13th Century • Trabzon Ataturk House Museum (Trabzon
Atatürk Köşkü Müzesi), in Soğuksu Village.
• St John Church (Sotha Kilisesi), Haneci Sokak (1.
Çulha Sk.). • Memorial House Museum of Akçaabat (Akçaa-
bat Ortamahalle Evleri Müzesi).
• St. Mary Church (Santa Mariya Katolik Klisesi),
Sümer Sk. • Şamil Ekinci Müzesi (Shamil Ekinci Museum).
• Ahi Evren Dede Mosque.

81.4.3 Mansions
• Ortahisar Mosque (Ortahisar Camii). Former
Golden Head’s Virgin Church Founded in 11th Cen- • Atatürk Pavilion (Atatürk Köşkü) (quarter).
tury
• Yakupoglu Memis Aga Mansion (Yakupoğlu
• İskender Pasha Mosque (İskender Paşa Camii), Memiş Ağa Konağı) (Sürmene quarter).
Meydan Cami Sk.
• Ahmet Aga Mansion (Yakupoğlu Ahmet Ağa Kon-
• Semerciler Mosque (Semerciler Camii). ağı) (Sürmene quarter).
• Bazaar Mosque (Çarşı Camii), Çarşı Cami Sokak. • 99 Window Hashim Aga Mansion (99 Pencereli
Haşim Ağa Konağı) ('Sürmene' quarter).
• Gulbahar Hatun Mosque & Tomb (Gülbahar
Hatun Camii), Yavuz Selim Bulvarı (Tanjant Cd.). • Mustafa Topal Mansion (Sarımollaoğlu Topal
Founded in 1507 Mustafa Konaği) ('Araklı' quarter).
212 CHAPTER 81. TRABZON
• Cakiroglu Ismail Aga Mansion (Çakıroğlu İsmail • Pontic Mountains (Turkish: Kuzey Anadolu
Ağa Konağı) ('Of' quarter). Dağları, meaning North Anatolian Mountains, Tra-
bzon Province). Many trekking, hiking, possibility.
• Cakiroglu Hasan Aga Mansion (Çakıroğlu Hasan Zil Castle, Palovit Waterfall
Ağa Konağı) ('Of' quarter).
• Nemlioglu Mansion (Nemlioglu Konak, Nemlioğlu • Günes Sanat Galerisi (Art gallery), village Zigana
Konağı) (Central). (also called Kalkanli) (about 1 hour by bus from Tra-
bzon eastward over the mountains towards Torul and
• Former Alaca Turkish Bath (Alaca Hamam), Gümüshane). This art gallery is made by mr Azmi
Kazancilar Sokak. A monument. Aytekin, a 73 year old painter and thinker from Zi-
gana. He has traveled around the world, and has set-
tled in the small village Zigana (also called Kalkanli)
81.4.4 Further afield near the magnificent Zigana mountains. Visit his
homepage for pictures.
• Sürmene (Greek: Σούρμενα, Sourmena; Ottoman
Turkish: ‫( ))ﺳﻮرﻣﻨﻪ‬E 40 km). 5 km to the west of
Sürmene, stands a ruined medieval castle
• Uzungöl Lake (Uzungöl gölü) (99 km from Trab-
zon, 19 km from Caykara). A lake up in the moun-
tains at an altitude of 1090 m. A great number
of broken rocks from the slopes filled up Haldizen
stream and Uzungöl was formed in this way. The
lake is 1000 m long, 500 m in width and 15 m in
depth. - It is surrounded by forests. Uzungöl has
an interesting view with the village houses around
it. And there are some other small lakes on the
Kuştul Monastery mountains which are 15-20 km. from Uzungol. The
lake is also surrounded by convenient tracks for hik-
ing. There are some facilities such as bungalows and
• Fortress of Trabzon some establishments which rear trout. Travel agen-
cies organize day tours during summer (40 TL).
• Arsenal
• Kalepark Fortress (East) Sümela Monastery

• Akçakale Fortress (West 18 km)
• Cevdet Sunay Memorial House, Çaykara-Sultan

Murat Rd (21km. In Ataköy). Cevdet Sunay was
one of the statesmen grown up in Trabzon. He was
born in this small town. Since 2001, museum.
• Kuştul Monastery (Turkish: Kuştul Man-

astırı, Greek: Ιερά Μονή του Αγίου Γεωργίου
Περιστερεώτα) (near Şimşirli village, 30 km south-
east of Trabzon).
• Kaymaklı Monastery (Monastery of the All-

Saviour, Ամենափրկիչ Վանք), Hizmet Cd., Tra-
bzon suburb? (2 km East).
• Kızlar Monastery (Panagia Monastery, Kızlar Sümela Monastery

Manastırı), Desen Sokak and Mht. Coşkun
Karaağaçlı Cd. corner, Boztepe Mh.. Founded in
1360’s. There is a rock church • Sümela Monastery (Turkish: Sümela Manastırı;
Greek: Panagia Soumela, Virgin Mary of Soumela),
• Vazelon Monastery, Maçka district, (40 km south Altındere Vadisi, Maçka, ☎ 0462 5311064, e-mail:
of Trabzon). Founded in 270 AD. Now, ruined and sumela@muze.gov.tr. Apr-Oct 09:00-18:00 (winter
abandoned 1 hour shorter). Entrance 15 TL (Aug 2014).
81.5. DO 213
monastery on their own means instead of taking a

tour can get to Maçka by taking minibuses head-
ing for Gümüşhane, Erzurum or other destinations
south from Trabzon. The rest of the way, approx-
imately 17 km to the actual site of monastery, can
be done by hitchaking. The dolmuş from downtown
Maçka have the same price than if you would buy
it from Trabzon(20TL) and departs at 10h30, which
will take you to the entrance of Altındere National
Park (Milli Park). Then, the monastery is about half
an hour walk away, which can be done through a
forest trail, which was recently widened in order to
cope with the ever increasing numbers of visitors, or
along the tarmac road leading to the monastery.
Fresco at Sümela
• Those approaching with their own vehicles can get
as near as 300 meters to Sümela itself, where there is
A spectacular rock-hewn monastery perched dramati- a car-park in front of Hagia Barbara Chapel. There
cally on the narrow ledge of a steep cliff in the forests is an additional fee of 20 TL for cars, paid at the
south of Trabzon. It was built in the fourth century, just entrance of the national park.
before the Roman Empire split into east and west, by two
Athenian priests, Barnabas and Sophronius, who, accord-
ing to legend, found a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary 81.5 Do
in a cave. The monastery’s location in this geopolitically
tumultuous corner of the globe naturally saw times of
• Akçakale Beach (Akçakale Plajı) (E 24 km).
trouble and fell into ruin numerous times throughout its
history, with its most thriving times falling under Byzan-
tine and Ottoman rule. • Hüseyin Avni Aker Stadium (about a 20-30
minute walk west of the main square. If in doubt,
The twentieth century, however, was not kind to the
ask a local “Trabzonspor Stadyumu” and they will
monastery. It was abandoned following the chaos and
point you in the correct direction). Why not watch a
inter-ethnic violence at the end of World War I, and the
match of the local football team, Trabzonspor, the
population transfer of Trabzon’s (formerly Trebizond)
most successful team in Turkey outside of Istanbul.
Greek population back to Greece. Its remote location
If you are in the city on a weekend, you can watch
gave it some sanctuary, but its frescoes still attracted the
the team at the stadium.
occasional casually hurled rock by a bored shepherd. The
beautiful frescoes today suffer from decades of heart-
wrenchingly pointless vandalism by travelers—judging • Hamam. If you're brave, try traditional Turkish
from the various alphabets and names scrawled across bath (Hamam). The men-only Hamam is right next
these impressive religious works of art, it appears that just to Efes Pub; the women-only Hamam is just around
about every culture in the world has taken part in the des- the corner. A really great authentic Turkish expe-
ecration. The buildings themselves have been fairly heav- rience, and the people are very nice and will walk
ily restored in recent decades, as the Turkish government you through everything. 25 TL for a bath (including
has stepped in to protect the monastery and to turn it into a scrubbing and massage) at the women’s Hamam,
a museum. and you should also tip your masseuse.
Getting there:
81.6 Buy
• The simplest way to get to the monastery is by tour,
and you can find a tour in town by just asking any
• Cevahir Outlet shopping mall (near Novotel, in
other traveler there (no tourist visits Trabzon with-
Yomra town).
out seeing Sümela). For instance, Eyce Tours of-
fers round trip to Sumela for about 30 TL (address: • Forum shopping mall (near Atatürk Airport).
Atatürk Alani, at Taksim İşhanı sk. 11. (462)
3267174). Also both Metro and Ulusoy bus compa-
nies run minibuses to the monastery during summer
months from their Ataturk Alani offices.
81.7 Eat
• The monastery lies close to Maçka, about 30 km There are nice local meals really worth a try. Espe-
south of Trabzon, and those preferring to get to the cially, pide and köfte are really famous with their taste in
214 CHAPTER 81. TRABZON
restaurant that also serves beer and wine is extremely

rare. Thankfully, the popular Efes Pub is right off Atatürk
Square, just down the street from the Burger King. They
only serve snacks like fries and peanuts, but are open until
midnight. Ladies, note that the far half of the bar (parti-
tioned) is for men only.
For those longing for real (European-style) coffee, Keyif
Coffee & Tea Store has a huge selection of Tea (list-
ing them by area and even Tea Estate) and first rate Cap-
pachino (3 TL). They are hidden within the shopping
complex Canbakkal İş Merkezi, a few blocks to the west
of Atatürk Alani square.
Hamsi balik
81.9 Sleep
Turkey. Pide is kind of pizza which is made with a spe-
cial bread and cheese. You can also try “kiymali” which The cheapest hotels are down from Atatürk Square
is made with meat and served with butter. towards the port, but they usually function as unofficial
You can find a cheap but good place near city center called brothels. By European standards the area is safe, how-
“Cardak Pide Salonu” ever, and the prostitutes quite discreet. Between those
hotels, Hotel Erzurum was acceptable and frequented
Kuzen is also a good option: no standard kebabs but
by backpackers.
(for example) delicious wrap-like rolls filled with hot
Merkez sausage... It’s in Cevdet Akcay sokak next to the • Hotel Erzurum, İskenderpaşa Mh. Güzelhisar Cd.
modernish shopping mall on the north side of Kahraman 19 (100 mt below the square (Atatürk Alanı), be-
Marash Cad. tween Yuvan and Anil Hotels, and next to Nazar Ho-
Another special taste of Trabzon is Akcaabat koftesi tel), ☎ +90 462 3225427. Nice quiet hotel. Rooms
which is meatballs. Made with meat, garlic and bread it’s come with own bathroom and TV. Friendly staff.
very delicious with ayran(yogurt mixed with water) and No safety problems for solo lady travelers. However,
piyaz (beans,lettuce). There are clean and nice places it should also be noted that this hotel is very basic...
in Akcaabat town such as Nihat Usta, Keyvan, Cemil no hot water and the occasional six-legged visitor.
Usta, Korfez Restaurant. You can have a walk and Also noise from outside was an issue on some nights.
drink tea after dinner in Akcaabat Fisher Port. Still a good option if you are traveling on a budget
though. 25 TL pp (Sept 2011).
Another nice place is Harran Kebap, on Kahramanmaraş
Caddesi, not far from the main square. • Hotel Nur, Iskenderpasa Mah. Cami Sokak (Next
to the tourist office.They speak some English.), ☎ +90
Trabzon has the best bread in the country called Vakfike-
462 3230445, fax: +90 462 3230447. +phone=+90
bir ekmegi. Give it a try, you won't regret it.
462 3230446 sgl for 50 YTL (fall 2010).
Lahmacun (“Laa-mach-june”) is a great thing to try, it’s
like a very thin pizza with mince meat on the top. They Some of the upmarket hotels in Trabzon are Zorlu
are cheap, healthy and taste very nice the only problem Grand Otel and Novotel. Zorlu Grand Otel is in down-
is a sophisticated oven is required to cook them so not town Trabzon, at Maraş Street. Novotel is some distance
all restaurants have them, but if they are possible they out of Trabzon, in Yomra (a town close to Trabzon) but
are well worth getting. You usually order an Ayran (pro- it takes only ten minutes from city centre with a car or
nounced “i-RUN”) with it which is a salt youghurt drink dolmuş (bus) to get there.
that aids digestion.
• Otel Benli, İskenderpaşa Mah. Meydan Cami Sk.
All food in Trabzon is cooked to a high hygienic stan-
No:5, ☎ +90 462 3211750. Basic hotel with clean
dard, and additionally most restaurants give you free hand
rooms, shared bathrooms with warm water, WiFi
wipes to clean your hands before and after eating food.
throughout, and very helpful staff. 50mt from
Hamsi Balik (Anchovies or sprat) is also a good option. Atatürk Alanı (main square). Can organise trans-
port to the Sümela monastery at the going rate of 25
TL per person round trip.+phone=+90 462 3231046
81.8 Drink 40 TL twin, shared bathroom.
• Anil Otel, Güzelhisar Cad 12 (just off Atatürk Alanı
Do not expect to be able to get a beer or a glass of wine square), ☎ +90 462 3267282. Exceptionally help-
with your meal anywhere in the city center. Finding a ful staff, clean and bright rooms, great breakfast, a
81.12. GO NEXT 215
lobby where you can actually sit and relax. Excellent • Kars — good jump point to the nearby ancient ruins
value for a budget hotel. 40 TL/single. of Ani.
• Rize — the heart of Turkey’s tea growing region.
Not a real tourist attraction, but a good base for ex-
81.10 Connect ploring the northeast.
• Torul — a hill town near to Zigana Pass.

81.10.1 Internet
• Ulusoy
• Internet in both hotels and internet cafes (costing 1-2
lira/hour) is both glacially slow and unreliable, with
a tendency to drop connections for high-bandwidth
programs, such as Skype. It’s unclear if the city has
a high-speed internet connection at all.
81.11 Cope
81.11.1 Consulates
• Consulate of Georgia, Pertevpasa sokak 10. EU
citizens don't require a visa for Georgia or can get it
at the border. Thus it is not necessary for them to
visit this consulate.
• Consulate of Iran (İran Konsolosluğu), Taksim

Caddesi, Kızıltoprak Sokak 3 (just south of the cen-
tral square), ☎ +90 462 3267651, fax: +90 462
3267652. Many travellers (especially Europeans)
report of getting a visa easily and quickly (i.e. in
a single day) here. As of Dec 2013, the consulate
will issue visas to nationals of Anglophone coun-
tries (including Great Britain, Ireland, Australia,
New Zealand, Singapore and Canada), but only with
a pre-issued reference number from an approved
travel agent.
• Consulate of Russia, Refik Cesur Caddesi 6 (in an

imposing building made of volcanic rock in the old
Ortahisar district). Although getting a Russian visa
for EU citizens usually require several weeks to pro-
cess, in this embassy a visa can be obtained within a
few hours.
81.12 Go next
• Ayder — a village up in the lush Kaçkar Mountains
• Doğubeyazıt
• Georgia via Batumi
• Giresun (W 175 km) — city standing out with its

lively nightlife; trips to a nearby island with lush veg-
etation can be arranged from here.
• Gümüşhane
Chapter 82
Western Karadeniz
Extending for about 500 km along the Turkish Black Sea • Zonguldak — a bleak industrial city surrounded by
coast, Western Karadeniz (Turkish: Batı Karadeniz) is coal mines
a region of remote and rugged shores backed by lush and
hazy mountains. The main drawcards, though, are the old
towns dotting the region from one end to the other, both
on the coast and inland, and ranging from run-down and
modest to the perfectly renovated and up and ready for
tourism, and the pristine, scenic mountain lakes. • Abant — a mountain lake near the Istanbul–Ankara
motorway with some well-established tourism in-
frastructure, offering hiking and horseback riding
82.1 Cities along its trails
• Ilgaz National Park — wintersport resort sur-

rounded by lush spruce forests and beautiful vistas
• Yedigöller (“Seven lakes”) — seven small lakes

tucked away in a heavily forested national park,
which goes extremely scenic in autumn
82.3 Understand
Except for the UNESCO-listed Ottoman old town of
Safranbolu, Western Karadeniz often goes unexplored
by the travellers, and for most, it is simply a line of
blurry mountain and forest images on the other side of
Autumn view from Yedigöller (“Seven Lakes”) National Park the window when transiting through the motorway be-
tween Istanbul and Ankara. This is quite understandable,
given that those that want to check out a slice of Turkey’s
• Akçakoca — coastal town with a Genoese citadel north usually opt for the better known (and perhaps, more
“exotic”) Eastern Karadeniz, and the beachgoers simply
• Amasra — a beautiful seaside resort town with a prefer the warmer waters (and the sunnier climate) of the
nice beach, pleasant vistas, and great fish restaurants Aegean and the Mediterranean. However, give Western
• Bolu Karadeniz a chance (even if that means a short break on
your long journey across the country), and you are un-
• Boyabat likely to regret it.
• Kastamonu — a riverside city with a pleasant his- Bordered by the Marmara Region to west, Central Anato-
toric old town lia to south, and Central Karadeniz to east, Western Ka-
radeniz largely matches with the ancient region of Pa-
• Safranbolu — a town noted for its preserved white- phlagonia.
washed Ottoman architecture and streetscape. Also
a World Heritage site.
• Sinop — an ancient fortress and port city on the 82.4 Talk
northernmost tip of Anatolia
216
82.12. GO NEXT 217
82.5 Get in
Mountain road near Bolu
It’s fairly easy to get in the westernmost sections of the

region (around Düzce and Bolu) as they lie on the main
motorway between Istanbul and Ankara (O-4/E80), the
biggest Turkish cities. Getting into most other parts of
the coastline involves quitting this motorway at Düzce and
then heading for north to Akçakoca, where the highway
meets the coastal road.
Buses to cities and some towns of the region from big
cities of the country can be found.
Only Zonguldak (and a number of other towns —most
notably Karabük— on the way) in the region has a rail
connection with the rest of the country. But this shouldn't
be taken to mean that it has lots of connections—it’s
served by a single daily train from Ankara.
82.6 Get around
82.7 See
82.7.1 Itineraries
82.8 Do
82.9 Eat
82.10 Drink
82.11 Stay safe
82.12 Go next
Chapter 83
Akçakoca
Akçakoca is a small town in the Western Karadeniz re- 83.4 Do

gion of Turkey.
• Swimming. Kale Plajı (“the castle beach”) just be-
low the Genoese castle was briefly awarded “Blue
83.1 Get in Flag” which guarantees seawater purity in early
2000s. Although having lost that distinction since,
Buses from Istanbul to Zonguldak call at town’s otogar it’s reported to be still clean enough to swim safely,
(bus station). Otogar is about 2 km east of town centre in fact it’s said to be still one of the cleanest beaches
but your bus company provides free shuttle minibuses that and seawater in the vicinity.
will take you to downtown. Bus ride takes about three and
a half hours from Istanbul.
The town is connected to main Turkish highway system
83.5 Buy
by a quite winding road to Düzce, where it joins the mo-
torway O-4/E80 and highway D100, both of which con- 83.6 Eat
nect Istanbul and Ankara, two largest cities of Turkey.
From both Istanbul and Ankara, it takes more or less
around 3 hours to get to Düzce, which is a further half 83.7 Drink
hour away from Akçakoca.
83.8 Sleep
83.2 Get around
83.9 Connect
A public bus line connects downtown (çarşı) to the bus
station (otogar) with a de-tour through the old town. (+90) 380 is town’s telephone code.
83.3 See 83.10 Go next

• Mosque (Camii). The central mosque in down-
town is one of not-many mosques having modern
architecture with an interesting rooftop (quite not a
dome!) and rocket-like minarets.
• Castle (Kale) (2 km west of town centre, opposite di-

rection of otogar). This is one of the series of castles
built by the Genoese (Ceneviz in Turkish) along the
coast of Black Sea.
• Old town. Old town of Akçakoca on a gentle hill is a

well preserved neighbourhood of traditional houses
of wood and firebricks, lining square-shaped blocks
with streets intersecting ninety degrees with each
other.
218
Chapter 84
Amasra
Amasra is in Black Sea Turkey. 84.5 Buy

Amasra is a seaside resort on the Black Sea. It’s popula-
tion is normally 6,000, though this explodes in the sum- Woodwork
mer to around 25,000. Most summer holiday-goers are
from Istanbul or Ankara. The best time to visit may be in
September, after the crowds have left. 84.6 Eat
Fish and salad
84.1 Get in
84.7 Drink
Traditional cold drink in Turkey is “ayran” which diluted
yoghurt with some salt. However beer and wine is also
available.
84.8 Sleep
• Balkaya Pansiyon (315 1434; Iskele Caddesi 35)
has clean though small rooms. 30 YTL for a single.
• Yapmur Pansiyon, Kaleiçı Camiönssok No. 6.

Tel: 0378 315 1603, Cell: 0532 771718. 2 bedroom
View of Amasra Peninsula apartments with a living room and modern kitchen
and bathroom, and has stunning views of the Black
Busses from Safranbolu take about 3 hours, and cost Sea (the higher the floor the better). It easily sleeps
around 10 YTL. If you can't find any buses going directly 4, and may come with a crib. Expect to pay 100
to Amasra, you should get to Bartin, from where there are YTL a day during the summer, though this may fall
regular minibuses covering the rest of the way to Amasra. as low as 30 during the off season. An excellent bar-
gain for groups of people. During the off season,
the owner’s son, Cumhur, may be able to show you
84.2 Get around around the town. The pansiyon is up a small side
street, near the island conencted by a bridge.
84.3 See
84.9 Go next
Amasra Museum which was once selected as the best
small museum in Turkey.
84.4 Do
219
Chapter 85
Bolu
85.5 Buy
85.6 Eat
85.7 Drink
85.8 Sleep
85.9 Connect
Mist in Bolu Province 85.10 Go next

Bolu is a city located in the Western Black Sea region of
Turkey. It is famous for its cooking tradition that pre-
vails since the ottoman Empire when the master chefs
of the Ottoman palaca were entirely selected from cook-
ing artisans of Bolu; more correctly to say: of Mengen
which is a province of Bolu. Although the past of the
city extends to antics, little has remained since the an-
cient civilisation of Bytinia. The name 'Bolu' has derived
from Claudiapolis. Today the main attraction of the city
is the surrounding green landscapes, nearby located ski
resort Kartalkaya and the traditional civil architecture of
provinces like Mudurnu and Goynuk.
85.1 Get in
85.2 Get around
85.3 See
• Yedigöller National Park is 42 km from Bolu and is

named after seven lakes in the park.
85.4 Do
220
Chapter 86
Boyabat
Boyabat is a city in Western Black Sea Region, Turkey. fair starting second Wednesday of October just outside
the town center.
86.1 Understand
86.6 Buy
Boyabat is a small inland town somewhere in the middle
of the Turkish Black Sea coast. An ancient castle dom- Cember (hand woven head scarve), Pıta (printed head
inates the town, as well as the valley. Boyabat is known scarve)
for its rice grown all along the riverbeds in the valley. An-
other product is bricks and tiles produced in factories out-
side town. 86.7 Eat
Sirik Kebabi (whole grilled lamb)
86.2 Get in
Boyabat is located inland from Sinop on the Black Sea 86.8 Drink
coast, just south of Gökırmak River, on the roads con-
necting Kastamonu to Sinop or Kastamonu to Samsun. Tea. Tea houses here and there!
Daily bus service to Istanbul (650 km or 8 hours ride).
86.9 Sleep
86.3 Get around
Local provincial standard hotels.
Very walkable town center. “Eski Çarşı", old downtown,

built in grid plan from after the big fire around 1900’s.
The new thoroughfare passes tangentially to the old town
86.10 Go next
and attracts more business.
86.4 See
Kale (Ancient castle) on a rock which is dramatically cut
in the middle by a small river running also through the
town, Kale Bagi (park behind the castle), underground
passages under the castle.
86.5 Do
Enjoy the market held on Mondays in the old downtown,
visit the market near the bus terminal. Enjoy the yearly
221
Chapter 87
Ilgaz National Park
Ilgaz National Park (Turkish: Ilgaz Milli Parkı) is in driving) with Çankırı (about 45 min driving) and Ankara
Western Karadeniz of Turkey. Ilgaz is a ski resort, perfect (200 km, 2.5 hrs of driving) in the south (see the “get
for day trips from Ankara. in” section of Kastamonu article for more details on driv-
ing in from Ankara). The main entrance to the national
park (easily recognizable by its large wooden sign over
87.1 Understand the road) is right by this highway, near the 1850-metre
mountain pass, which is the highest elevation D765 gets.
Unique in the Turkish highway system, the road surface
The national park is centred around the Ilgaz mountain around the pass is covered by cobblestones rather than
range, which sits right on the geographical and ecologi- the usual asphalt to assist the vehicles in icy conditions—
cal border between the gently rolling Black Sea Region which can endure well into April, by the way.
to north and the windswept hills of Central Anatolia to
south. Its immensely verdant spruce forests are easily dis- Do note that there is also an unremarkable town named
tinguishable no matter which direction you are approach- Ilgaz on the southern foothills of the mountain, a few
ing from, but they are in an especially stark contrast with kilometres off the highway, but it is almost entirely un-
the dusty plains and hills to south—if you were just pass- related to the park apart from being close-by and sharing
ing through, you could swear you saw that solid line which the same name, so don't get confused and head there (as
divides what is called as “the sea of trees” in Turkish elsewhere in Turkey, the road signs showing the road for
(ağaç denizi) above from the eternal steppes below. Ilgaz the mountain and the park should be brown, while
those pointing to Ilgaz the town should be blue).
87.1.1 History
The national park was established in 1976.

87.3 Fees/Permits
87.1.2 Landscape
87.4 Get around
The highest point of the Ilgaz Mountains is Hacettepe, 87.5 See

2,587 m (8,488 ft) above the sea level.
Postcard perfect vistas of deep valleys dressed with emer-

87.1.3 Flora and fauna ald forests are the main sight around here. In winter, the
scenery is almost Nordic—black silhouettes of spruces
87.1.4 Climate towering against snow white ground.
Due to the elevation, the temperature on Ilgaz can be (and

usually is) considerably lower than its surroundings. Snow 87.6 Do
should be expected between October and April.
• Skiing. Teleskis are available.

87.2 Get in
Ilgaz lies on the highway D765, which connects 87.7 Buy
Kastamonu and its airport in the north (about 20 min
222
87.12. GO NEXT 223
87.8 Eat
A restaurant offering Turkish pizza (pide) on the menu
does exist within the park.
87.9 Drink
87.10 Sleep
There are a number of hotels in the park, as well as rustic
resorts offering bungalows.
87.10.1 Lodging
87.10.2 Camping
87.10.3 Backcountry
87.11 Stay safe
87.12 Go next
Chapter 88
Kastamonu
Kastamonu is an inland city near the Black Sea coast, in on this route ranges from 40 to 45 TL.
Turkey.
• From/To Ankara, a bus ride—which crosses the
beautiful Ilgaz Mountains—takes around 4½ hours,
88.1 Understand including a stop about an hour south of Kastamonu,
costing 25 TL pp one-way. Metro Turizm offers
From 13th to 15th century, Kastamonu was the capital of connections on this route, too.
Candaroğlu (also known as Jandarids and Isfendiyarids),
a Turkic principality ruled what is now Western Karad- Direct buses to nearby locations on the Black Sea coast
eniz (or, as known in ancient times, Paphlagonia), which, (e.g., Sinop) and to far away major cities of the country
in 1461, fell to Ottomans, which started as another small (e.g., Izmir) are also available, but for locations south of
Turkic principality and took control of others one by one. Ankara, you are better off taking the buses to Ankara and
Kastamonu continued to be one of the important centres changing to another one for your final destination there to
of Asian Turkey, in addition to being the capital of a large save time.
province extending all the way from Istanbul’s Asian sub- Kastamonu’s otogar lies at the northern outskirts of the
urbs to Sinop during Ottoman period. city. Buses from Istanbul cross the city from one end to
Nowadays, with a population of 91,000 as of 2010, Kas- another before arriving at the otogar, so it’s possible to
tamonu is one of the smaller mid-sized cities of Turkey. get off at the city centre without the need to get to the
otogar first. If you somehow happen to find yourself at the
The city lies elongatedly along the banks of a river. The
otogar, just get to the bus stop on the road bordering the
southern part forms the historic core (although traditional
otogar, from which you can get into an urban bus to the
cityscape is pierced by modern concrete constructions at
city centre for 1.25 TL. They have about 5-min intervals
parts), while the northern half of the city is built com-
and take about 15 minutes to get to the city centre.
pletely within the last decades. All around this linear city
is sparsely-wooded higher mountains. Metro Turizm also has offices on the main street of city
centre from where you can buy outbound tickets and take
the free shuttle buses to either the otogar or another in-
88.2 Get in tercity bus stop south of the city (depending on your di-
rection) when leaving the city.
88.2.1 By bus
88.2.2 By plane
There are several daily buses from Istanbul and Ankara.
The closest airports are in Sinop and Ankara-Esenboga.
• A ride from Istanbul normally takes 8 to 8½ hours
from the main otogar in European Side, and an
hour less than that from the smaller otogar in Asian 88.2.3 By car
Side, including a break around the mid-way. How-
ever, there are some reports that some local (i.e., Kastamonu lies in a somewhat remote location, off the
Kastamonu-based) bus companies take the same major highways traversing the country.
route in 12 hours, as they tend to stop at every
and each town along the way. Metro Turizm and • From Istanbul, the easiest route would be to take
Ulusoy both are reliable nation-wide bus compa- the motorway/toll-road O-4/E80 eastwards until
nies with quite frequent connections between Istan- Gerede exit, then hitting northwards D755 30 km
bul and Kastamonu. The price for a one-way ticket east of Gerede. D755 will take you to Karabük,
224
88.5. DO 225
from where you should take eastwards D030 to Kas- clocktower dating back to Ottoman period on the top of
tamonu, via Araç. The road is quite winding at parts a hill.
of this route (especially as you get closer to Kasta-
monu), although the highway is mostly a segregated,
2 lanes per direction one. 88.5 Do
• From Ankara, the easiest route is taking eastwards Horse riding in Daday, a nearby town.
D140 to Kalecik via Akyurt first. From Kalecik,
hit northwards D765, which will take you to Kasta-
monu via Çankırı and Ilgaz. The road goes through a 88.6 Buy
1800-odd meters high pass through the Ilgaz Moun-
tains before arriving at Kastamonu, and is unique
• Local sweet halva (çekme helvası) can be found at
in Turkish highway system that it wasn't surfaced by
stores all over the city, starting from 1 TL for 100-gr
the usual asphalt concrete but rather by cobblestones
packages or 2 TL for 300-gr packages.
to assist the vehicles in icy conditions.
• There is a large shopping mall at about the midway
between two ends of the city, on the main street, be-
88.3 Get around tween the old town and the newer northern suburbs.
In addition to a number of other stores, it hosts a
large Migros supermarket.
The main street of the city lies along the banks of the
river that bisects the city—northbound traffic following
the lanes along the eastern bank, and the southbound traf-
fic following the lanes along the western bank—which is 88.7 Eat
spanned by numerous pedestrian and vehicular bridges.
There is a wide array of blue public buses following the Local etli ekmek is kind of a large pizza, topped by cheese
whole length of this street, costing 1.25 TL one-way pp. and spicy bacons (pastırma), quite dissimilar to the dish
The neighbourhoods and narrow alleys on either side of known by the same name in the Central Anatolian city of
the river has no public transportation at all; however as the Konya. You'll find numerous eateries all around the city
distances are not very long, walking around is a feasible serving etli ekmek, and along with a soup and some salad,
option. it costs around 7-8 TL.
88.4 See 88.8 Drink
The old town is dotted by historic half-timbered houses 88.9 Sleep

(although a bit weary and in need of a renovation), elegant
19th century stone buildings, numerous mosques dating
There are hotels along the main street of the city. How-
back to Candaroğlu and Ottoman eras, and pleasant an- ever, if you happen to show up during one of the
cient bazaar buildings (not entirely unlike the nearby and
numerous-year-round ceremonies in the nearby military
much better known Safranbolu, although Kastamonu’s garrisons—which are one of the most important local
old town is partially replaced by modern, ugly buildings).
livelihoods as much of local trade evolves around them—
On the top of a rocky hill (about 200 mt higher than the when families from all over the country visit the city to
city itself) to the southwest of the city is the quite well-
see their conscripted sons, be ready to face outrageously
preserved citadel (free admission as of Apr 2011), over-
high rip-off rates or even unable to obtain a room.
looking the old town and a large part of the rest of the
city. The foundations of the citadel date back to Byzan-
tines, however it was the Candaroğlu who gave it its cur-
rent shape. The climb up there through the narrow uphill 88.10 Connect
alleys of the old town is a bit strenuous (and takes around
20 minutes) but the view is worth the effort. The local telephone code is (+90) 366.
On the opposite side across the river—which is spanned
by, in addition to numerous modern bridges, by an ancient
stone bridge, although the both ends of its originally 3- 88.11 Go next
arch span were extensively rebuilt to allow for the passage
of two modern streets—around the southern end of the • İnebolu to north is a pleasant seaside town on the
city is the historic governor’s office backed by a pleasant Black Sea.
226 CHAPTER 88. KASTAMONU
• Safranbolu to west is a World Heritage site and has a

very well preserved old town with whitewashed half-
timbered houses.
• Ilgaz National Park, just half an hour’s drive to

south of Kastamonu, off the highway to Ankara,
is centred around the Ilgaz Mountain, which, with
its dark green spruce forests and snow-white vistas
even in April, offers an almost Nordic landscape in
the middle of Turkey, starkly contrasting with the
windswept hills and treeless steppes of Central Ana-
tolia further to south. Ilgaz also offers wintersport
activities and accommodation (ranging from resort
hotels to wooden bungalows).
Chapter 89
Safranbolu
Safranbolu is in Western Black Sea Region, Turkey, 89.3 See

though located 50 km inland on the mountains.
Safranbolu is famous for its Ottoman houses both in Çarşı
(old town) and the neighbourhood of Bağlar (literally “or-
chards”), and qualifies as a UNESCO World Heritage
sight.
89.1 Get in
Mencilis (Bulak) Cave which is 3 km from city center,
worth to see since it is the 4th biggest cave in Turkey.
Buses from Istanbul take about 6 hours and cost 30-35
TL. Buses from Ankara take around 3 hours and cost 15- Take a look (and a tea?) inside the Cinci Hanı, a massive
20 TL. If you want to go by car from Ankara, it is 220 hotel in the center of the old town. Wandering around the
kms. city you will take in much, but to see inside the houses,
head to one of the historic homes open to the public. Kay-
The nearest train station is in Karabük, 10-15 km away. makamlar Müze Evi is located just above Bastoncu Pan-
There are daily trains from Zonguldak and Ankara to siyon, to the south-east of Cinci Hanı. Keep walking up
Karabuk, which is too slow compared to the buses. the hill, and take in some beautiful views at Hıdırlık Te-
pesi.
89.4 Do
• Incekaya Su Kemeri. An old aqueduct north of
Safranbolu past the village of Incekaya. Ask around
to get there. There are also some organized tours
that go there in the morning.
89.5 Buy
Overlooking the Çarşı (Market) Section of Safranbolu Traditional table clothes and souvenirs from Arasta
Bazaar.
89.6 Eat
89.2 Get around • Safrantat. Try their saffron flavored lokum (Turk-
ish delight) in their main factory in Kıranköy,
Dolmuses regularly drive the 2 km between the old town Safranbolu.
(Çarşı) and the new town center, which is where buses are
likely to let you off / pick you up. Once in the old town, • Adanadan Dürümce, Kaya Erdem Cad. 40 (in the
everything is reachable by foot. Additionally, some in- new part of the town—catch a dolmuş up the hill,
tercity buses might drop you off in the nearby steel down the restaurant is on your right after you get off at
of Karabük. From there you'll have to find a dolmus into the first stop). An excellent restaurant featuring the
Safranbolu. cuisine of southern city of Adana and the southeast
227
228 CHAPTER 89. SAFRANBOLU
on the menu. Kebabs, mushroom (mantar), tasty

freshly prepared ayran, and menengiç coffee (made
of roasted seeds of turpentine tree, Pistachia tere-
binthus) are the main specialities.
89.7 Drink
89.8 Sleep
• Baglar Saray Otel. Has a capacity of 42 rooms and
120 beds. 39 of the rooms have standard quality and
3 of them is suite. Huge bathrooms with full time
hot water and a hair drier, a minibar, a phone that
is open to the abroad and a television. Safranbolu
Baglar Saray Otel shows historical marks and at the
same time and it has an unlimited modern service
understanding.
• Bastoncu Pansiyon & Kafeterya, ☎ +90 370 712-

34-11. One of the cheaper options in Safranbolu.
It is clean and homely, with excellent meals. The
owner speaks Japanese and English, and can help
you plan your onward trip. Call them for a free
pickup from the bus station. 25 TL per person for
dormitory, rooms are 50 TL without bathroom, 90
TL with..
• Safir Konak Safranbolu, Baglarbasi Mahallesi,

Koyici Meydani Arslanlar Cd., No. 2, Baglar, ☎
+90 370 712-70-60. Nine rooms, all of which have
DSL internet connection, cable TV, telephone, and
complimentary breakfast. From € 65.
• Rasitler Bag Evi Safranbolu, Baglarbasi Ma-

hallesi, Degirmenbasi Sokak No. 65, Baglar, ☎ +90
370 725 13 45. A 280 years old Ottoman Mansion
in the orchards with a huge garden and five authen-
tically decorated rooms, all of which have central
heating,Wi-Fi internet connection, bathroom and
hair drier. Lastly renovated in 2012. Price in-
cludes traditional breakfast including a variety of
home made jams, pastries,organic fruits and vegeta-
bles from the Mansion’s garden. Lunch and dinner
can be prepared upon request. Owner speaks En-
glish. They also offer a free shuttle service from the
Safranbolu Bus Terminal. From € 60 for two peo-
ple.
• Gulevi Safranbolu, Hukumet Sokak 46 (in the old

quarter), ☎ +90 370 725-46-45. Check-in: 1PM,
check-out: noon. Housed in three adjacent man-
sions all dating back to 18th century. DBL BB incl.
VAT €90-200.
89.9 Go next
Chapter 90
Sinop
Sinop’s main shopping street

View of Sinop Harbor
Sinop is a city in the Black Sea region of Turkey.

Sinop is a charming Black Sea port town with excellent
90.4 Do
views. You can easily spend a day here wandering around
the town, restaurants and sea front, although you could Between 9 and 23 August near Sinop - a proposed site for
also easily see everything in half a day. a nuclear power plant - the international activist gathering
Ecotopia will be held .
90.1 Get in
90.5 Buy
There is a daily Turkish Airlines morning flight to
Istanbul-Atatürk Airport. Grilled fish at one of the small restaurants.
90.2 Get around 90.6 Eat
Sinop is easily navigable by foot. Parking is likely to be Get up early and visit one of the local bakeries for a
difficult in the summer. fresh loaf of Ekmek (a sourdough bread). Served hot and
sometimes with butter and honey - It is a treat for the taste
buds. A warm cup of tea goes well with this treat.
90.3 See There is a large number of informal open-air cafes along

the harbor serving deliciously fresh fish.
Sinop has impressive fortifications running through much
of the town. The walls stand at 3 meters thick and up
to 30 meters high, with 7 large towers. There is a statue 90.7 Drink
of the Greek philosopher Diogenes (of Sinop) holding a
lamp, supposedly looking for an honest man, and being One of the fortified towers has turned into a cafe/bar, and
followed by a dog, whose honesty he admired. is a great place to get a drink. It also has a good night
229
230 CHAPTER 90. SINOP
scene. The mavi esinti cafe is on the sea front and have
free wifi connection.
90.8 Sleep
• Yilmaz Aile Pansiyonu, Kurtulus Caddesi, close to
the port. A budget place - 20 YTL for a basic double
(summer 2005), shared bathroom, reasonably clean.
In August 2012: the price is 30TL for a basic double

room. Bathroom and WC are smelly. The general clean-
ing is not enought. No wifi.
90.9 Go next
A direct bus leaves Sinop at 8 PM, and arrives in Trabzon
at 6 AM, and continues on to Rize.
Chapter 91
Zonguldak
Zonguldak is a city in western part of Black Sea Turkey. 91.6 Buy

It is located on the shore of Black Sea.
91.7 Eat
91.1 Understand
91.8 Drink
As conveyors and rails everywhere at the entrance of
the downtown mark, this bleak industrial town leaning
against a steep mountainfoot with just a small section 91.9 Sleep
of downtown lying on flat ground is surrounded by coal
mines, which indeed are the reason of town’s existence.
While the city itself may have little to offer to a passing by 91.10 Connect
traveller, it may serve as a convenient hub for surround-
ing resorts and sights. Also, the lush mountains around
the city can easily make you forget the smog and the grey
91.11 Go next
ambience of Zonguldak.
• Akçakoca is a seaside resort one hour bus ride away
from Zonguldak in the west.
91.2 Get in • Safranbolu is a nearby town inland to southeast,
noted for its preserved traditional architecture and
• Buses from Istanbul and Ankara. Both journeys take is in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
about 6 hours.
• Amasra is a historical town on the Black Sea coast
• A daily train from Ankara. to the east.
• The ferries operating between Istanbul and Trabzon
also used to call at Zonguldak harbour, but the cur-
rent situation is not certain.
91.3 Get around

Since most of the city cascades down from a steep moun-
tain side, be ready to climb up and down lots of stairs. The
(flat-ish) land is so scarce that some of the alleys you may
come across at the residential neighbourhoods are actu-
ally rooftops of the houses lined at the street one level
below!
91.4 See
91.5 Do
231
Chapter 92
Central Anatolia
• Kütahya — town famous for its tile/faience tradi-

tion since Ottoman times; hub for visiting Temple
of Zeus in Aizonai
• Nevşehir — capital of Cappadocia
• Sandıklı — town notable for its hot springs
• Sivas — Site of an a Seljuk Madrese complex, as

well as the site of the Congress of Sivas that planned
the Turkish War of Independence.
“Fairy chimneys” in Göreme 92.2 Other destinations
Central Anatolia (Turkish: İç Anadolu) is a region of • Aizanoi (Çavdarhisar) — if you're around, the im-
Turkey. It occupies country’s central plateau, which is mense Temple of Zeus of this ancient city is well
mostly a steppe. worth a visit
• Beypazari — old town with Ottoman architecture on

92.1 Cities the silk road near Ankara.
• Bogazkale — an ancient Hittite city

• Ankara — the second largest city in Turkey, capital
of both the region and the whole country
• Cappadocia — a land of “fairy chimneys” and un-
• Afyonkarahisar (also known as Afyon) — a tradi- derground cities
tional city with an impressive hilltop citadel
• Çatalhöyük — trace the earliest steppes of the civi-
• Aksaray lization, and the idea of a city in this World Heritage
site
• Çankırı
• Divriği — site of elegant, Seljuk-built Great

Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage site 92.3 Understand
• Eskişehir — a fairly liberal riverside university town
with pleasant bridges and sculptures Apart from the obvious steppe landscapes and the moon-
scape of Cappadocia, Central Anatolia offers a wealth of
• Kayseri — large city near Mt. Erciyes, a winter- sights dating back to a diverse array of civilizations.
sports resort
While the locals of the region nowadays are by and
• Kemerhisar — town close to ancient city of Tyana large known for their conservative worldview, pock-
and mineral water springs ets of youth-, and tourism-driven liberalism in Ankara,
Cappadocia, and most particularly in the university town
• Konya — the site of Rumi’s mausoleum, and many of Eskişehir make the contemporary culture of the region
beautiful Seljuk monuments a quite diverse one.
232
92.4. TALK 233
92.3.1 History colonialism.
Çatalhöyük, which existed approximately between 7500

92.3.2 Climate
BC and 5700 BC in the steppes east of Konya, was the
first settlement ever found in the territory of what is
Temperate continental with four distinct seasons, al-
Turkey today, and indeed it was one of the oldest spots
though spring and autumn tend to be short transitional
with a sedentary lifestyle in all of the World.
periods between summer and winter. Winters are often
The first major state that rose to power in Central Ana- snowy and well below the freezing point, and tempera-
tolia was the Kingdom of Hittites, an ancient Indo- tures down to −20°C are not uncommon, but it is the east-
European speaking nation and contemporary (and often ern bits of the region that sees the lower numbers in ther-
at war) with Pharaonic Egypt. Hittites occupied most of mometer. However, given the lack of humidity due to the
Central Anatolia as well as large chunks of neighbouring total absence of maritime influences, it actually feels less
regions, as far south as Syria. cold than coastal cities such as Istanbul unless it is lower
Later in 10th century BC, Phrygians arrived from north- than −10°C. Summers are characterized by sunny and
west, most likely from Thrace in southeast Balkan Penin- hot-but-not-sticky days, cool evenings, and chilly nights.
sula, settling in the western reaches of the region. Phry- Spring tends to be the rainiest season, but with an annual
gians had carved still-impressive open air temples on the rainfall amount totalling to a little more than desert cli-
sides of sacred mountains for their mother goddess Cy- mates, you are unlikely to be met with heavy rainstorms
bele. anywhere in the region.
Invaded consequently by Lydians from west and Per-

sians from east, the region was then run over by the army
of Alexander the Great on the way to India, who cut the 92.4 Talk
famous Gordian Knot in Gordion, ruins of which now
lie 60 km west of Ankara, near Polatlı.
92.5 Get in
Then came the Celts in 278 BC, who once occupied all
across Europe from British Isles to Central Anatolia, and
founded the Kingdom of Galatia in central northern parts
of the region. They were defeated by Romans, who kept
the name and administered the region as the Province of
Galatia.
Central Anatolia, Cappadocia in particular, was one of
the hideouts of often-oppressed early Christians, who
established underground cities and hidden churches to
avoid persecution. Byzantines kept the tradition of turn-
ing natural landscape of Cappadocia into a religious one,
with gorgeously painted churches chipped into naturally-
occurring “fairy chimneys”.
After the Battle of Manzikert of 1071 which took place in
Eastern Anatolia, Turkic tribes started to appear in Cen-
tral Anatolia, which is indeed the region with the longest Lonely rural road in the steppes north of Ankara
history of Turkic settlement in what is now Turkey, possi-
bly due to the similarity of the region to their homeland in
Central Asia in terms of geography and climate. Tribes
• While Ankara's Esenboğa is the main international
united into Sultanate of Rum (Seljuqs), which had its
airport in the region, it’s not on par with most other
heartland in the region.
airports of capital cities of the world with a little
After the demise of the Sultanate, the regional adminis- number of international connections and you usually
tration dissolved into a number of smaller emirates, out have to transfer via one of Istanbul's airports when
of which an outsider one, Ottomans, took over all others approaching from out of country. Konya, Kayseri,
one by one. During most of the period of Ottoman Em- and Sivas also have airports with fairly frequent do-
pire, which centred itself more on Marmara Region and mestic services.
Balkans, the region was seen as a backwater—which may
explain the absence of large scale Ottoman monuments • Ankara is well-served by passenger trains from al-
in the region—integrating with outside markets only in most anywhere in the country with a rail line. Most
the late 19th century with the arrival of Berlin–Baghdad lines have at least one service every day. Eskişehir is
railway, one of the most ambitious projects of the age of served by trains from northwest and west to Ankara,
234 CHAPTER 92. CENTRAL ANATOLIA
while trains from east pass through Sivas and Kay- 92.9 Eat
seri first on their way to Ankara. Trains from south
also pass through Kayseri. Most of the local cuisine depends on wheat and mutton,
two major agricultural products of this arid steppe region.
• Well-paved and wide highways, and usually those Cappadocia, however, features some vegetable-based lo-
in motorway standards, connect the region to all di- cal food thanks to its more fertile soil and the Macedonian
rections. immigrants who were settled in the area in 1920s.
• This is a landlocked region and irregular flow of the

rivers don't let boats to navigate along, though you 92.10 Drink
may try your chance with a canoe, instead.
92.11 Stay safe

92.6 Get around
92.12 Go next
92.7 See
• Most cities in the region, especially Konya, Kayseri,

and Sivas, have a large number of Seljuq-built
monuments, which are known for their majestic
portals and exquisite stone masonry.
• Tuz Gölü (literally Salt Lake) is located in the very

centre of Central Anatolia, between Ankara, Konya,
and Aksaray, and is Turkey’s second largest lake af-
ter Lake Van, although only about 2 (yes, two) me-
ters deep at most. During summer months, it lit-
erally evaporates and leaves behind a flat and com-
pletely white landscape, just like a salt desert. You
can walk around or even harvest salt with your own
hands. It’s also a good spot for birdwatching as it’s
an important stop-over for migratory birds on their
route from Europe to Africa and vice versa during
spring and autumn. Don't forget to bring good shoes
and sunglasses as the already-shiny sun reflects to
eyes double stronger with the extra power it obtains
from saltpan.
• Karapınar Desert — while vast steppe landscapes

that are yellow in summer as far as eye can see
can satisfy most travellers, those yearning for a true
patch of desert should check out Karapınar, an al-
most totally deserted town on the edge of a sand
desert (with dunes and all) some 170 km southeast
of Konya. Dunes at the desert form a dramatical
backdrop for wooded zone, heavily afforested start-
ing from 1970s to avoid further expansion of the
desert.
92.7.1 Itineraries
92.8 Do
Chapter 93
Çankırı
Çankırı is a city in northern Central Anatolia, Turkey. 93.6 Buy
93.7 Eat
93.1 Understand
The quintessential Central Anatolian town with a mainly
93.8 Drink
conservative population, Çankırı, home to about 70,000
people, is one of the smallest provincial capitals in 93.9 Sleep
Turkey. Although it lies close to both the geographical
and the political centre of the country (i.e., Ankara), the
main feel of the place is remoteness. As one writer from 93.10 Connect
Ankara (Nihat Genç, often known for his controversial
views) puts it, Çankırı is possibly what Ankara would +90 376 is the area code for Çankırı. While calling from
look like, had it not been declared the capital of the coun- within Turkey, drop the initial +90 and dial 0 before 376
try and received the large government investments, which instead.
helped it become the modern metropolis that it is today.
Your best bet to arrive in this town is possibly en route
from Ankara to Ilgaz Mountains or to resort towns on 93.11 Go next
Western Black Sea that are popular with people from
Ankara, such as İnebolu, and Amasra. • Whenever you are bored with the views of badlands,
head north and up to the deep green spruce forests of
Ilgaz National Park, less than an hour’s drive away.
93.2 Get in
Çankırı lies about one to one and a half hour drive north
of Ankara, through the windswept Anatolian steppes,
with some remarkable views of eroded hillsides watch-
ing the highway from a distance.
93.3 Get around
93.4 See
93.5 Do
A street art festival is held annually in Çankırı, where
street artists from all over the world are invited to make
the best of their art. Shepard Fairey, and Banksy are
among those who have participated to the date.
235
Chapter 94
Çatalhöyük
Çatalhöyük is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Central 94.1.1 History

Anatolian Turkey.
Inhabited from 7500 B.C. to 5700 B.C by between 5,000-
10,000 people (making it one of the largest settlements of
its era, Çatalhöyük was later abandoned during the Cop-
94.1 Understand per Age.
94.1.2 Landscape
The site is located on two mounds, with an ancient ex-

riverbed that was once a channel of the Çarşamba River
running between them.
94.1.3 Climate
94.2 Get in
94.2.1 By bus
There is a daily bus from Konya, departing right at noon,

which passes by Çatalhöyük and costs 5 TL. On your
way back to Konya, it’s easiest to hitchhike to Çumra
first, which is the nearest major town, and then take a
bus to Konya from there, which costs 5 TL. (Hitchhiking
Çatalhöyük to Çumra is pretty easy, with most drivers
passing by themselves offer a free lift even when you are
not thumbing.) Alternatively, you might ask the museum
guard about the schedule of bus services from the small
village nearby.
The interior of a reconstructed Çatalhöyük house
7500 B.C. to 5700 B.C, meaning “forked mound” in 94.3 Fees/Permits

Turkish, is a Stone Age settlement in Turkey, about an
hour by car from Konya. Because of its age, size, and
good condition, it has been of great importance to ar-
94.4 Get around
chaeologists studying the transition from nomadic tribes
to settlement and “civilization.” Today the ruins together The site should be small enough to walk, however due
with reconstructed living quarters allow tourists to get to the nature of the site (buildings are accessed from the
some idea of what stone-age life might have been like. rooftops) it may not be handicapped-accessible.
236
94.12. GO NEXT 237
94.5 See
Excavations
94.6 Do
94.7 Buy
94.8 Eat
94.9 Drink
94.10 Sleep
94.11 Stay safe
94.12 Go next
Chapter 95
Çavdarhisar
Çavdarhisar is a Western Anatolian village of 2400 peo- itants is half of what it was ten years ago) as the young
ple, set in a kilometre-high plateau surrounded by moun- people decide to take their chances elsewhere in the
tains southwest of Kütahya. While this does not sound cities—don't be surprised if the average age of the pas-
very promising, actually you'll have a very good reason sengers of the minibus that takes you to Çavdarhisar is no
for a visit to this place—the Roman city of Aizanoi, the less than 60. The village seems to be slowly but steadily
ruins of which are scattered around and about the village.
following the steps of Aizanoi, with the old houses crum-
bling, collapsing, returning back to the earth. While you
will find little, if any, entrepreneurship towards the trav-
ellers and will notice a general indifference towards the
95.1 Understand visitors as of now in Çavdarhisar, who knows, maybe
it’s tourism that will once more rejuvenate the place this
Continually inhabited since the 3rd millenium BC, time?
Aizanoi’s name might have been derived from Azan, the
grandson of Zeus and one of the legendary ancestors of
Phrygians, the ancient native people of the region. (The 95.1.1 Climate
myth says Azan was given birth by a nymph in a sacred
cave upriver from Aizanoi, about 2 km away.) Having In winter, stay tuned to the weather forecast for the re-
changed hands between the local kingdoms of Bithynia gion as closely as possible, as the heavy snowfall some-
and Pergamon, Aizanoi was later incorporated into the times leads the main highway connecting to Kütahya and
Roman Empire more than a century before the birth of elsewhere to shut for a couple days or more, which makes
Christ. Prospered with the trade of grains and wool pro- the isolation even more pronounced. It entirely depends
duced abundantly in the plateau, Aizanoi had its golden on the year, though—it’s very much possible that you may
age in the 2nd century CE—all monumental buildings visit on a sunny, but unsurprisingly cold, winter day.
that can be seen today date back to this era.
Aizanoi had already lost much of its former grandeur
and the temple its spiritual significance when a band of 95.2 Get in
the Çavdar tribe of Tatars arrived in the 13th century.
They immediately saw the military potential offered by The most common way of getting to Çavdarhisar is via
the slightly higher ground on which the temple stands, Kütahya. See the “get in” section of that article for ap-
though, and repurposed it as a base, thus providing the proaching there from out of region.
current name of the place—"the citadel of the Çavdar”,
as it translates in Turkish. The road from Kütahya will take you through a dramatic
river canyon, a mountain pass or two, and then into the
For much of the rest of the history, Aizanoi was all but open plateau along its 57-km course.
forgotten except by the locals, until the early 19th century
when pioneer European travellers traversed the region
and noticed the still-standing temple (unlike many other 95.2.1 By bus and minibus
Turkish archaeological sites, the columns and the walls
of the Temple of Zeus had never had to be re-erected, as The minibuses from Kütahya start from the new bus sta-
they never fell down in the first place). Later in the same tion of that city (some outdated guidebooks say that they
century, the site was identified with Aizanoi, and the first depart from a stop separate from the main intercity bus
excavations started in 1926, continuing intermittently up station, but this is no longer the case), also stopping at the
until today. site of the old bus station on Atatürk Blv, and in front of
As with much of the Turkish countryside, Çavdarhisar the train station (cross the street for the minibuses bound
undergoes depopulation (the current number of its inhab- for the correct direction), if that’s your way of getting
238
to Kütahya. Minibuses bound for both Çavdarhisar and highway (D650) signed as to the direction of Uşak and
Gediz are useful, and perhaps so are those bound for the Antalya, and 5 km or so out of the city, you will arrive to
towns of Simav and Emet (ask first to be sure). There is the intersection of D240, signposted as to Çavdarhisar,
a service at least once every hour (there is certainly one Aizanoi, Gediz, and Simav (you can't really get lost, as
for Gediz at 10:45, for example). there is an individual signpost showing the way to Aizanoi
And then there are proper intercity buses connecting var- even on the central Vazo square of Kütahya).
ious points south with Kütahya, also stopping at Çav- Approaching from south, D240 connects to D300—the
darhisar. These are run by the companies Kütahyalılar main highway out of Izmir to interior Anatolia—about
and Buzlu (the websites of these companies don't have 15 km west of Uşak.
English support, and are fairly complicated to use for The width and the surface quality of D240 vary, but are
non-Turkish speakers, so better refer to this list from not very bad, although you will spot patches covering pot-
the website of the Kütahya bus station for the schedule holes here and there.
of all outbound buses—any bus indicating Gediz, as well
as Çavdarhisar itself, as a destination should be okay to There are two gas stations near Çavdarhisar, one of a
take). According to a bus attendant, Kütahyalılar also has local chain just east of the village along the main road,
a through service direct from Eskişehir, but it’s not certain and another, perhaps more reliable, one of better known
when it departs. Petrol Ofisi, out on the main highway to Kütahya.
Minibuses cost 6 TL, while the buses 7 TL. Travel du-
ration isn't really an issue—if the minibuses take a lit-
tle more than an hour to cover the route, buses finish the 95.3 Get around
journey a little less than that, i.e., a gain of 10 minutes at
most. However, buses are more comfortable, offering a The village consists of two separate (with a bit of fields
larger leg-room and a less bumpy ride, and a free drink in between) but nearby parts: the modern half built on
service on the way. Pick up what is more conveniently what resembles a grid plan (perhaps after the 1970 earth-
scheduled. quake that shook the region hard), where you will touch
On both the buses and the minibuses an attendant will down first after getting off the bus/minibus, and, about a
come over to collect the fare (in cash only) once the vehi- kilometre, or a 10-minute walk north of it, the older and
cle eases out of the city. Make sure the driver knows that much more atmospheric part, spanning both sides of the
you'll get off at Çavdarhisar ("chahv-DAHR-hee-sahr", River Kocaçay, or ancient Penkalas, also containing the
though locals also call it shortly as Çavdır, "CHAHV- ruins that you've come here for. An occasional dolmuş
duhr") if you are in a connection that has its terminus may wait at the junction to take you to the old town and
further away from the village, as the newly-built highway the ruins, but be ready to walk. (Minibuses from Kütahya
bypasses Çavdarhisar about 3 km or so away. Get off to Emet reportedly may drop you off right in front of the
at the junction right in the centre of Çavdarhisar, on one temple.)
side of which you will see a road as signposted to Emet, The paths leading to each individual ruin group in and
Tavşanlı, Hisarcık, and Aizanoi–Zeus Tapınağı. around the village are marked by small yellow arrow-
Upon returning to Kütahya, get back to the same junc- signs, providing information in Turkish, English, and
tion (this time to the other side of the road in front of the German. The detailed route in the section below follows
building of Çavdarhisar Belediyesi—the town council), a path suggested by these signs.
where buses and minibuses will stop for hailing passen-
gers. It seems the services are quite frequent, at least there
is a minibus passing at 13:45, and a closely following bus 95.4 See and Do
at about 13:55. Minibus services leaving Çavdarhisar at
15:00, 16:00, and 17:00 are reportedly available.
While the architecture buffs may find the two-storey half
Çavdarhisar also has a bus station of itself (more like an
timbered/adobe—and slowly vanishing—village houses
empty lot, though) on the road to Kütahya, about 250 me-
interesting, and the cultural enthusiasts might want to
tres away from the aforementioned junction. However, check out the old cemetery (on a hill just north of the
there is really no reason to walk there, except perhaps to
temple, off the road leading away from the village) for
ask for the nearest departure if you have already made a
the ancient, unwritten headstones that are slightly rem-
lengthy wait by the road. iniscent of balbals in the Turkic homeland, your num-
ber one reason to be here is to see the ruins of Aizanoi,
which arguably includes the best-preserved Temple of
95.2.2 By car Zeus in the world, and certainly is the best representa-
tive of an ancient Roman city away from the Aegean and
The highway D240 connects the village with the rest of Mediterranean coasts in Turkey.
the world. From Kütahya, take the main southbound All in all the ruins consist of the baths, the market build-
240 CHAPTER 95. ÇAVDARHISAR
ing, and the agora on the south side of the river, and the fully open—if not, look around for the guard!) iron bar
Temple of Zeus, another set of baths (larger from the gate at the front wall of the temple? Walk inside in, keep
other one), and a stadium/theatre complex on the north your vertigo under control (it’s definitely worth it), and
of the river, the sides of which are connected by two still climb down those narrow and steep iron stairs. You are
extant (and, indeed used by the modern traffic) Roman now in a totally different age, in a totally different spir-
stone bridges to each other. itual sphere—you are now in the cold and gloomy sa-
The following paragraphs provide details on each of the cred cell of Cybele, the mother earth goddess of Phry-
sites, and suggest a route to follow between them which gians, whose cult later expanded all over Anatolia and
the wider Roman world, from Mauritania in the west to
ensures that you don't miss any, and you don't have to
walk the same path more than once unless necessary, Afghanistan in the east. With its only light source from
a number of openings through its top, and water drips
drawing a loop through the village instead. The Gover-
norship of Çavdarhisar has a website fully dedicated to falling from all sorts of places on its ceiling, this wide,
stone vaulted temple is the most atmospheric of all in
Aizanoi ; although its English text is rather shabby, it of-
fers a schematic map that might be useful for visualizing Aizanoi. Likely much older than the temple above itself,
the two shrines together represent a whole that is greater
the relative distance and direction from the sites to each
other. than the sum of its parts—a great example of contrast-
ing forces coming into physical shapes. Zeus was a sky
You will need one hour and a half to two hours for a deity, represented by light (the word Zeus itself derived
leisurely walk between the sites and a look around. The from a root word in the ancient Indo-European language
wire mesh gate to the temple is clearly signed as Giriş meaning “the shine”), and the temple dedicated to him
Ücretlidir (“the admission is subject to a fee”—and this flamboyantly rising above the plateau, whereas the ritu-
is the only site that it is not free of charge to sneak into), als to Cybele, associated with mountains, nature, and the
but it seems there is no one around to pay the admission earth in general, were conducted at night, in the hidden
in winter, and even if the gate is staffed, as with other re- underground chamber. Zeus was a cultural import from
mote and decidedly less travelled archaeological sites in the west, while Cybele was a native deity, only later ex-
Turkey, it should not cost any more than 3 or 5 TL tops. ported to the wider world. And needless to say, Zeus was
Alright, so you have walked the paved road into the old a he, and Cybele was a she.
part of the village. You will arrive at your first yellow sign, When you are done in the sanctuary of Cybele, climb
which points to right, saying "Roman bath". Walk into back the stairs to the ground. You are now in full knowl-
that alley, at some distance ahead, the road will split in a edge of what that female bust on the ground, out in front
Y-junction (no sign here), take the left side, and a short of the temple—which is though to be attached to the apex
distance away (though not immediately visible because of once—represents. Walk along the line of artfully deco-
a single-storey building in front blocking the view), you rated Byzantine-age marble gravestones on one side of
will arrive at your first bit of Aizanoi—the baths. Here is the meadow, and get back to the road. Walk left.
a large area scattered by the foundation stones and some
marble pieces; the interesting bit is enclosed in that sleazy The temple marks the northernmost tip of modern set-
cover. It will likely be locked when you arrived, and you tlement, so you will be now walking in the open fields.
may have to look around for the guard to have it opened. At the coming junction, turn right (yellow sign says "Ro-
In case you were unsuccessful in this, have a peek into the man bath", "Stadium", and "Theatre"). The first site on
floor mosaics from the iron-barred openings around the your way is the baths, covering a larger area than the
building. first one you visited, and again a collection of founda-
tion stones, some retaining stone walls, and a marble gate
Return to the paved road, and turn right. Immediately in or two. Keep walking along the pretty path between the
front of you lies one of the two (out of the original four), fields, bordered by low walls made of stones (taken from
the downriver one, of the still-existing stone bridges. the now disappeared buildings of Aizanoi?) and a series
Cross the bridge to the other side; at this point you should of bushy trees. Here is the stadium/theatre complex,
be seeing the top of the temple. Walking ahead will bring said to be the only one in the world that a Roman stadium
you to it. and theatre building shared a common wall. The stone
Photographs don't really do justice in this regard, but seatings of the stadium leans against a natural hillside,
the first feeling upon getting close to the Temple of but the most interesting bit to see here is a wall which de-
Zeus is its immensity. It’s positioning on a slightly picts the names of the champions together with wreaths of
higher hillock in a large, green meadow doesn't really laurel branches—which symbolized victory back then—
help, either. Climb its stairs, walk between its grey, chipped on it, which is just to your right at the entrance
mossy columns, and have a look over the ornamental de- of the site.
tails. While the building itself—having withstood various Walk back the same path that you came in, and you will
earthquakes, wars, migrations, and changes in the spiri- come to a T-junction, past the temple. The signs pointing
tual atmosphere—is impressive and noteworthy, there is the road to right say "Round building", and "Colonnaded
more than what meets the eye. Did you notice that (hope- street". This road will bring you to the other Roman
95.6. SLEEP 241
bridge (frankly, in a worse shape than the other, with its look for a bar, were you?
ugly modern railings and all), and, a few steps further at
the other end of it, to a square with the ancient market
building and the Ionic order columns of the agora (in- 95.6 Sleep
correctly signed as the colonnaded street throughout the
local signs). This was the site of the village mosque until
While daytripping from Kütahya (or even from Eskişe-
1970 when it collapsed in the earthquake—thus leading
hir further away—start early if you intend to also stroll
to discovery of the ruins underneath by chance—and its
around Kütahya a little bit) is perfectly feasible, and in-
solitary reminder still standing is the base of its minaret,
deed popular, if for some reason you need to linger in
now employed as the pole of the introductory sign for the
Çavdarhisar, there is a single, brand new hotel.
market building. A round one with two columns in the
middle, the market building was purportedly the earliest
• Anemon Hotel, Başar Ulusoy Sk 22 (along the
stock exchange in the world, and prices for the commodi-
main road towards Kütahya, next to the bus station,
ties, chipped on a wall in Latin, can still be seen (“a horse
about 300 metres away from the junction), ☎ +90
equals three slaves, and a slave equals two donkeys, which
274 351-22-88, fax: +90 274 351-22-89, e-mail:
themselves are equal to 30,000 denarii”). The columns of
cavdarhisar@anemonhotels.com. You may be at a
the agora on the other edge of the square make for nice
loss as to why this national hotel chain decided to
photograph shots.
invest so much for a waning village that is often vis-
Walk south from here, further away from the bridge, and ited for just a few hours, but this hotel located in a
take the first road between the village houses to left, which newly built elegant stone building is in business since
will bring you to the paved road that connects to the junc- 2010, anyway, offering LCD TVs, and free wi-fi in
tion and the main Kütahya road. its rooms. Laundry service, and carpark are avail-
Oh, and if you haven't filled your quota of seeing carved able. 90 TL/120 TL one/two person(s) half board.
marble stones already, you might glance over those un-
tidily lying about the front yard of the town council
(belediye) building, on the far side of the junction on the 95.7 Cope
main road, while waiting for your returning connection to
Kütahya. If you intend to visit in winter or some other wet season,
make sure you are equipped with sturdy footwear that
you won't care much about, as both the paths between
the sights, as well as the village alleys that link to them
95.5 Buy, Eat, and Drink are muddy and full of shallow ponds.
There are cleanish toilettes (squat type, although signed
There is a branch of Ziraat Bankası along the main road,
as WC), free of charge, complete with liquid soap and
right on the central junction, should you suddenly find
running water in wooden building just opposite the gate
yourself in the need of cash. Its ATM may or may not
of the temple, across the road.
accept your foreign card, though, so it’s best not to push
your luck too far and arrive with a sufficient stack to cover
your needs.
95.8 Connect
You will find absolutely no shops offering the usual
tourist kitsch in Çavdarhisar (and the tiled earthenware
There is a postoffice (PTT) on the main road slightly away
of Kütahya is perhaps a better souvenir to take back home
from the central junction, towards the direction of Uşak
from the region than fridge magnets with a picture of the
(i.e., opposite the direction of Kütahya).
Temple of Zeus on).
The area code for the village is 274, the same with Kü-
On the two opposite corners of the junction, there
tahya.
are small stalls where you can buy bottled water, soft
drinks, or pre-packaged snacks to munch on while look-
ing around the ruins.
95.9 Go next
There is also a line of small eateries along the main road,
on your left towards the direction of Kütahya, but they • Gediz — down the highway D240 towards south-
don't really exist for the tourist trade, but rather for the west, Gediz is the first remarkable town after Çav-
employees who does not have enough time to get to home darhisar. Built on a grid plan after the 1970 earth-
for lunch. Expect typical Turkish “home food”, such as quake, the more interesting part of Gediz lies 8 km
rice and beans (pilav-kurufasulye) or kavurma (chunks of prior to the newer part. Called Eskigediz (“Old
braised red meat), on the menu. Gediz”), in this town, you'll have the colourful two-
You really weren't in a small, remote Anatolian village to storey houses typical of the region—the survivors of
242 CHAPTER 95. ÇAVDARHISAR
the earthquake and the following big fire that swept

half the town, on the lost part of which now stand
a park and a monument to the victims (more than a
thousand).
• Simav — on a road branching off from D240 to-
wards west, Simav offers thermal baths set in its
landscape pierced by steamy geothermal wells, sur-
rounded by mountains with pine forests.
• Uşak — close to the southern terminus of D240 is
the city of Uşak, where you will find the Museum
of Archaeology, the collection of which includes
the famous Karun treasure, as well as connecting
buses to Izmir.
Chapter 96
Afyonkarahisar
Afyonkarahisar, also simply known as Afyon, is a city And a bit of a trivial note for the railway fans: Afyon actu-
in the western part of Central Anatolia. ally does not have a station but two—the smaller and older
British-built Afyon Şehir (a stone neo-classical building)
and the larger, art-deco Afyon Ali Çetinkaya, built in
1939 (and named after the minister of transportation of
96.1 Understand that era), closely resembling the central station building
of Ankara. (And just next to Ali Çetinkaya is the beau-
The city’s name consists of afyon, “opium”, coming from tiful wooden, chalet-type station building, constructed by
the once large fields of poppies around the city, and the Germans in late 19th century as a stop on their am-
karahisar, “black citadel”, referring to the ancient cas- bitious Berlin–Baghdad railway project.) These two sta-
tle on the massive hilltop in the centre of the city. For a tions are separated by just 250 metres from each other
number of decades in 20th century, the city was officially (and there was no railway connection between two for a
known as Afyon, but in 2004, its older (and decidedly long time), and were originally run by two rival compa-
longer) name was restored, although you can still hear it nies. In the early days of Turkish Republic, both com-
called Afyon colloqually. panies were absorbed by the Turkish State Railways, and
a connecting railway between the stations was laid. Un-
til about 1990s trains to west departed from Afyon Şehir
which is now all but practically abandoned, as all passen-
96.2 Get in ger trains stop at Ali Çetinkaya since then.
Afyon lies on a very central point in inner western Turkey,

on the main routes between Ankara, the national capital,
and Izmir, the largest city on the Aegean coast, as well 96.2.3 By car
as between Istanbul, the largest city in the country, and
Antalya, the major city of the Mediterranean coast.
96.3 Get around
96.2.1 By bus 96.4 See

96.2.2 By train
96.5 Do
While the city lies on one of the major junctions of Turk-
ish railway network, track renovations all over the country
and the subsequent phase outs of many passenger services 96.6 Buy
within the last decade mean that the number of places
with a direct train link to Afyon is a bit limited.
Of the major cities, only Eskişehir, and Kütahya to north, 96.7 Eat
and Konya to southeast of Afyon have direct and daily
passenger train service currently (late 2012). However, as
Afyon is not the terminus of none of the major intercity 96.8 Drink
services, many of the trains make their stop in the city
in the very inconvenient hours of the dead of the night.
Check with Turkish State Railways for exact details on 96.9 Sleep
schedule .
243
244 CHAPTER 96. AFYONKARAHISAR
96.10 Connect
Afyon’s area code is (+90) 272.
96.11 Go next
• Konya — the capital city of medieval Seljuks, and
the home of Sufi thinker Rumi lies a few hours to
southeast. While you are on your way there, you
may want to take a break at Akşehir, the hometown,
and the site of the tomb of, Nasrettin Hoca, who
is likely the most prominent individual in Turkish
folklore, with an innumerous quantity of jokes at-
tributed to him.
Chapter 97
Aksaray
Aksaray is a city in Central Anatolia, close to the edge 97.8 Sleep

of what might be called as Greater Cappadocia area (the
core of which lies more than an hour drive to east). • Grand Eras Otel (5*)
• Grand Saatçioğlu Otel (4*)

97.1 Get in • Ağaçlı Otel (4*)
Aksaray is connected to all big cities of the country by

bus. 97.9 Go next
97.2 Get around
97.3 See
• Ihlara Valley
• Salt Lake
• Hasan Dağı
• Sultanhanı
• Ağzıkarahan
• Selime
97.4 Do
97.5 Buy
• Park Site AVM (Mall)
97.6 Eat
There is a Burger King and Pizza Pizza.
97.7 Drink
245
Chapter 98
Ankara
Ankara is the capital city of Turkey and the second

largest city in the country after Istanbul. It is located at
the heart of both Turkey and Central Anatolia. The pop-
ulation is around 4.5 million.
Ankara is the administrative center of Turkey and a huge
university town, so it has a large population of govern-
ment workers and university students. As the national
capital Ankara is home to a large population of foreign
diplomats and embassy staff, so it offers goods and ser-
vices that might be more difficult to find in other Turkish
cities - for example you will have no problem ordering a
cappuccino or a hamburger.
Ankara is a sprawling, modern city which can appear as
little more than a dull, concrete jungle at first glance. As a
result, many tourists tend to use it merely as a transit point
for getting to places like Konya or Cappodocia. However,
Ankara does have a lot to offer for those prepared to look
a bit deeper.
98.1 Understand
Like all Turks, the locals are generally friendly and help-
ful to tourists. Ankara has a large university student pop-
ulation and many young people can communicate in En-
Modern cityscape of Ankara, as viewed from the path leading to
glish. Having said that, it’s still a good idea to have a Anıtkabir
Turkish phrasebook or dictionary on hand.
Apart from the old town in and around the citadel near
Ulus, and unplanned shantytown neighbourhoods here 98.1.1 Orientation
and there built hastily by new immigrants from country-
side in the last five decades, most of Ankara, which was The “downtown” area of this large city is around Kızılay
a provincial town of 20,000 people in the early days of Square (Kızılay Meydanı) which has a fair number of
Republic, is a purpose-built capital due to its strategic lo-
transportation links to almost anywhere in the city. To
cation at the heart of the country, although the history of the north, Kızılay Square is connected by a wide avenue
settlement in the vicinity is millennia old. to Sıhhiye (with a Hittite-style sculpture of a deer) and
While the biggest claim to fame of the town used to be the Ulus Squares, which are second most central parts of the
long-haired local breed of goats named after former name city, located near the train station and the old part of the
of the city (Angora), out of which high quality mohair town around the citadel on the hill.
textiles were produced, today the only place where you To the immediate south of Kızılay lies the upmarket dis-
can spot them in city is the lawns on the side of a clover- tricts of Kavaklıdere, Gaziosmanpaşa and Çankaya. The
leaf interchange on the highway west—in the form of cute city’s most expensive hotels and restaurants are found in
sculptures. this region, as are most of the embassies and consular ser-
246
98.2. GET IN 247
respective European hubs. Iran Air also has two

weekly flights to Tehran. For other carriers flying
into Turkey, a flight into Istanbul is necessary,
followed by an air transfer to Ankara by Turkish
Airlines or Anadolu Jet (a low cost brand of Turkish
Airlines). - EasyJet also offers discount flights to
and from Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW)
and Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg in the summer
months (until October 25) and to and from Istanbul
and London Luton airport all year round for fares
as low as £22. - About the place: The brand-new
airport was opened in 2007. It features many
more gates, a more orderly parking system, and in
general, better traffic flow. The road connecting
Ankara: Kizilay square Ankara’s airport to the ring road has also been fully
renovated.
vices.
98.2.2 By train
98.1.2 Climate
As any other part of the Anatolian highland, the winters

are cold and usually snowy. Temperature is regularly be-
low the freezing point during this season, but it rarely
drops below −15°C. Thanks to the low levels of relative
humidity, the hot and dry summers are more comfortable
than coastal regions of Turkey. Summer nights are cool,
though, so be sure to bring at least a cardigan with you
to wear outdoors. Spring and autumn are the wettest sea-
sons, but with an annual rainfall amount of 415 mm (i.e.,
a semi-arid climate), you are unlikely to get much wet
during your trip to Ankara, anyway.
98.2 Get in YHT Train (High-speed train) at Ankara Central Station
Being in a central location in Turkey, Ankara is also the

98.2.1 By plane centre of the Turkish rail network and can be reached
from many cities.
• Ankara Esenboğa International Airport
(Ankara Esenboğa Havalimanı or Esenboğa Ulus-
lararası Havalimanı), Balıkhisar Mh.,Özal Bulvarı • Ankara Central railway station (Ankara Garı),
(Esenboğa Yolu) (some 28 km northeast - Airport Hipodrum Cd (M Maltepe. M Ulus - north of
buses are operated by HAVAŞ through the city Kızılay Square. -connected to by a wide number of
center reaching Ulus (the historical center of the public buses which stop in front of the station. About
city, close to the museums and baths), and AŞTİ 10 minutes walk from the station, on the northern
(where the intercity buses depart from to almost all corner of Gençlik Park, is a metro station which has
the cities in Turkey). The price is 10 TL. There is services to a number of central locations in the city
also a cheaper public bus line 442 run by Ankara in addition to Kızılay.). The train trip from Istanbul
Municipality (5.25 TL), and it stops on multiple to Ankara takes around 5 hours and 36 minutes and
locations including Ulus, Kızılay, Aşti along its most (but not all) daytime services involve chang-
circular route (i.e., no terminus in the city centre). ing from one of the older express trains from Istan-
Also by taxi around TRY 70 one way, metered. -), bul to Eskişehir onto the new high speed rail link.
☎ 0 312 590 40 00, fax: 0 312 590 40 41, e-mail: Night trains, on the other hand, are direct from Is-
info_esb@tav.aero. -International flights are rather tanbul with no transfers to high speed trains, how-
low in frequency and scope - apart from Turkish ever, these slightly older trains are comfortable and
Airlines (THY), only Lufthansa, Austrian Airlines of Western European standard. Reserve a cabin in
and British Airways offer direct flights to their advance if you prefer sleeping in a bed to sleeping
248 CHAPTER 98. ANKARA
in a seat. Internet connections are available in cer-

tain wagons of the train. Tickets are slightly cheaper
than the bus and the journey is more comfortable.
- Some destinations (Duration, Price,Transfer): Is-
tanbul (5:36; TL 32; Eskisehir (High Speed Rail)),
Eskisehir (1:28; TL 20; Direct (High Speed Rail),
Konya (1:30; TL 25; Direct (High Speed Rail)),
Bursa (4:00; TL 32; Eskisehir), Konya (1:45; TL
22; Direct (High Speed Rail), İzmir (11:47; TL 27;
Direct), Adana (12:24; TL 22; Direct).
EGO card
98.2.3 By bus
98.3.1 By bus
If you are traveling from places other than Istanbul, you
will find buses fast, inexpensive, and modern. Watch out There are two types of public buses in Ankara; those
for the drivers spraying your hands with lemon cologne if run by the Ankara Municipality named Ankara Belediye
you do not like it. Otobüsleri (EGO) and those run by a private corporation
named Ankara Özel Halk Otobüsleri (ÖHO). You can dif-
ferentiate these two types by their colors. EGO-run buses
• Ankara Intercity Terminal (Ankara Şehirlerarası are white and blue while ÖHO-run buses are blue. Both
Terminal İşletmeleri AŞTİ (pronounced ush-tee), types of these public buses use the same bus network and
Beştepeler Mh. (connected to the Kızılay Square- bus stops.
Metro 'AŞTİ' . There are also free of charge shut-
tle buses to Kızılay (and a number of other locations)
run by the AŞTİ administration. They depart from Ankara Municipal Buses
behind the main building.), ☎ +90 0312 207 1000,
fax: +90 0312 207 1010, e-mail: info@asti.com.tr. The Ankara Municipal Buses, named Ankara Belediye
The buses terminate at this bus station (otogar). Otobüsleri (EGO), consists of an extensive and dense bus
Most of the cities in Turkey have direct buses to the network, and is owned and operated by the Ankara Mu-
capital of Turkey, and buses are much faster than nicipality.
trains in Turkey. From Istanbul to Ankara, the bus Payment system for municipal buses is based on multi-
trip takes around 5 hours and one way fare is about use magnetic cards which is also used for the metro; start-
35 TL. You can check prices of the latest bus tickets ing from the smallest available which is the 1-unit card
in otobus. +phone=+90 0312 207 1000 which costs 1.65 TL, 2-unit cards which cost 3.30 TL,
3-unit cards which cost 4.95 TL, 5-unit cards which cost
8.25 TL, 10-unit cards which cost 16.50 TL and 20-unit
cards which cost 33.00 TL . A free transfer with the mag-
98.3 Get around netic cards is possible within a duration of 45 minutes be-
tween the bus lines and metro lines. The magnetic cards
cannot be purchased in buses and have to be purchased
The city has a dense public bus network, a two-line sub- beforehand at kiosks and metro stations.
way called Ankara Metrosu and a single line suburban rail-
Unfortunately, no stops and maps are displayed in the
way called Ankara Banliyö Treni.
buses and bus stops nor announced by voice in the buses.
For tourists, Ankara’s public transit system, particularly However all current bus information is available online
the public bus network, can be difficult to figure out, beat the EGO english website. In addition, apps for smart-
cause maps are rare and all information is in Turkish. Nor phones are available with the same functionality.
is there any access provided for disabled travellers in any
form of public transport. Buses and metros tend to be
very crowded during rush hours, especially on Mondays Ankara Non-Municipal Public Buses
and Fridays.
If you know the city well, public transportation, espe- The Ankara Non-Municipal Public Buses, Ankara Özel
cially the metro, is an ideal, easy, quick and cheap way to Halk Otobüsleri (ÖHO), consists of an extensive and dense
get around particularly for longer distances. For shorter bus network, operated by a private corporation.
distances taxis are an easy, quick and cheap way to get Payment system for non-municipal buses is with cash.
around. The ticket, which is only a one-way ticket, is purchased
in buses at a cost of 2.25 TL. 98.3.3 By Suburban Railway

Unfortunately, no stops and maps are displayed in the
buses and bus stops nor announced by voice in the buses. The Ankara Suburban Railway, named Ankara Banliyö
Treni, consists of a single suburban line running on the
national rail network which is owned and operated by the
Turkish State Railways.
The suburban line, runs between Sincan in the west,
98.3.2 By Metro through the city center, to Kayaş in the east. The line
is 37.0 km long (all of which is surface and elevated rail-
way) and has 26 stations.
Payment for the subway is done by cash at each train
station for a one-way ticket which costs 1.70 TL and a
return ticket which costs 3.00 TL .
98.3.4 By taxi
Taxis are numerous in Ankara and are recognizable by

their yellow color and word Taksi on top of the car. All
licensed taxis have the letter T in their license plates.
The fare shown on the meter reads according to distance
traveled. The ride will start at 2.20 TL, and the rate is
1.90 TL per kilometer. The rates for day and night are
same. Tipping is not done other than rounding the fare to
the next 50 kurus or 1 lira.
Ankara Metro allows for quick access.
Occasionally, some taxi drivers will refuse to start the
meter and try to negotiate a fixed price, especially with
The Ankara Metro, named Ankara Metrosu, consists of tourists. But most taxi drivers will start taximeters at
two metro lines, which are called Ankaray and Ankara all times. You should avoid these cabs and simply take
another one as you will almost certainly end paying too
Metro which is owned and operated by the Ankara much. Many taxi drivers, even though very few of them
Municipality .
speak a foreign language, will understand your requested
The west-east light-rail line named Ankaray and the destination and instructions. Tell them then to put the
north-south heavy-rail Ankara Metro line are both mostly taximeter on. Taxi drivers do normally work with the
underground lines and intersect at Kızılay station. taximeter, so they will not be surprised at all when you
The Ankaray line runs between AŞTİ (Ankara Şehirler- ask them to put it on. Emphasize to the taxi driver that
arası Terminal İşletmesi - Ankara Intercity Bus Terminal) you will pay for the meter price before getting in.
and Dikimevi. The line is 8.7 km long (8.0 underground Always try to stop a taxi that is passing by on the road or
and 0.7 km surface railway) and has 11 stations find a legitimate taxi stop.
The Ankara Metro line, runs between Kızılay, the city If you are not familiar with the city and see that you are
center, to Batıkent in the northwest. The line is 14.7 km a tourist, the taxi driver may drive a detour in order to
long (6.5 km underground, 4.5 km surface, and 3.7 km charge you more. Insist on going to the destination that
elevated railway) and has 12 stations. you want, and have a map to show them your destination,
Payment for the subway is based on multi-use magnetic to avoid a detour.
cards which is also used for the municipal buses; starting Also beware that all taxis are required to have the desig-
from the smallest available which is the 1-unit card which nated license plate with the letter T apart from their yel-
costs 1.65 TL, 2-unit cards which cost 3.30 TL, 3-unit low coloring.
cards which cost 4.95 TL, 5-unit cards which cost 8.25 Be careful on what notes you hand them for payment;
TL, 10-unit cards which cost 16.50 TL and 20-unit cards some taxi drivers have tried to pretend that the 50 lira
which cost 33.00 TL . A free transfer with the magnetic note that was handed was just a 5 lira note. Occasionally
cards is possible within a duration of 45 minutes between taxi drivers may actually also rip notes you give them, and
the bus lines and metro lines. The magnetic cards can be tell you it is no good, in order to make you hand them a
purchased at kiosks and metro stations. 50 lira note. So, make sure the notes are not ripped, and
All stations are announced both on a display and by voice is actually the right one before you hand them over. Do
in the metros. not buy their quick-sell tricks and also do not allow them
to round the price up to the higher denomination. • Ahi Elvan Mosque (Ahi Elvan Camii), Koyun-
pazari Sk. ( : 'Ulus’ NW 1.7 km). was constructed
during the late 14th and early 15th centuries. The
98.4 See finely carved walnut member (pulpic) is of particu-
lar interest.
• Yeni Mosque (Cenab Ahmet Mosque, Ulucanlar

Yeni Cami), Ulucanlar Avenue (Ulucanlar Caddesi)
(Cebeci Tren İstanbul 600m SE, or Dikimevi).
was built by the famous architect Sinan in the 16th
century. The mimber (pulpit) and mihrap (prayer
niche) are of white marble, and the mosque itself is
of Ankara stone, an example of very fine workman-
ship..
Anıtkabir, Kemal Atatürk’s Mausoleum
Kocatepe
98.4.1 Holy Places
• Kocatepe Mosque (Kocatepe Camii), Olgunlar Cd,

Kızılay ( Kizilay N 1km). built between 1967
and 1987 Completed in 1987, this project is built in
a neo-classical Ottoman architecture style, and is an
eclectic building
• Hacı Bayram Mosque (Hacı Bayram Veli Cami),

Sarıbağ Sk (near the Temple of Augustus - Ulus
SW 0.7 km). restored by architect Mimar Sinan in Atakule Tower in Çankaya, Ankara.
the 16th century, with Kütahya tiles being added in
the 18th century.
98.4.2 Museums
• Arslanhane Mosque (Arslanhane (Ahi Şerafeddin)
Camii), Can Sk ( Kurtuluş S 1km). 13th-century • Ankara Ethnography Museum (Etnoğrafya
Müzesi), Türk Ocağı Cad./Talat Paşa Bulv, Ulus (op-
• Sultan Alaeddin Mosque (Sultan Alaeddin Cami),
posite the Opera House Sıhhiye 0.5km). Tu-Su
Altındağ ( : 'Ulus’ W 1 km). It has a carved wal- 08:30-17:00.
nutmimber, the inscription on which records that the
mosque was completed in early AH 574 (which cor- • Museum of Anatolian Civilizations (Anadolu
responds to the summer of 1178 AD) by the Seljuk Medeniyetleri Müzesi), Gözcü Sokak 2 (on the way
Sultan. Ankara’s first mosque was built in former to the citadel from AkköprüUlus 1.0 km W), ☎
Kaleici district. +90 312 3243160, fax: +90 312 3112839, e-mail:
98.4. SEE 251
anmedmuz@ttnet.net.tr. Apr-Oct 8.30-19.00, Nov- 8 Kapısı (ODTÜ Teknokent Kapısı), Dumlupınar

Mar 8.30-17.00. Display of artifacts remained from Bulvarı No:1 (on Middle East Technical University
Asia Minor/Anatolian civilizations. Oldest artifacts campus, on the highway to Eskişehir, 7 km away
in display date back to Paleolithic. This museum from the city center. - Nearest Metro Stn. Aşti
is one of the best in Turkey and it makes Ankara ~3 km), ☎ +90 312 210 2000. M-F 9:30-15:30.
worthwhile to visit. TL15.
• Stamps Museum at Turkish Telecom, Aydin-
• State Art and Sculpture Museum (Resim-Heykel
likevler district, Çağdaş Sk No:57 (From : 'Kültür
Müzesi), Türkocağı Sokak, Altındağ (near the
Merkezi' 2.5 km NE). daily 08:30-17:00.
Ethnography Museum - Sıhhiye). Hosts galleries
with temporary exhibitions as well as a permanent • Mehmet Akif Ersoy Old House & Mu-
display of Turkish art from late 1800s up to today. seum, Hacettepe University Campus, Sıhhiye ( :
Akköprü 0.7 km East), ☎ +90 312 3052144.
• Cer Modern, Altınsoy Cad. No:3 06101 Sıh-
hıye, ( Maltepe or Sıhhiye 0.5 km), e-mail: • Mehmet Akif Ersoy Literature Museum
bilgi@cermodern.org. Tu-Su 10.00-18.00, Closed Library (Mehmet Akif Ersoy Edebiyat Müze
on Mondays. The recently opened (April 2010) Kütüphanesi), Hacettepe Mah. Sarıkadı sok. No:
modern art museum of the city, Cer Modern is 47 Hamamönü, Altındağ ( Kurtuluş 0.4 km S),
housed in the historic power plant building of Turk- ☎ +90 312 3122864, fax: +312 3122864. Tu-Su
ish Railways. Contemporary art. - P: +90 312 10:00-19:00.
3100000 F: +90 312 3101000
• Liberation War Museum (War of Independence
• TCDD Open Air Steam Locomotive Museum Museum, Kurtuluş Savaşı Müzesi), Karşıyaka Mh.,
(TCDD Açık Hava Buharlı Lokomotif Müzesi), Celal
Cumhuriyet Cd No:14/22 ( : Ulus 0.3 km South-
Bayar Blvd, Maltepe ( Maltepe 300m). Tu- Sa west), ☎ +90 312 310 5361. This originally was the
08:30-17:00. An open-air museum. first building which hosted Turkish Republican Par-
• Rahmi M. Koc Museum (Çengelhan Rahmi Koç liament, in which the War of Independence, fought
in 1921-22 was directed from, as evidenced by pho-
Museum), Koyunpazarı Sk 64-76 ( Ulus 1.3 km
tographs and other items in the display. Waxworks
West), ☎ +90 312 309 6800. Similar to Istanbul’s
of former Turkish presidents are also on display.
industrial museum (of which Çengelhan is actually
a part), the technological progress from 1850s on- • Hacettepe University Arts Museum, Sihhiye dis-
wards is on display in this museum housed in an old trict, inside the university’s cultural center.Gevher
Ottoman caravanserai, what was the former Çen- Nesibe Cd? ( : 'Sihhiye'). M-F 10:00-17:00. you
gel Han, an Ottoman era caravanserai (han) which can see over 250 works of many Turkish painters
was completed in 1523, during the early years of and artists from the early ages of the Republic until
the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. - The our times. .
lower floor is reserved for a carpet gallery, agricul-
tural machinery and pharmaceutical exhibits. Var-
ious machines, medicine, everyday life tools and
• Roman Road of Ankara (Cardo Maximus). This
road transport vehicles are exhibited in the ground
is an ancient Roman road
floor. A brasserie is also at the ground floor. The
upper floor hosts sections of rail transport items, • Artifacts of Pious Foundations (Vakif) Mu-
toys, communications, scientific instruments, mar- seum, Ataturk Boulevard in Ulus ( : 'Ulus’).
itime and navigation. There are also sections about There are Turkish carpets from 15th and 16th
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern centuries, historic candle holders and Korans, old
Turkey; Vehbi Koç, Rahmi Koç's father and one of watches, woodworks from 13th century, traditional
the first industrialists of Turkey, and Ankara city tiles, and many other ethnographic objects.
• Ankara Aviation Museum (Türk Hava Kurumu
Müzesi), Etimesgut, Doğanbey Mh. or Fatih Sultan
Mehmet Bulvarı (İstanbul Yolu) (near highway to Is- 98.4.3 Archaeological Remains
tanbul - Subayevleri Tren İstanbul Stn.), ☎ +90 (312)
2248550. W-Su 09:00-16:30. Various aircraft, avi- • Citadel ( : 'Ulus’ 1.3 km West). There were laid
ation items, missiles, and whatnot are in the exhi- by the Galatians on a prominent lava outcrop , and
bition, as well as a number of MiGs from the other the rest was completed by the Romans.
side of Iron Curtain.
• 'Roman Theatre (Antik Roma Tiyatrosu,), Hisar
• METU Science and Technology Museum (Odtu Parkı Cd No:~18/Çankırı Cad. Dışkapı ( Ulus
Bilim Ve Teknoloji Müzesi), ODTÜ Kampüsü A- 1.0 km West), ☎ +90 312 3107280. The remains,
98.4.4 Landmarks
• Anıtkabir, Mareşal Fevzi Çakmak Cd 55-71.
Daily. Completed in 1953 and situated on an im-
posing hill in the Anittepe quarter of the city is the
mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder
of the Republic of Turkey. A museum nearby dis-
plays a large collection of Atatürk memorabilia and
provides an excellent overview of modern Turkey’s
history. Australians and New Zealanders will find it
interesting to hear the story of Gallipoli presented
entirely from the Turkish point of view.
• Atatürk’s Tomb (MAUSOLEUM) and

Museum, Anıt Caddesi Tandoğan, ☎ +90
312 2317975. Tu-Su. There is a museum
housing a superior wax statue of Atatürk; writ-
ings, letters and items belonging to Atatürk,
as well as an exhibition of photographs
recordings of important moments of his life
• Atakule Tower. A 125m high communications and

observation tower in the Çankaya district. The high-
est structure of the city, with a shopping mall located
under the tower. (Note: Atakule shopping mall it-
Column of Julian the Apostate self, where very few shops are left open, will close
in autumn as it will be transformed to a hotel.)
• Victory Monument (Zafer Anıtı), Ulus square..

the stage, and the backstage of the Roman theatre
erected in 1927 at The monument is made of mar-
can be seen outside the castle. The bath,has a frigi-
ble and bronze and features an equestrian statue of
darium (cold room), tepidarium(cool room) and cal-
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk,
darium (hot room). - They were built in the time
of Emperor Caracalla (3rd century A.D.) in honour • Statue of Atatürk, Zafer Square ( Zafer Meydanı),.
of Asclepios, the god of medicine. Today only the A marble and bronze statue was crafted by the
basement and the first floor are remained.- renowned Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica in 1927
and depicts a standing Atatürk.
• Temple of Augustus and Rome (Monumentum • Monument to a Secure, Confident Future, Güven
Ancyranum), Sarıbağ Sk. The remains of a temple Park (near Kızılay Square). Built in 1935 and bears
constructed between 25 BC - 20 BC after the Ro- Atatürk’s advice to his people: “Turk! Be proud,
man conquest of central Anatolia. and created the work hard, and believe in yourself.”
formation of the Roman province of Galatia, with
• Hatti Monument, Sıhhiye Square (Sıhhiye). Built
Ancyra (modern Ankara) as its administrative capi-
in the 1970s, this impressive monument symbolizes
tal. The temple, on the ancient Acropolis of Ancyra,
the Hatti gods and commemorates Anatolia'
was enlarged by the Romans in the 2nd century. In
the 5th century it was converted into a church by the
Byzantines 98.4.5 Landmarks
• Anıtkabir. open daily, museum open Tu-Su. Com-
• Roman Bath (Roma Hamami), Çelik Cd. Exca- pleted in 1953 and situated on an imposing hill in
vated ruins accessible to the public.typical features the Anittepe quarter of the city is the mausoleum of
of a classical Roman bath complex: a frigidarium Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Republic
(cold room), atepidarium (warm room) and a cal- of Turkey. A museum nearby displays a large col-
darium (hot room). The baths were built during the lection of Atatürk memorabilia and provides an ex-
reign of the Roman emperor Caracallain the early cellent overview of modern Turkey’s history. Aus-
3rd century AD to honor Asclepios, the God of tralians and New Zealanders will find it interesting
Medicine. Today, only the basement and first floors to hear the story of Gallipoli presented entirely from
remain. the Turkish point of view.
98.6. BUY 253
• Atakule Tower. A 125m high communications and • Genclik Park (Gençlik Parki), Doğanbey Mh.,
observation tower in the Çankaya district. The high- Ulus Dolmuşları ( Ulus 100 m).
est structure of the city, with a shopping mall located
under the tower. (Note: Atakule shopping mall it- • Goksu Park (Göksu Parki), Etimesgut suburb
self, where very few shops are left open, will close (Etimesgut Train Station 2 km South or nearest Metro
in autumn as it will be transformed to a hotel.) Stn Batikent SE 3 km). Enjoy the scenic Susuz
Lake (Gölu)
98.5 Do • Guvenpark (Güvenpark), Kizilay square ( ,

Kizilay 100 m).
Ankara offers a good selection of cinemas both in Kavak-
• Korea Park (Kore Parkı, Kore Şehitleri Anıtı),
lıdere and Çankaya and several concert halls for classi-
cal music and opera. Many universities promote concerts Hipodrum Street ( Tandoğan 700 m SW). Korean
and spring festivals but these are sometimes open to their War Monument
students only. Folk and traditional music is very alive, • Kugulu Park (Kuğulu Park), Atatürk Boulevard,
from small bars and restaurants to big concert halls where
you can find local stars like Musa Eroğlu. Polonniya Street, Kavaklıdere ( , Kizilay 2 km
North - Near to Egyptian Embassy). Fountains and
Contemporary Sculptures
98.5.1 Parks and Gardens
98.6 Buy
Ankara’s Castle (Kale) has been a trade center for cen-
turies, and its sellers of carpets, leather and antiquities
are slowly moving upwards hoping to attract the tourist
trade. It’s still a delicious place for walking and brows-
ing, and there are family firms where you can buy, for a
price, excellent carpets and kilims. Walking down from
the Castle you can walk through the covered market, an
iron structure reminiscent of places like Les Halles in
Paris, where you can buy very cheap and excellent pro-
duce. Ankara has a number of large shopping malls each
of them offering fashion stores (including Zara, Mango,
Harvey Nichols, Marks and Spencer ets.), technology re-
Fountain in Akif Ersoy Park tailers (like Media Markt, Electro World etc.) markets
(like Carrefoursa, Tesco/Kipa etc.). Many of the new
Depending on your interests, you can find trekking in lo- malls are located on the Eskişehir Yolu, including Ar-
cal parks and in the surroundings, visiting the museums or mada, Cepa, Kentpark and Gordion.
hunting for the Ottoman or Selçuk remains in the ancient
castle. Upscale shopping centers like Armada along the
Eskisehir road also offer cinemas and quality restaurants. 98.6.1 Malls
• Abdi Ipekci Park (Abdi İpekçi Parkı), Sağlık Mh. • Ankamall (Ankamall alışveriş merkezi).
( Sıhhiye 200 m). See here the 'Hands’ statue
• Armada Tower Ankara Shopping Mall (Armada
• Adile Nasit Park (Adile Naşit Park), Kuzgun Alışveriş Merkezi.).
Sokak, Ayrancı.
• Atakule Mall (At Atakule tower).
• Ankara Botanic Park (Botanik Parkı), Çankaya
Street,Cinnah Street, Çankaya Mh. ( , Kizilay). • Karum Shopping center (Karum Alışveriş
Merkezinin), Iran Street (Caddesi).
• Atatürk Forest Farm and ZOO (Atatürk Or-
man Çiftliği ve Hayvanat Bahçesi), Alparslan Türkeş
Caddesi (Çiftlik Cd.) No:150 (Train stop 'Gazi Mh.
Tren İstasyonu' ~one km). This is an expansive 98.7 Eat
recreational farming area, which houses a zoo, sev-
eral small agricultural farms, greenhouses, restau- Ankara is best known with its “döner kebap”. In order to
rants, a dairy farm and a brewery pick a good döner restaurant (there are many) you should
take a look at the döner round. it should be rectangular • “Kitir” and “Random” bars, Tunali (adjacent to
and the cuts must be flat and separated. Kugulu Park). are two other most popular bars
Like many other capitals, Ankara is where you can eat the • Corvus, Bestekar Street. offering Rock Music.
best and the freshest fish of the country all around the year
(not the cheapest, though). Around Sakarya str., there are
various types of fish restaurants, from fast food to stylish There are many bars and places to drink on that street
ones and it can be a good opportunity to also try rakı, which is parallel to Bestekar. The Edge, Twister,
which is known as a companion of fish. But fish restau- Hayyami (wine bar) are nice places. Sakal on Kennedy
rants abound in the city; in Cankaya there are at least two Street is a unique place with electronic, reggae or retro
excellent ones, “Akdeniz Akdeniz” and “Lazoli” featur- (offering different kinds of music). On the same street
ing the first Mediterranean and the second Black Sea cui- Mono is pleasant place to drink. Tunus Street, parallel
sine. “Ege”, located close to Tunali street, is another ex- to Bestekar is another street where you may find many
cellent choice for fish and raki. The restaurant has also a pubs like Retrox, Flat, James Cook and Zodiac. If Per-
variety of wines. If you want to listen good Turkish clas- formance Hall, Manhattan, Overall and Siyah-Beyaz are
sical music while you eat and drink raki, then “Sudem” places where you can drink and dance till 4 am with live
should be seen. It is located on Olgunlar Street. rock music. There normally are rock cover bands and a
huge crowd, especially on Friday and Saturday nights in
Besides many classic iskender kebab restaurants there are these places.
also many restaurant featuring the traditional cuisine of
a specific city, catering to the community of more af- “Sakarya” is full of the cheapest solutions. Among the
fluent immigrants: from the spicy Urfa to the variety of best places in Sakarya, one should note “Net”, which is a
vegetables coming with Adana kebab. Uludag Kebabcisi good choice not only take a glass of beer or raki, but also
on Denizciler Caddesi in Ulus has been around for about to eat. “Buyuk Ekspres” is also a nice old bar of the town.
sixty years and is a top of the line restorant mainly serving Also Eski-Yeni, Pasaj and Telwe are nice bars where you
Iskender kebap. may find rock or alternative live music styles with cheaper
drink prices compared to Tunali, Cankaya region.
Finally, as the national capital, Ankara has a large popu-
lation of diplomats, and hence there are a number of “in- “Park Avenue” -in Konutkent district- is the new street
ternational” restaurants in Kavaklıdere and Cankaya (also for classy bars, cafes and night clubs. You may also find
where the majority of diplomatic missions are located). second branch of Kitir, Random & Crossroads in “Park
Prices tend to be on the steep side. Avenue”. Istanbul’s fashionable night club Sortie has also
opened in this avenue and is a nice place to drink any
kind of drinks and listen to latest club mixes. Narquilla is
• Hacı Arif Bey, Güniz sokak 48/1. Kebaps and
a great place to have your nargile while drinking beer and
South Anatolian cuisine , on , is a well managed and
enjoying nice food. Also, there are meyhanes (tavern)
delicious restaurant for savoring Gaziantep cuisine.
in which fixed menus are served with drinks and classic
A wealth of options are available and prices are not
Turkish music played. There are bars and restaurants also
very high. A person can eat well for around 30-40
in the historic core of Ankara, close to citadel. You def-
TL..
initely have to go and return by taxi though.
Don't expect a lively gay life of Istanbul in Ankara. No-
- Also there are plenty of cheaper restaurant options in
one comes to Ankara for its amazing gay life, however
Kızılay and Maltepe, selling fast food or kebaps, döner,
you can still enjoy your time while you are here. It has
lahmacun. In Cankaya, Tunali, GOP region you may find
only one gay bar-club (Sixties) and this is open only on
various types of Turkish cuisine and luxurious restaurants
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. It gets pretty
where prices go higher.
crowded after 00:00 and plays Turkish and Western pop
music. In addition to that, though it is not a gay bar, Eski-
• Sushico. Japanese, and Thai food. Sushico’s GOP Yeni Bar in Sakarya Caddesi (street) seems to attract a
restaurant especially has a very good garden. gay-lesbian crowd especially in its bottom floor. Kaos
GL and Pembe Hayat, the leading queer organizations in
• Quick China, Park caddesi. Good option for Chi-
Ankara, hold activities throughout the year.
nese, Thai cookings. Quick China’s branch on the
Park Avenue “Park caddesi” is also very good, par-
ticularly for a Sunday brunch.
98.9 Sleep
98.8 Drink 98.9.1 Budget
• Papsi bar, Tunali Street. is a good choice to take a • Deeps Hostel, Çankaya, Ataç−2 Sokak ( , :
cold beer in a friendly atmosphere for years Kizilay). 25 tl to 40 tl.
98.11. COPE 255
• Cheap hotels?, Sanayi Caddesi (just north of Ulus Ankara Police Department has a “tourism police” section
Meydan). Dbl. (en suite) 40-80YTL per night. with staff multilingual in English, German, French, and
Arabic.
98.9.2 Splurge • Tourism Police (Turizm Polisi), Emniyet Turizm

Şube Müdürlüğü, İskitler, ☎ +90 312 384-0811,
• Ankara Palas. An historical hotel completed in
fax: +90 312 342-2227. +phone=+90 312 384-
1927.
0606/6350-6353
• Sheraton Hotel (Kavaklıdere district). the most
visible and glitzy hotel in Ankara.
98.11 Cope
• Hilton (Next corner from the Sheraton).
• Radisson (near the train station. - Metro Ulus). 98.11.1 Embassies
• Swissotel (an obscure back alley in Çankaya).
Ankara is the national capital, and most countries have an
• Ramada, Tunalı Hilmi street (Kavaklıdere). recent embassy (or equivalent consular service). These are use-
entrants, and offer very new-looking rooms ful if you need consular assistance from your own coun-
try, or need to obtain visas to other countries. The em-
• King Hotel (behind the Parliament, near the Amer- bassies are generally located in the suburbs just to the
ican Embassy). south of the city centre, such as Kavaklıdere, Gaziosman-
paşa and Çankaya.
• Hotel Midas, Tunus Caddesi (north of Kavaklid-
ere).
• Austria, Atatürk Bulvarı 189, 06680 Kavaklıdere,
• Hotel Gold, Tunus Caddesi (north of Kavaklidere). ☎ +90 312 405 51 90-92, fax: +90 312 418 94 54,
e-mail: ankara-ob@bmeia.gv.at. Mo–Th 08.15–
• Angora House boutique hotel (Citadel district). is
16.30, Fr 09.00–16.00.
a charming place in an Ottoman era house.
• China, Gölgeli Sokak 34, Gaziosmanpaşa, ☎ +90
• Crowne Plaza Ankara Hotel, Mevlana Bulvarı 312 436-0628, fax: +90 312 446-4248, e-mail:
No: 2, 06330, Akköprü. Located next door to the sgbgs@superonline.com.
30 ha (area) shopping center Ankamall.
• Egypt, Atatürk Bulvarı No. 126, Kavaklıdere, ☎
+90 312 426-1026, fax: +90 312 427-0099, e-mail:
98.10 Stay safe embassy-egypt@yahoo.com. M-F 09:00-16:00.
• Finland, Kader sokak No. 44, Gaziosmanpasa, ☎
Ankara is probably one of the safest big cities you will +90 312 457 4444, fax: +90 312 426 7429, e-mail:
ever visit. Most people, including single female travellers, sanomat.ank@formin.fi. M-Th 8:30-16:30, F 8:30-
would very rarely encounter problems walking along the −15:15.
streets alone at night. Street crime is extremely rare, even
late at night. However, “little crime” does not mean • United Kingdom, Şehit Ersan Caddesi 46/A,
“no crime”, and common sense should still be applied as Çankaya, ☎ +90 312 455 3344, fax: +90 312 455
anywhere in the world. Petty crime such as pickpocketing 3352, e-mail: info.officer@fco.gov.uk. M-F 8:45-
can occur, however, especially in crowded areas. There- 17:00.
fore, one should always take care of their belongings and
keep bags closed.
The biggest danger for travellers is the road traffic, be- 98.12 Go next
cause there is little respect for pedestrians. Every road
should be crossed carefully and very quickly. Even if • Beypazarı (northwest). This is famous with its tra-
pedestrian traffic lights show green, it is absolutely es- ditional houses, mineral water, bazaar, and of course
sential to have a watchful eye. At crosswalks definitely bakery which is called Beypazari Kurusu. It is a
look out before crossing the street. quite a lot for a small Anatolian town which make
them tourism attraction of the area. You must spare
Another danger for pedestrians, are the sidewalks be- a weekend. You will not regret it.
cause they are often in a very poor condition. Because
of the poor or irregular renovation of sidewalks, many of • Gordion, Yassihoyuk, (96 km west. - near Polatlı
them have loose paving stones and holes in the asphalt. off the highway to Eskişehir). This is one of the
The risk of tripping and hurting oneself should not be most important ancient cities in Turkey and is from
underestimated. Ankara in. The city had been home for Hittites,
Phyrigians, Persians, Greeks, and Romans since

3000 B.C. The remnants of the city are displayed in
Gordion Museum and Anatolian Civilizations Mu-
seum in Ulus.
• Kızılcahamam (to north). This is a town with many
thermal springs, surrounded by forests—a welcome
retreat from the arid landscapes around Ankara.
• Boğazkale (to northeast). is the hub for visiting an-

cient Hattuşaş, the capital of Hittites.
• Gavurkale and Kulhoyuk, Haymana town (60 km

south-west of Ankara). rock friezes and Hittite
burial grounds
• Soguksu National Park.

• Ankara is a reasonably convenient place to base
yourself if you want to travel around Anatolia,
Cappadocia or the Black Sea coast and a growing
number of tour operators and related service indus-
tries are catering to tourists. There is accommoda-
tion here at all levels, with prices pegged below those
of Istanbul or the south coast, and the new bus sta-
tion (AŞTİ) is probably the most useful transport hub
in Turkey with services to just about anywhere that’s
feasible (Lebanon is only 16 hours away, if you're
feeling adventurous).
Chapter 99
Eskişehir
Eskişehir, often known nationwide as the “students’ city” as "Phrygian Valley" even today and contains many rem-
due to the large numbers of students enrolling two local nants from Phrygians (some parts of the valley is within
universities making up at least a tenth of its 600,000 res- the borders of Kütahya and Afyonkarahisar provinces).
idents, is a city in the northwestern part of the Central Eskişehir is a haven of liberalism in a largely conserva-
Anatolia. tive region, which stems from the large student popula-
Seldom on the travellers’ itineraries only a decade ago, tion, as well as the already-progressive-minded culture of
Eskişehir is now quickly polishing its historic attractions, refugees from Crimea and Balkans settled in the city in
and investing a lot on city beautification projects in the the late 19th century during the decline of Ottoman Em-
hopes of marketing itself to a wider audience—and now pire, descendants of whom constitute most of the native
with the high speed rail link with Ankara in place, the population, who are well-adapted to the ideals of a west-
regional tourists, at the very least, are quickly respond- ernized nation of the Republic.
ing in consideration of checking out the “miracle in the One of the few cities in Turkey maintaining multiple
steppes”—the "Venice of Anatolia”, as they say, rather
state universities, Eskişehir is home to Anadolu Univer-
hyperbolically. Home of the hippest crowd in a largely sity and Eskişehir Osmangazi University, both amongst
conservative inland Turkey, Eskişehir is great for a laid-
the biggest universities of the country.
back day or two to break your Turkish odyssey, also pro-
viding a convenient base to explore the little visited sur- Despite its name, most of the city is new construction,
rounding region. with the oldest buildings being no more than 50 years old,
with the prominent exception of the neighbourhood of
Odunpazarı. Since 1999, when Yılmaz Büyükerşen, the
99.1 Understand former president of Anadolu University, has been elected
mayor, the city has a somewhat-imitation Central Euro-
pean feel to it with its bridges, parks, statues, and trams.
The Porsuk River bisects the city all along. The other,
non-natural feature that bisects the city is the main
Istanbul–Ankara railway, which lies more or less a few
blocks north of the river.
99.1.1 Orientation
Eskişehir is a city with two distinct yet related centres.

The riverside promenade, Adalar (literally “the islands”,
although this area is technically a part of the mainland,
except for a small river island on which the historic build-
ing of Tepebaşı City Council stands), and the pedestri-
Porsuk River when flowing through Eskişehir anized Doktorlar Caddesi (officially İsmet İnönü Cad-
desi), just north of Adalar, with a tram line in the mid-
The area is inhabited since before the Phrygians founded dle is the centre of youth life in Eskişehir. The natu-
Doryleaum near today’s Eskişehir (pronounced es-KEE- ral extension of Doktorlar Caddesi towards northwest,
sheh-heer), name of which translates to “the old city” in past a bridge over the rail tracks and Espark shopping
Turkish, a fitting name as the city fully embraces modern mall, Üniversite Caddesi, which leads to the Yunusemre
life while still maintaining a sense of tradition and an- Campus of Anadolu University, marks the northwestern
cient values. The area to the south of Eskişehir is known extent of student territory.
257
258 CHAPTER 99. ESKIŞEHIR
Southeast from Adalar is Hamamyolu, another pedestri- several trains heading for either station every day (In fact,
anized street with a large leafy strip in the middle—or any passenger train departing from Haydarpaşa, except
a linear park, you might say. This is the old city cen- the suburban trains and regional expresses which head
tre and where locals and families rather to hang out and for nearby Adapazarı, passes through and stops in Es-
go shopping. At the southeastern end of Hamamyolu is kişehir). Price depends on the speed of trains and ranges
Odunpazarı, the Ottoman district. between roughly TRY10 (the cheapest) and TRY20 (the
Adalar and Hamamyolu meet at Köprübaşı (“the bridge- most expensive). 20% discount for students is possible in
head”), marked by the bridge on which the tram line every train. Unlike many other examples in Turkey, rail
travel between Istanbul and Eskişehir generally takes the
crosses Porsuk.
same or less time than bus travel (it takes between 4 and
6 hours, depending on the train). The train ride from Is-
99.1.2 Climate tanbul is quite scenic, especially when the tracks traverse
the shores of Lake Sapanca and go through the rocky and
Like any other part of the Anatolian highland, the win- verdant valley of Sakarya River.
ters are cold and usually snowy. Temperature is regularly Ankara is connected to the central station of Eskişehir by
below the freezing point during this season, but it rarely a recently started high speed train service (YHT) seven
drops below −15°C. Thanks to the low levels of relative times a day (which takes 1h 20min and costs TRY25), in
humidity, the hot and dry summers are more comfortable addition to a wide number of conventional trains (which
than coastal regions of Turkey. Summer nights are cool, are mostly heading for Istanbul, İzmir, or other cities to
though, so be sure to bring at least a cardigan with you the west of Ankara via Eskişehir).
to wear outdoors. Spring and autumn are the wettest sea-
sons, but with an annual rainfall amount of 415 mm (i.e.,
a semi-arid climate), you are unlikely to get much wet 99.2.3 By car
during your trip to Eskişehir, anyway.
The city is 335 km away from Istanbul, 228 km from
Ankara, and 144 km from Bursa.
99.2 Get in Eskişehir lies on the highway D200/E90, which connects
Bursa, a major city in the northwest, with Ankara, the
national capital. From Istanbul, take D100 or the toll-
99.2.1 By plane road O-4/E80 eastwards to Adapazarı first, and then hit
the southwards D650 there. In Bozüyük, take D200/E90
Turkish Airlines has scheduled flights from Istanbul ev- to east. Most of the route from Istanbul is up to motorway
eryday of the week but Saturdays. On some days, there standards with segregated directions, except some short
are two flights. Ticket prices vary, depending on the seats sections under construction through the valley of Sakarya
sold by the time you make the purchase. River.
99.2.2 By train 99.2.4 By bus

Eskişehir is at the junction of almost all major rail lines Usually about TRY15 per person if you're coming from
in Turkey, so it is possible to arrive from almost any- Ankara, the bus rides to Eskişehir reveal a beautiful view.
where with a railway line in Turkey (except from Eu- From the city of Burdur in the south the price is TRY25,
ropean Turkey until Marmaray, an undersea rail tunnel from Antalya TRY35.
which will connect Europe and Asia under Bosphorus,
is completed) to find a train which has a stop either in
the Central station (official name: Eskişehir station; in 99.2.5 By boat
the city centre) or in Enveriye station (about 2km south
of the city centre). Most trains departing from Istanbul While landlocked Eskişehir is connected to the Black Sea
(all except those heading for southerly cities of Konya through Porsuk/Sakarya River system, it’s not possible to
and Adana to be precise), and all trains departing from get into the city by boat unless you are extremely adven-
Ankara and İzmir stop at Central station, from which turous and obstinate to try to paddle; and even then you
most of city centre is a short stroll away. Enveriye station, have more than a few rapids to pass through.
on the other hand, is linked to city centre by minibuses
(operating until midnight) which drive along the nearby
street. However, most trains with a stop at Enveriye ar- 99.3 Get around
rive after midnight, so your best bet is to take a taxi if you
want to avoid the 30–40 minutes walk to the city centre.The city has a 2-line tram system. Of which you can buy a
From Istanbul’s Asian station (Haydarpaşa), you can find ticket of 1.60 TL per person and per trip and you can ride
99.6. LEARN 259
from bus station to city center. The Odunpazari houses don’t have to drink anything if you don’t want to. Usu-
and glass museum of modern art are at the Atatürk High ally having a lemon soda is recommended, though, as it’s
school stop of Bus station line of tram. its 30 minutes thought to lower the blood pressure back to normal level.
walk to city center. Minibuses and public buses cover the Entrance is about 5 YTL/person, massage costs a further
rest. City also has a small fleet of 19th century-looking 5 or 10 YTL (of course it’s not compulsory to have a mas-
horse-drawn carriages, and a large taxi fleet. At almost sage and pay another fee just because you entered the bath
anywhere on the large streets, you’ll see buttons (looking if you don’t want to), towels are provided for free, sham-
like electric switches) hanged on walls, trees etc. To call poo and soap are provided for 0.50 or 1 YTL each. The
a cab, you need only to push one of those and the nearest
price is not hourly, i.e. you can stay inside as long as
taxi stop will soon send a taxi to where you have pushed it. you like (remember the ‘no-more-than-one-hour-for-the-
But walking is probably the best way of transportation in
first-time’ rule, though).
this largely flat city, it is free of charge and the distances
aren’t that huge. Women and men have separate sections (and enter the
building from separate gates).
99.4 See • Hot springs (kaplıca) also abound in the surround-

ing region.
• Odunpazarı – It may sound a bit odd in a city with a
name which literally means “old city”, but this is the In the last 10 years Eskisehir has changed a lot. Beginning
only place in Eskişehir where the traditional 19th- with the tram lines here are the changes:
century houses haven't been torn down in favor of Eskisehir Sazova park of science,culture and art
newer buildings.
Kentpark(City Park)
• Yazılıkaya – A rock carving left by Phrygians with Love Island
inscriptions on it. It was a site sacred to Cybele,
the mother-goddess of Phrygians, whose cult later
arrived as far as Mauritania and Spain in the west 99.6 Learn
and Afghanistan in the east, and all the way be-
tween these two extremes. Yazılıkaya is about 90 Anadolu University participates in pan-European univer-
km south of Eskişehir, near the village also named sity student exchange programs.
Yazılıkaya (not to be confused with a site also known
as Yazılıkaya in Çorum. Çorum’s Yazılıkaya is a
Hittite site). A much smaller replica of it can be seen
on the square next to the intercity highway, across 99.7 Buy
the main gate of Yunusemre Campus of Anadolu
University. As you would expect from a big city, there are many
ATMs around and credit cards are accepted in most
places.
99.5 Do
• Meerschaum souvenirs – Meerschaum is ex-
Eskişehir is known for its hamams (Turkish bath), al- tracted only in Eskişehir province in the world. They
though there seems to be no particular reason for this are mostly chipped into little statues or high-quality
fame. There are some baths in the city centre, dating back tobacco pipes.
to Ottoman period. Upon entrance you’ll be asked to put
off your shoes and wear the slippers provided. Then you’ll
put off all your clothes and wrap yourself in one of the 99.8 Eat
large towels provided. A locker for clothes is provided.
Have a through shower and wash your hair before enter- Because of the relatively large university student popula-
ing the marble hot tub area. Don’t let soapy water leak tion, the city centre, especially streets leading to or run-
into the communal pool, if you’ll also have a soapy scrub ning parallel with the Porsuk River are teeming with local
next to it. Staying more than one hour in the hot section and American-style fast food restaurants and pizzerias.
is not advised (especially for the first time) as the very hot
air and steam inside can cause the blood pressure to rise Local delicacies include:
considerably. Once you’re done in the hot tub, you’ll be
wrapped in the dry room all over your body and head, and • Çi börek (or sometimes also spelled çiğ börek) –
asked what drink you’d like. Although never that pricey, essentially a Crimean Tatar dish, it reached Eskişe-
the fee of this drink isn’t included in entrance fee, and you hir in the late 19th century when a band of Crimean
260 CHAPTER 99. ESKIŞEHIR
Tatars was settled in the city. It is a kind of pastry 99.11.1 Telephone

with thin dough walls shaped like a half-moon and
filled with finely-minced meat inside. It is cooked in The area code of Eskişehir is 222. Dial +90 222 when
a large pot filled with heated vegetable oil. Crimean calling an Eskişehir number from out of Turkey.
Tatars consider eating it with a fork an insult, and
they don’t provide any in their restaurants (hands
with a paper napkin are used instead). 99.12 Stay safe
99.8.1 Budget 99.13 Cope

99.8.2 Mid-range City’s large university student population makes it a
place quite easy to communicate in English, although
99.8.3 Splurge local older generations may only speak Turkish. Also
you may encounter youngsters with an ability to speak
99.9 Drink less widespread European languages such as German or
French, though this is much less possible compared with
English.
Since it is a usual habit for university students to binge
drink and to pub crawl, there are many bars, pubs, clubs,
and discos scattered around the city. It is usually possible
to attain a live music performance at weekends. 99.14 Go next
• Kütahya — about an hour away to southwest by
• Haller Gençlik Merkezi – Once warehouse of the
several daily buses and trains from Eskişehir, Kü-
city for fresh groceries, this elegant building has
tahya is a city known for its faience tradition. It also
been renovated and now houses beer-, and wine-
serves as a jumping off point to Aizanoi with the
houses. It is located near the central station.
Temple of Zeus, one of the best preserved Roman
sites in the region.
Several pubs in the riverbank of porsuk and the clubs near
train station offers a good night, and also an opportunity
to know local students. Some pubs by genres:
• 645 (near the riverbank, “Adalar”). Offers live hard-

rock and alternative after 11 pm.
• Ares (few blocks away from riverbank). Hosts good

local heavy metal groups.
• Cagdas Bira Evi. Ordinary pub! They have cheap

beer, anyway.
• Glow. A rock-club mixed place. One of a kind, but

it doesn't mean this place is awesome.
99.10 Sleep
99.10.1 Budget
99.10.2 Mid-range
99.10.3 Splurge
99.11 Connect
Tourism information office – Vilayet Sq 1, tel +90 222
230 38 65
Chapter 100
Kütahya
Kütahya is a town in the Central Anatolia region of and, although the local Dumlupınar University is slowly
Turkey. Known for its colored tiles, Kütahya Faience, changing this, any visitor can expect to be welcomed with
the town also serves as a base for the ruins of the Temple some sort of curiosity.
of Zeus in Aizanoi, amongst the best preserved Roman
ruins in the country.
100.1.1 Orientation
The focal point of the city, the usual starting point for
100.1 Understand any direction, is Zafer Meydanı (“Victory Square”), re-
ferred to by most everyone, locals and visitors alike, as
For the better part of the last millenium or so, Kütahya, Vazo (“the Vase”)—not hard to understand, as at the cen-
which has its ancient roots in Kotiaion (“the city of Ko- tre of the large traffic roundabout in the square stands a
tys”, Kotys being a war goddess in Paleo-Balkan mythol- big, tiled vase. (If you need a handy landmark but can't
ogy) was an important city of the surrounding region. immediately locate the relatively low-lying vase, look for
In the 14th and the early 15th centuries, it was the seat the clock tower instead, which rises close to the eastern
of the Germiyanid (Germiyanoğulları), one of the Tur- side of the square.) The quarters of the officialdom, the
kic petty kingdoms that rose to power after Anatolia was fairly non-descript building of the province governership
overrun by the Mongol hordes in the 13th century and the (Valilik), and the kitschy, faux Ottoman-arched build-
central authority of Seljuks disappeared as a result. Of ing of the town council (Belediye) covered with tiles all
the more powerful ones of such principalities, the Ger- over its façade rest on the western and eastern edges of
miyanid land was later annexed into the Ottoman state— the square respectively, and all the main streets converge
which itself started as a neighbouring frontier principality here—Atatürk Bulvarı which leads north (bus company
to north—in 1429. Regardless, Kütahya kept its promi- offices, and tile shops), eventually transforming into the
nence, and for a long time—more than four centuries, to main highway to Eskişehir; Abdurrahman Kara Ağa
be precise—was the capital city of the Ottoman eyalet of Bulvarı (formerly and still inofficially İstasyon Caddesi,
Anatolia, which covered more or less half of what is today “Station Street”) which leads northeast to the train sta-
Asian Turkey. tion; and the pedestrianized Cumhuriyet Caddesi (“Re-
public Street”, a.k.a. Sevgi Yolu, “Love Walk”, a name it
However, the luck of Kütahya ran out with the com- shares with many other pedestrianized streets in western
ing of the age of steam and trains. For laying out their Turkey, presumably after one such street in Izmir), which
new route from Istanbul into Anatolia and beyond, the is the main drag of the city where locals go for shopping
engineers understandably favoured the open steppes in or simply for a stroll, which leads into the old town in the
the north to the mountain fastness that Kütahya resides southwest. The other main roads that lead away from the
on. The location of the following railroad-related indus- square are Adnan Menderes Bulvarı towards west, and
tries to Eskişehir sealed the deal, and assured that Kü- Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bulvarı towards east.
tahya should now take a backseat to its northern neigh-
bour’s regional prominency—as Eskişehir sparkled, Kü-
tahya waned.
Today, with its 215,000 residents, and its modern heavy
100.2 Get in
industry (so much so that for many years Kütahya was
rated as having the worst air quality in the country, al- 100.2.1 By bus
though things seem to get better nowadays), in addition
to its traditional trade of tilemaking, Kütahya could be Kütahya is well connected by bus. Buses leave almost ev-
considered as one of the bigger cities in Turkey. How- ery 45 minutes for Istanbul (six hours) and Bursa (three
ever, there is still something of a rural mentality here, hours). More than a dozen buses depart daily for Ankara
261
262 CHAPTER 100. KÜTAHYA
(five hours) from where easy connections are available to 100.2.3 By car
points in Eastern Turkey. There are several buses daily
to Antalya (eight hours) with connections to points along The highway D650, one of the major north-south high-
the coast. Buses from nearby Eskişehir are very frequent, ways in Turkey, connects the city with D200, a major
cost 10 TL one-way, and take slightly more than an hour west-east highway in the north, directly linking to Eskişe-
(you can expect delays of up to 15 minutes on their sched- hir, and also to Bursa via Bozüyük with another branch.
uled departure, though, especially if the bus does not have North of Bozüyük, D650 is the main highway to Istanbul.
its terminus in either of these cities, but simply making a There is also another road from Bursa, through the moun-
stop on its longer route instead—say, for example, from tains and the town of Tavşanlı, branching off from D200
Ankara to Uşak). at İnegöl, but this would surely take longer to complete
The main bus station of Kütahya (not otogar as else- than the other route mentioned above.
where in Turkey, but çinigar , the “tile station”, named D650 north of the city has separated directions all along
after the most popular local produce that you will come it, and passes through some remarkable rocky canyons
across so often and at so unexpected locations while in reminiscent of the American Southwest, as well as beside
Kütahya) relocated in 2010 to its current, rather oversized the elongated dam lake on the River Porsuk.
building 3 km north of the city centre, on the highway to
Eskişehir. Free servis minibuses, which depart from be-
hind the building (enter from the gates at where the buses 100.2.4 By plane
draw, and exit from the gates right on the opposite side),
take passengers to the city centre, covering the route in Kütahya, as well as the surrounding region, is served by
about 15 minutes. The terminus for the servis minibuses the newly-opened (in 2012) Zafer Havalimanı (“Vic-
of Kütahyalılar (a local bus company which connects with tory Airport”, IATA: KZR), which lies 41 km southeast
Eskişehir, and possibly with many other cities) is an office of the city (the Turkish Air Forces have an airfield right
of them on Atatürk Blv, very close to the Vazo (make note by the city, but it’s not open to civilian traffic). The air-
of this office, as that’s a very convenient location where port receives flights from both airports in Istanbul—from
you can buy your ticket and take the connecting minibus Atatürk by Turkish Airlines , and from Sabiha Gökçen by
to the bus station upon leaving Kütahya). Pegasus —and that’s the full extent of the list of connec-
The site of the old çinigar, a more convenient 800 metres tions with Zafer currently.
north of the Vazo on Atatürk Blv, is now an empty lot Havaş buses connect the airport to Kütahya, departing
(save for its retaining gate covered with tilework), and is 25 minutes after each flight arrives. They stop at the uni-
called eski garaj (“the old depot”), which might be useful versity, and at their office near the Vazo on the way before
for, say, asking directions. terminating at the bus station .
100.3 Get around

While the city has a fleet of private minibuses of vari-
100.2.2 By train ous colours (red, green, and blue), and yellow city buses,
the average traveller won't feel a pressing need to use
As Kütahya is situated in an ideally central location of them, as most of the sights and useful locations are lo-
Turkish rail network, there are daily train connections cated near each other and walking around is easy enough
from Eskişehir, Afyonkarahisar, Ankara, Izmir, Adana, (while the city is surrounded by mountains, it’s positioned
Konya, and a number of other cities, although most con- on a flat ground, so you won't have to climb up and down
nections, except for those from the nearby cities of Es- too much, unless you decide to ascend to the castle).
kişehir and Afyon, have their stops in Kütahya late at
night as the trains are understandably scheduled to arrive
in their terminal stations, that lie rather far away from 100.4 See
Kütahya, in reasonable hours. The direct links to Istanbul
(or, anywhere north of Eskişehir, for that matter) are sev- • Great Mosque (Ulu Cami) (800 metres from the
ered due to the massive rail renovation works in that part Vazo—walk along Cumhuriyet Caddesi, 200 metres
of the country, and will not be back in service until, at past the end of its pedestrianized part, marked by the
least, 2014. dervish statue in the middle of the road). While noth-
The train station (Guess what? Decorated with tiles, ing much fascinating, you could visit here just for
of course!) lies 1,200 metres east/northeast of the city the sake of a visit—or perhaps so you could tick it
centre, at the end of Abdurrahman Kara Ağa Blv, across off from the list of the historic Turkish mosques vis-
the main highway. ited. Unlike what may be guessed by some visitors,
100.5. DO 263
this building was not built by the Germiyanid dy- 100.5 Do

nasty, but rather by the Ottoman sultan Beyazıt the
Thunderbolt, in an interim era when the Germiyanid
Kingdom was taken by the Ottomans. (Tamerlane, 100.6 Buy
after beating Beyazıt, and taking him captive in the
Battle of Ankara in 1402, freed all the new posses-
sions of his rival, and it took almost three decades
that Kütahya was re-incorporated into the Ottoman
State again—and that was only after the last reign of
the Germiyanid dynasty, who had no sons, had vol-
untarily donated his land to the Ottomans after his
death.) Free.
• Museum of Archaeology (Arkeoloji Müzesi) (just

next to the Great Mosque; see above for directions).
This is a small museum housing various findings
from the surrounding region, aged neolithic down to
the Byzantine era, with the most impressive one be-
ing a marble sarcophagus excavated at Aizanoi, with
highly detailed carvings around it. In the surround-
ing walls of the centre room, as well as in the accom-
panying rooms, you'll find various marble Byzantine
gravestones, coins, earthen pots and amphorae (no-
tice those human-like artefacts, which have “eyes”
on them—should have been produced after a cer-
tain stage in spiritual evolution was passed). The
museum building itself was converted from the
Vacidiye Madrasah (Islamic academy), built by the
Germiyan family. 3 TL.
• Hungarian House (Macar Evi) (1,100 metres from Inside a tile shop
the Vazo—further into the old town from the Great
Mosque/Museum of Archaeology, through Gediz Yes, tiles. Kütahya is famous nationwide for its tiles
Caddesi behind the mosque). A renovated 18th- (çini), a distinction it shares with the town of İznik sev-
century mansion in which the Hungarian freedom eral hundred kilometres to north since the 16th century,
leader Lajos Kossuth lived between 1850 and 1851 when the Ottoman sultan Selim the Grim imported the
during his exile (and hence, the Hungarian house). art by resettling a number of tilemakers from Tabriz after
A good excuse to take a look inside a historic Kü- his victory over Persia in the battle of Chaldiran. (It’s no
tahya house. coincidence that this happened after the highly delicate
Chinese pottery became a favourite of dynasty members
• Tile Museum (Çini Müzesi). after the throne was moved to Istanbul in the mid 15th
century.) While the İznik pottery was favoured for its
• Germiyan Street (Germiyan Caddesi) (600 metres
quality in numerous mosques and palaces across Turkey
from the Vazo—walk west along Adnan Menderes
and the Middle East, the faience of Kütahya conquered
Blv; there is also a traffic sign in the Vazo point-
the markets with its quantity—and continue to do so,
ing the correct way). A narrow alley shadowed by
given the earthenware of İznik is now mostly a thing of
tastefully restored, two-, or three-storey Ottoman-
the past.
era mansions, that look somewhat more elegant than
Eskişehir's Odunpazarı district. Check out the row of shops just north of the Vazo, at the
beginning of Atatürk Blv; it seems basically similar stuff
• Castle. Looming high above Kütahya on a rocky hill is on sale, and none deserves an especial mention, so just
to the west of the old town, this Byzantine citadel has pick one. Prices go from 5 TL for a ceramic coffee cup
a modern rotating restaurant added later in. decorated with local and traditional motiffs (though these
are not technically tile, and, as they are hardened in rela-
• Tile Mosque (Çinili Cami) (southeast of the city). tively lower temperatures than real, glassified tiles, tend to
Out of the traditional centre of the city, this mosque be less stronger) to 130 TL for a beautiful mid-sized vase,
built in 1973 emulates the Central Asian architec- coming in different colours and shapes (perfect choice for
ture with its deep blue/turquoise tiles covering all the table in your living room!). Remember to haggle—
of its exterior valls, dome, and minaret. you can shave 10-15% off the bill. If you have your own
264 CHAPTER 100. KÜTAHYA
transportation, you may also want to take a look in the 100.11 Go next
Çiniciler Çarşısı (“Tile Bazaar”) off the highway, be-
tween the city centre and the bus station, and the line of • Aizanoi (Çavdarhisar) — since you are this close,
big stores on both sides of the highway to Eskişehir, 5 sparing at least half a day to pay a visit to the spec-
km or so out of the city, which might offer the same se- tacular Temple of Zeus in this ancient city is defi-
lection for a cheaper rate (though Gürallar—a name that nitely worthwhile
you will see often both in downtown shops and also at the
highway warehouses—is known to be a bit more expen- • Afyonkarahisar — another traditional and conser-
sive than others). vative city in the region, also complete with its
historic houses and hilltop castle, Afyonkarahisar
may be a good break on your journey south to
100.6.1 Banks Antalya or southeast to Konya to taste a bit of
its culinary offers—including heavily spiced bacon
There are numerous banks along Cumhuriyet Caddesi, (sucuk) and ekmek kadayıfı (a sandwich of soft
along with their ATMs. bread-like doughs washed in sweet syrup with cream
inbetween)—if not for anything else
100.7 Eat
As far as local specialities are concerned, there is not
much to recommend, so you are falling back into the usual
Turkish eat-out menu of döners and kebabs.
• At the small eatery near the entrance of Atatürk

