Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 10

Standard Size Weebee Doll

©2018 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved.


Finished products created with this FREE pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this FREE pattern are accurate and
safe, and therefore cannot accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property,
however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges are provided for the information of
readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
Please be aware that I only share and sell my patterns via www.ravelry.com.
If you have downloaded this FREE pattern from anywhere else, please delete it immediately - as there
are sites where anonymous hackers upload pattern files containing viruses, allowing them to access your
computer and steal your personal and financial details.

Before you begin…


When I make my Weebee dolls using Worsted/4/Aran/10ply weight yarn and a
3mm hook or Light Worsted/3/DK/8ply weight yarn and a 4mm hook, they stand at
8.5 - 9 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only the
arms need sewing or crocheting on! Other yarn weights and hook sizes can of
course be used to create a smaller or a larger dolls!
Weebee is named after my youngest niece Phoebe - when she was first born my
daughter and Phoebe’s older sister couldn’t say her name properly yet and she
has been nicknamed ‘Weebee’ ever since.
You can find all of my doll patterns plus lots of hair and
clothing/outfit patterns here.
Make sure to join the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook group dedicated to my Weebee doll patterns with over 8,800
amazingly friendly and helpful members!

Useful info for those who crochet left handed


Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if
you are left handed.
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special and Paintbox acrylic yarn are my absolute
favourite brands though, lovely to work with and reasonably priced 
Terminology: US Abbreviations Abbreviations Cont/d…
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet (dc) Space (sp)
Stitch marker
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Skip (skp)
Tapestry needle
Loop (lp) Stitch (st)
Stuffing
Pair of 10 or 12mm safety eyes Magic ring (MR) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Next (nxt) Yarn Over (yo)
Round (rnd)

Frequently Asked Questions


What type of yarn and hook size should I use?
You just need to use a combination of yarn and hook size that gives
you nice tight stitches – everyone is different, what works for one
person might not work for another. It took me a few attempts to find
the perfect combination for my dolls and it may be the same for you.
The size of your doll will be dependant upon the weight of yarn you
choose, the brand of the yarn (as they can differ vastly) as well as the
hook size and your own personal gauge/tension - click here for a
useful page which explains personal gauge/tension. How firmly you
stuff and shape your dolls plays an important part too of course.
The tighter your stitches are the easier it will be to stuff your doll firmly
and shape it as you stuff enabling you to escape the infamous
wobbly head.

A firmly stuffed, well shaped doll will feel like an orange when pressed.

And won’t have a wobbly head…


I am new to making dolls where should I start?
If you are a completely new to making dolls or just want to see how I make
one. The best place to start is with this free pattern here.
This special beginners version of my standard size Weebee doll contains
lots of links to helpful tutorials, is written in more detail and has
accompanying video tutorials for each part!
You can either make yourself a boy or a girl standard size Weebee Doll in a
Bunny Costume or make yourself a naked doll to dress up.
~•~
I’ve started making a Weebee but I’m not sure it’s right as it looks really odd?
Argh! The head looks huge! It looks like an alien!
Don’t panic. You see those little cuties above? The ones with the bunny hats…well this
is the one in green!
Their heads are huge and they do look like aliens before you add the hair and arms.
Just crack on and see how you feel when they have arms and hair…pretty sure you’ll be
pleased with the results!
~•~
I don’t like the shape of my doll…the neck’s too long, it doesn’t have a tummy and bottom,
what did I do wrong?
One of the things I always say is to stuff, stuff, stuff and stuff until you can stuff no more but one of the
things I don’t think a lot of people realise is that you need to shape your doll as you stuff. Shaping is
as important as stuffing firmly. You can’t just put the stuffing in there and expect it to conform to the
shape of the doll, you have to give it a helping hand.
When people contact me unhappy about the shape of their dolls I always guide them in the direction of
the video tutorial on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel where you can watch me stuff and
shape my doll.
If there’s anything you’re unhappy about with regards to your dolls, invisible decreases, colour
changes, stuffing, shaping, sewing the arms on, making the hair caps, etc. you’ll either find them in this
set of video’s or on the channel.
• 6 Part Video Tutorial Playlist can be found here – even I was surprised to actually watch just how
much stuffing I used! Weebee dolls are hungry!
• The Weebee and Friend’s YouTube channel can be found here.
~•~
Is the clothing removable? How does it go on over the
dolls head? Will a pattern designed for one of your
dolls fit one of the others?
All of the items in my doll clothing patterns are removable.
The clothing items are designed to go on over their feet.
As you can see all of my dolls are different shapes and
sizes so clothing designed for one won’t fit another without
a great deal of adjustment.
Special Stitches
Invisible single crochet decrease
PLEASE READ - as this way of decreasing should be used throughout the pattern!
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Please see this Youtube video
for a demonstration of this type of decrease (useful from 1min 48 in).
3dc Bobble: Yo, insert hook into st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on the
hook - two loops remain on the hook - *yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo
insert hook into the same st and pull through first two loops - three loops remain on hook*, repeat
from * to * once more, you should have four loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook,
yo again and pull through tightly to close the stitch. For a picture tutorial, please see this page.
~•~

