Apparel Internship Report

Abhinav's PC

Date: 29th May, 2017 to 29th August 2017

Project on “Development of Customized Lay Calculator for Daily Lay

Scheduling of Cutting Department” & “Increasing Spreading Production
and Efficiency of Solid and Checks Fabric”

Under the guidance of: Dr. Ajit Kumar Khare (Professor)

Submitted By: Abhinav Kumar

BFT/14/884
NIFT MUMBAI
(Batch- 2014-2018)
 DECLARATION

I, Abhinav Kumar, hereby declare that the internship project Report titled “Development of

Customized Lay Calculator for Daily Lay Scheduling of Cutting Department” & “Increasing

Spreading Production and Efficiency of Solid and Checks Fabric”, submitted towards the

fulfillment of 14 weeks internship is my original work and no part of the project has been

copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else which has been

submitted for any other degree/award. However, any material taken from any other published

source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various places.

Name: Abhinav Kumar (_____________________)

Batch: B.F.Tech (2014-2018)

Centre: Mumbai

Date: 29th May, 2017 to 29th August, 2017

Place: Gauribidanur
 CERTIFICATE

“This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Development of Customized Lay Calculator for
Daily Lay Scheduling of Cutting Department” & “Increasing Spreading Production and
Efficiency of Solid and Checks Fabric”,, is based on our, original research work, conducted under
the guidance of Dr. Ajit Kumar Khare (Professor) towards partial fulfilment of the requirement
for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel Production), of the National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai. No part of this work has been copied from any other
source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.”

Signature of Author/Researchers
 Acknowledgement

“Tell me and I forget, teach me and I remember, Involve me and I learn” - Benjamin Franklin

I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to Mr. Hiral
Lakdawala, (Plant Manager), SSAL-II for providing me this golden opportunity to work under
this project. His exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the
course of Apparel Internship. The help given by him from time to time shall carry me a long way
in the journey of life on which I am about to embark.

I would like to present my overwhelming gratitude to my institute mentor Dr. Ajit Kumar Khare
(Professor) whose contribution has enriched me with valuable input, my Center Coordinator
Mrs. Kavita Pathare for his continuous guidance and support.

I owe my deepest gratitude to my Industry mentor Miss. Diksha Kumari (Executive-IE), SSAL-II
for the valuable guidance, advice, useful comments, remarks and engagement throughout the
learning process of this project and sharing her precious time with us during the internship.

It is with immense gratitude that I acknowledge the support and help of my former Industry
Mentor Mr. Rohit Kumar (Deputy Manager). His throughout consideration and sincere
guidance helped me covering up each and every topic in the successful completion of this
Report.

I would like to thank Mr. Raghavendra (Manager-Maintenance Department) (for his valuable
support in fulfilling my every sort of requirements that gave me the possibility to complete this
project successfully.

Last but not the least I deeply appreciate the guidance provided by the staffs and operators at
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. who were a helping hand at every next step.

Thank you Silver Spark.

Introduction:

Company Name RAYMOND LIMITED

Chairman and Managing Director

MR. GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA.
Raymond Limited

Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II,

Industry Name
No. - 4/2A, 5/3A, 3B
Address Gundapura village , Kasba Hobli
Gauribidanur Taluk, Chikkaballapur dist.
Contact detail Karnataka, Pin- 561208
Tel - +91855-283288

GENERAL MANAGER MR. KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN

Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II

Plant Manager MR. HIRAL LAKDAWALA

Type of Manufacturing APPAREL MANUFACTURING

Year of Establishment 24 October 2008

Area 11 Acres and build up area 2,00,000 sq. feet

Core Products Jacket Trouser Waist Coat

Manpower 2100 (including staff)

JACKET-3300

Capacity per day TROUSER-3000

Business across the world 55 countries

Buyers:
Express, J.C.Penney, Peerless Clothing, GAP, Dressman, Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, Navada, WE,
James Berry, Haggar, Pellestrom, Japan, Hugh and Crye, NLY, MON, Jaeger.
Flow Chart:

Fabric
Department

Cutting
Department

•Maintainance
Sewing Department
Department •Industrial
Engineering

•Maintainance
Finishing Department
Department •Industrial
Engineering

Warehouse
Fabric Department:
Fabric is the main raw material for garment manufacturing and it involves 60-70% of total garment cost.
To ensure that only quality fabric is used in garments, factory takes precautionary measures and set up
fabric inspection department with qualified personnel.