Blv, very close to the office of the Kütahyalılar bus
company, ask for tavuk dürüm—a quick, savoury,
and filling bite of chicken döner, rolled inside a tasty
and thick wrap, with a going rate of just 2 TL (add
0.50 TL on the top of that for an accompanying cup
of ayran). The place looks clean (and the food is
prepared right in front of your eyes), and the clien-
tele looks to be consisting of locals, so there should
be no problems considering the hygiene. There
might be other places offering the same dish.
• Germiyan Konağı Salih Gül Kafe ve Restoran,

Pirler Mah. Germiyan Cd. 83, Germiyan Kon-
ağı. Restaurant occupying a beautifully renovated
old Ottoman house along Germiyan St. On Satur-
days, there is a live fasıl (unplugged traditional Ot-
toman music) performance. Prices are affordable.
100.8 Drink
100.9 Sleep
• Tahya Otel, Atatürk Bulvarı 56, ☎ +90 274
2262010. Across from the old bus station, a com-
fortable, clean and modern mid-priced hotel.
100.10 Connect
The area code of Kütahya is 274.
Chapter 101
Kayseri
Kayseri is a city in the Turkish region of Central Anato- • Istanbul, Izmit, Eskişehir (Doğu Express, Güney Ex-
lia. press, Vangölü Express)
• Ankara, Sivas (Doğu Express, Erzurum Express,

Güney Express, Vangölü Express, 4 Eylül Mavi Treni)
101.1 Understand
• Erzincan, Erzurum, Kars (Doğu Express, Erzurum
Kayseri is an old and large city with a strong economy. Express)
It carries lots of monuments from the days of Seljuks
and Ottomans, and is also the home town of the most ac- • Batman, Diyarbakir (Güney Express, 4 Eylül Mavi
complished architect Mimar Sinan. Population has been Treni)
steadily increasing and nowadays is around 950,000 in the
• Tatvan (Lake Van), Muş, Elazig (Vangölü Express)
urban center.
Kayseri was also on the Silk Route and Karatay and • Malatya (Güney Express, Vangölü Express, 4 Eylül
Sultanhanı posts on this route reside in Bünyan town’s Mavi Treni)
borders. Bünyan is also famous for its carpets which
makes Kayseri a popular purchase-stop for tourists vis- • Tehran, once a week
iting Cappadocia.
101.2.3 By car
101.2 Get in Getting to Kayseri from other major cities is quite com-
fortable. The new 2x2-lanes roads make car travel much
101.2.1 By plane safer. Ankara to Kayseri takes 4 hours, Konya to Kayseri
takes 5 hours.
• Kayseri Erkilet Airport (IATA: ASR), Boztepe
Mah.Mustafa Kemal Paşa Blv No:338, Yenima-
halle/Kayseri, ☎ +90 352 337 5494. Taxi to the 101.2.4 By bus
bus station takes 20 minutes, 27 YTL. Taxi for
Cappadocia 120 YTL. There is a good board outside • Bus station (6km north-west of the city center. A
the airport listing taxi prices to various destinations. local bus #140 to the center leaves from a stop across
the road directly to the south of the station. Tickets
can be purchased from the booth immediately beside
Turkish Airlines, AtlasJet and Pegasus Airlines have daily the bus stop for 1.70TL.). The station has an Internet
flights from Istanbul to Kayseri. Sun Express airlines has café (0.50TL for 30 minutes), left-luggage storage,
daily flights from Izmir and from Antalya to Kayseri. restaurants, grocery shops, hairdresser, etc.
Beside the domestic flights there are also direct interna-
tional flights to Düsseldorf, Stuttgart, Vienna by Pegasus, To go to the train station, take bus #140 until the very
Onur and Oger. center of the city (citadel), then take Atatürk boulevard
towards North until the train station (about 1km). Kent
Seyahat is a Kayseri based bus company.
101.2.2 By train
Destinations:
Trains run from the following cities but they are not very
popular as other means of transport are faster. • Göreme: frequent buses, about 15TL
265
266 CHAPTER 101. KAYSERI
101.3 Get around • İskender is a kebap variant, named after its inventor
(Turkish variant of “Alexander”). Its meat is pre-
pared similar to that of döner, but is served in dish,
101.4 See and with a butter sauce on the top. Although others
come quite close, a local restaurant called İskender
• Hunat Hatun Camii is the most famous mosque in is the best place to eat this, and is located on the
the city that dates back to Seljuks. Seljuks have also opposite side of Hunat Hatun Camii.
left a number of schools (medrese), tombs (kumbet),
and hospitals in the city.
101.8 Drink
• Mount Erciyes is the 3rd highest mountain (3916
m) in Turkey and a popular domestic skiing location. Gilaburu juice is a traditional drink from Middle Anato-
Nowadays, foreign tourists have also started to visit lia. Gilaburu (viburnum opulus) is a tiny, red fruit. It has
the location. Erciyes Ski Center is 25 km. from the lots of benefits to human body. You can drink Gilaburu
city center. juice in Elmacıoğlu İskender (one of the biggest restau-
• St. Gregory the Illuminator Armenian Church rant in the city).
(Ermeni Kilisesi Vakfi) (In the city center). The foun-
dation of this Armenian Church was laid in 1191. • Bolulu Hasan Usta, Istasyon Caddesi (On the
Worth getting inside to see the interior - ring the bell left side of the street when going North.). Café
for entry. serving usual tea and Turkish coffee, and many
pastries. Free Wi-Fi, power supply for com-
puters/smartphones, and perfectly clean toilets.
101.5 Do Friendly staff (though non English-speaking).
101.6 Buy 101.9 Sleep

• Handwoven carpets are the major touristic mer-
chandise in Kayseri, but they can be quite expensive
101.9.1 Budget
as some of them are silk.
101.9.2 Mid-range
• Kayseri is famous all throughout Turkey for its Pa-
• Hotel Bent is a centrally located 3-star hotel. A
stirma. This is seasoned beef which has been air
double room is 160 (April 2011) and offers a clean
dried.
room with Wi-Fi, TV, minibar, etc. Single room
33€ by night (July 2011)
101.7 Eat
101.9.3 Splurge
• Kayseri Mantısı is the most famous dish Kayseri is
known for. It’s made from minced meat, wrapped • Hilton Kayseri is so far the only 5-star and interna-
in tiny bits of dough and boiled. It’s served with tional hotel in Kayseri.
a special sauce and yogurt. It’s pretty difficult to
find a restaurant to eat it as locals always eat this at
home and they are prepared much better. However, 101.10 Connect
Kaşıkla has now established a well deserved name
in the city also for locals and if you can't get a local Many cafés offer free Wi-Fi.
to invite you home, is definitely worth trying.
• Pastırma is Kayseri’s another well-known product. 101.11 Stay safe

It’s dried, salted beef covered with çemen, prepared
by a special process. Pastırma is served both as a
spicy starter or used in dishes (e.g. in pastırmalı kuru 101.12 Cope
fasulye) or böreks. Kayseri is the major source of
production in Turkey. If cannot afford the restau-
rants, try buying 100 grams from a large supermar- 101.13 Go next
ket or from old shops in the old shopping district
behind the castle (Kale).
Chapter 102
Kemerhisar
Kemerhisar is a town in Central Anatolia of Turkey,

close to Niğde.
102.1 Understand
102.2 Get in
102.3 Get around
102.4 See
• Tyana, an ancient city near Kemerhisar.
102.5 Do
• Kemerhisar Mineral Water Spring. It has a tem-
preature of 15°C and has sodium bicorbonate, mag-
nesite and salt in its water. It is good for gastric,
renal and intetinal sicknesses. It’s only 3 kilometers
south of the town.
102.6 Buy
102.7 Eat
102.8 Drink
102.9 Sleep
102.10 Connect
102.11 Go next
267
Chapter 103
Konya
of the city—which is actually a man-made hill, erected

during the Seljuk period so noble residents could easily
watch the city below from their palace. Almost nothing
remained of the palace and the hill now serves as the cen-
tral park, which is a quite pleasant and shady one.
103.2 Get in
Mevlana Museum - Mausoleum of Rumi 103.2.1 By plane
Konya is a city in Central Anatolia in Turkey, known as Turkish Airlines , Anadolu Jet and Pegasus Airlines of-
the city of whirling dervishes and for its outstanding Seljuk fer flights from Istanbul to Konya Airport (IATA: KYA),
architecture. located about 18 km north of city, off the highway to
Ankara. In the summer period it’s also possible to fly
from various European countries, such as Netherlands,
Germany, Norway, Denmark. The easiest and cheapest
103.1 Understand way to get to the city centre from the airport is to take the
shuttle buses provided by Havaş, which takes around 30
Konya was once the capital of Sultanate of Rum, known minutes and costs 10 TL pp . On the way to the centre,
in Turkish as Anadolu Selçukluları, a situation which re- Havaş buses also stop at the bus station (otogar), which
sulted in much of the architectural heritage visible today. may be useful to hop on a tram to the hotels in the north-
The poet and Sufi thinker Rumi also settled in the city west of the city, around the university campus and the
during this period. highway to Istanbul.
Despite rapid growth in recent years, and the arrival of
many students from out of town in the Selçuk University
(Selçuk Üniversitesi), founded in 1975, Konya still retains 103.2.2 By train
the air of an Anatolian provincial town. Even though the
influx of tourists from the west has increased considerably
visitors are still left in peace, and do not have to suffer
the hassles they get in Istanbul. On the downside perhaps
is the fact that fewer people speak English (or any other
foreign language), but the natural hospitality of the people
of Konya usually makes up for that. Be careful with taxi
drivers, who sometimes have no scruples about ripping
off visitors to their city.
Konya is also one of the most conservative cities in
Turkey with more women covering their heads with head-
scarves. Dress modestly if you want to fit in with the local
population, although not many people will bat an eyelid
if you choose not to.
The city lies on a totally flat ground, with the sole excep-
tion of a small hill called Alaattin Tepesi in the very centre Old train in front of train station
268
Until recently trains constituted a slower alternative to 30 minutes and should cost less than 2 YTL. Alterna-
travelling by bus or car. However with the new high- tively, Konya’s tram line—which conveniently has a stop
speed trains (Yüksek Hızlı Treni, abbreviated YHT) all at otogar—terminates in a loop around Alaaddin Tepesi:
that have changed, journey time from Ankara have been this also takes about 30 minutes and costs 1 YTL per per-
massively reduced to just 1:40 h, down from almost ten son.
hours (in pure theory, though, as Turkish State Rail- Check for timetables.
ways never offered passenger trains between Ankara and
Konya before, due to the absurdly long de-tours across the
country the rail network formerly took between these two 103.2.4 By car
neighbouring cities)! Although not offering the charm of
travelling while enjoying the landscapes slowly changing Konya is a 3-hour drive from Ankara and 10 hours (660
on the other side of the window, these new trains makes km) from Istanbul. From İzmir you will get in 7 hours in
it much more practical to reach Konya. As of now there Konya. Also it takes 3 and half hour from Antalya by car.
are fours trains every day, however more depatures will
be added in the near future.
From Istanbul, there are still two nightly sleeper ser- 103.2.5 Hitchhiking
vices (via İzmit, Eskişehir-Enveriye station, Kütahya, and
Afyon), the Meram Express departing at 7:40PM from If you intend to head south by hitchhiking, take public
Haydarpaşa station and arriving in Konya just before bus #26 heading east on Mevlana(Karaman Yolu, fare:
9AM the following day. İçanadolu Mavi Treni departs YTL 1.10/person) from the stops in front of the Gov-
later in the evening at 11:50PM and is a bit slower, not ernor’s Office (Valilik/Vilayet) in the city centre, about
arriving until afternoon to make its brief stop-over on its 5–10 minutes walk away from Rumi tomb/Mevlana Mu-
way to Adana (via Karaman). Fares starts at 35 TL for seum (leaving at 6:00, 6:30, 7:10, 7:30, 7:50, 8:30, 9:45,
second class, 77 TL for first class sleepers. 11:00, etc., the bus stop has a posted schedule if you plan
to leave later). #26 takes you to the highway leading to
The Konya railway station is located in the suburb of
south. You can stay on until it arrives at the steppes out
Meram, some distance from the centre; it is easy enough
of city, almost until the middle of nowhere. Don’t get off
to take a taxi from the station to the centre, but surpris-
the bus until it leaves the highway by turning left into a
ingly some of the taxi drivers are not familiar with the
narrower road. If you plan to head toward Antalya, sit on
locations of the main hotels. Alternatively it is about 30–
the right side of the bus and get off when you see the large
40 minutes’ walk to the city centre, given you don't have
sign indicating the junction of highways D330, D715, and
heavy backpacks.
D696, about 15 min or so from the center. Go to the
As all the rail works is not finished yet, expect (tem- D696 on- ramp to hitch to Antalya, a short walk from the
porary) cancellations of many inter-city train services. intersection.
There is usually a replacement bus waiting but there will
be delays. Always check with the Turkish State Railways
. 103.3 Get around
103.2.3 By bus In the city of Konya you can travel with the dolmuş
minibuses, public urban buses (belediye otobüsü), tram or
There are a number of travel agencies on Mevlana Cad- taxi. Most sites of interest, though, with the notable ex-
desi, Konya’s main street, where you can buy bus tickets. ception of the suburb of Meram, are clustered in the city
The destinations they deal with are written outside. centre and are walking distance away from each other.
Konya’s bus station (otogar) has good connections to a

wide range of destinations, including Istanbul (~10 hours,
40 TL.), İzmir (~9 hours, 30 TL.), Ankara (3.15 hours,
103.4 See
20TL), and Cappadocia (~3 hours).
• Mevlana Museum/Mausoleum of Rumi
When you are issued a bus ticket you will be told which (Mevlana Müzesi) (Once downtown around Mevlana
gate at the station your bus will leave from; you need to be Cad., just follow the signs toward Mevlana Muzesi).
vigilant, however, as the buses sometimes park at another 9AM-5PM. This must see tourist destination of
gate close by. Konya, is the tomb of the famous mystic/sufi/thinker
The bus station is several kilometres (7 km) away from Rumi (known shortly as Mevlana in Turkish, or with
Konya’s main sites of interest, most of which are located the full name Mawlana Jalal ad-Din Muhammad
around Alaaddin Tepesi in the city centre. A number of Balkhi-Rumi in English literature), as well as the
minibuses depart from outside the bus station, of which neighboring museum that displays relics of his life
some stop in or near Alaaddin Tepesi: these take about and his time. The items on display in the museum
270 CHAPTER 103. KONYA
nice example of the Seljuk architecture to be seen in

Konya, conveniently located b/w the city center and
the Mevlana Museum. Free.
• Ince Minare Museum (İnce Minare, literally 'thin

minaret'), Alaaddin Meydanı, ☎ +90 332 351 32
04. Tu-Su 8:30AM-12:30PM/1:30PM-5:30PM.
İnce Minare is the remains of a 13th-century
madrasah (school) built by the Anatolian Seljuks.
Located close to the city center near the northern
end of “Alaaddin Tepesi”, this minaret and the sur-
rounding small buildings today serve as a museum
that displays various artefacts from the Seljuk and
Ottoman eras. It is a popular tourist attraction, ow-
City Hall ing mostly to the noteworthy ornamental architec-
ture which has been very well preserved over the
centuries.
• Alaaddin Hill (Alaaddin Tepesi). This is an artifi-

cial hill that was built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaaddin
Keykubat. Today it stands right in the middle of the
city, and serves mostly as a park. Even though the
small hill or the park on it may not be very interest-
ing in themselves, the two places to stop by and see
are 1) the Alaaddin Mosque, and 2)the remmants
of an old palace with partly earthen construction lo-
cated on the north end of the hill - this old structure
is protected from the elements with a concrete um-
brella.
Dervish cemetery
• Meram. This is the district of Konya which
lies somewhat away from the city center, with
range from old manuscripts, hand written copies lighter construction and more greenery. The name
of the Koran, musical instruments used at Rumi’s “Meram” also refers to the popular picnic area lo-
time, as well as numerous art works dating from the cated in the farther corner of the Meram district.
Seljuk era. 3 TL. Near this picnic area there are a few historic build-
ings to see, some of which are the “Tavus Baba
Also interesting for the curious traveller, esp. Türbesi” and the “Ateşbazı Türbesi”.
for those looking for interesting photographic
opportunities or a short walk through an au-
thentic neighborhood, is the parts of the city • Seljuk Palace remains (on the Alaaddin Tepesi
that surrounds the Mevlana Museum. Since Hill). Just one piece of the Seljuk Alaadin palace.
this neighborhood hasn't quite kept up with re- Built by Seljuk Sultan Kilicarslan II, restored by
cent times, it still maintains an authentic feel Seljuk sultan Alaadin Kekubad
from older days with narrow streets and houses
of old architecture, almost with historic signif- • Fuar.
icance.
Located 5-6 city blocks away from the mu- 103.5 Do

seum, one can also find other historic buildings
and mosques dating from the 12th and 13th • Go shopping at Kulesite shopping center. You can
century Seljuks Turks (the most significant one also shop in the small streets of Konya where you
of these if the "İplikçi Camii”). can find a lot of clothes and presents for a low price.
• Go chill at Alaattin Tepesi.
• Iplikçi Mosque (İplikçi Camii). This old mosque
dating from the 13th century was restored about 50 • Have a cup of coffee at Meram (Aydincavus), with
years ago and is still open for prayer service. It is a a sight of Konya from above.
103.6. BUY 271
103.6 Buy
• Trinkets related to Rumi (and whirling dervishes).
• Traditional Mevlana-candy (white with a mint

taste).
103.6.1 Malls
• Kulesite, Kule Cad. 8, Selçuklu, ☎ +90 332
234 32 72, fax: +90 332 234 32 78, e-mail:
info@kulesite.com. Modern shopping mall.
• Kipa (approx. 2 km to Sille Kavsagi, opposite of the

Dedeman Hotel). A big mall including cinemas.
• M1 Tepe, Dç. Dr. Halil Ürün Cad.. Modern shop-

ping mall.
103.7 Eat
Traditional local cuisine mainly depends on wheat/bread
Seljuk Palace remains and mutton - the major agricultural products of Central
Anatolian steppe on which Konya is situated.
• Go to Fuar (the funfair). Local delicacies include:
• Etliekmek — some sort of long and thin pizza (with

• Visit Kapu Mosque and Aziziye Mosque each with
meat or cheese) which can possibly exceed 1 mt in
different styles of minarets (towers).
length! Available at a lot of restaurants in Konya.
• take a walk at Zafer Street. • Gülbahçesi Restaurant (at the backside of

Mevlana Museum), ☎ +90 332 353 07 68, e-mail:
• Sema (Whirling dervish ceremony), Mevlana bilgi@gulbahcesikonyamutfagi.com. Traditional
Cultural Centre (around 20 minutes walk from Turkish/Central Anatolian cuisine served in tradi-
the Mevlana Museum, down the same road, away tionally decorated rooms. A nice view of Mevlana
from the centre. The building is on the right side Museum and its garden.
— a big, modern white building with a pyramide
roof). Highly recommended! A free sema (whirling • Adanali Köfteci Osman (near the train station).
dervish ceremony) is held at the Mevlana Cultural “Adana"-style kebab, grilled meat. Not expensive.
Centre every Saturday at 8PM, as of Oct 2011, tak-
ing one and a half hours. You don't need to ar-
• Asya Restaurant. Traditional cuisine.
range tickets in advance, but you might want to ask
at the Tourist Information centre right behind the
Mevlana Museum in case there have been changes. • Kösk Mutfagi, Piri Esat Cad. (at the end of
The hall is very big so there will probably be free Mengüc Cad., approx. 500 mt from Mevlana
seats but it is recommended to arrive a bit earlier to Museum), ☎ +90 332 352 85 47, e-mail:
allow time for luggage screening and a cup of tea. A info@koskkonyamutfagi.com. Traditional cui-
lecturer from the local university gives an OK lec- sine. Located in a renovated historical mansion.
ture about Mevlana in English at 7PM just before No alcohol served. Has a carpark in front. Not
the ceremony. The ceremony begins with a long inexpensive.
troduction in Turkish before the actual music and
ceremony start. People say this is the closest you • Restaurant Mahmut Keten, Israsyon-Feritpasa
can get to a real sema. No flash photography or ap- Caddesi Mahmuruiye Mah. Keten Apt (right next
plauding during the ceremony (so as not to disturb to the train station), ☎ +90 0332 322 22 03. The
the dervishes). Free. place is not used to tourist, the menu is in Turkish
272 CHAPTER 103. KONYA
only and the staff not fluent in English. But they are buffet breakfast, ideal location. The old building is
extremely helpful and friendly. They have tasty sal- very basic, a bit smelly, no heating, horrible bath-
ads and meats. Try their thinly cut lamb in butter rooms. The new building is fine. Reception is very
sauce. No alcohol. YTL 10 for main. friendly. 70 TL/double room, 90 TL/triple room in
new building (private bathroom), 20 TL/person in
• Mithat Tirit (Very close to Aziziye Mosque. Also old building (Oct 2011).
around Mevlana Museum). One of the delicious and
• Hotel Ulusan (behind the central postoffice (PTT),
famous restaurants of Konya. It’s famous for with
near Mevlana Cad.), ☎ +90 332 351 50 04, e-mail:
the special kebap Tirit.
ulusanhotel@hotmail.com. A reliable budget option
located in city center. 70 TL per double room, how-
• Fast food — Burger King, McDonald’s and some ever this is bargainable down to much cheaper.
other American-style fast-food restaurants, as well
as ever omnipresent döner, are also available around • Hotel Çatal Aile Pension, Mevlana Cad. Naci
the city. Fikret Sk. 14/A (very close to the Mevlana
Müzesi/mausoleum/museum), ☎ +90 332 351 49 81,
fax: +90 332 351 49 81. Dirty rooms (with a huge
103.8 Drink population of ants!), smells bad, but reception is
nice. May want to avoid this place. Asking price
of 35 TL for a single room with attached bathroom,
65 TL for double room with breakfast.
103.9.2 Mid-range
• Hotel Balikcilar (just across the street from
Mevlana Museum), ☎ +90 332 350-94-70, fax: +90
332 351-32-59, e-mail: balikcilar@balikcilar.com.
A 3 and a half star hotel. Nothing special about it
except that it is literally across the street from the
Mevlana Museum. Rooms with balcony, safebox
wireless internet connection, satellite TV, air-con,
en-suite bathrooms.
Central park at Alaaddin Tepesi • Nil Otel, Mevlana Cad. (close to Alaaddin Tepesi;
behind İplikçi Mosque), ☎ +90 332 350-24-25, e-
mail: bilgi@otelnil.com. Clean rooms with wireless
• The open-air café at Alaaddin Tepesi is good for a internet, bathroom, satellite TV, air-con. About 50
relief and some shade while watching the city during TL pp, including breakfast.
a summer day.
• Mevlevi sofrası is one of the best place that have pa- 103.9.3 Splurge
naronic view of Mevlana museum and gulbahcesi.
You can have a drink with traditional desserts. • Konya Rixos Hotel (5*)
• Konya Ozkaymak Hotel (4*)

103.9 Sleep • Konya Dedeman Hotel (5*)
• Konya Hilton Garden Inn (4*) (next to Mevlana

103.9.1 Budget Culture Centre, 500m. from Mevlana Museum)
• Otel Mevlana, Just off Mevlana Cad., Istanbul Cad.
Cengaver Sk. No: 2 (Take minibus from bus station
to Mevlana. You will see signs pointing the way to the 103.10 Go next
museum as you get closer to the Mevlana Muzesi (Mu-
seum) down an alley. Across from large, gray Hotel • Çatalhöyük — about an hour’s drive away from
Bera Mevlana. If you reach the museum, just get off Konya, the importance of this prehistoric archeolog-
and walk back 100 m or so the way the bus came ical site lies in the fact of being one of the earliest
from.), ☎ +90 332 352-00-29. Check-out: 12 noon. and well preserved human settlement sites discov-
A budget option in Konya. Wireless, air-con, free ered.
103.10. GO NEXT 273
• Akşehir — a pretty little town in the northwest of

Konya province, which was home of The Hoca, a
Sufi sage famous for his folk wit. The city holds a
Hoca festival every year from July 5–10.
• Tuz Gölü (literally Salt Lake) — about an hour

away on the road north to Ankara, is Turkey’s sec-
ond largest lake after Lake Van, although only about
2 (yes, two) meters deep at most. During summer
months, it literally evaporates and leaves behind a
flat and completely white landscape, just like a salt
desert. It’s also a good spot for birdwatching as it’s
an important stop-over for migratory birds on their
route from Europe to Africa and vice versa during
spring and autumn.
• Cappadocia — about three hours to east, is the

most logical next stop on your itinerary around Cen-
tral Anatolia.
• Silifke — about 250 km to south, can be a good

point of entry into the Mediterranean Turkey from
Konya, as the town is located at about the midway
of two extremes of Turkish Mediterranean coast.
Chapter 104
Sandıklı
Sandıklı is a town in the western reaches of Central Ana- west, with the not-so-big central square inbetween these
tolia. two parts. Walking from highway to the square takes
about 20–25 minutes.
104.1 Get in
104.3 See
104.1.1 By bus
• Hisar Kalesi (the Castle) (very close to the town cen-
tre (çarşı)). The castle hosts a cafe that is open till
104.1.2 By train
midnight during summers.
Sandıklı has a train station just across the highway from
the town, on the exact opposite of the wide street which
links the highway with the central square slightly uphill. 104.4 Do
In front of the station building is a roundabout with traffic
lights, providing easy access to the other side of the road • Hüdai Kaplıcaları. Is a hot spring run by the town
for pedestrians. council offering mud baths and various other treat-
ments.
However, this is all trivia now, as there is currently no pas-
senger trains servicing Sandıklı since the suspension of
Pamukkale Express, which used to provide a convenient
and inexpensive connection on its route between Istanbul 104.5 Buy
and Denizli, in 2008. No further announcements have
been made by the Turkish State Railways as to when, or There are a number of banks along the edges of town
even if, this train could be expected back in service. square, with ATMs available on their walls facing the
square.
104.1.3 By car
104.6 Eat
Sandıklı lies right on the highway D650, which is for the
most part upgraded to motorway standards, and connect-
ing Istanbul with the major resort city of Antalya on the 104.7 Drink
Mediterranean via Afyon to the north of Sandıklı, and
Burdur to the south.
104.8 Sleep
104.1.4 By thumb
104.9 Connect
Getting a lift from Burdur in the south is not very hard.
Sandıklı lies within the area code (+90) 272.
104.2 Get around

104.10 Go next
Sandıklı consists of the twisting alleys of the older uphill
part of the town, and the adjacent newer part along the • Akdağ National Park (Akdağ Milli Parkı)
wide avenue leading to the highway skirting the town to
274
Chapter 105
Sivas
105.1.2 Climate
Summers in Sivas are hot and dry but with low levels of
humidity, and winters are bitterly cold. As with most
other parts of Anatolian highland, nights even in summer
are a bit chilly in Sivas, so don't forget to pack along at
least a cardigan with you.
105.2 Get in
105.2.1 By plane
There are daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara to Sivas

Nuri Demirağ Airport (VAS). A number of other cities
across Turkey are also served with less frequent flights.
In summer, there are weekly flights from Amsterdam and
Dusseldorf.
105.2.2 By train
Trains from:
Çifte Minareli Medrese in Sivas
• Istanbul, Izmit, Eskişehir (Doğu Express, Güney Ex-
press, Vangölü Express)
Sivas is a city in northeastern part of Central Anatolia,
Turkey. • Ankara, Kayseri (Doğu Express, Erzurum Express,
Güney Express, Vangölü Express, 4 Eylül Mavi Treni)
• Batman, Diyarbakir, Malatya (Güney Express, 4

105.1 Understand Eylül Mavi Treni)
• Tatvan (Lake Van), Muş, Elazig (Vangölü Express)

105.1.1 History
• Kars, Erzurum, Erzincan (Doğu Express, Erzurum
Sivas is very old city in Anatolia. Its name was Sebasti- Express)
apolis in Byzantium period and it was an important city
in the theme of Cappadocia. After Turks arrived, the city • Samsun — a local train running several times a day,
became an important centre during Seljuk period. In Ot- for which tickets must be purchased on the day of
toman period, Sivas was the capital of the province of travel.
Rum.
Sivas Congress was an assembly of the Turkish National A sleeping berth on Güney Express from Istanbul costs 55
Movement held from 4 September to 11 September 1919, TL.
which lead to the War of Independence. See Turkish State Railways website for more details .
275
276 CHAPTER 105. SIVAS
105.2.3 By bus 105.7 Eat

As Turkish bus system is extensive, you can find buses
from many cities in Turkey, including Istanbul (70 TL
105.7.1 Foods
one-way, which takes around 14 hours) and Ankara
among many others. • Sivas Köfte — if you've been missing pork in this
overwhelmingly Muslim country, this local specialty
bears a strong resemblance to breakfast sausage.
105.3 Get around
105.7.2 Restaurants
105.3.1 By bus
• Sıla Etli Ekmek. A great place to have etli ekmek—
There are several bus line in city center. long thin breads topped with finely minced meat,
kind of a Turkish pizza, a speciality of Central Ana-
• 1-A, 1-B, 1-D, 2-A and 2-B passes Sivas Train Sta- tolia.
tion.
• Except 6-A, 6-B, 6-C, 11-B and 11-C, all bus lines
go to the Coach Station. 105.8 Drink
• 6-B, 6-C and 11-B passes Sivas Police Headquarter.
• Çerkezin Kahvesi is a good place to have a cup of
• 6-C and 11-B passes the “Eğriköprü" which is a his- Turkish coffee.
torical bridge.
• 2-A and 2-B passes the “Kesikköprü" which is a his-
torical bridge. 105.9 Sleep
• 5-A and 5-B passes the Tomb of Abdulvahhabi
Gazi. 105.10 Connect
• 11-B and 11-C go to the Cumhuriyet University.
The telephone code of the city (and surrounding towns)
is (+90) 346.
105.3.2 By taxi
Here is a list of average prices for taxi rides along some 105.11 Go next
important routes in Sivas:
• Divriği, with its impressive mosque that is a
• Airport-City Center: 60 TL
UNESCO World Heritage site in the east, is 180
• Coach Station-City Centre: 25 TL km away and reachable by minibuses and trains from
Sivas.
• Train Station-City Centre: 8 TL
• Samsun — largest city of Black Sea Turkey is easily
reachable by a lovely train ride through the Turkish
105.4 See countryside.
• Kayseri — Turkey’s ninth largest city

• Buruciye Medresesi (at the city centre). An ancient
Islamic school with wonderful architecture with the
usual majestic gate like the other Seljuk sites have. A
nice to take lots of photographs as great sights occur 105.11.1 Spas
as the sun moves.
There are a number of spas in the countryside surround-
ing Sivas.
105.5 Do
• Soğuk Çermik is a spa center. Hafik, Todurge
(Zara), and Gokpinar (Gurun) Lakes are some of
105.6 Buy the interesting nearby places for picnicking, boating
and fishing.
105.11. GO NEXT 277
• Besides its historical treasures, the surrounding re-

gion possesses several other specialties, one of
which is Balıklı Kaplıca, an interesting spa in the
town of Kangal. It is a thermal spring, filled with
tiny fish living in the hot waters, which provides a
different type of cure for skin complaints. It is the
only cure center in the world for psoriasis, known in
Turkish as sedef hastalığı.
Chapter 106
Cappadocia
106.1.1 History
The prehistoric settlements of the area are Koskhoyuk

(Kosk Mound) in Nigde, Aksaray Asikli Mound, Nevse-
hir Civelek cave and, in the southeast, Kultepe, Kanis
and Alisar in the environs of Kayseri. This area with
unusual topographic characteristics was regarded as sa-
cred and called, in the Scythian/Khatti language, as Khep-
atukha, meaning “the country of the people of the chief
god Hepat”, although there are more poetic claims on
the origin of the region’s name, such as the Old Persian
Katpatuka, which allegedly means “the land of beautiful
horses”. The tablets called Cappadocian Tablets and the
Hittite works of art in Alisar are of the important remains
dating from 2000s B.C. After 1200s B.C., the Tabal prin-
Rock houses in Göreme cipality, of the Khatti Branches of Scythians, became
strong and founded the Kingdom of Tabal. Following the
Late Hittite and Persian aras, the Cappadocian Kingdom
Cappadocia (Turkish: Kapadokya) is an area in Central was established in 332 B.C. During the Roman era the
Anatolia in Turkey best known for its unique moon-like area served as a shelter for the early escaping Christians.
landscape, underground cities, cave churches and houses There are also several underground cities used by early
carved in the rocks. Christians as hideouts in Cappadocia.
106.1 Understand
Yaprakhisar
The ancient region of Cappadocia is located in cen-
tral Anatolia between the cities of Nevsehir, Nigde and
Kayseri. Millions of years ago violent eruptions of the
volcanoes Mt. Erciyes and Mt. Hasan covered the 106.2 Cities
surrounding plateau with tuff. Wind and weather have
eroded the soft volcanic rock into hundreds of strangely • Avanos — pottery town located on the banks of the
shaped pillars, cones and “fairy chimneys”, in colors rang- longest river in Turkey - Kizilirmak river
ing from pink to green and yellow. From the ancient
times, men have hallowed out these soft rocks, and they • Cavusin
have made countless cave churches, chapels and monas-
teries. • Göreme — fairy chimneys in the rock city. One of
the main tourist spots in Cappadocia.
The churches are from the early Christianity. The art style
of the churches can be classified into two categories: the • Güzelyurt — historic town close to Ihlara Valley
8th and 9th century are the iconoclastic years - the 10th to
the 13th centuries whose decorations represent the lives • Nevsehir — capital of the region
of Christ and various Saints. The architectural plans of
the churches are uncomplicated. • Ortahisar — features rock castle
278
106.4.2 By plane
Landscape of Cappadocia
• Uçhisar — superb views of the Cappadocia valley

that can be seen from its rock castle
• Ürgüp — cave dwellings, as well as the rock cones The fastest and most comfortable way of reaching Cap-
in and around this city padocia is using the airway. There are two main air-
ports that you can use to reach Cappadocia. One of them
is Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR) located in Kayseri and
nearly one hour driving to the center of Cappadocia re-
gion. Turkish Airlines operates several direct (nonstop)
flights from Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IST) to Kayseri
Erkilet Airport. There are also daily flights from Izmir
into Kayseri via Istanbul. It’s easy to arrange a transfer or
shuttle bus from Kayseri Airport to Cappadocia.
Ibrahimpasa The second one is Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV),
which is located in Gülşehir town of Nevşehir Province.
Turkish Airlines operates direct (nonstop) flight from Is-
tanbul Ataturk to Nevsehir Kapadokya twice a day.
• Ihlara Valley (Ihlara Vadisi) — lots of churches 106.4.3 By train
carved into rocks, this valley is about an hour west
of the core of Cappadocia, i.e. Ürgüp/Göreme area Kayseri is on a busy railway route. It is possible to find
suitable trains to Kayseri from almost all the train sta-
tions of Turkey. From Kayseri, you can take bus to go to
106.4 Get in Göreme.
106.4.1 By bus
106.5 Get around
Most of the bus companies have bus services to Nevsehir
and Göreme. By bus: Due to the very low population density which leads to lim-
ited public transportation, and spread out nature of the
• Istanbul - 12 hours sites (Cappadocia is a region, not an area), one may want
to consider either renting a car or hiring a tour package.
• Ankara - 5 hours
However, you may come across car rentals trying to
• Bursa - 11 hours rip off exorbitant prices as much as 100 TL per day.
Bargaining is the way to go in such instances.
• Izmir - 12 hours
• Konya - 4 hours
106.6 See
• Antalya - 9 hours
• Çanakkale - 17 hours • Old greek houses in Sinasos

280 CHAPTER 106. CAPPADOCIA
• Göreme Open Air Museum and Dark Church - is Also there are a number of ancient underground cities
a complex of churches and chapels, dating back to which have up to 8 stories of underground tunnels and
10th century. There are great frescoes in many, Yi- caves, about 85 m deep. There were rooms for grain stor-
lanli Church, Tokali Church are among the most image, sleeping chambers, kitchens and ventilation shafts.
portant. Long time ago they've been used as hiding places during
times of raids. But now they work as museums and are
open to the public.
Underground cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu are the
two most important.
• Derinkuyu, Derinkuyu town (29km from Nevşehir,

on the road to Niğde), ☎ (384) 271 21 67. April-
İbrahimpaşa panorama October 08:00 - 19:00, November-March 08:00
- 17:00. Largest excavated underground city in
Turkey built in the 8th–7th centuries B.C. About
• Mustafapaşa and İbrahimpaşa towns half of it is accessible to visitors now. 20 TL.
• Ihlara Canyon- beautiful canyon with cave churches • Kaymaklı, Kaymaklı village (19 km from Nevşehir,
dug out of the walls of the valley. You are urged to on the road to Niğde). April-October 08:00 - 19:00,
walk along the valley and explore the churches and November-March 08:00 - 17:00. Kaymaklı's struc-
its numerous frescoes. ture and layout is different from Derinkuyu: the tun-
nels are lower, narrower, and more steeply inclined.
It has 4 floors opened for visitors. 20 TL.
• Zelve Open Air Museum - a ghost town with lots of
caves. It’s about 10 km from Goreme or 5 km from
Avanos. • Özkonak (N 14 km of Avanos). April-October
08:00 - 19:00, November-March 08:00 - 17:00.
Features only one underground floor, although it
• Zelve is also one the most impressing valleys in the
covers a large area. 10 TL.
region offering a more disorganised and rough hike.
• Gaziemir (between Kaymakli (35 km from it) and

• Gümüşler Monastery (10 km from Niğde in the vil- Ihlara valley (25 km)), ☎ +90 (554)5411401,
lage of Gümüşler). Spectacular monastery carved in e-mail: cappadociaundergroundcity@hotmail.com.
rock, hidden from the outside world. Dated at 10- 08:00 - 20:00. It has two underground churches,
11th century and only recovered in the 1960s. The camel staying place (which is the only one under-
ticket seller speaks some English and can give you a ground caravansary in the Cappadocia) and a large
tour. The monastery has some well preserved fres- agora.
coes, including the only smiling (Mona Lisa style)
Madonna in the world. 3 TL.
• Mazıköy
106.6.1 Underground cities

106.7 Do
• Hiking - Following the paths along the valleys is an
amazing (and free) option. Check with your hotel
owner or the tourist office for a map of the area with
suggested walks and trails. There are several nice
loops on packed dirt, sand and rock, that maintain a
constant elevation and pass through the scenic val-
leys.
• Güvercinlik (Pigeon) Valley - You can
hike the Pigeon Valley between Göreme and
Uçhisar. The 4km trail starts from the road
near the Ataman Hotel on the south side of
Göreme or on the paved road on the north side
of the hill where Uçhisar Castle sits in Uçhisar.
Kaymakli underground city Both trailheads are signed. Stick to the more
106.8. EAT 281
traveled trails and you will have no trouble to enjoy today and in the future.Cross Golf uses the
finding your way on this moderately hilly hike. natural features of the landscape to challenge even
The path through the valley offers spectacular the most experienced golfer. The fairy chimneys,
views of the natural cliffs and the man-made fascinating rock formations and flora and fauna in
caves and passes through a few tunnels carved the unique environment of Cappadocia remain un-
into the rock. affected by Cross Golf.
• Rose Valley (From Çavuşin, Ortahisar and

Kızılçukur). Beautiful green valley. 106.8 Eat
Dishes:
• Dry apricots and grapes
• Mantı (kind of ravioli with minced meat served with

yoghurt and garlic sauce)
• Testi Kebap (jug kebap)- Meat and vegetables

cooked in a clay pot (or jug) sealed with bread
dough. The pot is broken when serving.
Rose Valley
Testi Kebab
• Pastirmali kuru fasulye (white beans with spiced

meat)
From Kale Church in Rose Valley
• Local wines - Cappadocia is one of the biggest wine-
producing regions in Turkey, and many wineries
• Hot Air Balloon Tours : are one of the most popu- thoroughout the region’s towns offer winetasting op-
lar activities in Goreme. Typically lifting off at sun- tions.
rise, these rides last about an hour in the air and lit-
erally go wherever the wind may blow in the Cap- • sweets
padocia Valley. The balloon baskets hold around 20
people with the pilot riding air currents much like a Places:
boat, floating down the valleys, often below the ridge
line and quite close to the chimney rocks. It’s a fan- • Grape Church (near Uzumlu Church
tastic ride and if you've ever had the urge to splurge in Kizil Vadi=Red Valley), e-mail:
on a balloon ride, this would be the place to do it. kizilcukuribrahim@hotmail.com. Excellent
There are 15 balloon companies in the region. local cuisine and inspiring amosphere. Run by
Ibrahim Sakinan. Has a few rooms to sleep.
• Cross Golf. Cappadocia is a national park and its
natural environment must be protected for everyone greek kitchen in guzelyurt
282 CHAPTER 106. CAPPADOCIA
106.9 Drink
A trip to Cappadocia is not complete without visiting the
Turasan Wine Factory. The grapes which are collected
from local farmers are used for producing the world wide
famous Cappadocia wines.
106.10 Sleep
You are strongly recommended to stay in one of the cave
hotels which are the specialty of the region. There are
also many accommodation options in Urgup, Goreme,
Uchisar and Avanos towns for every budget of traveler.
you can find also bewitching historical greek mansions
and cave hotels in Güzelyurt
In Cappadocia from five star hotels to little hostels there
is a variety of accommodation facilities. However, the
towns of ibrahim pasa (babayan)and Ayvalı are probably
the most authentic ones. The restored Greek houses offer
cave and arched rooms for those who want to stay in a
pleasant accommodation.
106.11 Buy
Cappadocia is an important area for shopping, with won-
derful carpets and kilims and very local wines. It is also
a great region for trekking and the scenery is wonderful
in all seasons for photograph taking.
106.12 Stay safe
Panorama
Chapter 107
Cavusin
Çavuşin is a village in Cappadocia. carved onto the volcanic hills of the region. Rooms
with en-suite bathroom, TV, and central heating.
From €70 (double/night) including breakfast.
107.1 Understand
107.10 Go next
107.2 Get in
There are minibuses from Nevşehir and Göreme every 30
minutes
107.3 Get around
107.4 See
• Church of John the Baptist
• Nicephoras Phocas
• Rose Valley (hiking path)
• Red Valley (sunset view point)
• Fairy Chimneys Valley (Pasabag)
107.5 Do
107.6 Buy
107.7 Eat
107.8 Drink
107.9 Sleep
• In Pension. Çavuşin. +90 384 532-70-70.
• Village Cave Hotel, Cavusin, ☎ +90 384

532-71-97, fax: +90 384 532-71-44, e-mail:
info@thevillagecave.com. One of “cave hotels”
283
Chapter 108
Göreme
even if the bus ticket says Göreme. It is a common oc-

currence for a bus company to sell you a ticket that says
Göreme but then drop you off somewhere in Nevşehir,
sometimes at a tour office, and hope that the folks at the
tour office will help you get to the Göreme bus station.
The Metro Turizm bus company is reliable, and the trans-
fer is included in the ticket.
There are numerous buses from Göreme to other parts of
Turkey. The cheapest fare quoted to Istanbul as of July
2010 was 50 TL direct from Sultanahmet (Old City), Is-
tanbul by Suha Company with reclining seats and TV sets
at the back of every seat, though this required changing
Love Valley buses at Nevsehir and arriving at Göreme by shuttle most
of the times.
Goreme (Göreme, pronounced guh-reh-meh, uh like er
in “her”) is a town in the Cappadocia region of Turkey.
108.2.2 By plane
The town is centered in the middle of an internationally
popular region that is best known for its natural rock for-
The nearest airports to Goreme are in Kayseri or
mations, often called “fairy chimneys”.
Nevsehir. To Kayseri Airport, Turkish Airlines as well
as Onur Air or Pegasus have several flights a day from
Istanbul. SunExpress is another low-cost option.
108.1 Understand
Outside the airport are only taxis (cost 12 TL to the main
bus station, otogar) and arranged shuttle buses, no dol-
108.2 Get in muş. The stop for city buses is a bit down the road fol-
lowing the airport exit. The Kayseri otogar is far from the
airport. From otogar, there are very limited direct lines
108.2.1 By bus to Göreme (10 TL), but more frequent lines to Avanos,
where you can transfer to a local bus for the remaining
Several bus companies (Nevsehirliler, Metro, Goreme
9km to Göreme; the station is unmarked and the ride
Tourism, Suha and Göreme Cappadocia) have day-time
costs 2.5 TL.
and overnight buses that run directly from Göreme to
Istanbul (or directly from Nevshehir, 20 minutes down If you have a hotel transfer option, take it: it is much more
the road). You can catch a bus from Istanbul by catching convenient.
a ferry to the Harem ferry port. Make sure you book a
couple of days in advance in peak times as buses book
out. There are connections to Konya (3½ hours), Ankara 108.3 Get around
(40 TL, 5 hours including a transfer in Nevşehir), Denizli
(10 hours), Pamukkale (10 hours), Selçuk (12 hours), The town of Goreme is fairly small, and walking is your
Kusadasi (12 hours), Marmaris (13 hours), Bodrum (13 best option. Walking also provides excellent views of the
hours), Alanya (9 hours), Çıralı (10 hours), Canakkale surrounding canyons, which are sights themselves. Avail-
(17 hours), Kayseri (2 hours, 15 TL), Trabzon, Van. able for rent are mountain bikes, scooters, motorcycles
If you book your ticket directly to Göreme, make sure and all terrain quads. There is regular bus service to
that the bus (or a smaller van associated with the bus com- Nevşehir (every half hour as of Oct. 2008), and from
pany) will drop you off at the Göreme bus station (otogar) there to regional destinations including the underground
284
108.5. DO 285
cities at Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu. Dolmus service also

runs approx. every hour to nearby cities like Avanos and
Urgup.
If you travel by bus, make sure you know when the last
bus back to Göreme is. It is possible that service from
Nevşehir stops at 18:00.
108.4 See
Göreme has a wide selection of natural and cultural won-
ders. Simply walking through the village you will be
amazed at the bizarre 'fairy chimney' rocks cut naturally
by the wind and rain. Dark Church
Several tour operators offer one-day packages (green tour,
red tour, blue tour) that may include a stop at a Cara-
vansari, one of the amazing underground cities, a walk
through the ancient churches decorated with frescoes, and
finally a stop at a carpet/pottery/onyx shop. Whereas
these one-day tours can make your journey significantly
easier, they are fairly expensive (expect to pay about 100
TL per person). The red tour is almost a scam, since you
can do the trip yourself almost for free (only twice 2 TL
for the public bus, and 15 TL for the open-air museum).
Furthermore, avoid buying at the shops, as you pay 2-3
times higher through commissions.
• Göreme Open Air Museum. The museum has a

collection of caves and fairy chimneys. The museum three Fairy Chimneys
is a succession of very nice underground churches,
some with simple geometric motifs, and others with
wonderful frescoes from the 11th and 12th cen- owner or the tourist office for a map of the area with
turies. Free toilets at the entrance of the site; ex- suggested walks and trails. There are several nice
pensive café and shop. Be sure to visit the church loops on packed dirt, sand and rock, that maintain a
in a cave across the highway outside the museum constant elevation and pass through the scenic val-
entrance, which is included in museum admission leys.
(save your ticket). 20 TL, 10 TL extra for the Dark
Church. • Pigeon/Love/Red & Rose valleys can be
walked individually or together and each 'trail'
offers different landscapes. Pigeon valley
If you are on a budget, note that other churches with sim-
walk starts from the end of the street Flin-
ple geometrical motifs can be seen for free in the chim-
stone’s Hotel is on and leads to Uçhisar (ap-
neys across the street (easy hike).
prox 1 hr). Love Valley starts from the Onyx
Factory at the bottom of Uçhisar and takes you
to Çavuşin (approx 1 hr). Red & Rose Val-
108.5 Do ley is on the way back to Göreme and can be
seen on a 2 hour 15TL sunset tour (available
• Sunset Point - Every night local guys will be up at everywhere) or you can easily spend 1-4 hours
the highest point in town (North) showing off horses, walking around the valleys independently. All
ATV’s, family-owned caves or private gardens to fe- stunning landscapes and fun to walk around.
male tourists willing to listen. The spectacle alone is Unfortunately the paths are poorly marked.
worthwhile. The view at sunset (or sunrise with the
balloons) is well worth the 10 minute walk uphill. • Hamami/Turkish Bath - There is a Turkish bath
Everyone in town knows sunset point. near the center of town to relax after a long day of
hiking. The standard service for steam room, mud
• Hiking - Following the paths along the valleys is an face mask, soap massage, and scrubbing is 60 TRY.
amazing (and free) option. Check with your hotel An additional tip for your bath attendant is strongly
286 CHAPTER 108. GÖREME
urged.
For a cheaper option take the 15 min. scenic minibus ride

to the nearby city of Nevsehir where you can get the same
service in a non-tourist place for as low as 25 TL. Just get
off at the main intersection in Nevsehir and ask around
for “Hamam”.
• Turkish Night Dinner. Nightly show 8PM-11PM.

Hotels and agencies will offer to take you to a real
Turkish dinner in an underground restaurant. It is
very touristy with dance troupes, dervish dancing,
etc. The food is ok and beer, wine, and raki is un- PotteryStore
limited. 80 TL.
Potter
Dervish dancing at Turkish Night

108.7 Eat
Goreme has a wide selection of typical Kebabs and Pide,
as well as some unusual 'pottery' dishes that are prepared
and served in a clay pot which you can 'break' open. Of-
ten the 'pottery kebabs’ are precooked earlier in the day
108.6 Buy so check around to see which restaurants require a 'pot-
tery kebab' booking - it’s likely that they will be the places
Pottery - Avanos, 10 km away, has been a pottery center that make the kebab on the spot (they take about an hour
for centuries. Many stores will sell pottery in Goreme, to cook). Many of the restaurants and bars change hands
and you may end up at a pottery workshop at the end on a regular basis, making specific recommendations dif-
of a tour, but for the best prices, head into Avanos and ficult.
wander around the back streets. Compare the prices and That said, Alaturca, with mains from 15-20 YTL, is con-
quality, and if you are worried about it surviving ship- sidered to be one of the finer dining establishments in cen-
ping/your backpack, ask them to stand on it to test the tral Turkey, but is overpriced for the quality of food and
strength (vases, jugs, and larger objects should take their a stiff service that is out of place in an otherwise infor-
weight). While the quality in touristy shops is often high, mal town. Alaturca is on the secondary road that heads
you will be paying 2-3 times what you otherwise would. towards the open Air Museum.
Carpets - Goreme and the surrounding area are known
as one of the top places to buy carpets in Turkey. Their • Cappadocia Kebap Center, Müze Cad. (just south
proximity to well known local weaving villages means of bus station across canal, it’s small so look care-
the prices are generally cheaper than Istanbul and the at- fully). Good food at competitive prices, a standard
mosphere for purchasing far more relaxed with few if döner sandwich is 4 TL for example.
any hassles. Try Tribal Collections -Nomadic Ruga &
Textiles- they get the best reviews. • Meeting Point Cafe, Müze Caddesi (near the
108.8. DRINK 287
Canal). Cenap and Eliza are very friendly hosts; 108.8 Drink
Eliza, being a South African Malay cooks delicious
curry. Taste the excellent smoothies and fresh juices Simply walking by carpet shops will open invitations for
(orange and watermelon or watermelon and ginger tea. If you're thirsty, take advantage of this free drink and
are great). The cafe becomes a bar in the evenings - learn something about carpets at the same time.
popular with locals and tourists alike - and, in colder
months, Cenap sometimes hosts 'fire parties’. For a good western style coffee, M&M Cafe on the main
street serves a great cappuccino, with real espresso and a
• Manzara Restaurant (up the hill from the center of nice little area to sit outside. Coffeedocia, near the bus
town). With one of the best views in town, catching station is a larger place, better to relax but with a very
the sunset with a cocktail from the upper deck is a westernised feel, drinks are not as good and higher priced.
must do in Cappadocia. They also have a lower deck For the bar scene, several bars and clubs are open (pri-
and indoor dining with a fireplace. The kebab plate marily in the high season), and there is a disco in nearby
is a good choice for dinner. Avanos frequented by locals and tourists alike.
• Firin Express (off the main street by the junction).

Has freshly baked and wonderful Pide and Lahma- 108.9 Sleep
cun for a few Lira.
• Safran Restaurant (just down from the museum Göreme has a huge selection of hostels, hotels, and guest
street after the see bank. First highest terrace houses (some 60 odd). The friendly (and tout-free) ac-
in the middle of the center), ☎ +90 536 620 commodation office can help you find something. Up-
76 56 (mobile of John the manager), e-mail: market and boutique hotels also exist in Göreme. Many
fattarantula@hotmail.com. Climb the stone steps to places include breakfast in these prices (as of Mar 2008).
this charming terrace restaurant run by a friendly As of 2012, prices have become higher - 20 TL is the
family from Malatya in Eastern Turkey who have starting point for dorm beds with breakfast, and doubles
worked in hospitality in Goreme for approximately run upward of 50 TL.
20 years. Emine is a superb cook. What makes the Many of Göreme’s hostels and hotels offer the unusual
food of this restaurant amazing is that this is the option of sleeping in a cave. Much of the rock in the area
only restaurant in the town whatsoever that makes is sandstone (tufa) which is fairly soft, and for centuries
both the eastern and western foods. Ilker, Emine’s rooms (and houses) have been created by cutting directly
German-born nephew speaks excellent English and into the soft rock. Comforts in these 'cave rooms’ range
cooks delicious manti, Turkish ravioli, if he can be from truly cave like to beautiful and tasteful with modern
coaxed into it. bathrooms; almost all have windows and are fairly well
lit.
• Nazar Borek (just up from Meeting Point Cafe). A
small pastry cafe with outside wooden seating area
on a platform above the canal. Proprietors Top 108.9.1 Budget
Deck (Mustafa) and Reyfik are fantastic hosts. Their
sweet and savoury pastries good value and delicious. • (Gümüş) Silver Cave Hotel, ☎ +90 384
271 2438, fax: +90 384 2712821, e-mail:
• Orient Restaurant (on the way out of the village gumus@silvercavehotel.com. Informal & friendly
on the Uçhisar, Nevsehir road). A high class, beau- service, clean rooms with en-suite shower/wc, and
tifully decorated eating joint that can provide both very reasonable rates make this hotel/pension a
not-too-expensive top end meals and fare to suit pleasure to stay in. Located in Göreme 5 minutes
tighter budgets. Proprietor Refayi speaks excellent walk from the bus station, Gümüş makes a great
English and French. starting point for exploration of the surrounding
areas. Help with planning tours and visits to local
• Old Cappadocia Cafe & Restaurant, Hakkipasa culture is available upon request. Facilities include
Meydani Isalli mahallesi (opposite of central a cave bar, flower garden, barbecue & laundry
mosque), ☎ 0384 271 2858. Homemade meal on service. Breakfast is included. Single €15, doubles
your table. The mother is cooker, the father is baker from €25, triples from €35. +€10 for Deluxe
and the son is waiter. All staff from in family. If rooms.
you believe family kitchen, just visit there. 5 TL.
• Shoestring Cave Hostel, fax: +90 384 271 22
• Silk Road Kebabs (near Pasha Bar) has excellent 99, e-mail: info@shoestringcave.com. Check-out:
and filling chicken kebab (get the 1/2 loaf) for 2.50 10AM. A good budget option with authentic cave
TL. rooms and dorm rooms at 20 TL pp. Heat and hot
288 CHAPTER 108. GÖREME
water are solar powered often leaving a scarcity of • Kelebek Pension, Kelebek Pension Aydinli Mah.,
heat in the cooler spring and fall seasons. A Turkish ☎ (+90) 384 271 2531. A simple, very beautiful ho-
breakfast buffet is included. The common are has 2 tel/pension. The rooms are nice and there’s a beauti-
computers for use. En-suite double room €35. ful, airy common area for relaxing, eating breakfast,
and using the internet. I stayed in a small inexpen-
• Star Cave Pension. Great outdoor lounges and re- sive room (with medieval frescoes on the roof) but
laxed atmosphere. Includes a mediocre breakfast. some of the rooms are quite grand. €35 +.
All rooms built in caves with ensuites. Don't expect
for promises of free transfers to the bus station to • Ottoman House. Simple and affordable hotel with
come to fruition though as the manager forgot us. friendly, English speaking staff. Breakfast is in-
The receptionist walked us. The Australian seems cluded and the rooftop views boast views of the hot
to have left to be replaced with a middle aged and air balloons taking off.
a young Turkish guy. They were not good hosts un-
less you were handing them money. Whereas many • Arif Cave Pension Hotel, Aydınkıragı Mah, ☎
hostels make cheap meals at a nominal price, this +90 384 271-23-61. Check-in: 11AM, check-out:
hostel offers an occasional meal at restaurant prices. 10:30AM. Cave rooms at the top of Göreme town
Although it is not bad, going to an actual restaurant where you are able watch around. You can watch
might be more economical. Dorm 20TL, doubles the sunset from the terrace. €35.
start at 70TL.
• Cave Life Pension, Eski Bağ Yolu (5 mins up
• Kookaburra Pension, Konak Sokak 10. Not far the hill from the bus station, hotel’s manager can
from the bus stop, walking south you should see a pick you up if you call them), ☎ +90 384 271-29-
sign pointing the right direction. The signs disap- 36. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: 10AM. Just near
pear closer to the hostel, but any one around should Goreme Open Air museum with a beautiful view
be able to point you toward the small uphill alley. from the terrace. Free wi-fi in public areas. Ex-
Beautiful view over the city, in a central location, tremely friendly and helpful staff. From €40 incl.
free wi-fi, but many people have reported the owner breakfast.
as being incredibly rude. Laundry service 15 TL.
After lots of bad reviews on TripAdvisor, don't ex-
pect this place to be packed. Dorm 30TL, Double 108.9.2 Mid Range
60+ TL, including tiny breakfast.
• Traveller’s Cave Pension, Gaferli Mah. No:28
• Flintstones. A bit up the creek; literally! It’s up (5 minutes walk from Goreme bus station: free
the dry riverbed from the scooter and bicycle rental pick up from Goreme bus station), ☎ +90
near the bus station (and in fact, almost at the start 0384-271-2707, fax: 0384-271-2624, e-mail:
of the pigeon valley hike) but they have nice rooms, pension@travellerscave.com. Check-in: 24-hour,
a dorm, a pool and laundry service. And yes, you check-out: 10AM. located at high position at
get to sleep in a cave so there might be some insects Goreme, with great Goreme national park view
there. They have the same solar heated showers so from their room and terrace. offers great breakfast,
be early or be cold. There are some mixed reviews hospitality, cheaper OP tours and other service
though. 20 TL/double room.
• Traveller’s Cave Hotel, Aidinli Mahallesi Görceli
• Local Cave House Hotel. Located in the center Sokak no 7 (5 minutes walk from the bus station:
of Goreme, offers 9 cave rooms 1 family cave suite free pick up from bus station), ☎ +90 384 271-27-
1 honeymoon suite, deluxe suites with double and 80. Check-in: 24-hour. Located at high position.
single bed. Good breakfast, books tours and other service (part-
ner with HIRO tours), good free WiFi. €50-70.
• Rock Valley Pension (300 metres from bus
stop, plenty of signs along the road), ☎ +90
384 2712153, fax: +90 384 2712821, e-mail:
info@rockvalleycappadocia.com. Great place to
108.10 Stay safe
stay, with swimming pool and huge lounge area. Ex-
tremely friendly staff. Includes an impressive free • There is a high concentration of stray animals here
breakfast and free wi-fi internet. Dorm 20 TL, dou- in the high-season.
ble rooms from 70 TL.
Hiking is mild, not notably strenuous or fraught with dan-
• Nomad Cave Hostel (5 minute walk from the bus ger that can't be ascertained by oneself. Woman however
station), ☎ +90 384 271-22-04. Check-out: 10AM. should not go hiking in the valleys alone as there have
€12. been a few incidents over the years.
108.11. GO NEXT 289
Police Station at Open Air museum
ladder and chimney with foot-support
108.11 Go next
Move on to Malatya or Kahta and take a tour to Mount
Nemrut. (Unesco World heritage site)
Chapter 109
Güzelyurt
This article is about the Turkish town. For the 109.9 Sleep
town in Cyprus known in Turkish as Güzelyurt,
see Morphou. kapadokya ihlara konaklari & caves is a historical greek
mansion . it has cave and stone rooms . provide breakfast
Güzelyurt is a town in Cappadocia. and dinner also has cave wine house
karamanli konagi is a historical greek mansion. it has 11
stone rooms.
109.1 Understand
Güzelyurt is a historic town close to Ihlara Valley 109.10 Connect
in greater Cappadocia region, officially in Aksaray
Province. for ihlara valley and guzelyurt tour and trekking programs
www.lanoraturizm.com or 90 554 5411401
Formerly a Greek town, the name of Güzelyurt was
Gelviri then.
109.11 Go next
109.2 Get in
109.3 Get around
109.4 See
• St Gregorius Church is a must see in town.
109.5 Do
• Trekking along the Monastery Valley.
• Turkish-Greek friendship festival.
109.6 Buy
109.7 Eat
109.8 Drink
290
Chapter 110
Nevsehir
110.2.2 By train
The nearest railway station is located in Kayseri. The

railway line runs from Ankara to Kayseri and then splits
into a line towards Sivas in the east and towards Nigde,
Karaman and Adana in the south. Express trains take
about 7 hours from Ankara to Kayseri. The Erzurum
Express (Erzurum Ekspresi) departs in the early after-
noon from Ankara and comes in the evening to Kayseri,
the Güney Express (Güney Ekspresi) leaves early in the
morning from Ankara and comes in the afternoon to
Kayseri. The Çukurova Mavi Tren and Dogu Ekspresi
go in the evening from Ankara and come in the middle of
View on Nevsehir the night to Kayseri.
Nevsehir is a city in Cappadocia.

110.2.3 By bus
• Bus station (on the extension of Lale Caddesi,

110.1 Understand Gülşehir Caddesi).
Nevşehir is one of the major cities in Cappadoccia Re- There are direct connections to Adana, Alanya, Antalya,
gion which displays a beautiful combination of nature and Ankara, Kayseri, Konya, Mersin, Istanbul, Izmir and
history. Pamukkale.
Coach operator Nevtur has buses running every 2 hours
• Tourist Information office, Ataturk Bulvarı, ☎ from the main bus terminal Isletmesi Sehirlerarasi in
2131137. Ankara to Nevsehir and vice versa. The trip takes 4 hours
including a break of 30 minutes and costs TL20.
Nevsehir Seyahat runs buses 6 times a day from Ankara
to Nevsehir (departure from Ankara at 1:30, 9, 11, 13, 15
110.2 Get in and 18:30, travel time: 4 hours 30 min) and 2 buses per
day from Istanbul to Nevsehir (departure from Istanbul at
110.2.1 By plane 20:00 and 20:30, journey time: 11 hours 30 min).
All important places in Cappadocia (eg: Avanos,
• Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (30 km away from Goreme, Urgup) can be reached by dolmus, which start
the city center), ☎ +90 384 421 4455. at Saatci Hoca Caddesi.
Nevsehir is 75 km (travel time: 1 hour) from Aksaray,
140 km (2 hr 15 min) from Aladaglar National Park,
Reaching the airport is possible via buses, shared taxis 17 km (20 min) from Avanos, 30 Km (40 min) from
and commercial taxis. Derinkuyu, 10 km (15 min) from Goreme, 95 km (1 hr
Turkish airlines has flights from Istanbul on Wed, Thu, 45 min) from Guzelyurt. 110 km (2 hours) from Ihlara
Fri and Sun evening, and flights to Istanbul on Thu, Fri, Valley, 20 km (25 min) from Kaymakli, 100 km (1 hour
Sat and Mon morning. Flight time 1 hr 15 min. 30 minutes) from Kayseri, 90 km (1 hour 30 minutes)
291
292 CHAPTER 110. NEVSEHIR
from Kirsehir, 75 km (1 hr 25 min) from Nigde, 8 km 110.7 Go next

(10 min) from Uchisar and 23 km (25 min) from Urgup.
• Goreme and Urgup are two lively tourist centers.
There are cave dwellings, as well as the rock cones
110.2.4 By car in and around these cities.
Reaching to the province of Nevşehir via highway is pos- • Avanos, on the banks of Kizilirmak river, and
sible from the entire country. Ortahisar are less visited towns.
• Superb views of the Cappadocia valley can be seen

110.3 Get around from the castle located in Uchisar.
Nevsehir is quite small and can be explored on foot. • Also there are a number of underground cities
Tourist Information office and the Museum is located on used by Christians hiding from enemies. There were
Ataturk Bulvarı. Lale Caddesi crosses Atatürk Bulvarı. rooms for grain storage, sleeping chambers, kitchens
Following this line in a southern direction from the old and ventilation shafts. Underground cities of Kay-
town, Damat İbrahim Paşa Külliyesi and citadel can be makli and Derinkuyu are the two most important.
found. There are also two others named Mazi and Ozkay-
nak.
110.4 See
• Ruins of the Ottoman citadel. It comes from
Seljuk period and provides a good overview of the
city. Free entry.
• Damat İbrahim Paşa complex. It was built in

1727 by the eponymous Grand Vizier. The complex
constitutes library, 18th century Kursunlu mosque
and hammam.
• Nevsehir Museum, 1, Turbe Sok., ☎ 384

2131447. Depicts archeological, historic and ethno-
graphic life of the region. Free admission.
110.5 Do
• Sauna - Try one of the affordable Hamams (turkish
baths) of Nevsehir, for a real authentic non-tourist
experience. There is one near the main intersection,
next to the stop of the minibuses to Goreme. Prices
15 TL for Sauna, 25 TL for sauna + scrub and foam
massage.
110.6 Sleep
• Hotel Altınöz, Ragip Uner Cad. No:23, ☎ +90
(384) 213 99 61, e-mail: info@altinozhotel.com.
double room €65.
• Hotel Şems, Atatürk Bulvarı. No:29, ☎ +90 (384)

213 35 97. double room €25.
Chapter 111
Ürgüp
to all major cities in Turkey (Ankara, Antalya, Izmir, Is-

tanbul, Kayseri, etc.) and circulate mainly at night. Be-
ware of companies that will sell tickets not directly to the
Nevsehir’s or Ürgüp’s bus stations as the bus may drop
you in the open field about ten miles from your destina-
tion.
Also there are local dolmus minibuses that go to the
regional capital Nevşehir and nearby towns of Avanos,
Göreme, Uçhisar, and Ortahisar.
111.2.2 By plane
Çatalkaya at Ürgüp The nearest airports are at Kayseri (ten daily flights from
Istanbul by Turkish Airlines and Pegasus, few direct in-
Ürgüp is a town in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. ternational flights Pegasus and TuiFly) and Nevşehir (2
daily flights from Istanbul).
The best way to get to Urgup is to book a shuttle bus in
111.1 Understand advance, which will be waiting for you even if your flight
is delayed. They will bring you to any address in any city
Ürgüp (formerly known as Ossiana in Greek) is an ideal of Cappadocia. The price is 25TL per person. To make
starting point to visit Cappadocia. a reservation contact or .
It used to be a centre of a trade at Seljuk times. Today it Otherwise you will be paying for a taxi.
is still popular for its handicrafts and small shops.
The city attracts lots of travelers, thanks to its geomor- 111.2.3 Hitchhiking
phological sights and cave dwellings.
It is one of the largest towns in Cappadocia and has many Hitchhiking also works very well in all of Cappadocia
cave hotels and restaurants
• Tourist Information Center. Provides some basic 111.3 Get around

information and maps.
Dolmus (minibus) service all areas of the city and leave
from the bus station every 1/2 hour.
111.2 Get in
111.2.1 By bus 111.4 See

• Bus station (in the centre of the town), ☎ +90 384 • Cave Dwellings. In abundancy throughout all town.
341 4766.
• Ürgüp museum. Smallish museum showing coins,
Several bus companies serve Ürgüp: Nevsehirliler, clothes, pottery and some other historical findings
Göreme turizm and Metro. These companies have buses from Ürgüp area. Free entrance.
293
294 CHAPTER 111. ÜRGÜP
• City market which works every Saturday, 500m

from the city center on the road to Mustafapasa.
111.4.1 Of the city centre
Turkish hammam
• Ballooning. Cappadocia is one of the best places

in the world to make a hot air balloon ride. Admir-
ing the tufa formations of the sky is an unforgettable
experience. €120-240, the only difference seems to
Urgup be the duration of the flight either 1hr or 1hr 30mins.
Price can be bargained down to €90 but you have to
push hard..
• Fairy chimneys (On the road Nevsehir-Ürgüp).
• Wine tasting (Turasan winery), Yunak Mahallesi
• Devrent valley (2 km following the road to Avanos). Tevfik Fikret Caddesi No: 6A-B, ☎ +90 384 341
Devrent valley and its remarkable rock formations, 4961. 8:00 – 18:00. Offer guided tours. There is
including the one in the shape of a camel. Superb also wine shop available. Guided tour to the wineries
view on the city. Climb the hill Temmeni through + 3 wine samples 18TL.
narrow streets lined with old Greek houses, to the
tomb of a Seljuk Pasha. • Various hiking and trekking tours. You can buy
tours through the travel agencies to be accompanied
by the professional guides, or organize your trips by
• Pancarlik Valley, SW 3km (there is a turning to the yourself. With a guide you will save time and you
valley 2km passing Urgup when going to Mustafa- will not get lost, but the pace will be taxed and you
pasa). A spectacular lunar landscape of the vol- will surely end up in a carpet shop or very very ex-
canic rock formations. Also there are three rock-cut pensive pottery at the end of a day. All agencies in
churches. And the beautiful and frescoed church of Urgup perform more or less the same tricks. Need-
San Teodoro Pancarlik (built in the 10th century) less to book well in advance, it is better to tour agen-
is the most important and interesting one. It’s sur- cies in the centre of the city the night before and put
rounded with a number of caves carved into the vol- them in competition. Also be aware that you will
canic rock. Overall, Pancarlik Valley is not crowded be mixed with tourists of different nationalities and
at all comparing to some other valleys. that the guide should therefore give the explanations
successively in different languages. It is quite possi-
• Gomeda Valley (on the road to Mustafapasa). ble to visit by yourself all attractions using local bus
or hitchhiking which works quite well to get to the
• Sobesos. Ancient Roman city dating back to the starting point of your walk.
4th century. It houses some well preserved mosaic
areas, two chapels and a few other buildings.
111.6 Buy
111.5 Do Many carpet stores and kilims (woven rugs) on the main
street sell at prices that are much more interesting than
• Hamam. The Turkish bath is quite basic, but the the department stores.
operators doing quite well. For 25 euros you will be Beware of the store that claims to be “a carpet museum”
bathed, massaged and provided with the usual towel. that is just a shop like the others, but can be a little more
The personal is very helpful and friendly. expensive than others.
111.9. SLEEP 295
111.7 Eat
Beware of the restaurants which offer you a variety of
stews cooked in a wood-fire in pottery, because these
dishes require a long cooking and to reduce it they are
prepared ahead of time, sometimes several days in ad-
vance if the sales were not good, and therefore they pose
food safety issues.
• There are several patisseries on the main street and

near bus station.
• Ürgüp Pide. Excellent Pide (pizzas Turkish) and a
good assortment of grilled meats in the courtyard of
the bus station. The service is friendly and fast. A Hotels built within caves in Ürgüp
good solution to eat before taking a bus for a few
euros.
and triple rooms. Some are faux caves dug into the
• Sofra restaurant (on the main street and Ikinci ba- hillside, some are built from stone blocks. The re-
har near the Grand Mosque). Offers authentic cui- lentlessly helpful staff, and the spectacular rooftop
sine at a very reasonable prices. terrace, age highlights. Free wireless internet. From
€40-60 depending on the room.
• Somine cafe and restaurant (located in the heart
of the city). A very nice room with a fireplace in the • Cave Konak Hotel, Dutlu Camii Mah, İstiklal Cd,
center. Fine cuisine and quality service. Dar 2 Sk No. 5 (find the old hamam in the center, the
hotel is opposite), ☎ +90 384 341-43-22. Check-in:
• Ziggy cafe and restaurant (located on the heights 24hrs, check-out: 11AM. A newly restored histor-
of the city). A varied menu and a lovely setting. ical building of traditional stone arched rooms and
ancient underground cave rooms. Friendly, family-
run hotel with atmosphere of Cappadocian culture.
• Dimrit café and restaurant, Yunak Mahallesi Tey-
There are currently 4 suites for 1/2/3/4/5 persons
fik Caddesi 40 (Near the Turasan wineey in Es-
(one with a private roof terrace). Great views from
belli district.), ☎ +90 (384) 341 8585. It is an old
roof terraces and historical balcony. Prices: €99
house converted into a restaurant. Advantage: a
for 2 persons, single person €30 discount, extra bed
panoramic terrace where you can enjoy a superb
€30. Free wireless internet.
view of the valley. It also has an cave-like inside
room. • Altinöz Hotel, Ragip Uner Cad. No: 23,
☎ +90 384 2139961, fax: 2132817, e-mail:
Info@altinozhotel.com.
111.8 Drink
• Anatolia Hotel, Imran Mah. Mehmet D?nler Bul-
vari No:56.
• Angel bar (on the main square). Take a drink while
listening to a good music in this trendy place. It has • Cappadocia Perissia Hotel, Kaysero Cd,
a lovely terrace. ☎ +90 384 3412930, fax: 3414524, e-mail:
Info@perissia.com.tr. 5-Star Hotel. 350 rooms, a
large wellness area
111.9 Sleep • Dinler Hotel, Mehmet Dinler Bulvari No: 7,
☎ +90 384 341 030, fax: 3414896, e-mail:
• Hotel Selcuklu Evi. This is an old Seljuk house Urgup@dinler.com.
restored and tastefully decorated. The hotel is com-
plete with a landscaped garden for relaxation. Some • Gamirasu Cave Hotel, Ayvali Köyü, ☎ +90
rooms have private terraces where you can enjoy a 384 3417485; 3545815, fax: 3417487, e-mail:
beautiful view of the old town. Info@gamirasu.com.
• Gomeda Hotel, Mustafa Pasa Kasabasi Ayvali
• Antik Cave House, Esbelli Mah., Dolay Sokak Koyu Ayrimi, ☎ +90 384 3535471, fax: 3535459.
No. 14 (in the Esbelli district), ☎ +90 384 341-44-
28. Check-in: 24-hr. Set around a stone courtyard • Hotel Janset, Kavakliönü Mah. Ahmet Sucu Cad.,
dressed with flowers, this small hotels has double No:13.
296 CHAPTER 111. ÜRGÜP
• Hotel Surban, Yunak Mh. Pk. 55, ☎ +90 384 and ventilation shafts. Underground cities of Kay-
3414603, 3414761, fax: 3413223. A hotel with makli and Derinkuyu are the two most important.
typical architecture decorated with oriental decora- There are also two others named Mazi and Ozkay-
tion. From its terrace you can enjoy a panoramic nak.
view of the city and the troglodyte constructions.
• Hotel Taskin, Kavakliönü Mah. Ahmet Sucu Cad.

No:42.
• Hotel Ürgüp In, Altikapili Mah. Ahmet Sucu Cad.

No:9.
• Janet Hotel, Ali Baran Numanoglu Bulvari No:155,

☎ +90 384 3413305, fax: 3415413.
• Mustafa Hotel, Kayseri Cad. Karayazi Mevkii, ☎

+90 384 3413970, fax: 341 22 88.
• Nomad Cave Hotel, Altikapili Mah. Atatürk Bul-

vari No:22.
• Esbelli Evi, Esbelli 5B, ☎ +90 384 3413395, e-

mail: Esbelli@smallhgotels.com.tr. 8 rooms
• Yunak Evleri, Yunak Mah., ☎ +90 384 3416920,

e-mail: Yunak@smallhgotels.com.tr. 23 rooms, 4
suites
• Elkep Evi Cave House, Esbelli Mah. 26, ☎ +90

384 3416000, e-mail: Elkep@smallhgotels.com.tr.
21 rooms, 1 suite
• Kayadam, Esbelli Mah.6, ☎ +90 384 3416623, e-

mail: Kayadam@smallhgotels.com.tr. 7 Rooms
• The Room With A View, Esbelli Mah. 40, ☎ +90

384 3414967, e-mail: Room@smallhgotels.com.tr.
1 suite
• Razziya Evi, Cingilli S 24, ☎ +90 384 3415089,

e-mail: Razziya@smallhgotels.com.tr. 7 rooms
111.10 Connect
111.11 Go next
• Goreme - lively tourist center. There are cave
dwellings, as well as the rock cones in and around
the city.
• Avanos, on the banks of Kizilirmak river, and

Ortahisar are less visited towns.
• Superb views of the Cappadocia valley can be seen

from the castle located in Uchisar.
• Also there are a number of underground cities

used by Christians hiding from enemies. There were
rooms for grain storage, sleeping chambers, kitchens
Chapter 112
Uçhisar
112.5 Buy
112.6 Eat
112.7 Drink
• Kocabag Winery, ☎ +90 384 219 29
79, fax: +90 384 219 23 46, e-mail:
memduh.erdogan@kocabag.com. Winehouse
where you can test for free.
Uçhisar Castle 112.8 Sleep

Uçhisar is a town in Cappadocia. • La Maison du Reve (Dream House), Tekeli
Mahalle 17, ☎ +90 384 2192199, fax: +90
384 2192775, e-mail: info@lamaisondureve.com.
112.1 Get in Family-run hotel with en-suite bathrooms. Price in-
clude breakfast. € 20/35/45 per room/night for sin-
gle/double/triple rooms.
112.2 Get around
• Kale Konak, Kale Sok. No : 9 - 50240 Uçhisar
112.3 See (Just to the right of the ticket office for the Castle), ☎
+90 384 219 28 28, e-mail: info@kalekonak.com.
A beautiful boutique hotel with single/double/triple
From the heights of the Uçhisar citadel, you have a mag-
rooms and suites, in both cave and arched rooms.
nificent and unrivaled view of the whole region.
A great hall with a fireplace and reading halls. Even
• Uçhisar Castle / Landlord’s Castle (Uçhisar has its own Hammam (traditional Turkish bath). In-
Kalesi) (The big rock on top of the hill in Uçhisar). ternet and fax. Great service. Around €100 for a
The view from the top of this massive rock with a double, inc breakfast.
number of rooms carved into it is well worth the
price of admission. The path to the top is strenuous • Museum Hotel, Tekeli Mah. 1, ☎ +90 384
but short, mostly stairs and relatively safe. 6 TL. 219 2220, fax: +90 384 219 2444, e-mail:
info@museum-hotel.com. Boutique “cave hotel”.
• There are also many similar hand carved rooms and Airport shuttle may be available. Starting from €
tunnels you can explore in the nearby Pigeon valley. 145 for a standard room and going all the way to €
Less stairs, perhaps less safe. 1650 for one of their totally 'cave' rooms..
• Maisons de Cappadoce (Cappadocia Houses),

112.4 Do Belediye Meydani #6, BP 28, Uçhisar Nevsehir, e-
mail: info@cappadoce.com. Seventeen luxuriously
• Hike the Güvercinlik (Pigeon) Valley. restored cave houses offered as self-catering rentals
297
298 CHAPTER 112. UÇHISAR
in one of Cappadocia’s nicest hotel settings. De-

signed and managed by French architect Jacques
Avizou. Studios (2-3 persons) starting from 140€
up to 980€ for Maison les Roses (6-7 persons, with
own cliffside swimming pool)
• Cappadocia Cave Resort & Spa, Tekeli Mah.

Göreme Cad. Divanlı Sk. 83, ☎ +90 384 219-
31-94. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. A real
“cave hotel” carved into a mountainside. A spa and
handicapped-accessible rooms are available. 249€.
112.9 Go next
Chapter 113
Marmara (region)
Marmara is a region in northwestern Turkey. It is • Bursa — former Ottoman capital featuring lots of
Turkey’s bridge and connection to Europe. Turkey’s early imperial history, now one of the biggest cities
largest city, Istanbul is the region’s unofficial capital. of the country
• Çanakkale — city on the banks of Dardanelles Strait
near the Aegean, hub for visiting Gallipoli, Troy,
113.1 Regions and Bozcaada
• Edirne — another former Ottoman capital with lots
of history to see, first Turkish city when approaching
from west
• Istanbul — metropolis connecting Europe and Asia,
capital of three empires
• Izmit — industrial city east of Istanbul
• Iznik (Nicaea) — historical town on the coast of
Lake İznik which is the site of the first and seventh
ecumenical councils of Christianity
• Tekirdağ — city on the northern coast of Marmara,
famous for its local meatballs and raki, and where
Hungarian prince Rakoczi was exiled
Ottoman bridge spanning Maritsa River in Edirne • Yalova — city south of Istanbul across the Gulf of
Izmit, surrounded by verdant mountains dotted with
thermal springs and waterfalls
• Eastern Marmara — where Ottoman Empire started
700 years ago, featuring historical towns with white-
washed architecture amidst woods and lakes 113.3 Other destinations
• Eastern Thrace (European Turkey) — most Balkan • Gallipoli — site of WWI memorials and 1915 An-
part of the country, both geographically and cultur- zac landing
ally
• Troy — ruins of what was the legendary Trojan War
• Istanbul Province — world-class metropolis Istanbul was fought for
and its environs
• Mt. Uludağ (~2,550 mt) near Bursa is a national
park and the main wintersports resort of Turkey.
• Southern Marmara — from former Ottoman capital
Bursa in the east to Aegean coast dotted with Roman
temples in the west 113.3.1 Islands
• Bozcaada — small island with pleasant architecture,
113.2 Cities streetscape, and a citadel
• Gokceada — deserted Greek villages on a moun-
• Balikesir — an inland city with rail links to Izmir tainous island
299
300 CHAPTER 113. MARMARA (REGION)
• Marmara Islands — archipelago in the middle of the 113.6.1 By air

Sea of Marmara
Atatürk International Airport (IST) in western
• Avsa — sea&sun island frequented by mid- Istanbul is the main gateway for the city, the region, and
class families the country as well. The other international airport in
• Princes’ Islands — a getaway from crowded Istan- the region is Sabiha Gökçen (SAW), situated in eastern
bul featuring pine-covered islands with elegant man- Istanbul, largely preferred by low-cost airlines. Corlu
sions Airport (TEQ) is used by airlines flying from ex-USSR
countries. Other airports in the region are located in
Bursa and Çanakkale.
113.4 Understand
113.6.2 By train
This region gets its name from the sea it surrounds: the
Sea of Marmara, connected to Aegean Sea via Dard- There are trains to
anelles, and to Black Sea via Bosporus. The Sea of Mar-
mara is considered as the geographical border between
• Istanbul from Bulgaria, Greece, and a number of
Europe and Asia: northern coasts of it are in Europe,
other Balkan countries via Edirne.
while southern/eastern coasts are in Asia. In addition to
the Sea of Marmara, the region has coastlines on Black • Istanbul from various central and eastern Turkey
Sea to northeast and Aegean Sea to southwest. locations via Izmit and Eskişehir, as well as from
The northwestern/European part of the region is one of Tehran, Iran.
few wide lowlands in the country, with the occasional
gently sloping hill, except southwestern and northeastern • Bandirma on the southern coast of Marmara from
coasts which are dominated by hilly areas. South and east Izmir.
parts of the region is more mountainous, or hilly at least.
While Marmara Region is second smallest Turkish region
in size (with only Southeastern Anatolia being smaller), it 113.6.3 By bus
is actually only a bit smaller than Ireland or Netherlands
and Belgium combined. All cities and many towns in Turkey has direct daily bus
services to Istanbul. Many cities neighbouring Balkan
This region is Turkey’s most populous and most heavily countries also has bus links to the city. Bursa, by virtue
industrialized part, though you can still find primordial of being a big city, is also served from a large number of
forests hardly seen by human eyes here and there. cities and towns throughout Turkey.
Travellers often overlook Marmara Region except for
Istanbul and a few sites in southwest and southeast of the
region, but there is not really a reason why they should— 113.6.4 By car
in addition to quite friendly and open locals, fairly good
transportation links throughout and temperate climate Marmara Region is well linked to neighbouring regions
which make travelling in the region a breeze, you will and countries by a motorway and highway network.
certainly find something to catch your glimpse in any part
of this region, where empires have made their debut and
have seen their fall, and where dense urban areas and 113.6.5 By boat
farmlands interact with untouched wilderness beautifully.
There is a weekly ferry service to Istanbul from Izmir dur-
ing summer months.
113.5 Talk
While it is possible to come upon a village founded by 113.7 Get around
immigrants from Balkans in early 1900s where old people
speak Pomak dialect of Bulgarian or some other Balkan 113.7.1 By air
language in the region, Turkish is by far the most common
and the most useful language in the region, as is in most While there are more than one airport in the region, given
of Turkey. the region’s relative small size and the relative short dis-
tance between the airports make transportation by plane
practically impossible. The only feasible (and, operating)
113.6 Get in air service totally within the region is between Istanbul
and Çanakkale.
113.12. STAY SAFE 301
113.7.2 By bus 113.12 Stay safe

There is an extensive bus network between towns and
cities of the region, and any town with a considerable 113.13 Go next
population (say, >10,000), has a direct bus service to
Istanbul.
113.7.3 By train
As in the rest of Turkey, the rail network in the re-

gion consists of linear lines rather than a spider web-like
system. The lines with passenger services are between
Istanbul and Edirne (via Corlu and a number of other
towns on the way), continuing on to Bulgaria and Greece;
Istanbul and Bozüyük (via Izmit, Adapazarı, Osmaneli,
Bilecik, and a number of other towns on the way), contin-
uing on to Eskişehir/Ankara in Central Anatolia; and be-
tween Bandirma and Balikesir, continuing on to Aegean
Region.
113.7.4 By boat
There is an extensive network of ferry and fast ferry

lines connecting northern and southern coast of the Sea
of Marmara, cutting travel time dramatically. Most fast
ferry lines fan out of Istanbul towards towns and cities
on the southern coast, while conventional ferries can
be found between almost any town on the northern and
southern coasts (such as Tekirdağ-Gemlik line, which tra-
verses almost the whole sea northwest to southeast).
113.8 See
Being the location which both Byzantine and Ottoman
Empires centred around, Marmara Region has quite a
lot of imperial monuments from each. While Byzantine
monuments are mostly in Istanbul with a number of intact
artifacts in historically important, but nowadays provin-
cial towns such as İznik and Vize. Ottoman monuments,
on the other hand, while can be found almost anywhere in
the region, are best seen in Bursa, Edirne, and Istanbul—
the three consecutive capitals of the empire.
113.8.1 Itineraries
113.9 Do
113.10 Eat
113.11 Drink
Chapter 114
Bursa Province
Bursa Province is in northwestern Turkey.

It’s divided between the following regions:
• Eastern Marmara (Iznik)
• Southern Marmara (Bursa (the provincial capital),

Gemlik)
302
Chapter 115
Eastern Marmara
Eastern Marmara (Turkish: Doğu Marmara) is the Being the cradle of Ottoman Emirate, later to become Ot-
eastern portion of Marmara Region, Turkey. toman Empire, this region is dotted by historical towns
and villages maintaining traditional Ottoman architec-
ture, if a bit weary. North of the region is the Black Sea
115.1 Regions coast with some resort villages largely missed by trav-
ellers, while on the coasts of Lake Sapanca and Lake
İznik, two of the biggest lakes of the vicinity, are a num-
115.2 Cities ber of summer resorts and beaches mostly frequented
by Turkish mid-class families who prefer a milder (and
tamer) alternative to Aegean and Mediterranean coasts.
• Eskihisar — coastal village neighbouring Istanbul.
There are ferry links from here to Yalova across the Most of the region is mountainous, or at least hilly, and
Gulf of Izmit. covered with verdant forests.
• Izmit — biggest city of the region. One of the most

heavily-industrialized cities in Turkey. 115.5 Talk
• Iznik — historical town on the shore of Lake İznik.
Site of first and seventh ecumenical councils (Coun- 115.6 Get in
cils of Nicaea) of early Christianity.
• Osmaneli — town with white washed Ottoman ar- 115.7 Get around
chitecture. Nestled in the valley of Sakarya River,
on the highway south.
115.7.1 By train
• Sapanca — pleasant lakeside town east of Izmit, sur-
rounded by lush forests A railway line coming in from Istanbul, lies west-east
along the northern shore of the Gulf of İzmit and south-
• Yalova — coastal city surrounded by green moun- ern shore of Lake Sapanca and passes through İzmit and
tains. Famous for its hot springs. Adapazarı, where it turns southwards and continues along
the bottom of impressive rocky and wooded Sakarya Val-
ley towards Eskişehir. This is part of the Istanbul–Ankara
railway line, so has the most frequent intervals of passen-
115.3 Other destinations ger trains on any route in the country, at least once ev-
ery two hours 8:30AM-midnight, with the section of the
115.4 Understand line between Istanbul and Adapazarı having even more
frequent departures—which start earlier as well, around
6:30AM.
Eastern Marmara is bordered by Istanbul Province,
Southern Marmara, Central Anatolia, and Western Black
Sea Region to northwest, southwest, south/southeast, and
east respectively. To the north, it occupies part of Turkish 115.8 See
Black Sea coast, while to the west, the Gulf of İzmit, part
of the Sea of Marmara, makes a long indentation into the 115.8.1 Itineraries
region.
Eastern Marmara more or less corresponds to Bithynia 115.9 Do
of ancient times.
303
304 CHAPTER 115. EASTERN MARMARA
115.10 Eat
115.11 Drink
115.12 Stay safe
115.13 Go next
Chapter 116
Eskihisar
116.1.3 By train
Frequent suburban trains (banliyö treni; 1.50 TL pp) de-
part from Haydarpaşa station in Istanbul’s Asian Side
to Gebze, making the route in roughly an hour. From
Gebze station, Eskihisar is about 30 minutes away on
foot. Minibuses may also be available.
However, as of 2013, Gebze station receives no trains
from no directions (and even the tracks themselves are
absent in the station), as extensive rail rebuilding takes
place all around in northwestern Turkey, in preparation
for the high-speed link between Istanbul and Ankara. Ex-
Eskihisar, literally “the old fortress”, which gave the village its pect this to continue at least until 2014.
name
Eskihisar is a pleasant village in Eastern Marmara, on 116.2 Get around

the northern coast of the Gulf of İzmit. Located just east
of the Asian suburbs of almost boundless concrete jungle
that is Istanbul, you are likely only here just to take the 116.3 See
ferry across the Gulf to Yalova side, but, provided you
have some time to spare, you could do worse than stop-
ping by a little.
116.1 Get in
116.1.1 By car
From Istanbul, take D100 highway to east. Follow 'Es-

kihisar' signs once you left the suburbs of Istanbul be-
hind and crossed the provincial boundary of Kocaeli. It
would normally take about an hour from central parts of
Istanbul, but the highway is almost always congested, at Osman Hamdi Bey Museum in Eskihisar
least in parts, unless you are driving between late at night
and just after sunrise.
• Eskihisar Citadel (Eskihisar Kalesi) (northeast of
ferry harbour, on the hill overlooking the sea).
116.1.2 By minibus
• Osman Hamdi Bey Museum (Osman Hamdi Bey
The very frequent minibuses plying the route between Müzesi) (on the waterfront street; very near the ferry
Gebze and Harem, Istanbul’s main bus station on the harbour), ☎ +90 262 655-63-48. Tu-Su 08:30-
Asian Side (and easily connected to Sirkeci in the Old 16:30. A renovated white wooden Victorian man-
City by frequent ferries), may be useful for getting to Es- sion that wouldn't be out of place in the Princes’ Is-
kihisar. lands. Formerly owned by, and dedicated to, Osman
305
306 CHAPTER 116. ESKIHISAR
Hamdi Bey (1842-1910), the founder of the Istanbul

Archaeology Museum and one of the earliest mod-
ern Turkish painters.
116.4 Do
116.5 Buy
116.6 Eat
There are some restaurants on the shore to the left of the
ferry jetty.
116.7 Drink
116.8 Sleep
There are some hotels/guesthouses (pansiyon) in the
streets to the left of the ferry jetty.
116.9 Connect
116.10 Go next
• Your most likely scenario to arrive in Eskihisar to
take the ferries to Topçular near Yalova across the
Gulf of Izmit. Ferries are quite frequent and take
about 40-45 minutes to reach the other side. While
passengers without a vehicle pay 2.80 TL/person,
flat fare for cars is 45 TL one-way, i.e. it is not de-
pendent on how many people are riding in the car.
Larger vehicles pay substantially more.
Chapter 117
Izmit
İzmit is a big and a heavily industrialized city in Marmara Efe Tur and Izmit Tur will generally drop off passengers
Region, Turkey, located east of Istanbul, at the very tip arriving from Istanbul in Izmit’s city center, rather than
of long and narrow Gulf of İzmit, that long indentation of Izmit’s main bus terminal.
the Sea of Marmara towards east. İzmit is the capital of Izmit’s bus terminal is located in the Yahyakaptan neigh-
Kocaeli Province. borhood, which is approx. 2 km away from the city cen-
ter. There are many mini-buses (dolmus) running from
Not to be confused with İzmir, spelled as İzmir Izmit’s main bus terminal to the city center. In addition,
in Turkish, which is the third largest city in the major bus liens (Efe Tur and Izmit Tur) offer free
Turkey and located on the shore of Aegean Sea. shuttle services to the main neighborhoods around Izmit.
It is also possible to travel to or from any major city in
Turkey from Izmit’s main bus terminal.
117.1 Get in
117.1.1 By train 117.2 Get around

Several daily regional expresses connect İzmit with
nearby Istanbul. The average price is about TL 5.50/per- 117.3 See
son. You can also book and buy a seat for long distance
trains that leave Istanbul’s Asian station for other (Asian)
destinations. The cheapest ticket for such a train is TL • Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi) (at downtown). An el-
3.75/person, the rate for Doğu Express. The journey takes egant clock tower dating back to 1901. The clock
about 2 hours between Istanbul and İzmit by rail. tower now has the added feature of a beautiful wa-
terfall and from the garden by the tower you have a
wonderful view of the Gulf of Izmit.
117.1.2 By car
Both highways numbered D100 and O-4/E80 (toll-way) 117.4 Do
which connect Istanbul and Ankara, two biggest cities of
Turkey, pass through or by the city. A drive from Istanbul
should take no more than one hour, especially on the O- 117.5 Buy
4/E80 which is of a better quality and avoids towns which
D100 traverses all the way along.
117.6 Eat
117.1.3 By coach
117.7 Drink
The easiest way to arrive to Izmit is probably by coach.
Multiple private coach (bus) companies schedule regular
journeys from Istanbul’s two major bus terminals (Harem 117.8 Sleep
Otogar on the Asian side, and Esenler Otogar on the Eu-
ropean side). Efe Tur and Izmit Tur (the two main coach
companies operating in Izmit) run buses daily every 15– 117.9 Connect
20 minutes from both bus terminals starting at 7:00 AM
until 10:00 PM. The fair is 10.00 TL from the Harem bus Telephone code of İzmit is 262 (+90 262 when calling
terminal, or 12.00 TL from the Esenler bus terminal. from out of Turkey).
307
308 CHAPTER 117. IZMIT
117.10 Go next
Yalova and Bursa to the southwest; Central Anatolia to
the southeast; Black Sea Region to the northeast.
Chapter 118
Iznik
İznik (pop.~22,000) is a historical town in Eastern Mar- Istanbul Gate (İstanbul Kapı), Lefke Gate (Lefke Kapı),
mara, located on the eastern shore of Lake İznik (ancient Yenişehir Gate (Yenişehir Kapı), and Lake Gate (Göl
Ascanius); east of Bursa. Kapı), providing access to the lake shore, not a town. All
are roughly the same distance away from town square,
which is the intersection of the two major streets of the
118.1 Understand town: Atatürk Caddesi (north-south, between Istanbul
and Yenişehir Gates) and Kılıçaslan Caddesi (east-west,
between Lefke and Lake Gates).
İznik is also famous for its tiles (çini), though much less
so than in the past.
• Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma),

Atatürk Caddesi (very near the town square; next to
Hagia Sophia), ☎ +90 224 757 19 33, fax: +90 224
757 19 33. This official information office provides
free brochures (which include a map) of the town.
118.2 Get in
118.2.1 By minibus
There are minibuses, mostly running on the road follow-
ing the southern shore of the lake, heading to İznik from
Green Mosque all surrounding towns.
İznik, or Nicaea (Latin)/Nikaia (Greek) as known in The minibuses are run by İznik Minibüs ve Otobüsçüler
ancient times, was the site of the both first and seventh Koop. (, ☎ +90 224 757-16-48 (İznik), +90 262 414-
ecumenical councils of Christianity (i.e. First and Sec- 99-49 (Gölcük). ) with 20 min intervals between 8AM-
ond Councils of Nicaea), convened in 325 and 787 re- midnight from Bursa, about an hour intervals between
spectively. Later it served as the capital city of Sul- 7:30AM-9PM from Yalova (except Su when the first de-
tanate of Rum, first Turkic state established in Asia Mi- parture is at 9:10AM; costs 7.50 TL pp as of 2008), and
nor. After the Crusaders of Fourth Crusade captured three times a day (at 10:30AM, 3PM, and 7PM) from
Constantinople and established Latin Empire in 1204, it Gölcük just west of İzmit via Karamürsel.
also served as the capital of Empire of Nicaea, a rump
Byzantine state, for more than 60 years. Despite still
118.2.2 By car
maintaining some traces of its past, the town today has
a somewhat provincial feel to it, and is far from the im- • From Istanbul - you can either take D100 or O-
portance it possessed in history. 4/E80 (motorway/toll-road) east to Izmit, then head
İznik today is still mostly surrounded by ancient walls west there along the southern shore of the Gulf
with four major gates roughly corresponding to the of İzmit to Yalova, or take a ferry -which can
cardinal directions. They are named after the major accommodate cars- to Yalova. Once in Yalova,
town the road exiting through the gate in question leads take D575/E881 highway south to Bursa. After
to. In clockwise order, they are (starting from north): about 30-40 km away from Yalova, you'll arrive in
309
310 CHAPTER 118. IZNIK
Orhangazi. At Orhangazi, you'll notice the junction • Merkez Taksi, Yoncalı Sokak and Atatürk Caddesi
of the secondary road lying on the northern shore of (one block north from town square), ☎ +90 224 757-
Lake İznik (there are İznik/Nicaea signs). From that 51-64.
junction, İznik is about a 30-40 min drive away.
If you choose not to take a ferry to Yalova, you 118.4 See

also have the option of taking the mountainous
road which forks from the main highway about
5 km west of Karamürsel. This road is shorter
than the above route, but curvier.
• From Bursa - Take D575/E881 highway north

to Yalova. Somewhere between Gemlik and
Orhangazi, you'll come across a junction with traffic
lights. On that junction, you'll notice İznik/Nicaea
signs. That road will take you to İznik along the
southern shore of the lake in about 30-40 minutes.
118.2.3 By boat
While there are no boats plying on Lake İznik, when ar- Hagia Sophia
riving from Istanbul in the north, you may take fast ferries
to Yalova to shorten total journey duration.
• Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) (at the town square, in-
tersection of two major streets of the town). While
118.2.4 By train
much smaller in size compared with the cathedral
of the same name in Istanbul, this rectangular, red
The nearest train station is located in Osmaneli, about 30-
brick building built in typical Byzantine style, holds
40 km to the east. Osmaneli lies on the main trunk rail
as much historical importance, if not more, as it’s
line between Istanbul and Ankara, therefore many daily
the site of the seventh ecumenical council of Chris-
trains have a stop at the town.
tianity (i.e. Second Council of Nicaea, in 787).
Minibuses run by İznik Minibüs ve Otobüsçüler Koop (☎ Located in a pleasant small park, the edifice was
+90 228 461-30-30 (Osmaneli). ) connect Osmaneli with converted to a mosque in the early days of Ot-
İznik, six times a day, with two-hour intervals between toman Empire, and after suffering from a fire during
8:30AM-6:30PM, except in winter when the last minibus the turmoil of the 1920s, the place laid in a semi-
departs at 5:30PM from Osmaneli. ruinous state for more than eight decades. After
the long-awaited restoration finally finished, it has
been silently re-dedicated as a mosque by the cur-
118.3 Get around rent Islamist government in 2011, much to the dis-
may of architectural conservationists, tourism pro-
fessionals, and many others, who hoped to see it
İznik is not very big, and lies on a flat ground, so walking
turned into a museum in the fashion of Istanbul’s
around is a viable option. Each of the gates – the most
Hagia Sophia. Free.
distant sections of the town – are about 15-20 minutes at
most on foot from town square – the focal point of the
town. • Green Mosque (Yeşil Cami) (in a little square/park
on the left side when walking towards Lefke Gate
on Kılıçaslan Caddesi, next to the Museum). Built
118.3.1 Taxi in early 14th century, this mosque with its impres-
sive minaret (tower) covered with green-turquoise-
There are also taxi stands around the town for those who blue mosaics and tiles (that’s where the name of the
prefer not to walk, both one block from town square, di- mosque comes from) looks more like earlier Seljuk
agonally across from Hagia Sophia. edifices rather than Ottoman mosques.
• İznik Taksi, Selcuk Sokak and Atatürk Caddesi • Museum (Müze) (in a little square/park on the left
(one block south from town square), ☎ +90 224 757- side when walking towards Lefke Gate on Kılıçaslan
37-37. Caddesi, next to the Green Mosque), ☎ +90 224 757
118.6. BUY 311
10 27. Tu-Su 9AM-noon/1PM-5PM. Housed in- 118.6.1 Tiles

side Nilüfer Hatun imaret (a social security instution
of the past which provided free food for the poor), İznik has been well known for its local faience/tile
built in 14th century. There are also some marble (çini)and pottery tradition since 15th century.
sarcographi, columns, and columnheads dating back Nowadays, designs range from classical/traditional to
to Roman and Byzantine times in its yard. 3 TL. somewhat kitsch to avant-garde. You can see lots of tile
and pottery workshops, which also double as showrooms
• Esrefzade Mosque (Eşrefzade Camii), Kılıçaslan for tiles painted on square ceramics and other products
Caddesi (in a side alley on the left side of the street on sale, in alleys on both sides of Kılıçaslan Caddesi St,
when walking towards Lefke Gate from town square; especially near the Green Mosque/the Museum.
not far from Green Mosque, only a couple streets in
İznik Foundation has revived the art of tiles and pot-
between). A recently built (2007) neighbourhood
tery in the traditional 15th/16th century styles, as well as
mosque with an ancient minaret (tower; when it was
applying contemporary designs and motifs on tiles and
constructed is not exactly known, but likely 16th
tableware. In their showrooms, there is a large choice of
century) decorated with green tiles, in a similar fash-
tiles and household pottery such as bowls, dishware, and
ion with the one of the Green Mosque, except that
vases, hand-painted in the traditional İznik style. Most
the tiles of this one are far less showy than those of
of the production is custom-made, for architectural pur-
the Green Mosque. So, if you have just started your
poses, interior decoration, and private demands.
trip around the town and come across with this one
first, don’t be disappointed and confuse it with Green The design department, headquarters, and export depart-
Mosque. ment of Iznik Foundation are in Istanbul where a larger
collection of products from the Foundation workshops
• City Walls. The town is still mostly enclosed by are displayed and sales take place.
ancient walls, if partially a bit weary. You can
also come across with some slowly crumbling towers • İznik Foundation (İznik Vakfı), Sahil Yolu, Vakıf
here and there. Istanbul Gate (northern gate) and Sokak 13, ☎ +90 224 757-60-25, fax: +90 224 757-
Lefke Gate (the eastern one) are more or less still 57-37.
completely intact and are quite beautiful. Just out-
side the Lefke Gate is an ancient aqueduct running
for some hundreds of metres and eventually disap-
118.6.2 Banks
pearing in the fields out of town.
Most banks are located on either Atatürk Caddesi or
Kılıçaslan Caddesi, usually very near the town square. All
• Candarlioglu Mosque (Çandarlıoğlu Camii) (on are equipped with ATMs on their exterior walls.
the left side of the street when going to the Lake
Gate/waterfront from the town square). Another
recently built (1996) small mosque. An ordinary 118.6.3 Supermarkets
building with nothing fascinating except that it’s
mostly coated with blue/green tiles all over its exte- • BİM, Atatürk Caddesi 108 (a few blocks north from
rior walls, making a quite pleasant sight. It’s directly Kılıçaslan Caddesi, in the direction of Istanbul Gate).
on the street and a bit hidden from view by the sur- 10AM-9PM. One of two İznik stores of national su-
rounding multi-story buildings on both sides, so for permarket chain BİM, where you can find bottled
not passing-by without noticing it, watch the left side water, soft drinks, and snacks on a discounted rate.
of the street while walking. No beer or wine. Credit cards are accepted.
• BİM, Mevlana Sokak 7 (on the 4th or 5th side alley
to the left from the town square when walking east on
118.5 Do Kılıçaslan Caddesi, towards Lefke Gate). Another
BİM store in İznik.
• Take a stroll in the park along the lakefront.
• Dia, Atatürk Caddesi, Ateşoğlu İş Merkezi 101 (one
• Take a dip in the lake. In the summer months the block north of Kılıçaslan Caddesi, diagonally across
water is usually calm and pleasant. There are sev- from Hagia Sophia). A store of another national su-
eral easily identified spots along the lakefront that permarket chain.
are suitable for entering the lake. • Şok, Selçuk Sokak (just off Atatürk Caddesi, one
block south of Kılıçaslan Caddesi, diagonally across
from Hagia Sophia), ☎ +90 224 757 68 68. A store
118.6 Buy of yet another national supermarket chain. For or-
dering by telephone: ☎ +90 224 444 10 44.
312 CHAPTER 118. IZNIK
118.7 Eat camlikmotel.com. Rooms with satellite TV, air-

con, central heating, and en-suite bathrooms. Clean,
• Köfteci Yusuf – İznik İmren, Atatürk Caddesi 73 friendly and right at the lake shore; with an adjacent
(not far from town square; on the right side when restaurant (Çamlık Restaurant). 45 TL/80 TL for a
walking towards Yenişehir Gate from the square), single/double room; breakfast included.
☎ +90 224 757 35 97. This very clean restau-
rant, popular among the locals, serves reasonably • Cem Otel, Mustafa Kemal Paşa Mahallesi, Göl
priced meat-balls (köfte) in various styles, similar Sahili Caddesi 34 (on the waterfront promenade),
to Akçaabat Köftesi of Trabzon. A portion con- ☎ +90 224 757-16-87. Rooms with en-suite bath-
sists of 6 meat-balls and comes with an endless rooms, air-con, TV, wireless internet access. Sim-
basket of toasted bread and barbecued green pep- ple, but clean and pleasant.
pers. There is no written menu (list of dishes),
but as usual in Turkey you can select and order-by- • Kaynarca Hotel, Kılıçarslan Caddesi, Gündem
pointing from the display inside. Vegetarians may Sokak 1, ☎ +90 224 757-17-53, fax: +90 224
try çoban salatası (shepherd’s salad), soğan ızgara 757-17-23, e-mail: kaynarcahotel@hotmail.com.
(plain roasted onion slices), domates ve biber ızgara Rooms with satellite TV, fan (no air-con!), central
(roasted tomatoes and hot green peppers), and piyaz heating, and en-suite bathrooms. They explicitly
(bean salad), though vegans should be aware that the state on their thoroughly wacky website that they do
latter comes topped with some slices of boiled egg. not accept bookings via telephone, fax or e-mail un-
The restaurant has an open-air terrace and a lovely less payment is done in advance. 35 TL/60 TL for
open-air roof on the second floor. Efficient service. a single/double room; 20 TL pp for a dorm room
There is also an order-out service (paket servisi): ☎ of three persons. Cash only, no credit cards are ac-
+90 224 444 61 62. Prices (May 2009): 4 TL a por- cepted. Breakfast for an extra 5 TL.
tion of meat-balls, 2 TL bean salad, soft drinks from
1 TL. A glass of Turkish tea upon finishing the meal
is for free. Credit cards are accepted.
118.10 Connect
• Umut Restaurant, Göl Sahili Yolu (on the water-
front road about 500 metres north of Kılıçaslan Cad- The telephone code of the town is (+90) 224.
desi, next to Cem Otel), ☎ +90 224 757 07 38. This
is one of several fish restaurants on the lakefront,
but unlike most of the others, it also serves beer and 118.11 Go next
wine. The specialty is wels catfish (also called Euro-
pean catfish or sheatfish, Turkish yayın balığı; scien-
tific name Silurus glanis), a tasty fish that is abundant
in the lake, served grilled or fried. Another lake fish
served is carp (Turkish sazan; scientific name Cypri-
nus carpio). Vegetarians can have a salad, various
meze (appetizers) – although only some of these are
vegetarian dishes, and various zeytinyağlılar (veg-
etables cooked with olive oil, typically served cold).
118.8 Drink
118.9 Sleep
• Hotel Aydın, Kılıçarslan Caddesi 64 (on your left
when walking towards lakefront from town square),
☎ +90 224 757-76-50, fax: +90 224 757-76-52,
e-mail: info@iznikhotelaydin.com. Rooms with
en-suite bathrooms, central heating, air-con, wire-
less internet access, and satellite TV. 80 TL/double
room, breakfast included.
• Çamlık Motel, Göl Sahil Yolu, ☎ +90 224 757-13-

62, fax: +90 224 757-16-31, e-mail: info@iznik-
Chapter 119
Osmaneli
Osmaneli, formerly known as Lefke, is a town 119.2.2 By bus

(pop.~13,000) in Eastern Marmara; nestled in the valley
of Sakarya River which connects northwestern Central 119.2.3 By car
Anatolia with the Black Sea coast.
Osmaneli is located on highway D650, which lies be-
tween Adapazari and Bilecik, and eventually connecting
119.1 Understand Istanbul with the southern city of Antalya. From Istanbul,
take D100 or O-4/E80 (motorway/toll-road) east first,
then in Adapazari, quit the motorway and head south via
The town is divided by the highway D650 in two parts:
D650.
Upper part leaning against a hillside is the old town, while
the lower part across the highway is newer, but still mostly
low-rise.
119.3 Get around
119.2 Get in 119.4 See

119.2.1 By train • Traditional architecture. Old town is full of
white-washed two-story houses which maintain tra-
Osmaneli has a train station in the newer part of the town, ditional Ottoman architecture. A brief stroll deep
about 30 minutes away on foot from town centre/old in old town will reveal many details to architecture
town. Most long-distance trains from Istanbul heading enthusiasts.
for central and eastern parts of the country call at Osman-
eli, on various times of the day. Only fastest trains oper- • Church (Kilise) (on the top of the hill overlooking
ating between Istanbul and Ankara, such as Başkent or old town, walk towards the streets to your left side
Cumhuriyet Express, passes by the station without a halt. after entering a bit deep into the old town). Built in
late 1800s by a Hungarian architect after the whole
town burnt down in a big fire, this church has been
Boarding the train from Osmaneli in disuse since 1920s, when the Greek community
of the town left for Greece when a population swap
Osmaneli train station is staffed only between 8:30AM- was mandated between Greece and Turkey. Not
noon and 1PM-5PM. Although normally you should pay cared for since then, it now ironically looks like a
an extra fine in addition to the fare if you board a train fire victim, although that is not the situation, as its
without a ticket in Turkey, in Osmaneli station, it is ex- all wooden parts such as the gate, windows, and the
plicitly explained that all you have to pay is the normal roof are gone, although its stone structure is still as
ticket price to the conductor inside the train when board- splendid as it used to be, with crosses still visible
ing a train calling at the station on non-staffed hours. here and there. Although it was built for the Greek
So don’t worry if you see the ticket window completely Orthodox, it more resembles Protestant cathedrals
locked up when arrived at the station. However, have of Central Europe, presumably because of the ori-
some cash in Turkish Lira with you, as the conductor will gin of its builder. There is a talk of converting it into
not be able to process credit cards or foreign currency. a cultural centre for the town.
If you are heading for Istanbul and intend to take trains
coming from eastern Turkey, such as Doğu or Güney Ex-
press – which are also the cheapest options, expect them 119.5 Do
to be late for several hours.
313
314 CHAPTER 119. OSMANELI
119.6 Buy
• Dia (on the corner of the highway and the street
which is the main entrance of old town). 10AM-
9PM. National supermarket chain Dia has a store
in Osmaneli, where you can find bottled water, soft
and alcoholic beverages, snacks, and fresh fruit on a
discounted rate. Credit cards are accepted.
119.7 Eat
119.8 Drink
119.9 Sleep
119.10 Connect
The telephone code of the town is (+90) 228.
119.11 Go next
• İznik, another historical town in the region, is about
30 km to west from Osmaneli. Six minibus ser-
vices every day, with two-hour intervals between
8:30AM-6:30PM connect the town with İznik.
Chapter 120
Yalova
Yalova is a city in Marmara Region, Turkey. It lies to the book this service, you just turn up and pay when you get
south of Istanbul, across the Gulf of Izmit. there. In Topçular, it’s possible to find minibuses heading
for Yalova running on the highway lying just next to the
harbour.
120.1 Get in
120.1.2 By car
120.1.1 By boat
Take the roads numbered: D130 from Izmit (east) and
The quickest and easiest way to get to Yalova from D575/E881 from Bursa (south). There are also car-
Istanbul is to take a fast ferry . Fast ferries operate from ferries from various points in or near Istanbul.
Yenikapı (south of Sultanahmet), the voyage takes 70
minutes and costs 15 TL per person, 12 TL per person
in vehicles, 67 TL for cars and 5 TL for bicycles. Con- 120.1.3 By bus
cessions of about 1-2 TL is available for students and
for those who buy their tickets online through İDO's (the Busses connect Istanbul, Bursa, and most other cities to
ferry operator) website, as are early booking discounts. Yalova. Kamil Koç and Yalova Seyahat have the most
frequent and reliable service.
Fast ferries also operate from Pendik, a suburb of Istan-
bul on the Asian Side, with a shorter voyage duration of
40 minutes. Sea-buses run from Kartal also on the Asian
Side and similarly take about 40 minutes, but run less fre-
120.2 Get around
quently.
Yalova is a small city and for the most part very walkable.
In the warm months, Gazi Paşa Caddesi is very popular
for strolling with tourists and locals alike. To get to Gazi
Paşa Cad. from the İDO terminal, go straight along Yali
Cad. towards town, and cross directly over the large in-
tersection at Heykel.
Like most small Turkish cities, Yalova has a mini-bus sys-
tem. Yalova’s dolmuşes are light blue or hot pink and
run from the most important sites in the city, primarily
along Atatürk Caddesi and Fatih Caddesi. Noteworthy
stops include: Yalova Yeni Terminal (bus station/otogar),
İDO (ferry terminal), Heykel (merkez/city center), and
Termal. Stops can be requested at any time directly from
the driver. Rides cost 1.75 TL, or 1.50 for students.
Taxis are also readily available, especially from the İDO
Departing from Yalova Tureky, toward Yenikapi, with IDO
station.
There is a cheaper ferry line between Eskihisar just east
of Istanbul and Topçular, about 30 km to east of Yalova.
These ferries take about 45 minutes to cross the Gulf of 120.3 See
Izmit and in 2010 it costs 45 TL for a car and 55 TL for
a minibus, free for passengers within the car. Passengers Yalova has a few tourist attractions, including the
without a vehicle pay 2.80 TL per person. You cannot Yürüyen Köşk, an Ottoman-Turkish style mansion that
315
316 CHAPTER 120. YALOVA
Termal’s public swimming pool
was used by Atatürk, the founder of the modern Turkey,

during his visits to the city. This mansion has a legend
connected to it. It is often referred to as the 'walking
house' because, as the legend goes, Atatürk believed the
mansion was too close to a beautiful tree, so he ordered
the mansion to walk. The house did just that, and moved
3 km down the waterfront to its current resting place (of
course, with the help of rail system built underneath the waterfall and leaves
building).
Termal is a beautiful area in the hills outside of Yalova
(minibuses head there from the city for 2.50 TL). There “Eye of the Tiger” punching machines, ride the gondola
are (as the name suggests) thermal hotsprings here— or play air hockey at the Lunapark. Farther down the
accompanied by hammams, a large public swimming road, race Go-Karts and see the 1999 Yalova Earthquake
pool and hotels galore. Many 3 and 4 star hotels have memorial.
recently opened in Termal city, and there are a number Take an inter-city dolmush to Çınarcık to party in rowdy
of restaurants that cater to the tourists who flock there in nightclubs and swim on clean, private beaches.
the summer. Among these are a number of Arab restau-
rants, where you can find some of the only falafels in the
province.
120.5 Buy
Yalova also has a beautiful set of waterfalls--the “Falling
Water Waterfall”, Su Düşen Şelalesi. To get here, take aTo get the best produce, and have an authentic Turkish
mini-bus from Yalova city center to the village Uvezpinar.
bazaar experience, visit Yalova’s bazaar. The bazaar is
Then hire a taxi to drive you the 7 km to the waterfall opposite the ferry terminal on the seafront. (Take dolmuş
site. Though beautiful, it is a very rigorous hike from the
to İDO.) Though a permanent structure, the bazaar is only
village to the falls. open on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. A huge and
Another attraction is the Karaca Arboretum on the way superb selection of very fresh, mainly locally grown fruit
to Termal. and vegetables, plus a good selection of other stalls sell-
ing everything from kitchen utensils to underwear, can
be found here. Surrounding the bazaar, is a maze of
stalls specializing in such things as clothing, housewares,
120.4 Do linens, shoes, lingere, and cheeses. These stalls are open
daily.
Visit Termal’s hot springs. There are many spa services Yalova has most of the (international) chain stores that
offered in the gender-segregated hammam, a swimming can be found throughout Turkey on its cobbled street,
pool for the family, and beautiful woods to hike around Gazi Paşa Caddesi. Stores include Colin’s, LC Waikiki,
in. Polo Assn., FLO, and Mavi. Shopping here is okay, but
Stroll Gazi Pasha Caddesi. Buy a"Corn in a Cup” to variety pales in comparison with what can be found in
munch on as you admire the sea views and people-watch. Bursa or Istanbul. For people who need to do serious
Take a picture with “The Professor"--Hoca--as you pass shopping, it might be worth the ferry or bus ride to better
Sindoman Cafe. Test your strength at one of the many malls.
120.10. GO NEXT 317
120.6 Eat on that of Carlsbad of Czech Republic). On the way

to Termal, you may also check out Karaca Arbore-
Yalova Sutlusu--Yalova’s specialty dessert, this is a tum if it’s a weekend.
milky, coconut-infused baklava. Can be bought at most • Armutlu on the southern side of the peninsula is also
baklavacis on Yali or Cumhuriyet Caddesis. a town known for its hot springs and resort atmo-
Balim & Tadim has Gazipasha Caddesi’s best ice cream. sphere.
There are also many tea gardens along the shore where
you can relax with a cup of cay, and play a few rounds of • Bursa lies some hundred kilometers south. A bus
backgammon. ride there takes around an hour and costs 12 TL pp.
Order a balık ekmek (a fish sandwiched inside half a

bread) from the floating balıkcı who will fish your food
right out from under his shop, on the small river that runs
through town.
Though Bursa is famous for inventing Iskender Kepab,
you can find excellent Yalova knock-offs at Kervan, or
Divan Kepab.
120.7 Drink
Bars are few and far-between in this small Turkish town.
Go to Keyif Pub, Sindoman, or BabyLion, all on Gazi-
pasha.
For a raki night, go to Divan Kebap, Acalar or Sandal
Balık.
If you really want to party, go to Çınarcık.
120.8 Sleep
Yalova has several small hotels, and in the summer, most
of Gazipasha Caddesi’s apartment buildings are rented
out to visiting foreigners (especially Arabs).
Yalova’s classiest hotel in the city center is Hotel Karot,
but for a truly luxurious experience, stay at the Limak
Termal Boutique Hotel in Termal.
120.9 Connect
The telephone code of Yalova is 226 (+90 226 when call-
ing from out of Turkey). It used to be 216 prior to late
1990s, so old guidebooks may say so, which is not useful
any more.
120.10 Go next
• Çınarcık nearby is a popular family vacation resort
with a night scene in the summer.
• Termal to the south is one of Turkey’s oldest hot

spring resorts (which dates back to Romans, last
time it was renovated was 1930s with a design based
Chapter 121
Eastern Thrace
Eastern Thrace (Doğu Trakya in Turkish, although al- • Kıyıköy — still widely known by its traditional name
most always called simply Trakya, i.e. Thrace) consti- of Midye among locals, this is a town with many tra-
tutes the European part of Turkey and forms the north- ditional wooden houses, preserved city walls, and a
western edge of the country. monastery carved into rocks
• Vize — town on the foothills of Istranca Moun-

tains not very far from Black Sea coast, known for
121.1 Provinces its Byzantine cathedral-turned-mosque called Little
Hagia Sophia
• Çanakkale Province (partially)
• Edirne Province
121.2.2 Thracian Plains
• Kırklareli Province
Gently rolling plains covering the interior of the region;
• Tekirdağ Province with towns, most of which have some artifacts dating
back to the Ottoman period, lying on the major routes
Geographically, the western half of Istanbul Province is between Istanbul and Europe
also part of Eastern Thrace.
• Babaeski — a town with an old mosque and a me-
dieval bridge spanning a creek flowing through a
121.2 Cities tranquil, green meadow
• Çerkezköy — a city with much industry

121.2.1 Istranca Mountains and Black Sea
coast • Çorlu — the newly emerging major city of the re-
gion, with even more industry
• Edirne — the second capital of the Ottoman Em-

pire, chock full of history; even the Selimiye
Mosque alone is well worth the trip to this beauti-
ful city
• Keşan — a city in the western part of the region,

near the Greek border; located on an important
crossroad
• Kırklareli — a city in the north, near the Bulgarian

İğneada
border, with a quite well preserved old quarter full
of traditional wooden and neo-classical architecture
Lush mountains, lakes, and desolate beaches
• Lüleburgaz — the geographical center of Eastern
• Demirköy — a town surrounded by forests up in Thrace with a sixteenth century mosque and accom-
Istranca Mountains, known for its 15th century panying covered bazaar
foundry
• Uzunköprü — the name of which translates “the
• İğneada — long and sandy beaches where you'll have long bridge” in Turkish, this town has one of the
a hard time seeing someone else in the next kilome- longest stone bridges in anywhere nearby (more than
tre, bakced by lush forests, and many lakes a kilometre across), built in the 15th century
318
121.4. UNDERSTAND 319
121.2.3 Marmara and Aegean coasts 121.3.1 Islands
Miles of beaches, stony and sandy, crowded and lonely • Gökçeada (Imbros) — the largest Turkish island,
alike; fishing towns, vineyards, and pine forests here and home of a Greek community and abandoned villages
there
• Marmara Island — although nearer to Asian main-
land, this island has extensive transportation and cul-
• Eceabat — main town on Gallipoli Peninsula, serv- tural links with Eastern Thrace; site of a marble
ing as a hub to WWI memorials quarry with unfinished Roman sculptures and pic-
turesque villages
• Enez — a small town on the Maritsa delta, where
Maritsa River empties into the Aegean Sea; a quite
well-preserved Byzantine citadel and long sandy 121.4 Understand
beaches are the main attractions
• Gelibolu — historical town on the Straits of Dard- Eastern Thrace is located in the northwestern corner of
anelles, at the base of the peninsula known by the Turkey and makes up 3% of the country’s landmass. Al-
same name (Gallipoli) though this percentage might seem small at first, Eastern
Thrace is only slightly smaller than whole of Belgium, for
• Kumbağ — main nightlife spot of Eastern Thrace, example.
with some kitschy bars and (overcrowded) beaches Eastern Thrace is essentially a peninsula surrounded
by Greece (Western Thrace) and Bulgaria (Northern
• Marmara Ereğlisi — site of ancient city of Thrace) to the west and north respectively and bouded
Perinthos, once administrative centre of the region, by Black Sea, Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara, Dard-
now a small town anelles, and the Aegean Sea to the northeast, east, south,
and southwest respectively.
• Şarköy & Mürefte — these pleasant towns are at the
centre of the wine country of the region, with nice Central parts of Eastern Thrace are dominated by Thra-
beaches and some Greek architecture left from the cian plains, which are fairly...well, plain. These plains
former inhabitants produce much of the country’s wheat and sunflower, and
a ride through in sunflower season (July) is indeed very
• Silivri — a town rapidly changing into a suburb of pleasant amongst yellow flowers. However, being one of
Istanbul the powerhouses of Turkish economy, more east you go
on the plains, less agricultural the landscape becomes—
• Tekirdağ — pleasant coastal city with some tradi- around Çerkezköy and north, west, and east of Çorlu is es-
tional wooden architecture, and where 18th century sentially nothing other than urban conglomeration going
Hungarian independence leader, Ferenc Rakoczi II, hand in hand with endless rows of factories. Northeast-
was exiled ern coast and its adjacent area, on the other hand, is dom-
inated by low-lying range of Istranca Mountains covered
with lush broadleaf forests, typical of Turkish Black Sea
Geographically speaking, the city of Istanbul is also par- coast, as well as the northern reaches of the region along
tially in Eastern Thrace, but culturally it is a world afar the Bulgarian border. Southwestern parts dominated by
and should be considered as a region on its own. Ganos and Koru Mountains, another low lying mountain
range, and Gallipoli Peninsula are covered mostly with
pine forests, in addition to vast vineyards on the foothils
121.3 Other destinations of Ganos Mountain, which supply almost half of Turkey’s
wine production.
• Dupnisa Cave — deep in the forest on the Istranca Culture of today’s Eastern Thrace shares many similari-
Mountains, an impressive and easily visitable cave ties with cultures of Balkan (Southeastern Europe) coun-
with an underground creek, stalactites, and bats tries as much of the region’s population is descendants
of people who immigrated from those countries starting
• Gallipoli — site of 1915 Anzac landing and many from late 1800s to the date.
WWI memorials; in the southwest of the region Eastern Thrace is a part of Marmara Region.
• Saros Bay — an indentation of Aegean Sea between

Thracian mainland and Gallipoli peninsula, popular 121.4.1 History
among scuba divers as this gulf is one of the cleanest
and liveliest (in terms of marine ecology) bodies of Thracians, an ancient people speaking an Indo-
water in all of Turkey European language and whom the larger area surround-
320 CHAPTER 121. EASTERN THRACE
ing the region was named after (which derived from the oceanic climate, typical to other areas of Turkish Black
Thracian Zrayka) were the native folk of the region. Ex- Sea coast. Climate of areas on Marmara and Aegean
cept a brief period during Odrysian Kingdom (5th–3rd coasts is similar to the Mediterranean climate, though
century BC), these warrior tribes never formed a united strong winds carry continental influences easily down to
nation. Except for landmark-ish tumulii, which they coast, making it much colder than it might be, considering
erected for their nobles as monumental tombs, not much its fairly southern latitude.
other than some ruins and artifacts hardly distinguishable In general, no matter where you are heading in the region,
from natural formations by untrained eyes is left physi- consider these facts when planning your trip:
cally from this period, although some villages and rivers
across the region still carry names that are phonetically
corrupted forms of their original Thracian names. • It can rain in any season, including summer, but
summer showers tend to last no more than 15–20
Around 4000 BC, Greek colonists from Aegean Islands minutes, no matter how heavy they may be (and they
made their debut in the region along the Marmara coast, tend to be heavy). Other than sudden cloud forma-
although never succeed to penetrate much inland due to tions before showers, it tend to be sunny throughout
opposition of vicious Thracian tribes. Some of the cities the summer, though.
Greeks founded in the region still exist to this day, such
as Tekirdağ. • Haze and (sometimes very heavy) fog is common in
autumn, especially in November.
Around 335 BC, Alexander the Great—part of army
of whom was actually consisted of Thracian troops— • Winters are cloudy, mostly rainy (or perhaps,
showed up in the region on his way to India. sleety), cold and windy in the region—it’s no won-
It was the Romans—who took over the region around der that ancient Greeks considered Thrace to be
the early years of Christ—who first truly united the re- the homeland of Boreaus, the god of cold north-
gion into a single authority and named it the province ern winds. While the temperature usually does not
of Thracia. Since the region was on the main route drop below −10°C (although there is a record low
(named Via Egnatia) between the later Roman capital of −24°C in 1940s infamous for their cold), it feels
of Constantinople and Rome, the other major city of the much colder than it actually is, due to the high-ish
empire, it never fell into a backwater status. relative humidity in the region. It snows every win-
ter, too, and it stays on the ground for at least a few
After the Roman Empire was divided in two, Eastern days—more in inland locations than the coast, as ex-
Thrace consecutively changed hands between Bulgarian pected.
Kingdom and Byzantine Empire, or Eastern Roman
Empire, several times in 10th century CE.
Ottoman Turks set foot in around 1350s for the first time 121.5 Talk
in Thrace (and in Europe). Eastern Thrace was mainly
the warehouse and breadbasket of the imperial capital of
Turkish is the language of choice in the region, as else-
Constantinople during this period in addition to its strate-
where in Turkey. The local dialect is loaded with slang
gic importance stemmed from the fact that it lies on the
and other colloquially used words mainly originating from
major routes between the capital and its European pos-
other Balkan languages (mainly Bulgarian), but this won’t
sessions.
be a problem if you can speak Turkish as local folk mostly
During the turmoil before, during, and after WWI, local avoid using them (or “translate” them into standard Turk-
Greeks and Bulgarians, who had hitherto formed a sub- ish) when they see you’re non-local. Also, the local di-
stantial part of region’s population, emigrated to Greece alect is one of the most similar dialects to standard Turk-
and Bulgaria respectively, and were replaced by Turk- ish (which is based on Istanbul dialect).
ish/Muslim immigrants, mostly from Greece and Bul-
The most frequent foreign language is English. The fact
garia, but also from other Balkan countries. The 1950s
that thousands of immigrants from Bulgaria settled in the
also saw a Jewish emigration from the region towards
region in the late 1980s/early 1990s means that finding
newly-founded Israel.
someone who speaks fluent Bulgarian is also a possibility
(albeit somewhat remote).
121.4.2 Climate
While being not a very large region, Eastern Thrace has 121.6 Get in
a variety of different climate types that lie close to but
are substantially different from each other. Inland areas There are four border posts with Bulgaria (one rail, oth-
have temperate continental climate that is similar to that ers highway) and three border posts with Greece (one rail,
found in inland regions of Balkans, while milder climate others highway), most of which are located on the banks
of places on the Black Sea coast resembles more of an of Maritsa River (Turkish: Meriç, Greek: Evros), which
121.8. SEE 321
forms most of the Greco-Turkish border. The major ones road numbers of main highways of the region and the no-
are Dereköy north of Kırklareli (highway crossing into table towns and cities located along:
the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast), Kapıkule west of Edirne
(known as Kapitan Andreevo on the other side of the • D100: Istanbul – Silivri – Corlu – Luleburgaz –
border, highway crossing into Central Bulgaria, which Babaeski – Edirne to Bulgaria
can have quite long queues in summer), Uzunköprü (rail-
way crossing into northeastern Greece) and İpsala west • O-3/E80 (toll-road) follows more or less the same
of Keşan (highway crossing into northeastern Greece). route with D100 except that it avoids city and town
There are trains and buses crossing any of these border centres, only providing exits to them.
posts.
• D110/E84 after splitting from D100 near Silivri:
The region is also well connected to Istanbul by high- Marmara Ereglisi – Tekirdag – Keşan to Greece (as
ways and a motorway (toll-road), buses and trains. It’s D110/E90)
even possible to find a direct bus from Istanbul to a vil-
lage well off-the-beaten-path. Please note that all trains • D550/E87 after splitting from D100 near Edirne:
to the region departs at European station (Sirkeci) of Is- Uzunkopru – Keşan – Gallipoli to Çanakkale (as
tanbul, not Haydarpasa, the Asian one D550/E87/E90)
There are two international airports in the region:
• D555/E87 after splitting from D100 near Babaeski:
Ataturk Airport of Istanbul and Corlu Airport (though
Kirklareli to Bulgaria
Corlu Airport is reserved for flights from ex-Soviet coun-
tries only).
All roads in the region, even those leading to far away
There is also a substantial number of ferries connect- villages, are sealed, although pavement quality and road
ing towns and cities located on the southern and northern breadth varies according to how important and busy the
(Thracian) coasts of the Sea of Marmara. road is.
121.7 Get around 121.7.4 By thumb

