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DOI: 10.1080/15569520701622951
Peter Elsner
Klinik Fur Dermatologic, Jena, Germany
Howard I. Maibach
University of California, Department of Dermatology, San Francisco,
California, USA
Keywords: Aging population; Aging skin; Barrier function; Collagen; Dermis; Elastin; Skin thickness
INTRODUCTION
In 1900, life expectancy in the United States was just 50 years, with only 4% of
the American population over the age of 65 (1). By the year 2000 (largely due to
better diet and medical care) (2) that percentage had tripled, with life expectancy
currently averaging 77.6 years overall (2) (Figure 1). It is predicted that life expect-
ancy in the U.S. and other industrialized countries will continue to increase, hitting
100 years by about 2025 (3). Women, with longer average life expectancies than men,
can expect to spend more than one-third of their lifetimes in menopause (4). As the
aged population continues to increase in numbers, the various implications of
cutaneous aging will increase in medical importance.
Address correspondence to M. A. Farage, Ph.D., The Procter and Gamble Company, Winton Hill
Business Center, 6110 Center Hill Road, Box 136, Cincinnati, OH 45224, USA. Tel.: +1 513 634 5594;
Fax: +1 513 634 7364; E-mail: farage.m@pg.com
343
344 M. A. FARAGE ET AL.
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Figure 1 Mean life expectancy in the United States by year from the National Vital Statistics Report
(NVSS) from the Centers for Disease Control, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. November
10, 2004.
must shift from cosmetic interventions to improving morbidity and quality of life for
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this growing segment of the population (11). The structural changes of the aging skin
will be discussed in this article, whereas the physiological changes and lifestyle influ-
ences on the skin will be reviewed separately.
Epidermis
The epidermis (the external skin surface), although widely variable, typically
measures 50 mm to 100 mmin thickness (14). This layer contains primarily keratino-
cytes, with smaller populations of Langerhans cells and melanocytes (Figure 2)
(11). Although slight variation is reported in the literature, the keratinocyte popu-
lation in the epidermis is completely replaced approximately every 30 days (15).
The epidermis is a dynamic system whose metabolic activity is largely regulated
by the integrity of the permeability barrier (11), which is responsible for maintaining
the fine balance between clinically normal and dry skin (8). This function resides in
the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (16). The stratum corneum
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Dermis
The dermis, 2 to 3 mm in thickness, is a layer composed predominantly of con-
nective tissue and blood vessels, that comprises the main bulk of the skin (4) (Figure 2),
supports the epidermis, and binds it to the hypodermis (12). Dermal connective tissue
contains elastin and collagen; collagen fibers comprise the biggest volume of the skin
and the bulk of its tensile strength (4), whereas elastin fibers contribute to elasticity
and resilience (4). The dermis also contains nerve fibers, sensory receptors, hyaluronic
acid (responsible for normal turgor of dermis because of extraordinary water-holding
capacity), and supportive glycosaminoglycans (GAG) (4).
Hypodermis
Below the dermis is the hypodermis, a layer of loose connective tissue that
binds the skin to internal organs. This layer contains subcutaneous fat as well as are-
olar tissue, providing cushioning, thermoregulation, and skin stability by connecting
dermis to internal organs (18).
decreases about 6.4% per decade (19,23), and decreases even faster in females.
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Dermal thickness also decreases, but at the same rate in both genders (8).
Epidermal Changes
Cell numbers in the epidermis are reduced in older adults (24). Keratinocytes,
as skin ages, change shape, becoming shorter and fatter (24) whereas corneocytes in
aged skin become bigger as a result of decreased epidermal turnover (21,25). Epider-
mal turnover time is increased in aged skin (6,18).
Enzymatically active melanocytes decrease at a rate of 8% to 20% per decade,
resulting in uneven pigmentation in elderly skin (26). A parallel decrease in the num-
ber of Langerhan’s cells leads to impairment of cutaneous immunity (26). An atypia
in cells of the basal layer is also observed (19) Although the number of sweat glands
does not change, sebum production decreases (26) whereas a reduction of the natural
water and fat emulsion on the skin is observed (27). Water content in aged dry skin,
particularly in the stratum corneum, is lower than that of younger skin (8,9,11).
