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Wave Environment
JEE306 – Assignment 1 – Thomas Fallon 207202
Abstract
This report compares two versions of the Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP wave spectrum models. These spectra
were implemented in a numerical code and compared to wave data for validation. The effect of the variation of
input parameters was studied and results compared. It was found that increase in wind speed for both spectrum
models led to an increase in the energy density peak and a decrease in the peak frequency. It was also found that
the fetch input parameter used in the JONSWAP spectrum reflects the change from developing to a fully developed
sea state.
is only dependent on one variable, wind speed (U (ms-
1
Introduction )), and the equation is given below.
𝜔 4
Predicting wave conditions and the energy that they 𝛼𝑔2 −𝛽( 0 )
𝑆(𝜔) = 𝜔5 𝑒 𝜔 (1)
will translate to ship or offshore structures is a vital
Where g=9.81ms =8.1 x 10 , =0.74 and 0=g/U.
-2 -3
part of structural design, as it provides the design
2) JONSWAP Spectrum
loads. To be able to characterise the chaotic nature
This spectrum was developed using measurements
of the ocean surface into a mathematical model,
taken during the Joint North Sea Wave Project
idealisations of the environment must be made. It is
(JONSWAP) by Hasselmann 1973 and is a
assumed that the irregular sea state is made up of
modification of the P-M spectrum used to describe
many regular wave components all moving in the
fetch limited regions. This is particularly useful for
same direction. By assuming this irregular wave
engineering application in areas such as the North
environment at a fixed point, the wave components
Sea. The spectrum is defined by the following
can be defined in a variance spectrum (S()) which
equation.
gives the wave energy density with respect to circular (𝜔−𝜔𝑚 )2
5 𝜔 −4 𝑒𝑥𝑝( )
wave frequency (). While this method can represent −5 2𝜎2 𝜔2
𝑆(𝜔) = 𝛼𝑔𝜔 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− 4 𝜔 ) 𝛾 𝑚 (2)
𝑚
a specified wave environment fairly accurately,
Where =3.3, =0.07 when <m otherwise =0.09
spectra can vary dramatically even for similar
when >m, =0.076 x̄-0.22, m=2fmg/V, x̄=gx/V2,
significant wave heights. It is therefore necessary to
fm=3.5 x̄-0.33, x is the fetch and V is the wind speed in
utilise idealised spectra which use a small number of
ms-1.
parameters to describe a sea state. These can then be
Using these spectral density equations, the spectral
used in the analysis of ships or offshore structures by
moments (Equation 3) can be calculated and then be
varying the input parameters to reflect different load
used to determine the wave statistics such as mean
conditions.
wave height (T1) (Equation 4), zero upcrossing period
This paper compares the effects of several variables
(Tz) (Equation 5), significant wave height (Hs)
on two commonly used waves spectrums. The
(Equation 6) and maximum wave height (Hmax)
Pierson-Moskowitz (P-M) and JONSWAP spectrums
(Equation 7).
were investigated and the effects of wind speed, ∞
fetch and given factors, compared to observe the 𝑚𝑛 = ∫0 𝑓 𝑛 𝑆(𝜔)𝑑𝜔 (3)
𝑚0
dependence of the spectra on these variables. 𝑇1 = 𝑚 (4)
1
𝑚
𝑇𝑧 = √𝑚0 (5)
Theory 2