The major crossroad with traffic lights near Keşan is
121.7.1 By bus/minibus probably number one hitchhiker’s paradise in the region
as there are major roads leading to all cardinal directions
All cities in the region are connected to each other by bus, there, and all vehicles have to stop (or at least slow down)
and smaller towns have minibus connections to nearby because of traffic lights. And there are lots of vehicles,
bigger towns and cities. day or night. And as a bonus, there is a huge supermarket
nearby to replenish the supplies. It’s even possible to get
There are also many (relatively) long-haul inter-town dol-
a lift all the way to Ukraine or Italy or Iran there (judging
muş lines in the region started recently, such as between
from the plate numbers of the trucks).
Keşan and Çerkezköy via Tekirdağ and Çorlu or between
Gelibolu and Silivri, via Tekirdağ and Marmara Ereğlisi.
These are faster and slightly more expensive than buses.
121.8 See
121.7.2 By train • This region was important during Ottoman times,
both because it was Istanbul’s hinterland, and also
The only line out of Istanbul’s European station (Sirkeci) because it was on the road between Istanbul, em-
splits into two near Babaeski, one of them continues to- pire’s capital city, and the European possessions of
wards Bulgaria and the other one towards Greece, there is the empire. Therefore almost all towns and cities
at least one daily train (both local and international) op- in the region has an important landmark, such as
erating in each line. As the railline wasn’t laid down as a bridge, an inn, or a mosque (or sometimes all of
straight as the highways, train journeys take more time them) built by Sinan, the famous Ottoman architect
than bus/car travel. of 16th century. Be sure to check them out.
• The Tumulii (sing. tumulus), ancient Thracian

burial mounds for their kings and nobles. These are
121.7.3 By car man-made hills all over the region.
The main highways of the region radiate out of Istanbul • Dolmens and related menhirs which date back to
and generally follow a straight line towards Greek and paleolithic. Scattered around the area to the north
Bulgarian borders, and Aegean Sea. Here is a list of the of Edirne, near Lalapaşa and Süleoğlu.
322 CHAPTER 121. EASTERN THRACE
121.8.1 Itineraries no matter how different their Turkish names are from
their native or English counterparts. Some such as
Burgaz or Sofya are close enough to their native/English
121.9 Do spellings, as if there just have been a spelling error on
the sign, but what is Yunanistan? And which direc-
• Do a wine-tasting trip in the Şarköy - Mürefte area tion on Earth is Greece? Don’t get your eyes weary
(SW of Tekirdağ). Some tour companies based in by looking for ‘Greece’ or ‘Bulgaria’ on the signs, here
Istanbul offer such day-trips in autumn (fall). You is a short list of what you should look for instead
can also organize a trip by yourself if you have a car (and what you will see commonly on the roads towards
at your disposal. Many factories in the area accept the border) (Turkish names written in italics, English
walk-in wine-tasters for a token fee. names in parentheses): Yunanistan (Greece), Batı Trakya
(Western Thrace), Gümülcine (Komotini), Dedeağaç
• Should you have a chance, don’t miss to attend a
(Alexandroupolis), Selanik (Thessaloniki), Bulgaristan
traditional wedding feast (düğün), especially in the
(Bulgaria), Burgaz (Burgas), Sofya (Sofia)… And hudut,
villages, where beer, raki, and wine flow like rivers.
which you will see frequently on signs counting down the
This region has one of the most colourful wedding
distance as well as on the directional signs, means ‘bor-
ceremonies in Turkey, with Balkan tunes. No need
der’. One hint: All place names out of Turkey, as well
to be invited.
as the names of the border posts, are written over a yel-
low or brown band on otherwise normally blue or green
highway signs (but keep in mind that the same yellow or
121.10 Eat brown signs are also used for places of historical and/or
touristical interest, too).
Tekirdağ and Uzunköprü in the region are known for their
local meat-balls (köfte), while Edirne is known for its
fried liver (ciğer). The region, surrounded by three seas
and fragmented by riverbeds, also offers many different
kinds of fish.
Necatiye village, on the highway (D100) from Istanbul to
Edirne (exact location: west of Babaeski, east of Havsa),
is known for its own brand of ice-cream, known as Nedo
(shortened form of Necatiye Dondurması, i.e. “Necatiye
ice-cream”) which is said to draw its taste from the local
flora which the local cows are fed on. The shop where
producers sell the ice-cream is in the west exit of the vil-
lage (there is a nedo sign), with a lovely garden where you
can enjoy the ice-cream next to a little stream. Nice place
to take a break. They sell a really big chunk of ice-cream
cheaper than the big cities.
121.11 Drink
This region provides much of Turkey’s wine and raki pro-
duction and a considerable percentage of beer produc-
tion. Don’t forget to check out local brands (although
most of them are available almost everywhere in Turkey
–except wine).
121.12 Stay safe
121.13 Go next
Drivers should be aware that all place names on high-
way signs are written in Turkish, as elsewhere in Turkey.
These include the place names out of Turkey, too,
Chapter 122
Çerkezköy
Çerkezköy is a city in Eastern Thrace. press now connects Bonn in Germany with Çerkezköy.
It’s a convenient way of bypassing the narrow highways in
the Balkans. The train departs from Bonn-Beuel station
122.1 Understand every Saturday at noon, arriving two nights later during
the afternoon. Fares start at €139 for passengers, cars at
€279.
Started its life as a village for Circassian refugees in 1800s
(hence the name Çerkez-köy, which literally means “Cir-
cassian village”), the population of today’s Çerkezköy 122.2.2 By bus and minibus
is a mix of typical Thracian locals who are mostly de-
scendants of Balkan emigrants who settled in the area in Çerkezköy is connected to Istanbul by hourly buses,
late 1800s/early 1900s and much more recent immigrants which takes around an hour.
from central and eastern Turkey.
An extensive network of minibuses and dolmuş minibüses
Çerkezköy today is a rapidly growing city of drab apart- connect Çerkezköy with surrounding towns and cities of
ment blocks, surrounded by a diverse range of industries. Tekirdağ (1h 25min, 9 TL) and Çorlu to south, and Saray
You will have a hard time for finding a reason to spend and Vize to north.
time more than absolutely necessary in this place.
In local slang, Çerkezköy is simply known as Çerkez,
though without giving much thought to its original mean- 122.2.3 By car
ing.
A motorway, branching off the main O-3/E80 (toll road),
connect the city with Istanbul and Edirne and ends al-
122.2 Get in most at the city centre. Another well surfaced highway
up to motorway standards connect with Çorlu to south
and a narrower but still well surfaced one with Saray in
122.2.1 By train the north.
Çerkezköy’s railway station, which lies around two kilo-

meters east of city centre, welcomes three trains from
Istanbul's Sirkeci station daily: A morning train depart- 122.3 Get around
ing 8:30AM which continues to Uzunköprü on the Greek
border, another one leaving Sirkeci at 3:50PM and con-
tinuing to Kapıkule on the Bulgarian border via Çorlu and
122.4 See
Edirne while the third train has its terminus in Çerkezköy
and departs 6PM. A train trip from Istanbul takes a little 122.5 Do
more than two hours.
From Europe, the daily Bosphorus Express overnight
service departs Bucharest's Gara de Nord station at 122.6 Buy
12:13PM. It also calls in Sofia at 6:55PM where a carriage
from Belgrade (departure time 7:50AM in the morning
the same day) is attached. The train arrives in Çerkezköy 122.7 Eat
during the early morning hours the next day on its way to
Istanbul.
122.8 Drink
Also, a once-weekly motorail train by EuroTurk Ex-
323
324 CHAPTER 122. ÇERKEZKÖY
122.9 Sleep
122.10 Connect
Area code of Çerkezköy is (+90) 282.
122.11 Go next
Chapter 123
Çorlu
Çorlu (pronounced CHOR-loo) is a rapidly growing in- minute during daytime) minibuses to downtown depart-
dustrial city in Eastern Thrace, Turkey with more than ing from or calling at the bus stop on the street next to it.
200,000 inhabitants. Administratively, Çorlu is a town A leisurely stroll takes only about 20 minutes to central
(ilçe) under the Tekirdağ province (il), despite having a square from otogar, though, so that’s an option too if you
larger population than Tekirdağ. don't have a heavy backpack.
Since the city terminal cannot handle all the bus traffic
most buses stop at Orion Mall crossroad. If you need to
arrive this (eastern) part of the city, you need not to go to
123.1 Get in the terminal (otogar).
123.1.1 By bus
123.1.2 By train
Buses from Istanbul. They depart at about any time (ex-
cept late at night), costing 12 TL. İstanbul Seyahat (tel There are two daily trains from Istanbul’s Sirkeci Sta-
444 59 59, dialed without a prefix anywhere in Turkey, tion (one departing at 8:30AM and the other at 3:50PM)
except cell phones from which +90 212 444 59 59 should which call at Çorlu station, which is situated about 5 km
be dialed) is one of the bus companies connecting Corlu west of city (transportation to the city centre is possible
with Istanbul. by minibuses which depart from right in front of the sta-
tion; they can be found waiting passengers at every train’s
There are minibuses run by Elbirlik Koop., leaving on arrival time). Corresponding trains from Edirne in the
fixed hours (about every 15 minutes between 6:30AM and west to Istanbul also call at the station.
9PM daily) from nearby coastal city of Tekirdağ, which
cost 6 TL pp and take around 30 minutes. A twice-daily service from Tekirdağ started recently as
well. While the train ride itself is a bargain (2 TL pp—
There are also minibus taxis (dolmuş taksi) which start less than half of what you'd pay to minibus), with the sta-
from near the army base in the centre of town. These tions at both ends of the line being quite away from re-
offer an express service to the surrounding towns, the spective city centres means that it’s not as convenient as
coastal villages, Tekirdağ, Edirne, and even Istanbul, for intertown minibuses, and when the fares for connecting
not much more than the bus. The downside is that the minibuses to/from the city centres added, it’s not partic-
times tend not to be fixed—the taxi leaves when it is full. ularly cheap, either.
The buses go to the main otogar in Istanbul, although you
can specify a through ticket, which will mean (for a small
surcharge) you can be dropped on the Asian side, usually 123.1.3 By plane
in Uskudar or Kadikoy. Small service buses also offer
free transfers to main routes from either the bus station There is also an international airport nearby (about 15
or the bus company’s office. In terms of time, it takes km east of city centre, IATA: TEQ). However, as a com-
around 2 hours to the main Istanbul bus station when it mercial airliner, only AnadoluJet operates in this airport,
is busy, another half hour to either cross Istanbul to the offering flights from Ankara.
Asian side or to get to Ataturk airport, and perhaps an-
other hour to transfer from there to the new airport, Istan-
123.1.4 By car
bul Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (IATA: SAW) ,
on the Asian side. Corlu is conveniently located on highways D100 and O-
Çorlu’s tiny bus station/otogar (especially when consider- 3/E80 (motorway/toll-road) which link Istanbul with Eu-
ing the size of the city it serves) lies at the western edge of rope. There are also secondary roads from other direc-
the city centre, with very frequent (more than once every tions.
325
326 CHAPTER 123. ÇORLU
It takes just over an hour to get to Istanbul which is 100 123.5 Buy
km away, although this can be doubled during busy times.
Textile fabrics which are produced in factories located
around the city. Some factories have a sale shop. There
123.2 Get around is also an outlet stores complex named Avantaj lo-
cated about 15 km north of the city (on the highway to
Çerkezköy), which also offers tax-free shopping oppor-
Cheap minibuses (a.k.a dolmuş) (which costs around 1.50
tunities.
TL per people from one edge of the city to the other,
i.e. a trip of 25–30 minutes) ply the route along the main There is also a shopping mall named Orion at the east-
road in and out of town (Ataturk Boulevard, Atatürk Bul- ern end of the city, on the highway to Istanbul. Many
varı, which skirts the southern edge of city centre). Since minibuses head there from city centre.
2011, there are also buses on the same routes—run by the
Çorlu Municipality (Turkish: Çorlu Belediyesi, which you
will see on buses). The fare on the municipality buses are 123.6 Eat
cheaper than minibuses (around 0.90 TL) provided that
you have a magnetic bus card. Cash payment option is
also possible on the bus, however a bit more expensive 123.7 Drink
(~1.50 TL). Most buses stop running after midnight but
minibuses do not have a stable schedule. • Tea in the municipality tea garden, in the centre of
The centre is flat, very compact and walkable. Omurtak town. It has a sleepy atmosphere, a reserved family
Caddesi, two blocks north of Atatürk Bulvarı is the main enclosure where no one will disturb you, and is the
drag of the city centre. cheapest cuppa in town. You can also chat to the
friendly locals, who come from all over Turkey.
One might be tempted to cycle around the city, since it
is flat. However, like the rest of Turkey, motorists do not • Bars: There are small sized bars at the city center:
yield or respect motorcyclists, let alone cyclists. If one re-
• On Kumyol cad. (south of Omurtak cad.):
ally has to cycle around the city or between the surround-
most bars here are western style
ing villages then one has to keep on the safety lane (wher-
ever available) with extreme caution and always yield for • On Abidin Efendi sok. (north of Omurtak
the motorists. Else there can be dire consequences. cad.): these are mostly “beer-house"s—not
western style—where they play Turkish mu-
sic, almost always frequented by men, limited
beverage selection etc.
123.3 See
There are surely various bars/beer-houses outside of the
Çorlu has very little in terms of sights to pursue as once- center with lower prices and special offers. It is best to
elegant old town landscape of mostly wooden houses were visit those with a local. Almost all bars close by 1 or 2
knocked down in favour of soulless concrete blocks due A.M.
to urbanization pressures.
• Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii) (at the 123.8 Sleep

central square, downtown). While not an architec-
tural pearl, this quite small-ish mosque with a sin- • Bormalı Otel, Omurtak Cad. 1, Uğur Mumcu
gle dome atop dating back to 1521 and built by and Parkı yanı (on the main street, about 10 min walk
named after Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magni- west of central square; next to Uğur Mumcu Park),
cifent is one of the very few medieval buildings left ☎ +90 282 652-53-77, fax: +90 282 652-53-77,
intact in the city. Free. e-mail: info@bormaliotel.com. Check-in: 2PM,
check-out: noon. Rooms with satellite TV, air-
con, wireless internet, and en-suite bathrooms. Free
123.4 Do carpark.
Wander around the villages north of the D100, as you

enter Corlu, by bicycle. There are numerous quiet, shady 123.9 Stay safe
spots under trees to have picnics, especially behind the
Emlak Bank housing estate. Please do note that there Northwestern part of the town (off the road to Çerkezköy
are no separate bicycle lanes and the vehicle drivers yield from city centre) includes a district called Kore Mahallesi
absolutely no priority to the bicycle riders. which is exclusively inhabited by Roma people. It is often
123.12. GO NEXT 327
avoided by the locals and travelers are strongly advised not

to venture further into this district.
123.10 Stay healthy

Corlu is a good place to get private medical care. There
is a very reasonable, highly professional private hospital
on Ataturk Boulevard, on the left as you come from Istan-
bul. A range of cheap check ups is available (for around
5 euros each), and there is, conveniently, a good-value 3
star hotel next door. Given Corlu’s compact size and rela-
tive lack of traffic, this is a good place to recuperate after
hard travelling around the region, and get minor ailments
fixed before moving on.
Tap water is never drinkable, so it is best to buy bottled
or demijohn water.
The air (especially in winters) is very polluted. Actually,
the air of Çorlu is one of the most polluted in the country.
123.11 Connect
123.12 Go next
• Edirne — by bus or train
• Tekirdağ — by minibus
Chapter 124
Demirkoy
Demirköy is a town in Eastern Thrace, northwestern 124.4 See

Turkey.
• Iron foundry (Demirköy Dökümhanesi). Dating
back to Byzantine period, and then restored by the
124.1 Understand Ottomans in 1400s, this is the place which lends the
town its name and is where the cannons used in Ot-
toman siege of Constantinople of 1453 (i.e. Fall of
Demirköy, literally “iron village”, is a small town sur- Constantinople) were cast. One of few examples of
rounded by forests up on the lush Istranca Mountains, in medieval industrial heritage in the region, some of
northeastern Thrace, not far from Black Sea coast (which brick towers and stone bases of the buildings are still
lies roughly 25 km to east). intact, despite being totally abandoned since 19th
century. About 3 km out of town.
124.2 Get in
124.5 Do
Demirköy lies on the heavily winding but wide enough
and well surfaced road connecting inland town of
Pınarhisar with İğneada on the Black Sea coast. Sur- 124.6 Buy
rounded by verdant forests all along, a trip along this
stretch of road is highly scenic, especially in spring when
purple rhododendrons are in full bloom along the sides of 124.7 Eat
the road, and in autumn when all the forest is drowned
into gorgeous colours.
124.8 Drink
There is also another road with highly scenic surroundings
from Vize to south, via the village of Sivriler.
Görkey & Berk Turizm operates bus services to the 124.9 Sleep
town from Istanbul, eventually heading to İğneada, six
times daily during summer, four times daily during the
• Arda Otel, ☎ +90 288 681-55-55.
rest of the year. It takes around four and a half hours to
get to Demirköy from Istanbul.
• Demirköy Motel, Orhaniye Mah., Kırklareli Cad-
desi, ☎ +90 288 681-52-13. 24-hr hot water, wire-
• Görkey & Berk Turizm, ☎ +90 212 658-01-65
less connection.
(Istanbul-otogar/main bus station); +90 288 681-50-
93 (Demirköy).
Nearby İğneada, 25 km down the road on the Black Sea
coast, has a wider selection of guesthouses.
There is also a single daily bus connection with Kırklareli
to east.
124.10 Connect
124.3 Get around
Area code of the town is (+90) 288.
328
124.11. GO NEXT 329
124.11 Go next The temperature of the cave ranges between +10 and
17°C year-round, so pack along appropriately.
• İğneada on the Black Sea with its long sandy beach Wet cave is open 15 May-15 Nov 9AM-sunset, while dry
backed by a lush floodplain forest—one of the few cave is open year round 9AM-sunset. 2 TL pp. The sur-
remaining in all of Europe—and a number of lakes rounding forest is a popular weekend retreat for locals,
within the forest, is likely to be your next destination. so can be a little bit crowded especially during spring and
summer months. Basic snacks—such as corn on the cob,
cheese pancake, and grilled sausages—can also be ob-
124.11.1 Dupnisa Cave tained from vendors in the surrounding area during week-
ends.
Perhaps the most fascinating cave in Eastern Thrace,
Dupnisa Cave (Dupnisa Mağarası) lies around 25 km
southwest of Demirköy, deep in the forest. (Take the road
signposted with a brown Dupnisa Mağarası sign, which
branches off at the 15th km of Demirköy-Pınarhisar road,
also with a connection from the centre of Demirköy. Af-
ter about 5 km, you'll pass through the village of village of
Balabanlı, with another somewhat decrepit and semi illeg-
ible sign towards Dupnisa; from this point on the cave is
21 km away. On the way, you will pass through the vil-
lage of Sarpdere, where the road turns into a gravel one,
which lasts for 5 km until Dupnisa.) Opened to tourism
in 2005, though unfortunately at the cost of hundreds of
bats who called there home and part of the bed of under-
ground creek which formed the cave in the first place, it
is pretty much possible to easily visit a 400-mt section of
this 2-km long cave.
The cave has two entrances, with the main one open-
ing to what is called “wet cave” (ıslak mağara or sulu
mağara), due to the underground creek flowing through
here. A 250-mt concrete and siderailed path, in addi-
tion to bright illuminations let visitors to have a smooth
stroll here, without getting their feet wet even with a single
drop of water. This part of the cave is still pretty much in
forming stage, with most vertical surfaces covered with
surreal-looking stalactites. The rest of the wet cave, in
which creek flows all along and some underground lakes
up to 2 metres of depth can be found, is only open to
cavers who know what they are doing.
At the end of the path through the wet cave start the con-
crete stairs—this is the part of the cave that is called “dry
cave” (kuru mağara), and you will inevitably meet some
bats here, just don't panic and don't scare them off. After
a quite demanding walk up for about 150 mt and seeing
some more stalactites, you will reach back to ground level
(actually 30 mt higher in elevation than the entrance of
wet cave). From here, instead of going back in, you may
return by following the waymarked trail through the for-
est to the main entrance, which takes around 15 minutes
on foot.
Ancients used to conduct rituals—involving human
sacrifice—to their most respected god (of wine),
Dionysos (originally Thracian but later came to be known
for his seat at Greek pantheon in the much wider part of
the world) in Dupnisa. There is a theory that the very
name of Dionysos evolved from Dupnisa, or Nyssa, the
other name the cave was known by in ancient times.
Chapter 125
Eceabat
Eceabat (pronounced ay-JAY-ah-baht) is a town on 125.7 Eat

Gallipoli Peninsula in Eastern Thrace, northwestern
Turkey. The town is located just opposite Çanakkale, the
main city of the area, across the Straits of Dardanelles. 125.8 Drink
125.9 Sleep
125.1 Understand
On the northern banks of the Straits of Dardanelles, Ece-
125.10 Go next
abat, pop. around 5,000, is the nearest main town to
WWI battlefields and memorials of Gallipoli Peninsula • Perhaps why you are at Eceabat in the first place is
and serves as the hub to visit there. It also offers some to visit battlefields and war memorials of Gallipoli.
accommodation options for those preferring a quieter and From Eceabat, taking either direction—west or
nearer alternative than Çanakkale. east—will deliver you to the national park, however
the route via west, although more scenic as it lies
along the Dardanelles, is very winding and full of
potholes quite a bit, so it will take a bit longer.
125.2 Get in
• The nearby village of Kilitbahir to south (which
also has ferry links with Çanakkale) is full of pleas-
Eceabat lies on the main Istanbul–Çanakkale highway
ant traditional stone architecture and its impressive
(D100/E80 and D110/E84 between Istanbul and Keşan,
citadel dating back to 15th century is well worth a
and D550/E87 from Keşan onwards), lying around 190
visit.
km away from Istanbul.
In the absence of a bridge spanning the Straits of Dard-
anelles, the town is connected to Çanakkale by quite fre-
quent (and 24-hr) ferries, accepting both passengers and
cars/vehicles.
Since all buses operating between Istanbul and
Çanakkale cross the Straits via Eceabat, it’s possible to
get on one in Istanbul and get off at Eceabat, most likely
at the waterfront where they queue for the ferry.
125.3 Get around
125.4 See
125.5 Do
125.6 Buy
330
Chapter 126
Edirne
• Local Tourism Department of Government (İl

Turizm Müdürlüğü), Talatpaşa Asfaltı 76 (100 mt
away from the corner of Saraçlar Caddesi), ☎ +90
284 225-30-29, fax: +90 284 213-30-76.
• Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma

Bürosu), Hürriyet Meydanı 17, ☎ +90 284
213-92-08, fax: +90 284 213-92-08, e-mail:
edirnetourisminformation@gmail.com.
126.1.1 History
Selimiye Mosque The area around Edirne, thanks to its strategic position
on the major routes towards Istanbul, Bosphorus, and on-
Edirne (pronounced eh-deer-neh, ) is a city in Eastern ward to Asia, is one of the spots on earth that was heavily
Thrace, in northwest Turkey. It lies on the gently rolling fought for—it has been site of no fewer 16 major battles
Thracian plains (much of the city is fairly flat, though) and sieges since the days of Ancient Greeks.
and just east of confluence of Maritsa, Tundzha, and Arda
Edirne’s former name is Adrianople (Hadrianoupolis),
Rivers, known in Turkish as Meriç, Tunca, and Arda, re-
i.e. “City of Hadrianus”, named after the Roman emperor
spectively.
who founded the city on the site of Thracian village of
Uskudama.
126.1 Understand Then in 14th century, Ottomans captured the city and
made it their capital, a situation which lasted until the
Fall of Constantinople. Even after the dynasty moved to
This city can be your first or last destination in Turkey,
Constantinople in mid 15th century, Edirne was one of,
depening on the direction of your itinerary, as it’s located if not the most, important centres of European part of the
on an intersection where borders of three countries meet:
Ottoman Empire, which once extended all the way well
Turkey, Greece, and Bulgaria. Visiting this city is also into Hungary, and still was some sort of semi-capital of
feasible as a long day trip from Istanbul.
the empire, with some sultans even favouring the city over
With the completion of the motorway from Kapıkule, the Istanbul and mumbling (to no avail) about returning the
main borderpost of highways from Europe into Turkey, throne back to the city. Between 1700 and 1750, Edirne
in early 1990s, the city lost much of its trade evolving was the fourth biggest city in Europe, with an estimated
around land based travellers heading east and members population of about 350,000 people.
of Turkish diaspora in Europe heading for their ancestral However things dramatically changed with the beginning
hometowns in their annual visits. Today most of tourism of 19th century and the city suffered heavy depopulation
in the city takes place around daytrippers, Turkish and in the context of Russo-Turkish wars of 1829 and 1878
foreigner alike, from Istanbul and visitors from Balkan when Russians occupied all the way to western suburbs
countries looking for cheap goods in the market. of Istanbul, Balkan Wars of late 19th/early 20th century,
The imperial past is what makes Edirne interesting, from the loss of much of the hinterland and even outer sub-
huge Ottoman imperial complexes to neo-classical archi- urbs to north and west when international borders non-
tecture of downtown shops, although at first sight, all existent before (when all was part of Ottoman Empire)
you’ll see will be concrete apartment blocks when enter- were created close to the city in 1910s and 20s, and the
ing the city (and Selimiye Mosque right in front of you). Second World War when Nazi armies were only miles
331
332 CHAPTER 126. EDIRNE
away from the city, just on the opposite banks of the rivers habited continents and a metro line providing an easy con-
and most of the population was evacuated into interior nection to main bus station (otogar).
Turkey. Some of whom could not flee died of following
famine during this period. This depopulation trend slowly
but constantly continued until very recently and the city is 126.2.2 By bus
now home to barely 140,000 people. Although it is quite
a lively city, especially compared to other Turkish cities Easiest way to reach to Edirne is by bus from Istanbul.
of this size, however all you see today is just a fraction of Departures are at any time with a fare of some €10 and a
its former glory. trip of two hours, although stiff competition between the
bus companies may sometimes result in fares as low as
10 TL (€5) pp. Bus station in Edirne is located way out
126.1.2 Orientation of the city but free service midibuses will take you to the
city center.
The major streets of the city all fan out of main square, There are no direct buses to Bulgaria. It is, however, pos-
which is surrounded by three imperial mosques of Se- sible to take a taxi to Kapikule on the Bulgarian border.
limiye, Üç Şerefeli and Old Mosques — Talat Paşa Bul- From there one can sometimes wave over a bus traveling
varı lies towards east, eventually turning into the highway on to Plovdiv and Sofia. Another approach could be to
to Istanbul, while Londra Asfaltı leads to Bulgarian bor- walk across the border and take a bus or train from Kap-
der at Kapıkule in the west, via Gazi Mihal Bridge across itan Andreevo on the Bulgarian side of the border.
Tundzha. To north, Hükümet Caddesi connects city cen-
tre with the former palace neighbourhood in Sarayiçi and
to south pedestrianized Saraçlar Caddesi lies, extension 126.2.3 By train
lying on the edge of old city and open to vehicular traf-
fic of which eventually leads to Karaağaç across Tundzha There are two daily trains from Istanbul’s Sirkeci station
and Maritsa. (one at 8:30AM in the morning, and the other at 3:50PM
in the afternoon. Both arrives in Edirne about four hours
later). Trains from Europe to Istanbul also call at the sta-
126.1.3 Climate tion.
The main station (signed as Edirne Gar on the station
Temperate continental — hot and occasionally rainy (as
building) lies about 4 km east of downtown, close to the
showers which tend to last for 15–20 minutes) sum-
main avenue heading eastern suburbs of the city (which
mers (expect up to 40º C); cold and rainy, occasion-
is also the main highway to Istanbul). However, all trains
ally snowy winters (expect down to −10º C). Spring and
to Edirne drive onward west to Kapıkule (main border-
autumn months tend to be warmer than the locations
post on Bulgarian border) and call at Edirne Şehir station
on the sea coast (such as Istanbul)—so if day-tripping
on the way, too, which is little more than a platform next
from a coastal place during those months, especially in
to the rail tracks, lying less than a kilometre away from
May, drink plenty of water to avoid headaches due to
downtown to southwest, on the edge of the old quarter
dehydration—but winter arrives earlier (in November).
(Kaleiçi) and close to the banks of Tundzha.
Because Edirne lies in a geography that is the entering
point of many weather systems from Balkans (Southeast-
ern Europe) into Turkey, a good way of forecasting the
126.2.4 By car
weather conditions for the next few days is to follow what
other Balkan cities such as Plovdiv, Bulgaria is currently
The city is on the main highways linking Turkey
experiencing, as quite the same conditions will be what
and Europe (road numbers: toll-free D100 and toll-
Edirne is experiencing within a two or three days time.
road/motorway O-3/E80). A drive takes no more than
Due to cold and dry winds of winters, packing along some two hours from Istanbul (224 km away) to Edirne on the
kind of skin moisturizer in addition to warm clothing is motorway, even less if you drive very fast. The main
essential to avoid badly dried skin (which can go as far as European-Turkish border post Kapikule/Kapitan An-
bleeding in coldest days). dreevo (between Turkey and Bulgaria, SE of Svilengrad)
is about 15-20 km away from the city, while less signifi-
cant Pazarkule border post (between Turkey and Greece,
126.2 Get in north of Orestiada) is even nearer.
126.2.1 By plane 126.2.5 By boat
Of the nearby airports, the most convenient is Atatürk While it’s theoretically possible for even large ships to en-
International in Istanbul, which has flights from all inter the Maritsa River from the Aegean Sea and navigate
126.4. SEE 333
upriver up to Edirne (which was indeed common dur-

ing the time of Romans), the intense border area through
which the river flows makes any use of any kind of water
transportation impractical.
126.3 Get around

Almost entirety of Edirne is in walking distance, which
is made even easier by the mostly flat topography of the
city. However for some relatively distant places you may
take taxi which will cost only a few euros.
There are also lots of minibuses heading for outer neigh-
borhoods of the city.
126.4 See
The sights in Edirne can be roughly grouped into
those that are in downtown, those in northwestern
neighbourhoods (Sarayiçi, and Yeniimaret) across the
Tundzha River, and those in southwestern neighbourhood
(Karaağaç) across the Tundzha and the Maritsa Rivers. A
good number of medieval bridges span these rivers. Pedestrianized street of Saraçlar Caddesi in downtown
126.4.1 Downtown site by UNESCO in 2011. Sinan himself consid-

ered this building as his best work. The dome of
Main sights in downtown are quite close to the main the building, which hangs high over main hall, en-
square and to each other, and can be (hastily) done in half closes a huge space which gives the place an ex-
a day. pansive atmosphere, had the largest diameter (31.28
mt) of all domes in the world for several centuries.
And its minarets (towers) are the second highest
minarets (70.89 mt) in whole world, surpassed only
by Qutb Minar (72.50 mt) in Delhi, India. The
mosque has 999 windows in total, which according
to its architect Sinan, symbolize the perfectness of
God. The dome and interior walls are decorated
with calligraphy and geometrical designs, most of
which are painted in hues of pink and blue. If you
have admired Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque)
of Istanbul, you’ll sure adore this one, since Blue
Mosque is quite a copy of Selimiye. The upside
down tulips, which are some sort of symbol of
Edirne have their origin in a tulip illustration en-
graved on a marble in the fountain right under the
Detail from interior of Selimiye Mosque central dome of Selimiye. It is believed to symbolize
the landlord of the tulip garden on which the mosque
was built, who was said to be reluctant to give over
• Selimiye Mosque (Selimiye Camii) (at the central
his garden. Free.
square). That mosque which dominates the skyline
of the city, built on a slightly higher hill than its
surroundings, although a play on dimensions makes • Old Mosque (Eski Cami) (at the central square,
the exterior sight of the building smaller as you get across the street from Selimiye). The smallest—and
closer to it. A grandiose piece of art by Sinan, the oldest—one of three nearby, imperial mosques
the Ottoman architect of 16th century, Selimiye in downtown Edirne, it’s known for its calligraphic
is usually considered the zenith of Ottoman archi- inscriptions on its interior walls with a small central
tecture and has been listed as a World Heritage dome atop. Free.
• Üç Şerefeli Mosque (Üç Şerefeli Cami) (just north is Maarif Caddesi, which lies two blocks west of
of Old Mosque, close to Selimiye). This mosque is Saraçlar Caddesi. Along the side streets and Maarif
easily recognizable, having four distinctive minarets itself line a number of eloborate wooden houses, the
that all have very different designs, uncommon dur- walls of which are with highly delicate handwork,
ing the 15th century, one of which has three bal- though some are derelict. At one end of the street
conies, giving it its name which literally means is the Jewish Synagogue, the biggest one in Turkey
“three balconied”. Long undergoing restoration, in- and the whole Balkans, but is slowly decaying now.
terior of the mosque, which features a colourfully Almost all of its wooden sections (roof, windows)
decorated central dome, smaller surrounding domes has collapsed in one way or the other after it suf-
of varying sizes each featuring a different colour pat- fered from a storm in 1997, but some of its stone
tern, and very stately columns supporting them, has walls (especially the front façade) are sound enough
recently been re-opened to visits. The overall expe- to show its former grandeur. Entry is sensibly for-
rience of this colourful mosque is perhaps best sum- bidden. In one of the side alleys of Kaleiçi lie a small
marized as “joyful”. Free. stone church, used to be where Catholic congrega-
tion of the city held masses, though a part of a local
• Macedonian Tower (Makedonya Kulesi) (just primary school (İstiklal İlköğretim Okulu) nowadays.
across the side street from Üç Şerefeli). The sole still Numerous small Ottoman mosques are also scat-
intact tower of Edirne’s city walls, named as such tered around Kaleiçi and elsewhere in downtown.
perhaps because it roughly watches the direction of
Macedonia, or because of the former definition of • Şükrü Pasha Memorial and Balkan Wars Mu-
“Macedonia” which extends all the way to Edirne. seum (Şükrü Paşa Anıtı ve Balkan Savaşları Müzesi)
A round and robust tower, not unlike Thessaloniki's (just next to city cemetery, on the highest hill of the
White Tower except its colour, and next to it is the city, where that large flag is located). This is a mon-
last visible section of city walls, now surrounded by ument dedicated to Rüştü Pasha, the commander of
a nicely landscaped park. It’s possible to enter the the defending forces of the city during the Balkan
tower itself, but impossible to climb upstairs. It’s lo- Wars. Next to it is a small museum with various
cated in a back alley, so while you are near the Üç weapons (such as a small cannon) used during the
Şerefeli, look around on the top of buildings to see war. While the place is slightly away from the down-
the flag on a tower made of red-brick if you can’t town and is off the usual trail between the main
exactly locate it. The tower also served as a clock sights, it occupies the highest hill in the city and
tower until 1953, when the upper part of the tower offers a large overlooking view of the city and the
was demolished because of the danger of collapse. forests surrounding the rivers behind. Free.
Free.
• Muradiye Mosque (Muradiye Camii) (north of
• Museum of Archaeology (Arkeoloji Müzesi), Ali- downtown, close to the bridge of Sarayiçi). Free.
paşa Mahallesi, Kadirpaşa Sokak 7 (behind Se-
limiye), ☎ +90 284 225-11-20, fax: +90 284 225-
57-48. An original prehistoric dolmen moved from 126.4.2 Northwest
its original setting and a reconstructed Thracian
hut—typical of those used by the ancient folk of the Across the Tundzha from downtown, in the northwest-
region—is among the displayed in the garden of the ern outskirts of the city lie Sarayiçi, literally “inside the
museum. palace” and Yeniimaret. Both are linked to city centre
by their respective medieval bridges.
• Museum of Islamic Arts (İslam Eserleri Müzesi) Most of the monuments around this section of the city
(behind Selimiye). A subsection of Museum of Ar- were actually located in city’s suburbs, however the de-
chaeology. (so the same contact info applies.) population of the city resulted much of them now lying
in the middle of open fields.
• Saraçlar Caddesi. A pedestrianized shopping
street with pleasant cafés on sides. The old shop • Sarayiçi. Upon crossing a long bridge over the
buildings on this street has a distinctively neoclas- Tundzha, you will arrive on an island surrounded by
sical architecture. two branches of the Tundzha (though not immedi-
ately recognizable as such while you are actually on
• Old quarter. Locally named Kaleiçi, i.e. “walled it). A modern stadium in which annual wrestling
city”, this is the oldest part of the city although the competitions take place, surrounded by some statues
city walls and gates have vanished a long time ago. of champions of past years will welcome you to this
Built in a grid plan after it suffered from a big fire island. Just next to it is the Justice Tower (Adalet
in late 19th century, the main artery of this part Kasrı), a sturdy square tower and the sole completely
126.4. SEE 335
intact remnant of former imperial palace of Ot- early 2000s, was essentially a mental institution used
tomans here. Next to the Tower, a smaller bridge on during Ottoman times, part of Beyazıt Complex
the narrower branch of the river surrounded by some (Beyazıt Külliyesi). It was notable for its “progres-
centuries-old ash trees will take you back to the sive”/”alternative” approach towards its patients. In-
“mainland”. Here at your right, about 100 metres stead of locking them into cells with shackles, which
away, is the monument to the soldiers fallen at the was widespread during that time, methods such as
Siege of Edirne in 1913 (Monument to the Mar- meditative music or flower gardens were tried in this
tyrs of Balkan War/Balkan Savaşı Şehitliği). The institution. Today, many Ottoman miniatures from
monument itself, which is a recent construction with medical schoolbooks and elsewhere and models of
an older one hidden behind the bushes nearby, is patients are among the displayed.
nothing very interesting, typical of many such Turk-
ish monuments built to commemorate World War I South of Yeniimaret, due west of city centre is Gazi
and previous battles in, say, Gallipoli. However the Mihal Bridge (Gazi Mihal Köprüsü), a long arch bridge
site is actually mass grave of an estimated 30,000 built during Byzantine period and then repaired in 1420
soldiers, so appropriate respect should be shown. that spans the Tundzha and lies on the main highway to
Further away from the river is the ruins of a number Kapıkule border post from city centre, and the adjacent
of buildings of the former palace scattered around Gazi Mihal Mosque (Gazi Mihal Camii), built by Gazi
the fields, which had the unfortunate service as an ar- Mihal Pasha, an Ottoman commander of Bulgarian ori-
senal during the siege of 1913, and had been blown gin. These are better accessible from city centre rather
up in order not to fall in hands of Bulgarians, the than from Yeniimaret, though a stroll along the dykes
opposite side of the battle. Although the place had along the Tundzha will bring you here too.
lost the distinction of being a capital in 15th century,
it was still the favourite summer retreat of Ottoman
dynasty, featuring numerous hunting manors on the 126.4.3 Southwest
edges of the actual palace. Ruins are now undergo-
ing a slow restoration (or perhaps reconstruction),
with the imperial kitchen has returned to its pre-
1913 appearance recently. An illustration in front
of the gate of the palace building—the only part of
the building that escaped the blast—may help you
envisage what the palace looked like. Free.
South of Sarayiçi is the neighbourhood of Yeniimaret,

which, like Sarayiçi, is connected to the downtown by two
bridges with an island on the Tundzha inbetween and is
where the Medical Museum is located.
Ottoman bridge spanning Maritsa on the way to Karaağaç
Southwest of downtown is the quarter of Karaağaç (pro-

nounced kaa raa aa ach), the only Turkish territory west
of Maritsa River, which forms most of Turkish-Greek
land border.
Two Ottoman bridges connect Karaağaç to downtown,
which are well worth a look—pick these if you don’t have
time to check out any other bridge around the city. The
first and shorter one, just southwest of the edge of old
Ancient Ottoman hospital (Darüşşifa), part of which is now hous-
ing Medical Museum
quarter (Kaleiçi) and actually quite close to the Syna-
gogue at the end of Maarif Caddesi, spans the Tundzha.
About 250 mt further, you’ll arrive at the second one,
• Medical Museum (Sağlık Müzesi), Beyazıt Kül- which spans the Maritsa and is gloriously longer than the
liyesi, Yeniimaret (close to the banks of Tundzha), first one, as the riverbed is gloriously larger, not much un-
☎ +90 284 224-09-22, fax: +90 284 224-65-00, e- like that of Danube. Right at the midpoint of the bridge,
mail: kulliye@trakya.edu.tr. This museum, which there is a lookout in typical Ottoman style.
was awarded “European Museum of the Year” in A two-and-a-half-kilometre long cobbled road through a
contains marble statues chipped in situ by sculptors from

neighbouring countries.
126.5 Do
Young oil wrestlers
Old train station in Karaağaç • Watch an oil-wrestling (yağlı güreş) competition,

the national sport of Turks (although surpassed a
little by soccer lately), which annually takes place
lush forest links the Maritsa Bridge with Karaağaç. On in the stadium in Sarayiçi, northwestern outskirts of
the way, there is an urban forest named Söğütlük (admis- the city, on the banks of Tundzha. (Although dates
sion 2 TL pp), a favourite weekend picnic spot of locals vary year to year, it always takes place in late spring
which extends along the bank of river. or early summer, such months as May, June or July.)
This is the most prestigious wrestling tournament in
Karaağaç has an atmosphere more of a town rather than
Turkey and the winner is titled başpehlivan (“chief
a city neighbourhood, with some charming mansions
of all wrestlers”) of the year.
scattered around its grid plan. At the southwestern end
of Karaağaç is the historical building in late Ottoman
style of the Presidency of Trakya University (Trakya
Üniversitesi Rektörlüğü), placed in a pleasant garden (free 126.6 Buy
admission). The building, which dates back to the final
years of 19th century, was originally built as the main Edirne is famous for its fruit-shaped soaps. They are not
train station of the city as the steam locomotive at the used for cleaning (although they can clean as well as other
backyard still attests, and had that service for years un- soaps do) but for decoration. Within the first months you
til 1970s when it was abandoned after a new railway put them into a room, they also work as natural air fresh-
straight to the city was laid, due to the increasingly in- eners by releasing their fragrances.
convenient operation of former railtracks crisscrossing
Almond paste (badem ezmesi) is a local, soft cookie-like
Turkish-Greek border as the relations between two na-
dessert which is made of bitter almond.
tions detoriate. The university took over in 1998. At
the side of the building is Lausanne Monument (Lozan
Anıtı), a metallic structure of three columns symboliz- • Keçecizade, Hükümet Cad. 5 (the central store;
ing Turkey (the longest one symbolizes Asian Turkey, they also have stores at various other places through-
the middle-sized symbolizes Eastern Thrace (European out the city) (opposite Üç Şerefeli), ☎ +90 284
Turkey), while the shortest symbolizes Karaağaç itself, 225-24-81, fax: +90 284 213-30-60. Perhaps the
being the only Turkish soil west of Maritsa River, in most well-known producer of almond paste, which
other words west of Eastern Thrace) with a lady in the also offers a variety of other traditional and local
middle holding a sheet of paper, presumably symboliz- desserts.
ing Treaty of Lausanne, in which major western powers
recognized newly founded Turkish Republic in 1923. Be- Brooms — While it may be a bit strange to buy brooms
hind the monument, in the shades of a pine woods is an as a souvenir from a trip, Edirne has a long tradition
open air sculpture exhibition (free admission) which of broommaking and ornamental brooms (traditionally
126.8. DRINK 337
given to brides as a gift) can be found at numerous stores 126.8 Drink

(especially at those offering tourist souvenirs) around the
city. Compared with most cities of its size in Turkey, Edirne is
Edirne has numerous Ottoman covered bazaars. full of birahanes (pubs) and restaurants that serve alcohol.
There are some particularly nice ones by the river on the
• Arasta (just under the outer yard of Selimiye road to Karaagac.
Mosque, signposted “Çarşı Girişi”). The smaller
bazaar of the city where the offers of stores range • There is an open-air café (Sera Café) amidst a beau-
from fruit shaped soaps (a basket of which start from tifully landscaped park in front of Selimiye where
3 TL) to almond paste, cheap t-shirts and shoes, you can have a cup of tea or coffee and watch the
and Edirne-related (and especially Selimiye-related) city.
souvenirs and trinkets.
• Alipaşa. A bigger bazaar lying long in parallel with • Protokol Evi (at the end of Maritsa Bridge towards
Saraçlar Caddesi. Karaağaç). Run by city council, this is an open air
cafe immediately on the banks of Maritsa with a
pleasant building historically used as a checkpoint
at the entrance of the city. Elegantly decorated with
126.7 Eat wrought iron chairs and tables, the cafe has a dis-
tant view of Selimiye above the trees on the opposite
Liver (ciğer) is a definitely must-try for non-vegetarians. riverbank. Nothing else but hot and soft drinks is
It is prepared in a unique local way (whole pieces, not served at the moment (that means no snacks!). 0.50
puree, of liver, covered in flour, are deep fried inside a TL for a glass of tea.
cauldron full of boiling vegetable oil) and served with an
infernally hot dried and crunchy pepper. If you are one of
those who don’t like liver because of its distinct smell, you
can be pretty sure you won’t sense it in Edirne liver. Best
126.9 Sleep
to be eaten with ayran, a salty yogurt drink because it’s
one of two things (the other is bread, which fortunately Tourism in Edirne is on the rise and hotel scene is im-
is served free of charge at liver restaurants) that can sup- proving with many nice hotels to stay.
press the fire the dried pepper leaves on your palate.
There is a cluster of small sit-in eateries (ciğerci) in the • Şaban Açıkgöz Hotel, Çilingirler Cad. no: 9, ☎
park next to the Old Mosque (Eski Cami), all offering +90 284 213 03 13 (info@sabanacikgozhotel.com,
basically the same menu (i.e., the fried liver), and a re- fax: +90 284 213 45 16), [7]. 28 standard rooms
ally filling portion of liver costs 9 TL in any of them. and 6 suites are available in the hotel with 74 beds in
They also order other meals from other nearby restaurants total. There are bathrooms with hair dryer and 24h
for those who are with you and do not want to eat liver. hot water, 32” LED TV with satellite connection, air
Yudum at one corner of the cluster is good, clean, and conditioner, free Wi-Fi and mini refrigerator in the
efficient. rooms., e-mail: info@sabanacikgozhotel.com.
• Ciğerci Kemal, Alipaşa Orta Kapı Cad. no: 3, ☎ • Antik Hotel, Maarif Caddesi 6 (in the old quarter),
+90 284 213 64 75. Local fried liver restaurant. ☎ +90 284 225-15-56. Clean hotel with great views
From 9 TL. of the mosques, housed in a charming old building
dating back to early 1900s on a quiet side street.
• Soylu Tava Ciğer Döner / Mehmet Soylu, Hasan Rooms with air-con, satellite TV, wireless internet
Sezai Türbesi karşısı, Bostanpazarı, ☎ +90 284 214 connection, and en-suite. Friendly staff can speak
17 67. little English and some German. 100 TL.
• Köfteci Hocaoğlu, Saraçlar Caddesi 73, Zin-
danaltı (at one end of the pedestrianized section of • Hotel Balta, Talatpaşa Bulvarı 97, Ayşekadın
Saraçlar Caddesi), ☎ +90 284 214-73-00, e-mail: (east of city centre; on the street leading to cen-
koftecihocaoglu@hotmail.com. A local restaurant tral square with imperial mosques), ☎ +90 284
specialized in meatballs (köfte) that are not extraor- 225-52-10, fax: +90 284 225-35-29, e-mail:
dinary but is quite tasty and okay. Quite clean info@baltahotel.com.tr. Rooms with air-con, satel-
restaurant with not so long waits, though could be lite TV. From US$60/100 single/double, including
more efficient in service. Overlooks the pedestrian- breakfast.
ized shopping street of the city, so good for people-
watching. From 12 TL pp for a portion of meatballs, • Efe Hotel, Maarif Cad. no: 13 (in the old quarter),
a soft drink, salads, and dessert. ☎ +90 284 213 61 66, fax: +90 284 60 80. Rooms
with air conditioner, satellite TV, hot water, and free • / Honorary Consulate of France/Honorary
of charge wireless internet access. US$ 80 (single Consulate of Germany (Fransa Fahri Kon-
rooms) - US$ 110 (double rooms). solosluğu/Almanya Fahri Konsolosluğu), Balık-
pazarı Caddesi, Of Sitesi C Blok, D.2, Kaleiçi,
• Tuna Hotel, Maarif Cd. (close to the Antik and ☎ +90 284 213-55-63, fax: +90 284 213-10-61,
Efe Hotels). Nice and clean, but small rooms, which e-mail: dursunoglu_ercan@hotmail.com.
come with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, satellite TV,
• Consulate of Greece (Yunanistan Konsolosluğu),
and wi-fi. 75 TL single, breakfast included.
Kocasinan Mahallesi, 2 Sokak, No: 12, Binevler, ☎
+90 284 235-58-04, fax: +90 284 235-58-08.
126.10 Stay safe • Honorary Consulate of Romania (Romanya Fahri

Konsolosluğu), Londra Asfaltı 64, Kıray Apartmanı,
Avoid hanging around the banks of Tundza and Maritsa ☎ +90 284 225-56-90, fax: +90 284 225-56-90.
Rivers and Karaağaç before/during/after a heavy rainfall, • Honorary Consulate of Slovakia (Slovakya Fahri
especially in wintertime. Although the downtown is never Konsolosluğu), Hükümet Cad. Bankalar Aralığı 1/1,
affected, these areas tend to have a heavy flood during Uğur Apt. (opposite Üç Şerefeli Mosque), ☎ +90
such a time, mainly because of overflowing of dams lo- 284 212-01-74, fax: +90 284 225-11-61, e-mail:
cated upriver in Bulgaria. So if you are in Edirne in win- info@slovakyaedirne.com.
ter and plan to visit the aforementioned locations (which
you should), stay ahead of weather forecasts. If you see
a water rise in the river, be suspicious, call and inform
police (telephone number: 155), and quickly go to some- 126.13 Go next
where far from and higher than riverbed as much as pos-
sible. The buildings themselves in Karaağaç are rarely or • Prehistoric dolmens and menhirs are scattered
lightly affected, but the problem is that the quarter is cut around the landscape north of the city, around the
off from the rest of the world as the bridges which con- town of Lalapaşa.
nect it to downtown Edirne sink underwater. If you are
• Uzunköprü — literally “the long bridge”, this town
trapped in such a situation, be sure about your distance to
66 km south of Edirne was named after a 15th cen-
the river and wait for evacuation crews. Because affected
tury stone bridge of 174 arches, spanning a length of
areas are generally the same in each flood, they are quick
about 1500 metres (4500 feet) across the River Er-
to respond with their boats and gear.
gene, a tributary of Maritsa, and the marshy mead-
ows on the banks of it. Purportedly one of the
longest medieval bridges in the world, the bridge just
126.11 Connect north of the town is still in use by the modern traf-
fic of the highway D550/E87, linking Edirne with
City’s telephone code is 284 (+90 284 when calling from various locations south.
out of Turkey).
• Enez further to south on the shore of Aegean Sea
is a popular town among the Edirneans to spend the
summer, which features long sandy beaches and a
126.12 Cope Byzantine citadel.
126.12.1 Consulates • Istanbul to southeast, possibly with a detour via

Tekirdağ on the coast of the Sea of Marmara is the
Neighbouring countries of Bulgaria, Greece, and obvious choice if you have just arrived in Turkey
Romania, as well as France and Germany (which are from Europe.
represented by the same person), Austria, and Slovakia • Or taking a more southernly route across the Straits
maintain consulates in the city. of Dardanelles towards Çanakkale via Gallipoli and
from there on to Aegean Turkey.
• Honorary Consulate of Austria (Avusturya
Fahri Konsolosluğu), Yetimler Çarşısı 9 (between • Both Kapıkule and Pazarkule borderposts, on the
Old Mosque and Saraçlar Caddesi), ☎ +90 284 Turkish-Bulgarian and Turkish-Greek borders re-
212-22-68, fax: +90 284 225-10-06, e-mail: spectively, are just kilometres away from city.
hsiragezen@hotmail.com. M-F 9AM-6PM.
• Consulate General of Bulgaria (Bulgaristan
Başkonsolosluğu), Talat Paşa Asfaltı 31, ☎ +90 284
214-06-17, fax: +90 284 214-84-82. 9AM-6PM.
Chapter 127
Enez
Enez (pronounced ay-nayz, ) is a small town in south- 127.2.1 By bus

western corner of Eastern Thrace, European part of
Turkey. It is located on the northern shores of the Aegean There are one or two direct bus connections daily with
Sea, near where the river Maritsa (Meriç in Turkish, Evros Istanbul in summer. The seats are sold out in a very short
in Greek) empties into the sea. Its ancient name was time, so buy your ticket in advance. If you don’t have
Ainos. a ticket bought beforehand and simply can’t just secure a
seat on your departure day, you can buy a ticket for Keşan
instead, which has a lot more connections with Istanbul
which don’t generally need to be booked. In Keşan’s
127.1 Understand otogar (bus station), take a public minibus or courtesy
minibuses which your bus company provides, and ask to
be dropped at eski garaj (pronounced ays-kee ga-rrazh, zh
One of the last places in Eastern Thrace that the Ottoman like j in French), which is the former and much smaller
Turks had taken control of, Enez, or Ainos as it was called bus station of the town. At eski garaj, you will be able
then, was captured by Ottomans a full three years after the to find a (likely non-air conditioned) minibus heading for
fall of Constantinople, in 1456, from the Genoese who Enez, departing within half an hour at most. Keşan-Enez
ruled the town since 1355 as one of their trading posts ride takes about an hour while Istanbul-Keşan takes about
along the Aegean and Black Sea coasts. three and a half hour.
Enez today is a sleepy provincial town which sees some There are also direct buses from Edirne.
sort of liveliness only June through August, when peo-
ple from surrounding towns and cities—especially from
nearby inland city of Edirne—move in for the summer to
their holiday homes in the conglomeration of two-storey 127.2.2 By car
buildings on the plains behind the beach, 5 km south of
Enez, and actually several times larger and more populous Go to Keşan first, which can be reached by tak-
than the town proper itself (which has a constant/winter ing D110/E90 from Greco-Turkish border/Ipsala
population of around 4,000). During this time, Enez can (west), D110/E84 from Istanbul/Tekirdağ (east),
be reasonably dubbed as “Edirne-all-packed-and-moved- D550/E87 from Edirne (north), D550/E87/E90 from
to-the-beach”. During the rest of the year, though, the Gelibolu/Çanakkale (south). In Keşan crossroad, take
beach neighbourhood turns into a total ghost town. the southerly road (D550/E87/E90, follow 'Çanakkale'
signs) if arriving from west/east/north and after you
Enez sees almost no international travellers, and the fact left the crossroad with traffic lights about 2 km behind,
that the town was a military zone until early 2000s with take the road to west (follow 'Enez' signs, for which
very limited access for non-Turks as it lies just on the you should watch out as those signs are not very big).
Greek border plays no small part in this, although it’s now From Keşan, Enez is a 60 km drive away and the road is
open to all. somewhat narrow in some parts.
Sights in the town can be done as in little time as half a
day, even if you pay a very detailed attention. The main
draw is actually the long, sandy beach and the crystal clear 127.2.3 By train
sea, spared from all kinds of pollution.
The nearest station is in Uzunköprü, about 80 km away
and which has two daily connections with Istanbul. Once
in Uzunköprü, you can either take direct buses or take a
127.2 Get in minibus to Keşan and transfer there to another one bound
for Enez.
339
340 CHAPTER 127. ENEZ
127.3 Get around 127.9 Sleep

The town centre is 4-5 km away from the beach, where There is only one hotel in the town centre. There are more
there are accommodation facilities and lots of ‘summer guesthouses (pansiyon) in the beach neighbourhood.
houses’. There is a minibus connection once every two
hours between the town centre and the beach. You can • Ege Otel (in the town centre), ☎ +90 284 811 60 86.
also hitchhike on that road very easily. Check out the
narrow and curvy bridge which has no barriers on the road
to beach.
127.10 Stay safe
Keep in mind that it’s not ‘cool’ to swim in Maritsa River.
127.4 See As the riverbed is exactly where Greco-Turkish border is,
this area is passageway of illegal immigrant smugglers, so
• Castle, which has a Byzantine chapel on its grounds, anyone swimming in the river may be detained or fined by
is situated right next to the banks of Maritsa river at either Greek or Turkish authorities for ‘illegally entering
the town centre. The opposite bank of the river is the country’. Go to the sea instead.
actually another country: Greece.
127.11 Stay healthy

127.5 Do
The mosquito population of Enez is exceptionally large,
• Take a stroll on the beach or in the pine woods near largely due to its location near the swamps created by
the beach. Maritsa delta. Their bites are also exceptionally painful,
so don’t forget to pack a repellent, screen, and anything
• Swim in the crystal blue sea. However, be careful
else that will keep mosquitoes away from you. No need to
as it gets deep very quickly as you move away from
worry about malaria though, the worst mosquito bites can
the coastline.
cause is (heavy) itching, as malaria is totally eradicated
• Go birdwatching in Maritsa delta and nearby lakes (or already unknown since time immemorial) in this part
(for example Lake Gala). of the world.
Also beware of sea urchins, which are relatively common
• Watch the sun setting behind the Greek island of in the area, when swimming.
Samothrace, that huge black mountain rising sud-
denly out of the sea.
127.12 Connect
127.6 Buy
Enez’s telephone code is 284 (+90 284 when calling from
out of Turkey).
127.7 Eat
Because of the town’s location on both seashore and the 127.13 Go next
banks of a major river, it is possible year-round to buy
and eat both saltwater and freshwater fish cheaply. Other towns and villages located along the northern
shore of Saros Bay, namely Sultaniçe, Erikli, Mecidiye,
Sazlıdere and Adilhan. This region is also popular with
127.8 Drink scuba divers as Saros Bay is one of the cleanest and
liveliest (in terms of marine ecology) bodies of water in
Turkey.
You can have a cup of tea or coffee in the garden of ruins
of an inn, known as İngiliz Kışlası, which is serving as an
outdoor café now (near the beach). The name of the inn
(“barracks of the Englishmen” in Turkish) comes from
the fact that the building was once used by the British
traders who were buying oak trunks to produce charcoal
in Britain. Infrequently located oak trees you may see
near the beach are the remnants of a lush oak forest which
covered the whole area before the trade.
Chapter 128
Gallipoli
on 18 March as Çanakkale Zaferi (Çanakkale Victory),

every year, with tens of thousands of Turks attending the
events on the battlefields and memorials.
The area around Anzac Cove is particularly significant
for Australians and New Zealanders, whose armies re-
ceived their baptism in fire on the cliffs there, and carved a
fine military reputation under extreme adversity and enor-
mous loss of life; and this military disaster marked the be-
ginning of a separate Australian and New Zealand nation-
hood. The 1915 landings and battles are commemorated
by Australians and New Zealanders on ANZAC Day, 25
April, every year. At this time especially, Gallipoli be-
comes a place of pilgrimage for many Aussies and Kiwis
who want to honour the memory of their forbears.
Turkish monument in Cape Helles (Seddülbahir) at the entrance
of the Straits
Gallipoli (Turkish: Gelibolu) is a peninsula locality in 128.1 Understand

north-western Turkey, close to Istanbul. The Gallipoli
Peninsula is the site of extensive First World War battle-
fields and memorials on the north bank of the Dardanelles Gallipoli is an elongated (around 40–50 km from its
Strait. It is a commemorative site for the Allied (British one end to another) peninsula stretching southwest from
Empire, France) and Turkish forces who fought, died and Thracian mainland, between the Bay of Saros (an in-
were wounded there. The Gallipoli Campaign also known dentation of Aegean Sea) and the Straits of Dardanelles.
as the Battle of the Dardanelles was very costly for both The peninsula is named after a town (Gelibolu) on its
sides, and casualties and losses amount to 220,000 with a northeastern tip, near where it connects to the rest of the
59% casualty rate for the Allied forces, and 253,000 with mainland. The battles took place in scattered locations
a 60% casualty rate for the Turkish forces. around its southwestern end, where the peninsula fronts
the Aegean Sea on a coastline full of cliffs.
The battle resonated profoundly among some nations in-
volved. In Turkey, the battle is perceived as a defining It was this geographical location—at the entrance of the
moment in the history of the Turkish people—a final Dardanelles, and thus on the supply route to Russia via the
surge in the defence of the motherland as the centuries- Sea of Marmara, Bosphorus, and the Black Sea—why the
old Ottoman Empire was crumbling; and in Australia Gallipoli Campaign was planned in the first place.
and New Zealand, the then perceived duty to serve their In addition to the battlesites, there is plenty of pleas-
“Mother Country” Britain, resulted in their military de- ant vistas to be enjoyed in the peninsula, including pine
feat, but their sacrifice and heroism marked the birth of forests, views over the sea from hilltops, and beautiful
a separate national consciousness in both of these coun- oliveyards along the roadsides.
tries.
The Gallipoli peninsula is one of the most sacred sites
for the Turkish nation, with many monuments such as the
Monument of Martyrs erected in the honor of the Turkish 128.1.1 Climate
soldiers who died in the Battle of the Dardanelles against
the Allied forces, whose defeat staved off a potential inva- Average temperature values in nearby Çanakkale are as
sion of Turkey. The victory over the Allies is celebrated in the list to the right.
341
342 CHAPTER 128. GALLIPOLI
128.2 Get in ing a little more inland. Note that turning right from
the ferry jetty will not directly take you to the park,
because that road actually the main road to Istan-
128.2.1 By car
bul. After leaving Eceabat a few kilometres behind,
you should quit that road by turning left towards the
The national park which is home to battlefields lies
park.
close to main Istanbul-Çanakkale road (numbered D-
550/E87/E90).
• Driving from Istanbul involves passing Eastern 128.3 Get around

Thrace (European Turkey) from its eastern extrem-
ity to its southwestern one, mostly closely follow- Coach tours of the battlefields are available from
ing Marmara Sea coastline. Here’s a quick de- Çanakkale and Eceabat, and also straight from Istanbul
scription of the route: First you should take D-100 around Anzac Day (April 25) every year. A much bet-
or O-3/E80 (motorway/toll-road) to west, generally ter way of seeing the battlefields at your own pace is
signed as the direction to ‘Edirne’ in or near Is- by hiring a car from Çanakkale or Istanbul. If stay-
tanbul. Quit the motorway (if you are already on ing in Çanakkale, a ferry crossing to Eceabat or Kilit-
that) in Kınalı exit (follow ‘Tekirdağ’ signs) to D- bahir is involved. Ferries operate regularly throughout
100, and in the major intersection you’ll soon ar- the day and are not too expensive. The battlefields around
rive, take straight road (D-110/E84, again follow Cape Helles and particularly Anzac Cove / Pine Ridge are
‘Tekirdağ’ signs). Within one and a half to two linked by an excellent road network. Most sites lie close
hours after you left Istanbul, you’ll reach Tekirdağ, to the road although some can only be reached by foot -
the first major city on your route. Note that the there are usually paths of some description and the most
blue signs to right (‘Malkara’/’Keşan’) immediately you will have to walk is a few hundred metres. Suvla Bay
after you enter Tekirdağ will direct you to the ring is less accessible as the road is very poorly surfaced.
road, which draws an arch around the city. If you
plan to have a meal in this lovely coastal city, you
should follow the white ‘Şehir Merkezi’ sign in or-
der to drive through the city. You can find some 128.4 See
decent restaurants near the harbour (there are traf-
fic lights nearby). However, with the recent con-
structions, the ring road has been completely up-
graded to motorway standards, so if you are short
on time, follow those 'Malkara'/'Keşan' signs. After
you left Tekirdağ behind, you’ll pass by Malkara and
soon Keşan, in about one hour. In the major cross-
road in Keşan, turn left (D-550/E87/E90, follow
‘Gelibolu’/’Çanakkale’ signs). You’ll drive through a
mountain pass surrounded by some nice pine woods
(slow down around here, as some of the curves are
unexpectedly and unforeseenly stiff), and in about
45 minutes after you left Keşan, you’ll pass by Geli-
bolu town: Although a nice town in itself, this is not
where you are heading off to, but rather the town
which gave its name to the whole peninsula. In about
Atatürk’s—founder of Turkish Republic—words for Anzacs who
half an hour after Gelibolu town, you’ll see road
shed their blood in Gallipoli (click to enlarge)
signs for the national park (Milli Park) towards right,
before reaching Eceabat, which is a few kilometres
away. Soon, you’ll arrive to the battlefields. Total There are three main battlefield areas - Cape Helles
dinstance is about 340 km. Expect to drive for at (Turkish: Seddülbahir), Anzac / Pine Ridge and Suvla
least 4 hours, breaks discluded. Bay (which has fewer places to visit). Depending on how
detailed your itinerary is, it would be possible to visit the
• From Çanakkale, you should take the ferry to Kilit- main sites of interest, particularly around Cape Helles and
bahir or Eceabat, and from there on turn left or right Anzac/Pine Ridge, in a single day. More realistically, two
according to which exact battlefield you want to visit, or three days allows plenty of time for an extensive tour,
although both directions can take you to any field taking in all the battlefield sites, cemeteries and memori-
within the park. The road towards left (lying along als. Must sees include:
the Strait) is more scenic but windy and less well-
kept, so it usually takes longer than the right one ly- • Cannakale Martyrs Memorial (near Cape Helles)
128.8. STAY SAFE 343
• British Memorial at Cape Helles • Gallipoli Houses, Kocadere (within the National
park), ☎ +90 286 814-26-50, fax: +90 286 814-
• Anzac Cove
16-17, e-mail: talk2us@gallipoli.com.tr. Check-in:
• Pine Ridge Australian Memorial 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Opened in 2007, this ho-
tel is housed in a number of separate houses of tra-
• New Zealand Monument, Chunuk Bair ditional stone/Mediterranean architecture. Rooms
• Atatürk Statue, Chunuk Bair with air-con, showers, central heating, and wire-
less internet access. Seven of rooms have terraces
Be aware that despite what certain tour operators will tell while the remaining three have balconies. The ho-
you it is entirely possible to attend the Dawn Service on tel located in the village of Kocadere, in the very
ANZAC day independent of a tour group. There are taxis middle of the peninsula. Starts from €70/€90 sin-
from Ecebat and private vehicles and pedestrians are ad- gle/double rooms a night half-board. Visa and Mas-
mitted free of charge into the park during this time. This terCard are accepted.
saves arriving in the evening of April 24 and freezing
overnight waiting for the service at 5:30am on the 25th • Hotel Kum (4 km south of Kabatepe ferry
April. harbour), ☎ +90 286 814-14-55, e-mail:
rezervasyon@hotelkum.com. Rooms with air-con,
central heating, satellite TV, en-suite bathrooms,
128.5 Do and balconies, offered in a hotel right next to beach.
Hotel grounds also has a caravan park, which offers
Aside from the 1915 battlefields, why not visit the new refrigerator, kitchen area, laundry, and showers.
Gelibolu Milli Park visitors centre where there are excel-
lent displays relating to the natural history of the penin-
sula. You can also visit the ancient fortress of Kilitbahir 128.8 Stay safe
south of Eceabat or take a ferry across the Straits to Asia;
from Çanakkale, drive to what is reputed to be the site of The Turkish government has been keen to ensure the
Ancient Troy (signposted Troia) about 30 kilometres to safety of visitors to the sites and security measures are
the south. The ruins of the legendary city - complete with in place at busy times around Anzac Day 25 April. There
(reconstructed) wooden horse - are open to the public. is no sense of danger and Gallipoli is a very safe desti-
nation - local people are friendly and welcoming towards
visitors. The Turks show great respect for the Allied war
128.6 Eat & Drink sites and it is of course very important to show similar
respect towards Turkish sites.
On the peninsula itself, Eceabat is the only sizeable town
close to the battlefields where you will find a good selec-
tion of places to eat. There is a restaurant in the Gelibolu 128.9 Go next
'Milli Park' visitors’ centre north of Eceabat. Food and
drink can be bought in smaller towns such as Alcitepe • Gökçeada, the biggest Turkish island in the Aegean
close to Cape Helles. It is, of course, important to have Sea, has a direct ferry service from Kabatepe har-
plenty of water with you in summer when temperatures bour, located at the western shore of the peninsula.
can be quite hot. Some of the major battlefield sites have
stalls selling cold drinks as well as ice cream.
128.7 Sleep
Çanakkale is a popular place for tourists to Gallipoli and
offers a wide range of hotels. Eceabat offers less choice
of places to stay but is nonetheless a pleasant alternative,
much closer to the battlefields themselves, less crowded
and avoids the need for ferry crossings, thus saving time
and money. Brand new hotel Crowded House in Eceabat
has private and dorm rooms suitable for all kind of trav-
ellers. The Hotel Aqua and Eceabat Hotel offers good
en-suite rooms overlooking the Straits at a very reason-
able price. Within the park there are two hotels, the much
praised “Gallipoli Houses” and the Kumhotel.
Chapter 129
Gelibolu
Gelibolu, also known as Gallipoli, is a town in Eastern

Thrace, on the northern banks of the Straits of Dard-
anelles.
For the national park housing battlefields and

related monuments of Gallipoli Campaign of
World War I, see the separate Gallipoli article.
129.1 Understand
Gelibolu, ancient Kallipolis (Greek for “beautiful city”),
from which both modern Turkish and English (Gallipoli) Gelibolu ferry harbour
names derive, is located at the base of the peninsula
named after the town, which juts out from Thracian
drive into town’s small otogar, which lies about 5 minutes
mainland and extends for about 50 km in a northeast-
walk west of town centre.
southwest direction between the Straits of Dardanelles
and the Gulf of Saros, an inlet of Aegean Sea. From Quite frequent ferries connect Gelibolu with the towns of
Gelibolu eastwards, the Straits widen into the Sea of Mar-Çardak and Lapseki—which lie about 15 km away from
mara. each other—across the Dardanelles on the Asian main-
land. However, as this is where the strait is at its widest,
The site of the earliest Ottoman shipyards and navy
crossing takes no less than 45 minutes. The ferry jetty in
headquarters, Gelibolu has always been a seafaring
Gelibolu is right on the edge of the town square.
town, once serving as the capital of the Ottoman province
that occupied most of the Aegean islands, all the way
down to Crete. Perhaps the most famous native of the
town was Piri Reis, an Ottoman admiral and cartog- 129.3 Get around
rapher, known primarily for the quite accurate map of
American continent he had drawn in 1513.
129.4 See
Today, due to its strategic locality, Gelibolu is a garrison
town, with a substantial part of its surface area consisting Despite its current provincial feel, Gelibolu is quite rich
of military camps. As of 2011, it has a population of in historical sights.
more than 30,000.
129.2 Get in 129.5 Do
Gelibolu lies 2 km south of the highway between Eceabat 129.6 Buy

(which has ferry connections to Çanakkale) and Keşan
(D550/E87), where the highway connects with D110/E84
to east (Istanbul), D110/E90 to west (Greek border) and 129.7 Eat
D550/E87 to north (Edirne). Two connecting roads lead
into the town centre.
129.8 Drink
All buses operating on the Istanbul–Çanakkale route
344
129.11. GO NEXT 345
129.9 Sleep side resort town with campgrounds and numerous

beaches.
You can find some hotels at the central square next to the
ferry jetty, as well as some more behind the Hamzakoy
beach northeast of town centre.
129.10 Connect
129.11 Go next
• You may possibly want to visit Gallipoli battle-
fields and WWI memorials next, but those are lo-
cated at the opposite tip of the peninsula, i.e., about
45 km southwest of Gelibolu. As such, Eceabat
and Çanakkale are more convenient hubs for a visit
there.
• About 15 km northeast of Gelibolu, just off the

highway to Keşan is the village of Bolayır, up on
the hilly spine of the peninsula. Bolayır is the site of
cemeteries of Süleyman Pasha, the Ottoman com-
mandant who captured more or less what is today
Turkish Thrace from Byzantines in 14th century,
and Namık Kemal, the national poet of Turkey
who hold republican ideals during the decline of Ot-
toman Empire in late 19th century. Despite the oc-
cupants’ historical importance, the cemeteries are
not very impressive edifices, but basic Ottoman-
style tombs (the outdoor marble sarcophagi with Ot-
toman/Arabic carvings all around them—including
Namık Kemal’s own—may worth the look, though),
however they are located in a large attractive garden
with a commanding view of the farmlands below.
Also near Bolayır is the ruins of the first Ottoman
Turkish foothold on European mainland, taken by
Süleyman Pasha in 1350s—the originally Byzantine
Çimpe/Tzympe Castle (2 km southwest of Bolayır
along the former highway, past the cemetery. This
abandoned road only very partially retains its origi-
nal surface material and is full of potholes, so best
not to be attempted by a low-clearance car. No
public transport to the site). While what is left of
the castle is architecturally not very remarkable and
mostly of reconstructions dating back to 19th cen-
tury, it, unsurprisingly for a medieval castle, occu-
pies the highest hill around and has views of both
the Gulf of Saros (Aegean Sea) to north, and the Sea
of Marmara to south. Despite the historical signif-
icance of the site, it’s the feeling of desolation that
reigns here most, and it is very likely that you will
be the only visitor of the place (free of charge).
• Çardak to south across the Dardanelles is a sea-

Chapter 130
Gokceada
Gökçeada is an island in Turkey. It is located north of 130.2.2 By boat

the entrance of Dardanelles Strait, in the Aegean Sea.
There are ferries from two points in the mainland: Ka-
batepe, which is on the western coasts of Gallipoli penin-
130.1 Understand sula, or from the harbour of Çanakkale city. From
Çanakkale, there is a ferry only once a day (or once every
two days in winter). Kabatepe has more voyages. The
Gökçeada is the largest island of Turkey with a surface of island is 11 nautical miles away from Kabatepe, while
279 square kilometers. The island is very mountainous. 32 nautical miles from Çanakkale (Çanakkale-Gökçeada
Cape Avlaka, near Uğurlu, is the westernmost point of voyage takes about three and a half hours). There are car
the island, and of Turkey as well. ferries at both lines.
In ancient times, it was believed that Greek sea god Posei- Ferries from both Kabatepe and Çanakkale arrive at
don rested his horses in the deep sea between Gökçeada Kuzulimanı Harbour on the island, which lies 4 km east
and the Greek island of Samothrace, which is to the north of island capital (Merkez). Minibuses for Merkez, Yeni-
of Gökçeada. bademli, and Kaleköy will be waiting just outside the jetty
The former name of the island, İmroz, which derived upon the arrival of the ferry.
from its Greek name (Imvros), was officially changed Keep in mind that some scheduled voyages may be can-
to Gökçeada (which the island is best known in Turk- celled, especially during winter and during the seasonal
ish nowadays) in 1970s, in light of deteriorating Turkish- storms which generally occur at about the same date ev-
Greek relations in the context of Cyprus dispute. In an- ery year.
cient times, the island also was known as Imbros.
The island has a small Greek community, about 250
mostly old people, scattered in a number of villages.
Though, in summers, number of Greeks on the island 130.2.3 By car
rises because many families essentially from Gökçeada,
but living in Greece now, return to their houses for vaca- It’s easier to get to Kabatepe port from Istanbul or Eu-
tion (or to visit their grandparents). The rest of the popu- rope. It’s nearer, and you don’t need to get into (and
lation is mainly comprised of recent immigrants from far wait in the queue for) the Dardanelles ferry (Eceabat-
away places in Turkey and military personnel. Çanakkale). You can reach Kabatepe by following
The island is a part of Çanakkale Province. “Kabatepe-Gökçeada” signs you will see on the highway
(D550/E87/E90) after you have left Gelibolu/Gallipoli
town about 40 km behind, before arriving in Eceabat.
130.2 Get in
130.2.1 By plane 130.2.4 By bus
There is an airport in Gökçeada (imroz) near the province When going by bus, the situation is the opposite of going
center. Borajet and Seabird airways are flying this island. by car. It is best to reach Çanakkale first, and to board
Borajet is flying to İstanbul Sabiha Gökçen airport on the ship there, since it may be a bit hard for travellers
Every Monday 19:00 and every Friday 14:30 and from without a vehicle to reach remote Kabatepe port. There
Sabiha Gökçen every Monday 17:30 and every Friday are however direct busses to Gökceada from Istanbul Bus
13:30 with ATR72 planes. Also Seabird Airlines flying station that board the ferry and drive through to Gökceada
to/from İstanbul Haliç and to/from Alaçatı sea side. town center.
346
130.5. DO 347
130.3 Get around • Tepeköy (Agridia in Greek) – about 10 km NW of

Merkez. Situated on a hill overlooking the turquoise
Public transport is severely limited on the island, even dam lake and surrounding hills around.
in summertime. There are minibuses several times a
day between the central town (Turkish: Merkez, offi- • Dereköy (Skinoudi in Greek) – about 15 km west of
cially known as Gökçeada town, the only settlement of Merkez. Situated on two slopes of a valley, parted
the island with a significant population) and the har- by a road in between (Merkez-Uğurlu road). This
bour (Kuzulimanı, 4 km east of Merkez). There are also village is said to be Turkey’s biggest village once,
minibuses once every two hours between central town with a population of 10,000. Now almost totally de-
and Kaleköy via Yenibademli. The minibus service be- serted. Be sure to visit the dark laundry building
tween central town and Uğurlu (via Dereköy, also passes –which is not used anymore- of this village.
through the junctions of the roads leading to Zeytinli and
Tepeköy) is once a day, as well as the minibus service be- All these villages (except Kaleköy’s coastal part) are situ-
tween central town and Aydıncık (also known as Kefalos) ated on the top of the hills and/or considerably away from
beach. the sea to escape pirate raids of the past.
Drivers, most of who themselves are visitors, are gener- Most parts of these villages are more or less deserted, and
ally friendly towards hitchhikers. They tend to stop even some parts are ruined. The three most liveliest villages
without a sign when passing by some unlucky visitor who are Kaleköy, Zeytinli, and Tepeköy.
doesn’t have the privilege of having a car or bike and
If you do not have a car or a taxi waiting for you, do
thus walking under the baking sun in some weird loca-
not forget to take at least three liters of bottled water
tion. However, this may not be true for wintertime when
(that means two large bottles) with you when visiting the
already empty island roads are more deserted.
villages since you may have to walk back to where you
Taxis are limited in number and at least twice or three are staying and there is no guarantee that you will find
times more expensive than other places in Turkey (for ex- a source of drinkable water (or somewhere selling it) in
ample, Istanbul). these mostly deserted villages or on the way.
Be sure to obtain (or take a look at) a good map of the Aydıncık beach (also known as Kefalos) and the salt lake
island before going there. By doing so, you will let direc-
– in the southeast part of the island, about 10 km from
tions and locations fit much more easily into your mind. Merkez. A low dune separates the sea and the lake, which
There are plenty of island maps available on the web. is very shallow, about 1 metre depth in its deepest parts.
In the olden times, before commercial packaged salt was
available, islanders were producing their own salt here.
130.4 See The lake smells funny because of some natural chemical
it contains, which is said to cure some skin problems. It
is a good idea to first have a mudbath in the lake and then
Atmospheric Greek villages of the island, namely rinse in the sea (Be careful, there are lots of sea urchins –
which can spoil your trip if prick on your skin, especially
• Bademli (Gliki in Greek, also known as Es- feet- around this area).
kibademli, i.e. Old Bademli) – about 3 km north Yıldızkoy beach – Can be reached by following the trail
of Merkez, 1 km south of Kaleköy. Situated on the starting behind Yenibademli (10 minutes). All around the
top of a hill. Balcony of the deserted village school cove is covered by mountains of black volcanic rocks.
offers a magnicifent view of mountains and the plain
of the island, the Aegean Sea, and the Greek island
of Samothrace.
130.5 Do
• Kaleköy (Kastron in Greek) – 4 km north of • Swim. You can virtually swim in anywhere of this
Merkez, this village is consisted of two parts (10 island’s coastline exceeding 100 km in length. The
minutes away from each other by walking): the sea is totally free of any kind of pollution. Some
newer coastal hood and the upper part on the top of areas near the northeastern portion of the island’s
a hill (Yukarı Kaleköy). There is a citadel (or what coasts has been declared Turkey’s first—and so far
is left of a citadel) in the upper part. There is no the only—underwater national park. While the cli-
admission fee, and it is virtually open 24 hrs a day mate of the island is usually windy (and, thus, the sea
since there is no gate nor a guard. is wavy), being surrounded by sea at all sides means
you can usually find at least a beach with calm(ish)
• Zeytinli (Agia Theodori in Greek) – 3 km NW of waters. The most popular beaches are Yıldızkoy
Merkez. Situated on a gentle slope surrounded by to north, Kefalos/Aydıncık to south, and Gizliliman
olive groves. close to the village of Uğurlu to west of the island.
348 CHAPTER 130. GOKCEADA
• Surf. Kefalos/Aydıncık beach has become fairly Merkez via a relatively flat road which you can easily walk
famous lately with surfers Turkish and interna- in a case that you couldn’t find any public transport. The
tional alike, especially those from Bulgaria and other guesthouses here are cheap as well (did cost 14 YTL after
Balkan countries. some bargaining (the initial price was 30 YTL) per night
to rent a house of two rooms, a bathroom and a kitchen
with cookware in summer 2002. The price should defi-
130.6 Buy nitely rise since that time, this was written just to give an
idea). In these guesthouses (Yenibademli), payments are
generally made daily and only in cash.
There is only one ATM on the island. It is located in the
Türkiye İş Bankası‘s local branch (in Merkez). Always
have an extra amount of cash with you while on the is- • Anemos Hotel, 98 Yukarı Kaleköy (at the upper
land, since ferry can be cancelled because of bad weather side of Kaleköy), ☎ +90-554-541-47-37. Boutique
any time (very rarely happens in summer, though) and the hotel with a pool and restaurant. Each room is dec-
ATM may not work (or might not accept your card). orated with artworks and stones from the island.
• Zeus Bungalow Hotel, Kuzulimanı (very close to

130.7 Eat the harbour where ferries from the mainland an-
chors), ☎ +90 286 887 33 32-35. € 21/29 with
breakfast/with breakfast and dinner per person.
There are quite cheap restaurants in Merkez and Kaleköy.
Some of them offer breakfast too. Or alternatively, you
can pick some blackberry and figs from one of island’s It is possible to camp in almost anywhere on the island.
many unowned trees, buy a bread and some feta cheese Common sense requires camping considerably away from
from the village stall, and ask the landlord/landlady of any house or public spaces in the villages, from olive- and
your guesthouse for some fresh tomatoes, green peppers, vineyards which look well-tended around the villages, and
and grapes from the garden (they’ll be happy to give you more than considerably away from military property (See
away some for free) and here you have a Mediterranean Respect section). If you want to be on the totally secure
breakfast! side, there is also a campground in Aydıncık beach, which
also has a little stall which offers basic necessities such as
Despite being an island, fish is neither abundant nor very snacks and soft drinks.
cheap. Islanders seem to have a preference on mutton.
130.10 Respect
130.8 Drink
Many parts of the island is military property. To avoid
• Barba Yorgo in Tepeköy is a famous Greek tavern.
trouble, do not enter or photograph the areas enclosed
by obvious barbed wires and those signed with the red
• Don’t miss to drink a cup of special Turkish coffee boards with a soldier illustration on you’ll see pretty much
at Madam’s (Madam’ın Yeri) in Zeytinli. The lady around.
who was preparing and serving the coffee deceased
a few years ago, but her son is keeping the tradition.
130.11 Connect
130.9 Sleep Tourism information office – in Kaleköy, tel +90 286
887 28 00
You can stay either in a few hotels located in some
of the villages (especially in Kaleköy), or rent one of
the many guesthouses (pansiyon) in Yenibademli (3 km 130.11.1 Telephone
to Merkez, situated in the lowland between Bademli
and Kaleköy). Yenibademli’s guesthouses are terrible The area code for the island (as well as other parts of
in terms of architecture (same-looking concrete boxes Canakkale province) is 286.
rowed in a number of parallel streets), but you can find a
room (or rent a whole house) at any time of the year with-
out prior booking. Another advantage of Yenibademli is 130.12 Cope
that it is just a few steps away (yes, literally, there is a
sign on the road which proclaims you are out of Yeni-
bademli and at the same time you have entered Kaleköy) 130.13 Go next
from Kalelöy. Yenibademli is also only 3 km away from
Chapter 131
Keşan
Keşan is a city in Eastern Thrace, NW of Turkey. It’s lo- 131.5 Buy

cated on a junction on which roads from four cardinal di-
rections intersect (west from Greece, east from Istanbul, There are two supermarkets (big-box store type) located
south from Çanakkale/Aegean coasts, and north from on the opposite sides of major crossroad there.
Edirne).
131.6 Eat
131.1 Get in
If you are in for a quick bite while on the way, there is a
Big Burger restaurant next to the large supermarket on
131.1.1 by car the side of the big crossroad.
This is the first major Turkish town on the highway when

arriving in Turkey from Greece. It’s only about 20 km 131.7 Drink
away from the border. From Istanbul in the east, it’s about
a three-hour drive away (about 210 km) on a straight and
wide road (two lanes per direction). 131.8 Sleep
131.9 Connect
131.1.2 by bus
There are lots of buses (about once every 30 minutes) 131.10 Go next
from Istanbul and Edirne during daytime. Keşan’s main
bus station (otogar) is located in the outskirts of the city, • Enez — town on the Aegean coast about 60 km to
near a highway, but there are free courtesy minibuses southwest, with long sandy beaches and a Byzantine
(which your bus company provides) and public minibuses citadel
to take you from there to city centre. Most buses between
the main European side bus station in Istanbul (Esenler
Otogar) and Canakkale on the Dardanelles Straights stop
here. A major bus company on this route is Truva Tur-
izm. Buses go each direction frequently and it is possible
to buy a ticket with Kesan as your destination. Updated
21 April 2012.
131.2 Get around
131.3 See
131.4 Do
349
Chapter 132
Kirklareli
Kırklareli is a city in Eastern Thrace, NW of Turkey. to the main road, and then taking a minibus to Edirne’s
It’s located in the northern part of the region, near the bus station (otogar).
Bulgarian border.
132.2 Get around

132.1 Get in
132.3 See
132.1.1 By car
Kırklareli lies on the junction of highways D020 (which 132.4 Do

leads to Edirne in the west) and D555/E87, which leads
to Babaeski in the south—where it connects to D100
and O-3/E80 which leads to Istanbul in the southeast—
132.5 Buy
and Dereköy border post on Turkish-Bulgarian border to
north. 132.6 Eat
132.1.2 By train 132.7 Drink
132.8 Sleep
132.9 Connect
(+90) 288 is city’s telephone code.
132.10 Go next
• Igneada to the east, on the coast of Black Sea, is a
town known for its long and almost desolate beaches,
lush forests, and many lakes. A trip there can pos-
sibly be combined with a visit to Dupnisa Cave and
The railway station, now in disuse to medieval foundry in Demirköy on the way.
All maps to the region show the railway line branching • If Kırklareli is the first Turkish city on your route,
off from the main Thracian line (between Istanbul and you will possibly want to head to Istanbul next.
Edirne) and terminating in the city, but it has not seen However, with a short de-tour on your way, you may
regular service since 1992. The railway station still has visit Vize, which with its well-preserved Byzantine-
(limited) staff and is perfectly safe to visit, though. era cathedral (albeit functioning as a mosque now),
can serve as a good entrée to Byzantine heritage,
As such, of the nearby stations with regular passenger ser- which awaits you in a much grander way in Istan-
vices, Edirne remains the one with the easiest connections bul.
to Kırklareli—however, even this would require walking
350
Chapter 133
Kiyikoy
Kıyıköy is a town located on Eastern Thrace’s Black 133.4 See

Sea coast (NW of Istanbul) in Turkey. It’s still known
as Midye, which is derived from town’s Greek name • St Nicholas Monastery (Aya Nikola Manastırı) is a
(Medea), more than as Kıyıköy among its locals. quite small religious complex engraved into a rocky
slope of a hill in the forest, about 15-30 minutes
walk from town centre, near the bank of the stream.
133.1 Understand There are signs near the city gate, indicating the path
which leads to the monastery.
The town is located on a peninsular hill between two • Red city walls and gate to the town centre.
rivers and the sea. Both sides of the streams are sandy
beaches. Behind the town is forest. • Traditional architecture of town houses.
133.2 Get in 133.5 Do
133.2.1 By bus 133.6 Buy

There are buses approximately once every two hours dur-
ing daytime from Saray and Vize, both of which have di- 133.7 Eat
rect bus connection from Istanbul.
133.8 Drink
133.2.2 By car
• Marina Cafe & Bar (on the tip of the vil-
From Istanbul (2-2½ hr), take O-3/E80 motorway/toll- lage/peninsula, edge of the cliffs), ☎ +90-544-368-
way to west, quit the motorway at ‘Çerkezköy’ exit, and 06-05, e-mail: iletisim@kiyikoymarina.com. Cafe
follow the signs for ‘Saray’ afterwards. After arriving in with a wooden open-air terrace offering a wonder-
Saray, signs to be followed will say ‘Kıyıköy’. ful view of the sea and the fishermen wharf below
and the rocky/mountainous shore ahead. Hot, soft
From north (Kırklareli) and west, head to Vize first, and alcoholic drinks. Hot drinks from 1 TL.
which lies around 20 km west of Kıyıköy and the starting
point of other road leading to Kıyıköy.
133.9 Sleep
133.2.3 By train
There are a couple of guesthouses (pansiyon) in the town.
Nearest train station is in Çerkezköy (three daily connec- Going rate per person is about 20 TL.
tions with Istanbul). From there, you should take a bus to
Saray, and then transfer to another one for Kıyıköy.
133.10 Connect
133.3 Get around Town’s telephone code is 288 (+90 288 when calling from
out of Turkey).
351
352 CHAPTER 133. KIYIKOY
133.11 Go next
• Kastro (also known as Çamlıkoy or Kasatura
Bay) on the Black Sea coast to the south (via road to
Saray, watch for ‘Kastro’ signs) has streams, a ver-
dant forest, and a golden-yellow beach with an en-
demic sand crocus species.
• Igneada on the Black Sea coast to the north (via

Vize) is a town known for its lush forests, lakes, and
kilometers-long beach.
Chapter 134
Marmara Ereğlisi
Marmara Ereğlisi (pronounced mar-mah-rah eh-reh- 134.2.2 By car

lee-see) is a coastal town with a population of about 7,000
in Eastern Thrace, NW of Turkey. The town lies close to D110/E84 highway between
Istanbul (90 km to east) and Tekirdağ (40 km to west).
134.2.3 By boat
134.1 Understand
Despite being a coastal town, there are no scheduled ferry
services to the town and quite frankly there is not some-
Marmara Ereğlisi occupies a triangular peninsula with a
where suitable to anchor if you even arrive by your own
‘hook’ attached on its tip on the northern coast of the
boat. You may better anchor your boat in Tekirdağ and
Sea of Marmara. In the past, the town was known as
then bus the rest 40 km overland instead.
Perinthos and subsequently as Herakleia, out of which
modern name derived. The town is locally known as
Ereğli, and Marmara, although an official part of the
name, serves as a disambiguator to differentiate the town 134.3 Get around
from other two Ereğlis in Turkey.
Although older parts of the town resemble more of a vil- Walk. Nowhere in the town is away more than 15 minutes
lage today, with roosters crowing here and there, during of walk from each other.
the days of Perinthos, town served as the capital of Ro-
man province of Thrakia, and it’s hard to believe but what
is today Istanbul was just a village administered from 134.4 See
Perinthos then.
The ostentatious days of Perinthos are long gone for more
than two millennia, so many of the historical sights de-
scribed here are slowly vanishing. In fact many can be dis-
tinguished from natural formations only by careful eyes
134.2 Get in and only people really interested in history may find them
worth of a check.
134.2.1 By bus/minibus
• Park. There is an open-air display of marble
Buses operating between Istanbul and Tekirdağ (and columns and sarcophagi –as is usual in any ancient
other places west lying on this route such as Malkara, Roman site- dating back to Perinthos in a park lo-
Keşan) accept passengers to Marmara Ereğlisi, but you cated a few metres down the town square towards
have to get off at the junction of the highway and access eastern waterfront. This is probably the historical
road to town centre (which is not a very big deal since you sight in best condition.
can walk to town centre in about 15-20 minutes at most). • Old town. Situated on the top of the hill rising on
Minibuses from Tekirdağ’s otogar, recognizable by their the tip of the peninsula, this is the oldest part of
red & white exteriors and which cost 5 TL one-way, on town. There are many houses around maintaining
the other hand make it all the way to the town centre. Greek architecture but most are very badly in need
They depart every 15 minutes daytime and 30 minutes of a repair. One exception is Constantine’s Res-
in the evening between 6:30AM and 10:30PM and a trip idence (Konstantin’in Evi), a stone two-floor man-
takes around 50 minutes. sion known by its former owner’s name. It’s situated
353
354 CHAPTER 134. MARMARA EREĞLISI
near the western coast, a block or so down the town 134.5 Do

square.
• Take a bottle of wine, go to the amphitheatre and
• City walls. Most of the old town is surrounded by enjoy it, perhaps against the sunset. The amphithe-
ancient city walls, though in most parts they resem- atre is so beautifully located that the sun sets exactly
ble more of a somewhat high garden fence rather in the same direction the amphitheatre faces, beyond
than grandiose city walls. You may occasionally spot the sea.
a (largely ruined) tower here and there if you walk
around them a bit.
134.6 Buy
• Roman breakwater. Located on the western coast,
you can more easily spot it from the top of the cliff • Bank. Ziraat Bankası has a branch in the town
as it appears as random rocks on two straight rows square, just opposite the little otogar of minibuses.
lying parallel to each other when you hit to the beach
next to it. Nice to watch the cormorants playing with
the waves though. • Supermarket. The national chain BİM has a super-
market on the street on the eastern waterfront.
• Amphitheatre. You will not find the usual marble
seats as they are covered by grass and earth several
feet thick. However the amphitheatral form of half- 134.7 Eat
moon ascending from a stage is still clearly distin-
guishable, in fact it looks more majestic with the
grass and all. To get there from the town centre,
134.8 Drink
walk uphill through the old town, and as you come
to the edge of the cliff overlooking the sea, turn left 134.9 Sleep
(towards east). You’ll walk on an unpaved path for
about 15-20 minutes passing beside, below and over
As soon as you enter the town, you’ll see lots of signs
some remnants of city walls. The amphitheatre is
for hotels (otel) and guesthouses (pansiyon). Some may
located right below the lighthouse on the top of the
be closed for winter, however, there are ones open year-
hill: Take the lighthouse (which will appear after
round on the eastern waterfront.
you walked for about 5-10 min) as a bearing if it’ll
make it easier for you. Don’t ask the locals about If you are into camping, you can find some good and
amphitheatre, they seem to be even unaware of its discrete spots away from houses to pitch your tent near
existence and when asked about where the tiyatro the southern coast of the peninsula, over the cliff on the
is, they show the way to the modern cultural centre way to amphitheatre. Aim for areas covered with wild
which has a theatre stage. It offers a very beautiful grass, not wheat fields or other cultivated places.
view of the sea located below the cliff next to the
amphitheatre.
134.10 Stay safe
• Tumulii (singular: tumulus, in Turkish: tümülüs).
These are conical not-so-high hills, rising suddenly There are lots of stray dogs around (particularly in win-
out of ground and somewhat natural at first glance. ter). The worst they are capable of doing is barking at
They are actually man-made, remained from Thra- you and giving a little chase it seems, though.
cians, the native folk of this region before the ar-
rival of Greeks and Romans among others. They
were erected to serve as mausoleum for Thracian
kings and nobles (think of them as local variation
134.11 Connect
of the pyramids, though these two are historically
unrelated). Although the tumulii are scattered all The telephone code of the town is (+90) 282.
around Thrace, the area about 5 km north of Mar-
mara Ereğlisi has an exceptionally high number of
tumulii, as Perinthos was an important centre of the 134.12 Go next
region even before Romans. The tumulii 5 km out
of town may not worth the trouble to go there, so you
may take a distant look at a quite a few of them in the
same frame when returning from the amphitheatre,
just before entering the old town and immediately
after the path swings to right (towards north).
Chapter 135
Tekirdağ
gether with him Kelemen Mikes, the writer of Letters

from Turkey (Törökországi levelek in Hungarian), which
is one of the milestones of Hungarian literature, lived in
Tekirdağ until 1761, when he died.
Tekirdağ since 1923 is a part of the Republic of Turkey.
The city is the provincial capital of Tekirdağ Province,
which is named after the city.
The city is surrounded by the Sea of Marmara on one
side, and by sunflower and grain fields on the other. On
the hillsides to the southwest, viniculture is an important
activity.
Governor’s Office in downtown Tekirdağ

135.1.1 Climate
Tekirdağ (pronounced TEH-keer-daa) is a city of
108,000 (2000 census) in European Turkey, on the north- Local climate is a curious mix of Mediterranean climate
ern shoreline of the Sea of Marmara. Tekirdağ is 132 km of the regions to the south and continental climate of
west of Istanbul, the biggest city of Turkey. the inland regions to the north, with the rain patterns re-
sembling the Mediterranean climate, while temperature
patterns are comparable to the continental one — mod-
135.1 Understand erately dry and hot summers (temperatures may rise to
35°C) and rainy, occasionally snowy, and cold winters
(temperatures may drop to −8°C; however with the effect
Tekirdağ was first founded as “Byzanthe” by Thracians.
of relative humidity, it can even feel bitterly colder than
The actual location of first Byzanthe was what is now Bar-
that) in short. However unlike the typical Mediterranean
baros, a village 9 km southwest of Tekirdağ. It was then
climate, it can rain heavily even during the hottest month
colonised by Greeks from the Aegean island of Samos.
(August), although these showers do not last more than
After the split of Roman Empire into two parts, Tekirdağ
20 minutes at most. Though it’s also possible that you
remained in Byzantine hands and in 14th century cap-
can encounter consecutive weeks without a single drop
tured by Ottoman Turks who gave the city the name “Ro-
of rain.
dosçuk”. Its name underwent several changes and took
its current form in 1927, in the early years of Turkish Autumns are mild, long and very nice. It is the best time
Republic. to swim—sea is warm, just like the air is—since the sea
is usually cruelly wavy during summer but is very docile
Although it is not the case with many languages today,
during September.
Tekirdağ used to be called “Rodosto” in several Euro-
pean languages, after its Latin name used in Roman pe-
riod, which itself derives from “Rhaidestos”, the Greek
name of the city, long after this official renaming took 135.2 Get in
place. In fact, Tekirdağ is still called “Rodostó” in Hun-
garian. 135.2.1 By plane
This is the city where Hungarian prince and indepen-
dence movement leader Francis II Rákóczi (also known The nearest international airport is Çorlu Airport (about
as II. Rákóczi Ferenc in Hungarian) lived for fifteen years 50 km to Tekirdağ) but it is reserved only for flights from
(between 1720 and 1735) while in exile and died. To- the ex-Soviet countries, as some of the airway companies
355
356 CHAPTER 135. TEKIRDAĞ
of these countries spell peril on the Atatürk International If you enter Turkey at Kapitan Andreevo/Kapıkule
Airport with their aging plane stock and pilots insisting border gate (NW of Edirne), first by-pass Edirne via the
on speaking only in Russian. (Çorlu Airport tel +90 282 ring road (E80, toll-free, signs are green), then either take
682 40 36 - 10 lines) D100 highway by quitting the E80 after you left Edirne
So, for most flights Atatürk International Airport behind (the second exit after you entered the ring-road)
(IST) in Istanbul is the nearest international airport avail- or continue onto O3/E80 motorway (toll-way), if you are
able (130 km to Tekirdağ). Once in the Atatürk Inter- on the motorway leave it in Lüleburgaz exit (there are
national Airport take the metro (called as “light rail” in Lüleburgaz and Muratlı signs there), you’ll reach D100
here, take the direction towards Çorlu/Istanbul. Af-
the signage) and go to Otogar to board a bus heading for
Tekirdağ. ter you drove about ten minutes away from Lüleburgaz,
you’ll come to a junction, signs will say Muratlı/Tekirdağ.
Turn that way (right). You are now on D565 and will
135.2.2 By train reach Tekirdağ in about 40 minutes. Total distance from
Kapıkule to Tekirdağ is about 160 km.
The construction of the branch line between the city If you enter Turkey at Tirnovo/Dereköy border gate
and the main Istanbul–Edirne line has been completed (north of Kırklareli), take the D555/E87 (that’s the only
recently—which marks the extension of the national rail way already), drive on it until you are in Babaeski (do not
network for the first time within the last 40 years in enter the motorway shown by green “Istanbul” signs be-
Turkey—and now the city station welcomes comfortable fore you reach Babaeski). In Babaeski you’ll come across
and fairly modern railcars (a single coach train with no a roundabout, turn around it to the Lüleburgaz/Istanbul
locomotives—think of a bus running on railtracks) sev- direction (blue signs). Now you are on D100. Keep on
eral times a day (mostly during morning and evening it until you are about ten minutes away from Lüleburgaz,
hours) from nearby towns of Muratlı to north and Çorlu you’ll come to a junction, signs will say Muratlı/Tekirdağ.
to northeast, both of which are on the main trunk line. Turn that way (right). You are now on D565 and will
Railcars from Çorlu also call at Muratlı station. A trip reach Tekirdağ in about 40 minutes. Total distance from
from Muratlı takes 25 minutes and costs 2 TL pp. Dereköy to Tekirdağ is about 155 km.
When approaching from Istanbul, a transfer at either Mu- From Greece – Enter Turkey at Peptos/İpsala border
ratlı or Çorlu is necessary. The afternoon train (departing gate, take the only road available there (D110/E90, after
at 3:50PM, going all the way to Kapıkule at Bulgarian Keşan D110/E84). By never turning right or left you will
border via Edirne) from Istanbul’s Sirkeci station is es- be in Tekirdağ within one to one and a half hours. Total
pecially useful, as it arrives in Muratlı at 7:12PM (usu- distance is about 110 km.
ally with no delays) and the railcar to Tekirdağ departs at
7:20PM from Muratlı. Istanbul–Muratlı ride costs 8.50
TL pp, or 6.75 TL if you're under 26 years of age. 135.2.4 By bus
Tekirdağ's newly built and small station lies about 3-4 km
west of city centre, on the edge of city and next to the There are many bus companies operating between Istan-
highway west. Minibuses, which wait for passengers right bul’s Otogar (main bus station) and Tekirdağ. Just look
in front of the station in accordance with the train arrival around in the Otogar and soon you’ll see word Tekirdağ
schedule, connect the station with city centre for 1.50 TL on one of the windows. However, some companies op-
pp, taking 10 minutes. If you're deadly on budget, walk- erating further than Tekirdağ also add Tekirdağ on their
ing is also viable, which would take around 50 minutes windows and their service may be inferior. The most pop-
along some wide but noisy (due to traffic) sidewalks. ular company is arguably İstanbul Seyahat (tel 444 59
59, dialed without a prefix anywhere in Turkey except
cellphones from which you should dial +90 212 444 59
135.2.3 By car 59), but there are many more others. It is possible to
find a bus to Tekirdağ about every 15 minutes, even ev-
From Istanbul – first take D100 highway or O3/E80 mo- ery 5 minutes in summertime. Direct bus travel with the
torway (toll-way), if you are on motorway leave it in Kı- Asian side of Istanbul is less frequent, only once every few
nalı exit (there are Tekirdağ signs there), and at Kınalı hours. From Istanbul’s Otogar to Tekirdağ doesn’t nor-
junction follow Tekirdağ signs (although the road num- mally take more than two hours, but, especially in sum-
bers are not shown on the signs there, the road that you mertime, because many people heading for their “holi-
will enter into is D110/E84). The pavement quality be- day homes” on the way to Tekirdağ use these services,
tween Kınalı and Tekirdağ deterioted within the last few stops can be tiresome, and can lengthen the travel time
years, but long sections of it are 4-lane (two for one di- up to four hours when complemented with congested traf-
rection and two for the other). Total distance is 132 km fic. There is normally no scheduled stop on the Istanbul-
and can be covered within one and a half to two hours. Tekirdağ bus lines for a break.
From Bulgaria – There are two ways: Ticket fares from/to Istanbul are uniform across all bus
companies and are 15 TL as of Sept 2010 (and a few There is also a marina in the city. As of December 2007,
liras more from slightly further away Asian Side of Is- its construction seems to be completed but it seems it is
tanbul). Because of rivalry, some companies sometimes not accepting any boats or yachts yet.
lower their prices to around 10 TL, but these promotions There is a customs office in the bigger harbour (2 km
are only occasional. west of city centre). You can have your passport stamped
It may be wise to book your seat a week beforehand dur- if you are arriving by your own boat and haven’t disem-
ing the peak season (July–August) if you are going to ei- barked in Turkey yet. Be aware that it’s illegal to land on
ther Turkish soil before your passport has an entrance stamp
travel from Istanbul to Tekirdağ on Fridays – which can be obtained from most visited marinas and
major harbours, such as this one.
and/or
travel from Tekirdağ to Istanbul on Sundays
135.2.6 By thumb
Some companies deny to book a seat during peak season,
instead, insist on selling the ticket right away. Along the highway (E84 is the European road number
Buses coming from Istanbul first enter Tekirdağ’s otogar, while D110 is the national one) which traverses all along
which is very tiny compared with Istanbul’s, and some the city and eventually reaches the Greco-Turkish border
proceed to outlying hoods of the city in the west, and one side and Istanbul (and onto Asia) on the other, there is
some finish their journey right there. In summertime alan abundance (several of them even within 30 minutes) of
most all buses end their trip in Kumbağ via Tekirdağ’s trucks bearing Macedonian, Bulgarian, and Iranian plate
otogar and the avenue at the shoreline. To go to the down- numbers, day and night. There are also many cars with
town area (Çarşı, pronounced “char-sha”), you should ei- Greek plate numbers. So it may be easy to reach to/from
ther get off the bus at the shore and walk uphill for about Tekirdağ from/to these countries by hitchhiking.
10 minutes or take one of the public busses (their stop is
right next to the otogar).
Buses heading for Istanbul from Çanakkale and Gelibolu 135.3 Get around
passes through Tekirdağ, so it is possible to board an
Istanbul bus from these places and get off in Tekirdağ. Tekirdağ, especially the downtown area in where almost
When buying the ticket or paying the fare inside the bus all the sights are, is fairly convenient to explore on foot.
tell them that you’ll get off in Tekirdağ, not Istanbul, a Nevertheless, city has a public transport system based on
journey which deserves a slightly lower fare than all the minibuses, some are public and run by the city council
way to Istanbul (about 3-4 YTL less than full price for while others are private. In any case, you don’t have to
Istanbul). have a ticket beforehand—there are no tickets even if you
One easy and cheap way reaching from Greece to Tekir- wish to have—and pay cash to the driver inside the vehi-
dağ by bus might be somehow to reach Keşan first, which cle.
is about 25 km away from Greco-Turkish border, then Public minibuses (recognizable by their navy blue
take a bus there coming from Çanakkale, Gallipoli or al- colour) have route numbers on the front, but it makes
ready has its terminus in Keşan and heading for Istanbul. no sense to memorize them since they are running be-
tween the otogar and different outlying residential hoods
-which are of no interest to the occasional traveller- usu-
ally via the city center. The private minibuses usually
135.2.5 By boat
don’t have route numbers, instead they are all painted dif-
ferent colours according to their routes. The two most
There are regular daily voyages from little harbour in the important routes for an ordinary traveller would be the
city centre to Marmara Island, Avşa Island, Erdek, and Barbaros-Kumbağ line, which is painted in light blue, and
Bandirma across the Sea of Marmara (at least in summer Değirmenaltı line which is painted in slightly greenish-
months). There is a ferry line to Gemlik on the SE coast yellow (There are actually three different lines using the
of the Sea of Marmara from the bigger and newer har- same slightly greenish-yellow colour and they line up to-
bour (2 km west of city centre). There is also a line to gether in pairs at the main stop in the city center. They
Karabiga on the SW coast of the Sea of Marmara, near all do run to the same direction but their terminii are
Çanakkale from the harbour of Barbaros, a village 9 km different points. Either carefully read the signs on the
SW of Tekirdağ. front window of the vehicle about where it goes to, or tell
There are also ro-ro (ferry) services direct to Trieste in the driver the place name you want to go, he will either
NE of Italy (near the Slovenian border) twice a week, make an approval gesture (shaking his head downwards)
but passengers without vehicles may not be accepted into or point to another minibus, which means “that one goes
these ferries. (Akport harbour tel +90 282 261 08 00 - 4 there”. These greenish-yellow minibuses are those ex-
lines) ceptional ones to have route numbers and #1 goes into
Değirmenaltı, so look for that. The same-colour #3 and went to Tekirdağ and drew illustrations of the inte-
#5 also stop at Maxi Mall, which is located at the entrance rior of house in 1906. The adjoining streets also
of the hood). housed a large Hungarian colony formed by people
All minibuses run on a fixed route and schedule, mostly following Francis II Rakoczi, but unfortunately no
in 10-minute intervals, however the interval frequency evidence of their existence left today. While you
drop late at night to once every 30 minutes. The last are around, don’t forget to check out the wooden
minibus for most lines is at midnight (3AM for Kumbağ ‘Szekely Gate’, carved in the traditional style of the
line during July and August) Szekely, the tribe of Tekirdağ’s Hungarian refugees.
It was erected in front of Rakoczi’s house in 2005.
Main stop for private minibuses is across the street from
Rüstem Paşa Mosque. They don’t have any standard stops
• Archaeology and Ethnography Museum (Arke-
other than this, they stop wherever a passenger raises his
oloji ve Etnografya Müzesi), Barbaros Caddesi 1 (on
hand to show he/she is going to board or wherever a pas-
the junction of Barbaros Caddesi and the lower end
senger inside shouts inecek var (pronounced ee-neh-djek
of Hüseyin Pehlivan Caddesi, that descenting street
vahr) to get off. Public minibuses only stop at standard
from the main street of downtown), ☎ +90 282 261
stops (none of them has an official name) and anyone who
20 82, fax: +90 282 261 53 68. Tu-Su 9AM-5PM.
is willing to get off next stop should push one of the but-
The exhibition of this museum, which is situated
tons around the back door to make sure the minibus will
in a building essentially built as the governor man-
stop and the door will open at the next stop.
sion in 1928, is mainly composed of the findings
Fees are standard (1.50 TL within the city borders, 2.50 of the excavations of Perinthos and numerous tu-
TL for Kumbağ) and no student discounts available. mulii in the region. The oldest objects in exhibition
Taxis are also available from many stands around the city. date back to 4500 BCE. Among the display is the
Please note that official rate for taxis is twice more expen- mummified (and reconstructed) body of Thracian
sive than the rate of those in Istanbul. king Kersepleptes. His body complete with crown,
clothes, and other remainings was excavated from a
For the villages and towns surrounding the city (for ex- tumulus located about 12 km to Tekirdağ. Upstairs
ample Şarköy), you can find busses at the otogar, or is dedicated to ethnography and there is a “tradi-
minibuses departing from shoreline or some other des- tional Tekirdağ room”. The garden of the museum
ignated stops around the city. contains many sarcophagi from ancient times and
many gravestones left by the city’s once numerous
Greek, Armenian and Latin populations. 2 TL.
135.4 See
• Rüstem Paşa Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii) – Al-
though little in terms of grandeur compared with his
some other works, the mosque is a work of Sinan,
probably the biggest architect of Ottoman Empire.
It was built in 1553. Next to the mosque is bedesten
–or bazaar. Actually, a replica of a bazaar, which
was constructed in 1980s. In its court, there is a
nice open-air cafe.
• Ertuğrul Neighbourhood Bazaar – This historical

building is also called bedesten but the renovation
works within hundreds of years has taken too much
from its original appearance. It now houses herbalist
shops. Near the Eski Mosque on the high street.
Rakoczi’s House
• Traditional Houses of Tekirdağ – There are many
18th and 19th century houses in the city spared from
• Rakoczi’s House (Rakoczi Müzesi/Rakoczi Mu- the fury of the bulldozer and concrete-mania. Most
seum), Barbaros Caddesi, Macar Sokak (on the first of them are wooden, and some are built of stone or
hill overlooking the sea; west of Museum of Ar- brick like traditional Mediterranean houses. How-
chaeology), ☎ +90 282 263 85 77. Tu-Su 9AM- ever, even most of the left ones are in a near, or al-
noon, 1PM-5PM. An 18th century Tekirdağ house most total ruin state. If you’d like to take a glance at
in which Francis II Rakoczi lived while in exile. The how Tekirdağ might look like, say a hundred years
house was restored in early 1980s almost totally the ago, you may have a walk in the streets of where
same as how it looked like when a Hungarian painter these houses are grouped together. There are two
135.5. DO 359
main parts of the city they stand: On the hill over- trees (platanus spp) planted by Hungarian president
looking the sea between otogar and the downtown; and other notables of the time when the park was
and the streets also overlooking the sea between opened (1990s).
Archeology and Ethnography Museum and Rakoczi
Museum.
135.5 Do
Hiking/Trekking – Mt Ganos to the southwest of the
city offers beautiful trails through its forests and shrub-
lands. Especially, the 20-km quite wide earth road on the
side of the mountain through a pine and oak forest oc-
casionally fragmanted by vineyards and the picturesque
village of Yeniköy, starting from Kumbağ and leading to
Uçmakdere, offers impressive views over the Sea of Mar-
mara and Marmara Islands. It can be hiked without the
need of a guide or a map as it is a very clearly obvious
road, has water sources located in a reasonable distance
away from each other (at 1st, 5th, and 11th kms at the
first 12-km section between Kumbağ and Yeniköy, and
a couple others at the dryer and less verdant 8-km sec-
tion between Yeniköy and Uçmakdere; however you can
make do with these sources unless at the peak of summer
heat), and can be done reasonably in a day (though re-
turning is problematic as Uçmakdere has very little public
transportation and offers no accommodation apart from
a campground). Note that the local military police (jan-
darma) in Kumbağ bars access to the road further than
3 km away from Kumbağ during some of the summer
weekends, so better done during weekdays (or start very
early in the morning, before the road is shut). If having
a car at your disposal, and one that is at least compatible
Statue of Kelemen Mikes located in the park
with non-surfaced roads (you won't need a 4x4, though),
you can do the same route, too, as the road primarily is
for vehicular traffic, however little traffic it may have.
• Namık Kemal’s House (Namık Kemal Evi), ☎ +90
282 262 91 28. Namık Kemal St 7 (behind the pres- Paragliding – Although not widely known, paragliding
idency of Namık Kemal University, the old building is also possible on the foothills of Mt Ganos. There is
across the street from City Council - Belediye) - A a take-off area near Yeniköy village (about 10 km away
replica of the house where Namık Kemal, a native from Kumbağ, about 30 km to Tekirdağ) and a landing
of the city and considered one of the national poets strip at the Ayvasıl beach, about halfway between the vil-
of Turkey, was born. Houses “Local History Asso- lages of Yeniköy and Uçmakdere. To go there, first, en-
ciation” inside. ter the Barbaros-Kumbağ road from Tekirdağ and after
about 1 km you left Barbaros behind, follow Naip signs
• Rakoczi Fountain (Rakoczi Çeşmesi) Mumcu in the fork (to right, there is also a “paragliding area” sign
Çeşme Rd – Been built by Rakoczi, this fountain there but only in Turkish), when you left Naip behind fol-
contains Latin and Ottoman Turkish inscriptions low the left sides twice in the forks and you’ll soon arrive
and situated between two old plane trees (platanus at Yeniköy. Around there you’ll see signs for both take-
spp) which might be planted by Francis II Rakoczi off and landing areas. Bring your equipment and food
himself. Once in the middle of the vineyards sur- and drink with you as you’re highly unlikely to find any
rounding the city, it is in the industrial zone of the once in Yeniköy.
city today, near the back gate of wine and raki fac- Windsurfing – Tekirdağ’s sea is usually very wavy and
tory. windy during summer, so it is a perfect place to windsurf.
• Barış ve Özgürlük Parkı – A quite large parkland • There is a funfair next to the Barış ve Özgürlük
near the sea (near the otogar and the marina). The Parkı at the east end of promenade. Not the biggest
park contains statues of Namık Kemal and Francis theme park in the world for sure, and neither it con-
II Rakoczi. There is also a statue of Kelemen Mikes, tains the most exciting rollercoaster, but it’s still fun
carved in wood in Hungarian style. There are plane with its usual rides of ferris wheel, and gondola and
the like. home. Tekirdağ raki can be bought at the sale shop of
the raki factory (about 2 km west of city centre, on the
highway to Keşan/Çanakkale) or any alcohol shop. Wine
135.6 Learn can also be bought from any alcohol shop too but it is
better to buy it from factories scattered around Şarköy-
Mürefte area.
Yelken Kulüp (on the west end of the shore promenade,
tel +90 282 261 44 66) offers windsurf classes in the
summer months. 135.7.1 Malls
Namık Kemal University, which has been founded in
2005 with its presidency in Tekirdağ has a faculty of agri- • Tekira, Hükümet Caddesi 304, Köprübaşı Mevkii
culture near Değirmenaltı which accepts exchange doc- (in the city centre), ☎ +90 282 260-11-22, fax: +90
torate students from around Europe but not offering much 282 260-11-33. 10AM-10PM daily. Tekira houses
else at the moment. clothing and electronics stores, fast-food joints, and
a large supermarket of Carrefour as well as a movie
theater. Free car-park.
135.7 Buy • Maxi Alışveriş Merkezi, Değirmenaltı, ☎ +90 282

293-13-30, fax: +90 282 293-13-43. 10AM-10PM
ATMs are mostly located along Hükümet St, the high daily. Housing a large supermarket of Migros, this
street of the downtown area. They are either on their own, mall located at the eastern end of the city just next
or located outside the banks (on the exterior walls). Keep to the highway to Istanbul is good to grab a quick
in mind that there is no ATM in Kumbağ! (many shops snack when driving to Istanbul. Free car-park.
accept credit cards though)
Money exchange is possible both at banks, exchange of-
fices, and jewellery shops located mainly in high street 135.8 Eat
(Hükümet St). Exchange offices are better, as they are
not as crowded as the banks are, and also you can see Tekirdağ köftesi (meat-ball) is a famous local delicacy.
the rates on the electronic boards they usually attach on There are even some people visiting the city from Istan-
their windows. Many shops accept only Turkish Lira. In bul at the weekends just to eat Tekirdağ köftesi. It is made
other places, accepted foreign currency is generally lim- of fatless meat and some spices added in (don’t worry
ited to Euro or American Dollars, and their rates are usu- if you are not used to spices, the Tekirdağ köftesi is not
ally lower than exchange offices. heavily-spiced unlike the Mid-Eastern fashion). It’s given
Karacakılavuz (pronounced ka-ra-DJA-ka-lah-vooz), a a cylindirical shape and grilled.
village about 20 km NW of Tekirdağ, produces hand-
made rugs, carpets, and handwoven bags. The village • Ozcanlar Restaurant, Hüseyin Pehlivan Cad.
was settled by Yörük, or nomadic Turkic people from 5 (on the street descending to the Archaeol-
Anatolia after the Ottoman conquest of Thrace (14th ogy Museum), ☎ +90 282 261 29 76, e-mail:
century). The villagers still weave the symbols they re- info@meshurozcanlarkofte.com. Özcanlar is one
tained from nomadic times on their handicraft. Kara- of the favourite restaurants specialized in Tekirdağ
cakılavuz handicrafts can be seen and bought at Provin- köftesi. A portion, which is consisted of 10 meat-
cial Directorate for Culture, which is located in the his- balls and hot sauce: 7-8 TL.
torical, brown-coloured brick building at about right the
midway between Museum of Archaeology and Ethnog- As Tekirdağ is a coastal city, it is possible round-the-
raphy and Rakoczi Museum. (Provincial Directorate for year to taste the fresh fish. Fish restaurants are mainly
Culture (İl Kültür Müdürlüğü) – Barbaros St. 5, tel +90 scattered around the shoreline promenade. For seafood,
282 262 60 12 or 261 88 28 fax +90 282 261 43 46) you may try Yelken Kulüp (on the west end of shoreline
In the industrial areas surrounding nearby Çorlu (about 40 promenade, tel +90 282 261 44 66) or İlhan Restaurant
km) are outlet stores and factory sale shops, many of (next to Yelken Kulüp, tel +90 282 261 15 07). Some
which offer tax-free/VAT refundable shopping (for for- fish restaurants doesn’t serve alcoholic beverages and state
eigners) for textile fabrics. They are cheaper than else- their position by locating big alkolsüz (“alcohol-free” in
where not only because there is no tax added, but also Turkish) signs above their entrances. It is almost certain
because the sellers are also the producers. Don’t forget that the fish restaurants without such a sign serves alco-
to obtain the necessary papers you’ll need to have to get holic drinks.
the money you paid for the tax back when you’re leaving It is also easy to find restaurants offering “national” fast-
Turkey. food like kebab and döner. However, food in the cheap
You may also buy Tekirdağ raki or wine to bring back döner restaurants may be low-quality, but if you are more
135.10. SLEEP 361
interested in getting your stomach full cheaply (some to take a look at how the interior of these local
döner and tomato slices inside a half-bread sandwich traditional buildings is like.
costs 0.50-1.00 YTL) rather than your appetite, they may • Kahve Bahane, Atatürk Bulvarı (on the
be worth a visit. main coastal avenue , between otogar and
There are also a few American-style fast food restaurants Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the main square leading
offering pizzas and hamburgers too. Don’t expect to find to the city centre), ☎ +90 282 262-67-50. A
Mc or Burger King (at least in downtown). The ones you finely decorated cafe with an open-air section
will see are local brands. by the sidewalk.
Although traditional food in this part of Turkey is mainly • Liman Çay Bahçesi (at the fishermen’s
dependent on vegetables with little or no meat added, they wharf). It’s easy to think of Tekirdağ as a little
can be only found inside the households. If you are a veg- fishermen town rather than a city of 108,000
etarian, you may try pizzerias (all of them has vegetarian people while having a coffee in completely
pizzas on their menus). open-air Liman Çay Bahçesi (i.e. “Quay Tea-
Garden”) which commands a view of a part of
the city as well as the fishermen’s wharf next
135.8.1 Desserts to which it’s located. 1 TL for a glass of tea.
• Rıhtım (on the waterfront, east of the harbour
It seems local desserts are of Balkan (Southeastern Eu- towards marina, just behind the tourism infor-
rope) origin, as many towns and cities in western Turkey mation office). A cafe right at the waterfront
which are predominantly inhabited by descedants of peo- lined with palm trees. Also has a smoking-
ple who immigrated from Balkans to Turkey during 19th free, fireplace-heated semi-open air section.
and early 20th century take pride in being their “real” This cafe also serves hubble bubble or nargile.
origin. Two most noteworthy are höşmerim, also called Hot drinks from 1 TL, sandwiches from 2 TL.
peynir helvası, which is made of cereals with some cheese
dissolved and mixed in it (best to eat with some ice-cream • Nightlife — While Tekirdağ is one of the cities
added on top) and Hayrabolu tatlısı (also called Kemal- with the highest alcohol consumption per capita in
paşa tatlısı in some other places) which is soft, cookie- Turkey, there is no real nightlife in the city in a
like dough rested in syrup. typical sense, only a few local pubs and discos are
The national Turkish desserts are readily available in any present. Discos are located in the first street run-
dessert shop. ning parallel to Atatürk Blvd (you can enter from
Cumhuriyet Sq, the main entrance of downtown
area from shoreline). The pubs on Şükran Sokak
(also known as Sinemalar Sokağı) might be good
135.9 Drink places to observe the locals but these kinds of places
traditionally tend to be men-only. Yelken Kulüp
• Tekirdağ raki — Connaisseurs say the best raki, (on the west end of the shoreline promenade, tel +90
Turkish national drink, is the one that is produced 282 261 44 66) should also be mentioned as well. It
in Tekirdağ’s raki and wine factory (located about has an indoor hall with a full view of the sea, and
2 km west of downtown). Although there are no there is live music (generally local soft-rock cover
signs on the bottles that guarantee it was produced bands) at some of the nights every week. Half a litre
in Tekirdağ, you can be pretty sure that any bottle (=500 mL, roughly a pint) of beer costs 8 TL there.
you have bought in Tekirdağ is locally produced.
• Wine — Hills to the southwest of Tekirdağ supply 135.10 Sleep

40% of the annual wine production of Turkey. Even
cheap ones deserves a try. There are some hotels around the shoreline promenade
and around the high street in downtown. The ones around
• Cafés and tea-gardens — Tekirdağ has many cafés the shoreline promenade should be better, they at least
and tea-gardens, both indoors and outdoors. Some have a spectacle of the sea. Also downtown hotels may
of them deserving a mention are as follows: not guarantee a good sleep early in the morning as many
buses and cars carrying the locals to their workplaces will
• Cezve Cafe, Eski Bedesten Sokak, 32 (on the be passing nearby.
second street to left when walking downhill on
Hüseyin Pehlivan Caddesi towards the Archae- • Golden Yat Hotel, Yalı Caddesi 42 (close to
ology Museum), ☎ +90 282 263-00-00. A shore, just next to Rodosto Hotel), ☎ +90 282
cafe located in a renovated historical 3-storey 261-10-54, fax: +90 282 261-91-66, e-mail:
wooden building. It’s worth entering even just info@goldenyat.com. Rooms with air-con, wireless
internet access, and TV. Some rooms have a balcony 135.11.2 Telephone
with a sea view. From 80 TL/120 TL single/double
rooms. Telephone booths are pretty much everywhere in down-
town area and on the shoreline. Telephone cards are
• Hacıoğlu Hotel, Peştemalcı Caddesi 19 (in the city available at the post office, newspaper/tobacco kiosks and
centre), ☎ +90 282 261-10-32. Türk Telekom shops, in which it is also possible to make
a call and then pay cash.
• Karaevli Hotel, Hükümet Caddesi 116 (on the The area code of Tekirdağ (including its environs) is 282.
main street of city centre), ☎ +90 282 261-80-50, When calling Tekirdağ from out of Turkey dial +90 282.
+90 282 263-19-35. Rooms with internet access,
central heating, air-con, en-suite bathrooms, and
135.11.3 Internet
TV. Breakfast is included.
You can find many internet cafes in the streets leading
• Rodosto Hotel, İskele Caddesi 34, ☎ +90 282 to/parallel with the high street in the downtown area. If
263-37-01, fax: +90 282 263-37-05, e-mail: you cannot find, ask a local youngster. All of these in-
info@rodostohotel.com. Located in a historical ternet cafes have speedy DSL connections (some even ri-
building dating back to 1881, close to the shore. val with the internet cafe at the next door by sticking ads
which declare their DSL speed on their windows). An
• Hotel Tuna Palas, Hüseyin Pehlivan Caddesi 12 (in hourly connection at these cafes costs about 1.50 YTL.
the city centre; on the downhill street leading to Ar- Most also serve some soft drinks and snacks too.
chaeological Museum), ☎ +90 282 261-11-25, +90
282 262-01-27. • Interland, Hüseyin Pehlivan Caddesi (in the lower
end of Hüseyin Pehlivan Caddesi, that downhill street
There are also many hotels, apart hotels (flats for rent for leading to Archaeology Museum), ☎ +90 282 264-
short periods, look for the word kiralık, which means “for 22-34. Internet cafe with DSL connection in a cen-
rent” in Turkish, on the windows or on the signs along the tral location.
main street of the town) and pensions in Kumbağ. All
of them are in walking distance to the beaches, a few of
them have swimming-pools as well. Booking for hotels 135.12 Stay safe
and pensions in Kumbağ is only needed for weekends dur-
ing peak season (July–August). Keep in mind that many Avoid Aydoğdu Quarter, which is predominantly inhab-
of them are closed between October and April. ited by Roma people and recent immigrants from eastern
Villa or flat rental is also possible in Değirmenaltı, a parts of Turkey, especially at night. (It is already out-
hood 8 km east of city center, situated between the shore- of-the-beaten-path anyway, not near the shoreline, not in
line and the highway to Istanbul. the downtown, don’t get yourself worried unnecessarily,
no way you can mistakenly break into the Quarter while
sightseeing). All in all, Tekirdağ is generally a very safe
city.
135.11 Connect
National emergency number to call the police is 155.
Tourism information office (Turizm Danışma) – Shore-
line promenade tel +90 282 261 16 98 fax +90 282 261
20 83 135.13 Stay healthy
For the website of the city council, click (available in
Turkish and English) Don’t swim in the areas near the city center. Unfortu-
nately there are both raw sewage discharged into the sea
from several points and occasional chemical/oil pollu-
135.11.1 Post tion caused by commercial harbour activities (It is safe
to swim in areas at least approximately 5 km away from
The city’s sole post office is on high street of downtown the city center towards either direction).
(Hükümet Caddesi). It is open between 08:30 am and In Tekirdağ, there is a somewhat serious air pollu-
08:30 pm. There is also a small post office in Kumbağ. tion/smog problem, particularly in the central parts of the
It is open until 04:30 pm. In both offices, it is possible to city, between November and March, and especially dur-
send letters and cards abroad (it might coast a little more ing nights. This is mainly caused by coal combustion for
in Kumbağ office and reaches its destination at least one heating. So asthma sufferers should take extra precaution
day later than Tekirdağ office). during this time of the year, stay indoors or somewhere
135.15. GO NEXT 363
out of city centre at nights or avoid visiting at all in winter • Marmara Ereğlisi — A coastal town 40 km east
if possible. However, with the extension of the city-wide of Tekirdağ, on the highway to Istanbul. This is the
natural gas pipeline network, this problem will probably site of ancient Perinthos, some worn remnants of
be solved substantially within one or two years, by winter which lies around.
2009-2010.
• Şarköy – Mürefte – Uçmakdere area — This area
National emergency number to call an ambulance is 112.
is known for wines it produce. All along the main
road running through this area, you’ll see nice vil-
lages on the top of the hills, and between the villages
135.14 Cope everywhere is covered by olive-, and vineyards. This
area also has many wine factories, some of which
As a city which is slightly off-the-beaten path, you will are very famous, and it is possible to winetaste in
encounter less English-speaking people. This is not to many of these factories. Two places which deserve a
mean that nobody in Tekirdağ can speak English, but you special interest are the Hora Lighthouse, which was
may have to look for a little more than the usual in more built by the French in late 1800s in today’s Hoşköy,
tourism-oriented towns of western and southern Turkey. and Uçmakdere village, which is located in a deep
And you can also take it on the bright side: you will never valley, and about 2 km away from the sea to es-
come across with a tout in Tekirdağ. cape pirate raids. The village is probably one of
the best-conserved villages in its original shape in
All parts of Tekirdağ and surrounding region is well
the region. There are also many remains (like foun-
within the coverage area of all three cell phone line
tains, or wineries) from Greeks apart from houses in
providers of Turkey. The only area without coverage is
the village too. Although the beach of the village is
some parts of Mt Ganos with their disadvantaged geog-
stony, the sea here is just as clean as it would be a
raphy (being far away from villages, and there are lots of
thousand years ago. Behind the village is the Kartal-
deep valleys in the area which hinder cell phone waves).
başı summit, one of the highest summits (about 900
mt higher than sea elevation) of Mt Ganos (and also
of Turkish Thrace) with an eagle-head shaped rock
135.14.1 Consulates
watching over deep, forested valleys below. This
place was a sacred site in ancient times. You can
There are two consulates in the city.
reach Kartalbaşı summit from Uçmakdere (follow
the trail starting behind the village) at about two and
• Honourary Consulate of Bulgaria (Bulgaristan a half hours but before trying that, it may be wise to
Fahri Konsolosluğu), Turgut Mh., Rıhtım Cad- be in good condition since some parts of the trail is
desi 13/2 (access from Cumhuriyet Meydanı - the quite dangerous.
main square when entering the city centre), ☎ +90
282 261-94-87, fax: +90 282 261-94-87, e-mail: You can reach this area either by first taking
tekirdagkonsolosluk@hotmail.com. the highway to Keşan (D110/E84) and then
turning left (to D555) in the junction you’ll
• Honourary Consulate of Hungary (Macaristan come across about 40 km away from Tekir-
Fahri Konsolosluğu), Orduevi Caddesi 21, Günaydın dağ (there is a Şarköy sign in that junction) or
Apartmanı (on the street leading towards the coast via the unpaved forest road winding around the
from old bazaar - Bedesten), ☎ +90 282 263-03-13, foothills of Mt Ganos, starting from the hill be-
fax: +90 282 261-35-60. hind Kumbağ.
Some travel companies in Istanbul offer wine-

tasting trips in autumn or trekking tours to the
135.15 Go next aforementioned summit in anytime of the year
in this region.
• Kumbağ — A town 13 km southwest of Tekirdağ
known for its long sandy beaches and somewhat- • Marmara Island, the uninhabited northern side of
kitsch entertainment venues (bars etc.). To the south which is almost always easily visible from Tekirdağ
of the town, over the cliffs starting right next to the (except the most humid and the most misty/foggy
shoreline is a pine forest. Inside the forest, there is a days) and Avşa further south of the main island
restaurant which overlooks the sea and an area with are connected to Tekirdağ by frequent ferries and
picnic facilities. The unpaved road running through make great excursions once you are done in the city.
the forest eventually reaches Yeniköy paragliding From the islands, you may head south to Erdek on
area (about 10 km away from Kumbağ) and Uç- Asian mainland to draw a half-circle around the Sea
makdere (see below; about 20 km away from Kum- of Marmara, or to head further south to Izmir via
bağ) Bandırma.
135.15.1 By thumb
Here is a quick list of best spots to try hitching and how
to get to them:
• East (to Istanbul) - Take public minibus (navy blue)

#2 from otogar, or yellow private minibus #1 from
downtown. Get off at the stop in front of ‘Maxi Cen-
tre’ mall, there’s a good spot after the crossroad with
traffic lights.
• West (to Keşan/Greece/Çanakkale/Aegean Turkey)
- Take public minibus (navy blue) #1 from otogar or
downtown, or dark yellow private minibus ‘Altinova’
from downtown. Get off the minibus in the highway
on-ramp. Walk to the other side of the on-ramp.
That’s the best you can get. (Instead of paying for
the public transport, you can also walk to this spot
from city centre, it takes about one and a half to two
hours on foot via a pleasant sidewalk with trees and
lawns)
• North (to Muratli/Edirne) – Take public minibus

(navy blue) #10 from otogar or downtown. Get off
the minibus as soon as it leaves the main street and
turns right into a narrower road. That’s a good place.
• Southwest (to Kumbag) – This direction is hard to

hitch (not hard to raise a thumb in itself but it’s hard
to succeed) and realistically it doesn’t really worth it
as the most far-away place you can get to on this road
is Kumbag, which is only 13 km away from down-
town Tekirdag and can be reached by minibuses in
exchange of a few liras. If you have a lot of free
time, and if your wallet is equivalently free of its
load, however, you can try public minibus #1 or dark
yellow private minibus ‘Altinova’, get off at the small
bridge at the edge of the district (where you’ll see a
‘Welcome to Barbaros’ sign, which proclaims that
you are no more in the city of Tekirdag, but rather
in a neighbouring town) and try your luck there.
Chapter 136
Uzunköprü
Uzunköprü is a town in the western reaches of the a daily service from Istanbul, as well as another from the
Turkish region of Thrace. nearby Greek station of Pythion just across the border
river of Meriç/Evros, but both links have been suspended
for some years now (2014) and the Turkish State Rail-
136.1 Understand ways provide no information on when they will (hope-
fully) resume.
To overcome the natural barrier that the Ergene River
forms which hindered a quick connection with his poses-
sions west, and stalled further expansion of his empire
136.3 Get around
into the Balkans, the Ottoman sultan Murad II (r. 1421–
1451) decided to have a bridge built. As well, he had 136.4 See
founded a town on the southern end of his new bridge,
on what was then desolate plains, naming both the bridge
and the town as Cisr-i Ergene (Ottoman Turkish for “the The only realistic reason to visit the town is the long
bridge of Ergene”). Eventually, the colloquial name, bridge itself, and all other sights are quite minor.
Uzunköprü, literally “the long bridge,” stuck, for the town
as well as for the bridge. • Long Bridge (Uzunköprü) (just north of the town).
Thrace is easily the region adorned with the highest
Uzunköprü is nowadays a town of about 40,000 people, density of Ottoman-era stone bridges in Turkey, as it
on the banks of the Ergene River, one of the major rivers was on the major routes linking the European parts
of the regions and a tributary of the Meriç/Evros River. of the empire with the capital in Constantinople.
While some, such as the Büyükçekmece Bridge in
the outskirts of Istanbul or the Meriç Bridge in
136.2 Get in Edirne are more elegant, the long bridge, with its
174 arches spanning a length of 1.33 km over the Er-
gene River and the marshy meadows along it (which
136.2.1 By bus are farmed into rice paddies nowadays), is certainly
the longest, and having been built between 1426 and
136.2.2 By car 1443, is older than all others, at least by a century.
While pedestrians are free to cross the bridge walk-
Uzunköprü lies near the main north-south highway ing, the rised pavements on sides are narrow and you
D550/E87, which links Edirne (66 km) with Keşan (and have to share the bridge with vehicles (so always
Çanakkale beyond). The new highway, including a mod- keep on the left side so you can face the incoming
ern viaduct of similar length with the old bridge, bypasses traffic); and unfortunate for them, the bridge is eas-
the town several kilometres to east now, so for the stone iest to appreciate not from crossing over it, and not
bridge and the rest of the town, you should drive into the from the southern side nearer the town, but below
direction signposted Şehir Merkezi (“city centre”). it, and from the further, northern side, from where
There is also a secondary road approaching from you will see a road also accessible by cars arriving
Hayrabolu in the east. right on to the banks of the rushing river (which is in
an extreme state of pollution by the time it reaches
the legs of the long bridge due to the textile plants
136.2.3 By train many tens of kilometres upstream near Çorlu and
Çerkezköy, fully black in colour and far more foamy
Uzunköprü has a train station about 5 km north of the than could be expected from at least a moderately
town, just off the highway to Edirne. There used to be unpolluted river, but with a noticeable lack of stench
365
366 CHAPTER 136. UZUNKÖPRÜ
at least in colder months), passing along several of 136.7 Eat

the arches that rest on solid earth. Once by the river,
you will be below the hump formed by the three The local meatballs (Uzunköprü köftesi) are reportedly
taller and larger arches that are over the actual wa- the best in the region, which is quite famous for its meat-
ter crossing, and here raise your eyes to see a couple based meals.
of many flower and animal carvings that ornate the
outer sides of the bridge parapets, which are said to
be in the exact number of the builders that died in
accidents during the construction of the bridge, and
136.8 Drink
commemorating them.
136.9 Sleep
• Freedom Monument (Özgürlük Anıtı) (on the
southern, town side, end of the bridge). While this Uzunköprü is an easy day-trip from the surrounding
smallish arched structure standing on four Ionic-like towns (such as Edirne), but local accommodation is also
legs and a solid cubic base, now over a century old, available if for some reason you need to linger on.
may not be that important architecturally (but it’s
certainly not ugly either), it’s one of the very few • Çakıcı Hotel, İnönü Cd 25 (on the riverfront street,
monuments in Turkey that celebrates the restoration 350 mt west of the southern end of the bridge), ☎ +90
of the constitutional monarchy in 1908 (which is all 284 513-21-21, fax: +90 284 513-34-35, e-mail:
but forgotten almost everywhere else, which is not info@cakicihotel.com. A newly opened hotel in a
surprising, since the following two decades brought brand new building offering rooms with free wi-fi,
about almost constant war and destruction, and yet satellite TV, air-con.
another revolution—the complete overthrow of the
Sultanate and the foundation of the Republic—in
Turkey). On its each four side, it proclaims one of
the four ideals of the Ottoman constitution (heav-
136.10 Connect
ily inspired by the French Revolution) in Ottoman
Turkish (using Arabic script): Hürriyet (Freedom), The local area code is 284.
Adalet (Justice), Müsavet (Equality), and Uhuvvet
(Brotherhood).
136.11 Go next
• Aziz Ioannis Church (Aziz İoannis Kilisesi), Gazi
Mahmut Sk (on the first eastwards street south of • Edirne, the beautiful riverside city chock full of his-
the bridge, 300 mt east from the high street). This tory to the north is the obvious next destination if
church dedicated to Aziz İoannis (St John) is a relic you haven't arrived from that direction. You might
from the days when the town had a Greek Ortho- have a stop over at the small town of Havsa on the
dox community prior to the Greco-Turkish War of way, which has a small mosque and adjoining bazaar
1919–1922. Derelict for decades, it recently under- designed by Sinan, the Ottoman architect of the 16th
went a fine renovation, and named a cultural centre, century.
but it’s unlikely that you will find its doors open dur- • Keşan to the south is a major transportation hub
ing your short stay. with links to Enez on the north Aegean coast, other
villages and resorts on the Saros Bay, and further
• Town library (İlçe Kütüphanesi), Gazi Cd (on the south (the town of Gelibolu, Gallipoli WWI memo-
high street, 100 mt south of the bridge). A small rials, and Çanakkale on the Asian mainland across
beautiful building of two-storeys built in the First the Straits of Dardanelles).
National Architectural Movement style of the early
• The Greek border is just 6 km away from
20th century.
Uzunköprü, but there is no service to get to the rail
border crossing nearby, so the nearest open border
crossings are located at İpsala near Keşan in the
136.5 Do south, or Pazarkule near Edirne in the north.
136.6 Buy
On Fridays, a market is held on the plazza near the south-
ern end of the bridge.
Chapter 137
Vize
There are also frequent minibuses from nearby cities and

towns such as Saray, Çerkezköy (which also hosts the
nearest train station), Çorlu, and Tekirdağ to south, and
Kırklareli to northwest.
137.2.2 By car
When driving from Istanbul to southeast of town (138 km
away, about a one and a half to two hours driving), the
most sensible route to take is the motorway (toll-road)
O-3/E80 to west until Çerkezköy exit and then proceed
via Çerkezköy, and Saray.
From Bulgaria to north, enter the country in Dereköy bor-
Hagia Sophia of Vize der gate and after passing through Kırklareli, head east to
Pınarhisar which is not very far from Vize.
Vize (pronounced vee-ZAY) is a town in northeast of
Eastern Thrace, on the foothills of Istranca Mountains
and about 20 km inland from Black Sea coast. 137.3 Get around
137.1 Understand 137.4 See
Vize, or Bizye of ancient times, was the capital of • Hagia Sophia (Gazi Süleyman Paşa Mosque). Pri-
Thracian Kingdom, which ruled the area well before Ro- mary attraction of the town. While officially named
mans arrived. Today the town has a population of around Gazi Süleyman Paşa Camii, this impressive religious
12,000. edifice made of red brick typical of Byzantine mon-
uments is colloquially called Küçük Ayasofya, i.e.
“Little Hagia Sophia”, in Turkish. Unlike other Ha-
gia Sophias in Turkey, this former cathedral was
137.2 Get in never turned into a museum and still is a function-
ing mosque. Although there is not much art (neither
137.2.1 By bus Christian nor Islamic) to see inside the mosque, in-
terior is visitable if the imam is notified, as the gate is
There are fairly frequent (about once every half an hour locked during non-prayer hours because of a lack of
during day time, about 45 minute-intervals during the rest sufficient congregation to keep it open all day. Free.
of the day) buses from Istanbul's otogar, with the last bus
at 10PM. It takes around two and a half to three hours to • Citadel (Kale), Mimar Sinan Mahallesi. Partially
get to Vize from Istanbul. They are run by Kale Seyahat. intact remnants of town’s citadel can be seen on the
pine-covered hill overlooking the town, which was
• Kale Seyahat, Istanbul Otogar no: 139, Esenler- the acropolis deeper in the past. On the foothill be-
Bayrampaşa, ☎ +90 212 658-01-59, e-mail: low the citadel is also the ruins of ancient amphithe-
info@kaleseyahat.com.tr. 18 TL Istanbul-Vize (16 ater.
TL if bought online, though you will need Turkish
language skills for that). • Tumulus. Numerous tumulii, or burial mounds
367
368 CHAPTER 137. VIZE
built for the rulers of Thracian kingdom, can be seen

south of town on the wide open plain. While they
can be spotted here and there in much of Eastern
Thrace, Vize is one of the places they are clustered
together in an exceptionally high number, thanks to
the importance the town beared in times gone by.
137.5 Do
137.6 Buy
137.7 Eat
137.8 Drink
137.9 Sleep
• Trak Otel, Evren Mahallesi, Atatürk Caddesi 201
(in town centre), ☎ +90 288 318-41-00, fax: +90
288 318-41-00. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms,
wireless internet connection, satellite TV.
• Taşkan Otel (next to town’s otogar), ☎ +90 288 318-

10-88.
137.10 Connect
137.11 Go next
• Kıyıköy, or ancient Medea, about 20 km east on the
coast of Black Sea, is a historical town with city
walls, impressive rock-cut monastery of St Nicholas,
and beaches, all surrounded by creeks and forests.
Buses departing about once every two hours connect
it with Vize.
• Demirköy to north, going through beautiful forests

of Istranca Mountains, also makes a perfect trip
from Vize, although only feasible if you have a car
at your disposal. From there on, you can visit a me-
dieval foundry, Dupnisa Cave, and İğneada further
to northeast on the coast, surrounded by lush forests
and lakes.
Chapter 138
Şarköy District
Şarköy District is a string of towns and villages on the Şarköy (pop. 17,000). From west to east, the communi-
coast and just inland on the hills, sandwiched between the ties are as follow:
rolling hills of Mt Ganos to north and the Sea of Marmara
to south, in the south of Eastern Thrace, northwestern • Şarköy — ancient Peristeri, this town has a nice wa-
Turkey. terfront, and all urban services a traveller might ex-
Also known as the Thracian wine coast, Şarköy Dis- pect to find.
trict is a reasonable day-trip while in the vicinity (e.g.,
• Eriklice — ancient Heraklitsa, this village has nice
Tekirdağ), and is good to take a dip in the sea, or to shop
beaches with clear water (the local gossip says that
for local wines.
the water samples for Şarköy’s—now repealed—
Blue Flag, which guarantees seawater purity, were
actually taken from this village, which lies 10 km
138.1 Understand east from Şarköy).
Until 1920s, when the governments of Turkey and Greece • Aşağı Kalamış (A. Kalamış on road signs) — an-
agreed on a population transfer (in which Greeks of cient Kalamisia, this is an otherwise unremarkable
Turkey were to be expelled to Greece while Turks of coastal village, save for its beach and oliveyards sur-
Greece were to be expelled to Turkey), most of the dis- rounding it.
trict’s population was consisting of local Greeks. Since
• Mürefte — this town, second in population in the
then, the district is populated by Turks originally from
district to Şarköy, is a serious contender for be-
Greek Macedonia and their descendants.
ing the area’s main town, and it officially was the
Mt. Ganos (Ganos Dağı, also known as Mt. Işıklar, district capital during the Ottoman period. Its an-
Işıklar Dağı, and Mt. Tekir, Tekirdağ, which grants the cient/Greek name is Myriophyton, a fitting name as
nearby city of Tekirdağ its name, in modern Turkish), a it translates “a thousand vineyards”.
range of low-lying hills which rise to 945 mt at its high-
est (although hardly impressive by world standards, this is • Hoşköy — ancient Hora, Hoşköy, a nice town in
the second highest point of Turkish Thrace, which mostly itself, is also one of the bigger settlements along this
consists of flatlands), forms the northern border of the strech of the coast.
district, its foothills some distance inland from the coast
• Güzelköy — just inland up on the hills from
always being within the sight of bare eyes. For much of
Hoşköy, Güzelköy, ancient Melen, is one of the best
the history, local Greek Orthodox populations considered
preserved Ottoman villages in the area, with stone
it holy, providing yet another name for it, Heraion Oros,
houses, ruins of a bathhouse, and an old mosque.
which literally translates “the holy mountain”. As a result,
ruins of many monasteries can be seen, dotting the coves • Gaziköy — ancient Ganos, Gaziköy is a coastal vil-
and hills all over the mountain. lage with citadel ruins and desolate beaches. East-
Much of the rural landscape of the district is covered by wards from here, Mt Ganos rises right from the
olive- and vineyards, the latter of which provides 40% coastline.
of Turkey’s total wine production. Shrimp is also an- • Uçmakdere — one of the most well-known, yet
other local product, fished from numerous dalyans, those (until recently) the most inaccessible settlements in
clumsy-looking wooden piers streching out to the sea, al- the area, ancient Vidimo is a picturesque town in a
ways topped by a small hut on it. These structures are valley two km inland from the sea. Thanks to its re-
unique to the area, and are said to basically have the same moteness, most of its traditional wooden houses is
conformation since the ancient times. preserved (although some badly needs some sort of
Şarköy District is named after its capital and biggest town, renovation).
369
370 CHAPTER 138. ŞARKÖY DISTRICT
You will notice that the more east you go, the remoter,
less crowded, and less urban it is along the district.
138.1.1 Climate
Thanks to the protective shield offered by Mt Ganos
from the cold continental winds running down from the
Balkans, the district enjoys a micro-climate, which is
more reminiscent of a Mediterranean climate than the
continental climate experienced elsewhere in Thrace—
the olive trees, which are a species typically flourishing
in Mediterranean climate, are here for a good reason. In
short, it’s always warmer (and comfortably so) than else-
where in Thrace in winter (though expect no Antalya
here—it does snow in most winters, although lighter than
the rest of Thrace); summer conditions are similar with
other nearby places, but the summer showers common
in the north are less likely in this district (albeit, only
slightly).
Unless you are heading there specifically for a swim,
spring (e.g., April, when fruit trees all over the place
are in full bloom) and autumn (October, time for grape
harvest, and when the weather is extremely pleasant and
sunny enough) months tend to be loveliest time to visit.
138.2 Get in
138.3 Get around
138.4 See
138.5 Do
138.6 Buy
138.7 Eat
138.8 Drink
138.9 Sleep
138.10 Connect
138.11 Go next
Chapter 139
Istanbul Atatürk Airport
139.3 Ground transportation

People get commissions by persuading you to use special
shuttle buses for very high fees (TRY30+) so, for people
who wish to travel more economically, the Metro/tram-
combination is easy and fairly quick and offers very good
value.
IST is the home of Turkish Airlines

139.3.1 By taxi
From the airport, there are various options for getting

Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IATA: IST) is in the Istanbul into Istanbul: you can take a taxi (about TRY35-40 to
Province of Turkey. Taksim. There are no night fares in Istanbul any more.
The price would be the same at midnight or midday.
139.3.2 By bus
139.1 Understand
About the same to Sultanahmet), the express bus ser-
Named after the founder of modern Turkey, Istanbul vice run by the local airport service called “Havataş"
Atatürk Airport is located 20km west of the country’s which departs half-hourly 04:00-23:59 and costs TRY10
largest city of Istanbul. As Istanbul is situated partly in to Taksim and Aksaray and Kozyatağı), the public bus
Europe and partly in Asia, it’s the only major airport in (line #96T) run by İETT costing TRY5 (TRY3.5 with İs-
the world that can be said to serve two continents. tanbulKart), which has fewer departure times now, due
to Havatas, which is the municipal bus service.
139.1.1 Visa 139.3.3 By light rail
It is no longer possible to purchase a visa on entering The metro operates 06:00-23:59 and is signposted “light
Turkey. Visitors are required to purchase a visa in ad- rail” in the airport. When you get outside the baggage
vance online. (Do not use any other website, which will claim, it’s about a ten minute walk in the airport to the
be unofficial and probably charge an excessive fee.) metro line. Just follow the signs, which will take you di-
rectly to the Otogar (bus station) or to numerous stops
within Istanbul (Aksaray in the city centre is the last stop,
transfer stations for tram heading for deeper into old city
is available at Zeytinburnu and Aksaray). It costs TRY3,
139.2 Flights by token (+an extra TRY3 when boarding the tram) and
getting to Aksaray takes around 45 minutes. It is possible
IST is the main hub for the national carrier Turkish Air- to be at your bus departing from Otogar within less than
lines which is the world’s 4th biggest carrier by number of one hour after landing by taking the metro.
destinations. Also Atlasjet, Freebird Airlines and Onur When entering the metro station, you need to buy a je-
Air are based here. ton (token) for 3 lira. Just hand the cashier TRY3 and
371
372 CHAPTER 139. ISTANBUL ATATÜRK AIRPORT
he'll give you a token, or use the automatic dispenser (Je- 139.8 Connect
tonmatik), which accepts banknotes (TRY5, TRY10) as
well as coins. Use 'select' to choose the number of jetons
and then push 'ok'. They don't accept credit cards or for- 139.9 Cope
eign currency here. This will get you on the red metro
line (towards Aksaray). From this line, if you are go-
ing to Sultanahmet, you can transfer at Zeytinburnu you
139.10 Sleep
will need a second token for the transfer. From Zeytin-
burnu, take the blue tram line T1, towards Kabataş which 139.11 Nearby
passes by: Sultanahmet, Eminönu and Tophane. The trip
from the airport to Sultanahmet takes about 60min. Also
consider buying an Istanbulkart (see Get around below)
which will pay for itself within a few trips on public tran-
sit.
139.4 Get around
139.5 Wait
As of September 2014, Turkish Airlines offers free
guided tours of Istanbul’s sights to their passengers
under a program called “Touristanbul”. This program in-
cludes transport from and to the airport and a traditional
Turkish meal. There are different tours each day of the
week taking either six or nine hours. The conditions are:
you need to have a layover of at least six hours and at
most 24 hours, between 09:00 and 18:00 and, in addi-
tion, both your arriving and departing flights must be in-
ternational and operated by Turkish Airlines. No prior
reservation is needed for these tours, you only need to
proceed through customs and immigration and after that
to the “hotel desk” in the arrival hall. The airline has more
detailed information on their home page. Remember to
check if you need a visa to enter Turkey.
139.6 Eat and Drink

Food and drink at the airport may cost up to five times
more than in the city proper, as in other international air-
ports. If you are travelling on a budget and plan to spend
some time at the airport, it may be wise to bring your
own meals from town instead of buying them there. If
you come from the Metro, there is a supermarket in the
tunnel leading to the elevators / stairs to the airport proper
where you can do some last-minute shopping.
139.7 Buy
As at most airports, money exchange is more expensive
than in the city. In Istanbul the airport money exchange
offices accept limited currencies. It is recommended to
bring US dollars or euros for the best exchange rates.
Chapter 140
Polonezkoy
Founded by the Polish settlers in the 19th century on the in the 18th and 19th centuries, respectively, for exam-
Asian side of the Bosphorus near Istanbul, Polonezköy, ple), it is the longest lasting one, as about 40 of the vil-
literally the “Polish village”, provides a surprising contri- lagers (out of a total of around 1,000, which nowadays
bution to the ethnic mix of Turkey. includes non-ethnic Poles as well) are fluent speakers of
Polish, and the local Polish heritage has been vigorously
protected.
140.1 Understand Thanks to the deep woods surrounding Polonezköy (un-
der protection as a “nature park” since 1996) and the quite
“exotic” appeal (according to the Turkish standards) of
the village, it is now seen as something of a quick es-
cape from the city by the Istanbulites, arriving in summer
weekends in numbers.
140.2 Get in
140.2.1 By car
Polonezköy is about 25 km from central parts of Istanbul.

