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DOI 10.1007/s12393-017-9164-8
REVIEW ARTICLE
Abstract Through an extensive literature review, includ- from the relationships established throughout the value
ing scientific publications and organizational reports of chain in which it operates.
food processing companies, our main goal in this paper
is to identify the trajectory of the food industry and pro- Keywords Paradigm shifts . Value added . Relationship .
cessing technology from its birth in the nineteenth century Food chain . Shared value
to the present time. In this paper, the following questions
are addressed: How have we got here? And where are we
going? In essence, this review perceives three main para- Introduction
digm shifts in the food industry, supported by four main
knowledge development cycles of Food Science and Throughout the evolution witnessed during the last two cen-
Technology. Furthermore, this paper also surmises that turies of the food industry history, the search for safe and
we are now at the most challenging moment considering healthy foods continues to drive the development of this sec-
the two centuries of history of the food industry. Despite tor, as well as scientific knowledge of the field, but through a
an unquestionable technological development, while en- new and more complex context [56].
suring the scale production of microbiologically safe, nu- This context reveals new opportunities that can no longer
tritious, and appealing foods, the industry has apparently be overlooked by the food industry, and requires a reposi-
not effectively engaged its stakeholders. Particularly, the tioning of the processing sector—the third in less than two
industry needs to improve its approach towards the con- centuries of existence, and perhaps the most complex experi-
sumer. The contemporary challenging situation outside enced so far.
the box urges the development of new processes and tech- This paper is particularly interested in understanding the
nologies considering present-day consumption drivers as- food industry and the trajectories of processing technology,
sociated with processed food. This is important for the in a critical viewpoint and historical approach, while
industry to reinvent itself so as to understand that more discussing perspectives of what can be expect in the following
than creating textures, the opportunity is also to preserve chapters of this exciting story. In other words, it may lead
and enhance attributes derived from the raw material and people to understand more about the food they eat, besides
helping the general public (including politicians) to recognize
Alberto M. Sereno died before publication of this work was completed. misinformation, since they would understand a little more
about food and food processing.
* Vivian Lara Silva To broaden the discussion, this paper provides a fresh and
vivianlara@usp.br attractive approach by combining and comparing in parallel
the progress achieved in the food science and technology do-
1
Food Engineering Department, University of Sao Paulo (FZEA/ main with cocoa processing. This comparison highlights the
USP), Av. Duque de Caxias Norte, 225, irreversible process that seems to be approaching, i.e., the
Pirassununga, SP 13635-900, Brazil relevance of social drivers on future advances of food tech-
2
Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, Porto, Portugal nology dynamics.
Food Eng Rev
Furthermore, with the industrial revolution, the food process- attracted to chocolate as a strategic energy source due to its
ing industry faced a modification of its energy matrix (from logistic facility. Indeed, it was due to war strategies that Joseph
wood to coal and steam), as well as of its production paradigm Fry & Sons became the exclusive supplier of the British Royal
(substituting artisanal production for industrialized large-scale Navy. In 1919, the company was merged with Cadbury busi-
continuous production lines and machinery). nesses. Through further mergers and acquisitions, Cadbury
A significant gain in productivity in manufacturing activi- launched itself in the chocolate bar market, maintaining sup-
ties ensued [64], stimulating new technological developments ply contracts with the British government [15].
in food processing, which led to an proliferation of new prod- Notwithstanding, companies had to face the challenge of
ucts and businesses, and giving rise to some of the most im- creating a heat-resistant product that was also unattractive to
portant contemporary brands such as Cadbury (1831), Knorr troops, in order to postpone consumption for occasions with
(1838), Lindt (1845), Nestlé (1866), Campbell (1869), food restriction. With this demand, the United States Armed
Hershey’s (1876), Quaker (1877), Swift (1878), Coca-Cola Forces requested Hershey’s to develop a product that was
(1886), Hormel (1891), and Kellogg’s (1896) (see Table 1). deliberately sensorially unappealing. The request specified
As observed during the birth of the food industry in the Ba bar weighing about four ounces, able to withstand high
early nineteenth century, the first boom was similarly stimu- temperatures, high in food energy value, and tasting just a
lated by war interests, extending up to the early twentieth little better than a boiled potato^ [30]. This was the technical
century. This growth unfolded into another important mile- specification made in 1937 by the United States Armed Forces
stone for the sector’s development. Since war motivated food commander to the Hershey’s company. The result was the
processing to ensure availability and integrity, other qualities, development of the BRation D,^ an extremely hard product
such as sensorial attributes, were not included in the develop- consisting of a chocolate bar with six tablets that would crum-
ment process. Evidently, the origin of the food processing ble with some effort and was resistant to temperatures of
industry was not limited to war interests; therefore, several 120 °F (49 °C) [30].
