www.riverfrontmarine.

com March 2018

RIVERFRONT
MARINE SPORTS

Pirates of the Cape?

Researchers are examining whether human bones found in a Cape
Cod shipwreck are those of the infamous pirate Samuel “Black Sam”
Bellamy.The Whydah Pirate Museum in Yarmouth, Massachusetts,
says that archaeologists uncovered the remains in the wreck last
year, near what they believe to be Bellamy’s pistol.
(Read more here)

March 2018: temperature 70° (3° above avg) precipitation 5" (5" above avg. north, 1"
below south) Mar 1-8: T-storms, then sunny, warm, Mar 9-18: Scattered t-storms,
cool, Mar 19-31:Scattered t-storms north, sunny south; warm

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How to Apply Bottom Paint to Your Boat

The following are preparation steps required for a successful bottom job begins as soon as
the hull clears the water.
Clean
Slime and growth are relatively easy to remove while
the bottom is still wet, but let the stuff dry and you will
have to chisel it off. Fortunately most boatyards
pressure wash the bottom as soon as they haul the
boat, and many will also knock off hard growth with a
long-handled scraper. If bits of bottom paint flake off
under the pressure of the washer nozzle, ask the yard
worker to make another pass to remove as much loose
paint as possible.
Strip
Remember that the adhesion of the new paint is only as good as that of the paint under it, so
watch for signs of adhesion failure. Anywhere the old paint is flaking or lifting, worry exposed
edges with a knife or small chisel. If the paint zips off, the bottom needs to be stripped.
You may also have to strip the bottom if you are changing the type of paint. For example, the
aggressive solvents in vinyl paints lift other types of bottom paints, so if you are applying
vinyl, any non-vinyl paint has to come off. And soft, sloughing paints are a poor undercoat for
anything other than a fresh coat of the same.
Using a 2-inch hook scraper is the stripping method least injurious to both you and the
planet, and this is often the easiest method as well. If you decide to use a chemical stripper,
be sure it is one formulated for fiberglass; regular strippers will attack the gelcoat.
Sand
When the old paint is in good condition, in general you need only sand it, wash it, tape the
waterline, and roll on a fresh coat or two. A grinder loaded with 80-grit disks on a foam pad
can quickly prepare a hull for recoating, but it can also chew through the paint and into the
laminate in an instant. If you lack experience with this powerful tool, 80-grit paper in a
random orbit sander or a finishing sander will do the same job somewhat less quickly but
with much less risk to the hull. Do not use a belt sander; it is designed to make things flat
and that is the effect it will have on your hull.
Many boatyards now prohibit normal power sanding because of the dust it generates. The
solution is a shop-vac and a random-orbit sander with a vacuum hose connection. If you
don't want to buy a new sander, slip a length of plastic hose over the dust bag mount on your
old palm sander and tape the other end into the shop-vac hose. Either rig will capture most
of the toxic dust sanding generates, but not all of it. Be sure to wear a tight-fitting respirator--

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not a paper mask--while sanding. Also wear earplugs to shut out the din of the sander and
the vac. You'll save your hearing and find the work much less tiring.
Even if you aren't stripping the bottom, it is good practice to sand away most of the previous
application. This avoids a thick build-up that will eventually turn brittle and cause new paint
to flake. A different color first coat provides a flag that signals when you have sanded
enough.
Bare Fiberglass
A hull that has not been previously painted has mold release wax on the fiberglass that will
interfere with paint adhesion unless you remove it. Clean the hull surface thoroughly with
dewaxing solvent and plenty of clean rags before you sand; otherwise sanding drags the
wax into the scratches and it will be that much harder to remove.
Sand the de-waxed hull lightly with 80-grit paper before applying the first coat of paint--the
flag coat--which should be a different color from the top coat(s).
Stir
If the boatyard has a paint shaker, run it for at least 5 minutes to get the copper and the
pigment evenly distributed throughout the paint. A drill-powered mixing paddle can also do a
good job. In the absence of a either, pour half the paint into a mixing bucket so you can mix
the remaining half vigorously without sloshing paint onto the ground. Keep dredging up the
copper off the bottom of the can until the bottom feels clean to the touch of your paddle.
Slowly stir in what you poured off until the paint is uniform in color and consistency. If the
paint has been on the shelf awhile, getting it mixed thoroughly can take 10 or 15 minutes,
but don't skimp; if the copper isn't evenly distributed, some areas of your hull won't be
protected.
Roll
Roll the paint onto the hull using a short-nap roller cover. An extension for the handle will
make painting the keel easier and keep you clear of the inevitable droplets the roller will
sling. Wear sleeves and gloves to keep the paint off your skin.