From Istanbul’s European side, first cross the Second
Bosphorus Bridge (officially called Fatih Sultan Mehmet
Köprüsü, usually referred to as FSM Köprüsü or 2. Çevrey-
A house in Polonezköy
olu on the traffic signs). After crossing the bridge, leave
the motorway in the first exit, first follow the “Beykoz”
After the November Uprising of 1830 against the Rus- signs, after you have totally left the motorway behind, fol-
sian Empire in what was then Russian-dominated Poland low the “Polonezköy” signs you’ll see in every junction.
failed, Prince Adam Jerzy Czartoryski, one of the leaders
of the uprising, decided to form communities for his fel-
low Polish revolutionaries in countries that were friendly
to their cause. The first settlers arrived in 1842 and 140.3 Get around
laid the foundation of the village they named Adampol
(“Adam’s town”), after the prince. During the rest of
the 19th century and the early 20th century, more immi-
140.4 See
grants poured in every time a conflict involving the Poles
arose and the population of the village rose accordingly, • Village houses with a traditional Polish style.
although it never exceeded the all time (ethnic Polish)
• little Catholic chapel which dates back to 1914
maximum of 220.
After the World War I, Poland regained its freedom in
1918, and many of the settlers returned. Those that re-
mained were granted Turkish citizenship in 1938.
140.5 Do
While Polonezköy is by no means the only example of
Central European revolutionaries taking refuge in Turkey 140.6 Buy
(there were Hungarian colonies in Tekirdağ and Kütahya
373
374 CHAPTER 140. POLONEZKOY
A trail in the forest near Polonezköy
140.7 Eat
There are many restaurants in the village mainly servicing
Istanbulites visiting the village for a day in the nature at
weekends. Some of them serve traditional Polish meals
too. But all restaurants are reported to be expensive, so it
may be best to bring your sandwiches from the city and
perhaps have a picnic in the park (which contains some
beautiful wooden sculptures) situated right in the centre
of the village if you are on budget.
140.8 Drink
140.9 Sleep
You can stay in Istanbul and visit Polonezköy as a day-
trip. If you have an irresistible will to overnight in the
village, there are a few guesthouses and hotels here too.
Polka Country Hotel – tel +90 216 432 20 21
Gülayım Hotel (2*) 75. Yıl Caddesi no: 64 – tel +90
216 432 31 34
140.10 Connect
140.10.1 Telephone
The area code of the village is 216, which it shares with
the rest of the Asian side of Istanbul. The area code
should be dialed not only when calling from out of Is-
tanbul, but also when calling from the European side of
Istanbul.
140.11 Go next
Şile is about a further 40 km away, follow the road passing
through the village which eventually reaches the shore of
Black Sea.
Chapter 141
Istanbul
141.1 Districts
The system of districts and municipalities of Istanbul is
quite sophisticated and was changed in 2009. Hereby you
may see a simple division of the city into approximate
regions of the city:
Ortaköy Mosque along the Bosphorus
Approximate regions of Istanbul.

“Istanbul was Constantinople. Now it’s Is-
tanbul, not Constantinople” — Jimmy Kennedy,
Istanbul (Not Constantinople), 1953
As the above, profound lyrics demonstrate, Istanbul

(Turkish: İstanbul) is not Constantinople. It is however
a city of fantastic history, culture and beauty. Called
Byzantium in ancient times, the city’s name was changed
to Constantinople when it was rebuilt by the first Chris-
tian Roman Emperor, Constantine. It was renamed once
again in 1928, becoming Istanbul, a name which had al-
ready been in use for centuries.
The most populous city in Europe, Istanbul forms the
financial centre of Turkey and confidently straddles the All districts are listed here.
borders between Asia and Europe as it has for millennia:
this is the result when you mix ancient Christendom, a
medieval metropolis and the modern Middle East. Situ-
ated on either side of the Bosphorus, Istanbul still retains 141.2 Understand
its metropolitan status: the city’s population is estimated
to be between 12 and 19 million people, making it one of 141.2.1 History
the largest cities in the world.
Lauded in antiquity as “the second Rome”, this is a city Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by
where you most certainly should roam - culture and ex- the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great,
citement lie around every corner and more than two thou- the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a
sand years of history await you. thousand years the last remaining outpost of the Roman
375
376 CHAPTER 141. ISTANBUL
(later termed Eastern Roman or Byzantine) Empire. To enced by a continental climate, with hot and humid sum-
this day, the Ecumenical Patriarch, head of the Eastern mers and cold, wet and occasionally snowy winters.
Orthodox Church continues to be the Archbishop of Con- Istanbul has a high annual average rainfall of 844 mm
stantinople, who is still based in Istanbul. It was finally (which is more than that of London, Dublin or Brussels,
conquered by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II on 29 May whose negative reputation Istanbul does not suffer), with
1453, an event sometimes used to mark the end of the late autumn and winter being the wettest, and late spring
Middle Ages. It was the nerve centre for military cam- and summer being the driest. Although late spring and
paigns that were to enlarge the Ottoman Empire dramat- summer are relatively dry when compared to the other
ically. By the mid-1500s, Istanbul, with a population of
seasons, rainfall is significant during these seasons, and
almost half a million, was a major cultural, political, and there is no dry season as a result.
commercial centre. Ottoman rule continued until it was
defeated in the first World War and Istanbul was occu- If there is a negative reputation that Istanbul does suf-
pied by the allies. When the Republic of Turkey was born fer from, it is the high annual relative humidity, espe-
in 1923 after the War of Independence, Kemal Atatürk cially during winter and summer with the accompanying
moved its capital to the city of Ankara. However, Istan- wind chill and concrete-island effect during each respec-
bul has continued to expand dramatically; today its pop- tive season.
ulation is approximately 14 million and increases at an Summer is generally hot with averages around 27°C dur-
estimated 400,000 immigrants per year. Industry has ex- ing the day and 18°C at night. High relative humidity
panded even as tourism has grown. It continues to be a levels and the ‘concrete-island effect’ only make things
city that creates its own history at the intersection whereworse. Expect temperatures of up to 35°C for the hottest
both continents meet. days of the year. Summer is also the driest season, but
it does infrequently rain. Showers tend to last for 15–
30 minutes with the sun usually reappearing again on the
141.2.2 Orientation same day. Flash floods are a common occurrence af-
ter heavy rainfalls (especially during summer), due to the
Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus city’s hilly topography and inadequate sewage systems.
Strait (Istanbul Bogazi), the dividing line between Eu-
rope and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) Winter is cold and wet, averaging 2°C at night and 7°C
bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara during the day. Although rarely below freezing during
(Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most the day, high relative humidity levels and the wind chill
sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula makes it feel bitterly cold and very unpleasant.
of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between Snowfall, which occurs almost annually, is common be-
the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are tween the months of December and March, with an an-
Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istan- nual total snow cover of almost three weeks, but average
bul, while Kadıköy is the major district on the compar- winter snowfall varies considerably from year to year, and
atively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black snow cover usually remains only for a few days after each
Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul. snowfall, even under intense snow conditions.
Late spring (late May to early June) and early autumn
141.2.3 Climate (late September to early October) are very pleasant and
therefore the best times to visit the city. During these pe-
riods it is neither cold nor hot, and still sunny, though the
nights can be chilly and rain is common.
For visitors an umbrella is recommended during spring,
autumn and winter, and during the summer to avoid the
sun and occasionally the rain. However, it’s not such a
big problem, since streets of Istanbul are suddenly filled
by umbrella sellers as soon as it starts raining. Although
the umbrellas they provide are a little shoddy, going rate
is only TRY5 per umbrella (though you can find much
better umbrellas for that price at shops if you look around
a bit).
Light clothing is recommended during summer and a light
jacket and/or light sweater if the summer evenings do be-
come chilly, warm clothing is essential during winter and
It can be cloudy, rainy, or even snowy in Istanbul a mixture of the two during spring and autumn.
Also take note that due to its huge size, topography and
Istanbul has a temperate oceanic climate which is influ-
141.3. GET IN 377
maritime influences, Istanbul exhibits a multitude of dis- Various private operators offer internet bookable shared
tinct microclimates. Thus, different sections of Istanbul minibuses to central locations — a good choice when ar-
can experience different weather conditions at the same riving late. A typical price being €90 for 4 people to
time. For example, at the same moment, it can be heav- a hotel in Laleli. A taxi to Sabiha Gökçen airport from
ily raining in Sarıyer in the north, mildly raining in Lev- Taksim, which lies around 50 km from the airport, takes
ent (northern terminus of metro line), while Taksim, the ~35 minutes at 03:30 with no traffic. The meter will show
southern terminus of metro line, is having a perfectly c. TRY65, plus there is c. TRY6 in tolls. Note the se-
sunny day. curity screening is before the check-in counters, so add
some extra time to make the cutoff times (45 minutes for
international, 30 for domestic).
141.3 Get in For the return journey, officers are quite zealous with
luggage checks and they systematically remove the cap
141.3.1 By plane from bottled water once at the gate. It is recommended
not to buy water before the flight although you can take
Atatürk Airport the open bottle on board. Another surprising feature of
Sabiha Gökçen airport is the luggage check at the main
Main article: Istanbul Atatürk Airport entrance, but fortunately you are allowed to take drinks
in the airport at this point.
Most planes arrive at Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IATA:

IST), 20 km west of the city centre. From there you can
choose between taxi, bus or subway to get into the city.
141.3.2 By train
Sabiha Gökçen Airport
Istanbul also has a second airport, Sabiha Gökçen Inter-

national Airport (IATA: SAW), in the Anatolian side of
the city. Charter flights as well as European low cost car-
riers operate from here most of the time.
A Havatas bus connects this airport with Taksim in the
city centre (60 min, closer to 2 hours in heavy traffic,
TRY13), Kozyatağı, a transportation hub of Asian Side
(TRY10) and Haydarpasa port in Kadiköy, from where
direct ferries take you to Eminönü in Sultanahmet Old
City (50min, TRY8 + ferry TRY3). If you arrive in the
middle of the night, you can move to the departure hall af-
ter passing customs and rest on very comfortable seats — The distinctly oriental Sirkeci Station, which has welcomed pas-
you will even find coin-operated Japanese massage chairs. sengers from Europe to the city on the edge of Asia since 1890...
Then, at 05:00 the first Havatas bus will take you to town.
The Havatas bus schedule is sometimes linked to the ar-
rival/departure times of planes.
A cheapest option is to take public bus line #E9 to Kay-
narca (get off at Tersane Lojmanlari) in (30min, TRY2);
see timetables). From Kaynarca, you can take a subur-
ban train (Banliyö Treni) to Haydarpasa (50min, TRY2),
from where you can take a ferry to Karaköy (TRY2).
Total travel time is approximately 1h 40min and costs
TRY6.
Another cheap option is to take bus E3 to 4.Levent metro
station (TRY 6.45) and then continue your journey by
metro (TRY1.95). This takes 50 minutes.
When arriving at Sabiha Gökçen airport, there are people
offering shuttle services to the European side of the city,
most costing €10, which is much cheaper than booking a ...and the distinctly Teutonic Haydarpaşa Station, which provided
taxi with your hotel/hostel (about €50-60). It is the best the first sight of Europe for many passengers from faraway parts
option after the Havatas airport buses. of Asia since 1908.
International trains from across Europe arrive at the sta- With 168 ticket offices and gates, shops, restaurants, ho-
tion in Sirkeci, close to Sultanahmet. Asian trains arrive tel, police station, clinic and mosque, the Büyük Otogar
at Haydarpasa station. To get between the two, catch a is a town in itself. From/To Thessaloniki (Greece): ticket
ferry across the Bosphorus (see Get around). Marmaray, prices are around €45 (one way), €80 return. From/To
the Rail Tube Tunnel and Commuter Rail Mass Transit Sofia and Varna (Bulgaria): c. €25 (one way). From/To
System is being built, and is projected to be one of the Skopje (Macedonia): c. €40 (one way)
most challenging infrastructure projects in Turkey. “Harem” is the major hub for the buses on the Anatolian
International trains to Sirkeci (Asian) side, which can be reached easily from the Euro-
pean side with a Ferryboat. Check tickets of seventy bus
• Daily overnight train Balkan Express from Belgrade firms in Turkey otobusbileti.
(Serbia) via Sofia (Bulgaria).
• Daily overnight Bosphorus Express from Bucharest 141.3.4 By boat

(Romania) (departure at 12.16 from Bucharest, ar-
rival at 08.30 in Istanbul, but expect about 2 hours
delay) Cost: RON170 (about €40) for a second
class sleeper, plus an additional fee if you wish a
sleeping compartment (€77 for a single-bed cabin
or €10-33 for twin/up to six beds/cabin). No restau-
rant.
Trains from Budapest and Thessaloniki are cancelled

since 2011.
International trains to Haydarpasa
• Weekly trains to Aleppo (Syria) - taken out of ser-

vice in 2008; it is unknown whether and when this
service will resume.
Maiden’s Tower, located on an islet at the southern entrance of
• Weekly train to Teheran (Iran) (from Haydarpasa Bosphorus
station) every Wednesday 22.55, costing TRY105.
It is also a good way to drive in the Eastern part of International ferries, carrying tourist groups from outside
Turkey. You change trains on Friday at Lake Van Turkey stop at Karakoy Port. The port is ideally located
which requires a four hour ferry ride to get across. close to Sultanahmet and Taksim.
Both the Turkish and Iranian trains are comfortable
and clean. Waggon restaurants are rather cheap. Ar- Cruise ships often dock close to downtown. Passengers
rival in Tehran on Saturday at 18.45 (but expect up not on tours will find taxis readily available at the port
to 10 hours delay…). entrance, and modern streetcars a short walk away.
Schedule and price list of railway trips can be gathered 141.3.5 By car
from TCDD (Turkish Republic State Railways).
When arriving at the Turkish border from Europe, you Traffic in Istanbul can be manic; expect a stressful drive
may need to buy a visa before getting your passport because you will be cut off and honked at constantly. The
stamp. This counter accepts only Euros or USD, not city currently hosts more than 1,500,000 cars and there is
Turkish lira. You need to go to the visa counter first a strong demand for building of new or alternate high-
to purchase your visa, then to passport control to get it ways.
stamped. If you've arrived in Istanbul by car, and you're not familiar
with the streets, it’s better to park your car in a safe place
and take public transportation to get around.
141.3.3 By bus
The city, lying on two different continents and separated
Buses and coaches terminate at the colossal Esenler by the Bosphorus, is connected by two bridges. The
Otogar, about 10 km west of the city centre, located on bridge on the south, closer to the Marmara Sea, is called
the European side. Courtesy minibuses or taxis will eas- the “Bosphorus Bridge”. The bridge closer to the Black
ily get you into the centre. The metro also stops at the Sea is named “Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge” and is longer
Otogar. There are several daily buses to/from cities in than the first one. Both are toll bridges, and you must pay
Bulgaria, Greece, Republic of Macedonia and Romania. a fee to cross.
Since 2006, the Bosphorus Bridge toll stations do not as close to your accommodation as possible before walk-
accept cash, and payment must be made using elec- ing and/or taking a taxi to where you are staying. Al-
tronic cards, either manually (KGS) or automatically via though the public transport may by slightly confusing,
a transponder mounted on the front of the car (OGS). The taxis/charter buses from the airport are notoriously over-
Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge does not accept cash either, priced.
only KGS or OGS.
On weekdays, drivers should be aware of potentially hour- 141.4.1 Istanbulkart
long traffic jams on the highways leading to both bridges,
particularly heading west in the mornings and east in the
evenings, since most people live on the Anatolian side but
work on the European side.
There is a great shortage of parking in Istanbul, and ex-
isting lots are quite expensive. You will see many cars
parked on the sides of the road, in front of garage doors
even.
Drivers unfamiliar with the city should also be aware that
street signs are rare. It is a common thing to pull over and
ask for directions, something the natives and taxi drivers
do quite often.
141.4 Get around
An Akbil device.
The İstanbulkart is Istanbul’s public transport smart

card, which can be used as a ticket on buses, trams, subur-
Rapid transit map of Istanbul (urban rail and metrobüs systems)
ban trains, metro, local ferries, etc. If you are in Istanbul
for more than a day or two and intend to use public trans-
Istanbul’s public transit system can be difficult to figure
port, it will pay for itself in a few trips.
out; the lines connect poorly, maps are rare and you often
have to transfer, and pay another fare, to get where you You touch the Istanbulkart to a reader when you get on
are going. However, if you put some effort into it, you the bus or enter the tram or metro platform. The great
can avoid taxis and not walk too much. advantage for a group of travellers is that you can buy
only one and touch it as many times as there are pas-
Each time you use a tram, metro, bus, or boat on the pub- sengers (unlike London’s Oyster card, there is no need
lic transport system, you will need to use a token. The to touch out). You can buy or refill them at designated
small plastic tokens cost TRY3 (Jun 2013) and can be booths located at any major bus, tram, to metro station, as
bought at various ticket kiosks & machines at bus, railway well as some other places such as newspaper stands close
and metro stations. Ticket fares across buses, trams and to bus stops. There are refill machines located at most
metros are at a flat rate (i.e. not dependent on how far you metro or tram stops and ferry terminals. An Istanbulkart
go). Only cash in Turkish lira is accepted at ticket kiosks provides significantly discounted rates (almost twice as
of public transport, no credit cards or foreign currency. cheap) compared to regular single tickets, as well as dis-
Also be aware that the Istanbul subway system does not counts on transfers and short round trips (when used mul-
offer transfer tickets and as such each new line requires tiple times within a limited period, roughly an hour and
a new fare, unless you use an Istanbulkart or Akbil, see a half since the last time you used it). For instance, a
below. trip with Istanbulkart costs c. TRY2.15, while a single
Note: When travelling to Istanbul by air, it is much ticket is c. TRY4.0. The round trip to the airport pays
cheaper (and more fun) to use the metro system to get for more than half the cost of this card. You must pur-
and Marmaray. There is also a branch line (M1b)

which serves the western suburb of Kirazli.
• Line M2 starts from Yenikapı and crosses the
Golden Horn, continuing via Şişhane and Taksim
Square to Mecidiyeköy and Levent in the business
district.
• Line M3 continues northwest from M1b terminus
Kirazli.
• Line M4 on the Asian side goes from Kadıköy to
the eastern suburbs.
Heavy construction on extensions and new lines continues

apace, with the gap between the M1 and the M2 sched-
uled to be plugged by the end of 2014.
There is also a funicular system connecting Taksim to
Kabataş where you can get on ferries and cross to the
Anatolian side, and also transfer to trams bound for old
city.
Nowadays, most metro stations do not have a staffed
ticket booth, so you will have to obtain your token from
automatic token dispensers. Insert coins or notes and then
Istanbulkart press the button marked onay/okay. A token costs TRY3
on any urban rail in Istanbul though an Istanbulkart (see
above) may be more cost effective during your trip.
chase the card (TRY10) with TRY4 as its balance, the
card is not refundable, and neither is any credit left on
the Istanbulkart. The card can be purchased at a number By tram
of small corner shops throughout the city.
The Istanbulkard is relatively new, and replaces the older
Akbil metal touch-token which is being phased out (but is
still in wide use). It is now just about impossible to buy
an Akbil. However, there are still some places that do not
yet accept the Istanbulkart, so if you have an Akbil token
left over from previous trips to Istanbul, keep hold of it:
they still work. Some Kiosks still have Akbil signs rather
than Istanbulkart signs - but you can usually buy or top
up your Istanbulkart at any kiosk where the Akbil sign is
displayed.
By metro
Istanbul’s first underground system dates back to 19th The modern tramcars of Istanbul
century, when the funicular subway “Tünel” was con-
structed to operate from Karaköy to Istiklal Street in
1875, travelling 573m up a steep hill. It’s still running to • Istanbul Metro & Tram.
this day and is handy for going from Galata Bridge (Be-
yoglu side) to the famous Istiklal Caddesi (main street). A tram (line # T1) connects Zeytinburnu (connection to
Istanbul’s modern metro consists of four lines, only the the metro line to the airport) to Kabataş (connection to
first two of which are of much use to the casual visitor: the underground funicular to Taksim). The line is 14 km
long, has 24 stations and serves many popular tourist sites
• Line M1 connects the airport (Havalimani) and the (e.g. in Sultanahmet) and ferries (e.g. Eminönü). An
main coach station (Otogar) to Aksaray, from where entire trip takes 42 minutes.
you can catch tram T1 to the city centre, and on- There are two tram lines running on the same tracks, the
ward to train hub Yenikapı for connections to M2 line numbered as 38 in front of tram cars runs along the
entire T1 line between Kabataş and Zeytinburnu, while with a stop in central Sirkeci (T1) to Üsküdar and
significantly shorter line #47 runs between Eminönü and Ayrılıkçeşmesi (M4) in minutes, with lengthy extensions
Cevizlibağ stations (the latter of which is abbreviated as in the works at both ends. It’s nowhere near as scenic as
C.bağ-A.Ö.Y. on the signage of tram cars). However, the ferries, but considerably faster, and a true engineering
both lines call at stations that are of most interest to trav- marvel.
ellers through the Old City. During morning and evening
The old suburban/commuter train lines (banliyö treni)
rush hours every alternate tram runs as #47, while during
travelling west from Sirkeci (Europe) and east from Hay-
the rest of the day, most run as #38. darpaşa (Asia) have been shut down for upgrading and in-
Although you may use the same tokens (TRY3) or AK- tegration into Marmaray, with reopening planned in 2015
BİL/Istanbulkart on the metro and tram, you must pay or so.
another fare each time you change lines.
The tram was put in service in 1992 on standard gauge 141.4.3 By boat
track with modern cars, connecting Sirkeci with Topkapi.
The line was extended on one end from Topkapi to Zeyt-
inburnu in March 1994 and, on the other end from Sirkeci
to Eminönü in April 1996. In 2005 it was extended from
Sirkeci to Kabataş crossing Golden Horn after 44 years
again. 55 vehicles built by ABB run on the line. The daily
transport capacity is 155,000 passengers.
Tramway stations are: Zeytinburnu, Mithatpaşa, Akşem-
settin, Seyitnizam, Merkezefendi, Cevizlibağ, Topkapı,
Pazartekke, Çapa, Fındıkzade, Haseki, Yusufpaşa, Ak-
saray, Laleli (Üniversite), Beyazıt (Kapalıçarşı), Çem-
berlitaş, Sultanahmet, Gülhane, Sirkeci, Eminönü (fer-
ryboats), Karaköy, Tophane, Fındıklı, Kabataş.
Between Taksim and Kabatas, there is a modern under-
ground funicular to connect this tram line to the Taksim
metro. The tram is also connected to the southern metro Istanbul liner crossing the Bosphorus
line (for the Otogar and Atatürk Airport) at Aksaray sta-
tion, though the metro and tram lines are a short walk Unique Istanbul liners (large conventional ferry boats),
from each other. sea-buses (high speed catamarans), or mid-sized private
During morning and evening rush hours (roughly between ferries travel between the European and Asian sides of
07:00-09:00 and 17:00-19:30 respectively), tram cars run the city. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs
jam-packed so if you intend to take it for a couple of sta- TRY3, and gives great views of the Bosphorus. Be aware
tions down the way, don't even bother—walking instead that sometimes the ferry when arriving at a dock can
is not only less tiresome than standing in what is essen- bounce off the pier accidentally, even on calm days. This
tially more crowded than a sardine can, it’s also quicker can cause people to fall over if they are standing up, so it
as you will most likely be able to get in the second or even is advisable to remain seated until the ferry has come to
third tram calling at the station due to the crowd. an absolute stop.
There are also two other tram lines linking residential In Istanbul, liners from any given quay generally take only
and industrial suburbs in the northwest with the city cen- a certain route, and these quays are signposted ‘X Iskelesi’
tre: T2, which heads for Bağcılar, and T4 (which is more (“X Landing stage/pier”). For instance, Eminönü alone
like metro-tram systems of northwestern Europe, as it lies has more than 5 landing stages (including the ones used
underground for part of its route), which heads for Sul- by other ferries apart from liners), so if you should head
tançiftliği, connecting to the Zeytinburnu and Topkapı for, say, Üsküdar, you should take the ferry which departs
stations of the T1 line respectively. However, these lines from ‘Üsküdar Iskelesi’. Replace ‘Üsküdar’ with the des-
are of very little, if any, use to the average traveller. tination of your choice.
Istanbul liners travel on the following routes:
141.4.2 By train • Karaköy–Haydarpaşa–Kadıköy
Istanbul’s dilapidated suburban rail network got a big • Kadıköy–Eminönü

boost in October 2013 when Marmaray, a fabulously • Üsküdar–Eminönü
expensive transcontinental tunnel from Europe to Asia
under the Bosphorus, finally opened after ten years of • Üsküdar–Karaköy–Eminönü–Eyüp (The Golden
construction. The line zips from train terminus Yenikapı Horn Route)
• Kadıköy–Besiktaş accept cash (normally TRY1.50 but this is dependent en-

tirely upon what the driver wishes to charge) and hand
• Kabatas–Uskudar–Harem you his Akbil for you to use.
• Istinye–Emirgan–Kanlıca–Anadolu Hisarı– Recently installed Metrobüs, long hybrid buses running on
Kandilli–Bebek–Arnavutköy–Çengelköy (The their special lanes separated from all other traffic and thus
Whole Bosphorus Route) saving lots of time in Istanbul’s usually congested roads,
connect western suburb of Avcılar with Kadıköy in Asian
• Anadolu Kavağı–Rumeli Kavağı–Sariyer Side via Bakırköy, Cevizlibağ which is just out of old city
walls near Topkapı Gate, and Mecidiyeköy.
• Eminönü–Kavaklar (Special Bosphorus Tour, Rec-
ommended For Tourists) Most bus lines operate roughly 06:00-23:59, usually with
a reduced volume of services after 22:00. Some lines
• Sirkeci–Adalar–Yalova–Cınarcık (The Princes’ Is- between major centres operate 24/7 though, as is the
lands Route) Metrobüs, with about an hour intervals. After midnight,
buses cost two tickets per person rather than the usual
Furthermore, the sea-buses (deniz otobüsü) follow the one.
same (or more) routes, usually much faster than lin- 24 hr Bus Lines:
ers. Returning to Yenikapi from Kadikoy by sea-bus
is a fast and convenient way to cross the Bosphorus; at
Yenikapi there is a railway station with frequent trains to • 73 Taksim Square–Atatürk International Airport
Sirkeci/Eminönü and the Yenikapi fish restaurant area is • 110 Taksim Square–Kadikoy
close by (or one stop on the train).
Four main private ferry routes for travelling between • 112 Taksim Square–Bostanci
Asia and Europe sides are:
• 25T Taksim Square–Sariyer
• Besiktaş–Üsküdar • 40 Taksim Square–Sariyer
• Kabataş–Üsküdar (close to tram and funicular sys- • 89C Taksim Square–Basaksehir

tem in Kabataş)
• E10 Kadikoy–Sabiha Gokcen International Airport
• Eminönü–Üsküdar (close to tram in Eminönü)
• 15F Kadikoy–Uskudar
• Eminönü–Kadıköy (close to tram in Eminönü)
• 130 Kadikoy–Tuzla
Very useful are the fast ferryboats (travelling at 55km/h) • 34A Sogutlucesme(Kadikoy)–Edirnekapi
running from several points, such as the Yenikapi–Yalova (Metrobus)
one, that allows you (with a connecting bus in Yalova) to
be in Bursa centre in less than three hours. Prices are • 34 Avcilar–Zincirlikuyu (Metrobus)
marginally higher and the gain in time is considerable,
though the view is not as nice. As a tourist, you are most likely to use the tram and the
All of the ferries, including private ones, can be paid for metro in the Sultanahmet and Taksim area since there are
using the AKBIL/Istanbulkart system. no bus lines operating in the area anymore.
Buses and streetcars tend to be very crowded during rush
hours, especially on Mondays and Fridays. That can also
By bus
create opportunities for pickpockets.
IETT.
There are two types of public buses in Istanbul; those run 141.4.4 By taxi
by the private sector and those run by the city-owned
İETT. You can differentiate these two types by their Taxis are an easy and cheap way to get around. As of
colours. Privately run buses are blue-green with yellow Dec 2011, flag fall costs were TRY2.70 (€1.20) and then
non-electronic destination signs while İETT-run buses TRY1.7 (€0.73) for each kilometre afterwards. A one-
come in many flavours including old red-blue ones, newer way travel from Taksim to Sultanahmet costs approxi-
green ones and red double-deckers. The Akbil Transit mately TRY10–15. Tipping is generally unnecessary.
Pass is valid universally while tickets that can be obtained Frequently, drivers will refuse to start the meter and try to
in kiosks near bus stops for TRY1.40 are valid only on negotiate a fixed price. You should avoid these cabs and
İETT buses and cash payment only on private buses, al- simply take another one as you will almost certainly end
though if you get on an İETT bus the driver will normally up paying too much. To be sure, before getting in, just
ask “how much to go to ...?" (most of the drivers under- 141.4.5 By shared taxi
stand basic English) since the price they tell then is quite
accurate. Tell them then to put the taximeter on. Drivers Dolmuş (Turkish: “full”) is a shared taxi, travelling on a
do normally work with the taximeter, so they will not be fixed route, which costs more than a city autobus but less
surprised at all when you ask them to put it on. The price than a normal taxi. They can carry up to 8 passengers.
at the end will be quite close to the one they tell you at They are easy to recognize, because they also have the
the beginning. As of Oct 2009, there is no extra fare yellow painting as taxis and carry a Dolmus sign on its
at night. top. They will only start driving when all eight places are
filled, which is also where the name derives from.
Even when agreeing to take you on the meter, taxis in
Istanbul have several dodges to catch the unwary traveller. The main and most important routes for Dolmuses are :
The meter is often situated right in front of the gear stick
and drivers somehow manage to advance the meter while • Taksim–Eminönü (Taksim stop, near the Atatürk
changing gear. Not putting the meter back to the starting Cultural Centre, in Taksim square)
rate, i.e. adding your fare to the previous one, is also
common. Taxis that wait near a bus station are usually a • Taksim–Kadıköy
tourist trap. They start the meter but charge you TRY20
at least. Emphasize to the driver that you will pay for the • Taksim–Bostanci
meter price before getting in. Do not buy their quick-sell • Taksim–Aksaray (Taksim stop, Tarlabasi Avenue,
tricks. Always try to stop a taxi that is passing by on the close to Taksim square)
road or find a legitimate taxi stop.
• Kadıköy–Bostanci (Bostanci stop, in front of the
Insist on going to the destination that you want because
Bostanci ferry port)
some drivers are paid a commission each time they deliver
someone to a certain hotel, restaurant, shop, etc. • Taksim–Tesvikiye (Taksim stop, in front of Patis-
Beware riding a taxi other than the “yellow-coloured” serie Gezi, in Taksim square)
ones since the other-coloured taxis are registered under
• Beşiktaş–Nisantasi (Beşiktaş stop, in front of the
different cities and have a different rating system.
Beşiktaş - Üsküdar ferry port)
Be careful on what notes you hand them for payment;
some drivers have tried to pretend that the TRY50 note • Kadıköy–Üsküdar (Üsküdar stop, Near the Üsküdar
that was handed was just a TRY5 note. Occasionally taxi - Beşiktaş and Üsküdar - Kabataş ferry port)
drivers may actually also rip notes you give them, and
tell you it is no good, in order to make you hand them If you want the driver to make a stop, you can say İnecek
a TRY50 note. So, make sure the notes are not ripped, var.(EE-neh-djek war!) (Someone’s getting out.) or Mü-
and is actually the right one before you hand them over. sait bir yerde.(mU-sa-EEt bir yer-deh.) (At a convenient
Also, if you are not familiar with the city the taxi driver spot.).
may drive a detour in order to charge you more.
Traffic can be very bad, it can take an hour for a few km
141.4.6 Disabled travellers
through the old city. You might be better off taking the
metro out of the old city and then a taxi from there.
Buses
Some important routes with distances and estimated taxi
prices are : The process of replacing old buses with newer ones ac-
cessible for people using a wheelchair is ongoing. Many
buses on central lines have a low floor and a built-in ramp
• Atatürk Airport (IST) – Taxim Square ~ 21 km.
(consult the driver to lean the bus down nearer to the
• Atatürk Airport (IST) – Sultanahmet Square (Old ground, to open the ramp, and to assist into the bus,
City) ~ 18 km. though any of these might unfortunately be impossible
during peak hours in interval stops. Think of a sardine-
• Taxim Square - Sultanahmet (Old City) ~ 5.5 km. packed bus unloading all of its passengers to lean down).
LCD screens show the stop names while approaching the
• Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW) - Kadikoy (Chal- stop and voice announcements are made.
cadonia) Ferry Terminal ~ 36 km.
• Esenler (Bus Terminal) – Topkapi Palace (Sultanah- Tram

met) ~ 10,5 km.
Trams are accessible for people using a wheelchair from
• Esenler (Bus Terminal) – Atatürk Airport (IST) c. the station platforms if you can manage to get into the
15 km. station in the first place. Some of the stations are located
in the middle of very wide avenues and the only access to

them is via underground passages (tens of stairs) or over-
passes (more stairs!). Otherwise, platforms in tram sta-
tions are low and equipped with gentle ramps right from
the street (or sidewalk) level.
All stations are announced both on a display and by voice
in the trams.
Metro
All stations and trains in the northern metro line are ac-
cessible for people using a wheelchair. Look around the
station entrances for handicapped lifts/elevators. Only
some of the stations in the southern metro line are Sultan Ahmet Mosque at dusk
equipped with such elevators (among the stations which
have elevators are Aksaray-the main station of the city
centre, Otogar-the main bus station, and Havalimanı
(Airport) station), but whether there is an elevator or not,
if you manage to get into the station (there is a good
chance that you can do with a little assistance because
the stations in the southern line aren’t located as deep as
the stations of the northern line are; only about one floor’s
height under the ground), all trains are accessible from the
station platforms, though a little assistance more will be
helpful for passing over the narrow gap between the train
and the platform. You can ask the guys in grey/black uni-
forms (security guards, they can be seen in the entrances
of the station platforms if not elsewhere) for assistance,
it’s their duty. Basilica cistern, built by the Romans
All stations are announced by voice in the metro trains.

In the northern line it is also announced on a display, but including the Hagia Sophia (entrance fees : TRY25),
not in the southern line. Instead, you should look at the Topkapı Palace (TRY25), Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue
signs in the stations, which are big and common enough. Mosque, free), and Basilica Cistern (careful! unequal
price, TRY20 for foreigners, less for Turkish) are located
around Sultanahmet Square, while some others are dis-
141.5 See persed throughout the peninsula of old city, such as the
Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora (Kariye Müzesi),
the entire inside of which is covered by mindblowing fres-
coes and mosaics. An impressive section of mostly intact
Theodosian walls, which mark the full length of western
boundary of the peninsula, is right next to this particular
church.
North of the peninsula of the old city, across the Golden
Horn, is Galata, crowned by the Galata Tower. Istanbul
Modern, with its exhibitions of contemporary Turkish
art, is on the nearby waterfront of Karaköy. Another sight
of the district, just north of the Tower, is the museum
converted from the Dervish Hall of the Sufi Mevlevi or-
der, which those interested in the teachings of Rumi will
want to take a peek at. Further north is the Istiklal Av-
Hagia Sofia enue, Istanbul’s prominent pedestrian street running from
near Galata Tower to Taksim Square, the central square
With its long history at the centre of empires, Istan- of whole city.
bul offers a wealth of historic and religious places to Heading west rather than north from the old city brings
take in. The bulk of these ancient monuments, dat- you deeper into the banks of the Golden Horn estuary. A
ing back to Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, neighbourhood perhaps well worth a visit here is Eyüp,
141.6. DO 385
to visit city’s holiest Islamic shrine and just to see what Side.
daily life in Ottoman Istanbul was like. On the opposite
shores of the Horn, in Sütlüce is the Miniaturk, the first
miniature park in the city, with models from around the 141.6 Do
former Ottoman Empire.
North of Taksim Square is New Istanbul, main business 141.6.1 Hamams
district of the city. If venturing out to this direction, don't
forget to check out Military Museum, where Ottoman
A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is an essential part of
military music concerts (Mehter) are held every after-
any trip to Istanbul and is something you'll be sure to
noon. Most of the skyscrapers of the city are located in
repeat before leaving. There are at least one historical
the north of this district, around Levent and Maslak, with
hamam in each neighborhood of Istanbul. Take care in
a totally different skyline from that of the old city. How-
selecting a hamam, as they can vary greatly in cleanliness.
ever southern reaches of the very same district has some
Most places will offer a scrubbing and/or a massage. Just
fine neo-classical and Art Nouveau buildings from the
being in the Hamam (as a sauna), is enough for seeing and
turn of the 20th century, around the neighbourhoods
experiencing the place, but the scrubbing is a great expe-
of Osmanbey, Kurtuluş, and Nişantaşı. Just east from
rience. The massage is not necessarily better than those
here, with a little drop in elevation as you approach the
found in western countries.
shore, is the banks of Bosphorus, that is lined by pleasant
neighbourhoods full of waterfront mansions (yalı) and a Sultanahmet has many historical hamams. Some are very
number of waterside palaces where you can admire what extravagant and cater mainly to tourists.
money could buy in times gone by.
Across the Bosphorus to east is Asian Side, centred 141.6.2 Nargile (Hooka/Water Pipe)
around the historical districts of Kadıköy and Üsküdar,
and perhaps best symbolized by Maiden’s Tower, lo- Once upon a time, the nargile, or Turkish water pipe,
cated at about the halfway between these districts, on an was the centre of Istanbul’s social and political life. To-
islet just off the shore. Bosphorus and Marmara coasts of day some of the locals still consider it one of life’s great
this half of the city is characterized by quite picturesque pleasures and is something interesting to try. Most of the
neighbourhoods, overlooked by Çamlıca Hill, one of places where you can smoke a nargile are in Yeniçeriler
the highest hills of the city which has a view of much of Caddesi, near the Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar). Çorlulu
the rest of the city as well, with a café and a pleasant park Ali Paşa and Koca Sinan Paşa Türbesi are both in se-
on its summit. cluded internal courts, just around the corner from some
Southeast of the city, off the southern coast of Asian Side tomb yards, while Rumeli Kahvesi is actually inside the
are the Princes’ Islands, an archipelago of nine car-free cemetery of an old medrese, though it’s not as spooky
islands, characterized by stunning wooden mansions and as you might think. In the south of Sultanahmet, near
pine groves. the sea, is Yeni Marmara (Çayıroğlu Sokak), where you
can also sit in the terrace and enjoy the view. In Bey-
oğlu, at the Ortakahve (Büyükparmakkapı), there’s even
141.5.1 Tulips the choice of a wide range of flavors. Another area with
few big good looking places is the Rıhtım Caddesi, be-
Long ignored for their bad connotation with the Tulip era tween Galata bridge and Istanbul Modern Museum.
of 1700s, a period of ostentation and costly parties con-
ducted by state elite amidst large gardens full of tulips
(and also when the first bulbs were introduced to the
141.6.3 Walking tours
Netherlands from Istanbul, by the way), which was later
accused of economic destruction and the eventual disso- Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Top-
lution of Ottoman Empire, tulips have regained much kapı museum (these two should take at least three to
of their former popularity in the last decade and now five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the
serve as some sort of symbol of both Istanbul and the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored
whole Turkey. They bloom from late March to early houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with
May (best bet is early to mid April) and while they can the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very
be seen on many avenues of the city wherever there is good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find
enough space for planting at the sides and the central the small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was un-
strip of the road, if you are after admiring and/or pho- der restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill
tographing large patches of tulips with relatively exotic to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex, top notch tiles
varieties, head to Sultanahmet Park and Gülhane Park in inside.
Sultanahmet; Emirgan Park near the northern Bosphorus Take a tram or walk to Eminönü (where the boats leave
neighbourhood of Emirgan; or Çamlıca Hill in Asian for trips to Asia or up the Bosphorus). Visit the New
Mosque at the back, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to variety.

it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem
Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It’s on a raised plat-
form near an old clothes market, you may have to ask di- Theodosian Walls Walk
rections. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüp mosque
complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this
Eyüp complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particu-
lar, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many
boys-to-be-circumcised among it; a Friday might be a
good day to do this). Then, if you have the stamina, it
might be nice to walk back too; maybe all the way (five
miles or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall
to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then
on to Selimiye Mosque with its great view on the Golden
Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque
(passing through some very religious and lively neighbor-
hoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and
next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the view from
the Golden Horn side). If you have some energy left, you
might go on to the University complex, and by then you A restored section of city walls at Belgradkapı Gate, close to Mar-
are very close to the Beyazit mosque. A book market (it’s mara coast
small) is behind this good, unexceptional (nice courtyard
though) mosque. From 408AD the original walls of Constantine were re-
Once again go to Eminönü, but this time take the boat placed in the reign of Theodosius. These walls then be-
(those large ferries) to Üsküdar. You will arrive before a came the critical point of defence of the capital of the
fine mosque in front, another one four hundred meters off Eastern Roman Empire and their Ottoman successors.
to the right, slightly inland behind a traffic roundabout, They are still almost completely intact, marking the west-
and a third, very small, at the sea front. See the mar- ern border of the peninsula of Old City, with some sec-
ket stretching inland, walk about and don't forget to walk tions suffering from somewhat unsightly restoration done
along the shore, maybe eating a fish meal in one of the in early 1990s. The section around the Topkapı Gate (not
bobbing boats along it. This is a good visit for late after- to be confused with Topkapı Palace which is located in
noon, early evening, fleeing the city. You will be joined an altogether different place) can be easily accessed from
by thousands of people going home from “town” but the Pazartekke tram station, which lies about 300 metres east
way back will be on a near-empty ferry. The frequency of the walls. Some remoter sections may not be very safe
of ferries will go down in the evening, so make sure there and may require some caution.
is a connection back. A 7 km walk along and on these remaining portions of the
Go to the railroad station and find a Sirkeci-Halkali sub- city wall offers a window into antiquity and puts emphasis
urban train, and get out at (from memory, Yedikule sta- on Turkey’s terrible historic monument legacy. Down-
tion). You will be quite close to Yedikule, a nice fortress, load and print a scholarly historical and technical de-
and will have fine views of the city walls. The trains leave scription of the walls before you visit Istanbul; this will
every 15 minutes or so, the ride is peculiar (the material certainly add to the pleasure. From Eminönü, take the
is bad, but if you are in luck every second stop another Golden Horn ferry to Ayvansaray. This ferry terminal
salesman will enter and try selling his wares, it’s fun). The is separate from the Bosphorus terminals adjacent and
ride is takes anywhere from twenty minutes to half an east of the Galata Bridge. Walk west through the Galata
hour. This is not a “must”, but it can be great fun. bridge underpass, then through the bus station to a pedes-
trian laneway which leads to the small terminal building.
You will have missed the covered bazaar in all this. That The fare is TRY1.50. Leave the ferry at Ayvansaray and
is because you will get there anyhow. If you go to Beyazit cross the park to the wall on the other side of the main
and the book market you are almost at two of its many en- road. You have a choice of walking up the outer wall or
trances. Try and find the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and its the inner wall but access to the top of the battlements is
complex at the other side, it’s worth it. And after having usually on the inside naturally enough, so go up the small
explored the covered part, take a relaxing walk downhill, street across the road which then cuts back behind the
into the general direction of Eminönü, where it is “un- wall and the towers. Here you can climb up onto this sec-
covered bazaar” all the way. Cross the Galata bridge to tion of unrestored wall on crumbling brick and stone and
see some things on the Northern side (for instance take continue on some hundreds of yards climbing as neces-
the “tünel” teleferik ride up much of the hill (entrance sary. This path comes to an obvious end and one can short
close to the opposite side of Galata bridge, ask around)), cut back to the street. Sometimes there are dwellings and
then continue to Taksim. Shops are of the international commercial enterprises hard up against the wall, some-
141.7. LEARN 387
times a bus depot, a rubbish dump or often just the road. ious stops. The fare is TRY25. The departure time is
These walls replaced the earlier walls of Constantine in early and is very popular, so arrive early and queue. The
408AD after which they went through constant upgrade open decks are hugely popular, so unless you have an out-
and repairs to earthquake damage. The different work side seat expect people to be standing all around you con-
done over the centuries was all of varying style and qual- stricting the view. The ferry waits some hours in Anadolu
ity. Quite surprisingly there are a number of small streets Kavagi so as you alight you are confronted by a numerous
still using the narrow gates. At Hoca Çakır Cd one comes restaurants and their spruikers. Firstly take the walk to
across a restored section of the wall where the heights the Yoros Kalesi, a strategic castle overlooking and con-
are accessed by stairs, some along the top of the wall of trolling the entry to the Black Sea. This important fortifi-
the steeper variety. This restoration from the 80s is in cation with a commanding view has been fought over for
conflict with the original. The wall is then breached for many years and was last in use in the 19th century. It has
the main road Fevzi Paşa Cd. Cross this and continue fallen into serious disrepair, but Christian engravings are
along the street at the back of the wall. Look for foot still visible in the stonework. There are restaurants actu-
pads and breaks in the wall which allows access and a ally in the castle surrounds and naturally have spectacular
good look around. The wall is breached again for Adnan views. There is plenty of time left to wander back to the
Menderes Blv (unofficially and widely known as Vatan village for lunch. It is late afternoon before arrival back
Caddesi). Past here one see here quite clearly the double at Eminonu, but a day well spent. A cheaper and faster
line of defence with outer moat. The next breach is for Bosphorus cruise alternative is a TRY10 trip on a shorter
Turgut Özal Cd (unofficially and widely known as Mil- cruise.
let Caddesi) which hosts the tram line heading back to
Sultanahmet for those who have run out of steam. Walk-
ing now on the outside of the walls, various breaks in the 141.6.5 Football
outer wall allow access via broken stonework or later via
modern sets of steps in disrepair. Between the walls is Football (soccer) is the most popular sport in Turkey,
the disquieting evidence of the number of people sleeping and Turkish football fans are known for their passion.
rough in Istanbul. Persevere in staying between the walls Many teams from other parts of Europe consider the at-
because soon you will arrive at another impure restora- mosphere to be very intimidating when they have to play
tion project at Mevlanakapı Cd gate. Note that entry to away matches in Turkey. The most intense rivalries in
the gate towers has been closed at the gate, so entry is Turkish football are between Beşiktaş, Fenerbahçe, and
only from the walls. From here it is better to proceed Galatasaray, and matches between these sides are al-
on the outside of the walls because market gardens oc- ways played in front of sell-out crowds; getting tickets re-
cupy the moat and the city side abuts buildings. These quires booking way in advance. As the atmosphere is ex-
couple of kms will give a further perspective of the rav- tremely hostile to the away teams, spectators should avoid
ages of time and earthquake on the walls. Finally you will wearing away team colours after the match, and avoid any
arrive at the Golden Gate and Yedikule Fortress which signs of crowd trouble.
fronts the Marmara Sea and was Byzantium’s triumphal
point of entry. This is in excellent condition not least be-
cause the Ottomans upgraded it and then used it right up 141.7 Learn
to the 19th century. There is an entry fee and it boasts a
loo. The high walls and towers are all accessible, and one
tower still has internal wooden floors. So you have now Many foreigners visiting or living in Istanbul decide to
surveyed the protective land walls which kept Byzantium study Turkish formally in a language school.
and the Eastern Roman Empire safe for all those years af- You must be able to speak Turkish at a basic level in order
ter the fall of Rome, breached only by the 4th Crusaders to apply for a Turkish passport. Turkey allows multiple
and the Ottomans. What of their future? Given that re- citizenship and its passport is one of the more expensive,
cent restoration work is fairly suspect scholars may think costing TRY533.70 (c. €176) for a 10-year passport in
it is better to leave them be. Now return to the city either Feb 2014, but using a Turkish passport then allows travel
in the Eminönü Bus (#80) from the village square outside to more than 107 countries without obtaining a visa in
the main gate, just wait there, or walk down Yedikule advance. These countries include the CIS countries and
Istasyonu Cd about 300m to the railway line to Sirkeci, most countries in South America.
both heading for centres close to Sultanahmet.
Some of the biggest and most respected Turkish language
schools in Istanbul are:
141.6.4 The Classic Bosphorus Cruise • ITI Istanbul in 4.Levent.

From the terminal immediately east of the Galata Bridge • EFINST Turkish Centre in 1. Levent .
starts the large ferry cruising to Anadolu Kavagi at the
northern entrance of Bosphorus to the Black Sea via var- • Dilmer in Gümüşsuyu .
• Tömer, Ankara University affiliated . bul. Many teachers work with private instructional com-
panies. Others contract out on a freelance basis.
• Concept Languages in Etiler .
Istanbul is Turkey’s financial capital. All big investment
• Boğaziçi University. Runs a summer long intensive banks, commercial banks, large foreign retail and con-
Turkish language course for all levels. sumer companies have offices in Istanbul. The business
district has been coming up with high-rise buildings and
Both Boğaziçi University and Bilgi University have well
business centres in the last decade.
established Study Abroad programs in English for for-
eigners.
141.9 Buy
141.7.1 TEFL
Many foreigners living in Istanbul support themselves by
teaching English. Finding a good teaching job is usu-
ally easier with a well-recognized certificate like the ones
listed below:
• ITI Istanbul in 4. Levent runs Cambridge Univer-

sity’s CELTA and DELTA courses year-round
141.7.2 Ottoman Turkish

If you already speak Turkish, Ottoman Turkish may
also be interesting to learn. Ottoman Turkish was the
courtly form of Turkish spoken during the era of the Ot-
toman Empire, and is significantly different to the form
of Turkish spoken today. Approximately 80% of Ot- The Grand Bazaar during Republic Day
toman Turkish words were loanwords from other lan-
guages, mostly Arabic, Persian and French. After the Connecting east and west, the will to control the major
fall of the Ottoman Empire and the establishment of trading routes was the reason why Istanbul was founded in
the Republic of Turkey, language reforms were imple- the first place, so shopping should definitely not be over-
mented, including the establishment of the Türk Dil Ku- looked in your Istanbul experience.
rumu (Turkish Language Association), which is the offi- The currency used in Istanbul is the Turkish Lira (TL)
cial regulatory body of the Turkish language. This asso- though the euro and US dollar are also accepted at places
ciation, with a philosophy of linguistic purism, decided frequented by tourists (although certain tourist attractions
to cleanse the Turkish language of loanwords and replace such as the Hagia Sophia only accept liras). Currency ex-
them with more Turkic alternatives. As such, only about changes (döviz bürosu) and banks are plentiful in Istanbul
14% of modern Turkish words are of foreign origin. and offer extremely competitive exchange rates with no
Ottoman Turkish is the key to learning about Turkey’s commission charged. If you are planning to visit Istanbul,
Ottoman past. With Ottoman Turkish, not only can you bring hard foreign currency and exchange them after you
read historical archives, but you can also read Ottoman arrive, preferably at a bank or a currency exchange. Ex-
literature and letters dated back to the Ottoman period. change only what you need as you will find difficulty ex-
In Istanbul, you can learn Ottoman Turkish from the fol- changing your leftover TRYback to foreign currency af-
lowing places: ter you leave the country. Alternatively, withdraw money
from ATMs whenever you need cash.
• İsmek +90 212 531 01 41 İskenderpaşa Mahallesi, Shops may be closed on Sundays. Most major shopping
Ahmediye Caddesi, Hacı Salih Efendi Sokak, 6 malls have security checkpoints you usually see in airports
Fatih. and museums prior to entry.
• Tarih Vakfı +90 212 522 02 02 Zindankapı Değir- Istanbul’s historical bazaars with an oriental ambiance,
men Sokak, 15 Eminönü . once sitting firmly on the western terminii of the Silk
Road and spice routes, all dating back to Ottoman era,
are all located in the peninsula of Old City.
141.8 Work On the other hand, modern shopping malls (alışveriş
merkezi, usually shortened to AVM), popping all around
There is always a high demand for qualified - and, to a the city in the last three decades, are mostly to be found
lesser extent, unqualified - ESOL/EFL teachers in Istan- in New Istanbul and western suburbs, though they are by
141.10. EAT 389
no means exclusively located in these districts. • Off the Beaten Path. Places that offer the best at
If you are after top quality upmarket garments, then what they do but are not on any of the traditional
you may better head for Nişantaşı in European Side and tourist paths.
Bağdat Avenue in Asian Side. • ArkeoPera, Yenicarsi Caddesi, 16/A Petek
Here are some of what are popular to buy while in the Han, Galatasaray, +90 212 2930378 . Best
city: antiquarian bookshop in Turkey, owner knows
every Turkish excavation site first hand.
• Turkish Delight, or Lokum (as the locals call it). • Gonul Paksoy, 6/A Atiye Sokak, Tesvikiye,
A good buy since you're in Turkey. It is advisable to +90 212 2360209. Peerless one-of-a-kind
buy it fresh rather than in pre-packed boxes and to dresses made for royalty from refined, antique
get a variety of flavours rather than the stereotypical Ottoman-era cloth.
rose-water or lemon flavors available abroad. Pis-
• Iznik Foundation, 7 Oksuz Cocuk Sokak, Ku-
tachio in particular is very good. The best place to
rucesme, +90 212 2873243 . Offers neo-Iznik
buy lokum in Istanbul is from a store. Istiklal Cad-
pottery after recreating original formulas from
desi in particular features a number of stores that
original Iznik kilns, which functioned between
sell Turkish sweets by the kilogram including lokum
1450 and 1650.
and helvah. There are quite a few shops selling Turk-
ish Delight in the Grand Bazaar, although unless you • Sedef Mum, 50 Irmak Caddesi, Dolapdere,
are very good at haggling better prices can be found +90 212 2535793. Artisans of the time
elsewhere. honoured art of candle making, intricately
sculpted and aromatic wares make very
• Turkish Tea (çay, CHAI). The national drink of portable gifts.
Turkey, brewed from leaves grown on the steep, ver-
dant mountain slopes of Turkey’s eastern Black Sea
coast. Traditionally, Turkish tea is brewed samovar- 141.10 Eat
style, with a small pot of very strong tea sitting on a
larger vessel of boiling water. Pour a small amount For individual restaurant listings, check district articles.
of strong tea into a little tulip-shaped glass and cut
it to the desired strength with hot water. Turks usu-
ally add cube sugar (never milk, although you can 141.10.1 Snacks
often get milk if you ask.) Having fresh, hot tea al-
ways available everywhere is one of life’s splendid
little luxuries in Turkey. Elma Çay: apple tea, like
hot apple juice (EHL-mah chah-yee) is the flavour
of preference, although it’s more for tourists; Turks
prefer Saya Çay (black tea).
• Turkish Coffee Roasted and then finely ground

coffee beans are boiled in a pot (cezve), usually with
sugar, and served in a cup where the grounds are al-
lowed to settle. A classic of Turkish culture.
• Nargile (hookah) It is a single or multi-stemmed in-

strument for smoking flavored tobacco called shisha
in which the smoke is passed through a water basin Balık ekmek eatery on the waterfront of Eminönü
(often glass based) before inhalation. Different sizes
of nargile make it easier to carry one home with you.
• Meze Meze is basically Turkish version of tapas,
• Rugs and kilims can be a good buy while in the served in small portions both hot&cold. Best place
city. Most rug-specialized stores in the city, though, to eat meze would be “meyhane”.
are aimed at tourist trade, so pick up basics of
bargaining to avoid being ripped off at these stores. • İskender Best version of Döner. It is basically döner
They are mostly located around Sultanahmet. served on a plate with a buttery tomato sauce on top
and some plain yoghurt as a side.
• Chalcedony. A semi-precious gemstone named af-
ter the nearby town of Chalcedon, and is sold in • Döner. Always a good option for having fast and
many of Istanbul’s multitude of jewellery shops. cheap food. The entrance to Istiklal Street contains
dozens of small doner restaurants and they serve al- • Kumpir is a snack which can easily be a full meal.
most around the clock; though for a better experi- It is originated from Albania but is quite unique
ence (and a better food quality) you may want to to Istanbul in its present form. It consists of a
wander about in residential neighbourhoods, since baked potato with various fillings such as grated
anything near a commercial or tourist area can be cheese, mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, sweetcorn,
highly overpriced and greatly reduced in quality. sausage slices, carrots, mushrooms, and Russian
salad among others, any of which can optionally be
• Lahmacun It is “meat with dough”, is a round, thin added to or omitted from the mix. While kumpir can
piece of dough topped with minced meat (most com- be had at many cafes throughout the city, it is best
monly beef and lamb) and minced vegetables and had from one of the cafes in Ortaköy, which have a
herbs including onions, tomatoes and parsley, then long tradition of preparing kumpir and offer really
baked. Lahmacun is often served sprinkled with filling and tasty ones. About TRY7-8 each.
lemon juice and wrapped around vegetables, includ-
ing pickles, tomatoes, peppers, onions, lettuce, and • Roasted chestnuts(“kestane Kebap, as locals call it)
roasted eggplant; a typical variants may be found are sold from carts around the city, and is a very nice
employing kebab meat or sauces. snack to have when the weather is cold, as it keeps
your hands warm. 3 Lr for 100 gr.
• Dürüm a traditional Turkish wrap (which is made
from lavash or yufka flatbread) that is filled with typ-
ical kebab or döner ingredients. • Boiled and roasted corn on the cob is sold from
carts around the city, and is a fantastic snack to walk
• Balık-Ekmek. Balik-Ekmek (literally “fish and around. Price varies from cart to cart and area of the
bread”) is a fish sandwich served in small boats and city (between 1 and 1.5 Lr).
little buffets in Eminonu. It is also increasingly pop-
ular in buffets in Kadıköy coast. A regular sandwich • Don't miss the “simit,” a warm bread sold from
consists of one small fried fish, slices of tomatoes carts around the city, and is a fantastic snack to walk
and onion. However, the taste is beyond expecta- around. The texture and taste is a bit like a sesame
tions for such a basic menu. The price is around 4 bagel. Price varies from cart to cart and area of the
TL. Again, it’s a local favorite. city (between .75 and 1 Lr).
• Hamsi. In Autumn and Winter the Black Sea An-

• Also, be sure to try Ayran, a local drink based on
chovy migrate through the Bosphorus, the local fish-
yoghurt, although sour and much thinner. It isn't al-
ermen coming out in force to take advantage. All
ways on the menu or displayed, but it’s there, so ask
fish restaurants have them on the menu in season. It
for it.
seems the classic serving is a handful of deep fried
fish with raw onion and bread. Eat the fish whole,
it’s a winner. Look for the small restaurants behind • Freshly squeezed juice and juice blends are sold
the fish merchants on the Karakoy side of the Galata from stands and small shops all around the city,
Bridge, western side. Expect to pay TL6. and are a refreshing treat (especially in the warmer
months). The combinations range from a simple
• Patso. Patso is a type of sandwich consisting of orange juice to the more rare options like pomen-
hot dog and French fries. It’s usually served in granate or kiwi. Price varies from shop to shop, area
small buffets along the Uskudar coast and a sand- of the city and complexity of your order (between 2
wich costs 1.50 TL. The cheap price can raise eye- and 4 Lr).
brows but these buffets are open 24/7 and they serve
around 1000 sandwiches per day. Even though the
profit margin is low, they make a fortune, so they 141.11 Drink
don't lower the quality too much (except hamburg-
ers, don't touch those in Uskudar, but definitely try
• Bebek is small town right on the Bosphorus with
the spicy hamburgers in Taksim).
fancy restaurants and bars. Great place to have a
walk on the seaside after a nice dinner.
• One thing not to be missed is the local ice cream
sold at the street stands, called dondurma. While • Bagdat Caddesi is a very long avenue full of nice
flavors are relatively standard for the region, the restaurants, boutiques and high-end stores located at
ice cream usually incorporates orchid root extract, the Anatolian Side of Istanbul.
which gives it an incredibly chewy and stringy tex-
ture, also lending itself to be used for marketing and • Karaköy is the rising star of the city, mostly notable
attracting attention while the sellers do tricks to try with its underground parties with amazing view of
to sell the ice cream. Try it! Marmara Sea. A must see.
141.13. CONNECT 391
• Beyoğlu is notoriously known for its night life; it’s 141.13 Connect
full of cafes and bars with live music. People from
all classes and ethnicity can be found here.
141.13.1 Telephone codes
• Nişantaşı is the place for young entrepreneurs and
artists, the prices are higher than Taksim. Istanbul is the only city/province in Turkey which has
more than one telephone code: 212 for European side,
• Kadıköy also has a nightlife scene, serving mostly 216 for Asian side and Princes’ Islands. When calling
locals of this part of the city. It is usually has more from one continent to the other, the usual dialing format
easy-going style of nightlife, usually with local pubs used for intercity calls should be used, as if it’s an in-
and wine houses and traditional meyhanes. If you tercity call: 0+area code (212 or 216)+7-digit telephone
are not staying on that side of the city, it may not number. It may appear as an intercity call, but it will be
worth the trouble to make an inter-continental trip treated as a local call in respect to payment. When mak-
just to have a drink, but drop by if you are around ing an intercontinental call, if you forget to dial the code,
and thirsty. your call will not be automatically routed to the other con-
• Nightclubs - While there are night clubs all over tinent number, it is likely that you will be connected to
the city, two of the hottest clubs of Istanbul are in the “wrong” number which is in the same continent with
Ortaköy. you, because much of the number sets are used on both
continents (albeit with different codes of course). When
dialing a number that is on the continent you are already
standing on, only 7-digit number is enough. Don’t forget
141.12 Sleep to dial the code first no matter which continent you are
in if you are calling a landline number from a cell phone
In general, it is possible to find some kind of accommo- (even if it’s a number that is in the same continent with
dation in any district of Istanbul. Here is a quick list of you), though.
the districts where they are concentrated most:
• Harbiye is a popular place to stay, as in the main 141.13.2 SIM Cards

centre of the new city on the European side, and
contains a variety of international standard apart- Prepaid SIM cards can be bought (for around TRY30
ments, hotels, and moderate hotels for budget travel- with TRY5 usable balance) at Vodafone, Avea or Turk-
ers. Nişantaşı and Taksim are 5 minutes from Har- cell kiosks at the airport or in shops around town. They
biye so you can stay in Harbiye and benefit from all might ask to make a copy of your passport.
activities in Nişantaşı and Taksim.
You can use foreign phones for approximately two weeks,
before the IMSI gets blocked by all carriers (except if
• Taksim is the main centre of the new city on the
you're roaming with a foreign SIM card) and you need to
European side. Locals and tourists go to Taksim for
register the phone, which you can only do every 2 years.
shopping and entertainment, as well as moderate ho-
tels for budget travelers. There are also two hostels
in this area. 141.13.3 Internet
• Sultanahmet the main centre for the old city on the Hotel: Every hotel has their own Wi-Fi. Some hotels do
European side. It has a selection of quality, reason- have trouble with their network setup or the connection
ably priced hotels, many with terraces overlooking due to the historical location however at the least you will
the Golden Horn, or with views of the Marmara Sea have free wi-fi at your hotel. All you have to do is to learn
and the Blue Mosque. Most hostel-type accommo- the wifi password to access the internet.
dation frequented by independent travellers are lo-
cated in this district, although it is possible to find a Cafes:
few upmarket hotels. Every café, bistro, restaurant share their internet with
their guests. Even the small restaurants now have in-
• Quite pricey hotels can be found in western sub- ternet access. Stability and speed depend on where you
urbs, especially around the airport, as well as are and what kind of café, bistro or restaurant you are
on/overlooking the banks of Bosphorus. in. Starbucks, Nero etc. typically have stable wi-fi un-
less very crowded. If you are in a Starbucks all you have
• With the closure of relatively central Ataköy caravan to do is connect your device (SSID should be TTNET or
park, the place where you can tow your caravan DorukNet, AND if you are in Nero DorukNet) and fill out
nearest to the city is now located in Selimpaşa, a far some basic information for verification that you have to
outer western suburb of the city, though it is still a fill. After that, you are ready to go. And if you are in the
good 40 km away from central parts of the city. other restaurant or cafés you can just ask to your waiter
to get SSID and Password and after that you are ready to Bar/club scams
go. Many cafés and restaurants along Istiklal Caddesi in
Beyoglu have the system.
Public Center and Squares:
Municipality of Istanbul recently announced that free
public wi-fi will be available in most common city cen- Tourists must be aware of high-drink prices scams en-
ters and squares. All you have to do is (when you near of countered in so-called night-clubs mostly located in Ak-
one of these centers of course) register your id via your saray, Beyazit and Taksim areas. These clubs usually
cell phone and you will get an access password. charge overpriced bills, based on a replica of the origi-
Wi-Fi on the Go: nal menu, or simply on the menu that had been standing
upside down on the table.
There are a plenty companies that rent a mobile hotspot.
If you don’t have a local rental company in your coun- Also be aware of friendly behaving groups of young men
try or you want to rent one when you are in Turkey or male-female couples striking up a conversation in the
then you can try the local options. Rent’n Connect street and inviting you to a “good nightclub they know”.
http://www.rentnconnect.com is one of the local compa- This has frequently been reported as a prelude to such a
nies that has reliable service and good coverage, which scam. The person(s) in on the scam may offer to take you
may be ideal for tourists visiting Turkey. The benefit of to dinner first, in order to lower your suspicions. Another
the pocket wifi’s are that you can keep these devices in way they will try to lure you in is by talking to you in
your pocket and 5 to 10 people can connect via broad- Turkish, and when you mumble back in your language
band speed mobile internet all the time. they will be surprised you're not Turkish and immediately
will feel the urge to repay you for their accident with a
beer.
141.14 Stay safe A recently encountered variant of this involved an invi-

tation in Taksim to two male tourists (separately, within
an hour of one another) to buy them beer (as they were
As with most European cities, but especially in crowded
“guests”). At the club, two attractive ladies, also with
areas of Istanbul, watch your pockets and travel docu-
beers, joined them. When the time came for the bill, the
ments as pickpockets have devised all sorts of strategies
person inviting the tourist denied having said he would
to obtain them from you. Do not rely too much on the
pay for the drinks, and a bill was presented for 1500 Lira;
'safe' feeling you get from the omnipresence of police-
when the tourists in question expressed an inability to pay
men. Taksim Square, Sultanahmet Square, Istiklal Av-
such a high amount, burly “security” personnel emerged,
enue, Kadikoy Square etc.. security cameras monitored
who the manager explained would accompany the tourist
by police 24/7 non-stop.
to an ATM machine (presumably to clean out their bank
Istanbul is home to three of the biggest clubs in Turkey account). In one of the above examples, the tourist es-
and arguably European football: Beşiktaş, Fenerbahçe, caped by shouting for the police once on the street; in
and Galatasaray. It is advisable not to wear colours as- the other, a much lower amount was accepted from the
sociating yourself with any of the clubs—black&white, tourist.
blue&yellow, and red&yellow respectively, particularly
In either of these scams, if you refuse to pay the high
on the days of matches between the sides due to the fear-
prices or try to call the police (dial #155) to file a com-
some rivalry they share.
plaint, the club managers may use physical intimidation
to bring the impasse to a close. If you find yourself in
such a situation for any reason, you should do whatever
141.14.1 Scams
they want you to do, pay the bill, buy the things they are
forcing you to buy, etc. Try to get out of the situation
Blue Mosque scam “guides”
as soon as possible, go to a safe place and call the police
When walking through the gates of the Blue Mosque, be- (dial #155). That said, sometimes there is a chance to
ware of smiling, friendly chaps who offer immediately to run, such as a case in August, 2009, when a man was able
be your de-facto guide through the mosque and its sur- to escape. His sudden leave may have caught the waiters
rounds; they'd be pretty informative on just about any- off guard; in all hastiness they forget to put someone at
thing relating to the mosque; etiquette, history and Is- the door, thus leaving an opening.
lamic practices. However, needless to say, they would Any bar that looks like it could be a strip club is more than
eventually demand a price for their “services”, a quota- likely a scam joint. Also be wary of men in Taksim who
tion that can be as high as 50TL (or equivalent to €25 or splash water on the backs of your neck. When you turn
UK£20). One would be better off booking a private tour around, they will try to start a fight with you as another
online; or not at all, since the mosque is essentially free man comes in and robs you. These men tend to carry
to all anyway. knives and can be very dangerous.
141.14. STAY SAFE 393
Lira/Euro Scams by making eye contact with the driver and waving. Few
taxi drivers speak languages other than Turkish, but do
A frequent scam, often in smaller hotels (but it can also a fair job at deciphering mispronounced location names
happen in a variety of other contexts), is to quote prices in given by foreign riders. It is advisable to have the name
Lira and then later, when payment is due, claim the price of the destination written down and try to have a map be-
was given in Euros. Hotels which reject payment early forehand to show the driver, to avoid any misunderstand-
in a stay and prefer you to “pay when you leave” should ing and also potential scams. Though taxis are plentiful,
raise suspicions. Hotels which operate this scam often be aware that taxis are harder to find during peak traffic
offer excellent service and accommodation at a reasonable hours and traffic jams and when it is raining and snow-
price and know most guests will conclude as much and ing. They are also less frequent during nights, depending
pay without complaint - thus (ironically) this can be a sign on the area and are hard to find after midnight.
of a good hotel.
Try to avoid using taxis for short distances (5–10 minutes
Another scam is coin-related and happens just as you're of walk) if possible. Some taxi drivers can be annoyed
walking into the streets. A Turkish guy holds you and with this, especially if you called the cab from a taxi hub
asks where you are from. If you mention a Euro-country, instead of hailing it from the street. If you want taxis for
the guy wants you to change a €50 note from you into €2 short distances, just hail them from the street, do not go
coins he is showing. He is holding the coins stack-wise to the taxi hub.
in his hands. For the trouble, he says he will offer you
Few taxis have seatbelts, and some drivers may seem to
'30 €2 coins, making €60 in total'. Do not agree with
be reckless. If you wish for the driver to slow down, say
this exchange of money, as the first coin is indeed a €2
“yavash lütfen” (slow please). Your request may or may
coin, but (many of) the rest of the coins will probably be
not be honored.
1 Lira coins (looking very similar), but worth only 1/4 of
the value of €2. Unfortunately, as in any major city, tourists are more
vulnerable to taxi scams than locals. Be aware that taxi
Many bars in the Taksim area give you counterfeit bills.
drivers use cars affiliated with a particular hub, and that
They are usually well-made and hard to identify as fakes
the name and phone number of the hub, as well as the
in the dark. One way to verify its authenticity is to check
license plate number, are written on the side of each car.
its size against another bill. Another is to hold the bill up
Noting or photographing this information may be useful
to a strong light, face side up, and check for an outline
if you run into problems. In general, riding in taxis af-
of the same face which is on the bill. The value of the
filiated with major hotels (Hilton, Marriot, Ritz, etc.) is
bill (20, 50, etc.) should appear next to the outline, light
safe, and it is not necessary to stay in these hotels to use
and translucent. If either if these two security features
a taxis leaving from their hubs.
are missing, try to have the bill changed or speak to the
police. Others may take unnecessarily long routes to increase
the amount due (although sometimes alternate routes are
also taken to avoid Istanbul traffic, which can be very
Shoebrush bad). Some scams involve the payment transaction; for
example, if the rider pays TRY50 when only TRY20 are
Some men will walk around Taksim (or other tourist- needed, the driver may quickly switch it with a TRY5 note
frequented areas) with a shoeshine kit, and the brush will and insist that the rest of the TRY20 is still due or may
fall off. This is a scam to cause some Western tourist with switch the real bill for a fake one and insist that different
a conscience to pick it up and return it to the owner, who money be given.
will then express gratitude and offer to shine your shoes
for free. While doing that, he will talk about how he is Methods to avoid taxi scams:
from another city and how he has a sick child. At the end, 1. SIT IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT. Watch
the shiner will demand a much higher price for the “free” the meter. Watch the driver’s actions (beeping the horn,
services provided than is the actual market norm. A sim- pumping the brakes, etc.) and note what the taximeter
ilar trick is to ask for a cigarette and proceed similarly. does. While it is rare, some drivers will wire parts of their
If you actively decide that you would like your shoes controls to increase the fare upon activation. If you're
shined, then expect to pay not more than 5 lira for both. with your significant other, do it anyway. Save the cud-
dling for after the ride. Check if the seal on the taximeter
is broken. Use your phone for light. This will make the
Taxi drivers driver realize that you are cautious. Note that for women
it is better to sit in the back seat (where you can see the
Taxis are plentiful in Istanbul and inexpensive by West- meter from the middle), as there are occasionally prob-
ern European and American standards. They can be lems with taxi drivers getting overly friendly, and sitting
picked up at taxi hubs throughout the city or on the streets. in the front is a sign that a woman welcomes such behav-
Empty cabs on the streets will honk at pedestrians to see if ior.
they would like a ride, or cabs can be hailed by pedestrians
2. Ask “How much to go to...?" (basic English is un- 141.14.3 Stalking

derstood), before getting in the taxi. Price will be quite
accurate to the one in the taximeter at the end of the ride. Men intent on stalking foreign women may be present in
If the price sounds ok for you, get in the cab and tell them tourist locations. Such men may presume that foreigners
to put the Taximeter on. Since 2009, the rate they are ap- have a lot of money or liberal values and may approach
plying is same during night and day. foreign women in a flirtatious or forward manner looking
for sex or for money (either by theft or selling over-priced
3. Know the route. If you have a chance, find a map
goods). If you are being harassed, use common sense
and demand that the driver take your chosen route to the
and go to where other people are; often this is the nearest
destination. Oftentimes they will drive the long way or
store. Creating a public scene will deter many stalkers,
pretend not to know where you're going in order to get
and these phrases may be useful in such cases:
more money out of you. If the driver claims not to know
the route to a major landmark or gathering place, refuse
his services as he is likely lying. • İmdat! - “Help me!"
4. Choose an elderly driver. Elderly taxi drivers are less • Ayıp! - “Rude!"
likely to cheat passengers.
• Bırak beni! - “Leave me alone!"
5. Let taxi driver see money on your hands and show val-
ues and take commitment on it. This is 50 Lira. OK? • Dur! - “Stop it!"
Take this 50 Lira and give 30 Lira back OK?. This guar-
antees your money value. Otherwise, your 50 Lira can be • Gider misin?! - “Will you go?!"
5 Lira immediately on his hands. Try to have always 10
Lira or 20 Lira bills in your wallet. This makes money Or to really ruin him:
scams in general more difficult. If you realize that the
driver tried to use the 50 Lira to 5 Lira trick on you, call • Beni takip etme?! - “Can you please stop stalking
the police (#155) immediately and write down the license me?!"
plate.
• Polisi ariyorum - “I am calling the cops!"
6. Create a big scene if there is a problem. If you are ab-
solutely positive you have been subject to a scam, threaten • Siktir Git - “Fuck off!"
to or call the police and, if you feel it will help, start
yelling. Taxi drivers will only rip off those they think Occasionally try not to use Turkish as the stalker will like
will fall for it; creating a scene draws attention to them it more, just scream and run and find a safer place with
and will make it easier to pay the correct rate. crowd and police.
141.14.2 Overpricing 141.14.4 Tourism Police

Watch the menu carefully in street cafes for signs that Istanbul PD has a “Tourism Police” department where
prices are not discriminatory — if prices are clearly over- travelers may report passport loss and theft or any other
inflated, simply leave. A good indication of over inflation criminal activity by which they are victimized. They have
is the circulation of two different types of menu — the an office in Sultanahmet and can reportedly speak En-
“foreigner” menu is typically printed on a laminated card glish, German, French, and Arabic.
with menu prices written in laundry marker/texta, i.e.,
prices not be printed; in these cases, expect that prices • Tourism Police (Turizm Polisi), Yerebatan Caddesi
for foreigners will be highly inflated (300% or higher). 6, Sultanahmet (in the yellow wooden building be-
While this is not really a problem in Beyoğlu or Ortaköy, tween Hagia Sophia and the entrance of Basilica Cis-
avoiding the open air cafes toward the rear courtyard of tern, few meters away from each), ☎ +90 212 527 45
the Spice Bazaar (Sultanahmet) is wise. The area imme- 03, fax: +90 212 512 76 76.
diately north of the Spice Bazaar is also crawling with
touts for these 'infamous’ cafes.
Having nargile (water pipe) is a famous activity in 141.15 Stay healthy
Istanbul,Tophane(top-hane)is a famous location for this
activity where a huge number of nargile shops are avail- Tap water may not be safe depending on where you drink
able and can easily be reached by the tram, avoiding a it. Although the tap water itself is clean, many local water
place called “Ali Baba” in Tophane is wise, usually you tanks are not maintained properly, and one should try to
will be served there with plates you did not ask for like avoid tap water if possible. Locals widely prefer bottled
a nuts plate, and expect to have a bill of around 50$ for water and the same applies for the restaurants. Expect to
your nargile ! pay for water in restaurants (around 2TL).
141.17. GO NEXT 395
Food and drinks are mostly of international standards. offers gorgeous scenery—which reaches its zenith
Some Turkish foods are known to use a variety of spices in autumn as the leaves change to crimson, golden,
which may affect international tourists who may not be purple, or anywhere in between—and a spectacular
accustomed to such ingredients, although most of it is ed- view of Bosphorus, which is seen like a turquoise
ible for any tongue. lake from an observation tower, which also serves
Use common sense when buying certain foods, particu- well as a spot for birdwatching.
larly from street vendors. Delicacies such as “Firin Sut-
lac” (a kind of rice pudding) can go bad rapidly on a hot
day, as can the oysters occasionally for sale on the streets.
141.16 Cope
Keep in mind that Istanbul’s less-than-scrupulous hotel
and restaurant owners are as market savvy as they come—
they actually read the popular travel guides to Istanbul
and when they get listed or favorably reviewed, they raise
prices through the roof and skimp on costs. For mid-
range and cheap hotels/restaurants, you may actually have
a better time if you avoid places listed in your guide.
Trust your nose.
Anadolu Kavağı with Yoros Castle to the upper left
141.16.1 Consulates
• Anadolu Kavağı — While officially the north-
ernmost district of the city, Anadolu Kavağı (also
141.17 Go next known simply as Kavak) on the Asian bank of
Bosporus is in reality a separate town, accessible
• Airports — You can easily connect to Atatürk air- only by a windy and narrow road through the for-
port via the Metro (possibly with a tram transfer. est, by infrequent public buses, or by ferries (the
However, if your flight is before when the Metro best way to go there). Ferries depart from Eminönü
starts working, you can use the Havaş airport shuttle (once or twice a day, from the pier named Boğaz
which departs from various points of the city from as İskelesi) and Sariyer (much more frequently), which
early as 04:00. Scheduling information can be found is the northernmost district on European side (to get
here and clicking on the airport you need: Havaş air- to Sariyer, you should take public bus #40 from Tak-
port shuttle information. An example would be from sim). While in Anadolu Kavağı, climb up to the
Taksim Square, which leaves as early as 04:00, costs citadel on the hill (follow the signs starting from the
10 TL, and takes 40 min. square near the quay, it takes about 20 minutes on
foot, free admission). The citadel is named Yoros
• Kilyos — Located by the Black-sea shore on the Eu- and it’s unclear who built it, maybe Byzantines or the
ropean side, Kilyos is a half-hour drive from Taksim Genoese perhaps, but it’s pretty obvious that it was
under normal circumstances. The village has more built to protect the northern entrance of Bosphorus.
than a dozen private and public beaches, some of The castle offers a perfect view of the entrance of
which require membership to enter. Though there Bosporus and the Black Sea beyond, as if not much
are ways to get to Kilyos with buses and dolmus, the has changed since Jason and the Argonauts sailed
best way is to use a private car, since the journey will through here in pursuit of Golden Fleece. When you
take longer than usual during summer. Note, that turn your back to Black Sea on the other hand, you’ll
the sea is rough, and high waves and currents make have a distant view of business district of the city,
it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for peo- full of skyscrapers. When you’re done in the castle,
ple who are not expert and cautious. Drownings oc- return back to town centre, and before boarding the
cur every year. For your safety, do not swim outside ship that will take you back to the city, have a waffle
the limits of the designated swimming area, which and a hot coffee in one of the cafés near the shore if
are marked by buoys. it’s winter. Recently a number of open-air cafes just
across the street from the citadel has been opened
• Atatürk Arboretum (living tree museum) is the as well, overlooking the pleasant wooded vale, the
place for nature lovers. Easily accessible by pub- village, and the Bosphorus below. (Note: Citadel
lic buses from various locations in the city, the ar- and surrounding areas get really crowded at week-
boretum near the Black Sea coast in a verdant forest ends during summer months, which makes falling
into mythical dreams a little difficult. Also avoid “Büyükada”, the biggest and most famous of them
staying around the castle after the night falls in win- all, has fairly frequent ferry connections to Eminönü
ter, as scarily large dogs occupy all over the place.) and Kabatas (on the European side) and Bostanci
and Kadikoy (on the Asian side) (depending on the
• Polonezköy — A village in the Asian side of Istan- time of year - check out the IDO and Mavi Marmara
bul, about 20 km away from central parts of the city. ferry services. Out of season it might be necessary
It was founded by Polish settlers in 19th century. to travel via Bostanci using the Mavi Marmara fer-
ries). At Büyükada you can rent bikes and find some
very secluded spots perfect for a picnic, highly rec-
ommended for when you're tired of being in a huge
city with millions of people.
• Büyükçekmece — not many travellers think of the

western suburbs of the city as a sightseeing desti-
nation, but this little lakeside town can fill up some
spare hours thanks to its 16th-century stone bridge,
mosque, and caravanserai
• Marmara Islands further out in the Sea of Mar-

mara is a less urban alternative to Princes’ Is-
lands, and with connections to Asian mainland (to
Bandırma via Erdek) can be a stopover on the longer
route to Izmir.
The castle on the rugged coastline of Şile
• Silivri — It’s a place of choice for people to relax

• Şile — Located by the Black-Sea shore on the Ana- & take a break from their hectic lives. Silivri is a 45
tolian side, Şile is a 45 minutes drive to Taksim. minutes drive to Levent. The best way to commute
Though, it will take ca. 1.5–2 hours to get there if is to use a private car, since the journey will take
you take the bus from Üsküdar. It is a village grow- longer than usual during summer. The summer is a
ing rapidly, famous for its fish and special cotton fab- popular time when people move into their summer
ric Şile Bezi (cloth of Şile). Similar to Kilyos, Şile homes in Silivri and enjoy beach activities. In fact,
also has its own private and public beaches. Note, many new and spectacular villages have also been
that the sea is rough, and high waves and currents as built there.
well as the dangerous sand type of the sea, make it
difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for peo- • Edirne in the west/northwest is a two-hour car drive
ple who are not expert and cautious. Drownings oc- or bus ride away (train is also an option but it takes
cur every year. For your safety, do not swim outside much longer). This beautiful city served as the cap-
the limits of the designated swimming area, which ital city of Ottoman Empire before the capital was
are marked by buoys. moved to Istanbul, thus is full of history. Visiting
this city can be a long day trip if you have a car at
• Ağva — Lying to the east of Şile, you can get to your disposal, or if you can get up very early and
Ağva by bus or car. By car, it will take 20-30' catch, say, 7 o’clock in the morning bus. It’s bet-
and by bus ca. 1 hour. Ağva is a tourist-attracting, ter to stay overnight to see all the sights though. If
small holiday village. It has less make-up for tourist. you have one more day to spare, instead of taking the
You can observe the local life. Although it is less shortest route, you can head to Edirne via the slightly
crowded than Kilyos and Şile due their relative prox- longer northern route and visit Kıyıköy—ancient
imity to Istanbul, its beach became due to the in- Medea, nowadays a fishing village on the Black Sea
crease of visitors dirty recently. But if you ask lo- with some traditional architecture, preserved city
cals, you can find wonderful, hidden beaches (such walls, and rock-cut St Nicholas Monastery—and
as “Kilimli”). Note, that the sea is rough, and high Vize (site of a very well preserved Byzantine cathe-
waves and currents make it difficult and somewhat dral, 20 km west of Kıyıköy) on the way.
dangerous to swim for people who are not expert
and cautious. Drownings occur every year. For your • Bursa to the south/southeast, about the exact oppo-
safety, do not swim outside the limits of the desig- site direction of Edirne, can be another long day-
nated swimming area, which are marked by buoys. trip, possibly combined with a de-tour to İznik on
the way. Bursa is another former Ottoman capital
• The Princes’ Islands — A group of islands off with many earlier historical sights, as well as Uludağ
the southern coast of the Asian Side of Istanbul. National Park just south of the city.
141.17. GO NEXT 397
• Çanakkale, about three hours away in the south- • There are also public buses from Kadiköy, Istanbul’s
west, is a pleasant city on the banks of the Straits of main centre on Asia, to Tuzla (#130 and #130A;
Dardanelles, and is the hub for visiting many nearby fare: TRY1.50/person, 7days/24 hours service ),
sites, such as Gallipoli World War I memorials, an- which is the easternmost district of the city. If you
cient Troy, and charming island of Bozcaada. take one of these buses, get off as soon as the bus
leaves the highway (colloquially known as E-5, pro-
nounced “ay besh” in Turkish, 4-lane one-way, you
• Sofia, Bulgaria, Using a night bus each way could
can easily recognize what is this highway and what
even make this an interesting (if tiring) day trip to
is not). Where you will get off is as far as you can
the capital of Bulgaria.
get on that highway with a public bus, though most
of the cars passing there will be too fast to be able
• Istanbul to New Delhi over land, a.k.a. "The Hip- to stop right beside you.
pie Trail" — over land route deep into South Asia.
• Istanbul to Cairo over land — over land route

deep into Middle East.
141.17.1 Possible hitchhiking spots
Istanbul is geographically huge, spanning two continents,

so it is hard to hit the road with your thumb up imme-
diately, although not entirely impossible. Here are a few
ideas for spots (accessible by public transport) where to
raise your thumb up when leaving the city.
• If you intend to head west (towards Europe)

by hitchhiking, take public bus #448 (Yenibosna
Metro-Mimarsinan) which departs from the bus
stops located next to the ‘Yenibosna’ station of
southern metro line. #448 takes you to the high-
way leading to west, to a highway on-ramp out of
city, near Mimarsinan town. Don’t get off the bus
until it leaves the highway by turning right in the
on ramp junction. (fare: TRY1.50/person, though
you’ll have to buy multi-use cards (at least 5 uses for
TRY7.50), which makes a bad investment assuming
that you are leaving the city. You can pay directly to
the driver inside the bus the single-use fare, though)
• If you intend to head east or south by hitchhik-

ing, however, it may be best to get to the neigh-
bouring city of Izmit first. The cheapest train ticket
costs TRY3.75 (TRY3.00 if you have a valid stu-
dent ID, this is the rate for Doğu Express, which
departs 08:35 every morning) from Istanbul’s Hay-
darpasa station to Izmit currently. Near the train
station in Izmit is a major highway junction, take
east for Adapazari/Ankara/Central Anatolia/Black
Sea Turkey, south for Yalova/Bursa. If you are ea-
ger for more southern locations such as Antalya, take
eastward road to Adapazari first, then hit the south-
ward road there (which eventually reaches Antalya
after hundreds of kilometers). Another option to
leave the city is to take the not-so-cheap fast ferries
to Yalova, if you don’t object to pay much for public
transport.
Chapter 142
Istanbul/Asian Side
The Asian Side (Turkish: Asya Yakası, or, more usually, to Kadıköy in 70 minutes (3 YTL). You can also alter-
Anadolu Yakası, i.e. “Anatolian Side”) is the eastern half natively take Havaş bus which connects this airport with
of the city of Istanbul, located east of Bosphorus and ge- Taksim in the European Side for 10 YTL. If you can,
ographically on the Asian mainland. fly into Sabiha Gökçen rather than Atatürk International,
because Sabiha Gökçen is much less busy and easier to
navigate.
142.1 Understand
Kadıköy (ancient Chalcedon) and Üsküdar (ancient By train
Chrysopolis/Scutari) form the historical cores of this part
of the city. Both started as cities independent of Istanbul
(in fact Khalkedon was founded about 30–40 years earlier
than Istanbul itself), and were only incorporated into the
city of Istanbul in late 19th century. It’s no coincidence
that the regular steamer services across the Bosphorus
was started a few years earlier.
Today Kadıköy and Üsküdar are the main commercial
zones on the Asian side. The rest of this part of the city
contains many soulless suburbs full of high-rise apartment
blocks and shopping malls, most of which date back no
more than 30 years (which, again, is no coincidence given
that the first inter-continental Bosphorus bridge had been
constructed a few years before). Major exceptions are
the Bosphorus coast, with its historical palaces, mansions,
and neighborhoods with character; and the coast of the
Sea of Marmara, all along which lies a lovely (and, un- Haydarpaşa Railway Station
surprisingly, long) park on the edge of which a number
of impressive wooden mansion lie. Haydarpaşa Station, Istanbul’s main railway station for
Known as the less crowded and more orderly half of Asian destinations, is located about 10 min walk away
the city, Asian Side nonetheless houses about 4.4 million from downtown Kadıköy. Drop by if you are nearby,
people, or one of every three Istanbulites, out of which even if you have no plan to take a train, since the sta-
around 1.3 million commute daily to Europe. tion building, built by the Germans in 1908 in a distinc-
tive Teutonic-castle style, is a sight in itself. It’s rumoured
that the architectural style of the building was deliberately
chosen, because, in the age of railways, it was the point
142.2 Get in where passengers from deep inland Asia have their first
sight of Europe, located across the Bosphorus. Likewise,
142.2.1 From outside of Istanbul Sirkeci station—the main station on the European Side—
which has a similar duty for passengers from Europe, has
By air a distinctive Oriental style.
Due to a major project to upgrade the train system so that
Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) is located on Asiatic it can use high-speed trains, as of February 2012 all trains
Side, about 20 km east of Kadıköy. To get to the centre to/from Haydarpaşa have been stopped during construc-
from there, you can take public bus E10 which brings you tion, until 2014.
398
142.2. GET IN 399
By bus • Üsküdar - Eminönü and then on to Eyüp in Golden

Horn
Harem is the name of the major otogar on this side,
and the first place of call in Istanbul of many buses from Fast ferries from places further away like Bakırköy
Asian Turkey. It’s located at about the mid-way between are available to Kadıköy (separate from liner pier) or
Üsküdar and Kadıköy and has frequent ferry links with Bostancı pier. But they are much more expensive than
Eminönü/Sirkeci. There isn’t a great deal there in terms liners.
of amenities, so bring a deck of cards or a book if you’re
going to need to wait there long.
By bus
By boat It’s possible to take a public bus crossing one of Bospho-

rus bridges, though not advisable during rush hour (7-
Fast ferries from places on the southern coast of the Mar- 10AM heading towards Europe, 6-8PM coming back to
mara Sea, such as Yalova or Bandirma are accessible from Asia), when all traffic on the bridges, and especially on
the pier at Bostancı. Some are direct, while others trans- the roads leading to them slow to a crawl. Note that all
fer to a smaller ferry after arriving at Yenikapı pier on public bus lines crossing the bridges require two tickets
the European side. The fast catamarans offer a uniquely (or the equivalent cash) rather than one, with the sole
smooth and pleasant ride—a great option for coming to exception of #129L (Levent-Kozyatağı line, which de-
or from Yalova, İznik or beyond. parts from next to 4. Levent metro station and termi-
nates in Kozyatağı, the main business district of Asian
Side), though it is of little interest to the average tourist.
142.2.2 From the rest of Istanbul Numbers of the most useful inter-continental lines are as
follows:
By boat
• 110 — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Kadıköy
• 120 — Mecidiyeköy to Kadıköy
• 112 — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Bostancı
• 128 — Mecidiyeköy to Bostancı
• 129T — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Bostancı, via the
foot of Çamlıca Hill, useful to getting there direct
from European Side
The metrobüs (#34A), which connects Edirnekapı just out

of old city walls on the European side with Söğütlüçeşme
just east of downtown Kadıköy (about 15-20 min away
on foot) via Mecidiyeköy and a number of other stations
The ferry pier in Kadıköy at night on the way, is a very quick option thanks to its special
lanes segregated from all other traffic, except a short sec-
Taking a liner or a mid-sized boat is the most sensible tion actually on the bridge itself. They are still much
way of getting to the Asian side from Europe, beating better than conventional buses, even on the bridge. Al-
the usually congested traffic on Bosphorus bridges. Major though metrobüs stations are usually a little off the usual
liner piers are located in Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Major tourist trail, they are easily accessible from more central
liner lines are as follows: (other boats also ply more or locations by a variety of public transportation, including
less the same routes) the metro from Taksim Square for Mecidiyeköy station.
#34A is a single-ticket line despite crossing the Bospho-
rus.
• Kadıköy – Eminönü
• Kadıköy – Karaköy (also calls at Haydarpaşa sta- By dolmuş

tion’s pier)
There are dolmuş lines operating almost 24 hours a day
• Kadıköy – Beşiktaş
between Taksim-Kadıköy, and Taksim-Bostancı. They
• Üsküdar - Eminönü depart from the street next to Atatürk Kültür Merkezi in
Taksim Square (opposite edge of the square from Istiklal
• Üsküdar - Beşiktaş Street) and cost about TL 5.50/person.
400 CHAPTER 142. ISTANBUL/ASIAN SIDE
Overland from the European side bikepath is well-maintained but be careful anyway: Al-
though it’s very unlikely that you’ll come across a motor-
See infobox to the right. ized vehicle, pedestrians –who aren’t very used to seeing
bikepaths in Turkish cities- have just begun to respect the
rules of bicycle lanes.
142.3 Get around
142.3.5 By tram
Kadıköy and Üsküdar are the main transport hubs of
this part of the city. From both, it is possible to find a Between Kadıköy and Moda, the one-way circular tradi-
direct dolmuş, bus or minibus line to almost anywhere in tional tram route offers a pleasant short ride. However,
Asian Istanbul, and also to a lot of places in the Euro- you will likely use it for the experience, rather than as a
pean Side. Bostancı on the coast of Marmara Sea is an useful transportation link.
important secondary hub.
142.4 See
142.3.1 By dolmuş
Dolmuşes ply between Kadıköy-Üsküdar, Kadıköy-

Bostancı and Bostancı-Kadıköy until late at night.There
are also dolmuşes from Kadıköy to Acıbadem, Koşuyolu
and various points.
142.3.2 By train
Suburban trains with frequent departures from Hay-

darpaşa head to Gebze out of city borders (44 km to
Kadıköy), following closely the Marmara sea-shore, call-
ing at Bostancı and a number (well, actually more than
20) of other stations on the way, including Kartal, Pendik,
and Tuzla among others. A ticket (jeton) is valid for once Beylerbeyi Palace
and costs about 2,00 TL.
142.3.3 By car
Major roads on the Asian side mostly follow a west-east

axis. These are the three major roads which connect
Kadıköy with locations east (from south to north): The
causeway (Sahil Yolu), which follows the coast of Mar-
mara Sea, Bağdat Avenue (one-way, and that is east to
west which means you cannot enter from Kadıköy), and
the road colloquially known as Minibüs Yolu. From
Üsküdar, the major road colloquially known with its
former European road number E-5 lies to east towards
depths of Asia, while another road also named Sahil Yolu
(Causeway) connects the neighborhoods on the bank of Maiden’s Tower in the evening
Bosphorus in the north to Üsküdar.
• Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı), Beylerbeyi

142.3.4 By bicycle (north of Üsküdar), ☎ +90 216 321-93-20, fax: +90
216 321-93-22. Tu-We, Fr-Su 9:30-16:00 (Oct-
There is a long (more than 20 km with some short inter- Feb); Tu-We Fr-Su 9:30-17:00 (Mar-Sep). Ly-
ruptions) and marked bicycle lane along the park which ing under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge, this
lies along the coast of the Sea of Marmara, starting from beautiful palace located amidst an attractive garden
a few km east of Kadıköy, passing by Bostancı and even- was built between 1861-1865 by Sultan Abdulaziz.
tually reaching furthest parts of the city in the east. The Strangely, one of the highligts of the palace is the
142.4. SEE 401
Beylerbeyi port
Yeni Valide mosque A street in Kuzguncuk
pensive, some others in the side-streets are cheaper.

• Çamlica Hill. One of the highest hills of Istanbul
(268 metres high). Almost all major broadcasting
antennas are located on this hill, since it dominates
a great part of the city. On the top of the hill, a
public park with cafes remind the visitors of an Ot-
toman atmosphere. Thıs public park is sponsored
by the government, so expect lower prices on food
and drink than usual. The cafe located in a building
at the top of the hill is moderately expensive, don't
worry about it though because you'll get excellent
food and service.
Anadoluhisarı
• Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi), Salacak (south of

restroom on its second floor, which has a large win- Üsküdar, about 15 min on foot away), ☎ +90
dow with a full view of Bosphorus—it is possibly 216 342-47-47, fax: +90 216 495-28-85, e-mail:
the restroom with the most beautiful view in the kule.operasyon@kizkulesi.com.tr. Maiden’s Tower,
world! Joining guided tours in major spoken lan- also called Leander’s Tower, is built on a small islet
guages which starts every half an hour (or whenever surrounded by waters of Bosphorus off the Üsküdar
there are enough people waiting) is the only way to coast where you can have breakfast before noon (a
visit the palace (no additional fee for tours other than standard breakfast costs 35 TL pp), have drinks dur-
the entry admission). ing day or dine (mid-expensive) inside the tower it-
self. The Tower is accessible by boats both from
• Beylerbeyi port. just north of the palace, is a small Salacak (very frequent intervals four seasons) or
port with a popular fishing dock and a number of from Kabataş in European Side, on the Bosphorus
restaurants and historic buildings like the large 18th waterfront at the end of the funicular line from Tak-
century Hamid-i Evvel mosque. Some restaurants sim Square (about once every two hours, summers
on the port-side serve alcohol and are moderately ex- only). Story has it that a powerful emperor built the
tower in the middle of the sea to protect his beloved Turkish military barracks) is the British cemetery
daughter from death after hearing a prophecy told with an obelisk commemorating the Crimean war
by a fortuneteller, but a snake had found its way to and many Crimean war, Victorian era (and later)
the tower (inside a basket of fruits) and, as you have graves as well as a modern British and Common-
already guessed, had bitten and killed the princess, wealth war graves cemetery. This is a beautiful,
although in reality it is far more likely that the place leafy oasis of calm, with views on the Bosphorus.
was built as a lighthouse to warn the ships entering
the Bosphorus about the rocky islet the tower was
built on. There is also a viewing area on the coast di- • Toy Museum (Oyuncak Müzesi), Ömerpaşa Cad-
rectly opposite the Tower where you can buy tea and desi, Dr. Zeki Zeren Sokağı 17, Göztepe (5
sit down to enjoy the beauty of Bosphorus while lis- min walk away from 'Göztepe' station of subur-
tening to traditional Turkish music—much cheaper ban train line), ☎ +90 216 359-45-50, e-mail:
than the Tower itself. It is recommended to visit info@istanbuloyuncakmuzesi.com. Tu-Su 9:30-
right at sunset, when the sun is reflecting off the wa- 18:00. Dedicated to toys, this is a museum which
ter and the Tower’s lights are turning on. Also at the adults can enjoy as much as kids. Founded by poet
viewing area, there are 2-person gondola rides. Sunay Akın, the museum is housed in a historical
mansion in Göztepe neighbourhood east of Kadıköy.
• Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue) (lying par- Among the 2,000 pieces of toys from around the
allel with (but a short dinstance away from) the world that are in exhibition, the oldest ones are a
Marmara coast between a few km east of Kadıköy violin made in France in 1817 and a doll made in
and Bostancı to the east). has nothing to do with the United States in 1820. 8 TL (5 TL for children).
Baghdad, Iraq except that, during the Ottoman pe-
riod, it was the beginning part of the road which
connected the capital city, Istanbul with Baghdad, • Anadolu Citadel (Anadolu Hisarı) (in the neigh-
another important city of the empire then. This av- bourhood of Anadolu Hisarı, up on the Bospho-
enue got its name because an Ottoman Sultan, Murat rus bank). Interior of the citadel is not open
IV, went to Baghdad on that avenue. In fact, with to public. A medieval citadel a little older and
its sidewalk cafés and Western restaurants, Bağdat much smaller than its European counterpart, situ-
Caddesi is usually considered as one of Istanbul’s ated on the meadow where tranquil Göksu River
most European-flavoured streets, ironically located empties into the Bosphorus, surrounded by pic-
in Asia. This street is not completely pedestrian- turesque wooden traditional houses.
ized like the Istiklal Street of the European Side, but
its broad sidewalks shaded with trees offer a pleas-
• Anadolu Kavağı. with its impressive citadel
ant walk. The restaurants and cafés on the avenue
named Yoros Kalesi on the hill, is the northernmost
are mainly upscale, but there are also some quite af-
part of Asian Istanbul. Ironically, it is easier to get to
fordable ones scattered around occasionally. Shop-
via a ferry from the European side. See Istanbul#Go
ping opportunities also abound. From Kadıköy, take
next for more details.
‘Bostancı’ dolmuş (they depart from near that big yel-
low balloon) or public bus #4 (its stop is also near the
balloon, but separate from dolmuş stop). • Yakacık Hill. located in a quite distant part
of Asian Istanbul (approximately 20 km east of
• Moda. A neighbourhood occupying the penin- Bosphorus) in Kartal (ancient Kartalimen) district
sula just south of Kadıköy, Moda features some has a great view of the city. Water springs and the
neo-classical architecture and parks on the sides of Aydos Hill (537 m), which is the highest point of Is-
the peninsula. It is a favourite place for people of tanbul, are the other remarkable destinations in the
Kadıköy of all ages to take a short stroll on a sum- region of Yakacik.
mer evening, and for the youth to enjoy a few beers
against the minaret and dome-filled skyline of Old
City. To get there, you can follow the waterfront • İçmeler (near Tuzla). has the only hot spring in
promenade from that big yellow balloon, or take the Istanbul.
vintage tram from downtown Kadıköy, though the
circular tram line does not make it all the way to tip • Kuzguncuk (a tiny neighborhood on the Bosphorus
of the peninsula of Moda. between Uskudar and Beylerbeyi (just south of the
foot of the Bosphorus Bridge)). was home to a large
• As mentioned before, Haydarpaşa Station, built in Christian and Jewish population until some decades
a turn of 20th century in German style is well worth ago and still has a number of sights like two syna-
a look and can be easily walked to from Kadıköy. gogues, some churches among which the Armenian
Further to the north of Haydarpaşa station and a lit- Surp Krikor Lusavoriç, dozens of wooden houses
tle difficult to find (it is surrounded on three sides by and a Jewish and Christian cemetery.
142.7. EAT 403
142.5 Do fish for you (though not necessarily the hamsi, or de-
licious local anchovies). Keep an eye out for stray
• Ride the balloon (Turk Balloon) in Kadıköy (easily cats sneaking off with bits of abandoned fish.
recognizable by its yellow color on Kadıköy coast).
Although it doesn’t stray much away from its base
–since it is always tied to the ground by a rope- it 142.7 Eat
offers a view of much of Istanbul –both European
and Asian Sides- from a height of 200 meters.
142.7.1 Budget
• Istanbul leg of Formula One annually takes place
• Kanaat Lokantası, Selmanipak Cad. no: 25,
in IstanbulPark, located about 20 km east of
Üsküdar (in the street behind the sea dock), ☎ +90
Kadıköy. City’s public transport authority (İETT)
216 341-54-44, fax: +90 216 341-68-55. Kanaat
provides frequent buses from Kadıköy and Bostancı
Lokantası, which dates back to 1933, is famous for
(and a number of locations in European Side as well)
its traditional Ottoman cuisine as well as a variety
during the race days.
of fascinating desserts. The prices are reasonable
but they accept nothing but cash.
• Caddebostan Beach (Caddebostan Plajı) (at Cad-
debostan, west of Bostancı, about half an hour’s
walk from there). Recently opened on the site of • Şelale Restaurant, Mühürdar Cad. Güneşli Bahçe
a beach existed 40 years ago, before Istanbul be- Sok. No:60, Kadıköy, ☎ +90 216 330-44-20, e-
came the behemoth it is today. Complete with a (re- mail: selalerestaurant@kadikoyweb.com. Kebabs
created) sandy strand 450 metres long, and a kiosk and similar stuff. Kebab with yoghurt (İskender)
offering snacks and soft drinks, the beach is run by there is tasty and slightly cheaper than elsewhere.
the city council. Becomes very crowded in summer From 10 TL.
weekends, though. 10 TL, including the deckchair
rent, restrooms, and shower. • Balık-ekmek (literally “fish-bread”, a grilled fish
sandwiched inside half a bread) is an increasingly
• Tarihi Çinili Hamamı, Murat Reis Mahallesi,
popular low-budget meal in buffets in Kadıköy
Çavuşdere Caddesi No. 204, ☎ 0 216 553 15 93
coast, which can be had for TL 3-3.50. The best
(men) 0 216 334 97 10 (women). Cheaper then in
balık ekmek can be bought from any of the stands
European side - about 40 liras for full massage and
just off the ferry dock. Some of the various fish
scrub.
restaurants in the market area a little inland also
• Catch a classical musical performance at the sell balık ekmek and mussel sandwiches with garlic
Süreyya Opera House. For a time a movie theatre, sauce onto the street.
this turn-of-the-20th-century Beaux Arts building
now houses performances of ballet, opera, and clas-
sical concerts once more, and good tickets are often 142.7.2 Mid-range
extremely cheap.
• Çiya Sofrası, Caferağa Mah. Güneşlibahçe
Sk. 43, Kadıköy (in the 'Fish Market'), ☎ +90
142.6 Buy 216 330-31-90, fax: +90 216 349-19-02, e-mail:
info@ciya.com.tr. Regional tastes ranging from
Balkans to Asia, Caucasus to Mesopotamia, with
• You can go shopping in Kadıköy, Üsküdar and Bağ-
much delicious kebabs. From €10-15 pp.
dat Street. The sale (prices 50% off) season for
winter is after New Years Day and for summer after
July. • Hatay Restaurant, Bağdat Caddesi 526,
Bostancı, ☎ +90 216 361-33-57, e-mail:
• Smart locals do a lot of their shopping at the Salı info@hatayrestaurant.com. 1PM-midnight. A
Pazarı or Tuesday Bazaar, located in Hasanpaşa traditional restaurant for tasting Rakı with mezes.
not far from the Fenerbahçe Stadium. You can Famous amongst Turkish poets. From 20-30 TL.
get good deals here on everything from produce to
clothes to housewares. This is a less touristy bazaar
experience than what many see at the Grand Bazaar • Tike Kebap Şaşkınbakkal, Kazım Özalp Caddesi
on the European side. 58, Kadıköy, ☎ +90 216 467-59-14, fax: +90
216 467-52-43, e-mail: tike@tike.com.tr. 1PM-
• The fish bazaar in the Kadıköy market area is where midnight. A luxury traditional restaurant for tast-
the locals go for fresh fish and seafood. Fish shops ing Turkish kebab on the waterfront avenue (Sahil
are open all week long; most of them will clean the Yolu). From 30-40 TL/pp.
• Nakkaş Kebap, Gümüşyolu Cad. Eski Taş Ocağı Dorms from 12 €, single from 25€, double from 30
Sokak No:27, Nakkaştepe, ☎ +90 0216 495 65 15. € (check the website as prices vary from day to day).
A large restaurant with traditional Turkish kebap
and “mezes” (appetizers).
142.9.2 Mid range
142.7.3 Splurge • Hotel Deniz, Gn. Şahap Gürler Cad. No:2,
Kadıköy (right across the street from Haydarpaşa
Station), ☎ +90 216 348 74 55, fax: +90 216
142.8 Drink 347 68 67, e-mail: info@denizotel.com.tr. Rooms
with air-conditioner, TV, en-suite bathrooms. 24-
Kadıköy has a nightlife scene of its own, smaller than hr room service provided. 130/150/165 YTL sin-
Beyoğlu of European Side, but just as lively. From the gle/double/triple rooms.
quay where liners from Eminönü arrives (signed as Em-
inönü Karaköy İskelesi), first cross the main street, then • Hotel Zirve, Rıhtım Caddesi, Reşitefendi Sokak
turn right, from the corner where Starbucks is located, No:36, Kadıköy, ☎ +90 216 414 51 42, +90 216 414
turn left. You’ll come across two churches facing each 51 43, +90 216 414 53 04. All rooms have cable tv,
other; turn right there. On that street and the upper one wireless internet and are comfortable lodgings at a
parallel to it, you’ll find lots of bars (some of which of- good price. 55-120 YTL.
fer live music), pubs, and Turkish taverns. A few blocks
uphill from there is the street colloquially known as Bar-
lar Sokağı (Turkish for “Street of Bars”), where there are 142.9.3 Splurge
more places for a drink. If you can’t manage to find that
street, ask young people for directions to Rexx Sineması • A'jia Hotel, ☎ +90 216 413 9300, fax: +90 216 413
(pronounced rex cinema-suh). That cinema/movie the- 9355, e-mail: info@ajiahotel.com. Çubuklu Cad-
atre is very near that street, and is widely known. desi No:27, Kanlica. A unique boutique hotel lo-
cated on the Asian side of the city facing the beauti-
• Karga, Kadife Sokak 16, Kadıköy (on 'Barlar ful Bosphorus. Rooms include air-con, TV, safe, wi
Sokağı'), ☎ +90 216 449 1725, fax: +90 216 346 fi. Rooms range from €250-850.
5546, e-mail: info@kargabar.org. A finely deco-
rated bar situated in a three-storey old building with • Hotel Suadiye, ☎ +90 216 445 84 24, fax: +90 216
wooden ceilings and floors. Also has a small yard at 445 20 02, e-mail: info@hotelsuadiye.com. Plaj
the back. 7 TL for a pint (0.50 litre) of beer. Yolu, 25, 34740 Suadiye. A 4 star hotel located
on the Sahilyolu,very close to the Bağdat Avenue.
• Caddebostan Balans Brau, very nice place for Rooms include air-con, TV, safe, wi fi. Rooms
beer (especially house-made Weisbier) and sausage. range from €150 for 3 persons.
On the Bağdat Street.
• Coffee chains around the Anatolian side (Kadıköy 142.10 Connect

and Bağdat Caddesi) are very popular. Starbucks,
Gloria Jean’s Coffee, and Kahve Dünyası (especially The area code of this half of the city is (+90) 216, which
for Turkish Coffee). Kahve Dünyası is well worth a is different from the European Side.
visit as a comparatively upscale, indigenously Turk-
ish take on the Starbucks theme.
142.10.1 Internet
142.9 Sleep • Cafeinn Internet Cafe, Caferağa Mah. Sarraf Ali

Sokak 35/1, Kadıköy (just off Mühürdar Caddesi,
the street one block inland from waterfront, parallel
142.9.1 Budget to it). Quite good computers though most software is
a little outdated, so may not support latest additions,
• Hush Hostel Lounge, İskele Sk No:46, (about
such as some kinds of alphabets/fonts. 2 TL/hr.
500m north-east of Kadiköy port), ☎ +90 216 450
4363. While the hostel is located in close proxim-
ity to Kadiköy port which allows quickly getting to
pretty much anywhere in Istanbul, it is located in a
very calm side-street. Rooms are generously spa-
cious, bright, clean & cosy. Bathrooms are typi-
cally shared, breakfast is included, Wifi is very slow.
Chapter 143
Istanbul/Bosphorus
143.2 Get around

A wide array of public buses depart from Kabataş tram
station (currently, terminus of T1 line) and head for dif-
ferent neighbourhoods lined along the Bosphorus, passing
via Beşiktaş. All drive through the avenue which closely
follows the waterfront. Line #25E makes the longest
through service, and generally takes around an hour, but
significantly longer weekends in nice weather. It connects
Kabataş with the northern district of Sarıyer, leaving out
Ortaköy Mosque—one of the symbols of the city
only a few villages further north near the coast of Black
Sea, which are accessible by connecting buses departing
Along the Bosphorus (Turkish: Boğaz, but Boğaziçi— from Sarıyer.
literally “inside the Bosphous”—is preferred when refer-
ring to the areas on the bank of Bosphorus, rather than the
Bosphorus itself), the strait that lies between the Sea of
Marmara and the Black Sea, and separating Europe and 143.3 See
Asia, lies a number of neighborhoods each with a differ-
ent character (possibly due to the fact that they all started
as separate fishing villages and some are still physically
separated from each other by lush woodlands), palaces of
the late Ottoman period, and parks. This is quite eas-
ily one of the most scenic—yet largely overlooked by
travellers—parts of Istanbul, which reaches its zenith dur-
ing late spring (especially in early May), when the Ju-
das trees (Turkish: Erguvan, Latin: Cercis siliquastrum),
which are some sort of symbol of the Bosphorus and
dotting the hills along the Bosphorus, are in full bloom
of their deep-pink flowers that engulf both shores of the
strait.
This article concentrates on European bank of Bosphorus.
For the Asian bank, see Istanbul/Asian Side.
Waterfront of Arnavutköy
143.1 Get in • Akaretler Street (Akaretler Caddesi) (just south of

central Beşiktaş). Akaretler Caddesi, or officially
• Buses to this district depart from Kabataş tram sta- Süleyman Seba Caddesi features upscale garment
tion, Taksim Square, and Beşiktaş among others. boutiques, restaurants, and sidewalk cafés housed in
recently renovated late Ottoman era rowhouses ini-
• Dolmuşes to Beşiktaş are available from Taksim,
tially built for the state elite, given their proximity to
and Nişantaşı in European Side, and Kadıköy, and
Dolmabahçe Palace, imperial headquarters then.
Bostancı in Asian Side.
• Ferries from Üsküdar and Kadıköy in Asian Side • Arnavutköy (north of Ortaköy, south of Be-
anchor at Beşiktaş quay. bek). The neighbourhood of Arnavutköy (literally
405
406 CHAPTER 143. ISTANBUL/BOSPHORUS
at the Dolmabahçe shore. Build on 110,000 meter

square ground with 285 rooms and 43 halls where
the Ottoman empire was administered in the last
150 years. Visits only in guided tours (45 min) in
major spoken languages. Extra fee for Harem, the
part of the palace the residents lived, expect waiting
some time for another guided tour there. The
Dolmabahce Palace is definitely not as nice as one
would expect for the hefty cost of 40TL per person.
No photography is allowed inside the palace. Also
important note, especially for photographers with
large bags/backpacks: you may be asked to leave
your backpack in the cloakroom, even though you
are not supposed to know it before you stand in
Dolmabahçe Palace a 40 minute line to the ticket office. 30 TL for
'Selamlık', 20 TL for 'Harem', 40 TL for both.
Reduced admission price for students.
• Emirgan Park (Emirgan Korusu) (about 20 min

on foot away from main waterfront avenue). Situ-
ated on the gentle hill overlooking the neighbour-
hood of Emirgan and the Bosphorus, Emirgan Park
was for long the only place in the city where Istan-
bulites can admire the beauty of tulips. Having lost
that distinction in the last decade as tulips are now
everywhere, this is still a beautiful park with arti-
ficial ponds, small waterfalls, and impressive views
of Bosphorus. There are also cafes with open-air
sections housed in pleasant former imperial hunting
manors. Squirrels are there, too, in the middle of
The gate of Dolmabahçe Palace grounds this metropolis of 15+ million people, though you
may have to look a bit deeper (or a bit upper on the
branches!) to spot them. Free.
• Maçka Park (Maçka Parkı) (between Dolmabahçe

Palace and that high-rise of Ritz Carlton). This is
a park occupying two sides of a valley of this hilly
city, with an avenue in between. Sides of the valley
are connected to each other by a 4-person gondola
lift line offering a shortcut when walking to Taksim
Square as well as nice views of Bosphorus (access to
northern station from Maçka Caddesi/Eytam Cad-
desi, every 5 minutes 8:00-20:00, 1.50 TL pp one-
way), and by a wooden bridge over the bisecting av-
enue if you prefer to take a stroll along nice footpaths
of the park. Free.
Rumeli Fortress in spring, when Judas Trees are in bloom
• Ortaköy (north of Beşiktaş). A neighbourhood on

"Albanian village”, paying homage to its founders the bank of Bosphorus with the Ortaköy Mosque—
in 1500s) features impressive 4-storey wooden man- the baroque mosque under the Bosphorus Bridge,
sions which line the waterfront, all bearing signifi- combination of which are one of the most iconic
cant artwork on their facades. images of Istanbul. This artsy neighbourhood is
filled with nice cafes, some of which offer kumpir—
• Dolmabahce Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı), a baked potato with various fillings such as mayon-
Dolmabahçe Cad., Beşiktaş, ☎ +90 212 236 90 00, naise, ketchup, pickles, sweetcorn, sausage slices,
fax: +90 212 236 35 77. Tu-We/Fr-Su 9AM-3PM. carrots, mushrooms, Russian salad among others—
It is the Ottoman Palace centered close to Taksim which the neighbourhood is well-known for, and a
143.4. DO 407
212 242-38-13, fax: +90 212 242-03-65, e-mail:

shm@mail.koc.net. Th-Tu 10:00-17:00. A private
museum housed in a yalı, traditional wooden water-
front mansions that lie along the banks of Bospho-
rus. Exhibition includes a number of archaeological
and ethnographical artifacts from the collection of
Koç Family, though just seeing the interior of a yalı
is worth entering. 7TL.
• Sakip Sabanci Museum (Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi),

Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42, Emirgan (Buses: 40, 40T
from Taksim; 22, 22RE, 25E from Kabataş. Get off
at Çınaraltı stop), ☎ +90 212 277 22 00, fax: +90
212 229 49 14, e-mail: muze@sabanciuniv.edu. Tu,
Kumpir Th, Fr, Su 10:00-18:00; We, Sa 10:00-22:00. Mu-
seum with a rich collection of calligraphy and paint-
ings. It also hosts temporary exhibitions of works by
some world-class artists such as Pablo Picasso from
time to time. 10 TL (3 TL students).
143.4 Do
Ortakoy Pier
perfect view crowded and fun. The way from Beşik-

taş takes around 25 minutes on foot and is along
an avenue shaded by huge plane trees, though the
usually-heavy traffic may take some of its peaceful-
ness away.
Looking south below the FSM Bridge, towards the city centre —
Europe is on the right, and Asia on the left (due to the bend of the
• Rumeli Citadel (Rumeli Hisarı) (on the water- Bosphorus, more of the Asian landmass can also be seen ahead)
front, right next to the main avenue). Built in first
half of 1400s, this is the large medieval castle un-
der the Second Bosphorus Bridge. Its former name • Bosphorus Cruise The best way to see the Bospho-
Boğazkesen (Turkish)/Laimokopia (Greek) means rus in all its beauty is to take a boat trip. This is the
both “strait-blocker” and “throat-cutter” in both lan- strategic waterway connecting the Black sea to the
guages and denotes the reason of its building—to Mediterranean, and dividing Istanbul into two conti-
shut the supply routes from the Black Sea in the nents. As the boat zigzags between Asia and Europe,
north into the slowly falling apart Byzantine Em- you can admire the old Ottoman wooden houses, 6
pire through the Bosphorus. Rumeli, literally “Ro- Ottoman palaces, 2 suspended bridges, and 2 me-
man land”, was the name of the European half of dieval castles.
Ottoman Empire, and as is usual with some other
structures and villages along the Bosphorus, used as
a prefix to differentiate Rumeli Hisarı from its coun- It is somewhat of a tourist trap. One-way is 13 lira, re-
terpart in Asian Side, the much smaller Anadolu tour 26. The standard price for one hop for locals is 1.5
Hisarı, located just across the Bosphorus. lira. On Sundays there are fewer boats. If you are not so
lucky/fast to get one of the few deckseats it gets very hot
• Sadberk Hanım Museum (Sadberk Hanım inside, even hotter than in the city.
Müzesi), Büyükdere Piyasa Caddesi 27-29, Sarıyer There are also daily trips from Eminönü, by 10.30AM in
(on the waterfront, just south of Sarıyer), ☎ +90 the morning and come back by 4.30PM in the evening. It
costs 20 YTL per trip per person. There is an additional Sariyer/Istanbul, ☎ +90 212 202 52 88. 11:00AM-
boat by 1.30PM in summer. 00:00AM. Special lamb B&Q, kebabs, country
For travelers that don't want to bother with getting off the breakfast, beer, rakı and other alcoholic drinks,
boat/taking the bus to take a deeper look into some of Nargile (Waterpipe, Sheesha) available.
the Bosphorus neighbourhoods, there are also boats de-
parting from Ortaköy which allow you to see waterfront
from a distance up to the Second Bosphorus Bridge in the
143.6.2 Mid-range
north, though they don't allow you to get off at any neigh-
• Vagabondo’s Ristorante & Pizzeria
bourhood quay you like (in fact they don't stop anywhere
(Vagabondo’s Restaurant & Pizza), Köybaşı
until they get back to Ortaköy).
Cad. Yalılar Durağı No: 168 Yeniköy / İstanbul, ☎
+90 212 299 00 54. 11:00AM-00:00AM. Italian
cuisine; pizza, steak, pasta, wines and other alcohol
143.5 Buy available.
• Super Yedigün, Kavak İskele Cadessi 29, Rumili,

☎ +90 (0212) 271 0084. Great seafood restaurant
at the cost.
• Uzunya, ☎ +90 0212 2040731, e-mail:

rezervasyon@uzunya.com. Cozy seafood restaurant
at the Black Sea. Very popular for weekend
breakfasts.
143.6.3 Splurge
Istinye Park mall, Istanbul
• Naz Turkish Cuisine, Bayıldım Cad. No:2 Maçka,
Beşiktaş, ☎ +90 212 326 11 75. 11:30AM-1AM.
• IstinyePark, İstinye Bayırı Cadessi (at Maslak), Turkish cuisine.
☎ +90 (212) 345 55 55. Beautiful mall with 300
stores, many good restaurants and cafes. • Park Fora. Great seafood, located in Kuruçeşme
park right on the edge of the sea, it has a very nice
view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The
143.6 Eat waiters know English. Prices range from 50 - 150
YTL per person.
• Divan. Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No: 121, Bebek, +90

212 257 72 70. At first sight it may seem like a
mere patisserie, but walk downstairs and you'll find
a lovely restaurant with the waters of the Bosphorus
right next to you. The food is simply first-class and
the service is very good, too.
• Ulus 29, Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad-

desi 71, ☎ +90 212 358 29 29, e-mail:
rezervasyon.29@ulus29.com. Dinner 18:30-
late; Lunch Mo-Fr 12:00-15:00. Upscale restaurant
with an amazing view over the Bosperus.
Fishmonger in Sariyer, Istanbul, Turkey 143.7 Drink

• Kazan, Beşiktaş Caddesi 35, Beşiktaş (in down-
143.6.1 Budget town Beşiktaş; on the main avenue parallel to water-
front, just opposite the Naval Museum/square with
• Yeşil Çiftlik Restaurant (Yeşil Çiftlik Restau- the sculpture of Barbarossa Haireddin Pasha), ☎
rant), Kilyos Yolu Uskumruköy Kavsağı No:30 +90 212 261-58-45. 11AM-midnight daily. A quite
143.9. CONNECT 409
elegantly decorated local pub in which fans of Beşik- 143.8.2 Mid-range

taş FC that could not make it to the stadium, old and
young, male and female, like to watch the games on 143.8.3 Splurge
live broadcast. During summer months, they also
have an open-air section just next to the sidewalk • Ciragan Palace Kempinski, Çiragan Caddesi
where smoking is free. Quite good value and is ac- No:32, Besiktas (On the Bosphorus coast just
tually cheaper than how it looks in the first glance. south of the main square of Ortakoy,), ☎ +90
5 TL for a pint (0.5 lt) of draft beer, slightly more 212 326 4646, fax: +90 212 259 6687, e-mail:
expensive during the nights when there is a game reservations.ciraganpalace@kempinski.com. This
(about 7 TL for a pint of beer; when they also charge hotel is in a residence of the last Sultan. Rooms
20 TL pp for entry). come with air-con, TV, minibar and safety deposit
box. Hotel has several restaurants and lounges,
• Sheerwood, Kaymakçı Sokak 14, Ortaköy (close to pools, jacuzzi, Turkish baths, gym and other ameni-
the Ortaköy Mosque), ☎ +90 212 236 12 18. This ties. Rooms start around $450 (USD) and can get
pub/bar has extremely friendly staff service, and much higher..
cheap drinks. At nights it becomes a sort of disco.
Sherwood has two floors, second of which offers live • Ritz-Carlton Istanbul, Suzer Plaza, Elmadag,
music. Askerocagi Caddesi No: 15, Sisli., ☎ +90 212 334
44 44, fax: +90 212 334 44 55. Standing tall
near the Bosphorus, the Ritz Carlton is located in
• Q Jazz Club, Ciragan Caddesi 84, Besiktas, +90
the heart of Istanbul overlooking the Bosphorus and
2122362121. 10AM-4AM. Jazz lovers cannot miss
Dolmabahce Palace.
this a 17th-century brick cellar style bar that caters
to the whims of jazz fans.
• W Hotel Istanbul, Süleyman Seba Caddesi 2,
Akaretler, Beşiktaş., ☎ +90 212 381 2121. WiFi,
Two of the hottest clubs of Istanbul are in Ortaköy: Fitness center and business center onsite as well as
a fine dining restaurant that tempts patrons with its
• Crystal, Muallim Naci Caddesi 109, +90 212 decadent offerings.
2611988. Midnight-5AM. One of Istanbul’s biggest
underground clubs: house and techno can be heard • Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul, Bayıldım
on Fridays and Saturdays, garage and jazzy house on Caddesi No:2 Maçka, Beşiktaş (Located on a
Wednesdays. hill behind the Dolmabahce Palace,), ☎ +90 212
326 1100, fax: +90 212 326 1122, e-mail:
• Reina, Muallim Naci Caddesi 44. Actually a vast istanbul@swissotel.com. The last residence of the
playground filled with bars, restaurants and dance Ottoman Sultans. Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istan-
floors. Voted one of the best outdoors clubs in Eu- bul commands panoramic views of the Bosphorus,
rope. the Asian coast and the old city of Istanbul.
• Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Istanbul,

