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+REE lAtes 8 CoaStal MakEs

for the Home


F r TemP
PapE
Make u
s!

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC ISSUE TWENTY EIGHT

NEW! THE FOLD LINE


children's
clothes
The jenny
sew in a day! dress and top
IN SIZES 6-20

5 new OutFits
to sew TodAy!

easy living
ISSUE 28
PRINTED IN THE UK • £5.99

Fresh new patterns for casual everyday style


HOW TO: Sew with knit fabrics Crewel embroidery Beginner patchwork Covered piping
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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

Well, thank goodness summer is finally on its


way! We’re dreaming up all sorts of wonderful
travel-inspired makes for easy summer living.
We’re refreshing our laundry room with coastal
fabrics (anything to make it more enjoyable,
right?), adding nautical-inspired prints to our
wardrobe and sewing summery Liberty print
floral scarves for our friends (that’s their
birthday gifts sorted!). Share your makes
using #simplysewingmag
ISSUE TWENTY EIGHT

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC CONTENTS Make a drawstrp1in8g


laundry bag,

P18
PROJECTS
TO SEW
FOR LAUNDRY DAY

Make The Fo
Line’s Jenny Dld
re
and Top, p32 ss

grEat pAtterNs foR you how To...

58 meEt blOgger and PatterN 18 LAUNDRY ROOM ACCESSORIES 65 ESSENTIAL SKILLS


32 THE JENNY DRESS AND TOP Add covered piping to your projects
DesigneR seW caRolinE 38 LIBERTY MAKES 87 WORKSHOP: CREWEL
44 PENCIL SKIRT AND OBI BELT EMBROIDERY
50 REFASHION: LACE SWEATSHIRT Learn the technique and embroider
53 DENIM UPCYCLE: NECKLACE a cardigan with floral motifs
55 TRANSFORM IT: CABLE KNIT 91 SEWING GUIDE
CUSHION COVERS Tips, techniques
63 FAST FAT QUARTER: APRON and a glossary
67 BENCH CUSHION
75 GIRL’S SUMMER DRESS
79 BUDGIE SOFT TOY Se wa you r child
83 BEDSIDE STORAGE
a new feathered
friend, p79
CongrAtulaTions!
As I write this letter
we’re still riding
high from hosting
The British Craft
Awards, an event
which saw 21,500 readers cast
their votes for their favourite
designers, sewists, bloggers,
shops, and more! This year
a brand new sewing category

50
was added (yay!) so thank you
to everyone who voted, and

44
congratulations to our winners.
It was a fabulous evening and
really inspiring to meet so
many talented people. See for
yourself on page 70. Enjoy!
win a £250 BunDle Charlie Moorby, Editor

of DenIm FabRiC!
Enter today to win a £250 fabric ps: get BonUs lIbeRty FabRics
and pattern bundle from The when you subscribe (see p36)
Denim Company, p17

55 75
goOd readS & ideaS
9 PINBOARD: Ideas, events, new fabric
17 WIN: £250 denim bundle
42 COLUMN: TILLY WALNES
49 PINUP: RETRO SUEDE SKIRT
17
58 PROFILE: SEW CAROLINE
70 FEATURE: BRITISH CRAFT AWARDS
97 COMING UP NEXT MONTH
98 MY FAVOURITE THING
* FREE PATTERNS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND

+REE Ates 8 CoaStal MakEs


for the Home
F r TemPl Make us!

PapE

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC


NEW! THE FOLD LINE
ISSUE TWENTY EIGHT

GREAT SUBS
children's
clothes
The jenny OFFERS! P18
sew in a day! dress and top
SAVE TIME,
IN SIZES 6-20

87
MONEY AND
5 new OutFits
to sew TodAy!
HASSLE WITH
easy living AN ANNUAL
ISSUE 28
PRINTED IN THE UK • £5.99

SUBSCRIPTION
Fresh new patterns for casual everyday style
HOW TO: Sew with knit fabrics Crewel embroidery Beginner patchwork Covered piping
CONTRIBUTORS
A big round of applause for these clever crafters... FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

EDITORIAL
EDITOR Charlie Moorby
ART EDITOR Lisa Jones
TECHNICAL EDITOR Rebecca Reid
PRODUCTION EDITOR Michelle Grady
DIGITAL EDITOR Zoe Williams
FEATURES WRITER Judy Darley
PHOTOGRAPHER Philip Sowels

ADVERTISING
Call 0117 300 8206
SENIOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Penny Stokes
SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Tiffany Jackson
CLIENT PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Beckie Pring

MARKETING & CIRCULATION


SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Jacky Perales-Morris
sewing, “Find more of my projects and
ember nort e fabric!” DIRECT MARKETING EXECUTIVE Lily Nguyen
“I can’t rem
do need m
o tips at www.madepeachy.com” HEAD OF NEWSTRADE MARKETING Natalie Shearer
and yes, I NEWSTRADE MARKETING MANAGER Janine Smith

BUYING
JESSICA ENTWISTLE LAURA STRUTT Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup
Regular Simply Sewing contributor Jessica makes Laura Strutt is an author and textile designer who PRODUCTION
everything from hair slides to badges for her craft enjoys all aspects of sewing, from dressmaking JUNIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Lily Owens-Crossman
sideline ‘jellybgood’. She shows you how to sew to quilting, embroidery to customising and PRODUCTION MANAGER Sîan Rodgers / Emma McGuinness
an infinity scarf and patchwork cushion with this everything in between. She shares a simple girl’s PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Powell
month’s subscriber Liberty fabric on page 38. dress project from her latest book on page 75.
LICENSING
DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL LICENSING
& SYNDICATION MANAGER
Tim Hudson tim.hudson@immediate.co.uk
INTERNATIONAL PARTNERS MANAGER
Anna Brown anna.brown@immediate.co.uk

PUBLISHING
PUBLISHER Liz Taylor
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Bureau
MANAGING DIRECTOR, BRISTOL Andy Marshall

DISTRIBUTION
FRONTLINE Call +44 (0)1733 555161

PRINTED IN THE UK
BY WILLIAM GIBBONS

“Little did I know my passion “Watch my tutorial


would become my full-time job!” www.sewingquartesr.conline at NEED TO GET IN TOUCH
om” EDITORIAL TEAM
simplysewing@immediate.co.uk
SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM
PAULINE GUILLET JO CARTER simplysewing@servicehelpline.co.uk
0844 844 0386
French designer Pauline Guillet, aka Pauline Jo worked for 10 years as a soft toy designer and
Alice, started sewing her own clothes when she is now a regular presenter on Immediate Media’s
needed a hobby after moving to Spain, and set new sewing channel, Sewing Quarter – watch NEXT ISSUE ON SALE
up her own pattern brand in 2013. Admire her online at www.sewingquarter.com. She shows THURSDAY 20TH APRIL 2017
stunning handmade wedding dress on page 98. you how to make a budgie plushie on page 79. No gift included? Ask your newsagent.
Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS
Karen Ball, Brother Sewing, CICO Books, Samantha Claridge, The Fold Line, Groves, Caroline Hulse, Janome,
Jennie Jones, Portia Lawrie, R&B Designs, Sew Over It, Debbie Shore, Singer, Tilly Walnes, Rosee Woodland
Special thanks to: Sarah Malone

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Petite
Introducing the Fold Away Petite - Dunster Edition fold
small but perfectly formed! With a small footprint away
when closed and a folding work table there is a
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in
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§ Choice of storage
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§ Cable access to enable
integrated power
§ Optional built in
132cm / 52 in

lighting pack

Regular Price £995


(excluding delivery and lighting kit)

Magazine Offer
£850 (SAVE £145)
Mainland UK delivery £35 extra
Optional lighting kit £50 extra
Unit pictured
Offer Coupon - DUN715
in Vanilla finish

Deluxe
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Magazine Offer width 92cm (36"),


depth 65cm (25 1/2"),
height 183cm (72")
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Mainland UK delivery £50 extra
Second desk Optional lighting kit £50 extra
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is optional
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Dimensions:
width 184cm (72"),
depth 50cm (20")
Unit pictured with desk folded up, depth 150cm (59”)
in Oak finish with desk(s) in use, height 183cm (72")

Offers expire end of month following magazine publication


Please note all furniture items are supplied self assembly -
assembly can be arranged please call for further details and charges Call us free (eg. Jan Issue expires end of Feb)

www.storage4crafts.co.uk
mail@storage4crafts.co.uk 0800 048 8606 VANILLA WHITE MAPLE OAK
A B RA N D N EW M AGA Z I N E!
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IDEAS INSPIRATION ACCESSORIES WEBSITES EVENTS STUFF
Photos: Arto Markkanen; Model: Vanessa; MUAH: Jannica Stelander

TIME TO PLAY
Ever since Finnish pattern label Named launched in 2013, we’ve excitedly anticipated each inspiring new
collection – and now the wait for its spring/summer 2017 designs is finally over! Titled Playground, the collection
has eight styles for sewists to play with, inspired by the simplicity of childrenswear. Featuring interesting cuts and
unique design details, the patterns offer the perfect balance of comfort and cool. From www.namedclothing.com

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 9


Pinboard
BACK TO
BLACK
WWhen we just can’t
decide what to wear,
we always turn to
failsafe, never-lets-us-
down black. Be it the
classic little black
dress for special
occasions or a pair of
comfy black jeans
and a blouse for an
everyday look, we
love it. That’s why
you’ll find plain black
amongst the prints in
our stash! See our top
tips for wearing and
sewing this timeless
shade at www.simply
sewingmag.com
Photo: Adalee Jumpsuit, £85, www.peopletree.co.uk

Ho I a Vi E CLASS ACT
S
Simplicity has your holiday dressmaking all ewing your own coat needn’t be
intimidating thanks to Sew Over
sewn up with its new pattern collection, It’s new online class with Lisa
which ticks all the trend boxes with ruffles, Comfort, Intro to Sewing Coats: Chloe
co-ord sets and off-the-shoulder styles, plus Coat. As it’s an online class, you can
start, stop and rewind the steps as you
mini-me versions for little ones. We’re all go to suit you (and learn new stitching
going on a handmade summer holiday! skills in the comfort of your PJs!). UK
From www.simplicitynewlook.co.uk sizes 8-20, £40, www.sewoverit.com

TO THE
CIRCUS
Tilda is bringing all the fun of the circus
to your fabric stash with its vibrant new
designs. The collection has a storybook
feel that captures the magic of the big
top; elephants balance on treetops,
trees grow out of teacups, ballerinas
prance on elephants’ backs, and cats,
monkeys, and squirrels swing from the
branches. Sure to capture children’s
imagination, the range is perfect for
creating beautiful things for your little
one’s room, while grown-ups will love
the florals for homewares and retro
frocks. For Circus stockist information Roll up, roll up! Tilda is taking us to the circus
email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk with its latest collection of whimsical prints.

10 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Pinboard
e B k!
w C y o t Ma E ’ At LNg A .c
t En E Vi I w .Si P Ys W

SEW CAROLINE
WEEKEND STYLE
W EEK END ST YLE

15Caroline Hulse (£18.99,


Easy-Sew Patterns
for the Must-Have

Fons and Porter)


Weekend Wardrobe

Caroline Hulse, aka Sew


Caroline, shares 15 stylish
simple-sew patterns for
CA R O LINE
L IN
N E HULSEE

your handmade weekend wardrobe, from


easy-to-wear separates to go-to accessories,
with plenty of tips for beginners. Psst! Turn
to page 58 for a peek at Caroline’s enviable
sewing space. www.fonsandporter.com

EASY STUFF TO MAKE

mini profile shapes.” To create the final pattern, “I’ll do


a series of toiles before the sampling and
WITH FLUFF
Gillian Harris (£9.99,
testing starts. The most important thing is Pavilion) Try a new craft
THE MAKER’S that my customers must be able to recreate
exactly what is on the pattern envelope.”
and give your home
a colour boost with 25
ATELIER So, what can we expect from Frances’
book? “It’s a collection of my favourite
weaving, spinning, knitting and crochet
projects to make with fluff, or wooltops
If your dream wardrobe is clothes that haven’t been published as – fluffy pieces of unspun wool. Inspiring
filled with easy-to-wear patterns. The exception is The Stretch Pencil ideas include cushions, bags, brooches, rugs
styles with unique design details, sewn up in Skirt, which I had to include as it’s almost my and more. www.pavilionbooks.com
beautiful fabrics (ours certainly is!), then you signature piece. For the eight styles, I give
won’t be able to resist Frances Tobin’s sewing background for how the designs developed
patterns. Her classics-with-a-twist approach to and variations for different fabrics.” Her THE SKIRT EMPORIUM
designing has made her pattern business, The favourite project from the book is “the Madame Zsazsa (£12.99,
Maker’s Atelier, a firm favourite with sewing leather jacket – it’s my idea of affordable Search Press) Sew up
fans since it launched in 2014 – so much so luxury.” With a pattern collection and book a wardrobe of skirt styles
that Frances has also just released an inspiring launch under her belt, what does the future with this book’s full-size
new book, The Maker’s Atelier: The Essential hold for Frances? “I have no idea! When you patterns, with A-line,
Collection, featuring eight signature designs. run your own business it’s better not to plan circle, straight, gathered,
Clothes have been a passion for Frances too far ahead because you just never know bell, wraparound and elasticated styles, as
ever since her mother introduced her to the what’s going to happen.” An approach that well as underskirts and maternity wear, with
joys of making your own. “When I was very seems to be working wonders so far! clear instructions, sketches, beautiful photos
young I wanted to look fashionable like my See Frances’ patterns at www.themakers and tips to guide you. www.searchpress.com
older sisters. The clothes I wanted weren’t atelier.com and visit www.simplysewing
available in the shops, so my mother made mag.com to enter our book giveaway.
them in the shapes and fabrics I liked.” It was, PATTERN MAKING
she says, “inevitable I would be a designer; all TEMPLATES FOR
Photos: Amelia Shepherd and Katya De Grunwald

I ever wanted to do was design and make SKIRTS & DRESSES


clothes. I trained at The Royal College of Art Alice Prier & Lilia Prier
and worked in the fashion industry for over 20 Tisdall (£12.99, Search
years before starting The Maker’s Atelier.” Press) Create your own
Inspiration comes from “exhibitions, films, sewing patterns with this
seeing great clothes on someone in the street, invaluable book for would-be designers that
or from a length of fabric and how it moves or aims to demystify the pattern-making
drapes.” Frances doesn’t keep sketchbooks, process. Use the downloadable blocks and
instead preferring to have “a mood board of easy-to-follow instructions to adapt and fit
what interests me at the moment. I start from Frances’ book features her signature each one to suit you, then transform your
what I want to wear right now and develop “pared-back, make-able shapes.” blocks into patterns for different dress and
these ideas into pared-back, make-able skirt styles. www.searchpress.com

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 11


Pinboard
HANGING
W
OUT
This nifty portable
fold-up rack can be
hung up wherever
you need a bit of
extra storage for
magazines and books
and is also ideal for
keeping the fabric,
pattern and notions
for your next crafty
project together and
easily to hand – just
pop everything in
a folder or sealable
plastic wallet and
hang it up next to
your sewing desk. Its
on-trend minimal
design scores style
points, too! Approx
£50, www.crowdy
house.com

Sw E Dr A LARKING AROUND
C
ool spring days call for cosy-yet-
Add a colourful flourish from queen of quirky prints Donna stylish cover-ups like Jamie
Wilson to your bedroom with her new range for the Secret Christina’s new Lark Cardigan
Linen Store: “The collection of three bed linen designs has pattern, a maxi-length cardigan that can
Donna’s creatures great and small and we can’t wait to be made with an elegant collar or cosy
show the world.” We love the ‘Blah, Blah’ print – perfect for hood and includes beginner-friendly
those days when you want to hide under the duvet for a few instructions with tips for working with
minutes more! From £55, www.secretlinenstore.com knit fabrics. £14, www.backstitch.co.uk

3 of the best BEE MINE


We’re buzzing about adding these bee-utiful bee-
motif must-haves to our spring/summer wardrobe.

1. Dress up a plain blouse or tee on breezy spring days


with this skinny bee-print scarf in on-trend
monochrome. £12.50, www.marksandspencer.com

2. Keep your coins, cosmetics or crafting bits and


bobs tidy in this handy embroidered zip-up pouch
by freelance textile designer Emma Warren. £10,
www.emmawarrendesign.co.uk

3. Layer up mixed metal jewellery for an eclectic


look, starting with this sterling silver honeycomb
locket with a delicate 8 carat gold vermeil bee
charm by Lily Blanche. £100, www.in-spaces.com

12 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Pinboard
A ’S En i g?

Stitch up
Add colour and pattern to
the plainest of outfits with
mini hoop jewellery.

MAKE A STATEMENT
Ruffles, pleats and bows are all
featuring on sleeves on the high
street this season, so of course we’ll
be adding them to our me-mades,
too! The McCall Pattern Company has
plenty of inspiration if you’re looking
to sew the statement sleeve trend, PINEAPPLE POP
from bell sleeves (M7545) and pretty Go tropical with this juicy pineapple
bows (7543) to cold-shoulder styles motif, hand-stitched with glass beads.
(M7546). It’s the season of the sleeve! Approx £31, www.manaraya.etsy.com
£8.75 each, www.sewdirect.com
BLOOMING
LOVELY

out & about Top off a floral frock


with these delicate

L h t i Mi g
There’s something so pleasing about an
SKILLS, SHOWS
stitched blooms in
a scalloped brooch.
Approx £29, www.
organised stash of colourful ribbons, so
why hide them away in a drawer? We’re
putting all our trims on show with this
& EVENTS SHE SELLS
arorua.etsy.com

pretty ribbon box, which comes with 25 MARCH 22 OCTOBER SEA SHELLS
seven different ribbons wound on House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Pack this sweet mini
reusable wooden spools – including Chatsworth. Derbyshire. A sumptuous hoop shell necklace
spots, stripes, florals and harlequin prints display of clothing from 15 generations of for your next beach
– and has a vintage look that we love. Chatsworth residents and contemporary break. Approx £20,
£160, www.sistersguild.com designers. www.chatsworth.org www.makemonster
co.etsy.com
Stripes and florals 31 MARCH 2 APRIL
and spots, oh my! Spring Quilt Festival. Westpoint, Exeter. OMBRE OOH
Admire creations made by some of your Wear a little piece
favourite quilters, attend workshops and of hand-stitched art
shop supplies. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk with this custom-
made mini hoop
3 9 APRIL necklace. Approx
World Craft Week. Join us for a week of £28, www.thread
celebrating all things crafty on social honeydesign.com
media – every craft is welcome! Search
#worldcraftweek for how to get involved. GET CRAFTY
Choose from several
24 30 APRIL colourful designs to
Fashion Revolution Week. An online embroider yourself.
movement celebrating the people around From approx £5,
the world who make clothes for the high www.dandelyne.
street. www.fashionrevolution.org etsy.com

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 13
Pinboard

REGENCY
CRAFTING
WThere’s something
beautiful to see in
every corner of the
city of Bath, UK, from
Georgian architecture
to the Roman Baths,
and Arena Travel’s
Quilting in Regency
Bath trip offers you
the chance to soak up
the city’s history as
well as indulging your
passion for stitching. Ragley, Warwickshire
12-14 May 2017
This inspiring trip
includes stitching
workshops, a city tour
and more. www.
stitchtopia.co.uk KIRSTIE’S BACK!
K
irstie Allsopp is back for another

T eo t Ci I
weekend of crafting fun at The
Handmade Fair in Warwickshire on
12th-14th May. Hosted by Kirstie Allsopp,
Made by Mrs M’s new collection has us in Liz Earle and Great British Sewing Bee’s
Patrick Grant, it’s going to be an inspiring
a Paris and New York state of mind. Inspired weekend of shopping and workshops. To
by her travels to these two iconic cities, the save up to £3 on a Full Experience ticket
range of accessories, prints and fabrics and £10 on a VIP ticket and get one of
feature instantly recognisable landmarks a selection of four Mollie Makes books for
free (subject to availability) quote code
illustrated in her signature mid-century SEWING3. Offer ends 30th April 2017.
style. From £3, www.madebymrsm.co.uk www.thehandmadefair.com/ragley

liberty corner
HAPPY IN
HANDMADE
Handmade Clothing Company
founder Amy McLean set up
her business after welcoming
her baby daughter in 2014.