Inventory – 1 month 7 days.

Standard Operational Procedure:

Unloading

Rack Allocation

BOM Checklist

Order Planning (PPC)

•If wool blend is there then relaxation or sponging is done as per the buyer requirement

12 Parameter inspection

Width report sent to CAD Department

Recieves roll allocation slip from CAD department (Soft Copy)

Physical Issue of Maintioned

rollwise detail

Barcode scan and Fabric kept in supermarket area 1 day

before spreading

After issuing, requisition diary is maintained.

Some Important Facts:
 1 Pallet = 4000 m ( max.)
 Rack Description:
o Total number of racks: 750
o Approximately 16 crore’s inventory is there in the fabric store.
Fabric Inspection Parameter:

1. 4 point system (ASTM D5430)

𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑝𝑜𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑠 𝑠𝑐𝑜𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝑖𝑛 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑏𝑢𝑙𝑘 𝑥 100 𝑥 100
Points per 100 sq meter =
𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑓𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐(𝑐𝑚)𝑥 𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ(𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑠)

Penalty Point Evaluation

Defects in both the wrap and weft directions for woven are assigned point using the following
criteria:

Points Inches (”) (mm)

1 Point Defects up to 3 inches Up to 75mm
2 Point Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches Defects > 75mm< 150mm
3 Point Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches Defects > 150mm< 230mm
4 Point Defects > 9 inches Defects > 230mm

Acceptance points: Less than or equal to 40 points per 100 meters.

2. Shade band card

The cut fabric pieces are grouped or categorized in A, B, C, D as per the shade band family of all
rolls. A fabric shade band card is formed in which helps in identifying the shade of the different
roll.

3. Shade Report
Shade report gives us the information that, which roll has which shade.

4. Face Side Approval

Face side approval is done while the basic fabric inspection which the operator checks that the
face of the received fabric matches with the approved sample or not.

5. Hand Feel

Hand feel is also same as the face side approval testing which is done while fabric inspection, in
which hand feel is checked by touching the fabric.

6. Shrinkage Report

Garment fit is a very important factor in the purchase decision of the customer. Misfit at any
stage of the life of garment can lead to premature rejection and earn a bad perception for the
brand. A garment is supposed to be washed after every use and expected to retain the same fit
 and appearance during the lifetime of the garment. To fulfill this fabric has to be tested for
dimensional stability. For this shrinkage tests are carried out is order to manipulate the patterns
in the same ratio to avoid any measurement problems after garment washing.

Steam shrinkage is carried out 5 % for different types of fabric so as to avoid any deviation from
actual pattern of the garment during exposure to heat and moisture i.e., pressing and finishing.

Standard shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend) 2-2.5%

Standard shrinkage for wash product: 2.5-3.5%

(𝑩𝒆𝒇𝒐𝒓𝒆 𝑫𝒊𝒎𝒆𝒏𝒔𝒊𝒐𝒏−𝑨𝒇𝒕𝒆𝒓 𝑫𝒊𝒎𝒆𝒏𝒔𝒊𝒐𝒏)𝒙 𝟏𝟎𝟎

Shrinkage % =
𝑩𝒆𝒇𝒐𝒓𝒆 𝑫𝒊𝒎𝒆𝒏𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏

Shrinkage template is calibrated monthly.

7. CSV (Centre to Selvage Variation)

1 2 3 4

Above is the sequence for centre to selvage variation testing.

3 1 4 2
2 4 1 3

 The cut parts are rearranged in the above manner. If there is any variation, then there is
a Centre to Selvage Variation and manual marker will be used.

 If there is no variation then Nested marker can be used.