143.8 Sleep Çırağan Caddesi 46, Ortaköy, Beşiktaş, ☎ +90
212 310 1500, fax: +90 212 310 1515, e-mail:
Accommodation close to Bosphorus are mostly upmar- info.bosphorus.istanbul@radissonblu.com. 120
ket. rooms and 7 meeting rooms with technical equip-
ment, wellness center, and underground parking.
The hotel has one all day dining restaurant, one bar
and a private venue that highlight the city as Star-
143.8.1 Budget
board Restaurant offers a spectacular Bosphorus
view; “Cruise Lounge & Bar”, with its scenery; and
• Istanbul Hostel, Türkali Mah. Şehit Asım Cad.
“Pupa Terrace”, a venue for private events, dinners,
60, Beşiktaş, ☎ +90 212 227-41-30, e-mail:
or cocktails.
tazmaniahostel@gmail.com. Check-in: 11am,
check-out: flexible. Six-, four-, three- and two-bed
dorms. Free wireless and free internet. Staff can
arrange transport to and from the airport, and the 143.9 Connect
hostel has a travel agency which can set you up with
other hostels and trips in the country. Atmosphere A number of standard internet cafés (i.e. which offer
is good. They also have a garden where guests can broadband connection, printer, and CD burner, and most
smoke. dorms 20 TL. likely a meager selection of canned soft drinks) can be
found on the side alleys—especially on those to your left ends, and comfortably loose at other times, served
when Beşiktaş is behind you—of Barbaros Bulvarı, the by frequent minibuses
large avenue going uphill from main square of Beşiktaş.
• Atatürk Arboretum — close to the village of
Bahçeköy to west (served by buses from elsewhere
in the city as well as Sarıyer), this “living tree mu-
143.10 Stay safe seum” goes breathtakingly beautiful amidst autumn
mists, but with its ponds and views over the Bospho-
There is not much safety issues in this part of the city rus, is also highly scenic at other seasons, too
really, at least not as much as you'd expect from a city of
this size. • Anadolu Kavağı — take a ferry from Sarıyer to this
pleasant village across the strait on the Asian coast,
There are some issues to keep in mind, though: crowned by the Yoros Castle on the hilltop, which
offers a view of the wide open Black Sea in the north
• Some parts of pedestrian promenade at the Bospho-
rus side of the street in the upper (northern) sec-
tions of the district, especially between Yeniköy and
Tarabya, and Tarabya and Kireçburnu, are very nar-
row (so narrow as not to let two pedestrians comfort-
ably walk side by side), so watch your steps if you
decide to take a stroll around there.
• While you will see some people (mostly poor chil-

dren, who cannot afford to swim in swimming
pools) swimming in the strait, it is discouraged and is
dangerous due to strong currents and depth. (There
are red colored warning signs in Turkish dotting the
shores of the Bosphorus, warning swimmers that
swimming is dangerous due to strong currents, even
though there is no ban). Nor are there any real
beaches, facilities and designated swimming areas
on the Bosphorus for swimmers as a result. There is
indeed a cape named Akıntıburnu (literally, “cape
of current”) just east of the neighborhood of Ar-
navutköy, in which the current is at its strongest, and
is easily visible even from outside, just like the flow
of a river. Besides, the water is not that clean ei-
ther, however blue it may look. So, if you can't wait
for hitting a Mediterranean beach, better head for
beaches on the Marmara coast, outside Istanbul in-
stead.
• You may want to steer clear of the dimly illuminated

parks on the upper/northern sections of Bosphorus,
especially around Kireçburnu, late at night to avoid
harassment from homeless people likely abusing in-
halants, who are known to stab people for whatever
amount of money they can get, no matter how little.
Dayhours and evenings are perfectly safe, though.
143.11 Go next
Thanks to fairly frequent bus and minibus services from
Sarıyer, some easy day-trips into the pleasant countryside
along the northern edges of city is possible.
• Kilyos — village to north on the Black Sea with long

sandy beaches that are crammed in summer week-
Chapter 144
Istanbul/Galata
Istiklal Street
Galata, and Beyoğlu further north with its main thor-

oughfare, the pedestrianized Istiklal Street, and the ad-
joining Taksim Square is the district of Istanbul north
of Sultanahmet/Old City, across the Golden Horn. This
district, especially Taksim Square is usually considered
the “city center” of Istanbul. Primarily visited for its
nightlife, this district has also its own share of sights and
accommodation.
Monument at Taksim Square
144.1 Understand Galata (Turkish: Karaköy) gained its importance by the

virtue of transforming into a trade colony of the Genoese
and the Venetians, beside then-Byzantine Constantinople.
After Ottomans captured Istanbul, the autonomous sta-
tus of Galata was left untouched, except that its city walls
were razed (except a few disconnected parts in the length
of a few meters spotted by the archaeologists here and
there). The first time Beyoğlu area (Pera in the past),
which lies north of Galata, was settled is during 1850’s,
when Grand Rue de Pera (“the Great Road of Pera”),
today’s Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi), was opened.
Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) is even younger, it has
taken its existing appearance as late as 1930s.
İstiklal Caddesi is Istanbul’s prominent pedestrian street.
At anytime of the day there are thousands strolling the
street and a myriad of restaurants and retail offers in the
Taksim Square side streets. This is also the original diplomatic district
when Istanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire, so
411
412 CHAPTER 144. ISTANBUL/GALATA
search out the various impressive embassy buildings that

are now consulates since the capital moved to Ankara.
The British consulate in Hamalbaşı Caddesi is worth a
look.
Starting its life as a Western/Catholic (Ge-
noese/Venetian) stronghold beside Eastern (Orthodox
Byzantine/Muslim Ottoman) Constantinople, Galata has
always represented ‘West’. This is quite easily visible
from the neo-classical architecture of most of the area,
but there is more than that: First street lighting, first
underground railway (Tünel, also oldest in continental
Europe), as well as first European-style theaters in
Turkey were always applied in this district. The decision
of Ottoman dynasty to abandon Topkapı Palace in old
city for western-style Dolmabahçe Palace near Beyoğlu Tram at Istiklal Street
was a largely symbolic but important act during the
last century of Ottoman Empire, when the westernizing vintage tram) Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi, also vari-
effort had a climax. ously interpreted as “Istiklal Avenue” or “Istiklal Boule-
vard”) is the main thoroughfare of Beyoğlu area. Istiklal
Street technically connects three squares: Taksim in the
144.2 Get in north, the biggest of three, Tünel Square in the south, and
Galatasaray Square in the middle, the smallest one, actu-
• Airport shuttles run by HAVAŞ connect Tak- ally nothing more than a simple widening of the street.
sim Square with Atatürk Airport (~YTL 10/person); Total length of the street is about 2 km, and squares are
also with less significant Sabiha Gökçen Airport sit- located about 1 km away from each other.
uated in Asian Side (also YTL 10/person). The easiest way to get to Istiklal Street from Karaköy on
the shore of Golden Horn is to take Tünel funicular: the
• Because of its very central location in the city life,
second oldest urban underground railway in the world (af-
it’s possible to find a direct bus from everywhere but
ter London’s Underground) which date back to 1875. Al-
the outermost suburbs in the city to Taksim Square.
though the distance travelled is rather short between its
The most useful public bus lines for the travellers
are: sole two stations (a whopping 573 meters, which perhaps
make it also the title winner for being the shortest metro
• 61B Taksim-Beyazıt near Sultanahmet line of the planet), it beats the effort one has to make to
• 96T Taksim-Atatürk Airport climb up the steep slope between the aforementioned lo-
• 110 Taksim-Kadıköy cations. For its lower station, look for the sign Tünel on
the side of a building just over the Galata Bridge on the
• Dolmuşes also take pessengers from Beşiktaş, western side of the street. It costs TL 2.50/person one-
Bakırköy, Kadıköy and Bostancı (both in Asian way and departs every 5 minutes M-Sa 7AM-10:30PM,
Side) to Taksim. Su 7:30AM-10:30PM.
• A metro line connects Taksim Square with districts
located north.
144.4 See
• A modern tram line connects lower parts of this dis-
trict on the shore of Bosphorus (such as Karaköy,
• Galata Convent of Whirling Dervishes (Galata
Tophane, Fındıklı, Kabataş) with the peninsula of
Mevlevihanesi), Galip Dede Caddesi 15, Tünel (on
Old City.
the downhill street just below the lower end of İstik-
• Ferries from Kadıköy across the Bosphorus moor at lal Caddesi; very near Tünel’s upper station—there
Karaköy. is a small brown sign at the corner of Galip Dede
Cd), ☎ +90 212 245-41-41, fax: +90 212 243-50-
• You can pass to Galata/Karaköy side from Eminönü
45, e-mail: galatamevlevihanesi@kultur.gov.tr. Tu-
via Galata Bridge on foot.
Su 9:00-16:30 (last entry 16:00; Oct 1-May 15),
Tu-Su 9:00-19:00 (last entry 18:00; May 15-Oct 1).
A ritual dancing hall of the mystical Mevlevi order
144.3 Get around (who are the followers of the teachings of Mewlānā
Jalāl ad-Dīn, better known as Rumi in the West),
Totally pedestrianized (save for police cars, garbage the quiet and peaceful garden of this place is a wel-
trucks, cars belonging to consulates, and, of course, the come escape from the hustle and bustle of Beyoğlu.
144.4. SEE 413
Karaköy/Galata and the lower end of Istiklal

St), ☎ +90 212 293 81 80, fax: +90 212 245 21
33, e-mail: info@galatatower.net. It was built
by the Genoese on the city walls of Galata, then
a western (Genoese/Venetian) stronghold beside
eastern (Byzantine/Ottoman) Constantinople. Ride
an elevator to the top (20 TL), then walk the parapet
for a 360 degree view of Istanbul, including the
entire Sultanahmet peninsula: crowned by Topkapı
Palace, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. A
beautiful spot worthy of a lot of pictures. Also
houses a restaurant.
• Pera Museum (Pera Müzesi), Meşrutiyet Caddesi

view of the Galata Tower from across the Golden Horn 65, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu (close to Istiklal Avenue), ☎
+90 212 334-99-00, fax: +90 212 245-95-11, e-
mail: info@peramuzesi.org.tr. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00,
The oldest Mevlevi lodge in Istanbul, the convent Su 12:00-18:00. A private museum with a large
was started in 1491, when the surrounding area was, painting collection and archaeological collections of
hard to believe today but, pure wilderness beyond measurement units and tools used in Asia Minor
the city walls of Galata, although the current build- since antiquity and faiences of Kütahya. 7 TL (stu-
ing dates back to 1855, which took its shape after dents 3 TL Th-Tu, free We).
many repairs, rebuildings, and fires. However, the
lodge was shut down in the early years of the repub- • French Institute (Institut français d'Istanbul /
lic (in 1925) along with all other 'reactionary' move- Fransız Kültür Merkezi), İstiklal Caddesi 4 (the
ments in Turkey, and the building has been serving first building on your right after entering İs-
as a museum dedicated to the Mevlevi order since tiklal Cd from Taksim Square), ☎ +90 212
2010. Downstairs is a series of rooms dealing with 393-81-11, fax: +90 212 244-44-95, e-mail:
the daily life of an average dervish, with informa- contact.istanbul@ifturquie.org. They have good art
tional signs in Turkish and English about the history exhibits for free and sometimes have French films in
of Islam and the Mevlevi order (also notice the orig- the cinema.
inal wooden pillars that support the building on this
floor). On the upper floor is a dancing hall, a perfect • Hagia Triada Greek Orthodox Church (Aya Tri-
example of 19th century Ottoman Baroque, where ada Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), Taksim Square (entry
sema dervish ceremonies are held (once or twice ev- from the first side alley to left in Istiklal Avenue).
ery week at nights, an extra 45 TL—buy tickets in Finding a quite large and still operating church on
advance, as space is limited). On the third floor is a the edge of the main square of the largest city of a
display of various traditional Turkish/Islamic arts, predominantly Muslim country may not be expected
including paper marbling (ebru), and calligraphy. by everyone, but this is exactly the definition of the
After exiting the building, check out the small grave- quite elaborate Hagia Triada.
yard (or the “silent house” as the sign at its entrance
says) on one side of the building, shaded by a num-
ber of hackberry trees, which Ottomans favoured to
plant in the yards of mosques and graves to sign ho-
liness. Here, the carved fez, or the basket of flowers
in case of women, perched upon the highly detailed
marble gravestone indicates the occupant’s rank in
the dervish hierarchy. At one corner of the necrop-
olis is the grave of İbrahim Müteferrika, a con-
verted Hungarian who was the first to start auto-
mated publishing in Ottoman Turkish in the 18th
century, and served as the translator of Hungarian
revolutionaries who sought asylum in Turkey, such
as Kossuth, who stayed for a year in Kütahya, or Fer-
enc Rakoczi, who lived his last years in Tekirdağ. 5 View of S. Antonio di Padova Catholic Church.
TL.
• S. Antonio di Padova Catholic Church, Istiklal
• Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) (between Caddesi No: 171 A (A few meters down the street
from Galatasaray Square), ☎ +90 (0)212 244 09 • The bankers’ town of Galata and the Tower: A cos-
35. Although not at the size of Hagia Sophia, this is mopolis and a finance center with bankers and stock
the largest church (still used for religious activities) exchange crowned by the Tower which was built by
in Turkey. It’s directly on Istiklal St, but somewhat the Genoese in the 14th century, offering a great
hidden from view by its yard portal. Masses in Ital- birds-eye view of the old city.
ian, Turkish, and English (in different days of the
week). Free. • Neve Shalom Synagogue: The most beautiful and
the largest in the city where most of the religious
• Cezayir Street (Cezayir Sokağı) (behind ceremonies like bar-mitzvahs, weddings and funer-
Galatasaray Lisesi, walk the downhill street from als are held.
Galatasaray Square). Better known as Fransız
Sokağı or La Rue Française, i.e. “French Street”, is • The Ashkenazi Synagogue: The only active Ashke-
an alley of statues and geraniums hanging from win- nazi Synagogue open to visits and prayers.
dows, featuring France-themed restaurants, cafes,
and pubs housed in renovated and brightly-painted
• Jewish Museum of Turkey: Witness the past 700
neo-classical buildings. Upon its inauguration in its
years how the mixed cultures influenced each other.
present form in 2005, there was a brief debate on
how political correct it is to rename the street from
Cezayir (Algeria) to Fransız, who fought a bitter
war against Algerian independence in 1960s, which 144.6 Buy
led the city council to abandon the idea of officially
renaming the street. • Paristexas Concept Store, located next to the
Galata Square, Sertaç Haznedaroğlu, the fashion-
forward owner, stocks quirky Japanese labels and
• Crimean Memorial Church (Kırım Kilisesi, Christ
rare collections created for an Eastern market by de-
Church), Kumbaracıbaşı Yokuşu (on one of the
signers such as Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Westwood
downhill alleys to your left when walking towards
and Chloé. Also check out custom-made leather
the southern end of Istiklal Avenue in Tünel Square,
bags & shoes by Turkish designer Ahmet Baytar.
look for street sign). A neo-gothic anglican cathedral
Buyukhendek Cad. 4/A Galata, Beyoglu Phone:
which would not be out of place in northwestern Eu-
+90 212 252 6161
rope, Crimean Memorial Church was built for the
protestant community of the city by Britain in late
1800s. It was named in honour of the soldiers died
in Crimean War of 1856, which was fought against 144.7 Eat
Russia by the allied Ottoman and British Empires.
Still open for religious purposes, its congregation to-
day mostly consists of Anglican East Asians and Sri
Lankans residing in Istanbul.
• İstanbul Modern, Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi Li-

man İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No: 4, Karaköy
(on the waterfront; tram: Tophane), ☎ +90 212
334 7300. 10:00-18:00, Th to 20:00, Closed Mo.
A must see for anyone interested in contemporary
Turkish art, this is a nice, organized museum with
contemporary installations. Including a cafe with a
top notch menu and view. 15 TL/8 TL students (free
for Turkish residents on Thursday).
Restaurants under Galata Bridge

144.5 Do
144.5.1 Jewish Heritage 144.7.1 Budget

Since 1492 the prosperity and creativity of the Ottoman • Bereket Döner, İstiklal Cad. 5 (right on Istiklal Av-
Jews rivaled that of the Golden Age of Spain. Today the enue, a few metres down the street on the right from
Jewish community in Turkey is about 26,000 and most of Taksim Square), ☎ +90 212 251-42-21. A quite
them live in Istanbul. good value restaurant featuring döner (also on the
144.7. EAT 415
plate as opposed to the usual wrap/sandwich variety; time while drink your Rakı and eat your delicious
dipped in tomato sauce to the point of swimming) fish. Other Alcohols are also served. 20-50 €.
and traditional Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is
a self-service one, i.e., you take a tray, and order • Şehbender 14 Restaurant & Bar (Şehbender 14
your food by pointing at the entrance, and pay at Restaurant & Bar), Şehbender Sokak No: 14 As-
the cash register right next to the food display (take malı Mescit Beyoğlu Istanbul (Located across of
your tableware and bread at this point as you won't Babylon in Asmalı Mescit), ☎ +90 212 292 73 14,
be served any at the table), and then take your food e-mail: info@sehbender14.com. 01PM-02PM. The
to a table—there are two more floors upstairs. No restaurant is meyhane style, where lively conversa-
alcohol is served. 10-15 TL for a full meal; can be tion is the main dish on every table, next to deli-
substantially cheaper if you forgo salad or appetiz- cious mezes, Raki or wines. Other Alcohols are
ers. also served. Best choise for dinner before Babylon!
Greek and Medditeranean mezes are great also good
• Fermentasyon, Küçükparmakkapı Sok. No:6 at winery 20-50 €.
(near Taksim Square), ☎ +90 212 244 26 37. One of
the nicer cafes in this street and moderately priced. • Ficcin (Fıccın), Kallavi Sokağı 13 (side street off
Sitting at one of the tables at the street is a good Istiklal Avenue, opposite the S. Antonio di Padova
option, getting one of the tables on the 1st floor at Catholic Church—there is a branch of Starbucks
the window and overlooking the street is even bet- and a jewellery seller on the corner), ☎ +90
ter. Staff is friendly and hospitable. Enjoy a good 212 293-37-86, fax: +90 212 252-19-30, e-mail:
breakfast here with the typical Turkish Menemen fccn@ficcin.com. 7:00-midnight daily. The restau-
(omelette with cheese and tomatoes). rant offers an exceptional value lunch, but is also
pleasantly busy at night. Several of the staff speak
• A series of stalls right at the corner of Taksim English and foreign tourists are welcome alongside
Square and Istiklal Avenue are renowned for their the many locals who eat there regularly. Fıccın is
unique heavily spicy burgers, much smaller than unusual in being a Circassian restaurant, which also
the American variety. While Kızılkayalar Burger serves Turkish food. Seats are available on the street
is the locals’ favourite, as it’s the oldest one and and in several rooms inside. Alcohol is also served.
known as the “inventor” of the spicy burgers, all Around 20TL per person without wine.
stalls, which are open 24-hr and serve both as a
sit-in and take-out, offer basically the same stuff— • Nevizade Street (behind Istiklal boulevard, you can
döner, french fries, toasts, various cold and hot find it by entering Çiçek Pasajı). one of the most
snacks, freshly squeezed juices, as well as canned famous streets in Istiklal boulevard. It’s narrow, and
soft drinks, and ayran. Spicy burgers make for a is mostly known for its meyhane style restaurants,
great snack after a night-long binge drinking, but where lively conversation is the main dish on every
keep in mind that garlic smell afterwards can be table, next to fish and Rakı that is.
overpowering.
• Haci Abdullah, Ağa Camii, Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi
• On the Balıkpazarı Alley (literally “Fish Market”, (Eski Sakizagaci Caddesi) No: 9/A, ☎ +90 212 293-
next to Çiçek Pasajı and opposite Galatasaray Lis- 85-61 / 293-08-51, fax: +90 212 244-32-97. One
esi, on about the midpoint of Istiklal Avenue), there of the best Ottoman restaurants in the country. You
is a number of small eateries side by side, offering can find very traditional foods there. No alcohol.
delicious fried mussels (midye tava, 3.50 TL per
• Leb-i Derya. A nice cafe-restaurant with a splendid
sandwich) with a yogurt sauce, best to be washed
view of the Bosphorus and the Topkapi Palace in
down by a pint of beer.
Tunel, Beyoglu.
• The House Café, fax: +90 212 249-79-91. Istiklal
144.7.2 Mid-range Caddesi Mısır Apt. No:163 Beyoğlu, +90 212 251-
79-91 ). They serve giant salads, main dishes and
• Degustasyon Restaurant (Degustasyon Restau- pizzas pleasing even to the gourmets. The menu is
rant), Balık Pazarı Beyoğlu Taksim (Located be- seasonal which allows them to use only the freshest
hind Istiklal boulevard, you can find it by entering ingredients.
Çiçek Pasajı. On the fish market street.), ☎ +90
212 292 06 67, fax: +90 212 244 57 44, e-mail: • Zencefil, Kurabiye Sokak 8 (on a side street of Istik-
info@degustasyon.com. 10AM-02PM. The restau- lal Avenue), ☎ +90 212 243 8234, fax: +90 212 243
rant is meyhane style, where lively conversation is 8233. M-Sa 10AM-00:30AM. A vegetarian cafe
the main dish on every table, next to fish and Rakı. serving healthy and home-style dishes in Beyoglu.
With live Turkish music (fasıl) you will enjoy your Also has a backyard. Credit cards are accepted..
144.7.3 Splurge • Riddim, near Taksim square, +90 0212 251 27 23.
A complex with three floor. Rıddim live is the per-
• 360 Istanbul, Istiklal Cad. 311, Mısır Apart- formance hall of complex and you can listen rock
manı, floor 8 (on Istiklal Avenue, next to S. Anto- pop and alternative kinds of music. Riddim Spe-
nio Church), ☎ +90 212 251 10 42, fax: +90 212 cial is the conceptual parties floor. İstanbul’s best
251 10 48, e-mail: 360istanbul@360istanbul.com. R&B-HipHop club is Rıddım R&B-HipHop (the
This gem is in the Beyoglu district on a 360 degrees 3rd floor).
rooftop, has awesome views of the city. Has a DJ
and more party atmosphere late at night and quiet • Atlas Axis. Great for listening to jazz, ethnic
dinners before. jazz, funk, trip hop or world music while enjoy-
ing your food or drink; you should visit that ter-
• NuTeras, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 67, ☎ +90 212 245 race social club on Beyoglu. Offers an amazing
60 70. 18:00-01:00 (04:00). For a breath-taking view of Istanbul through Galata Tower, Sultan Ah-
view of the city and a phenomenal mean, go to met and Marmara Sea and lets you enjoy the quality
NuTeras, the restaurant located on top of a 17 story of the food/drink together with live performances
hotel near the Galata tower. Prices are rather steep, and Bosphorus scenery with low prices.
but certainly worth it, especially for special occa-
sions. Credit cards are accepted. • Sal, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 18, +90 212 243
4196. Very popular with tourists seeking a true
Turkish experience. Here low coffee tables bump
your knees while you sip raki and watch some rowdy
144.8 Drink musicians.
The liveliest part of the city is definitely Beyoglu and

again the area of Istiklal Caddesi. Many clubs offer live • Mektup, Imam Adnan Sokal 20. Authentic live mu-
music. Be aware that July/August 2011 has seen police sic. But, there is restaurant, too. Do expect to pay
crackdowns on outdoor seating in this area: the officers a cover charge (approximately 15 lira) if there is a
have tended to be unilingual so if you're seated outside band playing.
and officers tell you to stand, just follow their instruc-
tions and let them throw the tables into awaiting trucks. • Haymatlos Bar, İstiklal Caddesi Rumeli Han 48 C
In most cases you are allowed to finish your drink and in Blok (Go through the gate at the right of the mosque
some cases even continue to drink and stand. on Istiklal. At the end of the passage, you will find
Haymatlos Bar upstairs on second floor). Live music
at the weekend. Rock, folk, etc.
• Indigo, Akarsu Sokak 309, Galatasaray, ☎ +90 212
2451307. Fr-Sa 23:00-04:00. Live music through-
out the week. • DoRock, İmam Adnan Sokak 10, Beyoğlu (on the
right near the lower end of one of the streets to right
• Balans & Balans Tonique. Istiklal cad. Balo sok. close to Taksim Square). Open till late at night, like
22 Beyoğlu. Live music in Balans, Experimental live 3AM. One of the few still operating bars in the city
music and electronic music in Blans Tonique. playing loud heavy metal music, which used to be far
• Babylon, Şehbender Sokağı 3, ☎ +90 212 2927368. plentier in 90s and early 2000s. And unlike the rest
Jazz and world music. of them, this one also heavily features more extreme
genres such as death and black metal, with live per-
• Mojo, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 25, +90 212 formances on Saturday and Sunday nights. DoRock
2432927. 9PM-4AM. Rock music. is easily recognizable by its frequenters with their
black clothes and miles of hair sitting in the sidewalk
• Dulcinea, Meselik Sokak 20. Mon-Sa 3PM till late. patio in front of the bar. Also one of the cheapest
Popular bar, café, restaurant and art gallery during places to have a drink (if you can stand to loud mu-
the week, but on Friday and Saturday it’s club night sic, that is). About 4 TL for a pint (0.5 lt) of beer.
with trance and techno music.
• Jazz Café, Hasnun Galip Sokak 20. For some • Bronx Pi Sahne, Terkoz Cikmazi No: 8/1 Beyo-
fine jazz, on the top level of the two-floored club glu, ☎ +90 530 605 5094. Live performance stage.
there’s a performance space where you can enjoy Alternative/Indie Rock. Cocktail experts.
live funk/acid jazz/ blues Tuesday through Thurs-
day.
• Araf, Balo Sokak 5, ☎ +90 212 244-83-01. Good
• Biz Jazz Bar, Topcu Caddesi 18, Talimhane Tak- Turkish music with no cover charge and reasonably
sim. 14PM-4AM. Cozy bar with live music every priced drinks. Nice view towards the North. Selim
night. Sesler plays every Tuesday.
144.9. SLEEP 417
144.8.1 Cafés Street, center of Istanbul night life. Hostel is clean and
cozy, staff is fluent in English, Turkish and Serbo-croato-
• Melekler Kahvesi Ayhan Işık Sk No:36 Taksim, bosnian, very friendly and helpful. Price for the bed
212 251 31 01. Melekler Kahvesi which is a back- in dormitory is €15, double bed private room is €60.
street cafe is in Taksim. It is a very popular place Breakfast is not included, but there is a kitchen that guests
among young people. You can play games such as can use, as their own, with free tea and coffee.
Scrabble and drink Turkish coffee (6 TL). After
drinking Turkish coffee, fortunetellers will look at • BonApart - Taksim 1&2, İstiklal Cad. Kum-
the coffee grounds and tell your future for free. baracıyokuşu Sok. No: 64 Dilek Apt. Daire:2 Kat:
2 Beyoğlu – İstanbul, ☎ 00905352134081. The
Small streets south of Taksim Square offer a variety of apartment is located on European side of Istanbul
cafes with more than reasonable prices. Tea can cost TL1 nestled in the popular district of Taksim. Com-
or TL1.50 instead of TL5 or TL6 in more touristy ar- monly regarded as the epicenter of Istanbul, Tak-
eas. A more authentic feel with locals spending their time sim is the place with everything. With all the major
there and also playing boardgames. transport links (Buses, Metro and many Taxis) avail-
able, getting around will be the least of your worries.
144.8.2 Hooka
• Chillout Cengo Hostel, Hüseyin Ağa Mah.Atıf
In Tophane near the waterfront are a number of well- Yılmaz Cad.Halas Sok. No 3, ☎ 00 90 212 251
known hooka/hubble bubble (nargile) cafes all clustered 31 48. Fun hostel located close to Taksim Square.
together, though the recent national ban on smoking to- Hostel staff speak good English and they are very
bacco products indoors in public places in place since helpful. Prıvate rooms as well as dorms are avail-
summer 2009 led these cafes not to serve traditional able. Dorm rooms start around 20 Turkish Lira a
hooka unless you are sitting on their outdoor patios. In re- night and double private rooms for 70 Lira. Inside
action to the ban, they have “invented” some other kind has been newly repainted and is very artistic. There
of hooka which does not contain tobacco and touted as are several common rooms to relax.
bitkisel (“herbal”), thus staying within the borders of le-
gality for smoking inside, though those passionately in • Chillout Classic Hostel. Located along Istiklal
love with traditional hooka usually find it unpleasant. Cad. and Balyoz Sk. The positive side is that the
staff speak good English, free breakfast (coffee/tea,
buns) is included, free internet access (one desktop
+ wireless access). On the negative side, at least
144.9 Sleep our room was very bare and unfinished (perhaps 130
cm x 3 m) with bunk beds. It was quite possible to
• Route 39 House, Mebusan Yokusu 39 (Taksim), e- get a good night’s sleep in there. Dorms and private
mail: route39house@gmail.com. Check-in: 13.00, rooms available, common toilet/shower. Room for
check-out: 11.00. Im the heart of the modern city two about 30 € / night total..
Taksim and close to all transportation with wi-fi ac-
cess and free breakfast offers friendly and relaxing
• Hostel World House, Galipdede Caddesi No:85
atmosphere to international travellers. 7-17.
(Two minutes walk from the restaurants and bars of
Istiklal Street in Taksim.), ☎ +90 212 293 55 20,
144.9.1 Budget e-mail: info@worldhouseistanbul.com. Nice and
friendly new hostel, popular with long-term trav-
• Arch-ist Hostel, Siraselviler cad. no:40 Ci- ellers. Free internet. €10/12/14 for 8/6/4 bed dorm
hangir, Beyoglu, ☎ +90 212 245-86-90, e-mail: rooms, private rooms for €35-40 in high season..
info@archisthostel.com. Check-in: 24h, check-out:
12pm. The design hostel in a walking distance to • i-House, Istiklal Caddesi Zambak Sokak
Taksim Square and in the hip neighbourhood called No:5, Beyoğlu, ☎ +90 212 244 37 73, e-mail:
Cihangir. All rooms have air-conditioning, bath- info@ihouseistanbul.com. Recently renovated,
room and wc inside. Also you can enjoy the com- very clean, and located only 3min from Taksim
mon roof terrace and the full equipped kitchen. Square. Staff speak good English and is friendly
Dorms 12€ / Private 22 €. and helpful. There is a common room and a roof
terrace. It’s owned and managed by the same guys
• Planet Paprika hostel, Taksim, Taksim akarcası as the Hostel World House. Dorm beds €8.50,
sokağı 3. en-suite double rooms €39.
Located near Taksim square and Taksim metro and air- • Neverland, Bogazkesen cad. No:96, Be-
port shuttle station, just a few steps away from Istiklal yoğlu, ☎ +90 212 243 31 77, e-mail:
hostelneverland@gmail.com. Basic hotel that • Taksim Apart, e-mail: taksimapart@gmail.com.

has internet, kitchen, common rooms, breakfast Prof. Celal Oker Sok. No: 7, Harbiye, +90 505
and tea; Pets are welcome; Organised by a very 283 5855. It´s a very comfortable and nice apart-
friendly collective. Dorm beds(8/4) €9/12€, ment hotel in Beyoglu’s city centre. We stayed in
double (ensuite) €14 (€17), single €20. two different rooms (because we made a round trip
through turkey and came back) and both were very
• Rapunzel Guesthouse & Café, Bereketzade clean and tastefully decorated. The building is in the
Camii Sokağı No:3, ☎ +90 212 292-50-34, e-mail: heart of Istanbul, very close to Taksim and Beyoglu
info@rapunzelistanbul.com. Brand new hostel lo- Bar destrict. By bus it is 10 minutes to Sultanahmet
cated right next to Galata Tower. Hostel staff speak and 15 minutes to the old city. Prices from €15 to
good English and they are very helpful. Great mu- €70 per person per night.
sic, valuable suggestions, wi-fi access and refreshing
breakfast is for free. Twin bed rooms are 25 €/per- • Thomas-ay Group, Siraselviler Avenue, Bakrac
son. Dorms are 16/18€ (6 bed/4bed) per person. Street, No:22/1, Cihangir-Beyoglu / ISTANBUL,
☎ +905389204960. Serviced holiday apartments
• Stray Cat Hostel, Mebusan Yks No: 35, CIhangir, in Istanbul. Multiple apartments options for big
Beyoglu (Between the famous Taksim sqr and the groups. Combination of hotels and homes. Daily
Bosphorus Sea), ☎ 0090 212 29 39 103. Check- cleaning, airport transfers and everything that you
out: around 11. Stray Cat Hostel has 3 kittens, and may need.
an artistic vibe, very helpful and friendly staff. Pri-
vate or dormitory style rooms with clean bathrooms.
Dorms €7, privates €18. 144.9.3 Splurge
• Sumo Cat Hostel, Lüleci Hendek Cad. Ali • Ceylan Intercontinental, Asker Ocagi Cadessi No
Hoca Ar 9, Galata, ☎ +90 212 292-78-66, e-mail: 1, Taksim, ☎ +90 212 368 44 44. Check-in: 14:00,
info@sumocathostel.com. Check-in: 24h, check- check-out: 12:00. The Ceylan Intercontinental Ho-
out: 11pm. The colorful boutique hostel, sur- tel brags 5-star ambiance with the best address in the
rounded by the fashion shops, hip residences, mu- city. I can attest that the bar is very stunning in the
sic workshops and art galleries of Galata. Private evening (with stunning views of the Ayasofia and the
rooms & Dorms available. Very friendly atmo- Blue Mosque in the distance). The three restaurants
sphere. Dorms 8€ / Private 20 €. are mediocre. €200.
• Grand Hyatt Istanbul, Taskisla Caddesi, Taksim,

144.9.2 Mid range
☎ +90 212 368 1234, fax: +90 212 368 1000, e-
• Midtown Hotel Taksim, Lamartin Cad. No. 13, mail: burcu.cakir@hyattintl.com. Formerly Hyatt
34437 Taksim (Just Located in Taksim Square), ☎ Regency, the hotel is near Taksim Square and has
+90 212 361 6767, fax: +90 212 361 6768. Mid- 360 rooms and suites overlooking the city and the
town Hotel Istanbul, designed as an exceptional Bosphorus. Hotel has formal dining, outdoor pool,
business hotel with a modern and innovative under- Turkish bath, fitness center and business center.
standing of service, is on the Lamartin Street, in the
Talimhane area of Taksim / Istanbul.in. 110. • Misafir Suites, Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sok. No: 1
Beyoglu, ☎ +90 212 249 89 30. Great small seven
• Pera Rose Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi No 201, suites boutique hotel with huge modern/chic rooms
Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Nice little hotel about a ten in a very central location. Friendly owner who will
minute walk from Taksim square, close to the recommend good restaurants or the coolest bar at
British consulate-general. Good value for money. the moment. €200.
Single room $80-100..
• Taksim Apartments - Vacation Rental, e-mail: • Pera Palace (Pera Palas), Meşrutiyet Cad-
reservations@taksimapartments.com. Topçu Cad., desi 52, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu, ☎ +90 212 377-
Asri Apt. No:8 Taksim, +90 532 271 3843. Lo- 40-00, fax: +90 212 377-40-77, e-mail:
cated in the heart of the city, this vacation rental reservations@perapalace.com. The grand old
provides you with home comforts while enjoying the hotel of Istanbul opened in 1892 to welcome
high service standards of a hotel. Apartment come the courteous passengers of the legendary Orient
with air-conditioner, TV, minibar and wireless con- Express connecting Paris with Istanbul, Pera Palace
nection. This apartment can be used as a home of- situated on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn
fice during business trips to Istanbul. Daily rentals hosted kings, kaisers, emperors, czars, and shahs in
start around €150 and can get much lower for long a literal sense throughout in its history. However,
term stays. most renowned guest to the date is perhaps Agatha
144.11. CONNECT 419
Christie, who wrote Murder on the Orient Express 144.11 Connect

in room 411. It was renovated in 2006 with its
tastefully decorated rooms. From €230, going all There are some internet cafes on the side alleys of Istik-
the way to €600 according to the room and view. lal Avenue, especially on the ones nearer Taksim Square.
Look for the signs when passing by, especially for those
• Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts: The Bosphorus, hanging from the second or third floors of the buildings.
Bayıldım Caddesi No: 2 Maçka; Beşiktaş 34357, ☎ Most cost around 1.50 TL/hour.
+90 212 326 8181, e-mail: istanbul@swissotel.com.
Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A 5-star hotel
near Taksim Square with four restaurants and two
bars. €150.
• The Marmara Istanbul, Taksim Meydani Taksim

Istanbul 34437 (Taksim metro station is right across
the street.), ☎ 90 212 251 46 96, e-mail: Istanbul-
info@themarmarahotels.com. 4 star hotel that of-
fers chic, contemporary design and modern facili-
ties, Marmara is something of an institution in Is-
tanbul. Hotel contains the Tepe Lounge, which is
intimate and relaxing, as well as a spa onsite, which
looks clean and professional.
• Witt Istanbul Suites, Defterdar Yokusu No. 26,

34433 Cihangir, ☎ +90 212 393 7900. Ultra-
modern boutique hotel with 17 designer suites. All
include a kitchenette, minibar, flat screen TV, iPod
dock, and free wireless internet. A Turkish break-
fast buffet is served each morning. 129-329€.
• Tomtom Suites, Bogazkesen Caddesi. Tomtom

Kaptan Sokak
No.18 Beyoglu, ☎ +90 212 292 4949. An exceptional

boutique hotel converted into high-ceilinged luxury suites
from the old 1850s home of the Soeurs Gardes Malades.
In a pretty, peaceful square between the Italian ambas-
sador’s Palazzo Venezia and the Palais de France, in a
quarter of Beyoğlu named after a captain in the Ottoman
navy ( Tomtom Kaptan )
144.10 Stay safe

Generally, it is safe to walk around in this district, even by
night, though crossing the Tarlabaşı Boulevard (Tarlabaşı
Bulvarı) towards the dilapidated quarter of Tarlabaşı to
the west of Beyoğlu/Istiklal Avenue wouldn't certainly be
wise after the night falls. Some other parts of this district
also have some crime issues. A rule of thumb to follow
would be to look for young people around having fun,
which suggests that you are more likely in an OK zone.
Taksim Square and Istiklal Street there are always (7/24)
police officers and security cameras. Do not be afraid.
This is a safe area.
This part of the city is where much of the bar scams take
place. These scams are explained in dedicated section of
main Istanbul article in detail.
Chapter 145
Istanbul/Golden Horn
Golden Horn (Turkish: Haliç) is both the name of the In 1700s, mansions and large gardens full of tulips along
estuary of the Bosphorus towards west in Istanbul, and the Horn, then called Sadabad, were favourite retreats of
also of the district on banks of it. Ottoman state elite, who conducted costly parties there-
abouts, which were later accused of economic destruction
This article concentrates on the areas around Golden
Horn banks west of city walls. For southeastern banks, and the eventual dissolution of Ottoman Empire. Those
years were called either Lale Devri (“Tulip Era”) or Sefa-
see Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old City. For northeastern
banks, see Istanbul/Galata. hat Devri (“Debauch Era”) by different classes of society.
Very little is left from that period physically. Then, about
a century later, in 1800s, the banks of Golden Horn was
where the industrial revolution first started in Ottoman
145.1 Understand Empire and up to 1980s, Golden Horn continued to be
one of the industrial powerhouses of the Turkish econ-
omy, however this situation had its heavy toll on what was
once “golden” Horn: the industrial effluents in addition
to the untreated wastewater from rapidly expanding city’s
sewers caused the Horn stinking to high heaven, as much
as that people were actually trying to avoid the avenues
along its banks even if those routes meant a shortcut to
where they are heading. Then in late 1980s, the first at-
tempts to bring the Horn to its former glory began. To-
day its water is much cleaner (although not clean enough
for a swim and there is still some way to go), and pleas-
ant parks on the lots of demolished factories surround its
banks. Neighbourhoods on its banks, Eyüp in special,
put a special emphasis on celebrating the Ottoman roots
Golden Horn as seen from Pierre Loti Cafe of the area.
The English name of the bay comes from its Greek

counterpart, Hrison Keras (Χρυσόν Κέρας), which lit- 145.2 Get in
erally translates “Golden Horn”. The “horn” part per-
haps comes from the deep curve the bay has towards its • Buses depart from Eminönü for Eyüp on the south-
end in the northwest. The “golden” part is more obscure, ern shore of the Horn, and also for neighborhoods
but possibly it’s a poetic referral to the reflections on the on the northern shore.
Horn’s water during beautiful sunsets.
• Ferries from Üsküdar (Asian coast), which also call
at Eminönü and Karaköy, zigzag between neighbor-
145.1.1 History hood quays located on both shores of the Horn.
Golden Horn, an estuary formed by flooding of valleys
of two rivers confluenting just northwest of Eyüp by
Bosphorus in prehistorical times, had always been Istan- 145.3 Get around
bul’s primary harbour. In fact, it can be argued that Is-
tanbul would never have existed in such a grand way if it Pedestrianized Old Galata Bridge (Eski Galata
weren't for this superb harbour (and also the superb trad- Köprüsü), built in 1912, and once connecting Eminönü
ing route through and across Bosphorus, by the way). with Karaköy, is replaced with the current bridge in its
420
145.4. SEE 421
former place after it suffered from a big fire in 1992 • Feshane, Eski Feshane Caddesi, Eyüp (on the wa-
in the stores on its lower level, and towed to its present terfront, just east of downtown Eyüp; get off the
upper location on Golden Horn, between Feshane bus at 'Defterdar' stop), ☎ +90 212 501-73-26, fax:
Cultural Centre (Feshane Kültür Merkezi) at the eastern +90 212 501-73-28. Originally a factory produc-
entrance of Eyüp on the southern bank of the Horn and ing fezzes (fes), Ottoman red hats made of felt,
Sütlüce on the northern bank of the Horn, providing adopted in Ottoman Empire in early 1800s as a part
an easy link for pedestrians between sides of the Horn. of westernizing efforts in lieu of much more tradi-
However, the middle section of the bridge is sometimes tional turbans. However, as an irony of fate, fez it-
towed away to provide water circulation along the Horn, self was scrapped away in favour of outright west-
so it entirely depends on your luck whether you'll be able ern garments during Atatürk’s reforms of 1920s and
to cross the Horn on foot on any given day. '30s as it was thought to symbolize the old, decid-
Small ferries zigzaging between neighbourhood quays on edly oriental regime. Today, Feshane serves as a
cultural and exhibition centre, which hosts celebra-
each side of the Horn are also another way of crossing to
the other side of the Horn. tions on local days, and some temporary art exhi-
bitions. During Ramadan, it becomes some sort
There is also a chairlift line between downtown Eyüp and of playground showcasing how Ramadan was cel-
Pierre Loti on a hill overlooking the Horn, see below ebrated during Ottoman era, with traditional sweets
(“Drink” section) for more details. and all.
• Miniaturk. At Sütlüce (on northern shore of the

145.4 See Horn). M-F 9AM-7PM and S-Su 9M-9PM. It was
built in 2001 and is the first miniature park in Istan-
• Eyüp Mosque Complex (Eyüp Camii), Eyüp. This bul (the world’s largest miniature park in respect to
is the main attraction around this part of the city. its model area). The park hosts icons of many cul-
The holiest Islamic shrine in the city, the complex tures and civilizations. Models vary from the Hagia
includes, right next to the mosque, the tomb of Abu Sophia to Galata Tower, from Safranbolu Houses to
Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Ensari Türbesi), the stan- the Sumela Monastery in Trabzon, from Qubbat As-
dard bearer of Prophet Mohammad, died and buried Sakhrah to the ruins of Mount Nemrut. In addition,
here during the first Muslim siege of Constantinople some works that have not survived into the present,
(674-678 AD). It was him the neighbourhood was such as the Temple of Artemis, the Halicarnassus
named after. Muslims flock—in so huge numbers Mausoleum and Ajyad Castle, were recreated. All
that sometimes you have to queue for a few minutes former Ottoman Empire in one place. 5 FL, 10 TL
before entering the tomb—here also to see a rather for foreigners.
uninteresting plaque made of plastic, which is pur-
ported to be Mohammad’s footprint. The interior of • Rahmi M. Koç Industrial Museum (Sanayi
the tomb, covered with fine tiles/faience, is nonethe- Müzesi), Hasköy Caddesi 27, Hasköy (on the north-
less well worth a look, however. It is also interest- ern shore of the Horn), ☎ +90 212 256 71 53-54.
ing to see the devout Muslims leaving the place by Tu-Su 10:00-18:00 (Apr-Sep: 10:00-20:00). This
walking backwards through its exit hallway, as not is a typical industry museum which showcases evo-
to turn their backs to al-Ansari’s catafalque, though lution of machines. Many transport related items in-
obviously no one expects everyone to quit the place cluding a submarine, classic cars, railway carriages,
in the same manner. Free. an out-of-service Bosphorus ferry and a Douglas
DC-3 aircraft (possible to go inside) is, among oth-
• Around the mosque complex is cemeteries and ers, in the display. Also houses a typical Istanbul
tombs all of which date back to Ottoman pe- streetscape with its shops and all as how it would
riod, with their distinctively decorated marble head- look like in the past. 12.5 TL.
stones. Besides, there are a number of other
mosques, streets, and stores surrounding the Eyüp • Santral İstanbul, Silahtar Mah., Kazım Karabekir
Complex, all pleasantly preserved, and give the vis- Cad. 1, Eyüp (at the upper end of the Horn, conflu-
itors an idea of how Ottoman Istanbul should be ence of two creeks; free shuttles every half an hour
looking like. Here is where all of those “boys-to-be- 8:30AM-9PM daily from Atatürk Cultural Centre in
circumsized photos” are taken, as it’s a tradition to Taksim Square is available in addition to a wide ar-
take the boys in their special Ottoman prince clothes ray of public buses which call at the nearby 'Silahtar'
to this particular mosque before the event. In the stop), ☎ +90 212 311 78 09. Tu-Su 10AM-8PM. A
adjoining streets, you can find shops offering inter- contemporary art museum located in a building con-
esting Ottoman-style stuff like wooden toys or tradi- verted from an old power plant (first such plant in
tional salty cookies shaped like a ring (halka) which Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire). Part of the plant
you cannot easily find elsewhere. was kept in almost exact original condition and now
422 CHAPTER 145. ISTANBUL/GOLDEN HORN
serves as the “Energy Museum”. 7 TL (students 3 Boutique hotel housed in 7 separate buildings in the
TL, under 12 and over 65 years of age free). same yard. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-
con, satellite TV, and wireless internet access. €
90/110/140 for single/double/triple rooms. About
145.5 Do 20% cheaper Nov-Mar.
• Walk the town of Balat. Balat housed the first Jews

who settled in Istanbul after the Spanish expulsion. 145.10 Connect
Today, it’s a middle-class neighborhood and as you
walk you can see the oldest Jewish houses with the
Star of David. 145.11 Go next
A trip to Eyüp can easily be combined with some more
145.6 Buy sightseeing in areas of old city of Istanbul that are close
to the banks of Golden Horn, such as the former Greek
neighbourhood of Fener/Phanar, which houses Patriar-
145.7 Eat chate of Constantinople and Bulgarian church of St.
Stephen, one of few prefabricated cast iron churches in
• Akmanoğlu Fırını (near Eyüp Mosque), ☎ +90 212 the world.
581 06 39. This is the bakery where halkas men-
tioned in see section, as well as a number of other
traditional cookies, both sweet and salty alike, are
produced and sold.
• Lale Lokantasi, Feshane Caddesi, Eyüp (inside Fe-

shane Kültür Merkezi - cultural centre), ☎ +90 212
501 73 72. Traditional Turkish/Ottoman cuisine.
• Restaurants around this neighborhood.
145.8 Drink
145.8.1 Cafés
• Pierre Loti is an open air café on a hill overlooking
Golden Horn in Eyüp. It’s rumored that a famous
French writer used to love to visit this café during
his residence in Istanbul. There is a cable (enclosed
chairlift) line (which lasts about 3 minutes; departs
every 5 min between 8AM-midnight), which offers
some nice views, between the shore of Golden Horn
and the hill on which café is situated. It’s also pos-
sible to walk uphill or to take a taxi.
145.9 Sleep
Golden Horn is not very assertive when it comes to ac-
commodation options and is mainly visited as a day trip
from nearby districts, Galata and especially Old City.
However, if it attracted your attention much as to arouse
a desire to overnight there, you have an option or two.
• Turquhouse Boutique Hotel, Merkez Mah. İdris

Köşkü Caddesi, Eyüp (1 km to downtown Eyüp),
☎ +90 212 497 13 13, fax: +90 212 497 16 16.
Chapter 146
Istanbul/New City
This district of Istanbul contains neighborhoods like El- 146.2 Get around
madağ, Nişantaşı, Kurtuluş, and Şişli, which were first
settled during the last years of the Ottoman Empire or The main thoroughfare of this district is Cumhuriyet
early years of Turkish Republic, all situated north of Caddesi (Avenue) between Taksim Square and
Taksim Square, and the main business district between Mecidiyeköy in the north, passing through or near Nişan-
Mecidiyeköy and Levent–Maslak in the north. Most taşı and Şişli; and its extension Büyükdere Caddesi,
of Istanbul’s steel-and-glass skyscrapers—some of the which lies towards east and then north, passing through
tallest in Turkey, including Sapphire which has a height Levent and Maslak and eventually reaching Sarıyer on
of 238 meters (261 mt including its antenna), currently the Bosphorus bank in north. Between Taksim and
the tallest building in Turkey (and also in all the lands Levent, a metro/subway line, which is finally extended
between Frankfurt and Dubai), are located in Levent- to Maslak a few km north of Levent, lies under these
Maslak area. streets.
146.1 Get in 146.3 See

• Atatürk Museum (Atatürk Müzesi), Halaskargazi
Caddesi 250, Şişli (on the main avenue of Şişli),
☎ +90 212 240-63-19. Mo-We Fr-Sa 9:00-16:00.
The historical 3-storey house, easily recognizable
among concrete apartment buildings with its pink
exterior, which the founder of Turkish Republic,
Kemal Atatürk rented while staying in Istanbul be-
fore setting sail to Samsun on Black Sea coast to start
the Turkish War of Independence. Hosts Atatürk-
related paraphernalia and photos. Free.
Skyline of Levent, the main business district of the city, as seen

• Military Museum (Askeri Müze), Cumhuriyet
from Asian Side across the Bosphorus
Caddesi, Harbiye, ☎ +90 212 233-27-20, fax: +90
212 296-86-18. We-Su 9:00-17:00. Among the
• The fastest and most common way to reach this dis- exhibition of this museum are five thousand pieces
trict is to take the metro from Taksim. There are from the Ottoman era through the WWII, with the
metro station at every couple kilometres all along most prominent piece possibly being the huge chain
this part of the city. that the Byzantines stretched across the mouth of
the Golden Horn to keep out the Sultan’s navy in
• Buses from many places in the city has their termi- 1453 during the siege of Constantinople. In the
nus at Mecidiyeköy. Metrobüs, a bus rapid transit yard of the museum, the Janissary Band (Mehter
system plying along its right of way between western Takımı), world’s oldest military band gives concerts
suburbs and Asian Side also passes through the dis- of march music in traditional uniforms each after-
trict, calling at Mecidiyeköy and Zincirlikuyu sta- noon, at 3PM.
tions (both of which are fairly close to the namesake
metro stations).
• Nişantaşı. Nişantaşı is a neighbourhood east
• Dolmuşes from Beşiktaş to Nişantaşı are also avail- of Şişli/northwest of Maçka Park known for its
able. Art Nouveau apartment buildings, ground floors of
423
424 CHAPTER 146. ISTANBUL/NEW CITY
many of which are occupied by upmarket restau- 146.5 Buy

rants, cafes, pubs, and garment stores lining the side-
walks. Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk, well-known This part of the city is characterized by having a modern
Turkish novelist, is a lifelong resident of the neigh- shopping mall every few kilometers along the metro line.
bourhood which formed the background of several Here is a list of them:
of his novels.
• City’s Nişantaşı, about a 10 minute walk
• Radio Building (Radyoevi), Cumhuriyet Caddesi, (250m)from Osmanbey Metro statıon.
Harbiye (close to Military Museum). This building
dating back to 1945 houses the local radio branch • Cevahir. The newest one of malls in Istanbul. At
of state radio and television corporation of Turkey Şişli. Metro: Şişli-Mecidiyeköy. Also accessible
(TRT). Not an architectural pearl for sure (although from Mecidiyeköy Metrobus Station.
fans of 1940s’ totalitarian architecture may find a • Profilo. Located a bit away from main street
thing or two on its stately exterior), its importance (about 10 min walk) at Mecidiyeköy. Metro: Şişli-
lies on the part it played in the political history of Mecidiyeköy. Also accessible from Mecidiyeköy
Turkey: It was occupied three times by the Army, Metrobus Station.
in 1960, 1971, and most recently in 1980, when the
local radio was decidedly the broadcast type ranging • Akmerkez. At Etiler. Nearest metro station is
most wide and far, to announce that they had taken Gayrettepe/Zincirlikuyu, the actual location of the
over the governance of the country (i.e., they have mall is about 25-min walk or 10-min taxi ride away
launched a coup d'etat). from that station.
• Metrocity. Levent metro station has a direct exit to
146.3.1 Architecture the mall.
• Kanyon, one of the most exclusive shopping malls
in istanbul with sophisticated, modernistic architec-
ture, has a conncection to Levent subway station and
to Metrocity by an underground passage.
• Istinye Park, extremely expensive and upscale mall
about 400m from Ayazağa metro station in Maslak.
Skyline of Maslak
Additıonally, Nişantaşı, downhill from Osmanbey metro
station, is quite literally full of upscale boutique shopping
• When you are bored of Roman/Byzantine/Ottoman options (e.g.: Gucci, Prada, Armani).
architecture whatsoever, this district—especially
the northern sections around Levent and Maslak—is
where you want to be to run an eye over steel-and- 146.6 Eat
glass skyscrapers of Istanbul. However, south-
ern sections around Harbiye, Elmadağ, Osmanbey, 146.6.1 Budget
Nişantaşı, Kurtuluş, and Şişli has large numbers of
neo-classical and Art Nouveau buildings which
146.6.2 Mid-range
date back to the turn of 20th century, making a nice
contrast to northern section of New Istanbul. • Sultana’s Dinner and 1001 Nights Show. In El-
madag, near Taksim, has traditional Turkish cuisine
(meze, kebabs, desserts) with a show every evening
146.4 Do of belly dancing, Turkish folklore and live music.
• Attend the Tataula Carnival A.K.A. Baklaho- • Set Kebap at Nispetiye Cad. No:13 in Levent. Has
rani, traditionally to Kurtuluş (then named Tatavla). a wonderful meze table and delicious Adana Kebab.
Shrove Monday every year. Despite a 1943 ban on The staff speaks very little English but are most anx-
this Greek Orthodox pre-Lent carnival by the Turk- ious to be helpful.
ish authorities, there has been a revival initiative
from 2010. The tradition began in the 19th century • Kosebasi Kebap. This Zagat-rated kebab joint
or earlier, and even though the event was led by local serves traditional Turkish kebabs in modern/ up-
Greeks, the celebrations were open to everyone. It’s scale atmosphere. Levent is the main branch but
also a nice opportunity to look into Turkey’s multi- they have 7 more locations (including 3 express ver-
cultural past. sions) in Istanbul.
146.9. CONNECT 425
• Sosa. At Akmerkez Mall, Etiler. tel - +90 212 282 146.8.3 Splurge
01 51. Fairly priced salads and wraps among others.
• Ceylan Intercontinental Istanbul, ☎ +90 212
368 44 44, fax: +90 212 368 44 99, e-mail:
146.6.3 Splurge istanbul@interconti.com.tr. Asker Ocağı Cad.
No:1, near Taksim. Situated in the heart of the city,
146.7 Drink its fantastic location ensures all rooms have the views
of the city or of the Bosphorus.
• Aytekin Cafe, Sehit Muhtar Cad. 71 (north of Tak-
sim Square), ☎ +90 212 361 8402. Sidewalk cafe • Hilton Istanbul, Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Harbiye., ☎
offering hooka (nargile). +90 212 315 6000, fax: +90 212 240 4165. Hotel
offers a business center, fitness facilities, pool and
• Reassürans Pasajı in Nişantaşı houses many bars Turkish baths. Rooms have high speed internet ac-
and cafés and is a good place for bar hopping on a cess. Basic room starts at €175, most rooms be-
Saturday night. tween €250-350..
• Taps. A bar, restaurant and brewery in one. The
crowd is the general Nişantaşı crowd, it also attracts • Park Hyatt Istanbul - Maçka Palas, Tesvikiye,
a lot of expatriates. Bronz Sokak No. 4 Sisli, ☎ +90 212 315
1234, fax: +90 212 315 1235, e-mail:
istanbul.park@hyatt.com. A new 5 star hotel
146.7.1 Adult entertainment in the residential and shopping district Nisantasi.
Rooms combine Art Deco style and historic Turkish
• The city’s most reputable strip club, or gentleman’s decor with modern amenities: wireless internet
club, is Regina Revue, in Elmadag, near Taksim. access, DVD player and iPod docking station. The
It’s not a sleazy place and has been running for nearly hotel is also home to a spa, swimming pool and
30 years. Rather than a standard strip club with just restaurants. Emporio Armani and Gucci boutiques
a pole on the stage, Regina has many different decors are located on the ground floor.
and performances to music, with the girls acting out
different scenarios on stage.
146.9 Connect
146.8 Sleep
146.8.1 Budget
146.8.2 Mid range

• Istanbul Suites, ☎ +90 212 224 53 10. Harbiye
Çayiri Sokak No:111, Harbiye. Ranging from du-
plex to studio apartments which are all furnished
with modern appliances. It’s located in the city cen-
ter and is within a 5 minute walking distance to Tak-
sim, nişantaşı and the metro. Possibility for short
and long term rentals.
• Gallery Residence All-Suites Boutique Hotel,

Vali Konağı Cad. Süleyman Nazik Sk. 10, Nişan-
taşı, ☎ +90 212 291-77-10, fax: +90 212 224-40-
13, e-mail: info@galleryresidence.com. Suites with
fully equipped kitchens, DVD players, and fax ma-
chines. Free wi-fi, breakfast, sauna, jacuzzi, and fit-
ness.
• Jazz Hotel, Bahtiyar Sokak 1, Nişantaşı, ☎ +90

212 296-30-02, fax: +90 212 296-30-09, e-mail:
jazz@jazzhotel.com.tr. Jazz-themed boutique hotel
with 12 rooms named after famous jazz artists. Free
wi-fi and breakfast.
Chapter 147
Istanbul/Princes’ Islands
away in the sea, southwest of Kınalıada). This article will

focus on the four major ones, as public transport to un-
inhabited islands is virtually non-existent, and much of
Sedef is private property with limited access.
The islands are an interesting anomaly because they allow
for a very rare, albeit incomplete, insight into a multicul-
tural society in modern Turkey, possibly alike to the mul-
ticultural society that once existed during the Ottoman
Empire in places such as nearby Istanbul/Constantinople.
Prior to 1950s, each of the inhabited islands had signifi-
cant communities of ethnic minorities of Turkey, which
still is the case to a much smaller extent. Since the vast
Typical street scene on Princes’ Islands: fayton in front of a majority of the residents and visitors are Turkish, today
wooden chalet their legacy is of cultural rather than of demographic im-
portance: Kınalıada (Greek: Proti) used to be the summer
The Princes’ Islands (Turkish: Prens Adaları, also İstan- retreat of the Armenian archbishop and the Armenian
bul Adaları, Kızıl Adalar or Adalar; “Islands of Istanbul”, community of Istanbul, Burgazada (Greek: Antigoni)
“Red Islands”, and “Islands” respectively) are a group used to be a sleepy village inhabited by Greek fisher-
of nine islands off the Asian coast of Istanbul, Turkey. men. Heybeliada (Greek: Halki) was the main Turk-
Their name is variously –and incorrectly- spelled also as ish settlement on the Princes’ Islands, while Büyükada
“Prince’s Islands” or “Princess’ Islands” across the World (Greek: Prinkipos) was mostly favored by local Jews and
Wide Web. foreign residents of Istanbul, mostly of European descent,
although all of these ethnicities could be encountered on
Büyükada. This is partially responsible for the different
characters of the islands that lie so close to each other.
147.1 Understand
These islands prove to be a good day-trip especially when
The Princes’ Islands take their name from the fact that you are bored of the crowd, noise, and traffic of Istanbul.
during Byzantine and early Ottoman period, members of Quite a shock is what many travellers experience upon
dynasties who fell out of favor were sent to exile there. their return to the city, when full-blast car horns are still
Until late 19th century, when regular steamer transporta- the way how they were when left behind early in the morn-
tion showed up in the seas around Istanbul, these islands ing.
were considered remote and far-away places. Apart from One of the best times to be on the islands is during spring
the exiled princes, only a handful of monks found these is- (April-May) and during autumn (September-October).
lands inhabitable then, a fact which gives the islands their During these seasons, the air is neither that cold nor hot,
former name in Turkish: Keşiş Adaları (“Islands of the the islands are not very crowded and during spring (espe-
Monks”). cially in late March), the mimosa trees, which are some
The Princes’ Islands consist of four major and five minor sort of symbol of the islands, are in full bloom of their yel-
islands. Major ones are as follows (from west to east, also low flowers. At weekends during summer (June-August),
from smallest to biggest): Kınalıada, Burgaz, Heybeli- all of the islands are really crowded, and so are the ships.
ada, and Büyükada. Apart from these, only one more Avoid if you can. During winter, the exact opposite is
island of the archipelago is inhabited, that is Sedef which the case. However, if you want to enjoy the islands blan-
lies east of Büyükada. The other, unhabited ones are: keted by snow and/or a very gloomy and almost deserted
Tavşan south of Büyükada, Kaşık (between Burgaz and “ghost-town” experience and don’t mind the biting cold,
Heybeliada), Yassıada and Sivriada (both lying further then winter is definitely that season.
426
If you don’t have time to visit all of the islands, pick also has private mid-sized boat connection to the islands
Büyükada: it’s undoubtedly the “queen” of the islands. in addition to liners and fast ferries. See Asian Side arti-
cle for an extensive detail of how to get to Bostancı from
more central parts of the city.
147.1.1 Orientation A trip on liners typically take around an hour and a half
from European Side, and 45 minutes from Asian Side.
Büyükada
Typical cost: 5TL (one way).
Almost all ferries call at all four major islands in a row,
but sometimes they first call at Büyükada, and other times
at Kınalıada. Island names are not announced by voice
inside the ships, so be sure to check the large signs on the
quays to make sure that the island you are about to step
on is the one that you want to step on.
147.3 Get around
Central square of Büyükada, with the historical harbor building

at the back
Upon getting off the ferry, you’ll recognize the clock at

the square just a block up in front of you. This is the
main square of Büyükada, and around it is the town cen-
tre. Most grocery stores are to your left, as well as the
restaurants which also occupy the waterfront to your left
when exiting the quay. From the clock, major roads of
the island diverge left (east), right (west), and straight
ahead (south) among some mansions (best of which are
lined on the main road to right) towards the hill, as well as Faytons waiting
narrower streets and alleys connecting these. These roads
join each other again in Birlik Meydanı Square (lit. “union
square”, perhaps because the roads “unite” there), the ge-
ographical centre point of the island, lying amongst pine
woods between the two main hilltops. From that square,
whether you take the road to left or right, you will end
up in the same square, as that road encircles the southern
half of the island, at a distance to the sea. The Church of
St George lies at the end of another cobbled uphill path
starting from Birlik Meydanı.
There is a large and detailed map of the island posted at
the left of exit of ferry quay.
147.2 Get in Horses at the ferry jetty
The only way to get to islands is by sea: whether Istan-

bul liners or fast ferries, available at various hours ev-
ery day. From European Side of Istanbul, you can take 147.3.1 On the islands
a boat from Kabataş, while from Asian Side, the piers
with a connection to the islands are located in Kadıköy, As the motorized vehicles (save for service vehicles like
Bostancı, Maltepe and Kartal. The most frequent de- school buses or ambulances) are all banned on the islands,
partures are from Bostancı (especially in winter), which the most popular way of getting around is horse-drawn
428 CHAPTER 147. ISTANBUL/PRINCES’ ISLANDS
carriages (fayton), which can be likened to taxis, or the • Hagios Giorgios Church (Saint George/Aya Yorgi)
dolmuş, of the mainland. There is a fixed price for every is located on one of two summits of Büyükada. Af-
location (in Büyükada, they are announced on the sign in ter reaching the central point of the island (known
the main fayton stop near the quay). The greatest price is as Birlik Meydanı Square), you should climb a steep
for a total loop (known as Büyük Tur) around the island cobblestoned path on foot to get there (it’s too steep
(length: about 15 km, price: about YTL 45 for Büyükada for a fayton, as well as a bike, to climb). It takes
in April, 2007). Price is per fayton, i.e. not dependent on about 35-40 minutes. Although the church build-
how much people the fayton carries (but they accept no ing itself is unexceptional with nothing really fas-
more than 4, and some horses are not very comfortable cinating, the backyard of the church offers some
with more than 3 passengers). Please note that there are very beautiful sights of the other islands and the sea.
no faytons in Kınalıada, as that island is not big enough On April 23rd every year, which is considered as
to justify taking one. St George’s holy day, a crowd of seemingly tens of
thousands attend the church to make wishes. Wish-
Also renting a bike is another alternative. The fare was
about YTL 3.00 per hour in winter, 2005. Most renters making rituals that day range from usual burning a
candle to climbing the cobbled path on bare feet to
require you to leave an official identification to be re-
turned after the payment is made. A student ID may suf- untying wool balls all along the path. The final part
fice. Some renters distribute a road map of the island free of the path that day is as crowded as a rock con-
of charge, don’t forget to ask for it. cert (except very early in the morning, like 6AM,
it’s reported), because police officers let people in
Walking the pleasant streets of the islands is obviously in groups of 10-15 at once, to avoid an overcrowd-
an alternative, too. ing inside the church. If you decide to burn a candle
that day keep in mind that nearer the church you are,
cheaper the candles being sold around (for example,
147.3.2 Between the islands in 2007 it was YTL 2.00 near the quay, while the
going price very near the church was YTL 0.50 per
All boats operating between the islands and the mainland candle). But better of all would be to buy the candle
call at all of the major islands, so you can also take them inside the church for a donation (it’s up to you how
for island-hopping. much to pay) as none of the profit of the candles sold
on the streets benefits the church. And a sidenote:
Most of the people attending the church and waiting
147.4 See for a blessing from the priest upon exit that day are
non-Christian Turks, but there is nothing surprising
about that: This is Turkey, where east meets west
(and vice versa) and cultures truly mix.
• On the other summit of Büyükada, amidst the

pine woods lies the abandoned and dilapidated
Greek Orphanage (Rum Yetimhanesi), looking like
a haunted manor. Originally built as a hotel in
late 19th century, this completely-wooden, 4-story
building is the second largest wooden construction
in whole world (the largest in Europe). It’s danger-
ous to enter the building itself (because it’s slowly
decaying), and also forbidden.
• Both the eastern and western side of Büyükada is full

of wooden Victorian-style mansions dating back to
late 19th/early 20th century, similars of which have
been bulldozed in the rest of Istanbul (with the ex-
ception of neighborhoods on Bosphorus banks) to
make way for concrete, multi-story apartment build-
ings. The ones on the western side (right side when
looking out of quay) seem more splendid. Just don’t
be surprised and don’t start looking for them as soon
as you get off the ship: Around the quay is more like
One of the typical wooden mansions on Büyükada a modest town centre. They are located about 15
min walk away from the quay.
147.9. SLEEP 429
147.5 Do good T-Bone Steak or Shrimp Scampi you may visit

By Şükrü's Winehouse. Just minutes away from the
• Great/Total Circuit (Büyük Tur, about 15 km in pier, By Şükrü is easy to get to and one of the most
Büyükada): Either by fayton or bike. It’s not as hard visited restaurants on the island. Reservations are
as it may sound, except a few slopes. suggested for weekends. US$ 20.
• Have a picnic in a scenic spot.

147.9 Sleep
147.6 Buy Büyükada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of
hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred
by many tourists but not spectacularly clean.
147.7 Eat
• Alibaba Restaurant, Gülistan Cad. no: 18, • Anastasia Meziki Hotel, Malulgazi Cad.No:24
Büyükada (in the town centre, on the left side when Buyukada, ☎ +90 216 382-34-44, e-mail:
walking out of the ferry quay), ☎ +90 216 382-37- info@mezikiotel.com. 15 rooms.
33, fax: +90 216 382-36-00. 10AM-1AM. Seafood
restaurant in Büyükada. Reservation is advised on • Ascot Hotel, Madenler Mahallesi, Çınar Caddesi 6,
Saturdays. Visa, Mastercard and AmEx accepted. Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382-28-88. A new boutique
hotel with a pool, garden, restaurant, and bar. 22
• Konak Lokantası, Recep Koçak Cad. no: 87, rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Best rates on official
Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382-54-79. Kebab and tra- website start at € 85.
ditional Turkish cuisine. Visa and Mastercard ac-
cepted. • İdeal Pansiyon, Kadıyoran Caddesi 4, Büyükada
(very close to the clock at the square, about a block
• Köşem Restoran, ş.Recep Koçak Cad. No:49, upper from there), ☎ +90 216 382-68-57. One of
Büyükada (turn left when you get off the ferry, then the cheapest places to stay while in Büyükada, İdeal
see it on your right in about 200m), ☎ +90 216 382- Pansiyon is housed in a historical wooden mansion.
11-20. Very nice and cheap place, lots of locals While the beds and linens are clean, and this guest-
eat here. There is both cafe-like service and self- house offers the experience to stay in a historical
service. mansion (in fact, the building can serve as the set-
ting of a horror movie), the downside of it is that not
all rooms have en-suite bathrooms, and the building
• Sofrada Restoran, Recep Koçak Cad. İsa Çelebi and furniture are so old that you can easily overhear
Sokak 10, Büyükada (walk towards the clock tower what is going on in the next or upper room in all
as you exit the ferry and take a left at the clock, walk its entirety (the same is true for your room as well).
about 20 meters and take a right on the street with the Heating is also reported to be a little problematic,
new, large Marine House Hotel. The restaurant is on so also take this into consideration in winter as well.
the same side as the hotel, on your right.), ☎ +90 50 TL pp at weekends in spring months, possibly
216 382-76-39. 10AM-10PM. This small quaint cheaper in winter and on week days.
restaurant is run by a family and was formerly called
Ada Ev Yemekleri. It features traditional Turkish
and Eastern Med cuisine at great prices. Very tasty • Mimoza Pansiyon, Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382-74-
and an authentic slice of the Islands and Turkish cui- 35, e-mail: mimozapansiyon@hotmail.com. Guest-
sine. From 8 TL (GB£ 4/US$ 6) pp. Credit cards house offering rooms with central heating, air con-
accepted. ditioner, hot water, and wireless internet.
• Splendid Palace Hotel, 23 Nisan Cad. no:

147.8 Drink 53, Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382-67-75, e-mail:
info@splendidhotel.net. Located in an Art-Nouveau
building which dates back to 1908.
• By Şükrü, Gülistan Caddesi #16, Büyükada, ☎ +90
216 382-12-45 (for group or fixed menu pricing,
please call Susan at +90-532-700-22-11). 10AM-
3AM. By Şükrü is located right on the sea front 147.10 Stay safe
with a variety of fresh seafood, kebob and vegetar-
ian dishes. You can enjoy live music every Saturday If you are doing the great circuit of Büyükada, beware of
night in the tavern, and for those of you who miss a dogs near the cemetery, which suddenly start barking at
430 CHAPTER 147. ISTANBUL/PRINCES’ ISLANDS
and chasing you when you are about to re-enter the built-
up area in the east of the island if you are circumambu-
lating the island counter-clockwise (or after you have just
entered the wooded section if you are doing clockwise).
The best reaction is to speed up as much as your legs and
the bicycle can endure, they give up after a certain length
of chase. This warning is especially true for winter.
Also, whether you are a pedestrian or a cyclist, always
give way to faytons to avoid dangerous collisions. Don’t
be fooled by the absence of motorized vehicles: Always
check the road first when crossing. The horses can and
do have real high speeds.
147.11 Connect
The telephone code for islands is (+90) 216, which is
same with the Asian Side but different from European
Side.
147.12 Go next
If you are not going to stay overnight in the islands, don’t
forget to take a note of departure times of ships back
to the city before leaving the quay building. Ships are less
frequent after the night falls, especially in winter. Gen-
erally the most frequent line (and the one with the latest
departure) is Islands-Bostancı one. From Bostancı, you
can take dolmuş or public bus (#112) to Taksim in Euro-
pean Side. (once in Bostancı quay, cross the street, walk
straight ahead, cross the pedestrian passage under the rail-
way, climb up the second stairs on the left. You’ll come
across a little square, on the opposite edge of it is where
dolmuşes and buses to Taksim depart). Note that the sea
can be rough in spring, autumn and winter, and the is-
lands are sometimes cut off from the outside world when
the ferry services are cancelled due to storms and high
waves.
Chapter 148
Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old City
The Old City of Istanbul (Turkish: Eski İstanbul, also UNESCO in 1985.
Tarihi Yarımada and Suriçi, “Historical Peninsula”, and
“Walled City” respectively) is the oldest part of Istanbul,
and the location of most of its historical sights.
148.2 Get in
148.1 Understand
Being one of the most central parts of the city, getting
to the Old City by public transport is easy. The water-
front often hosts cruise ships, providing passengers (not
on tours) with easy, self-arranged access to sights and
shopping.
148.2.1 By tram
A modern tram line lies all along the old city, connecting
it with Galata and other places north, and the suburbs in
the west. Tram stations are located at Eminönü, Sirkeci,
Gülhane, Sultanahmet, Beyazıt, and Aksaray among oth-
ers.
Topkapı Palace as seen from across Bosphorus With the cancellation of public bus line T4 between Tak-
sim and Sultanahmet, easiest way to get to the old city
from Taksim by public transport now is to take the funic-
Being a peninsula bounded by bodies of water to the
ular from inside the metro station at Taksim Square and
north, east, and south (the Golden Horn, Bosphorus, and
then transfer on to tram at Kabataş station.
the Sea of Marmara, respectively) and by the old city
walls to west, this part of the city is essentially what used
to be called Constantinople. The rest, of what is today
Istanbul, were independent cities, towns, villages, fields
or even complete wilderness later absorbed by the city. 148.2.2 By metro
This process is still going on as Istanbul grows with in-
creasing speed. A metro/light rail line connects Atatürk International Air-
port and the main bus station (otogar) outside the city
Istanbul, or Byzantium as it was called then, was first with Aksaray. From Aksaray, you can take the tram
settled by Greek colonists from Megara on the Greek (follow the ‘tramvay’ signs) for places deeper into the
mainland in 667BC. They founded their city at Seraglio Old City (such as Sultanahmet). If you are approach-
Point (Sarayburnu) which is now occupied by the Top- ing from the airport, you can also change from metro to
kapı Palace. However, recent discoveries in a subway tram in Zeytinburnu. Changing at Zeytinburnu is better
construction site in Yenikapı (on the southern coast of than changing at Aksaray, as the metro and tram stations
the peninsula) dates the very first time of Istanbul’s set- in Zeytinburnu are much nearer to each other (making it
tlement back to about 8000 years ago, which makes the highly unlikely to get lost!) and it’s the first station along
city one of the oldest still-inhabited spots of the world. the line, which means you can easily secure a seat after
This peninsula was declared a World Heritage Site by your long flight.
431
432 CHAPTER 148. ISTANBUL/SULTANAHMET-OLD CITY
148.2.3 By bus 148.3 Get around

Public buses connect various spots in the old city with 148.3.1 By tram
various other places. For the traveller, the most useful
lines are as follows: The tram line connects almost all of the sights frequented
by travellers.
• 61B Taksim – Beyazıt (very near the Grand Bazaar;
also about 10-15min walk or 3-4min tram ride away 148.3.2 On foot
from Sultanahmet)
Most of the sights in the old city are close enough to be
• 96T the bus from Atatürk Airport to Taksim also negotiated on foot, as they are located in or around Sul-
passes through some parts of old city. The stop near- tanahmet Square. For many others, just follow the tram
est to Sultanahmet is Aksaray/Valide Sultan. From line. However, between Eminönü/Sirkeci and Sultanah-
there, you can take the tram. met, it is faster to take the shortcut through Ankara Cad-
desi (Street) and stray away from the tramline as the tram-
line follows an arch through that part of the city.
• You can get on any bus which goes to Eminönü or
The sidewalk along Hüdavendigar Caddesi between
Beyazıt since both places are very close to Sultanah-
Sirkeci, Gülhane, and Sultanahmet Square is not very
met, if you would like to go there. You can either
wide and trams pass along fairly close to the sidewalk, so
walk (about 10–15min) or take a tram from both
watch your steps especially when you hear tram’s horn.
places. However, there might be traffic at certain
times.
148.4 See
148.2.4 By boat Many of Istanbul’s historical gems, mostly consisting of
Byzantine and Ottoman-built monuments are within the
Liners from Kadıköy and Üsküdar across the Bosphorus Old City. Most are located a short walk away from, if not
moor at Eminönü. There are also smaller private boats immediately on the edges of, Sultanahmet Square. Some
plying on the same routes. Another option is to take the other sights are dispersed throughout the peninsula.
boat from Üsküdar to Kabataş and take the tram.
There is a very handy museum pass allowing access to
If you are arriving in Istanbul by one of fast ferries from many of the key spots on Sultanahmet. A pass valid for
towns across on the southern and southeastern coast of 3 days can be purchased for 85 TL, while a five day pass
Marmara, your likely point of entry to the city is Yenikapı that allows access to some additional sites is 115 TL (July
on the southern shore of the peninsula. 2014 prices). The pass allows free access to:
• Topkapi Palace and Harem

148.2.5 By train • Hagia Sophia
Trains from Europe and European Turkey have their • Hagia Irene
terminii at Sirkeci station, which is located in this dis-
• Istanbul Archaeological Museums
trict. It’s also possible to take the suburban trains (ban-
liyö treni), which have about 30min intervals and cost • Istanbul Mosaic Museum
TRY1.50, from Bakırköy and other coastal suburbs in the
west to Sirkeci. • Museum for the History of Science and Technology
in Islam
• Museum of Turkey and Islamic Arts

148.2.6 By taxi • Chora Museum (five day pass only)
In istanbul there are lot of yellow taxis and cab fares are • Galata Mevlevi House Museum (five day pass only)
not expensive. From Atatürk Airport (IST) to Sultanah-
met is about 18km and the cab fare is c. TRY30 (USD17, • Yildiz Palace (five day pass only)
when USD1 = TRY1.85). Also from Sabiha Gokcen Air- • Rumeli Hisar Museum (five day pass only)
port (SAW) to Sultanahmet is about 45km and the cab
fare is c. TRY75 (USD40). • Fethiye Museum (five day pass only)
148.4. SEE 433
In addition to saving money when visiting multiple sites, • Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı, Bab-i Hümayün
the card allows you to skip the queue for tickets and go Caddesi) (by tram: Gülhane/Sultanahmet), ☎ +90
straight to the gates at all sites. The brochure provided 212 512-0480. M,W-Su 09:00-18:00. The imperial
with the card will also list tourist services such as shuttles, enclave of the Ottoman emperors for four centuries.
shops, and tours that offer discounts for cardholders. Contains exhibitions of fine craftmanship. Lavishly
It is worth noting that most museums in Istanbul are decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur.
closed on Mondays, so checking the website first or ring- In the second court of the entrance to the Harem
ing is a sensible option before setting off. (admission extra) and the State Treasury, housing
a weaponry display. The third court has the Im-
perial Treasury. Both Islamic and Christian relics,
148.4.1 Around Sultanahmet Square rugs, china. The views from the Fourth Court over
the Bosphorus are spectacular. You can also see
Prophet Mohammed’s belongings.
BEWARE Any bus or tram with a sign or indica-
tion that it heads for or calls at Topkapı will NOT
take you anywhere near Topkapı Palace. Rather, it is
going to a neighbourhood named after the city gate
near which it’s situated (“cannon gate”), which may
be worth a trip to take a look at the impressive city
walls. Topkapı neighbourhood is located in the ex-
treme western part of the old city, near the city walls,
while Topkapı Palace is located in the extreme east-
ern part, which means the distance between them
is at least 7–8 km. ‘Topkapı’ alone almost always
refers to the neighbourhood, not the palace. Taking
Hagia Sofia
a bus heading for Topkapı to go to the palace is a
common mistake made by travellers. For the palace,
the stop/station you should look for is 'Sultanahmet'
TRY30, Harem TRY15 extra (no concessions; only
credit cards and Turkish currency accepted.).
• Hagia Irene (Aya İrini) (on the grounds of Topkapı

Palace). Hagia Irene, which you will notice to your
left after entering the outer yard of Topkapı Palace,
is one of few Byzantine-era cathedrals which was
never converted to a mosque (though not used for re-
ligious purposes either during the Ottoman period).
The place is now accessible year-round which is a
novelty, but requires a different entry fee from Top-
kapı palace.
Inside Hagia Sofia
• Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya), Ayasofya Meydanı (By

tram T1: Sultanahmet), ☎ +90 212 522-1750. Tu-
Su 09:00-19:00. Dating from the sixth century, it
was originally a basilica constructed for the East-
ern Roman Emperor Justinian I. A masterwork of
Roman engineering, the huge 30 m diameter dome
covers what was for over 1000 years the largest en-
closed space in the world. The church was looted by
the fourth Crusaders in 1204, and became a mosque
in the 15th century when The Ottomans conquered
the city. It was converted into a museum in 1935.
Don't miss the excellent mosaics, including those in
the gallery, reached by a stone ramp to the left of
the entrance. You can hire a guide at the entrance Sultanahmet also known as the Blue Mosque
of the museum. TRY30.
Basilica Cistern
statues of Medusa are impressive. TRY3 for Turk-

ish citizens, otherwise 20 TL (no concessions; only
Turkish currency and credit cards accepted)..
• Hippodrome (adjacent to the Basilica Cistern, Blue

Mosque and Hagia Sophia). This was the centre of
Roman and Byzantine Constantinople, and is a great
place to begin one’s tour and to watch people. The
Blue Mosque, close-up building no longer stands, but the obelisks and sculp-
tures that have been collected here since Theodo-
• Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), Meydan sius’ time in the fourth century remain. The four
Sokak 17 (By tram T1: Sultanahmet), ☎ +90 212 bronze horses in the facade of St. Marco in Venice
518-1319. May-Oct 09:00-21:00, Nov-Apr 09:00- used to be on top of the Emperor’s box in the Hip-
19:00. With its six minarets and sweeping archi- podrome and they were looted by the crusaders in
tecture the Sultanahmet or 'Blue' Mosque impresses 1204. While you are on your way to the hippo-
from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still drome, don’t forget to check out German Foun-
a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard tain (Alman Çeşmesi), a neo-Byzantine style foun-
on the SW side which is back side of mosque. No tain building at the square leading to Hippodrome.
shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and It was a gift sent by German Kaiser Wilhelm II to
you will need to remove your footwear (bags are pro- the Ottoman Sultan.
vided that you can place your shoes in). The mosque
is closed during ritual prayer but mosque volun- • The Museum of Archaeology (Arkeoloji Müzesi),
teers provide you with a free presentation about the Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Gülhane (Tram T1:
Mosque and also about Islam during that period. Gülhane; take the first right after entering Gülhane
The venue for this event is the Mosque’s conference Park), ☎ +90 212 520-7742. Tu-Su 09:00-19:00.
hall. It is the building with “Free Event” sign that Tickets sales stop at 18:00. A must see! One of
will be on your left while you are approaching the the best, including a great collection of Sumerian
Mosque from Hagia Sophia. They do not charge you tablets, pieces of the wall of Babylon and Roman
anything. Free, donations welcome upon exit. marble statues. The Alexander Sarcophagus, once
believed to be the sarcophagus of Alexander the
Great himself (but later found out to be not the case),
• Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici), Yerebatan which is very well preserved and highly adorned with
Cad 13 (By tram T1: Sultanahmet). 09:00-18:30. A bas-relief carvings of Alexander the Great is among
giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to the most famous pieces of ancient art displayed in
provide water to the city in cases of siege. A wooden the museum. TRY15.
walkway winds between the 336 columns, most of
which were re-used from other sites and are highly • Great Palace Mosaics Museum (Büyük Saray
decorated. The massive underground space is worth Mozaikleri Müzesi), Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet
a visit simply to marvel at the scale of building in an- (just south of Blue Mosque), ☎ +90 212 518-1205,
cient times. Lights and piped music add to the eerie fax: +90 212 512-54-74. Tu-Su 09:00-16:30. Lo-
atmosphere. Bring some type of fish food as you'll cated in Arasta Bazaar, this museum hosts the pave-
see enormous fish swimming below your feet. The ment mosaics of the Byzantine-era Great Palace of
148.4. SEE 435
Constantinople, which once occupied all the way the Palace situated right above. Those cafés sell tea
from Sultanahmet Square, then the Hippodrome, to by teapot (which equals to well over 5 glasses of
the coast of the Sea of Marmara. tea), and a teapot of tea costs TRY6, or TRY8 for
two persons for which you will get a slightly bigger
• Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (Sultanah- teapot (note that while tea in each teapot is enough
met). CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR RENOVA- for two persons, they only serve one glass if you or-
TION Carpets, rugs, calligraphy, pottery. With der one-person-teapots which cost TRY6). On your
the same ticket, you can visit also the Ethnographic way to the cafés, don't forget to check out the Col-
Museum downstairs where you can learn about the umn of the Goths (Gotlar Sütunu), a Corinthian-
lifestyle of the Turks and their ancestors. TRY10. style marble pillar dating back to Roman times, lo-
cated just behind the entrances of cafés. It was
• Million (on the street with the tram line, close to the erected in honour of victory over Goths by either
entrance of Basilica Cistern). While this partially in- Claudius II Gothicus (reigned 268-270) or Constan-
tact marble pillar dating back to the 4th century AD tine the Great (reigned 306-337), and it likely is
may seem unremarkable, it was the starting point of the oldest artefact dating back to Roman era that
any distance measured within the empire during the is still intact in the city and possibly pre-dates the
Byzantine era, so it may be nice to think that you foundation of Constantinople, with some badly de-
are in the centre of where all the roads lead to (or, formed Latin inscriptions on its pedestal. Also near
rather, start from). the café is the ruins of a monastery dating back to
Byzantine times. The park has two gates, one near
Sultanahmet (on the street between Sultanahmet Sq
and Sirkeci, the street on which trams run), and the
other on the avenue lying on the coastline. To get
to Sirkeci/Eminönü from the latter, turn left after
exiting the park. Free.
• Soğukçeşme Street (Soğukçeşme Sokağı) (between

Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, and the gate of Gül-
hane Park). A car-free downhill cobbled street
just behind Hagia Sophia, with renovated (or totally
re-built) traditional wooden houses two- or three-
storeys tall typical of Ottoman era, leaning against
the outer wall of Topkapı Palace grounds/Gülhane
Park. Worth a look to see what typical streetscape
of Istanbul was like before the concrete came over.
While around there, don't forget to check out Foun-
tain of Sultan Ahmed III, at the square in front
of the outer gate of Topkapı Palace, a huge stan-
dalone fountain building built in typical Ottoman ro-
coco style in 1728.
• History of Science and Technology in Islam Mu-
seum, Gülhane Park. Fascinating museum in re-
cently restored building that was the stables for Top-
kapi Palace. Contains mainly reconstructions of his-
Main footpath of Gülhane Park lined with plane trees torical instruments and tools including instruments
for astronomy, clocks, and pumps. Advances the
view that Islamic science and technology preceded
• Gülhane Park (near Sultanahmet, and next door that of Europe.
to Museum of Archaeology). This park was royal
hunting grounds in the past. Today it’s a public park • Istanbul Railway Museum (TCDD Mu-
with lots of seasonal flowers, including huge patches seum), Sirkeci Railway Station (Within sta-
of tulips in early April, and huge plane trees (pla- tion at ground level.), ☎ +90 (212) 520
tanus)—which means lots of shade as well. The high 65 75 / 7885, toll-free: N/A, e-mail:
walls on one side of the park separates it from Top- istanbuldemiryolumuzesi@tcdd.gov.tr. 10:00-
kapı Palace. At one end of the park are a group of 17:00. This ever popular gem of a museum
nice outdoor cafés—all of which basically serve the combines in a single room many different and un-
same drinks and snacks—with a view of Bospho- usual artifacts covering both Ottoman and Modern
rus, a view that is as charming as the view from Turkish railway history. Likely to appeal both to
the dedicated rail fan and those with a more casual

interest in the history of Turkey and the Ottoman
Empire. The Orient Express used to depart from
just opposite the museum. The station itself dates
from late Ottoman times and is full of attractive
architectural detail. Closed on Mondays and certain
national holidays. Free.
148.4.2 Elsewhere
Valens Aqueduct as seen from southeast
Zeyrek Mosque with the three former churches making it up still

distinguishable
Chora (chora translates “countryside” in Byzantine

Greek, which refers to what the site of the church
exactly was when it was built), this is 1000 year old
Interior of Chora Church Byzantine church, an example of a church some-
what out of the traditional centre, but is an absolute
must see with precious mosaic frescoes and a capti-
vating mood inside. The early church frescoes had
been covered with plaster for nearly 500 years, as the
building had been converted into a mosque, but were
uncovered in the mid-twentieth century and have
been partially restored. Mind blowing frescoes and
mosaics now cover the entire inside of this church
but unfortunately access is presently limited to the
outer areas due to restoration work. Nevertheless,
there is still much to be seen. An impressive sec-
tion of the Theodosian walls is a short walk from
the church. TRY15.
• Patriarchate of Constantinople (Fener Rum Pa-

Tower of Phanar Greek College trikhanesi), Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi, Fener (be-
tween S. Ali Paşa Cd. and İncebel Sokağı; north-
west of old city, close to Golden Horn shore), ☎
• Chora Church (Kariye Müzesi), Edirnekapı (near +90 212 531-9670, fax: +90 212 534-9037, e-mail:
the city walls; bus: #87 from Taksim), ☎ +90 212 patriarchate@ec-patr.org. 08.30-16:00. Arguably
631-9241, fax: +90 212 621-3435. Th-Tu 09:00- the centre of World Orthodoxy, housed since 1586
16:30. Also known as the Church of St Saviour in in Church of St George (Greek: Agíou Geōrgíou,
148.4. SEE 437
Turkish: Aya Yorgi), which is, despite its religious ceremonial entrance into the capital, used especially
importance, an otherwise unremarkable and unim- for the occasions of a triumphal entry of an emperor
pressive building from outside, though its lavishly into the capital on the occasion of military victo-
decorated interior is worth a look. While you ries. During Ottoman era, a fortress was built next
are around, don't forget to check out the Phanar to it (“the Fortress of Seven Towers”, direct trans-
Greek College (Fener Rum Lisesi) just next to the St lation of its current Turkish name) and during late
George, which has an imposing tower made of red Ottoman period, it served as a state prison for high-
brick which seems to appear straight out of medieval level detainees like ambassadors or pashas.
times.
• Zeyrek Mosque (Turkish: Zeyrek Camii, also
• St Stephen Church (Sveti Stefan Kilisesi), Fener Molla Zeyrek Camii), Sinanağa Mah. İbadethane
(on the southern shore of the Horn; close to wa- Sokak, Zeyrek (west of Atatürk Bulvarı/Unkapanı).
terfront, on the main avenue). CURRENTLY Located in the neighbourhood of Zeyrek close to
CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS. A Bulgarian Or- Fatih, Zeyrek Mosque is made by joining two for-
thodox church better known as Demir Kilise, i.e. mer churches and a chapel all located next to each
“Iron Church”, St Stephen is totally made of cast other. It represents the most typical example of ar-
iron, a product of 19th century experimentation with chitecture of the Byzantine middle period and is, af-
prefabricated iron churches. This building combin- ter Hagia Sophia, the second largest religious edifice
ing neo-Gothic and neo-Baroque influences, has a built by the Byzantines still extant in Istanbul. A re-
richly ornamented exterior. ally picturesque place, so prepare your camera! One
word of caution, it is located in a somewhat rough
• Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii), Sü- neighbourhood, so better visited when there is still
leymaniye Mh. (About 15-20min walk away from daylight. Free.
Beyazıt tram stop/Grand Bazaar, also same distance
away from Eminönü, but you should walk uphill • Old City Walls. The old city walls, which were
from there). On the top of a hill overlooking Golden built during the reign (408–450) of Byzantine em-
Horn is a work of Sinan, an Ottoman architect of peror Theodosius II and enclose the entire western
the 16th century. The mosque is a fine example of boundary of the peninsula from the Golden Horn
Ottoman architecture of the era, and inspired the ar- to the coast of the Sea of Marmara, are mostly in-
chitects of the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet) which tact although partially dilapidated, suffering from
was built later. Comparing these two mosques, Sü- unsightly restorations of early 1990s, and occasion-
leymaniye is noted for its gloomier and more atmo- ally pierced by wide avenues into the old city. For a
spheric feeling. Next to the courtyard of the mosque complete and detailed walking route along the walls,
are tombs of Sinan himself, Sultan Suleiman the see “Theodosian Walls Walk” section of main Istan-
Magnificent, and his Ukrainian spouse, Roxelana bul article. Those too lazy to do the entire route
(known as Hürrem Sultan in Turkish). Free admis- may check out easily accessible sections around
sion (both the mosque building itself and tombs in Chora Church, Pazartekke station of T1 tram line,
the courtyard). or Yedikule Fortress.
• Little Hagia Sophia (Kücük Ayasofya Camii),
• Valens Aqueduct (over Atatürk Boulevard, north
Küçük Ayasofya Cd No:78, Fatih (10min walk from
of Aksaray, south of Unkapanı). A double-storey
Tram T1 Sultanhamet stop, or 5 minutes from Hip-
Roman one built during the reign of Valens (r. 364-
podrome / Blue Mosque by going roughly south and
378) to provide the city with fresh water coming
downhill). Formerly known as the Church of the
from the surrounding forests, this 921-metre long
Saints Sergius and Bacchus, this building was con-
aqueduct spans the valley occupied by what is now
structed around 530CE (at about the same time as
Atatürk Boulevard (Atatürk Bulvarı), which lies in
Hagia Sophia) and was transformed into a mosque
the very middle of the peninsula, connecting Ak-
following the Ottoman conquest. This building is
saray with Unkapanı on the bank of Golden Horn
beautifully decorated and offers a much more inti-
and then Taksim Square, behind the opposite shore
mate experience than the large mosques scattered
of Golden Horn. The aqueduct is one of the symbols
throughout Fatih. Adjoining is a small madrasa with
of the city and it will likely welcome you to the city
truly original craft shops.
on your way from airport to hotel if you are going to
stay around Taksim/Beyoğlu. • Rüstem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Cami),
Hasırcılar Cd 74-88, Fatih (7 min. walk for
• Yedikule Fortress (Yedikule Hisarı) (suburban Tramway T1 Eminönü stop, the mosque is on a
train: Yedikule). This fortress in the very southwest terrace accessible from street level through stair-
of old city, next to the city walls was Porta Aurea, i.e. cases.). Built in 1564 by renowned architect Sinan
“Golden Gate” of Roman times, when it was main for Rüstem Pasha, Grand Vizier of Suleiman the
Magnificent, this small mosque is the archetype of are done, they give you a souvenir; a pair of under-
Ottoman art. Of notice are the interior walls fully wear and a comb. Self-service €20, scrubbing €23,
covered by beautiful Iznik pottery, then at its height massage €30, self-service, scrubbing, and massage
of sophistication. €40, and luxury service €45. Credit cards not ac-
cepted.
148.5 Do • Süleymaniye Hamamı, Mimar Sinan Cad-

desi 20, ☎ +90 212 520-3410, e-mail:
• Walk Along the Golden Horn Poke around forgot- info@suleymaniyehamami.com. Sultan Suley-
ten corners just over this hauntingly beautiful inlet man had this Hamam built by the famous Architect
from the Bosphorus. You make some thrilling - and Sinan in 1550. Architect Sinan build this hamam
chilling - “finds” on cobbled streets as you trace its for himself, and used this hamam for washing as did
narrow alleyways and ancient squares. The Greek the Sultan himself once. It’s a bit touristy, though
Orthodox Patriarchate housing a column which is it could be worse, and the Suleymaniye hamam is
believed to have been used for the binding and the only mixed hamam in Istanbul. There are no
flogging of criminals in Jerusalem is here. The different sections for each sex, thus the families
magnificent Neo-Gothic, Neo Baroque -well lit- may comfortably enjoy this hamam together.
erally hand made doll house -St.Stephens Church Hamam also has two way free shuttle services for
is located on the western shores. The cascading the hotel guests if the booking comes through their
domes and four slender minarets of the Imperial reception. Entry €31.50.
Suleymaniye Mosque dominating the skyline. One
of Istanbul’s surviving mediaeval synagogues...and • Sultanahmet Hamamı, ☎ +90 212 513-7204, e-
trendiest houses in town that are now enjoying their mail: info@sultanahmethamami.com. Daily 07:00-
second or even third type of use. Highlight is the 23:59, no entry after 22:30. A few steps from Sul-
famous Chora the Byzantine marvel of mosaics and tanahmet tram station, the place is very much close
frescoes. to the main attractions at Sultanahmet. Of course
many of the visitors are tourist, however it isn’t
feeling too commercialize as the Cağaloğlu Bath
148.5.1 Hamams one (e.g. No souvenirs are given, no tourist shop).
There’s a women’s section and a mixed section. The
Most of Istanbul’s historical Turkish baths, known as place is nice, the hosting is kind, and the whole ex-
hamam and quite an inevitable part of any Istanbul experience is fun. But, if you're looking for a strong,
perience, are located in Old City around Sultanahmet. thorough and long massage – you might be disap-
pointed. Tips can be given in one box by the doors,
• Çemberlitaş Hamamı, ☎ +90 212-5112535, e- which reduce some of the “trading” filling. TRY40
mail: info@cemberlitashamami.com.tr. The Cem- for hamam only, TRY50 for hamam and massage
berlitas Bath is on Cemberlitas Square in the midst (by staff in hamam room), and TRY60 for the.
of some of Istanbul’s greatest monuments. It was
also built by architect Sinan in 1584. It has 2 sec- • Tarihi Şifa Hamamı, Sifa Hamami Sokak No. 24,
tions, female and male. Entry €18, TRY39 for self- ☎ +90 212 638-3849. Established 1777, this is one
service, TRY59 for Turkish massage, TRY99 for of the cheaper options. It is entirely marble through-
Turkish massage and oil massage). out and the fittings might well be the originals. It has
a mixed or separate female sections. Enjoy a good
• Cağaloğlu Hamamı, ☎ +90 212 522-2424, e-mail: scrub and clean, a massage and an apple tea which
info@cagalogluhamami.com.tr. The Cağaloğlu is all included in the general service. The staff’s En-
hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last glish is limited. TRY50 for a scrub and massage,
hamam to be built after a long period during the Ot- TRY80 for scrub, massage, and an oil massage.
toman Empire. It was constructed in İstanbul Em-
inönü. It is three blocks from the Hagia Sophia. It • Hurrem Sultan Hamam, ☎ +90 212 517-3535.
has separated sections. Popular and normally visited Daily 07:00-23:59. The Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan
by tourists. You can get a “service” which mean one Hamam in Istanbul was designed and built by Mi-
of the staff helps you get scrubbing, and the most ex- mar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect. It was built
pensive option contain scrubbing and massage. The at the request of Hurrem Sultan (Roxelana), the
payment is done before, but if choose not to take wife of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th
massage, don’t be surprise if one of the staff will se- century (1556-1557CE). It was built where the an-
cretly offer you one, letting you decide how much to cient public baths of Zeuxippus (100-200CE) used
add to his tip. It should be said that the atmosphere is to stand, between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia
very touristic, and everything has a price. Once you Sophia. The area is also particularly significant as
148.6. BUY 439
the site where the Temple of Zeus once stood. Aya- • Deli Kızın Yeri, ☎ +90 212 526-1251. 82
sofya Hurrem Sultan Hamam consists of the baths, a Halıcılar Çarşısı. Deli Kızın Yeri (The Crazy
restaurant and a café, all located in the gardens of the Lady’s Place) was founded by The Crazy
hamam. 35min: €70, 50min: €90, 75min: €100, Lady herself, an American who has retired in
90min: €165. Turkey, who specializes in creating flat, useful,
packable items using traditional Turkish mo-
tifs, handicrafts and fabrics. Items produced
148.6 Buy by local artists suiting the flavour of the shop
comprise the rest of their inventory. The se-
lection of items changes constantly, but gen-
erally includes items such as placemats, table-
cloths, purses, doorstops, plastic bag hold-
ers, napkin rings, tea cozies, Turkish Delight-
flavoured teddy bears and dolls, luggage tags,
aprons, pillows, and limited edition clothing.
• Deli Kızın Yeri Junior, 42 Halıcılar Çarşısı,
+90 224 757-4229. The Grand Bazaar’s first
and only children’s store, filled with Turkish
inspired toys and games for kids of all ages.
Your kids will love it!
• Can Antik (Art and Antiques), Cadircilar
Caddesi Lutfullah Sokak no 34/36, Beyazit (in
the Grand Bazaar), ☎ +90 212 512-5828. You
will find Ottoman and other antique metalware
The Grand Bazaar during Republic Day here - copper bowls, jugs, pots Ottoman silver,
furniture jewellery and big collection antique
Istanbul’s historical bazaars are located in Old City. textile dating back to Ottoman era.
• Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı). Istanbul’s grand • Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı also known as
old bazaar with an estimated 4400 shops lined along Spice Bazaar). in Eminönü is also a covered bazaar,
covered walkways. It is said to be the world’s oldest which is a lot smaller than Grand Bazaar, and as its
shopping mall, covers several blocks and features a name implies, houses herbalist and spice shops.
labyrinth of side streets to keep you lost for the bet-
ter part of a day. The shops are organized around • Rugs and kilims
their wares, e.g. the silver jewellers are clustered
together, the carpet shops are clustered elsewhere • Mevlana Rug Store, Torun sok. 1, Sultanah-
and the shoe shops are bunched together somewhere met, +90 212 517-1260 (fax:+90 212 517-
else. Parts of it now are rather touristy (most locals 7476) . Mevlana Rug store is the only store
don't shop there) and you're likely to pay a little more which is recommended by The New York
for your purchase than elsewhere but with the vast Times.
selection you'll find what you're looking for and it’s • Bazaar 55 Rug House, ☎ +90 212 6382289.
one of Istanbul’s character pieces. Akbiyik Cad. 55, Sultanahmet. The carpet
shop known to be most trust-worthy.
• Polisajci Brothers Antique Show, 37-39
Yaglikcilar Sokak, Ic Cebeci Han, +90 212 • Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery, ☎ +90 212 517-
526-1831. You will find Ottoman and other 6808. Kucuk Ayasofya Caddesi, 7 Tavukhane
antique metal ware - copper bowls, jugs, pots Sokak. Glorious museum-quality textiles, a
and the like - once used in hammams and feast for the eyes.
kitchens. • Best Carpet Gallery, ☎ +90 535 722-0175.
• Derviş, ☎ +90 212 514-4525. 33-35 Kese- Binbirdirek Caddesi No. 3/36. Buy online
ciler Sokak. Turko-Californian spa shop with Rugs and Kilims.
raw silk and cotton clothing made to last a long
time. • Chalcedony. A semi-precious gemstone named af-
ter the nearby town of Chalcedon.
• Chalabi, 6 Sandal Bedesten Sokak, +90 212
522-8171. Grand Bazaars’ oldest family-run • Chalcedony, ☎ +90 212 527-6376. 2 Aya-
antiques dealer offers Ottoman silver, furniture sofya Caferiye Sokak. One stop shop for raw
and jewellery from old Ottoman families, and rocks, smooth stones and finished jewellery of
other oriental treasures. the pale-blue, semiprecious chalcedony.
• You can buy tourist-kitsch souvenirs all around the side streets. But if you search some normal prices, it easy
city. A magnet with coloured picture of Blue to find some place on Peykhane street.
Mosque and Hagia Sofia will cost TRY2 each.
• Beydagi Restaurant, Klod Farer Cad. No.27/B
• Haggling over the price is the norm when shopping. (Go to the Hippodrome, walk west past the museum
Shopkeepers usually let you offer a price lower than of Islamic Art and the Oriental Cafe and take the
the retail price; once a price agreeable to both is met, street to the right. You will reach an older small
then the sale can be finalized. mosque and the restaurant is across the street. (It does
not have a Patio, ignore this restaurant as they have
inflated prices), ☎ (0212) 638 34 44. Chicken Shish
148.6.1 Mall for 10TL or Chicken Crepe for 8TL. The staff is
friendly and the food is great. 15 TL.
• Historia, Vatan Caddesi (Adnan Menderes Bulv.)
2, Fatih (roughly at the midway between 'Aksaray'
• Vivaldi Restaurant, Mustafa Kemalpasa Cad. No
and 'Emniyet-Fatih' stations of M1 metro line; public
52/A, Yenikapi (Take a tram to Laleli - buy some
bus stop 'İskenderpaşa' is right in front of the place),
leather shoes/bags! - and then stroll down towards
☎ +90 212 532-0202, fax: +90 212 531-1010, e-
the water on Ataturk Blv/Mustafa Kemal Cad. Look
mail: info@historia.com.tr. Recently opened His-
for the Efes Beer umbrellas), ☎ (0212) 458 68 27.
toria is the only shopping mall in the Old City (and
Definitely try the bitter wrap or mixed pide. Friendly
likely will be the only one, as large-scale new de-
staff who will insist on giving you free Turkish tea
velopment is restricted in most of this part of the
in this quiet little cafe situated in a non-tourist-trap
city), and is the place to go if you are looking into
area. meals under YTL 10.
something more modern and less touristy than in the
Covered Bazaar. Usual selections of garment, elec-
tronics, and furniture stores, a large supermarket, as • Doy-Doy Restaurant, Sifa Hamamı Sokak No: 13,
well as a bowling alley, fast food joints, and movie Sultanahmet, ☎ (0212) 517 15 88. An unassum-
theatre. While there, you may also want to check ing cafe spread out over three floors and a roof ter-
out Fenari İsa Mosque just next to Historia (across race with views over the Marmara Sea and the Blue
the narrow alley at the side of the mall), which is Mosque. A bit of a hidden gem, and well worth
a small red-brick Byzantine church from early era, the visit. Often recommended by locals and re-
which was renovated in 1970s and now serves as a viewed by Fodors. Serves a menu of simple kebabs,
mosque after staying derelict since a fire damaged chicken and lamb stews, and pide (Turkish pizza)
the building in 1918. baked in a wood-burning oven. A variety of mezes
are also available. Lunch specials include bean or
lentil soup. Soups, meatless pizzas, veggie kebabs
and salad are great options for vegetarians. Friendly
148.7 Eat service. Cheap. Open late. meals under YTL 10.
Restaurants in the eastern part of the Fatih area (Sul-

• Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu, Divany-
tanahmet) are mainly targeted at tourists, and charge
olu Cad. Hacı Tahsinbey Sok. Sultanahmet (about
much higher prices than those in places such as Galata. A
five meters down a side street just a bit west from
kebab can cost here TL8, TL10 or even higher (the real
the Sultanahmet tram stop), ☎ +90 212 528 62 90.
price is about TL4-5). The quality of most restaurants
Their specialty is pide, and at this they excel. The
aimed at tourists varies pretty much, so it’s well worth
other dishes are also good though. Prices are ordi-
looking for online reviews or following the recommenda-
nary for a quality pide place. Friendly staff. around
tions of a good guidebook when making your selection
10-15 TL for mains, 4 TL soup/salad, complemen-
(this also reduces your exposure to the aggressive touts
tary Turkish tea.
employed by many of the restaurants). If one wants not to
spend much money, it is worth to spend 10 minutes and
leave Sultanahmet neighbourhood to the North or West • Full-screen Galata Bridge Fish Sandwiches,
and have much cheaper meal. Galata Bridge (Lower Level). "Balik ekmek"! That’s
what you listen out for when you're heading down to
the lower level of the Bridge on the Eminonu side.
148.7.1 Budget Once a raucous tradition for the local fishermen to
sell their 'fish in bread' straight of the side of the
For budget meals it is advisable to avoid the restaurants boat—occupational health and safety policy banned
along the tram line and to the West and South from the the popular trade, though you can still find the deli-
Blue Mosque. For really budget places, where locals eat, cious morsels here! Wash it down with a fresh pickle
one should go to the Gedik Paşa street and look in the juice..
148.8. DRINK 441
• Tarihi Subaşı Lokantası, Çarşıkapı, Nuruos- • Asitane. At Edirnekapi. Asitane specializes in tra-
maniye Cad. No:48-2 (close to 'Nuruosmaniye' gate ditional Ottoman cuisine, based on meticulously re-
of Grand Bazaar), ☎ +90 212 522-47-62, fax: +90 searched recipes used in the royal palaces of the Ot-
212 511-62-19. Traditional Ottoman/Turkish cui- toman empire. The main theme of these recipes are
sine. A must go place. unique blends of meats and fruits. In spite of the
traditional nature of the menu, the restaurant décor
would not be out of place in London or New York.
148.7.2 Mid-range Pay special attention to the lamb dishes.
• Rumeli Cafe a.k.a Mozaik Cafe, Ticarethane

Sokak No:8 (near Divanyolu Caddesi, about one
block from the Basilica Cistern), 212 512 00 08. On 148.8 Drink
a relatively quiet street but close to all the attractions
of Sultanamet. Serves mostly traditional Ottoman
and Turkish dishes, with lots of lamb on the menu.
Staff are friendly and there are tables both indoors
and on the sidewalk. 35-55 YTL per person (main,
appetizer + one drink).
• Green Corner. Nice, lovely little open-air café just

down the road from the Basilica Cistern. Eat a
gözleme whilst lying down and smoking a Turkish
pipe.
• Palatium Cafe & Restaurant, Kutlugün Sok. 33

(Opposite the Four Seasons Hotel), ☎ +90 212 516
5132. While no exception no Sultanahmets gen-
eral trait of so-so food and high prices, the food is
Restaurants under Galata Bridge
not bad, and beers comes in ice cold glasses. They
have some comfy bean chair arrangements available
to lounge in, and backgammon games and Nargileh
available. Behind the restaurant the owners are • Cheers, Akbiyik Caddesi 20, in Sultanahmet, +90
funding the excavation of a Roman era palace at 5324096359. Daily, 10AM-2AM. Offers the
their own expense, which is both free and worth a cheapest beers in town to a crowd of travellers.
short look.
• The restaurants located on the lower level of the
• Amedros Cafe & Restaurant, Hoca Rüstem Sok
Galata Bridge which connects Old City with Galata
7, ☎ +90 212 522 83 56. The area around this
also double as beerhouses even if you have no inten-
restaurant is full of restaurants with very aggressive
tion of having something to eat. Open-air parts of
touts trying to lure you into having a seat, this one
these restaurants beside the bridge railings offer a
seems to be one of best of the options in the area
beautiful view of the mosque domes and towers and
immediately north of the park and the Sultanahment
the Topkapı Palace dominating the Old City’s sky-
tramway stop. The food is quite good, if not great,
line.
with mostly Ottoman cuisine and a small interna-
tional section on the menu. Good attentive waiters
and the restaurant should be commended for em-
ploying some of the least aggressive touts around.
148.8.1 Cafés
The street is quite cozy once you sit down and the
For something more typical, check out these cafés:
touts leave you alone.
• Cagaloglu Hamami Café, Prof. K.I. Gurkan Cad-

148.7.3 Splurge desi, Cagaloglu. A café located in a former ham-
mam, dating 1741, where you can listen to live tra-
• The Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, ditional Turkish music.
Sultanahmet-Eminönü, ☎ +90 212 638-8200. The
Four Seasons does a spectacular, but pricey, Sun- • Sark Kahvesi. ', Yaglikcilar Caddesi 134 (in the
day brunch featuring a range of Turkish and inter- Grand Bazaar). The most famous cafe in the market
national dishes (January 2005 price TRY70, 11.30- and a time warp into days gone by, full of traders
15:00). playing backgammon. Turkish coffee NTL 1.5.
148.9 Sleep 212 511 96 59, fax: +90 511 99 16, e-mail:
info@olimpiyathotel.com. Breakfast and all the
Accommodation in the peninsula is mostly around Sul- taxes included in price and free airport transfer
tanahmet. Cankurtaran, a neighbourhood just south of offered. Rooms include air-con, TV and mini-
Sultanahmet Square towards the coast of the Sea of Mar- bar, laundry, free wireless connection and internet.
mara, is one of the places where hotels/hostels cluster Starts at €40/50 for singles/doubles in high season.
most.
• Star Holiday Hotel, Divanyolu Street No:10 Sul-
tanahmet (right in front of the Blue Mosque), ☎ +90
148.9.1 Free 212 512 29 61, fax: +90 212 512 31 54, e-mail:
info@hotelstarholiday.com. Breakfast on a nice ter-
• Istanbul has a large community of CouchSurf-
race (right in front of the Blue Mosque) is included
ing.com users who will allow you to stay at their
in the price at this standard hotel. Rooms include
home free. It is customary to take your host out
air-con, TV and minibar. Starts at €40/50 for sin-
for a meal, and spend time sharing your culture with
gles/doubles in high season.
them.
• Deniz Konak Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi

148.9.2 Budget No:14 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 518 95 95, e-mail:
info@denizkonakhotel.com. Rooms with own bath-
• Asmali Hotel Sultanahmet, Küçük Ayasofya Cad- room, wireless internet access, cable TV, possibly
desi Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 638 3534, e-mail: sea view with balcony, minibar, free breakfast, 24 h
info@asmalihotel.com. Hotel Asmali consists of 15 reception, air-conditioning, terrace, laundry service.
rooms including a Suite Room with sea view and Double room 50 USD in high season (other rooms
jacuzzi also Standard and Deluxe Rooms which are available as well) as of 09/2009.
decorated with ancient Turkish style. Our rooms are
pretty wide and comfortable with double or sepa-
rated beds and sitting groups. Deluxe Double From • Istanbul Holiday Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya
€49-149. Caddesi No:28 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 512
29 61, fax: +90 212 512 31 54, e-mail:
• Serenity Hotel Istanbul, Kucukayasofya Mahallesi info@istanbulholidayhotel.com. Rooms with
Kasaposman Sokak No:27 Sultanahmet (Just next to en-suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access.
Blue Mosque), ☎ +90 212 638 2802, fax: +90 212 From € 30/40 for a single/double room.
638 2804, e-mail: info@serenityhotelistanbul.com.
Breakfast and all the taxes included in price. Rooms • Dongyang Hotel/Hostel Istanbul, Alemdar Cad.
include air-con, TV, laundry, free wireless con- Tramway Yolu Üzeri No: 7 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90
nection and internet. Starts at €40/60 for sin- 212 511 24 14, fax: +90 212 528 95 33, e-mail:
gles/doubles. info@dongyanghotelistanbul.com. Rooms with en-
suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access.
• Sarnic Premier Hotel, Somewhere in Sultanahmet, From € 10 for dorm rooms, from €40 for double
☎ +90 212 518-10-61, fax: +90 212 518-10-62, e- rooms.
mail: info@sarnicpremierhotel.com. Breakfast in-
cluded, linen included; luggage storrage, wi-fi in the
lobby, free internet in the rooms, air-con. No cur- • Stone Hotel Istanbul, Binbirdirek Mah.Sehit
few, 24 hour check in, airport pick up available.Very Mehmet pasa yokusu Sk.No 34 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90
new and good Starts at €30 for a single room; credit 212 638 1554, fax: +90 212 517 6330, e-mail:
cards accepted. info@stonehotelistanbul.com. Rooms with en-suite
bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access. From
• Big Orange Hotel, Akbıyık Değirmen Street No: € 45/55 for a single/double room.
3 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 518-10-61, fax: +90
212 518-10-62, e-mail: info@bigorangehotel.com. • Hotel Alp Guesthouse, Akbiyik street, adliye small
Breakfast included, linen included; luggage storrage, street, Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 517 7067, e-mail:
wi-fi in the lobby, free internet in the rooms, air-con. info@alpguesthouse.com. All the rooms have en-
No curfew, 24 hour check in, airport pick up avail- suite bathroom, TV, wired/wireless free internet
able. Starts at €30 for a single room; credit cards connection, mini-bar, safe box. There is open buffet
accepted. breakfast service on the terrace which has marmara
sea and Asian continent view. breakfast is included
• Olimpiyat Hotel, Ebusuud Caddesi Erdogan Sokak to room rates. Single €35-55, double €55-70, triple
no: 6 (Just next to Topkapi Palace), ☎ +90 €65-80, Family room €80-100.
148.9. SLEEP 443
• Grand Anka Hotel, ☎ +90 212 635 20 20, fax: +90 • Bahaus Guesthouse, Bayramfirin Sokak No:11,
212 534 18 55, e-mail: info@grandankahotel.com. Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 638 65 34, fax: +90 212
Istanbul Hotel Grand Anka Serves with hospitality, 517 66 97. Friendly staff with lots of useful objec-
greetingly respectfully from 1996. tive information to share. Dorm room around €12
including breakfast. Rooftop bar beer 5 YTL (can't
• Tulip Guesthouse, Akbiyik cad. Terbiyik Sokak bring anything except water to hostel). Free inter-
No:15/2, Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 517 65 09, e- net.
mail: info@tulipguesthouse.com. Very friendly and
helpful staff, two guys both university educated, • Mavi Guesthouse, ☎ +90 212 517 72 87, fax: +90
intelligent, well acknowledged about Turkish his- 212 516 58 78, e-mail: mavipans@hotmail.com.
tory and Middle East politics, always eager to let Kutlugün Sokak No:3, Sultanahmet. Breakfast is in-
you know about Istanbul’s cultural events and high- cluded in the price and this guesthouse is close to
lights. Kitchen has a great view to Marmara with the Four Seasons Hotel and many other backpack-
free coffee and Turkish tea. Dorm beds €10, eners. Staff can arrange transport to and from airport
suite rooms from €45. (approx 12 YTL). Internet is available for a nominal
fee or free with wireless LAN Laptop. Small (cosy)
• Hostel Orient, ☎ +90 212 517 9493, fax: +90 212 TV room etc. €10/11 for 6 bed/4 bed dorm rooms,
518 3894, e-mail: info@orienthostel.com. Yeni private rooms for €20-33.
Akbiyik Cad 13, Sultanahmet. Okay hostel in a
good location in Sultanahmet. Staff are friendly • Yeni Otel, at a side street 100 m from Sirkeci sta-
and willing to help. Cafe/bar upstairs, rooftop tion. Go towards Sultanahmet and turn into the first
lounge area overlooking the Golden Horn, Hagia street on the left. Shared basic bathrooms, hot wa-
Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the ter. Manager is friendly but has a limited knowledge
oldest mosque in Istanbul (it’s small and has one of English. 50 TL for a basic double.
minaret, just go down the street towards Topkapi).
Pretty cheap rooms, but the travel agency downstairs • Mavi Onur Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya Mahallesi, Ak-
is overpriced, as is the beer in the bar. Belly dancers sakal Sokak No:28, 34410 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90
two or three nights per week in the basement bar, but 212 4580690, fax: +90 212 4580692, e-mail:
expect competition for her affections from older lo- info@mavionurhotel.com. Small, family run guest-
cal businessmen. 18/20 YTL for 8 bed/4 bed dorm house. Offering six rooms that have their own pri-
rooms, private rooms 40-70 YTL. vate shower, toilet, hair-drying facilities and air con-
ditioning. The breakfast is included in the price and
• Istanbul Hostel, 35 Kutklu Gun Sokak, Sultanah- they have a rooftop terrace. from €11 for a dorm
met (Next to Blue Mosque and Four Season Ho- bed to €42 for a triple room (high season prices).
tel), ☎ +90 212 516 93 80. Check-in: 11AM,
check-out: 10-11AM. Six and eight bed dorms, • Hotel Nomade, Divanyolu Caddesi, Ticarethane
street-level tables, rooftop restaurant and lounge Sokak 15, Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 (212) 513
area with amazing views and mediocre food, base- 81 72, fax: +90 212 513 24 04, e-mail:
ment bar/cafeteria/patio, where free Turkish break- info@hotelnomade.com. Rooms with en-suite
fast is served every day. Free wireless and free in- bathrooms and air-con. € 80/100 for single/double
ternet at two aging computers in the lobby. Staff are rooms, breakfast included.
very helpful and friendly. Staff can arrange trans-
port to and from the airport, and the hostel has a
travel agency which can set you up with other hos- 148.9.3 Mid range
tels and trips in the country. Atmosphere is good.
Downstairs rooms may be noisy; the upstairs rooms • Hotel Prince, Nobethane Caddesi Kargili
share a single (working) shower (which doesn't get Sokak 5, Sirkeci, ☎ +90 212 513-2550, e-mail:
hot) in an unventilated restroom. no real common onlinesales@hotelprince.com. Breakfast is served
room. dorms 20 YTL. on the roof top restaurant with a great view of
Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, and the Bosphorus.
• Istanbul Hostel Sinbad. Kucuk Ayasofya Mh., Rates start at €75/100 for single/double in high
Demirci Resit Sokak, Sultanahmet. Offers budget season.
accommodations for backpackers. They offer dis-
counts for students and hostels’ card holders, to- • Tulip House, Katip Sinan Cami Sok. No:28 (close
gether with some other amenities as free breakfast. to Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet tram stop), ☎ +90 212
Sinbad has a total 22 rooms - 92 beds. Dorm rooms 458-8403. Beside everything required in a mid-
have six beds, only female dorm, single, double, class hotel such as open-buffet breakfast, Wi-Fi,
triple, quad rooms are available. clean rooms, bathrooms etc, Tulip House has very
large rooms with high ceilings and a perfect sea the main lobby. The hotel has a rooftop sitting area
view. Try to rent a room on the sea side with bal- with direct views of most of the major sites in Sul-
cony, for a perfect evening. The guys running the tanahmet - an incomparable vista as the moon rises
place are exceptionally helpful, especially Emrah on a clear evening. The comfortable rooms have
who has very large knowledge about Istanbul and all mod-cons, including Wi-Fi. The staff are atten-
Turkish history. tive, courteous and helpful. Highly recommended.
Rooms from €125 for a standard.
• Hotel Armagrandi Spina, Utangac Sok. 19,
34400 Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 638-1727, e- • Dersaadet Hotel, ☎ +90 212 458 07 60, fax: +90
mail: info@hotelspina.com. Beautifully renovated 212 518 49 18, e-mail: admin@hoteldersaadet.com.
boutique hotel that has excellent off-season deals Kapiağasi Sokak No:5, Sultanahmet (one block be-
(€60/night via hotels.com) and decent mid-range low Kucukayasofya Caddesi). Boutique hotel on a
prices during peak season. Smaller rooms great for quiet street 5-10 minute walk from the Blue Mosque
couples. Breakfast on terrace included, with amaz- and Ayasofya. Rooms are decorated in 19th century
ing view of Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. You may Ottoman-style and come with air-con, TV, mini-
see one or both from your room window, too. Eleva- bar and safe, and all guests can use the high-speed
tor, no frills minibar, free Wi-Fi, exceptional staff. internet/Wi-Fi in the lobby. The rooftop terrace
looks out over the Sea of Marmora and part of
• Armada Hotel, Ahirkapi Sok. 24, 34122 Cankur- the Blue Mosque. Room rate includes breakfast.
taran, Istanbul. Semimodern hotel. Free wireless. €95/105 for single/double in high season, suites are
Located in Sultanamet between the sea and the Blue €120 - 240 depending on time of year and room
Mosque. Working air-con, fridge. Own bathroom. (10% discount if paid in cash).
Restaurant at the top of the building with a nice
view of the sea and the Blue Mosque. Price via ho- • Hotel Niles Istanbul, ☎ +90 212 517 32 39, fax:
tels.com: €42 double room. +90 212 516 07 32, e-mail: info@hotelniles.com.
Dibekli Cami Sokak No:19, Beyazit. Another Ot-
• Sultanhan Hotel, ☎ +90 212 516-3232, fax: +90 toman mansion converted to a hotel, it is located five
212 516-5995, e-mail: info@hotelsultanhan.com. minutes from the Grand Bazaar. Rooms come with
Piyerloti Caddesi No:15/17 Sultanhamet. This five- air-con, TV, mini-bar and Wi-Fi, and there is high-
floor hotel features 40 guest rooms, all of which speed internet in the lobby. Complimentary break-
have Ottoman-style décor with patterned fabrics and fast is served in the rooftop terrace, which overlooks
chestnut furnishings. All are equipped with inter- the Sea of Marmora. €55/65 for single/double in
net connections, satellite television and minibars. high season (10% discount if paid in cash).
€190/230 for single/double in high season.
• Hotel Inter Istanbul (Budget rates on mid-range fa-
• Blue House Hotel (Mavi Ev), ☎ +90 212 638 cilities), ☎ (+90 212) 518 35 35, fax: (+90 212)
90 10/11/12/13/14/15/16, fax: +90 212 638-9017, 518 35 38, e-mail: info@hotelinteristanbul.com.
e-mail: info@bluehouse.com.tr. Dalbasti Sokak Mithatpasa Cad. Buyuk Haydar Efendi Sok. No:
No:14, Sultanahmet. Opened July 1997 and located 29 Beyazit. Away from the crowd and touts of
at the heart of old city centre, steps away from world Sultanahmet yet within walking distance (approx.
famous Blue Mosque. €120/140 for single/double 7–10 minutes). Located on a quiet street stone-
in high season. throw away from the Grand Bazaar, Beyazit tram
station and buses that goes to Taksim and other parts
• Empress Zoe, Adliye Sokak No:10 (Near Akbiyik of Istanbul (2-minute walk). Modern-style rooms,
Caddesi, Sultanahmet), ☎ +90 212 518-2504, fax: comfy beds, TV with English programs and news,
+90 212 518-5699, e-mail: info@emzoe.com. A wi fi connection in rooms and a free PC use at the
wonderful little hotel in a quiet street just off Sul- lobby, helpful staff that make-up rooms and replaces
tanahmet, with spartan but elegant rooms decorated towels daily. €35/40 single, €45/50 double, €55-
in Turkish style and beautiful views over the Hagia 60 triple, €65-80 family (winter/summer) inclusive
Sophia from the rooftop terrace. All mod cons in- of breakfast. 10% discount on cash payments and
cluding bathroom, air-con, safe. Rooms from €50 free airport-hotel pick-up (min. 3 days stay).
and suites from €100, including breakfast.
• Yigitalp Hotel Istanbul (Budget rates), Gençtürk
• Ibrahim Pasha, Terzihane Sok. No. 5, Adliye Cad. Çukur Çeşme Sok. No: 38 Şehzadebaşi,
Yani, Sultanahmet, ☎ +90 212 518-0394, fax: +90 (+90 212) 512 98 60 (Fax: (+90 212) 512 20 72,
212 518 4457, e-mail: contact@ibrahimpasha.com. sales@yigitalp.com) . Rooms with en-suite bath-
A lovely boutique hotel just steps away from the rooms, air-con, satellite TV, and free internet ac-
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. The room rates in- cess. From € 55/65/90 for single/double/triple
clude a full Turkish breakfast in the dining area off rooms.
148.9. SLEEP 445
• Erguvan Hotel Istanbul, ☎ +90 212 4582784, e- is located within walking distance of all the major
mail: info@erguvanhotel.com. Aksakal Cad. No:3 tourist attractions. There are 17 rooms, a traditional
Sultanahmet. Rooms with air-con, satellite TV. courtyard and a roof terrace bar. All rooms have
air-con, mini-bar, TV, wi-fi and a safe. Room rates
• Eski Konak Hotel Istanbul, ☎ +90 212 458 74 include breakfast. Room rates: single room €60,
23, e-mail: info@eskikonakhotel.com. Cankur- double €80, triple €120 and family €140 through-
taran Mahallesi Akbiyik Cad. No:44, Sultanahmet. out the year.
In the heart of historical Sultanahmet, one of Is-
tanbul’s newest hotels. Just a short walk to Hagia • Esans Hotel Old City Istanbul, ☎ +90 212
Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. 516 19 02, fax: +90 212 516 19 03, e-mail:
Friendly multilingual staff. 9 rooms. info@esanshotel.com. Ishakpasa Cd. Yenis-
arachane Sokak No:4, Sultanahmet Old City Is-
• Hotel Med Cezir, ☎ +90 212 517 59 35, e-mail: tanbul. Traditional Family-Run Unique hotel on a
info@hotelmedcezir.net. Tevkifhane Sok. No: 6 quiet street 3 minutes walk from Ayasofya.Rooms
Sultanahmet. Small hotel and restaurant located are decorated in 19th century Ottoman-style with
right beside the Four Seasons Hotel. Comfortable air-con, TV, mini-bar and safe, Wi-Fi in the
and well appointed guest rooms with or without a lobby.Complimentary International Phone Call and
private bathroom. Offering exceptional views of the selected essence to be placed in room. The rooftop
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, the terrace bar is terrace looks out over the Sea of Marmara and
the perfect place for a drink in the evening. 24 hour Princess Islands. Room rate includes breakfast.
room service is available. 10 rooms. €95/110 for single/double in high season, suites are
€120 - 190 depending on time of year and room
(5% discount if paid in cash and free airport trans-
• Garden House Istanbul (Rose Garden Suites), fer with 4 nights).
Şht. Mehmet Paşa Sk 1 (Tram T1 to Çem-
berlitaş or Sultanahmet), ☎ +90 212 517
9111-12, fax: +90 212 517 00 80, e-mail: 148.9.4 Splurge
garden@gardenhouseistanbul.com. This facility
very close to the Blue Mosque, but in a quite • Hotel Sultania, ☎ +90 212 528 08 06, fax: 90 212
neighboorhood both serves as a mid-range hotel, 511 99 16. Ebusuud caddesi Mehmet Murat Sokak
and exclusive suites branded as 'Rose Garden No: 4 Sirkeci Sultanahmet. A new hotel opened
Suites’. The Hotel has nicely furnished, if some- in 2010 with 42 unique rooms which all the rooms
what small rooms. The main draw is the courtyard are dedicated to the famous sultan wives. This is a
which has been turned into a nice garden and the concept hotel offering boutique hotel services and
rooftop terrace. The on-site restaurant offers a 20% amenities. The room rates starts at 120 € as a dis-
discount for guests. The rates are from €49-219 counted opening year rate.
All year around.
• Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, ☎
• Hotel Tashkonak, ☎ (+90 212) 518 28 +90 212 638 82 00, fax: 90 212 638 82 10. Tevk-
82, fax: (+90 212) 638 84 91, e-mail: ifhane Sokak No:1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü. A con-
info@hoteltashkonak.com. Kucuk Ayasofya verted prison in the historic Sultanahmet district.
Cad. Tomurcuk Sokak 5 Sultanahmet. This quaint Offers stunning views of the Haghia Sophia, but no
hotel offers great rooms, an exceptionally friendly pool. Standard rooms start around $420.
staff and some of the best views of the Sea of
Marmara anywhere in Sultanahmet. They also • Celal Aga Konagi Hotel at Beyazit, Sehzade-
have free wi-fi, TV with English channels and a basi, ☎ +90 212 519 09 09, fax: 90 212 514 09
complimentary breakfast buffet every morning. 09. Balabanaga Mah. Sehzadebasi Caddesi No:
Prices range from €50 for a single room up to 5/7, Sehzadebasi-Eminönü. With a free spa and
€165 for a family room. 8% discount if paying pool facilities and free wireless internet, Celal Aga
with cash and free airport pickup is available. Konagi Hotel provides luxurious accommodation in
the heart of Istanbul. 5-minute walk away and the
• Hotel Sultan Hill, ☎ +90 212 5183293, e-mail: Grand Bazaar and Blue Mosque is just a 20-minute
info@hotelsultanhill.com. Tavukhane sok. No: walk away. Standard rooms start around $350.
17-19-21 Sultanahmet. The hotel has been com-
pletely restored to resemble the original 18th cen- • Hotel Prince, Nobethane Caddesi Kargili, Sok.
tury Ottoman house previously on the site. The No: 5 Sirkeci, i Istanbul Turkey, ☎ +90 (212)
panoramic view from the terrace is stunning with 513 25 50, fax: +90 (212) 522 43 59, e-mail:
views of the sea and the Blue Mosque. The hotel info@hotelprince.com. A 4 Star Hotel offering 127
modernly decorated rooms for business and leisure authorities in any way. If you choose to engage in
travellers. such activity, keep in mind that the (usually Eastern
European and Central Asian) women you will en-
• Sirkeci Konak Hotel, Taya Hatun Sokak 5, Sirkeci, counter are more often than not involuntarily forced
☎ +90 212 528 43 44, fax: +90 212 528 44 55, into prostitution to “pay off” the cost of their trip to
e-mail: info@sirkecikonak.com. A charming hotel Istanbul (where they were hoping to get decent jobs)
which offers rooms with air-con, satellite TV, free and had their passports seized by their “boss”. 24-hr
wireless internet connection. While listed here as national hotline phone # 157, with operators speak-
a 'splurge', the room prices are generally similar to ing in English, Russian, and Romanian in addition
many mid-range hotels. The New York Times called to Turkish is where you can report such incidents to
it “a reasonable option” getting “all As for effort and bring the victims to safety.
implementation”. Guests are served a complimen-
tary breakfast. • In Eminönü's crowded underground passages (and
in the rest of Eminönü, in general), be extremely
wary of pickpockets, especially when climbing up
and down the stairs.
148.10 Connect
Istanbul Police Department has a “tourism police” of-
148.10.1 Internet fice with multilingual staff in Sultanahmet, just across the
street from Hagia Sophia, where you can report passport
All of Sultanahmet Park (between Hagia Sophia and Blue loss or any other problems.
Mosque) is a wifi hotspot free of charge.
There are also a couple of internet cafes along the tram
line between Sultanahmet and Gülhane. 148.12 Cope
148.12.1 Laundry
148.11 Stay safe
• Star Laundry, Yeni Akbıyık Cad. 18, Sultanah-
The focal point of the peninsula for travellers, Sultanah- met, ☎ +90 212 638-2302. Laundry service.
met Square, is safe and policed during day and night, TRY4/kg (c. €2/kg).
so by staying within the realms of common sense, you
shouldn't encounter problems there. However, there are
some issues to keep in mind for the rest of the old city:
• The dilapidated, though picturesque, neighbour-

hoods around Süleymaniye, Zeyrek, the banks of
Golden Horn west of Atatürk Boulevard (i.e., neigh-
bourhoods of Balat, Fener, Ayvansaray), along the
old city walls, and along the Marmara coast (espe-
cially Kumkapı west to Yedikule) are home to the
impoverished recent immigrants to the city. While
this doesn't automatically translate to these neigh-
bourhoods being dangerous, you may feel more
comfortable if you avoid them (especially narrow
back alleys) during the evening and night. Around
the main tourist sights, and the main streets lead-
ing to them, in these neighbourhoods, such as Sü-
leymaniye Mosque or the taverns at Kumkapı, are
perfectly safe, though.
• Scams involving extremely overpriced drinks are
common at nightclubs around Aksaray, which are
best avoided completely. These are quite dangerous
with the possible involvement of organized crime.
See the "stay safe" section of main Istanbul article
for more details on this.
• Around Aksaray and Laleli, there are a number of
illegal brothels which are not controlled by health
Chapter 149
Istanbul/Western Suburbs
Western Suburbs are a collection of Istanbul neighbor- 149.2.2 By train

hoods, lying west of the city walls of old city. Bakırköy
is the main center of this part of the city. A suburban train (banliyö treni) line connects the
coastal part of this district (including Bakırköy and
Yeşilköy) with Sirkeci and with numerous other stations
located in old city.
149.1 Understand Trains from destinations in Europe or European Turkey
don’t call at any of the stations located within this district.
If you are arriving by a long-distance train, best way to get
The western suburbs of Istanbul are mostly residential ar-
to these suburbs is to get off the (long-distance) train at
eas and range from multi-million villas in Florya on the
Sirkeci station (last station) and then, to catch a suburban
coast of Marmara Sea to slums of Bağcılar in the north.
train there to your final destination.
In general, the districts on the Marmara coast are upscale,
while the districts located farther north inland are full of
buildings with no respect to building codes, and minimal
aesthetic expectations (slum, in short). 149.2.3 By metro/tram
After starting in Aksaray and running underground

through the old city, southern metro line (M1) leaves the
149.2 Get in old city in Ulubatlı-Topkapı station and enters the West-
ern Suburbs. It runs towards northwest until the main
bus station (otogar) in Esenler, where the line curves to-
These suburbs are actually main ports of entry into the wards south to meet the tram line which leaves old city in
city, as both the major airport and the main bus station underground Topkapı station by the city walls. After the
(otogar) of the city is located in this district. Those trav- tram/metro intersection in Zeytinburnu, the metro line
elling on their own vehicles also make it through this dis- starts running towards west and after passing through a
trict first on the way to central Istanbul, when approaching couple of brief underground sections and the stations of
from west. Bakırköy (which actually is located 3 km north of down-
town Bakırköy), Ataköy, and Yenibosna among others, it
eventually reaches its terminus at Atatürk International
Airport (station: Havalimanı).
149.2.1 By air
Istanbul’s primary airport, Atatürk International (IST), 149.2.4 By dolmuş

is located near Yeşilköy, within this district. For more
detailed information about how to get to the city center
Dolmuşes operate on the following lines, almost 24 hours
from the airport, see the respective section of main Is-
a day:
tanbul article. Please note, while the nearest neighbor-
hood to the airport is Yeşilköy, it is not possible to walk
or otherwise easily get to the airport from Yeşilköy, so it • Taksim-Bakırköy
is important not to catch a bus or a train with a stop in
‘Yeşilköy’ while in need of getting to the airport. Always
look for the dedicated ‘Airport’ (Havaalanı/Havalimanı) • Taksim-Ataköy
stop/station. The instructions on the main Istanbul article
are correct, though. • Taksim-Yeşilköy
447
448 CHAPTER 149. ISTANBUL/WESTERN SUBURBS
149.2.5 By bus • Turkuazoo, Forum İstanbul no:3, Kocatepe (inside

