INDEX

Sl. No. Content Page No.

1 Design and fabrication of glider using balsa wood 2
2 Design and fabrication of power glider using balsa wood 4
3 Design and fabrication of catapult 6
4 Design and fabrication of wing using balsa wood 9
5 Design and fabrication of horizontal and vertical stabilizer using balsa wood 21
6 Design and fabrication of double crank flapping mechanism 27

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 1. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF GLIDER USINGBALSA WOOD

AIM:

To design and fabricate the glider using balsa wood.

APPARATU’S REQUIRED:

 Balsawood
 Adhesive or Glue
 Cutting board
 Cutter
 Sandpaper
 Ruler
 Pencil

PROCEDURE:

1. On a piece of cardboard, use a pencil to trace out the shapes you will need for the airplane's
body, as per the dimensions shown in the figure:

2. Use a ruler or other flat edge to help you draw straight lines. Then, cut out the shapes you've
created using the cutter.

3. Using glue, generously smear it over sides and align corners and then press the piece for
perfect bond.

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4. Once the glue is dry, curve the wing and tail section to airfoil shape by scrubbing the edges
using sandpaper.

5. Make the edges of glider smooth and curve an in aerodynamic shape.

6. Finally do the c.g. balancing and use china clay for c.g. adjustment.

RESULT:

Thus, the fabrication of glider is done using balsa wood.

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 2. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF POWER GLIDER

AIM:

To design and fabricate the power glider using balsa wood.

APPARATU’S REQUIRED:

 Balsawood
 Propeller
 Propeller mounting fixture
 Rubber band
 Adhesive or Glue
 Cutting board
 Cutter
 Sandpaper
 Ruler
 Pencil

PROCEDURE:

1. On a piece of cardboard, use a pencil to trace out the shapes you will need for the airplane's
body.

2. Use a ruler or other flat edge to help you draw straight lines. Then, cut out the shapes you've
created using the cutter.

3. Using glue, generously smear it over sides and align corners and then press the piece for
perfect bond.

4. Once the glue is dry, curve the wing and tail section to airfoil shape by scrubbing the edges
using sandpaper.

5. Make the edges of glider smooth and curve an in aerodynamic shape.

6. Attach the propeller mounting fixture at the nose of the glider and fix the propeller.

7. Wind the rubber band around the propeller and rotate the propeller to increase the tension in
the rubber band.

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 8. Releasing the propeller will make it rotate thus the thrust will be produced which will make
the glider fly.

RESULT:

Thus, the fabrication of power glider is done using balsa wood.

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 3. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF CATAPULT

AIM:
To build a mini Popsicle stick catapult to launch mini marshmallows.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
 Popsicle sticks (10-20 per catapult)
 Rubber bands (1-2 per catapult)
 Masking tape
 Plastic utensils (preferably spoons)
 String (cotton, or something else easy to tie and manipulate. Not absolutely necessary)
 Paper (construction and/or printer)
 Plastic or paper cups (as targets)
 Mini marshmallows (or another suitable projectile)

PROCEDURE:

1. Arrange three sticks into triangle on a flat surface. These will form the sides of the catapult.

2. To tape the corners of the triangles, start by taping along one edge, then the other.

3. You should have two triangles now.

4. To build the cross-supports, break two Popsicle sticks in half. Place two strips of tape on the
opposite ends of the half-sticks such that the tape hangs off the end.

5. Lay the triangles flat and tape the tape the cross-support between them. Have tape tabs ready
for when you fold the triangle sides up into a 3D structure.

6. Fold the sides up and tape the bottom cross-support down firmly with the tape tabs. It will
still be very flimsy, which is why we want to add another cross-support.

7. Add a cross-support in the front. Keep in mind that the taping will be a bit awkward because you
will be taping at an angle. We now have two cross-supports.

8. Attach a small strip of tape to the end of your utensil. You’ll use this to attach it to the
2nd cross-support you just added.

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9. Tape the utensil to the support, but give yourself about ½ inch of a gap of empty tape
between the Popsicle stick and the plastic so that it can swing freely. Then tape over the
empty tape so that you have a two tape-thickness hinge.
This part of the catapult acts as a fulcrum.