8. Color Fastness
To check the fabric with Per-Chloro Ethylene and Steam water separately for color fastness.
The assessment is being done by visually comparing the difference in color or contrast between
the unrated and treated specimens with the difference represented.
Color Fastness is also checked by wet rubbing in order to determine the resistance of the color
to rubbing.
Color fastness

9. Nap direction

Nap direction of fabric that has texture to it and some kind of pile. Fabrics consider to be with
nap would be velvet, velour, corduroy, and suede. If the fabric has nap, then spreading should
be carefully done and laying out the pattern pieces so that the grain line is all going in one
consistent direction.

10. Bowing and Skewing

 11. Width Report
Width inspection is done on the inspection table. The measurement is taken by the operator in
the beginning and noted down. If the width differs from the ordered width, (if it is less) then
fabric is rejected. This width report is very important in the marker making.

12. Seam Slippage

Seam Slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at the seam, causing gap or holes
to develop. It involves warp and weft thread pulling apart, but not yarn breakage.

In seam slippage testing, a 10cm x 10 cm piece of fabric is cut and folded width wise and a line
stitch is done. After stitching, the edges of fabric is feed into Shearing test machine. The clamp
holds the two edges of the fabric and standard pressure is applied on the fabric. If the stitch gets
burst out then there is seam slippage in that fabric. Then more care is required to stitch such
type of fabric.

Flow Chart of Cutting Department: CAD

Spreading

Cutting

Numbering

Inspection

Re-cutting

Band Knife

Fusing

Bundling
 CAD Department:

1. CAD Planning:

Cutting Room Planning is very important and should be done every order. Good planning helps in better
utilization of available resources and improving cutting room efficiencies. The cutting plan should be
made well in advance to allocate resources and check on fabric availability and flow for the planned
cutting. Various points that should be kept in mind while making cutting plan are:

i. Requirements of sewing room

ii. Availability and flow of raw-material i.e., fabric.
iii. Available Manpower and Resources like spreading table and cutters.
iv. Constraints of work-place.

Planning Checklist:

BOM Checking Checklist Checking Step Ply Checking Summary checking

Model (Style) checking Shrinkage Checking Swatch Card Checking Pairing size checking

Color, Article, PO, Lay

Quantity, Lay Number, Received fabric and
Ratio Checking Roll allocate
Number Of plies, Lay required fabric checking
Length, Fabric Width.

Fabric checking like

Fabric Report checking (Solid, Stripes, Checks, Cut ticket checking Consumption Checking
One way) etc.
 Process Flowchart of Cutting department:

File received from merchant

Collect 12 parameter
Collect patterns from Follow up on cut tickets for production reports from Fabric
pattern department (BOM) quality assurance

If any problem then concern to respective

department

Planning done in MORGAN and GERBER

software according to size breakup and
color

Total fabric consumption is done in

sofware.

Marker making is done in GERBER(GTXL)

Average marker consumption is calculated

in MORGAN sowftware.

Waistage alowance is added 2 to 5 %

depending on the recutting and shrinkage.

Collect the fabric from concern stores with

all reports

Spreading according to the marker planning

Cutting( with checking mii marker, lay

length , width , marker name )
 Numbering

Inspection of cut parts

Relaying/Recutting/ triming (if there is

a problem in cut panels.

Band Knife

Fusing of cut parts

Bundle issue (Make quantity according

to sewing demand)

Types of Marker Used:

Nested Marker Manual Marker

•Nested marker is automised marker which is •Manual marker is done manually in which
made from software. The patterns which operators place pattern manually by their
come from pattern department is fed into skill. It varies from operator to operator. It is
software which automatically generates a hit and trial method which consumes
marker which is known as Nested Marker. much more time.
•This marker is only for NON-CSV (Non •This marker making can be applicable for
Centre to selvage variation) fabric. both CSV and Non-CSV Fabric.
•Efficiency: •Efficiency:
•Jacket: •Jacket:
•Min: 85% •Min: 82-83%
•Max: 86-87% •Max: 84-85%
•Trouser: •Trouser
•Min: 85% •Min: 84%
•Max: 88% •Max: 86%
•Used for these types of fabric: •Used for these types of fabric:
•Non-CSV Fabric •CSV Fabric
•Non-CSV Solid •CSV Solid Fabric
•Check Fabric
•CSV Stripes
Spreading:

Laying or spreading is the first and most important section of cutting department. It is a preparatory
operation for cutting which consist of laying plies of fabric one on top of the other in a predetermined
direction and relationship between right and wrong sides of the fabric. Laying can be done both
manually and automatically.

 There are total 3 spreading machine out of which only 2 is working.

 They are in Line 1 and Line 2.
 And rest of the spreading mode is manual in which 2 operators pull the fabric and spread it
uniformly on the table.

Numbers of plies depend on:

 Capacity of the cutting machine

 Type of fabric
 Thickness of Fabric

Requirements of spreading:

 Planning should be done and lay reports should be made.

 Laying should be done as per it is scheduled.
 Swatch card and shade card should be received.
 Fabric requisition should be done two days prior to laying.
 Alignment of plies in both length and width direction.
 Avoid distortion in the spread during cutting.
 Fabric must be flat and free during cutting
 Checks and stripes should be matched using pining table.

Method of Laying:

 Manual Laying
 Automatic Laying (Gerber Spreader is used to spread fabric automatically)

Table Dimension:

i. Pin Table:
 Length= 3.8 m
 Width= 1.81 m
 Height= 0.85 m
 Pin height= 0.11 m
 Distance b/w pin = 0.14 m
ii. Flat Table:
 Length= 14.9 m
 Width= 2.2 m
 Height= 0.85 m
Principles of Manual Fabric Spreading Method:

 The fabric is pulled carefully from the fabric roll by hand.

 Weights are there to hold the spread fabric on the table so that their orientation do not
changes.
 Then fabric is spread uniformly so that no crease is there on the spread fabric and cut at the
required length using either by End cutter machine or by scissors.
o Mainly checks are cut by scissors to find whether there is any bowing or skewing defects
present in the fabric.

Principles of Mechanical Fabric spreading method:

 The fabric roll is unwound and spread either by semi-automatically or automatically.

 The spreader head is moved back and spread over the table.
 The spreader machine is capable of spreading both “face up” and “face to face” spreading
mode.
o The spreader machine is comprises of cutting mechanism so no separate end cutter is
required to cut the end of the fabric.
o Machine carries the piece of fabric from end to end of the spread.
o It consist frame, wheel, guide rail, fabric support, guide collar to unroll the fabric.
o Machine consist of motor, platform, ply cutting device, automatic catcher, ply counter,
alignment shifter, photoelectric edge guides, turn table and direct drive
o Width of fabric can handled is 2m & maximum weight of fabric roll can carried is
250kg.
o Maximum spread is 100m/min. maximum height of spread cloth is 22cm.

Types of Fabric Spreading:

1. Flat spreading: All the plies are of the same length.

 The main objective of flat spreading mode is to spread same number of plies and cut
same quantity of pieces per ply.
2. Stepped Spreading: This is built up in steps and all plies in one step having same length.
 This spreading mode is used to cut different quantity of pieces of different sizes within
one marker.
Mode of Laying differs from type of Fabric. There are three types of mode:

1. Face Up
a. Body Lining
b. Sleeve Lining
c. Shell Fabric
d. Bone Lining
e. In Pocket
f. Pocket Bag
2. Face to Face
a. Shell Fabric
3. Face Down Face Up
a. Shell Fabric
b. Body Fusing
c. Parts Fusing
d. Lapel Fusing
e. NR Fusing

Lay Scheduling:

It is one of the most important process before laying. This process is done to maintain the WIP in laying
table as well as in whole cutting department. There are 7 sewing lines and each line have different laying
table. Here, process is streamlined so scheduling is done line wise.