brands emerged that have no connection to this unfortunate Simultaneously, the history of the Mars company also goes
period for humanity. Notwithstanding, it is also true that the back to the battlefields. In this case, its designer was inspired
war influenced, directly or indirectly, many projects that arose by a chocolate-based product that composed a ration during
regarding, for instance, the design of deliberately unpalatable the Spanish Civil War (from 1936 to 1939). This product
products. The main goal was to postpone consumption strictly consisted of an energy source in the form of sugar-coated
to times of energy source shortage. The chocolate industry is pastilles, which provided greater heat resistance [46, 48]. In
an emblematic case, as discussed in detail in the next section. 1940, in the USA, the Mars company was founded, dedicated
to the production of a similar chocolate to the one found in
Chocolate and War Spain, since then named M&M’s, a reference to the surnames
of its founder and partner, respectively, Mars and Murrie. The
The first chocolate bar record dates to 1847, when Joseph Fry applicability of supplying American troops was almost imme-
accidentally extracted cocoa butter, which was mixed with diate, as the product was employed in troop rations during
cocoa powder and sugar, forming a Bmoldable paste.^ With World War II, from 1939 to 1945 [46, 48].
this invention, Fry opened the first known chocolate bar fac- Perhaps influenced by the relatively better flavor of the
tory, named Fry and Sons [15]. sugar-coated M&M’s candies, the American army surren-
This new and emerging industrial segment benefited from dered to their troop’s complaints regarding the excessive bit-
other technological advances. The first was the invention of the terness of Hershey’s chocolate in 1943. The United States
hydraulic press by Conrad Van Houten in 1828, providing more Armed Forces soon demanded from Hershey’s a more palat-
efficiency to the extraction of cocoa butter and powder [66]. able chocolate bar, provided that it did not affect the product’s
Later, the search of Swiss confectioner Daniel Peter for a prod- physical resistance to heat. This moment led to the launch of a
uct with a more pleasant taste motivated the already established product that would put the company in history’s hall of fame:
entrepreneur Henri Nestlé. From this partnership, the world was BHershey’s tropical chocolate,^ with sales that surpassed pre-
presented with the first milk chocolate bar in 1875. Lastly, vious records in transactions with the United States
another invention would mark history in 1879, i.e., the Government [13].
conching technique, developed by Rodolphe Lindt [66]. This Figures concerning this moment are significant. In 1939,
context culminated with the origin of some of the most well- around 100,000 units were produced daily. In 1945, with the
known brands to date, which were precursors of the rising seg- introduction of Hershey’s tropical chocolate, production was
ment in the food industry, such as Cadbury (1831), Lindt estimated as 24 million units per week [13]. Throughout the
(1845), Hershey’s (1876), and Nestlé, as shown in Table 1. World War II period, volume was said to have exceeded three
Nevertheless, war interests partially divided the sector’s billion units, distributed to troops in combat [13]. It was an
initial path, since governments and their Armed Forces were indication that new times were approaching in terms of
Food Eng Rev
efforts to improve production and efficiency. Production eventually led the food processing industry to a new moment
was altered from batch to continuous, with investments in of reprogramming, the second in its history. This moment was
process reliability and the study of new energy sources, registered in the late 1980s, when the food processing industry
resulting in waste reduction and generation of energy began to contemplate health and fitness differentiators in its
through utilization of industrial waste [12]. Investments products. The new demand gained momentum throughout the
made by second level industries led to a concentration 1990s, supported by the third cycle of investments in products
due to mergers and acquisitions as a strategy for eliminat- and processes.
ing competitors and increasing scale and scope economies The emphasis of the industry was now on the replacement
in processing, logistics, and marketing. or removal of ingredients and on the addition of nutrients and
In the late 1970s, a second cycle of scientific development supplements [12],3 categories that would later be designated
in food processing began, focusing on milder processes that as reformulations. Moreover, functional products originated in
enhanced nutritional and sensorial characteristics of raw ma- this period and spread globally, becoming a reality in super-
terials. In this phase, the sector became interested in consumer market shelves worldwide.
studies, especially in sensorial analysis and the packaging in- An icon of this stage in chronology is the commercial focus
dustry, with new materials and designs. At this moment in on functional yogurts, soft drinks in light and diet versions,
history, the industry was consolidated as a food supplier, mi- snacks enriched with fiber and differentiated in terms of pro-
grating from the Bmake^ to the Bservice^ era [12]. During this cessing, and baby food reformulations, with reduced salt and
period, comprising 1950 and 1970, the first Food Engineering no added sugar, establishing a new generation of classic proc-
books appeared, helping industries in their scientific and tech- essed foods. As a result of four cycles of investment on re-
nological development (see Table 2). search and development, the differentiation movement of
Regarding the significant technological advances processed food highlighted the relevance of systemic thinking
concerning milder processing, effective application and dis- regarding the value chain involved in the processing of raw
semination of new knowledge seems to have been postponed materials into final products. According to Bruin and Jongen
when analyzing the development of the food processing in- [12]4: BThe more the food industry moves to include service
dustry in its first phase of reprogramming. In fact, what was and care, the more effective its make sector must become in
witnessed was the emphasis on engineering deliberately pal- order to keep economic margins. This implies very effective
atable formulations regardless of milder processing technolo- value chain management. […] The major challenge is to de-
gies. The attractiveness of a product was enhanced with pack- liver to consumers branded products that satisfy consumer’s
aging and marketing strategies under the orientation that needs through the various stages of an optimum supply chain.