To A l Da Z e
We’re huge fans of Atelier Brunette’s
Amy “loved dressing her in
beautiful dresses. A friend
suggested Liberty fabrics,
swoon-worthy cotton and viscose and as I loved sewing and
prints, so its new French terry has wanted more time for my
gone straight to the top of our wish children, the idea was born.”
list. The Dazzle Night print features She started in 2015, selling garments
an on-trend metallic gold confetti for women and children “handmade Amy’s clothes aren’t just for
design on navy and is great for sewing from start to finish using the best little ones! She makes luxury
sweatshirts to wear on those jeans- Liberty fabrics.” From £15, www. Liberty womenswear, too.
and-a-comfy-top weekend days. £5.50 handmadeclothingcompany.com
for metre, www.backstitch.co.uk

14 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
FREE sewing quarter tv
SEWING KIT
Wo t £ 4. 9 w t
Yo r Fi s p r Ha e *
(T&C’S p L )

Sewing Quarter is our brand new sister TV channel,


dedicated to all things sewing and quilting. Watch it
live on Freeview channel 78 and online, today!

Wa C i MEET THE DESIGNER


W
hat a busy few months! Since
its launch in January, Sewing
Quarter’s presenters John
Re E c R d
Scott and Natasha McCarty (right) have
hosted over 200 live shows alongside
12 guest designers � including our very
own Technical Editor Rebecca (far right)
We’ve seen everything from soft toys to
bags made live on air. There’s so much
to enjoy, whatever your sewing level.
Tune in today and see it for yourself on
Freeview channel 78, or watch and shop
online at www.sewingquarter.com
HOW ARE YOU FINDING LIVE TV?
“I’m really enjoying it. I was quite nervous

b i to start with but I quickly got used to


forgetting the cameras are there and just

*Free sewing kit available on your first purchase only with a minimum spend of £10 (excl.P&P). While stocks last.
getting on with sewing. There’s a real
personal side to presenting on live TV
where you can interact with the viewers
as they send in their messages. ”
Pandalicious Bamboo Alison Glass Sun Prints, Joel Dewberry Abacus
Shoots by Art Gallery, Nectarine, Fabric in Eucalyptus, WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT IT?
£7.95 per 0.5m £5.45 per 0.5m £6.95 per 0.5m “In Simply Sewing I have to explain
everything in words which would take
a minute to demonstrate. It’s great being
able to show the viewers different
techniques so they can really understand.”

WHAT ARE YOU MOST ENJOYING


SHOWING VIEWERS?
“I love being able to show quick ways and
Pandalicious Zhu Nectar Swallows Fabric in Blue Amy Butler Oh Deer
by Makower, Fabric in Coral, little cheat methods so whatever their skill
by Art Gallery,
£7.95 per 0.5m £5.45 per 0.5m £6.95 per 0.5m level they can learn something.”

Rebecca also works as Technical Editor


YOU CAN NOW BUY FABRIC ONLINE! Love the fabric our designers use? You can for Simply Sewing. See more of her work
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LIVE everyday 8am - 12 noon · FREEVIEW CHANNEL 78 · www.sewingquarter.com · www.youtube.com/sewingquarter


Fabric news
i Bl O
W FLORET BY LEAH
DUNCAN FOR
CLOUD9 FABRICS
Illustrator Leah
Duncan captures the
natural beauty of the
flora around her
hometown of Austin,
1826/W: Circles
Texas in this new
collection of fresh
Interplay Eclectic Blau Bloem floral designs in
a vibrant palette for
Cloud9, printed on
lightweight and
versatile cotton
batiste fabric. www.
Chinoiserie Wit
hantex.co.uk/cloud9

o o t B e
IN BLUE BY KATARINA ROCCELLA FOR ART
1830/X Triangles

GALLERY FABRICS
Katarina Roccella puts a contemporary spin on
Friday Fronds
STYLISHLY SIMPLE
MONOCHROME BY MAKOWER
traditional ways of using blue in art and culture Take inspiration from Scandi simplicity
with her new collection of prints for Art Gallery with this graphic new collection of
Fabrics. Everything from classic tiles to abstract monochrome prints from Makower,
and ditsy florals feature in a palette that ranges from classic spots to triangles with
a hand-printed look. Mix the prints and
from indigo to pastels, with pops of coral and add a splash of your favourite colour for
blush that make these cheerful prints perfect Iris an effortlessly stylish home scheme or
for summer makes. www.hantex.co.uk/agf bold quilt. www.makoweruk.com

FREE SPIRIT
INDIE BOHEME BY PAT BRAVO FOR ART
GALLERY FABRICS
Pat Bravo captures the bohemian spirit of
summer with her dreamy new collection
of romantic prints for Art Gallery Fabrics.
With sunny days on the horizon, we’re
dreaming of exploring faraway places,
enjoying lazy afternoons at the park and Boho Quest: Day
dining al fresco on balmy evenings (all while
wearing beautiful handmade frocks, of
course!), and it is this free-spirited vibe that
has inspired Pat Bravo’s latest range. This
medley of eclectic prints includes geometric
patterns, bird motifs, florals and patchwork
designs, in cotton, knit, voile and canvas
fabrics in two colour palettes. The Antique
Dresser colourway features a delicate mix of
teal, coral and mustard, while the Romantic
Boudoir palette has punchy splashes of Vie de Bohème:
magenta. Our handmade summer wardrobe Sunset Eternal Serenity: Rose
starts here! www.hantex.co.uk/agf

16 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
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laundry day

spring clean
Freshen up your laundry room with practical
makes in nautical prints. Wash, dry, fold, repeat!

Designer: REBECCA REID Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILIP SOWELS

18 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
La N r S n
There’s always someone in the family who needs
reminding what to do on laundry day, so this eye-
catching sign should do the trick! Ours is decorated
with chain stitch, appliquéd scraps and a couple of
mini pegs from our peg bag as a finishing touch.

Ir N n Bo R Co E
It’s time to get rid of that ill-fitting ironing board
cover that just won’t stay put when you’re ironing
your favourite frock! Ours is made to fit your board,
with elastic to hold it in place while you press.
laundry day

p b
We’ve got laundry day pegged with this utility room
essential! Our peg bag is made with a child’s clothes
hanger for hanging it within easy reach and features
a porthole opening to reveal a peek of sky-print lining.

Dr W Tr N B s
Encourage kids (and big kids!) to tidy away their laundry
with these fish-shaped drawstring bags in a colour-
block design with decorative buttons for eyes. You could
add an appliquéd name or initial, too – then will be no
arguments over whose turn it is to do the laundry!

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 21
laundry day

Ba K Li E
We’re obsessed with finding pretty and practical storage
solutions, especially if we can add our own handmade
touch! For a quick utility room update, we’ve sewn liners
in matching prints to brighten up a set of plain baskets.

La N r Ha P
Our jumbo laundry hamper is made to last, with a layer
of foam for durability and sturdy handles made with
webbing, plus a drawstring closure so no rogue socks
will be able to escape en-route to the washing machine!

22 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
laundry day

01 02

05 06

laundry hamper
YOU WILL NEED
CUTTING OUT
Step one From the outer fabric cut:
Base: 43cm (17 ⁄ in) diameter circle.
Step five Remove the paper then place the
letters centrally on the outer side piece so the
word runs parallel to the long edge. Press gently.
Q Outer fabric: 135x112cm (53x44in) Body: 63x135cm (24 ⁄ x53in). Step six Work a machine zigzag stitch around
Q Lining fabric: 200x112cm (78x44in) Handles: two strips 6x60cm each (2 ⁄ x23 ⁄ in). the edge of each letter to hold them firmly in
Q Bondaweb: 10x40cm (4x16in) Step two From the lining fabric cut: place and also give a decorative effect. 01
Q Foam:180x72cm (71x28in) Base: 43cm (17 ⁄ in) diameter circle.
Q Webbing: 3x120cm (1 x47in) Body: 63x135cm (24 ⁄ x53in). MAKING THE OUTER
Q Nylon cord: 150cm (60in) Drawstring top: 35x135cm (13 x53in). Step one Staystitch the outer and foam base
Q Spring toggle Handles: two strips 6x60cm each (2 ⁄ x23 ⁄ in). circles together, with WS facing 5mm ( in) from
Q Basic sewing kit Appliqué fabric: 10x40cm (4x15 in). the edge.
Step three From the foam cut: Step two Staystitch the appliquéd outer and
MATERIALS USED Base: 43cm (17 ⁄ in) diameter circle. foam side pieces in the same way.
Outer fabric: Linen Texture, Steel Body: 63x135cm (24 ⁄ x53in). Step three Fold the outer side in half widthways
Grey. Ref: 1473/S5. From Basics by with WS facing and stitch together along the
Makower. ADDING THE APPLIQUÉ short ends. Press the seam open.
Contrast fabric: Fishes, Orange. Ref: Step one Trace over the appliqué letters onto Step four Fold the outer base circle in half and
1772/N. From Marina by Makower. tracing paper then turn your paper over to the then in half again and press. Mark these quarter
For stockist information visit www. wrong side (WS) and place your Bondaweb marks with pins or an erasable pen.
makoweruk.com paper side up on top. Trace over the letters so Step five Mark quarter marks on the outer side
Foam: Style Vil from Vlieseline. For they are in reverse. piece, with the first placed on the side seam.
stockists email crafts@stockist Step two Cut the letters out roughly outside the Step six With right sides (RS) together, match
enquiries.co.uk traced lines then place them paper side up onto then pin the quarter markings on the circle base
the WS of the appliqué fabric. and side piece so that the raw edges meet.
NOTES Step three Press gently into place until they’re Step seven Stitch together all the way around.
Q Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. firmly stuck using a dry iron.
Q The appliqué template is on the Step four Carefully cut out the letters along your MAKING THE LINING
pull-out pattern sheet provided. drawn pencil lines. Step one Fold the lining side in half widthways

24 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
laundry day

03 04

07 08

with WS facing and stitch together along the Step three Cut the webbing in half and thread Step four Press the seams open then turn RS out
short ends, leaving a 25cm (10in) turning gap in one piece through the fabric tube then trim off through the gap in the lining.
the centre of the seam. Press the seam open. the end so it’s the same length as the fabric. Step five Turn the edges of the gap to the inside
Step two Mark, pin then stitch the lining side to Step four Topstitch down the centre of the then slip stitch in place.
the lining base in the same way as for the outer. handle to decorate and stop the fabrics twisting.
Step five Repeat to make the other handle using FINISHING OFF
MAKING THE DRAWSTRING TOP the other fabric strips and webbing. 05 Step one Push the lining and drawstring top to
Step one Fold the drawstring top in half Step six Take the outer side and mark 21cm the inside and press with the seams at the top.
widthways with WS facing and stitch together. (8 in) either side of the side seam at the top. Step two Stitch the layers of outer, lining and
Stitch for 3cm (1 in) then leave a 2cm ( in) gap These marks indicate the outer edge of one end drawstring top together all the way around,
then stitch down to the bottom. This is to create of each handle. Pin them into these positions. 1cm ( ⁄ in) from the top, then
a gap in the casing for the cord. 02 Step seven Leave a 17cm (6 in) inner gap work another line of
Step two Press the seams open then topstitch between the other short ends of the handles stitching through the
3mm ( ⁄ in) outside the seam either side from the then pin these into place matching raw edges. three layers 2cm ( in)
RS. This will hold the seams flat and also The outer fabric of the handles should face the from the top. 08
strengthen the edge of the gap. 03 RS of the side piece. Step three Thread the
Step three Fold the top edge under by 1cm ( ⁄ in) Step eight Stitch the handles into place 1cm cord through the
then 2cm ( in) again and press then pin the ( ⁄ in) down from the raw edge. 06 gap in the casing
edge into place. using a safety pin.
Step four Stitch the turning in place close to the ASSEMBLING THE HAMPER Step four Thread the
bottom edge to form the casing. 04 Step one Turn the drawstring top WS out then cord ends through the
slip it over the top of the outer so they are RS toggle and tie in a knot.
MAKING AND ATTACHING THE HANDLES facing and raw edges are matching then pin.
Step one Place one outer fabric handle strip RS Step two Place the outer and drawstring top
facing with one lining fabric handle strip and inside the lining so the outer and lining are RS
then stitch together down both long edges. together then pin.
Step two Turn RS out and press so the seams lie Step three Stitch together all the way around
right on the edges. the top edge. 07

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laundry day

Basket LINER
YOU WILL NEED
01 02

Q Main fabric: see instructions for


sizing
Q Cotton tape: see instructions for
sizing
Q Storage basket
Q Basic sewing kit

FABRIC USED
Fishes, Orange. Ref: 1772/N; Fishes,
Blue. Ref: 1772/B. Both from Marina
by Makower. For stockists visit www.
makoweruk.com
03 04
NOTES
Q Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance.

CUTTING OUT
You can use any size basket. The following
instructions show you how to measure and
sew a liner to fit yours.
Step one You need to measure the outside of
the basket as the liner will fold around this.
Width: take the measurement across the
short edge.
Length: take the measurement across the
long edge.
Height: from the base, up over the top and
4cm (1 ⁄ in) down the front of the basket. and base length with the long sides. finished basket liner and add 30cm (12in) to
Step two Now you need to add seam Step two Stitch together all the way around, this. Cut your cotton tape to this length.
allowances and ease to these measurements and when you reach the end of one side, at Step two Thread the cotton tape through
to work out the fabric sizes you need to cut. a corner of the base, pivot your needle. This is the casing, starting and finishing at the gap
Base: width + 5cm (2in) x length + 5cm (2in). done by leaving the needle in the fabric, you’ve made.
Short sides: cut two, width + 5cm (2in) x raising the presser foot, turning the fabric, Step three Place the fabric liner inside the
height + 6cm (2 ⁄ in). lowering the presser foot and continuing basket then pull the tape to tighten and tie
Long sides: cut two, length + 5cm (2in) x stitching along the other side. Leaving the the ends in a bow to finish. Trim if necessary
height + 6cm (2 ⁄ in). bottom seam sections of the sides unstitched to neaten.
Step three Cut the pieces of fabric to these makes this easier to do and you will get
measurements. a neater corner. 02
Step three Once you’ve stitched the base of
JOINING THE SIDES the sides all the way around press the seams
Step one Place one short side piece and one open and flat.
long side piece right sides (RS) facing and
stitch together down the height. Stop MAKING THE CASING
stitching 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) before the end, Step one Fold the top edge of the sides over
backstitching to secure the seam. 01 by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the wrong side then fold it
Step two Stitch the other side pieces to this, over again by 2cm ( in) and pin.
down the height each time and stopping Step two Stitch this into place close to the
stitching 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) from the end each time. edge of the casing. 03
Remember to alternate short and long sides Step three Snip away the stitches in one corner
to make a continuous piece. of the side seam in the casing on the RS to
make a gap for the drawstring tape.
ATTACHING THE BASE Step four Work a few oversewing stitches at
Step one Pin the base piece RS together with the top and bottom to secure the seam. 04
the bottom edge of the joined side pieces. FITTING THE LINER
Line up the base width with the short sides Step one Measure all the way around your

26 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
laundry day

Fish bag
YOU WILL NEED
01 02

Q Main fabric: 45x70cm (18x28in) for


the head and tail
Q Contrast fabric: 35x70cm (14x28in)
for the body
Q Lining fabric: 65x70cm (26x28in)
Q Casing fabric: 15x30cm (6x12in)
Q Cotton cord: 150cm (60in)
Q 2 buttons: 3cm (1 in) diameter
Q Basic sewing kit

MATERIALS USED
Main fabric: Linen Texture, Steel Grey.
Ref: 1473/S5; Linen Texture, Tomato. 03 04
Ref: 1473/N8. From Linen Texture, part
of the Basics Collection by Makower.
Contrast fabric: Fishes, Blue. Ref:
1772/B; Fishes, Grey. Ref:1772/S;
Fishes, Orange. Ref: 1772/N. From
Marina by Makower. For stockists visit
www.makoweruk.com

NOTES
Q Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance
unless otherwise stated.
Q The template is on the pull-out
pattern sheet provided.

