2012 Global Marketing Conference at Seoul

THE INFLUENCERS OF URBAN ADOLESCENTS’ CLOTHING PURCHASING

BEHAVIOR IN INDONESIA

Evelyn Hendriana, Universitas Pelita Harapan, Indonesia

Dion Dewa Barata, Kalbe Institute, Indonesia
Evelyn Hanafia, PT Velyn Lestari Prima, Indonesia

ABSTRACT

This study aims to explore the factors that form middle-class adolescents’ clothing
buying behavior. Qualitative research approach was used in this study. The findings
showed that parents, media, celebrity endorsers, peers, direct experience and self-identity
formed adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior.

Keywords: Purchasing behavior, Adolescent, Middle class, Clothing, Indonesia

INTRODUCTION

People obtain some knowledge and skills related to purchasing and consuming activities

from various sources throughout their life. The socialization agents that construct one’s

consumer behavior may differ among age groups. Children gain consumer skills mainly

from their parents (Blackwell, D’Souza, Taghian, Miniard, & Engel, 2007; Ekasasi,

1996; Hsu & Chang, 2008; Moschis & Churchill, 1978). However, this situation is

different on adolescents where parental influence on adolescents has become lessen and

been replaced by peer groups (Dotson & Hyatt, 2005; Kasali, 2005). Adolescents may

also be influenced by other sources, such as media and celebrity endorsers (Danielsson,

2009; John, 1999; Mascarenhas & Higby, 1993).

There are around 24 million people between 13 and 18 years old in Indonesia at the end

of 2010 (Indonesian Statistical Bureau [BPS], 2011; U.S. Census Bureau, 2011).

Adolescents in Indonesia roughly spend $9 billion annually to satisfy their needs and

influence another $13.5 billion of their family expenditure (Adiwaluyo, 2011). By

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considering the number of adolescents and the amount of their expenditure, research

about adolescents’ purchasing behavior turns out to be essential.

This research has three main objectives. The first is to identify the factors that form

middle-class adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior. The second aim is to explore the

types of influence given by each factor on adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior.

Finally, the purpose is to compare the influence given by each factor between pre-

teenagers and teenagers. The findings of this study is expected to give positive

contribution to the knowledge regarding consumer behavior and help marketers in

determining suitable marketing strategy targeted to Indonesian middle-class adolescents.

LITERATURE REVIEW

Adolescents as Young Consumers

Adolescents experience various conflicts (Kasali, 2005). During the transition period

from childhood to adulthood, adolescents attempt to be independent, to break rules and

norms, to look different, and to be idealistic. They want to gain acceptance from others,

mostly from their peers, but still depend on their parents, especially in terms of financial

support.

In this study, adolescents are divided into pre-teenagers aged 13-15 years old and

teenagers aged 16-18 years old. They were born between 1992 and 1997 which

categorized as generation Y. They are more technology savvy, more knowledgeable, and

critical (Adiwaluyo, 2011; Schiffman, Kanuk & Wisenblit, 2010; Taylor, 2007).
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Therefore, marketers need to adjust their marketing strategies by adopting high

technology.

Consumer Socialization

Adolescents’ consumer behavior develops gradually through socialization processes. As

consumers, they learn to recognize their needs and wants, obtain relevant information,

evaluate several alternatives, make purchase decision, buy, consume, and divest the

products after being consumed (Bjurström, 2002; Moschis & Churchill, 1978; Schiffman

et al., 2010).

The formation of purchasing behavior starts at some stage in childhood. It is influenced

by some influential agents, such as parents, peers, educational institution, mass media,

and celebrity endorsers (Dotson & Hyatt, 2005; Gunter & Furnham, 1998; Mascarenhas

& Higby, 1993; Moore, 2004; Moschis & Churchill, 1978; Rodriguez, 2008). During

their adolescence, teenagers want to build identity and gain acceptance from their peer

group. Thus, they become less dependent to their parents (Dotson & Hyatt, 2005;

Garbarino & Kostelny, 1992; Kasali, 2005; Tselepis & de Klerk, 2004).