Forum İstanbul shopping mall; metro: Kartaltepe-
As anywhere else in Istanbul, there is a vast number of Kocatepe station on southern (Aksaray-Airport)
bus lines connecting this district with the rest of the city. metro line), ☎ +90 212 640-27-40. M-F 10AM-
The numbers of most useful lines are as follows: 6PM, S-Su 10AM-7PM. One of those typical huge
aquariums where you walk through transparent tun-
• 71T Taksim-Ataköy (via Aksaray in old city and a nels underwater. 25 TL, students: 18 TL.
stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)
• Yeşilköy (west of Bakırköy). A neighbourhood
• 72T Taksim-Yeşilköy (via Aksaray in old city and a
lying on the coast of Marmara Sea, Yeşilköy, or
stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)
St. Stephen (Agios Stephanos) as called in ancient
• 81 Eminönü-Yeşilköy (via the avenue located di- times, still partly retains more of a town atmosphere
rectly on the coast) with its wooden mansions, churches, and a long ver-
dant park lying along the beach - perfect to take
• 94A Beyazıt-Bakırköy
a walk. (Buses: 72T from Taksim and Bakırköy,
81 from Eminönü; dolmuşes from Taksim; suburban
Also very long, hybrid buses called Metrobüs which have
train from Sirkeci and Bakırköy)
their right-of-way ply through a route in the middle of the
major highway heading west, in the north of Bakırköy.
They depart from Mecidiyeköy and cut travel time dra- 149.3.1 Büyükçekmece
matically.
On a peninsula between the Sea of Marmara and the Lake
Büyükçekmece (more like a lagoon, though, with a nar-
149.2.6 By boat
row opening to the sea), Büyükçekmece was once a rural
setting, then a quick escape for sea, sun & fun for Istan-
Fast ferries from places in the Asian Side, or occasion-
bulites, and is now practically a suburb on the western
ally from Eminönü arrive at Bakırköy pier.
fringes of the ever-expanding urban sprawl of Istanbul.
If you have a couple hours to spare, the small and well
landscaped Kültür Park on the lakefront, which unex-
149.3 See pectedly has several historic sights, is quite worth the trip
there (you may need to set aside a couple hours more
for the transport, though, depending on where you start
from).
The biggest attraction here is the 636-metre long stone
bridge, built in the 16th century, the era of Suleiman
the Magnicifent. With its four humps and 28 arches, it
crosses the channel system between the lake (the main
body of which is now behind the dyke to the north of
the bridge) and the sea, connecting with three small is-
lands along its way. Make sure you've walked the entire
structure, since the lonely western end, adjacent to va-
cant lots in an industrial zone, is much more atmospheric.
The eastwards walk along the bridge is also more attrac-
tive, since you will have the view of the tall TV tower on
the hill in front of you. In winter, you'll have the bridge
A wooden mansion in Yeşilköy almost only to yourself and your footsteps on the lichen
covered ancient stones, but, as both sides of the bridge
• Aviation Museum (Havacılık Müzesi), Yeşilköy are open water, the wind can be quite strong, so dress ap-
(north of downtown Yeşilköy, close to 'Yeşilköy' sta- propriately.
tion on suburban train line), ☎ +90 212 663-24-90, Just facing the eastern end of the bridge at the park is
e-mail: havacilikmuzesi@hho.edu.tr. W-Su 9AM- a pillbox dating back to the World War II, with its em-
5PM. A military-based museum with various war- brasure directly aiming at the bridge. This is a part of
planes, helicopters, and weapons used by Turk- a series of military installations along the rolling hills be-
ish Air Force, and also civilian air transport and tween the Lakes Büyükçekmece and Terkos—which have
many samples of Turkish aeronautics history, start- always been the last major defence line of Istanbul against
ing from Ottoman era are among the exhibition. the potential invaders from the west—collectively named
3.50 TL (there is a further fee of 6 TL to take pho- the Çakmak Line, after the then-chief of the general staff.
tos). The pillbox is now decorated with colourful bird and fish
149.4. DO 449
illustrations on the outside, but the inside is not open to 149.4 Do

the public.
Further from the bridge is the Lead Inn (Kurşunlu Han;
its roof was originally covered with lead), the last cara-
149.5 Buy
vanserai on the trade route to Istanbul from Europe. It
has been renovated and now operates as a cultural centre • Galleria, Ataköy (on the coast avenue. 15-20 min
run by the town council of Büyükçekmece. Check out if walk from Bakırköy), ☎ +90 212 559 95 60. First
there is an exhibition at the time of your visit so you can modern shopping mall of Turkey, opened in 1980s.
take a peek inside, especially the stately wooden structure
that carries the roof. • Carousel, Halit Ziya Uşaklığil Cad. 1, Bakırköy (in
Across the narrow alley from the caravanserai is the downtown Bakırköy), ☎ +90 212 570 84 34, fax:
mosque named after Sokollu Mehmed Pasha, the Ot- +90 212 583 66 76, e-mail: info@carousel.com.tr.
toman grand-vizier of the 16th century. What is most Shopping mall in Bakırköy.
interesting about the mosque is its streetside minaret, ar-
tistically carved out of a single piece of rock. The infor- • Olivium Outlet Center, Prof. Dr. Muammer Ak-
mation sign in front of it says there is another such minaret soy Cad. No: 1/1,
in Egypt, but does not name which.
On the outer walls of the mosque yard facing the park is Zeytinburnu (Bus lines: 93 from Eminönü, 93C from
a large fountain named after the Sultan Suleiman, which Beyazıt, 93M from Mecidiyeköy, 93T from Taksim. Get
should be providing water to the thirsty travellers that had off at 'Adliye' stop.), ☎ +90 212 547 74 53, fax: +90 212
crossed the bridge. 582 06 26, e-mail: info@olivium.com. An outlet center.
All over the park is littered by numerous modern sculp-
tures, of including Sinan, the architect of the bridge, • Penkid, Haznedar (Haznedar Mh. Marmara Cd.
mosque, and the caravanserai, Suleiman the Magnicifent, Altıntaş Sk. 15/C Güngören İSTANBUL), ☎ +90 212
and various Turkish musicians, poets, and folk heroes. 641 60 77. Hardwares
There is also a large modern amphitheatre well mingled
with the surroundings, where the local summer festival is
held, on the lakeside end of the park. On the landside
behind the amphitheatre is an old bathhouse, still in op- 149.6 Eat
eration.
Numerous cafes surround the park, where you can grab 149.6.1 Budget
a quick snack and drink. A number of fish restaurants
can also be found along the channel that links the lake 149.6.2 Mid-range
with the sea.
Out of the park, the road leads into the downtown 149.6.3 Splurge
Büyükçekmece, which is not ugly, but also nothing of
especial note. Southwest of Büyükçekmece is the for- • Beyti Restaurant, Orman sokak No:8, Florya, ☎
mer Greek fishermen village of Mimarsinan. While this +90 212 663 29 90, fax: +90 212 663 29 95, e-mail:
may sound promising, it is nowadays an untidy collection beyti@beyti.com. Tue-Sun. Simply, one of the best
of low income housing dominated by the cement plant restaurants in Istanbul, favoured by diners thanks to
near the western end of the bridge, and, save for a few its delicious meat in the 45’s at Küçükçekmece, in
fish restaurants, a couple of stone-built warehouses, and a a pleasant environment, is like a monument of tra-
renovated wooden house on its back alleys, it has no sto- dition remembered by people at every age. It has
ries left to tell from the days it was called Kallikratia, so an honourable and respectable level on Turkish and
you can simply skip here. international press. From 50 - 150 TL per person.
Many buses departing from the stops next to the Yeni-
bosna station of the M1 line (Aksaray-Airport), as well • Yüksel Balık Lokantası, Liman Sokak No:3,
as most minibuses from the terminal station of the Yeşilköy, ☎ +90 212 663 97 42. Great seafood.
Metrobüs BRT system do stop at the highway crossing They can give great advice on what is the best fish
through Büyükçekmece, from which the Kültür Park is for the season and other dishes in general. Around
an easy 10-minute walk away. Frequent buses continue US$ 50 per person.
on to Silivri in the west, from where you can catch con-
necting buses to destinations in Thrace.
149.7 Drink
450 CHAPTER 149. ISTANBUL/WESTERN SUBURBS
149.8 Sleep 149.9 Stay safe
Accommodation in this district are mostly upscale and There are some sections of waterfront park between
located around the airport. Bakırköy and old city walls, where you may feel un-
comfortable due to the homeless people and inhalant
abusers—best avoided at night.
• Airport Hotel, Atatürk Airport International Ter-
minal (in the airport), ☎ +90 212 425 40 30.
149.10 Connect
• Çınar Hotel, Şevketiye Mah. Fener Mevkii,
Yeşilköy, ☎ +90 212 663-29-00, fax: +90 212 663-
29-21, e-mail: reservation@cinarhotel.com.tr. 5-
star hotel with indoor and outdoor swimming pools
located on the waterfront of Yeşilköy, close to the
airport. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con,
balcony, internet connection, safebox, and cable
TV.
• Radisson SAS Conference and Airport Hotel, E-

5 Karayolu, Sefaköy, ☎ +90 212 425 73 73. 5-star
hotel located close to the airport. Free airport shut-
tles are provided.
149.8.1 Caravan park
With the closure of relatively central Ataköy caravan

park, the only place where you can tow your caravan in
the city is now located in Selimpaşa, officially a village
until recently, though given that there is no open fields in
between it is practically a suburb of the rapidly expanding
city. However, it is still a good 40 km away from central
parts of the city but fortunately there are 6-lane highways
and motorways connecting it to central Istanbul, as well
as fairly frequent public buses (though the actual cara-
van park is located a little away from public bus lines), so
transportation won't be a problem.
• Istanbul Mocamp, Selimpaşa (quit the motorway

(TEM/E80/O-3) in 'Selimpaşa' exit, and then follow
'Ortaköy' signs; or if on the coastal highway of D100,
make the sharp U-turn towards Ortaköy as soon as
entering Selimpaşa; after about driving 200 mt on the
road to Ortaköy, turn right towards Ovayenice im-
mediately in front of those five identical villas; after
about driving 4 km on the road to Ovayenice, take the
right turn towards Poyraz Çiftliği (there is a sign in-
dicating the road), Mocamp is located 800 mt ahead
on the left on this road), ☎ +90 212 710-11-25, +90-
533-564-60-30 (mobile), fax: + 90 212 710-11-25,
e-mail: aip@istanbulmocamp.com. Offers hot and
cold water, flush toilets, showers, kitchen, electric-
ity hook-up, laundry, swimming pool, children play-
ground, cafe, and pay phones in a setting with a dis-
tant sea view. Adults €4 each, no credit cards ac-
cepted.
Chapter 150
Southern Marmara
Southern Marmara (Turkish: Güney Marmara) is the 150.3 Other destinations

southern part of Marmara Region, Turkey.
• Troy — ruins of what legendary Trojan War
was fought for, complete with its (re-constructed)
150.1 Regions wooden horse
• Mt. Uludağ — highest mountain of northwestern

Turkey, now a national park and wintersports resort
150.2 Cities
• Armutlu — resort on the coast of the Gulf of Gem- 150.3.1 Islands
lik, with some thermal springs
• Bozcaada — pleasant island with attractive architec-
• Balıkesir — inland city, on the highway between ture and streetscape, and a citadel
Bursa and Izmir and the railway between Bandırma
and Izmir • Marmara Islands — archipelago in the middle of the
Sea of Marmara
• Bandırma — a transportation hub with fast ferry
• Avşa — sea&sun island mostly frequented by
links to Istanbul and train services to Izmir via in-
mid-class families
terior Southern Marmara
• Bursa — one of the largest cities of the country cur- 150.3.2 Bird Paradise National Park
rently, the first Ottoman capital with lots of history
to see Bird Paradise National Park (Kuş Cenneti Milli Parkı)
is one of the earliest national parks of Turkey, surround-
• Çanakkale — city on the bank of Dardanelles, a
ing Lake Kuş (Turkish: Kuş Gölü, lit. “bird lake”). It’s
regional hub for southwestern Marmara (Troad) as
an important stop-over and final destination for migra-
Troy, Gallipoli, Bozcaada are a short hop away
tory birds, which migrate to warmer places south in win-
• Erdek — seaside family-resort ter. There are 239 species inhabiting the area during
summer, totalling about 3,000,000 individual birds, al-
• Gemlik — town on the tip of the beautiful Gulf of though whole area is only 64 hectares, tiny in world stan-
Gemlik, surrounded by hills covered by olive groves dards. What makes the area so popular with the birds is its
ecosystem: at the end of winter, with the level rise of the
• Geyikli & Dalyan — the mainland harbour for the water of the lake (which is related to the rising streams,
ferries to the island of Bozcaada, and the nearest vil- which in turn are related with the dissolving of snowcover
lage to the ruins of Alexandria Troas up in the mountains), a small willow grove and reed beds
at the northwest of the lake submerge underwater, mak-
• Gönen — town most noted for its thermal springs ing it a perfect area to nest, and for the youngs to hatch
and grow.
• Kestel — an industrial suburb of Bursa, with a small Bird Paradise National Park has been awarded with Class
medieval castle A European Diploma by the European Council for four
times since 1976, because of its effective and successful
• Kumla — village near Gemlik
protection of the wildlife.
• Sındırgı — off-the-beaten inland town noted for the Detailed information about the birds, and the park in gen-
local rugs and kilims eral, is provided in the museum and the administrative
451
452 CHAPTER 150. SOUTHERN MARMARA
building inside the park. The best months for bird watch- however drivers with some time to spare may prefer
ing are between March and July, and September and Oc- its narrower, and less travelled parallel running along
tober, roughly corresponding to the migration period of the coast. D575/E887 in the east, on the other hand,
the birds. There is a watchtower that commands a wide connects Bursa with Istanbul and İzmit in the north.
area for viewing. Scientific research in the park requires
permission from the park directorate.
There are no facilities for food or accommodation within 150.7 Get around
the park. The nearest community to the park is the village
of Sigirciatik. Bandirma is the nearest big-enough city. The highway D200 (which is assigned the European route
Park lies 20km southwest of Bandirma, and around 50km number E90), starting from Çanakkale and then passing
north of Balikesir. It is easily accessible via Bandirma- by the regional centres of Bandırma and Bursa, and then
Balikesir highway. leaving the region towards east is the backbone of trans-
portation in the region.
150.4 Understand
150.8 See
Southern Marmara occupies a long shoreline which is the
southern coast of the Sea of Marmara, Marmara Islands 150.8.1 Itineraries
off the coast, and some places more inland. It’s bordered
by Eastern Marmara to northeast and east, Central Ana- • Along the Troad Coast — an itinerary connecting
tolia to southeast, Northern Aegean to south, and Eastern Çanakkale with Assos in Northern Aegean via a
Thrace to northwest and north, across the Sea of Mar- number of historical sites along the coast
mara and the Dardanelles Strait. In addition to the Mar-
mara coast, the region also has a shore on the Aegean Sea
to the west. 150.9 Do
In ancient times, eastern two-thirds of Southern Mar-
mara, roughly between Bursa and Balıkesir was known All of Southern Marmara, from Kestanbol near Troy in
as Mysia, while the western one-third, a peninsula to- the west to Çekirge in Bursa in the east, is dotted with hot
day better known as Biga Yarımadası in Turkish, between springs (kaplıca).
Dardanelles, Aegean Sea, and the Gulf of Edremit, was
known as Troad, i.e. “the plains behind Troy".
Mt. Uludağ, a national park and a wintersports resort, 150.10 Eat
with its summit at about 2,500 mt above the sea level, is
the highest mountain in all of northwestern Turkey, and
is within this region.
150.11 Drink
150.12 Stay safe

150.5 Talk
150.13 Go next
150.6 Get in
• The only rail connection to the region is from Izmir,
where trains depart for Balıkesir and Bandırma.
• From Istanbul on the northern coast of Marmara,
there are lots of fast ferry services to towns along
the southern coast, such as Armutlu, Güzelyalı
close to Bursa, Mudanya, and Bandırma. Marmara
Islands are also served by ferries from Tekirdağ
across Marmara. There are also very frequent ferry
links between Çanakkale and towns on the north-
ern/European banks of Dardanelles, such as Eceabat
and Gelibolu.
• The highway numbered D550/E87 connects the re-
gion with Northern Aegean and Izmir further south,
Chapter 151
Çanakkale
151.2 Get in
151.2.1 By bus
There are buses from Istanbul at any time, day or

night. Just go to Istanbul’s otogar, and look for
'Çanakkale' signs on the windowpanes of bus company
offices. It takes five and a half to six hours to get
from Istanbul to Çanakkale. Kamil Koç (, İstanbul
Otogar, Bayrampaşa-Esenler, ☎ 444-0-562 (non-prefixed
country-wide except cell-phones from which you should
Çanakkale fortress dial +90 212 444-0-562); +90 212 658-20-00, e-mail:
kamilkoc@kamilkoc.com.tr. ) is one of the bus compa-
Çanakkale (pronounced chaa-nak-kaa-leh) is a city in nies transporting passengers for 50 TL pp between Istan-
the Marmara Region of Turkey bul and Çanakkale. Truva Turizm (, İstanbul Otogar no:
137, Bayrampaşa-Esenler, ☎ +90 212 658-33-86, fax:
+90 212 658-33-89, e-mail: iletisim@truvaturizm.com.
) covers the same route for 45 TL pp (might be a few liras
151.1 Understand cheaper if the ticket is bought online through their web-
site, but you will need Turkish language skills for that).
The busy Çanakkale bus station also has several daily con-
The city is on the southern/Asian bank of Dardanelles nections with most major Turkish destinations, such as
Strait (Turkish: Çanakkale Boğazı), which links Aegean Edirne and Izmir.
Sea with the Sea of Marmara while separating Europe
from Asia. Most buses drop their passengers off just next to
ferry harbour—which is conveniently located in the city
centre—after crossing the Straits by ferry.
151.1.1 History
The city was called “Hellespontos” or “Dardanelles” in

ancient times, and there has been evidence of a settlement
in the Canakkale area since B.C. 3000. As the city is on 151.2.2 By car
the Dardanelles/Canakkale Strait, one of the two major
water passages connecting the Mediterranean and Black
Sea, the area is rich in history and culture. The site of the Çanakkale is linked to north, east, and south by well-
historical city of Troy is close to Canakkale. paved highways numbered E87/E90/D550, E90/D200,
During World War I, Canakkale and the Canakkale Strait and E87/D550 respectively. However, as there is no
was the stage of a year-long battle between the United bridge crossing the Straits of Dardanelles yet, you will
Kingdom, France and the Ottoman Empire. From April have to take either Gelibolu–Lapseki, Gelibolu–Çardak,
1915 to January 1916, a joint British and French opera- Eceabat–Çanakkale or Kilitbahir–Çanakkale ferry cross-
tion was mounted to capture the Ottoman capital of Con- ings when arriving from north.
stantinople (now Istanbul). The attempt failed, but not Çanakkale is 320 km from Istanbul, 325 km from Izmir,
without heavy casualties on both sides. and 653 km from Ankara.
453
454 CHAPTER 151. ÇANAKKALE
151.2.3 By boat
Of the possibilities to cross the straits, the 24-hr Eceabat–
Çanakkale ferry line, with 20-min intervals during busy
morning to midnight hours, is likely to be the most con-
venient choice to get to the city from European mainland.
It costs 2 TL for foot passengers, and 20 TL for cars (flat
fare, i.e. not dependent on how many people are occupy-
ing the car).
Passengers from Istanbul must be aware that, under bad
weather conditions, the sea-traffic in the strait is limited or
cancelled, and crossing the strait may become impossible.
151.2.4 By plane
Turkish Airlines has flights from Istanbul three days a
week.
151.3 Get around

Most of the places in Çanakkale are in walking distance.
There is a Tourist Information office several meters from
ferryboat station (on the right if you are coming from the Trojan Horse used in the film Troy (2004)
ferry). You can pick up a free tourist map of Çanakkale
and the surrounding areas. They also have schedules of • Trojan Horse (2 minute walk east of the ferry har-
the minibuses to Troy and ferries to Bozcaada. bour, on the waterfront). The one that was used in
the movie Troy was donated to the city. free.
151.4 See
151.5 Do
• Archaeological Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi), İzmir
Caddesi (on the highway to Izmir, about 30 min
away from the ferry harbour on foot. Minibuses 151.6 Buy
are also available), ☎ +90 286 217-65-65, fax: +90
286 217-11-05. Tu-Su 8:30AM-12:30PM 1:30PM-
5:30PM. Artifacts excavated from archaeological 151.7 Eat
sites in the countryside surrounding Çanakkale,
mostly amphorae and pottery, is among the exhib- One thing not to miss while in Çanakkale is bomba, which
ited in this museum. is the usual döner in half a bread plus an omelette added
in. There are lots of buffets making it in the cluster of
• Korfmann Library, Fevzipaşa Mahallesi, Tifli shops located just across the street from ferry harbor. To-
Sokak 16, ☎ +90 286 213-72-12, fax: +90 286 213- tally local, so don't expect to find it in anywhere else.
58-56, e-mail: info@troiavakfi.com.
• Restaurant Damak Tadi, Yali Cad. 20, 17000
• Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi), Fevzipaşa Ma- Canakkale. small place, tasty food. Close to the
hallesi, Çimenlik Sokak (on the waterfront, just west justice building and the Naval Musesum.
of ferry harbour), ☎ +90 286 213-17-30, fax: +90
286 212-77-30. Tu-W F-Su 9AM-noon 1PM-5PM.
The museum positioned around (and including) the • Peynir Helvasi. a special dessert made of cheese,
Çimenlik Castle (Çimenlik Kalesi, also known as yolk, semolina and sugar. Husmenoglu is a patis-
Kale-i Sultaniye) which dates back to 1461. A serie famous with that dessert
replica of a minelayer named Nusret that was em-
ployed in the naval battle of Dardanelles and photos
taken during the period is among the exhibition of 151.8 Drink
the museum.
151.11. GO NEXT 455
151.9 Sleep • Gallipoli is on the opposite banks of Dardanelles

Strait. Take a tour with Crowded House Hotel -
they will meet you as you diemberk on the ferry in
151.9.1 Budget
Eceabat.
• Anafartalar Hotel , İskele Meydanı 17100. Tel:+90
286 217-4454 • Kilitbahir, another village just opposite the city
across Dardanelles on the Gallipoli Peninsula, is
• Anzac Hotel known for its extremely well preserved castle (that
one which is the most obvious landmark seen from
• Anzac House , Cumhuriyet Meydanı N:61 17100. the city when illimunated at night). The village
Tel:+90 286 213-5969 has very frequent ferry services (by private, smaller-
sized boats) from Çanakkale, which depart from
• Otel Efes, Fetvane Sokak 5, ☎ +90 285 217 3256. near Naval Museum and is a convenient point for
Small, clean and friendly hotel close to the ferry ter- visits onward to the southern, and decidedly less vis-
minal. The owner has hosted the hotel over 20 years, ited WWI monuments of Gallipoli, such as Cape
all by herself! 20 ytl. Helles.
151.9.2 Mid range • Abydos. An ancient city where the story of Hero
and Leander takes place.
• Kolin Hotel , Kepez 17100. Tel:+90 286 218-0808
• Assos (also known as Behramkale; about 100 km
• Akol Hotel , Kayserili Ahmet Paşa cad. Kordon- to south) is a historically-important, pleasant seaside
boyu. Tel:+90 286 217-9456 village.
• Buyuk Truva Hotel , Cevatpaşa Mah. M.Akif Ersoy

• Along the Troad Coast — an itinerary south of
cad.No:2. Tel:+90 286 217-1024
Çanakkale combining visits to Troy, Assos, and a
• Hotel Kervansaray, Fetvane Sokak 13, ☎ 217 number of other historical sites along the Aegean
8792. Nice hotel close to waterfront. Comfortable coast.
rooms, helpful staff and lovely courtyard.
151.9.3 Splurge
151.10 Cope
There is a public bathroom outside the ferry harbor area,
but it costs 0.5 TL, has no toilet paper (napkins on a ta-
ble outside the bathroom door), and has holes rather than
toilets on the women’s side. It is probably best to use a
bathroom at a restaurant or your hostel.
151.11 Go next
Çanakkale is a convenient base to explore many nearby
sights from.
• Troy (Truva or Troya in Turkish) — an archaeolog-

ical site about 30 km away. Ruins of the legendary
city with the (re-constructed) wooden horse.
• Gokceada (Imbros) and Bozcaada (Tenedos) —

two of the biggest islands of Turkey, also the only
significant Turkish islands in the Aegean Sea, are
nearby.
Chapter 152
Armutlu (Marmara)
Armutlu, in the Southern Marmara Region, is the prin- and is called Köy (“village”) by them.
cipal town of the Armutlu Peninsula, a hilly land draped Down back to the coast a kilometre and a half southwest
with olives, cypresses, stone pines and other Mediter- from the village is Tavşantepe (“rabbit’s hill”), another
ranean vegetation, interrupted by the occasional rocky area of a group of summer houses, but less dense and less
canyon. vertical than İskele, intertwined by the olive groves which
provide the region’s main agricultural product.
The road west from Tavşantepe abruptly ends at the gate
152.1 Understand of İhlas (“fidelity”, from Arabic Al-Ikhlas, one of the
chapters of the Quran), the timeshare condominiums of
Armutlu (“the place of pear”, although there is no partic- several huge, Sovietesque, or even Prora-like V-shaped
ular reason why this fruit should give its name to the town) blocks in a park setting, attracting mostly (but not lim-
is a seaside town on the southern coast of the peninsula of ited to) a conservative, Islamic clientele.
the same name, fronting the waters of the Gulf of Gemlik.
According to the official statistics, the population stands Further northwest from İhlas is the Cape Bozburun (“grey
roughly at 5,000, but during the season, it’s a factor of point”), the westernmost tip of the Armutlu Peninsula,
that due to the influx of the holidaymakers. marked by a lonely clifftop lighthouse.
Armutlu has beautiful views over the sea, thanks to the

coastal mountains of Mysia on the other side of the gulf,
and the mightier Mt. Uludağ beyond.
152.2 Get in
152.2.1 By boat
152.1.1 Climate
The fast ferries (deniz otobüsü, “sea-bus”) provided by
Armutlu experiences the Mediterranean climate which İDO from Istanbul's Yenikapı jetty (on the southern coast
allows the nominally tropical bougainvillea to display of the old city) are the most convenient way of getting
their attractive purple flowers this far north. What is great to Armutlu from that direction for foot passengers (1h
about the sunny and rainless summers in Armutlu is that 25min, expect delays of up to 15 min, 25 TL). The de-
the town is almost always breezy, with a very noticeable parture frequency ranges from four times daily in summer
and welcome lack of humidity. The winters are mild and to once daily off-season.
rainy, rarely snowy. By April, it’s already late spring here,
The frequent car ferries make it no further than Yalova
and the fragrant white lilies are all over the place in the
on this route (1h 20min, 75 TL, plus 12 TL for each ad-
wilder bits of the peninsula.
ditional passenger other than the driver).
152.1.2 Orientation 152.2.2 By bus

Around the ferry port, there is what resembles a town The minibuses, or rather small-sized buses, run by the
square—the focus of a large conglomeration of buildings local transportation company Armutlu Kooperatif ply the
with several storeys. The cobbled streets of this part of routes from Yalova (1h 45min, 14 TL) and Gemlik (1h,
the town, called İskele (“harbour”) by the locals, is lively
10 TL), about once every two hours during the daytime
during the summer, but it should feel like a ghost town (see the company’s website for a full list of departures,
off-season. and note that all the hours listed there are the departure
About a kilometre northwest of İskele is the hillside old times, not necessarily the arrival). In Gemlik, they start
town centre, where most of the full-time residents live, from the main intercity bus station (terminal), and also
456
152.4. SEE AND DO 457
have a stop about 600 mt east of the town square/central 152.4 See and Do
mosque, on the corner of Hürriyet Cd and the eastbound
riverside street, where a vehicular bridge crosses the dry Well, Armutlu isn't really a sightseeing paradise, and
creekbed (locally known as Dereboyu Taşköprü; there is there is no sight of especial importance that you should
a small and inconveniently placed sign saying Armutlu look after. But if you are already here, you might want to
Fıstıklı Minibüs Durağı at the stop, but few locals are sure
check out the historic houses—some completely wooden,
about where this stop is exactly located). On either lines,some half-timbered—in the back alleys of the old vil-
there is no need to buy a ticket beforehand as the driver lage, although many are in an advanced stage of dere-
or an attendant will come over to collect the fee at some liction. The two-arched stone bridge just below the vil-
part of the journey. lage, altered significantly for the modern vehicular traf-
There are also direct buses three times daily from Bursa's fic, may be another reluctant sight, and the flowers hang-
bus station run by Armodies Tur. Should you happen to ing from pots all along the embankments and strung lit-
miss one, your best bet is catching a bus to Gemlik from erally above the creekbed just downriver from the bridge
Bursa, and transferring to an Armutlu-bound one there. are cute enough (although the polluted riverbed under-
neath less so).
Although there is a small bus station of some sort just
south of the old village, both inbound and outbound So why then, the average traveller would ever want to visit
minibuses make it everywhere in town, from İskele to İh- Armutlu, you might ask. The answer is simple—for a
las (and vice versa), dropping off and picking up passen- quick dip in the sea, and, more importantly, to soothe in
gers as they go. the waters of the hot springs.
The seawater in Armutlu is reasonably clean (although
somewhat opaque if the waves drift ashore from the
south), and you can find both sandy and shingle beaches,
152.2.3 By car but you are still in the Marmara, and don't expect the
turquoise waters of the Lycian coast here.
There are two approaches to Armutlu—from Yalova (53 The local thermal water gives off a very sweet hue of icy
km) via Çınarcık and Esenköy and from Gemlik (48 blue when filled in a tub due to its mineral content and is
km)—both of which wind their way through the forested said to heal a number of problems especially related to the
mountains some elevation above the coastline, offering a skin, but relaxing in a steamy tub without any dermato-
very scenic ride at least to the non-drivers. Both roads logical expectations is just as rewarding. It’s available in
have their well-maintained bits, almost up to the highway a number of hotels in town in addition to an old Turkish
standards, as well as narrower and bumpier sections with bath (hamam; signposted as Merkez Kaplıca, “the cen-
their share of hairpin turns (the road from Yalova having tral hot springs”) in the old village. The actual springs
slightly more of the latter, because more of it goes through(Kaplıca), though, are located in a very beautiful moun-
undeveloped mountainous terrain, which also makes it a tain valley surrounded by pine woods, 4 km north of the
tad more scenic), although either can be negotiated by a village just off the road to Yalova, and are complete with
standard 2WD combined with some careful driving. a hotel, a restaurant, and another set of baths. Keep in
Both roads connect with D575—the main highway north mind that the local thermal water is not recommended
of Bursa, connecting it with Istanbul—at their eastern ter- for drinking—the nearby hot springs in Termal south of
mini. Yalova is a better option to do that.
152.5 Buy
152.3 Get around
Armutlu, and the Southern Marmara in general, is one
of the greatest producers of olive in Turkey, so, as many
Private minibuses run between the harbour, the village, shop signs around the town saying zeytinci (“olive store”)
and west to İhlas. The minibuses run by the town council attest, this is a great place to go shopping for olive prod-
(Belediye) also cover more or less the same routes, in ad- ucts, including many types of flavoured and unflavoured
dition to a service up to the hot springs over the mountains brined olives, olive oil, Castile soap, or even shampoo!
in the north.
The roads within the town are all uniformly well paved,
although somewhat narrow in many parts, and often lack- 152.6 Eat and Drink
ing surface markings.
There is no sidewalk along most of the road between İhlas There are various eateries and cafes around the square in
and the village, so appropriate caution as a pedestrian is İskele. Self-catering travellers will also find the stores of
in order. the national supermarket chains nearby.
458 CHAPTER 152. ARMUTLU (MARMARA)
The street market, where you can purchase fresh vegeta-

bles and fruits grown in the surrounding countryside, is
held on Saturdays.
152.7 Sleep
• Thuya Ecofarm, Mecidiye Köyü, ☎ +90 226 535-
63-83. Agro-ecotourism certified boutique hotel,
offering jeep safari tours around the peninsula of
Armutlu, horse riding, organic food with vegetarian
options available, located in a village inside a forest
450 mt above the sea level. They also sell home-
made certified organic food, no matter whether you
are staying there or not. €40-60.
152.8 Connect
(+90) 226 is the telephone code for the area.
152.9 Go next
• Yeşil-Mavi Yol (“Green-Blue Road”) is a route con-
necting various high meadows, lakes, and waterfalls
along the village and backcountry roads through the
hilly spine of the peninsula all the way to Yalova.
Take the road from the old town signposted west to
the village of Mecidiye.
Chapter 153
Balikesir
Balıkesir is a city in interior Southern Marmara, Turkey. • Coach station (Otogar), ☎ +90 266 241 11 99.
Buses arriving from destinations around Turkey come

153.1 Get in into a new bus terminal (Otogar) on Bandirma Caddesi
(the old highway to Bursa and Istanbul), just inside the
ringroad (Çevre Yolu) at the extreme northern end of the
153.1.1 By plane city. Just outside the terminal building is a bus stop where
buses (1.35 TL) go every half hour or so into the city. To
Nearest airport is Edremit Körfez Airport (IATA: get to the sites listed on this page, take the bus to its termi-
EDO) located near Edremit, about 90-100 km west. nal (about 15-20 min), the old bus terminal (Eski Garaj)
at Republic Square (Cumhuriyet Meydanı).
• Edremit Körfez Airport (Edremit Körfez
Havaalanı), ☎ +90 266 312 11 30. Flights
from Istanbul-Atatürk by Atlasjet 153.1.4 By boat
Although Balıkesir is an inland city away from the sea,
153.1.2 By train you can take fast ferries from Istanbul to Bandirma and
then take the train or the bus for the rest.
Balıkesir lies on the junction of railroads stretching to
north (Marmara coast) and to east (Central Anatolia)
from Izmir. And as such, trains to Balıkesir are available 153.1.5 By car
from:
Balıkesir lies on the main highway between Istanbul and
• Ankara (İzmir Mavi Treni, 9 Eylül Express, Karesi Izmir (D565), with connections to D200/E90, which
Express) leads to Bursa in the east, and Çanakkale in the west.
• Eskişehir, Kütahya (İzmir Mavi Treni, 9 Eylül Ex-

press, Karesi Express, Ege Express) 153.2 Get around
• Manisa, Izmir (İzmir Mavi Treni, 9 Eylül Express,
Karesi Express, Ege Express, 6 Eylül Express) After the Otogar was moved out to the edge of town, the
old bus terminal (Eski Garaj) was converted into a central
• Bandirma (6 Eylül Express)
station for all public transit in the city, including taxi dol-
muş lines. All bus stops at Eski Garaj are clearly marked
For more info, see Turkish State Railways (TCDD) web- with their destination identified by district (... Mahallesi)
page . and the streets on which the bus travels. All but two buses
The station is located at Republic Square (Cumhuriyet and all dolmuş cost 1.35 TL between any point on their
Meydanı) on the eastern edge of downtown. Across the route and Eski Garaj.
highway from the station is the old bus terminal, Eski There are also two free bus routes that run in a circle
Garaj. around the city center from Eski Garaj. The R1 route is
most useful for tourists as it passes literally every tourist
site in the center, including stops right in front of or across
153.1.3 By bus
from, Yildirim Mosque, Zağnos Paşa Mosque, and the
Balıkesir lies on the main route that the buses between Military Museum/Clock Tower.
Istanbul and Izmir take, so has a very high frequency of The city center is also quite walkable. From Cumhuriyet
buses (several every hour) from those two major centres. Meydanı, all tourist sites are within 500 m of the square
459
460 CHAPTER 153. BALIKESIR
with a stroll up Milli Kuvvetler Caddesi (the street run- 153.6 Eat
ning off the Square without a sign pointing toward another
city such as Edremit or Izmir) being the most direct route • Mega Yıldız, Akıncılar Mahallesi, Cumalı Cad-
to Zağnos Paşa Mosque. desi and Tekin Sokak (about 200 metres from the
train station at Vasıf Çınar Caddesi and Gazi Bul-
varı), ☎ +90 266 245 76 18. A clean and spacious
153.3 See family restaurant offering a wide variety of typical
Turkish dishes, well prepared and tasty. As usual
in Turkey you can select from the foods displayed
• Balıkesir Museum – National Forces Museum inside and order-by-pointing. There is a children’s
(Balıkesir Müzesi – Kuvayı Milliye Müzesi), Ana- garden. They have a separate pastry shop (pastane),
fartalar Caddesi (located at the old town hall build- a short distance away on Yalkır Caddesi.
ing), ☎ +90 266 243 31 81. Tu-Su. Museum ded-
icated to the fighters of Turkish War of Indepen-
dence (1921-22), became to be known as “National
Forces” (Kuvayı Milliye). Written documents, pri-
153.7 Drink
vate items and photos of the fighters, and some pho-
tos of Kemal Atatürk taken when he was in the city. • Hisar Ayran (yoghurt drink) - Not a famous brand
Archeological artifacts excavated in the surrounding in Turkey but it’s the best ayran you can ever drink.
region and some ethnographic artifacts are exhibited Can be found in almost all the restaurants or buffets
upstairs. in Balıkesir.
• Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi), Anafartalar Caddesi (at

the city centre, adjacent to old town hall – the Mu-
153.8 Sleep
seum). Modelled after Galata Tower of Istanbul,
this clock tower was built in 1827. It took its current 153.9 Connect
appearance after it was destroyed by an earthquake
in 1897 and re-built.
Telephone code of the city is (+90) 266.
• State Fine Arts Gallery (Devlet Güzel Sanatlar Ga- • Tourism Information Office (Turizm İl Müdür-
lerisi), Çavuş Sokak 30 (at Eski Kuyumcular Ma- lüğü), ☎ +90 266 244 72 71.
hallesi Quarter), ☎ +90 266 241 30 45, fax: +90
266 245 31 52.
153.10 Go next
• Tomb of Karesi Bey (Karesi Bey Türbesi) (behind
Zagnos Pasha Mosque). Mosque Tomb of Karesi
As the capital of one of few Turkish provinces which has
Bey and his five sons. Karesi Bey was the founder
a coastline on two seas, Balıkesir is around 50 km away
of Karesi Emirate which ruled more or less Southern
from the seaside resort towns on both Southern Marmara
Marmara during a period when there was no central-
and Northern Aegean coasts, such as Erdek, Ayvalık,
ized, major power in Asia Minor (13th century).
and Akçay. Two of Turkey’s largest cities, the former
Ottoman capital of Bursa, and Izmir, “the pearl of the
• Yildirim Mosque (Yıldırım Camii). Built by Sultan Aegean”, lies a little further away to east and south, re-
Bayezid I in the second half of 14th century. Free. spectively.
• Zagnos Pasha Mosque (Zağnos Paşa Camii) (at

the city centre; near Hasanbaba Bazaar). Built by
Zağnos Pasha, grand vizier of Mehmed II period
(1451-81) as a religious complex, only mosque and
baths have remained to the date. Free.
153.4 Do
153.5 Buy
Chapter 154
Bandirma
Bandırma is a city in Marmara Region, Turkey. It’s lo- 154.10 Go next

cated on the southern coastline of the Sea of Marmara.
Erdek, and the islands of Marmara and Avsa are nearby
resorts.
154.1 Get in
154.1.1 By train
There is a daily train to Izmir via Balikesir.
• Train Station (Tren Garı), ☎ +90 266 713 60 89.
154.1.2 By boat
There are fast ferries several times a day from Istanbul,

run by İDO .
154.2 Get around
154.3 See
154.4 Do
154.5 Buy
154.6 Eat
154.7 Drink
154.8 Sleep
154.9 Connect
461
Chapter 155
Bozcaada
a week between Istanbul and Çanakkale. THY Turkish

Airlines are flying to Çanakkale.
155.2.2 By bus
Regular buses run from most major cities to Çanakkale.

From Çanakkale there are frequent Bus connection to
Geyikli Yukyeri Port where the ferryboats connect Boz-
caada with the mainland. There are also some buses from
Istanbul directly to Geyikli Yukyeri Port (“Truva” and
“Metro” bus companies).
There is a bus company office located in one of the small
Bozcaada ferry harbor shops at the town square. You can buy your ticket for Is-
tanbul (or somewhere else on the way) for a bus departing
Bozcaada (pronounced boz-DJA-ah-dah) is an island on from Geyikli in the mainland. Your bus will be waiting
the Aegean Sea, near the western exit of Dardanelles in for you just outside the harbour in Geyikli. Don’t for-
Turkey. Its ancient name is Tenedos. get to catch the corresponding ferry back to the mainland
(bus hours are usually in accordance with the ferry hours,
they depart usually about 30 minutes after the departure
of the ferry from island quay), they may wait for the next
155.1 Understand ferry or not! (more likely, not)
Bozcaada is located 12 miles from the Çanakkale Strait

and extends over an area of around 40 square kilometers,
roughly in the shape of a triangle one edge of which is 155.2.3 By car
parallel to mainland coast. The islanders make their living
from viticulture, fishing and tourism. From Istanbul — Get to Çanakkale first by following the
The sole town of the island—home to about 2,000 route west from the city via Tekirdağ, Keşan, Gelibolu,
people—lies on its northeastern corner, facing the main- and Eceabat. Take the ferry at Eceabat to cross the Strait
land. The rest of the island is covered by vine- to Asia. After passing the Strait into Çanakkale in Asia,
yards, scattered pine woods, and Mediterranean shrub- take the road (D550/E87) south to Izmir. About 30 km
land (maquis), dotted by the occasional vineyard manor away from Canakkale (and only a few km after you left
and, close to the coastline, housing estates used by main- the junction for the road to Troy behind), you’ll arrive
land Turks as vacation homes. at the junction which the access road to Geyikli harbour
forks (there are also ‘Bozcaada’ signs on that junction).
This route is about 400 km in total. Those who’d like to
drive less may take fast ferries from Istanbul to Bandirma
155.2 Get in on the southern shore of Marmara. Bandirma to Geyikli
is abut 210 km in total.
155.2.1 By plane From Izmir — Take the route north (D550/E87) to
Çanakkale, and turn left (to direction signposted as
Çanakkale Airport is located 56 km away from the ‘Geyikli’/’Bozcaada’ there) in Ezine, about 50 km south
Geyikli Yukyeri Harbour. There is a 3 connections in of Çanakkale.
462
155.5. DO 463
155.2.4 By boat at the others, served for Byzantines, Venetians and

Genoans, although there is no evidence indicating
In summer of 2009, passenger-only fast ferry (deniz oto- who exactly built the castle. Still maintaining its
büsü) service to Bozcaada direct from Çanakkale started. glory, this is one of the castles that are in best con-
However, the only mainland location with a ferry condition in Turkey. Entrance fee: 5 TL (3 TL for stu-
nection which can accommodate cars to Bozcaada is still dents).
Geyikli, located on the western (Aegean) shore of Troad
(Biga) Peninsula, south of Çanakkale. • Streets. The old cobbled streets and districts in the
Ferryboat Schedule from Geyikli to Bozcaada (there are center of the town maintain their traditional archi-
often changes on the schedule, so it advisable to check): tecture.
A return ticket (they don’t sell any one-way) for the ferry
between Geyikli and Bozcaada costs 4 TL per person • Beaches. Although you can swim even in the small
without a car (no student discounts). There is a ticket harbor, the beaches are located on the southern part
check only once when boarding the ferry in the mainland, of the island, namely Ayazma and Habbele where
after this, the ticket is practically worthless, since it is not you can find some beach cafes around. Renting two
checked again (for example when boarding to return to deckchairs and a beach umbrella for half a day in
the mainland in Bozcaada). Ayazma beach costs 5 TL. The fee is collected twice
a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon
by employees walking around the deckchairs one by
155.3 Get around one (not at the entrance). You can of course swim
and sunbathe free of charge in nearby areas which
are out of the beach club property.
There are frequent minibuses heading for Ayazma and
Habbele beaches. Their departure is in the square right
next to the entrance of the castle. A one-way ride costs 3
TL per person (no student discounts available) and takes 155.5 Do
about 15 minutes. There is also a minibus service once
every day (at sunset time) to Cape Polente, the west- • Swimming. Due to freshwater discharges from the
ernmost point of the island and where the electricity- sea floor, the seawater in Ayazma beach is shock-
generating wind turbines are located. ingly cold, even in the hottest months, which is
Although they are well-paved in most sections, most of pretty good for those preferring a (very) refreshing
the roads on the island are narrow. Nevertheless, there seabath.
is little traffic anyway, so it is no problem that they are
narrow.
The town itself is really small — you can walk from one 155.6 Buy
edge of it to another in approximately ten minutes.
There are two ATM’s in town and they do accept foreign
VISA cards. One is located at the main square and other
155.4 See on the exterior wall of Ziraat Bankası in the town square.
As of summer 2006, there was only one supermarket
in the island (located at one of the cobblestone streets,
past one of the wine shops, leading to the town square).
There you can find anything you may need as a casual
traveller. Despite its monopolistic situation, the prices
were at about the same level as the mainland.
• locally produced wine and natural Red Poppy

Syrup
• Tomato jam – This delicious jam can be only found

on the island in Turkey. It can be obtained from the
Bozcaada Castle from the beach shop with a big “Salto” sign on the town square, or
from the only supermarket of the town (it did cost
7 TL in summer 2006, there are also other locally
• Castle. The castle, surrounded by sea at one side produced jams being sold at both stores), or from
and by a nowadays-dry (or marshy at best) moat villager stalls (same price).
464 CHAPTER 155. BOZCAADA
155.6.1 Books years ago! The local wine producers are Corvus
, Yunatçılar Camlibag , Talay, Ataol and Güler-
Locally available books that are worth a look are: ada. There are various local grapes such as vasi-
laki (white), karalahna (red), kuntra (red), karasakiz
• Kalaafiyet The book of Bozcaada recipes. A list of (red).
100 recipes and Aegean food, island food and also
• Red Poppy Syrup. A local specialty of Ada Cafe.
island life.
• Anayurt (Mother Land) by Dimitri Kakmioglu.

This is a memoir about an island childhood set in
155.8.2 Bars
the late 1960s. Available in Turkish and English.
• Salhane Bar (in the yellow building on the far edge
of the cove enclosed by the citadel, town, and moun-
tains), ☎ +90 286 697 01 27. Probably the most fa-
155.7 Eat mous drinking establishment of the island. Also has
some open air deckchair-like seats just on the edge
Definitely fish restaurants. A fish, some green salad, and of the sea, facing some scary looking rocks ascend-
a glass of raki did cost about 20 TL per person in summer ing suddenly from the sea. Quite lukewarm waiters.
2006. You can see the prices for different kinds of fish on There are reports that Salhane is closed, though it is
the boards in front of many restaurants. Keep in mind that worth a check if it will re-open for 2010 summer.
almost all restaurants in the town gets really crowded be-
tween 8PM and 10PM and it is almost impossible to find • Fuska bar behind the castle has a lovely terrace by
a seat between these hours unless you either, be seated the sea. There are also other nice bars behind the
before 8PM or after 10PM, or better yet, reserve a seat castle.
during the day.
• There are also some other bars located on the sides
• Marti Restaurant (behind the castle), ☎ +90 286 of the street leading to Salhane, too.
697 88 95, e-mail: info@martirestaurant.com.tr.
Fish and other local tastes. From 30 TL/person.
155.9 Sleep
• There is also a cheaper (did cost about 15 TL for a
filling meal for two persons in summer 2006) out-
Average price in the hotels and pensions of the island
door restaurant in the first street to the left (when
is about 50 YTL (and upwards) per person per night.
walking from the harbour) which serves traditional
This price generally includes breakfast too. There is also
Turkish cuisine. You can recognise it by its checked
a campsite near Habbele beach which should be much
tablecloths.
cheaper.
• Ucmuz Ada. Restaurant serving delicious meals as If you are given a chance to choose between a
well as great chocolate soufflé—this is the only place cheaper/non-air conditioned room and a more expen-
on the island serving that dessert. sive/AC room, go for non-A/C one, as it is always
windy in Bozcaada and you won’t need to use the air-
• Maya, American Cesme Mevkii, Kume Evleri conditioner. Why pay more for a useless A/C? It’s un-
(Its about 50 meters from American Fountain), likely but even if you feel hot, you can simply wide open
☎ (0286)697-80-50. 8AM-11PM. This is small the window (except if you are staying in the street-level
restaurant serving daily home made dishes for floor for obvious reasons) even if there is no mosquito
breakfast, lunch and dinner. The owner is the screen installed, as mosquitoes cannot survive in this
chef and he prepares everything daily; freshly baked windy climate and theft from the hotel rooms (by entering
breads and treats, home made cheeses and jams and through the window) is virtually unknown.
wines. Reservations are a must as its small but worth Be aware, it is almost impossible to find a room without
the experience! Moderate. booking beforehand in summer.
• Bozcaada Biz Hotel and Private Houses. If you

155.8 Drink wish to feel like an islander during your visit, rent
one of the renovated traditional houses located in
155.8.1 Local drinks the Greek quarter of the town center or stay in com-
fortable rooms of Biz Hotel right across to the only
• Wine - this is a wine-land where they imprinted one church of the island. Double room costs 220 TL
a bunch of grapes on their coins thousands of with full breakfast (summer 2011).
155.13. GO NEXT 465
• Gümüş Hotel (on the first street to left when walking further prefixed with 697 (which should be dialed even
out of harbour), ☎ +90 286 697-82-52. Very clean when calling within the island), making up 7 digits in the
rooms with air-con and en suite bathroom. Rooms total without the area code (10 with the area code): 286-
offer a nice view of harbour, fish restaurants, and the 697-xx-xx. To call a number in the island from out of
castle. Booking is highly advised in summer. Dou- Turkey, dial +90 286 first.
ble rooms: 50 TL per person/night (Summer 2006).
Breakfast included.
155.13 Go next
• Baghane Pension and Traditional Town Houses.
You can either rent traditional houses located in the
• Gokceada, the other/northern significant Turkish is-
Greek quarter of the island or just share a room in
land of the Aegean Sea, has a considerably different
the farm house with large breakfast. Double rooms
ambience than Bozcaada.
110 YTL (summer 2008).
• Yelkenli Bed&Breakfast, Papazbahce Mevkii (on

the way left to Ayazma beach), ☎ +90-541-962-88-
00. A cute and cozy vineyard house with 3 separate
rooms, located at the (geographical) center of the
island, a fair distance from town center. 150 TL per
room.
• Aika Hotel Bozcaada, Alaybey Mh. Namazgah

Cd. N. 8/ Cumhuriyet Mh. Meserret Sk. N. 27
(near the harbour), ☎ +90-532-461-42-55. Check-
in: 12:00, check-out: 14:00. A new boutique ho-
tel in the old town, with a kitchenette and a shared
living/dining area. All rooms feature en-suite bath-
rooms, A/C, free wi-fi, and satellite TV. Breakfasts
boast homemade and organic ingredients. 100-120
TL pp/night (breakfast included; 2012).
155.10 Work
It is sometimes possible to find a job as a waiter or wait-
ress in one of the not-so-many cafés in the town. You
may also try to work as a picker during grape-harvest time
(August to October). But don’t rely on either of these be-
fore going to Bozcaada anyway.
155.11 Stay healthy

Don’t swim in the stony beach between the castle and Sal-
hane bar (that yellow building located between the moun-
tain and the shoreline) in the town centre. As you’ll soon
find out by the smell, there is a raw sewage discharge into
the sea from two different points in that beach. The afore-
mentioned beaches are perfectly pure, though.
155.12 Connect
155.12.1 Telephone
The area code for Bozcaada (and the rest of Çanakkale
province) is 286. All phone numbers in the island are
Chapter 156
Bursa
often oppressive communist regime (mainly ethnic Turks

from Bulgaria, Macedonia, and Kosovo, as well as some
Albanian Muslims), or from the far northeast of the coun-
try, including Muslim Georgians, who settled in the city
in numbers for economical reasons. The city is also re-
ceiving immigration from elsewhere in the country, due
to the recent growth of industry.
Green Tomb at a winter night As one of the western terminuses of Silk Road, Bursa
was, and still is, the main centre of Turkish silk industry.
Other local products include fruits—especially peaches—
Bursa, the fourth largest Turkish city, is in the northwest- grown abundantly in the fertile plain below the city, and
ern part of the country, just south of the Sea of Marmara. chestnuts harvested from semi-wild stands on the hill-
The first impression of the city might be that of a large, sides. Relatively recent newcomers include automative
concrete-ridden modern metropolis that is betraying its industry, and a more diverse array of textiles, which have
largely recognized Turkish epithet of Yeşil Bursa (“Green surpassed the traditional trades lately.
Bursa”), and its historical prominency as being the cradle Bursa also strives to be “green” in the other sense: It is
of the Ottoman state; however, upon a closer look you will the first and so far the only Turkish city to have been
see it really lives up to its name, by proudly displaying its measuring the electromagnetic pollution, and has some of
Ottoman heritage in the shape of many mosques, tombs, the highest recycling rates in the country raked up by its
and lovely quarters of old houses, as well as by harbouring metropolitan municipalities within the last two decades
many pleasant parks, which fill the city with fresh air, and (the program is geared more towards the residential dis-
provide the weary traveller some shade to rest in—and tricts, though, so you won't see many separated bins in
even if you haven't found the parks sufficient enough to the centre to put your empty water bottle in). The envi-
have this city earned the honorific of “green”, then the ronmental auspices reach beyond the city limits as well;
lush woodlands of Mt. Uludağ is just above that steep Bursa has pioneered in signing the power lines in the
hill. surrounding countryside with big coloured spheres so as
In 2014, Bursa and a nearby village of Cumalıkızık were to minimize the danger they pose upon migratory birds
added to the UNESCO world heritage list. The remains (a project now implemented nationwide), and hosts the
at several sites illustrate the creation of an urban and rural sanctuary of the bears that were rescued from the cruel
system establishing the Ottoman Empire in the early 14th tradition of “dancing bears” now outlawed (in which bear
century. cubs were taken away from wilderness and forced to
“dance” upon the percussion of their masters, of course,
unbeknownst by the spectators, with the threat of physi-
cal harm—this was a common theme of the tourist photo
156.1 Understand shots taken in Istanbul up to the early 90s) in the forests
near Karacabey, 70 km west of the city. The sanctuary
Bursa lies 20 km inland from the coast of the Sea of Mar- is still in operation, now serving as a temporary rehabil-
mara, with which it is connected by the River Nilüfer, itation centre for all kinds of wildlife that were illegally
which meanders its way through the northwestern sub- taken into captivity.
urbs of the city. With its 2.5 million residents, it closely
follows the “big three” of Turkey—Istanbul, Ankara, and
İzmir—in population. Much of the population are immi- 156.1.1 History
grants, or their descendants, who have been in the city for
a couple generations or more, either from Balkan coun- As with many cities of the classical era, ancient Prusa,
tries fled from their homeland mostly during the years of a corrupted form of which is now the modern name of
466
156.2. GET IN 467
the city, was named after its founder, Prusias, the king toman clocktower rising on Tophane, and just below it
of Bithynia, who set the first stone of the city in 202 BC. on the street level, the much modern blue glass pyramid
About a century and quarter later, Bursa, along with the standing on the square in front of the Zafer Plaza shop-
rest of the Kingdom of Bithynia, was annexed into the ping mall. Heading further west, passing under the over-
Roman Empire. It was the Romans who developed the pass at the intersection with another main street (Ahmet
baths making use of the thermal waters of Çekirge first, Hamdi Tanpınar Caddesi), the main street is named Al-
and they have been in continual operation ever since. (But tıparmak Caddesi, one of the main shopping streets of
the Byzantines were the ones who were really enthusiastic the city, sharing the same name with the district it tra-
about the baths. The first steps of tourism in Bursa date verses. The western end of Altıparmak Cd, and the hill
back to that era, when people from far and wide were on which the Ottoman quarter of Muradiye resides south
arriving in numbers to visit the baths for their therapeutic of/above it, mark the limit of the traditional centre of the
properties.) city; further west from here lies Çekirge Caddesi, lead-
ing to the one-time suburb of Çekirge, through the afflu-
In 1326, after trying for 8 to 10 years (historians haven't
come to an agreement on the exact duration yet), then- ent and leafy neighbourhood of Kükürtlü. Between Altı-
parmak and Kükürtlü, due north of Muradiye, Stadyum
Byzantine Bursa became the first major city that the Ot-
tomans, who started as a small emirate in the countryside Caddesi lying on the edge of the football stadium and
just east of the city, had taken control of. As such, it was Kültürpark connects the city centre with D200, the main
here that the Ottoman principality rose to full statehood intercity highway skirting the city centre to north.
from being an insignificant, remote, semi-nomad soci- East of Heykel, just past the Setbaşı Bridge, spanning
ety. Even after the seat was moved to Edirne in European the fairly deep gorge of Gökdere Stream (the bridge, due
mainland in 1365, as the sultans turned their attention to to the unexpectedly long drop below it, is infamous as the
the continent across the Sea of Marmara, Bursa kept its favourite suicide spot of Bursa), the main street forks into
special place in the Ottoman psyche, and all sultans up to two in a Y-junction, marked by an old plane tree right
Mehmet the Conqueror, who put an end to the Byzantine in the middle: Take left, Yeşil Caddesi, for Yeşil, and
Empire by taking its last stronghold, Constantinople, in Emirsultan further east, or right, Namazgah Caddesi,
1453, were buried here, even those reigning from Edirne. for the station of cable-cars to Uludağ.
Many dynasty members, even after the throne was moved
to Constantinople, followed the suite as well.
The earthquake of 1855 shook the city hard, claiming
many landmarks together with it. With this information 156.1.3 Climate
in mind, you'll have little reason to wonder why what
seemingly should be an ancient Ottoman edifice was built A great time to visit the city is the late winter/early
in then-contemporary styles of Ottomanized Baroque and spring, which is characterized by refreshing rains early in
Rococo. the morning, followed by sunny and comfortably warm
noons—a welcome and easily perceived change from
cooler Istanbul (located further north) or Eskişehir (lo-
156.1.2 Orientation cated higher, and further away from the sea).
The steep foothills of Uludağ forced the city to grow in

a linear, elongated form in an east-west direction, rather
than spread out. Most of the sights and useful locations
are on or near the main street, which finds its way through
156.2 Get in
the entire length of the city centre (roughly 6–7 km),
called under various names in different parts of the city. 156.2.1 By plane
The central square of the city is Heykel (“statue”), named
so because of an imposing equestrian statue of Kemal The local airport, Yenişehir Airport (IATA: YEI), is lo-
Atatürk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, standing cated 43 km east of the city, near the town of Yenişehir.
in front of the building of the Province Governorship (the A limited number of international and domestic flights
official name of this square is Cumhuriyet Alanı, “Repub- connect to the airport (listed below); however, given the
lic Square”, but no one uses it). inconvenient location of the airport, and the infrequent
West of Heykel, the name of the main drag is Atatürk connections with the city, Istanbul's Atatürk and Sabiha
Caddesi. Past Ulucami and the bazaars area (or the Gökçen are frankly easier airports to get to the city, and
“Khans and Bazaars District”, as those in the tourism in- with a ferry connection, form the most common way of
dustry in Bursa love to name it), the street becomes Ce- getting to the city. And you will very likely have to transit
mal Nadir Caddesi, skirting around the hill of Tophane, in one of them to land in Yenişehir, anyway.
the oldest core of the city surrounded by ancient walls. Here is a list of international and domestic flights to
Useful landmarks on this part of the city include the Ot- Bursa:
468 CHAPTER 156. BURSA
International 156.2.4 By bus
• Munich Franz Josef Strauss Airport — Operated by Buses connect with most, if not all, significant cities in the
Lufthansa country, including, but not limited to, Ankara, İzmir, and
Antalya. Prices vary between € 10 to € 50, depending
• Skopje “Alexander the Great” Airport — Operated on the distance.
by Borajet A bus ride from Istanbul, which costs about € 10 or 30
TL, involves taking a ferry when crossing the Gulf of
İzmit between the ports of Eskihisar east of Istanbul and
Domestic Topçular east of Yalova, and takes about three to three
and a half hours, depending on the stops the bus makes
Operated by Anadolu Jet and Borajet in the towns along the route and the length of the queue
for the ferry. Note that the food and drinks in the ferry
are overpriced; a small sandwich gulped down with some
• Ankara Esenboğa Airport orange juice can easily cost 12 TL.
All intercity buses arrive at the modern bus station (lo-
Operated by Borajet cally called Terminal), about 10 km north of the city, off
the highway to Istanbul, and just inside the newly-built
• Adana Şakirpaşa Airport beltway (which the buses heading for east, west, and south
take). All buses offload at one side, the ticket kiosks all lo-
• Diyarbakır Airport cated inside, and at the other side are the yellow city buses
leaving for the downtown and various districts of the city
centre. The row of bus stops are equipped with illumi-
• Erzurum Airport
nated signs telling the route number and the main stops
the bus in the stop in question will go through—#38 goes
• Samsun Çarşamba Airport
in a loop between the downtown and the station, while
#96 connects with Çekirge, also going through parts of
• Sivas Airport
the downtown first, and closing its loop through Kükürtlü
and Çekirge before returning to the station. (Upon re-
• Trabzon Airport turning to the station while leaving the city, you should
also take your bus in the stops on the same side of the
street that you got off, because of the circular fashion of
156.2.2 By train the routes of these buses.) It takes these buses around 45
minutes to complete their route, first along the highway
Since the decommissioning of Bursa–Mudanya railway in the edge of the city, then into the narrow alleys of the
in the 1950s, there has been no railway connecting with slum-like district of Çirişhane, and finally into the city
Bursa. centre through Stadyum Caddesi (see the “Orientation”
However, when coming from Ankara, you can take the section above). While in the station, buy your ticket (2.50
high-speed train (YHT) to Eskişehir, which is located TL) from the small building next to the bus stops.
about the mid-way, and then transfer to the bus head- There are also very frequent turquoise coloured buses
ing for Bursa there, which is provided by Turkish State marked HEYKEL which will let you off right in the centre
Railways and departs right in front of the station. This of Bursa opposite Ulucamii.
combined trip takes around 4 hours (as opposed to 5 and
a half hours by bus only), and there are seven fast train
departures daily from Ankara. 156.2.5 By boat
The following journey is the fastest option from Istanbul:
156.2.3 By car
• Take the Yenikapı-Bursa ferry from Istanbul
Yenikapı terminal (in the European part of Istanbul
Highways that are fairly wide and in good condition con-
near Sultanahmet) to Güzelyalı (80 minutes, 20 TL).
nect the city to north (D575/E881, from İzmit, Yalova,
Alternatively, take the Ido ferry from the Kadıköy
and Istanbul, the shortest route from last of which in-
ferry terminal, that departs several time a day (from
volves taking a ferry to Yalova), west (D200/E90 from
1 TL if booked in advance, or 19 TL on the same
Balıkesir with a connection to D565 from İzmir in the
day).
southwest), and east (D200/E90 from Eskişehir and
Ankara, with a connection to D650 from Antalya in the • Güzelyalı is about 20 km from Bursa, and buses
south). meet the ferry to take passengers to Organize Sanayi
156.4. SEE 469
metro station (30 mins, 3 TL) in the outer suburbs

of the city.
• Take the metro to downtown Bursa — get off at

Şehreküstü station for the old section of the city
close to the market area (30 mins, 2 TL). The whole
journey from Istanbul to the centre of Bursa will
take about two and a half to three hours.
It’s also possible to transit through Yalova fast ferry jetty,

about an hour bus ride (which costs 9 TL pp) north of
Bursa.
Until recently, all of the ferries were operated by İDO,
once affiliated with the metropolitan municipality of Is-
tanbul, and now a private company. BUDO, owned by Orhan Gazi Mosque
the metropolitan municipality of Bursa, is now entering
the market as well. Tickets can be booked online. Blue Mosque of Istanbul built later. Ulucamii is per-
haps most renown for the striking calligraphic pan-
els that adorn its walls and columns as well as the
156.3 Get around fountain within the mosque whose trickling sounds
contribute to its serene atmosphere.
The city has a metro line connecting downtown with sub-
urbs in the northwest. There is also an extensive bus and • Orhan Camii ve Külliyesi (Orhan Mosque)
dolmuş network. The dolmuşes in Bursa are more likely
to be a normal looking white car with a sign on the roof • Yeşil Camii(Green Mosque)This mosque is in the
rather than the yellow minibuses that are common in Is- Yesil or 'green' district of Bursa just left over the
tanbul. bridge. It contains a wonderful Turbe or tomb com-
pletely covered by tiles inside and out. The mosque
The Bursa Metro is called Bursaray - for information in
opposite is very unusual in that it has a fountain in-
Turkish: Bursaray and a map
side the prayer area - with lots of legends attached
to it. It is also built in a cruciform shape. No one
knows why. Beside it are tea gardens with spectac-
156.4 See ular views over the Bursa valley and Uludag moun-
tain.
Mosques
• Emir Sultan Camii
• Muradiye Camii
• Hüdavendigar Camii
• Yıldırım Camii
• Koca Sinan Paşa
• İshak Paşa Külliyeleri
• Celal Bayar Müzesi
Tombs
Ulucami (great mosque) • Yeşil Türbe(Green Tomb) is the tomb of the Ot-
toman Sultan Mehmed I (1412-1420) and is the
iconic monument of the city.
• Ulucami (in downtown). The “great mosque” of
Bursa. Built in early Ottoman period, in 1399, it • Emir Sultan Türbesi
resembles more of earlier Seljuq buildings of inland
Anatolia than the typical Ottoman mosques such as • Gazi Timurtaş Paşa Türbesi
• Gazi Osman Türbesi is the tomb of the first Ot- • Darüzziyafe. A poorhouse during the Ottoman pe-
toman sultan located in the Tophane district riod, this building now serves as a family restaurant
(with no alcohol service).It is a stunningly restored
• Orhan Gazi Türbesi is the tomb of the second Ot- building in the Muradiye district of Bursa. The gar-
toman sultan, the son of Osman. It’s located im- den has wonderful views of Bursa. The cuisine is
mediately next to his father’s tomb in the Tophane pure Ottoman and difficult to find in a modern Turk-
district. ish city.
• The Muradiye Complex surrounding the Muradiye
Mosque is a small necropolis filled with tombs of il- • Sarı Konak In Tophane.
lustrious Ottoman figures such as Murat II; Prince
• Balıbey Han
Mustafa, son of Suleiman the Great; Gülbahar
Hanım, midwife of Mehmet the Conqueror and • Koza Han
various wives of sultans.
• Irgandı Köprüsü (Bridge)in Setbasi.Its an old
version of shopping malls.There are small shops
Historical Trees on bridge.
• İnkaya — a huge centuries-old (well, approximately

600 years, to be precisely) plane (Platanus orien- Old villages
talis) tree with an open-air café sheltered by its deep
shadow, on the foothills of (and just off the road to) • Cumalıkızık A village founded more than 700
Uludağ. years old. There are 265 centuries-old half timbered
houses in the village and approximately 190 of them
are still occupied.
Historical Buildings
156.5 Do
• Yeni Kaplica (Termal Hotel and Baths), Kukurtlu
Mh. Cekirge Cadd (Immediately down from the Ce-
lik Palais Hotel), ☎ 0224 2366968. An experience
not to be missed while visiting Bursa for anyone in-
terested in a relaxing thermal bath. The mineral
water boils up from below the extensive baths built
in 1555 and flows into a large central pool from a
lion’s head fixed into the wall. The baths are any-
thing but touristy but the staff are used to tourists.
Not a word of Turkish is necessary! The building
remains unchanged since it was built by the Vizer
'Kara Mustafa' or 'Black Mustafa'. It is a large multi
Koza Han (Silk Bazaar) roomed building with a wonderful sense of space
and proportion. it is modeled on the Roman Baths
rather than a hamam as pools - or non-flowing water
were never permitted under Islam. This is the ex-
ception. A good rubdown (kese) and a massage are
essential. Afterwards just go for a nap in one of the
beds provided wrapped in towels. Bliss. 12 tl.
156.5.1 Turkish Baths

Since Bursa lies on a geologically-active area, the place
is rich in mineral waters and accordingly is famous for its
traditional baths.
• Keçeli Hamamı. For women. More than 600 years

old and renewed.
Castle
• Umurbey Hamamı
156.8. DRINK 471
• Yeşil Hamamı 156.8 Drink

• Beyaz Saray Hamamı. For men. In Altıparmak.
The cafe at the gardens of Kozahan might be the most au-
• Kervan Saray Hamamı For Women and For thentic place in the city to have a Turkish coffee—which
Men, in CEKIRGE district.The Hamam has a might be what Queen Elizabeth II was thinking, who vis-
nice pool.Its so clean and hygienic. ited there in 2008.
156.6 Buy 156.9 Sleep

• Silk - one of the major industries of Bursa in the 156.9.1 Budget
past, this is still one of the major draws of Bursa.
• Açelya Hotel, İnönü Caddesi 73 (city center; from
• Koza Han (Silk Bazaar) (in downtown, very near the main bus terminal take bus 38, get off a
Ulucami). M-Sa 8AM-8PM. Silk bazaar dating few stops after the Grand Mosque), ☎ +90 224
back to 1491. Think of a very historical mall de- 223-01-66, fax: +90 224 221-42-75, e-mail:
voted only to silk. info@acelyahotel.com.tr. Clean and small hotel in
the city center. Homely atmosphere. You can walk
to Bazaar and historical places from the Hotel easily.
156.7 Eat
• Çeşmeli Hotel, Gümüşçeken Cad. 6, ☎ +90 224
Try the İskender kebap, a dish originated from Bursa. 224 15 11 - 12. right in the heart of Bursa in Heykel
İskender consists of roasted, sliced lamb spread atop this hotel is unusual in that it is owned by two sisters
diced bread pieces, topped with tomato sauce, served and all the employees are women. The Hotel gets it’s
with yoghurt. A similar dish, meatballs instead of sliced name “with drinking fountain” from the fountain in
lamb only, would be Pideli Köfte which is definitely the wall of the hotel - much appreciated by locals in
cheaper and perhaps more delicious. Go to Kayhan Car- the summer. I've updated the price so that you have
sisi, very close to Heykel, for best options. Candied the most current information. 150 TL.
Chestnut is the best choice for dessert but sadly you can-
not get it from a restaurant.
156.9.2 Mid-range
• İskender, Ünlü Cadde (near Heykel). Restaurant is
named after the dish since the owners are descen- • Safran Otel, Ortapazar Cadessi, Arka Sok, 4 (just
dants of the person who “invented” the dish. inside Sultanat Kapi (old city wall gates)), ☎ 224-
7216, e-mail: safranhotel@mynet.com. Very nice
• Pidecioğlu, Bozkurt Caddesi (just off Altiparmak small hotel in a recently renovated old house close
Caddesi, near the Bursaspor stadium). Another good to the centre of town. Staff are very friendly and
İskender kebab restaurant. helpful. Rooms on the ground floor tend to be a little
noisy.
• Çiçek Izgara, Belediye Caddesi 15, Heykel. A meat
ball restaurant referred to by many Turkish novelists. Note that Googlemaps has this hotel listed twice with one
incorrect location. The correct location is just inside the
• Hacı Dayı is a kebab restaurant in the Tophane dis- city gate closest to the covered markets. 140TL double
trict with tasty dishes and large portion sizes for a with breakfast.
decent price. Look for it right behind the tombs of The best budget hotel you can stay is “Hotel Gonluferah”,
Osman and Orhan. around €70 per night, but having rooms with great views
of the city as the hotel is located on the way to the Uludag
mountain.
156.7.1 Budget
156.7.2 Mid-range
156.10 Connect
156.7.3 Splurge
The telephone code of the city is (+90) 224.
156.11 Stay safe • Armutlu — sea-side town with some hot springs to
north
Bursa is a safe city. But of course you should always be • Iznik (Nicaea/Nikaia) — historical town to east fea-
cautious if you're wandering alone in late night. turing old city walls, lakefront promenade, and the
church in which first and seventh ecumenical coun-
cils of early Christianity were convened
156.12 Cope
156.13 Go next
Other sites and places near the city include
• Uludag National Park (Uludağ Milli Parkı) — just

south of city, a wintersports resort and hiking desti-
nation
• Cumalıkızık — made into the UNESCO World

Heritage List together with Bursa itself, this well-
preserved and nice historic village east of the city
that dates back to the early Ottoman settlement in
the area (early 14th century) is an easy day-trip
thanks to the frequent public transport links with the
city centre
• Çekirge
• Oylat (Turkish Baths)
• Gemlik Kaplıcaları(Turkish Baths)
• Kumla(Beach)
• Kurşunlu Plajları(Beach)
• Prusa Kenti Surları(City Wall)
• Miletopolis (Karacabey)
• Mirlea (Mudanya)
• Kirmastı (Mustafa Kemal Paşa)
• Atranos (Orhaneli)
• Neopolis (Yenişehir) Koimesis, Hagios Kiliseleri

(Churches)
• Nikaia Nekropolü,
• Yıldırım Bedesteni (Yildirim Bazaar)
• Bursa Arkeoloji Müzesi (Bursa Archeology Mu-

seum)
• Bursa Atatürk Müzesi (Bursa Atatürk Museum)
• Bursa Türk İslam Eserleri Müzesi (Bursa Turk

Islamic Works Museum)
• Mudanya Mütareke Müzesi (Mudanya Armistice

Museum)
Chapter 157
Erdek
Erdek is a resort town on the southern coast of the Sea • Kyzikos (Cyzicus) (close to the highway between
of Marmara, in Southern Marmara Region, Turkey. Erdek and Bandırma). Once a major city of Mysia,
first built by Thessalian colonists and later expanded
by Romans, ruins of Kyzikos lies just southeast of
157.1 Understand Erdek, close to the tombolo that connects the penin-
sula with the mainland, and indeed dates back to the
time when the peninsula was still an island.
Erdek, historically known by its Greek name, Artaki, is
the principal town of rugged and wooded Kapıdağ Penin-
sula, which is connected to the rest of the mainland by a
marshy tombolo, and indeed was one of the Marmara Is- 157.5 Do
lands only about 2000 years ago.
Erdek was one of the most favoured domestic tourism 157.6 Buy
destinations in Turkey up until 1980s, when more and
more people started to “discover” Mediterranean and
Southern Aegean coasts, further afield from major popu- 157.7 Eat
lation centres of the country. However, Erdek is still quite
one of the major domestic summer resorts, especially for
mid-class families.
157.8 Drink
• Tourism Information Office (Turizm Danışma), ☎ 157.9 Sleep

+90 266 835-11-69.
• Öztoprak Motel, Kastri Mevkii, ☎ +90 266 855-
70-29, e-mail: info@oztoprakmotel.com. A fun
157.2 Get in family place with beachfront bungalows (somewhat
primitive, though) amidst gardens. Double room 70
TL/90 TL half-board/full-board.
Erdek is close to Bandirma, so one of the easiest ways to
get to Erdek from Istanbul is to take one of the fast fer-
ries operating between Istanbul and Bandirma, and then 157.9.1 Campgrounds
to catch a minibus to Erdek (which takes 20 minutes to
get to from Bandırma). • Abant Camping, Mangırcı Mevkii, ☎ +90 266 855
70 88.
157.3 Get around • Ant Camping, Düzler Mevkii (on the Erdek-
Bandırma highway, 6 km southeast of Erdek), ☎ +90
266 855-70-44, e-mail: aaloglu@yahoo.com. RV-
157.4 See camping in a pine woods right on the beach. Power
hook-ups, kitchen, wireless internet, and washing
• Open-Air Museum (Açık Hava Müzesi). machines are available. €12 per caravan/night, in-
cluding two adults.
• Zeytin (Zeytin Adası). Zeytin is a small islet covered
with pine trees 250 mt off the coast of downtown • Gökçe Turistik Tesisleri, ☎ +90 266 855 70 55.
Erdek. There are some marble ruins on it, including
a temple. • Ipek Camping, ☎ +90 266 855 71 64.
473
474 CHAPTER 157. ERDEK
• Kizikos Camping, ☎ +90 266 855 70 71.
• Ünlü Camping, Çuğra Mevkii, ☎ +90 266 835 17

49.
• Yesilim Camping, Çuğra Mevkii, ☎ +90 266 835

30 04.
157.10 Connect
(+90) 266 is Erdek’s telephone code.
157.11 Go next
From Erdek, there are regular ferries to Marmara Is-
lands (takes about 1hr 45min) and further out to Tekirdağ
which is located on the opposite coast of the Sea of Mar-
mara.
Chapter 158
Gönen
Gönen is a city in Southern Marmara, Turkey. Tekirdağ) claim their town is where höşmerim is na-
tive to. The truth is höşmerim is likely a dessert orig-
inating from Balkans (and these towns are all heav-
158.1 Get in ily settled by the descendants of immigrants from
Balkans), and is not to be missed wherever you can
get your hand on to one. Make sure to have it topped
Gönen is 80 km northwest of Balikesir.
by ice cream.

158.3 See 158.8 Sleep
• Open-Air Museum (Açık Hava Müzesi). Exhibi- • Dermal Hotel.
tion of this museum include artifacts founded in the
excavations of ancient thermal bath ruins.
• Park Hotel.
158.4 Do • Yildiz Hotel.
Hot Springs (Kaplıca) — Gönen is mostly known for its

thermal springs which have been in continuous use since
158.9 Connect
the Romans. Temperature of the slightly alkaline thermal
water is 52°C, with a pH value of 7.36. The thermal water 158.10 Go next
is hyperthermal, and hypertonic, and is known to contain
copious amounts of sulphur, chlorine, bicarbonate, and
sodium. It can be applied both internally (i.e. by drink-
ing) and externally (i.e. by having a bath). It’s said to help
heal liver, gall bladder and kidney ailments by drinking,
and rheumatism, infections of the large intestine, harden-
ing of the arteries and neurological and vascular compli-
cations by bathing.
158.5 Buy
158.6 Eat
• Höşmerim is a quite famous dessert, made of spe-
cial cheese, saffron, and semolina. While the locals
obviously think Gönen is the origin of höşmerim, na-
tives of surrounding towns and cities (e.g., Balıkesir,
Bandırma), as well as of those further away (e.g.,
475
Chapter 159
Gemlik
Gemlik is a city at the eastern end of the Gulf of Gemlik, 159.2.3 By boat
in the Southern Marmara.
There are fast ferry services between Istanbul’s Yenikapı
Pier and Gemlik. These services are only for pessen-
gers (no cars accepted) and also call at some other towns
159.1 Understand nearby too. See İDO’s homepage:
If you are arriving overland, to shorten total travel time
Gemlik was once the site of the ancient Greek city of
you may consider taking car ferries between Yenikapi
Kios/Cius.
(European side) or Pendik (Asian side) or Eskihisar
Gemlik is sandwiched by the Samanlı Mountains to the (Asian side, about 30 km to Istanbul) and Yalova. Then
north, and the Katırlı Mountains to the south, with the there remains a road which can be taken in about 30 min-
Gulf of Gemlik, a southeastern inlet of the Sea of Mar- utes.
mara, widening towards the open sea westwards from the
town. It’s because of this particular topography that you
will briefly and unexpectedly see the sea in Gemlik while 159.3 Get around
travelling between Yalova and Bursa. This gave life to the
three-liner of the Turkish poet Orhan Veli Kanık (1914–
1950), "Towards Gemlik / You'll see the sea / Don't be 159.4 See
surprised", which is much celebrated locally.
Today, Gemlik strives to be yet another smoggy, charac- • Kios. Ruins of an ancient Greek city near Gemlik.
terless industrial suburb of Bursa, and have already taken
a lot of ground in achieving that, which is unfortunate,
given its wonderful setting, which could provide it with 159.5 Do
more environmentally-friendly sources of income.
Asking directions to the locals will seldom provide mean-
ingful answers here, sadly, even if you speak Turkish.
159.6 Buy
The town is known for the oliveyards surrounding it. So
you can buy locally-produced stuff that are olive-related,
159.2 Get in like olive oil, castile soap, or brined olive.
159.2.1 By car
159.7 Eat
The town is located on the main Istanbul – Bursa highway
(numbered D575).
159.8 Drink
159.2.2 By bus Along the seaside you can find various pubs and cafes.
Mostly tea species(black tea, herbal teas...) are around 1
There are buses or minibuses from Istanbul, Yalova and TRY.
Bursa. These buses either head for Gemlik itself, or head
for one of the aforementioned cities and pass through
Gemlik. In any case, you can buy a ticket for Gemlik 159.9 Sleep
and get off there.
476
159.11. GO NEXT 477
159.10 Connect
The area code for Gemlik is 224.
159.11 Go next
• Armutlu, which is about 25 km west of Gemlik, on
the coast of the Sea of Marmara, is known for its
thermal springs.
• İznik to the east is a historical town on a lake shore,
with city walls and the church in which were con-
vened first and seventh ecumenical councils of early
Christianity.
Chapter 160
Geyikli
Geyikli is a village on an elevated plateau slightly inland quick growth of the chemical industry came the synthetic
in the Troad Peninsula of Southern Marmara, south of the dyes, and the acorn trade decreased as a result. The har-
regional hub of Çanakkale. Southwest of Geyikli proper bour changed to exporting charcoal, then, which lead to
is the coastal suburb of Odunluk İskelesi, a small collec- wide destruction of the oak forests of the area. Later it
tion of low-lying housing developments (used by Turkish became the connection point for Bozcaada with the main-
families from elsewhere in the country during summers) land, and the major port for exporting the wine of the
and a few old stone-built warehouses that were witnesses island. Now its short breakwater shelters fishing vessels.
of the times gone-by when this was the main port of the
Dalyan, a very small coastal village surrounded by pine
area. Further south from Odunluk İskelesi is the small woods, is another 3 km south of Odunluk İskelesi, also
fishing village of Dalyan. with its own harbour. It is the nearest modern settlement
While these communities fronting the sea are as good to ancient Alexandria Troas, but does not stand on the
as any others for a swim on this stretch of the northern exact same location.
Aegean coastline, the main reason for a visit here would As with other easily-accessible communities on the Turk-
be taking a ferry across to the island of Bozcaada (Tene- ish coasts, around and between these villages, especially
dos) from Geyikli’s modern harbour, or visiting the ruins along the beaches, lie numerous housing developments of
of Alexandria Troas, which lie scattered along the road usually two-storey houses, each with small plots packed
east of Dalyan. around a central garden, road or carpark. The residents
of these estates most often stay only during the summer,
when they escape the hot and humid air of the cities where
160.1 Understand they make abode during the rest of the year.
Geyikli, with its primarily agricultural population of over

3,000, is one of the principal towns of its surrounding re- 160.2 Get in
gion. It took its name from Geyikli Baba (“father with
deers”), a dervish who raised deers in the area in c. 14th 160.2.1 By bus
century, during the days of the Karasids (a small Turk-
ish kingdom ruled in the post-Byzantine Troad) and the During summer months, at least two daily buses make it
early Ottoman expansion. His recently restored shrine all the way from Istanbul through Geyikli to the ferries
now rests among the oliveyards 2 km southeast of the vil- to Bozcaada at the Yükyeri İskelesi. Keep in mind that
lage. Fans of Turkish cinema will immediately recognize it might take around 7 hours despite the relatively short
the name of Geyikli, as the 2010 comedy Eyyvah Eyvah distance, due to the numerous stops the buses make in
and its sequel Eyyvah Eyvah 2 were filmed in Geyikli and the towns on the way. If for some reason you miss this
the surrounding region, and are honoured by a community connection, the main hub for the region is the town of
park named after them in the centre of the village. Ezine on the main highway south of Çanakkale, and rela-
West of Geyikli, 4 km below on the coast, is the large tively well connected with the rest of the country. There
harbour of Yükyeri İskelesi (“freight harbour”), built in should be a minibus at least until 21:00 departing there
1990s and from where the car ferries to Bozcaada now for Geyikli during the high season.
depart.
Odunluk İskelesi (“wood harbour”), 4.5 km south of 160.2.2 By car
Yükyeri and 5.5 km southwest of Geyikli, was the main
harbour of the area, much smaller than that of Yükyeri, Two roads connect Geyikli with the main Çanakkale–
its main export commodity being oak nuts, which were Izmir highway (D550/E87): one of them branches off
prized in Europe for dye production. However, with the just south of the junction for Troy (look for signposts
478
160.4. SEE 479
for Bozcaada there), and the other just south of Ezine. as 100,000 people (an impressive number for the antiq-
(There is also an older third road connecting with the lat- uity) thanks to the easy business conducted by the har-
ter of the listed above, passing right through the down- bour. It’s not hard to see why: in the days when the wind
town Ezine, but it’s no longer signposted from the main power was the main source of energy for long-distance
highway.) Both roads are in a quite good shape. travel, you might had to wait for the blow from the right
direction for weeks, or even months, for a passage to the
Black Sea through the Straits of Dardanelles, which of-
160.3 Get around ten has northerly winds and strong currents. However,
this wasn't an easy task as there were practically no har-
bours on the western coasts of the Troad Peninsula, and
The roads connecting the two ports with Geyikli are fairly the only available port close enough to the mouth of the
good. The road leading south to Dalyan and Alexandria Straits, the small harbour of the island of Tenedos, of-
Troas less so, being a narrow and twisting road full of pot- fered little protection from the strong north wind. Hence
holes through the woods, but with a bit of careful driving, the idea of the Neandreians to dig up the coastal marsh-
is easily negotiable by a standard family car. lands to create a deep cove as a safe harbour in this place,
All settlements reportedly have (infrequent) minibus con- which made Alexandria Troas so rich, powerful, and well-
nections with Geyikli, the trickiest part to get to being known that the Roman emperor Julius Caesar (r. 49-
Dalyan, and especially Alexandria Troas, where a car at 44 BCE) is said to have considered proclaiming here his
your disposal will come real handy. Otherwise, be ready new capital, and the latter Constantine I (r. 306-337
for lengthy waits on roadsides exposed to the elements. If CE) had visited the city himself for the same purpose as
all else fails, just stick your thumb out, as with other parts well, but eventually deciding in favour of the city of his
of decidedly little travelled rural Turkey, the drivers are name, Constantinople (Istanbul), on the Bosphorus. (Cu-
fairly helpful there. riously, Ottomans named the ruins of Alexandria Troas
as Eski Stambul, “the old Istanbul”, and the surrounding
area as Kestanbol, which might even be a corruption of
160.4 See Constantinople itself.) Connecting the Macedonian coasts
directly with the Troad, thus Europe with Asia Minor, so
the travellers could avoid crossing through the territory
Well, there is a couple of half-ruined stone warehouses of the warlike Thracian tribes, Troas was an important
close to the port at Odunluk İskelesi, where the acorns forwarding point in the Roman postal system, and among
were once stored before being exported, and a nice but the many travellers who used this direct link to Europe
otherwise unremarkable allee south of the port (eventu- was Paul the Apostle, on his second journey.
ally leading to Dalyan), shaded by some old stone pines
on both sides, and not much else to see... except, of It’s not exactly known when and under what circum-
course, the scant ruins of Alexandria Troas, some of stances the city was abandoned, but it should have been
which eerily stand deep in dense oak scrubland, where depopulated as rapidly as it flourished, like many other
a visit will provide quite a sensation of coming close to settlements through the history which grew a little bit too
what the eyes of the pioneer travellers of the centuries hastily after an economic boom that took root from a
past should have met with. single resource. What is for sure is that the increasing
competition of Constantinople for the trade links between
the East and the West resulted much loss of power for
160.4.1 Alexandria Troas Troas and its traditional rival nearby, Troy. The harbour,
which now is a shallow lagoon (known by the locals as
Understand Pembe Göl, “the pink lake”, due to the seasonal coloura-
tion formed by the microorganisms inhabiting the hyper-
Founded by Antigonus in 306 BCE and expanded later saline water) cut off from the open sea by a sandbar just
by Lysimachus (both high-ranking officers in Alexander’s south of the modern harbour of Dalyan, should have been
army), Alexandria Troas (“Alexandria in the Troad"; silted up by this time.
the city was colloquially known as Troas in its heyday, In the following centuries, Alexandria Troas was often
though) was one of the about 20 cities in the Old World viewed as a quarry with ready to use stones lying about—
that was named after the Macedonian ruler. (Interest- its columns made their way as far as to the New Mosque
ingly, Alexander’s army was one of the very few through- in Istanbul’s Old City. In the 18th to the late 19th century,
out the history that made the crossing between Europe when the bathhouse building was still completely intact,
and Asia on the Dardanelles instead of the narrower it served as the retreat of the local bandits.
Bosphorus to the northeast.) Troas was built around an
artificial harbour originally created and operated by the The archaeological excavations started just in 2003.
city of Neandreia on the highlands of the peninsular inte-
rior to the east (See the "Go next" section below for more Get in
details on this place), and quickly grew to house as much
480 CHAPTER 160. GEYIKLI
See
160.5 Do
160.6 Buy
160.7 Eat
160.8 Drink
160.9 Sleep
160.10 Connect
160.11 Go next
Chapter 161
Kumla (Turkey)
Kumla is in Southern Marmara, 15 km away from the

town of Gemlik.
161.1 Get in
161.1.1 By bus
There are buses from Gemlik to Kumla every 20 mins
between 7AM to 10PM.
161.2 See
161.3 Do
Go to the hill named Aşıklar Tepesi (“lovers’ hill”) that
is known for its view day and night. Sometimes it could
be annoying though to hear the loud music blasting from
the cars of local guidos.
161.4 Buy
161.5 Eat
161.6 Drink
161.7 Sleep
161.8 Connect
481
Chapter 162
Sindirgi
Sındırgı is a town in deep interior Southern Marmara,

edging on the northern border of Aegean Region in
Turkey.
162.1 Get in
162.2 Get around
162.3 See
162.4 Do
Hot Springs (Kaplıca)— Like surrounding towns and
cities, Sındırgı, too, is rich in thermal waters.
• Emendere Thermal Spring.
• Hisaralan Thermal Spring.
162.5 Buy
Local eau de cologne (kolonya) and Yağcı Bedir rugs and
carpets are local stuff that is hard to find elsewhere.
162.6 Eat
162.7 Drink
162.8 Sleep
162.9 Connect
162.10 Go next
482
Chapter 163
Troy (Turkey)
with the Black Sea, as well as being where European and

Asian landmasses are just a stone’s throw away from each
other.
The abduction of Helen, the daughter of the king of
Sparta, by Paris, a Trojan prince, sparked enmity be-
tween the Trojans and Achaeans from across the Aegean
Sea, or so says the story. Having been unable to break into
the defensive walls of the city, the Achaeans decided to
set up a trick—they offered a huge wooden horse as a gift
to the Trojans, as amends for the bother they caused with
their war galleys on the city’s beach. Trojans accepted the
offer sincerely, but this resulted in them losing their city,
as inside of the horse were of Achaean soldiers, ready to
fight, and now right in the centre of the city.
Trojan Horse at the entrance of the site
There actually was a Trojan War, which probably took
place in the 12th century BC, and it was around this time
Troy (Turkish: Truva or Troya) is an ancient city in what
Hittite Wilusa was converted to Hellenic Illion, and later
is now northwestern Turkey, made famous in Homer’s
Troia. However, for some reason, all later invaders from
epic poem, the Iliad. According to the Iliad, this is where
all directions, with the notable exception of Alexander
the legendary Trojan War took place. Today it is an ar-
the Great (whose officers founded the city of Alexandria
chaeological site popular with travellers from all over the
Troas on the coast south of Troy), favoured the Bospho-
world, and in addition to being a Turkish national park,
rus to the northeast instead of the Dardanelles for their in-
it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
tercontinental crossings. The Roman emperor Constan-
While Troy is one of the most famous ancient sites in tine I (r. 306-337) agreed as well, founding a new capital
Turkey (perhaps along with Ephesus), keep your expecta- for his empire, Constantinople, on the banks of Bospho-
tions in check upon visiting here. You won't find the glory rus. As Constantinople flourished, its geographical rival
of the shiny marble columns common in many other sites Troy declined, eventually disappearing under layers of
of antiquity, but it helps to think of the ruins as a memo- dirt.
rial to all the wars that people had to suffer and had the
Since the days of Byzantine Empire, Troy was thought to
reduction of cities to rubble numerous times throughout
be nothing but Homer’s pure imagination, but in 1868,
the history.
Heinrich Schliemann, a German businessman and a
self-proclaimed archaeologist, proved otherwise, after
taking the hint that Troy might be a real place buried un-
163.1 Understand der the Hisarlık Hill from Frank Calvert, a British archae-
ologist who visited the site three years earlier. As Schlie-
The first city on the site of Troy was Wilusa, founded mann’s excavations were totally amateurish, it damaged
in the 3rd millennium BC by the Hittites, who were the the integrity of much of the remains, but Schliemann ob-
first indigenous Anatolian people to rise to form a state tained what he yearned for anyway—his Greek spouse
during the Bronze Age. Situated over the Hisarlık Hill Sophia Schliemann is immortalized in a photo showing
on the northwestern tip of Troad Peninsula, it was clear her wearing the treasures found at the Hisarlık Hill (part
that the reason for the city’s existence in the first place of the treasure was later taken by the Red Army from
was a total control of Dardanelles, which, along with the Berlin to Moscow at the end of World War II).
Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus, is today known as Although almost a century and a half passed since the
the Turkish Straits, a key route connecting Mediterranean
483
484 CHAPTER 163. TROY (TURKEY)
days of Schliemann, Troy still hasn't been unearthed com- Troy was destroyed and rebuilt nine times over, and each
pletely, and the excavation works still continue to this day. of nine different layers still has something left to this
Once a harbour city on the edge of a deep bay of the Dar- day, although amateurish archaeological excavations of
danelles, the site now lies 5 km inland from the coast due late 1800s damaged some of them a lot more than oth-
to the alluvial material carried by the River Scamander ers. The layer that is thought to be depicted in Homer’s
(modern Karamenderes), which filled the bay, turning it Iliad is likely Troy VII, a portion of the legendary walls
into the fertile, flat farmland stretching out to the sea that of which is still intact.
it is. The admission fee to the site is 15 TL pp. Make sure
In modern Turkish, there is a tendency to shift of the that you don't accept any of the 'old' Turkish money as
name of the site from Truva, which reflects the pronun- change from the admission office. You won't be able to
ciation of the French name of the place (Troie) as that use it outside of Troy (for some reason certain locations
was the language of choice among the Turkish elite up to still accept and distribute the old 'New Turkish Lira') and
the 1950s, to Troya, which is closer to the original Greek you will have to change it at a bank.
name, although both can still be heard interchangeably.
163.5 Do
163.2 Get in
Climbing up the ladders of (fake, re-constructed) Trojan
The nearest main center is Çanakkale, about 35 km to horse in the entrance of the site is an inevitable part of
the north of Troy. There are minibuses that travel to and Troy experience. Better do it on weekdays as the lad-
from the Çanakkale local bus station, which is located ders (and the interior of the horse itself) may be crowded
under the bridge by the river. The trip takes about 45 at weekends by schoolchildren on a schooltrip (a situa-
minutes. From Çanakkale, the minibuses are scheduled tion which makes climbing up and down those steep stairs
(as of 2012/01) to leave every hour starting at 7AM with rather unpleasant). Winter is a fantastic time to visit Troy,
the last one at 3PM. To get back, they leave hourly starting as there are very few tourists around and you may even get
at 9:30AM with the last one leaving at 5:30PM. An up the fake horse to yourself.
to date schedule can be found in the Tourist Information
office in Çanakkale near the ferry port.
163.6 Buy
163.2.1 By car
The site is 5 km off the main Çanakkale-Izmir high- 163.7 Eat

way (D550/E87), with which it is connected by a road
through a nice pastoral landscape. Road signs (saying ei- • Wilusa Restaurant, Tevfikiye, ☎ +90 286 283 00
ther Truva, Troya, Troy, or Troia, sometimes two of them 44, fax: +90 286 217 84 89. Turkish fast food.
on the same signpost) will direct you, starting from the
ferry harbour in Çanakkale. Note that there is no sign-
post on the approach to the junction where the road to
Troy branches off the main highway (except one brown 163.8 Drink
sign right inside the junction), so lower your speed and
expect the junction anytime when you are 30 km or so
out of Çanakkale. 163.9 Sleep
• Varol Pansiyon, Tevfikiye, ☎ +90 286 283-08-28,

163.3 Get around e-mail: rehagirgin@hotmail.com. Guesthouse with
24-hr hot water.
The path through the ruins is well marked, but quite rocky
and slippery in places. Be sure to wear proper walking • Troia Pension & Camping, ☎ +90 286 283-05-71.
shoes. Campsite for caravans, motorhomes, and tents. Mo-
tel rooms available. Hot showers, laundry, electric
hook-up, free Wi-Fi.
163.4 See
Staying in Çanakkale and visiting Troy as a day-trip is
Explore the ruins. also possible.
163.11. GO NEXT 485
163.10 Connect
There are public payphones just off the entrance of the
ancient city. Telephone code for the area is (+90) 286.
163.11 Go next
• Fans of the Iliad (as well as nature lovers) will likely
find nearby Mount Ida (to the southeast of Troy) in-
teresting, where gods watched the epic fight below
on the fields of Troad, as well as where Paris picked
the most beautiful one of three goddesses. Both the
northern (through the town of Bayramiç) and south-
ern (from various villages lining the northern coast
of the Gulf of Edremit) approaches to the mountain
are worth checking.
• Bozcaada, or ancient Tenedos, an island in the

Aegean Sea with a nicely preserved old town and
a Venetian castle, is located nearby (within the sight
of bare eyes from Troy). Geyikli harbour, which has
a ferry connection with Bozcaada, is only ten or so
kilometres away from Troy, to the south.
• Çanakkale, the hub and the main city of the Troad

Peninsula, should be one of your next destinations if
you have not already arrived from that direction.
• You can also keep moving southwards via backcoun-

try roads along the coast, passing pleasant villages
and a number of ancient Greek ruins among some
pretty nice Mediterranean landscapes.
Chapter 164
Uludağ
In medieval times, Uludağ served as a hermitage to Chris-

tian monks, which explains why it was named Keşiş Dağı
(“Mountain of the Monks”) in Ottoman Turkish. It was
also this time when, in the absence of refrigators, the ice
harvested from the mountain made its way to the imperial
kitchen in Istanbul’s Topkapı Palace. The mountain was
later renamed Uludağ, which translates “Great Mountain”
(“great” being more in the sense of “grand”), in 1935,
about a decade after the Turkish Republic was founded.
Uludağ was the first (and, still the most popular) winter-
sports resort in Turkey, with the first guesthouses aimed
at skiing enthusiasts opening in 1940s. It was declared a
national park in 1961, but that didn't fully stop tourism
The summit of Uludağ as seen from a tranquil meadow afar
developments.
Uludağ (pronounced oo loo daa) is a national park and

wintersports resort in Southern Marmara of Turkey. 164.1.2 Landscape
Northern side of the mountain overlooking the city of

Bursa (though you should be darn lucky to have a glimpse
164.1 Understand of the city from most locations on the mountain) is dotted
with a number of flat plateaus around 1,600 mt above the
With its 2,543 mt/8,343 ft summit, Uludağ is the high- sea level: Sarıalan (the main daily-use area and where
est mountain of northwestern Turkey. There are some cable cars from Bursa terminate), Kadıyayla (where the
reports and photos that claims its summit is visible from cable car pauses before heading forward to Sarıalan),
Istanbul about 150 km north as the crow flies on clear Karabelen (when approaching by road, the national park
days, though this is usually not the case due to humidity. gate is situated here), and Kirazlıyayla (the first plateau
Uludağ has two sides to it: On one side, it’s an untouched after the park gate) among others.
natural beauty of forests, hills, and rocks overlooked by The southern slopes of the mountain is far steeper and is
eagles and on the other it’s a heavily-used resort of winter- less accessible.
sports. One might argue there is a third side as well, the
relatively small-sized but well-used daily-use areas that
are filled with kebab-odour that disseminate from grills 164.1.3 Flora and fauna
of open-air restaurants.
Uludağ is one of the places where school geography text-
books come true: the mountain has belts of different
164.1.1 History types of vegetation varying with the elevation. The lowest
slopes bordering Bursa, up to 350 mt above the sea level is
Uludağ was one of the twenty-odd mountains around covered with Mediterranean shrubs (maquis), such as lau-
the eastern half of Mediterranean basin that used to rel trees. Between 350 through 700 mt, it’s the warm tem-
be called Olympos in ancient times—more precisely perate decidious forests dominated by chestnut trees (this
Mysian Olympos in this case, Mysia being the ancient zone is where most of those delicious chestnut desserts
name of the region what is about eastern two-thirds of unique to Bursa originates from). It’s the time for cool
Southern Marmara today. temperate decidious woods between 700 to 1,500 mt,
486
164.3. FEES/PERMITS 487
Fir forests of Uludağ Cable car to Uludağ
dominated by beech trees. 1,500 to 2,100 mt is the high-

The narrow (wide enough for vehicles to pass side by side
est belt that still allow trees to grow, dominated by the
though) and tarmac road from Bursa (with signs pointing
Turkish firs (Abies nordmanniana subsp. bornmuelleri- it all around the city) winds on the side of the mountain
ana), which have their widest distribution in northwestern
for 22 km until it arrives at the national park gate at
Turkey in the world. Tree-less and fragile alpine mead-
Karabelen. After the gate, it turns into—or rather isn't
ows cover the areas of mountain above 2,100 mt. upgraded from since it was opened—a cobbled road, pre-
Bears, wolves, deers, and eagles among others are the sumably to force drivers to lower their speed, so that driv-
dwellers of Uludağ. ing under icy conditions in winter on this winding road is
safe. The cobbled road lasts for 8 km until Sarıalan, or
12 km until Oteller (area where all hotels are clustered).
164.1.4 Climate In winter, vehicles without tire chains may not be al-
lowed to go further than park gate if park authorities de-
As you may be expecting, Uludağ is far chillier than cide so (which usually do so in heavily-snowing days).
nearby Bursa thanks to its elevation. The wintersports Fortunately, you'll see a lot of stalls run by local people
season, especially skiing, is between October and April, on sides of the road which sell chains—though they'll for
with a guaranteed stable snowcover and constant below sure try to rip you off if it’s one of those no-cars-without-
freezing temperatures between December and March. A chains days (like trying to sell the chain for up to 100 TL,
summer day that is sweltering hot in Bursa is likely to be whereas it would cost about 15 TL elsewhere). Whether
cool enough that makes it really uncomfortable without a snowy day or not, winter driving rules apply.
at least a cardigan outdoors in Uludağ during the day and
The famed cable cars (teleferik) going up to the moun-
definitely at night.
tain is curretly under renovation, and will not be back in
service until at least November, 2013. That leaves you
with the only public transport option of 15-person dol-
164.2 Get in muşes from Bursa, which have no fixed hours, and depart
when full. Their departure stop is in Tophane, next to
the Saltanatkapı gate of old city walls. It takes around
50 minutes to get to Oteller, their last stop in Uludağ, by
these dolmuşes and a one-way trip costs 9 TL pp. There
are also dolmuş taksis with a capacity of four passengers
available, which naturally have less waiting times until
they are full, and which cost 15 TL pp one-way.
164.3 Fees/Permits
A flat rate—which doesn't depend on the number of

passengers—for vehicles is charged at the national park
Autumn colours along the cobbled road to Uludağ gate. Bigger the vehicle, more expensive the fee (though
not prohibitively so).
488 CHAPTER 164. ULUDAĞ
164.4 Get around many other wintersports resorts around the world, there is
not a universal teleski pass system in Uludağ, so you may
Minibuses (dolmuş) are available from Sarıalan cable car have to pay each time you use a teleski unless you are us-
station to Oteller area, about 10 km away and where all ing your hotel’s own, although there are daily passes valid
of the hotels are located. for each individual teleskis, which cost 80 TL a day.
2-person gondola lifts (telesiyej) start from their separate Skiing equipment can be rented on the mountain for 15-
station next to the cable car station in Sarıalan and head to 25 TL a day.
Çobankaya plateau 3 km away and about 100 mt higher
than Sarıalan. A return ticket on gondola lift line costs 10
164.6.2 Hiking
TL pp, with a 50% reduction for children aged 7-12.
Although none of them waymarked, there is a number
of hiking trails on the mountain, with the most popular
164.5 See ones being the trail through the forest from Sarıalan to
Çobankaya and the trail above the treeline to the glacial
• At Bakacak Plateau a kilometre north of lakes and the summit, which you can start from the aban-
Çobankaya—where gondola lifts from Sarıalan doned wolfram mine (location simply known as Volfram)
terminate; accessible by a paved road from there east of Oteller area (there are two ways to get to Volfram
as well as from Oteller area—you can have a from Oteller: a footpath starting from 1. Gelişim Böl-
large overlooking view of the region around gesi, or a car-accessible road starting from 2. Gelişim
the mountain, including the city of Bursa just Bölgesi). Volfram to lakes and summit hike is reported
north of Uludağ, and Lake Apollonia (Apolyont to take place along a non-waymarked but obvious trail
Gölü or Ulubat Gölü in Turkish), about 50 km to which forks in about an hour and a half after you started
west. On your way there, you may also check out walking: trail to right leads to the summit—the roof of
Çobankaya—literally “shepherd’s rock”—itself, northwestern Turkey where you can catch a glimpse of
a huge granite boulder, situated on the side of the part of the distinctive crocodile-like shape of the Sea of
road. Marmara and a distant silhouette of Istanbul beyond on
clear days—while the one to left leads to the lakes—four
of them roughly in a row, most of which are partly ice-
covered even in the height of summer unless in an excep-
164.6 Do tional year. Hiking Volfram to either location is said to
take around 3 hours—though those wishing to see both
The “two sides” of Uludağ is also evident in the activities the summit and the lakes close-up better take their camp-
it offers: in wintertime it’s skiing down the white slopes, ing gear with them since, although near each other, hiking
in summertime it’s taking a walk amidst the woods. to both locations and then back at the same day is said to
be demanding.
164.6.1 Skiing
164.7 Buy
There are a number of kiosks/grocery stores on the moun-
tain, although like almost anything else offered by com-
mercial establishments in Uludağ, they provide snacks
and drinks for about three times of what you'd pay else-
where.
164.8 Eat
Around Sarıalan is a number of open-air Kendin Pişir
Kendin Ye (“Cook it yourself!") restaurants mostly
favoured by Middle Eastern (especially Saudi) families
Teleskis and skiing tracks of Uludağ with the hotels at the back
where you buy your meat by kilo and rent a grill with
Uludağ is the oldest wintersports resort of the country some charcoal and cook your kebab yourself. Most, if
with the first hotel opened in 1940s. Uludağ offers a num- not all, of these restaurants are open round the year.
ber of tracks between fir trees, each with a different level Otherwise, all hotels in Uludağ are full-board and you'll
of hardness. Lots of teleskis are available, though unlike have your meals in your hotel.
164.11. STAY SAFE 489
164.9 Drink e-mail: sales@grandyazici.com. Rooms with en-

suite bathrooms, satellite TV, central heating, and
The cafés and bars of the hotels are open to anyone (for safeboxes. The hotel offers skiing training and
a fee, unless you stay there, of course). Expect to pay equipment rental, and also has teleskis free of charge
dearly, though—a cup of coffee can easily cost 15 TL in (for customers) operating 9AM-5PM.
winter.
• Kartanesi Otel, 2. Gelişim Bölgesi, Oteller, ☎ +90
224 285-25-21, fax: +90 224 285-23-57, e-mail:
164.10 Sleep info@kartanesiotel.com. Rooms with en-suite bath-
rooms, and safeboxes. Disabled-accessible rooms
are also available. Hotel offers indoors swimming
Although a national park, being a wintersports resort
pool, sauna, movie theater, skiing equipment rental,
means that those preferring a luxurious bed rather than
skiing training, carpark, and five teleski lines and
a bumpy mat under the tentfloor won't be disappointed in
two gondola lines accessing to tracks with interme-
Uludağ.
diate and advanced hardness.
164.10.1 Lodging • Monte Baia Uludağ, 2. Gelişim Bölgesi, Oteller,

☎ +90 224 285-23-83, fax: +90 224 285-22-02, e-
All hotels in Uludağ are located in Oteller (literally “ho- mail: monte@baiahotels.com. Rooms with en-suite
tels”) area, which is divided into 1. Gelişim Bölgesi, bathrooms, satellite TV, heating, safeboxes, and car-
the older development area and 2. Gelişim Bölgesi, the pet floors. Hotel offers five teleski and two gondola
newer development area with a few km inbetween. 1. lift lines. Skiing training, baby sitting service, in-
Gelişim Bölgesi is reported to be livelier than 2. Gelişim doors swimming pool, spa&wellness centre, wire-
Bölgesi. Many hotels in Uludağ, though, are aimed at less internet connection, internet cafe, conference
skiers and thus are closed during summer. rooms, carpark are among what is available in the
hotel.
• Ağaoğlu My Resort, ☎ +90 224 285-20-01, e-
mail: info@agaoglumyresort.com.tr. Rooms with
central heating, wireless internet connection, TV.
164.10.2 Camping
Hotel offers conference rooms, its own skiing track
Organized campgrounds run by Turkish Ministry of
and a number of teleskis, and indoors swimming
Forestry can be found in Sarıalan and in Çobankaya, in
pool.
somewhat cramped and relatively crowded conditions,
which goes for a nightly fee of 10 TL per tent.
• Atasu Otel, 1. Gelişim Bölgesi, Oteller, ☎ +90
224 285-20-71, fax: +90 224 285-20-73, e-mail:
atasu@atasuotel.com.tr. Rooms with en-suite bath- 164.10.3 Backcountry
rooms, central heating, satellite TV, wireless inter-
net connection, and a minibar (with everything in it It’s possible to wild camp pretty much anywhere in the
free of charge!). Skiing and snowboarding equip- mountain as long as you are out of the tourism develop-
ment rental is available. ment zones (namely the cluster of restaurants at Sarıalan,
the official campground at Çobankaya, and the conglom-
• Otel Beceren, Oteller, ☎ +90 224 285-21-11, fax: eration of hotels at Oteller) and the obvious trails—and,
+90 224 285-21-19, e-mail: info@beceren.com.tr. indeed, wild camping is your only option in the sum-
A hotel open year-round, offering rooms with satel- mit and the glacial lakes area. However, this said area,
lite TV. Hotel has a skiing equipment rental service, along with the others above the tree line, is covered with
conference rooms, and day-care for children. alpine meadows, some of the most fragile ecosystems in
the world, so it’s important to follow leave-no-trace guide-
• Otel Fahri, ☎ +90 224 285-20-10, fax: +90 224 lines there.
285-20-18, e-mail: info@otelfahri.com. Family-
run hotel offering rooms with en-suite bathrooms,
satellite TV, internet connection, and forest view. 164.11 Stay safe
Hotel also offers its own teleski and skiing track
with cafes at both ends, sauna, and children day care • A heavy fog can quickly set on any day in Uludağ,
room. even on a perfectly sunny one. With the loss of sight
of natural distinguishers, it becomes fairly hard to
• Hotel Grand Yazıcı, 1. Gelişim Bölgesi, Oteller, follow the trails, especially on the higher meadows
☎ +90 224 285-20-50, fax: +90 224 285-20-48, of the mountain, so stay ahead of weather forecasts
490 CHAPTER 164. ULUDAĞ
if you're planning to hike. If you are trapped in fog,

the best would be to wait until it goes away—it can
rise as quick as it forms.
• Bear encounters may take place in the remoter parts

of the mountain.
• A related danger, perhaps more frightening than the

bears themselves, are bear traps. These are not
the violent type that ruptures the legs when closed,
but wire meshes set in a large area, that keep the
unfortunate bear that happened to walk in motion-
less by wrapping all around its body. Keep these
in mind if you'll hike away from the established
trails, especially in the lower foothills near the vil-
lages, and make sure you have accustomed to your
surroundings before the night falls, should you de-
cide to camp deep in the forest. Being a national
park, all wildlife is under protection and these traps
are completely illegal, so if you come across with
a trapped bear—which can easily be recognized by
their constant shrieks even from a long distance
away—immediately call jandarma (phone # 156);
this will lead to the rescue of the bear, and the
prompt destruction of the trap.
164.12 Go next
Getting out of the mountain generally means backtrack-
ing to Bursa, although there are some tracks leading to
remote villages at the eastern and southern foothills of
the mountain.
Chapter 165
Marmara Islands
Marmara Islands (Turkish: Marmara Adaları) are an 165.6 Get in

archipelago in the Sea of Marmara (Turkey), located in its
mid-west portion, near its exit to Aegean Sea (the Straits Year-round boats which can accommodate cars from
of Dardanelles) and off Kapıdağ Peninsula on the Asian Tekirdağ (on the northern/European coast of the Sea of
coast. Marmara; costs 15 TL/person) and Erdek (on the south-
ern/Asian coast of the Sea of Marmara). There are also
Not to be confused with Princes’ Islands, which
pessenger-only fast ferries from Istanbul during summer
are also a group of islands in the Sea of
months, which cost 40 TL/person (or 30 TL/person with
Marmara, a few miles off the Asian coast of
a slower ferry departing on Saturdays).
Istanbul.
165.1 Islands 165.7 Get around

• Marmara Island — major island of the group, Most ferries which connect mainland to the islands call at
mostly mountainous with windswept hills to north almost all inhabited islands, so they can also be used for
and pine forests to south hopping island to island, although Paşalimanı and Ekinlik
is served less frequently than Marmara and Avşa, at which
• Avşa — most popular (and accordingly crowded) is-
practically all ferries call. You’ll have no problems on
land with sandy beaches and vineyards
inter-island transportation once you get to the harbour of
• Paşalimani — a low-lying rural island with several any given island.
villages along its amoeba-like coastline
• Ekinlik — the smallest island, inhabited by locals
with a conservative outlook 165.8 See
All of the islands had significant local Greek populations
165.2 Towns up to 1920s, so some architectural heritage, such as his-
torical houses or monasteries can be seen on the islands,
if sometimes partially ruined.
165.4 Understand 165.8.1 Itineraries
Marmara Islands constitute of four inhabited islands, 165.9 Do

namely Marmara Island, Avşa, Paşalimani, and Ekinlik,
and a few more uninhabited islands, islets and rocks.
Marmara Islands are administerively a part of Balıkesir
165.10 Eat
Province.
165.11 Drink
165.5 Talk
165.12 Stay safe
Turkish is the native language spoken in the islands.
491
492 CHAPTER 165. MARMARA ISLANDS
165.13 Connect
Islands’ telephone code is 266 (+90 266 when calling
from out of Turkey).
165.14 Go next
Chapter 166
Avsa
Avşa (pronounced aav-shaa) is one of the Marmara Is- 166.4 Get around
lands, Turkey.
Buses leave from Avşa’s main square in town and travel
around the island, there are also a couple of dolmuş oper-
166.1 Understand ators, kind of a cross between a taxi and a minibus. These
follow particular routes around the island.
Although it is one of the smaller islands of the It is possible to walk around the island but it’s a good
archipelago, Avşa is the most heavily touristed one. Instretch of the legs and not for the unfit. If you do walk,
fact, it was one of the most popular holiday destinations
make sure you take water with you — some parts of the
in 1970s for mid-class families in Turkey. island are very rural and you won't see another person for
The island is officially named Türkeli, but this never miles or hours.
caught on, and most everyone, except perhaps the gov- Cycling is also an option, but please bear in mind that
ernment documents, keep calling it Avşa, which derives Turks tend to see road safety laws as an optional hin-
from the Greek name of the island, Afissia. drance rather than a hard rule.
Roughly in the shape of an hourglass, the island has two
You can take a scooter or car on the ferry if you want,
settlements: the main town, also known as Avşa, centredthe roads are variable. Unfortunately the government in
on the western cove and the smaller village of Araplar,power is not providing enough money to the municipality
officially Yiğitler, occupying the eastern cove. to maintain all of the roads, although there has been a
The island has a large range of hills running down the programme of improvement over the past few years.
middle, some beautiful bays for bathing, swimming or
just relaxing in and gets very hot in the summer.
166.5 See
166.2 Talk
166.6 Do
English is not a popular language, but many people will
speak some English or German. This is mainly an island As you might expect for an idyllic Mediterranean island
visited by Turks rather than foreigners, but Turks are in- paradise, there’s not a huge amount to do on the island.
credibly hospitable people and don't be surprised if some- In the summer this is just as well as it gets really hot.
one is sent out to fetch an English speaker to translate if
there isn't one there in the shop. In Avşa there’s a “Lunapark” fair. There’s also sandy
beaches all around the island, some public, some private.
There are a few real gems with some natural bays due to
the island’s shape. It’s possible to walk over the main hills
166.3 Get in fairly easily, but make sure you take plenty of water if you
do and either set off very early in the morning, or in the
Year-round boats which can accommodate cars from mid-afternoon.
Tekirdağ (on the northern/European coast of the Sea of
Marmara) and Erdek (on the southern/Asian coast of the The main strip in town might look at little tacky, but if
Sea of Marmara, 1hr 45min). There are also pessenger- you go up to the ferry port, nearby there’s a pair of fish
only fast ferries (3½hr) from Istanbul during summer market stalls. The guys there are more than happy to show
months. Ferries from Tekirdağ cost 15 TL/person, while you how they handle the fish, the fish are fresh and great
ferries from Istanbul cost 40 TL/person (or 30 TL/person cooked in a Turkish barbeque (mangal).
on the slower ferry departing on Saturday mornings). Heading down the strip and out you'll come to a place
493
494 CHAPTER 166. AVSA
called Mavikoy. Before heading up the hill there’s a when it’s very hot, it’s easy to go off the beaten track and
restaurant with a sea view, some nice beaches and past end up somewhere miles away from anyone. As a general
the hill is a lookout point sometimes frequented by cou- rule as long as you can get to a road, head to the shore and
ples around sunrise/sunset. then walk to the nearest civilisation.
The island is a fairly laid back progressive place, but be
careful with public displays of affection, clothing and
166.7 Buy drinking. Drinking is acceptable, getting raucously drunk
and being loud and/or offensive less so. Girls may find
themselves the source of unwanted attention on the beach
166.8 Eat from boys if not accompanied by a man, especially girls
that look foreign (as this is uncommon). As with all of
Turkey, during Ramadan things get a little stricter and a
166.9 Drink little frustrating. While most places will sell alcohol dur-
ing Ramadan, it’s best not to drink in public if you can
Island’s local wine is well known and of variable qual- avoid it. Likewise, during Ramadan women should dress
ity. Bortaçina (, Liman Mevkii, Yiğitler, ☎ +90 a bit more modestly than normal.
266 892-10-03, fax: +90 266 892-10-02, e-mail:
If you're not Turkish, you may find some cultural customs
info@bortacina.com.tr. ) is a local producer well-known
a bit strange. If something happens and you don't agree
also in the mainland, offering wine-tasting (and a grilled
with it (e.g. an old lady picks up your child and starts
meat and fish menu) in its renovated winery in Yiğitler.
cooing at them, or a retailer offers them sweets) it’s not
If you don't like wine, there’s a reasonable selection of intentional. Turkish people are very passionate and while
beers in the various restaurants and bars in Avsa, but you Avşa is a fairly heavily populated place in the summer, the
might be better off visiting the local supermarkets. It goes people have a more rural mentality compared to Istanbul.
without saying that Turkish spirits such as Raki are freely As such, you may find things like the hospitality a little
available, but you might struggle to find some foreign spir- overwhelming at first, but the people are just proud of
its, such as Gin or Rum. Expect Whiskey to be limited their island and want to make sure your stay is a happy
to Jack Daniels and Southern Comfort. Bear in mind that one.
Avsa gets extremely hot, and you might want to stick to
the Efes Beer.
166.12 Connect
166.10 Sleep Island’s telephone code is 266 (+90 266 when calling
from out of Turkey).
There are lots of guesthouses (pansiyon) on the island, so
finding somewhere to sleep shouldn’t be a problem.
166.13 Go next
166.11 Stay safe Other islands of Marmara Archipelago.
While the island is generally a fairly crime free place with

lovely people, you should take care to keep an eye on
your belongings at the beach, sometimes people do have
things stolen (although this isn't a common occurrence).
It’s best to avoid doing anything stupid, like getting drunk
in the night clubs. You should also be aware that anything
imported to the island is generally a bit more expensive,
particularly in restaurants. Don't be surprised if you're
charged a small fortune for drinks in bars or clubs, or for
food in restaurants at peak season.
The island gets very very hot in the summer and can get
very windy too. Make sure you carry water with you dur-
ing the summer. The island has a seawater desalination
plant, so the water is generally safe to drink from the tap
but most places will serve bottled water fairly cheaply,
as until recently it had to be imported anyway. If you're
walking around the hills try not to go when it’s windy or
Chapter 167
Marmara (island)
Marmara Island (Turkish: Marmara Adası) is the 167.3 Get around

largest one of Marmara Islands, Turkey.
On Marmara there are several minibus (dolmuş) oper-
ators fanning out from the capital town that serve the
villages of the island. Minibus services are most fre-
quent in the summertime and departures to the other
167.1 Understand towns/villages correspond to arriving ferryboats. In the
fall/winter/spring months, these minibuses receive a com-
Although quite small by world standards, this island is pensation from the local municipality to operate as school
second largest island of island-poor Turkey. Its name buses. Minibuses can be found at the parking lot near the
comes from marmara in Greek (mermer in Turkish), jetty. In addition, there are several taxi operators which
which means “marble”, referring to the fact that island’s can also be used.
quarries have been used for marble extraction since an- During summer, minibuses from Marmara town to Çı-
cient times. The island also gave its name to the Sea narlı run every hour, while to Gündoğdu, there are three
of Marmara by which it is surrounded. Island’s ancient departures daily, which costs 2.50 TL pp. To Topağaç
name, on the other hand, was Prokonessos. and Asmalı, there are one or two departures every day,
Marmara Island has peculiarities unique to it in the which costs 5 TL pp one-way. Around noon/1PM, there
archipelago. Firstly, it is large enough to sustain more are also buses heading for these villages. Marmara town–
than a couple of villages (it has four villages and two Saraylar line is the least frequent, with one bus departing
towns, all situated on its oval-shaped shoreline). It is daily.
also mountainous, with highest point reaching 709 me-
ters at Ilyas Tepe. This mountainous geography does not
allow for long beaches along the coastline. Unlike other 167.4 See
islands in the archipelago, its large portions are covered
with forests.
• Open air Marble Museum in Saraylar village (situ-
Island’s capital town is also called Marmara (pop. 3- ated on the northern coast), which is located in one
4,000), situated in SW coast of the island. Islanders make of the quarries unused since Roman times and dis-
their living by fishing and agriculture, especially olive cul- playing unfinished sculptures left at where they were
tivation. being chipped by Roman sculptors.
• The village of Asmalı has several old wooden Greek

houses, remnants from the pre-1920s innhabitants
167.2 Get in of the island. The current residents are very friendly
and would be willing to show you the interior paint-
ings. Hand them out 5 TL in return as a courtesy.
Year-round boats which can accommodate cars from
Tekirdağ (on the northern/European coast of the Sea of
Marmara) and Erdek (on the southern/Asian coast of the
Sea of Marmara). There are also pessenger-only fast fer-
167.5 Do
ries from Istanbul during summer months. Ferries from
Tekirdağ cost 15 TL/person, while ferries from Istanbul • Rent a kayak for an hour in Marmara and have fun.
cost 40 TL/person (or 30 TL/person on the slower ferry The kayak rental can be found at the very western
departing on Saturday mornings). end of the town.
495
496 CHAPTER 167. MARMARA (ISLAND)

Marmara has several grocery stores, including those of Island’s telephone code is 266 (+90 266 when calling
national chains BİM, and Dia, and a local one named Mer- from out of Turkey).
can Market.
Near the ferry pier is a large kiosk of local handicrafts
and foodstuffs. 167.11 Go next
Other islands of Marmara Archipelago, including Avşa,
and the mainland town of Erdek.
167.7 Eat
Marmara has several eateries at fairly affordable prices.
Tea gardens are abundant and a nice way to spend an few
hours watching the sea or engaging in a conversation with
a friend.
In Gündoğdu, there are two locations where one can find
something to eat.
• Ocakbaşı Dürüm — This local kebab shop is oper-

ated by Yılmaz Şenol and his wife Yeliz. They have
offerings such as lahmacun, pide, wraps (dürüm),
and soup.
• Zila’s Internet Cafe — Cheese and sausage paninis

are available.
In Topağaç, there is an eatery similar to Ocakbaşı Dürüm

in Gündoğdu.
Saraylar, same as Topagaç.
Due to its touristy nature, one will find a few places to eat
in Çınarlı.
167.8 Drink
Alcohol is easily available in Marmara, primarily in the
form of beer.
167.9 Sleep
Most guesthouses (pansiyon) are located in Çınarlı vil-
lage, situated on the western coast. There are also a few
more in other villages, mainly in Marmara town, the cap-
ital of the island.
You may try these guesthouses in Gündoğdu:
• Özlem Tulunay Pansiyon, 20 TL a night.
• Zila Kasapoğlu Pansiyon, 20 TL a night.

Chapter 168
Mediterranean Turkey
land; this is the “blue voyage” country backed by im-

pressive Lycian ruins and stunning landscapes
• Pamphylia — mainly a mass tourism destination,

this is the shining gem of the Turkish Riviera
with some of the clearest waters and longest sandy
beaches along the Mediterranean; there are more
than a few things to catch the glimpse of history
lovers, too
168.2 Cities
• Antalya — the largest city in southwestern Turkey
The lighthouse on the Cape Taşlık (Gelidonia), which juts out and the unquestioned capital of the Turkish Riviera
towards the Mediterranean south of Antalya
• Adana — one of the biggest cities in the country, a
Mediterranean Turkey (Akdeniz Bölgesi) is a region in riverside city with some industry
Turkey. It occupies entire southern coast of Turkey and
• Alanya — town east of Antalya with some history
some places more inland.
to see and beaches to swim
• Antakya (also known as Antioch) — great food and

168.1 Regions history near the Syrian border; the home of Mosaic
Museum with a rich Roman collection
• Cilician Mountains — mostly rural part wth beau- • Fethiye — nestled on the tip of a gulf perfect for
tiful verdant mountain scenery dotted by ancient yachting, this town and its vicinity offers sports like
citadels, all just a stone throw away from hundreds paragliding or hiking (the Lycian Way)
of kilometres of almost totally deserted beaches
• Kaş — an unspoiled resort town with traditional ar-
• Cilician Plains (Çukurova) — the largest lowland of
chitecture in the southwest of the region
the country with some rocky hills topped by Cru-
sader citadels as well as sites with Biblical impor- • Marmaris — a nice town, albeit touristy, and the
tance gateway for “Blue Voyage”
• Hatay — the southeastern part of the region which • Mersin — a large city with some huge palm trees on
extends towards Syria, and annexed to Turkey in the coastal promenade
1939, almost two decades after the Republic was
found, and therefore still maintains its Mideast- • Taşucu — a pleasant town with cobbled streets and
influenced culture and great cuisine frequent ferries to Northern Cyprus
• Lakes District (Göller Yöresi) — with many lakes

little and big, this inland region is substantially dif-
ferent from coastal Mediterranean
• Lycia — rugged and heavily wooded, with many • Anemurium — ruins of a Roman city on the south-
turquoise coves heavily indendating towards the ernmost point of Turkey
497
498 CHAPTER 168. MEDITERRANEAN TURKEY
• Butterfly Valley — an isolated canyon with water- seized the region. It was during this era when the ances-
falls and a large colony of butterflies tors of most of the region’s locals poured in from Central
Asia as nomadic tribes. Some still keep the tradition to
• Heaven and Hell — a geological curiosity, two large this day, wintering on the warm coast and heading for
chasms next to each other located 4 km inland from heights of Taurus Mountains or plateaus of Central Ana-
sea shore tolia more inland to the north when summer approaches
with their goat and camel caravans. Seljuqs were later
• Kayaköy — ghost town with plenty of hiking oppor-
replaced by Ottomans in around 1400s.
tunities in the surrounding area
• Kemer - A resort town 45km south of Antalya.

