Evinrude 65hp 300hp 95-2002 PDF

www.manuals-n-more.com.
au
www.manuals-n-more.com.au
General Information
Tools and Techniques
Troubleshooting
Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-Up
Engine Synchronization and Linkage Adjustment
Ignition and Electrical Systems
Lower Gearcase and Jeft Drive Units
Trim and Tilt Systems
Oil Injection Systems
Remote Controls
Supplement (1 997-2002 Ficht Fuel Injection Service Information)
Index
Wiring Diagrams
Email: sales@manuals-n-more.com.au
Contents
CHAPTER ONE
GENERALINFORMATION ................................................
Manual organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Lubricants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Notes. cautions and warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Protection from galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
CHAPTER TWO
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES ............................................... 21
Safetyfirst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Service hints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Basic hand tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 Special tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Mechanic's techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
CHAPTER THREE
TROUBLESHOOTING ................................................... 3
Service precautions-1998 model year engines . . . . . . 34 CD4 ignition system troubleshooting
Safety precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 (1 30 hp V4 loop charged models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Operating requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 OIS2000 ignition system troubleshooting
Test and repair equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 (60" V4 and V6 [loop-charged] models) . . . . . . . . . . 93
Wiring harnesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 CD6 ignition system troubleshooting
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 (200 and 225 hp) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Battery charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 CD8 ignition system troubleshooting
Electrical accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 (250 and 300 hp V8 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Warning systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Key and neutral start switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) troubleshooting . . . 75 Engine temperature and overheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
CD4 ignition system troubleshooting Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
(V4 cross flow models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
CHAPTER FOUR
LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
..............................
..............................
Engine flushing
148
157
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Power steering belt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Complete submersion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Anticorrosion maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
CHAPTER FIVE
ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
Engine timing and synchronization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
....................
130hp(1995) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
168
Required equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 130 hp (1996) and 200.225. 250
65 jet. 80 jet (1995-1997) and 85- 115 hp and 300 hp (1995 and 1996) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
(90" V4 cross flow models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 130.200. 225and250hp(1997and 1998) . . . . . . . . 185
80 jet (1998). 105 jet. 90.115. 150 and 175 hp
(60" V4 and V6 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
CHAPTER SIX
FUELSYSTEM ....................................................... 190
Fuelpump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Vacuum switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Carburetors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Fuel module and vapor separator
Top feed carburetor (V4 cross flow models) . . . . . . . . 201 (60" V4 and V6 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Minlon carburetors Antisiphon devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
(V4 and V6 loop charged models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Fueltank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Electric fuel primer pump (V8 models) . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Fuel line and primer bulb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Electric fuel primer solenoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14
CHAPTER SEVEN
IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
Service precautions-1998 model year engines . . . . .
.....................................
221 ..............................
Ignition systems
221
256
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 CD4 ignition (90" V4 cross-flow models) . . . . . . . . . 256
Battery charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 OIS2000 ignition system (60" V4 and V6 models) . . . 260
Fuse or circuit breaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 CD4, CD6 and CD8 ignition
Electric starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 (90" V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged models) . . . . . . . 264
Neutral safety switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Electrical connector service. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Flywheel service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
CHAPTER EIGHT
POWERHEAD .......................................................
Service considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
...................................
278
278
Flywheel 284
EvinrudeIJohnson model identification . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Power head removal/installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Power head break-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 1 Power head disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
Service precautions-1 998 model year engines . . . . . 28 1 Power head cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
Service recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 1 Power head assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Lubricants. sealants and adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Reedvalves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
Sealing surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Thermostats and water blow-off valve . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
Fasteners and torque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
CHAPTER NINE
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIVE
Gearcase identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
.................................... 378
..................
Gearcase removal/installation 387
Gearcase operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .379 Water pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394
Gear ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 . Gearcase disassembly/reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397
High altitude operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 Gearcase cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
Counter-rotation gearcases Gearcase pressure and vacuum tests . . . . . . . . . . . . .444
(twin engine applications) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 1 Pinion gear shimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .445
Service precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Shift shaft height adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448
Corrision control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .383 Jet drive models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448
Gearcase lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Jet pump unit adjustments and maintenance. . . . . . .449
Nuetral start adjustment (tiller handle models). . . . . 385 Jet pump unit service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .455
Shift lever detent adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385 Drive shaft and bearing housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .457
Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Water intake housing liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462
Trimtabadjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386
CHAPTER TEN
TRIM AND TILT SYSTEMS ...........................................465
Manual tilt-assist cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Power trim and tilt system
Power trim and tilt systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468 (electrical troubleshooting). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
Power trim and tilt hydraulic troubleshooting . . . . . 478 Electric motor testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .501
Power trim and tilt system service . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508
CHAPTER ELEVEN
OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS
VR02 oil injection (all models except
...........................................530
(99.90. 112 and 115 special models) . . . . . . . . . . 531
CHAPTER TWELVE
REMOTECONTROLS ..............................................554
SUPPLEMENT
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION (FFI) SERIVCE INFORMATION
Electronic component replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
...........566
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .601
Ficht system operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .569 Fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .609
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588 Oil delivery system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .623
Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .590
INDEX ..........................................................686
Chapter One
General Information
This detailed, comprehensive manual contains com- MANUAL ORGANIZATION

plete information covering maintenance, repair and
overhaul. Hundreds of photos and drawings guide you This chapter provides general information useful to
throughout every procedure. boat owners and marine mechanics.
Troubleshooting, tune-up, maintenance and repair Chapter Two discusses the tools and techniques for
are not difficult if you know what tools and equipment preventative maintenance, troubleshooting and repair.
to use and what to do. Anyone not afraid to get their Chapter Three provides troubleshooting and testing
hands dirty, of average intelligence and with some me- procedures for all systems and individual components.
chanical ability can perform most of the procedures in Following chapters describe specific systems, pro-
this manual. See Chapter Two for more information on viding disassembly, inspection, assembly and adjust-
tools and techniques. ment procedures in simple step-by-step form. Specifi-
A shop manual is a reference. You want to be able to cations concerning a specific system are included at the
find information quickly. Clymer books are designed end of the appropriate chapter.
with you in mind. All chapters are thumb tabbed and
important items are indexed at the end of the manual. NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
All procedures, tables, photos and instructions in this
manual assume the reader may be working on the ma- The terms NOTE, CAUTION and WARNING have
chine or using the manual for the first time. specific meanings in this manual. ANOTE provides ad-
Keep the manual in a handy place in your toolbox or ditional information to make a step or procedure easier
boat. It will help you to better understand how your boat or more clear. Disregarding a NOTE could cause incon-
1
runs, lower repair and maintenance costs and generally venience, but would not cause damage or personal in-
increase your enjoyment of your boat. jury.
CHAPTER ONE
A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment carefully selected to decrease the possibility ofphysical
damage could cause permanent mechanical damage; failure or corrosion. See Galvanic Corrosion in this
however, personal injury is unlikely. chapter for information on marine materials.
A WARNING emphasizes areas where personal in- Nuts, bolts and screws are manufactured in a wide
jury or even death could result from negligence. Me- range of thread patterns. To join a nut and bolt, the di-
chanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS must be ameter of the bolt and the diameter of the hole in the nut
taken seriously. In some cases, serious injury or death must be the same. It is just as important that the threads
has resulted from disregarding similar warnings. are compatible.
The easiest way to determine if fastener threads are
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS compatible is to turn the nut on the bolt, or bolt into its
threaded opening, using fingers only. Be sure both
Torque specifications throughout this manual are pieces are clean. If much force is required, check the
given in foot-pounds (ft.-lb.), inch-pounds (in.-lb.) and thread condition on each fastener. If the thread condi-
newton meters (Nom.). Newton meters are being tion is good but the fasteners jam, the threads are not
adopted in place of meter-kilograms (mkg) in accor- compatible.
dance with the International Modernized Metric Sys- Four important specifications describe the thread:
tem. Existing torque wrenches calibrated in 1. Diameter.
meter-kilograms can be used by performing a simple 2. Threads per inch.
conversion: move the decimal point one place to the 3. Thread pattern.
right. For example, 4.7 mkg = 47 N-m. This conversion 4. Thread direction
is accurate enough for most mechanical operations Figure 3 shows the first two specifications. Thread
even though the exact mathematical conversion is 3.5 pattern is more subtle. Italian and British standards ex-
mkg = 34.3 N-m. ist, but the most commonly used by marine equipment
manufactures are American standard and metric stan-
ENGINE OPERATION dard. The root and top of the thread are cut differently
as shown in Figure 4.
All marine engines, whether two or four-stroke, gaso- Most threads are cut so that the fastener must be
line or diesel, operate on the Otto cycle of intake, com- turned clockwise to tighten it. These are called
pression, power and exhaust phases. right-hand threads. Some fasteners have left-hand ,
threads; they must be turned counterclockwise to
tighten. Left-hand threads are used in locations where
~
Two-Stroke Cycle
normal rotation of the equipment would tend to loosen a
A two-stroke engine requires one crankshaft revolu- right-hand threaded fastener. Assume all fasteners use !
tion (two strokes of the piston) to complete the Otto cy- right-hand threads unless the instructions specify other- ~
i
cle. All engines covered in this manual are a two-stroke wise. I
design. Figure 1 shows gasoline two-stroke engine op-

eration. Machine Screws
Four-Stroke Cycle There are many different types of machine screws

(Figure 5). Most are designed to protrude above the se-
A four-stroke engine requires two crankshaft revolu- cured surface (rounded head) or be slightly recessed be-
tions (four strokes of the piston) to complete the Otto low the surface (flat head). In some applications the
cycle. Figure 2 shows gasoline four-stroke engine op- screw head is recessed well below the fastened surface.
eration. Figure 6 shows a number of screw heads requiring dif-
ferent types of turning tools.
FASTENERS
Bolts I
The material and design of the various fasteners used
on marine equipment are carefully thought out and de- Commonly called bolts, the technical name for this
signed. Fastener design determines the type of tool re-
I
quired to work with the fastener. Fastener material is
fastener is cap screw. They are normally described by
diameter, threads per inch and length. For example, ~
GENERAL INFORMATION 3
TWO-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES
As the piston travels down-

ward, it uncovers the exhaust While the crankshaft contin-
port (A) allowing the exhaust ues to rotate, the piston
gases to leave the cylinder. A moves upward, covering the
fresh air-fuel charge, which transfer (6)and exhaust (A)
has been compressed slightly ports. The piston compresses
in the crankcase, enters the the new air-fuel mixture and
cylinder through the transfer creates a low-pressurearea in
port (B). Since this charge en- the crankcase at the same time.
ters under pressure, it also As the piston continues to
helps to push out the exhaust travel, it uncovers the intake
gases. port (C). A fresh air-fuel
As the piston almost reaches

the top of the travel, the spark
plug fires, igniting the com-
pressed air-fuel mixture. The
piston continues to top dead
center (TDC) and is pushed
downward by the expanding
As the piston travels down,
gases.
the exhaust gases leave the
cylinder and the complete cy-
cle starts all over again.
4 CHAPTER ONE
FOUR-STROKE GASOLINE OPERATING PRINCIPLES
Intake valve
As the piston travels

downward, the exhaust
valve is closed and the in-
take valve opens, allowing
the new air-fuel mixture
from the carburetor to be While the crankshaft
drawn into the cylinder. continues to rotate, the
When the piston reaches piston moves upward,
the bottom dead center compressing the air-fuel
(BDC), the intake valve
closes and remains closed
for the next 1 112 revolu-
tions of the crankshaft.
As the piston almost

reaches the top of its
travel, the spark plug
fires, igniting the com-
pressed air-fuel mixture. When the piston al-
The piston continues to most reaches BDC, the
top dead center (TDC) exhaust valve opens
and is pushed downward and remains open until
by expanding gases. the piston is near TDC.
The upward travel of
the piston forces the
exhaust gases out of
the cylinder. After the
piston has reached
TDC, the exhaust valve
closes and the cycle
starts all over again.
MACHINE SCREWS
Hex Flat Oval Filister Round
1/4-20 x 1 indicates a bolt 114 in. in diameter with 20 Figure 7 shows several types of nuts. The common
threads per inch, 1 in. long. The measurement across nut is usually used with some type of lockwasher.
two flats of the bolt head indicates the proper wrench Self-locking nuts have a nylon insert that helps pre-
size required to turn the bolt. vent the nut from loosening; no lockwasher is re-
quired. Wing nuts are designed for fast removal by
hand. Wing nuts are used for convenience in
Nuts non-critical locations.
Nuts are manufactured in a variety of types and sizes. To indicate the size of a nut, manufactures specify the
Most are hexagonal (six-sides) and fit on bolts, screws diameter of the opening and the threads per inch. This is
and studs with the same diameter and threads per inch. similar to a bolt specification, but without the length di-
6 CHAPTER ONE
OPENINGS FOR TURNING TOOLS
Slotted Phillips Allen Internal torx External torx
mension. The measurement across two flats of the nut

indicates the wrench size required to turn the nut.
@363
Washers
There are two basic types of washers: flat washers

and lockwashers. A flat washer is a simple disc with a
hole that fits the screw or bolt. Lockwashers are de- Common nut Self-locking nut
signed to prevent a fastener from working loose due to
vibration, expansion and contraction. Figure 8 shows
several types of lockwashers. Note that flat washers are
often used between a lockwasher and a fastener to pro-
vide a smooth bearing surface. This allows the fastener
to be turned easily with a tool.
Cotter Pins
In certain applications, a fastener must be secured so

it cannot possibly loosen. The propeller nut on some
marine drive systems is one such application. For this
and diameters. Measure cotter pin length from the bottom
purpose, a cotter pin (Figure 9) and slotted or castel-
of its head to the tip of its shortest prong.
lated nut is often used. To use a cotter pin, first make
sure the pin fits snugly, but not too tight. Then, align a
slot in the fastener with the hole in the bolt or axle. In- Snap Rings
sert the cotter pin through the nut and bolt or propeller
shaft and bend the ends over to secure the cotter pin Snap rings (Figure 10) can be an internal or external
tightly. If the holes do not align, tighten the nut just design. They are used to retain components on shafts
enough to obtain the proper alignment. Unless specifi- (external type) or inside openings (internal type). Snap
cally instructed to do so, never loosen the fastener to rings can be reused if they are not distorted during re-
align the slot and hole. Because the cotter pin is weak- moval. In some applications, snap rings of varying
ened after installation and removal, never reuse a cotter thickness (selective fit) can be selected to position or
pin. Cotter pins are available in several styles, lengths control end play of parts assemblies.
GENERAL INFORMATION
@@ Plain Folding
Internal snap ring Plain circlip
@ 0 80
Internal tooth External tooth
External snap ring Plain circlip
-
Correct installation
ing paragraphs describe the types of lubricants most of-
ten used on marine equipment. Be sure to follow the
equipment manufacture's recommendations for the lu-
bricant types.
Generally, all liquid lubricants are called oil. They
may be mineral-based (including petroleum bases), nat-
ural-based (vegetable and animal bases), syn-
thetic-based or emulsions (mixtures). Grease is
lubricating oil that has a thickening compound added.
The resulting material then usually enhanced with
anticorrosion, antioxidant and extreme pressure (EP)
additives. Grease is often classified by the type of
thickener added; lithium and calcium soap are the most
commonly used.
Two-stroke Engine Oil
Lubrication for a two-stroke engine is provided by oil

mixed with the incoming airlfuel mixture. Some of the
LUBRICANTS oil mist settles out in the crankcase, lubricating the
crankshaft, bearings and lower end of the connecting
Periodic lubrication helps ensure long service life for rod. The rest of the oil enters the combustion chamber
any type of equipment. It is especially important with to lubricate the piston, rings and the cylinder wall. This
marine equipment because it is exposed to salt, brack- oil is then burned along with the airlfuel mixture during
ish or polluted water and other harsh environments. The the combustion process.
type of lubricant used is just as important as the lubrica- Engine oil must have several special qualities to work
tion service itself, although in an emergency, the wrong well in a two-stroke engine. It must mix easily and stay
type of lubricant is better than none at all. The follow- in suspension in gasoline. When burned, it cannot leave
8 CHAPTER ONE
behind excessive deposits. It must also withstand the GASKET SEALANT

high operating temperature associated with two-stroke
engines. Gasket sealant is used instead of preformed gaskets
The National Marine Manufacturer's Association on some applications, or as a gasket dressing on others.
(NMMA) has set standards for oil used in two-stroke, Three types of gasket sealant are commonly used: gas-
water-cooled engines. This is the NMMA TC-W ket sealing compound, room temperature vulcanizing
(two-cycle, water-cooled) grade. It indicates the oil's (RTV) and anaerobic. Because these materials have dif-
performance in the following areas: ferent sealing properties, they cannot be used inter-
1. Lubrication (preventing wear and scuffing). changeably.
2. Spark plug fouling.
3. Piston ring sticking. Gasket Sealing Compound
4. Preignition.
5. Piston varnish. This nonhardening liquid is used primarily as a gas-
6. General engine condition (including deposits). ket dressing. Gasket sealing compound is available in
7. Exhaust port blockage. tubes or brush top containers. When exposed to air or
8. Rust prevention. heat it forms a rubber-like coating. The coating fills in
small imperfections in gasket and sealing surfaces. Do
9. Mixing ability with gasoline. not use gasket sealing compound that is old, has began
In addition to oil grade, manufactures specify the ra- to solidify or has darkened in color.
tio of gasoline and oil required during break-in and nor-
mal engine operation.
Applying Gasket Sealing Compound
Gearcase Oil
Carefully scrape residual gasket material, corrosion
deposits or paintfrom the mating surfaces. Use a blunt
Gearcase lubricants are assigned SAE viscosity num-
scraper and work carefully to avoid damaging the mat-
bers under the same system as four-stroke engine oil.
ing surfaces. Use quick drying solvent and a clean shop
Gearcase lubricant falls into the SAE 72-250 range.
towel and wipe oil or other contaminants from the sur-
Some gearcase lubricants are multigrade. For example,
faces. Wipe or blow loose material or contaminants
SAE 80-90 is a common multigrade gear lubricant.
from the gasket. Brush a light coating on the mating
Three types of marine gearcase lubricants are gener- surfaces and both sides of the gasket. Do not apply
ally available; SAE 90 hypoid gearcase lubricant is de- more compound than needed. Excess compound will be
signed for older manual-shift units; type C gearcase squeezed out as the surfaces mate and may contaminate
lubricant contains additives designed for the electric other components. Do not allow compound into bolt or
shift mechanisms; high-viscosity gearcase lubricant is alignment pin holes
a heavier oil designed to withstand the shock loads of
high performance engines or units subjected to severe A hydraulic lock can occur as the bolt or pin com-
duty use. Always use the gearcase lubricant specified presses the compound, resulting in incorrect bolt
by the manufacturer. torque.
Grease RTV Sealant
Greases are graded by the National Lubricating This is a silicone gel supplied in tubes. Moisture in
Grease Institute (NLGI). Greases are graded by number the air causes RTV to cure. Always place the cap on the
according to the consistency of the grease. These rat- tube as soon as possible if using RTV. RTV has a shelf
ings range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the life of approximately one year and will not cure prop-
most solid. A typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. erly after the shelf life expires. Check the expiration
2. For specific applications, equipment manufactures date on the tube and keep partially used tubes tightly
may require grease with an additive such as molybde- sealed. RTV can generally fill gaps up to 114 in. (6.3
num disulfide (MOS~). mm) and works well on slightly flexible surfaces.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Applying RTV Sealant GALVANIC CORROSION
A chemical reaction occurs whenever two different

Carefully scrape all residual sealant and paint from types of metal are joined by an electrical conductor and
the mating surfaces. Use a blunt scraper and work care- immersed in an electrolytic solution such as water.
fully to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. The mat- Electrons transfer from one metal to the other through
ing surfaces must be absolutely free of gasket material, the electrolyte and return through the conductor.
sealant, dirt, oil grease or other contamination. Lacquer The hardware on a boat is made of many different
thinner, acetone, isopropyl alcohol or similar solvents types of metal. The boat hull acts as a conductor be-
work well to clean the surfaces. Avoid using solvents tween the metals. Even if the hull is wooden or fiber-
with on oil, wax or petroleum base as they are not com- glass, the slightest film of water (electrolyte) on the hull
patible with RTV compounds. Remove all sealant from provides conductivity. This combination creates a good
bolt or alignment pin holes. environment for electron flow (Figure 11). Unfortu-
Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 0.08-0.12 in. nately, this electron flow results in galvanic corrosion
(2-3 mm) thick. Circle all mounting bolt or alignment of the metal involved, causing one of the metals to be
pin holes unless otherwise specified. Do not allow RTV corroded or eroded away. The amount of electron flow,
sealant into bolt holes or other openings. A hydraulic and therefore the amount of corrosion, depends on sev-
lock can occur as the bolt or pin compresses the sealant, eral factors:
resulting in incorrect bolt torque. Tighten the mounting 1. The types of metal involved.
fasteners within 10 minutes after application. 2. The efficiency of the conductor.
3. The strength of the electrolyte.
Anaerobic Sealant
Metals
This is a gel supplied in tubes. It cures only in the ab- The chemical composition of the metal used in ma-
sence of air, as when squeezed tightly between two marine equipment has a significant effect on the amount
chined mating surfaces. For this reason, it will not spoil and speed of galvanic corrosion. Certain metals are
if the cap is left off the tube. Do not use anaerobic seal- more resistant to corrosion than others. These electri-
ant if one of the surfaces is flexible. Anaerobic sealant cally negative metals are commonly called noble; they
is able to fill gaps up to 0.030 in. (0.8 mm) and gener- act as the cathode in any reaction. Metals that are more
ally works best on rigid, machined flanges or surfaces. subject to corrosion are electrically positive; they act as
the anode in a reaction. The more noble metals include
titanium, 18-8 stainless steel and nickel. Less noble
Applying Anaerobic Sealant metals include zinc, aluminum and magnesium. Gal-
vanic corrosion becomes more severe as the difference
Carefully scrape all residual sealant from the mating in electrical potential between the two metals increases.
surfaces. Use a blunt scraper and work carefully to In some cases, galvanic corrosion can occur within a
avoid damaging the mating surfaces. The mating sur- single piece of metal. For example, brass is a mixture of
faces must be absolutely free of gasket material, seal- zinc and copper, and, when immersed in an electrolyte,
ant, dirt, oil grease or other contamination. Lacquer the zinc portion of the mixture will corrode away as a
thinner, acetone, isopropyl alcohol or similar solvents galvanic reaction occurs between the zinc and copper
work well to clean the surfaces. Avoid using solvents particles.
with on oil, wax or petroleum base as they are not com-
patible with anaerobic compounds. Clean a sealant Conductors
from the bolt or alignment pin holes. Apply anaerobic
sealant in a 0.04 in. (1 mm) thick continuous bead onto The hull of the boat often acts as the conductor be-
one of the surfaces. Circle all bolt and alignment pin tween different types of metal. Marine equipment, such
opening. Do not apply sealant into bolt holes or other as the drive unit can act as the conductor. Large masses
openings. A hydraulic lock can occur as the bolt or pin of metal, firmly connected together, are more efficient
compresses the sealant, resulting in incorrect bolt conductors than water. Rubber mountings and vi-
torque. Tighten the mounting fasteners within 10 min- nyl-based paint can act as insulators between pieces of
utes after application. metal.
10 CHAPTER ONE
Electrolyte Slowing Corrosion
Some simple precautions can help reduce the amount

The water in which a boat operates acts as the electro-
of corrosion taking place outside the hull. These pre-
lyte for the corrosion process. The more efficient a con-
cautions are not substitutes for the corrosion protection
ductor is, the more severe and rapid the corrosion will
methods discussed under Sacrificial Anodes and Im-
be.
pressed Current Systems in this chapter, but they can
Cold, clean freshwater is the poorest electrolyte. Pol- help these methods reduce corrosion.
lutants increase conductivity; therefore, brackish or Use fasteners made of metal more noble than the
saltwater is an efficient electrolyte. This is one of the parts they secure. If corrosion occurs, the parts they se-
reasons that most manufacturers recommend a freshwa- cure may suffer but the fasteners are protected. The
ter flush after operating in polluted, brackish or saltwa- larger secured parts are more able to withstand the loss
ter. of material. Also major problems could arise if the fas-
teners corrode to the point of failure.
Keep all painted surfaces in good condition. If paint
Protection From Galvanic Corrosion is scraped off and bare metal exposed, corrosion rapidly
increases. Use a vinyl- or plastic-based paint, which
Because of the environment in which marine equip- acts as an electrical insulator.
ment must operate, it is practically impossible to totally Be careful when applying metal-based antifouling
prevent galvanic corrosion. However, there are several paint to the boat. Do not apply antifouling paint to metal
ways in which the process can be slowed. After taking parts of the boat or the drive unit. If applied to metal
these precautions, the next step is to fool the process surfaces, this type of paint reacts with the metal and re-
into occurring only where you want it to occur. This is sults in corrosion between the metal and the layer of
the role of sacrificial anodes and impressed current sys- paint. Maintain a minimum 1 in. (25 mm) border be-
tems. tween the painted surface and any metal parts. Or-
GENERAL INFORMATION
ganic-based paints are available for use on metal This rule is valid for a boat at rest. If underway, addi-
surfaces. tional anode area is required to protect the same surface
Where a corrosion protection device is used, remem- area.
ber that it must be immersed in the electrolyte along The anode must be in good electrical contact with the
with the boat to provide any protection. If you raise the metal that it protects. If possible, attach an anode to all
gearcase out of the water with the boat docked, any an- metal surfaces requiring protection.
* odes on the gearcase may be removed from the corro- Good quality anodes have inserts around the fastener
sion process rendering them ineffective. Never paint or holes that are made of a more noble material. Other-
apply any coating to anodes or other protection devices. wise, the anode could erode away around the fastener
Paint or other coatings insulate them from the corrosion hole, allowing the anode to loosen or possibly fall off,
process. thereby loosing needed protection.
Any change in the boat's equipment, such as the in-
stallation of a new stainless steel propeller, changes the Impressed Current System
electrical potential and may cause increased corrosion.
Always consider this when adding equipment or chang- An impressed current system can be added to any
ing exposed materials. Install additional anodes or boat. The system generally consists of the anode, con-
other protection equipment as required ensuring the troller and reference electrode. The anode in this sys-
corrosion protection system is up to the task. The ex- tem is coated with a very noble metal, such as platinum,
pense to repair corrosion damage usually far exceeds so that it is almost corrosion-free and can last almost in-
that of additional corrosion protection. definitely. The reference electrode, under the boat's
waterline, allows the control module to monitor the po-
tential for corrosion. If the module senses that corro-
Sacrificial Anodes
sion is occurring, it applies positive battery voltage to
the anode. Current then flows from the anode to all
Sacrificial anodes are specially designed to do noth- other metal component, regardless of how noble or
ing but corrode. Properly fastening such pieces to the non-noble these components may be. Essentially, the
boat causes them to act as the anode in any galvanic re-
electrical current from the battery counteracts the gal-
action that occurs; any other metal in the reaction acts vanic reaction to dramatically reduce corrosion dam-
as the cathode and is not damaged. age.
Anodes are usually made or zinc, a far from a noble Only a small amount of current is needed to counter-
material. Some anodes are manufactured of an alumi- act corrosion. Using input from the sensor, the control
num and indium alloy. This alloy is less noble than the module provides only the amount of current needed to
aluminum alloy in drive system components, providing suppress galvanic corrosion. Most systems consume a
the desired sacrificial properties. The aluminum and in- maximum of 0.2 Ah at full demand. Under normal con-
dium alloy is more resistant to oxide coating than zinc ditions, these systems can provide protection for 8-12
anodes. Oxide coating occurs as the anode material re- weeks without recharging the battery. Remember that
acts with oxygen in the water. An oxide coating will in- this system must have constant connection to the bat-
sulate the anode, dramatically reducing corrosion tery. Often the battery supply to the system is connected
protection. to a battery switching device causing the operator to in-
Anodes must be used properly to be effective. Simply advertently shut off the system while docked.
fastening anodes to the boat in random locations will An impressed current system is more expensive to in-
not do the job. stall than sacrificial anodes but, considering its low
First determine how much anode surface is required maintenance requirements and the superior protection
to adequately protect the equipment's surface area. A it provides, the long term cost may be lower.
good starting point is provided by the Military Specifi-
cation MIL-A-8 18001, which states that one square
inch of new anode protects either: PROPELLERS
1. 800 square inches of freshly painted steel. The propeller is the final link between the boat's
2. 250 square inches of bare steel or bare aluminum al- drive system and the water. A perfectly maintained en-
loy. gine and hull are useless if the propeller is the wrong
3. 100 square inches of copper or copper alloy. type, is damaged or is deteriorated. Although propeller
CHAPTER ONE
selection for a specific application is beyond the scope

of this manual, the following provides the basic infor-
mation needed to make an informed decision. The pro-
fessional at a reputable marine dealership is the best
source for a propeller recommendation.
How a Propeller Works
As the curved blades of a propeller rotate through the

water, a high-pressure area forms on one side of the
blade and a low-pressure area forms on the other side of
the blade (Figure 12). The propeller moves toward the
low-pressure area, carrying the boat with it.
Propeller Parts
Although a propeller is usually a one-piece unit, it is

made of several different parts (Figure 13). Variations
in the design of these parts make different propellers
suitable for different applications.
The blade tip is the point of the blade furthest from
the center of the propeller hub or propeller shaft bore.
The blade tip separates the leading edge from the trail- Propeller Design
ing edge.
The leading edge is the edge of the blade nearest the Changes in length, angle, thickness and material of
boat. During forward operation, this is the area of the propeller parts make different propellers suitable for
blade that first cuts through the water. different applications.
The trailing edge is the surface of the blade furthest
from the boat. During reverse operation, this is the area Diameter
of the blade that first cuts through the water.
The blade face is the surface of the blade that faces Propeller diameter is the distance from the center of
away from the boat. During forward operation, the hub to the blade tip, multiplied by two. Essentially it
high-pressure forms on this side of the blade. is the diameter of the circle formed by the blade tips
during propeller rotation (Figure 14).
The blade back is the surface of the blade that faces
toward the boat. During forward gear operation,
low-pressure forms on this side of the blade. Pitch and rake
The cup is a small curve or lip on the trailing edge of
Propeller pitch and rake describe the placement of the
the blade. Cupped propeller blades generally perform
blades in relation to the hub (Figure 15).
better than non-cupped propeller blades.
Pitch describes the theoretical distance the propeller
The hub is the center portion of the propeller. It con- would travel in one revolution. In A, Figure 16, the pro-
nects the blades to the propeller shaft. On most drive peller would travel 10 inches in one revolution. In B,
systems, engine exhaust is routed through the hub; in Figure 16, the propeller would travel 20 inches in one
this case, the hub is made up of an outer and inner por- revolution. This distance is only theoretical; during op-
tion, connected by ribs. eration, the propeller achieves only 75-85% of its pitch.
The diffuser ring is used on though- hub exhaust Slip rate describes the difference in actual travel rela-
models to prevent exhaust gasses from entering the tive to the pitch. Lighter, faster boats typically achieve
blade area. a lower slip rate than heavier, slower boats.
13
GENERAL INFORMATION
Direction of
rotation
Blade face
PI Pitch line
line
14 CHAPTER ONE
Propeller blades can be constructed with constant

pitch (Figure 17) or progressive pitch (Figure 18). On
a progressive propeller, the pitch starts low at the lead-
ing edge and increases toward the trailing edge. The
propeller pitch specification is the average of the pitch
across the entire blade. Propellers with progressive
pitch usually provide better overall performance than
constant pitch propellers.
Blade rake is specified in degrees and is measured
along a line from the center of the hub to the blade tip. A
blade that is perpendicular to the hub (Figure 19) has 0"
rake. A blade that is angled from perpendicular (Figure
19) has a rake expressed by its difference from perpen-
dicular. Most propellers have rakes ranging from 0-20".
Lighter faster boats generally perform better with pro-
peller with a greater amount of rake. Heavier, slower
boats generally perform better using a propeller with
less rake.
Blade thickness
Blade thickness in not uniform at all points along the

blade. For efficiency, blades are as thin a possible at all
points while retaining enough strength to move the
boat. Blades are thicker where they meet the hub and
thinner at the blade tips (Figure 20). This is necessary
to support the heavier loads at the hub section of the
blade. Overall blade thickness is dependent on the
strength of the material used.
When cut along a line from the leading edge to the
trailing edge in the central portion of the blade (Figure
21), the propeller blade resembles and airplane wing.
The blade face, where high-pressure exists during for-
ward rotation, is almost flat. The blade back, where
low-pressure exists during forward rotation, is curved,
16 CHAPTER ONE
with the thinnest portions at the edges and the thickest

portion at the center.
Propellers that run only partially submerged, as in
racing applications, may have a wedge shaped cross-
section (Figure 22). The leading edge is very thin and
the blade thickness increases toward the trailing edge,
where it is thickest. If a propeller such as this is run to-
tally submerged, it is very inefficient.
Number of blades
The number of blades used on a propeller is a compro-

mise between efficiency and vibration. A one- bladed
propeller would the most efficient, but it would create an
unacceptable amount of vibration. As blades are added,
efficiency decreases, but so does vibration. Most propel-
lers have three or four blades, representing the most
practical trade-off between efficiency and vibration.
sea level, water boils at 212"F (100"C). As pressure in-
creases, such as within an engine cooling system, the
Material boiling point of the water increases-it boils at a tem-
perature higher than 212" F (100" C). The opposite is
Propeller materials are chosen for strength, corrosion
also true. As pressure decreases, water boils at a tem-
resistance and economy. Stainless steel, aluminum,
perature lower than 212" F (100" C). It the pressure
plastic and bronze are the most commonly used materi-
drops low enough, water will boil at normal room tem-
als. Bronze is quite strong but rather expensive. Stain-
perature.
less steel is more common than bronze because of its
During normal propeller operation, low pressure
combination of strength and lower cost. Aluminum al-
forms on the blade back. Normally the pressure does
loy and plastic materials are the least expensive but
not drop low enough for boiling to occur. However,
usually lack the strength of stainless steel. Plastic pro-
poor propeller design, damaged blades or using the
pellers are more suited for lower horsepower applica-
wrong propeller can cause unusually low pressure on
tions.
the blade surface (Figure 24). If the pressure drops low
enough, boiling occurs and bubbles form on the blade
Direction of rotation surfaces. As the boiling water moves to a higher pres-
sure area of the blade, the boiling ceases and the bub-
Propellers are made for both right-hand and left hand bles collapse. The collapsing bubbles release energy
rotations although right-hand is the most commonly that erodes the surface of the propeller blade.
used. As viewed from the rear of the boat while in for- Corroded surfaces, physical damage or even marine
ward gear, a right-hand propeller turns clockwise and a growth combined with high-speed operation can cause
left-hand propeller turns counterclockwise. Off the low pressure and cavitation on gearcase surfaces. In
boat, the direction of rotation is determined by observ- such cases, low pressure forms as water flows over a
ing the angle of the blades (Figure 23). A right-hand protrusion or rough surface. The boiling water forms
propeller's blade slant from the upper left to the lower bubbles that collapse as they move to a higher pressure
right; a left-hand propeller's blades are opposite. area toward the rear of the surface imperfection.
This entire process of pressure drop, boiling and bub-
Cavitation and Ventilation ble collapse is called cavitation. The ensuing damage is
called cavitation bzrrn. Cavitation is caused by a de-
Cavitation and ventilation are not interchangeable crease in pressure, not an increase in temperature.
terms; they refer to two distinct problems encountered Ventilation is not as complex a process as cavitation.
during propeller operation. Ventilation refers to air entering the blade area, either
To help understand cavitation, consider the relation- from above the water surface or from a though-hub ex-
ship between pressure and the boiling point of water. At haust system. As the blades meet the air, the propeller
Counterclockwise
or left-hand
18 CHAPTER ONE
I
momentarily loses its bite with the water and subse-

quently loses most of its thrust. An added complication
is that the propeller and engine over-rev, causing very
low pressure on the blade back and massive cavitation.
Most marine drive systems have a plate (Figure 25)
above the propeller designed to prevent surface air
from entering the blade area. This plate is correctly
called an anti-ventilation plate, although it is often in-
correctly called an anticavitation plate.
Most propellers have a flared section at the rear of the
I
propeller called a diffuser ring. This feature forms a
barrier, and extends the exhaust passage far enough aft
to prevent the exhaust gases from ventilating the pro-
peller.
A close fit of the propeller to the gearcase is neces-
sary to keep exhaust gasses from exiting and ventilating
the propeller. Using the wrong propeller attaching
hardware can position the propeller too far aft, prevent-
ing a close fit. The wrong hardware can also allow the
propeller to rub heavily against the gearcase, causing
rapid wear to both components. Wear or damage to
these surfaces will allow the propeller to ventilate.
Table I CONVERSlON TABLES

Multiply: By: To get t h e equivalent of:
Length
Inches 25.4 Millimeter
Inches 2.54 Centimeter
Miles 1.609 Kilometer
Feet 0.3048 Meter
Millimeter 0.03937 Inches
Centimeter 0.3937 Inches
Kilometer 0.6214 Mile
Meter 0.0006214 Mile
Fluid volume
U.S. quarts 0.9463 Liters
U.S. gallons 3.785 Liters
U.S. ounces 29.573529 Milliliters
Imperial gallons 4.54609 Liters
Imperial quarts 1.1365 Liters
Liters 0.2641721 U.S. gallons
Liters 1.0566882 U.S. quarts
Liters 33.814023 U.S. ounces
Liters 0.22 Imperial gallons
Liters 0.8799 Imperial quarts
Milliliters 0.033814 U.S. ounces
Milliliters 1O
. Cubic centimeters
Milliliters 0.001 Liters
Torque
Foot-pounds 1.3558 Newton-meters
Foot-pounds 0.138255 Meters-kilograms
Inch-pounds 0.1 1299 Newton-meters
Newton-meters 0.7375622 Foot-pounds
Newton-meters 8.8507 Inch-pounds
Meters-kilograms 7.2330139 Foot-pounds
(continued)
Table 1 CONVERSION TABLES (continued)

Multiply: By: To get the equivalent of:
Volume
Cubic inches 16.387064 Cubic centimeters
Cubic centimeters 0.061 0237 Cubic inches
Temperature
Fahrenheit (F - 32")x 0.556 Centigrade
Centigrade (Cx 1.8) + 32 Fahrenheit
Weight
Ounces 28.3495 Grams
Pounds 0.4535924 Kilograms
Grams 0.035274 Ounces
Kilograms 2.2046224 Pounds
Pressure
Pounds per square inch 0.070307 Kilograms per
square centimeter
Kilograms per square 14.223343 Pounds per square inch
centimeter
Kilopascals 0.1450 Pounds per square inch
Pounds per square inch 6.895 Kilopascals
Speed
Miles per hour 1.609344 Kilometers per hour
Kilometers per hour 0.6213712 Miles per hour
Table 2 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS

Decimal Metric Decimal Metric
Fractions in. mm Fractions in. mm
1164 0.015625 0.39688 33/64 0.515625 13.09687
1/32 0.03125 0.79375 17/32 0.53125 13.49375
3/64 0.046875 1 .I9062 35/64 0.546875 13.89062
1/16 0.0625 1.58750 9/16 0.5625 14.28750
5/64 0.078125 1.98437 37/64 0.578125 14.68437
3/32 0.09375 2.38125 19/32 0.59375 15.081 25
7/64 0.109375 2.77812 39/64 0.609375 15.47812
118 0.125 3.1750 518 0.625 15.87500
9/64 0.140625 3.57187 41/64 0.640625 16.27187
5/32 0.1 5625 3.96875 21/32 0.65625 16.66875
11/64 0.171875 4.36562 43/64 0.671 875 17.06562
3116 0.1875 4.76250 11/16 0.6875 17.46250
1 3/64 0.203125 5.15937 W64 0.703125 17.85937
7/32 0.21875 5.55625 23/32 0.71875 18.25625
15/64 0.234375 5.95312 47/64 0.734375 18.65312
114 0.250 6.35000 314 0.750 19.05000
17/64 0.265625 6.74687 49/64 0.765625 19.44687
9/32 0.28125 7.14375 25/32 0.78125 19.84375
19/64 0.296875 7.54062 51/64 0.796875 20.24062
5116 0.3125 7.93750 13/16 0.8125 20.63750
21/64 0.328125 8.33437 53664 0.828125 21 -03437
11/32 0.34375 8.73125 27/32 0.84375 21.43125
23/64 0.359375 9.12812 55/64 0.859375 22.82812
318 0.375 9.52500 718 0.875 22.22500
25/64 0.390625 9.92187 57/64 0.890625 22.62187
13/32 0.40625 10.31875 29/32 0.90625 23.01875
27/64 0.421875 10.71562 59/64 0.921875 23.41562
7116 0.4375 11.11250 15/16 0.9375 23.81250
29/64 0.453125 11.50937 61/64 0.953125 24.20937
15/32 0.46875 11 .go625 31/32 0.96875 24.60625
31/64 0.484375 12.30312 63/64 0.984375 25.00312
112 0.500 12.70000 1 1 .OO 25.40000
20 CHAPTER ONE
Table 3 TECHNICAL ABBREVIATIONS

ABDC After bottom dead center
ATDC After top dead center
BBDC Before bottom dead center
BDC Bottom dead center
BTDC Before top dead center
C Celsius (Centigrade)
cc Cubic centimeters
cid Cubic inch displacement
CDI Capacitor discharge ignition
cu. in. Cubic inches
F Fahrenheit
ft. Feet
I
ft.-lb. Foot-pounds
gal. Gallons
HIA High altitude
hp Horsepower
in. Inches
in.-lb. Inch-pounds
I.D. Inside diameter
kg Kilograms
kgm Kilogram meters
km Kilometer
kPa Kilopascals
L Liter
m Meter
MAG Magneto
ml Milliliter
mm Millimeter
N-m Newton-meters
O.D. Outside diameter
or. Ounces
psi Pounds per square inch
PTO Power take off
Pt - Pint
qt. Quart
rPm Revolutions per minute
Table 4 METRIC TAP AND DRILL SIZES

Metric Drill Decimal
size eauivalent fraction Nearest fraction
No. 39
3/32
No. 30
118
No. 19
No. 20
No. 9
16/64
J
17/64
5116
5116
11/32
R
318
13/32
13/32
Table 5 BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE

Specific gravity reading Percentage of charge remaining
I
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Chapter Tlvo
Tools and Techniques
This chapter describes the common tools required for 3. Never smoke or use a torch in an area where a battery is
marine engine repair and troubleshooting. Techniques being charged. Highly explosive hydrogen gas is formed
that make the work easier and more effective are also de- during the charging process.
scribed. Some of the procedures in this book require spe- 4. Use the proper size wrench to avoid damaged fasteners
cial skills or expertise; it some cases it is better to entrust and bodily injury.
the job to a specialist or qualified dealership. 5. If loosening a tight or stuck fastener, consider what
could happen if the wrench slips. Protect yourself accord-
ingly.
SAFETY FIRST 6. Keep the work area clean, uncluttered and well lighted.
7. Wear safety goggles while using any type of tool. This
Professional mechanics can work for years and never is especially important when drilling, grinding or using a
suffer a serious injury. Avoiding injury is as simple as fol- cold chisel.
lowing a few rules and using common sense. Ignoring the 8. Never use worn or damaged tools.
rules can of often does lead to physical injury and/or dam- 9. Keep a Coast Guard approved fire extinguisher handy.
aged equipment. Ensure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical
1. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. (Class C) fires.
2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammable liquids,
such as cleaning solvent. Dirty or solvent soaked shop BASIC HAND TOOLS
towels are extremely flammable. If working in a garage,
remember that most home gas appliances have pilot A number of tools are required to maintain and repair a
lights. marine engine. Most of these tools are also used for home
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 23
and automobile repair. Some tools are made especially for

working on marine engines; these tools can be purchased
from a marine dealership. Having the required tools al-
ways makes the job easier and more effective.
Keep the tools clean and in a suitable box. Keep them
organized with related tools stored together. After using
tool, wipe it clean using a shop towel.
The following tools are required to perform virtually
any repair job. Each tool is described and the recom-
mended size given for starting a tool collection. Addi-
tional tools and some duplication may be added as you
become more familiar with the equipment. You may need
a11U.S. standard tools, all metric size tools or a mixture of
both.
Screwdrivers
A screwdriver (Figure 1)is a very basic tool, but if used

improperly can do more damage than good. The slot on a
screw has a definite dimension and shape. Always select a
screwdriver that conforms to the shape of the screw. Use a
small screwdnver for small screws and a large one for
large screws or the screw head are damaged.
Three types of screwdrivers are commonly required: a
slotted (flat-blade) screwdriver (Figure 2), Phillips
screwdriver (Figure 3) and Torx screwdriver (Figure 4).
Screwdrivers are available in sets, whch ofien include
an assortment of slotted Phillips and Tom blades. If you
buy them individually, buy at least the following:
a. Slotted screwdriver-5/16 x 6 in. blade.
b. Slotted screwdriver-318 x 12 in. blade.
c. Phillips screwdriver-No. 2 tip, 6 in. blade.
d. Phillips screwdriver-No. 3 tip, 6 in. blade.
e. Torx screwdriver-T15 tip, 6 in. blade.
f. Torx screwdriver-T20 tip, 6 in. blade.
g. Tom screwdriver-T25 tip, 6 in. blade.
Use screwdrivers only for driving screws. Never use a
screwdriver for prying or chiseling. Do not attempt to re-
move a Phillips, Tom or Allen head screw with a slotted
screwdriver; you can damage the screw head so that even
the proper tool is unable to remove it.
Keep the tip of a slotted screwdriver in good condition.
Carefully grind the tip to the proper size and taper if it is
worn or damaged. The sides of the blade must be parallel
and the blade tip must be flat. Replace a Phillips or Tom
screwdriver if its tip is worn or damaged.
Pliers
Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are

useful for cutting, gripping, bending and crimping.Never
24 CHAPTER TWO
use pliers to cut hardened objects or turn bolts or nuts.