CUTTING OUT Step two Place one tail piece RS together, another button on the other side of the fish in the
Step one Trace around the outline of the fish bag matching the raw edges of the bottom of the same position. 02
template and cut it out. The dotted lines are body and the top of the tail. 01
given to show the different sections of the fish. Step three Repeat this to join the other head, ADDING THE CASING
Step two You now need to make separate body and tail pieces together to make the other Step one Turn the short ends of one casing strip
patterns for the head, body and tail. Trace around side of the fish. under by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the WS then topstitch down
the head pattern and down to the dashed line, to hold them in place. Repeat with the other strip.
then draw another line 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) below this for ASSEMBLING THE BAG Step two Place the casing strips RS together with the
a seam allowance then cut out the pattern. Step one Place the two joined fish RS facing and top of the bag, matching raw edges. The stitched
Repeat this for the body section, adding 1.5cm stitch together all the way around, leaving the down short ends should meet at the side seams.
( ⁄ in) above and below the dashed lines. For the top edge of the head open to make the bag Step three Stitch the strips into place using a 1cm
tail, add 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) above the dotted line. outer. ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. 03
Step three Fold the main fabric in half right sides Step two Clip the seams then press open. Step four Turn the other raw long edge of each
(RS) together, pin the head and tail patterns to it Step three Place the two lining fish pieces RS casing strip under to the WS by 1cm ( ⁄ in) and press.
and cut around them. facing and stitch together in the same way. Step five Fold the strips over to the inside of the bag,
Step four Fold the contrast fabric in half RS Step four Place the lining inside the outer so they matching the turned-under edge to the seam.
together, pin the body pattern to it and cut out. are WS facing and match side seams. Step six Stitch the casing in place all the way around,
Step five Fold the lining fabric in half RS together Step five Stitch together around the top edge just just above the seam. 04
and pin the whole fish pattern centrally on top 1cm ( ⁄ in) from the raw edges.
and cut around it. THREADING THE CORD
Step six Cut the casing fabric into two strips, each ADDING THE DETAILS Step one Cut the cord in half, then, starting at one
measuring 7x29cm (2 x11 in). Step one Stitch across the top of the tail through side, thread one half all the way through the casing
all layers of front, back and lining, making sure the and back out where you started. Tie the ends in
MAKING THE FISH seams match up. This will stop your laundry a knot to secure.
Step one Place one head and one body piece RS getting stuck in the bottom of the tail. Step two Thread the other half through, but starting
together, matching the raw edges of the bottom Step two Sew a button for an eye on one side of and finishing at the opposite side, then tie the ends.
of the head and the top of the body. Stitch the bag, just through one side of outer and lining Step three You can now pull up the knots to close
together then press the seam open. in the position shown on the template. Sew your bag.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 27


laundry day

Ironing board 01 02

cover
YOU WILL NEED
Q Main fabric: see instructions for
size
Q Contrast fabric: see instructions
for size
Q Elastic: 1cm ( ⁄ in) width and long
enough to fit around your cover
Q Ironing board padding (optional):
see instructions for sizing
Q Basic sewing kit

MATERIALS USED 03 04
Main fabric: Harbour. Ref: 1767/1.
Contrast fabric: Sky. Ref: 1774/1.
The fabrics used are from Marina by
Makower. For stockists visit www.
makoweruk.com

MAKING A PATTERN
Step one First make a template of your ironing
board by placing it upside down over a large
sheet of paper. You could use a roll of spare
wrapping paper, or tape sheets of newspaper
together to make a piece big enough to fit.
Draw around the ironing board and then cut out
the shape. This will be your paper pattern.
Step two To mark where the contrast fabric will along the straight line. need new padding or just want some extra
be joined, measure and draw a line a quarter of Step two Press the seams open. 02 thickness beneath your new cover then you can
the way down the length of the full pattern, buy specialist ironing board padding online,
parallel to the straight end. MAKING A CASING which you can cut to fit your board. Or, if you
Step one Fold and press the raw edges of both have an old wool blanket then a couple of layers
CUTTING OUT fabrics under by 1cm ( ⁄ in), then 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) of this will work, too.
Step one The cover needs to be cut 15cm (6in) again to the WS all the way around to form Step two Place your cover on top of your
larger than your paper template all the way a casing for your elastic. At the curved edges, padded ironing board and pull the elastic tightly
around (this is for the casing, board lip and to you will need to make small, neat folds to ease so that the cover fits snugly around it. Ease the
wrap underneath). the turnings into place. gathers for an even look and then tie a new knot
Step two Pin your paper pattern to the wrong Step two Stitch down the casing all the way in the elastic to secure.
side (WS) of your piece of main fabric and draw around, but leave a 4cm (1 ⁄ in) gap in the centre
a line 15cm (6in) outside the template all the of one side. 03
way around. Start and finish 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) above Step three Attach a safety pin to one end of your
the straight contrast fabric line you drew on the elastic. Insert the safety pin into the gap in your
pattern. You’ll need to measure more closely at casing and thread all the way around to come
the curved end so that your curve is accurate. out again in the same place. 04
Step three Cut out your fabric along the line Step four Tie the two ends of the elastic into
you’ve drawn. a knot to secure.
Step four Place the paper pattern on top of the
contrast fabric and draw a line 15cm (6in) FITTING YOUR COVER
outside the pattern, starting and stopping Step one If your ironing board isn’t already
1.5cm ( ⁄ in) below the straight contrast fabric padded then you’ll need to cut a piece of
line. Cut along the drawn line. 01 wadding – this needs to be 5cm (2in) larger all
the way around than the top of your board.
JOINING THE FABRICS Place the wadding on top of your board.
Step one Place the main fabric and contrast Alternatively, you can just keep your old cover
fabric right sides (RS) facing and stitch together on your ironing board as the padding. If you

28 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
laundry day

01 02

03 04

Peg Bag
YOU WILL NEED
CUTTING OUT
Step one Trace around the outer edges of the
template including the circular opening. Cut
Step seven Topstitch around the edge of the circle
on the main fabric side to hold the lining in place
and to neaten.
Q Main fabric: 45x80cm (18x31in) along the outer edges then cut the opening.
Q Lining fabric: 45x80cm (18x31in) Step two Fold the main fabric in half and pin the JOINING THE BAG TOGETHER
Q Coathanger: child’s crescent shaped template centrally on top and cut out. Step one Pin the two main fabric pieces RS facing
hanger, 30cm (12in) length Step three Repeat this to cut two pieces from the and stitch together around the edge, making sure
Q Basic sewing kit lining fabric in the same way. you don’t stitch into the front lining fabric by
folding it out of the way. You need to start
MATERIALS USED MAKING THE OPENING stitching at the point marked on the top of the
Main fabric: Harbour. Ref: 1767/1. Step one Place one lining piece wrong side (WS) template and stop stitching at the other mark.
Lining fabric: Sky. Ref: 1774/1. From up then place the template on top and draw Step two Pin the two lining pieces RS facing, fold
Marina by Makower. For stockists visit around the circular opening. the main fabric out of the way and stitch together
www.makoweruk.com Step two Place this traced lining fabric right sides in the same was as for the main fabric, starting
(RS) together with one piece of main fabric and and finishing at the marks on the top edge. 02
NOTES pin together. Step three Press the edges of the opening on the
Q Use a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance Step three Stitch together all the way around the main fabric and lining fabric over to meet with the
Q The template is on the pull-out drawn circle. seam lines. 03
pattern sheet provided. Step four Cut out the centre of the circle to 5mm
( in) inside the stitched line. ADDING THE HANGER
Step five Make small snips into the curved parts Step one Turn the peg bag RS out by pulling it
of the seam allowance every 1cm ( ⁄ in), making gently through the opening left at the top. Push
sure you don’t actually cut the stitches. This will the lining inside the outer then press.
help the bag to lie flatter around the edges when Step two Pin then oversew the main fabric and
you turn it RS out. 01 lining together all the way around the edge of the
Step six Turn the two fabric pieces RS out by turned under opening. 04
posting the main fabric outer through the cut Step three Push the hook of the coat hanger up
out circle. Smooth the fabrics out flat and press. through the top opening to complete.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 29


laundry day

Laundry Sign
YOU WILL NEED
01 02

Q Main fabric: 45x55cm (18x22in)


Q Appliqué fabric: 20x40cm (8x16in)
Q Bondaweb: 20x40cm (8x16in)
Q 2oz wadding: 20x37cm (8x14 in)
Q Mount board: 20x37cm (8x14 in)
Q Stranded cotton
Q 2 miniature wooden pegs
Q Cotton cord, for hanging
Q Basic sewing kit

MATERIALS USED
Main fabric: Sky. Ref: 1774/1. From
Marina by Makower. 03 04
Appliqué fabric: Linen Texture, Steel
Grey. Ref: 1473/S5. From Linen
Texture, part of the Basics Collection
by Makower. For stockists visit www.
makoweruk.com

NOTES
Q The template is on the pull-out
pattern sheet provided.

CUTTING OUT
Step one Cut your main fabric into two pieces
each measuring 26x43cm (10 x17in) for the
front and back of the sign.
words, referring to the template for how to paper strips from the double-sided tape then
TRACING THE DESIGN position them. stick the fabric to the tape to hold it in place.
Step one Trace over the sign template onto Step five Stitch just inside the edge of each
tracing paper then cut around the outline. letter to hold them firmly in place. FINISHING THE BACK
Step two Place one of the main fabric pieces Step one Place the other piece of main fabric
centrally right side (RS) up over the traced WORKING THE EMBROIDERY over the back of the mount board and turn the
words then trace over the top row of words, Step one Using four strands of stranded edges under so they meet with the edges of the
WASH DRY FOLD, in pencil or erasable pen. cotton, stitch over the three traced words in mount board.
Step three Remove your traced fabric and put chain stitch. Step two Slip stitch the two fabrics together
it to one side. Step two Stitch a miniature wooden peg around the edge to hold them both securely
between the words by bringing the needle around the mount board. 03
WORKING THE APPLIQUÉ up through the centre of the spring, over the Step three Sew cotton cord to top of the back of
Step one Turn the template over to the wrong top of the spring and back into the fabric. the sign by working a few stitches through the
side (WS) and place your Bondaweb paper Stitch this several times to secure. 01 ends of the cord and into the fabric. 04
side up on top. Now trace over just the word
REPEAT onto the paper side so you are MAKING THE SIGN
tracing it in reverse. Step one Stick the wadding on top of the
Step two Place the traced Bondaweb paper mount board using a few pieces of double-
side up onto the WS of your appliqué fabric sided tape.
and press gently into place until it is firmly Step two Stick double-sided tape around the
stuck using a dry medium temperature iron edges of the other side of the mount board.
(don’t use any steam). Step three Place the stitched fabric RS up
Step three Carefully cut out all the letters centrally over the wadding side of the mount
along your drawn pencil lines. Make sure you board, then hold into place by pushing pins
cut them accurately so they are a neat shape. through the edges of the fabric and into the
Remove the paper backing from the letters. mount board. Make sure the fabric stays
Step four Place your traced fabric RS up then central and that you stretch it tightly. 02
place all the letters on top below the traced Step four Turn the board over, remove the

30 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Gather your friends and family to welcome in the Spring with
an afternoon of fun crafting. Your Crafternoon will help us
give advice and support to even more people - because no
one should have to face a mental health problem alone.

Get your Crafternoon pack


mind.org.uk/crafternoon
Registered charity no. 219830
Co E
S r

Psst35: for fabraincd


to page iration, r
Turn yle insp are you
t sh s
and s forget to op with u
t
don’ t ress and wingmag
yd se
Jenn g #simply
usin

32 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
CLICK
HERE!
to buy This PatTern
for £6.99
WHILE STOCKS LAST

the JENNY dress


Sew mix and match jersey staples with The Fold Line’s
two-in-one Jenny pattern in UK sizes 6-20, which can
be made as a relaxed-fit layered dress or a simple top.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 33


The JENNY dress
Come rain or shine, whatever the season or
occasion, we’ll choose to wear jersey if we
can! Comfortable, flattering and available
in myriad tempting colours and prints, this
versatile fabric is a staple of both our sewing
stash and our handmade wardrobe.
This issue, we’re updating our spring style
with yet another jersey frock (you can never SIMPLE SEW
have too many!) with The Jenny Dress by The The dress and top
feature grown-on
Fold Line (www.thefoldline.com), in UK sizes sleeves and no
6-20 (US 4-18/EUR 34-48), which can be made fiddly fastenings.
as a layered dress or as an open-back top.
Clear step-by-step instructions will take
you through working with jersey fabrics,
constructing the dress and top and hemming
with a twin needle for a professional finish.

YOU WILL NEED


Q Fabric: Dress: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 3.4m
(3 yds); 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.3m
(2 yds) for all sizes
Top: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 1.2m (1 ⁄ yds);
140cm (55in) width fabric x 1.2m (1 ⁄ yds) for
all sizes
Q Hook and eye: for the top
Q Matching thread

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
Q Light to medium weight stretch knit fabrics,
such as cotton jersey or viscose jersey with
25% stretch.

GETTING STARTED
First, pre-wash and dry your fabric according
to the care instructions to allow for any
shrinkage. Unfold the pattern sheets
included in the pattern envelope and find the
line style for your size on the pattern pieces
using the key provided. Follow these lines to
cut your pattern pieces out – it can be helpful
to mark your size with a highlighter before
cutting. Turn to our guide on page 91 for
more tips, plus a glossary of key terms.
Read through the instructions in the
pattern envelope before you start sewing,
and make sure you do all the steps in the
correct order. Get your sewing kit ready so
you have everything you need to hand, press EASY-WEAR SHAPE
your fabric to ensure accurate cutting out, The floaty open-back
top finishes at the
and you’re ready to start sewing your Jenny! natural waist for
a flattering fit.

g 5% o a G l Ch R e
Stock up your stash with
printed and plain jersey TWO-IN-ONE
fabrics to make your Jenny DESIGN
Make as a layered
dress or top at Girl Charlee
dress or as an
and get 15% off! Just use the code open-back top.
SIMPLY15 at www.girlcharlee.com.
Offer valid until 7th May 2017.

34 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
The JENNY dress
We think this fun fish print
wear it with
would make a fin-tastic Jenny
dress! www.hantex.co.uk/cloud9

Hatchmarks Grey, www.


Pl i s i i G
Set sail for a stylish summer
hantex.co.uk/cloud9
with our coastal-cool picks.
Add subtle sparkle
with a delicate anchor
charm bracelet, £12,
uk.accessorize.com

Anchors Away, www. Forget classic red nails


girlcharlee.co.uk – bold royal blue is our
new go-to manicure hue,
£2.99, www.newlook.com

Stripe Brown, www.


hantex.co.uk/cloud9
FABRIC INSPIRATION

nautical & Nice


From anchors and stripes to scallops
Wear a playful take on staple
stripes with this contrast pom
pom scarf, £45, www.east.co.uk

and geometrics, play with prints for


a new take on a timeless nautical look.

Ripples Coral, www. Carry your coffee


hantex.co.uk/agf money in this retro
anchor print purse,
£2, uk.flyingtiger.com

Earn your style stripes


with a wear-with-
anything tote, £49.95,
Triangle Tokens Ink, www.whitestuff.com
www.hantex.co.uk/agf

K e coo b oo
i chi ibbon-de i
su a , £25, w .
whi es .co
T embr der en
Joy Plante Cora, www. Make the most of Jenny’s layered style by making wit embe lishe ump ,
hantex.co.uk/agf the top in a multi-coloured print and the main
£16, w . andc .co
dress in a plain fabric, www.hantex.co.uk/agf

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 35


Simply
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liberty love
Make the most of this month’s Liberty subscriber offer
with these patchwork projects by Jessica Entwistle.

38 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
show us yours with #simplysewingmag
Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 39
liberty makes

01 02

03 04

INFINITY SCARF
YOU WILL NEED
CUTTING OUT
Step one Cut each of the six fabrics into two
squares measuring 33x33cm (13x13in) each to
JOINING THE ROWS
Step one Place the top and bottom row RS
facing and stitch together along both long
Q Lightweight cotton fabric: 33x66cm make 12 squares in total. edges to create a tube. It’s important the seams
(13x26in) each of six different match exactly for a neat finish. To help with this,
fabrics JOINING THE SQUARES pin them together along the seams above and
Q Basic sewing kit Step one Arrange your squares into two rows of below the seam allowance to keep them lined
six, making sure the same colours aren’t up as you stitch.
FABRICS USED touching so you achieve a patchwork effect. Our Step two Press the seams open and turn the
Liberty tana lawn: Mila B; Estelle and scarf has the same order of fabrics but one side tube RS out. 02
Annabelle B; Oxton; Newland Blue; is a mirror of the other. Play around with the
Ros H; English Field B. Available from arrangement by laying the squares on a flat MAKING A LOOP
www.alicecaroline.co.uk surface until you are happy with the way they Step one To make your scarf into a continuous
look next to each other. 01 loop you need to stitch the short ends RS
NOTE Step two Take the first two adjacent squares together. To do this, peel one end back towards
Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. from the top row and place them right sides (RS) the other (like turning up a trouser leg) so they
facing. Stitch together down the sides that were are RS together. Pin all the way around so the
touching when they were laid flat and then side seams match exactly. 03
press the seams open. Step two Stitch the short ends together all the
Step three Repeat this to sew all the squares way around but leaving a 10cm (4in) turning
from the top row together to make one long gap in the centre of one side.
strip of six squares.
Step four Sew all the squares in the bottom row FINISHING THE SCARF
together in the same way. Step one Turn the whole scarf RS out through
Step five Turn the two rows over and press the the turning gap then press the edge of the
seams from the RS. This is just to make sure they turning gap to the inside.
are perfectly flat without any creases as this will Step two Slip stitch the turning gap closed then
help when you join the rows. press to finish. 04

show us yours with #simplysewingmag


liberty makes

01 02

03 04

PATCHWORK CUSHION
YOU WILL NEED
CUTTING OUT
Step one The fabrics can be placed in any order
you choose. Decide this then label them A-F.
JOINING THE ROWS
Step one Pin row 1 to row 2, RS facing, then
stitch together along the length.
Q Lightweight cotton fabric: 8x75cm Step two A full brick measures 7.5x12cm Step two Repeat this to join all the rows RS
(20x28in) each of six different (2 x4 in) and a half brick measures 7.5x7.5cm together then press the seams open. 02
fabrics (2 x2 in). Cut out the fabrics as follows:
Q Cotton backing fabric: 70x80cm Fabric A: 6 full bricks. PREPARING THE BACKING PIECES
(25x30in) Fabric B: 4 full bricks, 2 half bricks. Step one Work a machine zigzag around all the
Q Cushion pad: 36x36cm (14x14in) Fabric C: 4 full bricks, 2 half bricks. raw edges of your assembled patchwork front
Q Basic sewing kit Fabric D: 6 full bricks. and backing fabric pieces to stop them fraying.
Fabric E: 4 full bricks, 2 half bricks. Step two Fold one of the long edges of one of
FABRICS USED Fabric F: 4 full bricks, 2 half bricks. the cushion backs under by 1.5cm ( in) to the
Liberty tana lawn: Mila B; Estelle Step three Cut the backing fabric as follows wrong side (WS) then 1.5cm ( in) again.
and Annabelle B; Oxton; Newland Front lining: 39x39cm (15x15in). Step three Machine stitch this hem into place.
Blue; Ros H; English Field B. Available Back pieces: cut two 25x39cm (10x15in). Step four Repeat this to turn under and hem one
from www.alicecaroline.co.uk long edge of the other cushion backing piece.
MAKING THE ROWS
NOTE Step one The cushion is made up by sewing ASSEMBLING THE CUSHION
Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. eight rows of bricks RS together. Sew each of the Step one Lay your front lining RS up then place
rows as follows. The letter tells you which fabric the assembled patchwork RS up on top.
to use; fb = full brick and hb = half brick. Step two Place the hemmed cushion back
Row 1: Afb, Bfb, Cfb, Dfb. pieces RS down on top of the patchwork so the
Row 2: Ehb, Ffb, Afb, Bfb, Chb. hemmed edges overlap and all the sides are
Row 3: Dfb, Efb, Ffb, Afb. aligned with the patchwork. Pin together. 03
Row 4: Bhb, Cfb, Dfb, Efb, Fhb. Step three Stitch together all the way around. 04
Rows 5-8: repeat rows 1-4. Step four Turn RS out, press well and then put
Step two Once you have stitched all eight rows, the cushion pad in through the envelope
press the seams open. 01 opening to finish.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 41


MY SEWING
WORLD by Tilly Walnes
Tilly Walnes looks forward to spring S ee my patt
and reveals her dressmaking plans erns and on
at shop.tilly line worksh
for the new season, from practical andthebutto ops
ns.com
sportswear to summery frocks.

pring is my favourite time of year. As much as “I’ve been having fun

S I love any excuse to drink mulled everything


and snuggle up in cosy wintry knitwear, there is
something about the dawn of spring that makes
my heart sing. The days are getting lighter, the
birds are singing, and the promise of sunshine is
around the corner – and, of course, we can start thinking
about spring sewing! I love to plan out my seasonal
sewing projects and start pairing patterns with fabrics.
Here’s what I’m looking forward to making this spring.
planning out colour-
blocking combinations.”

