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Troubleshooting in dyeing of woven fabrics on high-

temperature jig machine

By: Muhammad Awais Imran, Muhammad Moosa Abdul Rehman

Introduction

Jig dyeing is very common for woven fabrics due to the crease-free process. Many
problems are associated with it, most commonly tailing problem (shade variation
along the length of the fabric). In this paper, a practical approach has been presented
for dyers to cope the tailing problem. Sometimes listing (shade variation from side-
to-side i.e. centre to right/left of width of the fabric) is also a problem. A suitable dye
dosing criteria is suggested to jig dyers that present a fault-free jig dyeing of woven
fabrics.

Equipment

We have taken following jig machine for our observation. The specifications can vary
from machine to machine, but the main theme is to solve the tailing and listing
problems of jig dyeing machine. The technical specifications are given below:

Jigger Dyeing Machine Specifications

• Roller Width = 122”

• Centre Distance = 21”

• Fabric Capacity = 1000-3000 meters

• Main Roll Dia = 8.3”

• Temperature = 135 oC

• One side door, Pressure gauge 130 lbs (8.9 Bar), Temperature sensor,

temperature automatic control

Symptoms, Diagnosis and cure concept in Jig dyeing

CURE
SYMPTOMS DIAGNOSIS
1. High speed & speed 1. Constant speed & Medium
variation (150 m/min i.e. speed (80-100 m/min i.e.
Listing 20 mints per cycle) 30-35 mints per cycle)
2. Temperature variation side 2. Control of temperature &
to side proper winding of fabric
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3. Dosing criteria through jig main rollers

3. Follow the Dosing Criteria
heading (given in below)

1. Dyes Dosing should be

1. High Dyes / Chemicals
dosed in portions (400 to
Concentration
400 meters fabrics )
2. Unknown
2. Need to use Medium
disperse/reactive dyes
sublimation disperse dyes
properties profile
& medium substantive
3. Different migration of
reactive dyes
different disperse and
3. Balance migration
reactive dyes
properties in trichromatic
4. pH Variation
shades
5. Liquor level variation
4. Use of acidic buffer
6. Levelling issues
5. Liquor level can be
7. Temperature (8-10 oC)
controlled by variable
Tailing variation during running of
dosing
lot
6. Use of dispersing / levelling
8. High speed & speed
agents
variation (150 m/min i.e.
7. Speed should be lower
20 mints per cycle)
(increment in dwell time)
9. Extra length of fabric
8. Increase the dwell time (35-
meters (more than the
40 min per cycle) with
specified capacity of jig
constant lower speed
machine)
9. Shorten the length of fabric
i.e. 20%

Dyeing Dwell Time

Dwell time is fabric-liquor contact time. For example, if it takes 5 hours to jigger-dye
1,000 meters of fabric, it means it takes only 18 seconds to dye one meter of the
fabric. The diffusion process of a dye depends on time; more contact time with dye
liquor will give full depth shades. The speed of the fabric (metres/minute), tension of
jig main rollers and temperature of dye liquor should be consistent throughout the
process to get even and uniform shade.

Jigger Data:

Details Normal Dyeing Suggested Dyeing

Fabric Meters 3000 2500
Total Dyeing
06 (2 Cold & 4 hot) 06 (2 Cold & 4 hot)
Cycles
Speed 135 75-80
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(m/min)
Avg. Cycle
22 35
Time (mints)
Total Time
6*22 = 132 6*35 = 210
(mints)
Dyeing
time/meter 132/3000 = 0.044*60 = 2.7 210/2500 = 0.08*60 = 5.1
(sec)

Shade Variation

As it is an inherent problem with jig dyeing machine, it gives shade differences i.e.
tailing and listing, if dye dosing and circulation of fabric through dye liquor are not
controlled properly. There are some major reasons of shade variation, some of them
are:

• Temperature variation with width of the fabric or length of the fabric

• Improper dye dosing
• Uneven tension on fabric when end/cycle changes
• Inconsistent speed of the fabric

Therefore, it is advisable to use closed jigger machine for consistent temperature

throughout the dyeing process and standardized dye doing system.

1. Dosing Criteria

NORMAL DOSING SUGGESTED DOSING

• 1st end 1/2 dosing • 1st end 1/6 dosing

• 2nd end 1/2 dosing
• 2nd end 1/6 dosing
• 3rd end 1/6 dosing
• 4th end 1/6 dosing
• 5th end 1/6 dosing
• 6th end 1/6 dosing

DYEING METHOD: ONE-BATH TWO STEPS DISPERSE DYEING

1st Cycle 2nd Cycle

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1. Fill the jigger bath 200 litres (or
50% of the total water level of
machine) with water and add half
quantity of buffer.
2. Make stock solution of 200 litres
in four drums or any suitable item
with adding of disperse dyes.
3. Add 17 litres solution from the
stock solution in the bath and run
the 400 meters fabric.
4. Similarly repeat this procedure
until the end of one cycle, so there
will be six doses in single cycle
after each 400 meters
REACTIVE DYEING
1st Cycle
1. Fill the jigger bath 200 litres with
water and add half quantity of
salt
2. Make stock solution of 200 litres
in four drums with adding of
reactive dyes
3. Add 17 litres solution in the bath
and run the 400 meters fabric
4. Similarly, repeat this procedure
until the end of one cycle, there
will be six doses in each cycle
after each 400 meters
References:
1. Duckworth, C. (Ed.). (1983). Engineering in textile coloration. Dyers
Company Publications Trust.
2. Shamey, R., & Hussein, T. (2005). Critical solutions in the dyeing of cotton
textile materials. Textile progress, 37(1-2), 1-84.
3. Shore, J. (1995). Cellulosics dyeing. Society of Dyers and Colourists.
1. For 2nd cycle add another half
quantity of buffer & repeat the
same procedure as done in 1st
cycle with remaining 100 litres
stock solution.
2. After completion of dosing and
two cycles, now for initiating the
3rd cycle, first maintain the
temperature up to 90 oC and then
raise the temperature up to 130 oC
Check the pH with suggested time
& temperature.
3. Run 4th cycle @ 130 oC , 35’
4. Repeat reaming cycles same as
given above
2nd Cycle
1. For 2nd cycle add another half
quantity of salt & repeat the same
procedure as done in 1st cycle
with remaining 100 litres stock
solution
2. After completion of dosing and
two cycles, now for initiation of
3rd cycle, first maintain the
temperature up to 60 oC and then
add soda ash via checking the pH
(9-11)
3. Run 4th cycle at the rate of 60 oC
35’
4. Repeat reaming cycles same as
given above
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About the Author:

Muhammad Awais Imran and Muhammad Moosa Abdul Rehman are visiting
faculty members of Department of Textile Science, Faculty of Engineering, Science
& Technology, Indus University, Karachi, Pakistan.