Brew of the Month!

Henniker Brewing Co. — Working Man’s Porter

Working Man’s Porter an ale of true merit, brewed in the tradition of

England’s Industrial Revolution, an age of rough-handed factory
workers, a time before the weekend existed. Hearty and truly robust,
this Porter’s body is built with complex English brown and black malts,
and refined by Brambling Cross hops, which lend notes of herbs and black currants.

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Don't add any thinner to bottom paint unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. (There
are exceptions to every rule: thinner may be required if the
day is hot and windy.)
Fill the basin of your paint tray with paint. Dip your roller,
unload it on the tray slope, and roll it up and down on
the hull, i.e. from waterline to keel. Work fast as many
bottom paints dry quickly. Each time you refill the paint
tray, first stir the paint in the can to keep the copper in
suspension.
By the time you work all the way around the hull, many
bottom paints will be dry enough to overcoat. Check the specifications on the paint you are
using. A second coat lengthens the life of almost any bottom paint; copolymers benefit from
3 or 4 coats. No sanding or other prep is needed between coats. Save some paint for the
areas under the stand or cradle pads.
Get the yard manager to move the stands as soon as the rest of the hull is dry (never move
stands yourself!), and put rags or sheet plastic on the pads to protect your new paint. Prep
the bare spots and apply the appropriate number of coats. Save a little paint to slap on the
areas on the bottom of the keel you can't get to until the boat is lifted.
Prop and Shaft
You can paint the prop if you like, but copper-based paint won't stay on a bronze prop (nor
bronze rudders and struts) for long. Prop paints are available, but demanding prep--up to
four prime coats--discourages their use. A heavy coat of wax on the prop will keep it clean
for a time.
Don't paint the shaft, and be sure you leave all anodes unpainted. If you are installing new
anodes--a good idea--make certain you don't paint over their mounting locations. Good
electrical contact is essential for anodes to do their job. Let bottom paint dry at least
overnight before you put masking tape on it to paint the bootstripe. Get hard bottom paint
into the water within the time specified on the label.

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Recipe of the Month

Guinness Corned Beef
INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (150

degrees C). Rinse the beef completely
and pat dry.

2. Place the brisket on rack in a roasting

pan or Dutch oven. Rub the brown sugar
on the corned beef to coat entire beef,
including the bottom. Pour the bottle of
stout beer around, and gently over the
beef to wet the sugar.

3. Cover, and place in preheated oven. Bake for 2 1/2 hours. Allow to rest 5
minutes before slicing.

INGREDIENTS

4 pounds corned beef brisket

1 (12 fluid ounce) can or bottle Irish stout
1 cup brown sugar
beer (e.g. Guinness®)

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Should We Bring a Water Rodeo to the Merrimack?

Boat Docking also known as the Water Rodeo is considered a water sport in
which work boats and charter boats compete within their divisions to go from
point “A” to get to point “B” and execute a task of tie/lasso of poles for a
timed competition. They compete for cash, prizes, trophies and of course
bragging rights. These runs are filled with captains of all ages with some of our
youngest captains as young as age 10. A water rodeo is an absolute
spectacular to witness and there is truly never a dull moment!!

Check out Chesapeake Cowboys Boat Docking here.

Watch videos here!

Ask Us About Our Warranties!

BRP/EVINRUDE 10 year warranty or 5 year plus some free rigging components

Yamaha 3 + 2 warranty

Mercury 3 + 2 warranty

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