Pattern Start
Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to
shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of
each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1, (not a st from now on), work 7sc (7sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 5: Work a 3dc bobble (see special stitches) in the first st (makes thumb), sc in each of the
remaining 13sts (14sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 11sts (13sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around (13sts)
Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts (12sts)
Rnd 10 – 14: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Stuff hand firmly and the arm lighter and lighter towards the top,
there should be very little stuffing in the top of the arm – be careful
not to overstuff the arm, it should be tapered from the side as
pictured and sit nicely at the side of the body when attached (see
photo on first page). You may have difficulty getting the clothing on
and fit correctly if they are overstuffed.
If you want to sew on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 15: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the arm closed and into place 2 rounds down from
the start of the head (round 30) on the body. Making sure the thumbs are at the front.
See next page if you would like to crochet the arms on…
If you want to crochet on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 15: Sc in the first st, sc2tog, *sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around
(8sts)
Sl st across until the loop on your hook is at the side of the arm as pictured.
Now holding the arm so that the working loop on the hook is on
the right, pinch the top of the arm together, you will have 4sts on
either side (the front and back), ch1 (not a st) and sc in each st
across, working through all 4 loops at the front
and back of the work to close the top of the arm
(4sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
You will crochet the arms onto the body on
round 30 of the body.

~•~

Legs – make 2
Each leg is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from
the foot up.
You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each
round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after
finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: With white yarn MR, ch1 (not at st), work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc into the back loop only of each st around (24sts)
Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Invisible single crochet decrease
It is very important that you follow this way of decreasing – if your decreases look at all
lumpy when you work them please make sure to check your method of working them
and/or watch the video because they should be practically ‘invisible’ 
Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on hook),
yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal.
Click here for to watch a Youtube video that shows this method (useful from 1min 48 in)
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (20sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (18sts)
Rnd 11-16: Sc in each st around (18sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you should be at the back of this leg, continue as
follows…
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs a little lighter for now.
If you need help with this next part please see this video on how to join the
legs on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel.
Rnd 17: Sc in each of the first ^^4sts then take other leg and place it next to
the first so that both feet are facing the same way, then sc into the last st on
the fastened off leg, continue to sc in each of the remaining 17sts around this
leg and then sc in each of the remaining 14sts around the first leg (36sts)
^^please feel free to work more or less sc at the start of round 17 to reach the
side of the leg as pictured and to sc into whichever st feels the most
comfortable on the fastened off leg as you may be in a different position to me
on the leg because of your own personal gauge/tension (see Frequently Asked
Questions to learn more about personal guage/tension), yarn and hook choice.
There will be a small hole between the legs when joined. When you have
finished the doll, simply take a small piece of yarn and with your darning needle
sew the hole closed.
The toes are designed to turn outwards a little because as a rule people don’t
stand with their feet pointing straight ahead 
Rnd 18: Sc in each st around (36sts)

~•~

Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining
the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of where
the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 19: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, repeat
from * around (42sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in each of the next 20sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * once more (44sts)
Rnd 21: *Sc in each of the next 10sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 22: *Sc in each of the next 11sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * around (52sts)
Photo shows arms crocheted on, alternate option is to
sew them on after you have finished the head  Stuff the body firmly as you go (make sure to stuff the top
of the legs at the same time too).
Rnd 23: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 10sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (44sts)
Rnd 25: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9sts, repeat from * around (40sts)
Rnd 26: *Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 27: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7sts, repeat from * around (32sts)
Rnd 28: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, sc2tog repeat from * around (28sts)
Rnd 29: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5sts, repeat from * around (24sts)
~•~
If you chose to crochet on the arms continue as follows…
Rnd 30: In this next round we will be working a sc into each st around and also
attaching the arms at the same time. Remember to make sure the thumbs are
at the front!
To begin with you need to sc in each st until you reach the side
of the body - I was at the back of the doll as pictured and I
worked an sc in each of the first 8sts but it may differ for you
dependent upon your personal gauge, yarn choice and hook
size.
Then work the next 4 sc sts through the two
loops in each st at the top of the arm as well
as the two loops on the body (please see
photo). Then continue to sc in each st to the
other side of the body (I worked an sc in 8sts
across the front of the body) and attach the
other arm in exactly the same way, sc in
each remaining st around as appropriate
(24sts)
~•~
If you chose to sew the arms on continue as follows…
Rnd 30: Sc in each st around (24sts)
~•~
Rnd 31: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (20sts)
Rnd 32: Sc in each st around (20sts)

Head
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.