10. Add another cross-support on the opposite side. It is below the fork prongs in the
image to the right.

11. A better term for the last cross-support is a stopping bar because it halts the utensil’s
movement. Make sure to loop a rubber band around the half-stick so that it will stay in
place once the stopping bar is taped down.

12. Tape the stopping bar down, allowing the rubber band to hang freely.
The stopping bar is where the force is applied.

13. Loop the rubber band over the utensil. You’ll have to stretch the rubber band to do
so.

14. Twist the rubber band and tape it down to increase its tension. This increases the
force that can be applied to the lever.

Catapult Design

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RESULT:

The catapult is constructed using simple materials

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 4. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF WING USING BALSA WOOD

AIM:

To design and fabricate the wing using balsa wood.

APPARATU’S REQUIRED:

 Balsawood
 Adhesive or Glue
 Cutting board
 Cutter
 Sandpaper
 Ruler
 Pencil

PROCEDURE:

1. Before the actual construction of the main wing is started, your work surface must be prepared.
Just about everybody has a different size work table or work surface. Use a ruler or other flat edge
to help you draw straight lines. Then, cut out the shapes you've created using the cutter.

NOTE: This is the plan view of the main wing halves. It is to be used as a reference only. The
wing construction is to be built to the lay out lines on your work surface using the
construction manual and photos.

2. It is advisable to segregate and position the supplied wing components on the wing lay out on
your build surface. Dry fit the parts while reading the instructions and reviewing the photos.
You can verify the parts received and familiarize yourself with the build process.

3. There are parts that need to be cut and assembled into sub-assemblies prior to the actual
assembling of the wing

4. The spruce 1/4”x1/2” main spars ( 4 pieces required: top, right & left and bottom, right & left)
are sistered from the center line out board approx. 17 1/2”. The main spars should now be

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 glued together forming the main spar sub-assemblies. They are made using 6 pieces of the
1/4”x1/2” x 36” spruce stock.

5. Once the glue is dry, the sistered ends of the main spar subassemblies should be cut and
sanded on a 1 degree angle as shown in the photo. Care must be used to form the proper angle
direction on each of the sub-assembled spars. Use the dihedral gage to mark and check the
angle. Set these parts aside for the wing assembly

6. Mark and shape the rear trailing edge by beveling the top surface of a balsa 1/4” x 1/2” x 36”
stick. See sketch & photos.

Note: The main wing assembly is made in two halves (right & left hand) later joined at the
center. Both halves can be built in unison or separately on the same work surface or board,
depending on the size of your work surface.

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7. The half wing assembly starts with the bottom main spar positioned with the sistered side
facing up and the rear side of the spar accurately lined up forward of the main work line
drawn on the work table or board. The 1 degree dihedral cut end should be lined up to the first
perpendicular work line (labeled C/L) drawn on the work table or board. This main spar
should be firmly fastened to the work table or board with pins.

8. Accurately trim the forward edge of the rear bottom sheeting (3/32”x2”x36”) straight and
placed on and pinned to the work table, lined up to the rear lay out line, 5.585” parallel to the
main spar that is drawn on your work table. Refer to sketch A or B.

9. Place the rear (1/4”x1/4”approx. 36” long) spar flat on the work table. Make sure it is
extended beyond the perpendicular work line (labeled C/L). The rear notches in the ribs will
control the location of the spar.

10. Place the main spar notch of a W1 rib “bottom” down on the main spar and on top of the rear
sheeting. Line the rib up inboard of the second perpendicular work line (labeled A). There
should be a 3/32” gap between the bottom of the rib and the table. Glue W1 rib in place to
anchor the construction.

11. Place the main spar notch of the second W1 rib “bottom” down on the main spar and on top of
the rear sheeting, spacing it 2” from the previous rib. This should line the rib up outboard of
the second perpendicular work line (labeled B). There should be a 3/32” gap between the
bottom of the rib and the table. Place the rear notch on the rear 1/4”x1/4” spar laying flat on
the work table. Glue the second W1 rib in place.