Named’s versatile
Helmi tunic is the
perfect throw-on-
and-go outfit for
everyday wear.
ZADIE BY TILLY AND THE BUTTONS
Our own latest sewing pattern release
has become one of my favourites to
make and wear. Designed for
jersey or ponte fabrics, it’s one of
those dresses that you look forward
to wearing as it’s gorgeous and super
comfortable at the same time. I’ve been
having fun planning out colour-blocking
combinations to show off those unusual
diagonal seams, and am itching to make
a nautical version in red, navy and Breton stripes.

HELMI TUNIC BY NAMED


I haven’t tried a Named pattern yet but have my eye
on the Helmi tunic. It’s the kind of dress I’d throw
on for the office on a regular basis, and would look Our latest pattern,
equally good with colourful tights when it’s cold Zadie, is one of my
favourites so far.
or sandals once the weather warms up. I’m It’s great for trying
thinking of making it in a graphic print out new colour
monochrome viscose, which I can jazz up with my and print combos.
favourite bright turquoise necklace.

PNEUMA TANK BY PAPERCUT PATTERNS


You might recognise this tank as part of the yoga outfit
that Charlotte Newland made on last year’s Great British
Sewing Bee. I fell in love with the cross-back detail and I’m gettin
g
handmade active this spring
sportswea (w
r, of cour ith
42 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
se!)
llion
“I’ve made about a mi
Cleos for myself and am not
stopping yet!”

draped vest – the pattern went straight onto my


wish list. I’m planning to make the sports bra in
a black dancewear jersey, with the vest
part in a print jersey from Girl Charlee.
Hopefully having pretty handmade
sportswear will encourage me to
exercise a bit more regularly!

o? Share
Have you made a Cle leo CLEO BY TILLY AND THE BUTTONS
gc
a snap using #sewin
Our Cleo dungaree dress pattern quickly became our
bestseller when we released it last autumn, probably
because it’s fashionable and quick to sew. I’ve made
about a million Cleos for myself and am not stopping
yet! I stumbled upon some Ikea upholstery fabric in
I’ve made lots of
Cleo dresses for my stash – it has an unusual print of plant and insect
myself – and have drawings, which I think would be great for spring.
plenty more on
my sewing list!

I’ll be making
a printed Cleo to
wear layered with
a plain tee for an
easy spring look.

Keeping me inspired...
I’�� �a� on - m� gir crus on
D w O’Por e an� �� �e
p cas ‘Ge I O ’, hic h�
in erview e l� ik� D w
enc an� Ge m Cairne abou
�ei ch c� dres ens�.
Hav� ou b e to �� Lus p ?
I’�� b e ic� an� a
despera � to ever ea en on
�� en .. I ’� a �npredic bl�
an� agica experienc� �t
plent ( ic�) urprise !
I’ us n ve I i D� L These graphic florals
Torr�’� Mexica lklor�- will go nicely with
I’ve been taking time out fro inspire� fl e ecklace . O � f� my spring me-mades!
stitching at the Lush spa. m �� � r �da �s is .

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com
For a m
PSST:
or
the pen e casual look,
cil m
printed skirt in a pl ake
jer ain
obi belt sey fabric an or
in a cla d the
black fa s sic ta
ux leath n or
er .

44 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
golden girl
Learn to draft a pattern and master sewing
with jersey fabric and faux suede with Rosee
Woodland’s slinky skirt and obi belt tutorial.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 45


skirt and obi belt
01 02 03

07 08 09

YOU WILL NEED Designer Rosee Woodland says: “This pattern and divide it by 4.
For the skirt includes everything you need to make a slim- M4: Low waist
Q Medium to heavyweight jersey fitting knit pencil skirt and stylish obi belt. You’ll Take your low waist circumference, which is
fabric: 150cm (60in) width x 1m spend a short time taking measurements and about 10cm (4in) below your natural waist and
(1yd) then drawing out your pattern, but don’t be the level at which you would normally wear
Q Elastic: 3cm (1 in) width x 1m (1yd) intimidated! It’s simple to do and you can make a skirt, then divide it by 4.
Q Fusible hemming tape: to fit both of these projects in a day.” M5: Waist to hip
around hem Take the length from your natural waist to the
Q Patternmaster or French curve MAKING THE SKIRT widest point of your hips. Measure vertically
(optional, but recommended) TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS from your centre front, not diagonally along the
Q Pattern paper Step one Take the following measurements (M) side of your hips.
Q Basic sewing kit and write them down.
M1: Length DRAWING THE PATTERN
For the obi belt For a below-the-knee length skirt this can be You now need to draw out a single pattern piece,
Q Heavyweight woven material, such somewhere between 60 and 75cm (24 and 30in). which will be used to make both the front and
as faux leather or suede: 50x147cm TIP: Measuring your desired skirt length can be back pieces. Both pieces of fabric will be cut on
(20x58in) tricky if you don’t have a friend to help you as the vertical fold. Use a ruler throughout for
Q Basic sewing kit you have to bend over to check the length of the drawing the pattern. Where the pattern tells you
bottom edge. If you have to do this on your own, to ‘square’, join the next line at a right angle
NOTES measure from your natural waist to mid-thigh, relative to the one it refers to. Use the diagram
Q Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance then pinch the tape measure into your leg to on page 48 as a guide to help you.
unless otherwise stated. stop it moving, bend over and let the tape Step one Draw a vertical fold line the length of
Q If you’ve not made a paper pattern measure continue to fall vertically from this point M1, plus 3cm (1 in) for the hem allowance.
before, buy paper marked with to get your final desired skirt length. Step two Label the top of the line A and the
1cm squares, which will make it M2: Waist bottom of the line B.
a little easier to draw accurately. Take your natural waist circumference at the Step three Mark a point down from A the length
narrowest point and divide it by 4. of M5, minus 6cm (2 ⁄ in). Label this C.
M3: Hip Step four Square across from C the length of M3,
Take your hip circumference at the widest point plus 3mm ( ⁄ in). Label this D. This will give you

46 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
skirt and obi belt
04 05 06

10 11 12

a slim fitting hip, which works well with jersey 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) parallel to line G to D at regular STITCHING THE SIDE SEAMS
fabric. If your fabric isn’t very stretchy add up to intervals and then join them together. Step one Pin the skirt front and skirt back RS
1.5cm ( ⁄ in) to M3 for a looser fit. Step three Draw a line that runs parallel, 2cm facing and tack together down the side seams.
Step five Square across from B the same amount. ( in) above lines A to G. Again, use the dots Step two Try your skirt on for fit. If you’re not
Label this E. method from the previous step if you don’t have happy, now is the time to make any adjustments
Step six Join D to E. a curved ruler. by taking in or letting out any parts of the seam.
Step seven Square across from A the length of Step four Draw a rectangle 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) wide and Step three Once you’re happy with any
M4, plus 3mm ( ⁄ in). Label this F. This will give 2cm ( in) high at the corner of where the top adjustments, stitch the side seams where you
you a slim-fitting waist which works well with and side hem allowances meet. This is shaded have placed your tacking stitches then remove
jersey fabric. If your fabric isn’t very stretchy add grey on the diagram to make it easier to spot. them afterwards.
up to 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) to M4 for a looser fit. This This will make sure that your side seams join Step four Press the side seams open. 01
should be the same amount as you added to M3. together neatly at the corner, as it slightly
Step eight Square up from F by 1.25cm ( in). squares off the top of the curved side seam. FITTING THE ELASTIC
Label this G. You need to put on your skirt on for the next bit.
Step nine Join G to D with a diagonal line. Using CUTTING OUT Step one Wrap the elastic around your waist
this diagonal line as a guide, draw a softer curve Step one Fold your skirt fabric in half, parallel to where you want it to sit, just on top of your skirt,
from G to D. If you have one, use a Patternmaster the selvedge with right sides (RS) together. You stretching it slightly.
or French curve. need to cut out two pieces from your fabric, so Step two Overlap the edges of the elastic by
Step ten Mark your fold line and vertical grain fold it over just enough to fit the pattern piece so 2.5cm (1in) and pin together.
lines, using the diagram as a guide. there is space to refold it to cut the second piece. Step three Lift the elastic off over your head and
Step two Pin your paper pattern in place, trim the excess.
ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCES matching the fold line on the pattern to the fold Step four Stitch the overlapped edges together,
Step one Your skirt already includes a hem of the fabric. The fold line should run down the stitching a square all the way around the edges
allowance. This is shown on the diagram for straight grain of the fabric. Cut around the and across in the middle. 02
guidance but you don’t need to label yours. pattern to make your skirt front.
Step two Draw a line that runs parallel, 1.5cm Step three Repeat to cut out the second piece to MAKING THE WAISTBAND
( ⁄ in) to the right of lines G to D and D to E. You’ll make your skirt back. Step one With wrong sides (WS) together, fold
need to make a curved line from G to D. If you Step four Cut a piece for the waistband 13cm the waistband piece of fabric in half lengthways
don’t have a curved ruler you can make dots (5 in) deep and the width of your fabric. and press.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 47


skirt and obi belt
Step two Pin the raw edges together around the Piece C: Cut one piece to a quarter of your waist
PATTERN DIAGRAM
elastic, making sure not to twist the elastic and measurement plus 18.5cm (7 in) in length x
G
pinning next to the elastic but not through it. 30cm (12in) wide.
Step three When you’ve pinned all the way Pieces D: Cut two strips 13cm (5 in) deep x the
A
around, try the waistband on again to make sure width of your fabric. F
that when the elastic is stretched the waistband
is long enough. MAKING THE MAIN BELT PIECE
Step four Once you’re happy with the length of Step one Use a jeans sewing machine needle to
the waistband, remove the elastic, overlap the stitch with. Join the short ends of piece A and
short ends by 2.5cm (1in) and trim off the excess. piece B, RS together using a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam C D
Step five Stitch the short ends together with RS allowance.
facing. Press the seams open. Step two Finger press the seam open and
Step six Fold the waistband in half WS together topstitch 3mm ( ⁄ in) either side of the seam to
again and slip back over the elastic. Pin together hold the seam allowance in place. 06
again as before. Step three Join piece C RS together with the
Step seven Join the long cut edges, using other short end of A using a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam

FOLD LINE - DO NOT CUT


a medium width, medium length zigzag stitch, allowance, but sew as follows. Stitch down the

GRAIN LINE
making sure not to twist the elastic. This seam for 6cm (2 in), leave a 4cm (1 in) gap,
completely encases the elastic, giving a very neat stitch a 10cm (4in) seam, leave a 4cm (1 in) gap
finish to your waistband. 03 then stitch the last 6cm (2 in).
Step four Finger press the seam between piece A
JOINING THE WAISTBAND TO THE SKIRT and piece C open and topstitch either side of the
Step one Pin the waistband to the skirt RS seam as before. 07
together and matching raw edges. Line up the Step five Fold this main belt piece in half
seam in the waistband with the centre back of lengthways with RS together and matching raw
the skirt. edges. Stitch the long edges together using
Step two Ease in the excess skirt fabric by a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance.
stretching it slightly. To make sure your pinning is Step six Turn RS out and press. Topstitch around
even, pin together at quarter points and then the slit 3mm ( ⁄ in) outside the edges of it.
add extra pins in between. 04
Step three Stitch the waistband in place using MAKING THE TIES
a medium width, medium length zigzag stitch Step one Fold each piece D in half lengthways
and a 1.75cm ( in) seam allowance. This will give with WS together and press.
your elastic a little breathing room between it Step two Fold one short edge of each piece B E
and the join with the skirt. under by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the WS and press.
Step four Press the seam downwards towards Step three Fold in the top corner of the folded
the skirt. under edge WS together towards the centre fold
so that you have a triangle shape.
HEMMING THE SKIRT Step four Starting from the triangle shape, fold
Step one Fold the lower edge of the skirt under each long raw edge under by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the
by 3cm (1 in) to the WS and press. WS and press. 08
Step two Hold the turned-under hem in place Step five Clip together with fabric clips as you go
using a fusible hemming tape and medium iron to avoid pin holes in your fabric. 09
following the manufacturer’s instructions. This Step six Topstitch around both long edges and
keeps the fabric stable whilst stitching. the turned under triangle end. 10
Step three Stitch the hem in place from the RS
with two lines of stitching. Work the first 1cm JOINING THE TIES TO THE BELT
( ⁄ in) up from the folded edge and the second Step one Fold the short edges of the main piece
1.5cm ( ⁄ in) up from the folded edge. 05 under by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the WS and press.
Step four Turn the skirt RS out and press with Step two Insert the unstitched end of each tie
a cool iron so you don’t damage the fabric. into the centre of each short edge, tucking it in
by 2.5cm (1in). Hold in place with clips. 11
MAKING THE OBI BELT Step three Check the length of your ties at this
CUTTING OUT point. They are quite generous, so trim them
Step one Cut the fabric into the following pieces: down at the raw edge if needs be and clip in
Piece A: Cut one piece to half of your waist place again. To put your belt on, wrap it around
measurement plus 10cm (4in) in length x 30cm your waist and slot one of the ties through the
(12in) wide. side slit, wrap around your waist and tie in a bow.
Piece B: Cut one piece to a quarter of your waist Step four Once you’re happy with the length of
measurement plus 13.5cm (5 ⁄ in) in length x your ties, topstitch around all edges of the main
30cm (12in) wide. piece, securing the ties in place as you go. 12

48 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Try sewing with suede
(it’s easy!) with blogger
Merrick’s Art.

If our obi belt tutorial on page 44 has


inspired you to add more faux suede
makes to your handmade wardrobe, try
this simple skirt project by fashion and
DIY blogger, Merrick’s Art. Like Merrick,
we’ve been admiring all the 1970s-style
suede skirts in the shops this season, so
of course we’ll be making our own! This
versatile retro style can be worn with so
many of our favourite tops – knits, tees,
blouses, you name it – and can be made
to your measurements for a perfect fit.
See the tutorial at www.merricksart.com

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 49
Refashion

back to basics
Portia Lawrie gives a plain grey sweatshirt a feminine
new look with simple-sew scalloped lace side panels.

50 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Experimen
PSST:
t wit
around th h adding lace
e neckline
cuffs, as and
a yoke at
and back the front
neckline,
replacing or b
or overlay y
sections o i
f the swea ng
tshirt.

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Refashion

01 02 03

04 05 06

YOU WILL NEED REMOVING THE HEM BAND MARKING THE HEM
Q Sweatshirt Step one Start by carefully removing the hem Step one Use pins to mark the sides, centre
Q Border lace fabric or lace motif band from your sweatshirt using a seam ripper. front and centre back of the hem band.
Q Basic sewing kit Step two Remove all the loose threads then put Step two Repeat this to mark the same points
the hem band to one side. 01 on the hem of the sweatshirt. These alignment
MATERIALS USED marks will ensure that the hem band is evenly
We used Teresa extra wide guipure ATTACHING THE LACE distributed around the hem of the sweatshirt
couture bridal lace trimming in ivory. We created these triangle motifs by simply when you stitch it back on in the next step. 04
This shaped trimming is 37cm (14 in) folding a rectangle of the lace in half, right sides
wide at the extremes and made from (RS) together and aligning the scalloped border REATTACHING THE HEM BAND
a lace fabric with corded embroidery edges. To create the triangle, sew diagonally Step one With RS together and raw edges
detail across the surface. From www. from the top corner of the folded rectangle (the aligned, pin the hem band to the hem of the
minervacrafts.com side where the scalloped edges are) to the sweatshirt. Line up and pin the pin markers you
opposite bottom corner. Trim away the folded placed previously then ease the fabric in
edge to within 1cm ( ⁄ in) of your stitching line between them after that. The fabric at the hem
and press seams open and flat. will be a little longer than the hem band so you
Step one Position your lace motif over the side will have to carefully stretch the hem band very
seams and tack it into place once you’re happy slightly to fit. 05
with how it looks. Make sure that the lace Step two Sew the hem band in place using
overlaps the edge of the hem so it will get a stretch or overlock stitch on your sewing
stitched into in the seam later. 02 machine or with an overlocker if you have one.
Step two Stitch the lace in place using a wide Step three Press the seam allowance up
machine zigzag around the edges of the motif towards the sweatshirt itself and then topstitch
with a thread colour matched to the lace. You it in place close to the seam line. Choose thread
can add a couple of rows in the centre of the that matches your fabrics for an invisible finish.
motif too if you’d like to hold it more securely. We used grey thread to topstitch the sweatshirt
Step three Repeat this process on both sides of fabric and cream thread to topstitch the lace
your sweatshirt. 03 panelled section. 06

52 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
denim upcycle ThMaIE t
No.24

into the fray


Try the frayed denim trend with Jessica Entwistle’s
simple statement necklace made with denim scraps.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 53


denim upcycle
01 02 03

04 05 06

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT matching frayed edges, and pin. 02
Q Blue jeans in different shades We used three different shades of denim for Step four Using a zip foot, sew your cord into
Q Cotton piping cord: 5mm ( in) a graduated look, so this project is ideal for using your strip as close to the cord as you can. 03
diameter x 1m (1 yds) up scraps of old jeans. Step five Once all the strips are sewn, fray the
Q Silver curb chain: 80cm (31 in) Step one To get the longest strips from your denim a little more to make it more flexible. 04
Q 2 ribbon clamps: 8x35mm, silver jeans, cut them on the reverse just below the
Q Lobster clasp, silver back pockets. ATTACHING THE RIBBON CLAMPS
Q 4 jump rings: 6mm ( in), silver Step two Cut one strip 6x30cm (2 ⁄ x12in), one Step one Take one of your ribbon clamps, add
Q Jewellery pliers strip 6x28cm (2 ⁄ x11in) and one strip 6x26cm a thin line of glue to the inside, and then push
Q Air erasable marker (2 ⁄ x10 in). We cut the shortest strip from the each one of your frayed denim strips into it,
Q Textile glue darkest denim and the longest from the lightest. starting with the darker strip, then the medium
Q Basic sewing kit on top and then the lighter on top of that.
FRAYING THE LONG SIDES Step two Close the ribbon clamp with your
Step one Mark the centre of each strip jewellery pliers then repeat this on the other end
widthways on the wrong side (WS) of the fabric, of the strips. 05
then mark half way between the centre and the
right long side, three quarters along the width. FINISHING THE NECKLACE
Step two Fray each strip 5mm ( in) in from the Step one Cut four 19cm (7 in) lengths of chain.
left long side. Step two Take two lengths of chain and join one
Step three Fray the right long side up to the three end of each by attaching them to one jump ring.
quarter point you marked earlier. 01 Step three Attach a jump ring to join the other
ends together to make a chain pair. Repeat this
STITCHING THE STRIPS with the other two lengths of chain.
Step one Cut three pieces of cord to the same Step four Attach each pair of chains to your
length as your frayed strips. necklace ribbon clamps with the jump rings.
Step two For each strip, stick your piping cord Step five Attach a lobster clasp to one of the
down the marked central point of your strip jump rings. 06
using a thin line of glue. Step six You can add a chain extender if you wish
Step three Fold the fabric over around the cord, to alter the length of your necklace.

54 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
show us yours with #simplysewingmag
Up Y l
transform it! QUICK
PROJECT

under cover
Jennie Jones shows you
how to transform an old
chunky cable knit jumper
into a tactile cushion cover.

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transform it!
01 02

03 04

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT pattern matches on both sides.