Scheduling is done on the basis of WIP on Table, Numbering, Fusing, and Loading (According to feeding
given to sewing line)

Note: Wrong scheduling can cause tacking up of the lays on table which will affect the quality of the
product.
Standard Operation Procedures:

Lay reports are generated at the planning section

Lay reports received from CAD by the scheduling operator

Lay scheduling is done sequence wise

Input length, No. of Plies, Spreading modes and spreading type in

laying calculator

Time is written on lay scheduling sheet by using laying calculator

Take prints of lay scheduling sheet and put on the board.

Use laying checklist to keep a track of WIP in laying section

Laying checklist should be filled simultaneously

Check planned Vs Actual laying

Collect all the scheduled sheet from laying operators

Daily Production board is filled

Next day planning

Planning Sequence:

S.No Material Type Consumption (m) Code

1 Shell A
2 Body lining 1m B
3 Sleeve Lining 0.6 m T
4 Collar Felt 0.05 m J
5 Pocket Bags 0.42 m H
6 Chest Canvas 0.18 D
7 Shoulder Canvas 0.07 Z
8 Sleeve Head Felt 0.31 G
9 Body Fusing 0.4 m C
10 Part Fusing 0.6 m I
11 NR Fusing (Non woven 0.03 O
Stitch Reinforced
Fusing)
12 Sleeve Head Canvas 0.31 F
13 Chest Felt 0.2 E
14 Franco Fusing X

Shell Product Consumption (m):

S.No Shell Product Solid Stripe Checks

1 Jacket 1.64 1.96 1.99
2 Trouser 1.36 1.44 1.54
3 Vest Coat 0.58 0.6 0.65

Planning Sequence (Priority Wise):

 Shell

Body Fusing

Part Fusing

NR Fusing (Non woven

Stitch Reinforced Fusing)

Welt Fusing

Body lining

Sleeve Lining

Collar Felt

Pocket Bags

Chest Canvas

Shoulder Canvas

Sleeve Head Felt

Sleeve Head Canvas

Chest Felt
Cutting:

Types of Automatic CNC (Computerized Numerical Controlled machine):

Sr. No. Machine Name Used For Quantity

1. Gerber Cutter Jacket 4
2. Morgan Razor 70 Trouser 1

Standard Operating Procedure of Gerber Cutter:

Open Marker

Piece Search

Restore Marker

Open Marker

Set Knife Speed

Move to Origin

Knife Sharpening

Vacuum On/Off

Set Origin

Initializing

Start Cutting

Marking Pattern Number

Unloading of cut parts

Specification of Gerber Cutting Machine (GERBERcutter):

 The interface is very easy and anyone can operate with less training.
 There are two series of GERBER Paragon Cutter, L-Series and V-Series.
 Here V-series is in use, which can cut up to 7.2 cm or 2.8 inches of compressed material and
maximum width is 2.2 meters.
 It can cut about 70-80 plies of shell fabric.
 Maximum speed= 2400 rpm.
 The blade of Gerber Cutting is changed after 8 hours.
 Automatic sharpening of blade is done by the machine.
 The CAD department sends the marker directly to the machine, and that marker is feed in to the
machine which makes the work process easy.
 Plastic sheet is used to cover the fabric so that the suction machine can be used effectively.

Specification of Morgan Razor 70 Cutting Machine:

 Morgan Razor 70 is very high speed cutting machine which can cut upto 7 cm of compressed
material.
 It can cut up to 100 plies of shell fabric and up to 150 plies of lining fabric.
 Maximum Speed= 2800 rpm.
 It is same as Gerber Cutting machine but only the difference is of speed and blade size of the
cutter.
 The blade if Morgan Cutting machine is changed after 2 days.

Numbering:
Numbering is the process of assigning a number code to fabric.