Olympos Teleferik is close to Kemer
168.4.2 Climate
• Manavgat Waterfalls — waterfalls near Antalya As expected, Mediterranean Turkey enjoys the typical
Mediterranean climate: the temperature can go above
• Ölüdeniz — the “Blue Lagoon”, picture of which 40°C in rainless—and even cloudless—summers, while
is perhaps the most used image on travel brochures the rest of the year is quite rainy, although winter lows
about Turkey rarely go below +5°C and snowfall is virtually unknown
in the region (except the tops of the quite high moun-
• Olympos — backpacker destination with tree- tains close to the coastal strip, of course). The season
houses in the forest near a pebble beach and Roman with the highest amount of rainfall is winter (more or less
ruins, also featuring a rich nightlife limited to late October through early April in this region)
and can be accompanied by strong winds, to the point
• Xanthos and Letoon — ruins of the capital city of
of storms, in the localities close to the shore, especially
ancient Lycia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
around Antalya.
Water temperature of the Mediterranean Sea is around
168.4 Understand 28°C during summer, i.e. May through October.
Inland Lakes District has an altogether different conti-
nental climate than the rest of the region, and the winters
can be severe and quite snowy there.
168.5 Talk
The region is home to a plethora of Turkish dialects, from
Muğla şivesi, some of which is totally incomprehensi-
ble for non-local Turks spoken in Lycia to the dialect of
Beach near Olympos
Cilician Mountains, which is essentially a mainland “ex-
tension” of Cypriot Turkish. Syrian dialect of Arabic is
also prevalent around Antakya.
Mediterranean coast of Turkey is mostly a narrow strip
of land squeezed in between pine-covered Taurus Moun- However, thanks to heavy tourism, English will likely be
tains (Toros) and the Mediterranean Sea. Having been enough to communicate during your trip, especially in the
spared from pollution thanks to the lack of heavy indus- western parts of the region (i.e. Pamphylia and Lycia)
try, lying under one of the sunniest skies of Europe, to- and especially if you don't intend to go off the beaten
gether with its rich art and history, make the region the path. German, Russian, and Scandinavian languages may
top tourism destination in the country. also be helpful, especially when you visit one of the resort
towns mainly frequented by those nations.
168.4.1 History
168.6 Get in
Home to a number of ancient civilizations, namely Ly-
cia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia west to east, Mediterranean • By plane — major airports in the region open for in-
Turkey was captured by the Romans about a century be- ternational flights are located in Dalaman, Antalya,
fore the birth of Christ. After a brief occupation by the and Adana.
Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem, as evidenced by a
number of Crusader-built or -expanded citadels mainly • By train — Adana has daily direct passenger train
on the eastern sections of the region, and a number services from both Istanbul and Ankara (and a num-
of Crusader-backed Armenian kingdoms, Turkic Seljuqs ber of other cities on the way, such as Konya), while
168.8. SEE 499
Isparta and Burdur has services from Izmir. There is

also a once-weekly connection between Mersin, and
Adana and Aleppo in Syria.
• By bus — All cities and a good number of towns, es-

pecially those with touristical importance, have di-
rect bus connections from all big cities of the coun-
try.
• By car — The region is connected to the north-

ern parts of the country by a number of highways,
though passes that the roads have to go through when
running over Taurus Mountains mean that the roads
may have more windings and be narrower than usual Mamure Castle near Anamur
motorways. However, O-21 north of Adana/Mersin,
is an exception as it is a wide motorway with sepa-
rated directions. 168.8 See
• Ruins — The region is dotted by many ancient city
• By boat — There are ferries from Northern Cyprus
ruins. Most date back to indigenous civilizations of
to a number of coastal towns. See also Ferries in the
the region, which were expanded or rebuilt by Ro-
Mediterranean.
mans later.
• Citadels — Being on the strategic main route be-

tween Europe and Middle East, there are also lots
168.7 Get around of citadels in the region, either surrounding the cities
or in a valley or on a rocky hill to defend the nearby
roads from unwanted guests. Many, especially those
168.7.1 By public transport in the eastern portions of the region, are either built
by Crusaders from scratch or heavily fortified.
Buses (for long-haul routes such as Antalya to Adana)
and minibuses (for shorter routes between a major city
and nearby towns) will be your main mode of transporta- 168.8.1 Itineraries
tion within the region. Services are fairly frequent and
quite comfortable, and especially so in more touristed ar- • Lycian Way — A 509-km, waymarked hiking trail
eas of Lycia and Pamphylia. connecting Fethiye with the southern suburbs of
Train service in the region is limited to Cilician Plains Antalya.
with a branch line south to Iskenderun in Hatay. Lakes
District also has a (nowadays mostly unused) line stretch-
ing out to northwest. 168.9 Do
There is no long-haul ferry route along the coast, how-
ever, round boat trips offer pleasant cruises into remoter
parts of the coastline from major touristy towns.
There are no flights between region’s airports.
168.7.2 By car
The highway D400, which closely follows the shoreline

of Turkish Mediterranean from one end to another, is the
main road of the region. While most of it is very wide
(at least 2 lanes per direction) and in a very good condi-
tion, some sections are very winding and narrow such as
the section between Alanya and Silifke. There are other
roads, such as D650, which connects more inland regions Cruising at the Bay of Göcek
(Lakes District) with the D400, thus the coastline.
500 CHAPTER 168. MEDITERRANEAN TURKEY
• Yachting. One of the top cruising areas in 168.12 Stay safe

the Mediterranean basin, southwestern reaches of
Mediterranean Turkey (coasts of Lycia and western Mediterranean Turkey lies on a more southern latitude
Pamphylia) offers abundant yachting options. In the than anywhere else in Europe except Cyprus and the
much famed and hardly overestimated Blue Cruise Greek island of Crete, so take it easy in the beginning
(a.k.a. Blue Voyage; Mavi Yolculuk), started by a of your trip and pay close attention to early signs of heat
group of Turkish intellectuals in 1940s and usually stroke and dehydration. While on the beach, applying
compared to cruising in Caribbean, you take a char- liberal amounts of sun lotion wouldn't hurt.
tered gulet type yacht (two-masted wooden boats)
for a pre-specified amount of time (usually 15 days), If you plan to spend time in the mountains, be wary of
and cruise from cove to cove with turquoise waters scorpions. They thrive in Mediterranean climate and
surrounded by pine-covered mountains suddenly ris- rocky areas are their habitats, so never reach under a rock
ing at the edge of the sea, calling at coastal towns and without carefully checking first. Keeping your backpack
fishing villages on the way. Marmaris, Fethiye, Kaş, closed at all times will keep them out, and don't forget to
and Bodrum and Kuşadası (the last two of which are check the inside of your shoes first, should you take them
in Aegean Region) are usual starting points of a Blue out for any amount of time.
Cruise, although voyages extending all the way from On crowded public beaches (i.e., those that aren't owned
Izmir to Antalya are not unheard of. and enclosed by a resort hotel), don't leave your valuables
like cell phones and cameras unattended, or better yet,
don't take them to the beach. While many beaches are
patrolled by the police and security cameras, there are
still reports of petty theft.
168.10 Eat
Otherwise, Mediterranean towns are very safe (and secu-
rity forces very keen to keep them so), although there may
While local cuisine traditionally embraces goat meat, be rough areas in large cities such as Antalya, Mersin,
which is less common to the much of the rest of the coun- and Adana.
try and may lead to stomach trouble to who are unaccus-
tomed to it, restaurants in touristy towns frequently fea-
ture more familiar treats. Fish restaurants abound in sea-
side towns, while typical Turkish fast food döner and the
168.13 Go next
like is common in bigger towns and cities. Adana in the
east is known for its own style of kebabs (Adana kebabı), • Aegean Region to the north/northwest has a lot in
while cuisine of Antakya to southeast, being culturally a common with Mediterranean Turkey (especially the
part of neighbouring Syria, features highly delicious and climate, landscape, and flora), yet has unique aspects
partially vegetarian (or even vegan)-friendly Middle East- that make it a separate region.
ern fare. • Northern Cyprus is a short ferry hop away to the
south.
• Most travellers intending to get deep into Middle

East to the southeast of region cross to Syria from
168.11 Drink one of the border gates around Antakya.
• If the Seljuq sites in Alanya and Antalya aroused
A great way to reduce your bottled water costs in this your interest, head north to Central Anatolia for a
hot region is to use free cold water dispensers, locally lot more.
called sebil (pronounced say-beel), which can usually be
found on the sides of the streets and mosque courtyards • Southeastern Anatolia to east is quite an off the
in less-touristed towns and neighbourhoods in the region. beaten path destination and is an altogether different
They look like small, white refrigators and usually have world.
two faucets: red one delivers warm (or mildly hot de-
pending on the weather) water, while the blue one of-
fers comfortably cold water. Though the water coming
out of the faucets is not from a commercially-bottled jar,
and likely from the city water network, it’s harmless and
causes no stomach upsets. A way to reduce the risk may
be allowing yourself a week after arrival in the region to
get accustomed to local microflora and -fauna that may
be present in the water and then taking full advantage of
sebils.
Chapter 169
Cilician Mountains
Cilician Mountains forms the central part of the

Mediterranean Region of Turkey. Despite the name, this
rugged part of the ancient region of Cilicia also has an
extensive coastline fronting the Mediterranean, which is
one of the main drawcards, and the other being numer-
ous ancient ruins and medieval castles dotting the region,
although for the most part the foreign travellers have yet
to discover them.
169.1 Cities
• Anamur — the southernmost point of Turkey (near
36° N); well-known for its banana plantations and a Kızkalesi (Maiden’s Castle) on a small islet just off the town of
charming fortress on the coast the same name
• Aydıncık — a quiet coastal town; nearby caves are

habitat of Mediterranean monk seals and Mediter- the middle of the sea to protect his beloved daugh-
ranean sea turtles ter from death after hearing a prophecy told by a for-
tuneteller, but a snake had found its way to the castle
• Bozyazı — another coastal town situated on one of (inside a basket of fruits) and, as you have already
the (rare) coastal plains guessed, had bitten and killed the princess (quite
the same myth with the one of Maiden’s Tower in
• Erdemli — coastal town between Mersin and Silifke Istanbul). The castle is situated between Silifke and
Erdemli, very near the Heaven and Hell Caves. It
• Ermenek — small mountain town with preserved can be reached from the mainland (the town situ-
stone architecture over the Taurus Mountains ated across the castle is also named Kızkalesi) by
the small boats serving the visitors.
• Gülnar — home of nomadic Yörük tribes
• Heaven and Hell Caves (Cennet-Cehennem) — two
• Mut — a town up in the mountains; when coming
huge chasms located a few minutes of walk from
from Central Anatolia, this is the first place you’ll
each other, which were formed when ceilings of two
feel the Mediterranean climate, and see the sub-
underground caves collapsed. They are situated near
tropical plants of Mediterranean region, such as ba-
the town of Narlıkuyu.
nanas, palm trees, cacti, eucalypti etc
• Silifke — primary city of the region situated slightly • Göksu Valley — between Silifke and Mut. Formed
inland on the banks of azure Göksu River by turquoise Göksu River (known as “Saleph River”
in ancient times) by carving the Taurus Mountains
in millions of years, this valley, with its deep cliffs,
canyons, forests, and lots of citadels dotting the hills
169.2 Other destinations has a spectacular scenery. The valley was once used
by, among others, the Crusader armies of Third
• Maiden’s Castle (Kızkalesi) — a quite big and well- Crusade, on their way to Jerusalem, but the valley
preserved castle built on an island off the shore. also signaled the end to this branch of Crusaders,
Story has it that a powerful king built the castle in too, as their leader/German king Frederick Bar-
501
502 CHAPTER 169. CILICIAN MOUNTAINS
barossa drowned in the river when trying to have a The region is Turkey’s main citrus (lemon, orange, grape-
bath (in 1190). In the Göksu Delta, where Göksu fruit...) and banana growing region. Almost always
empties into Mediterranean near Silifke, lives 106 sunny climate also allows intensive greenhouse opera-
species of birds of international importance, 12 of tions, which cater Turkey’s central and northern regions
which are endangered species. The delta is also (and also parts of the Middle East and Europe) with fresh
home to 3 species of sea turtles, all endangered. vegetables in winter.
• Taşucu — a small town with Mediterranean archi-

tecture. This is the gateway to Cyprus as there are 169.3.1 Climate
frequent boats to Northern Cyprus from this town’s
harbour. Typical Mediterranean climate: Hot and dry/sunny sum-
mers (April to early November), mild and rainy winters
(the rest of the year). In Anamur, on only 1 day out of 365
169.3 Understand days a year, the temperature is lower than +5° C (+41° F)
on the average.
Although nowhere near as widely visited as its western
neighbour, Pamphylia, Cilician Mountains has a lot to of-
fer to every taste. For history lovers, it offers hundreds of 169.4 Talk
castles, city ruins, temples, inns, and artifacts dating back
to Roman, Biblical, Crusade, Seljuq, and Ottoman times. In eastern part of the region (i.e. around Erdemli), you
For nature lovers, it may mean mountains, mountains, would probably be fine with a little bit of English, espe-
and again mountains covered with pine forests. For green cially in tourism-oriented businesses. Some German can
warriors, it holds the last shelters for endangered Mediter- also be useful as Germans are the largest number of for-
ranean monk seals (Monachus monachus) and Mediter- eigners visiting Turkey. In more remote places, such as
ranean sea turtles (Caretta caretta). For sea&sun seekers, those in the western and southern parts of the region, you
it has hundreds of miles of beaches, both sandy and peb- will need at least a few Turkish words. However, Turk-
bled, spared from pollution, lying under perhaps one of ish spoken in parts of the region is a bit far away from
the sunniest skies of Turkey and also of Europe. standard Turkish (i.e, that is spoken in Istanbul), lying
Despite its close proximity to Turkey’s main touristic in a medium between Konya dialect and Cypriot Turkish
areas, still “travelling” (i.e., being a “traveller”) is the (closer to the latter). So, it may be best to ask for writ-
norm in much of the region (as opposed to “tourism”, ten answers as the pronunciations in the phrasebooks are
i.e., being a “tourist”). If you want to have a cup of not exactly how the people of the province pronounce the
tea, then you should head for local coffeehouse, not a words. They all understand standard Turkish, though.
touristical/fancy/European-looking café. If you’ll sleep in
somewhere, then it would (most likely) be a guesthouse
where other regional guests are staying at, not an “all- 169.5 Get in
inclusive” holiday resort as a part of a package tour. This
situation has its advantages: people are more friendly, and 169.5.1 By air
prices are lower.
The region—especially the western and southern parts— Nearest airport for both international and domestic flights
is mostly rugged and wooded, and is dominated by Taurus is in Adana. For the southernmost part of the re-
Mountains with very little (or no) flatland between moun- gion (Anamur and its environs), international airport in
tain slopes and the shoreline. Quite surprisingly, this Antalya is another possibility, although it’s still a fair dis-
mountainous area—one of the remotest and most beau- tance to the airport.
tiful along Turkish Mediterranean coast—has one of the
least population densities anywhere in maritime Turkey
and distances between towns are huge. From Silifke east- 169.5.2 By train
wards, high mountains retreat a little inland, but the coast-
line still keeps its hilly topography. There is no station (nor any railtracks) in the region.
Nearest station with passenger services is in Mersin.
In ancient times, this region was called Cilicia Trachea,
i.e. “rough Cilicia” or more precisely “mountanious Cili-
cia”, as opposed to Cilicia Pedias, i.e. "flat Cilicia" ly- 169.5.3 By bus
ing to the east of the region. In modern political terms,
Cilician Mountains extend over western and central two- Major regional towns are usually served from regional
thirds of Mersin Province, as well as the southern pan- centres, such as Mersin to east, Konya to north, and
handle of Karaman Province (rest of which is associated Antalya to west, with the most links oriented towards east
with Central Anatolia). (Mersin).
169.7. SEE 503
169.5.4 By car 169.7 See

D400 highway between Adana and Antalya enters the re- 169.7.1 Itineraries
gion from its one extreme and follows (or at least tries to
follow as long as rugged geography permits) the coast-
line until the other extreme in the NE-SW axis of the 169.8 Do
region. It traverses all the towns located along the shore-
line. D715 from Konya in the north also joins D400 in
Silifke after passing through a pass on Taurus Mountains 169.9 Eat
(Sertavul Pass) and Mut.
169.10 Drink
169.5.5 By boat Locally produced ayran (no matter pre-packaged or be-
ing sold “fresh” in roadside stalls) tends to be saltier than
There are scheduled ferries from Cypriot cities of Kyrenia those found in the rest of the country, which is great to re-
and Famagusta to Taşucu. cover the sodium you lost by sweating but may take longer
to get used to if you haven't had any ayran before.
169.6 Get around 169.11 Buy

169.6.1 By bus/minibus In the western and southern parts of the region, always
carry an extra amount of cash with you. Most of the
Smaller settlements in the region have minibus services settlements you’ll come across are far in-between, rural
to bigger regional/nearby towns/cities, such as Mersin, and doesn’t have enough population to justify setting up
Silifke, and Anamur. an ATM. Also, supermarkets are rare as well, and the
smaller the place you are in, the less chance that your (or
any) credit card will be accepted.
169.6.2 By car
The main highway of the region, D400, is wide (mostly 4- 169.12 Stay safe
lane), smooth and straight in the section between Erdemli
and Taşucu, 15 km west of Silifke. All other roads in the
region are narrow (only wide enough for two cars passing
169.13 Stay healthy
side by side) and very (in some cases, extremely) winding
because of the very rugged landscape. But the situation Being located at the same latitude with the Mediterranean
may change rapidly, as there were new road constructions African cities such as Algiers or Tangier, sun is very
in July, 2009. strong in this part of Turkey. Even non-local Turkish peo-
ple (those from more northerly locations, such as Istanbul)
can have hard time. Don’t forget to drink lots of water to
stay hydrated, to have more salt in your diet than you are
169.6.3 By thumb used to for balancing your sodium loss by sweating (or
better drink at least one cup of salty ayran evey day), and
People are friendly towards hitchhikers. Despite its to use sunblock lotion.
favourable climate and proximity to Turkey’s main touris-
tic areas (e.g., Pamphylia), there are not as many travelers
as you may assume, therefore people treat you like guests
(but don’t expect them to do more than giving you a lift
169.14 Respect
and may be offering a fruit). The general problem is that
there are not many vehicles in much of the region, and Respect the nature:
therefore waiting for a lift can take up to 2 hours, under
the cruel sun between April and October. Don’t forget to • Most of the region is covered with pine forests. Hot
take lots of water and sunblock lotion! The drivers that and dry Mediterranean climate, which reigns in the
offer a lift also are mostly driving town-to-town, so there area, makes them very vulnerable to wildfires. In
is little chance to find a long-haul lift, but that is not such a fact, a forest fire in Summer 2007 destroyed an ex-
bad thing as you will experience more of rural/real spirit tremely large tract of forest (the width of damaged
of Mediterranean Turkey. area is somewhere around 10-15 km) and couldn’t
504 CHAPTER 169. CILICIAN MOUNTAINS
be taken under control for 4 days. Therefore, in

wooded areas, be careful with your fire (and your
cigarette!), or better, do not use any fire if possible
at all.
• In some places on the road (even on the highway),

you’ll see turtle signs. They mean the place in ques-
tion is used by endangered Mediterranean sea turtles
(Caretta caretta) for crossing into their egg-laying
area. Don’t ask why on Earth the turtles are at-
tempting to cross the road, they just follow their
million-year-old habits, and the road was built in
a different era, when habits of turtles (and the tur-
tles themselves) weren’t much of an interest. Be ex-
tremely careful when driving in an area with such a
sign. Also, be aware that many of the sandy beaches
in the region (especially those in the southern part,
i.e. around Anamur) are used by turtles as egg-
laying areas, whether there is a sign or not. So
be careful when using these beaches, avoid thrust-
ing sharp things—such as beach umbrellas—into the
sand, and do not leave behind even the smallest piece
of trash.
169.15 Connect
The telephone code of the region is 324.
169.16 Go next
• Cilician Plains to east — larger cities, some of which
has sites of Biblical importance; extensive trans-
portation links connect the regions
• Pamphylia to west — a more heavily-touristed des-
tination; accessible by a winding road through a ver-
dant mountain scenery from the region
• Central Anatolia inland to north — wide open

steppe landscapes; accessible by a winding road
through beautiful Göksu Valley or even wilder and
remoter mountain road north of Anamur
• Northern Cyprus to south — beautiful small towns

and castles; a short ferry ride from Taşucu
Chapter 170
Anamur
Anamur is a city (population: about 60,000) in the 170.1.1 Climate

very south of Turkey, only a few kilometres away from
Turkey’s southernmost point (that is where ancient city There is a reason why otherwise tropical banana plants
of Anemurium is located), near 36° N. Anamur is also flourish in Anamur—in summers, it’s an extremely hot
the central point of the entire length of Mediterranean and sticky place, where you will indeed be hard pressed
coast of Turkey. to do anything which would require you to get out of shady
areas, or even your air-con enclosure.
The temperatures never go as low as freezing point in
Anamur—in fact, Anamur experiences only one day an-
nually when temperature ever goes below +5°C/41°F on
170.1 Understand the average—and as such, snowfall is virtually unknown
in rainy winters.
Sunny and warm springs, especially around April, is by
far the most comfortable time to visit Anamur. Although
evenings around this time of the year tend to be windy
(the very word of Anamur derives from a Greek expres-
sion meaning “windy cape” after all), it is perfectly possi-
ble to walk around with just a t-shirt day and night during
this season, although locals may think you should be crazy
for not wearing a coat in such “cold” (!) weather.
170.2 Get in
170.2.1 By plane
Hillside ruins in ancient Anemurium, which marks the southern-
most cape of Anatolia
The nearest airports for both international and domestic
flights is Gazipaşa Airport, about 90 km away. Other near
The city consists of two parts: The older town centre lean- airports are in Antalya and in Adana, both about 250 km
ing against the mountain ranges and newer coastal neigh- away.
bourhood with concrete blocks mainly used by families
as summer houses and about two and a half kilometres
separating each other.
This is one of Turkey’s two banana-producing (in a com- 170.2.2 By car
mercial scale) regions, the other being Alanya. This fact
is also apparent in that Anamur is usually a synonym for The town is served by D400, main highway between
domestically-produced banana in Turkey. Antalya and Adana. Although these are two of Turkey’s
The Pentadactylos/Beşparmak mountain range of biggest cities, and D400 is classified as a highway, the
Cyprus, 40 miles off-shore, is visible from Anamur on road to both directions is narrow (wide enough for two
clear days. cars passing side by side though) and very winding.
505
506 CHAPTER 170. ANAMUR
170.2.3 By bus • Mamure castle, also known as Anamur castle, 5

km SE of Anamur, situated by the shore, on the road
All buses operating between Antalya and Adana and all to Mersin. Dating back to Roman times and later
the way to Southeastern region cities have to pass via Ana- used by Crusaders and Seljuqs, it is reported that this
mur, though it is not certain if they accept passengers for is one of the most scenic castles in Turkey.
Anamur.
There is a 10AM bus daily from Alanya to Silifke which • Ancient city of Anemurium or Anemurion in
stops in Anamur. Greek (also spelled as Anamuryum on road signs),
name of which means “windy cape”, is located in a
Buses from Antalya in the west take 5 hours and cost 25 peninsula jutting out into Mediterranean Sea, which
TL (make sure you haggle), while those from Silifke in is the southernmost tip of Turkey. Anemurium
the east take 2 hours and cost 10 TL. was abandoned in about 7th century and features
some partially ruined buildings—though still intact
enough to give an idea about what they were like be-
170.3 Get around fore they were abandoned—and high city walls on
the side of a mountain, and is quite pleasant to walk
around. Near Ören village, 5-10 km west of Ana-
There are minibuses connecting the town centre to the mur, near the road to Antalya (about 3 km towards
coast, but you may prefer walking. It takes no more than the sea from the main road; no public transportation
30-40 minutes on foot. exists to the site from the main highway but it’s an
easy walk anyway). 3 TL/person.
170.4 See
170.5 Do
• Beaches. There are great undeveloped sandy
beaches almost totally deserted around the ruins of
Anemurion, with a seawater temperature close to
the levels of a hot tub. However, take care of not dis-
turbing turtle eggs of an endangered species (Caretta
caretta), which lay eggs to many beaches in the
area. Especially discouraged (and sometimes, out-
right banned) are using beach umbrellas or other ob-
jects with sharp ends, building firepits, and leaving
behind even the smallest piece of trash. Sometimes
local military police (jandarma) shuts the entrance
to the beaches in the evening and through the night,
out of environmental concerns.
Mamure Castle
170.6 Buy
As this is Turkey’s main banana producing region, you
may assume that you will have bunches of banana in ex-
change of a few cents. This is sometimes true and some-
times not. During summer, at the height of banana pro-
duction, it is possible to buy a kilogram of bananas for the
fair price of 1.50 TL (but make sure you are not cheated
and given less than a kg), but in the spring, when the new
growing season is just about to begin, a kg of banana is
no cheaper than in Istanbul, a thousand kilometres north.
However, Bozyazı, a town 15 km east, always offers ba-
nana cheaper than in Anamur.
There are two supermarkets (affiliated with the national
chains Migros and BİM) in the coastal hood. Migros gets
Ruins of Anemurium closed during winter and early spring months, though.
There are one or two ATMs in the main street of coastal
170.11. GO NEXT 507
hood, and many others in the town centre (including one

of HSBC), mostly along Bankacılar Caddesi. But it is not
certain if they are connected to international network.
170.7 Eat
170.8 Drink
170.9 Sleep
You’ll find a hotel or two and some guesthouses (pan-
siyon) near the coast.
• Eser Pansiyon, İnönü caddesi No:6, İskele (near

the coast), ☎ +90 324 816 47 51, e-mail:
bilgi@eserpansiyon.com. Rooms with en-suite
bathrooms, air-conditioner. € 10/17/24 sin-
gle/double/triple rooms Sept-Jun; € 13/20/28 sin-
gle/double/triple rooms Jul-Aug.
• Mesut'un Yeri Pansiyon (in the east of town, on the

road to Bozyazı/Mersin. Inland from the sea and the
camping on the beach, across the highway). Close to
the beach, this family-run guesthouse has beautiful
views of the castle. Rooms are clean and come with
air-con and TV. It’s very easy to hitchhike along the
highway in front of the guesthouse. 30 TL, including
breakfast.
170.10 Connect
The telephone code for Anamur is 324.
170.11 Go next
Depending on which direction you have arrived from,
you're likely to either head west Alanya, and Manavgat
on the road to Antalya; or east Aydincik, and Silifke on
the road to Mersin. There is also a very winding and nar-
row mountain road, which can sufficiently satisfy most
off-road driving enthusiasts, leading north to Ermenek,
a small town over the Taurus Mountains, and the road
eventually leads further north to Karaman and Konya in
Central Anatolia. Ferries to Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus
from town’s harbour has been discountinued for some
time now, and the nearest harbours with a connection to
Cyprus are now Taşucu in the east and Alanya in the west.
Chapter 171
Aydincik
Aydıncık is a small town (population: about 7,000) of summer heat. A (small) glass of tea costs YTL 0.25
in southern part of Cilician Mountains, Mediterranean and a cup of tea costs YTL 0.50 there.
Turkey. Its former name was Gilindire, which comes
from the name of the Roman city modern town of Ay-
dıncık replaced: Kelenderis. 171.8 Sleep
171.1 Get in 171.9 Connect

The telephone code for Aydıncık is 324.
171.1.1 by car
The town is served by D400, main highway between
Antalya and Adana. Although these are two of Turkey’s 171.10 Go next
biggest cities, and D400 is classified as a highway, the
road to both directions is narrow (wide enough for two Anamur, Alanya, and Manavgat on the road west
cars passing side by side though) and very winding. to Antalya; Silifke, Heaven and Hell caves (Cennet-
Cehennem), and Maiden’s Castle (Kızkalesi), on the road
east to Mersin.
171.1.2 by bus
All buses operating between Antalya and Adana and all
the way to Southeastern region cities have to pass via Ay-
dıncık, though it is not certain if they accept passengers
for Aydıncık.
171.2 Get around
171.3 See
171.4 Do
171.5 Buy
171.6 Eat
171.7 Drink
There is a very nice open-air tea garden next to the little
wharf. It is like an oasis with its shading trees in the peak
508
Chapter 172
Narlıkuyu
Narlıkuyu is a coastal town in Cilician Mountains region, located very near each other. The cliff of Heaven will
southern Turkey. welcome you to this area which overlooks the sea from a
distance.
A ticket valid for both Heaven and Hell costs 5 TL,
172.1 Understand but rock bottom budget travellers might consider view-
ing Heaven from the roadside above immediately on the
edge of the cliff for free (it is not possible to go down in-
172.2 Get in side the chasm without a ticket, though), and cross their
fingers for having the ticket control in front of the view-
• Narlıkuyu is located on the highway D400, the ing balcony of Hell unmanned — which sometimes is the
major highway which traverses whole length of case.
Mediterranean coast of Turkey. Narlıkuyu lies 65
km west of Mersin, the provincial capital, 27 km • Heaven (Cennet). Of the two chasms which were
west of Erdemli and 20 km east of Silifke, other formed when ceilings of two underground caves col-
important cities of the region. The road to both di- lapsed, this bigger one resembles a green, peaceful
rections are wide (2 lanes per direction) and in a very heaven with evergreen shrubs and trees growing on
good condition. its bottom. It is possible to reach the bottom, which
also has ruins of a monastery, by climbing down an-
• Buses and minibuses from Mersin heading for
cient stairs (452 of them, and as every descent has
Silifke, Gülnar, and other points west pass through
an ascend, it is not advisable for those having heart
and accept passengers for Narlıkuyu.
and respiration problems, especially in summer).
• Hell (Cehennem) (200 mt north of Heaven; follow

172.3 Get around the path starting from next to the gates of the stairs to
Heaven’s bottom). A post-apocalyptic abyss full of
The town centre lies on the former winding and narrow sharp stalagmites when compared with Heaven, the
highway closely following the coast, about 1 km south of bottom of this 78-metre deep pit is, however, full of
the current highway. Many side streets link each other. deep green -even emerald green- plants which look
even more peaceful and exotic than Heaven’s. This
Heaven and Hell chasms and the Asthma Cave is located
was where Zeus was believed to imprison Typhon in
about 3 km north of the (current) highway. There is no
ancient times. Unlike Heaven, it is not possible to go
public transport to there from the town centre, or from the
down into the Hell, with only a balcony-like viewing
highway junction for that matter, but you can walk that
area hanging over the cliff of the pit.
gently-ascending slope or try hitchhiking. When coming
in from out of town (from Mersin, for example) ask to be
• Asthma Cave (Astım Mağarası) (about 500 mt west
dropped off at Cennet-Cehennem (pronounced jayn nayt
of Heaven; walk on the tarmac road to the opposite
jay hayn naym) to get off at the junction of the road lead-
direction of Hell). Entrance is from the basement of
ing to the chasms instead of the town centre. There is also
one of the shops in the area. 3 TL.
a carpark free of charge at the entrance of the site.
172.5 Do
172.4 See
The main attraction of the town is Heaven and Hell 172.6 Buy
chasms (Cennet-Cehennem) and the Asthma Cave, all
509
510 CHAPTER 172. NARLIKUYU
172.7 Eat
Narlıkuyu is known for its fish restaurants by the shore,
visited by many people from Mersin during weekends
to have a meal accompanied by a glass of rakı. Hacı
Amca'nın Yeri is one of such restaurants, a very cool
place with fresh fish and very tasteful arugula salad.
Along the road to Heaven-Hell, there are a number
of open-air “restaurants” consisting of replicas of the
tents of local nomadic Yörük tribes. Most offer Turkish
cheese-pancake (gözleme) and ayran, the yoghurt drink.
172.8 Drink
Local foamy yayık ayranı, produced with the ancient way
of churning, has some level of fame and is quite refresh-
ing on a hot day. There is a road-side stall on the cor-
ner where the uphill road to Heaven-Hell branches off the
main highway, which offers a pint of icy yayık ayranı for
3 TL.
172.9 Sleep
172.10 Connect
(+90) 324 is the telephone code of the town.
172.11 Go next
• Kızkalesi (Maiden’s Castle), a castle located on an
islet off-shore, is only a few km east of Narlıkuyu.
Chapter 173
Silifke
Silifke is a city (population: about 65,000) in the re- 173.3 See

gion of Cilician Mountains, Southern Turkey. Although
it appears by the shore on the maps, the city itself isn’t a
• Ruins of the Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter
coastal one, but it has suburbs by the shore.
(Roman equivalent of Greek Zeus) is standing right
in the centre of the city. Later converted to a church,
now there are only five columns standing. No admis-
173.1 Get in sion fee, as there is no guard or a gate.
173.1.1 By plane • Turquoise Göksu River, name of which means “ce-

lestial water” or “azure water” in Turkish, is bisect-
Nearest airport for both international and domestic flights ing the city with its wide, eucalyptus-lined bed. You
is in Adana, about 140 km away. can also check out still-intact Roman bridge span-
ning over the river in city centre. In ancient times
this river was known as “Saleph River”. This is the
173.1.2 By bus river in which crusade leader/German king Freder-
ick Barbarossa drowned in 1190 (the exact site of
The easiest connections are perhaps by minibuses from the event is in an upper location in Göksu valley,
Mersin (which take around 2 hours and cost 10 TL) and though).
by buses from the inland city of Konya (which cost 30
TL).
• Archaeological Museum, simply named “Sil-
Silifke’s main bus station (otogar) lies in town centre.
ifke Museum” and signed correspondingly (simply
“Müze” both on the road signs and also on the fa-
cade of the building). Located on the highway to
173.1.3 By train
Antalya, not far from city centre.
There is no rail network around Silifke. The nearest sta-
tions are in Karaman (about 150 km north, which has two
daily connections from Istanbul) and in Mersin (about 90 173.4 Do
km east, which has several daily regional expresses from
Adana).
You can go birdwatching in the nearby Göksu Delta,
where Göksu River empties into Mediterranean Sea. The
173.1.4 By car delta is home to 106 species of birds of international im-
portance, 12 of which are endangered species.
The main highway between Antalya and Adana (D400)
traverses the city. There is also another highway coming
from Konya in north (D715) through spectacular Göksu
Valley. Beware that all roads except the one leading to
173.5 Buy
Mersin in the east are very (in some cases extremely)
winding.
173.6 Eat
511
512 CHAPTER 173. SILIFKE
173.8 Sleep
• Otel Arısan, ☎ +90 324 714 33 31, e-mail:
otelarisan33@hotmail.com. İnönü Cad. 91 (in the
city centre, near the otogar), . Clean rooms come
with a TV and a balcony, although view is not
that spectacular (except the mountain ranges ris-
ing steeply behind the city if you are from a flat
land). 24-hour solar powered hot water. Atten-
dant in the lobby said there is no need for book-
ing at weekends (at least in spring months). Could
be a little bit cheaper but still quite good value for
money. Double rooms: 15 YTL per person/night
(non-A/C, shared bathroom facilities) – 20 YTL per
person/night (A/C, private bathrooms). Breakfast is
provided for an additional fee (between 7-10 am, 3
YTL?).
See also Taşucu, which is only 15 km away and where

there are more guesthouses located near the shore.
173.9 Connect
The telephone code for Silifke is 324.
173.10 Go next
Anamur, Alanya, and Manavgat on the road west to
Antalya; Heaven and Hell caves (Cennet-Cehennem),
Maiden’s Castle (Kızkalesi), Mersin, and Tarsus on the
road east to Adana; Konya on the road north; Northern
Cyprus to the south (via Tasucu harbour).
Chapter 174
Tasucu
Taşucu is a little town with Mediterranean style buildings 174.7 Drink

and cobblestone streets on the coast of Cilician Moun-
tains, Southern Turkey.
174.8 Sleep
174.1 Get in There are guesthouses/hostels (pansiyon) near the

shore/yacht marina. There is also a 4-star hotel in the
west exit of the town.
174.1.1 by minibus
There are frequent minibuses to the town from Silifke, 15 • Baris Pansiyon, Reşadiye Mah., ☎ +90 324 741 28
km away. 38. 35 TL/double room/two persons.
174.1.2 by car 174.9 Connect

The town is served by D400, main highway between
The telephone code for Taşucu is 324.
Antalya and Adana. The road to east (to Silifke) is wide
and smooth, whereas road to west is narrow (two cars can
cross side by side though) and very winding.
174.10 Go next
174.2 Get around There is a frequent ferry service to Kyrenia, Northern

Cyprus from town’s harbour. Ferries are operated by Fer-
gün Shipping and costs 59-69 TL/person one-way or 99-
174.3 See 115 TL/person return.
174.4 Do
174.5 Buy
There is a supermarket near the yacht marina, not affili-
ated with any chains, and the prices are almost the same
as anywhere else in Turkey. They accept credit card pay-
ments if the total sum of your purchase is more than YTL
3.00 (~€ 1.50/~US$ 2.10), otherwise cash only.
There are two ATMs in front of the ticket-office at the
port where the ferries leave for Cyprus; they look out of
place and battered, but accept foreign cards and are in
working order.
174.6 Eat
513
Chapter 175
Cilician Plains
Cilician Plains, or Çukurova in modern Turkish, is in Southeastern Anatolia to east, and Hatay to southeast.
Mediterranean Turkey. There is a shoreline on the Mediterranean to the south,
too, but unlike its westernly neighbours, this section of
the coast is not renowned for beaches.
175.1 Regions The main industries of the past were (and to some degree,
still are) cotton and citrus growing. Today some heavy
industry has also entered the scene, as well as the oil and
175.2 Cities gas pipelines coming from the Caucasus and Caspian Sea
and reaching the Med coast here.
• Adana — undoubtedly capital of the region, a river-
side city with some industry
• Çamlıyayla — a town up in the mountains, once

175.5 Talk
used by people of Mersin as a summer retreat to es-
cape hot weather 175.6 Get in
• İncirlik — town east of Adana with a NATO air base
and a heavy American presence
• Karataş — a sea-side resort mainly enjoyed by locals

of the region
• Mersin — a rapidly growing industrial city with

pleasant palm-lined park on the waterfront; this is
the region’s major window to the sea
• Osmaniye
• Tarsus — a fairly large city between Mersin and

Adana, with a well-preserved old quarter and sites
related to Biblical personalities such as St Paul (one
of the residents of the town)
• Yumurtalık — a town on the coast
175.4 Understand
Cilician Plains are the largest lowland of Turkey with
the occasional rocky hill topped by a Crusader castle.
In modern political terms, Cilician Plains extends over Varda Bridge, spanning over a ravine in the Taurus Mountains,
was built in 1912 as part of the Berlin–Baghdad railway project.
all of Adana and Osmaniye Provinces, and the eastern
It still conveys freighter and passenger traffic between interior
third of Mersin Province. The Plains are bordered by Turkey and Cilician Plains.
Cilician Mountains to west, Central Anatolia to north,
514
175.12. STAY SAFE 515
• Adana's international airport is so far the only air- 175.12 Stay safe
port in the region.
Cilician Plains is the last part of the country where
• Adana and Mersin is well served by intercity buses malaria has not been totally eradicated—it was indeed
and trains (you will need to transfer to a local train a common disease in the region until up to 1980s, and it’s
for Mersin, though, as the main trunk line bypasses reported that there are still (weakened) populations of P.
the city). vivax in the region. While you will most likely be safe,
take usual precautions (i.e., apply insect repellents liber-
• The region is connected by the motorways O-21 ally) at visits May through October, when mosquitoes are
to north (Central Anatolia), O-51 to west (Cilician active, and go see a doctor if you happen to perceive the
Mountains), O-52 to east (Southeastern Anatolia), symptoms within two weeks after your visit to the region.
O-53 to south (Hatay). There are also toll-free high-
ways that are in fairly good condition from all direc- Be careful while driving on the quite desolate motor-
tions. way between Adana and Osmaniye, as mentioned at “get
around” section.
175.7 Get around 175.13 Go next

The highway D400, which traverses through major cities • For a change in scenery, and beaches that you will
and towns of the region, and 8-lane motorway/toll-road be the only human being for kilometres, head west
O-51/O-52/E90, which lies a few km north of D400 (and to Cilician Mountains.
thus bypassing the cities and towns), form the backbone
of local traffic. • You will certanly start to feel Middle-Eastern influ-
ences in culture, cuisine, and architecture while in
However, due to the reports of banditry on quite desolate
Cilician Plains; for a lot more, head south to Hatay,
O-51/O-52, especially in the section between Adana and
from where trips further on to Syria can be arranged
Osmaniye, drivers are advised not to stop even on the or-
easily (keep the visa issues in mind, though).
ders from someone seemingly police or to help what is
seemingly an accident on the edge of the road, as these • Southeastern Anatolia to east is another destination
are usual tricks known to make drivers stop and easily rob with much Middle-Eastern influences, and with im-
them of valuables. pressive ancient towns.
Fairly frequent and modern (best of all, air-con) trains • Just north of the mighty Taurus Mountains, across
connect Mersin with Adana, also calling at Tarsus, the the Gülek Pass (known by Cilician Gates in ancient
other major city of the region, and Yenice, town with the times), Cappadocia awaits.
station on the national rail network, on the way. Services
east from Adana (towards Toprakkale and Osmaniye) are
spotty at best, with seemingly vintage passenger cars dat-
ing back to 1950s.
175.8 See
175.8.1 Itineraries
175.9 Do
175.10 Eat
175.11 Drink
• Şalgam suyu or fermantated hot carrot juice, though

possible to find at kebab joints and some supermar-
kets nationwide nowadays, is originated from this re-
gion.
Chapter 176
Adana
Adana is in Mediterranean Turkey. 176.2 Get in
176.2.1 By air
176.1 Understand Flights arrive at the Adana Sakirpasa Airport (IATA:

ADA) located in the city outskirts. It’s a fairly short cab
ride to city center (costing about 20 lira) and is served
frequently by dolmuş.
176.2.2 By bus
As with the rest of the country, another common way of
getting here is to use the buses. They arrive here fre-
quently from Ankara, Istanbul, Izmir, and several other
cities around Turkey. Journey time from Istanbul is
around twelve hours, fares starting at 50 TL. Inter-city bus
companies includes Varan , Ulusoy , and Metro . Make
sure you get off at the right station as most buses also stop
at a station in the suburbs, about 4 km west of city cen-
tre. Getting off at the wrong station may be frustrating,
but not an disaster since a local bus connects them. The
Ziyapaşa Caddesi in central Adana bus station in city centre lies close to the Hilton hotel.
Lying a fair distance away from the Mediterranean coast,

176.2.3 By train
in the centre of huge Cilician Plains and on the banks
of Seyhan River, Adana is the fifth most populous city Trains are a slightly slower way of reaching places than
in Turkey with a population of over 1.5 million. It’s not
buses, and for this reason Turkish people will almost al-
much known as a tourism destination, though, especially ways advice against trains for long-distance travel. How-
when compared with its southern and western neighbours.
ever trains are cheaper, and arguably much more com-
However, that being said there are a number of sites of fortable than buses, as Pullman cars have larger seats and
interest in the surrounding countryside. tend to be relatively empty, allowing travelers to have two
Modern Adana consists of two quite separate sections: seats to themselves, as bathrooms are available, and as
cramped old city centre and newer, mostly high-rise sub- on overnight trains sleeping cars are an option, and trains
urbs overlooking the Seyhan dam to north of the old usually have a dining car.
centre, usually called Kuzey Adana or Yeni Adana (i.e. There are currently two overnight trains: the İçanadolu
“North Adana” or “New Adana”, respectively). Mavi Tren departs Haydarpaşa station in Istanbul nightly
Despite its location Adana is a remarkably modern and at 11:50PM, arriving in Adana the next evening around
Western city. This is in large part due to the presence 6:40PM, and stops in Eskişehir, Konya, and Karaman.
of a NATO base in Incirlik, which provides the city with Journey time is just about 19 hours. Ankara is also served
an unusually large population of Westerners, and foreign- by an over-night sleeper named Çukurova Mavi Tren trav-
educated Turks. Adana is also a destination for dental eling via Kayseri and taking around 12 hours (about 4-5
tourism, owing to a large number of cheap, effective, hours to Kayseri). However, a new high-speed service is
English-speaking dentists in the area. being built and travel time from the capital Ankara will
516
176.5. DO 517
be greatly reduced in the near future. Additionally, there 176.4.1 Museums

is a daytime train (the Toros Ekspresi) from Eskişehir via
Afyon and Konya. • Archaeological Museum of Adana. Re-opened
As for international connections, it is no longer possible for visits after restoration (except for stone monu-
to travel here from Syria as the once-weekly train from ments section, still being restored). Free.
Aleppo is now halted indefinitely.
• Atatürk Museum.
176.2.4 By car
• Ethnographic Museum of Adana. Closed for ren-
Driving to Adana is an option; from Ankara, the national ovation.
capital, there is highway all the way (European road num-
ber: E90) but distances are long. The motorway O-21
will connect the two cities, but it doesn't reach any fur- • Misis Mosaic Museum.
ther north from Niğde for the time being. However, even
if there is no motorway for about half of the route from • State Fine Arts Gallery.
Ankara, the current highway has separated directions all
along it, anyway. Once you have passed the pass of Cili-
cian Gates (Gülek Boğazı) through the Taurus Mountains
into the Cilician Plains, take O-51 eastwards. 176.5 Do
• Driving by the lake and seeing the beautiful view is

176.3 Get around one of the things you can do while in Adana. Most
of the locals spend their evenings drinking beer by
• Walking in Adana — you can explore downtown the lake.
Adana by walking. It is very easy and enjoyable to
walk around city centre. • You can visit ancient cities around Adana, such as
Magarsus, Ayas, Commana, Castabala, and Misis.
• City buses — Extensive bus network including city
buses and dolmuş. • You can go to Akyatan Lagoon or Kapuzbasi Wa-
terfall.
• Adana Metro — There is also a subway line, which
recently opened, though on a short stub of 8 stations. • You can swim (in Karataş on the Mediterranean
coast, south of Adana), however Turkish residents
• Many taxis with prices comparable to the rest of the usually go to Mersin when they want to go swim-
country. ming.
• You can go to Aqualand (wave pool, lazy river and

various slides).
176.4 See
• There are 3 saunas in downtown (Yeni Sauna, Bizim
• Çatalan Bridge. Longest bridge in Turkey.
Sauna and Sirin Sauna). Entrance fee is 10 euros,
and massage costs a further 10 euros. Also you can
• Central Park. go to more traditional Turkish baths.
• Justinianus Roman Bridge.
• Seyhan Dam, Love Island, & American Island.

176.6 Buy
Adana has four malls (Optimum, Galleria, M1 and Car-
• Old Dam and Dilberler Seki Road.
refour). Optimum Outlet and M1 Shopping Centre are
the largest. Optimum was opened in mid 2011 and is
• Old Town and the Clock Tower. the newest. M1 and Optimum share many of the same
stores where you can find almost all of the world class
• Sabancı Mosque. One place you should not miss brands. (Real Hypermarket, Praktiker, Media Markt,
while in Adana. The mosque was built in 1999 and Zara, Mudo City, Cinebonus, Tepe Home, Toys R'Us,
is the largest mosque in Turkey. Gap, US Polo)
518 CHAPTER 176. ADANA
176.7 Eat • Starbucks (Ziyapaşa Ave, M1 Shopping Centre,

Cukurova University Campus, New Adana). There
• Adana Kebab. Delicious and famous Adana ke- are 4 Starbucks Coffee shops in Adana, in addition
bap and mezzes, usually accompanied by salgam to one in Incirlik. The one on Ziyapaşa is a popular
(turnip) juice and/or raki (traditional Turkish alco- hangout for expatriates and English-speaking Turks.
holic drink).
• Cafe Ora (On Baraj Rd, close to bus station). Has a 176.9 Sleep
bar on second floor. You can have a bici bici (tradi-
tional Adana sweet) for TRY3 there. • Garajlar Hotel (Near the big mosque). You will
have to pay extra for the bath (TRY5). TRY15.
• Elem Restaurant.
• Hilton Adana (Close to the Seyhan River and city
• Hasan Kolcuoglu (Lake). center). The tallest building in town. Looks quite
strange in a not that big town to have such a huge
• Kazancilar (S Demirel Ave). Hilton Hotel. €100+.
• Mado’s (On Cemal Paşa, Kurttepe, Toros St, Car- • Konya Hotel (Near the big mosque). If you insist,
refour Mall, and M1 Mall). Sweet shop. Higher they can give you a cheaper, small room. The rooms
class than your regular street vendor and a little are clean but there is no heater. TRY20 non-air-con,
pricey, but delicious food. You should eat special TRY30 for rooms with air-con.
Turkish ice cream.
• Park Zirve (Lake). 176.10 Connect
• Sercan (S Demirel Ave). Adana’s telephone code is (+90) 322.
• Yüzevler (Ziyapasa Ave).

176.11 Go next
176.8 Drink Some of the towns and sights around Adana include:
• Istanbul Bar (In Cemalpasa). A cool, chill out • Tarsus — St. Paul’s Well is in a courtyard long be-
bar with groovy music with a wide selection of un- lieved to be the site of St. Paul’s house. You can
usual but fun cocktails! Open until the last customer also visit The Cleopatra Gate, Roman road and Tar-
leaves. sus Museum in Tarsus
• Mersin — situated 65 km west of Adana, another
• Nargile Bar (In New Adana). 16:00-03:00. A
large city in the area, although this one is on the
down-tempo place. This is more for the young
coast.
working class. Many of the patrons are between 20-
30, and for the most part are out of university. Live • Incirlik — situated 10 km east of Adana, site of a
Turkish music is played here almost every night, and NATO base with a majority U.S. presence.
Tuborg Green can be bought on tap for TRY4.50 TL
a pint. • Antakya — a few hours to south, with lots of history.
• Kizkalesi — about 100 km to west, a castle on an
• The North Shield (On Ziyapasa Ave). Generally a islet off shore.
quiet atmosphere that is good to take a few friends
to. • Comana
• Karatepe — ruins of a Hittite city in the pine woods
• Pickup Rock Bar. Downstairs in the Cemalpasa near a dam lake northeast of city.
area, this bar usually has live Turkish bands covering
American rock on weekends. Closed early in the • Anavarza — ruins of a small Roman town with a
week, on the days that it is open, you can get in until ruined bath turned museum about 30min north of
late in the morning. Crowds usually start showing Yilan Castle. You can also hike up the lengthy stair-
up around 23:30, the time the band starts playing. way to reach a large Crusader castle atop a high rock
Efes on tap can be bought here for TRY6 a pint. outcropping overlooking the ruined city.
176.11. GO NEXT 519
• Yılan Castle — Crusader-era castle on the top of

a rocky hill surrounded by endless flat plains east
of city, on the road/railway to Osmaniye. Catch a
minibus heading for Ceyhan to get there, and tell the
driver that you will get off at Yılan Kale. On your
way back, wait for one that is returning to Adana.
• Misis Mosaic Museum — On the historical Silk
Road, at a distance of 26 km. from Adana. The
admission is normally 5 TL, but it is sometimes for
free, as was the case in Sept 2012.
• Kahramanmaraş — a small city in the hills with an
impressive archaeological museum, famous for it’s
ice cream (roughly a 2 1/2 hour bus ride).
• Gaziantep — Turkey’s sixth-largest city, visited

mostly for its mosaic museum and the copper-
workers around the castle (roughly 2 1/2 hours by
bus)
Chapter 177
Incirlik
İncirlik is a town in Cilician Plains, southern Turkey. 177.10 Connect
İncirlik is just next to a NATO air base with a heavy

American presence. As such it looks like a small Ameri-
can town with English signs everywhere.
177.2 Get in
İncirlik lies 10 km east of Adana, one of the major cities
of the country. Dolmuşes run from the center of Adana,
however to gain access to the base one must have autho-
rization, either as an employee or contractor of the US,
British, or Turkish government, or as a guest of the afore-
mentioned.
177.3 Get around
177.4 See
177.5 Do
177.6 Buy
177.7 Eat
177.8 Drink
• Crazy Horse Restaurant, Incirlik.
• Starbucks.
177.9 Sleep
520
Chapter 178
Mersin
The waterfront of Mersin’s Yenişehir district Mersin train station, the western terminus of the Adana–Tarsus–
Mersin commuter line
Mersin is a city in Turkey on the Mediterranean coast,
on the southwestern edge of Cilician Plains. The price is 80 TL for students. You should buy the ticket
Mersin will be hosting the XVII Mediterranean Games before you enter the train, otherwise the price is doubled.
in June 2013. There are trains to and from Istanbul, Eskisehir and
Ankara with a stop-over and change at Yenice, east of
Mersin.
178.1 Understand The only international train link is from Syrian city of
Aleppo, from where weekly trains depart at 3AM on Fri-
Once a small fishermen’s village, Mersin grew as the ex- days, and arriving in Mersin about nine hours later, at
port harbour of the surrounding region, as more and more 12:18PM. They cost € 14 pp. (This train is halted indef-
of the wilderness of the Cilician Plains was ploughed up initely for a while, so it is wise to check before planning
to produce cotton, which was in high demand the world the trip)
around with the start of the industrial revolution in the
textile sector. It still hosts the largest port of the country
today, with its export articles being diversified. 178.2.2 By plane
There are flights to and from Istanbul and Ankara to the

closest airport, Adana Sakirpasa Airport. There are shut-
178.2 Get in tles from the airport to Mersin.
178.2.1 By train
178.2.3 By bus
There are fairly modern and air-con trains every hour or
more frequently during the rush hours to and from Adana There is a bus station in eastern part of the city. There are
and Tarsus. The journey time is between 45-80 minutes, city buses running between the city center and the bus
depending on the number of stops. The price is 5.50 TL station. Usually each bus company has its own shuttles
for one way and 9 TL for a roundtrip. There is an option running between city center, western (coastal part) and
to buy an unlimited card for 110 TL, valid for a month. the bus station.
521
522 CHAPTER 178. MERSIN
From the bus station there are buses to almost every city see several small local restaurants with this special fantas-
in Turkey, including, among others, Gaziantep (5 hours, tic food.
25 TL) and to small cities and villages in Cilician Moun- Haslets are very common ingredients of the food in
tains (the rest of Mersin Province), such as Silifke (2 Mersin. There are dishes made with intestines, lung, liver,
hours, 10 TL). kidneys, stomach, brain. Even though there are restau-
rants serving this food all through out the day, this type
of food can be found easily late at nights. Especially soups
178.3 Get around with inner organs are drank late at night after consump-
tion of alcohol.
178.4 See Cezerye is a mix made of carrots and fig and lots of
spices may also include nuts depending on where you buy
it from.
• Ulu Mosque, in Akdeniz district
Kerebic is dessert unique to this area. It is a dough filled
• Mugdat Mosque (Hz Mikdat Mosque), in with pistachios and served with vegetarian cream on top
Yenişehir district of it.
• Flamingo Park Künefe is also another dessert completely unique to the
Arabic influenced areas. Its oven baked shredded pastry
• Ataturk’s House with salt-free cheese filling in thick syrup. Although its
• Yenişehir Urban Forest (Yenişehir Kent Ormanı) really requires a developed taste, it carries the spirit of the
vicinity
178.5 Do
178.8 Drink
• Walk on the Antic Road, constructed in Roman Pe-
riod. Şalgam can be found on every street in Mersin even
though it is a drink from Adana. Good examples of local
• Mounted excursion in an ambient within nature at
brands are Serafressh (with double s) and Turnib (with
mounted sports club.
b, not p). Since the cities in Çukurova all have similar
cuisines taste of Salgam doesn't differ that much.
178.6 Buy In the past there were many Boyan (licorice drink) sellers
in the city center. Such drink still exists but cannot be
found easily.
Buy very high quality leather jackets from the bazaar just
beside Holly Mosque (local name Ulu Cami). Don't for- Kaynar is another local drink, generally served to cele-
get to bargain, and after bargaining for 15 minutes, you brate a newborn. It is usually served hot with cinnamon
might be able to buy leather jacket for half price. There is and walnut. The ingredients of kaynar can be found in
an antique store behind the Mersin Hotel specialising in some stores and can be a cheap exotic gift.
prayer beads. The prices range from 10 TL to over 5000
TL and it is hard to evaluate the price; the 50TL-100TL
range is adequate for a souvenir. Dösim Store is a trust- 178.9 Sleep
worhty place to buy a souvenir; the prices are fixed (no
bargaining) and often cheaper than other stores. Since
it is a public institution, the products are authentic and There are many hotels in the city, but one of the best ones
usually come with a certificate in English. Dösim store is is Sultasa Hotel. It is a kind of in the city center. The
beside the Atatürk’s House in Mersin. entrance fee for this place is 35YTL excluding accom-
modation. For accommodation, you should pay 80YTL
more.
• Mersin Forum AVM is a large mall in Yenişehir
district.
178.10 Go next
178.7 Eat
• Kizkalesi (Maiden’s Castle) and Cennet-
Tantuni, finely minced fried meat and onion wrap, is one Cehennem (Heaven-Hell) are located west of
of the most famous food in this region. Don't leave the city, about 60 km away, on the Mediterranean
city without tasting it. In the center of the city, you will shore.
178.10. GO NEXT 523
• Adam Kayalar — Near Cennet-Cehennem, a few

km inland, are many ruins, ancient gravings and hu-
man body reliefs carved on rocks.
• Tarsus to the east is a historical wonder by richness

of religious and biblical entities’ mausoleums.
Chapter 179
Tarsus
179.5 Buy
If you are wondering in the city, or if you somehow hap-
pen to be in the city, never ever forget to buy Cezerye:
some kind of a Turkish delight that has a different tex-
ture and taste. You should for sure try shalgam too but
you might not be able to see it due to it being a seasonal
drink that is sour and bitter, refreshing though.
179.6 Eat
Cleopatra’s gate, Tarsus, Mersin.jpg 179.7 Drink

Tarsus is a city in Mediterranean Turkey, located be-
tween Mersin and Adana.
179.8 Sleep
179.9 Connect
179.1 Get in
179.10 Go next
179.1.1 By train
Fairly modern and very frequent trains from Adana and

Mersin. The trunk line bypasses the city about a few km
to the east. Yenice is the nearest trunk line station and
has daily connections to main centres of the country such
as Istanbul and Ankara.
179.2 Get around
179.3 See
The city has lots to see from Roman and Biblical times,
such as the Well of St Paulus.
179.4 Do
524
Chapter 180
Hatay
Hatay is a province in southeastern part of 180.5 Talk

Mediterranean Turkey, bordering Syria.
Almost all people in the province can speak Turkish, al-
though with a heavy accent in most cases. Also, the Syr-
ian dialect of Arabic is the native tongue for many people
180.1 Regions in many parts of the province.
180.2 Cities
180.6 Get in
• Antakya, also known as Antioch — the provincial
capital; a riverside city with a great Mosaic Museum 180.6.1 By air
and the hub for sites of early Christianity in the sur-
rounding countryside Domestic flights are available to Hatay Airport which
is located about 25 km away from Antakya. However,
nearest airport with international connections is located
• Iskenderun, also known as Alexandretta — the
in Adana to the north.
biggest city of the province, situated on the shore of
Mediterranean Sea, with a pleasant palm-lined wa-
terfront
180.6.2 By train
The only significant settlement in the province with a

railline is Iskenderun, which has several daily train con-
180.3 Other destinations nections with Adana and Mersin. Since 2008, trains
have been suspended for railtrack improvements between
180.4 Understand Adana and Iskenderun. For updates, visit Turkish State
Railways (TCDD) website .
The province, which was then known as Sandjak

(county) of Alexandretta, was under French control as 180.6.3 By car
a part of the French Mandate of Syria between 1920 and
1938. In 1938, it appeared on the maps as the indepen- The main highway connecting the province to the rest of
dent State of Hatay. Following a plebiscite a year later, Turkey to the north is the motorway O-53 (toll-road).
it joined Turkey as the Hatay Province in 1939. There are also secondary highways as well, some of which
It’s easy to point out Hatay on maps, even on those show- eventually reaches one of many border posts located on
ing full continents, as it is where the southern border of the Turkish-Syrian border.
Turkey, which follows roughly a straight line in a west-
east fashion extends significantly southwards. Situated
on the very northeastern corner of the Mediterranean 180.7 Get around
Sea, where northern shores lying on a west-east direction
curves into the Middle Eastern shore stretching north to
south (traditionally known as the coasts of the Levant), 180.8 See
it’s possible to find long and sandy beaches popular with
the locals in the region, although the traditional centre of 180.8.1 Itineraries
the region, Antakya/Antioch, is an inland city.
525
526 CHAPTER 180. HATAY
180.9 Do
180.10 Eat
180.11 Drink
180.12 Sleep
180.13 Stay safe
180.14 Connect
The telephone code of the province is 326, which should
be prefixed with 0 when calling from elsewhere in Turkey,
or with +90 when calling from outside of Turkey.
180.15 Go next
With two border posts (one leading to Aleppo, and the
other to Latakia), Hatay is usually a jumping off point
for trips into Syria to south. The neighbouring regions of
Cilician Plains to northwest and Southeastern Anatolia to
northeast also have many cultural similarities with Hatay.
Chapter 181
Antakya
Antakya, also known as Antioch, Antioch-on-the- the hotel, as not many people utilise this service, so make
Orontes is the capital of Hatay Province, Mediterranean your presence known as it drives past.
Turkey. It is not to be confused with Antalya, another city
You can also use Dolmuş Taxis in order to get to the city
in Mediterranean Turkey, several hundred kilometers to
center. Many dolmuş taxis wait just in front of the airport
the west. and as soon as any four customers are gathered, the taxi
heads towards the city. The taxis charge approximately
10 lira per person. All in all, if you accept to share the
181.1 Understand taxi with other passengers, taking a cab is preferable to
Havaş as the taxi drops you off in whichever part of the
This city in the very south of Turkey was an important city you want to get out while Havaş only stops at specific
centre of early Christianity, with some of the first non- points.
hidden churches. Today it’s a truly multicultural place,
where you can hear prayers in many different tongues.
Many sects of Christianity (Greek Orthodoxy, Syriac 181.2.2 By train
Christianity, Roman Catholicism, Protestantism to name
The nearest station is in Iskenderun, which has several
a few) and Islam (Sunni and Alawi), as well as Judaism,
daily train connections with Adana and Mersin.
are all represented with their dedicated temples in An-
takya.
Ethnically, Arabs constitute almost half of the population 181.2.3 By bus
whereas the other half is constituted by Turks. Arabs in
the city speak Levantine (Shami) dialect of Arabic, which Has Turizm operates comfortable buses from all major
is also prevalent in Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan. cities in Turkey. There are also bus connections with
Aleppo, Syria.
The city is not located on the sea-shore, but the Asi River
(formerly known as the Orontes River) flows through the The otogar is located about 7 kilometers from the city
city center. center. Once you arrive look for minibuses to take you
within walking distance of the center. Many of the hotels
are located on Istiklal street.
181.2 Get in To get from Antakya to Aleppo in Syria, the best option is
to catch a bus from the central bus station (otogar) outside
of town. It’s too far to walk there, but there are bus con-
181.2.1 By air
nections from the town centre. The journey to Aleppo
Domestic flights are available to Hatay Airport, 25 km should cost you 10 Turkish Lira (2009). Keep in mind
from the city center. However, the nearest international that the last bus (during Ramadan) leaves at 11AM! This
airport is located in Adana, a couple of hundred kilome- might be different outside of Ramadan, though. You can
tres to the north. The 'Havas’ bus runs from the airport also try to catch a taxi from the town centre, which can be
hourly to the city centre for 9 lira, and takes around 20– fairly difficult, as you normally have to wait until there are
30 minutes. If you need to get back to the airport, the enough people sharing the taxi. The journey should cost
Havas leaves from the front of the 'Buyuk Antakya Ho- you around 25 Turkish Lira each if the taxi gets full. If
tel' (on the river, close to the Mosaic Museum; it' a huge you don't want to wait, you can pay for the whole taxi and
resort style hotel, you can't miss it) every half hour most depart immediately, which is going to be about 100-120
days, but check the Havas website for specific departure Turkish Lira.
times. This is a lot cheaper than a taxi! Please note that Don't try to cross the border step by step! The Lonely
you will have to flag the Havas bus down from the front of Planet mentions this option, which means you catch a
527
528 CHAPTER 181. ANTAKYA
bus to the Turkish border control, hitchhike to the Syrian They put Roman legionnaires, sailors and prisoners to
border (which is about 5 km away, and you are not al- work cutting a channel along and through the rock for
lowed to walk) and then take a taxi from there to Aleppo. about 1.4 km (nearly a mile).
You should be prepared for an extremely time-consuming Continued under Emperor Titus (79-81), inscriptions tell
trip. There’s no other possibility to get from the Turk- us it was completed during the reigns of the Antonine em-
ish border control to the Syrian one than waiting for a perors decades later.
car to hitchhike. This can take some hours. At the Syr-
ian border neither buses nor taxis are to be found, so you Today the channel is dry, but still worth a visit. A small
will have to hitchhike again. Most people will charge you parking area and entrance is just inland from the beach
for hitchhiking, and normally they will try to rip you off. at Samandag. A path ascends along the channel, open to
Speaking Turkish and/or Arabic will certainly help, but the sky, up and down steps and rocks, to where an arched
if you don't, this trip is going to be really difficult. Apart limestone footbridge crosses.
from that it’s more expensive than the direct bus. Above the footbridge, the channel continues into the solid
rock. You'll need a powerful flashlight/torch to continue.
181.3 Get around

181.5 Do
181.4 See
181.6 Buy
• Mosaic Museum (Mozaik Müzesi) or the Antakya
Archeological Museum in the city has the second • Thanks to the large laurel (Laurus nobilis) groves
largest collection of classical/Roman mosaics in the on the mountains surrounding the city, laurel soaps
world. The museum also features a good coin col- (defne sabunu, also known as garlı sabun locally),
lection, artifacts from the Iron and Bronze Ages which are said to have some benefits on the skin and
found in sites nearby and a very impressive sarcoph- hair, are unique to this city and are made of local
agus with great reliefs. You can check many items olive oil with some laurel extract stirred in.
from the collection through the official website of
the museum:
181.7 Eat
• One of the oldest churches of Christianity, Church
of St. Peter, is a must see in Antakya. Entrance
The city is known for its tasty cuisine (one of the most
to the church is 8 lira (as of November 2010). The
delicious in Turkey), which has many Middle Eastern in-
church is about a 30 minute walk from the museum.
fluences. One of the must eats in Antakya is a dessert
To reach the church you need to go across from the
called Künefe, which is a shredded pastry with cheese.
museum, through the bazaar and at the end (when
There are many Künefe houses scattered in the city, but
you exit the bazaar) make a left and go on for about
they are especially concentrated in the main square of the
over a kilometer - the church will be visible up on
city, Köprübaşı. Hatay Künefe and Kral Künefe, both lo-
the hillside.
cated in Köprübaşı, are among the most famous Künefe
houses in the city.
• Büyük Antakya Parkı is the park that is located
There are many restaurants in the city center, but most of
just in the midst of the city, by the River Asi and be-
them serve döner and other fast food. In order to try local
hind the famous mosaic museum of the city. Many
cuisine, try Anadolu Restaurant (in Saray Caddesi), Sul-
locals visit the park during the day, and especially
tan Sofrası Restaurant (in Köprübaşı) or Sveyka Restau-
early in the morning to do sports. Note that there
rant (in Kurtuluş Caddesi). As for döner restaurants,
are many open air tea houses within the park, hence
Restaurant Nuri and Restaurant Abdo (both in Saray Cad-
it’s the address to go for a tea or coffee or hookah
desi) are the most famous ones for Et Döner (beef döner)
when the weather is nice.
whereas Kebo, a tiny place located in Atatürk Caddesi, is
• Titus Tunnel, Cevlik, Samandağı, Antakya. The the most famous place for Tavuk Döner (chicken döner).
Titus Tunnel (Titüs Tüneli) is a Roman engineering Note that Harbiye, a touristic municipality which is 10
marvel. km away from Antakya, has many restaurants as well and
people frequently go from Antakya to Harbiye for long
During the reign of Emperor Vespasian (69-79 AD), the dinners.
Roman governors of Seleucia Pieria (Samandag), the port
city for Antioch ad Orontes (Antakya), decided to divert • Ornikos, Pisirim Merkezi, Fish Market Area. To
a river. eat like the locals, go to the Fish Market and buy a
181.10. CONNECT 529
couple of fresh ones from the iced bins, then take +903262149001. Cheap and cheerful, popular with
them to the nearby cafe Ornikos where for a small down-on-their-luck freelance journalists. Hot wa-
fee you can have your fish cooked and served up with ter, wi-fi, simple breakfast served from 7-10 a.m.
house salad and a beer. Rooms are clean and relatively quiet Singles start at
40TL..
181.8 Drink
181.10 Connect
• Cabaret Bar, Central Antakya. An upstairs bar
which opens out on the first floor of the building, Telephone code of Antakya is 326.
with a balcony, and front windows overlooking the
pedestrianised street below. As of June 2011, there
was a live band playing Turkish covers, and it looks 181.11 Go next
like live music is a regular feature. Beers are inex-
pensive and the waitress service good. Located in
• With extensive transportation links to Syrian city of
Saray Caddesi.
Aleppo, you can use the city as a transportation hub
if and when the Civil War in Syria is over. Antakya
• Saklı Ev Cafe, Central Antakya. An old Antakya- was the jumping off point of most overland travellers
style house, restored and transformed into a cosy into the Middle East before the conflict.
café. It’s not mostly famous for its food, but rather
for its ambiance. Serves a variety of food and
drinks, including beer. It’s one of the places where
you can try one of the local desserts, “haytalı". The
name of the café means “the Hidden House”. It’s lo-
cated near the end of Saray Caddesi where it meets
with Kurtuluş Caddesi.
181.9 Sleep
• Ottoman Palace. A five-star thermal resort and spa
convention center.
• Büyük Antakya Oteli. A four-star hotel in the city.
• Hotel Mozaik, İstiklal Caddesi 18 (Sultan Sofrası

Üstü), ☎ +90 326 215-50-20/21/22/23. Located
in the city center, the hotel rooms are very clean.
Quoted 75 lira with breakfast for a single room,
100TL for a double (November 2010 prices)
• Onur hotel, Istiklal cadessi. A 3 star hotel, clean
rooms and bathroom, Quoted 60TL for a single
(November 2010 prices), staff speaks English
• The Liwan Hotel, Silahli Kuvvetler Cad. No 5, ☎
+90 326 215 7777. First and only boutique hotel
in Antakya. The building was used as presidential
residence of the former Syrian president. Central
location with walking distance to historical places.
• Savon Hotel, Kurtuluş Cad. No:192, ☎ +90.326
214 63 55. Former soap factory converted to a ho-
tel in 2001, located in the old city area of Antakya,
between the Mosaic Museum and the Church of St.
Peter.
• Hotel Saray, Hürriyet Cad. No. 3 (A multi-
story building in the pedestrianized street.), ☎
Chapter 182
Iskenderun
İskenderun, also known as Alexandretta, is a city in 182.3 Get around

Hatay, Mediterranean Turkey. It’s located on the coast
of Mediterranean Sea. There are no dolmuşes in Iskenderun, and though there
may be city buses, they're not easy for one to figure out
with no Turkish. The center of town is walkable, however
to get from the town center to the bus station, you're best
182.1 Understand off taking a taxi, which should cost about 10-15 lira.
This is one of the few still-existing cities in the world

which was founded by, and indeed gets its name from 182.4 See
Alexander the Great (who is known as Büyük İskender
in Turkish), with Alexandria in Egypt being the other • There is a Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi), which
notable example. İskenderun today has a population contains artifacts from the Ottoman navy, and a
of about 300,000 people and is an industrialized city, room dedicated to the reincorporation of Hatay
surrounded by petrochemical plants and steelworks, al- (for several decades ruled by France) into Turkey.
though the city centre is still enjoyable with its lovely Though admission is only eight lira, photography re-
palm-lined promenade on the shore of the sea. quires payment of a ten-lira fee.
• On the waterfront, there is a big globe surrounded
by flags of Turkic countries, and a park with a num-
182.2 Get in ber of interesting structures.
182.2.1 by air 182.5 Do

Nearest airport for international flights is located in
Adana to the north. For domestic flights, Hatay Airport 182.6 Buy
located in the outskirts of Antakya to the south (45 min.
driving) is another possibility alongside Adana Airport.
182.7 Eat
182.2.2 by train 182.8 Drink

There is a train station in the city with trains once in the
morning to Adana and Mersin, and once in the evening 182.9 Sleep
from those cities.
182.10 Connect
182.2.3 by car The telephone code of İskenderun is 326 (dial +90 326
when calling from out of Turkey).
The city is connected to the rest of Turkey by the mo-
torway numbered O-53 (toll-road). The southward road
towards Antakya and Syria is also well-paved but windy 182.11 Go next
when crossing the mountain range inbetween.
530
Chapter 183
Lakes District
For various other locations around the world from, and less travelled than its coastal neighbours to the
with a similar name, see Lake District. south.
Lakes District more or less corresponds to the region
Lakes District (Turkish: Göller Yöresi) is in named Pisidia in ancient times. In modern administra-
Mediterranean Turkey. tive terms, Lakes District occupies Isparta and Burdur
Provinces.
183.1 Regions
183.5 Talk
183.2 Cities
183.6 Get in
• Akşehir — the pleasant hometown of Nasrettin
Hoca, a Sufi that is the source of an endless num- 183.6.1 On foot
ber of satires
Saint Paul Trail, a 500-so km marked hiking trail, starts
• Burdur — on the shore of Lake Burdur
from east of Antalya and ends near Yalvaç on the shore
• Eğirdir — pleasant town on the shore of its name- of Lake Eğirdir.
sake lake, northern hub for hiking St Paul Trail
• Isparta — known as the “city of roses”, because of 183.7 Get around

the large oil-rose fields around it
183.8 See
183.8.1 Itineraries
• Sagalassos near the town of Ağlasun is one of the
major Roman cities of the region.
183.9 Do
• Yazılı Kanyon National Park (Yazılı Kanyon Milli
Parkı) — 10 km southwest of the village of Sütçüler,
this national park is centred around a 10-km long,
183.10 Eat
100 to 400 mt deep canyon, surrounded by ver-
dant mountains. Canyoning is a possible activity in 183.11 Drink
the canyon, parts of which house hermitages dating
back to Byzantine period (hence the name, which
translates “inscripted canyon” in Turkish). 183.12 Stay safe
Scattered by a number of lakes large and small, fresh and

salty alike, this inland region north of coastal Pamphylia
over the Taurus mountain chain, is substantially different
531
Chapter 184
Akşehir
Akşehir is a city of Konya Province in the Lakes District. 184.2 Get in
184.2.1 By bus
184.1 Understand Buses run from the Konya bus station, and you may be
able to catch a minibus/dolmuş from the center of Konya.
It’s possible that buses may also run to Isparta, Burdur,
and Afyon, which are all nearby.
184.2.2 By train
Akşehir’s train station, which lies about 2.5 km north-

east of the town centre, is served by all trains which
ply the rail route between Afyon and Konya. However,
due to the massive railtrack renovations in northwestern
Turkey, it is not currently possible to take a train all the
way from Istanbul (and will remain so until at least 2014),
and as such, besides Afyon, and Konya, the list of major
towns from which a direct train ride to Akşehir is avail-
able is limited to Izmir, Manisa, and Uşak west of Afyon,
Eskişehir, and Kütahya north of Afyon, and Karaman,
and Adana beyond Konya to the south.
184.3 Get around
184.4 See
• Tomb of Nasreddin Hoca — though there’s appar-
ently some controversy over whether or not this is
Statue of Nasreddin Hoca, Akşehir’s most famous resident actually his tomb.
• Tomb of Seydi Mahmut — Another important

Dating back to the Hellenistic era when it was founded as Sufi, prominent disciple of Rumi.
Philomelion, Akşehir (meaning “White City”) became
an important city during the Seljuk era, as a center of
Turco-Persian culture.
The city is best known as the home of Nasreddin Hoca or
184.5 Do
Mullah Nasruddin, a wise fool and Sufi sage famous for
his folk wit. The city features in many of Hoca’s stories, • Come between July 5–10 for the annual Hoca fes-
and holds a Hoca festival every year from July 5–10. tival, and celebrate the life and legacy of the Hoca.
532
184.11. GO NEXT 533
Tomb of Nasreddin Hoca
184.6 Buy
184.7 Eat
184.8 Drink
184.9 Sleep
184.10 Connect
184.11 Go next
• If you didn't come from Konya, consider going
there, to visit the tomb of another Sufi sage (and
poet): Rumi founder of the whirling dervishes.
• Otherwise, consider going further into the Lakes
District, a little-explored area of Turkey.
Chapter 185
Burdur
Burdur is in Turkey's Lakes District, inland from the 185.4 See

Mediterranean coast.
Burdur Museum is a must see, it offers more than you
can expect from such a little city. The museum is awarded
a special prize from European Museums Forum in 2008.
185.1 Understand You may either buy a ticket or buy a Museum Card which
is 4-5 times of a regular ticket price. A museum card is
Burdur is a small city with 250.000 inhabitants, 80.000 valid for a year and allows the bearer to enter most muse-
of whom live in the city center. It is one of the oldest ums for free. Beside the museum, there is a little antique
settlements in the world, dating back to 7000 BC. Bur- store with not much to offer but still, it is worth a look.
dur is a cosy city offering natural and historical treasures (Bargaining is advised and keep in mind that some old
but not much of a nightlife. One day is more enough for coins cannot be taken out of the country: Even carrying
the city center for examining the architecture, visiting the them may violate laws.)
museum, meeting with the warm people and tasting the
delicious food. Another day should be spend for the sur-
roundings; ancient city, cavern and the lakes. The origin
of the name Burdur has several rumors. In Greek mythol-
ogy, Ulis, escaping from the gods heard Ezostas (“stop
here” in Latin) and located here. The translation of the
Ezostas (Burada Dur) transforms into Burdur. Another
rumor is that the name comes from the Tumulus near the
train station, Polydorion. One rumor is that the name is
transformed from the word “Limobrama”, old name of
the region meaning “the land of the lakes”. There are at
least ten other rumors.
Burdur Yukarı Pazar

185.2 Get in
A traveller should visit Yukarı Pazar (Upper Bazaar)
which is around the Ulu Cami (which is the most remark-
185.3 Get around able mosque in Burdur) Although there is too little to buy
as a souvenir, the atmosphere is lovely. You will feel like
travelling in time, 30 years before present time. If acci-
Burdur is not a big city so walking is advised to tour all dentally the bazaar day is catched, incredibly tasty fruits
of the city. The city center has mainly few main roads should be bought without hesitation. In the mid-day, you
crossing each other and there is no need for a public trans- may encounter the part of the funeral ceremony and final
portation. If needed, dolmus (little buses) may be used. prayer for the deceased in Ulu Cami. Although it is a de-
It is hard to pick a taxi from the roads so calling a taxi is pressing sight, if you are still interested, you should avoid
advised. The taxis are secure and drivers almost never try mixing with the crowd and taking photographs. No one
to cheat, but the rates are relatively more expensive than will offend you, but it is considered to be rude. From Ulu
other cities. Cami, the perfect route will be towards the Eski Hamam
Burdur people are very kind and helpful for directions but (Old Turkish Bath). Although the hamam is ruined, the
there may be some communication problems with elderly narrow curved roads with cobblestones between architec-
people. Try to approach youngsters to communicate in turally beautiful houses gives a warm feeling. Try to com-
English. municate with the elderly people sitting on the sidewalks
534
185.8. DRINK 535
(you can always see them). Even if they know no English 185.8 Drink
at all, they will welcome you, even invite you for a cup of
tea. In Burdur, people are not bigots, but still do not men-
tion alcohol and/or gay related subjects, especially with 185.9 Sleep
elderly people.
There are no youth hostels in Burdur.
There are a few cheap hotels near bus station, but do not
185.5 Do expect much. They were established mainly for the rela-
tives of the soldiers in the nearby fleet and since the num-
ber of soldiers in the fleet is greatly reduced, they are open
185.6 Buy for bargaining.
If you can spare a little bit, there are some hotels near the
185.7 Eat Salda Lake with a good view.
The recent hotel with 4 stars is Grand Ozeren, near the
Burdur Şiş: Nice juicy meatbals cooked in shape of a stadium. The rooms are good and you can use the Sauna
stripe. A standard portion is composed of 3-5 stripes and and Turkish Bath. The prices (including breakfast) are
served with pita bread. Easy to find, a portion costs 6- 130 TL for a single room and 220 TL for a double one.
10 TL. The waiter usually asks if you want one and a half
portion, it is your call to accept or not. The price is simply
multiplied with 1,5 or a little discount is executed. (If one
portion is 7 TL, 1.5 portion is probably 10 TL)
185.10 Connect
Kıymalı Pide: Long thin pizza with minced meat, gen-
erally served with ayran (liquid yogurt) and salad. You 185.11 Go next
should eat fast, it is delicious when hot. If you are vegetar-
ian, you can order pide with cheese (peynirli pide) which
is as good. A portion costs 6-10 TL, 1.5 portion rule is
also valid.
You can find pide and şiş on most restaurants. Öz Sarı (for
pide) and Emniyet (for şiş) are good restaurants but they
are %20-30 more expensive than others. Both are on the
main street of the Burdur and you can not miss. After the
main dish, you should try the sweets, especially Kadayıf
if possible. If you order Kadayıf, the waiter asks if you
want cream on top of it. The cream affects the price. A
portion of kadayıf usually costs 4-6 TL and cream adds
1-2 TL on top of it.
Tipping has no determined rules, leaving the coins with a
maximum of 5 TL is enough if you are satisfied with the
service.
Kökez Yoğurdu: The yogurt from the village of Kökez,
which has its own specific taste. Hard to find since it runs
out at 6AM in the morning, still it is worth a try. (Warn-
ing: The bacteria level of milk products may be different
in different countries and if your threshold is low, you
may get diarrhea even if no one else is affected)
Ceviz Ezmesi: Wallnut pastry, a diamond shaped sweet
that can only be found in Burdur. Made with %70 wallnut
and %30 sugar by volume. It makes a good present since
it is local and will stay fresh for weeks.
Kayım Ice Cream: Kayım is a family who makes ice
cream for decades. With the same name, different ice
cream stores with different owners can be encountered.
Upper Kayım, which is in the Upper Bazaar is advised.
It is delicious, cheap but the choices are scarce. Try all
flavours, especially fruit flavours which has unique taste.
Chapter 186
Lycia
Lycia (Turkish: Likya) is the westernmost section of • Korkuteli — a town up on the Taurus Mountains
Mediterranean Turkey. Lycia is also popularly known as
Turquoise Coast, and forms a substantial part of Turk- • Marmaris — another relatively big town; a little
ish Riviera. With clear waters and beautiful Mediter- touristy, but nice resort serving as one of the gate-
ranean coastline, the region is great for divers, swimmers ways for “Blue Voyage”
and yachting.
• Simena (a.k.a. Kaleköy) — last town yet to be
connected to national highway system; this coastal
186.1 Regions town dominated by a hilltop Byzantine citadel is hub
for visiting Lycian ruins of “sunken city” on nearby
Kekova Island
186.2 Cities
• Beldibi — seaside resort town south of Antalya 186.3 Other destinations
• Dalaman — region’s airport is located here, as well
as an accidentally built train station • Butterfly Valley (Faralya) — a deep canyon with sea
on one side and some rare butterflies with the only
• Demre — near the Lycian ruins of Myra, this is access from the sea or a hard climb down via a nar-
the town where St Nicholas, better known as Santa row path
Claus, lived
• Dalyan — miles of channels meandering around
• Elmali — a town high in the western Taurus moun-
marshlands, beach where endangered caretta caretta
tains, great as a starting place for hikes onto Mt Kı-
turtles lay eggs, and nearby rock tombs engraved on
zlarsivrisi, the highest peak of the surrounding re-
hillsides
gion
• Fethiye — primary city of the region; surrounded by • Kabak Canyon — a coastal canyon similar to Butter-
verdant mountains, Lycian ruins, and turqouise sea; fly Valley, but remoter, although accessible overland
gateway to Ölüdeniz–the Blue Lagoon
• Kayaköy — an abandoned village with hundreds of
• Göcek — yachter’s mecca on the tip of a bay with partially ruined houses south of Fethiye
lots of secluded coves and islands, all covered with
pine forests • Kızkumu — a sandbar lying just a few centime-
tres/inches underwater, enclosing a cove on the
• Kalkan — coastal town with whitewashed Mediter- shore of Bozburun Peninsula just south of Marmaris
ranean architecture
• The ancient Lycian town of Myra, now Demre
• Kaş — coastal town with some well-preserved tra-
ditional architecture
• Ölüdeniz — the “Blue Lagoon”
• Kemer — a coastal resort city
• Olympos — backpacker destination full of wooden
• Kınık — hub for visiting nearby Xanthos and tree-houses and rich nightlife
Letoon, political and religious capitals of ancient
Lycia respectively, both on the UNESCO World • Saklıkent — a stunning inland gorge, great for a
Heritage List leisurely hike
536
186.6. GET IN 537
prefer to call it Muğlaca, i.e. “Muğla language”, instead

of the usual term of Muğla şivesi, i.e. “Muğla dialect”).
However, all people in the region, except perhaps older
ones living in remote villages, can speak standard Turk-
ish (albeit with a slight accent usually), and, thanks to
heavy tourism in the region, if you don't intend to hike
between mountain hamlets, English will likely be suffi-
cient to communicate anyway.
186.6 Get in
186.6.1 By air
Lycian rock tombs at Fethiye, typical of many you'll see around
while in Lycia. Dalaman Airport (IATA: DLM), with its international
connections, is the sole airport of the region, and makes a
convenient hub into the region. The internatinal airport in
186.4 Understand Antalya is closer to the towns at the easternmost reaches
of the region (such as Kemer, and Olympos), though. Kaş
lies somewhere around the midway, being equally (and
Rugged and forested, pine-clad mountains in Lycia de-
considerably) distant to both, with 180 km to Dalaman
scent right to the coastline heavily indentated with gulfs
and 192 km to Antalya, so a good rule of thumb is, if
and coves, making the region top yachting area in the
your destination is west of Kaş, pick Dalaman, and for
country.
destinations east of Kaş, fly into Antalya.
Geographically, Lycia occupies Teke Peninsula, a large
U-shaped expanse of land between Gulf of Fethiye to
the west and Gulf of Antalya to the east, in the south- 186.6.2 By bus
western corner of the country. In modern political terms,
Lycia forms southern half of Muğla Province and west- Most towns in the region have direct bus connections to
ern third of Antalya Province, which divide Lycia into the major cities of the country, such as Istanbul, Izmir,
roughly equal halves along north-south flowing Eşen Çayı, and Ankara.
or Xanthos River as it was known in ancient times.
Ancient Lycia was a democratic federation of city states, 186.6.3 By car
which is thought to have influenced the United States con-
stitution. Today, most towns in the region have some Highway D400 connects the region with Pamphylia in the
remnants from the ancient Lycian civilization, in the form east along the coast, with a connection to D330 in Gökova
of sacrophagii, distinctive rock tombs, or city ruins. towards north (Muğla, Kuşadası, Izmir).
Unlike its neighbour to east, Pamphylia, which welcomes
its visitors in large all-inclusive resorts, Lycia is more of
an independent traveller destination and tourism in the 186.6.4 By boat
region evolves around small guesthouses and fairly pleas-
ant coastal towns, some of which such as Olympos still There are ferries between some towns in Lycia and
preserving their hippy-ish atmosphere. However, some nearest Greek islands.
large resorts—not up to scale that is found in Pamphylia,
though—are present here too, in the western (around
Marmaris, and Fethiye) and eastern (around Kemer) ends 186.7 Get around
of the region, as long as geography permits.
Towns in the region are connected to each other with fre-
quent minibus (dolmuş) services.
186.5 Talk
186.7.1 By thumb
Local dialect of Turkish is highly different from the of-
ficial standard (which is based on Istanbul dialect), and Hitchhiking, while possible if you don't mind waiting for
with much of its vocabulary being totally incomprehen- a lift up to two hours, is not really an easy way to travel
sible to even non-local Turks, it can even be objectively around the region. Hitching from around Olympos in the
regarded as a language on its own (some half-jokingly east is definitely better, though.
538 CHAPTER 186. LYCIA
186.7.2 On foot
Lycian Way (Turkish: Likya Yolu), a marked hiking
trail which is a collection of ancient paths and forest
trails, starts from south of Fethiye and connects most of
coastal towns and villages in the region, and extends be-
yond regional boundary to Pamphylia in the east, towards
Antalya.
186.8 See
186.8.1 Itineraries
186.9 Do
• Hiking — Hiking is a great option to get more in
touch with the history and nature of the area. There
are lots of waymarked hiking trails (most of which
does not exceed 10 km in length) with varying lev-
els of hardness in the region, in addition to the grand
Lycian Way. One place surrounded by a dense (rel-
atively speaking) marked trail network is Kayaköy.
• Cruising — Lycian coasts are some of the most
spectacular and rightly popular sections along a Blue
Cruise.
186.10 Eat
186.11 Drink
Free cold water dispensers, or sebils as they are locally
known, are abundant in the region, more so than the rest
of Mediterranean Turkey.
186.12 Stay safe
186.13 Go next
• Pamphylia to east, while has much in common with
Lycia due to both being on the Mediterranean, has a
fairly different character as far as travellers are con-
cerned, due to mass tourism and package tourists
there.
• In Southern Aegean to north, Greek ruins substitute
Lycian ruins, and olive grooves replace pine forests.
• Rhodes and some other smaller islands belonging to
the Dodecanese group lie just off Lycian coasts, to
southwest and south, receiving direct ferries from
the nearest Turkish harbour towns.
Chapter 187
Beldibi
Beldibi is a seaside resort town in Lycia on the Anafartalar and Konyaalti Caddesi on the Antalya water-
Mediterranean coast of Turkey, west of the city of front.
Antalya. It is located halfway between Antalya and
A dolmus from the Migros to Beldibi costs roughly
Kemer. 25TL/person split between 3 passengers.
187.1 Understand
187.3 Get around
Beldibi is centered around tourism. Most of the town is
laid out such that resorts are located along the sea side of Beldibi is not very large, and only has one major street, so
Atatürk Caddesi and strip malls are located on the side of it is possible to walk across the entire town. Since most
the Taurus Mountains. The strip malls contain clothing of the business located in Beldibi carry similar selections,
stores, pharmacies, convenience stores, and restaurants. it is not necessary to walk more than 10 minutes in any
direction from.
Public transportation is via bus no. 28 which travels be-
187.2 Get in tween Kemer and Antalya and Sahil buses. Taxis and dol-
muş are also available.
Beldibi is accessible from Antalya via the D400 highway
which runs along the coast. There is a turn off for Beldibi
which connects to Atatürk Caddesi which is the main
street through Beldibi. The drive takes roughly 25–35 187.4 See
minutes depending on traffic, which can be heavy close
to Antalya. Traffic police patrol the road more frequently
than south of Kemer, so avoid speeding. Beldibi is focused on the resorts located in the town and
does not have attractions itself. There are seaside public
The cheapest access from Antalya Airport is to travel via parks located nearby the town along the D400.
the public bus (such as line 202) to the bus stop north of
the traffic circle near the Migros shopping center located Phaselis (or Faselis), is an ancient city (now only ruins)
at the intersection of Antalyaspor Altgeçidi, Yüzüncü Yıl located south of Beldibi, past Kemer. Switch to a Sahil
Bulvarı, and the D400 highway. Walk south to the traffic bus headed for Tekirova in Kemer and ask the driver to
circle and catch the public no. 28 bus towards Kemer stop at “antique Phaselis”.
(as of 2010, the cost was 2.25TL per person). Alter- Göynük, which is several kilometers south of Beldibi,
natively, Sahil buses also travel via Beldibi to Kemer at has additional shopping and also is the starting point
roughly twice the cost. The public buses are equipped for a hike into the Taurus Mountains along the Göynük
with Google Maps and GPS on a monitor at the front of Canyon, from where you can connect to the much longer
the bus so it is easy to track your progress. Each leg of (and adventurous) waymarked trail of Lycian Way.
this trip takes roughly 45 minutes. Antalya to the north contains many attractions as well as
The no.28 bus is operational between 06:00 and 23:30. the local airport.
The frequency is roughly one bus every 10–20 minutes. Termessos, which is north-west of Antalya, is an ancient
Havaş buses can also be taken from the airport, which are mountaintop Lycian city. Most of the city is not in good
faster but cost 17TL/person as of 2010. The last stop on condition, however the amphitheatre is relatively intact
the line is at a taxi/dolmuş lot near the Migros shopping and has an excellent view. Be prepared to do some hiking
center. The return trip can be picked up at the same lo- and climbing. The Karain caves which were inhabited by
cation, though it starts on the hour at the PTT near the stone age humans, are located several kilometers away.
539
540 CHAPTER 187. BELDIBI
187.5 Do
187.6 Buy
Like in much of Antalya Province, it is possible to make
most purchases (including bus fare) in Turkish Lira (TL),
US Dollars, and Euros. Conversion rates are not always
up to date, so check the vendors exchange rates before
completing the transaction.
Garanti and other bank ATMs are located along Atatürk
Caddesi. Note that these ATMs are on raised concrete
platforms which are not wheelchair accessible.
Prices in Beldibi are inflated compared to nearby Kemer
and Antalya. For example, as of 2010, a jar of jelly costs
roughly 6TL in Beldibi, while it costs around 1.5TL in
Antalya.
187.7 Eat
There are Turkish restaurants along Atatürk Caddesi
which provide a pleasant change from the pricey resort
restaurants. Memo Restaurant, located across the Club
Med south of the main area in Beldibi, has an English
speaking proprietor. A main entree costs 7-14TL as of
2010.
187.8 Drink
Efes beers are available at the convenience stores located
in Beldibi. Also, restaurants serve Efes and sometimes
Becks beer, as well as local wines.
187.9 Sleep
• Akka Antedon Hotel and Spa, Beldibi 1 Kemer
0798, ☎ +90.242.824.99.99. A 5-star resort and spa
on the Turkish coast.
187.10 Connect
187.11 Go next
Kemer, to the south, is more dense and can be used to
connect to buses traveling further south. Antalya to the
north is a major city with a major bus terminal (otogar)
and international airport.
Chapter 188
Dalaman
Dalaman is a town in Turkey, located on its southwestern 188.2 Get around

coast. Situated slightly inland, Dalaman and its airport
occupies one of the few plains in this part of the country.
188.3 See
• Train Station (a.k.a. Av Köşkü, i.e. Hunting
188.1 Get in Manor) (at the State Farm - Tarım İşletmesi Müdür-
lüğü; just west of town centre, off the road to the air-
port). Perhaps the only 100+ year-old station that is
188.1.1 By air yet to welcome a train in the world, this building dat-
ing back to 1905 exists here as a result of pure acci-
The international Dalaman Airport (IATA: DLM; ) is dent. Abbas Hilmi Pasha, then Khedive (viceroy) of
situated about 6 km south of Dalaman town center, and Egypt, decided to have a hunting manor built here,
is the nearest airport for destinations such as Marmaris, where he had newly purchased. He consulted to a
Dalyan, Fethiye, Kaş and their vicinity. Daily flights con- French company for plans of his manor, and at the
nect with Istanbul, while direct flights (both scheduled same time for plans of a railway station he intended
and charter) to and from major European cities occur to have built in Alexandria. Plans and materials for
several times weekly. At present there are two passen- both buildings were shipped from France at the same
ger terminals — one for international flights and one for time, but there was a mistake—plans and materials
domestic — which handle a total of 2.5 million passen- for each building were loaded into the wrong ship,
gers each year. The terminals are 200 meters apart and and thus train station ended up in Dalaman, while
are connected by walkways. A new, much larger inter- hunting manor made its way to Alexandria. It was
national terminal is built with the old one is employed by decided to let the buildings have built in the opposite
domestic flights now. This will presumably reduce the location they were intended at first, as it was found
often-lengthy time presently spent waiting in queues. out that shipping the materials once again would be
Beware the captive-market food and drink pricing: 4 euro too costly. Even a short stretch of rail track, hun-
for a Coke, 3 euro for a small bottle of water, 12 euro for dreds of kilometres away from the nearest part of
a Big Mac meal (more expensive even than Haifa), 4 euro rail network, was laid out in front of the building.
for a packet of crisps. Today, the elegant building, covered with overgrown
ivies all over, serves as the headquarters of surround-
Dalaman Airport is one of the busiest airports in Western
ing large state farm. Its nicely landscaped large yard,
Mediterranean/Southern Aegean regions of Turkey. Var-
with huge lawns and pretty stately palm trees, is also
ious companies based at the airport will be able to provide
worth a check.
you with an airport transfer to your destination.
The airport is 6km from the city of Dalaman and it is
possible to walk from the bus station to the airport if you 188.4 Do
are fit. The walk is flat and takes about 1 hour.
188.5 Buy
188.1.2 By car
188.6 Eat
The highway D400, the major road of Mediterranean
coast, passes by the town centre about 1 km to east and
connects it with destinations south (Fethiye) and north 188.7 Drink
(Marmaris and onward to Muğla).
541
542 CHAPTER 188. DALAMAN
188.8 Sleep
188.9 Go next
Chapter 189
Dalyan
For the village of the same name in the Troad

Peninsula south of Çanakkale, see Geyikli.
Dalyan is a town in southern Muğla Province of Turkey.

Dalyan is established in an environmentally protected
area. This is one of the few surviving places of paradise,
an area of natural beauty and historical interest.
189.1 Get in
A ferry boat trip can be booked from Marmaris which
will take you to just outside of Dalyan, Will then need to
Lycian rock tombs
transfer onto small ferry boats to continue onwards into
the estuary river into the fresh water.
A regular dolmuş service that runs to neighbouring resorts the south of the channel. With fine crystal sand, shal-
such as Fethiye and Marmaris as well as surrounding vil- low turquoise sea Iztuzu beach is the ideal seaside spot.
lages. Which can be reached by regular dolmus or boat service
Flights are daily from most UK Airports between April from Dalyan. This is also the beach where the endangered
and October to Dalaman Airport. Dalyan is then a 40 Loggerhead Turtle (Caretta caretta) and the green turtle
minute taxi ride away. (Chelonia mydas) have returned to lay their eggs since the
beginning of time. The nesting time being from May till
October. There is also a Turtle Sanctuary at the end of
Iztuzu beach (known as 'Turtle Beach') where you can see
189.2 Get around turtles that are being nursed back to health in large tanks.
This end of the beach is accessible by dolmus (minibus)
189.3 See or car.
The ancient city of Caunos lies here with its ruins dating
back to the 3rd Century. The Dalyan channel through
which water circulates between the Mediterranean and 189.4 Do
Koycegiz Lake winds its way down past the ancient Rock
Tombs to the sea, via a small network of lakes and wa-
Visit the mud baths which has a warm sulphur pool. A
terways. Through the rustling reed beds rising between
good outdoor spa.
3 and 5 metres in height. With its mixture of fresh and
salt water, these wetlands are now home to a vast number
of fish and other water life, as well as the birds of many
species which feed on them, species such as the Sparrow
hawk, Crane, Kingfisher and Jay. 189.5 Buy
The Stork is also native to this area migrating here at the
end of March to nest until the end of August. Dividing the A shop off the river in the town centre will measure your
delta is the Iztuzu sandbar stretching for 5 km east from feet and make you high quality Turkish style slippers.
543
544 CHAPTER 189. DALYAN
189.6 Eat jacuzzi, free Wi-Fi, outdoor gym salon, games area
(billiard tables, table tennis, volleyball), library, bi-
There are many restaurants in which to try local Turkish cycles are what the place offers. Has a flower garden
cuisine, music bars and shops. Lamb meat is a famous complete with hammocks, sun loungers, and moun-
Turkish food and also another one is Kebap. A traditional tain views. On site organic garden provides fruits,
spirit called raki which is a classic Turkish beverage made vegetables, and eggs for the restaurant, which serves
from grapes and aniseed that has been distilled for cen- light snacks and a set dinner and there is also a bar-
turies. becue area and outdoor bar. Double: €60-70/room,
dorms: €12-18 pp; all including breakfast.
189.7 Drink • Gül Pansiyon, Maraş Mah. 10. Sk., ☎ +90 252
284-24-67. Check-out: 11AM. Family-run place
offering small yet clean and tidy rooms, with views
There are a couple of discos on the outskirts of the village
across the river of the rock tombs. High season: 30
so as not to disturb those of you that wish to retire early.
TL pp.
189.8 Sleep 189.9 Go next

• Hotel Portakal Beautiful location at the end of the
village on the Dalaman river. It’s only a 10 minute
walk into the village center.
• Keysan Yunus Hotel, Gulpınar Mah. Dalyan

(Kanal kıyısı), ☎ +90 252 2845120. Check-in:
14.00, check-out: 12.00. This delightful, intimate
boutique hotel is set right on the riverside, with beau-
tiful views to the forest and a backdrop of dramatic
mountains. The hotel has well-kept gardens with a
variety of roses and other flowers, surrounding the
patio area. You can relax on a hammock in the gar-
dens or sunbathe around the pool with a refreshing
drink from the bar. The 23 air-conditioned rooms
are bungalow style, built in a horse-shoe shape. Each
ground floor room has a terrace balcony either look-
ing towards the pool and river, or towards the gar-
dens and mountains. 38,00GBP.
• Villa Gokbel. Very atmospheric and charming.
• Villa Yagmur and Villa Toprak, Gulpinar ma-

hallesi Ataturk Bulvari 37, ☎ +90 252 284
54 39, mobile +90 534 207 17 89, e-mail:
pirciturizm@gmail.com. Beautiful villas.
• Hotel Caria, Maraş Mah. Yalı Sok. 9, ☎ +90

252 284-20-75, fax: +90 252 284-30-46, e-mail:
info@hotelcaria.com. Free wireless in the entire
building.
• Villa Marseli, ☎ 00407879660067. Stunning holi-
day villa that sleeps 8-10, owned by an English cou-
ple.
• Bahaus Resort, İztuzu Yolu 25, ☎ +90 252 284-
50-50, e-mail: bahausdalyan@yahoo.com. Check-
in: 13:30, check-out: 10:30. All rooms are air-
conditioned and have en-suite. A swimming pool,
Chapter 190
Demre
Demre (former official name: Kale) is a town in

Mediterranean Turkey. This is the town where St
Nicholas (“real” Santa Claus) lived. Ancient name of
the town is Myra.
190.1 Get in
A sculpture of St Nicholas near the church
Claus” is based on as he had a reputation for giving

presents secretly. 10 TL.
• Myra. An ancient Lycian city just outside the mod-

ern town.
Lycian rock tombs at ancient city of Myra
Demre lies on the highway D400, which connects Fethiye 190.4 Do

in the west with Antalya in the east along the Lycian
coast. Many buses running town to town on this highway
connect Demre with Kalkan, Kaş, Finike, and Olympos 190.5 Buy
among others.
Lycian Way, a way-marked hiking trail connecting
Fethiye with Antalya, also passes through Myra, just
190.6 Eat
north of Demre.
190.7 Drink
190.2 Get around
190.8 Sleep
190.3 See
190.9 Connect
• St Nicholas Church (Noel Baba Kilisesi). The main
attraction of the town is the church of St Nicholas, Town’s telephone code is (+90) 242, which it shares with
a native of the town during the days of Myra (late the rest of Antalya Province (i.e., eastern Lycia, and
3rd/early 4th century CE), later on whom the “Santa Pamphylia).
545
546 CHAPTER 190. DEMRE
190.10 Go next
Chapter 191
Elmali
Elmalı is a town in Antalya Province in the Lycia region 191.5 Do

of Turkey.
191.1 Understand
Elmalı is one starting point for hiking Mt. Kizlarsivrisi.
This 3000m peak, the highest in western Antalya, is a
Elmalı is a town of around 15,000, high in the western
fairly challenging 2-3 day hike. Most of the route, up
Taurus mountains of Antalya province. As it is far inland
to around 2200m, follows one of various dirt tracks in
from the Antalya-Fethiye coastal road, it has little tourist
good condition. These tracks are regularly used by locals
development. Nonetheless as a prosperous regional hub
in tractors (but not so regularly that you can rely on one
for agriculture and trade, it has plenty of facilities. At an
passing on any given day.)
altitude of around 1000m, it is pleasantly cool in summer
compared to the coastal towns. It is an excellent starting The hike starts from the village of Söğle (“Serlay”), 10
point for exploring the spectacular mountains and tradi- km east of Elmalı. Expect to be harassed by large shep-
tional villages around. herds’ dogs in the first few kilometres; carry a strong stick
and be prepared to throw stones, and keep walking as
The name Elmalı means “of apples”, reflecting the fact
they are defending their territory. The route alternates
that 10% of Turkey’s apple crop is produced in the sur-
between farmland and sparse forest for the first approx
rounding area.
12 km before emerging above the treeline and passing
high mountain pastures.
There are a number of wells along the route. Bucket
191.2 Get in and rope is NOT provided — bring at least 10m of cord.
Check with locals about water availability, as these wells
Dolmus (minibus) services run to Elmalı from Antalya run dry in the summer before the first rains.
city, as well as Kaş, Kalkan, Patara, Kemer, Gombe and Wildlife includes wolves, wild horses and eagles. Wolves
other towns in the region. target goats but are not a threat to humans. Snakes
From Kaş, buses leave at 8am, 10am, 12pm, 2:30pm and and scorpions are a possible danger as with anywhere in
5:30pm. A return service leaves at 9:15am, 12:30pm and Turkey. The presence of hunters means that most wildlife
5:15pm. The trip takes 2.5 hours and costs 12 TL. keeps well away from people.
A large house below the steep final section (visible on
Google Earth) is run by the local mountain climbers as-
191.3 Get around sociation. It is locked and shuttered when not in use,
however the covered porch could provide uncomfortable
emergency shelter.
Elmali is small enough to cover on foot. The bus station is
in the centre of town. To leave the bus station, walk away The final stage passes north of the summit, curves around
from the vehicle entrance, past the filling station, cross the from a comma-shaped valley (clearly visible on Google
roundabout then continue uphill a short distance to reach Earth), follows a footpath over a southbound pass, then
the main street. Taxis are also available at the bus station. breaks off to ascend the eastern ridge. This part is diffi-
cult talus and scree. Immediately below the summit ridge
is a small valley. A stone circle here acts as an unroofed
emergency shelter. Bear in mind that at this altitude,
191.4 See night-time temperatures will dip below freezing even in
summer.
547
548 CHAPTER 191. ELMALI
191.6 Buy
There’s a reasonable selection of shops including super-
markets, ATMs, hunting shops (which may stock some
outdoor/hiking gear), clothes shops etc.
191.7 Eat
There is no shortage of typical inexpensive Turkish
restaurants on the main street. Prices are lower than more
touristy towns.
SEHA is a pleasant cafe/patisserie on the main street, a
little downhill from the hotel area. Upstairs is an airy,
partly open-air spot for people-watching and with a good
view of the mountain behind.
191.8 Drink
191.9 Sleep
Three hotels are available towards the north-western end
of the main street, all on the left side of the street when
coming from the bus station.
Tuba Hotel is 40TL for a single.
Yorukoglu Pansiyon is a comfortable and clean pension
opposite the large mosque. Rooms are heated, have bal-
cony and TV and soft mattresses! The shared bathrooms
have 24hr water, which will be appreciated as even sum-
mer nights are cool. 30 TL for a single. Wireless inter-
net is available. The friendly staff speak a little English.
The entrance is signed but slightly obscure, around the
corner next to a square, and upstairs from the Belediye
office. Tel: 0242 618 8477. Email: yorukoglupan-
siyon@hotmail.com.
Arzu Hotel is 40TL for a single, and is the choice of
foreign tour groups.
191.10 Connect
191.11 Go next
Chapter 192
Faralya
clared to be villages. However, almost nobody but the

officials use this name and the village is always referred
to by its ancient name of Faralya whether it be by the
minibus signs or travel agencies. And as Faralya is (rel-
atively speaking) the biggest one of these hamlets, when
someone speaks about Uzunyurt, you may assume he/she
refers to Faralya.
192.2 Get in
There are minibuses (dolmuş) to the village from
Ölüdeniz, continuing on to Kabak.
A narrow and winding, but tarmac (and sectionally pot-
holed) road connects the village to Ölüdeniz, where it
joins the main highway towards Fethiye near the Blue La-
goon. Though the distance is not that huge, it takes about
30 minutes to drive this road because of the conditions.
During high season (June–August) there are boats three
times a day (11AM/2PM/4PM) from Ölüdeniz to the
Butterfly Valley. They cost 15 TL pp return. Keep the
ticket you'll be given upon getting on the boat in Ölüd-
eniz, it'll be asked for when getting on the boat that will
Butterfly Valley when approaching by boat. The village of Far- take you back at the Butterfly Valley.
alya is at the far top of the canyon, invisible in this angle.
Hiking from Ovacık, 2 km north of Ölüdeniz, is also an
Faralya is a village in Lycia, Turkey. option thanks to the Lycian Way which passes through the
main road of the village. Most hikers do this 16-km sec-
tion in one day, however two days combined with camp-
ing a night up in the mountains is much more comfortable,
192.1 Understand especially in summer.
About 15 km south of Ölüdeniz (and 30 km south of Hitchhiking the road between Ölüdeniz and Faralya is
Fethiye), Faralya was known simply as the “village on the super-easy, at least in summer when there are lots of
cliffs of the Butterfly Valley" until recently, when trav- holiday-makers travelling with their cars.
ellers start to take a deeper look to the village. The village
itself is quite a pleasant sight to see, with its houses and
gardens cascading towards the cliffs of the Valley. 192.3 Get around
Faralya is officially a quarter (Hisar Mahallesi) of the
village of Uzunyurt (literally “long country”), which is The village and the Butterfly Valley are connected by a
made up of separate hamlets (from north to south: Koza- very steep (dropping from the village’s elevation of 350
ğaç and Kirme on the Lycian Way to Ölüdeniz, Far- mt to sea level at canyon bottom) and somewhat danger-
alya/Hisar, Kızılcakaya, and Kabak) as these hamlets ous path, some sections of which require a little bit of
don't have enough population to make them officially de- mountaneering skills. It usually takes around 45 minutes
549
550 CHAPTER 192. FARALYA
to one hour to do the entire path—climbing up of which

is unusually said to be easier than climbing down—but
there are some fit travellers who are reported to do it in
a little more than 20 minutes. The path starts from in
front of the guesthouse George House up in the village
and marked with red dots all along it.
192.4 See
Near yellow/red waymarked coastal trail

Butterfly Valley as seen from the village
• Lycian sarcophagii. Since you are in Lycia, there

are a few to be seen here. The nearest one to the vil-
lage is at the exit of the village towards Kabak, on
the gentle slope on the left side of the road. The
largest one is near Aktaş beach in middle Kızıl-
cakaya hamlet of Faralya, accessible by the yellow
and red waymarked coastal trail. There are two
more hidden in the forest between Kabak and Aktaş
off of the waymarked trail.
192.5 Do
“King’s Tomb” 192.6 Buy

• Butterfly Valley (Kelebekler Vadisi). “Discovered” There are no ATMs in the village and almost no establish-
by hippies in 1990s when their much beloved Blue ments accept credit cards, the one down at the Butterfly
Lagoon was lost to mass tourism, this 250 metres to Valley being an exception. Nearest ATMs are located in
1 km canyon itself is following the steps of the La- Ölüdeniz and further away in Fethiye.
goon nowadays with much more day-trippers than
it was a decade ago. Its name comes from a large
• Faralya Market (on the road to Kabak, about 2-3
swarm of endemic butterflies, the habitat of which
km from village). The only grocery store of the vil-
is near the waterfalls on the canyon wall furthest
lage which offers a very meager selection of vegeta-
from the sea. The view of the canyon from the vil-
bles, snacks, and drinks. No credit cards.
lage above is just as—if not more—beautiful as the
view it has when you are in. Locals used to know
this place by the name Güdürümsü before the val- • There is also a small kiosk offering prepackaged
ley was re-christened with the rather romantic cur- snacks, drinks, and cigarettes down at the Butter-
rent name. An entrance fee of 5 TL may be charged fly Valley. However, be ready for paying twice or
when arriving by boat. even three times more than elsewhere for anything
192.10. STAY SAFE 551
you buy there. For short trips, it is best to bring your double rooms € 245 in season (Jul-Sep), cheaper in
supplies from elsewhere with you. other months.
• Onur Motel Faralya, Faralya Village (hills of

192.7 Eat Butterfly Valley), ☎ +90 252 642 11 62, e-mail:
info@onurmotelfaralya.com. Run by a Turkish
family Onur Motel is a great place to stay, with a
192.8 Drink view of Babadag. The rooms are bungalows made
of natural materials and built in traditional style: ex-
terior is covered with stone work and the interior
192.9 Sleep is covered with natural wood work. They also pro-
vide services for campers. Double room about TL55
Inside the Butterfly Valley, you have two options to per person per night, which includes breakfast and
overnight, the bungalows or camping in a tent, both of home-cooked dinner..
which are rented by the same establishment. While you
don't have to carry your tent, the tents offered by the If you are short on cash, you can also wild camp safely
establishment there fills out quickly in high season, so around the village, even near the cliffs of the Butterfly
you may have to bring your own...although this won't Valley - the focus of the attention around there, given that
make any difference at the fee you'll be paying. Dur- you have camping gear. Just be discreet -away from the
ing the high season (June-Sept), staying in a bungalow sight of houses and the road, there are many bushes there
costs 45 TL/night pp, while overnighting in a tent costs that can hide you, and erect your tent at about the night
35 TL/night pp. The prices gradually fall towards winter, starts to fall.
with the lowest being 22 TL/night pp between Novem-
ber and March. All prices are half-board, i.e. include
breakfast and dinner.
192.10 Stay safe
If you choose to stay up in the village itself, you have a
number of guesthouses and hotels to choose from:
The path between the village and the Valley is a danger-
ous one, with two young backpackers having died when
• Die Wassermühle (on the main road, at the attempting the route in the last decade. Never ever take
entrance of the village from Ölüdeniz), ☎ +90 shortcuts and always stick to the route marked with red
252 642-12-45, fax: +90 252 642-11-79, e-mail: dots - taking a shortcut was the reason of death of one
info@natur-reisen.de. A nicely decorated hotel of the backpackers. Make sure you know what you are
housed in the former watermill of the village located doing at every step - no dreams about taking a seabath
next to a little creek and waterfall. Starts from € 53 on that azure coast! Attempting the route with a heavy
double. backpack is almost suicidal so leave anything you won't
need at which side (up or down) you're staying at. The
• George House (on the slope towards the Butterfly path from beach to the waterfalls inside the Valley also
Valley, follow the sign on the main road), ☎ +90 252 requires some attention.
642-11-02, +90-535-793-21-12 (mobile), e-mail:
faralya17@hotmail.com. Immediately on the cliffs
of the Butterfly Valley, this family-run guesthouse is 192.11 Connect
reported to be one of the most pleasant places to stay
in Faralya. You can pitch a tent, stay in a wooden Faralya’s telephone code is (+90) 252.
bungalow or an open (i.e. curtains instead of win-
dows) wooden tree-house. Turkish tea is available The area is within the coverage of GSM networks.
for free all day. starting from 35 TL pp half-board
(including breakfast & dinner). Check their website
for details. 192.12 Go next
• Mandarin Boutique Hotel, Faralya (behind • Kabak is a village 8 km further to the south, which
the market), ☎ +90 252 642-10-02, e-mail: also has a canyon (called Kabak Koyu) similar to the
mail@villamandarin.com. Hotel with sea and Butterfly Valley (with cliffs opening to the sea at one
mountain views; offering 8 stunning rooms, with 4 side, with waterfalls and so on...), though Kabak’s
poster super kingsize beds, double size jacuzzi, de- canyon is more accessible than the Butterfly Valley:
licious homemade organic food and wines. Outdoor a dirt road connects the village with the canyon. In
pool with separate outdoor jacuzzi. Adult only, both the canyon’s beach and upper village of Kabak,
ideal for couples, and honeymooners. Standard a number of guesthouses can be found.
552 CHAPTER 192. FARALYA
• If you are in for a little bit of adventure, you may re-

turn to Ölüdeniz by hiking the Lycian Way instead
of taking the minibus. When hiking in this direc-
tion (i.e. Faralya to Ölüdeniz, or south to north),
there is only a short (albeit, steep) ascending section
right at the beginning of the trail just out of Far-
alya, then it’s almost always gently descending all
the way to Ölüdeniz through a beautiful pine forest,
along some amazing cliffs, and with unforgettable
views over Blue Lagoon. Remember that the last 8-
km towards Ölüdeniz (the section after the moun-
tain hamlet of Kozağaç) has no water source along
the path, though.
Chapter 193
Fethiye
Fethiye is in Lycia on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. 193.1.2 Climate
Summers are extremely hot with temperatures well above

40°C in July and August, you should drink plenty of wa-
193.1 Understand ter to keep hydrated which is important in a very hot
place such as Fethiye. Winters are cool with temperatures
around 14-20°C. Spring and Autumn are the wettest sea-
sons, yet still very sunny, which is the best time to go for
people who want a warm holiday that is not too hot like
the summer, with temperatures around 20-28°C.
193.2 Get in
193.2.1 By bus
Fethiye has direct connections to many cities in the coun-

try including Marmaris, Bodrum, Denizli/Pamukkale (25
TL, 4 hours), Antalya (40 TL, 3.5 hours, leaving about
every hour), Izmir, and Istanbul (about 90 TL, around 14
Lycian rock tombs on the cliffs above the town hours) among others. The main bus terminal. is about
1km east of Atatürk Cd.
Fethiye is a tourist town with an international atmosphere.
It has an excellent marina and good night life. The
193.2.2 By boat
town also serves as an excellent base for touring the in-
land country-side, and is probably the only city in the
world where you'll find sarcophagus in the streets. These
pre-Roman Lycian relics are especially spectacular when
floodlit at night. The town has a population of around
50,000 but the population increases dramatically during
the high season, from April to end of October, when
off-shore residents spend their summers at their second
homes.
193.1.1 Orientation
The main area of interest is in the southern part of the

city around Atatürk Cd. covering the tourist harbour, Approaching Fethiye from the sea
the bar & club area to the cave tombs. Most budget hotels
are located west from this street near the harbour. Resort Private cruise companies operate non-scheduled services
hotels are mainly found in the north of the city near the to Marmaris and along the peninsula to Antalya. Day
beaches. trips on wooden sailboats, called “gulets” include lunch
553
554 CHAPTER 193. FETHIYE
and stops at different places. Prices and quality of food • The Lycian sarcophagus — There are a number
vary so shop around. of stone sarcophagii carved in typical Lycian style
“Before Lunch Cruises” provides excellent food on board scattered around the town, with one of the most pre-
its three day cruises. Do remember to bring your own served ones lying in the yard of town governor’s of-
towel, soap and shampoo. Bedding doesn't seem “fresh” fice (kaymakamlık) at the main street and other on
but looks clean. Boat is very clean. Most people sleep on the middle of the road heading uphill towards the
deck in the summer. cave tombs and Kayaköy.
193.2.3 By plane 193.5 Do

The nearest airports served by international airlines are at
• Beach activities - swimming, lounging, parasailing,
Antalya or Dalaman. Antalya is about three hours driving
paragliding, canoes etc. The Dead Sea/Blue Lagoon
and Dalaman about one hour from Fethiye. There is a bus
"Ölüdeniz" region has pretty warm water tempera-
service from Dalaman Airport to Fethiye, run by Havaş.
tures during summer season.
• Hiking - Fethiye marks the beginning of the Lycian

193.2.4 By car Way - a 500 km marked hiking trail running
to Antalya. From here you can start hiking to
D400 highway links Fethiye with north (Akyaka, Ölüdeniz, the next stations would then be Faralya
Marmaris, and onward to Muğla and Southern Aegean) and Kabak.
and east (Antalya), along the Lycian coast in the latter
case. However, from Antalya, there is also a mountain • Tuesday Farmers’ Market
road (numbered D350—and E87 for part of its route)
through sparse juniper woods of inner Lycia, that is in • 12 Island Day Cruise. An armada of boats of
quite good condition (if not actually better than coastal all sizes leave their harbor berths each day between
highway) via Korkuteli, which also has a branch going 10:00 and 10:30AM and return at approximately
north to Denizli. D350 significantly shortcuts coastal 6PM. While you can charter the entire boat in ad-
D400, which has a good share of windings on its way vance, most are run on a first come first serve com-
along the heavily indented coastline. munal basis. The typical trip visits 12 islands, in-
cluding 4 stops of about an hour each, where you can
jump of the boat into crystal clear blue and turquoise
193.3 Get around water. Lunch is usually provided, but ask ahead
what to expect. Also choose a boat that seems com-
fortable to you, is not too crowded and ask if they’ll
193.3.1 By dolmuş be playing loud music if that disturbes you. Bring
your swimsuit, sunscreen, a towel and water. Start-
There are multiple dolmuş busses running through the ing from 25/50 TL pp (low/high season).
city. The Karagözler–Otogar bus runs from the main bus
terminal along Atatürk Cd & the port area for 2 TL per • Yacht charter in the Aegean Sea
trip.
• Windward Islands, one of the worlds largest
yacht charter companies, can take care of all
193.3.2 By motercycle charter requirements, from bareboat to luxury
yacht in the Aegean Sea. Operating from 9 of-
A fantastic way to get around Fethiye and the surrounding fices worldwide (USA, Spain, UK, Germany,
region is renting a motor-powered scooter. It costs about Italy, France, Spain, Switzerland, Caribbean,
35 TL, plus gas, for a full day. They are widely available Honk Kong and Dubai).
on the streets. The beaches and the countryside are easily
accessible. Regular bikes are also available, and the town • Paragliding Fethiye is one of the most popular
is very walkable. places around Europe to try this extreme sport. The
activity starts from Babadağ, a mountain around
1900 mt high, and ends on the beach after a nice trip
above Oludeniz. There are many schools and train-
193.4 See ing centers which can provide training even for fresh
beginners, or you are free to enjoy tandem flights
• Cave tombs (located in the cliff on the south side of which include the pilot and a passenger. The fol-
town at the eastern end of Atatürk Cd). 5 TL. lowing link belongs to a very professional school.
193.10. GO NEXT 555
193.6 Buy so check it out. Friendly and helpful staff. Air

conditioning and laundry services are available for
Be informed before you buy a “Turkish” carpet. Do your small additional charges. Smoking permitted out-
homework before leaving home. Beware that the supply side. Laundry for an additional 10 TL, home made
of Turkish carpets is getting low and Chinese copies are diner 10 TL, drinks are same price as shops. Single
being sold. Also, real antiques are not allowed to leave from 45 TL, dorms from 20 TL, breakfast included.
the country. Check their website for details.
• Çim apartments, 30. Sk (just a few steps west from

• Isa.M Turizm, Atcilar Sokak no 6 (Yaniklar Köyü), the Fethiye Marina). Run by the very friendly and
☎ 02526336363. 2. Horseridingstable in Yaniklar welcoming Çim, the spacious & clean apartments
with 14 well trained Horses for advanced and novice are a good alternative to traditional hotels/hostels.
Rider.Trail rides and Riding holidays 40 Euro. In the evening Çim may cook a great Turkish din-
ner for 15 TL pp and travelers often share a bottle
of Rake in the evening. Shared bathrooms, break-
193.7 Eat fast included, some apartments have kitchen and a
washing machine that may be used for free. apart-
Good quick eats including a fish-sandwich (balik ekmek) ment for 2 from 50 TL / night (off-season).
can be found in the area just east of the corniche. The
fish market in the middle of town is surrounded by small
restaurants that will cook your own fish to your liking,
193.9.2 Mid range
very reasonable and delicious.
• Yacht Boutique Hotel. Is located on the south side
of town, close to the yacht pier and international port
• Pasa Kebap has great meat and vegetarian options at of entry. Very short walk to the boat tour docks and
good prices. Upstairs has cushion/floor seating but harbor attractions. Very clean and well furnished
there is also lots of inside and outside table seating. rooms with an outdoor pool/lounge. English speak-
ing staff will help you with setting up local activities.
• Peymane, Eski Cami Sok. No. 7 (In the old town
Rooms start at around $100/night.
on Sokak 41 where it intersects with Sokak 43), ☎
0252.614.0383. Cute little family owned place that
is a little more expensive than some of the other
193.9.3 Splurge
restaurants in the area, but is still cheap and has more
variety and better ingredients. • Hillside Beach Club, Kalemya Koyu PK: 123, ☎
+90 252 614-83-60. Large resort set on a private
They also have probably the best vegetarian options avail- bay amidst pine trees, organizing the only interna-
able in town including a daily special (which is sold at an tional water ski cup in Turkey, with activities such
absolute bargain of a price). Cheap. as spa, tennis, fitness, aerobic, step, stretching, bas-
ketball, beach-volley, archery and water sports in-
cluding wakeboard and scuba-diving.
193.8 Drink
Ayran is a popular yogurt drink some find refreshing. 193.10 Go next
Beer is widely consumed, though neither Beer or Ayran
have a special connection with Fethiye. The wines are • The Blue Lagoon — a famous (perhaps the most
acceptable, but generally not of a very high standard. famous in Turkey) beach area located in Ölüdeniz
to south of Fethiye, with a pretty nice lagoon sepa-
rated from open sea by a sandbar. About 30 minutes
193.9 Sleep away by dolmuş.
• Saklikent Gorge — a stunning geological site lo-

193.9.1 Budget cated inland on the Teke Peninsula (between Fethiye
and Antalya), about 40 km southeast of Fethiye.
• Yildirim Guest House (just a few steps west from This is a great place for a leisurely hike. If you want
the Fethiye Marina). The hostel has six basic rooms, to explore the gorge a bit further upstream, be pre-
as well as three dorms—a female one, a male one, pared for some clambering and getting wet!
and a mixed one with showers, restroom, television,
and internet. This is the only hostel in town with air- • Lycian ruins — located on outer islands, take a boat
con dormitories. Hot water may not always work from Ölüdeniz.
556 CHAPTER 193. FETHIYE
• Kayaköy Village — a hiking destination, these

are the ruins of a Greek settlement abandoned in
1923 when the governments of Turkey and Greece
mandated population swaps. Features some well-
preserved structures, including a church.
• Butterfly Valley and Kabak — two isolated

canyons bordering the seashore to the south of
Fethiye. They both feature waterfalls. Butterfly Val-
ley is hippie haven (though with the growing inter-
ference of the mass tourism) situated in a narrow
canyon with almost no overland connection to the
rest of the world, while remoter Kabak is the per-
fect place to escape the package tourist groups, and
a great place on the Turkish Mediterranean to camp
and have a truly laid-back experience.
• Weekly boat tours around the spectacular Lycian
coast, also known as “Blue Cruise”, all the way
east to Olympos can be arranged through numer-
ous companies from Fethiye during the high season
(April to October).
Chapter 194
Göcek
ferent world from the town centre, in short. However,

the village itself is now being slowly engulfed by summer
villas of urban dwellers from elsewhere.
194.1.1 Climate
Göcek experiences an average of 300 days of sunshine
annually—you will indeed be hard pressed to find a sin-
gle cloud formation in the skies in long summer, when
temperatures constantly range between 35°C and 40°C
during the day and no lower than 27°C during the night.
Average winter—which, in fact, would be called “spring”
Waterfront of Göcek really, in more northern climates—temperature is +17°C.
Water temperature at the bay is more or less around 25°C
Göcek is a town in Lycia, Turkey. The gulf on the tip
on the average during summer.
of which Göcek is located in known as one of the most
beautiful yachting areas in the country, or even in whole
Mediterranean basin.
194.2 Get in
194.1 Understand 194.2.1 By air
Most of what you see today as “Göcek” is actually a Nearest airport is located in Dalaman, which receives do-
town purpose built on a grid plan in late 1980s/early mestic as well as international flights. From Dalaman
1990s to boost and serve then newly-emerging tourism Airport, you can take service shuttles run by Havaş to
in the area, on what was then the coastal plains of the vil- Fethiye and get off at the junction of Göcek town centre
lage of Göcek. Up to that date, much of the plains was - from there, it’s about 10 minutes of walk to the town
covered with marshes and some farmland, along with a centre.
small port used for exporting logs harvested from sur-
rounding forests for paper-milling and chromium ore,
found abundantly and extracted since late 19th century 194.2.2 By bus
in the surrounding mountains and the reason of many
Buses heading for Fethiye from major cities of the coun-
men from surrounding towns—who are now commemo-
try pass through Göcek.
rated by a bronze mine worker statue at the town plaza—
immigrating to look for a job at a time when, in the
absence of tourism, there were little alternative ways of
194.2.3 By car
earning livelihood in this hilly region unfit for large agri-
cultural operations. D400 connects Göcek north and south. When coming
The “real” village of Göcek, lying about 2-3 km uphill from north (Dalaman, Gökova, Muğla), you may take the
from waterfront and north of main highway, is still extant tunnel to avoid the very winding and narrow road over
and retains its village atmosphere to some degree, with the mountain, which is 5 km longer than the route via
freely roaming sheepdogs and roosters here and there, and tunnel. However, this option has a price: Tunnel costs 3
omnipresent mulberry trees casting their deep shadows TL/car/one-way and accompanying pessengers won't be
much needed in this sunny and hot climate—quite a dif- able to enjoy the scenery of the mountain road.
557
558 CHAPTER 194. GÖCEK
There is a car-park at the entrance of the town. hordes of families taking a daily cruise around the
Gulf. They depart from the promenade on the coast.
194.2.4 By boat • Swimming. While heavy yachting together with lit-

tle environmental regulations make it unpleasant to
Göcek has three (or more?) yacht marinas, all located in swim directly in the town centre, outer coves still
town centre. (partially) retain their former beauty—well, the land
is as beautiful as it could be, but it is not very uncom-
mon that the yachts directly dump their bilge water,
194.3 Get around especially in the evenings, and even at outer coves.
One of the easily accessible coves is İnlice, run by
Göcek is a very walkable place, with the distance from town council, east of the town of Göcek, with dol-
one end to another not exceeding half an hour’s walk. muş services from town centre. Travellers preferring
to head their beach on their own stream may check
out Ayten, about 6 km west of the town (also at-
tainable by car). Start your walk from in front of the
194.4 See factory with a big “Mopak” sign, then walk past the
marshland (don't worry, you'll be walking on a wide
While the town of Göcek itself has very little to see, its tarmac road through it) and then the Club Marina.
major draw is the coves and isles—which are collectively If Ayten is far too crowded for you, keep walking to
called Oniki Adalar, i.e. “Twelve Islands”—of the Gulf find a secluded little cove. You'll come across one
of Göcek, surrounded by mountains and pine forests ris- soon! Behind Ayten beach is a black hose with very
ing right from the coastline. cold water coming from the top of the mountain. It’s
Having said that, though, the beautifully-landscaped and possible to take a free -and quick- shower there.
palm lined waterfront promenade can be a sight in it-
self.
The pleasant Central Mosque (Merkez Camii), just be-
194.6 Buy
hind the waterfront at the side of town plaza, with its
non-traditional red-tile roof and colourful tiles with illus- Most of the commerce in town takes place in and around
trations relating to Göcek’s history and seafaring on its Okaliptüs İş Merkezi in the centre of the town. Banks
outside fountain, might be worth a check. (and their ATMs) are located there, as well as a number
of stores offering stuff related to yachting.
Some national and international grocery store chains,
194.5 Do such as Carrefour, Migros, Tansaş, and BİM, have stores
in the town. Most have free deliveries to the marinas,
however, the delivery is usually made by local youngsters
with no affiliation to the stores and in the expectation of
a tip, so even the smallest tip will be welcome by the de-
livery boys who receive no salary from the stores.
194.7 Eat
194.8 Drink
• Dice Cafe (on the coast, past the second wooden
bridge over the creek from the town centre). An open-
air cafe/bar on the coast. One of the cheapest places
for a drink in Göcek. 5 TL for a bottle of 'Efes’ beer.
Somewhere at the Bay of Göcek on a hazy day
• Yachting. This is, naturally, the best way to explore 194.9 Sleep
the coves of Göcek. If you don't own one, you can
rent a yacht in town monthly or weekly. If doing Many guesthouses, mostly occupying two-storey build-
that leaves a hole on your wallet, then you can join ings with little gardens, can be found around the town and
194.12. GO NEXT 559
in İnlice, a nearby beachfront village to southeast, off the

highway to Fethiye.
194.10 Stay safe

Göcek is a very safe place, with local jandarma (Turkish
military police responsible for rural safety) officers doing
fairly regular patrols along the waterfront, town plaza, and
main shopping street. They also have a station in town
centre, a block inland from waterfront just on the bank of
a creek, where you can file a report should you encounter
any problems.
194.11 Connect
The telephone code of Göcek is (+90) 252.
194.11.1 Internet
• Elit Internet, Çarşı Yolu Caddesi 41 (upstairs) (on
the main shopping street). Internet cafe. 2 TL/hour.
1 TL during the first 30 minutes (no matter how long
you stay online) and then 0.50 TL for each 15 min.
194.12 Go next
Chapter 195
Kabak
Kabak is a small village in Lycia, Turkey. It is the perfect pushed out of the way by developers who just want to
place to escape the package tourist groups, and a great make a buck quickly (Lonely Planet authors got free ac-
place on the Turkish Mediterranean to have a truly laid- commodation/food here in exchange for a certain place
back experience. being highlighted) and have no interest in the long-term
outcome of Kabak besides profit. Someone who remem-
bered it from 2005 would find it different now. For exam-
195.1 Understand ple, to build a resort on the property closest to the beach,
they cut down the forest next to the beach. They also
want to pave the road to the beach so package tourists
can come. If you want to stay at a place that is helping
Kabak stay beautiful, choose wisely.
195.2 Get in
There are minibuses (dolmuş) from Fethiye passing

Kabak beach, as seen from Kabak village Ovacik, Ölüdeniz and Faralya on the way. The trip from
Fethiye takes a little more than an hour. Busses are rela-
As it doesn't have sufficient population to be designated tively frequent, they leave from Fethiye every hour from
as a “village”, Kabak is officially a neighbourhood of 7:00 to 18:00 (except 8:00 & 12:00). Busses from Kabak
Uzunyurt, and as such, is usually omitted from maps, even return hourly from 8:30 to 19:30 (except 9:30 & 13:30)
quite detailed ones. on the same route. 4 TL for a trip from Ölüdeniz, 6.5
Kabak consists of two physically separate sections: the TL from Fethiye further away. Note they might be less
frequent when the season ends (end of October)
settlement proper, a small agglomeration of two-story
buildings along the road, clinging on a mountainside A heavily winding road connects Kabak with Ölüdeniz,
way above the coastline (though with a view of beauti- passing through Faralya on the way. Road condition is
ful Mediterranean), and the cluster of guesthouses below, good until the upper village of Kabak. Descending into
between the coast and the canyon known as Kabak Koyu, the valley, it’s a rough dirt road. Total distance from Ölü-
which, with its pine groves, waterfalls, and coastline, is deniz is around 25 km.
quite similar to much more famous Butterfly Valley of Lycian Way, a waymarked hiking trail passes through
Faralya; however physical access to Kabak Koyu is a little the village, providing a tiresome but peaceful connection
easier than Butterfly Valley, although the relative remote- with Ovacık, a suburb of Ölüdeniz. It takes a de-tour
ness of Kabak offsets that. through the mountains, with many impressive vistas and
The state of development in Kabak is in major flux. There through hamlets no one—except hikers—has ever been,
are still backpacker/family oriented places that are truly and gradually loses height for Faralya, once more to go up
interested in keeping Kabak beautiful and are invested to mountains and descending this time to Kabak. Most
for the long-term (Full Moon, Reflections, Sultan, Kabak hikers break this 22-km section into two days, with an
Valley Camping, and a few more), but they are being overnight stay in one of Faralya’s guesthouses.
560
195.5. BUY 561
195.3 Get around hits Kabak beach.
You can follow the Lycian Way, indicated by red and

white painted stones that lead all the way down to the 195.5 Buy
beach, about 20 minutes downhill on a dirt path, and
beyond. It will pass by many places to stay, most with There are small grocery stores both in the upper village
restaurants if you want to eat. Another branch of the Ly- and near the beach. Since they mainly cater to tourists
cian Way passes around the upper part of the valley. don't expect to find much there except for cookies, soda
There is a dirt road (branching from the main road from & water: all at a slightly inflated price compared to the
Faralya about 2 km away from the village) leading into city. As you might rightly be expecting, they don't accept
the canyon and the coast, however if you have any small- credit cards.
est bit of love for your car, avoid driving through that road There is no ATM in the village either, so bring enough
(think of a rocky downslope where the soft topsoil has all cash. The nearest ATMs are in Ölüdeniz (and a little fur-
but bulldozed). Instead, you may park your car in the ther away in Fethiye).
upper village and take a dolmuş down there—they don't
have fixed hours (i.e., ready to go as soon as you pay;
but you may have to wait for one returning from the coast
first) and, regardless of the number of passengers, do have
195.6 Eat and Drink
the fixed price of 35 TL, which, if lucky, you may share
with fellow travellers waiting for one when you get there. You'll have your meals in your guesthouse. In
Ask at the grocery store at the upper village for these dol- general, you can stop at just about any guest-
muşes. house/campground/bungalow area, have a look at
their food menu, and decide if you want to eat there.
Since many only provide breakfast and dinner, all of
them offer food to buy for lunch. If you are not staying
195.4 See and Do overnight, you can easily negotiate a price for dinner.
You can see the canyon itself and a number waterfalls • Lazy Fish Cafe (Not far up the valley from the
along the canyon’s sides (you have to hike a bit out of the beach. Facing away from the water up the valley,
village), swim in the Mediterranean, and perhaps take a go up towards the left a minute or two and look for
cheesy yoga course offered by many of the guesthouses a hanging banner with Chinese characters.). Conve-
on the coast. If you are fit and keen on some tough phys- niently located near the beach, all reports have this
ical exercise, maybe hike to the next settlement on either food as being very delicious. Meal in the 15-25 TL
direction along Lycian Way. Other than that, you will not range.
have much else to see or do in Kabak. But doing noth-
ing is exactly what Kabak has to offer (and weren't you • Mama’s House (in the upper village). If you are
in Kabak for that in the first place?). on a day trip to Kabak, this is the most likely place
where you will have your quick lunch, consisting
of freshly baked Turkish cheese pancake (gözleme),
195.4.1 Waterfalls perhaps alongside a cup of tea. Run by a local old
lady, the place has a patio at the backside with an
To hike to some great waterfalls, first follow the red and outstanding view of the cove below. Also has a pen-
white stones all the way to the beach. From the left side sion/guesthouse
of the beach (looking toward the sea), continue following
• Olive Garden (in the upper village). It is little
the red and white stones 20-25 minutes. You will see a big
restaurant with great well server meals. You can
sign (put up by the Full Moon owner, Mustafa) that shows
seat on chairs or lay on very comfortable mattresses.
the Lycian Way to the right and waterfalls to the left. You
Views from there are outstanding, prices reasonable,
will be able to follow the pipeline and old river until the
waiters quiet but friendly and very helpful.
waterfall. Beware: This is not a real hiking path; it’s quite
rough and requires some climbing in a few places that may
be dangerous. Be sure to wear a pair of good shoes and
leave your hands empty for the climbing. There are six or 195.7 Sleep
seven pools successively higher. From the waterfall, you
can either return the way you came, or you can follow the Both the upper village and the coastal part have a num-
red painted stones until that path rejoins the Lycian Way ber of guesthouses, some of which consist of wooden
with red and white stones. When it rejoins, going left will bungalows. Most also offer campgrounds in their yards,
return you to Kabak around the back side of the valley, although you can wild camp for free on the beach or in
and going right will return you to where the Lycian Way the isolated parts of the canyon. Overall, Full Moon is
562 CHAPTER 195. KABAK
the closest to the dolmus stop, but far from the beach. tourists. Free wifi. Nice lounge areas and bar, close
The rest are closer to the beach, but it’s a walk back up to the beach. Web site has gallery if you want to
to the dolmus stand. Something to consider if you have look. 40 TL pp with own tent, with their tent w/ bed
a heavy pack and you either want to chill in your camp- and blanket: 55 pp. Bungalows range from 55-125
ing/bungalow area or hang out more on the beach. Fol- TL pp, see site for more pricing details. All include
low the red and white painted rocks for the trail all the breakfast and dinner..
way to the beach, through which you will pass several lo-
• Kabile Camping (Follow the red and white rocks
cations with bungalows and camping spaces. There are
until the beach, then follow the road up in the same
plenty more to find, so contribute if you stay at any of
direction as Reflections. On the right.), ☎ +90 252
them!
642 11 88, e-mail: kabilekabile@gmail.com. The
The more local, backpacker, and family oriented places sort of place with dread-locked employees. Live
are Full Moon, Reflections, Sultan, and Kabak Valley music every night at 9. Solid place to pass a few
Camp. See the 'Understand' section more info about the nights. Bed and blanket provided in every tent. You
tourism development in the Kabak Valley. might have to ask around to find this place. Only
camping: 30 TL pp incl breakfast and dinner..
• Full Moon Camp (5 minutes down the Lycian Way • Kabak Valley Camp (Follow the red and white
from the bus stand), ☎ +90 252 642-10-81, e-mail: rocks down to the beach and come back up the road a
fullmooncampinfo@yahoo.com.tr. Rustic bunga- short walk. You should see signs.), ☎ +90 252 642-
lows with great views, delicious home-grown food, 10-27, e-mail: info@kabakvalleycamp.com. Nice
and a swimming pool if you don't feel like going to location, close to beach. Free wireless and plenty of
the beach. Incredible common patio covered with lounge space. Dinner and breakfast included. Along
grape vines overlooking the entire valley with plenty with Full Moon, the owners here are really work-
of cushions. Free Wifi. You can camp in your own ing to keep Kabak quiet and beautiful. Bungalow en
tent on the roof. 20-25 minute walk downhill to suite: 70 TL pp, Bungalow shared bathrooms: 50
Kabak beach. The owner, Mustafa, is from Kabak TL pp, Own tent: 25 TL pp..
and truly interested in keeping Kabak beautiful, and
fights against big tourism development (he’s the one • Reflections (Follow the red and white painted rocks
who put the sun shades on the beach and painted the all the way to the beach, then follow the road up a
rocks/made the sign to get to the waterfall). Great few hundred meters, you will see signs.), ☎ +90-539-
for backpackers and families. Kids 0-6 stay for free, 872-56-50, e-mail: contact@reflectionscamp.com.
ages 7-12 stay for 10 TL per night. 35/50 TL pp Part-American owned and listed in the guidebooks.
low/high season, including breakfast and dinner. 35 Along with Full Moon, the owners here are really
TL/pp (including food) camping in own tent in high working to keep Kabak quiet and beautiful. Great
season.. location close to the beach. Free wifi. Plenty of
chillout zones and great food. Breakfast and dinner
• Sea Valley Bungalows (Follow the red and white included. Children 0-6: free - 7-12 %50: discount -
painted rocks all the way until the beach. If 13 and over: normal price. The website has lots of
you contact ahead of time, they can arrange info. 35 TL pp in own tent, 50 TL pp in bungalow.
a pick-up.), ☎ +90 252 642-12-36, e-mail:
• Sultan Camp (Sultan Camp is a 20min walk down
info@seavalleycamping.com. The most up-market
the red and white marked path. Shuttles are also
place in Kabak with the best location in terms of
available at a cost from the bus stop.), ☎ +90 252
proximity to beach. Nice pool, internet, manicured
642-12-38, e-mail: sultancamping@gmail.com.
lawn, a wide selection of bungalows. Bar on site.
Check-in: 24 hr. Only a 5 minute walk to the beach,
Depending on how busy it looks, you can proba-
Sultan Camp has a variety of accommodation op-
bly negotiate the prices. All bungalows have own
tions including bungalows with or without toilet and
shower and toilet, and are of high quality. If you
shower, and tent areas (tents available). Delicious
want to wash off after swimming, you could proba-
breakfast and dinner is included with each accom-
bly use their showers by the pool and no one would
modation option. Bar, pool, internet, hammocks.
say anything. However, that well manicured lawn
Cash or Credit card accepted for balance upon ar-
meant cutting down the beautiful pine forest that
rival. 2 bed tent: 30 TL pp, single and double bunga-
used to be on the beach. Small bungalow: 80 TL/pp,
lows range from 50-120 TL pp, shared and en suite..
Large bungalow: 100 TL/pp, with own tent: 20 pp,
with their tent: 25 TL/pp, only breakfast included.
• Gemile Camping (Follow the red and white 195.8 Connect

painted trail down from the dolmus stop, 15
min down), ☎ +90 252 642-10-16, e-mail: The area code for landline phones in the village is (+90)
campgemile@gmail.com. Popular with Turkish 252.
195.9. GO NEXT 563
Kabak is within the coverage area of Turkey's mobile

phone operators.
You're out of luck if you are looking for internet cafes.
The only internet available will be at the place you are
staying or maybe a cafe you get a drink or food at.
195.9 Go next
As far as anything running on wheels is concerned, Kabak
is literally the dead end street, as the road coming from
Ölüdeniz ends here, giving way to complete wilderness
of Yediburunlar (literally “seven headlands”) area, the re-
motest section of Lycian coast.
However, for hikers, the fun has just started yet—the re-
mote mountain hamlets of this rugged (and seemingly
inaccessible) area is connected to each other by Lycian
Way, which turns and twists on the sides of the mountains,
following the coastline from a distance. Within about
three days’ time, after some (usually quite sharp) descents
and ascents, and enjoying vistas which were practically
the same thousands of years ago, you will be back to “civ-
ilization” on the Patara beach, just south of the modern
town of Kınık, or Xanthos, as it was known to ancient
Lycians, on the other side of Yediburunlar.
Chapter 196
Kalkan
Kalkan is a town in Mediterranean Turkey. It is an en- 196.1.2 By bus

chanting, historic town and one of the most beautiful lo-
cations along Turkey’s gorgeous Lycian Coast. There is Daily bus service from Istanbul Otogar leaving at 9pm
an absence of mass tourism, and it remains a charming arriving in Kalkan the next day at 11am.
and unspoiled haven with brilliant blue crystal-clear sea, Other buses from Izmir, Afyon, Fethiye, Antalya
historic architecture, ancient history and warm traditional
Turkish hospitality. Buses used to arrive and leave from the centre of the vil-
lage but now leave from the new bus station at the top
of the hill above the Thursday market by the Petrol Ofisi
petrol station. It’s a long walk from most places in Kalkan.
196.1 Get in
196.1.3 By bicycle
From Fethiye
Lots of traffic to start, thins out after a while. Turn

right at the Zorlar roundabout, wide, long inclines but
nice coming down on the other side. After Yesilkoy very
steep, tight corners and narrow, watch out for traffic in
both directions, until junction with Islamlar road, then
downhill, steep, very narrow, watch out for traffic in both
directions. Watch out for the junction with the Bezirgan
road. Will improve when the new road is finished. Some
water sources (signposted) and service stations.
Central mosque of Kalkan, a former Greek church
From Kaş
Fantastic views of the sea. Best Mediterranean ride in

Turkey until you get to Silifke. Narrow in places. Tight
196.1.1 By air corners. Watch out for overtaking traffic. Narrow bridge
at Kaputas.
Dalaman airport is the closest at about 1hr 30mins by taxi
from Kalkan.
From Korkuteli
In season charter flights operate to Dalaman from most
UK airports. Scheduled flights operate all year round fly- Difficult conditions before April and after September.
ing direct to Dalaman or with a change of plane in Istan- Several passes (cols) to go through.
bul. Try Thomas Cook for the cheapest direct flights
Taxi transfers from Dalaman, some flight providers offer
Fethiye/Mugla direction
a transfer to Fethiye where there;s a bus service to Kalkan
It is a fairly easy 90 minute drive from Dalaman to Follow signposts to Saklikent. Then back road from
Kalkan, passing though a toll tunnel near Dalaman and Saklikent to Uzumlu. Carry on straight after Saklikent
then a straighforward drive, bypassing Fethiye before ar- gorge. Now fully tarred. Not much traffic. Level un-
riving in a dramatic sweep into Kalkan by a new road. til Uzumlu. No water or service stations. At Uzumlu
564
196.4. DO 565
take Islamlar-Akbel road direction right Akbel, sudden 196.4 Do

ups and downs, mainly up, at earthquake houses (deprem
evleri), big junction, turn left onto Kalkan road.
Kalkan is renowned for its scuba diving and water
From Elmali to junction with Kas - Antalya road sports.
Nice road, not much traffic. Long inclines, cold in au- Kalkan is a place that appeals to the older visitor. There
tumn, spring. Expect snow or rain before April and after are no large discos so I don't think it is really a place
September. Fantastic mountain views. for teenagers. However, if they got together with oth-
From Elmali via Sutlegen and Bezirgan. ers they might enjoy themselves and the numerous music
bars. During the summer period (july onwards) there is
Not much traffic. Fantastic views. Expect snow or rain a larger number of young people around. A few bars suit
before April and after September. Road inaccessible to this age group and get busy in the early hours
cars sometimes. Long inclines but great downhill ride
into Kalkan after the top of Kaputas gorge.
• Take a boat trip. Some boats will take you to Patara
or Kaputas. Some will just hug the bay. Lunch pro-
vided. Quality varies.
196.2 Get around
• Trips to Saklıkent Gorge or horseback riding along
In the village on foot or by taxi. Alternatively rent a Patara beach can be arranged in Kalkan.
moped - probably the most common form of transport.
Not necessarily safe but definitely fun! In the centre
of Kalkan you can find vendors on the street who rent • Walk the Lycian Way.
mopeds for around £30 a day give or take. Petrol is not
cheap and Turkey regularly has the highest petrol prices
in the world.
196.5 Buy
196.3 See
• Make sure to take a trip on a local dolmus to world

renowned Patara Beach.
• A trip to Demre is also recommended to see the ru-

ins.
• Enjoy a one hour bus trip to Fethiye on market day.
• Tlos ruins
• Xanthos & Letoon ruins in Kınık
• ruins
• Saklikent gorge
• Meis/Kastellorizo - Greece’s easternmost island.

