5/4/2018 Thor Stormbreaker Pattern - Google Docs

Thor Stormbreaker Pattern 
Created by Sarah Maefs (Pepper Monster) 

1. Print out pattern. 

2. Cut out and tape axe pieces A1 and A2 together to make one large pattern piece. 

3. Place pattern pieces on black foam and cut each piece out carefully. 

* Pro Tip : Only cut out the pieces you are immediately about to work with. You may 

need to enlarge or cut down some pieces to fit as you assemble your weapon. This will 

also prevent the misplacement or loss of small pieces of foam. Label everything with a 

sharpie to be safe. 

4. Starting with the hammer end edges in the 10mm foam, pattern piece C , bevel the 

inside long edges to a 45-degree angle with a very sharp utility knife, a rotary tool, or a 

belt sander. 

5. Wipe away all dust from your foam surface and use super glue on the shorter ends of 

all four pieces C to the four sides of piece B (square hammer end in 10mm foam). Set 

aside. 

6. Cut out two pieces each of E and F . With a sharp utility knife, make shallow cuts into 

the surface, following the scoring lines on the pattern, and expand the lines using the 

heat from a heat gun run slowly over the surface, to create defined detail lines. On pieces 

F , carefully cut a V-shaped trench out of the length of the foam. Be careful to not cut 

more than halfway through the foam. Repeat on opposite side with E and F . 

7. Bend the foam to close the trench and super glue it closed. This will create a nearly 

90-degree angle in your piece. Use tape to hold the fold in place while glue dries, if 

necessary. 

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8. Bevel the long sides of all four pieces of pattern piece D , at a 45-degree angle (just like 

with pieces C ) and remove all dust. Set aside. 

9. Super glue the wider end of pattern pieces E and F to the longer side of pattern pieces 

C , making sure to have pieces F  (sides) across from each other, and E (top and bottom) 

across from each other. 

10. Super glue your long beveled edges of pieces D to the long sides of pieces E  and F , 

up to the angle you created at the end of the pieces. There will be excess length of foam. 

Do not glue it. 

11. Using sharp scissors, cut the excess length of foam of pieces D  into a triangular point 

and thin the foam down by half, removing from the underside of the piece, to allow for 

the foam to bend and fit into the gap at the end of the hammer. Glue in place. 

12. Cut out piece G  from foam, score in detail lines with your blade, spread them with 

your heat gun, and super glue the narrow ends of piece G to the inside of the square 

opening at the narrower end of your hammer. These form the base to which your 

hammer attaches to the handle. 

13. It’s time to close the four corners of your hammer. Pattern piece O is a “cut to fit” 

piece. Use tape and a sharpie to tape over the opening and trace the size and shape of 

your gap. Cut each corner to size of the pattern you make off your personal hammer. Use 

your blade to bevel the four corner sides, so they narrow in the wedge shape to plug into 

your hole snuggly. Glue in place. 

14. Use this time to clean up your seams. Glue any gaps, sand any ridges, and of you 

need to patch stubborn gaps, use Kwikseal (paintable silicon sealer) to patch any goofs. 

*Pro tip: Use water on your finger tip to smooth the Kwikseal. 

15. Cut out pieces A1/A2 from foam and glue together. 

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16. Bevel the axe blade’s curved edge, to create your mock-cutting-edge. Work slowly to 

evenly remove the foam. 

17. Following the pattern, score your details into the surface of your axe head using a 

sharp blade and shallow cut. Use your heat gun to spread the lines open just like on the 

hammer end. 

18. Cut out pieces J (2/4mm foam). Cutting very lightly into the foam with your sharp 

blade, score in your details from the pattern. 

19. Super glue down pieces J onto your Axe head, aligning all your details. 

20. Returning to the hammer end. Cut out pieces B2 (2/4mm foam). Score with a sharp 

blade the smaller inner circle, and use your heat gun to spread the detail. Glue down 

onto the center of piece B . 

21. Cut out pattern pieces H , and I , and connect them end to end with tape, adding a 

one-inch length between the two pieces to accommodate the corners of your hammer. 

22. Line up your piece H/I onto the hammer side, and glue down with your adhesive of 

choice. The detail should line up with the seam of your hammer, covering any 

imperfections you may be concerned with. Set aside. 

23. Grab a 24-inch length of PVC pipe, and heat the lower midsection with your heat 

gun slowly. The pipe will begin to become flexible. Careful so as to not burn yourself, 

bend your PVC pipe to curve slightly. Set aside to cool. 