NoteThe rest of the main wing full rib spacings will be 3” apart. You can make a 3” spacer
block from wood, to be used as an aid to position the ribs apart. This will speed up the wing
build time. Make sure the ribs are positioned 90 degrees to the main spar.

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12. Place the main spar notch of the W2 rib “bottom” down on the main spar and on top of the
rear sheeting, spacing it 3” from the previous rib. There should be a 3/32” gap between the
bottom of the rib and the table. Place the rear notch on the rear 1/4”x1/4” spar laying flat on
the work table. Glue the W2 rib in place.

13. Place the main spar notches of the three W3 ribs on the main spar “bottom” down flat on the
work table and the rear offset on the forward edge of the rear sheeting, spacing each 3” from
the previous rib. Place the rear notch on the rear 1/4”x1/4” spar laying flat on the work table.
Glue in place.

Note: These twelve ribs identify the wing span. The total finished wing span (both wing
halves married together) should be approx. 70- 1/2”.

14. Place the main top spar in the top notches of all the ribs, lining up the beveled end of the top
spar with the beveled end of the bottom main spar using the dihedral gauge. Glue in place.

15. Place the laser cut aileron servo tray between the second and third W3 rib approx. 13” from
the center line of the wing. Place the tray on the top surface of the bottom main spar and the
bottom rear 1/4”x1/4” spar and against the second W3 rib. Glue in place.

16. Cut, fit and glue in place 1/4” x 1/2” spruce reinforcements for the servo mounting screws on
the top of the servo trays at the forward and rear of the servos opening.

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17. Place and glue the balsa top rear spar (1/4”x1/4”approx. 36” long) into the notches in all the
ribs. Make sure it is extended beyond the center line

18. Place the center W1 root rib on the bottom main spar, the top main spar, the rear upper and
lower spars, and the trailing edge, and use the 1 degree dihedral gage to set the angle and glue
in place.

19. Place and glue the balsa leading edge (1/2”x1/2”approx. 36” long) into the notches in the ribs
. Make sure it is extended proud of the W1 root rib.

20. Place and glue the preshaped balsa trailing edge (1/4”x1/2”approx. 36” long) on top of the
trailing edge sheeting and at the rear end of the ribs. Make sure it is proud of the center line.

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21. Cross cut all webbing from 3/32”x3”x36” balsa wood sheet stock. The front webbing length is
1-3/4” long, and the rear webbing is 1” long. Nine piece each is required on each wing half to
fill nine outer bays.

22. Glue the front webbing to the rear of the main spars, centered to leave clearance at top and
bottom of the main spars.

23. Glue the rear webbing to the front of the rear 1/4”x1/4” spars, centered to leave clearance at
top and bottom of the rear spars.

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24. Cut, fit and glue in place the diagonal wing braces, made from stock balsa 3/32x3/4x 36”,
between the webbing of the front and rear spars, centered to leave clearance at top and
bottom.

25. Cut and fit the 1” x 1” x 6” balsa reinforcement blocks to the dihedral angle of the center rib
and in length to the second rib. Shape the surface of the blocks to the rib profile. Glue in place
behind the leading edge and in front of the trailing edge.

26. Accurately trim the forward edge of the upper rear sheet straight. Place and glue the rear sheet
on the top of the ribs extending beyond the W1 root rib. Trim the top rear trailing edge
sheeting to be flush to the rear edge of the attached preshaped trailing edge.

27. Cut, fit and glue the rear top sheeting between the center line and the outboard side of the W2
rib.

28. Cut, fit and glue the forward top sheeting between the center line and the outboard side of the
W2 rib. After the glue on the center section sheeting has cured, cut two 3/16”x 1/2” slots in
the top leading edge sheeting at W2 rib. Precut center sheeting and set aside.

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29. Glue two 3/16”x3/16” top forward spars into these slots and in the notches of all the ribs.

30. Cut, fit and glue the forward bottom sheeting between the center line and the outboard side of
the W2 rib. After the glue on the center section sheeting has cured, cut two 3/16”x 1/2” slots
in the top leading edge sheeting at W2 rib.