Take the boat from Kaş
• Kekova
• Bezirgan village
Shops and restaurants in downtown Kalkan
• Green lake at Gombe
Lots of small shops in the village. Best buy would be a
• Visit the stunning beach at Kaputaş - 10 minutes Turkish rug. There are many shops selling fake goods,
away on the dolmus especially T shirts.
566 CHAPTER 196. KALKAN
196.6 Eat
The thing you will remember most about Kalkan is the
restaurants. There are over 200 in this small fishing vil-
lage. They vary from the very simple providing whole-
some Turkish food to the sophisicated located in beau-
tifully restored village homes. Many of them have roof
terraces and it is wonderful to eat under the stars and gaze
at the lights of the town.
Have lunch at a trout farm in Islamlar, a village up on the
hills north of Kalkan. Much cooler than Kalkan in the
summer.
196.7 Drink
• Efes - local beer
• Ayran - local salty drink made of yoghurt
196.8 Sleep
• Pansiyon (guesthouse) accommodation in the vil-
lage.
• Lots of villas to rent but many outside the village or

a long walk from the restaurants and harbour
• Some Villas are also within 10-15 minutes walk to

the centre and beach.
196.9 Go next
• Bus to Istanbul, Izmir, Afyon.
• Bus to Antalya for Ankara, Black Sea coast, Hatay.

• Bus to Fethiye for Gaziantep, Sirnak, eastern
Turkey, Turkish Airlines shuttle to Dalaman.
• Taxi transfer to Dalaman or Antalya airports.
• On foot via the Lycian Way.

• Bicycle see getting in.
Chapter 197
Kayaköy
Kayaköy is a "ghost town" near Fethiye in Lycia, Turkey. 197.2 Get in

Fethiye is the major hub of the region, and as such, is the
197.1 Understand point of entry for most, if not all, travellers to Kayaköy.
See “Get in” section of Fethiye article for options when
approaching from out of region.
• There are fairly frequent minibuses (dolmuş) from

Fethiye, which depart from the stops at the side of
a mosque on the main street of downtown Fethiye.
There are also dolmuşes from Ölüdeniz, at least in
season.
• A tarmac, albeit winding and somewhat narrow

road links Kayaköy with Fethiye. Follow the brown
“Kayaköy” signs from downtown. Another road
which is in a better condition connects the town with
Hisarönü, which is located on the highway between
Fethiye and Ölüdeniz. Renting a motor-powered
scooter and driving from Fethiye is a cheap and fun
Abandoned houses of Kayaköy
option on a sunny day. It is a short and beautiful
drive over into the valley.
Kayaköy, or Levissi as it was known to its former in-
habitants, was a Greek town until 1923, when, after the • Hiking from Fethiye is also an option, thanks to a 8-
multinational Ottoman Empire drew to close, the govern- km long cobbled, medieval path through the forest.
ments of Greece and Turkey concluded on a population It takes around three hours to walk this not-so-hard
exchange to become nation states ethnically homogenous track and more details can be seen at the “Fethiye-
as much as possible on the basis of the Treaty of Lau- Kayaköy” section of Lycian Way article.
sanne. According to that treaty, all Greek Orthodox in-
habitants of Turkey were to be exiled to Greece, while all
Muslim inhabitants of Greece were to be exiled to Turkey
in return. When the Greek inhabitants of Kayaköy left for
197.3 Get around
Greece, Muslims from Greek Macedonia were settled in
their place. However, the Macedonians who were used You'll mostly walk around the ghost town.
to large and fertile fields in their former land found this
hilly and rocky area with little arable land unfit to live, and
abandoned the place in favour of other regions. Decades 197.4 See
of neglect in addition to the big earthquake of 1957 that
shook the region hard has left Kayaköy what it is today. The ghost town of Kayaköy itself, including hundreds
In its heyday, Kayaköy was populated enough to support a of abandoned houses with no roofs or windows, and the
local newspaper and several schools and stores, but today walls of some of which are partially ruined, is the main
there is only a handful of natives living there, mostly in sight. Those not to be missed include the old fountain
the neighbourhoods of Keçiler and Kınalı, about 2 km which dates back to 1888 by the tarmac road, two aban-
north and 2 km west of the “ghost town” of Kayaköy re- doned churches (aptly dubbed Yukarı Kilise and Aşağı
spectively. Kilise, i.e. “Upper” and “Lower Church”, respectively,
567
568 CHAPTER 197. KAYAKÖY
some ruins of a Byzantine chapel which dates back to 5th

century.
Perhaps a more rewarding sight in the same direction is
the monastery at Afkule (also spelled Af Kule), clinging
at the high cliffs over the sea, and which affords really
impressive views over the Gulf of Fethiye, as far away
as Rhodes if the air is clear. Other than its roof, this
Greek Orthodox monastery is as sound as it was when
abandoned in 1920s. To get there, you will need a short
(about 3 km) but pretty demanding hike up and down
along a trail, part of it, though, fortunately, through a pine
The church forest. In total it takes around an hour on foot to get there
from the ghost town. West of Kayaköy, leave the gravel
road to Gemile at where the trail (a dirt track) to Afkule
branches off, which is properly marked by yellow signs.
At about midway through the trail to Afkule (about 1 km
away from where you started), you'll notice a branching
track to right—this is the wrong path, keep to the trail to
left instead. The trail ends in an open space—carpark for
those taking their vehicles along the track. From here,
take the wide track to right, which is waymarked with the
yellow&red marks usual in the area, and which will slowly
ascent to the top of the cliff, which is about 1 km away
from the carpark. Then the trail will descend down to the
monastery, but be extremely careful in this section as it is
very easy to slip down since the path is covered with loose
gravel. Perhaps not for the fainthearted, you can further
Inside the church explore the lower stories of the complex (the church and
residences of the monks) once you are in the monastery,
though that will require a very steep climb down with the
because of their relative elevation difference to each full view of high cliffs down to the coast (a whopping 400
other), and the little chapel on the top of the hill (about mt just below your feet), so those with afraid of heights—
20 min uphill walk from the lower church; follow the red do beware.
dots from the church), which gives a stunning view of the
valley and the sea below, which are located on the other
side of the hill that Kayaköy leans against, and therefore
is not visible from the town itself.
197.5 Do
The lower church and the streets (or stairs to be more • Horseback riding is a popular activity in Kayaköy.
precisely) in its vicinity has been declared a “museum”
by the Turkish Ministry of Culture with a ticket office • Kayaköy Art Camp (Kayaköy Sanat Kampı),
in the entrance which require anyone passing through— Kayaköy, ☎ +90-533-763-62-73 (mobile), e-mail:
whether they have the intention to check out the church kayakoy@sanatkampi.com. Offers two-week work-
or not—to buy a ticket which costs 8 TL pp. You may shops on photography, pottery, painting, traditional
pass on the early and late hours of the day on which the carpet weaving, woodwork and the like in the ghost
office is unmanned without buying a ticket, though. town setting; with the afternoons set aside for trips
to nearby sites. Book in advance if you would like
to stay in the guesthouse during the camp, otherwise
197.4.1 Afkule and Gemile you'll have to bring in your tent. €320/two weeks (if
you bring your own tent), €390/two weeks (guest-
8 km southwest of Kayaköy, the beach at Gemile is ac- house rooms shared by two–three persons).
cessible by a gravel road good enough for most conven-
tional cars from the neighbourhood of Kınalı, about 2
km west of the ghost town, although there is no pub- 197.5.1 Hiking to Cold Water Bay
lic transport heading there. There is also a hiking path
which somewhat shortcuts the gravel road. The trail be- Not just for hiking but also for a dip in the sea, you can
gins out of Kınalı, at where the road starts windings and take the marked trail to Cold Water Bay (Soğuksu Koyu),
descents towards the coast. Just off shore of Gemile is just south of ghost town, but not immediately visible be-
the St Nicholas Island (Gemiler Adası in Turkish) with cause of the hills Kayaköy leans against. While it is not
197.8. DRINK 569
much more than a cove with a quite short of stretch of waiting for the barbecue should try tandır, slowly
pebble beach really, it is the nearest access to the sea from cooked lamb in an earthen oven. Vegetarians can
Kayaköy. The restaurant with wild boar stew on the menu try salads, various mezes, including cheese stuffed
just behind the beach may also worth the trip there. mushrooms, all of which should accompany tables
The waymarks on this route are red dots. There are no of carnivores, too, anyway. Restaurant has a good
signs but the dots are placed once every few metres, so selection of wines and raki. Sunsets are reported
it’s upsettingly impossible to get lost. to be great, though remember to pack a mosquito
repellent with you. Bookings may be necessary in
The route starts from in front of the lower church and as- weekends, when the place is highly popular among
cents towards the hilltop. To avoid the fee of 8 TL to local families. Has a carpark. 30-50 TL pp.
access the area around the church, either start very early
before the office opens, or take a long detour around the
part of the town that was declared museum (you can start 197.8 Drink
by taking the path on the side of the old fountain). Take
the small chapel on the very top hill as a bearing — you
should be walking towards (but not straight to) it. Once You'll find a bar or two situated in the yards of the aban-
you are clear off the house ruins, near the hilltop, there are doned houses close to the church.
two trails: One leading to the chapel, other descending to-
wards the (now visible) sea. Both trails are signed with the
same red dots so be careful. At this point, the trail begins 197.9 Sleep
descending on volcanic-looking somewhat slippery sur-
face between again volcanic-looking huge brown rocks. There is a number of guesthouses (pansiyon) both in and
After passing a short level ground with some shrubs here out of the ghost town. There are also some bungalows
and there, it again starts descending towards the sea, which start from 20 TL a night.
which the trail soon meets.
Kayaköy can also be easily visited as a day trip while stay-
ing in nearby towns of Fethiye or Hisarönü, both of which
have a lot more options for accommodation.
197.6 Buy
• There is only one grocery store (market) in 197.10 Connect
Kayaköy, on the side of the road past the church,
and they don't accept credit cards. Don't expect to
The town is within the GSM coverage, no matter if it is
find an ATM in this place, either.
a ghost town or not.
197.7 Eat 197.11 Go next

There are restaurants in and around the town, mainly be- Two marked hiking trails head out from Kayaköy (apart
tween Keçiler and Kayaköy. from the one that descends to Cold Water Bay) — one of
them descends from the upper church towards the shore
• Cinbal Restaurant, Kayaköy, ☎ +90 252 and Ölüdeniz, while the other one leads to Ovacık inland,
618-00-66, fax: +90 252 618-04-45, e-mail: north of Ölüdeniz, the official trailhead of Lycian Way.
info@cinbal.com. An open air restaurant spe-
cialized in kebabs, in a large leafy garden—all of
which is shaded by vines, which makes it at least
a couple degrees cooler than surroundings—with
wooden gazebos at sides (which are best to be
booked in advance). A kendin pişir kendin ye
(“cook it yourself!")-type restaurant which serves
fresh and good quality food, you are provided with
a barbecue with some lit charcoals and grill your
pirzola (lamb chops), which you order by weight
(125-150 gr/person is sufficient for most, if you
have no idea how much to order—or just let the
friendly waiters help you) yourself, served in about
10 minutes after your order with green peppers
and sliced onions. Those not willing to bother
Chapter 198
Kaş
Kaş (pronounced Kaash) is a “Turkish Delight” city in a huge celebration in the town square (meydan).
the very south (Mediterranean) of Turkey.
198.1.1 Climate
198.1 Understand
Kaş is one of the southernmost points in Turkey—indeed,
it lies on about the same latitude with North African city
of Tunis—so be ready for very hot and sticky summers.
198.2 Get in
Kaş is halfway between Dalaman Airport (180 km) and
Antalya Airport (192 km) and a fair distance from both,
so it avoids excessive package trade. There are various
ways to get to Kaş from these airports. The easiest way,
and the most expensive, is by taxi. You can hire a taxi in
the airport (generally more expensive - around 200 TL),
or you can book a transfer from the hotel where you will
be staying or from a local travel agency in Kaş (around
150 TL). You can take a bus or dolmuş(a shared/bus taxi
of usually 12 passengers) however they stop in every small
village along the way which takes more time.
There are also direct overnight bus services between Is-
tanbul and Kaş, a rather inexpensive way of getting to and
from the capital. Bus services in Turkey are very modern
and generally excellent and, if you want to get to Istanbul,
you may prefer spending the night in the bus and wak-
ing up in Istanbul the next morning rather than wasting a
whole day traveling to the airports for a local flight.
A street in Kaş. Note the Lycian sarcophagus at the background The bus station (otogar) is located right at the centre of
town, on the side of main square.
Kaş has several rocky (not sand) beaches but they are
The savvy traveler should remember that when traveling
quite small, most are less than 10 metres wide. However
into Kaş, there are several national holidays to keep in
the rock shelves are wonderful for sun and sea bathing.
mind as they can cause delays in travel, traffic congestion,
These are populated by cafes and restaurants which pro-
booked up accommodations and crowded venues.
vide free loungers. In return you are expected (but not
obliged) to buy drinks, snacks or food from them.
The town has many decent hotels and restaurants and is a
bustling centre for adventure activity holidays. The main 198.3 Get around
season is from April through the end of October. Octo-
ber 29th (Ekim yirmi dokuz) is Turkish Independence Day Kaş is a small town, and you can walk anywhere within
and the official end of the tourist season in Kaş. There is 10 minutes. Scooters are available for rent around town
570
198.5. DO 571
(30-35 YTL per day, depending on season), if you just • Patara ruins & beach
can't be bothered.
• Kaputaş beach & Blue Cave
Minibuses run around the Peninsula of Çukurbağ, known
in Turkish as Yarım Ada, which is a few kilometers away • Limanagzi(Sebeda-Bayindir) beach
and where most hotels have their own terrace “beaches”
open to the public (as long as beverages or food are con- • Big Pebble Beach
sumed from their beach bars). Taxis to the peninsula can
be costly, at least US $10 each way. • Hidirellez Sinkhole
Transportation in Turkey is excellent. You can take a • Factoria Bay

minibus (or dolmuş) up to the village of Çukurbağ, about
10 km directly above and behind Kaş and on to places • Cape Ulburun
such as Kekova or Kalkan on either side of Kaş.
• Cukurbag Village
• Saribelen Village
198.4 See
• Kyenai ruins
• Pinara
• Xanthos & Letoon ruins in Kınık
• Hoyran village and ruins
• Gedife Cliffs
• The long line of murals painted on the wall of

town’s harbour are quite interesting and are appar-
ently inspired by the ancient local culture of Lycians
and other civilizations which took place throughout
the history in Turkey.
198.5 Do
Within reasonable driving distance are locations for scuba
diving, hiking, truck safaris, snorkeling, canyoning, gorge
walking, coasteering, sea kayaking, cycling, walking and
paragliding, as well as wonderful beaches. Local tour
companies are happy to arrange any of these activities.
Kaş is considered the “Diving capital of the Med.”
The nearby “sunken city” of Kekova (which you are not
The Greek island of Kastellorizo as seen from the ancient theatre
allowed to stop over) is a great daytrip that usually in-
of Antiphellos cludes a stop in the lovely village of Simena for lunch.
Bougainville Travel also offers sea kayaking at Kekova
(60 TL/person, including transfer from Kaş). Plenty of
• Lycian Way other companies offer a similar trip, usually starting at
• Ancient theatre and acropolis in Kas (Antiphellos: 65 TL but easily negotiated if you say another travel com-
Habessos) pany is offering it for 60 and you look like you are about
to leave. Dolce Vita Travel (located next to the tourism
• Phellos ancient city info center) and two other companies offer a joint trip ev-
ery day in the high season, albeit a bit impersonally led,
• Kekova Sound, where the sunken Lycian city is lo-
to Kekova and Simena. Fun, plenty of rest time, good
cated
buffet lunch (drinks extra, so bring water), but did have
• Aperlai ruins that cattle-herding feel even though group sizes are usu-
ally around 10-16 people.
• Appolonia
Dragoman Travel offers a longer version - their Kekova
• Saklikent gorge West sea kayaking trip allows you to explore more
572 CHAPTER 198. KAŞ
silent parts of Kekova Sound and islands, and com- It is just above the Lycian tomb at the top of Uzun
bines paddling, hiking to Aperlai, and kayak sailing (75 Çarşı (Long Market) street or “slippery sokak.”
YTL/person).
On Republic Day (October 29th), there is a huge cele- If you move away from the “most popular” restaurants,
bration in the town square (meydan). Tourists, Kaş lo- you will find good home cooking (ev yemekleri) us-
cals and outlying villagers all come together to celebrate. ing garden fresh produce and priced very economically.
There is lots of Turkish music, dancing and drinking of Hanemeli restaurant is of the home cooking variety but
alcohol, especially rakı (pronounced ra-kuh, also called you have to ask around to find it. Soda pop prices can be
“Lions milk”), the unofficial national drink. expensive though, as most restaurants charge 3 YTL for
a can, compared to a bottle of water for a mere 2 YTL.
A beer is between 4 or 5 YTL. If you walk around and
browse the menus and prices, you will probably find a
198.6 Buy place which is suitable for you at a price you can afford.
You can buy tourist kitsch in Kaş but there are also excel-
lent carpet shops and many quality jewelry shops. Some 198.8 Drink
of the jewelry and fine ceramics are made by local artists
in their own shops. Kaş has endless varieties of shop- There are plenty of bars available in Kaş and many are
ping experiences, often of higher quality than most tourist open until 3 am every night during the April through Oc-
towns, but most importantly, strict regulations the local tober season. Beer is between 3.5 and 4 TL (Turkish
government has placed on its market mean the shop own- Lira) and you may pay up to or maybe more than 5 TL
ers are simply not allowed to hassle you. Complaints for a drink. Mavi Bar is one of the more popular during
about a shop owner can result in the loss of their oper- the April to November season. There are many tables and
ating license. chairs outside of the bar and it is not unusual to see a large
Uzun Çarşı (lit. “long market”, also known as “slippery crowd after 2:00 am still gathered there. Another old and
street” amongst the travellers to the town) is the most fa- established bar is Red Point Bar owned by Tevfik Serin
mous shopping street in Kaş and arguably one of the most who was born and raised in Kaş.
famous on the “Turkish Riviera.” Long on quality and Just about any kind of music can be heard from commer-
short on kitsch, from late April until after the end of Oc- cial pop music to jazz and even foam parties are avail-
tober, this is a bee hive of activity. There are a few restau- able. However do not expect too much since Kaş is a
rants and bars just off of Uzun Çarşı and at the bottom is small town, things you can do are a bit limited if you are
the town square (meydan) and at the top, just beyond the looking for a crazy night out. Still there is dancing to pop-
Lycian Tomb are a fantastic group of restaurants. ular music and also quiet hideaways for simple gatherings
Every Friday (behind bus station) and Tuesday (on hill of friends. Fights and rowdy behavior are seldom seen
west of the center), year round, there is an open air mar- and not tolerated. The police and gendarme (jandarma)
ket which has almost anything you can think of from fresh are present but unobtrusive.
fruits and vegetables, to clothes, village hardware tools,
pirate DVD’s and CD’s, gozleme (erroneously called a
Turkish “pancake”) vendors and textiles. Plan to spend at 198.9 Sleep
least half a day there whether you are just a curious on-
looker or serious shopper. Bargaining for all but the fruits Accommodation in Kaş is mostly found either in down-
and vegetables is common but at the end of the day, you town, or in Çukurbağ Peninsula (yarımadası). Those on
may get a discount (indirim) if you ask for it. the peninsula often have excellent views of the sea, but
those in downtown are obviously more convenient when
going out to have a dinner. In Kaş, a short walk from the
198.7 Eat downtown Kaş area (meydan) is a westward facing row of
hotels next to the sea. All of them have beach access and
beautiful sea views. Room rates in almost all hotels vary
There are many, many places to eat in Kaş, restaurants depending on the time of the year; high season is usually
are in abundance. Some restaurant prices are a bit steep June, July & August, April & May as well as Septem-
in Kaş, but at most restaurants you'll get your money’s ber through the end of November are delightful times to
worth as the food is usually excellent. enjoy the sun and water of Kaş and hotels may accom-
modate you with a good price if they are not full and if
• Bahçe (Batche) Restaurant is one of the most fa- you ask them for a discount (indirim).
mous and popular of the fine restaurants. It boasts
an open air garden dining experience with quick but • Ani Pension, Yeni Cami Caddesi (Recep Bil-
efficient service and very fresh and delightful dining. gin Caddesi) 12, ☎ +90 242 836-17-91, e-mail:
198.9. SLEEP 573
info@motelani.com. A popular backpacker stop, a quiet evening. Amazing scenery looking towards
with large rooms that come with a balcony (com- the Greek island of Meis and bay of Kaş. Also a
plete with laundry drying rack) and en-suite. The little tip, if you are traveling with kids, hotel does
downsides are the roosters across the street, which not accept children under 12. From €74.79/€85.19
go crazy at about 3:30 AM, and the bed sheets are a double rooms low/high season.
bit small for a double. If you ask for it, you can get
French toast with breakfast, for a bit of a change • Medusa Hotel, Küçükçakık Mevkii No:61, ☎ +90
from the standard Turkish breakfast. The dinner 242 836-14-40, fax: +90 242 836-14-41, e-mail:
(additional 12 TL) is a bit disappointing, and for a medusahotel@gmail.com. A cute boutique place,
few extra lira you can get a much better meal else- the Medusa Hotel is located a short walk from the
where. 30 TL per night for double, 20 TL for a sin- town center yet it is in a very quiet location. It is di-
gle (closet sized) with breakfast. rectly up from the beaches and has a fantastic west-
ward view of the sea and the sunsets. It also has a
• Aphrodite Pansiyon, Engin Caddesi, Zeytin large swimming pool, bar and terraced area. The
Sokak, ☎ +90 242 836-12-16, fax: +90 242 managers are Peter & Nurçin who are Belgian and
836-14-49, e-mail: info@aphroditepension.com. Turkish respectively. They are also archaeologists
Guesthouse offering rooms with en-suite bath- who have taken over a long running family business.
rooms, air-con, and balcony with the views of sea They have 2 suites and several large as well as many
and the Greek island of Kastellorizo. standard rooms on three floors. well worth a look
see.
• Arpia Hotel, ☎ +90 242 836-37-37, e-mail:
info@kas-adventure.travel. A boutique hotel lo- • Oreo Hotel, Yaka Mahallesi, ☎ +90 242
cated on the Çukurbağ Peninsula, 4 km from down- 836-22-20, fax: +90 242 836-43-10, e-mail:
town Kaş. All the rooms have en-suite bathrooms, hotel.oreo@gmail.com. Located just a short walk
balconies and afford beautiful views of the sea. A from the town centre and the Mediterranean
very quiet place to relax with “hidden” private areas seafront. A fun place for activity and adventure
for sun bathing and close to the sea for swimming. with a young, dynamic clientele and friendly,
There is also a swimming pool for those less adven- knowledgeable staff. The hotel is located in a
turous or with small children. peaceful setting amid a lush garden with a variety
of trees and plants and a mountain backdrop. The
• Ateş Pension, Yeni Camii Caddesi, no: 3 (Call for hotel has great views from rooms, all of which has
free pickup from bus station), ☎ +90 242 836-13- air-con and en-suite. The Oreo Hotel also has a
93. Check-out: 10:30AM. For independent trav- large swimming pool, bar and terraced area.
ellers, Ateş is the least expensive place in town, with
the only dorm in Kaş. Despite this, their rooftop
• Hotel Villa Kaş (Villa Otel Kaş), Küçükçakıl
terrace views and generous buffet breakfast exceed
Mevkii 51 (500 m to downtown), ☎ +90 242 836-
those of more expensive pensions. The terrace also
12-10, e-mail: info@hotelvillakas.com. Hotel on
has a traditional-style cushioned seating area, per-
Küçükçakıl beach.
fect for lounging with a cool drink in the hottest part
of the day. Ateş is run by a small friendly family, and • Kaş Camping (First way: follow the road from the
they're happy to give free information on just about bus station downhill into the center (about 0.5 km).
any activity in Kaş. Good home-cooked meals are Turn right at the traffic circle, after which you pass
a welcome change to kebabs and pide. Guests have a bunch of pensions/hotels. Follow the road past the
access to the swimming pool in the hotel across the hospital (hastanesi) for less than a kilometer, past the
road, but most people are better off strolling the few Antiphellos Amphitheater. Second way: Leaving the
extra metres down to the seafront, where free sun- bus station and going downhill, take the first right and
loungers are available and the snorkelling is excel- walk less than half a kilometer where you will see
lent. High season: 25 TL (dorm), 30 TL (double signs toward the hotel peninsula. Walk uphill a bit
room with bathroom). and turn left at the intersection.). Wonderfully lo-
cated among olive trees just to the west of town on
• Gardenia Boutique Hotel, Hükümet Caddesi 41, the sea, 5-10 min walking to center, 15 min to bus
Küçükçakıl Mevkii, ☎ +90 242 836-23-68, fax: station. Fridge to store food, sink to wash dishes.
+90 242 836-28-91, e-mail: info@gardeniahotel- Restaurant isn't friendly about eating outside food at
kas.com. A popular spot for couples, especially for the tables. No internet available. Camping areas can
the ones on honeymoon. Rooms are large and ex- get tight in the high season and on weekends when
tremely modern for a small town like Kas. Air-con, Turkish tourists come. If you wait until they turn the
safebox, satellite TV, en-suite in every room. Walk- restaurant lights off around 23:00 you can go quietly
ing distance from the town center, but far enough for down to the platforms by the sea, put down one of
574 CHAPTER 198. KAŞ
the pads used for sun bathing, and have a good night
under stars. Per tent: 28 TL (if you look pathetic,
can negotiate to 25 TL), per bungalow (2 people):
60 TL.
198.10 Go next
• Dolmus (minibuses) run frequently connecting
nearby towns like Oludeniz, Antalya, and Fethiye.
Check at the bus station (otogar) for the current
schedule.
• The Greek island of Kastelorizo, known in Turk-

ish as Meis, is just opposite Kaş, almost literally a
long stone’s throw away (roughly 2000 meters), and
is served by frequent daily boat services from Kaş.
Chapter 199
Kemer
Kemer is a city in Lycia, Turkey. • Yellow taxis has a set price of 135 lira to/from the
airport.
• Scandinavian charter operator Tyrkiareiser run

199.1 Understand coaches between Kemer and the airport when they
have flights arriving/departing. Quoted at 150 Nor-
wegian Kroner NOK per person, (about 32 TL)
or 200 NOK including pickup in Arslanbucak.
Tyrkiareiser Kemer office phone: +90 242 814-66-
10
199.2.2 By car
• The wide highway D400 with separated lanes per
each direction, which passes by the town, connects
it with north (Antalya) and south.
199.3 Get around

Kemer
• Bus service (dolmuş) as usual. 1 TL. Route up to
Kemer is a coastal city with some beaches, as well as Arslanbucak and all the way down to the beach.
mountains (up to the elevation of 2200m) close by. Sur-
rounded by large resort hotels on northern and south- • Yellow taxis are common. The ~3km distance be-
ern sides, this city is a much preferred destination tween Arslanbucak and downtown Kemer costs 13-
for Russians on package holidays—as well as Western 16 TL.
and Northern Europeans—and one of the few towns in
Turkey with a welcome sign in Russian (in addition to
• Some of the restaurants and beaches offers to pick
the usual Turkish, English, German, etc).
you up, and return you home, for free.
199.2 Get in 199.4 See

199.2.1 By air
199.5 Do
Antalya Airport, the nearest international one, is about
42 km to the north-east, about an hour away by car. There • Sea to Sky/Olympos Teleferik (colloquially known
is no airport shuttle service to Kemer, but it is reported as 'Tahtalı Teleferiği' in Turkish), Yeni Mah.
that a 3 hour bus ride is possible. Atatürk Bulvarı 2/1, Kemer (their office in down-
town) (access to lower station is from a 7-km sur-
• Kemer Koop. (, tel: +90 242 814-38-28, face road that branches off from the main high-
info@kemervipkoop.com) operates a 24/7 VIP way between the towns of Çamyuva and Tekirova ,
pickup service. 100-110 TL one way between air- 8 km south of Kemer; shuttles are also available),
port and Kemer. ☎ +90 242 814-30-47, fax: +90 242 814-44-91,
575
576 CHAPTER 199. KEMER
e-mail: info@tahtali.com. Every half an hour be-

tween 9AM-7PM daily in high season/10AM-5PM
daily in low season. Cable car connecting to the
2,365 mt summit of Mt Tahtalı. A trip takes 10 min-
utes. 75 TL/€30.
199.6 Buy
199.7 Eat
• Kardelen, Aslanbucak. Excellent food. 20-25 TL
for a main course.
• Merhaba Garden. Great steaks. ~20TL. Pickup

service at tel +90 242 814 5594 or +90 535 554
3661
199.8 Drink
The night clubs in town are open till 4AM daily. Live per-
formances are held on some days, when entrance tickets
cost 20 to 35 TL.
199.9 Sleep
199.10 Connect
Dial +90 242 xxx xxxx (from out of Turkey) or 0 242 xxx
xxxx (within Turkey) to call local phone numbers.
199.11 Go next
Chapter 200
Kınık
Kınık is a town in Lycia, administratively in the south- 200.3 Get around

western extremity of Antalya Province, Turkey. It’s
mostly visited because of its proximity to the ancient Ly- Xanthos lies 1 km away from the town, while Letoon is
cian sites of Xanthos and Letoon, both of which are in 4 km away. Lycian Way, recognizable by its distinctive
the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1988. yellow-black signs, links both to the town centre. Walk-
ing from town centre to Xanthos takes about 15-20 min-
utes.
200.1 Understand
Kınık is an inland town on one of the rather rare coastal
plains along this part of Mediterranean coast. The
200.4 See
main livelihood for the local people is vegetables (mainly
tomatoes) produced in the greenhouses surrounding the
town—indeed, Kınık is one of the places with the high-
est concentration of greenhouses in anywhere in Turkey
and you will not be able to see an inch of soil not covered
by plastics around the town when looking below from a
nearby higher hilltop.
200.2 Get in
200.2.1 By bus
Batı Antalya provides bus service to Kınık from Fethiye

in the west and Kalkan, Kaş, Demre, Finike, Kumluca,
Monumental Lycian tombs in Xanthos above the theatre
Olympos, Kemer, Antalya in the east.
200.2.2 By car • Xanthos (Turkish: Ksantos, although always re-

ferred to as 'Xanthos’ or 'Xantos’ on signs) (on the
Kınık lies close to (about 1 km away) main Fethiye-Kaş- top of the hill overlooking the town, about 1 km
Antalya highway (D400). The next large-ish town to east, away. Follow yellow sign from the town centre).
Kalkan, is about 19 km from Kınık. Xanthos was the capital of the Lycian federation,
which ruled what is now southwestern Turkey in pre-
Roman times. Fiercely independent Lycians burnt
200.2.3 On foot themselves and their cities to the ground twice here,
in order not to fall in hands of the invading Persians
Lycian Way, a waymarked hiking trail along the Lycian and the army of Alexander the Great, respectively.
coast (though usually a few hundred metres above the Lycian tombs, an amphitheatre, and an obelisk bear-
actual coastline, through the mountains with gorgeous ing the longest Lycian text ever found to the date are
views), traverses the town and connects it with several among what to see there. There is a car park at the
towns, villages, and ancient ruins in the surrounding re- entrance. 4 TL. The section in which still excavation
gion. work is going on is for free.
577
578 CHAPTER 200. KINIK
• Letoon (4 km away from Kınık). Letoon was an

important religious centre of Lycia. 12 TL.
200.5 Do
200.6 Buy
200.7 Eat
200.8 Drink
200.9 Sleep
200.10 Stay safe

An old guy with a somewhat dilapidated Mercedes seem-
ingly approaches anyone apparently a traveller (carrying
a large backpack for example), offering ride to Patara,
about 10 km away. One day in July 2009, in down-
town Kınık, he approached a backpacker, when his fellow
backpacker was away, and asked whether he would like
a ride to Patara for 20 TL. His offer was refused by the
backpacker. Later in the same day, in Xanthos this time,
he approached the other backpacker. However, this time
the price went down to 10 TL, half of what was asked for
initially. His offer was declined once more, and when told
that the backpackers preferred to hitchhike, he said it was
real hard to hitchhike out of town and the travellers would
waste too much time waiting beside the road, which, of
course, was not the case.
All in all, it’s up to you to decide whether to take a ride
with this guy or not. However, if you decide to go with
him, be ready to bargain hard and never ever pay more
than 10 TL total.
200.11 Connect
There is a post-office (PTT) in town centre.
The telephone code of Kınık is (+90) 242.
200.12 Go next
• Patara, one of the longest stretches of sandy beach
anywhere in the Mediterranean basin, with some
Lycian and Roman ruins behind the shore, lies some
10 or so km to the south of Kınık.
Chapter 201
Marmaris
Marmaris is a town in Turkey, along the Mediterranean 201.3 See

coast in the province of Muğla. It has around 28 000
inhabitants, however the population can be up to 250,000
during the height of the tourist-season.
201.1 Get in
You can get flights to Dalaman, the nearest regional air-
port which is 100 KM away from Marmaris. Coach trans-
fers are 1 1/2 hours. Airport is served by many operators
such as thomsonfly, flythomascook, EasyJet and Turkish
airline OnurAir. Transfers are easily arranged on-line and
there are frequent bus connections which correspond to
the arrival of domestic flights provided by Havas costing
25 TL single. (Havas bus tranfer times are detailed out-
side the airport terminal building). Tourists from the UK Marmaris Castle
have to buy a Turkish multiple entry visa at the point of
entry costing £10 (Bank of England Notes Only) which There’s plenty to do in Marmaris. Busy beaches, lots of
are valid for 180 days entry for visits of up to 90 days bars and restaurants, plenty of shopping with fabulous
duration. bargains if you don't mind wearing fake designer labels.
Marmaris has a busy nightlife with a street devoted to
dance music and all the high tech clubbing scene. Bar
201.2 Get around Street is opposite the busy bazaar and will satisfy the most
discerning clubbers with it’s huge outdoor dance venues
and all of the latest tunes.
Cheapest way of getting around is using the dolmus
minibuses. These are 11 seaters which travel the main Marmaris has lots for families too. Great inexpesive boat
road in Marmaris and Icmeler, the neighbouring resort. excursions can take you out round the bay and to neigh-
The fee is 2.00 TL anywhere in Marmaris and 2.50 TL bouring towns like Icmeler and Turunc with all inclusive
between Icmeler and Marmaris. Marmaris dolmuses food and drinks all day for as little as 25 TL. Marmaris
have a green band across them and orange for Icmeler. also has two water parks and local travel agents offer a
Other dolmus services serve Armutalan which is a sub- range of trips to Dalyan, Fethiye, Pamukkale, Ephesus
urb of Marmaris. The Armutalan dolmus has a blue band and other popular locations in Western Turkey. Another
across them. worthwhile trip is to Mugla, the regional capital which
can be reached by frequent bus service from Marmaris
You can pick them up from the side of the road by hail- Bus station (Otogar) for 12 TL. Journey time over the
ing for them and they will stop wherever you want on the mountains is about 1 hour and is well worth the effort as
route. Mugla is a real Western Turkish town not affected greatly
Other buses are frequently available and compete with by tourism.
dolmus services. They are slightly cheaper and are coun- The town of Marmaris is not just for the package holiday
cil owned buses which are similar in concept but slightly visitor as a trip to the harbour area will confirm. There
larger than dolmus minibuses. you can see ocean going yachts costing $10 million and
Taxis are also available on the meter or arranging prices rub shoulders with those who can blow $1000 on a pair
up front but are very expensive (prices are negotiable). of sunglasses in the exclusive upmarket designer harbour
579
580 CHAPTER 201. MARMARIS
shopping area. 20TL perperson including transport to and from the

Marmaris is primarily a resort that caters for British holi- baths.
daymakers but recently has become popular with Russian Turkish night - entertainment night with traditional Turk-
and other Eastern European visitors. ish food, dancing and entertainment including belly
dancers. Many hotels do their own Turkish nights and
prices range from 15-30TL for the buffet and entertain-
201.4 Do ment.
Also, trips to further afield such as Dalyan turtle beach
and mud baths, Pamukkale, Lycia etc.
201.5 Buy
Lots of shops selling usual tourist fodder as well as local

specialities such as Turkish Delight, carpets etc. Most of
the branded clothing on offer is fake and is very cheap but
Sundecks in Marmaris the quality can be surprisingly good (Check sizes before
committing to buy, especially when buying in markets).
You can have a daily cruise taking you around the Beware of pirate DVDs and games as many will not work
turquoise coves, mountainous shoreline, ruins of ancient despite assurances from vendors.
cities, and a cave (the only entrance of which is from the
sea) surrounding Marmaris with a stop at the beach of Real leather can be bought for a good price if you're pre-
pared to haggle. Starting prices are normally at least 2-3
leafy Cennet Adası (“Paradise Island”—actually a penin-
sula officially named Yıldız, however it does not have a times the final price!
connecting road to the rest of the mainland), which en- Hairdressing and beauty treatments are good value but
closes the Bay of Marmaris. Just take one of yachts beware of tattoo hygiene issues if you decide to be inked
(which have a capacity of 20 people) which can be found permanently.
all along the waterfront of city centre, you can easily rec- For food, there is a large supermarket at the end of the
ognize them by their boards and touts—who will try to main road before the harbour and marina called Tansas
convince you to take their tour, but basically all tours are which stocks virtually everything including international
the same. A tour doing the Bay in an anti-clockwise fash- brands. Tansas has a sister company caled Migros which
ion (i.e. Turunç first, Paradise Island last) may be worth- has two stores in Marmaris, one at the harbour and an-
while to look for, as most tours ply around the Bay in other larger store on the main road close to the Marmaris
clockwise direction, and thus you don't have to be with Court building. Another hypermarket is situated on the
hundreds of others who took other boats all the time. main road beyond the suburb of Armutalan, Kipa is the
Book or buy a seat at least one day beforehand. Such an Turkish division of Tesco and offers a huge range of in-
excursion cost about 25 TL per person in Summer 2010 ternational and own brand products at competitive prices.
(including a meal). This type of cruise is good value but
even better when offered with all-inclusive local drinks Most tourists enjoy visiting markets in both Marmaris
which can be expesive once on board a boat! (Armutalan) and Icmeler. The markets sell most of the
same things the local shops stock but one can haggle a bit
Many of the local tour companies offer trips such as: more. Beware of pickpockets in these places. The mar-
Jeep Safari - drive around mountains surrounding Mar- ket in the Armutalan area of Marmaris is on a Thursday
maris and visit villages, waterfalls and picturesque and the Icmeler market is every Wednesday.
beaches. A tour around the Peninsula of Bozburun Tortoises: Beware some unscrupulious Turks try to sell
to south of Marmaris usually combines a visit to the baby tortoises to tourists and encourage them to smug-
Kızkumu sandbar, see below, “get out” section for more gle them back home in luggage as pets. They will die of
information. Great value fun day out at about 25TL per course in aircraft holds and can be picked up by airport
person. x-ray machines in hand baggage. It is an offence to at-
Turkish baths - a traditional turkish bath (Hamam) with tempt to import a tortoise into most EU states as they are
sauna, body peel, foam massage and oil massage. From an endangered species.
201.8. SLEEP 581
201.6 Eat There are a selection of good clubs along the beachfront
which play a variety of music and cater to different tastes.
Many places on the beachfront main road and just off Turtle Bar is by far one of the best bars there, bar outside
it serving Turkish, English, Dutch and other nationality with nightclub inside, without the incredulous prices of
food. Tends to be cheaper away from the harbour and Bar street.
marina. For hardcore partiers Bar street is where the party’s at.
Nice restaurants are located on the beachfront prome- Located in the old town this street has over 100 bars and
nade. clubs ranging from rock bars to Club areena, a huge out-
door nightclub with foam parties. All are open to at least
Proprietors will stand outside establishments and harass 4AM.
you into looking at their menu. Don't be too intimidated
and a polite No thank you or Later will put them at bay. Beware when drinking in Bar Street as prices are much
Marmaris and Armutalan councils have no tolerance for higher (15-20TL for a spirit and mixer) than those along
hassle and have special local police (Zabita) who video- the beach front although entry to most clubs is free and
tape and close establishments who harass tourists. Most there are periods when there are special offers available.
local establishments no longer hassle passing tourists.
Prices are 5-8 TL for starters, 10-20 TL for entrees de-
pending on establishment.
201.8 Sleep
Money saving tips: Many places will accept “interna- Lively hotels can be found generally in Marmaris City
tional” Currencies £$ € these curriences can gain you Centre
heavily discounted prices in certain restaurants such as a
three course meal for £5 (please note Scottish notes not More laid back hotels can be found in the Armutalan
usually accepted) area at the back of Marmaris where the local council has
banned the playing of music after Midnight. Armutalan
If self catering visit the many supermarkets located in council has also banned live entertainment from bars lim-
Marmaris the larger are Tansas, Migros and Tesco iting it to hotels.
Kipa.
There are exceptions however so make sure you choose a
A bottle of water at a hotel can cost anything from 4-8 hotel that suits you.
TL. A 8 litre bottle of water can be purchased here for 3
YL. Many of these supermarkets have in store bakeries As with any trip it is advisable to check websites such
which produce lovely fresh bread. as trip advisor, for info on your hotel before you book
as there can be great differences. All inclusive deals are
good value but beware of bed and breakfast and half
board as hotels may restrict you bringing food or drinks
201.7 Drink into their premises making you dependent on their of-
ferings which will be much more expensive than buying
Local beer is served everywhere and is very good, called from a supermarket. In a very hot climate like Turkey a
Efes. Another drink worth trying is Ayran which is a few drinks each day can add a lot to a holiday cost. In self
yogurt based drink. Very cooling and good for you. catering properties beware of damage charges. Soiled
towels and bedding can cost up to 80TL to replace and
Also, some establishments stock imported beers such as damage to curtains and furnishings can be very costly.
Becks, Budweiser or Fosters but tend to be more expen- Note any damage however small on arrival and report it!
sive. Wine is very expensive and seems to be all local.
Good and common winery is Villa Doluca.
One of the local drinks provided by hotels as an alterna- 201.9 Go next
tive to fruit juice is called 'Tang'. It is manufactured by
Kraft and is available in sachets which mixed with water • Ferries and high-speed hydrofoils depart several
make 1 litre of fruit drink. The sachets cost about 0.65 times a day to Rhodes, Greece but port charges are
TL and when varous flavours are mixed make a very inexpensive. Still a good day out and a chance to
expesive and refreshing fruit drink. visit another country and sample it’s culture whilst
closeby.
201.7.1 Nightlife • Flights to international destinations avalible from

Dalaman airport.
Marmaris is famous for its fantastic nightlife.
For pre partying drinks many small bars along the beach- Turkish Airlines has a store in downtown Marmaris
front offer the perfect place to watch the warm sun set. where flights can be booked. OnurAir also fly to several
582 CHAPTER 201. MARMARIS
Turkish destinations from Dalaman. Beware: Prices at with the golden sands virtually non-existent any-
Dalaman Airport are expensive. A coke costs 7 TL, Large where else in the Eastern Mediterranean, accompa-
Local Draft Beer 15 TL and a McDonalds/KFC Meal 25 nied by milky turquouise waters of the cove. The
TL. Avoid the expense by taking food/snacks with you legend has it that Marcus Antonius have this sand
from the resort before flying from Dalaman. brought in from Egypt for honeymoon on the is-
land with his lover, Cleopatra of Egypt, however ex-
perts conclude that this unique sodium bicarbonate-
201.9.1 Nearby containing sand is actually consisting of dissolved
seashells. The sands are under heavy protection and
• Datca is located 70-80 km west of Marmaris. It’s a removing any quantity of sand from the beach is
nice place for who want to escape from Marmaris’ forbidden, so no towels or shoes are allowed in the
crowd and noise. Datca, is a holiday place who beach and anyone entered the beach must have a
doesn’t like much noise, but would like to see natu- shower before exiting. Sometimes bags are searched
ral things. Espicially it’s beautiful coves and bays are upon exiting, too. Frequent boats to island de-
(Palamutbuku, Hayıtbuku, Mesudiye) very famous. part from the harbour near the highway north to
Also the ancient city of Knidos on its tip. It’s very Akyaka/Gökova/Muğla, about 10 km north of Mar-
easy to find direct bus services from main terminal maris (watch for brown Sedir Adası signpost) after
of Marmaris. crossing the mountain pass just after leaving Mar-
maris behind. Boats cost 10 TL pp return, and ad-
• Bozburun Peninsula, has beautiful coves, pine mission to the island is a further 10 TL pp. There is
covered mountains and villages. Especially in- a small kiosk on the island with fairly priced drinks.
teresting on this peninsula is Kızkumu (literally Kiosk doesn't sell any alcohol but it’s allowed to
“Maiden’s Sand”), a sandbar that shuts the entrance bring in from the mainland with you (as well as any
of a cove almost completely. It’s located on the west- other snacks and drinks). The beach closes at 7PM
ern shore of the peninsula, near Orhaniye village. and it’s best to visit the island in the morning, as early
Story has it that a young lady started to spill the sand as possible, because the beach gets overcrowded es-
she gathered into her skirt, while escaping foreign- pecially after 1PM during the high season.
ers on one shore of the cove, and also to meet her
lover who was waiting at the opposite shore. But the
sand hadn’t lasted enough for the entire gap of the
cove, so when her sand ran out, in order not to be
caught by the foreigners chasing her, she committed
a suicide by jumping into the water. Scientists have
another explanation, though. Kızkumu’s length is
about 1 km, and the sand (or more like reddish finely
grained pebbles) is only one ankle under the water
surface all along the road, also its width is more than
enough for 5 people to walk side by side, so you can
easily walk on the top of it (as many other people
do). Its ending point is signed by an easily-visible
Ionian column, so don’t worry.
• Akyaka about 20-25 min of driving in the north has

a stony-but-beautiful beach, pine forests, and build-
ings that maintain a lovely local architecture.
• Icmeler, Cennet Island, Gunnucek, Turunc, Kum-

lubuk, Turgut, Orhaniye, Hisaronu, Ciftlik, Sogut,
Bozukkale, Bozburun, Gokova, and Dalyan are
some of the popular coastal towns close to Mar-
maris.
• Sedir Island (Sedir Adası) a.k.a. Cleopatra Island

— north of Marmaris in the Gulf of Gökova, Sedir
Island, known in ancient times as Kedreae, features
an amphitheatre and some other Greek/Roman ruins
shadowed by the silvery green olive trees. However,
its biggest claim to fame is its Cleopatra Beach,
Chapter 202
Ölüdeniz
Most busses will drop you off at the bus station in Fethiye,

from there you can take a very frequent minibus (dol-
muş).
202.3 Get around

Dolmuş busses running from Fethiye to Ölüdeniz connect
Ovacık with both cities.
202.4 See
Blue Lagoon in the centre with the surrounding coves and moun- • Blue Lagoon (Ölüdeniz). Access to the beach is
tains. In the lower right of the photo is the town of Ölüdeniz. shut by the evening, around 6PM. Known in Turk-
ish literally as “dead sea” because of the stillness of
Ölüdeniz is a town near Fethiye in Turkey, famous for the water, the lagoon is a nature preserve. To enter
its 'Blue Lagoon'. the park there is a fee of 5 TL per person. You will
also likely have to hire a beach chair which are an
additional 6 TL each (5 TL for an umbrella). 5 TL.
202.1 Understand
202.5 Do
The village and the beach by the lagoon was locally known
as Belcekız or Belceğiz before the area became a magnet
for mass tourism, although today many people in the area
have no idea about what Belcekız is and the town as well
as the lagoon are both known as Ölüdeniz, which liter-
ally means “dead sea” and originally referred only to the
lagoon itself.
Inland to the north, 2 km to Ölüdeniz, are the former vil-
lages of Ovacık and Hisarönü, with occasional family-
run guesthouses only a decade ago, but are today concrete
sprawls of hotels and bars, agglomerated almost without
a gap with the town of Ölüdeniz. Both serve as “bedroom
communities” that offer accommodation that is close to
but cheaper than Ölüdeniz proper.
Over the tip of the lagoon’s sandbar
202.2 Get in
• Paragliding. A number of companies in Ölüdeniz
Ölüdeniz is connected to Fethiye with a wide road that is offer paragliding opportunities from the summit of
well-paved and is in a very good condition. nearby Mt. Babadağ, about 1,900 mt from the sea
583
584 CHAPTER 202. ÖLÜDENIZ
elevation. A “trip” from the top to the beach takes 202.9.2 Mid-range
around an hour and offers stunning views of the Blue
Lagoon and the valleys and mountains covered with • Aygul Hotel (600 m. from the beach), ☎ +90
pine forests around. Training and tandem flights are 252 617 00 86, fax: +90 252 617 06 10, e-mail:
also possible for those unexperienced at paragliding. info@aygulhotel.com. Family owned, small hotel.
Rooms with air-con, TV, and balcony. There are
• Hike along Lycian Way. You can hike to Fethiye also a swimming pool with children section, play-
the western end of the Lycian Way or just start in ground, and safety boxes. Staff is friendly and fluent
the direction of Faralya (5h) and Kabak. While the in English and French. The hotel is on the top of a
views of the sea, the mountains and the Ölüdeniz small hill, so it has clean and cool air flow. View of
beach are great, there isn’t much shade on the way to the Oludeniz from the hotel is breathtaking.
Faralya, so try to avoid the noon-heat, bring enough
sunscreen and water (or some water purification if • Orka Village (4 km from the Oludeniz
you intent to use the cisterns on the way). If you’re beach and a short walk to the centre of His-
just doing a day hike you can take a dolmuş back aronu), ☎ 0117 230 3677 in the UK, e-mail:
from Faralya (last one leaving about 19:40). You can orkavillagerentals@gmail.com. Check-in: After
also take the dolmuş to Kabak and hike the coastal 4pm, check-out: 12:00 pm. Orka Village is set
route to Faralya (4-5h) and again return by dolmuş, in a private complex with breathtaking views of
though it’s well worth staying at either village. the Babadag mountains. The site is beautifully
landscaped and features a 650sq metre swimming
pool and a separate children’s pool. There is also a
bar/snack bar on site. The complex also features a
202.6 Buy reception, secure parking and 24h security. 2 BR
ground floor self-catering apartment from £250 per
• Dia (on the Hisarönü roundabout). Store of national week.
supermarket chain Dia. Fresh fruits and vegetables,
snacks, soft and alcoholic beverages. Credit cards
are accepted. 202.9.3 Splurge
202.10 Go next
202.7 Eat
• Butterfly Valley (Faralya) is a remote canyon to the
south, on the sea-shore, with some rare butterflies
202.8 Drink and waterfalls. Boats and minibuses head there from
Ölüdeniz. A little further south, at the end of the
202.9 Sleep road is the village of Kabak, which has a canyon
similar to Butterfly Valley, although a little easier to
access.
Both Ölüdeniz and Ovacık are cluttered with hotels, most
of which have an online presence and can be found • For a bit of history and a deserted ghost town expe-
through various hotel-booking websites. rience in your trip, take the road to west from His-
arönü and head to Kayaköy, where hundreds of par-
tially ruined houses cover the side of a hill.
202.9.1 Budget
• Ovacık to the north of Ölüdeniz marks the official
• Sultan Motel, Kırıncağıl Mahallesi, Ovacık- beginning of Lycian Way, a 500+ km hiking trail
Ölüdeniz (about 250 mt from Ovacık-Ölüdeniz leading to Antalya in the east.
highway towards the start of Lycian Way, follow
the signs for Lycian Way or much bigger 'Montana
Resort Hotel'), ☎ +90 252 616-61-39, fax: +90
252 616-62-61, e-mail: info@sultanmotel.com. A
hotel at the official trail head of Lycian Way, a very
convenient base to get rest after/before your long
hike. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, and
balconies, all with the view of large pool. Double
rooms (low/high season): 25 TL/30 TL bed and
breakfast per person, 35 TL/40 TL half board per
person. 0-6 years of age free, 7-12 years of age
50% discount.
Chapter 203
Olympos (Turkey)
Olympos (Olimpos) is a string of pansiyons and tourist that autumns when everyone else quits the scene, Olym-
activities strung along a narrow road on the bottom of pos is just as beautiful as it used to be.
a valley just inland from coastal Roman ruins in Lycia,
Mediterranean Turkey. It might be generously labelled a
“village”.
203.2 Get in
Olympos is about 50-60 km south of Antalya. Nearest
203.1 Understand major towns are Kumluca to the south and Kemer to the
north of Olympos. There are minibuses from Antalya’s
otogar (main station for intercity buses) as well as buses
from Antalya to Kaş (and all those others on the way west
like Kumluca), which stop at the junction on upland sec-
tion of the main coastal highway of the region, which is
about 10 km away from Olympos. There is a station at
the junction with an open air cafe, which also offers some
snacks. From there a dolmuş, which depart fairly frequent
nowadays, can be caught.
203.3 See
Pine-clad mountains and ancient ruins: the general scenery in

Olympos
Ancient Lycian ruins, an isolated Mediterranean beach,

accommodation in treehouses and flames that mysteri-
ously burn from the side of a mountain are some of the
attractions of Olympos (Olimpos) in Turkey’s south.
The modern “village” is named after the Lycian/Roman
city that now lies in ruins on the beach, which in turn is
named after nearby Mt. Tahtalı, the highest mountain
of the vicinity and, along with some other 20-odd notice-
ably high mountains in northeastern Mediterranean basin,
known as Olympos in antiquity. Sarcophagi at the ruins of Olympos
A hippie haven until recently, the completion of a sur-
faced road from the main highway in summer 2009 means The “town” area is a collection of backpacker guesthouses
that there are many more people (including families with and hostels, particularly popular are the treehouse style
fussy children, and rowdy and drunk teenagers) heading bungalows. Follow the dusty road down past the end of
there compared with only a few years past. In summer the guesthouses and it leads to an ancient winding path,
weekends when hordes of day- (and night-)trippers pour past the remains of ancient Greek ruins and down to the
in, Olympos is sadly not much different from any ordi- sparkling water. It’s a pebble beach with absolutely no
nary resort town now. However, former habitués report shade, so it’s blisteringly hot to sit on and not very com-
585
586 CHAPTER 203. OLYMPOS (TURKEY)
fortable without thick padding, but the scenery is spec- 203.7 Drink
tacular.
The ruins themselves are quite impressive, not as much A supermarket open year round around 1km down the
so as Ephesus but still worth seeing. The relative lack road from Kadir’s sells alcohol for around 4YTL for a litre
of tourist traffic compared to Ephesus means the site is bottle of beer and 20YTL for a bottle of dodgy vodka.
largely overgrown, which gives the place a “mystical” feel,
so you have to do some hiking to get to some of the re-
mains. I was there in late May and it was already brutally 203.8 Sleep
hot, so be prepared with lots of sunscreen and water.
Entering the ruins cost 5 TL/person, and going to the
beach requires entering the ruins and the staff at the gate
make no distinction between someone visiting the ruins
and a beachgoer, so you'll have to pay this fee each time
you're going to beach, except, of course, late at night and
very early in the morning, when the office is unmanned.
There is also the option of buying a weekly pass which
costs 7.5 TL and for 10 entrances to the ruins, and thus
the beach.
203.4 Do
Bayrams has a lively social scene, with several resident “Tree house"-style accommodation
Aussies tending bar. When it’s fully dark you can take a
bus up to Mount Olympos, with a 45 minute hike up to the
Eternal Flames of the Chimera. These flames issue from • Bayrams Tree Houses, Olympos, ☎ +90 242 892-
natural gas jets in the side of the hill, which will self ignite 13-99. Tree houses.
if put out. These are the flames that inspired the Greek
myth of Bellarophon and the Chimera. Ranging in size • Kadir’s Tree Houses, Olympos, ☎ +90 242
from small flickers to decent size campfires, they're quite 892-12-50, fax: +90 242 892-11-10, e-mail:
interesting when you consider they've been burning for info@kadirstreehouses.com. Synonymous with
thousands of years. Olympos in the minds of many young travellers.
Gulets cruising down the coast from Antalya stop at the Recommended for rock climbing (45 TL for 2
beach to allow their passengers to wade ashore and visit climbs). The price includes simple breakfast and
the ruins or eat at one of the many beachside restaurants. delicious vegetarian dinner. There is a popular
disco featuring dancing around fire. It’s free for
Kadir’s residents except weekend when it costs 10
TL. Dorms 20/25 TL low/high season; tree houses
203.5 Buy 25/35 TL low/high season; bungalows 45/60 TL
low/high season.
Since the area is under protection, no permanent con-
struction is allowed (save for treehouses) and as such there
• Turkmen Tree Houses, 07359 Olympos, Kum-
is no formal bank in Olympos. Olympos is a small vil-
luca, Antalya, ☎ +90 242 892-12-49. Also known
lage and has no banks or facilities to obtain cash, so make
as 'Turkmen Pension Olympos’. Offers lodging, a
sure you have enough before you come. However, a mo-
restaurant, nightlife, activities, and a shop. Claims
bile satellite-connected cash dispenser run by the Turk-
to be the only pansiyon with wastewater (sewage)
ish bank of Yapı Kredi is available in a central location
treatment.
between guesthouses, sometimes in summer.
• Deep Green Bungalows (also known as Olym-

pos Deep Green), Olympos, ☎ +90 242 892-10-90,
203.6 Eat e-mail: info@olymposdeepgreen.com. Facilities:
Deep Bar, hammocks, library. They can arrange
There is an open-air restaurant named Muzo’s on the path boat tours, and trekking tours to Yanartaş/Burning
to beach, just after the ticket office, where you can have a Stones. The rates include breakfast and dinner.
cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) for 3-4 TL Dorms 25/35 TL low/high season; bungalows 35/50
while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges. TL low/high season per person.
203.10. GO NEXT 587
• Zeus Pension, Olympos, e-mail:

ferahzeus@yahoo.com. A family business,
this place offering bungalows is run by Ferah and
Ferruh brothers and their sister, Hatice. Ferah and
Ferruh can arrange tours, trekking, and airport
transfer, while Hatice is at the kitchen, preparing
the meals. Bungalows 35/45 TL low/high season
per person including breakfast and dinner.
203.9 Connect
203.10 Go next
Minibuses leave to the station on the main road every cou-
ple of hours. From there, dolmuşes go towards Antalya
and Kaş (15 TL) every 30 minutes. It may be worth ask-
ing about buses direct to Fethiye if that is your destina-
tion.
There are also gulets that leave from Olympos going to
Fethiye generally taking 4 days to get there.
• Adrasan about 4 km away, having been spared (at

least for now) from development since the surfaced
road does not yet reach there, is the destination of
choice for the former frequenters of Olympos who
flee the crowds newly arriving to Olympos. How-
ever, footsteps of development has also recenty been
started to be heard there, too, along with an increas-
ing number of tourists—even a tour bus or two can
now be seen in the high season. It’s also neither a
particularly cheap place to stay in (you might find
dorms going for 25 TL pp lalf-board at Jungle Bells,
though), nor is the scenery as beautiful as Olympos.
But still, it’s quiter than Olympos; make no mistake,
though—it’s nowhere as relaxing as Kabak around
the other side of the peninsula!
Chapter 204
Pamphylia
Pamphylia (Turkish: Pamfilya) is a region in the south- 204.3 Understand

ern Mediterranean region of Turkey. With large sandy
beaches backed by Roman ruins, Pamphylia is great for
The region occupies northern coasts of Gulf of Antalya, a
swimmers, as well as history lovers.
large indentation of Mediterranean Sea, and some places
more inland. Pamphylia is one of the rare large coastal
plains in western Mediterranean Turkey, which results in
204.1 Cities large and long sandy beaches. The plains are backed by
the Taurus Mountains, which gets closer to the coast as
you approach east, where the terrain is much more moun-
• Antalya — the largest city and hub of the region tainous, and the mountains usually ascending from right
at the edge of the sea.
• Aksu — a small city close to Lara, Kundu, and Perge In modern administrative terms, Pamphylia lies on the
central and eastern two-thirds of Antalya Province.
• Alanya — a coastal resort city with some history to Tourism scene in the region largely consists of all inclu-
see dating back to Seljuqs sive resorts with an abundance of palm trees mainly serv-
ing package tourists, with a wealth of Roman ruins all
• Belek — golf courses amidst pine woods around in the mix and mountains overlooking the coastal
strip.
• Kumköy — a coastal resort near Side
• Manavgat — hub for visiting nearby waterfalls

204.4 Talk
• Serik — a small city close to Aspendos
• Side — a seaside resort with some well-protected 204.5 Get in

Roman ruins including an amphitheatre
204.5.1 By plane
204.2 Other destinations The only international airport in the region is An-
talya Airport (IATA: AYT), located in the outskirts of
Antalya. Another one, Gazipaşa Airport, about 40-50
• Köprülü National Park — 92 km northeast of An- km southeast of Alanya, is under construction.
talya, this national park is based on Köprülü Canyon,
with a Roman bridge and restaurants offering fresh
trout
204.5.2 On foot
• Saklıkent Ski Resort — 45 km west of Antalya,
usually possible to ski November through May Lycian Way, a waymarked hiking trail, is a great, if a
bit tiresome, way of getting into the region. It con-
• Termessos — ancient Pisidian city 30 km northwest nects Fethiye and several towns and ancient sites (some of
of Antalya over the mountains; one of the best pre- which are off the beaten track in a literal sense) along the
served ancient cities in Turkey with an amphitheater Lycian coast with Hisarçandır, a village up on the moun-
and rock-cut tombs tains southwest of Antalya.
588
204.13. GO NEXT 589
204.6 Get around • Lycia to west — where you can do the gorgeous
“Blue Voyage” in the coves surrounded by verdant
mountains. Lots of history to see here too.
204.6.1 By car
• Cilician Mountains to east — beaches, pine forests,
D400 Highway enters the region from its both western and historical sights again, but much less touristed
and eastern extremities and traverses the whole region (and indeed, more sparsely populated) than Pam-
with closely following the shoreline, and thus connecting phylia.
all significant coastal cities and towns (i.e., all of those
relevant to travellers). • Northern Cyprus to southeast — it is possible to
catch a ferry to Kyrenia from Alanya in high season.
• Lakes District to north — over the Taurus Moun-

204.6.2 By thumb tains, inland Lakes District is another off the beaten
path destination.
People in the region are not very friendly towards
hitchhikers. But unfriendliness here should not be taken
as that you will be shown middle fingers or that they will
stop next to you, express some nasty comment, and ac-
celerate as fast as they stopped: They just don’t stop, and
behave like you are not even there. Even if you are a very
good stop (nearby traffic lights, lots of cars, and a large
shoulder to pull over), expect to wait at least two hours
for a lift (at least in eastern and northern sections of the
province: the highway between Antalya–Alanya and the
highway north from Antalya), but maybe that was the gen-
eral unluck of two males hitching together.
204.7 See
204.7.1 Itineraries
204.8 Do
204.9 Eat
204.10 Drink
204.11 Stay safe
204.12 Connect
The telephone code for Pamphylia (as well as part of
Lycia) is (+90) 242.
204.13 Go next
While Pamphylia has some of the finest beaches of
Mediterranean Turkey, Turkish coast isn't all about Pam-
phylia. The following are some of the nearby places that
are also worth a trip:
Chapter 205
Alanya
to the castle if you don't want to walk all the way up the
hill.
Also you can rent an electric scooter or a bike.
205.3 See
• The Citadel (Kale) occupies a hilly peninsula sur-
rounded by the sea on three sides, and by the mod-
ern parts of the city on the other. Although the signs
showing way to ‘Castle’ (Kale) points to the highest
parts of the walls, the walls can be followed starting
right at the sea level. Particularly interesting in (or
Red Tower and part of Alanya Castle next to) the citadel is the tip of the peninsula formed
by a high and narrow extension of rocks, jutting long
into the sea. This formation is named Adam Atacağı
Alanya is in Pamphylia, Turkey, situated on the south
in Turkish (pronounced aa-daam aa-taa-jaa-a), lit-
coast. It is a popular tourist destination.
erally “man thrower”, as here was where people con-
demned to death were pushed into the sea.
205.1 Get in • The Red Tower (Kızıl Kule) – The hexagonal tower
of the citadel which is nearest to sea.
Alanya is about 2 hours drive from the nearest interna-
tional airport in Antalya and half an hour from Gazi- • Old shipyard (Tersane) – Built by the Seljuqs, this
paşa Airport, which mainly serves domestic flights with a structure dates back to 1228. Located very near the
limited number of European destinations. Most holiday Red Tower.
makers land in Antalya and are then taken to their hotel
in Alanya by bus. • Damlataş Cave near Kleoptra Beach.
If your hotel is a bit far from Alanya, you can stand out-
side the hotel on the road and wait for a Dolmuş to come • Caves around the town, accessible by boat trips.
by and pick you up. You can stop at dolmuş stops any-
where on the road, mostly there are bus stops, rarely at • Dim Çayı
someplaces there are not bus stops, they come in each 10
and 15 minutes and are sometimes quite crowded. Expect • Sapadere Kanyonu
to pay around 2 Turkish Lira per person for the ride.
205.4 Do
205.2 Get around
There is a lot to do in Alanya and there are plenty of tour
In the city center there is cheap Dolmuş to reach all companies whole heartedly willing to help you.
around the town.
Walking around the town is the best option except very • Boat trip (try to haggle down to €5 for one hour),
hot July and August days. You can take taxis or a Dolmuş should include visits to caves (if the weather permits
590
205.6. EAT 591
it) and lunch as well as animation with Eurodance You will have to haggle in the cocktail bars that are lined
music up along the beach promenade, if you don't want to pay
more for a meal and drinks than in Europe. Many restau-
• Scuba Diving (more fish during the high season) rants/bars/etc don't even have prices on their menu.
• Jeep safari tours
• Quad bike tours 205.6 Eat
• Donkey riding
Turkish food in general is really tasty. Try:
• Trip to historic Amphitheatre in Aspendos
• Paragliding • Lahmacun: These will cost you around 2 Lira and
are more like a snack than a meal
• Trip to Dim Çayı
• Baklava: Turkish sweet. The cost depends on the
weight (e.g. 12-25 Lira for a kilogram)
205.5 Buy
If you are in an “All Inclusive” hotel (which is usually the
Catering for all the European tourists, almost everyone case), all your meals are provided by the hotel.
in Alanya accepts Euros. You may not even have to ex-
change your Euros at all. When taking money out of the
automatic teller machines, make sure they can give you 205.7 Drink
Euros as well as Lira. It’s also very easy to exchange
all Scandinavian crowns (krona, krone, possibly except
• Turkish coffee
Icelandic króna) in many exchange offices of the town—
something not very usual in the rest of Turkey—as many
holiday-makers in Alanya are Scandinavians. Be warned that the prices of drinks in the night clubs may
be insanely high. Expect a beer to cost from €1.00 to
Alanya is full to the brim of shops, which become very
€4.50.
repetitive since they all sell pretty much exactly the same
wares. The shops shamelessly sell fake brands and goods,
where the expiry date has been long exceeded. A list of
the most common items: 205.8 Sleep
• Clothing: Shoes and T-shirts from Puma, etc. (fake • Villa Casara, Konakli, Alanya. beautiful brand
of course!) new Turkish villa, which sleeps 8 comfortably, is
bright, spacious and comfortable with all modern
• Watches: Everything from Seiko to DKNY (fake of conveniences. It is set in lovely palm lined gardens
course!) and the 3 balconies enjoy views of the mountains,
swimming pool and boast a direct view of the sea.
• Sunglasses
A great deal of cheap holiday packages, usually originat-
• Bags and Wallets ing in Germany or Scandinavia, include “All Inclusive”
hotels situated on the beach as part of the deal. For ex-
ample, an “All Inclusive” 4 Star hotel in Alanya including
• Turkish Tea sets
a flight to Antalya from Germany costs around €400.
• Water Pipes and tobacco
Be prepared to haggle, the shop owners expect it. This

205.9 Go next
means you need to know the approximate value for the
items you would like to buy. You can check the value • To the west, rest of Pamphylia offers many interest-
either by research online in advance or by asking any ing destinations.
friendly local. When you haggle, they will offer you an
absurdly high price. This means that you can offer a • To the east, Anamur, Silifke, and the rest of east-
couple of Euros and try to meet somewhere at the price ern Mediterranean coast (the Cilician coast: Cilician
you have decided to be your maximum. Obviously, you Mountains, Cilician Plains, and Hatay) awaits with
can't haggle in a supermarket, petrol station, etc. Try- its somewhat thinly populated and thinly touristed
ing to haggle for groceries is generally frowned upon. hilly landscape.
592 CHAPTER 205. ALANYA
• Cyprus, lying to the southeast, is also another option.

During the high season (May to September), you can
go to Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus by boat through
the company Fergün Shipping . It takes about 3 and
a half hours and costs 78 TL/person one-way or 130
TL/person return. Outside the high season, the in-
ternational port is closed.
Chapter 206
Antalya
Antalya is the largest city on the Turkish Mediterranean until the end of their holidays except perhaps a raid or two
coast, and is one of the hubs of the so-called Turkish Riv- to the nearest and the most popular attractions, so Antalya
iera. itself, especially the old town (Kaleiçi), is more of an in-
dependent traveller destination, where you will meet the
other travellers of a similar mind, and the locals.
206.1 Understand
206.1.1 Climate
Around April, when you can perfectly get a suntan and

the weather is much more bearable than summer months,
is one of the best times to visit the city.
206.2 Get in
Antalya is the closest airport, served by inexpensive
flights from Istanbul. (As low as $50, early booking is
also available for lower prices).
Yacht marina and part of old city of Antalya 206.2.1 By plane
Having entered the scene in 150 BC as Attalia, named Being 10 km from the city from Antalya, Antalya Air-
after its founder, Attalos II, king of Pergamon, Antalya port (IATA: AYT) caters to the charter flights full
has ever attracted a wide array of travellers, including of holiday makers. Airlines that serve Antalya in-
Paul the Apostle, and Ibn Battuta among others. Antalya clude: Pegasus, Transavia.com (lowcost and charters
had replaced Phaselis—beautiful ruins of which now lie from Netherlands, France and Denmark), AtlasJet (do-
to south of the city, between Kemer and Olympos—as mestic flights), SunExpress (dozens of flights from all
the main harbour of the surrounding region during the over Europe), Turkish Airlines (plenty of flights from
reign of Seljuks, in early 1200s, but the lack of a large Ankara and İstanbul-Atatürk), Aeroflot (daily flights from
hinterland (or, rather, lack of good connections with its Moscow-Sheremetyevo), Ukraine International Airlines
mountainous hinterland) meant for much of its history (several charter flights a week from Kiev). Britain is also
eversince that it was a provincial coastal town, albeit with represented by numerous Charter firms such as Thomas
a multicultural community of Muslims, Christians, and Cooks and Airtours.
Jews. As the centre of a region with beautiful beaches, As of March 2011, a taxi ride between the airport and
verdant mountains, and a mindblowing number of ancient the city centre will set you back € 18 (38 TL) dur-
ruins, the tourism investments started in 1970s, which ing the day. You may also prefer transfer companies
changed the fate of the city considerably. However, as in order to avoid any scam. Other, more wallet-friendly
most of the visitors (make no mistake—they are in the options for airport transportation include Havaş buses,
range of millions annually) to the region are actually on which are less expensive and more frequent; they depart
“all-inclusive” vacation packages nowadays, they are im- on the hour from “Güllük PTT” (10 TL). There are pub-
mediately taken from the airport to the huge resorts lining lic buses from the airport (line 600, “Terminal-Otogar”)
the coastline of hundreds of kilometres, where they stay which leave on the hour and some half hours and cost 3.40
593
594 CHAPTER 206. ANTALYA
TL. Busses from the otogar run along Adnan Menderes The Pamukkale Express is NOT operating as of April 2009
Blv and Mevlana Cd (exact location of bus stops can be and it is unclear when or IF it will resume service.
found on Google Maps).
To catch a public bus from the International Terminal
you have to go to the domestic terminal (300m, just turn 206.3 Get around
right when you leave the International Terminal); there is
a small blue “D” sign next to a larger ficus tree. There Antalya offers a variety of public transportation, such as
is another blue “D” sign next to the taxi stand in front public buses, trams, mini-buses, taxicabs and dolmus.
of the International Terminal which won't get you any-
where; waiting there usually attracts taxi drivers (telling
you, truthfully, “There is no bus leaving here!") offering 206.3.1 By bus
a ride.Besides,you can make pre-booking antalya airport
transfers by private taxi companies. In Antalya, buses pass from anywhere to any destina-
tion in the city. Fares are low and most buses offer air-
conditioning and TV even for short routes. To travel to
206.2.2 By bus remote places you may need to travel to the bus termi-
nal first. The bus terminal has its own buses with dis-
Antalya’s huge bus terminal is located about 6km north- tinctive blue stripes. As of 2011 bus terminal to city to
west of the city center, but easily reached using the tram airport travel (Bus route 600, “Terminal-Otogar”) is pos-
getting off at otogar station. sible every 30min. Route descriptions and schedules can
be found in this document. You can look up the street
The Turkish bus system is comprehensive and you can get names on Google maps which includes the location of bus
about anywhere from anywhere. Better spend a few more stops. There is also this map of bus routes in Antalya.
liras and you will have an unforgettable journey. Ulu-
soy has buses with seats that resemble business class in
airplanes. There are also other bus companies, including 206.3.2 By dolmuş
Kamil Koc, Truva and Varan. Some companies have an
onboard WLAN. Check otobusbileti displaying prices of Dolmuş literally means “filled up”. Dolmuş is a large cab,
bus tickets from Antalya to eighty one cities in Turkey. a station wagon, a regular taxi or a minibus that travels a
Fares are low. Simply show up at the bus station (otogar) certain route. Most major public transportation stations
and announce your destination. From most cities, there have a dolmuş station, where you just take a seat in the
are an overnight bus options (with Antalya ). There are dolmuş that travels your desired route. In Antalya dol-
regular buses destined for Anatalya that run along the muş does not wait until it fills up. Instead, it is scheduled.
coastal roads and stop at tourist towns such as Kas and However, if empty dolmuş will move slowly hoping to
Fethiye, although the latter one is reached quicker (3.5h find more passenger. Still it has to abide its schedule and
instead of 5-6h) using a direct bus not along the coastal cannot stall much.
road.
206.3.3 By taxi
206.2.3 By boat There are taxi stands all over the city where the drivers
have their base and tea pot. Each taxi is metered and there
Most travelers arrive in Marmaris from Rhodes, Greece, are two different rates. For popular destinations there are
then bus it overland. You can also take a ferry from price lists showing the rate in Euro. A fair rate is about
Kastellorizo, a tiny Greek island just off the Turkish fish- TRY 2.4 per kilometer.
ing village of Kas.
You can also negotiate with any taxi driver to be your
private tour guide. You also have to pay the gas money.
This option could be quiet expensive but if you have the
206.2.4 By train money, it is worth it! There is an option to book a private
taxi transfers from antalya airport.
The nearest train station is in Burdur, 122 km north.
However Turkish State Railways (TCDD) ceased to op-
erate direct passenger trains to Burdur from Istanbul. 206.3.4 By tram
However, from Denizli (4-5h by bus) there are regular
trains to Izmir. And from Konya you can catch high- The (historic) tramway has been donated by the German
speed trains north (as of 2013 only until Eskisehir and city of Nuremberg and connects the western Konyaalti
not to Istanbul because the track is under construction). Beach and Antalya Museum to the eastern part of the city
From Konya there are also trains going east to Adana. center. It runs all 30 min. in either direction and costs
206.5. DO 595
1.75 TL per person. Tramway can be used for sightseeing • The old quarter, Kaleiçi, has narrow, winding
as it passes most beautiful places of the city center. The streets enclosed in ancient city walls, which now pro-
new tram system (“AntRay”) currently (04/2011) consists tect the peaceful quarter from the noise of the con-
of one line, serving the route Fatih-Otogar-Muratpaşa- crete metropolis of a million people. Although there
Ismetpaşa-Meydan every 15min during the day. To get to are other entrances, it is best to enter and exit the
the Kaleiçi or to the interconnection with the historic tram old quarter from charming Hadrianus Gate, built
line, get off at Ismetpaşa station. Tickets (1.75TL) can by the Roman emperor Hadrianus as the entrance
be obtained at the stores around the stations or at specific arch to the city.
AntRay-counters (e.g., at the Otogar). If you're unsure,
just ask the helpful station guards. Check OpenStreeMap • There’s a great archaeology museum and plenty of
the location of tram lines and stops. historic buildings and ancient ruins nearby.
• Aspendos Theater (ancient Roman theater)
206.3.5 By car rental
Car rentals are available in the bus terminal, air port and
206.5 Do
city center. It is advised not to use car to reach city cen-
ter (specially Cumhuriyet, Atatürk, Isiklar streets, Saram- Most of Antalya’s historic buildings can be found along
pol street and old city), as finding a car park and the way the narrow, winding streets of Kaleiçi, the old quar-
people drive (sometimes you feel like you are in the race ter. Historical, architectural and archaeological sites of
tracks) might be difficult. Be sure to abide non-parking note include: Yivli Minaret, Karatay Medresesi, Hıdırlık
restrictions, the municipality is very strict about it. There Tower, Ahi Yusuf Mescidi, Iskele Mosque, Murat Paşa
are destination signs on roads to help travelers. Also most Mosque, Tekeli Mehmet Paşa Mosque, Balibey Mosque,
of the younger locals know English will be pleased to help Musellim Mosque, Seyh Sinan Efendi Mosque, Hadrian
about your destination. You can also obtain city map from Arch, and the Clock Tower. Many structures date back
tourist information desks in the city center. to the Hellenistic era. Also The Antalya Museum has a
notable archaeology collection.
206.3.6 By bicycle • Walk around and chill at Karaalıoğlu Park or ob-

serve fishermen at lively Yacht Harbour
Using bicycle in crowded roads might be dangerous and
tiresome(especially in summer as the temperature hits • Shop at great malls; Terracity, 5M Migros, Özdilek
high 40’s at noon (100F-120F). However, there are a few and Deepo Outlet Center.
bicycle-only roads passing beside the sea having incredi- • The hill of Tünektepe, with a height of 618 m/2009
ble views. ft, west of the city has a splendid panorama of An-
talya. On the top of it, there is a hotel, a rotat-
ing restaurant, and a nightclub, although the club is
206.4 See mostly open for private parties only.
You can take a short scenic cruise on the Mediterranean

from the boats anchored in the harbor. Assume that the
right price is about half of the first price you are offered.
Don't believe their assurances that the boat is leaving right
away—the boat will leave when the owners think there is
no reasonable chance that more passengers can be per-
suaded to board. Morning cruises tend to be calmer than
afternoon cruises.
206.6 Buy
The usual souvenirs are kilims, blue eyes, fake designer
clothing, shoes, aromatic herbs, waterpipes and more.
Hadrian’s Gate, one of the gates on the walls of the old city of If you feel the need to visit a modern shopping mall, Ter-
Antalya (Kaleiçi) racity Mall on the way to Lara has all of the international
designer shops you could wish for. There is even a stylish
Antalya is rich in history and art. supermarket and power boat dealer.
Pharmacies sell most prescription drugs completely legal 206.8 Drink

just over the counter and at low prices. A wide array
of generics (drugs containing the same agent as a brand Antalya has a lively nightlife in summer. Options in-
medicine, but from less known companies) is also avail- clude bars with nargile (water pipe), games, live music
able. Best-sellers include Viagra, Prozac, Ventolin, Xeni- and sitting around, discothèques with glamorous visitors,
cal, various contraceptive pills and antibiotics. etc. On Konyaalti’s Beach Park one club follows the next.
Some of traditional houses of Kaleiçi (Old City) has been
turned into bars, in which a bottle of 'Efes’ beer costs 6-
206.6.1 A word of caution 9 TL, depending on the place. Their gardens shaded by
trees offer a nice escape with a beer from the peak of
The export of antiques or objects considered so is strictly summer heat. Raki is a traditional alcoholic beverage
forbidden and will cause a lot of problems not to say hefty that tastes like licorice. Make sure you do not drink it
fines to those caught when leaving the country. Posses- fast otherwise you will be out quickly.
sion and possibly even commerce in Turkey is legal - just
the export is banned. Be on your guard and don't be-
lieve sellers who may try to convince you of the opposite. 206.9 Sleep
Also, customs back home target more and more faked
goods such as video, CDs, shoes, watches and the like. You can divide Antalya into two main areas (as far as
The odds of being caught are minimal, but you should tourists are concerned). The Old Town (Kaleiçi), as its
know that you are moving on illegal terrain. name implies, is full of character and has beautifully re-
stored buildings with small guest houses and more evi-
dently luxury boutique hotels. Lara to the east of the city
has many 4/5 star beach hotels that cater for the all inclu-
206.7 Eat sive holiday market. Both are good options, depending
on what you are looking for. Of course, there are very
A meal in a restaurant will normally set you back about good hotels outside of these areas, but not in the density
7 to 20 TL (a typical dish will be about 12 TL). Ser- that Old Town/Lara have.
vice is amazing, and only matched by its genuine friendli-
ness. There are also good seafood restaurants. Of course
seafood and fancy restaurants are more expensive. One 206.9.1 Old Town/Kaleiçi
caveat to be aware of is to make sure the quoted price is
the same as the price written on the menu. You can just stroll around (with luggage) and you won't
have to wait for long until you'll be offered 'Pansiyon'
If you’re on a budget you’ll appreciate the plenty quick (Hostel) accommodation. Almost every second house
eating stalls south of Muratpaşa, where you can get a in the Old Town is a small hotel (many of which are of
chicken dürüm from 2.5 TL. very high standard, with small swimming pools and smart
restaurants). A couple of years ago summers used to be
• Seraser Fine Dining Restaurant, Tuzcular mah. packed but those days seem to be gone. The big share
Karanlik sok. No:18 Kaleici/ Antalya, ☎ + 90 (0) of visitors to this region are package tourists being chan-
242 247 6015, fax: + 90 (0) 242 241 1981, e-mail: neled through all inclusive programs outside the city. As
info@seraserrestaurant.com. 15:00-01:00. nearly everywhere in Turkey accommodation prices have
been inflated in the last years. As of 2013, doubles start
around 60 TL (off season) and may be more expensive in
• MCYörüks, Atatürk Street 68 (Located between high season.
Işıklar and Karaoğlan Park). A middle class
semi-casual restaurant located in City Center serv- • Whitegarden Hotel / Pansiyon, Kaleiçi, Hesapçı
ing dishes and alcoholic/non-alcoholic drinks from Geçidi 9, ☎ 0242-241 91 15, 0242-247 41 66. Sim-
Western, Islamic and Turkish world as well as fast ple, clean and cheap hotel in the old town offers
food with live music every evening and night.Prices friendly service and good Turkish breakfast. 70 ytl.
are cheap and no more than 10 Euros per person for
a full meal.
• Terra Anatolia House / Pansiyon, Kaleiçi,
Hesapçı Geçidi 5, ☎ 0242-244 37 35. This is a bed
• Valkan Balık, 1315 Sokak (Near from the old town & breakfast type small hotel in the old city area of
and Atatürk Stadium), ☎ +90 242 248 8557. Deli- Antalya. 25 Euro.
cious fish and mezzes. Good atmosphere. Nice and
simple fishermen style decoration. ~35TL/person • Sibel / Pansiyon, Kaleiçi, Fırın Sok. 30, ☎ 0242-
for a whole meal. 241 13 16. Very nice hotel owned by a warmhearted
206.10. STAY SAFE 597
French woman who also speaks German and Turk- • Lares Park.
ish. Rooms have aircon, satellite TV and private
bathrooms. It is quiet at night and the breakfast is • Delphin Diva. Expensive but stunning hotel which
delicious. 25 Euro. is highly rated by travellers.
• Hotel Blue Sea Garden, ☎ 2422488213. Lovely • Delphin Imperial.

hotel with garden restaurant with a sea view, in
the old town. Friendly service and great breakfast. • Delphin Palace.
Strong wifi and fluent English spoken.
• Fame Residence.
• Kozan Otel, 1312. Sk. No.6, ☎ +90 242 243 • Concorde Hotel.
50 50. Not exactly in the old city, but very close,
in a quiet place where it is easy to park and where • Limak Lara.
you'll find of car rental opportunities. Ugly decora-
tion and non-English-speaking staff, but good com- • Sherwood Breezes Resort.
fort and friendly people. Double with bathroom &
AC : 80TL (~29€). • Royal Wings.
Splurge • Antalya Kervansaray Kundu.
• Alp Pasa Hotel, Barbaros Mah. Hesapçı • Baia Lara. Baia Lara receives consistently high rat-
Sok. 30, Kaleiçi (Old City) (100 metres from ings for quality and service.
Hadrian’s Gate.), ☎ +90(242)247 56 76, e-mail:
info@alppasa.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: • Hotel Lara Beach.
12:00. Luxury boutique style hotel in the histor-
ical district, also has a up-scale restaurant on the • Royal Holiday Palace.
premises
• Melas Hotel.
• Tuvana Hotel, Tuzcular mah. Karanlık • Saturn Palace Resort.
sok. No:18 Kaleiçi Antalya, ☎ +90(242)247
60 15, fax: +90(242)241 19 81, e-mail: • Green Palace Hotel.
info@tuvanahotel.com. Located within old
town “Kaleiçi”. 45 rooms and suites, restaurant • Venezia Palace.
“Seraser” on site.
• WOW Kremlin Palace. There have been many
complaints about safety, security and bad manage-
206.9.2 Lara Beach ment here.
At Lara, a suburb to the east of Antalya, there are a lot • WOW Topkapi Palace.
of stunning 4/5-star hotels along the beach. These gener-
ally cater for the 'All inclusive' package holiday traveller. • Mardan Palace. Reputedly has the largest swim-
However, they can also make an excellent base for those ming pool in the Mediterranean. Also claimed to be
wanting to visit places away from the resorts, but return the most expensive Mediterranean resort.
to some luxury in the evening. Being a package offering,
they can end up being relatively cheap. All of the hotels
fall into the Splurge category.
206.10 Stay safe
Splurge
Antalya Police Department has a “tourism police” section
From West to East: where travellers can report passport loss and theft or any
other criminal activity, they may have become victims of.
They have staff multilingual in English, German, French,
• Barut Lara.
and Arabic.
• Kervansaray Miracle Hotel.
• Miracle Resort Hotel. • Tourism Police (Turizm Polisi), Kaleiçi Yat Limanı
(at the marina below the old town), ☎ +90 242 243-
• Titanic. 10-61, fax: +90 242 345-41-13.
206.11 Go next 206.11.4 Further away

• During high season, buses run direct from tourist
206.11.1 Southwest centers including Istanbul, Ankara, Fethiye,
Bodrum, Marmaris and Selçuk.
• Kemer to the south west is a touristic sea side region
popular with the historical places, night life and ho-
tels which is half an hour from Antalya city. 206.11.5 Hitchhiking
• Further south, Çıralı is a coastal town with several • If you intend to head north by hitchhiking, take
mid-range, quiet pansiyons to stay at, including Ho- public minibuses #25 or #57 which stops at city bus
tel Canada, with pleasant gardens. The beach at stops near the otogar. These minibus lines take you
Cirali is protected from development because sea to a highway junction with traffic lights out of city,
turtles come onto shore every year to lay their eggs. situated amidst pine woods. This junction is not the
last stop so be sure not to miss the stop situated there.
• The beach at nearby Olimpos is also a nice, peb- (fare: YTL 1.35/person)
ble beach. Accommodations in Olimpos are more
backpacker style, with treehouses especially popu-
lar with younger travelers.
• Demre further west from Olympos, is the site of the

St Nicolas Church, associated with the real Santa
Claus (don't miss the larger than life Santa Claus
statue in town.) Also just outside Demre are Lycian
rock tombs in the cliffsides.
• Kaş which is about 2 hours drive from Antalya can

be another excellent choice for extended holiday if
you decide to run away from the whole crowd.
• Kalkan is half an hour further west of Kas. A beauti-

ful upmarket harbour town with cobbled streets and
high quality restaurants. Nearby Patara has the best
golden sand beach on the Mediterranean coast, and
can be visited even if you are not staying there.
206.11.2 East
• The Antalya region has some of the finest Roman

ruins in the country, including Perge and Aspendos,
with the largest, most well preserved Roman am-
phitheater anywhere.
• Belek to the east is popular with golf links and luxury

hotels.
• Further east, Side is a nice coastal resort with some

well-preserved Roman ruins.
• Alanya to the south east is a popular tourist destina-

tion 2 hours away.
206.11.3 North
• Trains and buses arrive in the travel hub of Denizli.

From there, dolmus take you the 10 miles or so to
Pamukkale.
Chapter 207
Belek
Belek is a resort town in Pamphylia, Mediterranean 207.10 Connect

Turkey.
The telephone code for the town is (+90) 242.
207.1 Understand
207.11 Go next
207.2 Get in
207.3 Get around
207.4 See
207.5 Do
• Golf — Belek has some of the best golf courses in

the country, usually located amidst pine woods.
207.6 Buy
207.7 Eat
207.8 Drink
207.9 Sleep
The region has 47 four or five-stars hotels and first-class

holiday villages and five golf courses.
• Calista Resort, Taslıburun Mevkii, Belek, ☎ +90

242 710 01 01. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon.
A five-star hotel made up of several 4-storey build-
ings with a total of 600 rooms. Standard amenities
include air condition, LCD TVs, internet access and
bathtubs, and there is a wide range of activities avail-
able. TL 200-5000.
599
Chapter 208
Manavgat
Manavgat is a city in Pamphylia, Turkey, lying roughly

at the midway between Antalya and Alanya.
208.1 Understand
A relatively big city with a population of about 75,000,
Manavgat, which lies on the banks of Manavgat River
a few km inland from the shore, is the hub for visiting
nearby waterfalls and seaside resorts, though the city cen-
tre itself is not of much touristical importance except for
some urban services which little nearby resorts cannot of-
fer.
Manavgat Waterfalls
208.2 Get in
• Frequent buses connect Manavgat with Antalya, the
regional capital and the site of nearest airport. metres high, the riverbed is wide and the flow high
enough to make the falls thundering and white all
• The highway D400, which traverses along all of over. In the viewing area, it’s possible to wet your
Turkish Mediterranean coast between Antalya and feet immediately on the edge of the fall safely in a
Adana, skirts the city on the southern edge with the small pond enclosed with fencing. The water is re-
city centre lying about 1 km north of the highway. freshingly cold! This waterfall is the main attrac-
It is about 80km from Antalya to the waterfalls. tion of the town and there are cafés and shops in the
adjacent area where you can buy tourist kitsch and
overpriced but good meals. It’s illuminated so can
208.3 Get around be conveniently visited also after the night falls. 3.5
TL, free after 8PM.
Manavgat has a public bus and minibus fleet, though the
city centre is compact enough to get along on foot.
To get to the waterfalls, take the minibuses (dolmuş)
with the sign Şelale - Sarılar from the main street of the
• Little Waterfall (Küçük Şelale) (1 km further north
city. These frequent minibuses cost 2 TL/person and take
from the Manavgat Falls). Little Waterfall is, as its
about 15 minutes to get to entrance of waterfalls area.
name implies, a somewhat smaller and less noisy
There is also a carpark free of charge at the entrance of
version of the Manavgat Falls, located about 1 km
the falls.
upriver from it. Not much in the way of non-locals
visit it so it lacks the touristical amenities the main
falls have, not even an entrance gate. The area
208.4 See around it is visited by local youngsters in their di-
lapidated cars during weekend nights to have a few
• Manavgat Waterfalls (Manavgat Şelalesi) (6 km drinks, as the garbage mounds through the summer
north of city centre). Though the fall is only a few point out, so be careful. Free.
600
208.11. GO NEXT 601
208.5 Do
• River cruises. There are daily cruises on Manavgat
River, between the city and the Titreyengöl (“trem-
bling lake”) area downriver, near where the river
empties into the Mediterranean. They depart from
the park between the bridge on the main street and
the yellow bridge.
• Riverside park. A beautifully landscaped park with

some open air cafes lies on the bank of the river,
great to take a stroll.
208.6 Buy
208.7 Eat
• Balik Marketim (near the 'yellow bridge' - the one
on which some pubs are located). A fish restau-
rant which offers very delicious and filling fried
fish sandwiches. Each sandwich also includes some
fresh green salad and one of them is big enough to
appease your hunger. It’s possible to sit on their pa-
tio by the street or to take out. 3-4 TL per sandwich.
Credit cards are accepted.
208.8 Drink
208.9 Sleep
208.10 Connect
(+90) 242 is Manavgat’s telephone code.
There is an internet cafe on the parallel alley to the
main street, near the fish market by the river (that ship-
like white building named 'Barbaros’), which costs 1.50
TL/hour.
208.11 Go next
• Side — A few km to the south, Side is a seaside
resort with some well-protected Roman ruins.
• Kumköy — Another nearby coastal resort.
Chapter 209
Side
Getting into Side... through the same gate that people used to
millennia ago!
The waterfront of the modern part of the town in the evening

Mediterranean Turkey, so it’s also easy to get there by
Side (pronounced see-day) is a resort town and a classical car.
historic site in Pamphylia of Mediterranean Turkey.
209.3 Get around

209.1 Understand
You will find taxis everywhere. You are unlikely to have
Upon opening to tourism in 1950s, the village of Se- many problems with them, but always agree on a price
limiye was renamed Side, as the Roman city on the site beforehand. They can do it on the meter, but then they
of the village was known in ancient times. Today Side is will only take you the long way round. Ask local shop-
one of the few sites where you can see Ephesus-like well- keepers/bar staff/hotel employees on how much a good
protected Roman ruins and modern constructions literally price is so you've got a clue.
side by side. You can also get a dolmuş (literally means “squashed
taxi”, just so you know what to expect!), a minibus ser-
vice that runs along most main roads and past major ho-
209.2 Get in tels. If you are traveling far then you will probably have
to change, but there should be a direct one to downtown
Manavgat is your first point of entry if you plan to get Side. Charging around 3TL, this is the cheapest way to
to Side by bus. From Manavgat, some bus companies travel. They have stops, but you can ask the driver to stop
offer minibuses to Side from otogar (bus station) free of anywhere on route usually. A cheap fun way of traveling,
charge. There are also very frequent minibuses (dolmuş) used by locals and tourists alike, just be prepared to travel
from downtown Manavgat which should not cost much in very crowded conditions.
more than a couple of Turkish liras.If you want to go ftom
Antalya you should get on Antalya-Manavgat bus at An-
talya Otogar(Bus Terminal). Ticket is 10TL and get off 209.4 See
at Side junction(Side Kavsagi). There is a free minibus
service that takes people to a parking just beside the his- • Roman ruins. Roman ruins of Side that are in fairly
torical part of Side. good condition include among others a quite large
Side lies 2 km south of main highway (D400) of amphitheatre, a temple (to Apollo), and a gate.
602
209.8. DRINK 603
209.8 Drink
209.9 Sleep
Cinar Garden Apart Hotel ( a cozy family hotel with All
Inclusive ) Cinar Garden
209.10 Connect
Side’s telephone code is (+90) 242.
209.11 Go next
• Manavgat Waterfalls, about 8 km inland north from
Side, makes a nice day trip while in the area.
Temple of Apollo
209.5 Do
209.6 Buy
One of the main things you will see everywhere is clothes,
clothes & more clothes!
You will find that most shops/stalls have mostly the same
range. At first, most, if not all of shopkeepers try to
charge a really high price to anyone that asks, and will
sell it for that price to anyone who is silly enough to pay
it.
Try to bargain as much as possible, if you're not comfort-
able about it, don't worry, they are! They expect you to
haggle. At most, your first offer should be half the asking
price, for example if they ask for 75TL, offer 35TL and
you will probably get it for 45TL. If you don't like the
price just walk out, they will follow you and give you a
better price.
The shopkeepers also drag you into their shop, and as the
competition is high, they will do what it takes to win you
over. Usually sitting you down, giving you tea, etc... But
you are not obliged to buy, there is plenty more where
they came from!
Buying from outside the main market is much better as
it’s usually cheaper.
209.7 Eat
604 CHAPTER 209. SIDE
209.12 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

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• Burhaniye Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Burhaniye?oldid=2615251 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anome-
bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Dikili Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dikili?oldid=2416582 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Stefan2bot,
(WT-en) Hanorah, (WT-en) Karter, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 6
• Edremit Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Edremit?oldid=2534593 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Texugo,
WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Güre Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/G%C3%BCre?oldid=2539805 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Texugo, Inas-
bot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Southern Aegean Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Southern%20Aegean?oldid=2642612 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Matroc
• Akyaka Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Akyaka?oldid=2301441 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en)
Maviska, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Traveler100, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Aphrodisias Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Aphrodisias?oldid=2623912 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Saqib, Ikan
Kekek, Riley Huntley, The Anomebot2, Quintucket, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Dronych and Anonymous: 1
• Bitez Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bitez?oldid=2301443 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Xltel, The Anome-
bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
• Bodrum Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bodrum?oldid=2685398 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Wrh2, Peterfitzger-
ald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Saqib, K7L, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en)
Tatatabot, (WT-en) Johnycanal, (WT-en) Stephen Atkins, (WT-en) Dantherocker123, (WT-en) Aphrodisiac, (WT-en) Travel Agent Soft-
ware, (WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Incir, (WT-en) SamM, (WT-en) Eugenio Archontopoulos, (WT-en) Spectral, (WT-en) Rovingjay,
(WT-en) Pamukkale, (WT-en) Cor1007, (WT-en) LimeBanana, (WT-en) OcG, (WT-en) Selimlatrous, Mey2008, Eco84, Ikan Kekek,
The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Marek69, CarsracBot, Crochet.david.bot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman,
Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Dronych, My name is not dave, Smokestack Basilisk, Pjamescowie, Dubravko and Anonymous: 80
• Datca Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Datca?oldid=2546854 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Ozbayraktar, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 7
• Denizli Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Denizli?oldid=2567432 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot,

(WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Incir, (WT-en) Rachael846, (WT-en) Safakyucel, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Marek69, Quintucket, WOSlinker,
Traveler100bot, Dronych and Anonymous: 11
• Gumusluk Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gumusluk?oldid=2625711 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers,
Vidimian, (WT-en) Maviskies, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Rovingjay and Anonymous: 2
• Muğla Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mu%C4%9Fla?oldid=2301448 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inasbot
and Traveler100bot
• Pamukkale Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pamukkale?oldid=2657540 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peter-
fitzgerald, Pbsouthwood, LtPowers, Vidimian, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, Epolk, Rumpeltux, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) TVerBeek,
(WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) PierreAbbat, (WT-en) Titania, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en)
Johnycanal, (WT-en) Bbb0777, (WT-en) Melbased, (WT-en) Polly, (WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Incir, (WT-en) Pamukkale, (WT-en) Volf-
gang, (WT-en) Bensonyeoh, (WT-en) Melroseresi, (WT-en) Martinmccarvill, (WT-en) Guide4pamukkale, (WT-en) Ketan.mohile, Ikan
Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Traveler100, Andyrom75, Texugo, WOSlinker, SteveRBot, Rastapopulous, Wrh2Bot, Matroc,
Dronych and Anonymous: 46
• Turgutreis Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Turgutreis?oldid=2625999 Contributors: Vidimian, Pashley, Ikan Kekek, Texugo and
Rovingjay
• Yalikavak Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Yalikavak?oldid=2602465 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Dguillaume, LtPowers,
Vidimian, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Rovingjay, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4
• Black Sea Turkey Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Black%20Sea%20Turkey?oldid=2638406 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Xltel, Elgaard, RegentsPark, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Ilkirk, (WT-en) Joelf,
(WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Salahana, Elelicht, Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Jzlcdh, Addbot, Globetrotter19 and
Anonymous: 14
• Central Karadeniz Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Central%20Karadeniz?oldid=2635950 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, NJR ZA, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Jzlcdh, Globetrotter19, Kiaora and Anonymous: 1
• Amasya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Amasya?oldid=2680543 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot,
The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Smokestack Basilisk, Missvain, Kiaora and Anonymous: 4
• Bogazkale Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bogazkale?oldid=2634251 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Saqib,
RegentsPark, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Globetrotter19 and Kiaora
• Ordu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ordu?oldid=2367573 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot and Addbot
• Samsun Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Samsun?oldid=2661169 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Globe-trotter, Xltel, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) MarcoPolo, Mey2008, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Quintucket, Texugo,
WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Jzlcdh, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Globetrotter19 and Anonymous: 10
• Tokat Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tokat?oldid=2676786 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Turkish tourism warrior,
Lubunya, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot and Addbot
• Çorum Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87orum?oldid=2635970 Contributors: Kiaora
• Eastern Karadeniz Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eastern%20Karadeniz?oldid=2645017 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Pashley, (WT-en) Escapetoparadise, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Globetrotter19, Kiaora and Anonymous: 5
• Ayder Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ayder?oldid=2651673 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, (WT-en)
12foot3, (WT-en) Cegri, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous:
2
• Giresun Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Giresun?oldid=2556097 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 3
• Rize Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rize?oldid=2647620 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en)
Michael.wironen, Thehelpfulbot, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Kiaora
and Anonymous: 2
• Sürmene Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/S%C3%BCrmene?oldid=2628527 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) 3210, Thehelpfulbot, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot
and Anonymous: 1
• Torul Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Torul?oldid=2618354 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, (WT-en) Es-
capetoparadise, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2
• Trabzon Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Trabzon?oldid=2651962 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzger-
ald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Xltel, Elgaard, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en)
Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) The Yeti, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Hscholz, (WT-en) Estelle1789, (WT-en) Basvan-
derveen, (WT-en) Incir, (WT-en) Salahana, (WT-en) Fakhraddin, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Wobuainile, Quintucket,
Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Henare, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Globetrotter19, Capiscuas, Ipsefui, Mumuski, Kiaora
and Anonymous: 46
• Western Karadeniz Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Western%20Karadeniz?oldid=2632741 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Eiland, LilHelpa, Texugo, Chris1515, Traveler100bot, Globetrotter19 and Anonymous: 1
• Akçakoca Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ak%C3%A7akoca?oldid=2362684 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 2
• Amasra Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Amasra?oldid=2556318 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Ilkirk, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 7
• Bolu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bolu?oldid=2301466 Contributors: Sertmann, Jjtk, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Nevit,
The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
• Boyabat Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Boyabat?oldid=2492344 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Chris1515,
Traveler100bot, Matroc, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 1
• Ilgaz National Park Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ilgaz%20National%20Park?oldid=2670285 Contributors: LtPowers,
Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, Jzlcdh and Anonymous: 1
• Kastamonu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kastamonu?oldid=2403658 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Tsandell, (WT-en) Huttite, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4
• Safranbolu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Safranbolu?oldid=2682026 Contributors: Cjensen, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Saqib, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Lfalkner, (WT-en) Mutluanaliz, Mey2008, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, Elelicht,
The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 17
• Sinop Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sinop?oldid=2368622 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, (WV-en) Travelpleb, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Tsandell, Saqib, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Senolgokmen, Elelicht, The Anomebot2,
LilHelpa, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 10
• Zonguldak Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zonguldak?oldid=2369866 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Addbot and Anonymous: 1
• Central Anatolia Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Central%20Anatolia?oldid=2639287 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Pb-
southwood, LtPowers, Vidimian, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) George Fu-
rimidad, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) KLuwak, Riley Huntley, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Quintucket, Texugo, Traveler100bot,
Addbot and Anonymous: 13
• Çankırı Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87ank%C4%B1r%C4%B1?oldid=2654024 Contributors: Sumone10154, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Koavf, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1
• Çatalhöyük Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87atalh%C3%B6y%C3%BCk?oldid=2626392 Contributors: Jjtk, Vidimian,
Johan Jönsson, Saqib, Koavf, Quintucket, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Çavdarhisar Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87avdarhisar?oldid=2647338 Contributors: Vidimian, Koavf, Inasbot, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Matroc
• Afyonkarahisar Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Afyonkarahisar?oldid=2362640 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Hayzem, The wub, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Addbot
• Aksaray Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Aksaray?oldid=2399730 Contributors: Pbsouthwood, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot,
(WT-en) Kocyigit68, (WT-en) 82-145, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 3
• Ankara Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ankara?oldid=2678468 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Pbsouthwood, Dguil-
laume, AndreCarrotflower, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, Saqib, K7L, Davidbstanley, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot,
(WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) Valtteri, (WT-
en) Rmx, (WT-en) WTDuck2, (WT-en) Edmontonenthusiast, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Bcnstony, (WT-en) Burgundio,
(WT-en) Umutluprens, (WT-en) 386-DX, (WT-en) MarcoPolo, (WT-en) Satallite, Mey2008, SarahStierch, Ikan Kekek, Lubunya, The
Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, Traveler100, EvanProdromou, Manning Bartlett, Texugo, WOSlinker, Handrian, Trav-
eler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Globetrotter19, FDMS4, Yokolucu, AntonBryl, Smokestack Basilisk, Pjamescowie,
Jverkoey and Anonymous: 65
• Eskişehir Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eski%C5%9Fehir?oldid=2663247 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) MarcoPolo, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Dronych, 118.93nzp
and Anonymous: 18
• Kütahya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/K%C3%BCtahya?oldid=2602886 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Re-
gentsPark, (WT-en) Elnotle84, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 4
• Kayseri Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kayseri?oldid=2681854 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Pashley, Tsandell, Elgaard, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Pdwerryhouse, (WT-en) Kalesin, (WT-en)
Janosch, The Anomebot2, Wobuainile, Texugo, Bilal Has, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Addbot, Kiaora, Wikiboer and Anonymous:
13
• Kemerhisar Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kemerhisar?oldid=2301480 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) 82-145, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
• Konya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Konya?oldid=2680447 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, El-
gaard, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Teeshirt, (WT-en) Swoof, (WT-en)
Rif, (WT-en) Energyworm, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, Quintucket, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Iba-
man, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Dronych and Anonymous: 31
• Sandıklı Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sand%C4%B1kl%C4%B1?oldid=2350361 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Hayzem, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Sivas Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sivas?oldid=2368643 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Ismailozcelik, Elelicht, The
Anomebot2, Quintucket, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 3
• Cappadocia Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cappadocia?oldid=2639771 Contributors: Cjensen, Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald,
Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, DenisYurkin, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Elgaard, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Tatata, (WT-
en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-
en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Rein N., (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Wojsyl, (WT-en) Bbb0777, (WT-en) Aphrodisiac, (WT-en)
Balizarde, (WT-en) Enigmasss, (WT-en) Glyphobet, (WT-en) KLuwak, (WT-en) Incir, (WT-en) Teeshirt, (WT-en) Bookinturkeytours,
(WT-en) Jetta, (WT-en) Aydchery, (WT-en) Eyvan, (WT-en) Cappadocia, (WT-en) Xgu, (WT-en) Cappadocia balloon tours, (WT-en)
Mrttoruko, (WT-en) Suplilumas, (WT-en) OG, (WT-en) Kapadokya, (WT-en) Cappadoxia, (WT-en) Stevogray, (WT-en) Swoof, (WT-en)
Cappadociaballoontours, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Cappadocia, Sanjorgede-
cappadocia, Bokaal, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Rastapopulous, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Mappadocia, Pnaha0, Kiaora and Anonymous:
130
• Cavusin Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cavusin?oldid=2346158 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Ubedac, The
Anome, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4
• Göreme Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/G%C3%B6reme?oldid=2649219 Contributors: Cjensen, Wrh2, Dguillaume, DenisYurkin,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Jonboy, Elgaard, Saqib, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en)
Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Edmontonenthusiast, (WT-en) Johnycanal, (WT-en) Tour.tk, (WT-en) Glypho-
bet, (WT-en) Holgs, (WT-en) KLuwak, (WT-en) Bookinturkeytours, (WT-en) Cappadocia balloon tours, (WT-en) Mrttoruko, (WT-en)
Ramnarasimhan, (WT-en) Af, (WT-en) Cintimani, (WT-en) Bcb, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Wobuainile, CarsracBot, Trav-
eler100bot, Danapit, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Pnaha0, Mozboz and Anonymous: 137
• Güzelyurt Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/G%C3%BCzelyurt?oldid=2301491 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anome, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
• Nevsehir Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Nevsehir?oldid=2630449 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Dguillaume,
DenisYurkin, LtPowers, Vidimian, Elgaard, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) KLuwak, (WT-en) Textibule, Ikan Kekek,
Elelicht, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Matroc, Addbot, Kiaora and Anonymous: 16
• Ürgüp Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%9Crg%C3%BCp?oldid=2635966 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, JimDe-
LaHunt, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Bookinturkeytours, Koavf, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, Crochet.david.bot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot,
Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Kiaora and Anonymous: 1
• Uçhisar Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/U%C3%A7hisar?oldid=2623889 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers,
Vidimian, (WT-en) Glyphobet, (WT-en) Stevogray, (WT-en) Textibule, Elelicht, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot,
Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 5
• Marmara (region) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Marmara%20(region)?oldid=2647262 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas,
Tsandell, Xltel, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Joelf, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot,
EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 13
• Bursa Province Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bursa%20Province?oldid=2577941 Contributors: Vidimian, (WT-en) Bill Ellett,
Traveler100, EvanProdromou, Texugo and Traveler100bot
• Eastern Marmara Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eastern%20Marmara?oldid=2564846 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Texugo and Traveler100bot
• Eskihisar Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eskihisar?oldid=2539669 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Xltel, Texugo, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Izmit Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Izmit?oldid=2408804 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot,
The Anomebot2, Marek69, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4
• Iznik Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Iznik?oldid=2645372 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Palaeotrav-
eller, Lambiam, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 5
• Osmaneli Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Osmaneli?oldid=2301516 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Yalova Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Yalova?oldid=2301517 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, (WT-
en) Welkinridge, (WT-en) Nikkiden, Ikan Kekek, The Anome, The Anomebot2, Annikat53, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Harunsahin and
Anonymous: 5
• Eastern Thrace Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eastern%20Thrace?oldid=2672203 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Lt-
Powers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Lo Ximiendo, Traveler100bot and Anony-
mous: 6
• Çerkezköy Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87erkezk%C3%B6y?oldid=2651181 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-
trotter, Koavf, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, Lo Ximiendo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Matroc
• Çorlu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87orlu?oldid=2672189 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian,
ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Themanwhowouldbeking, (WT-en) Eric Bauman, (WT-en) H3O, (WT-en) MesterSlagteren, (WT-
en) Infestor, Thehelpfulbot, Koavf, The Anomebot2, Infestor, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous:
6
• Demirkoy Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Demirkoy?oldid=2301519 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Lo
Ximiendo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Eceabat Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Eceabat?oldid=2647275 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2,
Malafaya, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1
• Edirne Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Edirne?oldid=2672187 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, Sumone10154,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Saqib, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Panos, (WT-en) Gobbler, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) Mar-
coPolo, (WT-en) Steppenfox, Thehelpfulbot, The Anomebot2, Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot,
Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 23
• Enez Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Enez?oldid=2301521 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anome-
bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2
• Gallipoli Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gallipoli?oldid=2531503 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Inas, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Roundtheworld,
(WT-en) MarcoPolo, (WT-en) Hasanbay, (WT-en) Iainidc, Aude, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot,
Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Pjamescowie and Anonymous: 20
• Gelibolu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gelibolu?oldid=2415279 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Texugo, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and Matroc
• Gokceada Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gokceada?oldid=2673140 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Morph, (WT-en) Dreampanorama, Marek69, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 6
• Keşan Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ke%C5%9Fan?oldid=2672180 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-

ers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, Thehelpfulbot, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and
Anonymous: 1
• Kirklareli Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kirklareli?oldid=2672176 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Ste-
fan2bot, Thehelpfulbot, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
• Kiyikoy Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kiyikoy?oldid=2301528 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, The
• Marmara Ereğlisi Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Marmara%20Ere%C4%9Flisi?oldid=2644122 Contributors: Dguillaume, Lt-
Powers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1
• Tekirdağ Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tekirda%C4%9F?oldid=2650627 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot,
Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 6
• Uzunköprü Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Uzunk%C3%B6pr%C3%BC?oldid=2672363 Contributors: Vidimian
• Vize Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vize?oldid=2642830 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Matroc
• Şarköy District Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C5%9Eark%C3%B6y%20District?oldid=2301533 Contributors: LtPowers,
Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
• Istanbul Atatürk Airport Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul%20Atat%C3%BCrk%20Airport?oldid=2665750 Contributors:
W. Frank, Ypsilon, Mey2008, WOSlinker and Anonymous: 2
• Polonezkoy Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Polonezkoy?oldid=2531131 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Stefan2bot, The
wub, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5
• Istanbul Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul?oldid=2685790 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Wrh2, Sertmann,
Jpatokal, Nicolas1981, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, DenisYurkin, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd, Vidimian, Inas,
JamesA, Pashley, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Yann, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Cacahuate, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, Epolk, K7L, Romaine, JimDe-
LaHunt, ClausHansen, (WV-en) Kalakar, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatata, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en)
Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Panos, (WT-en) WindHorse,
(WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Akubra, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) MarinaK, (WT-en) Jor-
danmills, (WT-en) Mnd, (WT-en) Jake73, (WT-en) Carsonroen, (WT-en) Gobbler, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Christiantc, (WT-en) Johny-
canal, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Tomkat, (WT-en) Jp james, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Travelboy, (WT-en) Sleepy-
head, (WT-en) Bbb0777, (WT-en) Belanotonyo1, (WT-en) Adam Carr, (WT-en) Acalamari, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) Bulliver,
(WT-en) Aphrodisiac, (WT-en) Cybjorg, (WT-en) Hokiesvt, (WT-en) Superrod29, (WT-en) Bertilivdet, (WT-en) 386-DX, (WT-en) Mar-
coPolo, (WT-en) Satallite, (WT-en) Ehn, (WT-en) Mreames, (WT-en) Patkica, (WT-en) Melbased, (WT-en) AndreasAndreas, (WT-en)
Limmat, (WT-en) EvolutionKills, (WT-en) Lee Woo-jin, (WT-en) Glyphobet, (WT-en) Hasanbay, (WT-en) Kmcdm, (WT-en) Fish, (WT-
en) Incir, (WT-en) Pcb21, (WT-en) SimonHadley, (WT-en) Sonofpatter, (WT-en) JacksonP, (WT-en) Eggplant ninja, (WT-en) Calbookad-
dict, (WT-en) Taksim, (WT-en) Gonz, (WT-en) Sunofeast, (WT-en) Markblank, (WT-en) Kalesin, (WT-en) Benne, (WT-en) Bismark,
(WT-en) Rainer198, (WT-en) Abogado, (WT-en) Soylentyellow, (WT-en) Rauf, (WT-en) DanielPerezM, (WT-en) Suleyman, (WT-en)
Vonnegutnut, (WT-en) Cpgharst, (WT-en) Yigit, (WT-en) ClaireDocherty, (WT-en) Bbchef, (WT-en) Snowshark, (WT-en) Pompom,
(WT-en) Erol.fazlioglu, (WT-en) Seslirehber, (WT-en) Puture, (WT-en) Chrisssail, (WT-en) Yetoo, (WT-en) Turkeytravelservice, (WT-
en) Runningfridgesrule, (WT-en) O.keskin, (WT-en) Atutuk, (WT-en) Gotoistanbul.com, (WT-en) Iulia, (WT-en) Bensonyeoh, (WT-en)
Barisyilmaz, (WT-en) Calledman007, (WT-en) Mapple, (WT-en) Bwelsher, (WT-en) Yalcinkonuk, (WT-en) Ogrenci Germany, (WT-
en) Wizardistanbul, (WT-en) Choubb2001, (WT-en) Travelover34, (WT-en) Danon, (WT-en) Dailyistanbultours, (WT-en) Turkeytours,
Thehelpfulbot, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Nick-D, Jonte--, Matthewmayer, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdro-
mou, Gorilla Jones, Roundtheworld, Wobuainile, CarsracBot, Crochet.david.bot, Tony1, Bill-on-the-Hill, Meanbean, Soshial, Andyrom75,
Peacenik, Texugo, Nicholasjf21, WOSlinker, Andy Farrell, Jjtkk, Lo Ximiendo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot,
Flip666, Matroc, Addbot, Armigo, Othello95, Bujatt, 118.93nzp, Pjamescowie, Istanbultravelbook, FTMDave, Flying kiwi and Anony-
mous: 566
• Istanbul/Asian Side Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Asian%20Side?oldid=2680385 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot,
Dguillaume, Sumone10154, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Elgaard, Rumpeltux, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Sigmundur, (WT-en) Barisyil-
maz, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, NeoRetro, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, QuartierLatin1968
and Anonymous: 13
• Istanbul/Bosphorus Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Bosphorus?oldid=2680416 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2,
Dguillaume, Sumone10154, LtPowers, Shaundd, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Elgaard, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Atutuk,
Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Ericentertainer and Anonymous: 20
• Istanbul/Galata Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Galata?oldid=2686292 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136,
Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Shaundd, Vidimian, Inas, Globe-trotter, Elgaard, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays,
(WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Christiantc, (WT-en) Svyatoslav, (WT-en) Maxpax, (WT-en) Tualek7, (WT-en) Jamesdenison, (WT-
en) Atutuk, (WT-en) Yalcinkonuk, (WT-en) Mynameiskaan, (WT-en) Thomasay, (WT-en) Chillout cengo, (WT-en) Matthew.webb.s,
(WT-en) Ritzcarltonisthotel, (WT-en) Alex.f, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inas-
bot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Onerinan, Matroc, Addbot, Armigo, Alpist1 and Anonymous: 38
• Istanbul/Golden Horn Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Golden%20Horn?oldid=2680317 Contributors: Sumone10154,
LtPowers, Vidimian, Elgaard, (WT-en) Tiagox2, (WT-en) Atutuk, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Iba-
man, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Ericentertainer and Anonymous: 4
• Istanbul/New City Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/New%20City?oldid=2685570 Contributors: Jc8136, Dguillaume,
Vidimian, Elgaard, (WT-en) Christiantc, (WT-en) Ijon, (WT-en) Obatus, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Lo Ximiendo, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 8
• Istanbul/Princes’ Islands Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Princes'%20Islands?oldid=2680479 Contributors:
Sumone10154, LtPowers, Vidimian, Elgaard, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Duskromano, (WT-en) Atutuk, (WT-en) Mekem, Ikan Kekek,
The Anome, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Gorilla Jones, Wobuainile, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot,
ZiYouXunLu and Anonymous: 18
• Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old City Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old%20City?oldid=2683703 Contributors:

Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Shaundd, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Elgaard, Saqib, JimDeLaHunt, Ste-
fan2bot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) 74zeus74, (WT-en) Brendonweir, (WT-en) Melbased, (WT-en) Sigmundur,
(WT-en) Rosegarden, (WT-en) Semibreve42, (WT-en) Atutuk, (WT-en) Bensonyeoh, (WT-en) Ritzcarltonisthotel, (WT-en) Istanbulflats,
(WT-en) Sju1776, (WT-en) Samatore, (WT-en) Ati, (WT-en) Soktumbey, (WT-en) Cengizdemirli, (WT-en) Gardenhouse, (WT-en)
Kimdernegi, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Nick-D, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Roundtheworld, Soshial, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inas-
bot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, 118.93nzp, Ericentertainer, Pnaha0, TCDDFan, VinceTraveller and Anonymous: 63
• Istanbul/Western Suburbs Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istanbul/Western%20Suburbs?oldid=2671229 Contributors: Wrh2,
Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Southern Marmara Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Southern%20Marmara?oldid=2663111 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian,
Texugo and Traveler100bot
• Çanakkale Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%87anakkale?oldid=2673138 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Inas, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Aphrodisiac, (WT-en) Ladygroove,
(WT-en) Steppenfox, (WT-en) Cdaemon, (WT-en) IIV, Aude, Koavf, CarsracBot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot,
Pnaha0 and Anonymous: 10
• Armutlu (Marmara) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Armutlu%20(Marmara)?oldid=2652636 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian,
The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Balikesir Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Balikesir?oldid=2534505 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, ClausHansen, The
Anomebot2, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 3
• Bandirma Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bandirma?oldid=2301545 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The Anome-
bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Bozcaada Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bozcaada?oldid=2673142 Contributors: Cjensen, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian,
(WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Gsaykan, Ikan Kekek, NJR ZA, LilHelpa,
Texugo, Lo Ximiendo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 24
• Bursa Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bursa?oldid=2663245 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Panos, (WT-en) Tomkat, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN,
(WT-en) Rodski68, (WT-en) Bunyaminvicil, (WT-en) Marti, (WT-en) Aymerkez, (WT-en) Berkantgultekin, (WT-en) Pc copate, (WT-
en) Bursa1994, (WT-en) Birisigenc, (WT-en) Daylarogers, Eco84, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou,
Wobuainile, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, ZiYouXunLu,
Adbar and Anonymous: 27
• Erdek Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Erdek?oldid=2301548 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Burmesedays, The
• Gönen Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/G%C3%B6nen?oldid=2408357 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Boogeyman,
The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Matroc
• Gemlik Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Gemlik?oldid=2650052 Contributors: Sertmann, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Hayzem,
(WT-en) Aymerkez, The Anomebot2, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Geyikli Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Geyikli?oldid=2568175 Contributors: Pbsouthwood, Vidimian and CarsracBot
• Kumla (Turkey) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kumla%20(Turkey)?oldid=2540169 Contributors: Vidimian, (WT-en) Hayzem,
CarsracBot, Yvwv, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
• Sindirgi Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sindirgi?oldid=2301553 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inasbot,
Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Troy (Turkey) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Troy%20(Turkey)?oldid=2643549 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Lt-
Powers, Vidimian, Pashley, Cacahuate, Saqib, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Steppenfox, (WT-en) Af, The
Anomebot2, Sapphire, Cybersuezee, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Pnaha0 and Anonymous: 6
• Uludağ Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Uluda%C4%9F?oldid=2647283 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Ste-
fan2bot, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 5
• Marmara Islands Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Marmara%20Islands?oldid=2404791 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Sert-
mann, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Xltel, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
• Avsa Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Avsa?oldid=2398607 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Ikan
Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4
• Marmara (island) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Marmara%20(island)?oldid=2301558 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Pe-
terfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Adegirmenci, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot
• Mediterranean Turkey Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mediterranean%20Turkey?oldid=2404870 Contributors: Cjensen, Peter-
fitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Tsandell, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-
en) Jnich99, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) GF, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-en) Eiland, Sumone’s bot, Crochet.david.bot,
Quintucket, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Addbot and Anonymous: 11
• Cilician Mountains Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cilician%20Mountains?oldid=2651658 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot,
Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, This, that and the other, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc
and Anonymous: 1
• Anamur Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Anamur?oldid=2547944 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Pashley, Stefan2bot, This, that and the other, Lambiam, The Anomebot2, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ad-
dbot and Anonymous: 1
• Aydincik Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Aydincik?oldid=2301566 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anome-
bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1
• Narlıkuyu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Narl%C4%B1kuyu?oldid=2547973 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anome-

bot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Silifke Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Silifke?oldid=2350567 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, The
• Tasucu Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tasucu?oldid=2301569 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Travelbird, (WT-en) Energyworm, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Cilician Plains Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cilician%20Plains?oldid=2548381 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Stefan2bot, Texugo and Traveler100bot
• Adana Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Adana?oldid=2557251 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Dguillaume, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Rouge, (WT-en) Scemil, (WT-en) Reifier, (WT-en) Cityoto, (WT-
en) Justem, (WT-en) Vazgec, Ikan Kekek, The wub, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, CarsracBot, Seligne, Quintucket, WOSlinker,
Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 29
• Incirlik Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Incirlik?oldid=2301571 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Trav-
eler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2
• Mersin Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mersin?oldid=2643491 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, (WT-en) Morph,
(WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Mr. Poopyface, (WT-en) KHanTW, (WT-en) Gocebe, The Anomebot2,
LilHelpa, Eminonuk, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 12
• Tarsus Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tarsus?oldid=2407696 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Sertmann, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Elelicht, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 3
• Hatay Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Hatay?oldid=2301561 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) KEREMCANN, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot
and Anonymous: 7
• Antakya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Antakya?oldid=2575530 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Jc8136, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) SnappyHip, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) KEREMCANN, (WT-en) Max harwood, (WT-en)
Onurezer, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Massimo Telò, CarsracBot, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Smokestack Basilisk and
Anonymous: 20
• Iskenderun Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Iskenderun?oldid=2626937 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Burmesedays, The Anomebot2, Quintucket, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 3
• Lakes District Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lakes%20District?oldid=2614332 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian and Trav-
eler100bot
• Akşehir Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ak%C5%9Fehir?oldid=2487248 Contributors: Vidimian, Pashley, CarsracBot, Quin-
tucket, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Addbot and Smokestack Basilisk
• Burdur Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Burdur?oldid=2637387 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
KHanTW, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Smokestack Basilisk
• Lycia Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lycia?oldid=2647710 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Xltel, The Anome-
bot2, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot and Matroc
• Beldibi Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Beldibi?oldid=2553269 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Enigmasss, (WT-en)
Fitek, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 1
• Dalaman Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dalaman?oldid=2534575 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Morph,
(WT-en) Cempasha, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Andy Farrell, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 6
• Dalyan Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dalyan?oldid=2597732 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, DenisYurkin, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Inas, Jonboy, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Pirci2, (WT-en) Zebercet, (WT-en) BahausResortDalyan, Ikan Kekek, The
Anomebot2, NJR ZA, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Caunos and Anonymous: 12
• Demre Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Demre?oldid=2561864 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot,
(WT-en) Burmesedays, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1
• Elmali Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Elmali?oldid=2486690 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Xltel, (WT-en) Cormac, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Smokestack Basilisk
• Faralya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Faralya?oldid=2539684 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Rumpeltux, (WT-en)
TROUBADOUR, (WT-en) Derya, (WT-en) OpenIDUser146, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anony-
mous: 2
• Fethiye Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Fethiye?oldid=2638802 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzger-
ald, Jc8136, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Rumpeltux, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-
en) Remboman, (WT-en) Cheesemaster200, (WT-en) JuCo, (WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Newozzorder, (WT-en) Kultura, (WT-en)
Jacqui.kelleher, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Glaisher, Matroc and Anonymous: 31
• Göcek Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/G%C3%B6cek?oldid=2648380 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, The Anomebot2, Inas-
bot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1
• Kabak Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kabak?oldid=2681000 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Rumpeltux, (WT-en) Ernierasta,
Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Svdubl and Anonymous: 3
• Kalkan Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kalkan?oldid=2636163 Contributors: Cjensen, Sertmann, LtPowers, Vidimian, Tsandell,
(WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Monique1111, (WT-en) Imuhdjen, (WT-en) Patti, (WT-en) Vexaar, (WT-en) Uht
turkey, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Matroc, Botnic and Anonymous: 20
• Kayaköy Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kayak%C3%B6y?oldid=2615163 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, The
Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1
• Kaş Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ka%C5%9F?oldid=2645325 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, DenisYurkin,

LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en)
Monique1111, (WT-en) Neil C, (WT-en) Kayboldum01, (WT-en) Hobbittr, (WT-en) Cempasha, (WT-en) Baron Munchbunch, (WT-
en) Robespierrefb, (WT-en) Eflatun, Ikan Kekek, Rapsar, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot,
Tylcole, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 19
• Kemer Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kemer?oldid=2553271 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-
en) Enigmasss, (WT-en) Lkarsten, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 2
• Kınık Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/K%C4%B1n%C4%B1k?oldid=2542860 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Saqib,
Stefan2bot, Elelicht, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Addbot
• Marmaris Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Marmaris?oldid=2642555 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Wrh2, Peter-
fitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Xltel, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-
en) The Yeti, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) Adestro, (WT-en) CoonCat89, (WT-en) By ram, (WT-en) Ozbayraktar, Ikan Kekek, Elelicht,
The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Crochet.david.bot, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Addbot, Dubravko and Anonymous: 56
• Ölüdeniz Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C3%96l%C3%BCdeniz?oldid=2638426 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Rumpel-
tux, (WT-en) Hadsie, (WT-en) By ram, Koavf, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, DragonflySixtyseven, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot,
Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4
• Olympos (Turkey) Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Olympos%20(Turkey)?oldid=2644339 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot,
Cjensen, LtPowers, Vidimian, JimDeLaHunt, RegentsPark, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Mita, (WT-en) Porknog, (WT-en) Yigitsahinbey,
(WT-en) Iaydinlar, Elelicht, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 16
• Pamphylia Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pamphylia?oldid=2561338 Contributors: Cjensen, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, (WT-en) Ademrock, Traveler100, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot and Anonymous: 3
• Alanya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Alanya?oldid=2670442 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPow-
ers, Vidimian, Pashley, Tsandell, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en)
Tay, (WT-en) Aidan, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Sapphire, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Eventus and Anonymous: 16
• Antalya Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Antalya?oldid=2649269 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Wrh2, Sertmann, Pe-
terfitzgerald, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, DenisYurkin, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Cacahuate,
Xltel, Saqib, Rumpeltux, Rogerhc, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) In-
terLangBot, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Aidan, (WT-en) Adestro, (WT-en) Pippo, (WT-en) Jforman, (WT-en)
SolarMcPanel, (WT-en) Ademrock, (WT-en) Akcakaya, (WT-en) Kellymac, (WT-en) Enigmasss, Ajraddatz, Ikan Kekek, Abstraktn, The
Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Marek69, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Erwan.L, Wrh2Bot, StellarD, Matroc, Addbot, Ariassos,
Hordaland, Dominikkrebs and Anonymous: 93
• Belek Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Belek?oldid=2567586 Contributors: Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en)
Ademrock, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4
• Manavgat Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Manavgat?oldid=2601290 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Stefan2bot, (WT-en)
Davidbstanley, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot
• Side Source: http://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Side?oldid=2615188 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers,
Vidimian, Pashley, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 6
209.12.2 Images
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Cebeci
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Turkey Travel Guide

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3.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

6.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

30 Central Aegean 103

30.7.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

33.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

36.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

38.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

41.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

44 Northern Aegean 134

44.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

50.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

53.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

55 Southern Aegean 155

56.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157

58.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

67 Black Sea Turkey 184

68 Central Karadeniz 186

72.5.1 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195

75 Eastern Karadeniz 200

75.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

81.1.1 Tourist oﬃce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

82 Western Karadeniz 216

83.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

87 Ilgaz National Park 222

87.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

89.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

92 Central Anatolia 232

95.4 See and Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

98.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248

99.8.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

103.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

113Marmara (region) 299

113.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

114Bursa Province 302

115Eastern Marmara 303

121Eastern Thrace 318

121.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322

134Marmara Ereğlisi 353

134.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354

138Şarköy District 369

139Istanbul Atatürk Airport 371

139.3Ground transportation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371

141.4.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381

142Istanbul/Asian Side 398

142.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400

145Istanbul/Golden Horn 420

146Istanbul/New City 423

147Istanbul/Princes’ Islands 426

148Istanbul/Sultanahmet-Old City 431

148.4.1 Around Sultanahmet Square . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433

149Istanbul/Western Suburbs 447

149.8.1 Caravan park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

150Southern Marmara 451

152Armutlu (Marmara) 456

156.5.1 Turkish Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470

161Kumla (Turkey) 481

163Troy (Turkey) 483

165Marmara Islands 491

167Marmara (island) 495

167.3Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495

168Mediterranean Turkey 497

169Cilician Mountains 501

169.6Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503