Q Cable knit jumper Step one Place your cushion pad on top of
Q Cushion pad your jumper to make sure it fits with a little STITCHING TOGETHER
Q Basic sewing kit space. We used a cushion pad measuring Step one Pin the two pieces of jumper you’ve
40x40cm (16x16in) for ours. 01 cut out for the front and back of the cushion
NOTE Step two Now cut the jumper down the side right sides (RS) together down the sides and
Q Use a 3cm (1 in) seam allowance. seams and across the shoulder seams, across the back. Make sure you keep the
removing the sleeves. The front and back of jumper cable pattern evenly matched up on
the jumper will be used for the front and back the front and back as you pin. 02
of your cushion cover. Step two Sew the two pieces together, starting
Step three Measure the size of your cushion at the bottom of one side at the jumper ribbed
pad and add 3cm (1 in) to each side and 3cm hem then stitching across the top and down
(1 in) to the top edge. The bottom rib of the the other side to finish. Make sure you reverse
jumper will be used for the bottom of the stitch at the beginning and end to keep the
cushion cover so you don’t need to add stitching secure. 03
a seam allowance to this side. This seam
allowance is slightly bigger than normal as it’s FINISHING OFF
easier to work with the extra room when Step one Turn your cushion cover RS out and
stitching knitting together. put the cushion pad inside.
Step four Cut the front of your jumper to these Step two Slip stitch the lower edge together,
measurements, keeping the rib at the bottom working your stitches through the bottom of
edge uncut. the front ribbed edge and into the back ribbed
Step five Repeat this to cut the back of the edge for a neat finish. Use a matching thread
jumper to the same size and in the same so the stitches sit just inside the knitting and
position on the jumper so that the cable can’t be seen. 04

56 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Calligraphy: Oh Wonder Calligraphy
Photography: Philippa Sian Photography

12-14 May 2017


Ragley, Warwickshire

A weekend of shopping, inspiration and


hands-on craft workshops, hosted by
Kirstie Allsopp, Liz Earle, and
Patrick Grant.
Quote SEWING3 to save up to £10
on tickets and to receive a free book.

For full info and tickets, visit thehandmadefair.com/ragley

In association with Official partner The Handmade Fair @handmadefair The Handmade Fair @handmadefair

Booking fees apply. Offer ends 23.59 on 30.04.2017 or when sold out. £10 saving based on VIP tickets (£85 face value, £75 with offer). Books are published by Pavilion
Books (www.pavilionbooks.com). You will receive one of a selection of four Mollie Makes books (RRP £9.99), subject to availability
a good read
Caroline in her element at her
sewing machine. She has always
had a passion for creative pursuits,
but with sewing she says “it was
love at first stitch.” We can certainly
relate to that!

Caroline’s bright, fresh


and contemporary
design style means her
fabrics are loved by both
mothers and minis!

MODERN SEAMSTRESS
Designer and blogger Caroline Hulse has crafted a varied career in sewing
inspired by a lifelong love of beautiful textiles. We discover how she will be
sharing her creativity in a new way with her debut sewing book.
Photo left : Sarah Delanie; Photo right: www.sewcaroline.com

aroline Hulse of www.sewcaroline.com outlet,” she says. “I was given a Janome to sleep on – such a neat concept!”

C describes herself as a mama, wife,


sewing enthusiast, pattern designer
and fabric designer – mostly, but not
always, in that order. Her fresh, modern
approach to creating beautiful
garments from the fabrics she dreams up
makes hers a truly holistic approach.
It all makes sense when she admits that for
her sewing began as an attempt to harness
Magnolia 7330. I didn’t know anything about
sewing, but I was determined to learn. It was
love at first stitch.” Her passion is based
around a longstanding infatuation with
fabrics. “I had tried scrapbooking, painting
and other things, but was always drawn to
fabric,” she says. “Before I sewed, I bought
fabric for no purpose other than I loved the
way it looked. So learning to sew was
Caroline’s popular Sew Caroline blog
followed soon after. “I wrote about family,
sewing, projects, DIYs, pattern reviews, and
so on and on,” she exclaims. “My blog is what
launched me into this online world and I have
a major soft spot in my heart for the days
I used to create a project and blog about it!”

TEXTILE TEMPTATIONS
and focus her creative urges. “I asked for a natural progression from my fabric Caroline’s love of fabrics ensured that the
a sewing machine for Christmas 2008, with obsession. I loved the idea of turning fabric blog was beautifully visual, and led to the
the intention of having a simple creative into something to wear or to decorate with or next chapter in her creative journey.

58 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
a good read
“I had done blogging work for Pat Bravo of industry – I owe a lot of my success to her.”
Art Gallery Fabrics where I created a project Caroline’s pattern business and fabric
with her fabrics and featured them on my design business feed into one another nicely,
blog. We had a fabulous relationship and she with one frequently informing the other.
reached out after Quilt Market in 2013.” “Often when I’m designing my fabrics or
Designing fabrics and designing sewing patterns, I think of the other and try to allow
patterns have always worked together arm in them to flow with one another nicely. There
arm for Caroline. “It all happened around the is something quite rewarding about seeing
same time. I had been blogging for a while a pattern you designed sewn in fabric that
and designing/hacking my own patterns for you also designed.” Sounds like a dream!
a couple of years, and at the beginning of About 18 months ago Caroline decided to
2014 I released my first pattern, the Out and change the look and feel of the blog to
About Dress. Then match the gradual
just a few months “I HAD BEEN BLOGGING FOR A WHILE AND changes that have
later in that same occurred as her sewing
year, my first DESIGNING/HACKING MY OWN PATTERNS FOR business and brand
collection with Art
Gallery Fabrics,
A COUPLE OF YEARS, AND AT THE BEGINNING have taken off.
“I wasn’t blogging as
Gleeful, was OF 2014 I RELEASED MY FIRST PATTERN.” often and I hated for
released. It was people to come to my
a crazy exciting year for my little business.” site and see outdated blog posts right off the
Gleeful was chosen by Art Gallery Fabrics bat,” she says. “Now, my site is a landing pad
to be a part of their AGF Limited Edition for my shop, which sells my patterns, and my
project. “What an honour that was!” Caroline blog which heavily promotes my patterns
enthuses. “I have never been so surprised and fabrics. It’s always a work in progress, but
and grateful for someone to believe in me so I’m proud of where my website is today.” There will soon be
much that they would entrust such a huge another book to
project to me. I have a wonderful relationship FAMILY MINDED add to Caroline’s
collection – her own
with Pat Bravo of AGF and she has taught me Caroline’s blog, fabrics and sewing projects debut sewing title.
so much about design and about the all adhere to the same aesthetics and

Caroline with two friends


proudly modelling her Out
and About Dress and San
Francisco Swing Dress
patterns. The Out and About
Dress was Caroline’s first
sewing pattern release.
Photos: www.sewcaroline.co.uk

Above: Caroline likes to start every new


design or sewing project with an organised
workspace – although she admits that it
doesn’t usually stay that way for long!

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 59


a good read
attitudes to life, where even the most products for marketing and sewing just for favourite: “My favourite technique – when I’m
practical items have no excuse not to be fun! It’s a crazy busy season of life, but not feeling lazy – is a French seam. I LOVE the
beautiful, and family is at the heart of it all. I wouldn’t have it any other way.” look of French seams on the inside of
This ethos is particularly evident in her Happy When it comes to designing sewing clothes,” she says. The best part of all sewing
Home fabric collection. “I love the quote, patterns, Caroline loves “translating fashion projects, she adds, has to be “the final
‘Family is not an important thing, it is trends into my own style and making them product and sharing it with my loyal friends
everything,’” Caroline explains. “Happy Home work for busy ladies.” She adds: “I find on the Internet – that is such a fun and
is a collection dedicated to my family. The inspiration for my sewing pattern designs gratifying experience!”
prints have a homey feel and the words on everywhere – Caroline works on new
the text prints, To Live By are words that I use sometimes I have designs in her home
to describe what my family means to me.” to run home and “I FIND INSPIRATION FOR MY SEWING PATTERN studio. “We just moved,
Living in Fort Worth, Texas, with her sketch it out before so I don’t have the new
husband, David, and their daughter, Tinsley, I can even continue
DESIGNS EVERYWHERE – SOMETIMES I HAVE one set up quite yet, but
fitting all the aspects of her life around one with my day.” TO RUN HOME AND SKETCH IT OUT BEFORE I think it will look very
another can be a challenge. “Before I quit my For her fabric similar to our old home,”
full-time job at a local quilt shop, I taught collections, her I CAN EVEN CONTINUE WITH MY DAY.” she says. “I love working
classes all the time,” she says. “It was one of main goal is to in bright, natural light, an
my most favorite things to do, and still is. create vivid, uplifting designs, keeping her uncluttered workspace (for the beginning of
I love seeing the excitement in people’s eyes own passion for sewing firmly in mind. a project, anyway!) and a comfortable chair.”
the first time they successfully sew “I love incorporating interesting colour While her crammed schedule makes it
something new. Unfortunately, I don’t get to palettes with a mix of vibrant florals and difficult to find time to read blogs, steady
teach often these days. I have my one-year- geometric type prints,” she enthuses. “I also favourites she has read regularly over the
old to keep up with, plus my sewing pattern LOVE including text prints in each of my years include Merrick’s Art (www.merricksart.
business and fabric designing.” collections – those are really fun to design com) and Sewbon (www.sewbon.com).
As it is, Caroline crowbars most of her work and to sew with.” “Merrick’s Art used to be primarily
in between naptimes and late into the night. a sewing tutorial blog and I’ve been watching
“As a small business owner, I have lots of irons LOOKING FORWARD TO THE WEEKEND her transition from DIY to fashion blogger,”
in the fire: emails, pattern drafting, fabric These days, Caroline is devoted to her Caroline comments. “She still posts fashion
designing, marketing, shop upkeep, Janome Skyline S7 sewing machine and tutorials, but her content is now primarily
customer service, and the list goes on,” she Janome 7034D Magnolia serger. When it store-bought fashion. I guess I resonate with
says. “Not to mention sewing samples, comes to sewing techniques, she has a firm her style and love all the things she sews and

Photos: Sarah Delanie

Left and right: Caroline interprets trends in


her own style and designs patterns with
“busy ladies” in mind. Her range includes
easy-to-wear staples like the San Francisco
Swing Dress (left) and Parkside Shorts.

60 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
Below: Caroline’s enviable home studio,
with plenty of natural light and clever
storage, is where the design magic
happens. A happy place indeed!
Photo: Sarah Delanie; Photos right and below: www.sewcaroline.com

The Magnolia Shorts


pattern offers the best
of both worlds, with the
look of a floaty skirt and
the comfort of a pair of
shorts. We’ll be sewing
up a pair this summer!

wears.” Denver-based Erin of Sewbon is


actually a personal friend of Caroline’s. “I love
all the content she produces. Her tutorials are
top-notch and inspiring and her
photography is always well done.”
When she is not working on designs,
Caroline likes nothing better than to relax
and get outdoors with her family. “I enjoy
watching The Blacklist with my husband and
taking my daughter and dog Sammie on
walks,” she says. “We love to walk in our
neighbourhood and along the Trinity River
that isn’t too far from our house.”
Upcoming adventures include new fabric
and sewing pattern releases, but at the
moment her attention is firmly focused on
the release of her first book, Sew Caroline
Weekend Style, in April 2017.
“I have been working on my Weekend Style CAROLINE’S TOP STITCHING ADVICE
book for about two years now – wow!” says “There is ALWAYS more than one way of
Caroline. “It’s a compilation of garment doing something – don’t be scared to try
patterns and bag patterns for the modern being creative with your sewing!”
seamstress. I am so excited for people to
have it in their hands.” Sew Caroline Weekend Style by Caroline
Right: Caroline’s book has 15 projects to sew Hulse is published by Fons & Porter
Find Caroline at www.sewcaroline.com for the weekend, for everything from
and on Instagram @sewcaroline brunch to lounging around the house (as if (£18.99). www.fonsandporter.com
Written by Judy Darley. we needed an excuse to do that!).

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 61


Recycle your magazine and
seven days later it could come
back as your newspaper.

www.recyclenow.com
Fast fat quarter

QUICK
PROJECT
u 1f
Qu R e

garden party
Get your garden blooming this spring with Jennie Jones’
retro pocket-front apron made from one fat quarter.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 63


Fast fat quarter
01 02

03 04

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT ASSEMBLING THE APRON


Q 1 fat quarter Step one Cut the contrast fabric strip for the Step one Turn under the short sides and the
Q Contrast plain fabric: 30x70cm waistband into three strips, each measuring bottom long edge of the apron fabric by 2cm
(12x28in) 10x70cm (4x28in). ( in) then the same again and press. Leave the
Q Bias binding: 52cm (20 in) Step two Cut the fat quarter as follows: top edge raw.
Q Basic sewing kit Main apron: 31x56cm (12x22in). Step two Pin the pocket onto the apron,
Pocket: 15x52 (6x20 in). positioning it 5cm (2in) up from the hemmed
FABRIC USED lower edge and matching the short sides.
Floral from Sweet Escape by Bethan MAKING THE WAISTBAND Step three Turn the ends of the bias binding at
Janine for Dashwood Studio. Ref: Step one Pin two waistband strips right sides the top of the pocket under to meet the apron
SUES1188. Available from www. (RS) together at right angles and then sew sides and pin into place.
sewcraftyonline.co.uk together diagonally across. 01 Step four Stitch the side and lower hems of the
Step two Trim the seam and press open. apron and pocket into place.
Step three Join on the other strip in the same
way to make one long strip. FINISHING THE POCKET
Step four Fold the strip in half lengthways Step one To make the pocket divides, measure
wrong sides (WS) together then press under all and mark three equally spaced vertical lines
the raw edges by 1cm ( ⁄ in) to the WS. 02 down the pocket then stitch them into place.
Step two Stitch along the bottom of the pocket.
MAKING THE POCKET
Step one Turn the short sides and bottom long ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND
edge of the pocket piece under by 2cm ( in) to Step one Fold then pin the pressed under
the WS and press, leaving the top edge raw. waistband edge around the top of the apron,
Step two Fold the bias binding around the top with the apron placed centrally. Position the top
raw edge so there is 2cm ( in) extending of the apron 1cm ( ⁄ in) inside the waistband. 04
beyond either side of the turned-under short Step two Stitch the waistband together 5mm
sides and pin. ( in) up from the folded under edges. Stitch
Step three Topstitch the binding in place along down the sides and along the length, encasing
the top of the pocket. 03 the top of the apron as you go.

64 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
No_ 05
c o &K p
Co E e
Pi I

Essentia l
KILLS
Slibrary
Master essential sewing and dressmaking techniques with our
cut-out-and-keep guides. This issue, we take you through how
to make and add covered piping to your sewing projects.

overed piping, also called welting, is which is sometimes called twist cord. It’s Cut along the mark through both layers of

C a technique that gives a neat and


professional-looking finish to your
projects. It adds an outline and
definition to the edges as well as
strengthening seams on upholstered
items such as chair seat covers. It’s a good
way to add a little contrasting colour to an
item, or it can be made in the same colour for
a more subtle detail. Covered piping can also
usually pre-shrunk but shrinkage can still
occur with washing so it’s best to shrink the
cord before you work with it. To do this, put
your cord in a pillowcase to stop it tangling
then pop it in the washing machine or hand
wash it in very hot water. Make sure it’s
completely dry before you sew with it.
Piping cord is available in a variety of
thicknesses, which are usually labelled with
folded fabric, take the cord out and you can
measure the cut fabric strip width you need.
You’ll need to cut a fabric strip to the same
length as the cord you’ve calculated. You
many need to join fabric strips to get the
required length, so add extra to your
measurement to allow for the seams.

CUTTING THE FABRIC STRIPS


be used in dressmaking, again between a number – the lower the number, the If you cut your fabric strip on the bias then it
seams, such as between a dress bodice and narrower the cord. Numbers 3-5 are the sizes will have a little stretch, which makes it easier
waistband. It defines curves really well so is commonly used in soft furnishings, and to go around curves and corners without it
added as a feature as well as for a neat finish. narrower cords for dressmaking. gathering or wrinkling. If you are only going
You can buy bias binding tape, which you to be piping a straight seam then you can cut
simply unfold and press flat, but the colour MEASURING UP your strip across the width of the fabric.
and width options are limited. It’s easy to Once you’ve decided the cord width, you The bias is at 45° to the grainline of the
make your own in any colour, print or width need to work out how much cord and fabric fabric (the grain runs parallel to the fabric
you like. It just takes a little care and patience, to buy. Measure the total length of the seams selvedge). Lay your fabric flat, right side up,
but the finished result is well worth the effort. you want to pipe then add 20cm (8in) to this. with the selvedge running along one side.
This will give you enough extra to go around Fold the fabric over diagonally so the cut
CHOOSING PIPING CORD curves and corners and also for joining. edge is parallel to the selvedge and press this
Piping cord usually comes in white in a choice Next, work out the width of the fabric strips fold. Now unfold it and this diagonal pressed
of thicknesses. Mostly you’ll see it sold by the you’ll need to cover the cord. Decide what line is the bias. Draw lines parallel to this
metre and it can be made from 100% cotton, seam allowance you’ll be using, then fold diagonal line to the width you calculated
a cotton and polyester mix, paper, or foam a strip of fabric around the cord and pin it earlier and cut along them. Alternatively, you
depending on the use. For most sewing uses together close to the cord. Measure the seam can use a rotary cutter and ruler to make the
it’s best to use the 100% cotton piping cord, allowance outwards from this pin and mark. cutting out process quicker and easier.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 65


essential skills

01 02 03

04 05 06

JOINING THE STRIPS Step three Using a zip foot, or a piping foot if Step two Place the two ends RS together and
To reduce bulk in the seams when joining the you have one, stitch all the layers together as machine stitch along these pencil lines. Trim
fabric strips, stitch them at a 45° angle. close to the piping cord as you can, which will the seam and press open then lay it flat. 05
Step one Place one strip right side (RS) up then be your seam allowance. It will help if you
place another RS down on top at a right angle. swing your sewing machine needle over, if you JOINING THE PIPING CORD
Step two Draw a diagonal line from one corner can, to get as close as possible to create a nice There are several ways of doing this, but this
to the other then pin the strips together. tight piping on the outside. 02 method gives a neat end result.
Step three Sew along this drawn line. 01 Step one Trim the cord so that it overlaps by
Step four Trim the seam allowance to 5mm ATTACHING CORD AROUND CURVES 2cm ( in) at the centre pin mark.
( in) then press the seam open. Join all the Step one For curved seams, for example on Step two Just for the length the cords overlap,
strips together in the same way. a cushion cover, it’s best to attach the cord in remove half of the strands from each cord by
two steps. Mark the centre of the lower edge snipping them and pulling them out.
COVERING THE CORD of the cushion back with a pin. Step three Twist the two ends together then
Step one Fold and pin the strip wrong sides Step two Leave 5cm (2in) of the covered wrap the joined cord with thread and then
(WS) together around the cord so the raw piping free for joining later then pin it to the stitch together. 06
edges of the strip are matching and the cord is left of the centre which you marked, matching Step four Place the joined cord inside the fold
encased centrally within. Make sure the piping raw edges. of the joined fabric strip and tack in place to
cord doesn’t twist inside the strip. Step three Starting 10cm (4in) away from this the cushion back.
Step two Using a zip foot, stitch the folded point, tack your piping strip to the cushion
fabric strip together, making sure your stitches back close to the machine stitching. 03 STITCHING THE COVERED PIPING IN PLACE
come within the seam allowance. You don’t Step four When you reach a corner, snip the Step one Place the cushion front RS together
need to stitch close to the cord at this stage. piping strip almost down to the cord, turn it on top of the cushion back and covered piping
around the corner and tack firmly in place. and pin into place. Any closures such as
ATTACHING TO A STRAIGHT SEAM Step five Continue tacking the piping strip all buttons or zips should have been added
Step one For a straight seam, match the raw the way around your cushion back in the same before this point.
edges of the fabric strip to the raw edges of way until you reach 10cm (4in) from the other Step two Stitch slowly and carefully around
the piece of fabric that you want to stitch the side of the centre pin. 04 the cushion. When you reach the corners
piping into, RS together. make sure the piping cord is pushed to the
Step two Place the other piece of fabric on top JOINING THE ENDS inside of the cushion so you don’t stitch
RS together again, matching raw edges. Pin Step one Overlap the ends of the piping strip through the cord.
the raw edges of the two pieces of fabric and and mark where they cross at the central pin in Step three Turn your fabric RS out and remove
fabric strip together. pencil on the WS of both fabric strips. any visible tacking stitches to complete.