Figure 5 shows several types of pliers.
Each type of pliers has a specialized function. Gen-
eral-purpose pliers are mainly used for gripping and bend-
ing. Locking pliers are used for gripping objects very
tightly, like a vise. Use needlenose pliers to grip or bend
small objects. Adjustable or slip-joint pliers (Figure 6)
can be adjusted to grip various sized objects; the jaws re-
main parallel for gripping objects such as pipe or tubing.
There are many more types of pliers. The ones described
here are the most common.
Box-end and Open-end Wrenches
Box-end and open-end wrenches (Figure 7) are avail-

able in sets in a variety of sizes. The number stamped near
the end of the wrench refers to the distance between two
parallel flats on the hex head bolt or nut.
Box-end wrenches (Figure 8) provide a better grip on
the nut and are stronger than open end wrenches. An
open-e.nd wrench (Figure 9) grips the nut on only two
flats. Unless it fits well, it may slip and round off the
points on the nut. A box-end wrench grips all six flats.
Box-end wrenches are available with six-point or 12 point
openings. The six-point opening provides superior hold-
ing power; the 12-point allow a shorter swing if working
in tight quarters.
Use an open-end wrench if a box-end wrench cannot be
positioned over the nut or bolt. To prevent damage to the
fastener, avoid using and open-end wrench if a large
amount of tightening or loosening toque is required.
A combination wrench has both a box-end and open-
end. Both ends are the same size.
Adjustable Wrenches
An adjustable wrench (Figure 10) can be adjusted to fit

virtually any nut or bolt head. However, it can loosen and
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
slip from the nut or bolt, causing damage to the nut and
possible physical injury. Use an adjustable wrench only if
a proper size open-end or box-end wrench in not avail-
able. Avoid using an adjustable wrench if a large amount
of tightening or loosening torque is required.
Adjustable wrenches come in sized ranging from 4- 18
in. overall length. A 6 or 8 in. size is recommended as an
all-purpose wrench.
Socket Wrenches
A socket wrench (Figure 11) is generally faster, safer

and more convenient to use than a common wrench.
Sockets, which attach to a suitable handle, are available
with six-point or 12-point openings and use 114,318, and
112 in. drive sues. The drive size corresponds to the
square hole that mates with the ratchet or flex handle.
Torque Wrench
A torque wrench (Figure 12) is used with a socket to

measure how tight a nut or bolt is installed. They come in
a wide price range and in 114,318, and 112 in. drive sizes.
The drive size corresponds to the square hole that mates
with the socket.
Atypical 114 in. drive torque wrench measures in in.-lb.
increments, and has a range of 20-150 in.-lb. (2.2-17
N-m). Atypical 318 or 112 in. torque measures in ft.-lb. in-
crements, and has a range of 10-150 ft.-lb. (14-203 N*m).
Impact Driver
An impact driver (Figure 13) makes removal of tight

fasteners easy and reduces damage to bolts and screws.
Interchangeable bits allow use on a variety of fasteners.
Circlip Pliers
Circlip (snap ring) pliers are required to remove

circlips. Circlip pliers (Figure 14) usually come with dif-
ferent size tips; many designs can be switched to handle
internal or external type circlips.
Hammers
Various types of hammers (Figure 15) are available to

accommodate a number of applications. Use a ball-peen
hammer to stnke another tool, such as a punch or chisel.
Use a soft-face hammer to strike a metal object without
damaging it.
26 CHAPTER TWO
I
Never use a metal-faced hammer on engine - and drive I
system components as severe damage will occur. You can

always produce the same amount of force with a
soft-faced hammer.
Always wear eye protection when using hammers.
Make sure the hammer is in good condition and that the
handle is not cracked. Select the correct hammer for the
job and always strike the object squarely. Do not use the
handle or the side of the hammer head to stroke an object.
Feeler Gauges
This tool has either flat or wire measuring gauges (Fig-

ure 16). Use wire gauges to measure spark plug gap; use I
flat gauges for other measurements. A nonmagnetic

(brass) gauge may be specified if working around magne-
tized components.
Other Special Tools
Many of the maintenance and repair procedures require

special tools. Most of the necessary tools are available
from a marine dealership or from tool suppliers. Instruc-
tions for their use and the manufacture's part number are
included in the appropriate chapter.
Purchase the required tools from a local marine dealer-
ship or tool supplier. A qualified machinist, often at a
lower price, can make some tools locally. Many marine
dealerships and rental outlets will rent some of the re-
quired tools. Avoid using makeshift tools. Their use may Most of these tools are available fiom a local marine deal-
result in damaged parts that cost far more than the recom- ership or automotive parts store. I
I
mended tool.
I
Multimeter
I
TEST EQUIPMENT
This instrument is invaluable for electrical trouble- 1
This section describes equipment used to perform test- shooting and service. It combines a voltmeter, ohmmeter (
ing, adjustments and measurements on marine engines. and an ammeter in one unit. It is often called a VOM.
I I
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 27
Either type of meter is suitable for most electrical test-

ing described in this manual. An analog meter is better
suited for testing pulsing voltage signals such as those
produced by the ignition system. A digital meter is better
suited for testing very low resistance or voltage reading
(less than 1 volt or 1 ohm). The test procedure will indi-
cate if a specific type of meter is required.
The ignition system produces electrical pulses that are
too short in duration for accurate measurement with a us-
ing a conventional multimeter.Use a meter with peak-volt
reading capability to test the ignition system. This type of
meter captures the peak voltage reached during an electri-
cal pulse.
Scale selection, meter specifications and test connec-
tions vary by the manufacturer and model of the meter.
Thoroughly read the instructions supplied with the meter
before performing any test. The meter and certain electri-
cal components on the engine can be damaged if tested in-
correctly. Have the test performed by a qualified
professional if you are unfamiliar with the testing or gen-
eral meter usage. The expense to replace damaged equip-
ment can far exceed the cost of having the test performed
by a professional.
Strobe Timing Light
This instrument is necessary for dynamic tuning (set-

ting ignition timing while the engine is running). By flash-
ing a light at the precise instant the spark plug fires, the
position of the timing mark can be seen. The flashing light
makes a moving mark appear to stand still next to a sta-
tionary mark.
Timing lights (Figure 19) range fiom inexpensivemod-
els with a neon bulb to expensive models with a xenon
bulb, built in tachometer and timing advance compensa-
tor. A built in tachometer is very useful as most ignition
timing specifications are based on a specific engine speed.
A timing advance compensator delays the strobe
enough to bring the timing mark to a certain place on the
scale. Although useful for troubleshooting purposes, this
feature should not be used to check or adjust the base igni-
Two types of mutimeter are available, analog and digi- tion timing.
tal. Analog meters (Figure 17) have a moving needle with
marked bands on the meter face indicating the volt, ohm
and amperage scales. An analog meter must be calibrated TachorneterlDwell Meter
each time the scale is changed.
A digital meter (Figure 18) is ideally suited for electri- Aportable tachometer (Figure 20) is needed to tune and
cal troubleshootingbecause it is easy to read and more ac- test most marine engines. Ignition timing and carburetor
curate than an analog meter. Most models are adjustments must be performed at a specified engine
auto-ranging, have automatic polarity compensation and speed. Tachometers are available with either an analog or
internal overload protection circuits. digital display.
28 CHAPTER TWO
The fueVair mixture must be adjusted with the engine

running at idle speed. If using an analog tachometer,
choose one with a low range of 0- 1000rpm or 0-2000 rpm
range and a high range of 0-6000 rpm. The high range set-
ting is needed for testing purposes but lacks the accuracy
needed at lower speeds. At lower speeds the meter must
be capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm or less.
Digital tachometers are generally easier to use than
most analog type tachometers. They provide accurate
measurement at all speeds without the need to change the
range or scale. Many of these use an inductive pickup to
receive the signal from the ignition system.
A dwell meter is often incorporated into the tachometer
to allow testing andlor adjustments to engines with a
breaker point ignition system.
Compression Gauge
This tool (Figure 21) measures the amount of pressure

created in the combustion chamber during the compres-
sion stroke. Compression indicates the general engine
condition making it one of the most useful troubleshoot-
ing tools.
The easiest type to use has screw-in adapters that fit the
spark plug holes. Rubber tipped, press-in type gauges are
also available. This type must be held firmly in the spark
plug hole to prevent leakage and inaccurate test results.
Hydrometer
Use a hydrometer to measure specific gravity in the bat-

tery. Specific gravity is the density of the battery electro-
lyte as compared to pure water and indicates the battery's
state of charge. Choose a hydrometer (Figure 22) with au-
tomatic temperature compensation; otherwise the electro-
lyte temperature must be measured during charging to
determine the actual specific gravity.
Precision Measuring Tools
Various tools are required to make precision measure-

ments. A dial indicator-(~i~ure 23), fir example, is used
to determine piston position in the cylinder, runout and SERVICE HINTS
end play of shafts and assemblies. It is also used to mea-
sure free movement between the gear teeth (backlash) in
the drive unit. Most of the service procedures in this manual are
Venier calipers (Figure 24), micrometers (Figure 25) straightforward and can be performed by anyone reason-
and other precision tools are used to measure the size of ably handy with tools. It is suggested, however, that you
parts, such as the piston. consider your skills and available tools and equipment be-
Precision measuring equipment must be stored, han- fore attempting a repair involving major disassembly of
dled and used carefully or it will not remain accurate. the engine or drive unit.
damage to test equipment and to ensure accurate testing or

adjustment. Always disconnect the negative battery cable
~~
first, then the positive cable. When reconnecting the bat- I
tery, always connect the positive cable first, then the nega- ~
tive cable.
I
Preparation for Disassembly
Repairs go much faster if the equipment is clean before

you begin work. There are special cleaners such as Gunk
or Bel-Ray Degreaser, for cleaning the engine and related
components. Just spray or brush on the cleaning solution,
let it stand, then rinse with a garden hose.
Use pressurized water to remove marine growth and
corrosion or mineral deposits from external components
such as the gearcase, drive shaft housing and clamp
brackets. Avoid directing pressurized water directly as
seals or gaskets; pressurized water can flow past seal and
gasket surfaces and contaminate lubricating fluids.
WARNrnG
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. It
presents an extreme fire hazard. Always
work in a well-ventilated area if using
cleaning solvent. Keep a Coast Guard ap-
proved fire extinguisher, rated for gaso-
line fires, readily accessible in the work
Some operations, for example, require the use of a area.
press. Other operations require precision measurement.
Have the procedure or measurements performed by a pro- Much of the labor charged for a job performed at a deal-,
fessional if you do not have access to the correct equip- ership is usually for removal and disassembly of other
ment or are unfamiliar with its use. parts to access defective parts or assemblies. It is fre-I
I
quently possible to perform most of the disassembly then1
take the defective part or assembly to the dealership fod
Special Battery Precautions repair. I
If you decide to perform the job yourself, read the ap-
Disconnecting or connecting the battery can create a propriate section in this manual, in its entirety. Study t h j
spike or surge of current throughout the electrical system. illustrations and text until you fully understand what is in-,
This spike or surge can damage certain components of the volved to complete the job. Make arrangements to purJ
charging system. Always verify the ignition switch is in chase or rent all required special tools and equipmend
the OFF position before connecting or disconnecting the
battery or changing the selection on a battery switch.
before starting. ~
Always disconnect both battery cables and remove the
battery from the boat for charging. If the battery cables are Disassembly Precautions 1I
connected, the charger may induce a damaging spike or
surge of current into the electrical system. During charg-
ing, batteries produce explosive and corrosive gasses.
During disassembly, keep a few general precautions 4
mind. Force is rarely needed to get things apart. If parts fi)
These gases can cause corrosion in the battery compart- tightly, such as a bearing on a shaft, there is usually a tool
ment and creates an extremely hazardous condition. designed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver to
Disconnect the cables from the battery prior to testing, separate parts with a machined mating surface, such as the
adjusting or repairing many of the systems or components cylinder head or manifold. The surfaces will be damaged
on the engine. This is necessary for safety, to prevent and leak. I
CHAPTER TWO
Make diagrams or take instant photographs wherever

similar-appearing parts are found. Often, disassembled
parts are left for several days or longer before resuming
work. You may not remember where everything came
from, or carefully arranged parts may become dis-
turbed.
Cover all openings after removing parts to keep con-
tamination or other parts from entering.
Tag all similar internal parts for location and mounting
direction. Reinstall all internal components in the same
location and mounting direction as removed. Record the
thickness and mounting location of any shims as they are
removed. Place small bolts and parts in plastic sandwich
bags. Seal and label the bags with masking tape.
Tag all wires, hoses and connections and make a sketch
of the routing. Never rely on memory alone; it may be sev-
eral days or longer before you resume work. Take your time and do the job right. Break-in procedure
Protect all painted surfaces from physical damage. for a newly rebuilt engine or drive is the same as for a new
Never allow gasoline or cleaning solvent on these sur- one. Use the recommended break-in oil and follow the in-
faces. structions provided in the appropriate chapter.
Assembly Precautions SPECIAL TIPS
No parts, except those assembled with a press fit, re- Because of the extreme demands placed on marine
quire unusual force during assembly. If a part is hard to re- equipment, several points must be kept in mind when per-
move or install, find out why before proceeding. forming service and repair. The following are general sug-
When assembling parts, start all fasteners, then tighten gestions that may improve the overall life of the machine
evenly in an alternating or crossing pattern unless a spe- and help avoid costly failure.
cific tightening sequence or procedure is given. 1. Unless otherwise specified, apply a threadlocking
When assembling parts, be sure all shims, spacers and compound, such as Loctite Threadlocker, to all bolts and
washers are installed in the same position and location as nuts, even if secured with a lockwasher. Use only the
removed. specified grade of threadlocking compound. A screw or
Whenever a rotating part butts against a stationary part, bolt lost from an engine cover or bearing retainer could
look for a shim or washer. Use new gaskets, seals and easily cause serious and expensive damage before the loss
O-rings if there is any doubt about the conditions of the is noticed. When applying threadlocking compound, use
used ones. Unless otherwise specified,a thin coating of oil only enough to lightly coat the threads. If too much is
on gaskets may help them seal more effectively. Use used, it can work its way down the threads and contami-
heavy grease to hold small parts in place if they tend to fall nate seals or bearings.
out during assembly. 2. If self-locking fasteners are used, replace them with
Use emery cloth and oil to remove high spots from pis- new ones. Do not install standard fasteners in place of
ton surfaces. Use a dull screwdriver to remove carbon de- self-locking ones.
posits from the cylinder head, ports and piston crown. Do 3. Use caution when using air tools to remove stainless
not scratch or gouge these surfaces. Wipe the surfaces steel nuts or bolts. The heat generated during rapid spin-
clean with a clean shop towel when finished. ning easily damages the threads of stainless steel fasten-
If the carburetor must be repaired, completely disas- ers. To prevent thread damage, apply penetrating oil as a
semble it and soak all metal parts in a commercial carbu- cooling agent and loosen or tighten them slowly.
retor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber or plastic 4. Use a wide chisel to straighten the tab of a fold-over
parts in these cleaners. Clean rubber or plastic parts in type lockwasher. Such a tool provides a better contact sur-
warm soapy water. Never use a wire to clean jets and face than a screwdriver or pry bar, making straightening
small passages because they are easily damaged. Use easier. During installation, use a new fold-over type
compressed air to blow debris from all passages in the car- lockwasher. If a new lockwasher is not available, fold
buretor body. over a tab on the washer that has not been previously used.
corrosive environment followed by periods of non-use for

@ REMOVING BROKEN weeks or longer. Such use invites corrosion damage to
SCREWS AND BOLTS fasteners, causing difficulty or breakage during removal.
This section provides information that is useful for re-
moving stuck or broken fasteners and repairing damaged
threads.
Removing Stuck Fasteners
When a nut or bolt corrodes and cannot be removed,

several methods may be used to loosen it. First, apply
penetrating oil, such as Liquid Wrench or WD-40. Ap-
ken stud 2. Drill hole in stud
ply it liberally to the threads and allow it to penetrate
for 10-15 minutes. Tap the fastener several times with
a small hammer; however, do not hit it hard enough to
cause damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if neces-
sary.
For stuck screws, apply penetrating oil as described,
then insert a screwdriver in the slot. Tap the top of the
screwdriver with a hammer. This looses the corrosio
in the threads allowing it to turn. If the screw head is
too damaged to use a screwdriver, grip the head wit
3. Tap in screw extractor 4. Remove broken stud locking pliers and twist the screw from the assembly.
APhillips, Allen or Torx screwdriver may start to sli
in the screw during removal. If slippage occurs, sto
Reusing the same tab may cause the washer to break, re- immediately and apply a dab of course valve lap
sulting in a loss of locking ability and a loose piece of compound onto the tip of the screwdriver. Valve
metal adrift in the engine. When folding the tab into posi- ping compound or a special screw removal compo
tion, carefully pry it toward the flat on the bolt or nut. Use is available from most hardware and automotive part
a pair or plies to bend the tab against the fastener. Do not stores. Insert the driver into the screw and apply down
use a punch and hammer to drive the tab into position. The ward pressure while turning. The gritty material in th
resulting fold may be too sharp, weakening the washer compound improves the grip on the screw, allowi
and increasing its chance of failure. more rotational force before slippage occurs. Keep t
5. Use only the specified replacement parts if replacing a compound away from any other engine components.
missing or damaged bolt, screw or nut. Many fasteners are is very abrasive and can cause rapid wear if applie
specially hardened for the application. onto moving or sliding surfaces.
6. Install only the specified gaskets. Unless specified oth- Avoid applying heat unless specifically instructe
erwise, install them without sealant. Many gaskets are because it may melt, warp or remove the temper fro
made with a material that swells when it contacts oil. Gas- parts.
ket sealer prevents them from swelling as intended and
can result in oil leakage. Most gaskets must be a specific Removing Broken Bolts or Screws
thickness. Installing a gasket that is too thin or too thick in
a critical area could cause expensive damage. The head of bolt or screw may unexpectedly twist off
7. Make sure all shims and washers are reinstalled in the during removal. Several methods are available for remov-
same location and position. Whenever a rotating part con- ing the remaining portion of the bolt or screw.
tacts a stationary part, look for a shim or washer. If a large portion of the bolt or screw projects out, try
gripping it with locking pliers. If the projecting portion
MECHANICS TECHNIQUES is too small, file it to fit a wrench or cut a slot in it to fit a
screwdriver (Figure 26). If the head breaks off flush or
Marine engines are subjected to conditions very differ- cannot be turned with a screwdriver or wrench, use a
ent from most engines. They are repeatedly subjected to a screw extractor (Figure 27). To do this, center punch
I
32 CHAPTER TWO
the remaining portion of the screw or bolt. Select the

proper size of extractor for the size of the fastener.
Using the drill size specified on the extractor, drill a
hole into the fastener. Do not drill deeper than the re-
maining fastener. Carefully tap the extractor into the
hole and back the remnant out using a wrench on the ex-
tractor.
Remedying Stripped Threads
Occasionally, threads are stripped through careless-

ness or impact damage. Often the threads can be re-
paired by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or
die (for external threads on bolts) through threads (Fig-
ure 28).
To clean or repair spark plug threads, use a spark plug
tap. If an internal thread is damaged, it may be necessary
to install a Helicoil or some other type of thread insert.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when installing
their insert.

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Three
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting is the simpleprocess of testing individ- 4. Has any service work been recently performed?
ual systems for the purpose of quickly isolating good 5. Has the unit recently come out of storage?
systems from defective or non-functional system(s).When
6. Has the fuel supplier or fuel grade been recently
a system is identified as defective, troubleshooting contin- changed?
ues with testing of the individual components from the
7. Is the manufacturer's recommended oil being used?
suspect system. It is very important to perform only one
test procedure at a time; otherwise, it will be difficult, if 8. Have any accessoriesbeen added to the boat or engine?
not impossible,to determine the condition of each individ- Once the symptom is adequately defined, attempt to
ual component. duplicate the problem. Check the easy, simple areas first
Occasionally a component in a system cannot be tested such as failure to prime the fuel system, attach the safety
separately. In this case, other components are tested and lanyard or an incorrect starting procedure.
eliminated until the suspect component is identified as Before beginning any troubleshooting procedure, per-
defective by the process of elknation. The most impor- form a thorough visual inspection of the unit. Pay special
tant rules of troubleshooting are to test systems before attention to the condition of the battery cable connections
components and to be methodical. Haphazardly jumping (at the battery and the outboard motor), all electrical har-
from one system or component to another may eventually ness connectors and terminals, fuel quantity, quality and
solve the problem, but time and effort will be wasted. Use supply, indications of engine overheat, evidence of leaks
the various system diagrams provided in this manual to (fuel, oil and water) and mechanical integrity (loose fas-
identify all components in a system. Test each component teners, cracked or broken castings). Learning to recognize
in a rational order to determine which component has visual defects is a skill that comes from self-disciplineand
caused the system's failure. patience. Take your time and look closely. Use your hands
The troubleshooting process generally begins when an to touch, feel and wiggle components.
unusual symptom (decrease in performance or unsatisfac- Be realistic about your capabilities, especially when
tory operating characteristic)is noticed. The next step is to working from a home garage or driveway. Service depart-
define the symptom as accurately as possible. Key points ments tend to charge heavily to reassemble an engine that
to consider are: comes into the shop in several boxes, while some will
1. Did the problem occur suddenly or gradually? refuse to take on such a job.
2. Is there a specific engine speed or load at which the Proper lubrication, maintenance and engine tune-up as
problem occurs? described in Chapter Four will reduce the necessity for
3. Does the weather (extreme hot or cold) or engine tem- troubleshooting. However, because of the harsh and de-
perature affect the symptom? manding environment in which the outboard motor oper-
CHAPTER THREE
ates, troubleshooting at some point in the motor's Securely cap or plug all disconnected fuel lines to pre-I
serviceable life is inevitable. vent fuel discharge when the motor is cranked or the primerl
This chapter concentrates on the actual troubleshooting bulb is squeezed.
procedure. Once the defective component is identified,re- Thoroughly read all manufacturer's instructions andl
fer to the appropriate chapter for removal and replacement safety sheets for test equipment and special tools being
procedures. Refer to the Quick Reference Data section at used. I
the front of the manual for tables containing common en- Do not substitute parts unless you know they meet or1
gine specifications, standard torque values, and spark plug exceed the manufacturer's specifications. I
recommendations. Never run an outboard motor without an adequate water
Tables 1-4 list recommended test equipment and tools, supply. Never run an outboard motor at wide-open throttle
wire color codes and battery cable recommendations. Ta- without an adequate load. Do not exceed 3000 rpm in I
bles 5-8 cover typical symptoms and solutions for the neutral (no load). I
starting, charging, ignition and fuel systems. Tables 9-15 Safely performing on-water tests requires two people.
list specifications (or identify) the starting, charging and One person must operate the boat while the other monitors I
ignition systems. Tables 1-16 are located at the end of this the gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain
chapter. seated inside the boat at all times. It is not acceptable to
lean over the transom while the boat is under way. Use
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS- extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be located in
1998-2002 MODEL YEAR ENGINES the normal seating area.
The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) certifies I

Test Wheels (Propellers) I
emission output for all 1998-2002(EC) models. Certified
models have an EPA certification plate mounted near the OMC recommends using the specified test wheel (pro-
model identification plate on the engine midsection. peller) for procedures that require running the engine
Refer to Model Identijication in Chapter Eight for illus- under load. An illustration of a typical test wheel is located
trations and additional information on the certification in Chapter Five. The correct test wheel will suitably load
plate. the engine while producing a minimal amount of thrust.
All repairs or service procedures must be performed ex- Use a test wheel in an adequately sized test tank, with the
actly as specified to ensure the engine will continue to boat on a trailer backed into the water or with the boat
comply with EPA requirements. For the same reason, all launched and tied to a dock.
replacement parts must meet or exceed the manufacturer's Test wheels are available from OMC Genuine Parts and
specifications. are listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the front
If in doubt as to whether a repair or service procedure of this manual. The test wheel is also used to determine
will adversely affect the engine's ability to maintain EPA whether or not the engine is producing its rated power. A
compliance, contact an Evinrude or Johnson dealership minimum speed test is listed for each engine in the Quick
before beginning the repair or procedure. Reference Data Section. If the engine can reach or exceed
the specified minimum test speed with the specified test
wheel installed, the engine is producing its rated power.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Wear approved eye protection at all times (Figure l),es-

pecially when machinery is in operation and when using a
hammer. Wear approved ear protection during all running
tests and in the presence of noisy machinery. Keep loose
clothing tucked in and long hair tied back and secured.Re-
fer to Safety First in Chapter Two for additional safety
guidelines.
When making or breaking any electrical connection, al-
ways disconnect the negative battery cable. When per-
forming tests that require cranking the engine without
starting,disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to pre-
vent accidental starts and sparks.
TROUBLESHOOTING
I
The gearcase must be submerged in water to at least its surface is removed. However, it is far better to remove too l 1
1
normal operating, depth and the gearcase must be shifted little, than too much. It may take several tries to achieve
into FORWARD gear for thls test. the correct full throttle speed, but once achieved, no further
modifications are required. Many propeller repair stations
A suitable test propeller can also be made by modifying will have experience with this type of modification and
(turning down) the diameter of a standard low pitch alurni- may be able to recommend a starting point.
num propeller until the recommended wide-open throttle
speed can be obtained with the motor (and boat) on a Test wheels andor propellers allow simple tracking of
trailer, backed into the water. Be careful when tying the engine performance. The full throttle test speed of an
boat to a dock as considerable thrust is developed by this engine fitted with the correct test wheel or correctly modi-
type of test propeller. Some docks may not be able to fied propeller can be tracked from season to season. It is
withstand the load. not unusual for a new or rebuilt engine to show a slight
Propeller repair stations can provide the modification increase in test propeller speed as complete break-in is
service. Normally, approximately 113 to 112 of the blade achieved. The engine w d generally hold this speed over
the normal service life of the engine. As the engine begins
to wear out, the test wheel (propeller) speed will show a
gradual decrease that deteriorates to a marked or drastic
decrease, as the point of engine failure is reached.
(? OPERATING REQUIREMENTS
All two-stroke engines require three basic conditions to

run properly: The correct air and fuel mixture from the
carburetor, crankcase and combustion chamber compres-
I
J/
sion, and adequate spark delivered to the spark plug at the
correct time. When troubleshooting it is helpful to remem-
ber: fuel, compression and spark (Figure 2). If any of these
0
are lacking the motor will not run. First, verify the me-
chanical integrity of the engine by performing a compres-
sion test (Chapter Four). Once compression is verified, test
the ignition system with an air gap spark tester and then
COY PRESSION finally focus your attention on the fuel system. Trou-
bleshooting in this order will provide the quickest results.
If the motor has been sitting for any length of time and
refuses to start, check the condition of the battery first to
make sure it is adequately charged, then inspect the battery
cable connections at the battery and the engine. Examine
the fuel delivery system. This includes the fuel tank, fuel
pump, fuel lines, fuel filters and carburetor(s). Rust or
corrosion may have formed in the tank, restricting fuel
flow. Gasoline deposits may have gummed up carburetor
SPARK jets and air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency
after standing for long periods. Condensation may con-
taminate the fuel with water. Connect a portable tank
containing fresh fuel mix to help isolate the problem. Do
not drain the old gasoline unless you are sure it is at fault.
Always dispose of old gasohe in accordance with EPA
regulations.
36 CHAPTER THREE
Starting Difficulties same. If this is not possible, the engine must be disassem-
bled and internally inspected.
Occasionally, an outboard motor will be plagued by hard
starting and generally poor performance (especially at low
speeds) for which there seems to be no good cause. If fuel TEST AND REPAIR EQUIPMENT
and ignition systems test satisfactorily and a compression
Voltage
test indicates that the combustion chamber components
(pistons, rings, cylinder walls and head gaskets) are in
Voltage is the pressure in an electrical circuit. The more
good condition, the crankcase sealing should be tested.
pressure, the more work that can be done. Voltage can be
What has not been tested is crankcase sealing. A two-cy- visualized as water pressure in a garden hose. The more
cle engine cannot function unless the crankcase is ade- pressure, the further the water can be sprayed. Water can
quately sealed. As the piston travels downward, the be present in the hose, but without pressure, you cannot
crankcase must pressurize and push the airlfuel mixture accomplish anything. If the water pressure is too high, the
into the combustion chamber as the intake ports are uncov- hose will burst. When voltage is excessive, it will leak past
ered. Conversely, as the piston travels upward, the crank- the insulation and arc to ground. Voltage is always meas-
case must create a vacuum to pull the airlfuel mixture into ured with a voltmeter in a simple parallel connection. The
the crankcase from the carburetor in preparation for the connection of a voltmeter directly to the negative and
next cycle. Refer to Chapter Two for operational diagrams positive terminals of a battery is an example of a parallel
of a typical two-stroke engine. connection (Figure 3). Nothing has to be disconnected to
Leakage in the crankcase cause the airlfuel charge to make a parallel connection. Just as a water pressure gauge
leak into the atmosphere under crankcase compression. simply has a tap into a hose or pipe, a voltmeter is an
During the intake stroke, crankcase leakage will cause air electricalpressure gauge that taps into the electricalcircuit.
from the atmosphere to be drawn into the crankcase, dilut-
ing the airlfuel charge. The net result is inadequate fuel in
the combustion chamber. On multiple cylinder engines, DC Voltage
each crankcase must be sealed from all other crankcases.
Internal leakage will allow the airlfuel charge to leak to DC voltage is direct current voltage, meaning that the
another cylinder's crankcase, rather than travel to the cor- electricity always flows in one direction only. All circuits
rect combustion chamber. associated with the battery are DC circuits.
The function of the lower piston ring on most two-stroke
engines is to seal the crankcase. It is difficult to test this
ring. Compression tests typically test the upper (compres-
sion) ring, not the lower ring. A classic symptom of lower
ring failure is the inability to idle at the recommended idle
speed. The engine will run fine at higher speeds, but will
slowly stall when idle is attempted.
External crankcase leakage can be identified with a
visual inspection for fuel residue leaking from the crank-
case parting lines, upper and lower crankshaft seals, reed
valves and intake manifolds. Pressure leaking out of the
crankcase can be quickly identified with a soap and water
solution. Air leaking into the crankcase can be found by
applying oil to the suspected sealing area; the oil will be
drawn into the crankcase at the point of the leak.
Internal leakage is difficult to identify. If there are fit-
tings on each crankcase for fuel pumps, primers or recir-
culation systems, a fuel pressure1vacuum gauge can be
attached. As the engine is cranked, a repeating pres-
surelvacuum cycle must be observed on the gauge. The
pressure reading must be substantially higher than the
vacuum reading. All cylinders must read basically the
TROUBLESHOOTING
AC Voltage manufacturers may refer to this as a DVA voltage readind.

DVA stands for direct voltage adaptor, which is used tb
AC voltage is alternating current, which means that the adapt a standard AC multimeter to measure peak AC volt-
current flows in one direction momentarily and then age.
switches to the opposite direction. The frequency at which Failure to use a meter with a peak (DVA) scale can cause
AC voltage changes direction is referred to as hertz. good ignition components to be incorrectly diagnosed
Household wiring is 115 volts AC and typically 60 hertz bad. OMC specifically recommends one of the following
T
(the average value of electrical pressure is 115 volts and peak voltage meters: the Stevens Instruments CD-77 (Figl-
the electricity changes direction 60 times per second). In ure 4) or the Mercotronic 781. If any other meter is used,
typical outboard motor applications, the charging system's
stator output is AC voltage. In larger, inboard powered
it must provide equivalent readings to these meters. ~
applications, AC voltage is typically created by a dedicated
AC generator (genset) that powers high load devices such
as air-conditioning and appliances. Shorepower is also AC
Amperes ~
voltage. Standard AC voltmeters take an average reading Amperes (amps) are referred to as current. Current is thk
of the fluctuating voltage signal. RMS (root mean square) actual flow of electricity in a circuit. Current can be visy-
AC voltmeters use a different mathematical formula to alized as water flowing from a garden hose. There can bb
come up with a value of the voltage signal. RMS meters pressure in the hose, but if we do not let it flow, no work
must only be used where specified, since the difference in
readings between a standard AC meter and a RMS AC
can be done. The higher the flow of current the more wor
that can be done. However, when too much current flows
F
meter is significant. through a wire, the wire will overheat and melt. ~ e l t e k l
wires are caused by excessive current, not excessive volt-
Peak Voltage age. I
Amps are measured with an ammeter in a simple series

This type of measurement of AC voltage takes the abso- connection. The connection of an ammeter requires the
lute peak or highest value of the fluctuating AC voltage disconnection of a circuit and the splicing of the ammeter
signal. Peak readings are substantiallyhigher than standard into the circuit. Just as a water flow-meter must have tlde
or RMS AC values and are typically used when testing water flow through it in order to measure the flow,
marine CD (capacitor discharge) ignition systems. Other ammeter is an electrical flow-meter that must have all of
T
the current flow through it. Always use an ammeter t h b
can read higher than the anticipated current flow. Always
connect the red lead of the ammeter to
is coming from (electrical source) and the black
ammeter to where the electricity is going
See Figure 5.
1.
Ammeter
~
Black
lead
+
b
~
CHAPTER THREE
Many digital multimeters use inductive or clamp-on tested circuit to the end of the tested circuit, while the cir-
ammeter probes (Figure 6). These probes read the mag- cuit is being operated. If the circuit has no resistance,
netic field strength created from current flowing through a there will be no voltage drop (the meter will read zero
wire. No electrical connection is required, simply slip the volts). The more resistance the circuit has, the higher the
probe over the lead. voltmeter reading will be. Generally, voltage drop read-
A simple form of ammeter is the direct reading induc- ings of one or more volts are considered unsatisfactory.
tive ammeter (Figure 7). These meters directly read the The chief advantage to the voltage drop test over a resis-
magnetic field strength created from current flowing tance test is that the circuit is tested during operation. It is
through a wire. No electrical connection is required; sim- important to remember that a zero reading on a voltage
ply slip the meter over the lead so that the lead is located in drop test is good, while a battery voltage reading would
the channel or groove located on the rear of the meter. signify an open circuit.
The voltage drop test provides an excellent means of
testing solenoids (relays), battery cables and high current
Watts electrical leads (both positive and negative). As with the
ammeter, always connect the red lead of the voltmeter to
Watts (W) are the measurement units for power in an
where the electricity is coming from (source) and the
electrical circuit. Watts rage the ability to do electrical
black lead of the voltmeter to where the electricity is go-
work. The easiest formula for calculating watts is to take
ing (load).
the system voltage times the amps flowing (12-volt sys-
tem times 10 amp alternator = 120 watt maximum load).
You can easily reverse-calculate amp load by dividing Multipliers
, watts by voltage. For example, a 12-wattradio (divided by
12-volt system voltage) uses 1 amp of current. When cal- When using an analog multimeter to measure ohms, the
culating load on a charging system, remember that you scale choices will typically be labeled R x 1, R x 10, R x
cannot carry more load than the system is rated for or the 100 and so on. These are resistance scale multipliers. R x
I
battery will constantly discharge. 100 means to multiply the meter reading by 100. If the
Ohms
Ohms (Q) are the measurement units for resistance in

an electrical circuit. Resistance will cause a reduction in
current flow and a reduction (or drop) in voltage. Visual-
ized as a lunk in a garden hose, whch would cause less
water (current) to flow, it would also cause less pressure
(volts) to be available downstream from the kink.
Resistance is measured with ohmmeters that are
self-powered. Ohmmeters send a small amount of elec-
tricity into a circuit and measure how hard they have to
push to return the electricity to the meter. An ohmmeter
must only be used on a circuit or component that is iso-
lated (disconnected from any other circuit or component)
and has no voltage present. Ohmmeters are technically
connected in series. For additional information on mea-
suring ohms, refer to Ohmmeterguidelines located later in
this chapter.
Voltage Drop Test
Since resistance causes voltage to drop, resistance can

be measured on an active circuit with a voltmeter. This is
the voltage drop test. Basically, a voltage drop test mea-
sures the difference in voltage from the beginning of the
TROUBLESHOOTING
needle indicated a reading of 75 ohms while set to the R x Diodes

100 scale, the actual resistance reading would be 75 x 100
or 7500 ohms. It is important to note and remember the Diodes are one-way check valves for electricity. A series
scale multiplier when using - an analog- ohmmeter. of diodes used to change AC current to DC current is called
Other multipliers commonly used for volts, ohms and a rectifier. Single diodes used to prevent reverse flow of
electricity are typically called blocking diodes. Diodes can
amps scales are: mega- (M), kilo- @), milli- (m) and
be tested with an analog meter set to any ohmmeter scale
micro-(%). Mega (M) is a 1,000,000 multiplier, 75 mega-
other than low or with a digital multirneter set to the diode
ohms (or 75 M-ohms) is 75 million ohms. Kilo (k) is a
1,000 multiplier, 75 kilo-volts (or 75 k-volts) is 75 thou- test scale. A diode tested with an analog ohmmeter will
indicate a relatively low reading in one polarity and a
sand volts. Milli (m) is a 0.001 multiplier, 75 milli-volts
relatively high reading in the opposite polarity. A diode
(or 75 m-volts) is 0.075 volts or 75 thousandths of a volt.
Micro (%) is a 0.000001 multiplier, 75 micro-amps (or 75 tested with a digital multirneter will read a voltage drop of
%-amps) is 0.000075 amps or 75 millionths of an amp. approximately 0.4-0.9 volts in one polarity and an open
circuit in the opposite polarity.
Analog Multimeter
A recommended analog multimeter is the Electro-Spe-

cialities model No. 530, also available from Quicksilver
parts and accessories (Mercury or Mariner Dealer) as part
No. 91-99750 (Figure 8).This economical meter features
AC and DC volts, DVA (Peak volts), 10 amp DC ammeter
and four ohmmeter ranges. When using this meter to read
peak volts (DVA) on OMC (Evimde/Johnson) ignition
systems, it may be necessary to reverse the lead's polarity
to obtain satisfactory readings.
When using an analog meter to read ohms, the meter
must be calibrated (zeroed) each time the scale or range is
changed. Normally the ohmmeter leads are connected for
calibration; however, some meters require that the leads
not be touching for calibration when using the low ohms
scale. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for
calibration.
When checking for a short to ground, calibrate on the
highest scale available. When checking diodes, calibrate
on the R x 10 scale or higher. If the ohmmeter is so
equipped, never use its low scale to test a diode or short to
ground. When checking for a specific ohm value, calibrate
the ohmmeter on a scale that allows reading the specifica-
tion as near the middle of the meter movement as possible.
Analog meters allow easy visual identification of erratic or
fluctuating readings.
Digital Multimeter
The digital multimeter is rapidly gaining popularity in

the marine industry after many years of acceptance in the
automotive industry. Digital displays are easy and clear to
read. Most digital meters are auto-ranging, which means
that they automatically shift to the scale most appropriate
for displaying the value being read. However, be careful to
CHAPTER THREE
read the scale correctly. Refer to Multipliers located pre- Test Light
viously in this chapter.
Fluctuating readings can be frustrating to read as the The test light is a useful tool for simple troubleshooting.
display will change several times a second. Quality digital A test light must not be used on electronic circuits, such as
multimeters typically have a bar graph located below the modern ignition and fuel injection circuits. The current
digital number display. The bar graph allows easy interpre- draw of the test lamp can damage delicate electronic cir-
tation of fluctuating readings, similar to an analog meter. cuits. A test light must also not be used where specific
The scale range and multiplier (if applicable) will be voltage values are being sought.
displayed alongside the actual reading.
Most quality digital meters have a special diode test Before beginning any troubleshooting with a test lamp,
scale that measures the voltage drop of the diode, instead connect the test lamp directly to the battery and observe
of its resistance. Do not attempt to use the digital multime- the brightness of the bulb. You must reference the rest of
ter's ohms scale to test diodes, as the readings will be your readings against this test. If the bulb does not glow as
inconsistent. The digital multimeter is protected by inter-
nal fuses that are usually uncommon sizes. Buy several
spare fuses at the time of purchase.
Adapters are available for temperature readings, induc-
tive ammeter readings and many other functions. Figure 9
shows a digital multimeter in a protective case with several
adapters.
Ohmmeter Guidelines
When using an analog or digital multimeter to measure

ohms, it is important to understand two electrical condi-
tions:
1. Continuity-Indicated by a 0 (zero) or very low (near
zero) reading. Continuity means that electricity can flow
and is best visualized as a solid wire. This condition is also
referred to as a closed circuit.
2. No continuity-Indicated by an infinity (m) or very
high (near infinity) reading. No continuity means that
electricity cannot flow and is best visualized as a wire
broken in two. This condition is also referred to as an open
circuit.
Resistance (Ohmmeter) Tests
The resistance values are based on tests performed at

room temperature. Actual resistance readings obtained
during testing will generally be slightly higher if checked
on hot components and lower if checked on very cold
components. In addition, resistance readings may vary
depending on the manufacturer of the ohmmeter. There-
fore, use discretion when failing any component that is
only slightly out of specification. Many ohmmeters have
difficulty reading less than 1 ohm accurately. If this is the
case, specifications of less than 1 ohm generally appear as
a very low (continuity) reading.
TROUBLESHOOTING
brightly as when it was hooked directly to the battery, a Four distinct types of connectors are used on engines
problem is indicated. covered in thls manual. Refer to Chapter Seven for com-
plete connector service.
A test lamp can be used to check ground circuits by
connecting the test lamp lead directly to the positive (i)1 . Bullet connectors-The bullet connector (Figure 10) is
battery terminal. When the test lamp probe is connected to a common connector used widely in the industry. The
a good ground circuit, the light will glow brightly. bullet connectors used on Evinrude/Johnson engines use
vinyl sleeves with several internal sealing ribs to seal the
sleeve to the lead as tightly as possible. Replacement male
Electrical Repairs and female connectors, and their appropriate sleeves are
listed in the manufacturer's parts catalog. The connectors
are crimped in place with a pair of standard crimping pliers.
Check all electrical connections for corrosion, mechani- Make sure the correct vinyl sleeve (male or female) is
cal damage, heat damage and loose connections. Clean and installed over the lead before crimping the connector in
repair all connections as necessary. All wire splices or place.
connector repairs must be made with waterproof marine 2. Amphenol connectors-Amphenol connectors have
grade connectors and heat shrink tubing. The OMC Genu- been widely used on Evinrude/Johnson engines since
ine Parts dealer catalog lists heat shrink connectors and 1978. Identify arnphenol connectors by their round, dark
heat shrink tubing for making waterproof wire splices rubber connector bodies. Often a wire locking clip (or wire
(repairs) on engine and boat harnesses, and for making bail) is used to keep the connector from vibrating apart. A
waterproof connections when adding accessories or mak- disconnected Amphenol connector and its wire bail are
ing other repairs. Marine and industrial suppliers are addi- shown in Figure 11.
tional sources for quality electrical repair equipment.
CAUTION
Always lubricate Amphenol connectors with
isopmpyl alcohol when connecting/discon-
necting the bodies andor replacing pins.
The water resistant molded seals in the bod-
ies will be damaged if no lubricant is used.
3. Deutsch connectors--OMC began using Deutsch con-

nectors (Figure 12) when the Modular Wiring System
( M W S ) was introduced on remote control models begin-
ning with the 1996 model year. The modular wiring har-
ness is designed to allow flexible, uncomplicated rigging
with exceptional durability. These connectors are consid-
ered totally waterproof when correctly installed and serv-
iced. Deutsch style connectors are easily identified by their
hard plastic bodies, orange locking wedges and orange
silicone elastomer seals. An external locking tab prevents
the connectors from vibrating apart and must be manually
released before the connectors can be separated. Each
terminal pin is locked into the connector body with its own
individual internal locking tib.
CAUTION
Always lubricate the seals of Deutsch con-
nectors with OMC Electrical Grease when
reconnecting the bodies andor replacing the
pins. I f the locking wedge is removed,fill the
connector body cavity Cfor the wedge) with
OMC Electrical Grease to within 1/32 in.
(0.8 mm) of the wedge-to-connector body
mating sullface.
CHAPTER THREE '
4 . Packard connectors-While the Packard connector 1995 Models i

(Figure 13, typical) is used extensively in the automotive
industry, its use is somewhat limited on EvinrudeIJohnson Prior to 1996, the engine wiring harness was connected
engines. This connector is only used to connect an engine to the remote control (boat) wiring harness with a large,
harness directly to an electrical or ignition component and red, ten-pin rubber plug. Figure 15 shows the remote
is not used to connect a harness to another harness. control harness end of the ten-pin plug. If the engine is
CAUTION equipped with trim and tilt, an additional five-pin Amphe-
Always lubricate the seals of Packard con- no1 connector is used for the trimltilt circuits. Bullet con-
nectors with OMC Electrical Grease when nectors are used to connect the oil tank's low oil sending
reconnecting the bodies or replacing the unit to the engine harness. A dedicated safety lanyard
pin(s), body or seal(s).
There are two styles of Packard connector used on the

60" V4 and V6 engines covered in this manual. The first
style is easily identified by a flat arrangement of the
terminal pins (in a straight row), the large U-shaped lock-
ing tab and the three-ribbed replaceable seals (one sealing
the leads to the body and the other sealing the body to the
component).
To replace the body or the lead-to-body seal, all terminal
pins must be removed and cut from their leads. Unlock the
pins by inserting a suitable terminal tool (from an automo-
tive tool supplier) into the rear of the body after the
lead-to-body seal is moved out and away from the body.
Make sure the leads are routed through the new seal andlor
connector body before crimping new terminal pins to the
leads. After crimping, pull the leads (and pins) into the
connector body until they lock in place. This is a Pull-to-
Lock connector.
The second style of Packard connector is used on the
ignition module of the 60" (loop-charged) V6 engines in
six- and eight-pin configurations (Figure 14). This con-
nector is easily identified by the two stacked rows of
terminal pins (three or four each row). Each pin has its own
individual rear seal, while a common three-ribbed seal is
used to seal the connector body to the component.
To replace the body (or the lead-to-body seals), unlock
the terminal pins by inserting a suitable terminal tool (such
as a paper clip) into the front of the body and depressing
the locking tab. Pull the pin and lead out the rear of the
body. Before reinserting the pin, lead and seal into the
body, be sure to bend each pin's locking tab up slightly, to
ensure a positive lock. Then push each lead and pin into
the body until it locks in place. This is a Push-to-Lock
connector.
WIRING HARNESSES
While many variations of wiring harnesses, switches,

warning systems and controls are available, they fall into
one of the following general categories.
TROUBLESHOOTING
switch is mounted in the control box or in the boats dash. a. The engine is overheating (water temp).
The motor will only run if the lanyard is installed. b. The engine is not receiving oil (no oil).
This system is referred to as the Traditional Wiring Har-
c. The fuel supply is restricted (check engine).
ness in this manual. Refer to Table 2 for the color codes
used on traditional wiring harnesses. d. The oil tank's oil level is low (low oil).
Several styles of OMC tachometers are available with
the System Check gauge integrated into the tachometer. If
a System Check gauge is not used, an audible driver mod-
1996-2002 Models ule must be installed in its place. The module will sound
Beginning with the 1996 model year, a new system the warning horn if any of the previously mentioned prob-
called the Modular Wiring System (MWS) was incorpo- lems occur, but will not indicate the exact cause of the
rated. The MWS system is designed to be used with an warning signal.
OMC System Check engine monitoring gauge. The Sys- The MWS main harness (Figure 17) uses three Deutsch
tem Check gauge (Figure 16) has four light emitting di- connectors to connect the boat (remote control) harness to
odes (LEDs) that allow the operator to easily identlfy the engine harness and a single Deutsch connector to con-
whether: nect the remote oil tank to the engine harness. At the re-
mote control end, a series of Deutsch connectors is used to
connect the boat harness to the remote control (or ignition
switch) harness, the warning horn, the System Check
gauge (or audible driver module) and a tridtilt switch (if
equipped). Ring terminals are provided for the trimltilt
gauge, a conventional tachometer, switched battery posi-
tive (B+) and a black ground lead. Refer to Table 3 for the
color codes used on the MWS harness.
The safety lanyard switch is incorporated into the igni-
tion switch and holds the switch's plunger depressed (Fig-
ure 18). Pulling the lanyard allows the plunger to extend
and rotates the switch to the OFF or STOP position. It is
not necessary for the lanyard to be installed in order for the
motor to run. If the operator is ejected from the boat (with
the lanyard), this design allows any remaining occupants
in the boat to restart the engine and rescue the operator.
WARNING
SYSTEM CHECK GAUGE It is the operator's responsibility to make
sure the lar~yardis installed on the ignition
switch and connected to the operatol; before
beginning operation.
The key benefits of the MWS system are: elimination of

the large, red, 10-pin rubber plug and the separate safety
lanyard switch, easy removal and installation of all com-
ponents, fully waterproof connections and
easy-to-understand warning signals from the System
Check gauge.
The main MWS harness (boat harness) is available in
different lengths to match the boat's length. Extension and
adaptor kits are available to allow the use of 1995 engines
on boats equipped with the MWS and System Check, and
to allow the use of 1996-2002 engines on boats equipped
with the traditional wiring harness. Consult an OMC deal-
ership for your specific application.
44 CHAPTER THREE
STARTING SYSTEM assembly. When battery current is supplied to the starter

motor by the starter solenoid, the pinion gear is thrust
Description upward (via spiral splines) to engage the flywheel's teeth.
Once the engine starts, the flywheel will overmn the pinion
All Evinrude and Johnson outboard motors covered in gear and a spring will disengage the pinion gear from the
this manual are equipped with an electric start system. The
starter motor is mounted vertically on the port side of the Starter motors are direct drive on 90"V4 (loop-charged
power head and uses an inertia-driven bendix (pinion gear) and cross-flow) models. See Figure 19, typical. Gear
w
OMC MODULAR WIRING SYSTEM
(MWS) HARNESS
1. Modular wiring harness

2. Engine connectors (Deutsch)
3. Warning horn Deutsch connector
4. System check gauge Deutsch connector
5. Traditional tachometer ring terminals
6. Trimltilt gauge ring terminals
7. Trimltilt switch Deutsch connector
8. Ignition switch Deutsch connector
TROUBLESHOOTING 45
reduction starters are used on 60" V4 (loop-charged) mod-

els and all V6 and V8 models.
On 60" V4 and V6 models, the reduction gear and pinion
assembly (Figure 20) is mounted directly to the power
head. The starter motor can be removed without removing
the reduction assembly. The starter solenoid is mounted
directly to the bottom of the starter motor. A metal strap
replaces the cable normally used to electricallyconnect the
solenoid to the starter.
On 90" V6 and V8 models, the reduction gear and pinion
assembly are an integral part of the starter motor assembly.
The starting system requires a fully charged battery of
at least the minimum specified capacity to provide the large
amount of electrical current necessary to operate the starter
motor. All models incorporate an alternator to keep the
battery charged during engine operation.
CAUTION
Toprevent starter damage from overheating,
do not operate the starter motor continu-
ously for more than 10 seconds. Allow the
motor to cool for at least two minutes be-
tween attempts to start the engine.
Remote control models
These models use an electric starting system consisting
46 CHAPTER THREE
STARTING SYSTEM COMPONENTS (REMOTE CONTROL MODELS)
Starter Starter
motor solenold
STARTING SYSTEM COMPONENTS (TILLER HANDLE MODELS)
12 volt battery
y (ignition) switch
TROUBLESHOOTING
neutral safety switch, starter solenoid, starter motor and Troubleshooting Preparation
related wiring. See Figure 21. The neutral safety switch
allows starter engagement only if the gear shift is in the If the following procedures do not locate the problem,
NEUTRAL position. The neutral safety switch is mounted refer to Table 5 for additional information. Before trou-
in the remote controlbox. A 20-amp fuse (or circuitbreaker bleshooting the starting circuit, check the following:
on V8 models) is used to protect the remote control key a. The battery must be fully charged. See Chapter
switch circuits. The fuse (or circuit breaker) is located on Seven.
the engine, between the starter solenoid and the main b. The shift control lever must be in the NEUTRAL
harness connector. position.
c. electrical connections must be clean and tight.
Engaging the starter switch allows current to flow The battery cable connections must be secured with
through the neutral safety switch to the starter solenoid's hex nuts and corrosion resistant lock washers. Place
coil windings, causing the solenoid contacts to close and the lockwasher between the battery terminal and the
allowing current to flow directly from the battery, through battery cable to ensure a good connection (Figure
the solenoid and into the starter motor. 23). The use of wing nuts is not an acceptable means
of securing the battery cables to the battery.
d. The wiring harness must be in good condition, with
no worn or frayed insulation.
Tiller handle models e. The fuse (or circuit breaker) protecting the starter
switch must not be blown (open).
f. The power head or gearcase is not the problem
/
Since these models do not use a remote control box, a (mechanical failure).
start button and ignition switch are mounted on the en- CAUTION
gine's lower cowl. The major components of this starting Unless otherwise noted, peij5orm all voltage
system are very similar to the remote control models or test light tests with the leads connected,
described previously, with the following exceptions: and with the terminals exposed to accommo-
date test lead connection.
1. There is no neutral safety switch. A mechanical linkage
prevents the starter button from being depressed when the
shift lever is in FORWARD or REVERSE gear. Starter Motor Turns Slowly
1. Make sure the battery is in acceptable condition and

2. An ignition switch is used in conjunction with a starter
fully charged.
button switch. The starter motor will only engage if the
2. Inspect all electrical connections for looseness or cor-
starter button is pushed and the ignition switch is in the ON
rosion. Clean and tighten as necessary.
(RUN) position. See Figure 22.
3. Check for the proper size and length of battery cables.
Refer to Table 4 for recommended minimum cable gauge
sizes and lengths. Replace cables that are undersize or
relocate the battery to shorten the distance between the
battery and starter solenoid.
4A. 90" V4, V6 and V8 engines-Disconnect and ground
the spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental
starting. Turn the flywheel clockwise by hand and check
for mechanical binding. If mechanical binding is evident,
remove the lower gearcase to determine if the binding is in
the power head or the lower gearcase. If no binding is
evident, continue to Step 5.
4B. 60" V4 and V6 engines-Disconnect and ground the
spark plug leads to the engine to prevent accidental start-
ing. Remove all of the spark plugs and the flywheel cover.
Using a suitable socket installed over the timing wheel
screw (at the very top of the engine), turn the engine
clockwise and check for mechanical binding. If mechani-
cal binding is evident, remove the lower gearcase to deter-
48 CHAPTER THREE
mine if the binding is in the power head or the lower 7. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished with the
gearcase. If no binding is evident, reinstall the spark plugs troubleshooting procedure.
and continue to Step 5.
5. Perform the starting system voltage drop test as de- Startr.ng system voltage drop test
scribed in the next section.
6. Check the starter motor no-load current draw and no- Excessive resistance in the battery cables, starter sole-
load speed as described in this chapter. noid and starter cable can restrict the current flow to the
VOLTAGE DROP TEST (POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE)
1
- Starter Starter battery
motor solenoid
@
VOLTAGE DROP TEST (STARTER SOLENOID)
TROUBLESHOOTING
starter, causing the starter to turn the motor slowly. Slow repair the terminal ends or replace the positive battery
cranking speed causes low ignition system output and cable.
subsequent hard starting.
Use the following procedure to determine if any of the CAUTION
Do not connect the positive voltmeter lead in
~
cables or the starter solenoid are the source of a voltage
Step 4 until afer the engine begins cranking.
drop. If the problem is intermittent, try gently pulling,
The open solenoid will read battery voltage
bending and flexing the cables and connections during the and could damage a voltmeter set to a very
test. Sudden voltmeter fluctuations indicate a poor connec- low voltage scale. In addition, disconnect the
tion has been located. voltmeter before stopping cranking.
Remember that a voltage drop test measures the differ-
ence in voltage from the beginning of a circuit or compo- 4. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to the starter side
nent to the end of the circuit or component. If there is of the solenoid as shown in Figure 25. Engage the electric
resistance in the circuit, the voltage at the end will be less starter. While the engine is cranking, touch the positive
than the voltage at the beginning. The circuit must be active voltmeter lead to the battery positive solenoid terminal as
to take a voltage drop reading (in this case the starter must shown in Figure 25. Note the meter reading, then remove
be engaged). A voltmeter reading of 0 means that no the voltmeter lead and discontinue cranking. If the meter
resistance is present in the test circuit. A reading of battery indicates more than 0.2 volts, the starter solenoid has
voltage means that the circuit is completely open (battery excessive internal resistance and must be replaced.
voltage going in and nothing coming out). 5. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter side
Refer to Figures 24-27 for this procedure. Clean, of the solenoid and the negative voltmeter lead to the starter
tighten, repair or replace any cable or solenoid with exces- motor terminal as shown in Figure 26. Engage the electric
sive voltage drop. starter and observe the meter. If the meter indicates more
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the than 0.2 volts, excessive resistance is detected in the starter
engine to prevent accidental starting. motor cable (or strap). Clean the connections, repair the
2. Connect the positive (red) voltmeter lead to the positive terminal ends or replace the starter motor cable (or strap).
battery tenninal and the negative (black) voltmeter lead to 6. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the engine end
the positive solenoid terminal as shown in Figure 24. of the negative battery cable and the negative voltmeter
3. Engage the electric starter and observe the meter. If the lead to the negative battery terminal as shown in Figure
meter indicates more than 0.3 volts, excessive resistance is 27. Engage the electric starter and observe the meter. If the
present in the positive battery cable. Clean the connections, meter indicates more than 0.3 volts, the battery negative
G3 VOLTAGE DROP TEST (STARTER CABLEISTRAP)
CHAPTER THREE I
cable has excessive resistance. Clean the connections, re- CAUTION

pair the terminal ends or replace the negative battery cable. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads
7. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished. to the engine to prevent accidental starting
during all test procedures. Make sure the
shift lever is in the NEUTRALposition before
Starter Motor Does Not Xrn
proceeding.
A test light or voltmeter are both acceptable tools for 1. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of
troubleshooting the starter circuit. If using a test light, first the battery and touch the test lamp probe to metal anywhere
connect the test light directly to the battery and observe the on the engine block. The test lamp must light. If the lamp
brightness of the bulb. You must reference the rest of your does not light or is dim, the battery ground cable connec-
readings against this test. If the bulb does not glow as tions are loose or corroded, or there is an open circuit in
brightly as when it was hooked directly to the battery, a the battery ground cable. Clean and tighten the connections
problem (excessive resistance) is indicated. or replace the negative battery cable as required.
If using a voltmeter, the meter must read within 1 volt 2. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground and
of the battery voltage when the text indicates that the test connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid input
lamp should light. terminal (1, Figure 28). The test lamp must light. If the
lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable
connections are loose or corroded, or there is an open
Remote control models circuit in the cable between the battery and the solenoid.
Clean and tighten connections or replace the positive bat-
Refer to Figure 28 for this procedure. Refer to the end tery cable as required.
of the book for wiring diagrams. On V8 models, a 20-amp 3. Connect the test lamp probe to the yellowlred terminal
circuit breaker is used instead of the fuse shown in Figure on the starter solenoid (7, Figure 28). With the ignition
28. switch turned to the START position observe the test lamp.
I VOLTAGE DROP TEST (NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE)
I I '
- -
~ngine 1
starter 12 volt
? motor solenoid battery
TROUBLESHOOTING
a. If the test lamp lights, the starter system's switching If there is any doubt as to the fuse's condition,
circuits are working correctly. Proceed to Step 11. replace the fuse.
b. If the test lamp does not light, an open circuit is c. Install the fuse into the fuse holder.
present in the starter system's switching circuits.
Proceed to Step 4A or Step 4B as appropriate. NOTE
4A. V4 and V6 models-Proceed as follows: The 20-amp circuit breaker on V8 models
has one red lead that connects directly to the
a. Remove the 20 amp fuse and connect the test lamp starter solenoid (battery positive) terminal
probe to the input side of the fuse holder (2, Figure and a second red lead that connects to the
28). The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace wiring harness's redpurple lead at a bullet
the red lead between the starter solenoid and the fuse connector very near the circuit breakei:
holder.
b. Test the 20 amp fuse with an ohmmeter calibrated 4B. V8 models-Disconnect the bullet connector on the
on the R x 1scale. The fuse must indicate continuity. output side of the 20-amp circuit breaker. Connect the test
STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

(REMOTE CONTROL MODELS)
-
- battery
Starter
Starter solenoid
motor
CHAPTER THREE
tenninal B (redpurple lead). See 3, Figure 28. The test

lamp probe to the red lead coming from the circuit breaker.
lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the redlpurple lead
The test lamp must light. If not, depress the circuit
between the six-pin Deutsch connector and the ignition
breaker's reset button. If the test lamp still does not light,
replace the circuit breaker assembly. Reconnect the bullet
switch.
connector when f i s h e d . 7. Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch
5A. 1995 models with traditional harnesses-Unplug the tenninal S (4, Figure 28). With the ignition switch turned
large, red, 10-pin main harness connector and connect the to the STARTposition,observe the test lamp. The test lamp
test light probe to the redpurple pin (1, Figure 29) of the must light. If not, replace the ignition switch.
engine side of the connector. The test lamp must light. If 8. Remove the cover from the remote control box and
not, repair or replace the redpurple lead between the fuse connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch side of
holder (or the circuit breaker's bullet connector on V8 the neutral safety switch (5, Figure 28). With the ignition
models) and the main engine harness connector. switch turned to the STARTposition, observe the test lamp.
5B. 1996-2002models with MWS harnesses-Unplug the The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the lead
six-pin Deutsch main harness connector and connect the between the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch.
test light probe to pin No. 5 (redpurple lead) of the engine
side of the connector. The test lamp must light. If not, re-
pair or replace the redpurple lead between the fuse holder
(or the circuit breaker's bullet connector [V8 models]) and
the six-pin Deutsch connector.
6A. 1995 models with traditional harnesses-Reconnect
the 10-pin main harness connector and gain access to the
rear of the ignition switch on the dash (or in the remote
control box). Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition
switch terminal B (redpurple lead). See 3, Figure 28. The
test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the redpurple
lead between the boat side of the main harness connector
and the ignition switch. Refer to Figure 30 for pin location
on the boat side of the main harness connector.
6B. 1996-2002 models with MWS harnesses-Reconnect
the six-pin Deutsch connector and gain access to the rear
of the ignition switch on the dash (or in the remote control
box). Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch
TROUBLESHOOTING
9. Move the test lamp probe to the solenoid side of the 14. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground.
neutral safety switch (6, Figure 28). With the ignition Connect the test lamp probe to the starter motor terminal
switch turned to the START position, the test lamp must (11, Figure 28). With the ignition switch turned to the
light. If not, make sure the shift control is still in neutral START position, the test lamp must light. If not, repair or
and retest. Replace the neutral safety switch if the lamp replace the cable between the starter solenoid and the
still does not light. starter motor. If the test lamp lights, proceed to Step 15.
10. Connect the test lamp probe to the yellowlred terminal 15. Remove the starter (Chapter Seven) and inspect for
on the starter solenoid (7, Figure 28). With the ignition paint or corrosion on the mounting bolts and bosses. If
switch turned to the START position, the test lamp must paint or corrosion is found, clean the mounting bolts and
light. If not, repair or replace the yellowlred lead between bosses and reinstall the starter and test starter engagement.
the neutral safety switch and the starter solenoid (this If the starter still will not engage, remove the starter for
includes the main harness connector). replacement or repair.
11. Connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid 16. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished.
terminal leading to the starter motor (8, Figure 28). With
the ignition switch turned to the START position, the test
lamp must light. If so, proceed to Step 14. If the test lamp Tiller handle models
does not light, proceed to Step 12.
Refer to Figure 31 for this procedure. Refer to the end
12. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive battery
of the book for individual model and complete system
terminal and connect the test lamp probe to the small black
wiring diagrams.
(ground) terminal of the starter solenoid (9, Figure 28).
The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the ground CAUTION
lead between the starter solenoid and the engine block (10, Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads
Figure 28). to the engine to prevent accidental starting
13. If the test lamp does not light in Step 11, but does light during all test procedures. Make sure the
in Step 12, replace the starter solenoid and retest starter shift lever is in the NEUTRALposition before
system operation. proceeding.
STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (TILLER HANDLE MODELS)
12-volt battery
Key (ignition) switch
CHAPTER THREE
1. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of must light. If not, repair or replace the purple lead between
the battery and touch the test lamp probe to metal anywhere the terminal block and the bullet connector.
on the engine block. The test lamp must light. If the lamp 9. Connect the test lamp probe to the yellowlred terminal
does not light or is dim, the battery ground cable connec- on the starter solenoid (6, Figure 31). With the ignition
tions are loose or corroded, or there is an open circuit in switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position and the starter
the battery ground cable. Clean and tighten the connections button depressed, the test lamp must light. If not, replace
or replace the battery cable as required. the push-button starter switch and its leads as an assembly.
2. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground and 10. Connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid
connect the test lamp probe to the starter solenoid input terminal leading to the starter motor (7, Figure 31). With
terminal (1, Figure 31). The test lamp must light. If the the ignition switchturned to the ON (or RUN) position a d
lamp does not light or is very dim, the battery cable the starter button depressed, the test lamp must light. If so,
connections are loose or corroded, or there is an open in proceed to Step 13. If the test lamp does not light, proceed
the cable between the battery and the solenoid. Clean and to Step 11.
tighten the connections or replace the battery cable as 11. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive battery
required. tenninal and connect the test lamp probe to the small black
3. Connect the test lamp probe to the yellowlred terminal (ground) terminal of the starter solenoid (8, Figure 31).
on the starter solenoid (6, Figure 31). Turn the ignition The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the ground
switch to the ON (or RUN) position and depress the starter lead between the starter solenoid and the engine block (9,
button while observing the test lamp. Figure 31).
a. If the test lamp lights, the starter system's switching 12. If the test lamp does not light in Step 10,but does light
circuits are working correctly. Proceed to Step 10. in Step 11, replace the starter solenoid and retest starter
b. If the test lamp does not light, an open circuit is system operation.
present in the starter system's switching circuits. 13. Connect the test lamp lead to a good engine ground.
4. Proceed as follows: Connect the test lamp probe to the starter motor terminal
a. Remove the 20 amp fuse and connect the test lamp (10, Figure 31). With the ignition switch turned to the ON
probe to the input side of the fuse holder (2, Figure (or RUN) position and the starter button depressed,the test
31). The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the cable between
the red lead between the starter solenoid and the fuse the starter solenoid and the starter motor. If the test lamp
holder. lights, proceed to Step 14.
b. Test the 20 amp fuse with an ohmmeter calibrated 14. Remove the starter (Chapter Seven) and inspect for
on the R x 1 scale. The fuse must indicate continuity. paint or corrosion on the mounting bolts and bosses. If
c. Install the fuse into the fuse holder. paint or corrosion is found, clean the mounting bolts and
5. Gain access to the rear of the ignition switch. Connect bosses and reinstall the starter and test starter engagement.
the test lamp probe to the ignition switch terminal B If the starter still will not engage, remove the starter for
(redpurple lead). See 3, Figure 31. The test lamp must replacement or repair.
light. If not, repair or replace the redlpurple lead between 15. Reconnect the spark plug leads when finished.
the fuse holder and the ignition switch. This includes
connections at the tenninal block and a four-pin Amphenol Push Button Starter Switch Test
connector. (Tiller Handle Models)
6. Connect the test lamp probe to the ignition switch
terminal A (purple lead). See 4, Figure 31. With the An ohmmeter is required for this procedure. Refer to the
ignition switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position, the back of the manual for wiring diagrams.
test lamp must light. If not, replace the ignition switch. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
7. Connect the test lamp probe to the purple lead terminal 2. Disconnect the starter switch yellowlred lead from the
at the terminal block (5, Figure 31). With the ignition starter solenoid (6, Figure 31) and the starter switch purple
switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position, the test lamp lead from the bullet connector between the tenninal block
must light. If not, repair or replace the purple lead between and the switch.
the ignition switch and the tenninal block. This includes a 3. Connect an ohmmeter calibrated on the R x 1 scale,
connection at a four-pin Amphenol connector. between the starter switch leads. The meter must read no
8. Disconnect the bullet connector in the purple lead be- continuity. Replace the start button if any other reading is
tween the starter button and the terminal block. The bullet noted.
connector is not shown in Figure 31. With the ignition 4. Depress the start button. The meter must read continu-
switch turned to the ON (or RUN) position, the test lamp ity. Replace the start button if no continuity is noted.
TROUBLESHOOTING
5. Reconnect all leads when f ~ s h e dConnect

. the nega- equipped with aftermarket controls and electrical har-
tive battery cable last. nesses.
NOTE
Ignition (Key) Switch Test This ~rocedurealso covers the innition
switches used on tiller handle models.
The following procedure tests the ignition switch on
models equipped with an OMC prewired remote control If so desired, on remote control models, the ignition
assembly or an OMC boat wiring harness with a dash- switch and main wiring harness can be quickly tested at
mounted ignition (key) switch. Most aftermarket prewired the boat side of the main engine harness connector, elimi-
remote controls and boat wiring harnesses use the same nating the need to disassemble the control box or remove
wire color codes, key switch functions and terminal iden- the key switch from the dash panel. To identlfy the correct
tlfication, but this test may not be valid on all models terminal pins (for the boat end of the connector) on a
traditional wiring harness, refer to Figure 30. On models
equipped with the modular wiring system (MWS) and
Deutsch connectors, the color codes of the leads and their
corresponding pin location in the connector body is self-
evident.
If you decide to test at the main harness connect!Jr,
connect the ohmmeter to the appropriate pins based on the
wire color codes called out in the following text. Testing
TRADITIONAL HARNESS at the engine harness connector will not isolate a bad
wiring harness from the key switch. If the switch and
harness fail the test procedure (at the main harness connec-
tor), disconnect the key switch and test the switch individu-
ally to verify that the main harness is not the problem. To
test the key switch alone, follow the procedure as written.
6
NOTE
On a traditional harness (using a dedicated
safety lanyard switch), the safety lanyard
must be installed on the safety lanyard switch
to pe$orm the tests at the main harness
MWS HARNESS connector The safety lanyard switch is con-
nected between the blacWyellow and black
leads of the ignition switch (both M termi-
nals). gthe lanyard is removed, an ohmme-
6 ter connected between the blacWyellow and
black pins of the main harness connector
2 must show continuity, regardless of the igni-
tion switch position. I f the lanyard is in-
stalled and the switch is functioning
correctly, the ignition switch will test as de-
scribed in the following procedure.
4 CAUTION
On ring terminal style switches, generally
used on 1995 models, the blacWyellow lead
must be connected to the terminal that is
elevated and pointing rearward (not toward
the side like the remaining terminals). This
terminal is shown at 2, Figure 32 under
Traditional harness.
CHAPTER THREE
Use an ohmmeter calibrated on the R x 1 scale to test the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
key switch circuits. Refer to Figure 32 for this procedure. 2. Gain access to the key switch and disconnect the leads
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. from the key switch terminals. Note the color code and
2. Gain access to the key switch and disconnect the leads terminal markings of aftermarket switches.
from the key switch terminals. Note the color code and 3. Calibrate the condenser tester to check for condenser
terminal markings of after-market switches. leakage. Follow its manufacturer's instructions.
3. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to the ignition switch 4. Connect the black lead of the condenser tester to the M
B terminal (redpurple lead) and the other ohmmeter lead terminal that the blacWyellow lead connects to (Figure
to the A terminal (purple lead). When the switch is in the 31). Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF or STOP
OFF position, no continuity must be noted. position.
4. Turn the switch to the ON or RUN position. The ohm- 5. Alternately connect the red lead of the condenser tester
meter must indicate continuity. to each of the remaining ignition switch terminals (except
5. Turn the switch to the START or CRANK position. The the other M terminal) and test each terminal for leakage.
ohmmeter must indicate continuity. No leakage must be noted at each of the A, B, C and S
6. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to the B terminal terminals when the switch is in the OFF or STOPposition.
(redfpurple lead) and the other ohmmeter lead to the S 6. Turn the switch to the ON or RUN position. Connect
terminal (yellowlred lead). When the switch is in the OFF the red lead of the condenser tester to the remaining M
position, no continuity must be noted. (black or blacklwhite lead) terminal. Test this terminal for
7. Turn the switch to the START or CRANK position. The leakage. No leakage must be noted between the two M
ohmmeter must indicate continuity. terminals when the switch is in the ON or RUN position.
8. Turn the switch to the OFF or STOP position. Connect 7. Replace the ignition (key) switch if it does not perform
one ohmmeter lead to an M terminal (blacWyellow lead) as specified.
and the other ohmmeter lead to the other M terminal (black 8. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
lead). See Figure 31. The ohmmeter must indicate conti- tive battery cable last.
nuity.
9. While watching the meter, turn the switch to the ON
(RUN) and START (CRANK) positions. The ohmmeter Neutral Safety Switch Tests
must read no continuity in both positions.
10. Turn the switch to the OFF or STOPposition. Connect The purpose of the neutral safety switch is to allow
one ohmmeter lead to the B terminal (redpurple lead) and starter engagement only when the shift lever is in the
the other ohmmeter lead to the C terminal (purplelwhite NEUTRAL position. The starter must not be able to en-
lead). The ohmmeter must read no continuity. gage when the shift lever (gearcase) is in either the FOR-
11. Turn the switch to the ON or RUN position. The WARD or REVERSE position.
ohmmeter must read no continuity. Press in on the key to On tiller handle models, a mechanical linkage is used to
engage the CHOKE or PRIME position. The ohmmeter prevent the starter button from being depressed when the
must read continuity in the CHOKE or PRIME position. shift linkage is in FORWARD or REVERSE gear. Refer to
12. Turn the switch to the START or CRANK position. Chapter Seven for neutral safety switch and mechanical
The ohmmeter must read no continuity. Press in on the key linkage adjustment procedures.
to engage the CHOKE or PRIME position. The ohmmeter Remote control models require remote control shift ca-
must read continuity in the CHOKE or PRIME position. ble adjustment to ensure proper operation. See Chapter
13. Replace the ignition (key) switch if it does not perform Twelve for shift cable adjustments. The shift cable must be
as specified. adjusted anytime it, the gearcase or the control box has
14. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega- been removed, repaired or replaced, or if improper opera-
tive battery cable last. tion is noted.
Ignition (Key) Switch Leakage Test Remote control models

Under some conditions, it is possible for the ignition (boat harness and switch test)
switch to allow the high voltage present in the stop circuit CAUTION
(blacWyellow) lead to leak to the other terminals in the key Moving the shift lever into FORWARD or
switch, but not show up during the ohmmeter test. To test REVERSE gear when the engine is not run-
for leakage, obtain a condenser tester and proceed as ning can damage the control box, shift cable
follows: and gearcase. Have an assistant rotate the
TROUBLESHOOTING
propeller when it is necessary to shiji the 4. Turn the ignition (key) switch to the START position
gearcase when the engine is not running. while noting the meter reading. The meter must indicate
continuity.
The neutral safety switch is located in the control box. 5. While an assistant is rotating the propeller, position the
If the engine will crank with the control lever in the shift lever in the FORWARD gear position.
NEUTRAL position, but will not crank with the control 6. Turn the ignition (key) switch to the START position
lever in the FORWARD or REVERSE position, the neutral while noting the meter reading. The meter must indicate
safety switch is functioning correctly. no continuity.
Test the switch and boat harness using an ohmmeter. 7. Whlle an assistant is rotating the propeller, position the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery shift lever in the REVERSE gear position.
and position the remote control shift lever in the NEU- 8. Turn the ignition (key) switch to the START position
TRAL position. while noting the meter reading. The meter must indicate
2A. Traditional harness-Disconnect the large, red, 10- no continuity.
pin main harness connector from the engine. 9. If the test results are not as specified, either the boat
2B. Modular wiring system (MWS) hamess-Remove the wiring harness or the neutral safety switch are defective.
connector box cover and disconnect the six-pin Deutsch Test the isolated neutral safety switch as described in the
main harness connector from the engine. See Figure 32, next section. If the switch tests are satisfactory,there is an
typical. open circuit or high resistance in the boat harness yel-
3A. Traditional harness--Connect an ohmmeter, cali- lowlred or redpurple leads. Repair or replace the harness
brated on the R x 1 scale, to the boat side of the main as necessary.
harness connector as shown in Figure 33. 10. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
3B. MWS harness--Connect an ohmmeter, calibrated on tive battery cable last.
the R x 1scale, to the yellowlred (pin No. 2) and redpurple
(pin No. 5) terminals of the main harness connector (boat
side).
Remote control models (isolated switch test)
To test only the neutral safety switch, proceed as follows:

I
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery
and position the remote control shift lever in the NEU-
TRAL position.
Ohmmeter 2. Open the control box to gain access to the switch.
3. Disconnect both yellowlred leads from the switch.
ff 3-
4. Connect an ohmmeter calibrated on the R x 1 scale to
the switch terminals.
NOTE
The switch plunger must be depressed in
NEUTRAL and extended in FORWARD and
REVERSE.
Yellowlred pin 5. Depress the switch; the ohmmeter must indicate conti-
nuity.
6. Release (extend) the switch; the ohmmeter must indi-
cate no continuity.
7. Replace the switch if it does not perform as specified.
8. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
tive battery cable last.
Starter Solenoid Bench Test

Boat side of main
harness connector NOTE
All engine wiring hamess leads must be dis-
connectedfrom the solenoidfor this test.
CHAPTER THREE
Solenoid style varies from engine to engine, but all the Frahm Reed Tachometer can be used for this test.)
solenoids have two large terminal studs and two small Simply hold the tachometer against the starter frame while 1
terminal studs. Refer to Figure 34 for a typical solenoid the starter is running to measure the rpm. A stroboscopic
location. tachometer may also be used, but remember to make a1
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. reference mark on the starter drive (pinion gear) before i
2. Disconnect all leads from the solenoid terminal studs. beginning the test. Another option is to use a tachometer
If necessary, remove the solenoid from the engine. designed for model airplane engines, available from most I
3. Connect an ohmmeter (calibrated on the R x 1 scale) to hobby shops. This type of tachometer is simply held 1
the two large terminal studs as shown in Figure 35, typical. against the end of the starter drive to measure the rpm.
The ohmmeter must indicate no continuity. 1. Remove the starter motor assembly from the power
4. Attach a 12-voltbattery (with suitablejumper leads) to head (Chapter Seven). Securely fasten the starter motor in
the two small terminal studs as shown in Figure 35, typical a vise or other suitable holding fixture. Do not damage the
(polarity is not important). An audible cIick should be starter motor by crushing it in the vise.
heard if the solenoid engages. The ohmmeter must now
indicate continuity.
5. Replace the solenoid if it does not function as specified.
2. Obtain a fully charged startingbattery with a minimum
rating of 500 cold cranking amps (CCA), 650 marine
cranking amps (MCA) or 60 ampere-hours. The battery (
I,
6. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega- must be in good condition for the test results to be accurate. (
3. Connect a suitable voltmeter to the battery as shown in i
Figure 36. 1
Starter Motor No-Load Current Draw Test
CAUTION
If starter system troubleshooting indicates that addi- Make sure the ammeter used in the next step
tional starter motor tests are necessary, use the starter is of suficient capacity to measure the ex-
no-load current draw test as an indicator of internal starter
condition. A clamp-on or inductive ammeter, if available,
is simplest to use as no electrical connections are required.
Make sure that the ammeter being used can read higher
than the anticipated highest amp reading (Table 9).
The starter motor speed must be measured during the
no-load current draw test. A vibration tachometer, such as
TROUBLESHOOTING
pected amperage draw (Table 9) with an 4B. Inductive or clamp-on ammeter-Using heavy gauge
adequate safety margin. For example, if the battery cables or jumper cables, connect the positive bat-
expected amperage draw is 30 amps, use a tery terminal and the starter motor terminal. Then install
50 amp or larger ammetel: the clamp-on or inductive ammeter over this cable. Then
connect another heavy gauge battery cable or jumper cable
4A. Conventional Ammeter-Using heavy gauge battery to the negative battery terminal, but do not connect this
cables or jumper cables, connect a conventional ammeter cable to the starter at this time. Use Figure 36 as a refer-
in series with the positive battery cable and the starter ence.
motor terminal (Figure 36). Then connect another heavy
gauge battery cable or jumper cable to the negative battery WARNING
terminal, but do not connect this cable to the starter at this Make the last battery connection to the
starter frame in Step 4. DO NOT create any
time.
sparks at or near a battery or a serious
explosion could occul:
NOTE
The battery must maintain at least 12.0-12.4
volts during the test. Ifthe voltagefalls below
this range, yet the current draw does not
exceed spec$ication (Table9), the battery is
Ammeter Voltmeter defective or not of suflcient capacityfor the
test.
5. When ready to perform the no-load test, prepare a

tachometer for the rpm measurement, then quickly and
firmly connect the remaining cable to the starter motor
frame (Figure 36). Note the amperage and rpm readings,
verify the voltage range, then disconnect the jumper cable
from the starter motor frame.
6. If the motor does not perform to specification (Table
9), the motor must be repaired or replaced. See Chapter
Seven. Refer to Table 5 for additional starter motor symp-
toms and remedies.
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM
Description
An alternator charging system is standard on all models.

The purpose of the charging system is to keep the battery
fully charged and supply current to power accessories.
Charging systems can be divided into two basic designs:
6-amp unregulated systems and 9, 10, 20 and 35-amp
regulated systems. Refer to Table 10 for charging system
identification and stator resistance specifications and Ta-
ble 11for charging system output specifications.
All systems use permanent magnets mounted in the
flywheel (Figure 37) and a stator coil mounted to the
power head. As the flywheel rotates, the magnetic fields in
the flywheel pass through the stator coil windings, induc-
ing AC (alternating current). The stator windings are an
integral part of the stator assembly (also containing igni-
tion system windings) on all systems.Unregulated systems
use a rectifier (a series of two positive and two negative
CHAPTER THREE
diodes) to change the AC current to DC (direct current). CAUTION

See Figure 38. The output from an unregulated charging an outboard motor equipped with an un-
system is directly proportional to efigine speed. Because a regulated charging system must be operated
non-regulated system has the potential to overcharge the with its battery removed or disconnected,
battery during long periods of wide-open throttle opera- insulate the positive battery cable end to
prevent it from contacting the negative bat-
tion, maintenance-free batteries are not recommended.
tery cable or engine ground. Never operate
Overcharging a battery causes the electrolyte level to drop, an outboard motor equipped with a regu-
leading to premature battery failure. Vented batteries that lated charging system with its battery re-
allow removal of the vent caps and refilling of the electro- moved.
lyte (as needed) will provide longer service life.
Regulated systems use the same type flywheel magnets
and stator coil windings as the non-regulated system, with System Inspection (All Models)
the rectifier being replaced with a rectifierlregulator. The
rectifier portion of the rectifierlregulator changes the AC Before performing the troubleshootingprocedure, check
current to DC current, while the regulator portion monitors the following:
system voltage and controls the charging system output 1. Make sure the battery is properly connected. If the
accordingly. battery polarity is reversed, the Frectifier or rectifierlregu-
lator will be damaged.
Batteries that are maintained at 13-15 volts will stay fully
charged without excessiveventing. The regulator controls the 2. Check for loose or corroded connections. A terminal
strip or bullet connectors are used on all charging system
output of the charging system to keep system voltage at
connections. Clean, tighten, repair or replace as necessary.
approximately 14.5 volts. The large red lead of the recti-
Replace battery wing nuts with corrosion resistant hex nuts
fierlregulator is DC output and also functions as the sense
and lockwashers. Place the lockwasher under the battery
terminal, allowing the regulator portion to monitor system
cable as shown in Figure 39. Loose battery cable connec-
voltage. A purple lead is used to supply key-switched battery tions will cause a charging system failure.
positive voltage to turn the rectifierlregulator on and off with
engine operation. Since the regulator generates considerable 3. Check the rectifier (or rectifierlregulator) mounting
heat during operation, the regulator is water cooled. Cast-in hardware for corrosion, evidence of electrical arcing and
loose fasteners. These components are grounded through
cooling fins (or rods) are used to transfer the heat from the
their mounting hardware. The mounting screws and bosses
regulator to the power head's water jacket.
must be free of paint and corrosion and the screws must be
Another function of the charging system is to provide securely tightened. Loose mounting screws will cause
the signal for the tachometer. The tachometer simply erratic operation and premature failure.
counts AC voltage pulses coming out of the stator before 4. Check the battery condition. Recharge or replace the
the AC voltage is rectified to DC. Tachometer failure is battery as necessary.
related to the charging system, not the ignition system. The 5. Check the wiring harness between the stator and battery
tachometer connects to stator yellowlgray lead on unregu- for cut, chafed or deteriorated insulation and corroded,
lated systems, or the rectifierlregulator gray lead on regu- loose or disconnected connections. Repair or replace the
lated models. wiring harness as necessary.
A malfunction in the charging system generally causes
the battery to be undercharged and the tachometer to read
erratically or totally fail. The following conditions will
result in rectifier, rectifierlregulator or external alternator
failure.
1. Reversing the battery leads.
2. Disconnecting the battery leads while the engine is
running.
3. Loose connections in the charging system circuits, in-
cluding battery connectionsand ground circuits. Wing nuts
are not acceptable fasteners for battery connections. Use
corrosion resistant hex nuts and lockwashers.
TROUBLESHOOTING
6. Visually inspect the stator windings for discoloration ammeter reading exceeds the rated capacity of the charging
and burned windings. Replace any stator that shows evi- system, reduce the accessory load connected to the charg-
dence of overheating. ing system.
CAUTION
Unless otherwise noted, peijorm all voltage 6 Amp Unregulated Models
tests with the leads connected, with the ter-
minals exposed to accommodate test lead Refer to Table 10 and Table 11 for specifications and
connection. All electrical components must the end of the book for wiring diagrams.
be securely grounded to the power head any
time the engine is cranked or started, or the NOTE
components will be damaged. Ifa clamp-on or inductive ammeter is being
used, install the probe on the rectiper red
lead and go directly to Step 4.
Current Draw Test
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
Use this test to determine if the total load of the engine 2. Install a conventional ammeter as follows:
electrical system and boat accessories exceed the capacity a. Remove the rectifier red lead from the terminal strip.
of the charging system. Then reinstall the screw to secure the engine harness
red lead to the terminal strip.
NOTE b. Connect an ammeter of sufficient size to measure the
Ifa clamp-on or inductive ammeter is being maximum rated output of the charging system be-
used, install the probe on the positive battery
tween the rectifier red lead and its corresponding
cable (near the battery) and go directly to
Step 3. If a conventional ammeter is being engine harness red lead. Connect the red lead of the
used, make sure the ammeter is rated for at ammeter to the rectifier red lead and the black lead
least 20 amps. of the ammeter to the engine harness red lead at the
terminal strip.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. c. Make sure the c o ~ e c t i o n are
s secure and insulated
2. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery. from any other leads or grounds.
Securely connect a suitable ammeter between the positive 3. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
battery post and the positive battery cable. Reconnect the 4. Install a shop tachometer according to its manufac-
negative battery cable. turer's instructions.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (RUN) and turn on all
accessories. Note the ammeter reading. Turn the ignition CAUTION
switch OFF (STOP) and turn off all accessories. If the Do not run the engine without an adequate
water supply and do not exceed 3000 rpm
without an adequate load. Refer to Safety
Precautions at the beginning of this chaptel:
5. Start the engine and run it as specified in Table 11 while
observing the ammeter. If amperage output is less than
specified, continue with Step 6. If amperage output is
within specification, the charging system is functioning
correctly.
6. To check theresistance of the stator, proceed as follows:
a. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Then discon-
nect the yellow and yellow gray stator leads from the
terminal strip.
b. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the lowest scale possible.
Then connect the ohmmeter red lead to the stator's
yellow lead and the ohmmeter black lead to the
stator's yellow/gray lead. The meter must indicate
1.2-1.4 ohms.
c. Replace the stator coil if it does not perform as
specified.
CHAPTER THREE
7. To perform the stator short-to-ground test, proceed as ter lead to the battery positive terminal and the other
follows: ohmmeter lead to the engine harness red lead that con-
a. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the highest scale avail- nected to the rectifier red lead. Note the ohmmeter reading.
able. Connect the ohmmeter black lead to a clean A good circuit will read continuity (very low resistance).
engine ground. If the stator is removed, connect the If not, repair or replace the red lead andlor connections
ohmmeter to the stator's metal laminations (mount- between the rectifier and the battery.
ing screw bore). 11. Reconnect all leads when finished.
b. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to the stator yellow
lead. The meter must read no continuity. If continu-
ity is noted, inspect the yellow lead for damaged 9,10,20 and 35 Amp Regulated Models
insulation and repair if possible. If the lead is not
damaged, replace the stator coil (or stator assembly). Refer to Table 10 and Table 11 for specifications and
Repeat this step for the stator yellowlgray lead. Both the end of the book for wiring diagrams.
stator leads must have no continuity to ground.
8. To check the positive diodes in the rectifier, proceed as
follows:
a. Disconnect all rectifier leads (red, yellow and yel-
lowlgray). Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropri-
@ (TYPICAL
AMMETER INSTALUTlON
REGULATED SYSTEM)
ate scale to test diodes.
b. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to the rectifier red
lead and the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier
yellow lead. Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the
ohmmeter leads and note the reading. The reading
must be high in one polarity and low in the other.
c. Reconnect the ohmmeter red lead to the rectifier red
lead and move the ohmmeter black lead to the recti-
fier yellowlgray lead. Note the ohmmeter reading.
Reverse the ohmmeter leads and note the reading.
The reading must be high in one polarity and low in
the other.
d. If the reading is high in both polarities or low in both
polarities on any test, replace the rectifier.
9. To check the negative diodes in the rectifier, proceed as
follows:
a. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to a good engine
ground. If the rectifier is removed, connect the ohm-
meter red lead to the rectifier's metal case. Connect
the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier yellow lead.
Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the ohmmeter
leads and note the reading. The reading must be high
in one polarity and low in the other. solenoid
b. Reconnect the ohmmeter red lead to ground. Move
the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier yellowlgray
lead. Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the ohm-
meter leads and note the reading. The reading must
be high in one polarity and low in the other.
c. If the reading is high in both polarities or low in both
polarities on any tests, replace the rectifier.
10. To check the continuity of the rectifier red lead back
to the battery, make sure the negative lead of the battery is
disconnected. Disconnect the rectifier red lead from its
engine harness bullet connector or terminal strip. Calibrate
the ohmmeter on a high ohms scale. Connect one ohmme-
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE NOTE
A regulated charging system only outputs the Loose or corroded battery connections
current necessary to maintain 14.5 volts at a d o r bad battery cables can cause inaccu-
the battery. v t h e battery isfully charged the rate results in the next test. Make sure the
alternator will not produce its rated output cables are in nood shape and that all con- I
unless enough accessory demand is present. nections are clean and tight.
Ifa clamp-on or inductive ammeter is used,
install the probe on the rectz$er/regulator 7. To test the rectifierlregulator excite and sense circuits,
red lead and go directly to Step 4. proceed as follows:
a. Connect the black lead of the voltmeter to the nega-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. tive battery terminal.
2. Refer to Figure 40 and install a conventional ammeter b. Connect the voltmeter red lead to the red lead at the
as follows: tenninal strip or rectifierlregulator bullet connector.
a. Remove the rectifierlregulator red lead from the The voltmeter must read battery voltage. If the volt-
terminal strip (or the starter solenoid). Then reinstall meter indicates a difference of more than 0.5 volt
the screw to secure the engine harness red lead to the below battery voltage, clean and tighten the connec-
terminal strip (or retighten the nut to hold the battery tions, or repair or replace the red lead between the
cable to the starter solenoid). terminal strip (or bullet connector) and the starter
b. Connect an ammeter of sufficient size to measure the solenoid.
maximum rated output of the charging system in c. Move the voltmeter red lead to the purple lead at thk
between the rectifierlregulator red lead and its cor- tenninal strip or rectifierlregulator bullet connector.
responding engine harness red lead (or the starter Turn the ignition (key) switch to the ON or RUN
solenoid terminal). Connect the red lead of the am- position and note the meter reading. The voltmeter
meter to the rectifierlregulator'~red lead and the must read battery voltage. If the voltmeter indicates
black lead of the ammeter to the engine harness red a difference of more than 1.0 volt below battery
lead at the tenninal strip. See Figure 40. voltage, clean and tighten the connections, or repair
c. Make sure the connections are secure and insulated or replace the purple lead between the terminal strip
from any other leads or grounds. (or bullet connector) and the ignition switch. 1
3. Reconnect the negative battery cable. d. If the voltage on both the red and purple leads is as
4. Install a shop tachometer according to its manufac- specified. I
turer's instructions. 8. To check the resistance of the stator,proceed as follows:

5. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals. a. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Then discon-
nect the yellow and yellowlgray stator leads from tlie
I
CAUTION terminal strip or the large, locking two-pin connec-
Do not run the engine without an adequate tor.
water supply and do not exceed 3000 T m b. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the appropriate scale to
without an adequate load. Refer to Safety read the specifications listed in Table 10. Connect
Precautions at the beginning of this chaptel: one lead of the ohmmeter to each of the stator leads.
Note the reading.
6. Start the engine and run it as specified in Table 11while
noting both the ammeter and voltmeter readings. If the c. The stator resistance must be within specifications
voltage exceeds 12.5volts, turn on the accessories or attach (Table 10). If it is not, replace the stator assembly.
the accessories to the battery to maintain battery voltage at 9. To check the stator for a short-to-ground, proceed as
12.5 volts or less. If amperage output is less than specified, follows:
continue at Step 7. If amperage output is within specifica- a. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the highest scale possi-
tion, turn off or disconnect the accessories and run the ble. Connect the ohmmeter black lead to a clean
engine at approximately 3000 rpm whle observing the engine ground. If the stator is removed, connect the
voltmeter. As the battery approaches full charge the voltage ohmmeter to the stator's metal laminations (mount-
must rise to approximately 14.5 volts and stabilize. If the ing screw bore).
voltage stabilizes at approximately 14.5 volts, the voltage b. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to the stator yelldw
regulator is functioning correctly. If the voltage exceeds 15 lead. The meter must read no continuity. If continu-
volts, go to Step 9 and test the stator for a short-to-ground. ity is noted, inspect the yellow lead for damaged
If the stator tests satisfactorily,replace the rectifierlregula- insulation and repair if possible. If the lead is m t
tor. damaged, replace the stator assembly. I
CHAPTER THREE
c. Repeat this step for the stator yellowlgray leads. c. If voltage is still indicated, the engine andlor boat
Both stator leads must indicate no continuity to wiring harness has a short-to-power between the
ground. gray lead and the red, redlpurple or purple leads.
10. If all ohmmeter and voltage tests have been satisfac- Isolate and repair or replace the defective harness.
tory to this point, yet the system does not perform as
described in Step 6, replace the rectifierlregulator. CAUTION
Do not run the engine without an adequate
11. Reconnect all leads when finished.
water supply and do not exceed 3000 ipm
Rectfier/Regulator Tachometer Circuit Tests Precautions tzt the beginning of this chaptel:
5. With the engine running at 1000 rpm in NEUTRAL,
If the tachometer fails to operate correctly, the recti-
measure the voltage at the tachometer's gray lead terminal
fierlregulatormay not be sending a good tachometer signal
as described in Step 3. The meter must indicate no more
through the gray lead. The followingprocedure is intended than 8 volts.
to determine if a good signal is being sent to the tachome-
a. If the meter indicates 0 volts, check the continuity of
ter. If any charging system related symptom is present, the gray lead from the rectifierlregulator to the ta-
troubleshoot that symptom first as described in the pre- chometer. Repair or replace the gray lead as neces-
vious section before attempting to diagnosethe tachometer sary. If the gray lead has continuity, replace the
symptom. rectifierlregulator.
A voltmeter capable of measuring peak volts is required b. If the voltmeter shows more than 8 volts, replace the
to check the tachometer circuit voltages. A conventional tachometer.
voltmeter will not work. OMC specifically recommends 6. If the voltage in Step 5 is more than zero, but less than
one of the following peak voltage meters: the Stevens eight volts, proceed as follows:
Instruments CD-77 or the Mercotronic 781. If any other a. Disconnect the gray lead from the tachometer and
meter is used, it must provide equivalent readings to these retest the gray lead voltage at 1000 rpm. Voltage
meters. Refer to the end of the book for wiring diagrams. must increase by approximately 1 volt over the
1. Venfy that the tachometer is receiving battery voltage amount noted in Step 5. If the voltage increases by
(or within 1.0 volt of battery voltage) at its purple lead more than approximately 1 volt, replace the ta-
terminal when the ignition switch is in the ON or RUN chometer.
position. Repair the purple lead ignition switch, 20 amp b. Disconnect the four-pin Amphenol connector from
fuse or applicable connectors, as necessary. the oil injection pump and retest the gray lead volt-
2. Verify that the tachometer black lead has continuity to age at 1000 rpm. Voltage must increase by approxi-
the negative battery terminal using an ohmmeter or test mately 2 volts over the amount noted in Step 5. If the
light. Repair the black lead and applicable connectors as voltage increases by more than approximately 2
necessary. volts, replace the pump's circuit board or replace the
3. Set the peak-reading voltmeter to positive (POS) polar- pump as an assembly.
ity and the 50-volt range. Connect the red meter lead to the c. Disconnect the tachometer gray lead and the oil
tachometer's gray lead terminal and the black meter lead injection pump at the same time and retest the gray
to the tachometer's black lead terminal. lead voltage at 1000 rpm. Voltage must increase by
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON or RUN position, but approximately 3 volts over the amount noted in Step
do not start the engine. Note the meter reading. The meter 5. If the voltage increases by more than approxi-
must indicate 0 volts. If the meter indicates any voltage, mately 3 volts, replace the rectifierlregulator.
perform the following until the defect is located. Once the 7. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
meter reads 0 volts, proceed to Step 5. tive battery cable last.
a. Disconnect the rectifierlregulator gray lead from the
engine's tenninal strip or rectifierlregulator bullet Stator Resistance Test
connector. If the meter now indicates 0 volts, replace
the rectifierlregulator. To check the resistance of the stator, proceed as follows:
b. Disconnect the four-pin Amphenol connector from 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Then disconnect
the oil injection pump. If the meter now indicates 0 the yellow and yellowlgray stator leads from the terminal
volts, repair the four-pin connector, replace the strip or the large, locking two-pin connector.
pump's circuit board or replace the pump as an 2. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the appropriate scale to read
assembly. the specification listed in Table 10. Connect one lead of
TROUBLESHOOTING
the ohmmeter to each of the stator leads. Note the reading. a. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to a good engine
The reading must be within specifications (Table 10). ground. If the rectifier is removed, connect the ohm-
3. Replace the stator coil if it does not perform as speci- meter red lead to the rectifier's metal case. Connect
fied. the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier yellow lead.
4. Leave the stator leads disconnected and perform the Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the ohmmeter
stator short-to-ground test as described in the next section. leads and note the reading. The reading must be high
in one polarity and low in the other.
b. Reconnect the ohmmeter red lead to ground. Move
Stator Short-To-Ground Test the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier yellowlgray
lead. Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the ohm-
Perform this test only after performing the Stator resis- meter leads and note the reading. The reading must
tance tests. To perform the stator short-to-ground test, be high in one polarity and low in the other.
proceed as follows: c. If the reading is high in both polarities or low in both
1. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the highest scale available. polarities on any test, the rectifier must be replaced.
Connect the ohmmeter black lead to a clean engine ground. 5. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
If the stator is removed, connect the ohmmeter to the tive battery cable last.
stator's metal laminations (mounting screw bore).
2. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to the stator yellow
lead. The meter must read no continuity. If continuity is ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES
noted, inspect the yellow lead for damaged insulation and
The wiring harness used between the ignition switch and
repair if possible. If the lead is not damaged, replace the
stator assembly. Repeat this step for the stator yellowlgray outboard motor is adequate to handle the electrical require-
leads. All stator leads must not have continuity to ground. ments of the outboard motor. It will not handle the electri-
cal requirements of accessories. Whenever an accessory is
3. Reconnect all leads when finished. Connect the nega-
added, run new wiring between the battery and the acces-
sory, and install a separate fuse panel on the instrument
panel.
Rectifier Ohmmeter Test If the ignition switch requires replacement, never install
(Unregulated 6 Amp Models) an automotive-type switch. Use only a switch approved for
marine use.
1. To check the positive and negative diodes in the rectifier
(Figure 38), disconnect the negative battery cable. Then
disconnect all of the rectifier leads (red, yellow and yel- WARNING SYSTEMS
lowlgray) from the terminal strip.
Two types of warning systems are used on the models
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale to test
diodes. covered in this manual. The 1995 engines are intended to
be used with traditional wiring harnesses, which use only a
3. To check the positive diodes in the rectiiier, proceed as
warning horn. The 1996-2002 engines are intended to be
follows:
used with the Modular Wiring Harness (MWS) and the
a. Connect the ohmmeter red lead to the rectifier red
system check engine monitoring gauge which uses warn-
lead and the ohmmeter black lead to the rectifier
ing lights and a warning horn.
yellow lead. Note the ohmmeter reading. Reverse the
Adaptor kits are available from OMC Genuine Parts to
ohmmeter leads and note the reading. The reading
must be high in one polarity and low in the other. allow the use of theMWS and systemcheck gauge on 1995
models and to allow the use of a traditional wiring harness
b. Reconnect the ohmmeter red lead to the rectifier red
on 1996-2002models. For additional information, refer to
lead and move the ohmmeter black lead to the recti-
Wiring Harnesses located in this chapter.
fier yellowlgray lead. Note the ohmmeter reading.
Reverse the ohmmeter leads and note the reading.
The reading must be high in one polarity and low in Tkaditional Wiring Harness
the other. (1995 Models)
c. If the reading is high in both polarities or low in both
polarities on any test, replace the rectifier. The warning system used on 1995models equipped with
4. To check the negative diodes in the rectifier, proceed as a traditional wiring harness provides the operator with
follows: audible warning signals only. The system can warn the
CHAPTER THREE
operator of engine overheat, oil pump failure (no oil) and 6. On all models except the 90" V4 (cross-flow) models,
low oil level in the remote oil tank. Each warning signal is a blocking diode is used in the engine harness tan lead to
unique, and must be correctly identified by the operator. prevent the horn's self-test and other warning signals from
The four signals produced by the warning horn are as activating the SLOW (Speed Limiting Overheat Warning)
follows: program in the power pack (ignition module). The SLOW
system must only activate if the engine is actually over-
NOTE heating and the temperature switch is closed, shorting the
The no oil and low oil warning signals only tan lead to ground. The diode is positioned in the tan lead,
apply to engines equipped with an oil injec- near the large, red, 10-pin main harness connector. Testing
tion system. of the blocking diode is covered in the appropriate Ignition
section of this chapter. Refer to the end of the book for
1. Engine overheat-An overheating engine will produce
wiring diagrams.
a constant horn signal. I f the overheat signal occurs, reduce
engine speed to idle and check the water discharge indica-
tor for a steady stream of water, indicating that the water Testing the warning horn 1
pump is operating. If adequate water discharge is not noted
at the discharge indicator, shift the gearcase into reverse The warning horn must sound whenever the horn's tan
and briefly apply throttle to clear any debris that may be lead is grounded and the ignition switch is in the ON or
covering the water intake screens. I f the overheat signal is RUN position. To prevent possible power head damage,
still sounding, andlor water discharge is not noted at the test the warning horn at the beginning of each boating
discharge indicator, stop the engine and allow it to cool.
season and periodically during the season. The horn is
Then, determine and correct the cause of the overheat
most quickly tested at the engine temperature switch,
condition.
located near the top of the cylinder head on all models.
2. No oil (oil pump failure&If the motion sensor in the
oil injection pump detects that the oil pump is not pumping The warning horn's black lead is only needed for the
oil, the warning system will produce an urgent, pulsing self-test function and only indicates that the switch is
horn. The engine must be immediately stopped and the receiving power and ground. The following test makes sure
remote oil tank's oil level checked. I f the oil level in the that the boat and engine harness's tan lead has continuity
remote oil tank is satisfactory,the engine must be operated and that the warning horn will sound if the tan lead is
on a premixed 50: 1 ratio fudoil mixture until the cause of grounded. To manually test the warning horn, refer to the
the warning can be determined. Refer to Chapter Eleven end of the book for wiring diagrams and proceed as fol-
for oil injection system troubleshooting procedures. lows:
3. Low oil level-This warning is indicated by a single
beep of the horn, approximately once every 40 seconds. A NOTE
float switch in the remote oil tank activates the warning A temperature switch is used on each cylin-
program in the oil tank whenever the oil level drops to der head. Test both switches in the following
procedure. Models equipped with QuikStart
approximately 113to 114 of the tank capacity. The warning (Table 12) use a switch with two leads on one
circuits in the oil tank hold the tank's tan lead to the tank's cylinder head.
black lead briefly every 40 seconds, sounding the horn. The
horn will continue to sound once every 40 seconds, until 1. Disconnect both cylinder head temperature switches at
the oil tank is refilled. the one-pin Amphenol connector, bullet connector or two-
4. Self-test-The warning horn performs a brief self-test pin Amphenol connector. On some models the connector
each time the key is turned to the ON or RUN position. The is under the electrical component access cover on the
self-test sounds a single beep of the warning horn. If the starboard side of the cylinder block.
self-test does not occur, check the warning horn's purple
2. Turn the ignition (key) switch to the ON or RUN
lead for battery voltage (whenever the ignition switch is in
position.
the RUN or ON position) and the black lead for continuity
to the negative battery terminal (at all times). 3. Using a suitable jumper wire, alternately hold the en-
5. The warning horn must sound whenever the horn's tan gine harness end of each tan lead to a good engine ground.
lead is grounded and the ignition switch is in the ON or The warning horn must sound continuously as long as each
RUN position. The tan lead does not affect the self-test tan lead is held to ground.
unless it is shorted to ground. I f the tan lead is shorted to 4A. If the horn does not sound, but the key-on self-test
ground the horn will sound continuously whenever the sounds normally, one of the following has occurred:
ignition switch is in the ON or RUN position. a. The blocking diode has failed in an open circuit.
TROUBLESHOOTING 67
b. The tan lead has an open circuit between the engine visual and audible warning signals. The system can warn
temperature switch and the warning horn. This in- the operator of engine overheat, oil pump failure (no oil)
cludes the large, red, 10-pin main harness connector, and low oil level in the oil tank. If a warning occurs, one
the blocking diode (if equipped) and the boat wiring of four light emitting diodes (LEDs) will illuminate on the
harness. System Check gauge (Figure 41) and the warning horn
c. The warning horn has failed (not likely, if the self- will sound continuously for 10 seconds. This warning
test functions). system allows positive identification of the engine system
4B. If the horn does not sound and the key-on self test does that caused the warning, with no interpretation of warning
not sound, one of the following has occurred: signals required by the operator. The warning LED will
a. The warning horn has failed. stay illuminated for 30 seconds after the problem is cor-
b. The warning horn is not receiving battery voltage rected, allowing easy identification of intermittent prob-
through its purple lead when the ignition switch is lems.
in the ON or run position. Test the purple lead and
repair or replace it as necessary. NOTE
c. The warning horn black lead is not properly The Check Engine LED, while present in all
grounded. Test the black lead for continuity back to gauges, is not functional on V4 engines.
the negative battery terminal. Clean and tighten the These engines do not incorporate a sensor
connections, or repair or replace the ground circuit for the check engine LED. Additionally, the
low oil and no oil LEDs only function on
(boat harness black lead) as necessary. engines equipped with an oil injection sys-
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF and reconnect all leads tem.
when fhshed.
All control of the warning horn, the gauge's LEDs and
System Check Engine Monitor the system's self-test function, is contained in the System
Check Engine Monitor gauge.
The warning system used on 1996-1998 models Separate leads are used to carry the signal from the
equipped with the modular wiring system (MWS) and the engine mounted and remote oil tank sensors to the system
system check engine monitor provides the operator with check gauge through an eight-pin Deutsch connector (4,
Figure 42). The engine temperature overheat signal is
carried by the tan lead, the oil injection pump's no oil signal
@ is carried by the tadyellow lead and the oil tank's low oil
signal is carried by the tadblack lead. On V6 and V8
models, the vacuum switch's check engine signal is carried
by the tadorange lead. Each sending unit will connects its
SYSTEM CHECK GAUGE lead to ground if a problem is noted.
On V4 models, the MWS boat harness contains a tanlor-
ange lead (that controls the check engine LED on V6 and
V8 models), but the engine harness does not contain a
tanlorange lead (or a vacuum switch).
NOTE
A temperature switch is used on each cylin-
der head. Test both switches must be tested
in thefollo~dngprocedure.Models equipped
with QuikStart (Table 12) use a switch with
two leads on one cylinder head.
The remaining leads in the eight-pin connector are:

ground (black lead), key-switched battery voltage (purple
lead), tachometer signal from the engine (gray lead) and
warning horn control (tadblue lead).
The warning horn uses only two leads. The purple lead
supplies key-switched battery voltage to the horn and the
CHAPTER THREE
tanhlue lead is grounded by the system check gauge to 2. Warning horn does not sound for 1/2 second-If the
sound the horn. LEDs also do not illuminate, go back and complete Step 1
before proceeding. If the LEDs illuminate, but the horn
CAUTION does not sound, proceed as follows:
A warning horn must be connected to the a. Disconnect the eight-pin Deutsch connector (4, Fig-
purple and tanhlue two-pin Deutsch con- ure 42) from the system check gauge. Turn the
nector (3, Figure 42), regardless of whether
ignition switch to the ON or RUN position. Using a
a system check gauge or the audible driver
module (part No. 176458) is used. suitable jumper lead, ground the connector's
tanlblue lead (pin No. 8) to the black lead (pin No.
On all models except 90" V4 cross-flow models, a block- 2). If the warning horn sounds, replace the system
ing diode is used in the engine harness tan lead to prevent check gauge. If the warning horn does not sound,
the system's self-test and other electrical signals from leave the gauge disconnected and proceed.
activating the SLOW (speed limiting overheat warning) b. Disconnect the warning horn from its two-pin
program in the power pack. The SLOW program must only Deutsch connector (3, Figure 42). Test the tadblue
activate if the engine is actually overheating. The diode is lead for continuity between the warning horn (two-
positioned near the six-pin Deutsch System Check harness pin) and gauge (eight-pin) Deutsch connectors (3
connector. Testing of the blocking diode is covered in the and 4, Figure 42). If continuity is not noted, repair
appropriate Ignition section of this chapter. or replace the tadblue lead (and/or connectors) as
necessary. When finished, reconnect the eight-pin
Deutsch connector to the gauge.
Self-test mode c. Test the two-pin Deutsch connector's (3, Figure 42)
purple lead (on the wiring harness side) for battery
The self-test function activates each time the key is voltage whenever the ignition switch is in the ON or
turned to the ON or RUN position. The electronics in the RUN position. Repair or replace the purple lead, 20
gauge will sound the warning horn for 112 second and amp fuse andlor ignition switch as necessary. Recon-
illuminate all four gauge LEDs, then turn off each LED in nect the two-pin Deutsch connector when finished.
sequence each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON d. If at this point, the warning horn will not sound for
or RUN position. Each self-test makes sure the warning a 112 second during the self-test, replace the warning
horn and all LEDs are functioning, and that the electronic horn.
control circuits in the gauge are operating correctly.
NOTE Operational mode

I f the battery voltage at the gauge drops
below 7 volts, the gauge may re-enter self- The operational mode is entered each time the self-test
test mode. mode is completed and the gauge receives a tachometer
If the gauge does not self-test correctly, refer to Figure signal from the engine. The warning horn control circuits
42 and proceed as follows: will not be enabled until the gauge receives at least a 1000
1. LED(s) does not illuminate-If one to three of the rpm tachometer signal. In this mode, when a sensor acti-
LEDs do not illuminate, the gauge is defective and must vates (is shorted to ground), the appropriate LED will
be replaced. If all four LEDs do not illuminate, proceed as illuminate and the warning horn will sound for 10 seconds.
follows: The LED will illuminate for a minimum of 30 seconds,
a. Test the purple lead at the gauge's eight-pin Deutsch even if the problem only occurred momentarily. This al-
connector (4, Figure 42) for battery voltage with the lows easy identification of intermittent warning signals.
ignition switch is in the ON or RUN position. Repair However, the LED will remain illuminated as long as the
or replace the purple lead, 20 amp fuse and/or igni- sensor remains activated. When the sensor deactivates
tion switch as necessary. (opens from ground), the LED will remain illuminated for
b. Test the black lead at the gauge's eight-pin Deutsch an additional 30 seconds.
connector for continuity back to the negative battery If an additional sensor activates, the warning horn will
terminal. Repair or replace the black lead as neces- again sound for 10 seconds and the appropriate LED will
sary. illuminate as described in the previous paragraph. On V4
c. I f the purple lead indicates battery voltage and the models, it is possible to have three LEDs illuminated at the
black lead indicates continuity, replace the system same time. On V6 and V8 models, it is possible to have all
check gauge. four LEDs illuminated at the same time.
TROUBLESHOOTING 69
If the warning system activates under operation, identify the gearcase into reverse and briefly apply throttle to clear
-
which LED is illuminated and refer to the followinp;: any debris that may be covering the water intake screens.
If the water temp LED is still-illuminated, and/or water
1. Water Temp-lf the overheat signal occurs during op-
discharge is not noted at the tell-tale indicator, stop the
eration, reduce the engine speed to idle and check the water
engine, allow it to cool, then determine and correct the
discharge (tell-tale) indicator for a steady stream of water,
cause of the overheat condition.
indicating that the water pump is operating correctly. If
adequatewater discharge is not noted at the tell-tale indi- 2. No oil-If the motion sensor in the oil injection pump
cator, make sure that the boat has come off plane, then shift detects that the oil pump is not pumping oil, the no oil LED
OMC MODULAR WIRING SYSTEM

(MWS) HARNESS
1. Modular wiring harness

2. Engine connectors (Deutsch)
3. Warning horn Deutsch connector
4. System check gauge Deutsch connector
5. Traditional tachometer ring terminals
6. Trimhilt gauge ring terminals
7. Trimhilt switch Deutsch connector
8. Ignition switch Deutsch connector
CHAPTER THREE
will illuminate and the warning horn will sound. If this the tan lead between the engine harness Amphenol
occurs, immediately stop the engine and check the oil level (or bullet) connector and the system check gauge
in the remote tank. If the tank contains sufficient oil, eight-pin Deutsch connector (4, Figure 42). This
operate the engine on a 50:1fueYoil mixture until the cause includes the blocking diode on models so equipped.
of the warning can be determined.Refer to Chapter Eleven 2. No oil-Proceed as follows:
for oil injection troubleshooting procedures. a. Disconnect the oil injection pump (Figure 43) from
3. Low Oil-A float switch in the remote oil tank activates the engine harness four-pin Amphenol connector.
this LED and the gauge will sound the horn if the oil level The harness leaves the pump at the very back of the
drops to approximately 113to 114of the tank's full capacity. Pump.
The LED will remain illuminated until the oil tank is b. Using a suitablejumper wire, connect the tanlyellow
refilled. lead (pin A) to the black lead (pin B) on the engine
4. Check Engine (V6 and V8 models)-A vacuum switch harness side of the connector.
connected to the fuel supply line going to the VR02 pump c. The No oil LED must illuminate as long as the
unit activates this LED and the gauge will sound the horn tanlyellow lead is connected to the black lead. If not,
if the vacuum in the fuel supply line exceeds 5-6 in.-hg. test the black lead for continuity to the negative
(16.9-20.3 kPa [switches with black housings]) or 6.5-7.5 battery terminal. Repair or replace the black lead as
in.-hg. (22-25.3 kPa [switches with gray housings]). necessary.
d. If the black lead tests satisfactorily, repair or replace
the tanlyellow lead between the four-pin Amphenol
Diagnostic Mode connector and the system check gauge eight-pin
Deutsch connector (4, Figure 44).
The system also features a diagnostic mode. Enter the
3. Low oil--Gain access to the remote oil tank, then
diagnostic mode by turning the ignition switch to the ON
proceed as follows:
or RUN position, but without actually starting the engine.
a. Remove four Tom head screws securing the oil
The gauge will go through its self-testmode, then automat-
pickup assembly to the remote oil tank.
ically enter diagnostic mode. In this mode, the warning
b. Lift the oil pickup assembly from the tank while
horn circuits are disabled. When a sensor is activated, the observing the gauge.
appropriate LED will illuminate only as long as the sensor c. The low oil LED must illuminatewhen the oil pickup
is activated. is llfted high enough to cause the float switch to drop.
If not, disconnect the oil tank two-pin Deutsch con-
NOTE
Do not attempt to use the diagnostic mode nector from the engine harness. Connect a suitable
unless the self-test mode has satisfactorily jumper lead between the tanlblack and black leads
activated. Refer to the end of the book for of the engine harness side of the connector. If the
wiring diagrams. LED now illuminates, repair or replace the oil
pickup leads or replace the pickup as an assembly.
This mode allows you to manually ground the sensors d. If the LED does not illuminate after connecting the
or sensor leads to quickly venfy that the wiring harness jumper lead in the previous step, test the black lead
and gauge are functioning correctly. To test the wiring for continuity from the engine harness side of the oil
harness warning circuits, turn the ignition switch to the ON tank's two-pin Deutsch connector to the negative
or RUN position, verify that the self-test successfully battery terminal. Repair or replace the black lead as
activated and completed, then proceed as follows: necessary.
1. Water temp-Proceed as follows: e. If the black lead tests satisfactorily, repair or replace
a. Disconnect both engine temperature switches at the tanhlack lead between the engine harness side
their one-pin Arnphenol connector, bullet connec- of the oil tank's two-pin Deutsch connector and the
tors or two-pin Amphenol connector. On some mod- System Check gauge eight-pin Deutsch connector.
els, the connectormay be located under the electrical 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and recon-
componentaccess cover on the port side of the power nect all leads when finished.
head.
b. Using a suitable jumper wire, alternately hold the Audible driver module
engine harness end of each tan lead to a good engine
ground. If a system check gauge was not installed when the boat
c. The water temp LED must illuminate as long as each was rigged, an audible driver module must have been
tan lead is held to ground. If not, repair or replace installed in its place. The audible driver module will pro-
TROUBLESHOOTING
vide only audible signals; there will be no LEDs. Because constant horn signal occurs during operation, reduce the
the LEDs are not present, some interpretation of the warn- engine speed to idle and check the water discharge (tell-
ing horn signals is required on the operator's part. The tale) indicator for a steady stream of water. If adequate
module plugs into the eight-pin Deutsch connector, replac- water discharge is not noted at the tell-tale indicator, make
ing the gauge. The warning signals are as follows: surethat the boat has come off plane, then shift the gearcase
into reverse and briefly apply the throttleto clear any debris
NOTE that may be covering the water intake screens. If water
A constant warning horn and the activation discharge is still not noted at the discharge indicator, stop
of SLOW (speed limiting operational warn- the engine, allow it to cool and determine and repair the
ing) means an overheat situation on all mod- cause of the overheat condition. A float switch in the
els (that are equipped with the SLOWsystem). engine mounted oil reservoir also activates the warning
horn continuously whenever the oil level drops to approxi-
1A. Engine overheat and low oil level (90' V4 [cross-flow] mately 113 to 114 of the tank's full capacity. The float
models)--An overheating engine andlor low oil level in switch holds the tank's tadblack (or tan) lead to the tank's
the oil tank will produce a constant horn signal. If the black lead, sounding the horn until the tank is refilled.
SPARK TESTER INSTALLATION
lgnition coil
lgnitlon coil Ignition coil Ignition coil
No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4
High tension
72 CHAPTER THREE
TROUBLESHOOTING
1B. Engine overheat and low oil level (90" V4 [loop- tank's tadblack (or tan) lead to the tank's black lead,
charged models)-An overheating engine andor low oil sounding the horn until the tank is refilled
level in the oil tank will produce a constant horn signal.
NOTE
However, if the engine is overheating, the SLOW (speed
limiting overheat warning) system will engage and speed Zfthe boat is operated in rough watel; the oil
sloshing in the oil tank may cause the$oat
will be limited to approximately 2000-3000 rpm. switch to open and close, resulting in an
If a constant horn signal occurs (and the SLOW system intermittent warning horn signal. Do not
engages) during operation, reduce the engine speed to idle confuse this signal with the consistentlypuls-
and check the water discharge (tell-tale) indicator for a ing no oil signal.
steady stream of water, indicating that the water pump is
operating correctly. If adequate water discharge is not 2. Oil pump failure-If the motion sensor in the oil injec-
noted at the tell-tale indicator, make sure that the boat has tion pump detects that the oil pump is not pumping oil, the
come off plane, then shift the gearcase into reverse and warning system will produce an urgent, pulsing horn. The
briefly apply the throttle to clear any debris that may be engine must be immediately stopped and the remote oil
covering the water intake screens. If water discharge is still tank's oil level checked. If the oil level in the remote oil
not noted at the discharge indicator, stop the engine, allow tank is satisfactory, the engine must be operated on a
it to cool and determine and repair the cause of the overheat premixed 50:l ratio fuelloil mix until the cause of the
condition. warning can be determined. Refer to Chapter Eleven for
oil injection system troubleshooting procedures.
I f a constant horn signal occurs (and the SLOW system
3. Self-test-The audible driver module sounds the warn-
does not engage), the float switch in the engine-mounted
ing horn as part of a brief self-test each time the key is
oil reservoir can also activate the warning horn continu-
turned to the ON or RUN position. The self-test sounds a
ously whenever the oil tank's oil level drops to approxi- single beep of the warning horn. If the self-test does not
mately 113 to 114 of the tank's full capacity. The float occur, refer to Troubleshooting the audible driver module
switch holds the tank's tanlblack (or tan) lead to the tank's in the next section.
black lead, sounding the horn until the tank is refilled
1C. Engine overheat and low oil level (V6 and V8 mod-
els)-An overheating engine andor low oil level in the oil Troubleshooting the audible driver module
tank andlor a restricted fuel supply will produce a constant
horn signal. If the audible driver module does not self-test correctly,
If a constant horn signal occurs (and the SLOW system proceed as follows:
engages) during operation, reduce the engine speed to idle 1. Test the purple lead at the module's eight-pin Deutsch
and check the water discharge (tell-tale) indicator for a connector for battery voltage whenever the ignition switch
is in the ON or RUN position. Repair or replace the purple
steady stream of water, indicating that the water pump is
lead, 20-amp fuse andor ignition switch as necessary.
operating correctly. I f adequate water discharge is not
2. Test the black lead at the module's eight-pin Deutsch
noted at the tell-tale indicator, make sure that the boat has
connector for continuity back to the negative battery ter-
come off plane, then shift the gearcase into reverse and
minal. Repair or replace the black lead as necessary.
briefly apply the throttle to clear any debris that may be
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON or RUN position.
covering the water intake screens. If water discharge is still
Using a suitable jumper lead, ground the connector's
not noted at the discharge indicator, stop the engine, allow tadblue lead (pin No. 8) to the black lead (pin No. 2). If
it to cool and determine and repair the cause of the overheat the warning horn sounds, replace the audible driver mod-
condition. ule. If the warning horn does not sound, leave the module
I f a constant horn signal occur (and the SLOW system disconnected and proceed to Step 4.
does not engage) during operation, reduce the engine speed 4. Disconnect the warning horn from its two-pin Deutsch
to idle. If the warning horn ceases to sound, a fuel restric- connector.Test the tadblue lead for continuity between the
tion is present in the fuel supply line. Troubleshoot the fuel warning horn (two-pin) and module (eight-pin) Deutsch
supply system as described later in this chapter. connectors. I f continuity is not noted, repair or replace the
I f a constant horn signal occurs (and the SLOW system tan/bIue lead (andor connectors) as necessary. When fm-
does not engage) and the horn remains on after the engine ished, reconnect the eight-pin Deutsch connector to the
speed is reduced to idle, the float switch in the engine audible driver module.
mounted oil reservoir can also activate the warning horn 5. Test the two-pin Deutsch connector's purple lead (on
continuously if the oil level drops to approximately 1/3 to the wiring hamess side) for battery voltage whenever the
114 of the tank's full capacity. The float switch holds the ignition switch is in the ON or RUN position. Repair or
CHAPTER THREE
replace the purple lead, 20-amp fuse andor ignition switch 4. Do not crank the engine if the power pack unit is not
as necessary. Reconnect the two-pin Deutsch connector grounded to the power head.
when finished. 5. Do not touch or disconnect any ignition component
6. If at this point, the warning horn will not sound a single while the engine is running, while the key switch is ON or
beep during the self-test, replace the warning horn. while the battery cables are connected.
6. If the outboard motor must be run without the battery
IGNITION SYSTEM connected, disconnect the charging system rectifier or
voltage regulatorlrectifier leads at the terminal block. Tape
The wiring harness used between the ignition switch and each wire separately to prevent contact with each other or
engine is adequate to handle the electrical requirements of the engine ground.
the outboard motor; however, it will not handle the electri-
cal needs of accesories that may be installed. Whenever an
accessory is added, run new wiring between the battery and Troubleshooting Preparation
the accessory, and install a separate fuse panel on the
instrument panel. 1. Check the wiring harness and all plug-in connectors to
make sure all connectors are tight, free of corrosion and
If the ignition (key) switch should fail, never install an
the wiring insulation is in good condition.
automotive type switch. A marine-grade switch must al-
ways be used. 2. Check all of the electrical components that are
grounded to the engine for good, clean connections.
3. Make sure that all ground wires are properly connected
Description and the connections are clean and tight.
All models covered in this manual are equipped with a 4. Check the remainder of the wiring for disconnected
wires and shorted or open circuits.
magneto-powered capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) sys-
tem. The ignition systems and their respective outboard 5. Make sure an adequate supply of fresh fuel is available
models are as follows: to the engine. Make sure the oil and gasoline are properly
a. CD4-65 jet, 80 jet (1995-1997), 85 Backtroller, mixed in the correct proportions on models without oil
88190 Special, 901115hp (90°), 1121115 Special and injection.
130 hp. 6. Check the battery condition on electric start models.
b. CD6200-225 hp. Clean the terminals and recharge the battery if necessary.
c. Optical Ignition System-9011 15 hp (60") and 150- 7. Check the spark plug cable routing. Make sure the
175 hp models. cables are properly connected to their spark plugs.
d. CD8-250-300 hp models. 8. Remove all spark plugs, keeping them in the order
Refer to Chapter Seven for complete ignition system removed.
descriptions. Variations of each ignition system are used
which contain different components and require different WARNING
troubleshooting and serviceprocedures. Be sure to refer to To prevent fire or explosion, do not create
the appropriate procedure in this chapter. General trou- sparks at or near an open spark plug hole in
Step 9 or Step 10.
bleshooting procedures are provided in Table 2.
9. Install a spark tester (Figure43) between the spark plug
Troubleshooting F'recautions wires and a good engine ground. Adjust the spark tester air
gap to 112in. (12.7 mm). Crank the engine while observing
Note the following precautions to avoid damaging the the spark tester. If a good crisp spark jumps at each spark
ignition system. gap, the ignition system is functioning properly. If weak or
1. Do not reverse the battery connections. Reversing bat- no spark is noted, an ignition system malfunction is likely.
tery polarity will destroy the rectifier, voltage regula- 10. If a spark tester is not available, remove each spark
torlrectifier and power pack. plug and reconnect the proper plug cable to one plug. Lay
2. Never spark the battery terminals with the battery cable the plug against the cylinder head so its base makes a good
connections to check polarity. Any sparks or open flame ground connection, then crank the engine while noting the
near the battery can create a serious explosion. spark gap. If a good crisp spark is noted, the ignition
3. Do not disconnect the battery cables while the engine system is functioning properly. If weak or no spark is
is running. noted, an ignition system malfunction is likely.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Required Equipment ters must be recalibrated each time the scale is changed)
and has automatic polarity compensation.
The following test equipment is necessary to test CD An ohmmeter, although useful, is not always a good
ignition components and to prevent unnecessary parts re- indicator of ignition system condition. This is primarily
placement. because resistance tests do not simulate actual operating
1. Peak Reading Voltmeter (PRVhThe manufacturer rec- conditions. For example, the power source in most ohm-
ommends using one of the following units: meters is only 6-9 volts. A CDI charge coil, however,
a. Merc-0-Tronic Model 78 1 commonly produces 100-300 volts during normal opera-
b. Stevens Model CD-77 tion. Such high voltage can cause coil insulation leakage
c. Electro-Specialties Model PRV-1 that can not be detected with an ohmmeter.
Because resistance generally increases with tempera-
NOTE ture, perform resistance tests with the engine cold (room
A conventional voltmeter cannot be used in
place of a meter capable of reading peak temperature). Resistance increases approximately 10
volts. ohms per each degree of temperature increase. Therefore,
resistance tests on hot components will indicate increased
A typical PRV is equipped with two test leads-ne red resistance and may result in unnecessary parts replacement
and one black. The test leads have a probe-type end that without solving the basic problem.
can be slipped under the connector sleeves or directly into 4. Stevens Ignition Module Load Adaptel; part No. PL-
an open connector. A plug-in clip connector is also pro- 88-The PL-88 is required to test power pack output. If a
vided with the tester for attaching a test lead onto an engine PL-88 is not available, it can be fabricated using a 10 ohm,
ground. The tester has three voltage scales: 0-5 volts, 0-50 10 watt resistor (Radio Shack part No. 271-132, or equiva-
volts and 0-500 volts. The voltage range is selected by lent).
turning the voltage knob on the meter. The PRV is also 5. Stevens Ignition Coil Terminal Extenders, part No.
equipped with a polarity selector knob to select the sensor TS-77-The terminal extenders are installed between the
polarity of the voltage to be measured. ignition coil primary terminals and primary wires, and are
During testing, if the meter needle swings hard against used to provide a meter connection to the primary circuit
the right-hand side of the scale, immediately d i s c o ~ e cthe
t during the test procedure.
test leads or discontinue the test to prevent damage to the 6. Jumper wires for Amphenol connectors (4 are
PRV. Recheck the meter switch settings or the test connec- needed)--Can be fabricated using 8 in. lengths of 16-
tions. gauge wire. Connect a pin (OMC part No. 5 11469) to one
Slow cranking speed, caused by a weak battery, faulty end of a wire and a socket (OMC part No. 581656) to the
starter motor or other starting system problem can result other end. Insulate both ends with heat shrink tubing
in invalid peak output readings. Make sure the battery is (OMC part No. 510628).
fully charged and the starting system is operating properly. 7. Spark Tester-Stevens part No. S21, S13C or S48 or
Prior to performing peak output tests, make sure the spark Merc-0-Tronic part No. 55-48 or 55-63 are recommended.
plugs are installed and properly torqued. The spark tester is connected between the spark plug leads
and engine ground to check for spark output from the
2. Breakout (junction) box A breakout box comects to a
ignition system.
particular circuit and allows voltage measurements to be
taken while the circuit remains intact. This enables voltage 8. The correct test wheel-See Table 16. It is necessary
output to be measured while the engine is running. Two to run the outboard under load during the power pack
commonly used breakout boxes are: Stevens Model SA-6 running output test.
and Merc-0-Tronic Model 55-861.
3. A suitable ohmmeter capable of measuring low and CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION
high ranges-A multirneter is generally the most efficient (CDI) TROUBLESHOoTING
and inexpensive instrument for checking resistance, in
addition to voltage and current. Two types of multirneter Several variations of the CD ignition system are used on
are available: analog and digital. outboards covered in this manual. Each variation may
The analog volt-ohmmeter (VOM) has a moving needle contain different components and require different trou-
with marked bands indicating the volt, ohm and amperage bleshooting and service procedures. Be sure to refer to the
scales. The digital multirneter (DVOM) is ideally suited for appropriate procedure in this chapter. See Figure 44 for a
troubleshooting work because it is easy to read, contains diagram of a typical four-cylinder (CD4) ignition system
internal overload protection, is auto-ranging (analog me- showing the major components common to all models.
CHAPTER THREE
CD4 IGNITION SYSTEM 7. Alternately, connect a timing light to each cylinder. The
TROUBLESHOOTING timing light should indicate the number of the cylinder that
(V4 CROSS FLOW MODELS) is connected to the timing light. For example, if the timing
light is connected to the No. 2 spark plug wire, the No. 2
The CD4 ignition system is used on the V4 cross-flow mark should be visible. In addition, the number should
models 65 Jet, 80 Jet (1995-1997), 85 Backtroller, 881 90 only appear near the timing pointer.
Special, 901115 hp (90°), 1121115 Special and 130 hp. 8. If a different cylinder number appears, or if the number
The major components of the CD4 ignition system used jumps around or appears at other than the timing pointer,
on V4 cross-flow models include the flywheel, charge coil, first make sure the primary ignition wires are properly
four sensor coils, power pack, four ignition coils and connected. The primary wires must be connected as fol-
related wiring. The charge coil is contained inside the lows:
stator assembly and is not serviced separately. The four a. No. 1 coil--orange/blue wire.
sensor coils are contained in the one-piece timer base b. No. 2 coil-orangelpurple wire.
assembly. c. No. 3 coil~rangelgreenwire.
If the outboard motor is very hard or impossible to start, d. No. 4 coil--orangelpink wire.
begin the troubleshooting procedure at Total Output Test. If the primary wires are properly connected, verify wire
If an ignition malfunction is causing an intermittent high- and pin location on all timer base and power pack connec-
speed misfire or erratic operation, refer to Indexing Fly- tors. See the wiring diagrams at end of manual. If wire and
wheel and Running Output Test. Unless specified pin location are correct, replace the power pack.
otherwise, perform the following ignition system tests in
the sequence given. Skipping tests or jumping around the
troubleshootingprocedure can result in misleading results Total Output Test
and unnecessary parts replacement.Test the entire ignition NOTE
system-more than one component may be defective. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark
gap during the total output test, but the en-
gine pops or baclCfires during starting or
Indexing Flywheel running, the ignition system may be out of
time. Make sure the orangehlue primary
If the outboard motor runs erratically, or if a high speed
ignition wire is connected to the No. 1 (top
misfire is noted, the power pack may be defective. Internal starboard) ignition coil, the orange/pulple
power pack malfunctions can cause erratic ignition system wire is connected to the No. 2 coil (topport),
operation. Perform the following procedure to ensure the the orange/greenwire is connected to the No.
power pack is £iring at the correct time. 3 coil (bottom starboard) and the or-
1. Remove the spark plugs. ange/pink wire is connected to the No. 4 coil
2. Position the No. 2 piston at TDC by rotating the fly- (bottom port). Make sure the spark plug
wheel clockwise. Insert a pencil or similar tool into the No.
2 spark plug hole while rotating the flywheel to ensure the
piston is at TDC.
3. With the No. 2 piston at TDC, place a mark on the
flywheel directly across from the timing pointer. Label the
mark No. 2.
4. Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 on the remaining cylinders.
5. Reinstall the spark plugs and connect the plug leads.
CAUTION
The outboard motor must be supplied with
adequate cooling water while running.
Place the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at
high speed while connected to a flushing
device.
6. Start the motor and run it at the speed at which the
problem is evident.
TROUBLESHOOTING 77
leads are properly connected, theflywheel is the spark tester mounting clip is secured to a good clean
properly located on the crankshaft and the engine ground.
timing and throttle linkage are properly syn- 3. Connect the cutoff clip and lanyard to the emergency
chronized. stop switch, if so equipped.
4. Adjust the spark tester spark gap to 112 in. (12.7 mm).
The total output test will determineif the ignition system 5. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
is capable of delivering adequate spark to the spark plugs. a. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, con-
Perform the output test with the spark plugs installed and tinue testing at Running Output Test in this chapter.
properly tightened. b. If acceptable spark is noted on at least one spark gap,
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the spark plugs. continue testing at Sensor Coil Output Test in this
chapter.
2. Mount a suitable spark tester on the engine and connect c. If no spark is noted at any spark gap, continuetesting
the spark plug leads to the tester. See Figure 45. Make sure at Stop Circuit Test in this chapter.
Stop Circuit Test
The following test eliminates the stop circuit as a poten-

tial cause of an ignition malfunction. The stop button, key
switch and lanyard emergency stop switch are connected
to the power pack through the engine wiring harness.
I One-pin stop circuit connector Activating the stop circuit shorts the power pack output to
ground, which disables the ignition system and stops the
engine.
1. Connect a spark tester as described under Total Output
Test.
2. Disconnect the wire one-pin Amphenol stop circuit
connector (black/yellow wire) between the key switch and
power pack. See Figure 46.
3. Crank the engine while noting the spark tester.
a. If good spark is now noted at all gaps, the problem
is in the stop circuit. Test the stop button or key
switch as described in this chapter.
b. If no spark is noted at any gap, test the charge coil
as described in this chapter.
c. If spark is noted on at least one gap, continue at
Sensor Coil Output Test in this chapter.
4. If testing is complete, reconnect the one-pin stop circuit
connector.
Key Switch Ohmmeter Test
If the engine does not stop when the key switch is turned
to OFF, an open circuit is present in the blackJyellow stop
circuit wire, the key switch is defective or the power pack
is defective.
1. Install the cap and lanyard assembly on the emergency
stop switch.
2. Disconnect the black/yellow one-pin stop circuit con-
nector (Figure 46).
3. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
scale.
CHAPTER THREE
4. Insert a suitable jumper lead into the key switch end of 1A. 1995 models-Disconnect the brown and brownlyel-
the stop circuit connector (Figure 47). low wire two-pin Amphenol connector between the stator
5. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground assembly and power pack. See Figure 48.
and the jumper lead. 1B. 19962002 models-Disconnect the brownblack and
a. With the key switch in the OFF position, the ohm- brownlwhite wire two-pin Amphenol connector between
meter should indicate low resistance (continuity). If the stator assembly and power pack. See Figure 48.
not, an open circuit is present in the blacWyellow 2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500.
wire between the stop circuit connector and key 3. Connect the PRV between a good engine ground and al-
switch, or the key switch is defective. ternately to the A and B terminals in the stator end of the
b. With the key switch in the ON position, the ohrnme- two-pin connector. Crank the engine and note the meter at
ter should indicate no continuity. If continuity is each connection.
noted, continue at Step 6. a. Any voltage reading at either terminal indicates the
6 . Disconnect the blacWyellow stop circuit wires from the charge coil or charge coil wires are shorted to
key switch M terminal. See Figure 47. ground. Repair the short or replace the stator assem-
a. If the meter now indicates no continuity, the key bly as necessary.
switch is defective and must be replaced. b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 4.
b. If continuity is still present, continue at Step 7. 4. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the
7. Separate the emergency stop switch wire from the two-pin stator connector. Connect the red test lead to ter-
wiring harness black/yellow wire at the key switch. minal B.
5. Crank the engine while noting the meter. Charge coil
a. If no continuity is now noted, the emergency stop
output should be 150 volts or more.
switch is defective and must be replaced.
a. If output is 150 volts or more, reconnect the two-pin
b. If continuity is still present, check the blacWyellow
connector and continueto Sensor Coil Output Test.
wire for a short to ground and repair as necessary.
b. If output is less than 150 volts, first inspect the
8. If testing is complete, remove any jumper leads and
condition of the charge coil wires and connectors,
reconnect the stop circuit connector.
Stop Button Ohmmeter Test

(Tiller Handle Models)
If the engine does not stop when the stop button is
@ Ohmmeter
depressed, an open circuit is present in the blacWyellow

stop circuit wire from the power pack or the black wire
from the stop button.
1. Discomect the black/yellow one-pin stop circuit con-
nector between the stop button and power pack.
scale.
3. Connect the red ohmmeter lead to the stop button end
of the stop circuit connector. Connect the black ohmmeter
lead to a good engine ground.
4. The ohmmeter should indicate no continuity with the
stop button not pushed and low resistance continuity when
the button is pushed.
5. If not, the stop button or stop button wire is defective.
Charge Coil Output Test

Perform the following test to ensure the charge coil is
capable of producing sufficient voltage to charge the ca-
pacitor in the power pack and to make sure the charge coil
or charge coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak
reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
TROUBLESHOOTING
and repair as necessary. If the wiring and connectors 5. Next, check the charge coil and wires for shorts to
are in acceptable condition, check charge coil resis- ground. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high4
tance as outlined under Charge Coil Resistance Test ohm scale.
in this chapter. 6. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
and alternately to the A and B terminals in the stato
two-pin connector. Any continuity between ground an
Charge Coil Resistance Test either terminal indicates the charge coil or charge
wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and repair
Because resistance generally increases with tempera- grounded wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as nece
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine cold (room sary. See Chapter Seven.
temperature). Resistance tests on hot components will 7. If testing is complete, remove any jumper leads an
indicateincreased resistance and may result in unnecessary reconnect the two-pin connector.
parts replacement without solving the basic problem.
1. Insert suitable jumper leads into the A and B terminals
in the stator two-pin connector. Sensor Coil Output Test
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale. The sensor coil provides a voltage signal to the power
3. Connect the ohmmeter between the jumper leads. pack which triggers power pack output to be directed to
Charge coil resistance should be as follows: the correct ignition coil primary circuit. Perform this test
a. 6 amp charging system-500-620 ohms. to determine if the sensor coil is capable of producing a
b. 9 and 10 amp charging systems--430-530 ohms. sufficient voltage signal, and to ensure the sensor coil or
4. Replace the stator assembly if charge coil resistance is sensor coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak reading
not as specified. voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
Stator and timer base
brownlblack and
brownlwhite
Emergency stop switch
CHAPTER THREE
1. Disconnect the five-pin Arnphenol connector between a. If output is 0.3 volt or more, reconnect the timer base
the timer base and power pack. See Figure 49. five-pin connector and continue at Power Pack Out-
2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 5 (or SEN put Test.
and 5 if using Stevens CD-77). b. If output is less than 0.3 volt, check the condition of
the timer base wiring and connectors and repair as
3. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine necessary. If the wiring and connectors are in accept-
ground. Alternately, connect the red PRV test lead to each able condition, check sensor coil resistance as out-
timer bdse terminal in the five-pin connector. Crank the lined under Sensor Coil Resistance Test.
engine and note the meter at each connection.
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted sensor coil
or sensor coil wire(s). Repair the shorted wire(s) as Sensor Coil Resistance Test
necessary or replace the timer base assembly.
b. If no voltage reading is noted, continue to Step 4. Because resistance generally increases with tempera-
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine cold (room
4. Connect the black PRV test lead to the timer base temperature). Resistance tests on hot components will
connector terminal E. Connect the red test lead to terminal indicate increased resistance and may result in unnecessary
A. parts replacement without solving the basic problem. The
5. Crank the engine while observing the meter. ohmmeter should be calibrated on the R x 1000 or high-
ohm scale when checking for a grounded condition.
6. Alternately connect the red test lead to each remaining
sensor coil terminal in the timer base connector. Crank the 1. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
engine and note the meter at each connection. Sensor coil 2. Connect the black ohmmeter lead to the timer base
output at each terminal should be 0.3 volt or more. terminal E in the five-pin connector.
@
Stator and
TROUBLESHOOTING
3. Alternately, connect the red ohmmeter lead to each A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevensload adapt-
remaining timer base terminal in the five-pin connector. er (part No. PL-88) arenecessaryto test power packoutput.
Note the meter reading at each connection. 1. Disconnect the primary wires from each ignition coil.
4. Sensor coil resistance should be 30-50 ohms at each 2. Connect the primary wire from the No. 1 coil (or-
connection. If not, replace the timer base assembly. See angerblue) to the red lead of the PL-88 load adapter.
Chapter Seven. Connect the black load adapter lead to a good engine
5. Next, calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high- ground. See Figure 50.
ohm scale. 3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500.
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the red load adapter
6. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
lead. C o ~ e c the
t black PRV test lead to a good engine
and alternately to each timer base terminal in the five-pin
ground.
connector. Any continuity between ground and any timer
5. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Power
base terminal indicates a short to ground. Inspect the
pack output should be 150 volts or more.
condition of the timer base wires and repair as necessary
or replace the timer base assembly. See Chapter Seven. 6. Repeat Steps 2-5 on the primary wire to each remaining
ignition coil. Output should be 150 volts or more at each
7. If testing is complete, remove any jumper leads and primary wire.
reconnect the five-pin connector. a. If output is 150 volts or more at each primary wire,
test ignition coil resistance as outlined in this chap-
ter.
Power Pack Output Test
b. If no output is noted at one or more primary wires,
replace the power pack. See Chapter Seven. I
WARNING
7. If testing is complete, remove the PL-88 load adapter I
To prevent accidental starting, remove the

spark plug leads from the spark plugs. Se- and reconnect the primary wires to the ignition coils. Make
curely gmund the plug leads to the power sure the orangelblue wire is attached to the No. 1 coil, the
head, or connect the leads to a spark testel: orangelpurple wire is attached to the No. 2 coil, the or-
angelgreen wire is attached to the No. 3 coil and the
orangelpink wire is attached to the No. 4 coil.
Running Output Test

Ground
voltmeter A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens Terminal

Extenders (part No. TS-77) are necessary to perform the
running output test. Running the outboard under load is
often necessary to locate the cause of an intermittent
malfunction or high-speed misfire, especially if good spark
is noted during the Total Output Test.Remove the propeller
and install the correct test wheel (Table 16) prior to per-
forming the test.
CAUTION
adequate cooling water while running. Zn-
stall the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
the water: Do not attempt to run the motor at
device.
1. Remove the primary wires from each ignition coil.

2. Install a Stevens Terminal Extender (part No. TS-77)
on each coil primary terminal. Connect the primary wires
to the terminal extenders. Make sure the orangelblue pri-
mary wire is attached to the No. 1 ignition coil, the or-
angelpurple wire is attached to the No. 2 ignition coil, the
CHAPTER THREE
orangelgreen wire is attached to the No. 3 ignition coil and 8. Replace the coil if resistance is not as specified.
the orangelpink wire is attached to the No. 4 ignition coil. 9. To check the spark plug leads, calibrate the ohmmeter
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. on R x 1 or low-ohm scale. Connect the ohmmeter to each
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the terminal extender end of the lead and note the meter. The resistance should
attached to the No. 1 ignition coil. Connect the black test be nearly zero ohm.
5. Start the engine and run at the speed at which the
malfunction is evident while observing the meter. Running RPM Limiting Power Pack
Power packs marked CDL are equipped with an internal
6. Move the red PRV lead to the terminal extender at-
tached to the No. 2 ignition coil and repeat Step 5. Note rpm limiting device designed to prevent power head dam-
the meter reading. age from overspeeding. On models so equipped, the power
7. Move the red PRV lead to the tenninal extender at- pack interrupts ignition if engine speed exceeds 6800 rpm.
tached to the No. 3 ignition coil. Repeat Step 5 while noting Be certain the correct power pack is used if replacement is
the meter. necessary.
8. Move the red PRV test lead to the terminal extender
attached to the No. 4 ignition coil. Repeat Step 5 while CD4 IGNITION SYSTEM
noting the meter. TROUBLESHOOTING
a. If output is less than specified (Step 5) on one or (130 HP V4 LOOP CHARGED MODELS)
more ignition coils, test the charge coil as described
in this chapter. If the charge coil is in acceptable The major components of the CD 4 ignition system used
condition, replace the power pack. on V4 loop charged 130 hp models include the flywheel,
b. If no output is noted at one or more ignition coils, charge coil, power coil, eight sensor coils, power pack, four
test the sensor coils as described in this chapter. If ignition coils, two temperature switches and related wir-
the sensor coils are in acceptable condition, replace ing.
the power pack. The charge coil and power coil are contained inside the
9. If testing is complete, remove the terminal extenders stator assembly and are not serviced separately. The power
and reconnect the primary wires to their respective ignition coil is used to provide voltage for QuikStart and SLOW
coils. operation. The eight sensor coils are contained in a one-
piece timer base assembly and are not serviced separately.
Ignition Coil Resistance Test Four sensor coils are used for QuikStart operation and four
are used for ignition.
Because resistance generally increases with tempera- If the outboard motor is very hard or impossible to start,
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine at room begin the troubleshooting procedure at Total Output Test
temperature (70" F [21° C]). Resistance tests on hot com- in this chapter. If an ignition malfunction is causing an
ponents will indlcate increased resistance and may result intermittent high-speed misfire or erratic operation, refer
in unnecessary parts replacement without solving the basic to Indexing Flywheel and Running Output Test in this
problem. Ignition coil resistance can be checked without chapter. Unless specified otherwise, perform the following
coil removal. ignition system tests in the sequence given. Skipping tests
1. Remove the primary wires and the spark plug wires or jumping around the troubleshooting procedure can re-
from the ignition coil assembly. sult in misleading results and unnecessary parts replace-
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 or low-ohm scale. ment. Test the entire ignition system-more than one
3. To check primary winding resistance, connect the black component may be defective.
ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground or to the coil
ground tab if the coil is removed. Connect the red ohmme-
ter lead to the coil primary terminal. Indexing Flywheel
4. Primary resistance should be 0.05-0.15 ohm.
5. To check secondary winding resistance, calibrate the If the outboard motor runs erratically, or if a high-speed
ohmmeter on the R x 100 or high-ohm scale. Connect the misfire is noted, the power pack may be defective. Internal
red ohmmeter lead to the coil primary terminal and the power pack malfunctions can cause erratic ignition system
black lead to the spark plug terminal. operation. Perform the following procedure to ensure the
6. Secondary resistance should be 225-325 ohms. power pack is firing at the correct time.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 on each remaining coil. 1. Remove the spark plugs.
TROUBLESHOOTING
2. Position the No. 2 piston at TDC by rotating the fly- properly connected, the flywheel is properly
wheel clockwise. Insert a pencil or similar tool into the No. located on the crankshaft and the timing and
2 spark plug hole while rotating the flywheel to ensure the throttle linkage are properly synchronized.
piston is at TDC.
3. With the No. 2 piston at TDC, place a mark on the The total output test determines if the ignition system is
flywheel directly across from the timing pointer. Label the capable of delivering adequate spark to the spark plugs.
mark No. 2. Perform the output test with the spark plugs installed and
4. Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 on the remaining cylinders. properly tightened.
5. Reinstall the spark plugs and connect the plug leads. 1. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the spark plugs.
2. Mount a suitable spark tester on the engine and connect
CAUTION the spark plug leads to the tester. See Figure 45. Make sure
The outboard motor must be supplied with the spark tester mounting clip is secured to a good, clean
adequate cooling water while running. engine ground.
Place the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at 3. Connect the cutoff clip and lanyard to the emergency
high speed while connected to a flushing stop switch, if so equipped.
device. 4. Adjust the spark tester spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1 mrn).
6. Start the motor and run it at the speed at which the 5. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
problem is evident. a. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, con-
7. Alternately,connect a timing light to each cylinder. The tinue testing at Running Output Test in this chapter.
timing light should indicatethe number of the cylinder that b. If acceptable spark is noted on at least one spark gap,
is connected to the timing light. For example, if the timing continue testing at Sensor Coil Output Test in this
light is connected to the No. 2 spark plug wire, the No. 2 chapter.
mark should be visible. In addition, the number should c. If no spark is noted at any spark gap, continue testing
only appear near the timing pointer. at Stop Circuit Test in this chapter.
8. If a different cylinder number appears, or if the number
jumps around or appears at other than the timing pointer,
first make sure the primary ignition wires are properly Stop Circuit Test
connected. The primary wires must be connected as fol-
lows: The following test eliminates the stop circuit as a poten-
a. No. 1 coil-orange/blue wire. tial cause of an ignition malfunction. The stop button, key
b. No. 2 coil-orangelpurple wire. switch and lanyard emergency stop switch are connected
c. No. 3 coil-orangelgreen wire. to the power pack through the engine wiring harness.
d. No. 4 coil-orangelpink wire. Activating the stop circuit shorts the power pack output to
If the primary wires are properly connected, verify wire ground, which disables the ignition system and stops the
and pin locations on all timer base and power pack con- engine.
nectors. See the wiring diagrams at end of manual. If wire 1. Connect a spark tester as described under Total Output
and pin location are correct, replace the power pack. Test.
2. Disconnect the blacklyellow wire one-pin Amphenol
Total Output Test stop circuit connector between the key switch and power
pack. See Figure 51.
NOTE 3. Crank the engine while noting the spark tester.
If acceptable spark is noted at each spark a. If good spark is now noted at all gaps, the problem
gine pops or bac@res during starting or is in the stop circuit. Test the key switch as described
running, the ignition system may be out of in this chapter.
time. Make sure the orangehlue primary b. If no spark is noted at any gap, test the charge coil
ignition wire is connected to the No. 1 (top) as described in this chapter.
ignition coil, the orange/purple wire is con-
c. If spark is noted on at least one gap, continue at
nected to the No. 2 coil, the orange/green
wire is connected to the No. 3 coil and the Sensor Coil Output Test in this chapter.
orange/pink wire is connected to the No. 4 4. If testing is complete, reconnect the one-pin stop circuit
coil. Make sure the spark plug leads are connector.
CHAPTER THREE
Key Switch Ohmmeter Test two-pin connector. See Figure 53. Crank the engine and
note the meter at each connection.
If the engine does not stop when the key switch is turned a. Any voltage reading at either terminal indicates the
to OJ?F, an open circuit is present in the blacWyellow stop charge coil or charge coil wires are shorted to
circuit wire, the key switch is defective or the power pack ground. Repair the short or replace the stator assem-
is defective. bly as necessary.
1. Install the cap and lanyard assembly on the emergency b. If no voltage reading is noted, continue at Step 4.
stop switch. 4. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the
2. Disconnect the blacWyellow one-pin stop circuit con- two-pin stator connector. Connect the red test lead to
nector (Figure 52). terminal B. See Figure 54.
scale.
4. Insert a suitablejumper lead into the key switch end of
the stop circuit connector (Figure 52).
and the jumper lead.
a. With the key switch in the OFF position, the ohm-
meter should indicate continuity. If not, an open
One-pin stop
circuit is present in the blacWyellow wire between
the stop circuit connector and key switch, or the key
switch is defective.
b. With the key switch in the ON position, the ohmme-
ter should indicate no continuity. If the meter indi-
cates continuity, continue at Step 6.
6. Disconnect the black/yellow stop circuit wires from the
key switch M terminal. See Figure 52.
a. If the meter now indicates no continuity, the key
b. If continuity is still present, continue at Step 7.
7. Separate the emergency stop switch wire from the
wiring harness blacklyellow wire at the key switch.
a. If no continuity is now noted, the emergency stop
b. If continuity is still present, check the black/yellow
wire for a short to ground and repair as necessary.
reconnect the stop circuit connector.
Perform the following test to ensure the charge coil is

capable of producing sufficient voltage to charge the ca-
pacitor properly in the power pack and to make sure the
charge coil or charge coil wiring is not shorted to ground.
A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform
this test.
Spark tester
1. Disconnect the brown and brownlyellow wire two-pin
Amphenol connector between the stator assembly and
power pack.
2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500.
3. Connect the PRV between a good engine ground and
alternately to the A and B terminals in the stator end of the
TROUBLESHOOTING 85
5. Crank the engine while noting the meter. Charge coil

a. If output is 150 volts or more, reconnect the
two-pin connector and continue at Sensor Coil
Output Test.
b. I f output is less than 150 volts, inspect the condition
of the charge coil wires and connectors. If the wiring
and connectors are in acceptable condition, check
the charge coil resistance as outlined under Charge
Coil Resistance Test in this chapter.
Charge Coil
Resistance Test
temperature). Resistance tests on hot components will
indicate increased resistance and may result in unneces-
sary parts replacement without solving the basic prob-
lem.
1. Insert suitablejumper leads into the A and B terminals
in the stator two-pin connector.
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
Peak reading
voltmeter
CHAPTER THREE
3. Connect the ohmmeter between terminals A and B in

the two-pin connector. See Figure 55. Charge coil resis-
tance should be 430-530ohms.
4. Replace the stator assembly if charge coil resistance is
not as specilied.
5. Next, check the charge coil and wires for shorts to
ground. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-
ohm scale.
and alternately to the A and B terminals in the stator
two-pin connector. See Figure 56. Any continuitybetween
ground and either terminal indicates the charge coil or
charge coil wire(s) are shorted to ground.Locate and repair
the grounded wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as
necessary. See Chapter Seven.
reconnect the two-pin connector.
Sensor Coil Output Test
The sensor coil provides a voltage signal to the power

pack which triggers power pack 0utp~1.tto be directed to
the correct ignition coil primary circuit. Perform this test
to determine if the sensor coil is capable of producing a
sufficient voltage signal, and to ensure the sensor coil or
sensor coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak reading
voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
1. Disconnect the five-pin and four-pin connectors be-
tween the timer base and power pack.
2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 5 (SEN and
5 if using Stevens CD-77).
3. Connect the PRV test leads between a good engine
ground and alternately to each timer base terminal in the
five-pin (port) and four-pin (starboard) connectors. See
Figure 57.
4. Crank the engine and note the meter at each connection.
a. Any voltage reading at any connection indicates
sensor coil@) or sensor coil wire(s) is shorted to
ground. Locate and repair the short or replace the
timer base assembly as necessary.
b. If no voltage reading is noted at any connection,
continue at Step 5.
5. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal E in the
five-pin connector (port side). Connect the red test lead to
one timer base terminal in the four-pin connector (star-
board side). See Figure 58.
6. Crank the engine while noting the meter reading. Sen-
sor coil output should be 0.5 volt or more.
7. Alternately connect the red test lead to each remaining
timer base terminal in the four-pin connector, then the
five-pin connector. Crank the engine and note the meter at
each connection.
TROUBLESHOOTING 87
a. If output is 0.5 volt or more at each connection,

continue at Power Pack Output Test in this chapter.
b. If output is less than 0.5 volt at any connection, first
inspect the conditioii of the timer base wiring and
connectors. If the wiring - and connectors are in ac-
Cables from timer base ceptable condition, continue at Sensor Coil Resis-
tance Test in this chapter.
Sensor Coil Resistance Test

indicate increasedresistance and may result in unnecessary
parts replacement without solving the basic problem. The
ohmmeter should be calibrated on the R x 1000 or high-
connector
2. Connect the black ohmmeter lead to terminal E in the
-- port timer base connector (five-pin).
3. Alternately, connect the red ohmmeter lead to each
terminal in the starboard (four-pin) connector. Note the
meter at each connection.
4. If sensor coil resistance is within 130-160ohms at each
connection, continue at Step 5. If not, replace the timer
base assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
5. With the black ohmmeter lead connected to terminal E
in the port (five-pin) connector,connect the red lead to each
remaining terminal in the port connector. Note the meter
at each connection.
Timer
6. If sensor coil resistance is within 35-55 ohms at each
connection, continue at Step 7. If not, replace the timer
base assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
scale.
Peak reading and alternately to each timer base terminal in the port
(five-pin) and starboard (four-pin) connectors. No conti-
nuity should be present at each connection.
9. If continuity is present between any terminal and
ground, either the sensor coil(s) or sensor coil wire(s) is
shorted to ground. Locate and repair the short or replace
the timer base as necessary.
10. If testing is complete, reconnect the timer base con-
nectors.

WARNING
connector To prevent accidental starting, remove the
spark plug leads from the spark plugs. Se-
curely ground the plug leads to the power
head, or connect the leads to a spark testel:
CHAPTER THREE
A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens load adapt- orange/green wire is attached to the No. 3 ignition coil and
er (part No. PL-88) are necessary to test power pack output. the orangelpink wire is attached to the No. 4 ignition coil.
1. Disconnect the primary wires from each ignition coil. 3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500.
2. Connect the primary wire from the No. 1 coil (or- 4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the terminal extender
angeblue) to the red lead of the PL-88 load adapter. attached to the No. 1 ignition coil. Connect the black test
Connect the black load adapter lead to a good engine lead to a good engine ground.
ground. See Figure 59. 5. Start the engine and run at the speed at which the
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. malfunction is evident while obsewing the meter. Running
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the red load adapter output should be 180 volts or more.
lead. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine 6. Move the red PRV lead to the terminal extender at-
ground. tached to the No. 2 ignition coil and repeat Step 5. Note
5. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Power the meter reading.
pack output should be 150 volts or more. 7. Move the red PRV lead to the terminal extender at-
6. Repeat Steps 2-5 on the primary wire to each remaining tached to the No. 3 ignition coil. Repeat Step 5 while noting
ignition coil. Output should be 150 volts or more at each the meter reading.
primary wire. 8. Move the red PRV test lead to the terminal extender
a. If output is 150 volts or more at each primary wire, attached to the No. 4 ignition coil. Repeat Step 5 while
test ignition coil resistance as outlined in this chap- noting the meter reading.
ter. a. If output is less than 180 volts on one or more
b. If no output is noted at one or more primary wire, ignition coil(s), test the charge coil as described in
replace the power pack. See Chapter Seven. this chapter. If the charge coil is in acceptable con-
7. If testing is complete, remove the PL-88 load adapter dition, replace the power pack.
and reconnect the primary wires to the ignition coils. Make
sure the orangeblue wire is attached to the No. 1 coil, the
orangelpurple wire is attached to the No. 2 coil, the or-
angelgreen wire is attached to the No. 3 coil and the
orangelpink wire is attached to the No. 4 coil.
@
Ground
Running Output Test
A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens Terminal

forming the test.
CAUTION
adequate cooling water while running. Zn-
device.

mary wire is attached to the No. 1 ignition coil, the or-
angelpurple wire is attached to the No. 2 ignition coil, the
TROUBLESHOOTING
b. If no output (zero volt) is noted at one or more The SLOW function is activated by a signal from the
ignition coil(s), test the sensor coils as described in port or starboard engine temperature switch. The tempera-
this chapter. If the sensor coils are in acceptable ture switches are located in the top of each cylinder head.
condition, replace the power pack. The following conditions will cause the SLOW function
9. If testing is complete, remove the terminal extenders to remain activated:
and reconnect the primary wires to their respective ignition a. Engine overheated.
coils. b. Engine temperature switch or switch wire shorted to
ground.
c. Blocking diode closed or shorted to ground.
Ignition Coil
Resistance Test d. Defective power pack.
The following conditions will prevent the SLOW func-
Because resistance generally increases with tempera- tion from operating:
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine at room a. Engine temperature switch or switch wire open.
temperature (70" F [21° C]). Resistance tests on hot com- b. Defective power pack.
ponents will indicate increased resistance and may result c. Defective power coil.
in unnecessary parts replacement without solving the basic If the SLOW function is inoperative, test the temperature
problem. Ignition coil resistance can be checked without switches and SLOW system as follows:
coil removal. 1. Install the outboard motor in a test tank with the correct
1. Remove the primary wires and the spark plug wires test wheel installed. See Table 16.
from the ignition coil assembly. 2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to the rnanu-
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 or low-ohm scale. facturer's instructions.
3. To check primary winding resistance, connect the black 3. Disconnect the tan port and starboard temperature
ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground or to the coil switch wires from the engine harness wire.
ground tab if the coil is removed. Connect the red ohmme- 4. Start the engine and run at approximately 3500 rpm.
ter lead to the coil primary terminal. 5. Connect the engine harness end of the port tan wire to
4. Primary resistance should be 0.05-0.15 ohm. a clean engine ground and note the engine speed.
5. To check secondary winding resistance, calibrate the 6. Throttle back to idle speed, then stop the engine.
ohmmeter on the R x 100 or high-ohm scale. Connect the 7. Repeat Step 4 and 5 using the starboard tan wire.
red ohmmeter lead to the coil primary terminal and the a. If engine speed reduces to approximately 2500 rpm
black lead to the spark plug terminal. when each tan wire is grounded, test the temperature
6. Secondary resistance should be 225-325 ohms. switch as described in this chapter.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 on each remaining coil. b. If engine speed reduces when one temperature
8. Replace the coil if resistance is not as specified. switch tan wire is grounded, but not the other, check
the engine wiring harness and connectors and repair
9. To check the spark plug leads, calibrate the ohmmeter
as necessary.
on R x 1 or low-ohm scale. Connect the ohmmeter to each
end of the lead and note the meter. The resistance should c. If engine speed does not reduce as specified when
be nearly zero ohm. either tan wire is grounded, continue at Step 8.
8. Loosen the power pack and disconnect the orange and
orangelblack power coil wires from the terminal block.
SLOW Operation and Testing 9. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
scale.
All models are equipped with the speed limiting over- 10. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
heat warning (SLOW) system. The system is designed to and alternately to each power coil wire (orange and or-
limit engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm if engine angelblack). See Figure 60.
temperature exceeds 203" F (95" C). To deactivate SLOW, 11. No continuity should be present between ground and
throttle back to idle, allow the engine to cool to 147-177O either power coil wire.
F (64-81' C), then stop the engine. a. If continuity is noted, either the power coil or power
A blocking diode located in the engine wiring harness is coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and repair
used to isolate the SLOW warning system from the other the shorted wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as
warning systems. Should the blocking diode become necessary.
shorted, the SLOW function will remain activated regard- b. If no continuity is noted, continue at Step 12.
less of engine temperature. 12. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
CHAPTER THREE
13. Connect the ohmmeter between the orange and or- 5. Note the ohmmeter reading, then reverse the leads.
angehlack power coil wires. See Figure 61. 6. A high reading (no continuity) in one direction and a
a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms, re- low reading (continuity) in the other should be noted. If
place the power pack. both readings are low, the diode is shorted (closed) and
b. If power coil resistance is not within 86-106 ohms, must be replaced. If both readings are high, the diode is
replace the stator assembly. See Chapter Seven. open and must be replaced.
CAUTION
Do not start the engine with the orange and QuikStart Operation and Testing
orangehlackpower coil wires disconnected.
All models are equipped with the QuikStart electronic
14. If testing is complete, reconnect the orange and or- starting system. The QuikStart circuit automatically ad-
angehlack power coil wires to the terminal block. Rein- vances the ignition timing when the engine temperature is
stall the power pack.
Blocking Diode Test

A blocking diode is used to prevent the SLOW function
from being activated by other engine warning horn sys-
tems. The blocking diode is located in the engine wiring
harness.
If the SLOW function is activated by the no oil, low oil
or fuel vacuum warning signal, test the engine harness
blocking diode as follows:
1995 Models
1. Disconnect the red engine harness connector.
2. Disconnect the port and starboard temperature
switches from the engine harness (Figure 62, typical).
scale.
4. Connect the ohmmeter between either temperature
switch tan wire (engine harness side) and the tan wire ter-
minal in the red engine harness connector. See Figure 63.
5. Note the ohmmeter reading, then reverse the leads.
6. A high reading (no continuity) in one direction and a
low reading (continuity) in the other should be noted. If
both readings are low, the diode is shorted (closed) and
must be replaced. If both readings are high, the diode is
0 Stator
open and must be replaced.
1996-2002 models
1. Disconnect the six-pin engine harness connector. This
connector holds several tan wires.
scale.
switch connector tan wire (engine harness end) and the tan
wire terminal in the six-pin engine harness connector.
I
TROUBLESHOOTING 91
I
less than 96" F (36" C) to improve engine warm-up. The

ignition timing remains advanced until engine temperature
exceeds approximately 96" F (36" C). In addition, Quik-
Start also advances the ignition timing for approximately
5 seconds each time the engine is started, regardless of
engine temperature. To prevent power head damage due to
detonation, the power pack disables QuikStart at engine
speeds exceeding approximately 1100 rpm, regardless of
engine temperature.
To determine if QuikStart is functioning properly, pro-
ceed as follows:
1. Remove the propeller and install the correct test wheel
(Table 16).
2. Place the outboard motor in a suitable test tank. Start
the engine and warm it to normal operating temperature.
Engine temperature must be above 96" F (36" C) before
running this test.
NOTE
Make sure engine synchronization and link-
age adjustments are correctly set as outlined
in Chapter Five.
3. Place temporary marks on the flywheel indicating TDC

for all cylinders.
4. Disconnect the whitelblack temperature switch wire
between the power pack and the port temperature switch.
See Figure 64, typical.
Engine temperature
Engine harness connector Tan or tanlblue

wire (temperature
switch)
CHAPTER THREE
5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the power head ac- a. If the meter indicates low resistance (continuity) in
cording to its manufacturer's instructions. Step 3, test the temperature switch as described in
6. Attach a timing light to the No. 1 cylinder according to this chapter.
its manufacturer's instructions. b. If the meter indicates high resistance in Step 3,
7. Start the engine and shift into forward gear. Idle speed continue at Step 4.
must not exceed 900 rpm in gear during this test. Adjust 4. Loosen the power pack and disconnect the orange and
idle speed if necessary. orangeblack power coil wires from the terminal block.
8. Observe the flywheel with the timing light. The No. 1 5. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
cylinder TDC mark should be near the timing pointer, scale.
indicating the QuikStart system is functioning. 6. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
9. While observing the timing marks, momentarily con- and alternately to the power coil orange and orangehlack
nect the whitehlack temperature switch wire. The timing wires. See Figure 60. No continuity should be present
mark should shift to the left approximately 1 in. (25.4 mni) between either power coil wire and ground. If continuity,
when the wire is connected, indicating that QuikStart has is noted, repair the shorted power coil wire or replace the
returned the timing to the normal setting. stator assembly as necessary. See Chapter Seven.
NOTE 7. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
The engine must be stopped before testing 8. Connect the ohmmeter between the power coil orange
each remaining cylinder to reset the Quik- and orangehlack wires. See Figure 61.
Start circuit. a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms,
replace the power pack.
10. Stop the engine. Repeat Steps 6-10 for each remaining b. If power coil is not within 86-106 ohms, replace the
cylinder. stator assembly.
a. If one or more cylinders do not react as specified 9. If testing is complete, reconnect all circuits discon-
(Step 9), replace the timer base assembly. See Chap- nected during this procedure.
ter Seven.
b. If no cylinders react as specified (Step 9), refer to
QuikStart inoperative in this chapter. QuikStart always on
c. If all cylinders react as specified in Step 9, the
QuikStart circuit is functioning properly. The following conditions can cause the QuikStart circuit
to remain on constantly:
a. Engine overcooling (not warming up to operating
QuikStart inoperative
temperature).
The following conditions will cause the QuikStart cir- b. Defective temperature switch.
cuit to be inoperative: c. Defective power pack.
a. Defective power coil. d. Defective starter solenoid or key switch.
b. Defective power pack. If QuikStart remains on constantly when the engine is
c. Defective timer base (sensor coil[s]). operated above 1100 rpm, the power pack is defective and
d. An open circuit in the yellowlred wire between the must be replaced. If QuikStart remains on constantly re-
power pack and starter solenoid or key switch. gardless of time on and engine temperature, when the
Troubleshoot the QuikStart circuit as follows: engine is operated below 1100 rpm, continue as follows:
1. Disconnect the whitehlack wire between the port tem- 1. Check for a defective starter solenoid or key switch,
perature switch and power pack (Figure 64). which may cause a small amount of voltage to bleed into
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm the yellowlred wire leading to the power pack. This small
scale. amount of voltage can activate the QuikStart circuit.
2. Check for a defective or damaged port side engine
NOTE temperature switch as described in this chapter.
Engine temperature must be less than 89" F
3. Check for an open circuit or loose or corroded connec;
(32" C) in Step 3.
tions in the whiteblack power pack wire.
3. Connect the ohmmeter between the temperature switch 4. Check the engine for an overcooling condition as de-
whiteblack wire and a good engine ground. The ohmmeter scribed in this chapter.
should indicate no continuity with the engine temperature 5. If no other problems are noted in Steps 1-4,replace the
less than 89" F (32" C). power pack. See Chapter Seven.
TROUBLESHOOTING
RPM Limiting Power Pack speed misfire or erratic operation, refer to Indexing Fly-
wheel and Running Output Test. Unless specified other-
Power packs marked CDL are equipped with an internal wise, perform the following ignition system tests in the
rpm limiting device designed to prevent power head dam- sequence given. Skipping tests or jumping around the
age from overspeeding. On models so equipped, the power troubleshooting procedure can result in misleading results
pack interrupts ignition if engine speed exceeds 6700 rpm. and unnecessary parts replacement. Test the entire ignition
Make sure the correct power pack is used if replacement is system-more than one component may be defective.
necessary.
Indexing Flywheel
OIS2000 IGNITION SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING (60" V4 AND V6 If the outboard motor runs erratically, or if a high-speed
[LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS) misfire is noted, the power pack may be defective. Internal
power pack malfunctions can cause erratic ignition system
The major components of the OIS2000 (optical ignition operation. Perform the following procedure to ensure the
system) used on 60" V4 and V6 loop-charged models power pack is firing at the correct time.
include the flywheel, charge coil (two charge coils on V6
models), power coil, optical timing sensor, timing wheel,
(Table 16).
power pack, two dual-ignition coils (threeignition coils on
V6 models), two temperature switches, shift switch and CAUTION
related wiring. The outboard motor must be supplied with
The charge coils and power coil are contained in the adequate cooling water while running.
stator assembly and are not serviced separately.The power Place the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
coil provides voltage for the operation of QuikStart, the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at
SLOW, the timing sensor and other ignition functions. The high speed while connected to a flushing
timing sensor consists of two separate sensors. One sensor device.
provides a signal for each revolution of the flywheel and
is used to determine crankshaft position. The other sensor 2. Place the outboard in a suitable test tank.
provides four supplemental timing signals (six signals on 3. Start the motor and run at the speed at which the
V6 models) and one additional signal to prevent the engine malfunction is evident.
from running in reverse rotation. The power pack is con- 4. Alternately connect an induction timing light to the
tained in a one-piece assembly and is not serviced sepa- spark plug wire to each cylinder. Note the timing marks
rately. adjacent to the timing pointer (A, Figure 65).
If the outboard motor is very hard or impossible to start, NOTE
begin the troubleshooting procedure at Total Output Test. The cylinder numbers are embossed in the
If an ignition malfunction is causing an intermittent high- timing wheel (B, Figure 65) along its outer
periphery. The TDC mark on the timing grid
represents the No. 1 cylindel:
5. The timing light should indicate the number of the

cylinder connected to the timing light. For example, if the
timing light is connected to the No. 2 spark plug wire, the
No. 2 mark should be visible. In addition, the number
should only appear near the timing pointer.
6. If a different cylinder number appears, or if the number
jumps around or appears at other than the timing pointer,
first make sure the primary ignition wires and spark plug
wires are properly connected. The primary wires must be
connected as follows:
a. Orangehlue wires-top ignition coil assembly.
b. Orange wires-V6 center ignition coil assembly.
c. Orangelgreen wires-bottom ignition coil assem-
bly.
94 CHAPTER THREE
If the primary wires and spark plug wires are properly lanyard emergency stop switch are connected to the power
connected, replace the power pack. pack through the engine wiring harness. Activating the stop
circuit shorts the power pack output to ground, which
disables the ignition system and stops the engine.
Total Output Test
1. Disconnect the Packard connector on the port side
The total output test determines if the ignition system is between the power pack and key switch. This is a five-pin
capable of delivering adequate spark to the spark plugs. connector on V6 models as shown in Figure 66. On V4
Perform the output test with the spark plugs installed and models the connector has four wires (blacklyellow, tan,
properly tightened. whiteblack and yellowlred).
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the spark plugs. 2. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
2. Mount a suitable spark tester on the engine and connect a. If spark is now noted at each spark gap, the problem
the spark plug leads to the tester. See Figure 45. Make sure is in the stop circuit. Continue at Key Switch Ohm-
the spark tester mounting clip is secured to a good clean meter Test.
engine ground. b. If no spark is noted at all spark gaps, continue at
3. Adjust the spark tester spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1 mrn). Eming Sensor Test.
4. Connect the cutoff clip and lanyard to the emergency 3. Remove the spark tester. Reconnect the spark plug
stop switch, if so equipped. wires to the spark plugs.
4. Reconnect the Packard connector.
NOTE
If acceptable spark is noted at each spark
gap during the total output test, but the en- Key Switch Ohmmeter Test
gine pops or bac@res during starting or
running, the ignition system may be out of 1995 Models
time. Make certain the primary ignition
wires are properly connected and the spark If the engine will not stop when the key switch is turned
plug leads are routed correctly. Make sure OFF, test the key switch as outlined in this chapter.
the timing wheel is correctly located, the If the engine will not stop when the clip is removed from
timing sensor is operating properly and the the emergency stop switch, replace the emergency stop
timing sensor cover is properly located. switch.
Make sure the timing and throttle linkages
If the engine will not stop when the key switch is turned
are properly synchronized.
OFF and the clip is removed from the emergency stop
5. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
a. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap and the
outboard runs properly, the problem is not in the
ignition system. Check the fuel and fuel delivery
systems.
b. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, but
the outboard has a high-speed misfire, continue at
Running Output Test.
c. I f acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, but
the outboard does not start, continue at Power Coil
Output Test.
d. If no spark is noted at one spark gap, continue at
Power Pack Output Test.
e. I f no spark is noted on three cylinders of a V6 model,
continue at Shift Switch Test.
f. I f no spark is noted at all spark gaps, continue at Stop
Circuit Test. Do not remove the spark tester.
Stop Circuit Test

tial cause of an ignition malfunction. The key switch and
TROUBLESHOOTING
switch, check for an open circuit in the wires between the If the engine will not stop when the clip is removed from
power pack and key switch. the emergency stop switch, replace the emergency stop
1. Disconnect the Packard connector on the port side be- switch. I
tween the power pack and key switch. Thls is a five-pin If the engine will not stop when the key switch is turned
connector on V6 models as shown in Figure 66. On V4 OFF and the clip is removed from the emergency stop
models the connector has four wires (blacklyellow, tan, switch, check for an open circuit in the wires between the
whiteblack and yellowlred). power pack and key switch. Failure to stop may also be due
2. Connect the test adapter from OMC Ignition Test Kit to a faulty power pack. If the starboard cylinders on V6
(part No. 437270 for V4 models or part No. 434017 for models will not shut off, the shift intempter diode may be
V6 models) to the engine wiring harness connector. If the faulty.
test adapter is not available, insert suitable jumper leads 1. Disconnect the Packard connector on the port side be-
into the wire terminals in the engine harness connector. tween the power pack and key switch. This is a five-pin
3. Install the emergency stop switch clip and lanyard, if so connector on V6 models as shown in Figure 66. On V4
equipped. models the connector has four wires (blacklyellow, tan,
4. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm whiteblack and yellowlred). I
scale. 2. Connect the test adapter from OMC Ignition Test Kit
5. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground (part No. 437270 for V4 models or part No. 434017 for V6
and the blacklyellow engine harness wire on V4 models or models) to the engine wiring harness connector. If the test
to either blacklyellow wire on V6 models. adapter is not available, insert suitable jumper leads into
a. With the key switch OFF, the ohmmeter should indi- the wire terminals in the engine harness connector.
cate continuity. 3. Install the emergency stop switch clip and lanyard, if so
b. With the key switch ON, the ohmmeter should indi- equipped.
cate no continuity. 4. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
6. On V6 models, repeat Step 5 with the ohmmeter con- scale.
nected to the remaining blacklyellow wire. 5. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
and the black/yellow engine harness wire. I
NOTE
a. With the key switch OFF, the ohmmeter should indi-
If both ohmmeter tests are good, the block-
ing diode in the power pack is shorted. Re- cate continuity.
I
place the power pack as described in b. With the key switch ON, the ohmmeter should indi-
Chapter Seven. cate no continuity.
6. If continuity is noted during the key ON test (Steps $
7. If continuity is noted during the key ON test (Steps 4 and 5 ) , disconnect the wiring harness blacklyellow
and 5), disconnect the wiring harness blacklyellow wires wires from the key switch M terminal and note the me-
from the key switch M terminal and note the meter. ter.
a. Ifthe ohmmeter now indicates no continuity, replace a. Ifthe ohmmeter now indicates no continuity, replace
the key switch assembly. the key switch assembly.
b. If continuity is still present, continue at Step 8. b. If continuity is still present, continue at Step 7. i
8. Disconnect the emergency stop switch wire from the 7. Disconnect six-pin connector from the key switch.
engine harness blacklyellow wire at the key switch and a. If the ohmmeter indicates no continuity, repair or re-
note the meter. place key switch wiring harness. I
a. Ifthe ohmmeter now indicates no continuity, replace b. If the ohmmeter indicates continuity, proceed to
the emergency stop switch. Step 8. I
b. If continuity is still present, check the engine wiring 8. Disconnect the six-pin connector from the engine to in-
harness for a short in the stop circuit. strument panel wiring harness. The wiring harness in-
9. Remove the test adapter and reconnect the power pack cludes the blacWyellow wire. I
connector and all other circuits disconnected during this a. If the ohmmeter indicates no continuity, repair or re-
test. place the instrument wiring harness. I
b. If the ohmmeter indicates continuity, repair or re-

1996-2002 models place the engine wiring harness.
9. Remove the test adapter and reconnect the power pack
If the engine will not stop when the key switch is turned connector and all other circuits disconnected during t y
OFF, test the key switch as outlined in this chapter. test. I
96 CHAPTER THREE
Shift Switch Test V6 Models b. If cylinders 1, 3 and 5 still do not have spark, con-
tinue at Charge Coil Output Test.
The shift switch on V6 models momentarily interrupts 4. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R ) 1000 or high-ohm
ignition to cylinders 1,3 and 5 when the outboard motor is scale.
shifted into or out of gear. This power interruption causes 5A. 1995 models-Connect the ohmmeter between the
the outboard to shift easier. shift switch black/yellow wire (A, Figure 69) and a good
Perform the following test if no spark is noted on cylin- engine ground. The ohmmeter should indicate no continu-
ders 1, 3 and 5 during the Total Output Test. ity (high resistance). If not, replace the shift switch and
1. Connect a spark tester as outlined under Total Output wiring harness.
Test. 5B. 1996-2002 models-Connect the ohmmeter between
2A. 1995 models-Isolate the shift switch by discon- the shift switch black/yellow wire (A, Figure 70) and a
necting the black/yellow wire at the two connectors good engine ground. The ohmmeter should indicate no
between the power pack and shift switch. See Figure continuity. If not, replace the shift switch and wiring har-
67. ness.
2B. 1996-2002 models-Isolate the shift switch by dis- 6. Activate the shift switch by pushing downward on the
connecting the blacklyellow wire at the connector between shift cable pin and note the meter. The ohmmeter should
the power pack and shift switch. See Figure 68. now indicate continuity. If not, replace the shift switch and
3. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester. wiring harness.
a. If cylinders 1, 3 and 5 now have good spark, con- 7A. 1995 models-Next, connect the ohmmeter between
tinue at Step 4. both shift switch one-pin terminals (A and B, Figure 69).
SHIFT INTERRUPTER
SHIFT INTERRUPTER SWITCH CIRCUIT SWITCH CIRCUIT
(1995 150 AND 175 HP) (1996-1998 150 AND 175 HP)
Shift interrupter switch

Disconnect to
TROUBLESHOOTING 97
Note the meter, then reverse the ohmmeterleads. No conti.

nuity should be noted in one reading and continuity should
be noted in the other. If continuity, or no continuity is
noted in both readings, the blocking diode in the wiring
Voltage regulatorlrectifier Shift switch harness is defective. Replace the shift switch and harness
assembly.
7B. 1996-2002 models-Next, connect one ohmmeter
lead to the power pack end of connector (A,Figure 70).
Disconnect multi-wire connector (B, Figure 70).Connect,
remaining ohmmeter lead to pin No. 1 of power pack end
of connector (B). Note the meter, then reverse the ohmme-
ter leads. No continuity should be noted in one reading and
continuity should be noted in the other. If continuity, or na
continuity is noted in both readings, the blocking diode in
the wiring harness is defective. Replace the shift switch
and harness assembly.
8. If the shift switch tests good, reconnect the one-piq
connectors and continue at Charge Coil Output Test.
Power Coil Output Test
The power coil provides voltage to operate QuikStart,

Emergency stop switch Key switch SLOW, the timing sensor and other ignition functions.
Should the power coil fail, the outboard motor will not
start.
A peak-reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform
this test.
1. Detach the Packard connector (Figure 71) from the
starboard side of the power pack. The connector may be:
identified by the wire colors which are tan or brown.
Voltage regulator/rectlfier Shm swltch
Emergency stop swltch Key switch
CHAPTER THREE
2. Connect the Packard test adapter from OMC Ignition Timing Sensor Test
Test Kit (part No. 437270 for V4 models or part No.
434017 for V6 models) to the stator connector. If the test NOTE
adapter is not available, insert suitable jumper leads into Bright light can disrupt the operation of the
the orange and orangeblack wire terminals in the stator optical timing sensor Avoid running the out-
connector. board in bright sunlight with the timing
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. wheel cover removed. Do not aim a timing
4. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground. light directly at the timing sensor
Alternately connect the remaining test lead to the orange
and orangeblack stator wires in the stator connector. OMC Ignition Analyzer part No. 434017 (Figure 72) is
5. Crank the engine at each connection and note the meter necessary to test the optical timing sensor. The sensor
reading. cannot be tested using conventional test equipment. If the
a. Any voltage reading indicates the power coil or ignition analyzer is not available, have the timing sensor
power coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and tested at an OMC dealership or other qualified marine
repair the shorted wire(s) or replace the stator assem- specialist.
bly as outlined in Chapter Seven. 1. Remove the voltage regulatorlrectifier cover.
b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 6. 2. Disconnect the timing sensor connector (Figure 73)
6. Connect the black PRV test lead to the orange stator from the timing sensor.
wire. Comect the red test lead to the orangelblack stator 3. Attach the ignition analyzer (part No. 434017) to the
wire. timing sensor (Figure 74).
7. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Power coil 4. Set the analyzer switch to position B for V4 models or
output should be 50 volts or more. position A for V6 models.
a. If output is 50 volts or more, remove the Packard test
adapter and reconnect the connector. Continue at 5. Press the analyzer RESET button.
Eming Sensor Test. 6. Crank the engine a minimum of three revolutions while
b. If output is less than 50 volts, inspect the stator observing the meter.
wiring and connectors and repair as necessary. If the
wiring and connectors are in acceptable condition,
continue at Power Coil Resistance Test.
Power Coil Resistance Test

1. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
2. Connect the ohmmeter between the orange and or-
angeblack wire terminals in the stator connector.
3. Resistance should be 45-65 ohms. If not, replace the
stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
4. Next, comect the ohmmeter between a good engine
ground and alternately to the orange and orangeblack
stator terminals.
5. Any continuity between ground and either stator wire
indicates the power coil or power coil wire(s) is shorted to
ground. Locate and repair the shorted wire(s) or replace
the stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
6. Remove the test adapter or jumper leads and reconnect
the stator-to-power pack connector.
TROUBLESHOOTING
a. If the GOOD indicator light flashes while the engine pacitor properly in the power pack and to make sure the
is being cranked, continue at Power Pack Output charge coil or charge coil wiring is not shorted to ground.
Test. A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform
b. If the BAD indicator light flashes whle the engine this test.
is being cranked, inspect the condition of the timing 1. Detach the Packard connector (Figure 71) from the
wheel. If the timing wheel is in good condition, starboard side of the power pack. The connector may be
replace the timing sensor as outlined in Chapter identified by the wire colors which are tan or brown.
Seven. 2. Connect the Packard test adapter from the OMC Test
7. Remove the ignition analyzer and reconnect the wiring Kit (part No. 437270) to the stator connector. If the test
harness to the timing sensor. Reinstall the voltage regula- adapter is not available, insert suitable jumper leads into
tortrectifier cover. the brown and browdwhite terminals in the stator connec-
tor.
4. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine
V4 Models ground. Connect the red test lead to either the brown or
browdwhite stator wire. Crank the engine while observ-
Perform the following test to ensure the charge coil is ing the meter at each connection.
capable of producing sufficient voltage to charge the ca- 5. Reconnect the red test lead to the remaining brown or
browdwhite stator wire.
6. Crank the engine while observing the meter at each
connection.
a. Any voltage reading indicates the charge coil or
charge coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and
repair the short as necessary or replace the stator as-
sembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
b. If no voltage reading is noted, continue at Step 7.
7. Connect the black PRV test lead to the brown stator
wire. Connect the red test lead to the brownlwhite stator
wire.
8. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Charge
coil output should be 250 volts or more.
a. If output is 250 volts or more, remove the six-pin
Packard adapter (or jumper leads), reconnect the
stator connector and continue at Power Pack Output
Test in this chapter.
b. If output is less than 250 volts, inspect the stator wir-
ing and connector and repair as necessary. If the
wires and connector are in acceptable condition,
continue at Charge Coil Resistance Test.
V6 Models
1. Disconnect the six-pin starboard Packard connector be-

tween the stator and power pack. See Figure 71.
2. Connect the six-pin Packard test adapter from the OMC
Test Kit (part No. 434017) to the six-pin stator connector.
If the test adapter is not available, insert suitable jumper
leads into the brown and browrdyellow terminals in the
stator connector.
4. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground.
Alternately connect the remaining test lead to the brown
CHAPTER THREE
and browdyellow stator wires. Crank the engine while ground and alternately to the brown and browdyellow
observing the meter at each connection. terminals in the stator connector.
5. Move the jumper leads to the brownlblack and a. No continuity should be present between ground and
brownlwhite terminals in the stator connector. any stator terminals.
6. Connect the PRV test leads between a good engine b. If continuity is present, the charge coil(s) or charge
ground and alternately to the brownlblack and coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and repair
browdwhite stator wires. Crank the engine while observ- the shorted wire(s) or replace the stator assembly
ing the meter at each connection. (Chapter Seven) as necessary.
a. Any voltage reading indicates the charge coil or 8. Remove the Packard test adapter (or jumper leads) and
charge coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and reconnect the stator-to-power pack connector.
repair the short as necessary or replace the stator
assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
b. If no voltage reading is noted, continue at Step 7. Power Pack Output Test
7. Connect the black PRV test lead to the brown stator WARNING
wire. Connect the red test lead to the browdyellow stator To prevent accidental starting, remove the
wire. spark plug leads j b m the spark plugs. Se-
8. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Charge curely ground the plug leads to the power
coil output should be 150 volts or more. head, or connect the leads to a spark testel:
9. Move the black PRV test lead to the brownlblack stator
wire and the red test lead to the brownlwhite stator wire. A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevensload ad
10. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Charge er (part No. PL-88) are necessary to test power pack outp
coil output should be 150 volts or more. 1. Remove the ignition cover and disconnect the prim
a. If output is 150 volts or more, remove the six-pin wires from each ignition coil.
Packard adapter (or jumper leads), reconnect the 2. Connect the primary wire from the No. 1coil to the r
stator connector and continue at Power Pack Output lead of the PL-88 load adapter. Connect the black lo
Test in this chapter. adapter lead to a good engine ground. See Figure 75.
b. If output is less than 150 volts, inspect the stator 3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500.
wiring and connector and repair as necessary. If the 4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the red load
wires and connector are in acceptable condition, lead. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good
continue at Charge Coil Resistance Test. ground.
5. Crank the engine while observing the meter.
pack output should be 200 volts or more for V4 mo
Charge Coil Resistance Test 100 volts or more for V6 models.
Because resistance generally increases with tempera- 6. Repeat Steps 2-5 on the primary wire to each remai
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine cold (room ignition coil.
temperature). Resistance tests on hot components will a. If voltage output equals or exceeds desired volt
indicateincreased resistance and may result in unnecessary reading at each primary wire, test ignition coil res
parts replacement without solving the basic problem. tance as outlined in this chapter.
1. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the appropriate scale. b. If no output is noted at one primary wire, replace
2A. V4 models--Connect the ohmmeter between the power pack. See Chapter Seven.
brown and browdwhite terminals in the stator connector. 7. If testing is complete, remove the PL-88 load
2B. V6 models--Connect the ohmmeter between the and reconnect the primary wires to the ignition coils.
brown and browdyellow terminals in the stator six-pin sure the orangehlue primary wires are attached to the top
connector. ignition coils, the orange primary wires are attached to the
3. Resistance should be 1000-1200 ohms on V4 models center ignition coils on V6 models and the orangelgreen
or 495-605 ohms on V6 models. If not, replace the stator primary wires are attached to the bottom ignition coils.
assembly (Chapter Seven). Reinstall the ignition cover.
4. Next, calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-
ohm scale. Running Output Test
5. On V4 models, connect the ohmmeter between a good
engine ground and alternately to the brown and A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens Terminal
browdwhite terminals in the stator connector. On V6 Extenders (part No. TS-77) are necessary to perform the
models, connect the ohmmeter between a good engine running output test. Running the outboard under load is
TROUBLESHOOTING
often necessary to locate the cause of an intermittent 4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the tenninal extender
malfunction or high-speed misfire, especially if good spark attached to the No. 1 ignition coil. Connect the black test
is noted during the Total Output Test.Remove the propeller lead to a good engine ground.
and install the correct test wheel (Table 16) prior to per- 5. Start the engine and run at the speed at which the
forming the test. malfunction is evident while observing the meter. Running
CAUTION 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 with the red PRV test lead con-
The outboard motor must be supplied with nected to the terminal extender on each remaining ignition
adequate cooling water while running. In- coil.
stall the motor in a test tank or on a boat in a. If output is less than 130 volts on one or more
the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at ignition coils, test charge coils as described in this
high speed while connected to a flushing chapter.
device.
b. If no output (zero volt) is noted at one or more
ignition coil, test the power pack output as outlined
1. Remove the ignition cover and remove the primary in this chapter.
wires from each ignition coil. 7. If testing is complete, remove the terminal extenders
and reconnect the primary wires to their respective ignition
2. Install a Stevens Terminal Extender (part No. TS-77) coils. Make sure the orangehlue wires are attached to the
on each coil primary terminal. Connect the primary wires top coils, the orange wires are attached to the center coils
to the terminal extenders. Make sure the orangeblue pri- on V6 models and the orangelgreen wires are attached to
mary wires are connected to the top ignition coils, the the bottom coils. Reinstall the ignition cover.
orange primary wires are attached to the center ignition
coils and the orangelgreen primary wires are attached to
the bottom ignition coils. Ignition Coil Resistance Test
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. Because resistance generally increases with tempera-
ture, perform resistance tests with the engine at room
temperature (70" F [21° C]). Resistance tests on hot com-
0 Ground
ponents will indicate increased resistance and may result
in unnecessary parts replacement without solving the basic
problem. Ignition coil resistance can be checked without
coil removal. Note that each ignition coil assembly con-
tains two separate coils.
1. Remove the primary wires and the spark plug wires
from the ignition coil assembly.
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 or low-ohm scale.
3. To check primary winding resistance, connect the black
ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground or to the coil
ground tab if the coil is removed. Connect the red ohmme-
ter lead to the coil primary terminal.
4. Primary resistance should be 0.05-0.15 ohm.
5. To check secondary winding resistance, calibrate the
ohmmeter on the R x 100 or high-ohm scale. Connect the
red ohmmeter lead to the coil primary tenninal and the
black lead to the spark plug terminal.
6. Secondary resistance should be 225-325 ohms.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 on each remaining coil.
8. Replace the coil if resistance is not as specified.
9. To check the spark plug leads, calibrate the ohmmeter
on R x 1 or low-ohm scale. Connect the ohmmeter to each
end of the lead and note the meter. The resistance should
be nearly zero ohm.
CHAPTER THREE
SLOW Operation and Testing and connectors are in acceptable condition, replace
the power pack (Chapter Seven).
All models are equipped with the speed limiting over-
heat warning (SLOW) system. The system is designed to
limit engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm if engine Blocking Diode Test
temperature exceeds 240" F (1 14" C). To deactivate A blocking diode is used to prevent the SLOW function
SLOW, throttle back to idle, allow the engine to cool to from being activated by other engine warning horn sys-
207" F (110" C), then stop the engine. tems. The blocking diode is located in the engine wiring
A blocking diode located in the engine wiring harness is harness.
used to isolate the SLOW warning system from the other If the SLOW function is activated by the no oil, low oil
warning systems. Should the blocking diode become or fuel vacuum warning signal, test the engine harness
shorted, the SLOW function will remain activated regard- blocking diode as follows:
less of engine temperahue.
The SLOW function is activated by a signal from the
port or starboard engine temperature switch. The tempera- 1995 Models
ture switches are located in the top of each cylinder head.
The following conditions will cause the SLOW function
2. Disconnect the port and starboard temperature switches
to remain activated: from the engine harness (Figure 76, typical).
a. Engine overheated. 3. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
b. Engine temperature switch or switch wire shorted to scale.
ground. 4. Connect the ohmmeter between either temperature
c. Blocking diode closed or shorted to ground. switch tan or tanblue wire (engine harness side) and the
d. Defective power pack. tan wire terminal in the red engine harness connector. See
The following conditions will prevent the SLOW func- Figure 77.
tion from operating: 5. Note the ohmmeter reading, then reverse the leads.
a. Engine temperature switch or switch wire open. 6. A high reading (no continuity) in one direction and a
b. Defective power pack. low reading (continuity) in the other should be noted. If
c. Defective power coil.
If the SLOW function is inoperative, test the temperature
switches and SLOW system as follows.
1. Install the outboard motor in a test tank with the correct
test wheel installed. See Table 16.
2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu-
facturer's instructions.
3. Disconnect the port and starboard tan1bIue temperature
switch wires from the engine harness tan wires.
4. Start the engine and run at approximately 3500 rpm.
5. Connect the engine harness end of the port tan wire to
a clean engine ground and note the engine speed.
6. Throttle back to idle speed, then stop the engine.
7. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 using the starboard tan wire.
a. If engine speed reduces to approximately 2500 rprn
when each tan wire is grounded, test the temperature
switches as described in this chapter.
b. If engine speed reduces when one temperature
switch tan wire is grounded, but not the other, check
as necessary.
c. If engine speed does not reduce as specified when
either tan wire is grounded, inspect the temperature
switch wires and connectors and power pack wires
and connectors and repair as necessary. If all wires
TROUBLESHOOTING

