One of the major benefits of growing strawberries hydroponically, aside from the

magnificent taste, is that they can be grown at an elevated height. This has proven
to be a great benefit to commercial growers as the picking rate is much faster and
less fatiguing and cultivation of plants is easier.

Yields per plant are higher and losses are lower in hydroponics than in soil. Crops
can be grown on poor land and weeds in the crop are virtually eliminated. Gardens
can be vertically tiered to maximize the use of space. The sky's the limit on how
high you want to stack your gardens.

Strawberries are members of the Rose family (Rosaceae, genus Fragaria) which also
includes other fragrant and flavourful species such as apples, pears, plums and
cherries. Originally the succulent berries were called strew-berries for the way
the runners and berries grew strewn across the ground. However, as so often happens
with the English language, the name gradually evolved to strawberries.

Strawberries are not really berries or fruit in the "botanical" sense (i.e., the
end result of a fertilized plant ovum). A strawberry is actually an "aggregate
fruit" � the "real" fruit are the objects we think of as the "strawberry seed"
(properly called "achenes") which are fruits in the same way that a raw sunflower
seed with it's tough shell is a fruit. The "berry" is actually an "enlarged
receptacle" and is not reproductive material. As a result, strawberries must be
picked at full ripeness, as they cannot ripen once picked.

Rich in vitamin C, iron, potassium and fiber strawberries have also been credited
as having cancer fighting compounds. For hundreds of years homeopathic
practitioners have incorporated strawberry plants and fruit in the treatment of
anemia, diabetes, rheumatic gout, and kidney and liver complaints. Fresh strawberry
removes tarter and teeth stains, soothes sunburn and lightens freckles. Strawberry
liqueurs, preserves and jellies are widely used worldwide. The average American
consumes more than 1.4 kg. (3 lb.) of strawberries per year.

Growing strawberries hydroponically at home can produce enough berries to feed a

family of four for a full year. Production doesn't need to stop seasonally as a
hydroponic system can be set up outdoors or indoors with artificial light.

A hydroponic system can be tailored to suit almost any growing application;

strawberries are well suited for hydroponic cultivation. Perfect water and nutrient
levels can be easily maintained to produce plump, juicy, unblemished fruit.

There are different categories of strawberries. The ones most commonly found in our
hemisphere are the long-day-type. They flower in response to the long daylight
hours of June, fruit in July then flower again, usually yielding little or no fruit
from the second flowering.

Temperature has a major influence on strawberry physiology and can override day
length as the control mechanism for flowering. If temperatures drop too low,
vegetative growth is inhibited causing poor flower and fruit formation. Conversely
if temperatures are too high strawberry plants will wilt and stop producing flowers
and fruit.

Strawberries grown from seed will usually take two to three years to mature, not
the ideal situation for hydroponic growers. Early in the season, after risk of
frost is over, purchase cold-stored runners from your local nursery. Always use
runners that are certified virus tested. Cold stored runners are off-shoots of a
mature strawberry plant (also known as a mother plant) that have been snipped off
and rooted, forming a clone of the original strawberry plant. They are kept in cold
storage through the winter. Ideally the runners you choose will be in flower or
have buds visible.
Determine which hydroponic gardening method will be suitable for your location and
number of plants. Ebb and flow or flood and drain works well for a large number of
plants, however, it is totally immobile once set up. Smaller, multi-tiered deep
water culture, NFT (Nutrient Film Technique) or drip irrigation gardens seem to be
the preferred choice for both hobby and commercial growers.

Carefully remove the runners or new strawberry plant from its container. Remove as
much of the earth as you can by gently shaking and massaging the roots. Submerge
the entire root system in a bucket of cold water for about 10 minutes then rinse
roots under cold running water to remove any remaining dirt. Be very careful to
inflict as little damage as possible to the roots and tiny root hairs as too much
breakage will seriously stress plants and impair growth. Dry or brittle leaves and
roots should be removed at this time.

It is important to keep the roots moist while planting. Exposure to the sun or wind
will quickly dry out the tender rootlets. This drying will cause failures in the
establishment of the planting. A convenient way to keep the roots moist is to wrap
them in wet burlap and then carry them in a pail or basket.

Line the bottom of a hydroponic mesh pot with a sterile growing media. Leca,
expanded clay pellets or heydite, or crushed shale rock work very well for
strawberries. There are many other media available, discuss which one works best
for the type of hydroponic garden you'll be using with your hydroponic merchant.

Presoak all media in pH balanced water for at least a half hour prior to using. Dry
media will act like a sponge and suck all moisture from plants roots.

Carefully place one strawberry plant in the pot with roots splayed over the media.
Add enough of the growing medium to fill the pot making sure the crown of the
strawberry is well above the surface. The crown requires light and fresh air as
this is where new leaves and flowers grow. If submerged, the crown will rot causing
the entire plant to die.

Insert the pot into your hydroponic garden and follow the instructions. Make sure
plants receive a good water-to-air ratio and that roots are never left standing in
still water or solution. A feeding regime with a standard two part bloom nutrient
formula should provide all the nourishment that your strawberry plants will require
to grow robust and flavorful berries. pH should be maintained between 5.8 and 6.2
to ensure maximum nutrient uptake.

There are several different types of strawberries suitable to various climates and
zones. The long-day-type typically grown in northern regions are light and climate
sensitive. Flower and fruit production is triggered by the long hours of spring and
early summer light received by the plant. Once introduced to a warm climate, plants
will continuously produce an abundance of flowers. Temperature also affects a
fruit's flavour and sugar content.

Conditions can easily be simulated indoors, out-of-season. Once plants have

finished fruiting and produced runners, clip the runners from the mother plant and
root using conventional rooting methods. Treat mother plants as annuals as they
will not winter well in a hydroponic garden.

Once cuttings or runners have established a good root system, they must endure a
chilling process. This may be done by placing rooted cuttings in a garage or cold
cellar where temperatures remain between zero and 5�C. Chilling may last anywhere
from 10 days to five months depending on when your next crop is desired.

Introducing the chilled cuttings to a growing environment at staggered times will

yield a delicious supply of fresh berries year round.