Aging skin dries, with a greater tendency to xerosis (9). Changes in the amino acid
composition in aged skin (8) also reduce the amount of cutaneous natural moisturiz-
ing factor (NMF), thereby decreasing its water binding ability (11).
Barrier Function
Because permeability barrier function in aging epidermis does not appear to be
impaired under basal conditions, it has been generally assumed that barrier function
does not alter significantly with aging (28). Baseline transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), however, decreases with age (9,28) an observation believed to be due to
the reduction of the water content of aged skin. In other words, the elderly lose less
because they have less water to lose. The authors of this study did not, however,
adjust results for mass (28). Recovery of baseline TEWL values after occlusion is
slower in older skin (9).
Further studies revealed that aged skin was much more easily disrupted by
tape-stripping than was younger skin (28), requiring only 18 strippings in individuals
over 80 years of age as compared to 31 strippings in young and middle-aged adults.
Recovery of barrier function in the aged subjects was also dramatically different.
Only 15% of those older than 80 had recovered barrier function at 24 h, compared
to 50% of the younger group (28). Artificially induced water gradients (such as pro-
duced by occlusion) were shown to dissipate more slowly in older skin than in
younger (11), with occluded older skin having a significantly higher TEWL than
younger skin as well (11). Depending on the compound and the anatomic site eval-
uated, significant differences in barrier permeability have been observed (23).
The findings reveal a profound change in barrier integrity even though barrier
function under normal conditions appears normal. Baseline TEWL measurements
then, because they do not reflect actual functional status, can be misleading (28).
A lack of functional reserve is exposed when the epidermal permeability barrier is
under stress (28). Interestingly, one study found that with the drying skin character-
istic of intrinsic aging, TEWL and the water content of the stratum corneum drop in
STRUCTURAL CHANGES OF AGING SKIN 349
corneum water content stays low. In stripped skin, both values increase (29).
Lipid Composition
Although the lipid composition of the aged skin is not significantly altered, the
global lipid content of the aged skin is reduced (14,28). Total lipid content in aged
skin decreased as much as 65% (24). An age-related decrease in the amount of lipid
in the stratum corneum was also observed as well (9). An age-related decrease in the
sterol ester and triglyceride fraction of stratum corneum lipids was also observed (9).
Also, histological studies reveal that the number of papillae per area decreases dra-
matically (27), from an average of 40 in young skin, down to 14 papillae=mm2 in
those aged over 65 (30).
Dermal–Epidermal Junction
The most reproducible structural change in aged skin is a flattening of the
dermal–epidermal junction occurring as a result of rarification and reduction of
dermal papillae (30).This flattening, seen in scanning electron images at about the
sixth decade (19), creates a thinner epidermis primarily because of retraction of rete
pegs (19), leading to an increase in the minimal thickness of epidermis with a concur-
rent decrease in maximum thickness (18,20). As a result, the dermal–epidermal
junction flattens by 35% (18,20).
The flattened dermal–epidermal junction, with its reduced interdigitation
between layers, results in less resistance to shearing forces and an increased vulner-
ability to insult (21). The smaller contiguous surface between the two layers creates
reduced communication between the dermis and epidermis and a reduced cellular
supply of nutrients and oxygen (18,30). Flattening also may be associated with
decreased potential for proliferation and may affect percutaneous absorption (19).
The flattening of the dermal–epidermal junction also increases the potential for
dermo-epidermal separation, facilitating wrinkle formation (21), a process that may
be a mechanism by which wrinkles form (18,30).
Dermal Changes
Dermal thickness decreases with age (19), with a decrease in vascularity and
cellularity (31). The perception of pressure and light touch stimuli also decreases,
due to a degeneration of pacinian and Meissner’s corpuscles. There is also a decrease
in the number of mast cells and fibroblasts (31). The amount of glycosaminoglycans
in the dermis declines with age (18,30), as does the amount of hyaluronic acid pro-
duced by fibroblasts (18,30) and the amount of interfibrillary ground substance (32).