Optional Neck Definition & Head Support Round


Still using skin tone yarn work a round of LOOSE slip
stitches into the back loops only of Round 32…take note of
these unworked front loops beneath the slip stitches…
You will work the next round (Round 33) beneath
those front loops…this creates an extra thick round
that helps to define the neck and supports the head a
little.
Here’s a two tone version –
you’ll see the two loops on
top formed by the slip
stitches and then the
unworked front loop beneath
them, you’re working into
the stitches beneath that
unworked front loop.
Rnd 33: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 34: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 35: *Sc in each of the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 36: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (42sts)
Rnd 37: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 38: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (54sts)
Rnd 39: *Sc in each of the next 8sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (60sts)
Rnd 40: *Sc in each of the next 9sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (66sts)
Rnds 41-51: Sc in each st around – if using safety eyes (see other items needed at the start
of the pattern for recommended size), attach them after working round 45 between rounds
42 & 43 seven stitches apart (66sts)

Option for Crocheted Eyes


If you don’t want to use safety eyes, these eyes are an excellent
alternative which many people use for their Weebee dolls.

Stuff the whole doll firmly as you work, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing from the
head down into the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 52: *Sc in each of the next 9sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (60sts)
Rnd 53: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8sts, repeat from * around (54sts)
Rnd 54: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 55: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6sts, repeat from * around (42sts)
Rnd 56: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 57: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4sts, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 58: *Sc in each of the next 3sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 59: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2sts, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 60: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 61: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.
~•~

Optional Nose
Take a length of skin tone yarn and weave it back and forth, several times,
over 3 stitches between and just below the eyes as pictured – if you start
and end in the same place it’s easy to fasten off and hide the loose ends in
the head. I use this technique when I make the eyelashes on my dolls and
you can see it here in this video on the Weebee and Friends YouTube
channel.
Hair Cap
Hair cap is worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end
of each round join the last st to the top of the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch2 (not a st from now on), work 11dc, join (as
above) (11sts)
Rnd 2: Ch2, work 2dc in each st around, join (22sts)
Rnd 3: Ch2, dc in the first st, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in the
next st, work 2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (33sts)
Rnd 4: Ch2, dc in each of the first 2sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 2sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (44sts)
Rnd 5: Ch2, dc in each of the first 3sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 3sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (55sts)
Rnds 6+: Ch2, dc in the back loop only of each stich around, join (55sts)
^^Repeat round 6 until cap sits on the head at
an angle like in this photo (I had 11 rounds in
total at this point).
Sl st around LOOSELY to neaten the edge.
Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the
parting and sew the cap to the dolls head.

^^ You should be able to tell after working two or three straight rounds of 55sts whether or
not the cap will be too big or too small.
Too big? Either try reworking the cap in a smaller hook size or pull back
your work to round 4 and repeat straight rounds of 44sts in the back loop
only from there to reduce the cap by 10 stitches.
Too small? Either try reworking the cap in a bigger hook size or pull back
your work to round 5 (55sts) and work an extra increase round to
increase the cap by 10 stitches. So round 6 would be Ch2, dc in each of
the first 4sts, work 2dc in the next st, *dc in each of the next 4sts, work
2dc in the next st, repeat from * around, join (66sts) Then you would just
work your straight rounds of 66sts in the back loop only until the cap fits
as above.

To make the parting…


Attach a darning needle to your finishing tail and weave in and out of 4
rounds up the join on your cap, pull tightly to gather, then wrap the
yarn around the gather several times until you are happy with how it
looks – click here to watch a video on the Weebee and Friends
YouTube channel demonstrating how this is done. Do not fasten off
the tail…

To sew the cap onto the head…


Continue to use the finishing tail to sew the hair cap to head using a whip st – please see this
video on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel if you need help with this.
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Finishing Touches…
Pigtails
You can find pigtails for your doll in this free pattern here.

Colour those cheeks!


To add colour to your dolls cheeks, you can use ordinary makeup blush
and a blusher brush. Sweep it beneath the eye at an angle up towards
the hair line.

Eyelashes
To add eyelashes, take a decent length of your chosen colour of yarn and
split it into smaller strands, e.g. my DK weight yarn splits into 3 strands.
Take one strand and use it to sew two eyelashes above each eye at an
angle – see this video for how to do this.

~•~

Other Hair Options and Clothing


Other ideas for hair can be found in the group files of the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook
page (see link on page 2) as well as in the patterns in my Ravelry store here.
You can find all of my other doll patterns as well as lots of clothing and outfit patterns here in my
Ravelry store.

~•~

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern!


Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Page
(link on page 2) and don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry!