Apparel Standards

Specification and Quality

Control
Quality Control Processes in Nainas Apparel Pvt. Ltd.
and summary of Esprit Buyer’s Manual

Submitted to: Ms. Aboli Naik

Submitted by: Amandeep Singh
Rakshit Shankar
Rishi Raj
Sanvritti Rana
Srishti Gupta
 Naina’s Apparel Pvt. Ltd.

Naina's Apparel Pvt. Ltd. is an organization which was incepted in 1994. It has been
in the garment manufacturing field, specializing in creating beautiful, delicate hand
embroidery. Besides embroideries, the company also manufactures garments
using the latest print techniques and garment washes. This is done on both Indian
and imported fabrics, such as chiffon, tulle, organza, lycra, silk and various other
stretch knits. After its initial success in the field of textiles, high-fashion garments
were the natural avenue to progress to. This segment of the company began in
1995 and has seen tremendous success. In 2005, the company has branched out
into the Home Décor business under its sister concern, Nasha Designs India Pvt.
Ltd.

Manufacturing and export business

In the textiles division, they manufacture products for high profile designer labels
like Armani, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta, Vera-Wang and many others where the
most intricate embroideries are done.

In the apparel division, Naina’s Apparel manufactures products for big production
houses such as Esprit, Replay, Paul&Joe, Versace, Galliano, CNC and many others.

Today the company has a strong global presence, and exports to Italy, France,
Germany, Netherlands, Spain, U.K and the USA.

Production

They have a production capacity of around 1200-1400 pieces per day with an 8
hour shift for all workers.

Inspection Procedures

1. Fabric Inspection
They carry out 100% fabric inspection. This is done in two ways:
  by placing the fabric on the slanted inspection table with lights on
behind the table and locating the defects and placing a sticker on them
 by laying the fabric on a flat table in multiple rows and allotting two
people to identify and mark the defects with a sticker.

They did not follow the Four Point or Ten Point inspection system and the basis for
rejection of the fabric was purely circumstantial. They rejected the fabrics which
had more than 2 major defects in any layer. All the defects were noted down in a
register which mentioned the lot and roll from which the fabric was taken.

2. Trims inspection
The inspection of trims is done 100% for any visible defects while it is sent
over to a third party to test for other characteristics such as Azo content.

3. Inspection in the Cutting Room

The inspection in the cutting room was also 100% where two employees
were appointed at each table to check each and every bundle and then sort
and ticket them for the cutting department. They were using a straight knife
for most of the cutting procedures.

4. Inspection after Embroidery

They have an embroidery machine which they use to either make small
motifs on the garments or to create a design of some sort on the garment.
The accuracy of the machine is very high but still all the garments are
inspected under a supervisor after the embroidery has been done.

5. Inspection during Stitching

In the stitching department they had 4 rows of 10 machines each producing
the garment at the end of the line. The entire stitching department was
overseen by a stitching master who was responsible for the overall quality in
the stitching department and to help the employees during stitching. The
inspection was done inline and end line. Inline inspection was done during
 the attachment of the collar and sleeve to the main body of the garment. The
final inspection of the stitching department was being carried out on four
independent tables where each worker examined the garments with extra
care and used white petroleum guns and bottles to remove the stains on the
garments. They also followed what they called pre-final inspection and final
inspection. In the pre-final inspection, once 75% of the total order quantity
had been manufactured they pick out around 10-12 garments and check for
the quality while in the final inspection around 20-25 garments were
examined once the total order had been stitched.

6. Inspection during Folding and Packaging

Ironing and folding was done on the same table. There were 14 steam
ironing tables connected to a single boiler with one worker at each table.
Once the ironing is done, each worker measures the garments to check
whether the size is accurate according to the label attached. The workers are
provided with a plastic scale which has the measurements for the points
which determine the size of the garment. Once all the measurements have
been checked, the garments are folded and packed and sealed.

Out of 244 garments 32 garments were inspected for which 5 major or 7 minor
defects results in rejection of the entire batch.

For 1.5 AQL a small stain, missing embroidery, 1 cm hanging stitching thread, and
seam slippage are all considered as major defects.

Sampling

1. Proto Sample
 Mandatory
 Sample requested by design department or buying after the concept
meeting.
 Garment is developed on the basis of the fabric concept sheet,
measurement sheet, master size and block pattern.
  Garment must use the intended fabric.
 Color should be requested or closest available.
 All accessories and components to be as requested.
 Copy of standard physical test report from product development. Test
report sent to buying for evaluation and technician for archive.
 Garments are returned or comments are provided by the technician to
esprit liaison office, agents or direct supplier with fit components.
2. Quotation Sample
 Sample requested by buyer
 Can be parallel to proto sample
 An existing style, which is requested for further price, supplier or fabric
options.
 Therefore, these samples are requested for cross costing, and retained.
 Sample cards with comments on garment characteristics to be attached
to samples.
 Copy of standard physical test report from product development. Test
report sent to buying for evaluation and technician for archive.

3. Salesman’s Sample
 These are showroom samples for worldwide sales that illustrate
required appearance, fir, color, design, fabric and construction details.
 Ordered in accordance with the sample distribution list from sourcing
merchandiser, quantity, size
 Only once this has been approved that Esprit will pay for the garment
and delivery cost.
 The fabric should be as close to the one to be used in the production.
 Be alert to issues from late color changes.
 Test results have to be confirmed by a local fabric specialist.
 4. Fit Approval Sample
 When this is approved by the technician for fit and appearance, they
will be signed and tagged as the red seals by the technician and then
that becomes the production standard.
 Components need to be attached to each FAS as red seal sample.
 It should have the care label information.
5. Pre-Production Samples
 A limited quantity made from bulk fabric and from the first bulk
production.
 Esprit visiting supplier QC to agree and countersign this quality
inspection.
6. Shipment Sample
 Master size garments taken from manufacturer’s final inspection bulk
production that confirms the manufacturer’s minimum quality standard
of bulk shipment in all respects including labeling, packaging and
garment testing.
 AQL measurement check, original bulk fabric test report from
accredited laboratory and full AQL report to be included with this
mandatory bulk shipment documents.
 Two shipment samples have yellow hang tags for identification signed
by manufacturer and supplier agreed after AQL inspection pass.
 Supplier has to ensure that the hang tags are firmly fixed.

Zones

During our visit they were manufacturing ladies top which were divided into two
zones, Zone A and Zone B. Zone A was the front part of the top including the front
areas of the sleeves but excluding the area below the navel point. The remaining
part of the garment was sectioned into Zone B.
AQL

The AQL that they follow are 1.5 and 2.5.

Seconds Policy

The garments that are categorized as seconds are sold off with their own label
after removing the tag of the respective brands.

Buyers manual of Esprit

Esprit is an international fashion brand that has been in the market since 1968. It
was founded in San Francisco by Susie and Doug Tompkins.

Workmanship

The following checklist needs to be considered by manufacturers to achieve

quality garments.

1. Pattern
Ensure that the material shrinkage and the seam allowance are included in
the original pattern. The shrinkage must be tested at the highest
temperature which is used for steaming and ironing. Garment wash or
enzyme wash articles have to be tested at 80 degree Celsius.

2. Cutting
Defected pieces that can lead to bad appearance must be sorted out. Stretch
fabrics need to be relaxed overnight before cutting. Do not use more than 10
layers of elastic fabric for cutting. Otherwise use one paper layer to disable
the layers to slip.

3. Stitching
Minimum 1 cm seam allowance for press open seams, 0.7 cm seam
allowance for closed seams in woven fabrics and 0.5 cm seam allowance for
closed seams in knitted fabrics.
 4. Fastening
All accessories must be color fast, rustproof and should have smooth edges
and should be attached securely. Buttonholes and buttons must be secured
properly with sufficient density without fraying and loose ends.

5. Lining
Lining should always match the color and the attachment must be correct
and strong. Fusible interlining should not show bubbles effects after washing
or dry cleaning. For padding jackets, use interlining to prevent fiber or down
penetration through shell fabric.
6. Threads
All threads must be color fast and match with the shell fabric in all terms of
strength, elasticity, heat fastness and shrinkage.

Information Related To Defects

The company focuses on the following points:

1. Fabric Defects
 Slub/knot/snag
 Mispick/double pick or end
 Color contamination
 Shading
 Fabric performance
 Fabric hole
 Fabric run
 Yarn contamination
 Yellowing of fabric
 Miscellaneous fabric defects
2. Construction And Stitching Defects
 Broken/ drop/skip stitch
 Raw edge/frayed seam
 Open/ delaminated seam
 Overrun stitch
 Uneven/wavy stitching
 Puckering/pleating
 Twisted/roping/uneven hem
 Construction not as specified
 Miscellaneous construction defects
3. Trims Defects
 Trim broken/inoperable/insecure
 Trim not as specified
 Trim bleeding/ colour migration
 Miscellaneous trim defects

4. Embellishment Defects
 Unravelling embellishment
 Peeling / delamination
 Poor coverage / registeration / cracking
 Improper backing removal
 Hoop / plate / screen mark
 Embellishment not as specified
 Emb bleeding / color migrartion
 Miscellaneous embellishment defect

5. Labeling Defects
 Missing / incorrect / incomplete label
 Peeling / cracking
 Color bleeding / migration / shading
  Miscellaneous labeling defect

6. Cleanliness/Appearance
 Soil
 Unattached / untrimmed thread
 Foreign objects / inspection stickers
 Pressing / heat defects
 Miscellaneous cleanliness defects

7. Pakaging Defects
 Product in carton incorrect
 Polybag not as specified
 Stickers / hangtags / carton labels
 Miscellaneous packaging defects

8. Washing Defects (Woven)

 Brushing / spray effect / moustaches
 Grinding / ripping(uneven / missing / incorrect)
 Sand blast(uneven / missing / incorrect)
 Improper selvage
 Washing not as specified
 Miscellaneous washing defects

Inspection Process that needs to be followed for Esprit

1. Initial Inspection:
The initial inspection must be carried out after a production of approximately
150600 pieces covering all/jumping sizes and colours (when possible). For
orders < 3000 pcs it can be 5-50 pieces.
 2. Inline Inspection:
The first inline inspection should preferably be carried out by
QC/Independent QC immediately or very soon after the initial inspection.

3. Final Inspection:
AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling plan, level 2, must be conducted
for Final inspections

Packaging Inspection

 Carton labels are compared with carton contents. Whatever is mentioned on

the carton should be inside carton.
 Embellishment along with other packing accessories is checked while
checking carton contents accuracy.
 Hangtag & UPC is checked for correct style, correct color, and polybag
orientation etc.
 Packing Assortment / Ratio.
 Polybag size, polybag print, ventilation holes etc.
 Garments fold size.
 Packing accessories are checked e.g. Hangtags, Clips, Pins, Tissue Paper etc.
 If required by the customer garments are passed through metal detector
machine.