24. Glue a 12-inch piece of PVC to the connector, disabling the junction. 

25. Super glue your axe head to the 12-inch piece of PVC, right in the center so that you 

have an even length of PVC both above and below your axe. Stabilize and let dry. 

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26. Once the axe is stable, glue the center of your hammer base to the PVC pipe opposite 

the axe head, with even amounts of PVC pipe above and below the hammer base. 

Stabilize and let dry. 

27. Once the hammer is stable, cut out pieces K . Score in and spread with heat the 

details. 

28. Glue pieces K to the front and back of the Axe/Hammer head, covering the PVC 

pipe. The base of the axe head will be sandwiched between pieces K , which will help 

stabilize it even more. 

29. Cut out pieces L and bevel the long edges. Super glue your beveled edge the the base 

of your hammer, and flat against piece K, so as to create a slope from the base of the 

Hammer, to the handle. 

30. Cut out pieces M . Bevel the two long sides of the triangle, so as to close off your gap 

at the top of piece L and K . 

31. Cut out pieces N , cutting to fit your gap in pieces K . Glue pieces N at the top of the 

hammer handle, in the right and left gaps between pieces K , hiding the upper portion of 

your PVC pipe. Cut to fit piece P , to fill the square gap at the top of your hammer 

handle. 

32. Cut to fit any additional foam pieces needed to close off the gaps in your handle 

around the base. Your Groot Growth of the handle will cover most of these gaps, but 

filling them will give a better finished look. 

32. Cut a long strip of 10mm foam and wrap it around the exposed length of PVC pipe at 

the base of your Hammer/Axe. Glue in place and cut or sand away excess foam from the 

seam. 

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33. Cut a long strip of 10mm foam and wrap it around the 24inch piece of curved PVC 

foam, leaving the appropriate gap at the top of the pipe so it can connect flush with your 

upper piece of PVC. Cut or sand away excess foam from the seam. 

34. Attach the handle to the Axe/Hammer together at their PVC pipe junction. The 

curve in the handle should bow out towards the axe side of your hammer. 

35. Using the sanding drum attachment on your rotary tool on a low speed setting, or 

another sander, carve into your foam handle a wooden texture. Long irregular lines, 

creating knots, blemishes, and winding vine texture both above and below the juncture. 

36. Cut two 24-inch or more lengths of 10mm foam, in an irregular but roughly inch to 

inch and a half strips. Round their edges and bevel the same wood grain into these 

pieces, so that they match your Groot Growth on your handle. 

37. Super glue your two strips of 10mm foam that now look like vines, in an 

criss-crossing X shape on the front and back of your hammer/axe head, and down onto 

the handle but ending above your juncture. 

38. Using your sanding tool of choice, blend your cross crossing vines into your Groot 

Growth handle. 

39. Cut three wedge shaped pieces of 10-mm foam roughly 4-inches long, and glue 

together like a sandwich. Use your sanding drum on your rotary tool to round your 

edges and blend the pieces together to make one block of foam. 

40. Glue your wedge to the bottom of your Groot Growth handle, and once dry and 

stable, sand the wedge to blend into the handle, adding the wood grain into the base and 

flowing it up into the handle. 

41. Cut out piece Q , score and spread with heat the detail, and glue to the underside of 

the axe head, tapering off towards the Groot Growth handle. 

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42. If you plan to use a heat knife or puffy paint to apply your rune details to your 

hammer, do this now. If not, paint them on at the end. 

43. Wipe down entire hammer to remove all dust. A damp cloth will help get the dust 

out of the crevices. Allow to fully dry. 

44. Following the instructions on the can, plastidip spray your whole hammer, at least 

two layers, to seal the foam, making your new prop more durable and ready for paint. 

45. Once dry, you can paint! Light and dark silver for your hammer and axe head. Light 

and dark brown for the handle. Dry brush the browns onto the high points of the handle, 

allowing the black plastidip to serve as your shading, creating a natural depth on your 

wood. 

46. Use a small paint brush to apply black into all your scored-in details of your 

Hammer/Axe. If you are painting your rune details, do so now. Use a mixture of the 

silvers and black to shade your hammer/axe to your liking. 

47. Seal your new fully painted hammer with a clear matte finish spray to prevent paint 

transfer and add durability to your most precious prop. 

48. Use a long length of leather twine to wind around your hammer’s Groot Growth 

handle. Wrap around above the junction, and separately below, so that your hammer 

can come apart for travel purposes, but the wrapping disguising the seam. Wrap another 

long length at the lower end of the handle, covering any visible seam where your wedges 

bottom base attached to your handle. 

And there you have it... Stormbreaker! 

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