66 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
sitting pretty
Transform a plain storage chest or
bench seat into a statement piece
with DK Books’ modern cushion
finished with contrast piping.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 67
bench cushion
01 02 03

07 08 09

YOU WILL NEED CALCULATING THE CUTTING SIZES ( ⁄ in) seam allowance added all the way around.
Q Main fabric Step one Choose the right thickness of foam for Zip bands: Two bands, each measuring L in
Q Contrast fabric for piping your cushion and have a piece cut to match the length and of H in width, with a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in)
Q Piping cord length (L) and width (W) of your bench. For seam allowance added all the way around.
Q Continuous zip a bench like this one, 10cm (4in) thick foam is
Q Foam a good choice. The height (thickness) of the foam CUTTING OUT
Q Wadding is measurement H (see measuring diagram). Step one Cut out all the fabric pieces from the
Q Stockinette Step two Use the measurements of the foam pad main fabric using your calculations. You need
Q Matching thread to calculate the sizes of the fabric pieces you one seat top, one seat bottom, two short side
Q Basic sewing kit need to cut. bands, one long side band and two zip bands. 01
Top and bottom of seat: Two pieces measuring L Step two You need two continuous lengths of
NOTES in length and W in width with a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam piping strip fabric cut from the contrast fabric
Q The instructions detail how to allowance added all the way around. each 2L + 2W + 4cm (1 ⁄ in) long and 4cm (1 ⁄ in)
measure up and calculate the sizes Side bands: Two short bands, each measuring W wide. You will most probably have to cut several
and dimension of the materials you in length and H in width with a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam strips to get the correct length.
will need to make your cushion. allowance added all the way around. One long
Q Use a 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. band, L in length and H in width with a 1.5cm MAKING THE COVERED PIPING
Step one Take two of the piping strips and place
them right sides (RS) together at right angles and
MEASURING DIAGRAM stitch together diagonally. Trim the seam then
open out and press.
L
Step two Join all the strips together in the same
W way to make one long strip.
H
FOAM Step three Fold the joined piping strip wrong
sides (WS) together around the piping cord and
stitch the raw edges just 1cm ( ⁄ in) from the edge
so that these stitches won’t show later.
Step four Take the seat top fabric and starting in
the centre of the long side which will be at the

68 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
show us yours with #simplysewingmag
bench cushion
04 05 06

10 11 12

back, pin the covered piping cord all the way Step six Repeat to attach the other side of the the corners from the inside. Press well all over to
around the edge. Make sure you line up the raw zip to the turned-under long edge of the other remove any creases.
edges and clip the piping strip at the corners so zip band.
it curves around neatly. 02 FINISHING THE CUSHION
Step five Stitch the piping strip in place stopping JOINING THE SIDE BANDS Step one Cut a piece of wadding 1 times the
8cm (3 ⁄ in) from where you started. 03 Step one Stitch the side bands RS together length of your bench. Wrap it around the foam
Step six Trim and join the two short ends of the along the short edges to make one continuous pad, fold in the ends and secure with some
piping strip fabric to fit exactly together. 04 piece by joining a short side band to the long loose tacking stiches. The wadding will give
Step seven Splice the cord by removing half the band then joining another side band to the your cushion a plump, soft appearance and
strands from each end then wind them together other short edge of the long band. 08 makes it more comfortable to sit on, too.
for a neat join. Stitch the joined piping strip Step two Pin the back band with zip inserted to Step two Cut a piece of stockinette twice the
around the cord and to the cushion top. 05 the ends of the short side bands then stitch into length of your bench. To make it easier to insert
Step eight Repeat this whole process to attach place, securing the ends of the zip tape. 09 the wadding-wrapped foam in the cover, wrap
covered piping all the way around the edge of Step three Press the seam allowances open. it in stockinette in the same way.
the seat bottom fabric. Step three Slip the foam into the cover and close
ASSEMBLING THE COVER the zip to finish. Pinch the zip together as you
INSERTING THE ZIP Step one Pin the joined side bands to the seat pull the zip pull to help close it and reduce the
Step one Turn then press one long side under by top with covered piping attached. 10 strain on the pull and teeth. 12
1.5cm ( ⁄ in) to the WS on each zip band. Step two Starting at one end of the zip panel
Step two Cut a length of continuous zip slightly and back long edge of the piped seat top, stitch
longer than the zip bands. RS together close to the piping. 11
Step three Insert a zip pull into the zip and Step three Pivot your sewing machine needle at This bench cushion is
secure the ends of the zip tape with a pin. each corner and continue stitching the band all one of 25 ideas for
Step four Align the pressed edge of one of the the way around the top cushion piece. updating your home
zip bands with the zip teeth, as shown, and pin Step four Open up the zip all the way in the featured in Cushions,
into place. 06 joined zip band then join the side panels RS Curtains & Blinds Step by
Step five Using a zip foot, stitch the zip into together to the seat bottom piece in exactly the Step, published by DK
place as close to the zip as possible while still same way. Books (£12.99), from
leaving room for the zip to open. 07 Step five Turn your cover RS out, pushing out www.dk.com

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 69


The Fold Line celebrate their
well-deserved Sewing Blog
of the Year award win.

“In 2017, more than 21,500


votes were cast with
almost 5k of those
being for the sewing
awards. Thank you!”

Now in its 19th year, the British Craft Awards have


introduced sewing categories for the first time. We take
a look behind the scenes at this prestigious event.
Written by Judy Darley.

S
ince their launch in 1998, the British and sewing.” There are 25 awards in all, five
Craft Awards (BCA) have served as for each sector, with each magazine’s teams
a means for readers of Immediate nominating the specialist businesses that
Media’s magazines to celebrate the have caught, and held, their attention.
craft brands and individuals they Right from the start, though, our readers’
love. In the early days, the focus was opinions have been an essential part of the
on cross stitch and papercrafts, but in 2017 process, as we canvassed for suggestions on
sewing has been included for the very first social media and in the magazine even at
time, and we’re thrilled to be able to reward this early stage. “Our magazine teams are
some of our favourite sewing brands and experts in their fields, as are many of our
bloggers and be part of the excitement. readers,” says Anna. “Once the suggestions
BCA organiser Anna Davenport has been are in, magazine editors whittle these down
Photo top: www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk

involved since the ceremony’s beginnings. to ten nominees for each award.”
Janome won two awards at
this year’s event: “We would “Between 300 and 400 people attend each The nominees are then announced in the
like to say a big thank you to all year,” she says. “The plan was always to magazines and online, and the readers
the people who voted for us.” introduce more awards for categories such invited to make their selections for each
as sewing and yarn crafts, and this year category. In 2017, more than 21,500 votes
we’ve had awards across five sectors: were cast with almost 5k of those being for
quilting and patchwork; cross the sewing awards. The awards themselves
stitch; papercrafts; yarn crafts take place following a trade show at the NEC

70 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
A GOOD READ
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
in Birmingham. “What began as a small
selection of retailer awards 19 years ago has 1st
become the biggest red carpet event in the FIRST PLACE
craft calendar,” says Anna. “A lot of planning Debbie Shore
goes into making the event as glitzy and fun Sewing has been a hobby, an interest and a necessity for
as possible.” Preparations include a whole Debbie Shore for as long as she can remember, becoming
afternoon of rehearsals, giving us a chance to the focus of her career over the last few years.
practice, stutter and shake off a few nerves! “My mum taught me to sew before I can remember,,
Once the trade show wraps up for the day but my day job for over 30 years has been in television,”
at 5pm, our nominees and other craft says Debbie. This included children’s shows, acting in
companies zip over to the Concourse Suite for soaps and presenting on shopping channels, which is “The best par
t of my career
feedback from
the event. “We serve drinks and nibbles, and where she eventually began to specialise in sewing my customeris the
sometimes have magicians, singing waiters or shows. When she tried her hand at writing sewing books, s.”
celebrity lookalikes. It’s a chance for people to she became a bestselling craft author, with ten books
mingle and have a good time.” already published and six more on the way.
This year, a #SelfieMirror with props galore Debbie still makes appearances on sewing shows, but now she’s showcasing her own
allowed for plenty of pre-ceremony giggles, patterns, templates and more. “The best part of my career is the feedback from my
while a taster of Immediate Media’s new TV customers, and the thought that I’ve inspired anybody to start, or re-start, sewing gives me
channel dedicated to sewing, Sewing Quarter a real buzz.” To be nominated for an award, she says, “is one of the most exciting,
(www.sewingquarter.com), went down a treat. unexpected things! Sewers are a savvy bunch, and to receive recognition and appreciation
Before long everyone’s attention was drawn for my work is a real thrill. As an individual it’s very satisfying to know I’m on the right track
to the stage with a raffle, and then the awards with the projects and products I design, which in turn will help my company grow in the
began. Each winner was called up on stage by right direction.” Find out more about Debbie at www.debbieshore.tv
Sewing Quarter presenters John Scott and
Natasha McCarty to receive a beautifully
crafted (naturally!) glass trophy to show off DESIGNER OFsewing
accessible THE YEAR
patterns and online
and a bottle of fizz. “We treat it like the SECOND
workshops,
PLACE with
SEW theOVER
aim ofIT.
getting
SEW OVER
more
Oscars,” says Anna, “with the winners’ names IT ALSO
people WON
into FIRST
makingPLACEtheir own
AS RETAILER
clothes.
in envelopes to increase the tension.” OF ItTHE
makes
YEAR.it all worthwhile to know that
Times have moved on since the early days THIRDour hard
PLACE workTILLY
has beenANDrecognised
THE BUTTONSby
of the awards. “When we launched BCA, Tillythese
Walnesawards
is the–founder
it’s a great
andmotivator
director of
to
online wasn’t an option for many people, so Tillykeep
and doing
the Buttons,
what we which
do. I’m
creates
so grateful to
readers filled in a coupon in the magazine and gorgeous,
each person
easy-to-use
who has sewing
takenpatterns
the timeand
to
posted it in!” Anna recalls. “Now readers can online
nominate
workshopsor vote
forfor
DIYusdressmakers.
– we really do
Tilly
vote on their mobiles, tablets, laptops and is the
have
author
the kindest,
of the award
most winning
creative and
computers. One lucky voter is chosen at bestselling
generous book
customers
Love atin First
theStitch,
world!”
and her
random to win a £100 Amazon voucher. Not blog See
hasTilly’s
beenpatterns
read by andoverworkshops
3 million people
at
bad for less than five minutes effort.” around
www.tillyandthebuttons.com
the world. Oh and she’s addicted to
The key ethos at the heart of it all, however, Breton stripes!
is that the recipients of these awards are SECOND PLACE
“My team and I were over the moon to be “It’s a great motivator
chosen by you, the readers, making this a way Sew Overfor
nominated It. Sewing
Sew Over It alsoofwon
Designer the Year in to keep doing what we
do. I’m so grateful.”
to show your appreciation for the companies, first
the place
British in the
Craft Retailer
Awards,” saysof the“We
Tilly. Year
put
brands and individuals who have helped you socategory.
much loveTurn and to page 73
attention intofor Lisa
creating
learn new skills on your sewing journey. Comfort’s
inspiring andthoughts
accessibleon the awards.
sewing patterns and
Thanks for being a part of it all! online workshops, with the aim of getting
THIRD PLACE
more people into making their own clothes.
ItTilly
makes and the
it all Buttons to know that our
worthwhile
hard
Tillywork
Walnes hasisbeen
the founder
recognised
and bydirector
these
awards
of Tilly-and
it’s athe
great
Buttons,
motivator
which tocreates
keep doing
what
gorgeous,
we do.easy-to-use
I’m so grateful
patterns
to each andperson
who
online
hasworkshops
taken the timefor DIY
to nominate
dressmakers. or vote
for
Tilly
usis– the
we really
authordo ofhave
the award-winning
the kindest, most
creative
and bestselling
and generous
book Love
customers
at Firstin the world!”
Stitch,
Find
andouther more
blog hasat www.tillyandthebuttons.com
been read by over 3
million people around the world. Oh, and
she’s addicted to wearing Breton stripes!
“My team and I were over the moon to
be nominated for Sewing Designer of the
Year,” says Tilly. “We put so much love
and attention into creating inspiring and
Simply Sewing Production Editor
Michelle (far right) celebrates with
fellow sewists and bloggers.
Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 71
A GOOD READ
PRODUCT
DESIGNER OFYEAR
OF THE THE YEAR
1st BRAND OF THE YEAR
SECOND PLACE SEW OVER IT. SEW OVER
FIRST PLACE
IT ALSO WON FIRST PLACE AS RETAILER FIRST PLACE
OFJanome
THIRD
525S sewing machine.
THE YEAR.
Janome also achieved
PLACE TILLY AND first
sewing Brand of the Year category.
BUTTONS
THEplace in the 1st Janome
It seems lots of you are fans of Janome
sewing machines, as the brand scooped
Tilly Walnes isinthe
Established thefounder andJanome
UK in 1969, director of two awards this year! “We were delighted
“Our machines can help
Tilly and
offers anthe Buttons,range
extensive which ofcreates
sewing inspire people to sew.” to discover that Simply Sewing readers had
gorgeous,
machines easy-to-use
and overlockers sewing patterns
designed forand nominated Janome for two British Craft
online
ease ofworkshops for DIY dressmakers.
use to encourage Tilly
sewists of all skill Awards,” says creative director Deborah.
islevels
the author
to haveofathego award winning
at stitching theirand
own bestselling
garmentsbook Love at First Stitch, and her
and homewares.
blog has2been
Over millionread by overmachines
Janome 3 millionhave
people beenaround
sold in the theworld. Oh and
UK, with she’s60addicted
around million
to Breton
sold stripes! “Janome is renowned for quality and reliability at affordable prices
worldwide. SECOND PLACE
“Myour
and team
aimand I were
is to overcustomers
provide the moonwith to beannominated
unrivalled for Sewing
level Designer
of service,” saysof the Year
creative Brother Sewing. They also achieved
indirector
the British Craft Awards,”
Deborah Shepherd.says“OurTilly.
aim“Weis toput so much
supply love and attention
good-quality into creating
reliable sewing second place in Product of the Year
inspiring
machinesand accessible prices
at affordable sewingand patterns andappreciate
we really online workshops, with the
readers taking theaim
timeof to
getting with their 1034D overlocker.
more
endorsepeople into making
our brand. their like
We would owntoclothes.
say a big It makes
thank you it allto
worthwhile to know
all the people who that
votedour
hard work
for us.” Shehas been
adds: “Werecognised
take greatbypride
these inawards - it’s a great
our products beingmotivator
innovativetoandkeepthedoing THIRD PLACE
what we do.
features I’measy
being so grateful
to use. to
Oureach personcan
machines whohelphasinspire
taken the timeto
people tosew
nominate
troubleorfree
vote Singer
for
and usexpress
– we really
theirdo have theWe
creativity. kindest,
really most
enjoycreative
seeing our andcustomers’
generous customers
projects and in the Singer have been inspiring and helping
world!”
connectFind out more
regularly at www.tillyandthebuttons.com
on Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram.” See more at www.janome.co.uk sewing enthusiasts for more than 150
years. Richard Bogod
is Director of Bogod &
SECOND PLACE acknowledgement of our hard work. We’re Co Ltd, the exclusive
Brother Sewing 1034D overlocker. so grateful to be recognised for the part we UK distributor for
Brother Sewing also achieved second play in the creative industry.” For more Singer Sewing
place in Brand of the Year. information visit www.brothersewing.co.uk Machines. “There’s no
With more than 100 years of craft industry better feeling than to
experience behind them, Brother Sewing is be nominated by the
a market leader in the manufacturing of THIRD PLACE people who buy and
innovative and stylish sewing and Sew Easy French Curve use our products,” says
embroidery machines. “As a business we with Grading Rule Richard. The Singer
you share
“We love it whenoje
focus a lot of our attention on listening and Groves is the UK’s largest supplier of sewing, brand has been
ideas and pr cts.”
responding to the crafting community, so to knitting, quilting and needlecraft products, synonymous with
be nominated twice in a set of awards voted and Sew Easy is among their many brands. sewing since 1851, but
for by crafters is fantastic,” says Stuart Stamp “We’re very honoured that the Sew Easy “we’re just as interested in the next
from Brother Sewing. “We’ve had an exciting French Curve with Grading Rule has been hundred years. A lot of work goes into
2016, with the extension of our Innov-is nominated,” says Kerry Hearn from Sew developing innovative, user-friendly
sewing machine range and continued Easy. “This is an invaluable aid for designing, machines with the needs and wants of
development of the ScanNCut, so this is drafting and grading patterns and adding modern sewing enthusiasts in mind. This
a great way to kick off 2017.” seam allowances. It eliminates guesswork nomination is great recognition of that.”
Stuart comments that the company’s and helps you alter patterns for personal fit, Richard and his team regard their
ongoing aim is to remain a pillar of expertise including curves for the neckline, armhole, customers as a community. “We love it
and guaranteed sleeve cap, hipline, waistline and hemline.” when you share ideas and projects on
quality “for those More than a million Sew Easy rulers are social media or with chat us at shows. Our
who love to craft, used throughout the world. “We are users are the living embodiment of the
whether it’s in the delighted that this product has been Singer brand, so your support is much
living room at recognised.” To all the people who voted, appreciated.” Visit www.singerco.co.uk
home or within Kerry says: “A very big thank you! It is really
their own small appreciated when people take the time to
business.” He vote, precious time
adds: “This away from their
nomination passion of sewing.”
reassures us Find out more at
that we are www.seweasy.com or
achieving just visit their YouTube
that and is a real channel at www.
youtube.com/SewEasy
“We focus a lot of our attention
on listening and responding to International
the crafting community.”

72 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
The Fold Line gals are thrilled
with their award win: “It really
A GOOD READ
meant the world to us.”

