Hobbyist - Enthusiasts The unsung heroes end heroines of archeology ‘There is a bit of Indiana Jones in all of us hoping to make significant finds. This intense passion for archedlogy is not restricted to professionals but shared by many hobbyist and enthusiasts ‘who work full ime or part time or have retired from fields like teaching, senior management, ‘Accounting, Information Technology, Corporate governance and consultancy. They work with the professionals, tour the lesser known temples and ruins take high resolution pictures shere it vith fellow enthusiasts on social media and enrich the overall knowledge through sharing resources. “These unpaid foot soldiers for preservation of ancient Indian heritage have day jobs as teachers journalist IT professionals. In their spare time they devote energy and monetary resources they show exceptional zeal in discovering new inscriptions deciphering locating hero stones stone circles or rock cut caves and rock arts. Since they are enthusiasts they get paid nothing for the efforts and actually spend their personal resources. Those who publish books do it at their own cost. Iwas very fortunate to meet and spend a whole day in the company one such couple _Sh \Veeraragnavan and Smt Mangaiyarkarasi Raghavan (V\vno | will refer as Ragavan and Mangai in this write up) recently while exploring the different temples of Perumbakkam village in \Villupuram. Two of much watered down stone inscriptions had to be studied and enstamped and ‘our mutual friend and acquaintance Sh Sukavanam Murugan advised me to take guidance from the couple who knew \illupuram surrounds like the palm of the hands. | am still so grateful to them for coming forward to help a totally unknown person. This was @ real taste of hands on locating identifying recording interesting finds. Our first stop was the appropriately the Sapthamatha temple at Venkatesapuram very close to Perumbakkam. The rather plain looking temple with picture of Balamurugan and Genepathi gave No clue of the gorgeous Pallava Saptamatrikas inside. The full set of seven mothers were ‘flanked on either side by Veerabhadra/Ayyaner and Pallava Ganapathi. Straight away both Raghavan Sir and Magai Madam got to work The rectangular building with a narrow entrance meant that other than magnificent centerpiece of Vaishnavi hardly any light was available for the rest of the eight figures, But the icons were neaity cleaned with oil and cloth and pictured. All the while | was geting a lecture on the Saptamatrikas their order weapons mounts type ornaments and head gear and so on. After putting everything back in order and lightning the terracotta lamps we moved to Perumbekkam. After a quick Darshan at the family temple of Sri Vedantachariar at Perumbakkam we visited the Kailasanatha Temple that was a few houses away in the same row. ‘The Kailasanatha temple samidhi were closed early being in the holy month of Dhanurmasam. But one look at the outer wall construction showed a mixture of Karungal stones in a modem, mortar binding. The Shiva temple was west facing as against the traditional east facing. Thebvious conclusion was the deities must have been relocated from the fallen temple elsewhere. Itis only when shifting the deities are at 180 degrees rotated form. Right away we hit the jackoot with a free standing carving in stone - an early Pallava bes relief Murugan seated on lotus. A small standing lady goddess was next to him. As also a very ancient elephant looking sculpture. Raghaven sir got very excited and questioned the lady who was drying husked rice in the temple. She thought it was Chandikeswarer. \\e took pleasure in explaining thet the carving was at least 1200 years old. As we did the pradekshinam we came across another Pallava Murugan passing off as Chandikeswarar in an enclosed space. Mangai madam wes busy taking pictures in her mobile as well as SLR Camera, There was Vinayaga in the Goshta behind Stiva. In the next bend two classic lions. Pellava influence or nayek restoration ( have seen similar lion in ‘Triolicane Sr Parthasarathy Perumal temple). The Nandeeswarar for the south facing Ambal ‘was of good size installed at the height in front of a Stone Work Jaali or lattice installed in a modem masonry. The Nandeeswerar in front of the main deity was quite small in size yet well bedecked and had tumed his head facing North Our next stop was at Sri Verkata Varadarajar temle which is the main Perumal Kcil of Perumbakkam. This one at least 800 years old based on the main vigraham. Outside the temple very traditional stone column Dwaja Stambhem with carvings of Hanuman and Garuda at the base. Raghavan ji was quickly noting the inscription at the base of the stone flag post which he had already read. The copper plate inscriptions on indoor caja Stambham at least two hundred years old and noted another stone inscriation at the ceiling, Onward to the Kulathangarai Srinivaser temple where two stone inscriptions had to be enstamped. Vie had a quick darshan of the temple and prayed to Periya Thituvaci Garudar and Perumal. There is a tiny pillayer Sanniahi about 8 to 10 nagaes behind the temple and the two stone inscriptions in the sides. Ragavan ji took us to the fields where there was @ early Pallave Thawvai seated like a fertility goddess. Another IVurugan / Laguieeswerer relief sculpture standing in the open. The women ving nearby curiously watched us cleaning the sculpture and clicking asking for the prayer days for Thavvai. And then one of them remarked ten years back two people came on scooter and clicked the sculpture and identified her as Mootha Devi. Raghavan Sir remarked see my face carefully. And the lady replied yes it was you. That was funny. “The next four hours were spent in intense hands on archeological