handcrafted techniques and designs for

custom jewelry components

wire findings
denis e pe ck
j ane dick e r son
 decorative balls toggle clasp

ma t e r i a ls + t ools

• Spool of 12-gauge fine silver

dead-soft wire
• Spool of 18-gauge fine
silver wire
• Spool of 14-gauge fine silver
dead-soft wire
• Ring mandrel
• Flush cutters
• File
• Fireproof work surface
• Blazer micro torch
• Soldering block
• Fusing pliers
• Quenching bowl
• Ball-peen hammer
• Steel bench block
• Rawhide or nylon mallet
• Toothpick
• Honey or flux
• Tweezers Use wire in a whole new way in this clasp:
• Liver of sulfur
• Rotary tumbler with mixed
first create small silver spheres, then fuse
stainless steel shot them to a handmade ring and toggle for a
Finished size: Ring: 7⁄8" (21.5 mm); three-dimensional finish.
Toggle: 1⁄8" x 1¾" (3 x 35 mm)

2 handcr a f t ed w i r e f indings
 ring Fig.3

1W
 orking from the spool of 12-gauge wire, wrap the wire
around the size 6 mark on the ring mandrel to make a
jump ring (Fig. 1). Flush cut and file the ends of the wire
so they meet with no gap.

Fig.1

Fig.4

2 P
 lace the ring on the soldering block and light the
torch. Holding the torch about 1½" (3.8 cm) from the
ring, rotate the flame around the ring in a circle, slowly
heating the whole surface. When the ring glows,
concentrate the flame on the join until it flows together
(Fig. 2). Turn off the torch. Use fusing pliers to dip the
ring in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry.

Fig.2

3 If necessary, reshape the ring on the mandrel using a

rawhide or nylon mallet (Fig. 3).

4 U
 se the ball-peen hammer and bench block to hammer
the ring flat (Fig. 4). Set aside.

de cor a t i ve ba l ls t oggl e cl asp 3

 balls Fig.7

5 C
 ut the 18-gauge wire into five 3⁄ 8" (1 cm) snippets.
Spread the pieces out on the soldering block (Fig. 5).
Light the torch and heat the pieces until each forms a
ball (Fig. 6). Turn off the torch. Use the fusing pliers to dip
each ball in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry.

Fig.5

Fig.6 Fig.8

6 P
 lace the ring from Step 4 on the soldering block. Use
the toothpick to place 3 drops of honey or flux on the
flattened ring where you would like the balls to be
attached (Fig. 7). Use tweezers to place the balls on the
honey or flux (Fig. 8).
7 L
 ight the torch. Starting with a medium flame and the
torch about 4" (10 cm) from the ring, rotate the flame
around the ring to gently heat the entire surface. If a ball
falls off the ring, replace it and begin again. When the
flux or honey stops bubbling, move the torch closer to

4 handcr a f t ed w i r e f indings
 Fig.9 Fig.10

Fig.11

the ring and rotate it around the ring until both the ring
and the balls glow. Keep the torch moving until the ring
and balls fuse together (Fig. 9). Be careful not to hold the
flame too close to the balls or they will completely melt
into the ring. Turn off the torch. Use fusing pliers to dip
the ring in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry. File any
burs, if necessary.

Fig.12
toggle

8W
 orking from the spool of 14-gauge wire, flush cut the
end, then grasp the wire 1" (2.5 cm) from the end with
the tip of the round-nose pliers. Wrap both sides of the
wire around the jaw, crossing them until they form a
straight bar (Fig. 10). Cut the wire off the spool, leaving
5
⁄8" (1.5 cm) from the loop. Trim the other side of the bar to
the same length.
end of one paddle where you want to attach a ball
9 U
 se the hammer and bench block to flatten each end (Fig. 12). Use tweezers to place the ball on the drop of
of the toggle into a paddle (Fig. 11). Use the file to round honey. Light the torch. Starting with the torch about 4"
each end. (10 cm) from the toggle, gently heat the ball end of the
toggle. When the flux or honey stops bubbling, move the
10 Use fusing pliers to dig a trough in the soldering block torch closer to the toggle and move it back and forth
to hold the loop of the toggle bar flat on the block. Using until both the paddle and the ball glow. Keep the torch
a toothpick, place a tiny drop of honey or flux near the moving until the paddle and ball fuse together.

de cor a t i ve ba l ls t oggl e cl asp 5

 gallery

Kidney Ea r Wires Lasso Link

As i an Toggl e Cl asp Wired Ring Link

Ba l l-end H ook and Eye Cl asp Hamme red Ring Conne c t or

6 handcr a f t ed w i r e f indings
 cont ent s

Introduction S C l a s ps : :
Wire Basics Hammered S Clasp
Tools Ball-End Hammered S Clasp
Techniques Ball-End Textured S Clasp
S Clasp with Bead
Findings
E a r Wi r e s : : H oo k C l a s ps : :
Circle Loop Ear Wires Ball-End Hook and Eye Clasp
Kidney Ear Wires Oversized Wrapped Simple Hook
Double-Loop French Ear Wires Vine Hook
Beaded French Ear Wires Double Hook and Eye Clasp
Tumbleweed French Ear Wires
Fiddlehead Ear Wires Togg l e C l a s ps : :
Vine Ear Wires Hammered Toggle Clasp
Circle Post Ear Wires Asian Toggle Clasp
Spiral Post Ear Wires Twisted Toggle Clasp
Ball-End Toggle Clasp
L i n k s & C onn e c t or s : : Lashed Toggle Clasp
Fused Oval Link Decorative Balls Toggle Clasp
Decorative Fused Ring
Hammered Ring Connector M i s c e l l a n e ous : :
Sailor’s Knot Link Ribbon Bail
Wired Ring Link Knot Spacer
Twisted Link with Bead Tumbleweed Spacer
Textured Corkscrew Link
Stick Link Resources
Lasso Link Index
Figure-Eight Link
Yin-Yang Link
Sa i lor s Knot Link

Hamme red S Cl asp Twis t ed Link wi t h Be ad

ga l l e r y 7
add personal style at minimal cost
with custom-made findings

Why spend hundreds of dollars stocking up on expensive manufactured

clasps, jump rings, ear wires, bails, and more when you can make exactly what
you need for a fraction of the cost? Making custom findings enables jewelry
makers to affordably create just the right component to complement their own
jewelry designs.

With fundamental skills for beginners that progress to more sophisticated

designs, Handcrafted Wire Findings covers techniques such as basic wirework,
texturizing, silver fusing, adding patina, and traditional finishes.

Included are over 30 projects for making custom wire findings, each
accompanied by step-by-step photographs and directions to ensure success.

Denise Peck is the editor of Step by Step Wire Jewelry magazine. She is also
the author of the best-selling books 101 Wire Earrings and Wire Style and the
forthcoming Wire Style 2. She lives in Pennsylvania.

Jane Dickerson was the editor of Creative Jewelry magazine and is the author
of Chain Style.

Paperback
8½ x 9, 128 pages
ISBN 978-1-59668-283-2
$22.95
Available June 2011