2 40 2 99 0146

Button Code Size Reg Code Factory Code Serial Number

Reg Code:
Short-1
Regular- 2
Long-3
XL-4

There are two ways, numbering is done:

i. Stamping
Stamping is done on the lining and other parts which consist of 10 digit code which helps in
identifying the parts. In stamping, stamping machine is there which is operated manually by
the operated which gives a 10 digit code.
 ii. Sticker Attachment (Stickering)
Sticker attachment is also same as stamping, but in this operation the sticker which is made
up of paper is attach to the fabric. Sticker attachment is done on shell fabric, because
stamping will give impression of ink on the other side of the shell fabric.
Sticker attachment is useful as it can be take off easily and can be used on the different
place.

Inspection:
i. Cut Block Inspection:

In this inspection, all blocks (Top/Middle/Bottom plies) are 100 % inspected on the pattern
for below parameter.

CRITICAL TO QUALITY:

 Notch depth/ missing (standard 3mm and tolerance +/- 1 mm)

 Serial Number
 Shape off
 Shrinkage of cut parts after fusing
 Wrong Size
 Wrong Serial Number
 Panel Length / Width (+/- 3 mm)
 Parts missing
 Mismatch stripe/ checks (Standard 100%, tolerance: +/- 1 mm)
 Ragged Cutting
 Number Visibility
 Bowing/Skewing

Cut blocks to be inspected:

i. Jacket Shell: Front, Back, Side panel, Top sleeve, In sleeve and lapel
ii. Jacket Lining: Front, Back, Side panel, Top sleeve, and In sleeve
iii. Trouser: Front, Back, Waistband, Fly, Facing, Pocket Bags, Knee Lining
iv. Vest Shell: Front, Side panel, Lapel Facing
v. Vest Lining: Front Lining, Back, side panel lining.

ii. Visual Inspection For Fabric defect:

In this inspection, all cut parts are 100% visually inspected for fabric defect to eliminate final
rejection.
Critical to Quality:
 Missing pick
 Double pick
 Missing end
 Foreign yarn
 Naps
  Slub
 Knots
 Hole/Damage
 Stain
 Selvedge
Cut blocks to be inspected:
i. Jacket Shell: Front, Back, Side panel, Top sleeve, In sleeve and lapel
ii. Jacket Lining: Front, Back, Side panel
iii. Trouser: Front, Back
iv. Vest Shell: Front, Side panel, Lapel Facing
v. Vest Lining: Front Lining, Back, side panel lining.

iii. Roaming Inspection:

Inspection is carried out one time in each line per day randomly across the cutting section.
During Spreading:
 Marker Configuration
 Buyer Name
 Style
 Purchase order
 Color
 Lay Number
 Lay Quantity
 Lay Type (F/F or Face Up)
 Lay Length and width
 Number of plies
 Leaning
 Bowing and skewing
 Fabric defects
 Alignment (3 sides)
 Lay tension
 Stripes / Checks match @ pinning

Critical to Quality in Fusing:

 Facing m/c temp

 Pressure at 3 points
 Timing
 Bond strength
 Fusing material
 Fusing Excess/Shortage
 Measurement (+/-)
 Bubbling/ Wrinkle
 Fusing Marks
In this, bond strength is checked four times a day across the line.

Re-cutting or Trimming:
 Re-cutting:
Re-cutting is the process of cutting the panel in which any defect is found, using the same fabric
roll end bit and pattern.
 Trimming:
If there is any issue with cutting, i.e., cutter do not cut the panel correctly due to blunt knife or
power failure, trimming of cut panel is done. If trimming is required for more than 10 pieces,
band knife is used else scissor is used to trim the excess pattern.

Standard Operation Procedure of Re-cutting:

Inspection

Panel not correct

Pattern Issue

Fabric End Bit Issue

(Same Lot)

Pattern trace on fabric,

manually

Panel Cut manually,

using scissor
RELAYING

 Parts which are cut as bigger blocks in pinning are brought here and matched against each other
to make sure that the plaid matching is achieved. The plaid matching is essential for standard
features of any stripe/ checks garment.
 As in pinning, there will be underneath needle which are set at the desired position and the
parts can be adjusted as per the plaid repeat requirement. After the requirement parts are
matched, they are tied together by means of knotting.
 Then ready patterns are placed over the bulk plies and bound by means of end clips. Care should
be taken here to make sure that the grain line remains the same while placing the ready
patterns.
 After this, the parts are taken for band knife cutting on band knife machine.
o Band knife machine essentially consists of a revolving knife placed on pulleys run by
motor.
o Hand gloves are mandatory while operating this machine. The bigger blocks are
trimmed at ends / edge to bring the parts to the required dimensions.
o Notches as required are also marked on the pattern using this machine.

