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A firmly stuffed, well shaped doll will feel like an orange when pressed.
Pattern Start
Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to
shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of
each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1, (not a st from now on), work 7sc (7sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 5: Work a 3dc bobble (see special stitches) in the first st (makes thumb), sc in each of the
remaining 13sts (14sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 11sts (13sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around (13sts)
Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts (12sts)
Rnd 10 – 14: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Stuff hand firmly and the arm lighter and lighter towards the top,
there should be very little stuffing in the top of the arm – be careful
not to overstuff the arm, it should be tapered from the side as
pictured and sit nicely at the side of the body when attached (see
photo on first page). You may have difficulty getting the clothing on
and fit correctly if they are overstuffed.
If you want to sew on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 15: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the arm closed and into place 2 rounds down from
the start of the head (round 30) on the body. Making sure the thumbs are at the front.
See next page if you would like to crochet the arms on…
If you want to crochet on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 15: Sc in the first st, sc2tog, *sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around
(8sts)
Sl st across until the loop on your hook is at the side of the arm as pictured.
Now holding the arm so that the working loop on the hook is on
the right, pinch the top of the arm together, you will have 4sts on
either side (the front and back), ch1 (not a st) and sc in each st
across, working through all 4 loops at the front
and back of the work to close the top of the arm
(4sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
You will crochet the arms onto the body on
round 30 of the body.
~•~
Legs – make 2
Each leg is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from
the foot up.
You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each
round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after
finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: With white yarn MR, ch1 (not at st), work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc into the back loop only of each st around (24sts)
Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Invisible single crochet decrease
It is very important that you follow this way of decreasing – if your decreases look at all
lumpy when you work them please make sure to check your method of working them
and/or watch the video because they should be practically ‘invisible’
Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on hook),
yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal.
Click here for to watch a Youtube video that shows this method (useful from 1min 48 in)
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (20sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (18sts)
Rnd 11-16: Sc in each st around (18sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you should be at the back of this leg, continue as
follows…
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs a little lighter for now.
If you need help with this next part please see this video on how to join the
legs on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel.
Rnd 17: Sc in each of the first ^^4sts then take other leg and place it next to
the first so that both feet are facing the same way, then sc into the last st on
the fastened off leg, continue to sc in each of the remaining 17sts around this
leg and then sc in each of the remaining 14sts around the first leg (36sts)
^^please feel free to work more or less sc at the start of round 17 to reach the
side of the leg as pictured and to sc into whichever st feels the most
comfortable on the fastened off leg as you may be in a different position to me
on the leg because of your own personal gauge/tension (see Frequently Asked
Questions to learn more about personal guage/tension), yarn and hook choice.
There will be a small hole between the legs when joined. When you have
finished the doll, simply take a small piece of yarn and with your darning needle
sew the hole closed.
The toes are designed to turn outwards a little because as a rule people don’t
stand with their feet pointing straight ahead
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around (36sts)
~•~
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining
the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of where
the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 19: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, repeat
from * around (42sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in each of the next 20sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * once more (44sts)
Rnd 21: *Sc in each of the next 10sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 22: *Sc in each of the next 11sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (52sts)
Photo shows arms crocheted on, alternate option is to
sew them on after you have finished the head Stuff the body firmly as you go (make sure to stuff the top
of the legs at the same time too).
Rnd 23: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 10sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (44sts)
Rnd 25: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9sts, repeat from * around (40sts)
Rnd 26: *Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 27: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7sts, repeat from * around (32sts)
Rnd 28: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, sc2tog repeat from * around (28sts)
Rnd 29: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5sts, repeat from * around (24sts)
~•~
If you chose to crochet on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 30: In this next round we will be working a sc into each st around and also
attaching the arms at the same time. Remember to make sure the thumbs are
at the front!
To begin with you need to sc in each st until you reach the side
of the body - I was at the back of the doll as pictured and I
worked an sc in each of the first 8sts but it may differ for you
dependent upon your personal gauge, yarn choice and hook
size.
Then work the next 4 sc sts through the two
loops in each st at the top of the arm as well
as the two loops on the body (please see
photo). Then continue to sc in each st to the
other side of the body (I worked an sc in 8sts
across the front of the body) and attach the
other arm in exactly the same way, sc in
each remaining st around as appropriate
(24sts)
~•~
If you chose to sew the arms on continue as follows…
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around (24sts)
~•~
Rnd 31: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (20sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around (20sts)
Head
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Stuff the whole doll firmly as you work, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing from the
head down into the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 52: *Sc in each of the next 9sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (60sts)
Rnd 53: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8sts, repeat from * around (54sts)
Rnd 54: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 55: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6sts, repeat from * around (42sts)
Rnd 56: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 57: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4sts, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 58: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 59: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2sts, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 60: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 61: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.
~•~
Optional Nose
Take a length of skin tone yarn and weave it back and forth, several times,
over 3 stitches between and just below the eyes as pictured – if you start
and end in the same place it’s easy to fasten off and hide the loose ends in
the head. I use this technique when I make the eyelashes on my dolls and
you can see it here in this video on the Weebee and Friends YouTube
channel.
Hair Cap
Hair cap is worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end
of each round join the last st to the top of the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch2 (not a st from now on), work 11dc, join (as
above) (11sts)
Rnd 2: Ch2, work 2dc in each st around, join (22sts)
Rnd 3: Ch2, dc in the first st, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in the
next st, work 2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (33sts)
Rnd 4: Ch2, dc in each of the first 2sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 2sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (44sts)
Rnd 5: Ch2, dc in each of the first 3sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 3sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (55sts)
Rnds 6+: Ch2, dc in the back loop only of each stich around, join (55sts)
^^Repeat round 6 until cap sits on the head at
an angle like in this photo (I had 11 rounds in
total at this point).
Sl st around LOOSELY to neaten the edge.
Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the
parting and sew the cap to the dolls head.
^^ You should be able to tell after working two or three straight rounds of 55sts whether or
not the cap will be too big or too small.
Too big? Either try reworking the cap in a smaller hook size or pull back
your work to round 4 and repeat straight rounds of 44sts in the back loop
only from there to reduce the cap by 10 stitches.
Too small? Either try reworking the cap in a bigger hook size or pull back
your work to round 5 (55sts) and work an extra increase round to
increase the cap by 10 stitches. So round 6 would be Ch2, dc in each of
the first 4sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 4sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (66sts) Then you would just
work your straight rounds of 66sts in the back loop only until the cap fits
as above.
Eyelashes
To add eyelashes, take a decent length of your chosen colour of yarn and
split it into smaller strands, e.g. my DK weight yarn splits into 3 strands.
Take one strand and use it to sew two eyelashes above each eye at an
angle – see this video for how to do this.
~•~
~•~