experience. The first one was toreach the Grove of the Sapthamatrikes of Perumbakkam. Thala Thalli Ammen the villagers tdld, We moved carefully on the bunds of the green paddy fields wading through thin irrigation streamlets balancing oneself without slipping into the clay. For all outward appearance the temple resembled the Verkatesapuram Sapthamatrikes temple with painting of Bala Ganapathi and Baa Murugan. The whole location was however inspiring a sense of supernatural. Itwas a Grove and we nad to wade a rivulet to reach it. Fair enough helped us clean our clay coated feet. The temple wes in the centre with a huge courtyard. To the left was Ayyanar with row oF elephants. Tiny foot long about five in two rows with the Ayyanar in the middle. To the left wasan old well and a huge Termite mound with signs of worship. Itwas about 1.00 in the aftemoon. There was a not only silence but something holy in the air. | was reminded of the old Tamil serial vidatha karuppu where people visit the Grove of the karuppu. Inside the temole just leftus totally speechless. The Thala Thallu Amman was the most magnificent sculpture of Vekrakali at least four and half feet tall She is the centerpiece of the Septhamatrikes where the other matas were much smaller in size yet rich in carvings. The Varahi was also unique. Earlier our car joumey | was telling Mangai Madam how | always wanted to visit the Thiru \Vakkera Kali temple because the Chandramouleeswer temple had a Varaderajar similar to Kulethangerai Srinivaser. This Perumbakkam Vakkra Kali was Giving darshan right in front ofF me. | was too Moved by her munificence. Regaven ji and Mangai ji assured me that the Perumbakkam Vakkra Kali was a bigger sculpture in terms of the size. For me the total experience was very deeply moving one - the isolated Grove, the silence , the Ayyanar Grove remincing the one at fossil park of Thinwvakkara and the Paambu puttru ( yet | coud see the Kulathangerai Srinivaser temple from the Grove). | don't know whether | will be able to feel the same magic again but this is one experience that will stay in me for long Back to the firm ground and the car @ quick lunch it was hard work of enstarmping the old Stones, The script was pretty mociem so there was no huge excitement that we were going to read a message from Pallava. Still Raghavan Sir deftly got into work. There were curious folks watching the same. Our driver as well as some local boys girls women helped us as it was windy. It took about less than two hours. Itwas a lovely hands on experience for those present. Made locel folks happy because itis their heritage and important so archedtogists are trying to read it, The words were too worn out and stone too rough to read it in full. Nevertheless we could spot words and letters here and there and modem script so not much from antiquity point Of view. Exhausted we still had to visit another Angala Paremeswari (Renuka Devi ) temple andthe Divya Desam of Thirukoilur). It was already 6.00 em so we had to aive up the planned visit of Aragandanallur rock cut caves Veerattaneshwarer temple (also with fine Septhamatrikas) and another rock art nearby. hile driving back to Villupuram in the derk Ragaven sir shared all his contributions (equally and efficiently supported by Mangai Madam) as an enthusiast not a professional archeologist. Locating the oldest Pallava Ganepathi, the Kozhiyur inscriptions Samana padukkai cave art . He is just a walking encyclopedia of Vllupuram’s sigrificant spots. FU credits to his wife Mangaiyarkarasi who is totally supportive of his efforts. As couple their enthusiasm for archeology is infectious. Their zeal just catches on to the listeners. (| would request them to visit schools and colleges and encourage our younger generation to appreciate our heritage end take up archedlogical studies seriously.)‘Take the Kozhiyur inscriptions pair. Some time during the Sth century AD Mel Kozhiyur defeated Keezh Kozhiyur. The inscription from Keezh Kozhiyur was found by a scholar two decades ago. ‘And our couple found the matching inscriptions from Mel Kazhiyur. These Kozhiyur skimirishes are matched with literary references as well.So we get an idea how the name of the chiefs etched in stone ere cross referenced with known Tamil literary references. Kind of an end to end tie up. ‘They are not alone. Raghaven ji was mentioning about someone who has located so many inscriptions in irrigation systems ( the kings and queens took huge interest and efforts in this and inscribed the grants in stone). He also named many others lice Sugavanam Murugan Pon Venkatesan who devote energy to the area of actually going in the field locating identifying and recording our heritage. They may not have a formal archeological title but their role is quite significant. They are the unsung heroes foot soldiers of regional archaeological. Specialist with local area knowledge. ‘AS token appreciation for giving me @ full day hands on experience in archeology | asked them what can give. His reply was most interesting, * My parents did penance at Thiruvallur \eeraraghava Perumal by having mud rice in order to beget me after six daughters. | am Priceless and certairly dortt expect any material gifts. If you really want to give something record your experiences of today's trip like a diary and send it across’. ‘What he asked was something in short for me the time commitment to do the write up before | start for Sydney especially in Pongal time. But you and Mangai Madam richly deserve it Sir and here is my dairy for the day. Adiyen (as devout Sri Vaishnavas call themselves) sincerely prays to Sri Kenagavali Thayer samedha Sri Veeraraghava Perumal for blessings you and Mangaiyarkerasi ji with all the best the life has to offer. Acheryan Thiruvadigale Saranam.