Fusing:

 Fusing is the process of fixing a fusible interlining to the outer fabric by application of heat &
pressure.

 In this process the interlining and outer fabric composite is heated up to a specific temperature,
as recommended by the manufacturer.

 After few seconds when the adhesive becomes plastic, then it is forced inside the fabric texture
by using pressure.

 After fusing is complete, the composite has to be gradually cooled down to convert the plastic
adhesive into its original solid state to form a strong bond.

Properties of Fusing:

 Control and stabilization of critical areas.

 Adding strength to the fabric at critical areas.
 Reinforcement of specific design features.
 Minimum of modification to the “handle” of the top cloth.
 Preservation of a crisp and fresh look.

Fusing Functioning:

 Machine Name:- Weishi Fusing Machine (Continuous fusing machine)

 SAM for 1 garment Fusing= 326.1 sec
 Total number of operator= 8
 Pitch Time = SAM/ Number of Operator
= 40.76 sec
 Back Lapel
((7) OUT (8)
(Body, NR, Parts (Body, NR)
Fusing)
(1:1)
(1:3:2)

Small Parts
(6) (1)
(Collar, Neck, Bone, Side
panel, NR, Parts fusing) Front Panel fusing
(2)
(Body, NR, Parts, white Fusing)
Top Sleeve (5)
(1:7:1:1) (Usage in ratio)
(Body, Parts Fusing) (3)
(1:4)

(4) In sleeve (Parts Fusing) IN

 Capacity = 70 Garments parts fusing per hour.

 Parameters for Fusing:

o Temperature
o Pressure
o Time

Standard Observe
Temperature 155 degree Celsius 153 degree Celsius
Pressure 40 PSI 41 PSI
Time 18 18

These parameters change according to the fabric type and fabric fiber composition.

Types of Fusing Used:

1. Knitted – Body Fusing

2. NR Fusing (Non Rubber or Reinforcement Fusing) – Lapel, Small Parts
3. Non-Woven Fusing- Parts Fusing (Small Parts)
4. White Fusing- (Front Shoulder)
Bundling:
Bundling is the process of grouping different panels of a garment together.

 The panels are grouped together and kept in a trolley to issue for sewing.
 The panels are arranged according to numbers assigned to each part. The same garment has the
same number and arranged according to that.

Problems in Cutting Section:

1. Roll allocation is not done properly. Same rolls are allotted to different line.
2. Counting of spread lays is time taking.
3. Proper marker length is not cut in spreading.
4. Shade variation details are not there in the roll, so it is very difficult to find the exact same shade
roll.
5. There are 4 automatic cutters for 7 lines, many times the idle time of automatic cutter increases
due to maintenance, cutting setting, lay adjustment, origin setting, etc. Due to this, more layers
can’t be spread.
6. Roll finding and fabric requisition is very time taking.
Jacket Parts:

Fabric Type Parts Name Cut Parts

Front 2
Back 2
Side Panel 2
Front Facing 2
Top Sleeve 2
Under Sleeve 2
Shell Fabric
Breast Pocket 1
Breast Pocket Facing 1
Top Collar 1
Collar Band 1
Front Pocket Bone 2
Front Pocket Flap 2
Chest Felt 2
Chest Canvas 2
Small Chest Canvas 2
Patti 2
Canvas and Felt
Big Chest Canvas 2
Sleeve Head Canvas 4
Small Head Canvas 4
Sleeve Head Felt 2
Back 2
Front 2
Side Panel 2
Top Sleeve 2
Under Sleeve 2
Welt Pocket 2
Front Arm Tape 2
Pocket Flap Lining 2
Lining
Triangular Flap 1
Cigarette Pocket Lining 1
Cigarette Pocket Bone 1
Cigarette Pocket Face 1
In Pocket Facing 2
In Pocket Bone 2
Pocket Face 2
Sweat Shield 4
Knitted Fusing (Body Fusing) 5
Fusing Parts Fusing 14
NR Fusing 3
Total 92
SEWING DEPARTMENT

7.1. JACKET SEWING

Silver spark consists of 7 Jacket lines, lines which is managed by their production executives and IE’s.