31. Glue two 3/16”x3/16” bottom forward spars into these slots and in the notches of all the ribs.

32. Cut, fit and glue the bottom rear sheeting between the center line and the outboard side of the
W2 rib.

33. Cut, fit and glue the bottom center sheeting between the center line and the outboard side of
the W2 rib.

34. Trim the top and bottom rear trailing edge sheeting to be flush to the rear edge of the attached
pre-shaped trailing edge.

35. Cut the three W1 ribs along the laser scribed line and behind the main spars, creating a 1/8”
clearance for the dihedral brace.

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36. Cut the supplied pre-made cardboard tube to 11 3/4” in length. Slide the tube through the
holes in the center wing ribs up to and just through the 2nd W3 rib, and glue in place.

37. Trim all components flush to the surface of the W1 rib at the center, and to the outboard
surface of the last W5 rib.

38. Join the two (right and Left) wing panels together using the plywood laser cut dihedral brace
installed between the main spars. Care must be used to ensure there is no interference between
the wing panels and the dihedral brace providing a snug fit. When satisfied with the fit
between the two wing panels the following steps should be taken.

39. Place one wing panel flat on the build surface, and slide the second panel in place, guided by
the dihedral brace and using the dihedral gauge at the bottom of the last rib of the elevated
panel. Check the lineup of the leading and trailing edges. When satisfied with the alignment,
glue the dihedral brace and the two wing halves together using epoxy. Clean up any excess
epoxy with alcohol.

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40. Glue the laser cut plywood wing tips to both panels.

41. When the epoxy sets after joining the wing halves together, finish the remaining center wing
sheeting on both the top and bottom of the wing.

42. Cut 3/4” access hole in the top sheeting above the aileron servo wire tube.

43. Lightly sand the wing surface to eliminate surface high spots. Sand a radius along the front of
the leading edge to match the plywood wing tips. Then reinforce the center joint on the top
and bottom of the wing panels with 2” wide fiberglass tape.

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44. Apply glue to all the joints within the wing, don't be stingy with the glue. The integrity of the
wing depends on strong glue joints. Be sure the shear webs are bonded to the top and bottom
spars.
45. Install the laser cut plywood wing hold down plates to the bottom center of the wing and flush
with the trailing edge.

46. The two ailerons are now supplied in the short kit-- pre-cut from a 3/8”x4”x36” balsa sheet
and shaped to size. The sketch is for reference only

47. Mark, cut and temporarily install five equally spaced CA hinges in each aileron and in the
corresponding locations in the trailing edge of the wing. Reference the plan view of the main
wing half below.

48. Bevel the hinged edges of the wing and ailerons to create clearances for the flying surface
movements.

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 49. Temporarily assemble the hinged joints of the wing and ailerons (do not glue in the hinges)
and round over the remaining edges of the ailerons and wing.

RESULT:

Thus, the fabrication of wing is done using balsa wood.

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 5. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL
STABILIZER

AIM:

To design and fabricate the horizontal and vertical stabilizer using balsa wood.

APPARATU’S REQUIRED:

 Balsawood
 Adhesive or Glue
 Cutting board
 Cutter
 Sandpaper
 Ruler
 Pencil

PROCEDURE:

The empennage or tail feathers are built lightweight using a built-up truss construction with the
horizontal stab and vertical fin covered with 1/16” balsa sheeting for added strength. The control
surfaces are covered with only the final covering for lightness.

The build process is a total hand built construction (no laser cut components), utilizing tock
size balsawood sticks and sheets as specified on the plans. They are hand cut to size, assembled and
glued over the supplied drawing.

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 Note: prior to the actual start of the construction of thetail feathers, the supplied plans need to be
prepared as follows:

1. The supplied color plans consists of; foursheets (11"x17"), two of which have to be joined
together at the center line of the Horizontal Stab to form a complete full scale drawing of the
Horizontal Stab. Those two sheets should be carefully aligned to each other by lining up the
center line and the actual part lines on one sheet to another, thus forming the complete view of
the part.