Skin stiffness remains fairly constant until it decreases in the eighth decade of
life (33). Aging, however, is inevitably associated with a decrease in collagen turn-
over (due to a decrease in fibroblasts and their collagen synthesis) as well as elastin
(31). Elastin also has higher degree of calcification in aged skin, with an associated
degradation of elastin fibers (22). Collagen cross-links stabilize, whereas collagen
bundles become disorganized (31).
350 M. A. FARAGE ET AL.
decreased torsion extensibility (6,18) and diminished elasticity (4,8) (eroding faster
in females than in males) (8), with a concomitant increase in vulnerability to tear-
type injuries (6,18). Recovery from mechanical depression, in fact, is dramatically
altered; observed in only minutes in young skin, but requiring more than 24 h in skin
of aged individuals (6,18).
Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) and optical coherence tomogra-
phy (OCT) provides in vivo, cross-sectional images of skin layers. Images of aged
skin display a definite decrease in the maximal thickness of the epidermis as well
as a flattening of the dermal–epidermal junction (18,20). Below the basal layer,
CLSM showed a reflecting layer of fibrous structure (18,20). The location of the
layer was strongly associated with age, found much deeper in younger than in older
skin (18,20). OCT also showed a bright reflecting age-associated fibrous layer in the
dermis, believed to be the same layer, which may be a transition between papillary
and reticular dermis (18,20).
Ultrasound echogenicity revealed that although overall dermal echogenicity
decreases with age (19) there is a regional enhancement in lower dermis echogenicity,
called the dermal echogenic band (DEB), that thins with aging (19). In addition, a
subdermal low echogenic band (SLEB or SENEB), not seen in young skin, was
observed in aged individuals. This band increased in width in proportion to
age and sun exposure and was found to correspond to an area histologically
defined as elastoic, in a region especially prone to accumulate increased amounts
of water (19).
Hypodermal Changes
The overall volume of subcutaneous fat typically diminishes with age, although
the proportion of body fat increases until approximately age 70. Fat distribution
changes as well; that in the face, hands, and feet decreases whereas a relative increase
is observed in the thighs, waist, and abdomen. These changes, while possibly increas-
ing thermoregulatory function by further insulating organs, decrease the cushioning
function in the extremities, which leads to an increased risk of bedsores or podiatric
problems (26).
Thinning of epidermis and dermis Increased vulnerability to mechanical Increased incidence of skin tears
trauma, especially shearing and friction
Flattening of dermal papillae Increased risk of blister formation Increased susceptibility of infection
Slowdown in turnover rate of epidermis; Delayed cellular migration and proliferation Increased time to re-epithelialization
decrease of ratio of proliferative to Longer healing times after
differentiated keratinocytes injury or surgery
Decreased wound contraction Longer healing times after
injury or surgery
Decrease in elastin fibers in horny layer Loss of elasticity Lax skin, wrinkling, with loss of
self-esteem and=or depression
Decrease in vascularity and supporting Blood vessels fragile, easily broken Skin easily bruised (Senile purpura)
351
structures in dermis
Decreased wound capillary growth Increased risk of wound dehiscence
Decrease in vascular plexus, blunted Loss of thermoregulatory ability Hypothermia, heat stroke
capillary loops
Changes in and loss of collagen Decreased tensile strength, lower layers more Increased risk of pressure damage
and elastin fibers susceptible to injury to elderly skin, decubitus ulcers
Delayed collagen remodeling Longer healing times after injury
or surgery
Impaired immune response Impaired inflammatory response Increased risk of severe injury
from irritants
Impaired delayed hypersensitivity reaction Increased risk of severe injury
from irritants
(Continued)
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Table 2. Continued
352
Atrophy of sweat glands Decreased sweating Less ability to thermoregulate, Hypothermia
Dry skin, xerosis
Reduced stratum corneum lipids Decreased water-holding capacity Dry skin, xerosis
Structural changes in stratum corneum Altered barrier function Variable response to topical medications, altered
sensitivity to irritants
Reduced water movement from Decreased hydration of epidermis Dry skin, xerosis
dermis to epidermis
Table summarizes findings from Boss & Seegmiller (55), Baranowski (56), Fletcher (57), Gilchrest (58), and Haroun (59)
STRUCTURAL CHANGES OF AGING SKIN 353
of treatment (35). Safety concerns with any medication are accentuated in the
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elderly, due to the more fragile nature of their integument, the tendency for pro-
longed use in chronic skin conditions, the possibility of drug eruptions (39), and
the probability of polypharmacy in this population (38). Stronger medications
should be chosen only when therapeutic benefit justifies the risk (40).