SECOND PLACE
1st Karen Ball of Did You Make That
Karen runs one of the UK’s leading sewing
blogs, www.didyoumakethat.com. “It was
a huge surprise and a truly joyful moment
when I found out I’d been nominated,”
Karen says. “Behind every blog or business
is a real person and this real person had to
give her dog Ella an extra big cuddle to
celebrate. Thank you so much!”

THIRD PLACE
BLOG OF THE YEAR Portia Lawrie of Makery
Portia Lawrie shares projects and tutorials
FIRST PLACE Kate. “As at www.makery.uk and masterminds The
The Fold Line individuals we are Refashioners series. “I felt utterly humbled
The Fold Line is an online sewing community happy to be to be nominated,” she exclaims. “It’s so
with a sewing pattern database, dressmaking creating gratifying to know something you pour
resources, forum and blog, all rolled into one! interesting time, effort and love into is appreciated by
Run by Kate Underdown and Rachel Walker, content for “We lov a community that
it’s a hub where dressmakers can make everyone, online ande chatting to you all you, in turn, are
sharing kn
owledge.”
friends, browse patterns and get inspired for because as constantly inspired
their next project. “After we managed to peel freelancers it’s by. Don’t tell anyone,
our jaws off the ground we were totally often hard to know if you’re doing a good but I may have welled
thrilled to discover we’d been nominated!” job!” Kate and Rachel extend a massive thanks up a little.”
says Kate. “We’ve only been going for just over to everyone who voted for them.
a year and are a pretty new blog, so it really “We are a community site, so without all you
meant the world to us.” makers out there we wouldn’t exist. We love
Winning the award means a lot to the chatting to you all online and sharing
talented pair. “As a company it shows that knowledge with each other. It’s such
people are enjoying reading all the sewing a fantastic community and we are chuffed to
news, pattern releases and dressmaking bits to be part of it.” Two of our fave sewing
bloggers Karen (left) and
inspiration we’re posting each month,” says Join in at www.thefoldline.com Portia were awarded
second and third place.

RETAILER OF THE YEAR


FIRST PLACE SECOND PLACE
Sew Over It The Village Haberdashery
Lisa Comfort opened Sew Over It in 2011 with The Village Haberdashery is a treasure-trove of crafting
a view to getting as many people sewing as she goodies, with a shop in London as well as an online store.
could. “Since we started, our range of sewing and Have a browse at www.villagehaberdashery.com
dressmaking classes has grown to over 25 classes.
We also launched our own pattern line and offer THIRD PLACE
online classes.” Lisa is thrilled there is Sew Crafty
now a sewing category in the British Online haberdashery Sew Crafty
Craft Awards. “To be recognised for has been curating fabrics and all the
“Of course I’d like to
the work I love doing makes me so say a huge thank trimmings since Sammy Claridge
happy, and it means so much to the you! I’m so happy and her family bought the business
team too,” she says. “Whether they’re that people enjoy in 2002. They now have a line of
running the online shop, creating the what we do.” their own products. “It felt special
patterns, teaching classes, serving to have our hard work recognised.
Sew Over It Photos: Tiffany Mumford

customers and more, the team at Sew To be up against some of “To be up


Over It work so hard. We’re incredibly our fave retailers is a big fave retailersagainst some of our
grateful to be acknowledged in this
way.” She adds: “Of course I’d like to say
1st deal for us. We can carry
on knowing we are
is a big deal
for us.”

a huge thank you! I’m so happy that heading in the right


people enjoy what we do.” direction.” Visit www.
See more at www.sewoverit.com sewcraftyonline.co.uk

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com
Find a creative craft & cake show near you!

SPRING SHOWS 2017

STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS EXCEL , LONDON // 20 - 22 APRIL


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DRESS UP SEASONAL
MAKES FOR
KIDS

Sew Laura Strutt’s sweet and


simple summer dress with an
easy-wear slip-on style and
decorative button detail.

Photos: Emma Mitchell @ CICO Books


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DRESS UP

01 02 03

04 05 06

YOU WILL NEED Designer Laura says: “This slip-on dress with turn both long edges under by 5mm ( in) to
Q Plain cotton fabric: 70x112cm simple tie straps is the perfect addition to the WS and press.
(28x44in), for the bodice a little girl’s summer wardrobe. Big, bright, Step two Place the placket on the centre front
Q Striped cotton fabric: 42x150cm candy-striped buttons provide an eye-catching of the RS of the bodice outer front piece.
(17x60in), for the skirt finishing touch, but are purely for decoration Step three Cut the ric rac braid in half. Tuck one
Q Plain cotton fabric: 8.5x15cm – so there are no fiddly buttonholes to sew!” piece under each turned under side of the
(3 ⁄ x6in), for the button placket placket so that only one wavy edge of the braid
Q Jumbo ric rac: 25cm (10in) CUTTING OUT is showing and pin into place.
Q 3 buttons: 2.5xcm (1in) diameter Step one With wrong sides (WS) together, fold Step four Topstitch down each side of the
Q Basic sewing kit the selvedges of the bodice fabric in to meet in placket to hold the folded-under edge and ric
the centre. Line up the marked fold on the rac in place.
SIZES bodice pattern to one fold of the fabric and pin Step five Sew three buttons down the centre
The patterns are for ages 2-3, 3-4 and into place. front, spacing them evenly apart. 01
4-5 years. Step two Cut around the pattern piece then
unpin it, flip it over and pin to the opposite fold. LINING THE BODICE FRONT AND BACK
NOTES Repeat this to cut two more bodice pieces on Step one Pin one bodice lining right sides (RS)
Q For fabric with large prints, you may the fold below these. You will then have four together with the bodice outer front, matching
need to increase the fabric quantities pieces – bodice outer front, bodice outer back the raw edges.
to accommodate the motifs and and two for the bodice lining. Step two Stitch together around the upper
allow for pattern matching. Step three From the skirt fabric, cut a piece section, starting at the top of the armhole on
Q Use a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance measuring the following: one side and ending at the top of the armhole
unless otherwise stated. 2-3 years, 38x129cm (15x51in). on the other side.
3-4 years, 40x132cm (16x52in). Step three Repeat to stitch the other lining
4-5 years, 43x134cm (17x53in). piece to the bodice outer back.
Step four Neaten the raw edges of each cut Step four Snip off the points at the ends of the
piece with a machine zigzag or by overlocking, ties, clip notches in the curves and trim the
then press. seam allowances. 02
Step five Turn the bodice pieces RS out, using
MAKING THE FRONT BODICE a point turner or knitting needle to carefully
Step one Take the button placket piece and push out the points of the ties. Press to neaten.

76 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
DRESS UP

TIP:e and skirt


bodic
Make the e co t t on print
sa m
from the classic design.
re
for a mo
JOINING THE BODICES
Step one Open out the lined front bodice up to
the stitching so that both the lining and the
outer bodice are RS up on your work surface.
Step two Open out the outer bodice back and
lining in the same way. Lay it RS down on top of
the front bodice then pin together so the outer
front and outer back are RS facing and the two
linings are RS facing. Line up the short edges
and the underarm seams. 03
Step three Stitch together along the sides of
first the outer bodice then the lining. Repeat
this on the other side of the bodice.
Step four Turn the bodice RS out.

MAKING THE SKIRT


Step one Fold the skirt piece in half widthways
with RS facing then stitch together down the
short sides to form the centre back seam. Press
the seam open.
Step two Turn under the bottom long edge of
the skirt fabric by 1cm ( ⁄ in) and press. Turn it
under again by 1cm ( ⁄ in), press then pin.
Step three Stitch the hem into place 5mm ( in)
from the edge.
Step four Gather the other long raw edge by
setting your machine to its longest stitch
length. Starting and finishing at the centre back
seam, work two rows of stitching all along the
bodice and skirt together.
Step three Stitch together around the waistline
of the skirt to attach it to the outer bodice. The
SIZE CHART
length, the first 3mm ( ⁄ in) from the raw edge gathering stitches will be concealed within the SIZE 2-3 3-4 4-5
and the second 5mm ( in) away from the first. seam allowance. 05 years years years
These gathering stitches will be hidden in the Step four Press the seam allowances up towards
cm 98 104 110
seam allowance later. Leave the thread ends the bodice and turn the dress RS out. HEIGHT
long and loose for gathering. in 38 41 43
Step five Carefully draw up the threads at either FINISHING OFF
end to gather the fabric until the upper edge of Step one Turn the lower raw edge of the lining
cm 52 56 58
CHEST
the skirt measures the same as the front and back under by 5mm ( in) to the WS in 20 22 23
circumference of the bodice. and press into place.
Step six Knot the gathering threads to secure Step two Pin the turned under lining edge on cm 50 52 54
WAIST
then even out the gathers along the length. 04 top of the gathered skirt edge to enclose all the in 19 20 21
raw edges.
ATTACHING THE SKIRT TO THE BODICE Step three Slip stitch the folded under edge
Step one Pull the bodice lining out slightly to into place using small stitches just through the This girl’s dress is one of 25
keep it out of the way so that it doesn’t get seam making sure your stitches can’t be seen home and dressmaking
caught in the waist seam. from the right side of the dress. 06 projects featured in Sewing
Step two With RS together, slide the skirt over Step four Snip away all the remaining thread for Babies and Children by
the outer bodice, making sure that the centre ends and press to neaten. Laura Strutt, published by
back seam of the skirt is positioned at the Step five Tie the straps in neat knots over the CICO Books. £12.99 from
centre of the outer bodice back and pin the shoulders to fit. www.makeetc.com

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birds of a feather
Meet Chirpy and Cheep, your child’s
new favourite feathered friends by Jo
Carter. This pair won’t stay perched
on the playroom shelf for long!

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soft toy

01 02 03

07 08 09

YOU WILL NEED FINISHED SIZE Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil
Q Fabric A (for front of head): Approx: 18cm (7in) tall. draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong
20x15cm (8x6in) side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the
Q Fabric B (for main body and tail): NOTES following pieces:
30x30cm (12x12in) Q If you would like to use different From Fabric A:
Q Fabric C (for wings and back fabric to make the wings and the Top head, cut 2.
head): 26x32cm (10x13in) back head as we have done for Lower front head, cut 2.
Q Fabric D (for beak and feet): one budgie then you will need: From Fabric B:
12x12cm (5x5in) Fabric C (wings) 18x32cm (7x13in) Tummy, cut 2.
Q Wadding: 25x25cm (10x10in) and Fabric E (back head) 20x10cm Back body, cut 2.
Q Polyester toy filling (8x4in). Base, cut 1.
Q Stranded cotton: black Q You will find the templates Tail, cut 2.
Q Basic sewing kit needed on the pull-out pattern From Fabric C:
sheet included with this issue. Wing, cut 4.
FABRICS USED Q Use a 5mm ( in) seam allowance Back head (if not using Fabric E), cut 2.
Fabric A: Mini Pearl Bracelets in unless otherwise stated. From Fabric D:
White on White, Lizzie House, Beak, cut 2.
Andover; Dalmation in Citrus, Foot, cut 2.
Blueberry Park for Robert Kaufman. CUTTING OUT From Fabric E (optional):
Fabric B: Kona Cotton Solid in Step one Trace and cut out all the template Back head, cut 2.
Jamaica, Robert Kaufman; Kona pieces. The templates include seam
Cotton Solid in Parrot, Robert allowances where necessary and the arrows CREATING THE BEAK
Kaufman. indicate the print direction for marking and Step one Place the two lower front head
Fabric C: Dentals in Black, Carkai, cutting out. The notches are used to match pieces right sides (RS) facing and sew together
Carolyn Friedlander for Robert pieces when stitching together, so mark these along the front. 01
Kaufman. too. When the pattern specifies to cut two or Step two Place the two beak pieces RS
Fabric D: Kona Cotton Solid in more of a template, after marking out half of together and sew around the sides.
Honey, Robert Kaufman. the pieces required, the template needs to be Step three Clip the tip and make V-shaped
Fabric E: Raindrops in Leaf, Modern turned over to mark out the remaining half so notches in the seam allowance around the
Batik Collection, Hoffman Fabrics. that the pieces are cut as mirror images. curves, without cutting your stitches. 02

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soft toy

04 05 06

10 11 12

Step four Turn the beak RS out. Step two Sew all three layers together around then very lightly stuffed.
Step five Lightly stuff the beak and then tack the side of the wing, leaving the straight top
the top edge closed to hold the filling in place. edge open, and then trim away the excess MAKING THE TAIL
Step six Position the beak against the RS of the wadding round the sides. Step one Place the tail pieces RS together then
lower front head in the centre at the top and Step three Clip V-shaped notches in the seam on top of some wadding in the same way as
tack it in place. 03 allowance around the external curves and clip for the wings and sew around the sides and
the internal curve. 07 bottom, leaving the top open.
MAKING THE HEAD Step four Turn the wing RS out and then Step two Trim the excess wadding and clip the
Step one Sew the bottom of the top head to repeat this to make the other wing. If preferred seam allowance at the corners. 08
the top of its corresponding back head piece or if wadding isn’t available, the wings can be Step three Turn the tail RS out.
with RS together. made in the same way minus the wadding and
Step two Repeat this to make the other side of
the head. 04 Budgies are known
Step three Place the top back head sections RS for their colourful
facing and sew together along the top to the feathers, so mix and
match bright fabrics
point that the top head joins the back head. 05 from your stash.
Step four With RS together and starting in the
centre at the top of the beak, sew one side of
the lower front face section to the
corresponding side of the top back section of
the head. 06
Step five Return to the top centre point and
sew the remaining side together. Sewing the
seam in two parts in this way is easier and also
helps to ensure that the beak is fitted straight.

MAKING THE WINGS


Step one Place two mirror-image wing pieces
RS together then place them on top of a piece
of wadding that is larger overall than the wing.

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soft toy

13 14 15

16 17 18

MAKING THE FEET back body piece in between the seam and the the thread, take the needle back into the head
Step one Fold one foot piece in half with RS marker (making sure that the wing is facing in and then out again anywhere and snip away
together then sew along the open side and the correct direction). the excess. 16
across the bottom. Step six Repeat this for the other side. 12 Step four Embroider two small straight stitches
Step two Clip the seam allowance away at the on the beak as nostrils.
corner and clip the internal corner. ATTACHING THE HEAD AND TAIL
Step three Turn the foot RS out, stuff and then Step one Sew the head to the top of the body FINISHING OFF
tack the top end closed to hold the filling in with RS together, taking care to match up the Step one To make a ‘toe stitch’ in the middle of
place before you attach it to the body. seams neatly. 13 the foot bring the needle up through the centre
Step four Repeat this to make the other foot in Step two With RS together, sew the back head bottom of the foot and out in the centre top.
the same way. 09 section together, just beyond the ‘neck’ seam. Step two Make a few stitches through the foot
Step three Close the bottom of the back body to secure the thread and then bring the thread
ASSEMBLING THE BODY so that an opening of 8cm (3in) is left in the over the front and back through the bottom.
As the wings, feet and tail are sewn directly into centre back of the body. 14 Step three Pull on the thread to tighten it,
seams it is advisable to sew over the joins to Step four With RS together, fit the tail inside the repeat then secure the thread with a few
make sure they are well secured and reduce the body so that the top end of the tail is in the stitches and snip away the excess.
likelihood of them being pulled out. opening at the bottom back of the budgie. Sew Step four Repeat to make a ‘toe stitch’ in the
Step one Place the tummy pieces RS facing and across the bottom back to close it and fix the middle of the other foot. 17
sew together along the front. 10 tail in place. 15 Step five Adjust any filling that has been
Step two With the feet against the RS of the disturbed then sew the back of the body closed
base piece and the folded side of the foot ADDING THE FEATURES using ladder stitch or similar. 18
facing inward, tack the feet in place between Step one Turn the budgie RS out and stuff.
the markers. Step two With black stranded cotton,
Step three With RS together, sew the front of embroider eyes onto the face just above the Jo worked for 10 years
the base piece around the bottom of the beak (a French or colonial knot eye works well). as a soft toy designer
tummy, sandwiching the feet in place. 11 Step three When the eyes are completed before and rediscovered her
Step four Sew a back body piece RS together to removing the thread, take the needle back love of toy-making
its corresponding side of the joined tummy and through the head from one eye to the other while taking time out
base section. and pull lightly to draw the eyes inward slightly with her sons. www.
Step five Tack the top of a wing to the RS of this and give the face a little more character. Secure twoowls.typepad.co.uk

82 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
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bedtime reading
Keep your child’s favourite books
and soft toys within easy reach at
bedtime with this stash-busting
bedside tidy by R&B Designs.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 83
bedside storage
01 02 03

04 05 06

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT the joined pocket strip RS up on top, matching
Q Print fabric A: 21x74cm Step one Cut out the following pieces: the bottom and side edges. The pocket strip is
(8 x29 ⁄ in) Print fabric A: two pieces 21x37cm (8 x14 ⁄ in) longer than the flap to allow for the pleats.
Q Print fabric B: 21x37cm (8 x14 ⁄ in) each, for pockets 1 and 3. Step four Pin together down both short sides
Q Print fabric C: 65x65cm Print fabric B: 21x37cm (8 x14 ⁄ in), for pocket 2. then stitch together just 5mm ( in) in from the
(25 ⁄ x25 ⁄ in) Print fabric C: 65x65cm (25 ⁄ x25 ⁄ in), flap. raw edges.
Q Calico: 90x110 (35 x43in) Step two Cut out the following pieces from the
Q Water erasable pen calico: 21x107cm (8 x42in), pocket lining. MAKING THE PLEATED POCKETS
Q Basic sewing kit 65x65cm (25 ⁄ x25 ⁄ in), flap lining. Step one Pin the pocket seams onto the channel
markings on the flap. 02
NOTE ASSEMBLING THE POCKETS Step two Sew the pockets into place on top of
Use a 1cm ( ⁄ in) seam allowance. Step one Place pocket 1 and pocket 2 right sides and through the pocket seams.
(RS) facing and stitch together down the left Step three Press the pocket fabric down forming
short side of pocket 2. Press the seam open. pleats at the sides. Arrange the pleats so they are
MEASURING DIAGRAM Step two Place pocket 3 RS facing with pocket 2 even on both sides of the pockets.
and stitch together down the right short side of Step four Press then pin in place and sew onto
pocket 2. Press the seam open. the flap along the bottom long edge. 03
Step three Place the pocket lining RS together
with the joined pockets and stitch together LINING THE FLAP
along the top long edge. Press the seam open. 01 Step one Place the flap lining RS together with
Step four Fold the pocket lining over to the back the joined pockets and flap and sew together all
so it is wrong sides (WS) together with the joined the way around but leaving a 15cm (6in)
pockets. Topstitch close to the top folded edge. turning gap in the centre of the top long side.
Step two Clip the corners to reduce bulk at
JOINING THE POCKET STRIP TO THE FLAP these points. 04
Step one Mark the position of the pocket Step three Turn RS out through the gap. 05
20CM
20CM

channels on the RS of the flap fabric. Step four Fold the edges of the turning gap to
Step two Follow the diagram to measure and the inside then slip stitch closed. 06
22CM 21CM 22CM
mark the two pocket channels on the fabric. Step five Tuck the flap under your mattress so
Step three Keeping the marked flap RS up, place the pockets hang down the side of the bed.