1996-2002 Models
scale.
Engine harness connector Tan or 5. Note the ohmmeter reading, then reverse the leads.
tanlblue wire 6. A high reading (no continuity) in one direction and a
(temperature low reading (continuity) in the other should be noted. If
switch) both readings are low, the diode is shorted (closed) and
QuikStart Operation and Testing

starting system. The QuikStart circuit automatically ad-
vances the ignition timing when the engine temperature is
less than 105" F (41" C) to improve engine warm-up. The
ignition timing remains advanced until engine tempera-
ture exceeds approximately 105" F (41" C). In addition,
QuikStart also advances the ignition timing for approxi-
mately five seconds each time the engine is started,regard-
less of engine temperature. To prevent power head damage
due to detonation, the power pack disables QuikStart at en-
gine speeds exceeding approximately 1100 rpm, regard-
less of engine temperature.
ceed as follows.
(Table 16).
running this test.
NOTE
in Chapter Five.
3. Remove the engine harness bracket.
4. Disconnect the whitelblack wire between the power
pack and port temperature switch. See Figure 78, typical.
CHAPTER THREE
5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the power head ac- wheel and Running Output Test. Unless specified other-
cording to the manufacturer's instructions. wise, perfom the following ignition system tests in the
6A. V4 models-Attach a timing light to the No. 2 cylinder sequence given. Skipping tests or jumping around the
according to its manufacturer's instructions. troubleshooting procedure can result in misleading results
6B. V6 models-Attach a timing light to the No. 1cylinder and unnecessary parts replacement. Test the entire ignition
according to its manufacturer's instructions. system-more than one component may be defective.
7. Start the engine and shift into forward gear. Idle speed
must not exceed 900 rpm in gear during this test. Adjust
idle speed if necessary. Indexing Flywheel
8. Observe the timing wheel with the timing light.
a. V4 models-The timing pointer must be left of the If the outboard motor runs erratically, or if a high-speed
number 2 cast in the flywheel See Figure 79. rnisfue is noted, the power pack may be defective. Internal
b. V6 models-The tirning pointer should be near 4-6" power pack malfunctions can cause erratic ignition system
BTDC, indicating QuikStart is functioning. operation. Perform the following procedure to ensure the
9. If QuikStart fails to advance the ignition timing in Step power pack is firing at the correct time.
8, check for proper operation of the power pack and timing 1. Remove the spark plugs.
wheel.
10. While observing the timing marks, momentarily con-
nect the whitefblack temperature switch wire.
a. V4 models-The timing pointer must be right of the
number 2 cast in the flywheel, which indicates that
Quikstart has returned the timing to the normal
setting. See Figure 80.
b. V6 models-The timing pointer should be near 4-6"
ATDC, which indicates that Quikstart has returned
the timing to the normal setting.
11. If the timing does not retard as specified in Step 10,
check the temperature switch, power pack and related
wiring and connectors.
CD6 IGNITION SYSTEM

TROUBLESHOOTING (200 AND 225 HP)
The major components of the CD6 ignition system used

on 200 and 225 hp models include the flywheel,two charge
coils, power coil, six double-wound sensor coils, two
power packs, six ignition coils, shift switch, two tempera-
ture switches and related wiring.
The charge coils and power coil are contained in the
stator assembly and are not serviced separately. The power
coil provides voltage for operation of the SLOW and
QuikStart systems. The six sensor coils (one per cylinder)
are a double-wound design. One coil provides a trigger
signal for ignition and one coil provides a timing signal for
QuikStart operation. The sensor coils are contained in the
timer base assembly and are not serviced separately. The
two power packs are contained in a one-piece assembly
and are not serviced separately.
If the outboard motor is very hard or impossible to start,
begin the troubleshooting procedure at Total Output Test.
If an ignition malfunction is causing an intermittent high-
speed misfire or erratic operation, refer to Indexing Fly-
TROUBLESHOOTING
2. Position the No. 2 piston at TDC by rotating the fly- If the primary wires are properly connected, venfy wire
wheel clockwise. Insert a pencil or similar tool into the No. and pin location on all timer base and power pack connec-
2 spark plug hole while rotating the flywheel to ensure the tors. See wiring diagrams at end of manual. If wire and pin
piston is at TDC. location are correct, replace the power pack.
3. With the No. 2 piston at TDC, place a mark on the
flywheel directly across from the timing pointer. Label the
mark No. 2. Total Output Test
NOTE
5 . Reinstall the spark plugs and connect the plug leads. acceptable spark is noted at each spark
CAUTION gine pops or bacwres during starting or
The outboard motor must be supplied with running, the ignition system may be out of
adequate cooling water while running. time. Make sure the orangehlue primary
Place the motor in a test tank or on a boat in ignition wires are connected to the top igni-
the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at tion coils, the orange wires are connected to
high speed while connected to a flushing the center ignition coils and the or-
device. ange/green wires are connected to the bot-
tom ignition coils. Make sure the spark plug
6. Start the motor and run it at the speed at which the leads are properly connected, theflywheel is
problem is evident. properly located on the crankshaft and the
7. Alternately, connect a timing light to each cylinder. The timing and throttle linkage are properly syn-
timing light should indicatethe cylinder number the timing chronized.
light is connected to. For example, if the timing light is
connected to the No. 2 spark plug wire, the No. 2 mark The total output test determines if the ignition system is
should be visible. In addition, the number should only capable of delivering adequate spark to the spark plugs.
appear near the timing pointer. Perform the output test with the spark plugs installed and
8. If a different cylinder number appears, or if the number properly tightened.
jumps around or appears at other than at the timing pointer,
first make sure the primary ignition wires are properly
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the spark plugs. 1
2. Mount a suitable spark tester on the engine and connect
connected. The primary wires must be connected as fol- the spark plug leads to the tester. See Figure 81. Make sure
lows: the spark tester mounting clip is secured to a good clean
a. Orangelblue wires connect to the top ignition coils. engine ground.
b. Orange wires connect to the center ignition coils. 3. Adjust the spark tester spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1mm).
c. Orangelgreen wires connect to the bottom ignition 4. Connect the cutoff clip and lanyard to the emergency
coils. stop switch, if so equipped.
a. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, con-
tinue testing at Running Output Test in this chapter.
b. If no spark is noted at cylinders 1,3 and 5, continue
at Shzft Switch Test in this chapter.
c. If acceptable spark is noted on at least one spark gap,
continue testing at Charge Coil Output Test in this
I
chapter. I
d. If no spark is noted at any spark gap, continue testing

at Stop Circuit Test in this chapter.
Stop Circuit Test

I
lanyard emergency stop switch are connected to the power I
pack through the enginewiring harness. Activating the stop
CHAPTER THREE
circuit shorts the power pack output to ground, which Shift Switch Test
disables the ignition system and stops the engine.
The shift switch momentarily interrupts ignition to cyl-
1. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between
inders 1 , 3 and 5 when th outboard motor is shifted into or
the engine wiring harness and shift switch. See A, Figure
out of gear. This power interruption causes the outboard to
82.
shift easier.
Perform the following test if no spark is noted on cylin-
a. If good spark is now noted at each spark gap, the ders 1, 3 and 5 during the Total Output Test.
problem is in the shift switch circuit. Continue at 1. Install a spark tester as described under Total Output
Shift Switch Test. Test in this chapter. Adjust the spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1
b. If no spark is noted, disconnect the two-pin stop 171111).
circuit connector (B, Figure 82) and repeat Step 2. 2. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between
If good spark is now noted, the problem is in the stop the engine wiring harness and the shift switch. See A,
circuit. Continue at Key Switch Ohmmeter Test. I f Figure 82.
there is still no spark, continue at Charge Coil Out- 3. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
put Test. a. If spark is now noted at cylinders 1,3 and 5, continue
at Step 4.
b. If cylinders 1, 3 and 5 still do not have spark,
Key Switch Ohmmeter Test continue at Charge Coil Output Test.
If the engine will not shut off when the key switch is scale.
turned OFF, test the key switch as outlined in this chapter. 5. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
If the engine will not shut off when the clip is removed and the shift switch end of the connector (A, Figure 82).
from the emergency stop switch, replace the emergency No continuity should be noted. If continuity is present,
stop switch. replace the shift switch and wire harness.
If the engine will not shut off when the key switch is 6. Push down on the shift cable pin to activate the shift
turned OFF and the clip is removed from the emergency switch while observing the meter. Continuity should now
stop switch, check for an open circuit in the blacklyellow, be noted. If not, replace the shift switch and wire harness.
blacklorange and black wires between the power pack and 7. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between
key switch. the engine wiring harness and shift switch. See A, Figure
82. Disconnect the two-pin Amphenol connector between
1. Install the emergency stop switch clip and lanyard.
the power pack and key switch. See B, Figure 82. Discon-
2. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between nect the engine wiring harness connector. See C, Figure
the engine wiring harness and shift switch (A, Figure 82). 82.
3. Disconnect the two-pin Arnphenol connector between 8. Connect the red ohmmeter lead to the blacklyellow wire
the power pack and key switch (B, Figure 82). terminal in the engine wiring harness connector. Connect
4. Connect the black ohmmeter lead to a good engine the black ohmmeter lead to terminal A in the two-pin
ground. Connect the red ohmmeter lead to terminal B Amphenol connector.Note the meter reading, then reverse
(black/yellow wire) in the engine harness two-pin connec- the ohmmeter leads. Note the meter reading.
tor. a. One reading should be infinity and the other should
a. With the key switch in the OFF position, the ohm- be near zero ohm.
meter should indicate continuity. b. If both readings are infmity, or if both are near zero
b. With the key switch in the ON position, the ohmme- ohm, replace the blocking diode or repair or replace
ter should indicate no continuity. If continuity is the engine wiring harness as necessary.
noted, continue at Step 5. 9. With the red ohmmeter lead connected to the blacwyel-
low wire terminal in the engine harness connector (C,
5. Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector (C, Figure 82), connect the black meter lead to terminal B
Figure 82) and note the ohmmeter. (blacklyellow) in the engine harness two-pin connector
a. If no continuity is now present, test the key switch, (Figure 82). The meter should indicate low resistance. If
emergency stop switch and remote control wiring not, repair or replace the engine wiring harness as neces-
harness. sary.
b. If continuity is still present, repair or replace the 10. With the red ohmmeter lead connected to the
engine wiring harness. blacWyellow wire terminal in the engine harness connector
TROUBLESHOOTING 107
(C, Figure 82), connect the black ohmmeter lead to the Charge Coil Output Test
engine harness end of the one-pin shift switch connector.
Note the meter reading, reverse the ohmmeter leads and Perform the following test to ensure that the charge coil
I
note reading. One reading should be infinity and the other is capable of producing
sufficient voltage to charge the I
reading be near zero. If not, Or the capacitor in the power pack and to make sure the charge
I
engine wiring harness as necessary. coil or charge coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak
11. Reconnect all connectors. reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
i
i
1~
CHAPTER THREE
1. Disconnect the fore and aft two-pin Amphenol connec- 3. Connect the ohmmeter between terminals A and B in
tors between the stator and power pack. the rear two-pin connector. Resistance should be 765-935
2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. ohms.
3. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground. 4. If resistance is not as specified in Steps 2 and 3, replace
Alternately connect the remaining test lead to terminals A the stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
and B in the forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure 5. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
83. scale.
4. Crank the engine and note the meter reading at each 6. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
connection. and alternately to each terminal in both two-pin connec-
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted charge coil tors. See Figure 86. Note the meter reading at each con-
or charge coil wire@).Locate and repair the shorted nection.
wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as outlined in
a. No continuity (infinity) should be noted at each
Chapter Seven.
connection.
b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 5.
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 with the PRV connected between
ground and terminal A, then terminal B in the rear two-pin
stator connector.
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted charge coil Stator
or charge coil wire(s). Locate and repair the shorted
wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as outlined in
Chapter Seven.
6. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the voltmeter
forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure 84. Connect
the red test lead to terminal B in the forward two-pin
connector.
8. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the
rear two-pin stator connector. Connect the red test lead to
terminal B in the rear connector.
a. If output at both connectors is 130 volts or more,
reconnect the two-pin connectors and continue at
Sensor Coil Output Test.
b. I f output is less than 130 volts at either connector,
inspect the condition of the charge coil wiring and
connectors. If the wiring and connectors are in ac-
ceptable condition, continue at Charge Coil Resis-
Stator
tance Test.
Charge Coil Resistance Test Peak reading

voltmeter
indicateincreased resistance and may result in unnecessary
parts replacement without solving the basic problem.
2. Connect the ohmmeter between terminals A and B in
the forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure 85. Re-
sistance should be 765-935 ohms.
TROUBLESHOOTING 109
b. Continuity between any terminal and ground indi- to determine if the sensor coil is capable of producing a
cates a shorted charge coil or charge coil wire(s). sufficient voltage signal, and to ensure the sensor coil or
Locate and repair the shorted wire(s) or replace the sensor coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak reading
stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven. voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
7. Reconnect the stator-to-power pack two-pin connectors. 1. Disconnect both four-pin Amphenol connectors be-
Sensor Coil Output Test 2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 5 (SEN and
The sensor coil provides a voltage signal to the power 3. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground.
pack which triggers power pack output to be directed to Alternately connect the remaining test lead to each timer
the correct ignition coil primary circuit. Perform this test base terminal. See Figure 87.
63 Stator
Stator Cables from timer base
T -
110 CHAPTER THREE
4. Crank the engine while observing the meter at each diode as shown in Figure 90, then reverse
connection. the leads. I f the first connection indicated
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted sensor coil very low resistance (zero ohm), and the sec-
or sensor coil wire(s). Locate and repair the shorted ond connection indicated very high resis-
wire(s) or replace the timer base assembly as out- tance (infinity), the ohmmeter red lead is
lined in Chapter Seven. positive (+). I f the opposite result is noted,
reverse the ohmmeter leads so the red lead is
b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 5. positive (+).
5. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal D in the
port timer base connector. Alternately connect the red test 1. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
lead to terminals A, B and C in the port timer base connec-
tor, then terminals A, B and C in the starboard timer base 2. Connect the red (positive) ohmmeter lead to terminal D
connector. See Figure 88. in the port timer base connector. See Figure 91.
connection. Sensor coil output should be 0.2 volt or more.
a. If output is 0.2 volt at each connection, continue at
Step 7. @
b. If output is less than 0.2 volt, inspect the timer base
wiring and connections and repair as necessary. If Cables from timer base
the wiring and connections are in acceptable condi-
tion, continue at Sensor Coil Resistance Test.
7. Connect the D terminal in the port timer base terminal
to the D terminal in the port engine harness connectorusing
a jumper lead. See Figure 89.
8. Connect the D terminal in the starboard timer base
terminal to the D terminal in the starboard engine harness
connector using a jumper lead. See Figure 89.
9. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine
ground. Alternately, connect the red test lead to terminals
A, B and C in the starboard timer base connector, then
terminals A, B and C in the port timer base terminal. Crank
the engine while observing the meter at each connection.
a. If output is 0.8 volt or more, continue at Power Pack
Output Test.
continue at Sensor Coil Resistance Test.
Cables from timer base
NOTE
Ohmmeter polarity must be determined be- to D terminals connector to D terminals
fore proceeding with this test. To do so, cali- cables
brate the meter on the R x 100 or low-ohm
scale. Connect the leads to a known-good
TROUBLESHOOTING
3. Alternately, connect the black ohmmeter lead to termi-

nals A, B and C in the port timer base terminal, then
terminals A, B and C in the starboard timer base terminal.
Note the meter reading at each connection.
NOTE
The sensor coil resistance specifications in
Step 4 and Step 6 are based on the use of a
Stevens Model AT-1 01, Merc-0-Tronic
Model M-700, or a Fluke 29 Series I1 ohm-
metel: Resistance measured with an ohmme-
ter from another manufacturer may be
different. Internal timer base components
may cause sensor coil resistance readings to
vary depending on individual ohmmeter im-
pedance. Resistance readings may be higher
or lower; but they should be consistent.
4. If using a Stevens Model AT- 101 ohmmeter, sensor coil

resistance should be 330-390 ohms. If using a Merc-O-
Tronic Model M-700 ohmmeter, sensor coil resistance
should be 870-1070 ohms. If using a Fluke 29 Series I1
ohmmeter, sensor coil resistance should be 875-1075 ohms
(Fluke meter must be set on 40 ohms scale). If resistance
is not as specified, replace the timer base assembly as
outlined in Chapter Seven.
5. Next, connect the red ohmmeter lead to terminal D in
69 the port timer base connector. Connect the black ohmmeter

lead to terminal D in the starboard timer base connector.
See Figure 91.
6. Resistance should be 200-260 ohms. If not, replace the
timer base assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
Cables from timer base 7. Next, connect the ohmmeter between a good engine
ground and alternately to each sensor coil terminal in the
port and starboard timer base connector.
8. No continuity should be noted at each connection. If
continuity is noted, locate and repair the grounded timer
base wire(s) or replace the timer base assembly as neces-
sary. See Chapter Seven.
9. If testing is complete, reconnect the timer base termi-
nals.
WARNING
To prevent accidental starting, remove the
spark plug leads from the spark plugs. Se-
A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens load adapt-

er (part No. PL-88) are necessary to test power pack output.
1. Disconnect the primary wires from each ignition coil.
CHAPTER THREE
2. Connect the primary wire from the No. 1 coil to the red 6. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 with the red PRV test lead
lead of the PL-88 load adapter. Connect the black load connected to the terminal extender on each remaining
adapter lead to a good engine ground. See Figure 92. ignition coil.
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. a. If output is less than 130 volts on one or more
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the red load adapter ignition coils, test the charge coil as described in this
lead. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine chapter. If the charge coil is in acceptable condition,
ground. replace the power pack.
b. If no output (zero volt) is noted at one or more
pack output should be 100 volts or more.
ignition coil, test the sensor coils as described in this
6. Repeat Steps 2-5 on the primary wire to each remaining
chapter. If the sensor coils are in acceptable condi-
ignition coil. Output should be 100 volts or more at each
tion, replace the power pack.
primary wire.
a. If output is 100 volts or more at each primary wire, 7. If testing is complete, remove the terminal extenders
test the ignition coil resistance as outlined in this and reconnect the primary wires to their respective ignition
chapter. coils. Make sure the orangelblue wires are attached to the
b. If no output is noted at one primary wire, replace the top coils, the orange wires are attached to the center coils
power pack. See Chapter Seven. and the orangelgreen wires are attached to the bottom coils.
7. If testing is complete, remove the PL-88 load adapter
and reconnect the primary wires to the ignition coils.
Ignition Coil Resistance Test
Running Output Test Because resistance generally increases with tempera-

A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens Terminal
temperature (70" F [21° C]). Resistance tests on hot com-
ponents will indicate increased resistance and may result
in unnecessary parts replacement without solving the basic
forming the test.
@ Ground
CAUTION
adequate cooling water while running. In-
device.
mary wires are connected to the top ignition coils, the
orange primary wires are attached to the center ignition
coils and the orangelgreen primary wires are attached to
the bottom ignition coils.
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the terminal extender
attached to the No. 1 ignition coil. Connect the black test
malfunction is evident while observing the meter. Running
TROUBLESHOOTING
problem. Ignition coil resistance can be checked without limit engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm if engine
coil removal. temperature exceeds 203" F (95" C). To deactivate SLOW,
1. Remove the primary wires and the spark plug wires throttle back to idle, allow the engine to cool to 162"F (72"
from the ignition coil assembly. C), then stop the engine.
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 or low-ohm scale. A blocking diode located in the engine wiring harness is
3. To check primary winding resistance, connect the black used to isolate the SLOW warning system from the other
ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground or to the coil warning systems. Should the blocking diode become
ground tab if the coil is removed. Connect the red ohmme- shorted, the SLOW function will remain activated regard-
ter lead to the coil primary terminal. less of engine temperature.
4. Primary resistance should be 0.05-0.15 ohm. The SLOW function is activated by a signal from the
5. To check secondary winding resistance, calibrate the port or starboard engine temperature switch. The tempera-
ohmmeter on the R x 100 or high-ohm scale. Connect the ture switches are located in the top of each cylinder head.
red ohmmeter lead to the coil primary terminal and the The following conditions will cause the SLOW function
black lead to the spark plug terminal. to remain activated:
6. Secondary resistance should be 225-325 ohms. a. Engine overheated.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 on each remaining coil. b. Engine temperature switch or switch wire shorted to
8. Replace the coil if resistance is not as specified. ground.
9. To check the spark plug leads, calibrate the ohmmeter c. Blocking diode closed or shorted to ground.
on R x 1 or low-ohm scale. Connect the ohmmeter to each d. Defective power pack.
end of the lead and note the meter. The resistance should The following conditions will prevent the SLOW func-
be nearly zero ohm. tion from operating:
a. Engine temperature switch or switch wire open.
b. Defective power pack.
SLOW Operation and Testing c. Defective power coil.
All models are equipped with the speed limiting over- If the SLOW function is inoperative, test the temperature
heat warning (SLOW) system. The system is designed to switches and SLOW system as follows.
1. Install the outboard motor in a test tank with the correct
test wheel installed. See Table 16.
2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to the manu-
3. Disconnect the port and starboard tanlgreen tempera-
ture switch wires from the engine harness tan wires.
Stator 4. Start the engine and run at approximately 3500 rpm.
5. Connect the engine harness end of the port tan wire to
a clean engine ground and note the engine speed.
6. Throttle back to idle speed, then stop the engine.
7. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 using the starboard tan wire.
a. If engine speed reduces to approximately 2500 rpm
switch as described in this chapter.
b. If engine speed reduces when one temperature
as necessary.
c. If engine speed does not reduce as specified when
either tan wire is grounded, continue at Step 8.
orangehlack power coil wires from the terminal block.
9. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
scale.
and alternately to each power coil wire (orange and or-
angehlack). See Figure 93.
CHAPTER THREE
11. No continuity should be present between ground and If the SLOW function is activated by the no oil, low oil
either power coil wire. or fuel vacuum warning signal, test the engine harness
a. If continuity is noted, either the power coil or power blocking diode as follows.
coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and repair
the shorted wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as
necessary. 1995 Models
b. If no continuity is noted, continue at Step 12.
13. Connect the ohmmeter between the orange and or-
angehlack power coil wires. See Figure 94. 2. Disconnect the port and starboard temperature switches
a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms, from the engine harness (Figure 95, typical).
replace the power pack. 3. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
b. If power coil resistance is not within 86-106 ohms, scale.
replace the stator assembly. See Chapter Seven.
CAUTION switch tan wire (engine harness side) and the tan wire
Do not start the engine with the orange and terminal in the red engine harness connector. See Figure
orangehlackpower coil wires disconnected. 96.
14. If testing is complete, reconnect the orange and or-
angehlack power coil wires to the terminal block. Rein- 6. A high reading (no continuity) in one direction and a
stall the power pack. low reading (continuity) in the other should be noted. If
Blocking Diode Test open and must be replaced.

harness.
Stator
Ohmmeter
TROUBLESHOOTING
1996-2002 Models I
scale.
Engine harness connector
Tan or
tanlblue wire
(temperature
switch)

~
starting system. The QuikStart circuit automatically ad-
vances the ignition timing when the engine temperature is
less than 93-99" F (34-37" C) to improve engine wann-up.
The ignition timing remains advanced until engine tem-
perature exceeds approximately 93-99" F (34-37" C). In
addition, QuikStart also advances the ignition timing for
approximately 5 seconds each time the engine is started,
regardless of engine temperature. To prevent power head
damage due to detonation, the power pack disables
QuikStart at engine speeds exceeding approximately 1100
rpm, regardless of engine temperature.
ceed as follows:
(Table 16).
running this test.
NOTE
in Chapter Five.
3. Place temporary marks on the flywheel indicating TDC

for all cylinders.
4. Disconnect the whitelblack temperature switch wire
between the power pack and the port temperature switch.
5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the power head ac-
cording to its manufacturer's instructions.
CHAPTER THREE
6. Attach a timing light to the No. 1 cylinder according to b. If the meter indicates high resistance in Step 3,
its manufacturer's instructions. continue at Step 4.
7. Start the engine and shift into forward gear. Idle speed 4. Loosen the power pack and disconnect the orange and
must not exceed 900 rpm in gear during this test. Adjust orangeblack power coil wires from the terminal block.
idle speed if necessary. 5. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
8. Observe the flywheel with the timing light. The No. 1 scale.
cylinder TDC mark should be near the timing pointer, 6. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
indicating the QuikStart system is functioning. and alternately to the power coil orange and orangeblack
9. While observing the timing marks, momentarily con- wires. See Figure 98. No continuity should be present
nect the whiteblack temperature switch wire. The timing between either power coil wire and ground. If continuity
mark should shift to the left approximately 1in. (25.4 rnm) is noted, repair the shorted power coil wire or replace the
when the wire is connected, indicating that the QuikStart stator assembly as necessary. See Chapter Seven.
system has returned the timing to the normal setting. 7. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
8. Connect the ohmmeter between the power coil orange
NOTE and orangeblack wires. See Figure 94.
The engine must be stopped before testing
a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms,
each remaining cylinder to reset the Quik-
Start circuit. replace the power pack.
b. If power coil resistance is not within 86-106 ohms,
10. Stop the engine. Repeat Steps 6-9 for each remaining replace the stator assembly.
cylinder. 9. If testing is complete, reconnect all circuits discon-
a. If one or more cylinders do not react as specified nected during this procedure.
(Step 9), replace the timer base assembly. See Chap-
ter Seven.
b. If no cylinders react as specified (Step 9), refer to QuikStart always on
QuikStart inoperative in this chapter. The following conditions can cause the QuikStart circuit
c. If all cylinders react as specified (Step 9), the Quik- to remain on constantly:
Start circuit is functioning properly.
QuikStart inoperative
The following conditions will cause the QuikStart cir-

cuit to be inoperative:
a. Defective power coil.
b. Defective power pack.
c. Defective timer base (sensor coil).
d. An open circuit in the yellowlred wire between the
power pack and starter solenoid or key switch.
Troubleshoot the QuikStart circuit as follows:
1. Disconnect the whitehlack wire between the port tem-
perature switch and power pack (Figure 97, typical).
scale.
NOTE
Engine temperature must be less than 89" F
(32" C) in Step 3.
3. Connect the ohmmeter between the temperature switch
whiteblack wire and a good engine ground. The ohmmeter
should indicate no continuity with engine temperature less
than 89"F (32" C).
a. If the meter indicates continuity in Step 3, test the
temperature switch as described in this chapter.
TROUBLESHOOTING
a. Engine overcooling (not warming up to operating speed misfire or erratic operation, refer to Indexing Fly-
temperature). wheel and Running Output Test. Unless specified other-
b. Defective temperature switch. wise, perform the following ignition system tests in the
c. Defective power pack. sequence given. Skipping tests or jumping around the
d. Defective starter solenoid or key switch. troubleshooting
- procedure
- can result in misleading results
If the QuikStart system remains on constantly when the and unnecessary parts replacement. Test the entire ignition
engine is operated above 1100 rpm, the power pack is system-more than one component may be defective.
defective and must be replaced. If the QuikStart system
remains on constantly regardless of time on and engine
temperature, when the engine is operated below 1100rpm, Indexing Flywheel
continue as follows: If the outboard motor runs erratically, or if a high-speed
1. Check for a defective starter solenoid or key switch, misfire is noted, the power pack may be defective. Internal
which may cause a small voltage to bleed into the yel- power pack malfunctions can cause erratic ignition system
lowlred wire leading to the power pack. This small amount
operation. Perform the following procedure to ensure the
of voltage can activate the QuikStart circuit.
power pack is firing at the correct time.
2. Check for a defective or damaged port side engine
1. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Check for an open circuit or loose or corroded connec- 2. Position the No. 2 piston at TDC by rotating the fly-
tions in the whiteblack power pack wire. wheel clockwise. Insert a pencil or similar tool into the No.
4. Check the engine for an overcooling condition as de- 2 spark plug hole while rotating the flywheel to ensure the
piston is at TDC.
scribed in this chapter.
5. If no other problems are noted in Steps 1-4, replace the 3. With the No. 2 piston at TDC, place a mark on the
power pack. See Chapter Seven. flywheel directly across from the timing pointer. Label the
mark No. 2.
RPM Limiting Power Pack 5. Reinstall the spark plugs and connect the plug leads.
Power packs marked CDL are equipped with an internal CAUTION
rpm limiting device designed to prevent power head dam- The outboard motor must be supplied with
age from overspeeding.On models so equipped, the power adequate cooling water while running.
pack intenupts ignition if engine speed exceeds 6700 rpm. Place the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
Be certain the correct power pack is used if replacement is the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at
necessary. high speed while connected to a flushing
device.
CDS IGNITION SYSTEM 6. Start the motor and run it at the speed at which the
TROUBLESHOOTING problem is evident.
(250 AND 300 HP VS MODELS) 7. Alternately, connect a timing light to each cylinder. The
timing light should indicatethe number of the cylinder that
The major components of the CD8 ignition system is connected to the timing light. For example, if the timing
include the flywheel, two charge coils, power coil, eight light is connected to the No. 2 spark plug wire, the No. 2
double-wound sensor coils, power pack, eight ignition mark should be visible. In addition, the number should
coils, shift switch, two temperature switches and related only appear near the timing pointer.
wiring. 8. If a different cylinder number appears, or if the number
The charge coil and power coil are contained inside the jumps around or appears at other than the timing pointer,
stator assembly and are not serviced separately. The power first make sure the primary ignition wires are properly
coil is used to provide voltage for QuikStart and SLOW connected. The primary wires must be connected as fol-
operation. The eight sensor coils are a double-wound de- lows:
sign and are contained in an one-piece timer base assembly. a. No. 1 coil is connected to the orangeblue wire.
Eight sensor coils are used for QuikStart operation and b. No. 2 coil is connected to the orangelpurple wire.
eight are used for ignition. c. No. 3 coil is connected to the orangelgreen wire.
If the outboard motor is very hard or impossible to start, d. No. 4 coil is connected to the orange/pink wire.
begin the troubleshooting procedure at Total Output Test. e. No. 5 coil is connected to the orange/blue/white
I f an ignition malfunction is causing an intermittent high- wire.
CHAPTER THREE
f. No. 6 coil is connected to the orangelpurplelwhite e. If no spark is noted at any one spark gap, continue
wire. at Sensor Coil Output Test.
g. No. 7 coil is connected to the orangelgreenlwhite f. If no spark is noted at cylinders 5-8, continue at Shift
wire. Switch Test.
h. No. 8 coil is connected to the orangelpinklwhite g. If no spark is noted at all spark gaps, continue at Stop
wire. Circuit Test.
If the primary wires are properly connected, venfy wire
and pin location on all timer base and power pack connec-
Stop Circuit Test
tors. See wiring diagrams at end of manual. If wire and pin
location are correct, replace the power pack. The following test eliminates the stop circuit as a poten-
Total Output Test lanyard emergency stop switch are connected to the power
pack through the engine wiring harness. Activating the stop
The total output test will determineif the ignition system circuit shorts the power pack output to ground, which
is capable of delivering adequate spark to the spark plugs. disables the ignition system and stops the engine.
Perform the output test with the spark plugs installed and 1. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between
properly tightened. the engine wiring harness and shift switch. See B, Figure
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the spark plugs. 99.
2. Mount a suitable spark tester on the engine and connect 2. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester.
the spark plug leads to the tester. See Figure 81. Make sure a. If good spark is now noted at each spark gap, the
the spark tester mounting clip is secured to a good clean problem is in the shift switch circuit. Continue at
engine ground. ShiJi-Switch Test.
3. Adjust the spark tester spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1mm). b. If no spark is noted, disconnect the two-pin stop
4. Connect the cutoff clip and lanyard to the emergency circuit connector (A, Figure 99) and repeat Step 2.
stop switch, if so equipped. If good spark is now noted, the problem is in the stop
circuit. Continue at Key Switch Ohmmeter Test. I f
NOTE there is still no spark, continue at Charge Coil Out-
If acceptable spark is noted at each spark put Test.
gine pops or backjires during starting or
running, the ignition system may be out of Key Switch Ohmmeter Test
time. Be sure the primary ignition wires are
properly connected. See Indexing the Fly- If the engine will not shut off when the key switch is
wheel. Make sure the spark plug leads are turned OFF, test the key switch as outlined in this chapter.
routed correctly. Make sure the timing and If the engine will not shut off when the clip is removed
throttle linkage are properly synchronized. from the emergency stop switch, replace the emergency
5. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester. stop switch.
a. If acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, but If the engine will not shut off when the key switch is
the engine will not stop after starting, continue at turned OFF and the clip is removed from the emergency
Stop Circuit Test. stop switch, check for an open circuit in the black/yellow,
b. I f acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, but blacklorange and black wires between the power pack and
the outboard has a high-speed misfire, continue at key switch.
Power Pack Output Test and Running Output Test. 1. Install the emergency stop switch clip and lanyard.
c. I f acceptable spark is noted at each spark gap, but 2. D i s c o ~ e cthe
t one-pin Amphenol connector between
the outboard does not start, first venfy that the the engine wiring harness and shift switch (B, Figure 99).
QuikStart system is functioning as outlined under 3. Disconnect the two-pin Amphenol connector between
QuikStart Operation and Testing. I f the QuikStart the power pack and key switch (A, Figure 99).
system is functioning properly, then make sure the 4. Connect the black ohmmeter lead to a good engine
timing pointer is properly located as outlined in ground. Connect the red ohmmeter lead to terminal B
Chapter Five, then check charge coil output as out- (black/yellow wire) in the engine harness two-pin connec-
lined in this chapter. tor.
d. If good spark is noted on at least one spark gap, a. With the key switch in the OFF position, the ohm-
continue at Charge Coil Output Test. meter should indicate continuity.
TROUBLESHOOTING 119
b. With the key switch in the ON position, the ohmme- Shift Switch Test I
ter should indicate no continuity. If continuity is

noted, continue at Step 5. The shift switch momentarily interrupts ignition to cyl-
inders 5-8 when the outboard motor is shifted into or out
5. Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector (C, of gear. This power interruption causes the outboard to
Figure 99) and note the ohmmeter. shift easier.
a. If no continuity is now present, test the key switch, Perform the following test if no spark is noted on cylin-
emergency stop switch and remote control wiring ders 5-8 during the Total Output Test.
harness. 1. Install a spark tester as described under Total output
b. If continuity is still present, repair or replace the Test in this chapter. Adjust the spark gap to 7/16 in. (11.1
engine wiring harness. 111111).
CHAPTER THREE
2. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between Charge Coil Output Test
the engine wiring harness and the shift switch. See B,
Figure 99. Perform the following test to ensure the charge coil is
3. Crank the engine while observing the spark tester. capable of producing sufficient voltage to charge the ca-
pacitor properly in the power pack and to make sure the
a. If spark is now noted at cylinders 5-8, continue at charge coil or charge coil wiring is not shorted to ground.
Step 4. A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform
b. If cylinders 5-8 still do not have spark, continue at this test.
Charge Coil Output Test. 1. Disconnect the fore and aft two-pin Arnphenol connec-
4. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm tors between the stator and power pack.
scale.
and the shift switch end of the connector (B, Figure 99).
No continuity should be noted. If continuity is present,
Stator
replace the shift switch and wire harness.
6. Push down on the shift cable pin to activate the shift
switch while observing the meter. Continuity should now
be noted. If not, replace the shift switch and wire harness.
7. Disconnect the one-pin Amphenol connector between Peak reading
the engine wiring harness and shift switch. See B, Figure voltmeter
99. Disconnect the two-pin Amphenol connector between
the power pack and key switch. See A, Figure 99. Discon-
nect the engine wiring harness connector. See C, Figure
99.
8. Connect the red ohmmeter lead to the blacWyellow wire
terminal in the engine wiring harness connector. Connect
the black ohmmeter lead to terminal A in the two-pin
Arnphenol connector. Note the meter reading, then reverse
the ohmmeter leads. Note the meter reading.
a. One reading should be infmity and the other should
be near zero ohm.
b. If both readings are infinity, or if both are near zero
ohm, replace the blocking diode or repair or replace
the engine wiring harness as necessary.
9. With the red ohmmeter lead connected to the blacWye1- @
low wire terminal in the engine harness connector (C,
Figure 99), connect the black meter lead to terminal B Stator
(blacWyellow) in the engine harness two-pin connector
(Figure 99). The meter should indicate low resistance. If
not, repair or replace the engine wiring harness as neces-
sary.
10. With the red ohmmeter lead connected to the
blacWyellow wire terminal in the engineharness connector
(C, Figure 99), connect the black ohmmeter lead to the
engine harness end of the one-pin shift switch connector.
Note the meter reading, reverse the ohmmeter leads and
note reading. One reading should be infinity and the other
reading should be near zero. If not, repair or replace the
engine wiring harness as necessary.
11. Reconnect all connectors.
TROUBLESHOOTING
2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. 9. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Charge
3. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground. coil output should be 130 volts or more.
Alternately connect the remaining test lead to terminals A a. If output at both connectors is 130 volts or more,
and B in the forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure reconnect the two-pin connectors and continue at
100. Sensor Coil Output Test.
4. Crank the engine and note the meter reading at each b. If output is less than 130 volts at either connector,
connection. inspect the condition of the charge coil wiring and
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted charge coil connectors. If the wiring and connectors are in ac-
or charge coil wire(s). Locate and repair the shorted ceptable condition, continue at Charge Coil Resis-
wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as outlined in tance Test.
Chapter Seven.
b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 5. Charge Coil Resistance Test
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 with the PRV connected between
ground and terminal A, then terminal B in the rear two-pin Because resistance generally increases with tempera-
stator connector. ture, perform resistance tests with the engine cold (room
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted charge coil temperature). Resistance tests on hot components will
or charge coil wire(s). Locate and repair the shorted indicate increased resistance and may result in unnecessary
wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as outlined in parts replacement without solving the basic problem.
Chapter Seven. 1. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
b. If no voltage is noted, continue at Step 6. 2. Connect the ohmmeter between terminals A and B in
6. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the the forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure 102.
forward two-pin stator connector. See Figure 101. Con- Resistance should be 765-935 ohms.
nect the red test lead to terminal B in the forward two-pin 3. Connect the ohmmeter between terminals A and B in
connector. the rear two-pin connector. Resistance should be 765-935
7. Crank the engine while observing the meter. Charge ohms.
coil output should be 130 volts or more. 4. If resistance is not as specified in Step 2 and Step 3,
8. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal A in the replace the stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
rear two-pin stator connector. Connect the red test lead to 5. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
terminal B in the rear connector. scale.
Stator
Ohmmeter
122 CHAPTER THREE

and alternately to each terminal in both two-pin connec-
tors. See Figure 103. Note the meter reading at each
connection. Stator
a. No continuity (infinity) should be noted at each
connection.
b. Continuity between any terminal and ground indi-
cates a shorted charge coil or charge coil wire(s).
Locate and repair the shorted wire(s) or replace the
stator assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven. Ohmmeter
7. Reconnect the stator-to-power pack two-pin connec-
tors.
Sensor Coil Output Test
The sensor coil provides a voltage signal to the power

pack which triggers power pack output to be directed to
the correct ignition coil primary circuit. Perform this test
to determine if the sensor coil is capable of producing a
sufficient voltage signal, and to ensure the sensor coil or
sensor coil wiring is not shorted to ground. A peak reading
voltmeter (PRV) is necessary to perform this test.
1. Disconnect both five-pin Amphenol connectors be- *

2. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 5 (SEN and
3. Connect one PRV test lead to a good engine ground.
Alternately connect the remaining test lead to each timer
base terminal. See Figure 104.
4. Crank the engine while observing the meter at each Timer base
connection.
a. Any voltage reading indicates a shorted sensor coil
or sensor coil wire(s). Locate and repair the shorted Starboard
wire(s) or replace the timer base assembly as out-
lined in Chapter Seven.
5. Connect the black PRV test lead to terminal E in the
port timer base connector. Alternately connect the red test
lead to terminals A, B, C and D in the port timer base
connector, then terminals A, B, C and D in the starboard
timer base connector. See Figure 105.
connection. Sensor coil output should be 0.2 volt or more.
a. If output is 0.2 volt at each connection, continue at
Step 7.
wiring and connections and repair as necessary. If
the wiring and connections are in acceptable condi-
tion, continue at Sensor Coil Resistance Test.
7. Connect the E tenninal in the port timer base tenninal
to the E terminal in the port engine harness connectorusing
a jumper lead. See Figure 106.
TROUBLESHOOTING 123
8. Connect the E terminal in the starboard timer base

terminal to the E terminal in the starboard engine harness
connector using a jumper lead. See Figure 106.
Timer base 9. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine
ground. Alternately, connect the red test lead to terminals
A, B, C and D in the starboard timer base connector, then
terminals A, B, C and D in the port timer base terminal.
Crank the engine while observing the meter at each con-
nection.
a. If output is 0.8 volt or more, continue at Power Pack
Output Test.
Peak reading voltmeter
continue at Sensor Coil Resistance Test.

indicateincreased resistance and may result in unnecessary
NOTE
Ohmmeter polarity must be determined be-
63 Timer base
fore proceeding with this test. To do so, cali-
brate the meter on the R x 100 or low-ohm
scale. Connect the leads to a known-good
diode as shown in Figure 107, then reverse
124 CHAPTER THREE
the leads. If the first connection indicated

very low resistance (zeroohm), and the sec-
ond connection indicated Qeryhigh resis-
@
tance (infinity), the ohmmeter red lead is
positive (+). If the opposite result is noted,
Timer base
reverse the ohmmeter leads so the red lead is
positive (+).