2. Cut the sheet of the right hand view of the Horizontal Stab on the center line of the stab.

3. Over lay the cut sheet of the right hand view of the Stab and place it on the sheet of the left hand
view, lining up the center line and the part lines and tape them together.

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4. The assembled plan should be laid flat on the work surface, alignment of the sheets double checked
and then taped on your work surface. Prior to building on the assembled plan, cover them with a
protective film (wax paper or clear wrap).

HORIZONTALSTABILIZERCONSTRUCTION:

5. Cut, fit and pin the1/4”x2” balsastick (C) to the plan,to form the center support of the
horizontal stabilizer.

6. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4”x1/2” balsa sticks (A) to the plan, to form the leading edge, the side edges,
and the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer.

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 7. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4”x1/4” balsasticks (B) to the plan, to form the trusses of the horizontal
stabilizer.

8. Glue all the joints.

9.Remove the assembly from the plan, when the glue dries, and lightly sand both sides of the
surfaces flat while laying the assembly flat on the work surface.

10. Set the horizontal Stab assembly aside to be sheeted later.

VERTICALSTABILIZERCONSTRUCTION:

11. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4”x1/2” balsa sticks (A) to the plan, to form the leading edge, the top edge
and there are edge support of the vertical fin.

12. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4” x1” balsa stick (E) to the plan, to form the bottom edge of the vertical fin.

13. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4”x5/8” balsa stick (D) to the plan, to form the trailing edge of the vertical fin
that extends down beyond the bottom edge of the vertical fin.

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14. Cut, fit and pin the 1/4”x1/4” balsa sticks (B) to the plan, to form the trusses of the vertical fin.

15. Glue all the joints.

16. Remove the assembly from the plan when the glue dries, and lightly sand both sides of the
surfaces flat while laying the assembly flat on the work surface.

17. Set the vertical fin assembly aside to be sheeted later.

SHEETINGTHEHORIZONTALSTABILIZERANDVERTICALFIN:

18. Mark and then rough cut, (approx.1/16” larger) the periphery of the stab and fin on the 1/16” balsa
sheets making two pieces each, one to cover each side of the parts. Note, cover only the side
surfaces of the vertical fin to the bottom edge of the fin and do not cover the 1/4”x5/8” extended
surface. Some splicing of the 1/16” sheets may be required to cover both sides of both parts.

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19. Apply wood glue to one side of the stab and fin assemblies and place them on their respective
ough cut 1/16” sheets while they lay flat on the work surface. Place a weight on top of the parts to
hold them flat on the work surface while the glue dries.

20. After the glue dries, repeat the process on the opposite side on the stab and fin.

21. When both sides of the stab and fin sheeting is dry, sand the 1/16” sheeting flush to the periphery
of parts.

RESULT:

Thus, the fabrication of horizontal and vertical stabilizer is done using balsa wood.

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 6. DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF DOUBLE CRANK FLAPPING
MECHANISM

AIM:

To design and fabrication of double crank flapping wing mechanism.

MATERIAL REQUIRED:

 lightweight carbon fibre structure

 Balsa wood
 Shafts and pushrods
 Beads
 Rubber band
 Wing skeleton

APPARATUS REQUIRED:

 Super glue
 Paper clip
 Scale
 Pencil
 Plier

PROCEDURE:

1. First, cut out all of your wood and wire, Then start Gluing together.
Take your 4 1/2 in. stick and glue on the 1 in. sticks as shown in the picture. Then glue the 2 1/2
stick across the top.

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2. Then glue your three 3 1/2 pieces together in a triangle.

3. After that, bend your wire as shown in the picture below. ..

4. Now you can glue your beads on and put the wire pieces on (don't glue the wire! they should
turn freely.)

5. Glue the tail wire piece on.

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6. You'll need to glue the 5 in. sticks to the wire pieces. then take the 1 1/2 pieces and punch two
holes in the end and slip the ends through as seen in the picture.

7. Here's the wings you'll need to hot glue them to the spars. As for the tail just trace it and cut it
out.

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8.Just attach a rubber band, wind it and give it a toss!

RESULT:

Hence, the design and fabrication of flapping wing mechanism is done.

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