would mark an entire generation [64]. With this orientation, This means a supply chain with short lead times […] in
the 1980s represented the peak of an explosion of flavors, customer/consumer demands, with lower stocks and mini-
colors, textures, options, and formats of processed food, dis- mum off-spec products and minimum waste/by-products.^
seminated in the everyday lives of families as a convenient In this discussion, the Food Science and Technology field
and affordable option of attractive and tasty food. has awakened to consider that organizational competitiveness
Once again, the development path of the chocolate industry transcends firm boundaries. The capacity of the food industry
illustrates the development of the food processing industry in to give more efficient answers to business opportunities (with
general. Throughout the period that marked the first two cy- a reduced lead time and lower costs) became related—with
cles, and, in some ways, the third cycle that was yet to happen, greater intensity—to the coordination of activities developed
which is the chocolate industry that specialized in supplying by other sectors throughout the value chain.
an attractive and tasty product regardless of the quantity and This, in turn, brought on continuous planning with commer-
quality of its essential raw material, cocoa. In fact, formula- cial partners, upstream and downstream, by management of
tions were based mainly on other ingredients, such as sugar,
hydrogenated fat, and milk. As an example, milk chocolate 3
Once more, the role of other protagonists should not be forgotten. Institutions
was strategic to the industry and became a market success, had—and still have—important roles due to their regulation. For instance, in
June 2015, the agency that regulates foods and drugs in the USA, the FDA
supplying flavor at a smaller cost. (Food and Drug Administration), banned the use of trans fats in the American
In addition to chocolate, other products also illustrate this market, stipulating 3 years for the adjustment of the processing sector, remov-
moment in history, such as soft drinks, non-carbonated bever- ing the substance completely from industrialized foods and beverages. In
Brazil, although there is no specific regulation, the Ministry of Health and
ages (powdered, concentrated, or ready-to-consume versions),
the ABIA (Brazilian Association of Food Industry) established a combined
and snacks (cookies, crackers, and chips). Furthermore, baby effort to reduce trans fats content in 2007. The arrangement limits trans fats to
food was also influenced and deliberately formulated to in- 5% of the total fat in processed foods and to 2% of the total fat in oils and
margarines.
crease attractiveness and enhance acceptance. However, the 4
The dissemination of Information Technology applied to the business world
supply of easy and quick accessible flavor, within arm’s reach fomented the search:Be-commerce will be applied to the hilt in order to achieve
and without the same concern for nutritional aspects, this optimum^ [12].
Food Eng Rev
Objective Reference
This review examined the factors that influence flavor volatiles of cocoa beans and the volume of work that needs to be done on Kongor et al. [34]
these factors and their impact on the flavor volatiles of commercial cocoa beans.
This paper provides an overview on cocoa flavor from a compositional and a sensory perspective. The nonvolatile and volatile Aprotosoaie et al. [5]
chemical components of cocoa and chocolate flavor, and their sensory properties correlated to the main influences involved
in flavor formation, are reviewed.
This review deals with the growth of fungal species and formation of mycotoxins during the various steps in cocoa processing, Copetti et al. [16]
as well as reduction of these contaminants by good processing practices. Methodologies for fungal and mycotoxin detection
and quantification are discussed while current data about dietary exposure and regulation are also presented.
This paper details the governing mechanisms of sonocrystallization. Proven and potential applications of the process in foods Deora et al. [17]
are reviewed including chocolate, honey, fats and frozen foods. Challenges of process adoption such as scale-up are
discussed.
The rheological behavior of chocolate can help to know the characteristics of application of the product and its consumers. Goncalves and Lannes
Foods are generally in a metastable state. Their texture depends on the structural changes that occur during processing. [26]
Molten chocolate is a suspension with properties that are strongly affected by particle characteristics including not only the
dispersed particles but also the fat crystals formed during chocolate cooling and solidification. Chocolate rheology is
extensively studied, and it is known that chocolate texture and stability is strongly affected by the presence of specific
crystals.
The extent to which the inherent bean constituents from the cocoa genotype, environmental factors, post-harvest treatment, and Afoakwa et al. [2]
processing technologies influence chocolate flavor formation and relationships with final flavor quality, has not been clear.
With increasing speciality niche products in chocolate confectionery, greater understanding of factors contributing to the
variations in flavor character would have significant commercial implications.
Central to chocolate quality is an appropriate melting behavior so that products are solid at ambient temperature and on Afoakwa et al. [1]
ingestion melt to undergo dissolution in oral saliva, with a final assessment of texture after phase inversion. Particle size
distribution and ingredient composition play important roles in shaping its rheological behavior and sensory perception but
are poorly understood.
After a brief review of chocolates and compound coatings, we summarize past studies on fat bloom formation in both products. Lonchampt and Hartel
A comparison of the effects of various parameters on bloom formation, either as accelerators or inhibitors, provides insight [42]
into the similarities and differences in these phenomena. Based on this analysis, a global view of the mechanisms of bloom
formation in both chocolates and compound coatings is suggested.