Major buyers of Raymond are Pearless, Pelle Strom, Express, JCP, Hagger, Pellestrom

Jacket line consists of:

1. Front section
2. a. Lining section
b. Sleeve section
c. Collar Section
d. Chest Canvas and sleeve Head Roll Section

3. Assembly section 1

4. Assembly Section 2

The sewing SAM for a jacket is approx. 65-70 min, Jacket, trouser and vest coat line follows the UPS
system of production. The material moves on controlled overhead hangers.

Some points:

1. 5 S:
a. Seiri (Sort)
b. Sheiton (Set in Order)
c. Seiso (Sanitation or cleanliness)
d. Seiketsu (Standardize)
e. Shitsuke (Sustain)
2. Multi Skill board: [Efficiency, Skill Level, Skill Index]
 Operator knows more than four (4) operations  Green circle
 Operator knows less than four (4) operations  red circle
3. TLS (Traffic light system):

It is consist of defects code, Data, hours

Colors used

a. Green: no defects,
b. Yellow: For one (1) defects,
c. Red : More than one (1) defects,

4. Red Flag: Red flag is used where there is a critical operation in the assembly flow.
5. Process sheet: It is also known as “job breakdown sheet”, in this sheet how a job done by the
operator in the operation is written.
6. My machine my area: It means that every operator must keep their working place area clean
and maintained properly.
7. Kaizen: Kaizen is a Japanese term which means “Continuous Improvement”. Kaizen means “No
defects”, there is always an improvement. It also refers to discipline.
8. Preventive Maintenance: To prevent the machine from breakdown by keeping a regular check
of it parts.
9. Autonomous Maintenance: Provide operator more responsibility and allow them to carry out
Preventive Maintenance task.
10. Predictive maintenance: It refers to, A routine checkup of the machine.
11. What is 3D:
a. Don’t take defects
b. Don’t make defects
c. Don’t pass defects.
12. Critical operation: The operation which if stops, the whole line will stop due to no feeding. The
operations which can only be done by the highly skilled operators are known as critical
operations.
13. VSM: refers, Value Stream Mapping, It creates a material/information flow map of a product/
process.
14. SLA: Refers, Service level agreement
1. Customer requirements
2. Supplier Demand
 15. Standard WIP: Every manufacturing unit kept an optimal WIP (Work in progress), to flow of
operation without any bottleneck.
The standard WIP for jacket line is 354 pcs.
As 118 operations are there per line,
So, 118 x 3 pcs = 354 pcs (Standard WIP set for a line)
16. PCA: Process confirmation audit (Obtain desired result with sustainability)
17. PFM: Product family matrix,
It is also called as Universal Layout. PFM is the study of all the possible style and to group them
into one group to design a layout, in which any style can be made.
It is a standard layout set so that any possible style can be run on that layout.

Finishing:

PRESSING PARAMETERS:

 TIME
Fabric Type Time
100% Wool 12 s

Poly Viscose 14 s

100% Polyester 20 s

Wool Silk 18 s

100% Cotton 20 s

Lamb Wool 22 s

100% Linen 26 s

 The STEAM and VACUUM are pre-programmed into the machines while the incoming steam
from the boiler is 5 kg.
 AIR PRESSURE is 4 kg at an average while it also varies from 4.5 to 6 depending on the fabric
requirements.
 For 100% Wool fabric it requires to have reduced steam while the Vacuum is high while 100%
cotton requires high steam and minimized Vacuum.