The depth of influence given by socialization agents may be affected by social structural

and family cohesiveness factors. The social structural variables that may influence the

socialization process include gender (Dotson & Hyatt, 2005), ethnicity (Lundberg,

Romich & Tsang, 2008; Smith, 1999), age (Jacobs & Klaczynski, 2002; John, 1999),

social class (Lemish, 2007; Moschis & Churchill, 1978) and resources availability

(Ekasasi, 1996; Lundberg et al., 2008; Mascarenhas & Higby, 1993). The family
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cohesiveness factors such as communication type between children and parents (Kehret-

Ward & Yalch, 1977; Moschis, 1985) and parenting style (Blackwell et al., 2007; Carlson

& Grossbart, 1988) may affect the depth of parental influence on adolescents.

Culture and Consumer Behavior

The consumer behavior in one country may differ from others because of cultural

differences. Culture is a set of behavioral pattern consists of norms, language, myth,

customs, rituals, appearance, habits, physical artifacts and other symbolic meaning that

transferred from one generation to another (Blackwell et al., 2007; Setiadi, 2008;

Schiffman et al., 2010). It helps an individual to understand the appropriate behavior

within a particular society. It also affects one’s consumer behavior.

Social Class and Consumer Behavior

Social class in Indonesia is divided into upper, middle, and lower classes. An individual

with daily expenditure between $2 and $20 is classified as middle class. The number of

middle class society members is estimated around 40-45 million at the end of 2010

(Harinowo, 2008; Widyastuti, 2011).

Several characteristics of Indonesian middle class are well-educated, have professional

career and wealthier (Dick, 1985; Gerke, 2000; Mulder, 2000). They often have hedonic

lifestyle and sophisticated appearance to demonstrate their status. Some examples of

common status symbols are apparels, automobiles, housing, entertainment, electronic

goods and travelling destinations (Ansori, 2009; Featherstone, 1991; Heryanto, 1999).
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Most middle-class members live in urban areas. Jakarta as the largest metropolitan city

has the highest GDRP in Indonesia with 6% economic growth rate in 2010 (Bank of

Indonesia [BI], 2011). Therefore, it is selected as the location for this research.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

This research used a qualitative approach that enabled the researchers to understand a

phenomenon from participants’ point of view, which usually employed in study related to

behavior, perception, motivation and attitudes (Creswell, 2003; Moleong, 2009). As the

outcome of this study, categories, concepts and propositions would be generated from

participants’ standpoint (Goulding, 2005; Iskandar, 2009).

Data was gathered from adolescents aged 13-18 years old in 2010 by conducting

observations in three shopping malls targeted at middle and upper classes in Jakarta. The

next step was distributing open-ended questionnaires at three schools which students’ age

and social class matched the criteria of this study. Two small focus group discussions

were also conducted. The participants of focus group discussions must buy outfits at least

three times per month. Finally, semi-structured interviews with several participants were

done to get deeper information related to the research problems.

The analysis included descriptive statistics, content analysis and triangulation. The

descriptive statistics were use to obtain description about the phenomenon being studied.

Content analysis was carried out to find the similarity and tendency of participants’

responses to each question in focus group discussions and interviews (Krippendorff,

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2004; Srnka & Koeszegi, 2007). To acquire a comprehensive analysis, triangulation was

executed by comparing data, methods, findings and theory (Iskandar, 2009).

RESULTS

Pre-teenagers Aged 13-15 Years Old

Parents and media gave the highest influence on pre-teenagers by introducing all aspects

of clothing to them. It was found that girls enjoyed clothing purchasing activities

compared to boys.

They knew the latest fashion style from many sources, such as media, parents, peers and

celebrity endorsements. They were curious about the trend and liked to experiment on

their looks. However, before adopting a new style, they were likely to make sure that a

particular new style fit their identity and personality.

They tended to search similar clothes and brands in the retailers that had been mentioned

on the media. They were also familiar with particular stores and brands from their

experiences and co-shopping activities with their parents since their childhood. Moreover,

it was found that participants preferred to buy foreign clothing brands rather than local

brands.

Most participants recognized clothing attributes from their parents. Some of them also

knew these attributes from magazines and direct experience. Table 1 showed pre-

teenagers had tendency to prioritize model, followed by other aspects such as fabric,

color, price, graphic design and price.

Insert Table 1 about here

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Parents played an important role in clothing purchase decision making. From the

observations and survey as shown in Table 2, the majority of participants preferred to go

shopping with their parents because they did not have to worry about the price. The rest

preferred to be accompanied by their friends.