This paper reviews the identification of the various levels of structure present in fat crystal networks, and the development of Narine and Marangoni
analytical techniques to quantify these levels. The relationship of the various levels of structure to macroscopic physical [49]
indicators of the mechanical strength of the network is discussed. The analysis of the microstructural level of the network via
fractal geometrical methods is discussed, as well as mechanical models relating the structure to mechanical properties.
From the harvesting of the cocoa beans to the formulation of the final chocolate product many complex changes occur. The Dimick and Hoskin
properties and behavior of the fat and the dramatic change in flow characteristics are most notable. These changes occur in [18]
part during the refining process which includes roasting, winnowing, grinding, and conching. Most notable in influencing the
product is conching which is the agitation of chocolate coupled with aeration and heat.
different inherent flows, particularly informational, physical context led the processing food sector to a new moment of
(product), financial (monetary), and negotiation (see Fig. 1). change, the third in less than half a century.
We have reached the early 2000s, when the challenge faced
by the food industry seemed fully serviced. The two moments
of reprogramming that occurred in the early 1950s, from post-
war to the new millennium, have been structured in four devel- Where We Are
opment cycles of Food Science and Technology knowledge,
culminating with the capacity to supply more complex food In contrast to the technological development registered be-
products, and contemplating safety, shelf life, convenience, fla- tween 1950 and 2000, the widespread rejection of processing
vor, nutrition, and health. This seemed to be the golden ticket and ingredient composition utilized by the food processing
that would allow the food industry to make peace with its con- industry is now a worldwide trend [56, 64, 65]. In fact, despite
sumer. Regarding this matter, Aguilera [3] notes, BThe merit of the big scientific and technological achievements in the pro-
the food industry of the 20th century was scaling-up processes duction of food, human well-being has not been served to a
developed by artisans into manufacturing lines that consistently satisfactory extent. Millions of people are literally killing
produced thousands of units per hour of microbiologically safe, themselves by excessive eating or wrong use of food, leading
nutritious and appealing foods^ [3]. to obesity and nutrition-related diseases [40]. The extremists
Nevertheless, history was far from over, as the consumer’s of this trend do not recognize the product supplied by the
appetite was influenced by new drivers [24]. Once more, this industry as food, intoning the following as an emblematic
Food Eng Rev
statement of the movement: BDon’t eat anything your great Second, all natural, not always safe [21, 64]. Consumers
grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food^ [53]. are often at risk when indiscriminately consuming medic-
This trend quite literally feeds the demand for products that inal herb infusions, for example. The presence of toxins
are not considered processed. The categories of organic and in the composition of unprocessed products, such as me-
whole foods are an example, as processed foods gain responsi- dicinal herbs, requires meticulous control in the way of
bility over global food-related illnesses, particularly obesity and preparation/consumption (dry or fresh herbs, leaves, or
cardiovascular diseases [40, 56]. Despite the need for research flowers) and cultivation (soil, pesticide use, and harvest
related to all perspectives [56, 64, 65], the controversy is period, among others), processing. Precautions are essen-
established to the extent that some remarks should be consid- tial for consumer safety and can be assured through food
ered on the critical view of processed foods, especially processing.
concerning what is usually disregarded in the discussion of food Third, a source of numerous benefits to the consumer and
processing. Regarding the matter, we discuss three main topics. society [21]. As highlighted by Nelson8: BIf you teach a
person how to process food, you can feed a village^ [65].
First, understanding the concept and the scope of food Besides safety, healthy, preservation, availability and
processing. Commonly, additional factors are considered convenience, food processing ensures quality [21, 51].
when analyzing processed food, such as methods of cul- Take, for instance, food freezing, which, associated with
tivation, as well as the quality of relationships maintained convenience in preparation and consumption, controlling
between companies and their suppliers. As an example, the seasonality of the food supply works at the same time
organic products are often interpreted as comparatively as an energy source, while preserving vitamins and min-
less processed and, therefore, healthier [64]. Considering erals [64]. In that view, a study designed to assess the
the same logic, the consumer often perceives fair trade5 or health and nutritional status of adults and children in the
local cooperative products as healthier alternatives, due to USA is evidence that processed foods assume a dual role
the perceived lower level of processing.6 However, cer- in the daily diet, i.e., encouraging minimum consumption
tificates such as fair trade, in addition to various others of certain nutrients important for health, while contribut-
like halal, kosher, vegan, and demeter,7 refer to issues that ing to the reduction or control of nutrients that can be
transcend industrial processing in terms of the utilized harmful when consumed in excess [65].9
sequence of unit operations and the characterization or
transformation level of each step. Indeed, every industry But the food industry’s contribution goes further, also in-
that uses a certain level of processing, whether simple or cluding sustainability aspects [21]. Quality standards associ-
complex, with unit or sequential operations, should be ated with food processing brands have caused significant de-
understood as a processing industry. Acquisition of raw velopment of agricultural systems in producing countries,
materials, origin certification, first level processing which are usually developing economies [54]. One of these
(cleaning and selection), packaging, distribution, and standards is related to the maximum utilization of all raw
commercialization intrinsically represent activities per- materials produced and the integration of activities throughout
formed by food processing industries [21]. As a conse- all stages of the food supply chain [21]. Improvements in food
quence of this scope, the food industry has a huge eco- processing can help to alleviate problems of under- and mal-
nomic role in terms of generation of annual sales turnover nutrition, while reducing food wastage and better ensuring an
and job opportunities, revealing itself as a major sector adequate food supply as world consumption grows [45, 65].
for the growth of global economies [3]. The debate is open. New and ongoing studies on the role of
processed food in health need to be encouraged [65].