Contact dermatitis is common in the elderly population (41), particularly
allergy-type reactions (42). Reduced ability to mount a delayed-type hypersensitivity
reaction (43) in the elderly decreases individual susceptibility to allergic contact
sensitivity due to a reduction in numbers of Langerhans cells (44), decreased T-cells,
and diminished vascular reactivity (43). However, decades of potential sensitization
(39) and an increased level of exposure maintains a presence of allergic contact
sensitivity in the geriatric population (44,45). The most common culprit in allergic
contact sensitivity is topical medications (46), in fact, as much as 81% of patients
being treated for chronic leg ulcers exhibit allergic reactions to topical medications
(44). Patch testing before the use of topical medications may be beneficial, especially
within high-risk populations like those being treated for dermatitis or ulceration
of the lower extremities (39). Testing should include medicaments and dressings,
as well as dental prostheses and medications for ocular disease (39). In the aged,
generalized allergic rash is far more likely to be due to medicines than to be food-
related (39). Occasionally an agent increases the patient’s sensitivity to the sun in
a phototoxic (photoirritant) reaction, or produces a hypersensitivity reaction upon
sun exposure (46).
ANTI-AGING THERAPIES
Estrogen Replacement Therapy (ERT)
The advent of ERT for menopausal women has documented clearly the pro-
found influence of endogenous estrogen on the skin. Exogenous estrogen, adminis-
tered to postmenopausal women, has demonstrated the ability to reverse or prevent
many of the processes of intrinsic skin aging.
In clinical trials, women on ERT consistently had greater skin thickness than
those not using ERT (4). A cross-sectional study using diagnostic ultrasound demon-
strated that the use of ERT normalized skin thickness levels to premenopause levels
(4). Although the increase in skin thickness was credited to an increase in dermal
connective tissue rather than epidermis, topically applied estradiol cream was shown
to produce an increase in epidermal thickness of 23% as well as a normalization of
rete peg patterns (4).
The reduction in dermal collagen associated with postmenopausal estrogen
declines is believed to be the main component of the skin atrophy that occurs with
aging, with a 30% loss in collagen occurring over the first five menopausal years (4).
Numerous studies, reviewed by Hall (2004) and Brincat (2005) and colleagues, have
demonstrated an increase in the collagen content of the dermis with the use of
exogenous estrogen replacement, with increases as substantial as 6.5% (4,47).
Studies have also demonstrated improvements in elasticity and skin laxity with
ERT, as well as substantial improvement in wrinkling, at least in women who did
not smoke (47).
354 M. A. FARAGE ET AL.
CONCLUSION
Despite the numerous and profound changes that occur over a skin’s lifetime,
the human integument remains relatively functional, particularly when protected
from environmental insult. Compared to youthful skin, however, the skin of older
subjects is compromised in many ways (9). Structural changes lead to undesirable
visible characteristics as well as a decreased elasticity and resilience, leaving the aged
skin susceptible to injury and disease.
As the population of the industrialized world continues to age, increased atten-
tion to the problems of aged skin, cosmetic and beyond, will improve the quality of
life in those years gained by previous medical accomplishments.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The authors are grateful to Drs. S. McClanahan, Randy Nunn, Keith Ertel,
Don Bissett, and Joe Kaczvinsky for the critical review of this manuscript, to
Ms. Zeinab Schwen and Ms. Wendy Wippel (Strategic Regulatory Consulting,
STRUCTURAL CHANGES OF AGING SKIN 355
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