Insert Table 2 about here

Before making decision, they were likely to ask opinion of their shopping companions to

ensure their chosen clothes would not cause embarrassment. It was found the majority of

participants said that clothing purchase decision was made by their parents as shown in

Table 3.

Insert Table 3 about here

Teenagers Aged 16-18 Years Old

There were some similarities between pre-teenagers and teenagers. Girls enjoyed clothing

purchasing activities more than their counterpart. Parents and media played important

roles in introducing various aspects of clothing to them.

They recognized the fashion style from media, parents, celebrity endorsements and peer

group. They preferred clothes that could represent their self-identity. In evaluating an

outfit, they prioritized the model, fabric and price as portrayed in Table 1.

As shown in Table 2, the percentage of teenagers who preferred to shop with friends was

higher than pre-teenagers. By observing their friends’ purchasing behavior, they obtained

additional information regarding clothing brands and attributes. Even though they liked

fashionable clothes as advertised in the media and worn by celebrities, they tended to buy

the cheaper ones.

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There was an indication that teenagers had more power in making purchase decision.

However, several participants still asked for their parents or friends’ opinion regarding

their choices.

DISCUSSION

There is a tendency that adolescent girls enjoy clothing shopping activity more than boys.

Girls are inclined to use apparels to express themselves, while boys show it through

electronic gadgets. This finding is consistent to previous study conducted by Haytko and

Baker (2004).

Media plays an important role in constructing adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior.

However, the responses given by pre-teenagers and teenagers due to the fashion exposed

in the media are different. Pre-teenagers are inclined to buy the advertised outfits in

particular retailers, which is similar to the finding of McClung and Holdorf’s study

(2005). They do not care about the price as most of them shop with their parents. In

contrast, some teenagers prefer to shop alone or with their friends. As a consequence,

they consider price as well as style in evaluating a particular outfit.

Adolescents are also inspired by celebrities’ style. Some of them perceive celebrities’

style as fashionable and may impress others. Nevertheless, they evaluate the

appropriateness of a particular style since local culture prioritizes well-mannered outfits.

As part of collectivist society, adolescents tend to seek an advice from other people to

assure their chosen clothes are acceptable.

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Pre-teenagers know about specific clothing attributes, stores and brands mainly from their

parents and media. They keep using the criteria known from their parents in evaluating an

outfit since it is beneficial and still relevant in today’s situation. Some of them add other

criteria as informed by the media and/or gathered through their shopping experiences.

Peer group has lessened impact on adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior, which

contradicts to the findings of previous studies conducted in developed countries.

Adolescents in this study are highly dependent on their parents. However, the influence

of peer group increases as they mature.

The finding related to brand preference shows that most middle-class adolescents tend to

choose foreign clothing brands to demonstrate their status. They assume that products

from developed countries have better quality and more prestigious than local products

(Ansori, 2009; Ghazali, Othman, Yahya & Ibrahim, 2008; Heryanto, 1999; Ranjbarian,

Rojuee & Mirzaei, 2010).

Based on the findings, this study develops twenty one propositions. Figure 1 shows the

proposed model that need to be tested further. The propositions as shown in the model are

as follows:

P1 : Self-identity influences fashion style

P2 : Celebrity endorsement influences fashion style moderated by cultural

characteristics

P3 : Media content influences fashion style

P4 : Media content influences brand preferences

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P5 : Media content influences store preferences

P6 : Media content influences clothing attributes being considered

P7 : Parents’ purchasing behavior influences fashion style

P8 : Parents’ purchasing behavior influences brand preferences moderated by

prestige consciousness

P9 : Parents’ purchasing behavior influences store preferences

P10 : Parents’ purchasing behavior influences clothing attributes being considered

P11 : Peers’ purchasing behavior influences fashion style

P12 : Peers’ purchasing behavior influences brand preferences moderated by age

and prestige consciousness

P13 : Peers’ purchasing behavior influences clothing attributes being considered

moderated by age

P14 : Direct experience influences brand preferences

P15 : Direct experience influences store preferences

P16 : Direct experience influences clothing attributes being considered

P17 : Fashion style influences attitude toward fashion

P18 : Brand preferences influence attitude toward fashion

P19 : Store preferences influence attitude toward fashion

P20 : Clothing attributes influence attitude toward fashion

P21 : Attitude toward fashion influences clothing purchase decision moderated by

age, parenting style, parents’ approval and peers’ approval

Insert Figure 1 about here

CONCLUSION AND IMPLICATIONS

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Conclusion and Theoretical Implications

Adolescents are in the process of identity building. They are inclined to show their

uniqueness through their selected products, including clothing. Their clothing purchasing

behavior is affected by various socialization agents, such as parents, media, celebrity

endorsers and peer group, as well as direct experiences. The knowledge of clothing

aspects given by each socialization agent include the information about clothing

attributes, stores, brands and fashion style. Adolescents may adjust their knowledge of

clothing attributes, brands and stores based on their previous shopping experiences. There

is a difference between peers’ influence on pre-teenagers and teenagers as presented in

Table 4.

Insert Table 4 about here

Managerial Implications

There is an indication that urban adolescent girls pay attention on their appearance more

than boys. It would be better if practitioners target this segment by offering fashionable

outfits that present adolescents’ self-identity. Marketers also need to provide retailers’

information in promoting their products in magazines, especially those targeted to pre-

teenagers, as they tend to purchase similar clothes and brands in particular stores as

advertised in the magazine.

As they mature, adolescents spend more time with friends rather than with their parents.

Thus, marketers should design their marketing strategy to adolescents and their parents

using both advertising and buzz marketing.

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Adolescents place a greater importance on model in evaluating an outfit. The clothes

should be able to show the uniqueness of the users and suitable to local culture. Today’s

adolescents are technological savvy, in which they use Internet to search and share

information and ideas. Thus, marketers may use Internet to collect information about

adolescents’ preferred styles and to raise awareness about their preferred brands and retail

stores.

Suggestions for Future Research

The propositions developed in this study must be tested to validate the findings. As the

result, a more comprehensive analysis of the influence given by each socialization agents,

direct experiences, and self-identity to adolescents’ clothing purchasing decision may be

generated.

This study focused on urban middle-class consumers aged 13-18 years old. Future study

may choose different social class and location in order to gain better understanding about

this segment.

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TABLES AND FIGURE

Table 1. Clothing attributes being considered

Clothing attributes Explorative Survey Focus group discussion

Pre-teenagers Teenagers Pre-teenagers Teenagers
Fabrics 13.78% 24.24% 2 of 5 2 of 7
Graphic design 6.90% 0.00% - -
Price 6.90% 18.18% 2 of 5 4 of 7
Uniqueness 0.00% 3.03% - -
Quality 3.45% 9.09% - -
Brands 3.45% 3.03% - -
Model 41.38% 27.28% 4 of 5 4 of 7
Size 0.00% 3.03% 2 of 5 -
Color 17.24% 3.03% - -
Not answered 6.90% 9.09% - -

Table 2. Preferred shopping companion

Shopping Companion Pre-teenagers Teenagers

No one 0.00% 3.03%
Parents 96.55% 72.73%
Siblings 0.00% 6.06%
Friends 3.45% 6.06%
Partner 0.00% 3.03%
Maid 0.00% 3.03%
Not answered 0.00% 6.06%

Table 3. Final purchase decision maker

Decider Explorative Survey Focus group discussion

Pre-teenagers Teenagers Pre-teenagers Teenagers
Him/herself 41.38% 66.67% 2 of 5 6 of 7
Partner 0.00% 3.03% 3 of 5 1 of 7
Parents 51.72% 21.21% - -
Siblings 6.90% 6.06% - -
Friends 0.00% 3.03% - -
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Table 4. Types of influence on adolescents’ clothing purchasing behavior

Influencers Pre-teenagers (13-15 year-old) Teenagers (16-18 year-old)

Parents Fashion style Fashion style
Clothing brands Clothing brands
Clothing stores Clothing stores
Clothing attributes Clothing attributes
Media Fashion style Fashion style
Clothing brands Clothing brands
Clothing stores Clothing stores
Clothing attributes Clothing attributes
Peer group Fashion style Fashion style
Clothing brands
Clothing attributes
Celebrity endorsements Fashion style Fashion style
Self-identity Fashion style Fashion style
Direct experiences Clothing brands Clothing brands
Clothing stores Clothing stores
Clothing attributes Clothing attributes

Fig. 1 Proposed research model