5 8
The precept of fair trade aims to promote sustainable development through Philip E. Nelson was honored in 2007 with the World Food Prize.
better trading conditions and through the guarantee of rights for producers and Considered the Nobel Prize in Food and Agriculture, this distinction aims to
workers on the margin of the economic system. recognize and inspire innovative achievements that ensure global food securi-
6
Zylbersztajn and Farina [68] broaden the discussion, highlighting the fragil- ty. More information at: <http://www.worldfoodprize.org/>.
9
ity characteristic to the governance of complex production systems, such as in Regarding the daily values of the American diet, processed foods contribute
the case of organic foods and the information credibility associated with the 55% of fiber intake, 48% of calcium, 43% of potassium, 34% of vitamin D,
product. 64% of iron, 65% of folic acid, and 46% of vitamin B12. In turn, efforts
7
Halal and kosher, respectively, mean ready-to-consume food in accordance developed by the sector have also contributed to reducing the intake of nutri-
to Islamic and Jewish principles. More information can be obtained at: http:// ents harmful to health. In the USA, processed foods contribute 57% of calorie
www.abiec.com.br/3_hek.asp>. In turn, vegan food denotes a plant-based diet, intake, 52% of saturated fat, 75% of added sugar, and 57% of sodium ([65], p.
free from all animal-derived ingredients; see details at: <http://www. 1525). The conclusion of this study is that the decisive factor for health tran-
sejavegano.com.br/> and <https://www.vegansociety.com/>. Lastly, demeter scends the level of processed food intake, relating directly to food balance [65].
is an international certification originated from the concept of biodynamic Indices are probably currently lower. The study was conducted prior to the
agriculture, which can be understood as an evolution of the organic initiative for reducing these ingredients. For more information, see
principle. Additional information can be found at: <http://demeter.com.br/>. International Food and Beverage Alliance (https://ifballiance.org/).
Food Eng Rev
4th Cycle
2nd Cycle
3rd Cycle
1st Cycle
Technology (FS&T) and the three
moments of industry Ground Zero
reprogramming
WELL-BEING
FLAVOR
HEALTH
Shelf life (integrity and stability)
and food safety
(microbiological control)
Notwithstanding, it seems to be equally important not to side- several existing products have to be redesigned and new prod-
line the relevance of food processing as well as the advances ucts will need to be created to satisfy this demand^ [3].
made in the Food Science and Technology field throughout Overcoming yet another moment of reprogramming faced
the last six decades. by the industry requires the development of new technologies
At least partially, the distorted bias related to processed [28], particularly those transgressing the paradigm of process
food seems to be aggravated by the lack of transparency engineering at the expense of product engineering [3, 12].
from the industry and the consumer’s non-familiarity with This, in turn, demands broader and more interdisciplinary sci-
technical terminology [64], feeding the global trend con- entific knowledge, including techniques such as nanotechnol-
trary to processed food consumption. Considering the dis- ogy, molecular gastronomy, and simulation of the digestive
cussion led so far, it seems that the sector has not proven process [3, 56, 67].
to be equally efficient in the articulation with different On that matter, Aguilera [3] highlighted: BFood product
stakeholders. Furthermore, this context culminates in a engineering of the future will be largely based on a wider
new challenge for the food industry, perhaps the most scientific knowledge adopted from other disciplines. The
complex experienced so far. scale of intervention in food fabrication will become in-
Processed food is one of the icons of contemporary society. creasingly closer to that of key structural elements. The
Try, for instance, to idealize a single meal experience without challenge is to link phenomena at the microscale with
the use of a processed, ready- or semi-ready-to-eat food. The products and properties.^ However, it is important to con-
implicit difficulty of doing so for many consumers corrobo- sider that in addition to the development of novel prod-
rates the following analysis: More than half the volume of ucts and processes, the complexity of the contemporary
food sold worldwide is already made in the form of processed context is even more challenging due to the necessity of
food [31]. Nevertheless, despite the technological develop- establishing a new relationship basis between the food
ment witnessed, consumers present difficulties in assimilating processing industry and society. Corroborating this dis-
the real benefits associated with processing, resulting in a cussion, widely recognized international business intelli-
context that leads the food industry to a new moment of gence groups indicate Bbased on a true story^ products as
reprogramming, the third in its history, with expected growth one of the most important trends in consumption of in-
into new product conception. dustrialized foods and beverages in 2016 [47].
We have reached the fourth cycle of investments in Food Stimulated by economic interests, this trend is already a
Science and Technology since the conception of the sector in reality among different economies, whether developed or in
the nineteenth century (see Fig. 2). In fact, an important share development [20]. Nutritious and healthy products are obtain-
of consumers appear to be unsatisfied when it comes to attri- ed and processed through equally healthy stories of the com-
butes provided by the food industry. In other words, the in- pany with its suppliers, particularly in terms of relationships
dustry is facing a major challenge in that the food chain is established with the rural link. Food processing is no longer
reversing and now it is consumers who tell producers what restricted to preserving and ensuring safety, attributes origi-
they want to eat (from fork to farm). nally aimed by the industry as previously discussed.
BThis global tendency is reshaping the food processing Furthermore, processing is not limited to enhancing flavor,
industry into one that provides, in addition to safe and high- favoring convenience, or even contributing to health.
quality foods, products that contribute to the health and well- According to Weaver et al. [65], BPeople buy foods for the
ness of consumers. In practical terms, this trend means that benefits they provide, and how the foods fit into personal and
Food Eng Rev
societal values such as sustainability and environmental energy source composing troop’s ration in war, the choc-
concerns.^ olate, which has also represented the role of villain in
New features associated with processed food grant double diets, has just recently occupied the position of Bsweet-
social responsibility10 [56] to the food processing industry: heart^ due to its functional properties [58].
Consumer health (food safety) and health of the society in Chocolate processing technology has been reviewed and ex-
which the industry operates. This context can no longer be amples of these reviews are presented in Table 3. Nowadays,
disregarded by the Food Science and Technology field and, moderate consumption of chocolate is associated with health
moreover, leads to two findings: first, the understanding that a benefits for the consumer, especially when regarding products
process attractive to academics does not make it capable of with higher cocoa content, in addition to low fat [58]. The most
producing products that improve their marketability or value relevant product in this case is the product promoted by Barry
through the consumers’ eyes [56]; second, the urgent need for Callebaut, whose company received a patent on chocolate pro-
scientific and technological development to be intertwined cessing with 25% reduced fat, in comparison to the conventional
with the social dynamics in which the food processing indus- standard in the industry, of around 36% [23].
try operates [32]. This gives the industry the opportunity to Concerning healthier products, Nestlé invests in no added
differentiate its products while considering environmental artificial colors and flavorings [50]. The company signed an
attributes. organizational commitment in America to remove artificial
Subject to this new paradigm, the supplier ceases to be colors and flavorings recognized by the FDA, such as Red
understood as interchangeable [60], in which cost reduction 40 and Yellow 5, from all of its chocolates and candies [50].
prevails, taking on a crucial role in the creation and support of In turn, Hershey’s invests in the development of a Bclean
competitive advantages in companies. According to Nestlé’s label^ product. According to John P. Bilbrey, Hershey’s
executive vice president of operations: BFood product has a lot President and CEO, an ongoing tendency is to know what’s
of value, also referring to where (and how) it comes^ [44]. in our food [22]. Having this in mind, Hershey’s begins a
Although attractive, this positioning should not be con- transition to using simple and easy-to-understand ingredients
sidered a trivial solution for companies. Satisfying the as a way of sharing more information with consumers about
consumer’s new appetite is dependent on a repositioning its products [22].
of the food processing industry in the value chains in Nonetheless, the investments in the healthiness of a product
which it operates, aligned with the necessity of continu- refer to only a part of the arsenal employed by the chocolate
ous investments in processing technology. Overall, critical industry when considering equally substantial investments
positioning prevails for world leaders (or Bbig players^) in conducted by major industry players, including Hershey’s,
food processing [40] for their responsibility in an environ- Barry Callebaut, and Nestlé, aimed at simultaneously ensuring
mental scope, referring to the conscious use of natural the environmental healthiness of their products. See, for in-
resources, reduction of carbon footprint and deforestation, stance, the Barry Callebaut corporate report, which states that
management of water resources and stimulation of reduc- it is an imperative, not an option, to work to ensure a sustain-
tion, recycling, and reusing principles, for instance, and able chocolate and cocoa supply chain: BWe have a responsi-
moreover, for their responsibility in a social scope, pro- bility to all our stakeholders: cocoa farmers, suppliers, cus-
moting sustainable development, as well as the empower- tomers, consumers, employees, the communities in which
ment of local communities. we operate, and our shareholders^ [7].
Once more, the chocolate segment represents an emblem-
atic case in this discussion, as presented in the following Table 3 Examples of published books on food engineering in the years
1950–1970
section.
Title References
More than a virtue or an organizational detachment, the including statements from Ferrero Rocher, owner of the
double investment (technological and social) of the chocolate Nutella brand, regarding the sustainability of their practices
processing industry must be analyzed under a business per- in the palm supply and oil processing, as well as from
spective because, contrary to the consensus of the functional Greenpeace and governments of several countries, attesting
properties associated with chocolate consumption, controver- to the company’s sustainable positioning and opposing the
sy related to socio-environmental aspects of cocoa production boycott [62]. This context led the French Minister to publicly
have become global issues, a topic discussed in the following apologize, stressing that the progress made by the company
section. cannot be despised. Among the mentioned advances is Ferrero
Rocher’s effort in obtaining sustainable palm oil certification
The Dark Side of Chocolate11 (Round Table on Sustainable Palm Oil, RSPO).
Despite the controversy, while seeking to ensure the socio-
The west of Africa controls over 80% of the global supply of environmental security of supply, the leading cocoa process-
cocoa beans, a volume that represents more than 90% of the ing companies may follow two different paths. The first is to
cocoa consumed in Europe [58]. African representation is turn to other cocoa processing regions, such as particular
mainly driven by two countries, Ivory Coast and Ghana, countries in America. Regarding this perspective, the moment
which account for 59% of the global supply. In turn, Nigeria may point to for Brazil, although the industry still needs to
and Cameroon are responsible for 23%. Additionally, the overcome remnants of the Bwitches’ broom.^ It was only in
Americas, both South and Central, as well as Indonesia, are the early 2000s that production prospects regarding resistance
two important regions in terms of the global supply of cocoa, to varieties of the fungus were created [58]. Moreover, an
each representing around 10% [61]. Until the 1980s, Brazil important milestone would be the employment of a new gen-
retained historical leadership in the global ranking; however, eration of rural producers in Brazilian cocoa farming. The
the activity was affected by a fungus popularly known as second path refers to organizational investments focused on
Bwitches’ broom^ in the 1990s, so that the country now oc- community development and local empowerment programs
cupies the sixth position globally [58]. (education and participation of women), recovery of crops
Global cocoa production is characterized by small-scale (species most resistant to diseases and pests), production cer-
family activity, with fewer than 4 ha, in which aging of crops tification (sustainable agriculture and fair trade), and training
and outdated techniques are pronounced. Furthermore, cocoa of farmers (good practices and property management, based
plantations in Africa are also threatened by the context of on social and environmental issues).
social instability, resulting in scandals involving inhumane
working conditions, child labor, and trafficking [58, 63]. In
2010, social instability was the target of discussion in the Where We Are Going
documentary BThe dark side of chocolate^.12
That same year, 2010, a Greenpeace campaign pioneered This paper does not aim to incite the food processing industry,
the topic of the relationship between palm oil, an ingredient but to highlight relevant aspects of the daily controversies
usually used in the process of chocolate manufacturing, and faced by the sector. Disregarding extreme views of all natures,
deforestation, resulting in the extinction of various animal whether contrary or favorable, one of these aspects is the un-
species. Titled BGive the orangutan a break,^ the Greenpeace deniable effort witnessed in the development of the food pro-
campaign targeted the Kit Kat brand (Nestlé). This was a cessing sector. Throughout the evolution witnessed in almost
milestone in the controversy concerning palm oil, an ingredi- two centuries of the food industry history, the longing for safe
ent that was considered a great hero in the war against trans fat and healthy food continues to drive scientific knowledge and
in the 1990s, but which soon became the villain in the face of the development of the sector, while considering new con-
environmental issues associated with the extraction of its raw texts. It must always be kept in mind that all food-related
material (palm). branches must have one certain goal: to provide proper safe
Another milestone in this direction was the testimony of the and adequate nutrition [35].
French Minister of Ecology, Sustainable Development and In addition to consumer health, contemplating sensory as-
Energy in 2015, calling on the public to stop Nutella con- pects, the industry is challenged with promoting the health of
sumption due to Bmassive deforestation^ from the use of palm society. Nonetheless, it is also undeniable that much remains
oil. The speech resonated in a series of developments, to be done. Further advances must not be perceived as an
organization detachment. Ahead of this process is the consum-
11
Inspired by the eponymous documentary that highlighted this discussion. er, strengthened with the power of instantly exchanging infor-
Directed by Miki Mistrati and Roberto Romano, the documentary addresses
mation through social networking and with an increasingly
the controversy regarding child labor and human trafficking in cocoa crops.
12
The complete documentary is available at: <https://www.youtube.com/ broader food supply, substantiated by retail shelves that dis-
watch?v=7Vfbv6hNeng>. play food with health and well-being appeal. Whether in
Food Eng Rev
cocoa and chocolate production or in food processing in gen- unexplored scientific domain, food science and technology
eral, effectively adapting and adjusting to product conceptions can no longer disregard the optics developed in this paper. A
that are more consistent with social pressure represents an provocation substantiated as a real demand in retail shelves,
important business for the food processing industry. BToday where consumers appreciate—and pay a premium price for—
and in the future, the food system must be flexible and resil- a product with value originated from a company presenting a
ient, consumer-driven, and sustainable, and it must secure the real and healthy story shared with the stakeholders in its value
environment and natural resources and assure the health and chain, B[t]he challenging context [is] outside the box^ [59],
wellness of an increasing number of consumers^ [21]. which induces a rethinking of technologies and a social posi-
In view of this, much is currently being discussed in the tioning of a food processing company in its value chain.
literature concerning where we are going in terms of the future To conclude, food ethics and human concerns should not
of scientific knowledge in food processing and engineering. be forgotten by the industry, which must associate sustainabil-
For some researchers, we are headed for the worst of times. ity and innovation strategies as an important pillar for the
In this critical and pessimistic view, the golden age of the field development of food and food processing. The impact of re-
occurred between 1950 and 1975, respectively the first and thinking processes, products, and packaging considering so-
second cycle of scientific development, whereas subsequent cial, environmental, and economic impacts on the value chain
cycles are less relevant. This understanding provocatively must be considered. The industry needs to regain consumer
suggests that the field should look fondly at its past glories. confidence.
In contrast, other researchers have attributed a more opti- It is necessary to consider that the development of products
mistic view for the current scenario, believing that the best is and processes must be embedded in the premise that part of
yet to come. This discussion is particularly marked by what the value of the final product also comes from the relations—
has been conceived as the age of Benginomics^ [56], a term sustainable in time—of the industry with its suppliers (no
designated to convey the importance of scientific and techno- longer understandable as interchangeable), besides consumers
logical development to the social dynamics in which the in- and other stakeholders. This constitutes a direct deployment to
dustry operates, considering emerging trends such as health Food Science and Technology and its professionals, with a
and well-being. For these researchers, the attractiveness and provocation: as important as product and process engineering
relevance of what is yet to come is related to interdisciplinary seems to be the relationship engineering, strategies for certifi-
knowledge. In fact, topics such as the possible connection cation of origin, green certificates, as well as social empower-
between food processing and molecular signaling, new ap- ment, animal welfare, etc., suggest the relevance of better
proaches and processes required for addressing information qualifying the professionals and reviewing the technological
and special needs emerging from DNA knowledge, paradigms of the sector.
nutrigenomics, personalization, health and wellness, obesity,
aging, Intent of Things (IoT), big data, and cloud computing
are only a few potential issues for future scenarios. Conclusions
If engineers have mainly focused on the technical and eco-
nomic feasibilities of systems design in the past, in the future, More than an extensive literature review, in this critical and
they will have the responsibility to address an entire spectrum passionate insight source we discussed past and future pros-
of aspects [4], such as innovation, partnerships, creativity, pects, sharing an optimistic view considering the two different
entrepreneurship, sustainability, economic environment, so- paths that the industry may lead due to a new consumer’s
cial responsibility, population growth, and aging [55]. In this appetite: to create novel products benefiting from important
direction, a rich and fruitful development is still expected due knowledge in product and process engineering, but also to
to important investments and already pronounced results, conceive new opportunities in industrialized food, harmoniz-
aligning food engineering with interdisciplinary knowledge ing technology advances with the relationships established by
in medicine, molecular gastronomy, nanotechnology, and a company and its consumers and other stakeholders. In a
novel materials, among other spheres of the scientific domain. pessimistic or optimistic view, social drivers should be con-
Furthermore, this future is not distant, even when considering sidered in future advances in the food technology dynamics,
developing economies. For instance, genetic sequencing can anticipating an inevitably exciting future ahead.
be ordered online for an estimated value below 300 dollars,
suggesting that the outspread of customized foods tailored to Acknowledgements We would like to thank our anonymous Referees
genetic characteristics and different lifestyles may become for their care regarding our manuscript and for their valuable comments for
viable, influencing the dynamics of processing technologies improving the paper. Special thanks also to Carmen S. F. Trindade (Assoc.
Prof., FZEA/USP), Miriam D. Hubinger (Full Prof., UNICAMP), Cynthia
in the near future.
Ditchfield (Assist. Prof., FZEA/USP), as weel to Marcia G. Kasemodel
Nevertheless, the future holds what appears to be even (Graduate Student in Food Engineering, FZEA/USP) for their comments,
more investigation. In addition to taming the fields of suggestions, and technical assistance. Additionally, we would like to thank
Food Eng Rev
the Center for Organization Studies (CORS), as well as the Group of Sebranek JG, Shewfelt RL, Tracy WF, Weaver CM, Ziegle GR
Studies and Research on Strategy and Vertical Coordination (GEPEC), (2010) Feeding the world today and tomorrow: the importance of
for providing a rich environment for the development of this research. food science and technology. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf. doi:
Finally, the authors acknowledge the São Paulo Research Foundation 10.1111/j.1541-4337.2010.00127.x
(FAPESP) for both their financial support (CEPID FoRC 13/07914-8) 22. Food Engineering (2015) Hershey transitions to simple, easy-to-
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as the Brazilian National Council for Scientific and Technological foodengineeringmag.com/articles/93551-hershey-transitions-to-
Development (CNPq) for the Research fellowship of Paulo J.A. Sobral. simple-easy-to-understand-ingredients. Accessed 19 Jun 2015
23. Food Ingredients First (2015) Barry Callebaut to achieve reduced
fat chocolate. http://www.foodingredientsfirst.com/news/Barry-
Callebaut-to-Achieve-Reduced-Fat-Chocolate.html. Accessed 19
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