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HOW TO: Sew with knit fabrics Crewel embroidery Beginner patchwork Covered piping

HOW TO: Sew with knit fabrics Crewel embroidery Beginner patchwork Covered piping

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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

workshop
CREWEL EMBROIDERY
Every issue, our sewists present
classic projects and techniques.
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

workshop
CREWEL EMBROIDERY LEARN THE TECHNIQUE
Crewel embroidery has been around for centuries, 01 02
going back to Medieval times, with the Bayeux
Tapestry being the most famous example.
Traditional crewel embroidery designs include
flowers, leaves, birds and animals. It’s ideal for
stitching onto clothing and a lovely way to
individualise something you already own, like 1
a jacket, cardigan or a pair of jeans. 3 2
2
HOW TO TRANSFER A DESIGN
The way you transfer your design depends on the
weight, colour and type of fabric you’re using. The
easiest way is to simply trace the design by sticking 1
it onto a window with the fabric on top so that the
light shines through. Trace over the design using
a pencil or water erasable pen. For dark fabrics, use 03 04
white chalk or transfer pencil. Dressmakers carbon
paper can also be used to transfer designs. For
trickier fabrics, such as knitted garments, use the
tissue paper method explained on the next page.

WHAT WOOL TO USE


1
Crewel wool is 2 ply, which can’t be separated, so 2 4 3 2 1
you stitch using the whole strand. There are
a variety of yarns available that are suitable for
crewel work but the most popular and widely 3
available is Appletons crewel wool, which is
available in over 420 shades in 25m skeins or 180m
hanks. Appletons have been around for almost 200
years and so have a long reputation for producing
crewel and tapestry wools. Visit www.appletons tension in an embroidery hoop or frame so that the Continue stitching from right to left in this way,
woollimited.co.uk to find a stockist. stitching doesn’t pucker it. Anchor your thread making sure all the chains are the same size. 01
securely at the beginning and end of your stitching
WHAT FABRIC TO USE with a couple of small backstitches in an area that SATIN STITCH
The fabric you stitch on should be firmly woven but will be covered by subsequent stitching. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the shape
with enough give so the needle and wool will go As long as you’re using crewel wool then you can then take it back down at 2 on the other side.
through it fairly easily without breaking. Linen is the pretty much use any embroidery stitch you would Continue stitching this way so all the stitches lie
traditional material used as it has a looser weave like to work with. Look at the size of your chosen close together without the fabric showing. 02
than cotton fabrics. If you want to use more tightly design and the different shaped elements it has
woven fabrics, work with shorter lengths to reduce and then choose a stitch type to suit. LAZY DAISY STITCH
the wear on the wool and prevent it breaking. There are a few stitches which are more Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2, without
traditionally used for crewel embroidery and these pulling the needle all the way through the fabric.
WHAT NEEDLE TO USE are the ones we have used on our cardigan. Bring the needle up again at 3, with the thread
Your needle should be just a little wider than your under the needle, and pull gently to form a loop.
yarn, so when stitching with crewel wool the best CHAIN STITCH Secure this loop by pushing the needle back in
needles to use are crewel needles or chenille Bring your needle out just above the marked line at again just on the other side of the loop. 03
needles. A crewel needle has a thinner shaft than 1. Push the needle back in again at 2 just below the
a chenille needle but both have sharp points to line. Make it as close to where it emerged as RUNNING STITCH
pierce the fabric. possible without going into the same hole. Bring Bring the needle out at 1, in at 2 then out at 3 and in
the needle up again at 3, making sure that the at 4 and so on along the marked line. Make the
HOW TO STITCH thread is lying under the needle. Pull the thread length of the stitches the same length as the gaps
It’s important to keep your fabric stretched under through the fabric slowly to form a neat loop. between them for an even finish. 04

88 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

embroider a cardigan workshop


CREWEL EMBROIDERY
01 02 03

04 05 06

YOU WILL NEED ones or space them apart. STABILISING THE GARMENT
Q Plain cardigan Step three Decide which colours you would like to Step one Using an embroidery hoop will stretch the
Q Crewel wool – in a mixture of colours go where then roughly colour them in with felt tips. knitting out of shape, so the best thing is to press
Q Tissue paper Take a quick photo of the flowers for reference. 01 iron-on knit interfacing onto the inside of the
cardigan slightly larger than the area to be stitched.
NOTE TRANSFERRING THE FLOWERS Step two Press this carefully into place with a cloth
Q Use the instructions on the previous The tissue paper transfer method is ideal for on top to protect it, then you’re ready to stitch. 05
page for working the embroidery. transferring onto knitted garments.
Q The templates are on the pull-out Step one Trace over one pinned on flower onto STITCHING THE FLOWERS
pattern sheet provided. a light-coloured tissue paper, using a felt tipped Step one Follow the running stitch outlines to stitch
Q We used Appletons crewel wool in pen. Cut out the flower about 1cm ( ⁄ in) outside the each flower. Work your stitches just over them so
Orange Red, Kingfisher and Fuchsia. traced outline. they are hidden or remove them as you go.
Step two Remove the pinned on flower then tack Step two You can use any embroidery stitch you
the traced tissue in its place. If you have a few like to work your flowers and it’s good to use
flowers overlapping then trace over all of them so a mixture to create different effects. We used chain
PLANNING THE DESIGN they overlap in the same way. 02 stitch, running stitch, lazy daisy stitch and satin
Step one We have used three different sizes of Step three Choose a sewing thread that will show stitch for ours. 06
flowers. Trace around all of the flower templates up on your cardigan then, using small running Step three Use one strand of crewel wool as the
and cut around them. stitches, work along all the traced lines. 03 flowers are all quite small.
Step two Pin your cut out traced flowers to your Step four Undo the tacking stitches then gently Step four Stitch each flower one at a time, working
cardigan in the placement you prefer. You can remove the tissue paper. Use tweezers to remove the larger flowers first then any overlapping flowers
overlap some of the smaller ones over the larger any small pieces that remain. 04 on top afterwards to create the layered effect.

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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

The guide
You’ll find essential information,
useful stitches and key sewing
Pi K n Sh A
These cut a
zigzag edge on
fabric to neaten.

techniques on these pages.

Ma K n p
Transfer markings to
your fabric, then wash
them out when finished.

T e Me S r P s
A flexible fabric Stainless steel
tape measure will pins with sharp
take accurate points are best.
measurements.
Sh A
Keep a pair of
sharp shears just
for cutting out
your fabric.
Fa R Cl P
Use these instead
of pins when sewing
thicker fabrics.

Ma K n Pe C
Choose a colour
that shows up on
your fabric.

Sm L Sc S o
Use for snipping
Ta L R’ Ch L s threads and
Chalk temporarily cutting notches.
marks fabric and
can be easily
brushed away. Th M l
Wear to protect
your fingers when
handstitching.

S m Ri P
This sharp blade
cuts through and
unpicks stitches.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 91
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

The guide
HOW TO MEASURE B k Wa S Le G
From the top of your
spine at the base of
Stand against a wall,
barefoot, then measure
from the top of your
He G T:

YOURSELF ACCURATELY
ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF your garment as this can alter the
your neck to your
natural waist
head to the floor

H h B t/Ch S :
BEFORE you choose a pattern size measurements slightly. Use a fabric Across the back,
to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly tape measure as it’ll curve around B t under your arms and
from pattern to pattern, so it’s your body well for accuracy. You Around the above the bust
always best to measure yourself can measure on your own if you fullest part
accurately and then refer to the stand in front of a mirror, but, for of your bust
pattern’s size chart to find your best results, ask a friend to help so
size. The chart will usually be they can check the tape measure is
printed on the pattern envelope or sitting in the right places. Make
on the instructions inside. sure the tape measure sits snugly Wa S :
Measure yourself in your around you but is not pulled tight. Your natural
underwear and preferably in the Take the measurements shown in waistline, around
bra you’ll be wearing underneath the diagram and note them down. the slimmest part
of your waist

HOW TO USE A PATTERN


Preparing your fabric and cutting size you’re cutting and the style of Hs
out your sewing pattern accurately garment. Many patterns have more Around the fullest and
is just as important as the actual than one option (or view) and each widest part of your
sewing. Wash your fabric before one can have a different layout. thighs and bottom
you begin as fabric can shrink and
run. Once dry, press it well. CUTTING OUT

PREPARING THE PATTERN


Patterns often come with several
options of different finishes so you
may have more pieces than you
Lay your fabric flat and smooth it
out. Fold or place the fabric as
shown on the cutting layout. Lay
the pattern pieces in the order and
right side or wrong side up as
PATTERN MARKINGS
Pleats: These lines are matched Arrows: Grainline arrows are used
need. The instruction sheet will tell shown. Check to make sure that up to create pleats on the cut to show which direction to pin the
you which pieces to use. Roughly the grainlines on the pattern are out fabric pieces. pattern on the fabric. The grainline
cut out all of the pieces outside the parallel with the selvedges by runs parallel to the fabric edge.
lines then press the pieces using measuring. Pin your pattern pieces
a dry iron on a low heat to remove carefully in place and cut around
the folds and creases. them through the fabric using
a pair of dressmaker’s shears.
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN
Choose your size using your TRANSFERRING MARKINGS Notches: Shown as
measurements and the size chart. The markings on the pattern triangles or small
Cut along the corresponding lines pieces need to be transferred to lines, these are
Darts: These
on your pattern. When you reach the fabric. They’re really important marked on the
lines are for
any fiddly curves, take care to cut for matching up fabric pieces later edges and are
matching up to
along the correct size lines. and for positioning elements such mainly used for
create darts
as darts and pockets. You can mark matching up
within the
CUTTING LAYOUTS these with chalk, fabric markers, pattern pieces.
fabric pieces.
Choose the correct one for the snips on the fabric, or with small
width of fabric you’re using, the tacking stitches.

92 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
FINISHING SEAMS
CHOOSING AND BUYING FABRICS
IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for can be bought in a variety of thicknesses and
ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED
stitching your seam, it’s best to
press it open on the wrong side
so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s
your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric qualities depending on their use but are ideal for
better to press it to one side to
types that will work best with the style of garment. sportswear and casual clothing.
reduce bulk but the pattern
Use this to guide you as some patterns need more Interfacing gives an extra layer of support to your
instructions will tell you this.
drape, body or structure than others. fabric – for example, to stiffen facings and collars.
Usually the seam allowances
Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as Choose an interfacing that’s slightly lighter than your
are left as they are as they help
cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such main fabric, and if you’re using a fusible (iron-on)
to strengthen the seam, but
as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and option then always test it on a scrap of the fabric first
sometimes they cause too
viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or as it can melt if the iron is too hot.
much bulk so they are trimmed
thicknesses, which suit different garments. Interfacing is available in different weights and as
to half their original width.
Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear an iron-on (fusible) or sew-in version. With fusible
If your fabric has a tendency
and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, interfacing, press the shiny side to the wrong side of
to fray you should neaten the
chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, your fabric. Tack sew-in interfacing to the wrong side
raw edges after you have
organdie, organza and voile. of the fabric pieces around the edges.
worked the seam. There are
Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, If you’re buying fabric off a roll (or bolt) then you’ll
several ways of doing this. To
shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, usually buy it by the metre. This is only the length of
machine-finish them, set your
cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. the fabric you’re buying – the width depends on the
sewing machine to the zigzag
Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or width of the roll. Fabrics are sold in standard widths,
stitch then stitch close to the
projects needing more strength, like coats, jackets, which vary according to their purpose – for example,
raw edge all the way along. The
winter wear and bags. Canvas, corduroy, denim, dressmaking or quilting fabric generally comes in
zigzag must be small enough to
tweeds, velvet and wool are all in this category. standard widths of 112cm (44in) or 150cm (60in).
stop the fabric from fraying but
Some patterns require fabrics that are quite fluid Curtain or soft furnishing fabric is normally 137cm
large enough to enclose the
and have a good drape to make them hang properly, (54in) wide and is really useful for bags and aprons as
bulk of the fabric. Practise a few
such as a circle skirt or blouse. Synthetic or synthetic it’s thicker and stronger than dressmaking fabrics.
lengths and widths before you
mix fabrics such as rayon, challis, chiffon or The fabric requirements on the pattern instructions
begin. Alternatively, you can
lightweight jersey have a better drape to them. will tell you what length of fabric to buy, usually with
trim the raw fabric edges with
Stretch and knit fabrics such as jersey and lycra are two width choices. Some patterns, such as large
a pair of pinking shears. If you
virtually crease free and comfortable to wear. They circle skirts, can only be cut from the wider fabrics.
have an overlocker then you
can stitch, cut and finish the
seams all in one process.

MACHINE NEEDLES
There are many different needle types and they vary
by the shape of the point, eye and shaft thickness.
Choose the correct one for smooth stitching.
NEEDLE SIZE GUIDE
UK US
FABRIC
SIZE SIZE
Un V R l Sh R Qu L i
A great multi-purpose needle With a sharp point, these are for This will pierce multiple layers 60 8 Silks
which can be used for woven sewing very fine and delicate whilst keeping straight stitches so Lightweight
fabrics and has a slightly rounded fabrics and neat buttonholes. it is ideal for patchwork and 70 10
fabrics
point for stitching knit fabrics, too. machine quilting. Medium
Le T e 75 11
weight fabrics
B l Po N This needle’s wedge-shaped To S I h 80 12
Medium
This needle has a more rounded cutting point is used to work This has an extra-sharp point and weight fabrics
point than the universal needle so strong seams on non-woven eye, so thicker topstitching thread Medium
90 14
you won’t get snags, ladders or fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. can be used. It’s perfect for straight weight fabrics
holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. stitching with thicker threads on Heavy weight
100 16
St E c any type of fabric. fabrics
Je N Designed for sewing two-way 110 18
Upholstery
fabrics/denim
A strong needle, ideal for stitching stretch knits such as lycra and silk T n
several layers of fabric or tightly jersey. It prevents skipped stitches Used for parallel rows of stitching 120 20 Heavy canvas
woven fabrics like denims. on fine knit fabrics. such as pintucks and hems.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 93


FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

The guide
GLOSSARY
Dr P
For a full glossary of sewing terms
visit www.simplysewingmag.com

in sewing such as zips, fasteners,


STITCH GUIDE
Use these basic hand stitches to complete your
A term used to describe the way lace and buttons. home and dressmaking projects.
a fabric hangs under its own
weight. Different fabrics have Ri H S e (r ) / Wr N S e (w )
different drape qualities. The right side of the fabric, also La D St T
called the ‘public’ side, has the Used to join together and close
E e design on it. The wrong side is the two turned-under edges invisibly, 2 3 5
The addition of extra fabric in other side – this is usually a little such as on a dress lining or soft
a pattern to allow the finished duller or faded on plain fabrics. toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on 1
4
garment to fit the body well. one side of the seam, then in at 2
S m Al O A e on the opposite side and out at 3,
Ed E Ti C The fabric between the raw or cut so the stitch is 3mm ( ⁄ in) long.
A row of stitching on the very edge of the fabric and the seam is Push the needle back in the
edge of a garment, usually called the seam allowance. Your opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges.
2-3mm ( ⁄ - ⁄ in) from the folded pattern will tell you the required
or seamed edge. Used to hold seam allowance measurement.
the fabric edge neatly in place. This is usually 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) for S p St T
dressmaking, but can vary. This stitch is used most often for
Fa I hems where you need to stitch 3 2
This pattern piece is cut Se V d a turned-under edge to a flat 1
separately to stabilise and create The finished woven edge of fabric, piece of fabric using small, almost
a neat finish on the edge of often with the fabric name printed invisible stitches. Bring the needle
a garment, such as the neckline. on it. The grain runs parallel to this up at 1 on the turned-under hem
and the bias diagonally. Called then back in at 2 and out at 3.
f Qu R e selvage in the US. Make this horizontal stitch as
A term used to describe a cut small as possible so it can’t be seen from the front. Repeat this by
piece of fabric often used for St Y Ti C i making a vertical stitch back into the turned-under edge then
patchwork projects, usually A line of regular machine stitching continue in this way to complete the hem.
measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). usually worked 3mm ( ⁄ in) inside
the seam line, often used to
Fi I H g/Ne T N g r Ed E stabilise curved edges to stop W p St T
This is done to stop the fabric them stretching out of shape. Whipstitch is used to join the
edges, particularly of a seam, edges of two fabrics together,
from fraying. It can be done by T k/Ta K n such as felt and other fabrics that
machine zigzag stitch, using an A line of temporary stitching used don’t fray. With the right sides
overlocker or trimming the raw to hold fabric pieces together together, bring your needle out at 2 1
edge with pinking shears. before machine sewing, worked in 1 on the front of the fabric, then
the same way as running stitch. over to the back of the other, and
Gr I /Gr I L e Known as basting in the U.S. through and out at 2. Continue to
The lengthwise fabric grain, work small stitches close together over the top of the two fabric edges.
running parallel to the selvedge. To S It H n
A line of stitching worked 5mm
n ( in) from the folded or seam Ru N n St T
Fabrics like velvet, corduroy and edge. Used to hold the seam in This can be used to gather fabric
fur have hairs or loops which all place and as a decorative finish. and as a decorative stitch worked
lie in one direction and are around the edge of a finished
4 3 2 1
called the nap, or pile. When Un E St T H g project. Bring the needle out at 1,
cutting out pattern pieces make A line of stitching worked through in at 2, then out at 3 and in at 4,
sure the grainline arrow always the facing and seam allowance and so on. Make the length of the
runs in the direction of the nap. 3mm ( ⁄ in) from the seam to stop stitches the same length as the
the facing rolling to the outside of gaps between them for an even
No I n the garment. Understitching will finish. You can work several running stitches on your needle at once.
Small tools or accessories used not be visible on the outside.

94 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
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The Lily Dress


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* CONTENTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PAPER AND FABRIC GIFTS NOT AVAILABLE WITH DIGITAL EDITIONS.
Photos: Fandi (www.fandi.es); Fabric from Julián López
my favourite thing

simple elegance
Pattern designer Pauline Alice shares her handmade
beaded bridal gown inspired by a ready-to-wear design.
“I GOT MARRIED LAST OCTOBER AND I KNEW champagne-colour silk crepe for the lining.
I wanted to make my wedding dress from the The bodice is made of four pieces: two
start. I’ve sewn almost all of my clothes so fronts and two backs. There are some folds at
I couldn’t imagine not sewing the dress I’ll the front gathered into a dart and the back is
remember forever. I was afraid that it would quite low. I added some rows of pearls to the
be difficult and stressful to make, but actually back neckline and made a removable cape.
it all went perfectly well. The skirt has folds in the front and a small
I was inspired by a dress I tried on in a shop. train at the back (with buttons so it can be
The fabric was beaded and the cut was pretty lifted later for the dance).
simple, but it was very original. My next move This has been my favourite sewing project
was to go fabric shopping (luckily for me, the so far, not because it was very elaborate or
fabric shop is next door to the wedding dress because it’s the most worn, but simply for
shop!) and I found some fabric that was sentimental reasons: even if I never wear it
almost identical to the dress I tried on before. again, every time I see my wedding dress
I guess that was fate! I came home with four it brings back some wonderful memories!”
metres of this amazing tulle beaded in See Pauline’s sewing pattern collection at
transparent and white pearls, and some www.paulinealicepatterns.com

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IssUe 28
TEMPLATES
Simply
MAKE!

Sewing
Eye position

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC


BACK BODY
(2x fabric B)

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TEMPLATES
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