2. Connect the red (positive) ohmmeter lead to terminal E
in the port timer base connector. See Figure 108.
3. Alternately, connect the black ohmmeter lead to termi-
nals A, B, C and D in the port timer base terminal, then
terminals A, B, C and D in the starboard timer base
terminal. Note the meter reading at each connection.
NOTE
The sensor coil resistance specijications in
Step 4 and Step 6 are based on the use of a
Stevens Model AT-101, Merc-0-Tronic
Model M-700, or a Fluke 29 Series I1 ohm-
metel:Resistance measured with an ohmme-
ter by another manufacturer may be
different. Internal timer base components
may cause sensor coil resistance readings to
vary depending on individual ohmmeter im-
pedance. Resistance readings may be higher
or lower; but they should be consistent.
4. If using a Stevens Model AT-101 ohmmeter, sensor coil

resistance should be 330-390 ohms. If using a Merc-O-
Tronic Model M-700 ohmmeter, sensor coil resistance
Timer base
should be 870-1070 ohms. If using a Fluke 29 Series II
ohmmeter, sensor coil resistance should be 875-1075ohms
(Fluke meter must be set on 40 ohms scale). If resistance
is not as specified, replace the timer base assembly as
outlined in Chapter Seven.
5. Next, connect the red ohmmeter lead to terminal E in
the port timer base connector. Connect the black ohmmeter
lead to terminal E in the starboard timer base connector.
See Figure 109.
6. Resistance should be 140-180ohms. If not, replace the
timer base assembly as outlined in Chapter Seven.
7. Next, connect the ohmmeter between a good engine
ground and alternately to each sensor coil terminal in the
port and starboard timer base connector.
8. No continuity should be noted at each connection. If
continuity is noted, locate and repair the grounded timer
base wire(s) or replace the timer base assembly as neces-
sary. See Chapter Seven.
9. If testing is complete, reconnect the timer base termi-
nals.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Power Pack Output Test b. If no output is noted at one primary wire, replace th#
power pack. See Chapter Seven.
WARNING 7. If testing is complete, remove the PL-88 load adapte
To prevent accidental starting, remove the and reconnect the primary wires to the ignition coils.
spark ~ 2 u gleads from the spark plugs. Se- sure the primary ignition wires are connected to the cone
ignitioncoils. see Indexing Flywheel.
A peak reading voltmeter (F'RV) and Stevens load adapt-

Running Output Test
er (part No. PL-88) are necessary to test power packoutput.
1. Disconnect the primary wires from each ignition coil. A peak reading voltmeter (PRV) and Stevens Terrninq
2. Connect the primary wire from the No. 1coil to the red Extenders (part No. TS-77) are necessary to perform the
;
lead of the PL-88 load adapter. Connect the black load running output test. Running the outboard under load
adapter lead to a good engine ground. See Figure 110. often necessary to locate the cause of an intermitte t
3. Set the PRV selector switches to POS and 500. malfunction or high-speed misfire, especially if good spar
4. Connect the red PRV test lead to the red load adapter is noted during the Total Output Test.Remove the propeller
lead. Connect the black PRV test lead to a good engine and install the correct test wheel (Table 16) prior to ped-
ground.
forming the test. i
I
pack output should be 100 volts or more. CAUTION
6. Repeat Steps 2-5 on the primary wire to each remaining The outboard motor must be supplied with
ignition coil. Output should be 100 volts or more at each adequate cooling water while running. In-
primary wire. stall the motor in a test tank or on a boat in
a. If output is 100 volts or more at each primary wire, the watel: Do not attempt to run the motor at
test ignition coil resistance as outlined in this chap- high speed while connected to a flushing
ter. device.
1. Remove the primary wires from each ignition coil. 1

2. Install a Stevens Terminal Extender (part No.
@ on each coil primary terminal. Connect the
Ground to the terminal extenders.
4. Connect the red PRV test lead
attached to the No. 1 ignition coil.
malfunction is evident while observing the meter. Runni g
6. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 with the red PRV test lead
connected to the terminal extender on each remaini~g
P
ignition coil. I
a. If output is less than 130
ignition coils, test charge the coil
chapter. If the charge coil is in acceptable
b. If no output (zero volt) is noted at
ignition coil, test the sensor coils as
chapter. If the sensor coils are in
tion, replace the power pack.
7. If testing is complete, remove the terminal extend rs C
and reconnect the primary wires to their respective ignitFn
coils. Make sure the primary ignition wires are connec ed
to the correct ignition coils. See Indexing Flywheel. 1
CHAPTER THREE
Ignition Coil Resistance Test end of the lead and note the meter. The resistance should
be nearly zero ohm.
temperature (70' F [21° C]). Resistance tests on hot com- SLOW Operation and Testing
ponents will indicate increased resistance and may result All models are equipped with the speed limiting over-
in unnecessary parts replacement without solving the basic heat waming (SLOW) system. The system is designed to
problem. Ignition coil resistance can be checked without limit engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm if engine
coil removal. temperature exceeds 203" F (95" C). To deactivate SLOW,
1. Remove the primary wires and the spark plug wires throttle back to idle, allow the engine to cool to 162"F (72"
from the ignition coil assembly. C), then stop the engine.
2. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 or low-ohm scale. A blocking diode located in the engine wiring harness is
3. To check primary winding resistance, connect the black used to isolate the SLOW warning system from the other
ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground or to the coil warning systems. Should the blocking diode become
ground tab if the coil is removed. Connect the red ohrnrne- shorted, the SLOW function will remain activated regard-
ter lead to the coil primary terminal. less of engine temperature.
4. Primary resistance should be 0.05-0.15 ohm. The SLOW function is activated by a signal from the
5. To check secondary winding resistance, calibrate the port or starboard engine temperature switch. The tempera-
ohmmeter on the R x 100 or high-ohm scale. Connect the ture switches are located in the top of each cylinder head.
red ohmmeter lead to the coil primary terminal and the The following conditions will cause the SLOW function
black lead to the spark plug terminal. to remain activated:
6. Secondary resistance should be 225-325 ohms. a. Engine overheated.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 on each remaining coil. b. Engine temperature switch or switch wire shorted to
8. Replace the coil if resistance is not as specified. ground.
9. To check the spark plug leads, calibrate the ohmmeter c. Blocking diode closed or shorted to ground.
on R x 1or low-ohm scale. Connect the ohmmeter to each d. Defective power pack.
@
Stator
Stator
TROUBLESHOOTING
The following conditions will prevent the SLOW func- the engine wiring harness and connectors and repair
I
tion from operating: as necessary.
a. Engine temperature switch or switch wire open. c. If engine speed does not reduce as specified when
b. Defective power pack. either tan wire is grounded, continue at Step 8.
c. Defective power coil.
orangehlack power coil wires from the terminal block.
If the SLOW function is inoperative, test the temperature
9. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm
switches and SLOW system as follows. scale.
1. Install the outboard motor in a test tank with the correct 10. Connect the ohmmeter between a good engine ground
test wheel installed. See Table 16. and alternately to each power coil wire (orange and or-
2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu- angehlack). See Figure 111.
facturer's instructions. 11. No continuity should be present between ground and
3. Disconnect the port and starboard tanlgreen tempera- either power coil wire. l
ture switch wires from the engine harness tan wires. a. If continuity is noted, either the power coil or power
4. Start the engine and let it run at approximately 3500 coil wire(s) is shorted to ground. Locate and repair
rpm. the shorted wire(s) or replace the stator assembly as
5. Connect the engine harness end of the port tan wire to necessary.
I
a clean engine ground and note the engine speed. b. If no continuity is noted, continue at Step 12.
6. Throttle back to idle speed, then stop the engine. 12. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale.
7. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 using the starboard tan wire. 13. Connect the ohmmeter between the orange and or-
angehlack power coil wires. See Figure 112.
a. If engine speed reduces to approximately 2500 rpm
a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms,
switch as described in this chapter. replace the power pack. I
b. If engine speed reduces when one temperature replace the stator assembly. See Chapter Seven.
CAUTION 1
Do not start the engine with the orange and

orangehlackpower coil wires disconnected.
I
14. If testing is complete, reconnect the orange and or-
angehlack power coil wires to the terminal block. ~ e d -
stall the power pack.
Blocking Diode Test

harness.
If the SLOW function is activated by the no oil, low oil
or fuel vacuum warning signal, test the engine harness
blocking diode as follows.
1995 models

2. Disconnect the port and starboard temperature switches
from the engine harness (Figure 113,typical).
3. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-o$n
I
scale.
switch tan wire (engine harness side) and the tan wire
128 CHAPTER THREE
terminal in the red engine harness connector. See Figure

114.
1996-2002 models

switches from the engine harness (Figure 113, typical). Engine harness connector Tan or
tanlblue wire
3. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or high-ohm (temperature
scale. switch)
Allmodels are equipped with QuikStart electronic start-

ing system. The QuikStart circuit automatically advances
the ignition timing when the engine temperature is less
than 93-99"" F (34-37" C) to improve engine warm-up.
The ignition timing remains advanced until engine tem-
perature exceeds approximately 93-99" F (34-37" C). In
addition, QuikStart also advances the ignition timing for
approximately 5 seconds each time the engine is started,
regardless of engine temperature. To prevent power head
damage due to detonation, the power pack disables
QuikStartat engine speeds exceeding approximately 1100
rpm, regardless of engine temperature.
ceed as follows:
(Table 16).
running this test.
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE NOTE
Make sure engine synchronization and link- The engine must be stopped before testing
age adjustments are correctly set as outlined each remaining cylinder to reset the Quik-
in Chapter Five. start circuit.
3. Place temporary marks on the flywheel indicating TDC 10. Stop the engine.
- Repeat Steps 6-9 for each remaining -
for all cylinders. cylinder.
4. Disconnect the whitelblack temperature switch wire a. If one or more cylinders do not react as specified
between the power pack and the port temperature switch. (Step 9), replace the timer base assembly. See Chap-
See Figure 115, typical. ter Seven.
5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the power head ac- b. If no cylinders react as specified (Step 9), refer to
cording to its manufacturer's instructions. QuikStart inoperative in this chapter.
6. Attach a timing light to the No. 1 cylinder according to c. If all cylinders react as specified (Step 9), the Quik-
the manufacturer's instructions. Start circuit is functioning properly.
7. Start the engine and shift into forward gear. Idle speed
must not exceed 900 rpm in gear during this test. Adjust QuikStart inoperative I
idle speed if necessary.

8. Observe the flywheel with the timing light. The No. 1 The following conditions will cause the QuikStart cir-
cylinder TDC mark should be near the timing pointer, cuit to be inoperative:
indicating the QuikStart system is functioning. a. Defective power coil.
9. While observing the timing marks, momentarily con- b. Defective power pack.
nect the whitelblack temperature switch wire. The timing c. Defective timer base (sensor coil[s]).
mark should shift to the left approximately 1 in. (25.4 rnm) d. An open circuit in the yellowlred wire between the
when the wire is connected, indicating that QuikStart has power pack and starter solenoid or key switch.
returned the timing to the normal setting. Troubleshoot the QuikStart circuit as follows:
1. Disconnect the whiteblack wire between the port tem-
perature switch and power pack (Figure 115, typical).
scale.
NOTE
Engine temperature must be less than 89' F
Stator (32" C ) in Step 3.
3. Connect the ohmmeter between the temperature switch

whiteblack wire and a good engine ground. The ohmmeter
should indicate no continuity (infinity) with engine tem-
perature less than 89" F (32" C).
a. If the meter indicates continuity in Step 3, test the
Ohmmeter
b. If the meter indicates no continuity in Step 3, con-
tinue at Step 4.
orangeblack power coil wires from the terminal block.
scale.
and alternately to the power coil orange and orangelblack
wires. See Figure 116. No continuity should be present
between either power coil wire and ground. If continuity
is noted, repair the shorted power coil wire or replace the
stator assembly as necessary. See Chapter Seven.
CHAPTER THREE
8. Connect the ohmmeter between the power coil orange Key Switch Test
and orangelblack wires. See Figure 112.
a. If power coil resistance is within 86-106 ohms, 1995 Models
Refer to Figure 117 for this procedure.
replace the stator assembly. 1. D i s c o ~ e cthe
t negative battery cable from the battery.
9. If testing is complete, reconnect all circuits discon- Disconnect the positive battery cable, then disconnect the
nected during this procedure. key switch wires from the switch.
2. Connect a test lamp or ohmmeter leads between the
switch terminals marked B A n and A. With the switch in
QuikSturt always on the OFF position, no continuity should be noted.
3. Turn the switch to the ON position. The test lamp
The following conditions can cause the QuikStart circuit should light or the meter should show continuity.
to remain on constantly:
4. Turn the switch to the START position. The test lamp
a. Engine overcooling (not warming up to operating
should light or the meter should show continuity.
temperature).
b. Defective temperature switch. 5. Hold the switch key in the START position and move
the test lead from terminal A to terminal S. The lamp
c. Defective power pack.
d. Defective starter solenoid or key switch.
6. Turn the switch to OFF Move the test leads to the two
If QuikStart remains on constantly when the engine is
terminals marked M. The test lamp should light or the
operated above 1100 rpm, the power pack is defective and
meter should show continuity.
must be replaced. If QuikStart remains on constantly re-
gardless of running time and engine temperature, when the 7. Turn the switch first to the START, then to the ON
engine is operated below 1100 rpm, continue as follows: position. There should be no continuity in either position.
1. Check for a defective starter solenoid or key switch, 8. Turn the switch OFF. Move the test leads to tenninal B
which may cause a small amount of voltage to bleed into and tenninal C. Turn the switch ON. There should be no
the yellowlred wire leading to the power pack. This small continuity. If equipped with a choke primer system, push
amount of voltage can activate the QuikStart circuit. inward on the key and the test lamp should light or the
2. Check for a defective or damaged port side engine meter should show continuity.
temperature switch as described in this chapter. 9. Repeat Step 8 with the switch in the START position.
3. Check for an open circuit or loose or corroded connec- The results should be the same as those in Step 8.
tions in the whitelblack power pack wire.
4. Check the engine for an overcooling condition as de-
scribed in this chapter.
5. If no other problems are noted in Steps 1-4,replace the
power pack. See Chapter Seven.
@ IGNITION SWITCH TERMINALS
(1995 MODELS)
RPM Limiting Power Pack
Power packs marked CDL are equipped with an internal

rpm limiting device designed to prevent power head dam-
age from overspeeding. On models so equipped, the power
pack interrupts ignition if engine speed exceeds 6700 rpm.
Make sure the correct power pack is used if replacement is
necessary.
KEY AND NEUTRAL START SWITCH
The key (ignition) and neutral start switches can be

tested with a self-powered test lamp or an ohmmeter. If
defective, replace the key switch with a marine switch. Do
not use an automotive switch.
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE 7. Turn the switch first to the START, then to the ON posi-
It is possible that the switch may pass an tion. There should be no continuity in either position.
ohmmeter test but still have an internal 8. Turn the switch OFF. Move the test leads to terminal B
short. Ifthe switch passes but does notfunc- and terminal C. Turn the switch ON. There should be no
tion properly, have a high-voltage leakage continuity. Push inward on the key and the test lamp
test performed by a qualified marine spe- should light or the meter should show continuity.
cialist, using a condenser tester
9. Repeat Step 8 with the switch in the START position.
10. Replace the switch if it fails any of the steps in this The results should be the same as those in Step 8.
procedure.
NOTE
It is possible that the switch may pass an
ohmmeter test but still have an internal
1996-2002 Models
short. g t h e switch passes but does notfunc-
Refer to Figure 118 for this procedure. tion properly, have a high-voltage leakage
test performed by a qual$ed marine spe-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. cialist, using a condenser tester
Disconnect the positive battery cable, then disconnect the
key switch wires from the switch. 10. Replace the switch if it fails any of the steps in this
2. Connect a test lamp or ohmmeter leads between the procedure.
switch terminals marked A and B. With the switch in the
OFF position, no continuity should be noted.
3. Turn the switch to the ON position. The test lamp Neutral Start Switch
The throttle cam or remote control box neutral start
4. Turn the switch to the START position. The test lamp switch is not adjustable. If it does not prevent the motor
should light or the meter should show continuity. from starting when the throttle is advanced beyond the
5. Hold the switch key in the START position and move START position, replace it.
the test lead from terminal A to terminal S. The lamp To check the neutral start switch, disconnect the nega-
should light or the meter should show continuity. tive battery cable and connect an ohmmeter between the
6. Turn the switch to OFE Move the test leads to the two switch wires. There should be continuity only when the
terminals marked M. The test lamp should light or the me- engine control is in NEUTRAL. If continuity is shown
ter should show continuity. with the engine control in FORWARD or REVERSE or if
the engine cranks in either gear, replace the switch.
FUEL SYSTEM
IGNITION SWITCH TERMINALS
(1996-2002 MODELS) Outboard motor owners often assume the carburetor(s)
is at fault if the engine does not run properly. While fuel
system problems are not uncommon, carburetor adjust-
ment is seldom the answer. In many cases, adjusting the
carburetor only compoundsthe problem by making the en-
gine run worse.
NOTE
Never attempt to adjust the carburetor(s)un-
til the following conditions are confirmed.
a. The ignition timing is correctly adjusted.

b. The engine throttle and ignition linkage have been
correctly synchronized and adjusted.
c. The engine is running at normal operating tempera-
C ture.
d. The outboard is in the water, running in forward gear
with the correct propeller installed.
CHAPTER THREE
Fuel system troubleshooting should start at the fuel tank leak can cause an increase in fuel consumption. These
and work through the entire fuel delivery system,reserving areas should all be checked before servicing the carburetor.
the carburetors as the final point. The majority of fuel
system problems result from an empty fuel tank, sour fuel,
a plugged fuel filter or a malfunctioning fuel pump. Table Electric Primer System
3 provides a series of symptoms and causes that can be
useful in localizing fuel system problems.
A primer solenoid is used on electric start models. See
Figure 119. When the key switch is pushed inward, the
Troubleshooting solenoid opens electrically and allows fuel to pass from the
fuel pump directly into the intake mamfold in sufficient
When troubleshooting the fuel system, first check the quantity to start the engine.
fuel flow. Remove the fuel tank cap and look into the tank.
If fuel is present, disconnect and ground the spark plug Check the primer solenoid operation by running the
leads to prevent starting. Disconnect the fuel hose from the engine at approximately 2000 rpm and depressing the
carburetor and place it in a suitable container to catch ignition key. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the
discharged fuel. Determine if fuel flows freely from the engine will run rich and drop about 1000 rpm until the key
hose when the primer bulb is squeezed. is released. If the solenoid is suspected of not operating
If no fuel flows from the hose, the fuel valve at the tank properly, shut the engine down and disconnect the pur-
may be shut off or blocked by rust or other foreign material. plelwhite wire from the terminal block. Connect an ohm-
The hose may be plugged or kinked or a primer bulb check meter between the purplelwhite wire and the black primer
valve may be defective. To determine if a restriction is solenoid ground wire. The ohmmeter should indicate 4-7
present in the fuel hose between the fuel pump and tank, ohms. If the solenoid does not perform as specified, repair
connect a suitable vacuum gauge into the fuel deliveryhose or replace the primer solenoid as necesary.
near (before) the fuel pump. Connect the vacuum gauge
using a length of clear plastic hose. Start the outboard (in
the water) and let it run at wide-open throttle while observ-
ing the vacuum gauge. If the gauge indicates more than 4
in. of vacuum, a restriction is present in the fuel line. If
bubbles are present in the clear plastic hose, an air leak is
present in the hose between the fuel tank and vacuum
gauge.
If a good fuel flow from the fuel hose is present, crank
the engine 10-12revolutions to check fuel pump operation.
A good, constant flow of fuel from the hose will result if
the pump is operating properly. If the fuel flow varies from
pulse to pulse, the pump may be failing. See Chapter Six
for fuel pump testing and service procedures.
During a hot engine shut-down, the fuel bowl tempera-
ture can rise above 200"F, causing the fuel inside to boil.
While outboard carburetors are vented to the atmosphere
to prevent this problem, there is a possibility some fuel will
percolate over the high-speed nozzle.
A leaking inlet valve or a defective float will allow an
excessive amount of fuel into the carburetor and intake
manifold. Pressure in the fuel line after the engine is shut
down forces fuel past the leaking inlet valve. This raises
the fuel level, allowing fuel to overflow the carburetor float
bowl.
Excessive fuel consumption may not necessarily mean
an engine or fuel system problem. Marine growth on the
boat's hull, a bent or otherwise damaged propeller or fuel
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE TEMPERATURE Engine temperature check

AND OVERHEATING (Thennomelt Stik procedure)
Proper engine temperature is critical to good engine At least two Thermomelt Stiks are necessary to check
operation. Internal engine damage will occur if the engine engine temperature. A 125" F (52" C) and a 163" F (73'
overheats. An outboard motor that runs too cool will expe- C) Thermomelt Stik are necessary to check engine tem-
rience the following conditions: perature.
a. Fouled spark plugs. To be accurate, the cooling water inlet temperature
b. Poorlrough idle operation. should be within 60-80" F (18-24" C). Remove the propel- I
c. Loss of wide-open throttle speed. ler and install the correct test wheel (Table 16). place the
d. Excessive fuel consumption. outboard motor in a suitable test tank.
e. Excessive carbon deposits in the combustion cham-
ber. NOTE
A variety of problems can cause an engine to overheat. Do not apply the Thermomelt Stik to the
Some of the most common are a defective thermostat, center of the cylinder head, as this area is
defective water pump or damaged or mislocated water nonnally hotter than 163" F (73" C).
passage restrictors.
1. Mark the top of the cylinder block near the cylinder
head with each Thermomelt Stik. See Figure 121. The
lkoubleshooting mark should appear similar to a chalk mark. Make sure
sufficient material is applied to the metal surface.
Check engine temperature using Markal Thermomelt 2. With the engine at normal operating temperature, run-
Stiks available at your Johnson or Evinrude Dealer. This ning at 900 rpm in forward gear, the 125" F mark should
heat-sensitive stick looks like a large crayon (Figure 120) melt. If not, the engine is running too cool. On thermostat
and is designed to melt at a specific temperature. equipped outboards, the thermostat may be stuck in the
A much more accurate and convenient method for open position, causing the engine to overcool.
checking engine temperature is by using a pyrometer. A 3. With the engine at normal operating temperature, run-
pyrometer is basically a thermometer which is capable of ning at 900 rpm in forward gear, the 163" F mark should
measuring high temperatures. Temperature adapters are not melt. If it does, the engine is overheating. Check for a
available for some digital multimeters which effectively defective water pump or plugged or leaking cooling sys-
convert the meter into a pyrometer. tem. On thermostat-equipped models, the thermostat may
be stuck closed.
4. Increase engine speed to 5000 rpm. The 163" F mark
should still not melt. If it does, the engine is overheating.
Check for a defective water pump, leaking cooling system,
damaged, missing or mislocated water passage restrictors.
Engine temperature check (pyrometer procedure)
For accurate results during the following procedure, the

cooling water temperature should be within 60-80" F (18-
24" C). Remove the propeller and install the correct test
wheel (Table 16), then place the outboard motor in a
suitable test tank.
1. Start the engine and run at 3000 rpm for at least five
minutes to make sure the engine is at operating tempera-
ture.
2. Reduce engine speed and run at 900 rpm for five
minutes. After five minutes, hold the pyrometer probe
against the top of the cylinder head and note the meter
reading. The temperature should be within 125-155" F
(52-68" C).
CHAPTER THREE
a. If the reading is below the specifled temperature, a. Tan wire-Close at 197-209" F (92-98" C); open at
check for the cause of overcooling. On thermostat 155-185" F (70-84" C).
equipped models, the thermostat may be stuck open. b. Tanlred wire--Close at 174-186"F (79-85" C); open
b. If the reading is above the specified temperature, the at 150-160" F (62-74" C).
engine is overheating. Check for a defective water c. Tadblack wire-Close at 206-218" F (107-103" C);
pump, plugged or leaking cooling system, damaged open at 155-190"F (70-84" C).
or missing restrictor plugs (under cylinder head) or d. Tanblue wire--Close at 234-246" F (110-118" C);
sticking thermostat (closed) on models so equipped. open at 192-222"F (103-117" C).
3. Increase engine speed to 5000 rpm and note the meter.
e. Tadgreen wire-Close at 221-233" F (123-129" C);
Engine temperature must not exceed 120" F (49" C) on open at 155-185"F (70-84" C).
130,250 and 300 hp models, 155" F (68" C) on 200 and
225 hp models and 160" F (71" C) on all other models. If
the temperature exceeds the specified amount, check for a
defective water pump, plugged or leaking cooling system,
damaged, missing or mislocated water passage restrictor
plugs (under cylinder heads) or a thermostat sticking
closed.
Engine Temperature Switches

The engine temperature switch is installed in the cylin-
der head(s) and is designed to activate a warning horn
should engine temperature exceed a specified limit.
To test switch operation,disconnectthe bullet connector,
unscrew the switch cover and remove the switch from the
cylinder head. See Figure 122,typical.
WARNNG
To preventJire or explosion when testing the
temperature switch, be sure to use a suitable
container to heat the oil. Use oil with aflash
point above 300" F (150" C), such as OMC
Cobra 4-Cycle Motor Oil. Never use an open
flame to heat the oil.
1. Connect a self-poweredtest lamp or ohmmeter between
the temperature switch wire and the metal body of the
switch.
2. Place the switch and an accurate thermometer in a
container of engine oil. See Figure 123.Slowly increase
the temperature of the oil using a hot plate or other suitable
heat source. Do not use open flame to heat the oil.
NOTE
If using a self-powered test lamp, the tester
lamp shouldlight when the switch closes and
go out when the switch opens. If using an
ohmmetel; the meter should indicate conti-
nuity when the switch closes and no continu-
ity when the switch opens.
3. While heating the oil, note the color of the switch wire
and observe the following switch closing temperatures.
Then, allow the oil to cool and observe the following
switch opening temperatures:
TROUBLESHOOTING
f. Whitehlack wire (except 60" V6 and 1993-on 60-70 the fuel. The use of a premium quality outboard motor
hp mode1s)~loseat 93-99' F (34-38" C); open at power head lubricant cannot be overemphasized. The cur-
86-92" F (30-34" C). rent TCW-3 specification for power head lubricants en-
g. White/black wire (60" V6 and 1993-on 60-70 sures that maximum lubrication is delivered with minimal
hp)-<lose at 102-108" F (39-43" C); open at carbon deposit build-up. Using gasoline from a major
87-93" F (30-34" C). brand manufacturer ensures that the fuel contains the de-
h. Tanhlack wire--Close at 206-218" F (107-103" C); tergents necessary to minimize carbon buildup from the
open at 155-190" F (70-84" C). fuel. Fuels that contain alcohol tend to build carbon at an
4. If the switch fails to function as specified, replace it. acceleratedrate. The manufacturer recommends avoiding
alcohol blended fuels whenever possible. Refer to Chap-
ter Four for additional fuel and oil recommendations.
ENGINE
Use OMC Engine Tuner periodically (as described in
Engine (power head) problems are generally the result Chapter Four) to remove carbon deposits from the com-
of a failure in another system, such as the ignition, fuel bustion chamber and piston rings before they can contrib-
(and lubrication) or cooling systems. If a power head is ute to high combustion chamber temperatures.
properly cooled, lubricated, timed and given the correct
airlfuel mixture, the engine should experience no me- I
chanical problems other than normal wear. If a power Preignition i
head fails, the emphasis must be to determine why the
power head failed. Just replacing failed mechanical com- Preignition is the premature ignition of the airlfuel
ponents will do no good if the cause of the failure is not charge in the combustion chamber. Preignition is caused
corrected. by hot spots in the combustion chamber. See Figure 124.
Basically, anything in the combustion chamber that gets
Overheating and Lack of Lubrication hot enough to ignite the airlfuel charge will cause
preignition. Glowing carbon deposits, inadequate cool-
Overheating and lack of lubrication cause the majority ing, improperly installed thread inserts, incorrect heaa
of engine mechanical problems. Anytime an outboard gaskets, sloppy machine work, previous combustion
motor is run, adequate cooling water must be supplied by chamber damage (nicks and scratches) or overheated (too
immersing the gearcase water inlets in the water (test tank hot) spark plugs can all cause preignition. Preignition is
or lake) or using an approved flushing device. The motor usually first noticed in the form of a power loss, but will
must only be run at low speeds when operated on a flush- eventually result in extensive damage to the internal engide
ing device. The motor must never be started without a wa- components (especially pistons) because of excessive com-
ter supply; water pump damage will occur in seconds. bustion chamber pressure and temperature. Preignition dam-
Carbon buildup in a two-stroke outboard motor will age typically looks like an acetylene torch was used to melt
cause premature power head failure. Carbon buildup away the top of the piston. Sometimes the piston will acd-
comes from two possible sources; the lubricating oil and ally have a hole melted through the crown. It is important k~
PREIGNITION I
I
Ignited by hot deposit Regular ignition spark Ignites remaining fuel Flame fronts collide
I
I
I
I
~
I
CHAPTER THREE
remember that preignition can lead to detonation and deto- 4. Spark advance-Spark occurring too early causes ex-
nation can lead to preignition. Both types of damage may cessive combustion chamber pressures. Spark occurring
be evident when the engine is disassembled. extremely late causes the combustion flame front to
quench along a larger surface area of the cylinder walls,
exceeding the cooling system capacity to remove the heat.
Detonation Both of these situations raise the octane requirements.
5. Operating speed--Propping an engine so that it cannot
Commonly referred to as spark knock or fuel knock, reach the recommended operating speed range is consid-
detonation is the violent, spontaneousexplosion of fuel in ered lugging or over-propping the engine. This is like
the combustion chamber, as opposed to the smooth, pro- trying to drive a manual shift car or truck in too high of
gressive, even burning of the airlfuel mixture that occurs gear. When an engine is over-propped to the point that it
during normal combustion. See Figure 125. When deto- cannot reach its recommended speed,combustion chamber
nation occurs, combustion chamber pressure and tempera- temperatures will skyrocket, increasing the octane require-
ture rise dramatically, creating severe shock waves in the ment.
engine. This will cause severe engine damage. It is not Fuel degrades over time and storage causes the actual
unusual for detonation to break a connecting rod or crank- octane rating of the fuel to drop. Even though the fuel may
shaft in two. have exceeded the manufacturer's recommendations when
Detonation occurs when the octane requirements of the the fuel was fresh, it may have dropped well below recom-
engine exceed the octane of the fuel being used. It does not mendations over time. Use a fuel conditioner, such as
necessarily mean that the wrong fuel is being used. It does OMC 2+4 fuel conditioner to prevent octane deterioration.
mean that at the time of detonation, the engine needed The fuel conditioner must be added to fresh fuel, it will not
higher octane fuel than was being used. All fuel will raise the octane of stale or sour fuel.
spontaneously explode if it is subjectedto enough pressure It is better to properly and safely dispose of questionable
and high enough temperature. fuel and start with a fresh tank, rather than risk a power
The fuel octane requirements of an engine are generally head failure. Power head failure typically occurs in a few
determined by the: seconds or less when an engine is detonating, so rarely can
1. Compression ratio-Higher compression ratios require an operator detect detonation and reduce engine speed in
higher octane fuel. It is important to note that carbon time to save the power head. It is important to remember
buildup in the combustion chamber raises compression that detonation can lead to preignition and preignition can
ratios. lead to detonation. Both types of damage may be evident
2. Combustion chamber temperature-Higher tempera- when the engine is disassembled.
tures require higher octane fuel. Water pump and thermo-
stat malfunctions typically raise the combustion chamber Poor Idle Quality
temperature.
3. Air/fel mixture-Leaner mixtures require higher oc- Poor idle quality can usually be attributed to one of the
tane fuel, richer mixtures require lower octane fuel. following conditions:
DETONATION
Spark occurs Combustion begins Continues and results in Detonation
TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Overcooling-If the power head does not reach the correctly adjusted for the engine to idle and accelerate
recommended operating temperature, fuel tends to puddle properly. An engine that is too lean at idle will spit or
in the crankcase, resulting in a lean airlfuel ratio in the backfire through the carburetor at idle and hesitate during
combustion chamber. This tends to produce a lean spit or acceleration. Refer to Chapter Six for carburetor adjust-
backfire through the carburetor at idle. Overheating is ments.
usually caused by debris caught in the thermostats and
poppet valve assembly. Refer to the Engine Temperature
and Overheating section in this chapter for engine tem- Misfiring
perature checks.
True misfiring is an ignition system malfunction, gener-
2. Crankcase seal failure-A two-stroke engine cannot ally caused by weak (or erratic) spark or defective spark
function unless the crankcase is adequately sealed. As the plugs. The ignition system is simply not able to deliver
piston travels downward, the crankcase must pressurize enough spark energy to fire the spark plug at the time of
and push the airlfuel mixture into the combustion chamber
the misfire.
as the intake ports are uncovered. Conversely, as the piston
travels upward, the crankcase must create a vacuum to pull Four-stroking is a form of misfire caused by an aidfuel
the airlfuel mixture into the crankcase from the carburetor ratio so rich that it cannot consistently ignite. The term
in preparation for the next cycle. four-stroking comes from the fact that the engine is typi-
cally firing every other revolution (like a four-stroke en-
Leaks in the crankcase cause the aidfuel charge to leak
gine), instead of every revolution. Four-stroking is caused
into the atmosphere under crankcase compression.During
by a fuel system malfunction. Check for excessive fuel
the intake cycle, crankcase leakage will cause air from the pump pressure, carburetor(s) with leaking inlet needle and
atmosphere to be drawn into the crankcase, diluting the seats or fuel primer systems stuck in the on position.
airlfuel charge. The net result is inadequate fuel in the
Mechanical failure (insufficient compression) can cause
combustion chamber. On multiple cylinder engines, each
a misfire at all speeds, but will often cause a cylinder to not
crankcase must be sealed from all other crankcases. Inter-
fire at idle and low speeds, then begin firing at mid-range
nal leakage will allow the airlfuel charge to leak to another
and high speed. Always perform a compression test to
cylinder's crankcase, rather than travel to the correct com-
verify the mechanical integrity of the combustion chamber.
bustion chamber. Refer to Starting Dificulties at the be-
ginning of this chapter for additional information.
3. Fuel recirculation system failure-Multiple cylinder Flat Spots and Hesitation During Acceleration
motors are equipped with a fuel recirculation system de-
signed to collect unburned fuel and oil from the low spots If the engine seems to hesitate or bog when the throttle
of the individual crankcase areas. Since the intake system is opened, check for a restricted main jet in the carbure-
used by two-stroke engines does not completely transfer tor(~),water in the fuel or an excessively lean fuel mixture.
all of the fuel sent through the crankcase to the combustion Incorrect synchronizationof the spark advance to the throt-
chamber (especially during low-speed operation), the re- tle opening (on models with adjustments) can cause flat
circulation system provides a method of collecting the fuel spots and hesitation during acceleration.
and oil pooled in the low spots of the crankcase and
transferring it to the intake ports or intake manifold where
it can be burned. Water Leakage into Cylinder(s)
Correct recirculation system operation is vitally impor- A simple method to check for water leakage into a
tant to efficient engine operation. If the system fails, ex- cylinder is to check the spark plugs. Water in the combus-
cessive amounts of fuel and oil will puddle in the crankcase tion chamber tends to clean the spark plug. If one spark
and not reach the combustion chamber during low-speed plug in a multicylinder engine is clean and the others have
operation, causing a lean mixture. When the engine is normal deposits, a water leak is likely in the cylinder with
accelerated, the puddles of fuel and oil are quickly drawn the clean spark plug. A compression test can also be
into the engine causing a temporary excessively rich mix- performed to check the mechanical integrity of the com-
ture. This will result in poor low-speed performance, poor bustion chamber. The piston crown can be visually in-
acceleration, spark plug fouling, stalling or spitting at idle spected for the absence of carbon deposits. A cylinder
and excessive smoke during acceleration. Refer to Chapter crown that looks steam cleaned is a typical indication of
Six for fuel recirculation system service. water leakage into that combustion chamber. If the exhaust
4. Incorrect carburetor adjustments or carburetor mal- port area can be accessed, look for evidence of hard min-
functions-Each carburetor's idle mixture screw must be eral deposits and the absence of soft, wet carbon deposits.
CHAPTER THIPEE
Water Damage in Power Head Lower Cylinder(s) compression after the treatment. If the compression is now
within specification, consider changing lubricant and fuel
While water leakage into the combustion chambers is to higher quahty brands. See Chapter Four.
generally caused by defective or failed head gaskets, water
If the compression is still not within specifications after
can also enter the lower cylinder(s) of a power head the Engine Tuner treatment, the motor must be disassem-
through the exhaust ports and carburetor(s). When a steep bled, the defect located and repaired. After the power head
unloading ramp or tilted trailer bed is used to launch the
rebuild, make sure the carburetors and fuel pump are
boat from a trailer and the boat enters the water too quickly,
rebuilt, a new water pump and thermostat(s) are installed
water can be forced into the drive shaft housing and up and all synchronizationand linkage adjustments are made
through the exhaust chamber into the cylinders if the (Chapter Five).
pistons are not covering the exhaust ports.
Sudden deceleration, with the engine shut off, can cause Marine growth on the bottom of the hull and lower
a wave to swamp the engine and enter the exhaust ports or gearcase will drastically reduce the top speed and fuel
through the lower carburetor(s). This is most prevalent economy of any boat. If the motor is in a good state of tune
with stem-heavy boats. Operating a twin engine boat with and has no apparent malfunction, yet fuel economy and top
one engine shut off is considered hazardous because there speed are unacceptable, inspect the bottom of the hull and
is no exhaust back pressure to keep water out of the engine lower gearcase for marine growth and clean as necessary.
that is not running. This is most likely when backing the
boat up with one engine shut off. It is recommended that Power Output Verification
the engine that is not being used (for docking or low speed
maneuvering) be left running at idle speed to reduce the This procedure requires the manufacturer recommended
risk of water entry. test wheel. Test wheel part numbers and minimum test
Water entering a cylinder can result in a bent connecting speed are listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the
rod, a broken piston andlor piston pin, a cracked cylinder front of this manual. A test wheel is designed to apply a
andor cylinder head or any combination of these condi- calibrated load to the engine, while producing minimum
tions. Even if no immediatephysical damage is done to the thrust. This prevents the motor from quickly throwing all
power head, the entry of water will result in rust and of the water out of a test tank, or if on a trailer or tied to a
corrosion of all internal surfaces (bearings, crankshaft, dock, prevents damage to the trailer or dock.
cylinder walls, connecting rods and piston rings).
CAUTION
Power Loss
water supply and do not exceed 3000 rpm
Several factors can cause a loss of power. Remember that
Precautions at the beginning of this chaptel:
an engine needs 3 things to run properly: compression,fuel
and ignition. Check the mechanical integrity of the com-
To determine if the engine is producing its rated output,
bustion chamber by performing a cranking compression
proceed as follows:
test. Test the ignition system with an air gap tester and
venfy ignition timing at wide-open throttle. Check the fuel 1. Remove the propeller and install the correct test wheel
system for air leaks into the fuel lines and fittings and test (Quick Reference Data). Install the test wheel as you
the fuel pump for adequate output pressure at wide-open would a normal propeller. See Chapter Nine.
throttle. Clean or replace all fuel filters. Remove the car- 2. Connect an accurate tachometer to the power head
buretor(~)and inspect the float chamber for water in the according to its manufacturer's instructions.
fuel and gum or varnish build-up in the metering passages 3. Place the outboard in a test tank, or back the boat and
and jets. Clean all of the carburetors if any debris or trailer into the water until the gearcase is submerged to at
build-up is found in any one carburetor. least its normal operating depth.
If the compression test reveals a mechanical defect in a 4. Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal operat-
combustion chamber, treat the engine with OMC Engine ing temperature. Then shift into FORWARD gear and run
Tuner. Many times the piston rings are stuck to the piston the engine at wide-open throttle while noting the tachome-
and cannot adequately seal to the cylinder walls. Engine ter reading.
Tuner can free stuck piston rings and prevent unnecessary 5. If the engine's speed meets or exceeds the minimum
disassembly if no mechanical damage has yet occurred. rpm listed in the test wheel table, the engine is producing
Follow the instructionson the containerand retest cranking its rated horsepower.
TROUBLESHOOTING
6. If the engine's speed is less than specified, the engine Piston Seizure
is not producing its rated horsepower. The problem will be
located in one of the following areas: Piston seizure can be caused by insufficient piston-to- I
cylinder bore clearance, improper piston ring end gap, 11

a. Stuck piston rings or excessive carbon deposits in inadequate or inferior lubrication, cooling system failure
the combustion chambers. Remove any carbon de- (overheating), preignition or detonation.
posits from the combustion chambers by using OMC
Engine Tuner as described in Chapter Four.
Excessive Vibration
b. Insufficient cranking compression on one or more
cylinders. Check the cranking compression as de- Excessive vibration can be caused by an engine misfir-
scribed in Chapter Four. ing- on one or more cylinders, loose or broken motor
c. Incorrect synchronization and linkage adjustments. mounts and worn or failed bearings. Gearcase problems
Refer to Chapter Five and perform all synchroniza- that can cause excessive vibration are a bent propeller
tion and linkage adjustments. shaft, damaged propeller or a propeller with marine growth
on the blades. A propeller that is ventilating from damage
d. Ignition system malfunction. Check the ignition sys-
or defects on the leading edge of the gearcase, an improp-
tem spark output as specified in Preliminary checks
in the appropriate ignition section (Chapter Seven). erly mounted speedometer or a depth finder sending unit
or any hull deformity that disturbs the water flow to the
e. Fuel system malfunction. Test the fuel system for propeller can cause excessive vibration.
restrictions and the fuel pump output as described in
this chapter.
Engine Noise
f. Carburetor malfunction. Connect a timing light to
the engine and shine its beam down each carburetor Experience is needed to diagnose engine noises accu-
throat as the engine is run at various speeds. The fuel rately. Noises are difficult to differentiate and harder yet to
plume from each carburetor must be of the same describe. Even a properly assembled two-stroke power
volume and shape as the other carburetor(s). Re- head produces much more mechanical noise than its four-
move and rebuild any suspect carburetors. See Chap- stroke counterpart and a two-stroke power head produces
ter Six. substantial intake (induction) noise. Deep knocking noises
g. If all tests to this point are satisfactory, inspect the usually mean crankshaft main or rod bearing failure. A
reed valves for damage (Chapter Six). If the reed light slapping noise generally comes from a loose piston,
valves are in good condition, the engine may simply however some piston noise is normal, especially during
be worn out (cranking compression even, but low). warm-up. Any knocking noise on acceleration or at high
If so, the engine will have to be rebuilt to achieve its speed could be preignition or detonation and must be
rated output. See Chapter Eight. investigated immediately.
Table I TEST EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS

Description Part No. Manufacturer
Air gap spark tester
Four-cylinder S-48 H Stevens Instruments
Four-cylinder 55-48 Merc-0-Tronic
Six-cylinder 55-68 Merc-0-Tronic
Eight-cylinder S-48 Stevens Instruments
Amphend type terminal tools
Crimping pliers 322696 OMC
Pin insertion tool 322697 OMC
Pin removal tool (male) 322698 OMC
Pin removal tool (female) 322699 OMC
Amphenol connector break out boxes
SA-6 SA-6 Stevens Instruments
Model 55-861 55-861 Merc-0-Tronic
I (continued) I
140 CHAPTER THREE
Table 1 TEST EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS (continued)

Description Part No. Manufacturer
Deutsch type terminal tools
Crimping pliers 322696 OMC
Terminal service tool 342667 OMC
Terminal sewice klt 507197 OMC
Ignition analyzer
SF75 SF75 Stevens Instruments
Ignition test kit (60" V4 and V6) 434017 OMC
Packard test lead sets
60" V4 437270 OMC
60" V6 434127 OMC
Peak reading voltmeter (PRV)
CD-77 CD-77 Stevens Instruments
Model 781 781 Merc-0-Tronic
Power pack load adaptor PL-88 Stevens Instruments
Standard crimping pliers 500906 OMC
Temperature gun (infrared) 772018 OMC
Terminal extenders (ignition coil) TS-77 Stevens Instruments
Thermomelt Stiks F100,125,163 Stevens Instruments
Table 2 WIRING HARNESS COLOR CODES (TRADITIONAL HARNESSES)

I
Yellowlred
Black/yellow
Black
Purplehhite
Tan
Purple
Protected B+ Redlpurple
Black
Trimhilt circuits
Blue
Trim motor down Green
Bluelwhite
Switching down Greenlwhite
Switching circuit B+ Redhvhite
Rim sender circuit Whlteltan
Black or blacWtan
Table 3 WIRING HARNESS COLOR CODES (MODULAR WIRING HARNESS)

I Color code I
Main harness circuits
Starter engagement Yellowlred
Tachometer Gray
Stop 1 (ignition side) BlackEyellow
Stop 2 (ground side) Blacklwhite
Choke or primer Purplelwhite
Overheat warning Tan
I (continued)
TROUBLESHOOTING 141
Table 3 WIRING HARNESS COLOR CODES (MODULAR WIRING HARNESS) (continued)

I Color code I
Main harness circuits (continued)
No oil warning Tadyellow
Low oil warning Tanlblack
Warning horn control Tanlblue
Grounds Black
Trlmltilt circuits
Trim motor up Blue
Switching up Bluelwhite
Switching circult B+ Redlwhite
Trim sender circuit Whitan
Table 4 MINIMUM BATTERY CABLE SIZES (AWG)*

Cable length V4 V6 and V8
1-10 R. (0.3-3.0 m) 4 gauge 4 gauge
11-15 R. (3.4-4.6 m) 3 gauge 2 gauge
16-20 R. (4.9-6.1 m) 1 gauge 1 gauge
Stranded copper cables. Do not use aluminum cables.
Table 5 STARTER SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Snn~tom Probable cause Remedy
Low no-load speed
with high current draw Tight or dirty bushings Clean and lubricate bushings
Shorted armature Test armature on growler
Low no-load speed

with low current draw High resistance in the
armature circuit. Check brushes and springs.
Test armature on growler.
Clean and inspect commutator.
High current draw with no rotation Stuck armature Clean and lubricate bushings,
remove internal corrosion.
Internal short to ground Check brush leads for shorts.
No current draw with no rotation Open armature circuit Check brushes and springs.
Starter continues runnlng

after key is released. Solenoid stuck on Replace solenoid.
Key switch failure Test key switch.
Yellowlred lead
circuit malfunction. Remove yellowlred lead from
solenoid. If starter now stops, repair
or replace the yellowlred lead from
the starter switch to the starter solenoid.
(continued)
142 CHAPTER THREE
Table 5 STARTER SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING* (continued)

Symptom Probable cause Remedy
Starter turns motor over too slowly. Solenoid has high

internal resistance Measure voltage drop across the
solenoid while starter is engaged.
Connect red voltmeter lead to battery
side of solenoid and black voltmeter
lead to the starter side. Measure
voltage with starter engaged.
Mechanicalfailure of
power head or gearcase. Turn flywheel by hand. If resistance
is excessive, remove gearcase and
recheck. Repair gearcase or
power head.
Battery cables too small or

excessively long. Do not use cables smaller than
the manufacturer installed. If
extending cable length, use larger
diameter cables.
Starter spins but starter

drive does not engage. Starter drive is corroded or
needs lubrication. Clean thoroughly and lubricate the
splines under the starter drive.
Starter is not producing
necessaryspeedand
toque to engage the drive. Check the battery charge, battery
cables and connections. Test the
solenoid voltage drop (see Starter
turns motor slowly).
Disassemblethe starter and:
Clean and lubricate bushings
Check brushes and springs.
Table 6 CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Battery overcharges
Unregulated system Extended high speed
running Turn on accessories
during high speed runs.
Regulated system Regulator failure Test sense circuit, if OK,
replace regulator.
Stator shorted to ground Perform Stator Resistance Tests
I Battery gasses excessively Overcharging

Defective battery
(internally shorted)
See Battery overcharges.
Substitute another battery and retest.
Battery loses charge

with engine running Alternator failure Test system per text.
Excessive accessory load Perform Current Draw Test.
(continued)
I
TROUBLESHOOTING 143
Table 6 CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Battery loses charge during storage Current drain from
engine components Perform rectifier or rectifierlregulator
ohmmeter tests.
Current drain from
accessories left on Verify accessories off,
consider installing battery switch.
Defective battery Disconnect battery cables. If battery still
loses charge, battery is defective.
Table 7 IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Engine will not start (spark tests good) Fouled spark plugs Clean or replace spark plugs.
lncorrect timing from
sheared flywheel key Check flywheel key.
Engine backfire Improper timing Check timing.

Incorrect firing order Check primary and secondary
lead routing and connections.
Cracked spark plug insulator Replace spark plugs.
High speed misfire Insufficient spark Perform air gap spark test.
Incorrect spark plug gap Gap spark plugs (if applicable).
Loose electrical connections Check battery connections, engine
harness connections and terminals.
Secondary spark leakage Inspect ignition coils and spark plug leads
for cracks, arcing and evidence of leakage.
Engine pre-ignition Excessively high combustion

chamber temperature. Check for correct spark plugs.
Check for excessive spark advance.
Inspect cooling system.
Check fuel system for restricted
supply (lean mixture).
Spark plug failure Incorrect spark plugs Use correct spark plugs.
Spark plugs not torqued Torque spark plugs.
Airlfuel mixture incorrect Check fuel supply and carburetors.
Excessive carbon buildup Use recommendedfuel and oil.
Engine overheat Inspect cooling system.
Ignition component failure Loose electrical connections Clean and tighten all connections.
Loose mounting (vibration) Tighten mounting hardware.
Overheating Inspect cooling system.
Corrosion (water damage) Locate source of moisture.
Table 8 FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

I ~nn~tom Probable cause Remedy I
Engine will not start No fuel to carburetors Verify gas in tank.
Check gas tank air vents.
Check gas tank pickup filter.
Clean all fuel filters.
Verify primer bulb operation.
Carburetor failure Rebuild and adjust carburetors.
I (continued)
I
CHAPTER THREE
Table 8 FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Flooding at carburetor Carburetor float malfunction Disassemble suspect carburetor and
replace inlet needle and seat. Adjust
float level.
Excessive fuel pump pressure
overcoming float system. Check fuel pump pressure.
Check for stuck piston rings.
Loss of power, hesitation Restricted fuel supply

on acceleration (lean airlfuel mixture) Clean fuel filters, check fuel lines
for kinks and restrictions. Check
carburetor jets for obstructions.
Air leakage into fuel supply Check aUI connections and hoses
between fuel pickup and fuel pump.
( Engine backfire Lean airlfuel ratio Adjust idle mixture and speed.
Rough operation Water or dirt in fuel Clean fuel system.

Broken or damaged
reed valve(s) Inspect reed valves.
Engine pre-ignition Restricted fuel supply

(lean airlfuel mixture) Clean fuel filters, check fuel lines
for kinks and restrictions. Check
carburetor jets for obstructions.
Low fuel pump pressure Check fuel pump pressure.
Air leakage into fuel supply Check all connections and hoses
between fuel pickup and fuel pump.
Engine detonation Fuel octane does not meet

engine octane requirements Use higher octane fuel.
Check for excessive carbon
buildup in combustion chamber.
See Preignition.
Excessive fuel consumption Carburetor

float malfunction Rebuild and adjust carburetor.
Blocked air bleeds Clean air bleeds.
Gasket failure Replace all gaskets.
Cracked carburetor
casting@) Replace castings as needed.
Incorrect metering jets Install correct jets.
High fuel pump pressure Test fuel pump pressure and
check for stuck piston rings.
Spark plug fouling Fuel mixture too rich See excessive fuel consumption.
Excessive oil in fuel Mix fuel and oil at recommended
ratio. Test oil injection pump.
Table 9 STARTER NO-LOAD CURRENT DRAW TEST SPECIFICATIONS
Model Maximum current RPM
90" V4 5350 (minimum)

60" V4 6500 (minimum)
150,175 hp and 105 jet 10,500 (minimum)
200-300 hp 10,500 (minimum)
TROUBLESHOOTING
lhble 1 0 STATOR (AUERNATOR) IDENTIFICATION AND RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS

Model System Resistance
90" V4 (cross-flow)
1995 models
65 jet 9 amp regulated
80 jet
Tiller handle 6 amp non-regulated
Remote control 9 amp regulated
85 BackTmller 10 amp regulated
88 and 112 Special
Long shaft (20 in.) 6 amp non-regulated
Extra-long shaft (25 in.) 9 amp regulated
90and 115 hp 9 amp regulated
1996-1997 models
88,90,112 and 115 Special
Extra-long shaft (25 in.) 9 amp regulated
1998 models
90 and 115 Special 9 amp regulated
60" V4 (loop-charged)
1995-1997 models
90and115hp 20 amp regulated
1998 models
90,115 hp and 80 jet 20 amp regulated
130 hp 9 amp regulated
150-175 hp and 105 jet 35 amp regulated
200-300 hp 35 amp regulated
Table I 1 BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS
I RPM
6 amp
non-regulated
9 amp
regulated1
10 amp
regulated
9 amp
regulated2
2 0 amp
regulated
35 amp
regulated I
1000 3.0 amps 5.5 amps 5.0 amps 4.0 amps 10.0 amps 23.0 amps
1.90' (cross-flow) models.

2.90' (loop-charged [I30 hp]) models.
Table 1 2 IGNITION SYSTEM IDENTIFICATION

Model System Features RPM limit
65 jet CD4 - 5800
80 jet (1995-1997 [EO-EU]) CD4 - 5800
80 jet (1998 [EC]) CD4 QuikStart, S.L.0.W 6400
85 BackTroller CD4 - -
88,90,112 and 115 Special CD4 - -
90 and 115 hp (90" models) CD4 - -
90 and 115 hp (60" models) CD4 QuikStart, S.L.O.W. 6400
130 hp CD4 QuikStart, S.L.0.W 6700
150,175 hp and 105 jet OIS2000 QuikStart, S.L.O.W. 6100
200and225hp CD6 QuikStart, S.L.O.W. 6700
250and300hp CD8 QuikStart, S.L.O.W. 6700
CHAPTER THREE
Table 13 IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS

CircuWcomponent Specification
Primary windings 0.05-0.1 5
Secondary windings 225-325
Spark plug leads
Black leads (90" models) 0 (continuity)
Gray leads (60" models)
12.5 in. (318 mm) long 420-620
13.5 in. (343 mm) long 460-660
14.5 in. (368 mm) long 500-700
Table 14 IGNITION SYSTEM RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS

Normal (QuikStart)
Model Charge coil sensor coil Power coil
90" v4
6 amp charging system 500-620 30-50 -
9 and 10 amp charging system 430-530 30-50 -
60"v4 1000.1200 - 45-65
130 hp 430-530 35-55 (110-160) 86-106
60" V6 495-605 - 45-65
200-300 hp 765-935 see text 86-106
1. Cross-flow models.
2. Loop-charged models.
Table 15 IGNITION SYSTEM MINIMUM PEAK VOLTAGE SPECIFICATIONS

Normal (Quiltstart)
Charge coil sensor coi Power coil Power pack output
Model cranking l cranking cranking cranking ( ~ n n i n g )
90" V4 150 0.3 (-) - 150 (230)
60" V4 250 - (-1 50 200 (130)
130 hp 175 0.5 (0.5) - 150 (180)
60" V6 150 - (-1 50 100 (130)
200-300 hp 130 0.2 (0.8) - 100 (130)
Table 16 TEST WHEEL (PROPELLER1 RECOMMENDATIONS

- - - - --
!&andad rotation Counter-rotation

Model OMC part No. OMC part No. Minimum test RPM
85-115 hp (90" V4)
1995 models 382861 - 5000
1996-1998 382861 - 4800
90 hp (60" V4)
Long shaft (20 In.) 382861 - 4500
Extra-long shaft (25 in.) 387388 - 4500
115 hp (60" V4)
Long shaft (20 in.) 382861 - 4800
130 hp 387388 398673 5300
(continued)
TROUBLESHOOTING 147
1
Table 16 TEST WHEEL [PROPELLER) RECOMMENDATIONS (continued)
Model
Standard rotation
OMC part No.
Counter-rotation
OMC part No. Minimum test RPM
~
I
150 hp 387388 398673 4506

175 hp 387388 398673 4800
200and225hp 436080 or 396277 436081 or 398674 5000
250and300hp 396277 398674 5500
65-105 jet models Not applicable

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Four
Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up
The modern outboard motor delivers more power and The recommended fuel is regular or premium unleaded
performance then ever before, with higher compression, gasoline with aminimumpump octane rating of 87. For op-
new and improved electrical systems and other design ad- timum performance and maximum engine life, gasoline
vances. Proper lubrication, maintenance and tune-up have with an octane rating of 89 or higher is recommended. Pre-
thus become increasingly important as ways in which you mium grade gasoline produced by a national brand refin-
can maintain a high level of performance, extend engine ery is specifically recommended. Premium grade
life and extract the maximum economy of operation. gasolines (91-93 octane) contain a high concentration of
You can do your own lubrication, maintenance and detergent and dispersant additives that prevent carbon de-
tune-up if you follow the correct procedures and use com- posits on pistons and rings.
mon sense. The following information is based on recom- The use of alcohol extended gasoline is not recom-
mendations from Johnson and Evinrude that will help you mended. However, gasoline containing not more than 10
keep your outboard motor operating at its peak perfor- percent ethanol alcohol or 5% methanol alcohol with 5%
mance level. Tables 1-5 are located at the end of this chap- cosolvents may be used if it meets the minimum octane re-
ter. quirements. If alcohol extended gasoline is frequently
used, carefully inspect the fuel system at regular intervals.
Replace fuel system components if deterioration, corro-
LUBRICATION sion or leakage is noted.
Proper Fuel Selection CAUTION

Do not use gasoline containing more than
10% ethanol or 5% methanol regardless of
Two-stroke engines are lubricated by mixing oil with the
the octane rating.
fuel. The internal components of the engine are lubricated
as the fueUoil mixture passes through the crankcase and
cylinders. Since outboard fuel serves the dual function of Sour Fuel
producing combustion and distributing the lubrication,
avoid the use of low octane marine white gasoline or any Do not store gasoline for more than 60 days (under ideal
other fuel not intended for use in modern gaso- conditions). Gasoline forms gum and varnish deposits as it
line-powered engines. Among other problems, such fuel ages. Such fuel will cause starting problems, carburetor
has a tendency to cause piston ring sticking and exhaust plugging and poor performance. Use a fuel additive such
port plugging. as OMC 2+4 Fuel Conditioner in the fuel during storage.
LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 149
Always use fresh gasoline when mixing fuel for your

outboard.
Recommended Fuel Mixture
I
i
Alcohol Extended Gasoline
NOTE
Ifthe outboard is equipped with oil injection,
read this chapter then refer to Chapter
~
Some gasoline sold for marine use contains alcohol,
Eleven. 1
although this fact may not be advertised. Although the
manufacturer does not recommend using alcohol extended The recommended oil is Evinrude or Johnson ~utboartdI
1
gasoline, testing to date has found that it causes no major Lubricant, Evinrude or Johnson XP Outboard Lubricant qr
OMC 2-Cycle Motor Oil.
deterioration of fuel system components when consumed
immediately after purchase.
I
~I
Gasoline with alcohol slowly absorbs moisture from the CAUTION
atmosphere. When the moisture content of the fuel reaches Do not, under any circumstances, use multi-
approximately one half of one percent, it combines with grade or other high detergent automotive oil
or oil containing metallic additives. Such oil
the alcohol and separates (phase separation) from the is harmful to two-stroke engines, and will
gasoline. This separation does not normally occur in an result in piston scoring, bearing failure or
automobile, as the fuel is generally consumed within a few other engine damage.
days after purchase; however, because boats often remain
idle for days or even weeks, the problem does occur in
marine use. If Evinrude, Johnson or OMC oil is not available, use Ia
good quality oil with the NMMA certification TCW-3.
Moisture and alcohol become very corrosive when
mixed and will cause corrosion of metal components and
deterioration of rubber and plastic fuel system compo-
nents. In addition, the alcohol and water mixture will settle Models without oil injection 1
to the bottom of the fuel tank. If this mixture enters the
engine, it will wash off the oil film and may result in The fuel-oil ratio for normal service is 50:l. Mix 8 .
corrosion and damage to the cylinder walls and other oz. (236 mL) of a recommended oil for each three gallons
4
internal engine components. It will be necessary to drain (11.4 L) of gasoline. To provide the additional lubricank
the fuel tank, flush out the fuel system with clean gasoline, required during the break-in period (first 10 hours df
and if necessary, remove and clean the spark plugs before
the motor can be started.
operation) of a new or rebuilt power head, a 25: 1 fuel-oi
ratio should be used. Mix 16 fl. oz. (473 rnL) of a recomt I
The following is an accepted and widely used field mended oil with each 3 gallons (11.4 L) of gasoline. ~ f t e ~
procedure for detecting alcohol in gasoline. Note that the the first 10 hours of operation (break-in period), switch t
gasoline must be checked prior to mixing with the oil. Use a 50: 1 mixture.
any small transparent bottle or tube that can be capped and
can be provided with graduations or a mark at approxi-
mately 113 full. A pencil mark on a piece of adhesive tape
is sufficient.
Models equipped with oil injection 1
1. Fill the container with water to the 113 full mark.
To provide the additional lubricant required during tht/ I
2. Add gasoline until the container is almost full. Leave a break-in period (fist 10 hours of of a new o{
small air space at the top.
3. Shake the container vigorously, then allow it to set for
3-5 minutes. If the of water appears to have in-
creased, alcohol is present. If the dividing line between the
rebuilt power head, a 50:1 fuelloil mixture should be use
i, th, fuel tank in addition to the normal oil injectio
system. After the first 10hours of operation, first be certai
the oil injection systemis functioning (oil level in reservo$
4
7
I
I
I
water and gasoline becomes cloudy, reference from the droppiog), then switch to straight gasoline in the fuel tank!
center of the cloudy band.
This procedure can not differentiate between types of CAUTION
alcohol (ethanol or methanol), nor is it considered to be If the oil injection system is not used, a 25:l
absolutely accurate from a scientific standpoint, but it is fuel/oil mixture must be used during the
accurate enough to determine if sufficient alcohol is pre- break-in period and a 50:I mixture during 1
sent to cause the user to take precautions. nomzal service.
CHAPTER FOUR
Correct Fuel Mixing characteristics are not suitable for marine

use.
WARNNG
Gasoline is an extremefire hazard. Never use Proceed as follows to drain and refill the lower unit
gasoline near heat, sparks or flame. Do not lubricant.
smoke while mixing fuel. 1. Disconnect all spark plug wires to prevent accidental
starting.
Mix the fuel and oil outdoors or in a well-ventilated
2. Position the outboard motor in the normal operating
indoor location. Using less than the specified amount of
position. Place a suitable container under the gearcase.
oil can result in insufficient lubrication and serious engine
damage. Using more oil than specified causes spark plug CAUTZON
fouling, erratic carburetor operation, excessive smoking Do not attempt to fill the gearcase without
and rapid carbon accumulation. $rst removing the oil level plug. The gear-
Cleanliness is of prime importance. Even a very small case cannot be completely filled without re-
particle of dirt can cause carburetor problems. Always use moving the plug.
fresh gasoline. Gum and varnish deposits tend to form in
gasoline stored for any length of time. Using sour fuel can
result in carburetor plugging, spark plug fouling and poor
performance.
Consistent Fuel Mixtures
The carburetor idle adjustment is sensitive to fuel mix-

ture variations which result from the use of different oils
and gasolines or from inaccurate measuring and mixing.
This could result in readjustment of the idle needle to
compensate for variations in the fuelloil mixture. To pre-
vent the necessity for constant readjustment of the carbu-
retor from one batch of fuel to the next, always be
consistent. Prepare each batch of fuel exactly the same as
the previous one.
Premixed fuel sold at some marinas is not recommended
for use. The quality and consistency of premixed fuel can
vary greatly. The possibility of engine damage resulting
from using an incorrect fuel mixture far outweighs the
convenience offered by premixed fuel. This is especially RESERVOIR
true if the marina uses alcohol or other additives in its fuel.
Lower Unit Lubrication
Replace the lower unit lubricant after the first 20 hours

of operation and every 100 hours of operation thereafter.
Check the lubricant level every 50 hours of operation and
fill as necessary.
The recommended lubricant for all models is OMC
Ultra-HPF gearcase lube. If Ultra-HPF gearcase lube is not
available, OMC Hi-Vis gearcase lube is an acceptable
substitute.
CAUTZON
Do not use regular automotive gear lube in
the lower drive unit. Its expansion and foam

~
3. Locate and remove the oil level plug and gasket. See A, 2. Cover the fill plug with a shop towel and carefully and
Figure 1,typical. slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any internal pressure
4. Locate and remove the drain/fill plug and gasket. See to vent before fully removing the plug.
B, Figure 1,typical. 3. The fluid level must be even with the bottom of the fill
plug hole. If necessary, add OMC Power TrimITilt y d
NOTE Power Steering Fluid or Dexron 11automatic transmission
If the lubricant is creamy in color (water fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the level
contamination) or if metallic particles are hole.
found, the gearcase must be completely dis- I
I
assembled and repaired before returning the CAUTION
unit to service. Do not ove@ll the unit. The oil level rises as
the unit is trimmed down and there must be
5. Allow the gearcase lubricant to drain completely. mom for the t h e m 1 expansion of the fluid
6. To refill, inject the recommended lubricant into the in the reservoir
drainlfill hole until the oil is even with the level plug hole.
4. Install the fill plug and tighten it securely. Then cycle
Without removing the lubricant tube or nozzle, install the
the outboard fully down and up several times to bleed any
level plug and gasket and tighten securely.
air that might be in the system. I
7. Remove the lubricant tube or nozzle and quickly install 5. Recheck the fluid level as described in Step 1 and Step
the drain/fill plug and gasket. Tighten both plugs to 84-86 2. Make sure the fill plug is tightened as follows when
in.-lb. (9.5-9.7 N-m) on all models. finished:
a. Conventional system-Tighten the fill plug to 45-50
Power Trim and Tilt Reservoir Fluid in.-lb. (5.1-5.7 N-m). 1
b. FasTrak system-Tighten the fill plug securely. ,

The fill plug is located on the reservoir. See Figure 2
(conventional system) or Figure 3 (FasTrak system).
1. Trim the outboard to the full UP position. Thoroughly
Power Steering Reservoir Fluid
I
clean the area around the fill plug. Check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir at
least once each season or after every 50 hours of operation.
The engine must be cold and in a vertical position.
1
1. With the engine cold and in avertical position, unsc
the fill plug and dipstick shown in Figure 4.
I
Power steering I
fill plugldipstick
I
I
\ I
I
I
I
152 CHAPTER FOUR
2. Insert the dipstick into reservoir hole (do not screw plug
into hole), then remove the dipstick.
BUSHINGS, BEARINGS
3. The oil level should be even with the groove in the
AND LINKAGE
dipstick.
4. If the oil level is low, pour OMC Power TrirnITilt and
Power Steering Fluid into the reservoir.
5. Recheck the fluid level, then if it's satisfactory, install
the fill plug.
Other Lubrication Points
Refer to Figures 5-13 for typical lubrication points.
CAUTION
When lubricating the steering cable on mod-
els so equipped, make sure its core is filly
retracted into the cable housing.Lubricating
the cable while extended can cause a hy-
draulic lock to occul:
LINKAGE CARBURETOR
AND SHIFT LINKAGE
@ POWER STEERING ROD S W m L BRACKET,

TlLT/TRlM LOCK, TILTIRUN LEVER
AND REVERSE LOCK
SHIFT SHAFT
AND LEVER FITTING
Shift lever
shaft and
swivel bracket
154 CHAPTER FOUR
Saltwater Corrosion of Gearcase Housing and

Propeller Shaft Bearing Housing/Nut
@ SWIVEL BRACKET,
Corrosion that is allowed to accumulate between the TILT LEVER AND SHAFT
gearcase housing and propeller shaft bearing housing can
eventually split the housing and destroy the lower unit
assembly. If the motor is used in saltwater, remove the
propeller and bearing housing (Figure 14) at least once per
year. Refer to Chapter Nine. Clean all corrosion deposits
and dried lubricant from the gearcase and bearing housing
assemblies. Lubricate the bearing housing, O-rings and
screw threads with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. In-
stall the bearing housing and tighten the screws to specifi-
cation (Chapter Nine).
STORAGE
The major consideration during preparation for storage
is to protect the outboard motor from rust, corrosion and
dirt or other contamination. The manufacturer recom-
mends the following procedure.
1. If the boat is equipped with a built-in fuel tank, add one
ounce of OMC 2+4 Fuel Conditioner to the fuel tank for I
each gallon of fuel tank capacity. Then, fill the tank with
the recommended fuel.
2. Operate the motor in a test tank, on the boat in the water
or with a flushing device connected to the lower unit. Start
the engine and run it at idle speed to allow the stabilized
fuel to circulate into the engine and carburetor(s).
3. Stop the engine after approximately five minutes.
4. Using a 6-gal. (22.7 L) remote fuel tank, prepare the
following storage mixture:
a. Add 5 gal. (19 L) of a recommended fuel.
b. Add 2 qt. (1.9 L) of OMC Storage Fogging Oil.
c. Add 1 pt. (0.5 L) of Evinrude or Johnson Outboard
Lubricant.
d. Add 1 pt. (0.5 L) of OMC 2+4 Fuel Conditioner.
5. Thoroughly blend the mixture in the remote fuel tank.
6. Connect the remote fuel tank to the outboard motor.
7. With the motor in a test tank, in the water or connected
to a flushing device, start the engine and run at 1500 rpm
for five minutes to be sure the fuel delivery system and
carburetor(s) contain stabilized fuel.
NOTE
On models equipped with variable ratio oil-
ing (VRO) do not disconnect the fuel hose
with the engine running in an attempt to run
the carburetors dry. When a low amount of
gasoline is supplied to the VROpump, afuel
mixture with a high oil-to-gasoline ratio is
created. The resulting mixture will cause
excessive oil consumption and diJgiculty re-
starting.
LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP
8. Stop the engine and disconnect the remote fuel tank. each cell should not be higher than 3/16 in. (4.8 mm)
9. Remove the spark plugs as described in this chapter. above the perforated baffles.
10. Spray a liberal amount of OMC Storage Fogging Oil d. Lubricate the terminal bolts with grease or petro-
through the spark plug holes into each cylinder. leum jelly.
11, Rotate the flywheel (or timing wheel) clockwise to
distribute the fogging oil throughout the cylinder(s). CAUTION
12. Remove the flushing device or remove the outboard A discharged battery can be damaged by
motor from the test tank or water. Rotate the flywheel or freezing.
timing wheel clockwise several revolutions to drain any
e. With the battery in a fully-charged condition (spe-
water from the water pump. If equipped with power steer-
ing, tilt the unit for at least five minutes so water can drain cific gravity at 1.260-1.275), store in a dry location
from oil cooler, then return unit to upright position. where the temperature will not drop below freezing.
13. Clean and regap, or replace the spark plugs. Do not f. Recharge the battery every 45 days or whenever the
reconnect the spark plug leads. specific gravity drops below 1.230.Before charging,
14. Drain and refill the gearcase as described in this cover the plates with distilled water, but not more
chapter. Check the condition of the level and drainlfillplug than 3/16 in. (4.8 mm) above the battery baffles. The
gaskets and replace as necessary. charge rate should not exceed 6 amps. Discontinue
15. Refer to Figures 5-13 and Table 1 as appropriate and charging when the specific gravity reaches 1.260 at
lubricate the motor at all specified points. 8W F (27" C )
16. Remove and check the propeller condition. Look for g. Before returning the battery to service, remove the
propeller shaft seal damage from fishing line. Clean and excess grease from the terminals, leaving a small
lubricate the propeller shaft with OMC Triple-Guard amount. Make sure the battery is fully charged prior
grease. Reinstall the propeller with a new cotter pin or to installation.
locking tab washer.
17. Clean all external parts of the motor with OMC All- COMPLETE SUBMERSION
Purpose Marine Cleaner and apply a good quality marine
polish. An outboard motor which is lost overboard must be
18. Store the outboard motor in an upright position in a recovered as quickly as possible. If lost in saltwater or
dry and well-ventilated location. freshwater containing sand or silt, disassemble and clean
19. Service the battery as follows: it immediately. Any delay will result in rust and corrosion
a. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery, first of internal components once it has been removed from the
the negative then the positive cable. water.
b. Remove all grease, corrosion or other contamination
If the motor was running when it was lost, do not attempt
from the battery surface.
to start it until it has been disassembled and checked.
c. Check the electrolyte level in each cell and fill with
distilled water as necessary. The electrolyte level in Internal components may be bent or out of alignment and
running the motor may cause severe damage.
Accomplish the following emergency steps immedi-
ately if the motor is recovered from freshwater.
CAUTION
I f if is not possible to disassemble and clean
the motor immediately, resubmerge it in
freshwater to prevent rust and corrosionfor-
mation until such time as it can be properly
serviced.
1. Remove the engine cover.

2. Remove the spark plugs as described in this chapter.
3. Unplug the ignition connectors between the stator as-
sembly and power pack.
4. Disconnect, drain and clean all fuel hoses.
5. Remove the carburetor float bowl drain screw(s) if so
equipped. See Chapter Six.
CHAPTER FOUR
6. Remove, drain and clean the VRO oil reservoir. Drain 4. Check sacrificial anodes and replace any that are less
and clean all contaminated oil hoses. than two-thirds their original size. To test for proper anode
7. Wash the outside of the motor with clean water to installation, proceed as follows:
remove weeds, mud and other debris. a. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1000 or hgh-ohm
scale.
CAUTION b. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine ground
If sand or silt has entered the power head or
and the remaining lead to the anode. If necessary,
gearcase, do not try to start the motor or
severe internal damage may occul: clean the anode to ensure a good contact. Low
resistance should be noted.
8. Drain as much water as possible from the power head c. If high resistance is noted, remove the anode and
by placing the motor in a horizontal position. Rotate the thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the anode
flywheel or timing wheel by hand with the spark plug holes and motor and the threads of the mounting screws.
facing downward. d. Reinstall the anode and retest as previously de-
scribed. If high resistance is still noted between the
CAUTION anode and motor, replace the anode.
Do notforce the motor if it does not turn over
freely. This may be an indication of internal
damage such as a bent connecting rod or
broken piston.
9. Pour clean engine oil into the cylinders through the

spark plug holes.
10. Remove and disassemble the carburetors as outlined
in Chapter Six.
11. Disassemble the electric starter motor and disconnect
all electrical connections. Wash with clean freshwater.
Spray all electrical components and connections with a
water displacing electrical spray and allow to dry. Reas-
semble the starter motor and reconnect all electrical con-
nections.
12. Reinstall the spark plug(s) and carburetor(s).
13. Mix a fresh tank of fuel at the ratio recommended for
the break-in period as outlined in this chapter.
14. Try to start the motor. If the motor will start, allow it
to run at least 30 minutes.
15. If the motor will not start, try to diagnose the cause,
then repair as necessary. If the engine cannot be started / Flush \ I-
within three hours, disassemble, clean and thoroughly oil / device \ J
all parts.
ANTICORROSION MAINTENANCE
1. Flush the cooling system with freshwater as described

in this chapter after each use in saltwater.Wash the exterior
with freshwater.
2. Dry the exterior of the motor and apply primer over any
paint nicks and scratches. Do not use antifouling paints
containing mercury or copper. Do not paint sacrificial
anodes or the trim tab.
3. Apply OMC Black Neoprene Dip to all exposed elec-
Garden
\ I u
trical connections except the positive tenninal on the
starter solenoid.
5. If the outboard is operated consistently in saltwater or procedure. It also e l k n a t e s the possibility of residual
polluted or brackish water, shorten the lubricationintervals water being trapped in the dnve shaft housing or other
stated in Table 1by one-half. passageways.
WARNNG
ENGINE FLUSHING When running the outboard motor on a
flushing device, always remove the propeller
to prevent serious personal injury from con-
Periodic engine flushing will prevent salt, sand or silt tact with the moving propellel:
deposits from accumulating in the water passageways.
Perform this procedure whenever an outboard motor is On some V6 and V8 models and all 60" V6 models, a
operated in saltwater or polluted or brackish water. flushing (Figure 15) is located on the rear of the 3
- port
- -
Position the outboard motor in its normal operating engine. On models so equipped, remove the water pump
position during and after the flushing process. This pre- indicator plug and attach a garden hose to the flushingport.
vents water from passing into the power head through the Models equipped with a flushing port can be flushed
drive shaft housing and exhaust ports during the flushmg without starting the engine; however, do not exceed 45 psi
(310 Wa) water pressure.
1A. Models so equipped-Remove the water pump indi-
cator plug from the flushing port (Figure 15). Attach a
suitable garden hose to the flushing port.
1B.All others-Attach the flushing device according to its
manufacturer's instructions.See Figure 16,typical. Attach
a suitable garden hose to the flushing device.
2. Open the water tap partially. Do not use full pressure.
3. Start the motor and run at approximately 1500 rpm.
4. Adjust the water flow so a slight loss of water around
the rubber cups of the flushing device is noted (except
flushing port models).
5. Check the motor to make sure water is being discharged
from the tell tale nozzle. If no water is being discharged,
stop the motor immediately then determine the cause of
the problem.
CAUTION
Flush the motor for at least $ve minutes if
used in saltwatel:
6. Flush the motor until the discharged water is clear, then

stop the motor.
7. After stopping the motor, close the water tap and re-
move the flushing device or disconnect the hose from the
flushing port.
POWER STEERING BELT TENSION
On models equipped with power steering, use the fol-

lowing procedure to adjust belt tension:
1. Loosen the idler housing pivot bolt nuts A, Figure 17.
2. Rotate the adjustment nuts B, Figure 18, on the adjust-
ment rod so belt tension is 25-30 lb. (11.3-13.6kg) meas-
ured at midpoint on the belt between the idler and flywheel
pulleys.
CHAPTER FOUR
3. Tighten the top pivot bolt nut to 108-132 in.-lb. (12.2- factorily tuned. Any compression problem discovered dur-
14.9N.m), then tighten the lower pivot bolt nut to the same ing the test must be corrected before continuing with the
torque. tune-up procedure.
4. Tighten the adjustment nuts to 108-132 in.-lb. (12.2- 1. Start the engine and warm it to normal operating tem-
14.9 N.m). perature.
5. Recheck belt tension. 2. Remove the spark plugs as described in this chapter.
3. Connect a compression tester to the top spark plug hole
TUNE-UP according to its manufacturer's instructions. See Figure
18.
A tune-up consists of a series of inspections, adjust- 4. Make sure the throttle is in the wide-open position, then
ments and parts replacement to compensate for normal crank the engine through at least four compression strokes.
wear and deterioration of outboard motor components. Record the gauge reading.
Regular tune-up is important to maintain sufficient power, 5. Repeat Step 3 and Step 4 on each remaining cylinder.
performance and economy. The manufacturer recom- The actual readings are not as important as the differences
mends tune-up service be performed every 6 months or 50 in readings between cylinders when interpreting the re-
hours of operation, whichever comes first. If subjected to sults. The lowest cylinder pressure should be at least 80%
limited use, tune the engine at least once per year. of the highest cylinder pressure. A variation of more than
Because proper outboard motor operation depends on a 15 psi (103.4 kPa) indicates a problem with the lower
number of interrelated system functions,a tune-up consist- reading cylinder, such as defective head gasket, worn or
ing of only one or two corrections will seldom give satis- sticking piston rings andlor scored pistons or cylinder
factory results. For best results, a thorough and systematic walls. On V4 and V6 cross flow motors, compare compres-
procedure of analysis and correction is necessary. sion readings from cylinders on the same bank, not cylin-
ders on opposite banks.
Prior to performing a tune-up, flush the outboard motor
If unequal or low compression is noted, pour a table-
as described in this chapter to check for satisfactory water
spoon of engine oil into the suspect cylinder and repeat
pump operation.
Step 3 and Step 4. If the compression increases sigmfi-
The tune-up process recommended by the manufacturer
cantly (10 psi 169 kPa] or more) the piston rings are worn
includes the following:
and should be replaced.
a. Compression test.
If evidence of overheating is noted (discolored or
b. Spark plug service.
scorched paint), but the compression test is normal, check
c. Lower unit and water pump check.
the cylinder(s) visually through the transfer ports for pos-
d. Fuel system service.
sible scoring. A cylinder can be slightly scored and still
e. Remove carbon deposits from combustion cham-
ber(~). deliver a relatively good compression reading. In such a
f. Ignition system service. case, it is also good practice to check the water pump and
g. Battery, starter motor and solenoid check, if so cooling system for possible causes of overheating.
equipped. If the outboard runs normally and the compression test
h. Inspect wiring harness. is acceptable, continue the tune-up procedure.
i. Engine synchronization and adjustment.
j . On-the-water performance test. Spark Plug Selection
Any time the fuel or ignition systems are adjusted or
require parts replacement, the engine timing, synchroniza- NOTE
tion and linkage adjustment must be checked. These pro- The manufacturer recommends using sur-
cedures are described in Chapter Five. Perform the face gap spark plugs if the outboard motor
synchronization and linkage adjustment procedure before is subjected to sustained high-speed opera-
running the performance test. tion.
Evinrude and Johnson outboard motors are equipped
Compression Test with Champion spark plugs selected for average use con-
ditions. Under severe operating conditions, the recom-
An accurate compression test gives an indication of the mended spark plug may foul or overheat. In such cases,
condition of the basic working parts of the engine. It is also check the ignition and carburetion systems to be sure they
an important first step in any tune-up, as a motor with low are operating correctly. If the ignition and fuel systems are
or uneven compression between cylinders cannot be satis- operating properly, replace the spark plug with one of a
LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP
hotter or colder heat range as required. Table 2 shows the Spark Plug Gapping (Conventional Gap Only)
recommended spark plugs for all models covered in this
manual. Carefully adjust the electrode gap on new spark plugs to
ensure reliable, consistent plug operation. Use a special
CAUTION spark plug tool with a round gauge to measure electrode
On 60" V4 and V6 models (OIS ignition), the gap. Figure 21 shows a common spark plug gapping tool.
use of suppression spark plugs is specijically 1. If necessary, install the spark plug's gasket onto the
recommended. Using nonsuppression spark plug. On some brands of plugs, the terminal end (Figure
plugs will result in erratic ignition system 22)must also be screwed onto the plug.
operation.
2. Insert the appropriate size gauge (Table 2) between the
plug electrodes. If the gap is correct, a slight drag will be
noted as the gauge is pulled through. If no drag is noted,
Spark Plug Removal or if the gauge will not pull through, bend the side elec-
trode with the gapping tool (Figure 23)to change the gap
CAUTION as necessary. Remeasure the gap after adjusting. I
When the spark plugs are removed, dirt sur-
rounding the base of the plugs can fall into CAUTION 1
the cylindel; causing serious engine damage. Never close the electrode gap by tapping the 1
plug on a solid sur$ace. Doing so can dam-

1. Blow any foreign material from around the spark plugs age the plug internally. Always use the gap- 1
using compressed air. ping tool to open or close the gap.

2. Disconnect the spark plug wires by twisting the wire
boot back and forth while pulling outward. Pulling on the Spark Plug Installation ,
wire instead of the boot will cause internai damage to the I
wire. Improper installation is a common cause of poor spark

3. Remove the spark plugs using an appropriate size spark plug performance in outboard motors. The gasket on t+
plug wrench or socket. Arrange the plugs in the order plug must be fully compressed against a clean plug seat
removed, so you know which cylinder they were removed for heat transfer to take place effectively. Therefore, the
from. correct plug tightening procedure must be followed. i
4. Examine each spark plug (Figure 19). Compare plug 1. Inspect the spark plug threads in the cylinder head add
condition with Figure 20.Spark plug condition can be an clean with a thread chaser if necessary. See Figure 24.
indicator of engine condition and warn of developing Thoroughly clean the spark plug seating area in the cylin-
trouble. der head prior to installing new plugs.
2. Screw each spark plug into the cylinder head by hanb,
5. Check the make and heat range of each spark plug. All until seated. If force is necessary to turn the plug, it may
should be of the same make and heat range. be cross threaded. Remove the plug and try again.
6. Discard the plugs. Although they could be cleaned and 3. Tighten the plugs using a suitable torque wrench to
reused if in good condition, the best tune-up results will be 18-21 ft.-lb. (24.5-28.6 N.m). If a torque wrench is not
obtained by installing new spark plugs. available, seat the plug finger-tight, then tighten an addi-
tional 114 turn with the appropriate size wrench.
4. Inspect each spark plug wire before reconnecting it. Tf
~
insulation is damaged or deteriorated, install a new wire.
Apply a light coat of OMC Triple-Guard grease to the
ribbed area of the plug ceramic insulator, then push the
wire onto the plug. Make sure the wire terminal is fully
seated on the plug. I
Lower Unit and Water Pump 1
A faulty water pump or one that performs poorly c v

result in extensive engine damage from overheating.
Therefore, it is good practice to replace the pump impell+,
160 CHAPTER FOUR
SPARK PLUG ANALYSIS

I (CONVENTIONAL GAP SPARK PLUGS) I
A. NormaCLight tan to gray color of insulator d. lmproper fuel-oil ratio.

indicates correct heat range. Few deposits are e. Induction manifold bleed-off passage
present and the electrodes are not burned. obstructed.
B. Core bridging--These defects are caused by f. Worn or defective breaker points.
excessive combustion chamber deposits D. Gap bridging--Similar to core bridging, except the
striking and adhering to the firing end of the combustion particles are wedged or fused between
plug. In this case, they wedge or fuse between the electrodes. Causes are the same.
the electrodeand core nose. They originate from E. Overheating-Badly worn electrodes and
the piston and cylinder head surfaces. Deposits premature gap wear are indicative of this problem,
are formed by one or more of the following: along with a gray or white "blistered" appearance
a. Excessive carbon in cylinder. on the insulator. Caused by one or more of the
b. Use of non-recommendedoils. following:
c. Immediate high-speed operation after a. Spark plug heat range too hot.
prolonged trolling. b. Incorrect propeller usage, causing engine to lug.
d. lmproper fuel-oil ratio. c. Worn or defective water pump.
C. Wet fouling-Damp or wet, black carbon coating d. Restricted water intake or restriction
over entire firing end of plug. Forms sludge in somewhere in the cooling system.
some engines. Caused by one or more of the F. Ash deposits or lead fouling-Ash deposits are light
following: brown to white in color and result from use of fuel
a. Spark plug heat range too cold. or oil additives. Lead fouling produces a yellowish
b. Prolongedtrolling. brown discoloration and can be avoided by using
c. Low-speed carburetor adjustment too rich. unleaded fuels.
seals and gaskets once per year or anytime the lower unit
is removed for service. See Chapter Nine.
Fuel Lines
1. Inspect all fuel hoses and lines for kinks, leaks, deterio-
ration or other damage.
2. Disconnectthe fuel lines and blow out with compressed
air to dislodge any contamination or foreign material.
3. Coat fuel line fittings sparingly with OMC Gasket
Sealing Compound then reconnect the lines.
Fuel Filter
A disposable, inline fuel filter is used on all models

except 60" V6 models. Service the filter as an assembly
and replace it once per year or sooner if contaminatedfuel
is encountered. In addition to the inline fuel filter, a fdter
screen is used on all models equipped with a diaphragm
fuel pump. The screen is located in the fuel pump, under
the filter cover. On 60" V4 and V6 models, a cartridgetype
fuel filter is installed in the fuel components bracket.
Remove and clean the filter once per year, or sooner if
contaminated fuel is encountered.
Inline &el filter
Refer to Figure 25, typical for this procedure.

1. Remove the clamps securing the fuel hoses to the filter.
2. Remove the hoses from the filter. Discard the filter.
3. Inspect the fuel hoses closely and replace as necessary.
4. Install the hoses on a new filter and clamp securely.
162 CHAPTER FOUR ~

I
Fuel pump filter screen
1. Remove the screw securing the filter cover to the pump

assembly (Figure 26).
2. Remove the filter screen from the filter cover (A, Fig-
ure 27) or pump housing (B).
3. Remove and discard the filter cover gasket.
4. Clean the screen using OMC Cleaning Solvent. Discard
the screen if it is excessively plugged.
5. Install the filter screen into the filter cover (A, Figure
27).
6. Reinstall the filter cover on the fuel pump, using a new
gasket. Tighten the cover screw securely.
7. Prime the fuel system with the primer bulb and check
the pump and fuel delivery system for leakage.
Cartridgefuel filter (60"V4 and V6 models)
1. Disconnect the air silencer cover retaining screws or

straps, then lift the air silencer cover off the power head.
2. Unscrew the fuel filter nut (Figure 28) and remove the
filter element (3, Figure 29) from the vapor separator
housing. If necessary, disconnect the fuel delivery hose
from the filter fitting.
3. Inspect the filter element and clean it using a mild
aerosol solvent. Dry with compressed air.
4. Inspect the filter gasket (2, Figure 29) and O-ring (D)
and replace if necessary.
5. Replace the filter element if excessive plugging or other
damage is noted.
6. Lightly lubricate the filter O-ring with clean engine oil.
Insert the filter element into the vapor separator housing
and tighten the filter nut securely. Pressurize the fuel
delivery system with the primary bulb to check for leakage.
7. Reinstall the air silencer cover. 1
Fuel Pump (Models without

Variable Ratio Oil Injection)
The fuel pump does not normally require service during

a routine tune-up; however, the fuel pump diaphragm is
fragile and a defective one often produces symptoms that
are misleading. A common malfunction results from a tiny
pinhole or crack in the diaphragm which allows fuel to
enter the crankcase. The additional fuel wet-fouls the spark
plug(s) at idle speed, causing hard starting and stalling at
low speed. The problem may disappear at higher speeds
because the fuel demand is greater at high speeds.
LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 163 1

I
Fuel Pump Pressure Test
Check fuel pump pressure by installing a pressure gauge

in the fuel hose between the fuel pump and carburetor(s).
See Figure 30. Perform the fuel pump test with the engine
running in a test tank with the correct test wheel installed
or on a boat in the water.
1. Loosen the fuel tank cap to relieve pressure inside the
tank. Note that the fuel tank must not be more than 24 in.
(61 cm) below the fuel pump.
2. Connect an accurate tachometer to the power head
according to its manufacturer's instructions.
3. Start the engine and observe the pressure gauge and
tachometer. Fuel pressure should be:
a. 1psi (6.9 kPa) at 600 rpm.
b. 1.5 psi (10.3 kPa) at 2500-3000 rpm.
c. 2.5 psi (17.2 kPa) at 4500 rpm.
4. If fuel pump pressure is low, first make sure the inline
FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY fuel filter and pump filter screen are clean. Disconnect the
(60"MODELS) fuel hose between the fuel tank and pump and clean it with
compressed air. If the filers or fuel hoses are not restricted
or plugged, repair or replace the fuel pump. See Chapter
Six.
Fuel Pump (ModelsEquipped

with Variable Ratio Oil Injection)
The VRO (variable ration oiling) oil injection system is

a combination fuel and oil pump assembly and is operated
4 3 2 1
1. Filter nut
2. Gasket
3. Filter element
2
4. O-ring
5. Clamp 1. Hose
6. Hose 2. T-fitting
3. Fabricated line
4. Pressure gauge
164 CHAPTER FOUR
by crankcase pulsations. See Chapter Eleven for testing 4. Check the harness connector for corrosion. Clean as
and service on the oil injection system. necessary.
5. If the harness is suspected of contributing to an electri-
cal malfunction, check all wires for continuity and exces-
Battery and Starter Motor Check
siveresistance between the harness connector and terminal
(Electric Start Models)
ends. Repair or replace the harness as necessary.
1. Check the battery state of charge. See Chapter Seven.
2. Connect a voltmeter between the starter motor positive
Removing Combustion Chamber Carbon
terminal and a good engine ground.
3. Crank the engine while noting the meter.
During operation, carbon deposits can accumulate on
a. If the meter indicates 9.5 volts or more but the starter
motor is inoperative, troubleshoot the starting sys- the piston(s), rings and exhaust ports causing decreased
tem as described in Chapter Three. performance and stuck piston rings. To prevent the forma-
tion of excessive deposits, the manufacturer recommends
b. If the voltage is less than 9.5 volts, recheck the
battery and connections. Charge the battery if nec- adding OMC Carbon Guard to each tankful of fuel. If
essary and repeat this test procedure. Carbon Guard is not used regularly, apply OMC Engine
Tuner to the engine at 50 hour intervals. Follow the instruc-
tions on the Engine Tuner container.
Starter Solenoid Check (Electric Start Models)
Test the starter solenoid as outlined in Chapter Three. Performance Test (On Boat)
Internal Wiring Harness Check Before performance testing the engine, make sure the
boat bottom is cleaned of all marine growth and that
1. check the wiring harness for frayed or chafed insula- excessive hook Or rocker is not present in the hull. See
tion. Repair as necessary. Figure 31. Any of these conditions will reduce perform-
2. Check for loose connections between the wires and ance considerably.
terminal ends. Test the boat with an average load and with the motor
3. Check the harness connector for bent electrical pins. tilted at an angle that will allow the boat to ride on an even
I HOOK
*
ROCKER
keel. If equipped with an adjustable trim tab, adjust it to ing range. A propeller with insufficient pitch will allow the
allow the boat to steer in either direction with equal ease. engine to overspeed.
Check the engine speed at wide-open throttle. If not For optimum results, adjust the idle mixture and idle
within the maximum speed range as specified in Chapter speed with the outboard running at idle speed in forward
Five, check the propeller pitch. A propeller with excessive gear, with the correct propeller installed and boat move-
pitch will not allow the engine to reach the correct operat- ment unrestrained.
Table 1 RECOMMENDED PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE'

, d
Component or Recommended OMC lubricant or

SY*~ procedure service manual reference
Lower gearcase
Lubricant level2 Check lubricant level Ultra HPF Gear Lube
Gear lubricant Change lubricant Ultra HPF Gear Lube
Drive shaft splines Remove gearcase and lubricate Moly Lube
Propeller shatt splines Remove propeller and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Water pump Replace impelle? Chapter Nine
Jet pump unit
Bearing housing Lubricate after each use EPMlheel Bearing grease
Mid-section
Swivel housing fittings Lubricate Triple Guard grease
Tilt tube fittings Lubricate Triple Guard grease
Clamp screws Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Engine cowl latches Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Tilt lock linkage Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Tilt lever shawstrap Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Reverse lock linkage Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Shilt linkages Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Steering arm link Clean and lubricate pivot points SAE 30 engine oil
Steering cableham Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Tiller handle Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Power Trim and Tilt
Lubricant Check fluid level Chapter Ten
M m ram ends Clean and lubricate Triple Guard grease
Power head
Electric starter motor Cleanllightly lubricate drive splines Starter Pinion lube
Fuel Filters Clean or replace all fuel filters Chapter Four
IgnRlon system Synchronizationllinkageadjustments Chapter Five
Fuel system Synchronizationllinkageadjustments Chapter Five
lhrottle/shift linkage Clean and lubricate all pivot points Triple Guard grease
Combustion chambers Remove carbon deposits Engine tuner
1. Perform only the items that apply to your specific model engine. Normal service Intervals are 100 hours or once a season,
unless otherwise noted. Cut the intervals in half for severe duty or saltwater applications (accelerated gear lubricant changes
are optional).
2. Recommendedinterval is every 50 hours or 30 days.
3. Replace the impeller annually or each time the gearcase is removed.
CHAPTER FOUR
Table 2 RECOMMENDED CHAMPION SPARK PLUGS'

I Model Standard Alternate I
90" V4 (cross-flow) QL82C L77JC4
90" V4 (loop-charged) QL78YC QLI~V'
60" V4 and V6 QL78YC QL77JC4
90" V6 and V8 QL78YC QL77JC4
1. Adjust the electrode gap on all conventional spark plugs to 0.030 in. (0.76 rnrn).
2. Use QL77JC4 plugs on oil-injected models.
Table 3 CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE VALUES

Outboard model Torque specification
90" V4 (cross-flow) 216-240 in.-lb. (24.7-27.1 N rn)
60" V4 and V6 (loop-charged) 240-264 in.-lb. (27.1-29.8 Nm)
90" V6 (loop-charged) 180-204 in.-lb. (20.3-23.1 N rn)
90" V4 and V8 (loop-charged) 216-240 in.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N rn)
Table 4 GEARCASE GEAR RATIO AND APPROXIMATE LUBRICANT CAPACITY

Outboard model Gear ratio Tooth count Lubricant capacity
V4 models
90" (cross-charged) 2:l 13:26 26 oz (769 rnl)
90" (loop-charged) 2.25:l 12:27 33 oz. (976 rnl)
60" (loop-charged)
Long shaft (20 in.) models 2:l 13:26 26 oz. (769 rnl)
Extra-long shaft
(25 in.) models 2.25:l 12:27 33 oz. (976 rnl)
V6 models
Standard ratio 1.86:l 14:26 33 oz. (976 rnl)
High-altitude ratio 2:l 13:26 33 oz. (976 rnl)
V8 models 1.76:l 17:30 71 oz. (2099 rnl)
65-105 jet models Not applicable
Table 5 TEST WHEEL (PROPELLER) RECOMMENDATIONS
I Model
85-115 hp (90" V4 cross-flow)
Standard rotation
OMC part No.
Counter-rotation
OMC part No. Minimum test RPM
1995 models 382861 - 5000

1996-1998 382861 - 4800
90 hp (60" V4)
Long shaft (20 in.) 382861 - 4500
115 hp (60" V4)
Long shaft (20 in.) 382861 - 4800
130 hp 387388 398673 5300
(continued)
Table 5 TEST WHEEL (PROPELLER) RECOMMENDATIONS (continued)

Standard rotation Counte~mtation
Model OMC part No. OMC part No. Minimum test RPM
150 hp 387388 398673 4500
175 hp 387388 398673 4800
200and225hp 436080 or 396277 436081 or 398674 5000
250and300hp 396277 398674 5500
65105 jet models Not applicable

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Five
Engine Synchronization
and Linkage Adjustments
If an engine is to deliver its maximum efficiency and turer may change adjustment specifications
peak performance, the ignition must be correctly timed during production. The timing and fie1 sys-
and the carburetor operation synchronized with the igni- tem adjustment specifications listed in this
tion. This procedure should always be the final step of chapter may not represent these changes.
tune-up. It must also be performed whenever the fuel or ig-
For all 1998-2002 models, refer tot he EPA
certification plate mounted near the model
nition systems are serviced or adjusted. identification plate o n the engine
Procedures for engine synchronization and linkage ad- midsection,for sparkplug specifications, ig-
justment on Johnson and Evinrude outboard motors differ nition timing and idle speed specifications.
according to model and ignition system. This chapter is di-
vided into self-contained sections dealing with particular REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
modelslignition systems for fast and easy reference.
Each section specifies the appropriate procedure and se- Dynamic engine timing adjustments require the use of a
quence to follow and provides the necessary tune-up data. stroboscopic timing light connected to a spark plug wire.
Read the general information at the beginning of the chap- See Figure 1. While the engine is cranked or operated, the
ter and then select the section pertaining to your outboard.
Tables 1-4 are located at the end of this chapter.
ENGINE TIMING
AND SYNCHRONIZATION
Ignition timing advance and throttle opening must be

synchronized to occur at the proper time for the engine to
perform properly. Synchronizing is the process of timing
the carburetor operation to the ignition spark advance.
CAUTION
To comply with U.S. Environment Protection
Agency (EPA) reuglations, established un-
der the Federal Clean Air Act, the manufac-
ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS 169
light flashes each time the spark plug fires. When the light An accurate shop tachometer (not the boat's tachometer)
is pointed at the moving flywheel, the mark on the flywheel must be used to determine engine speed during idle and
appears to stand still. When the timing is correctly ad- high-speed adjustments.
justed, the specified mark on the flywheel or timing wheel
is aligned with the stationary timing pointer on the engine. CAUTION
Never operate the engine without cooling
A simple tool, called a throttle shaft amplifier, can be water circulating through the gearcase to the
made with an alligator clip and a length of stiff wire (a power head. Running the motor without
paper clip will do). This tool is designed to be attached to water will damage the waterpump and cause
the throttle shaft and exaggerate throttle shaft movement. the power head to overheat.
This makes it easier to determine the exact instant the
throttle shaft begins to move. Figure 2 shows the tool Some form of water supply is required whenever the
installed. The tool is especially useful on engines where motor is operated during the procedure. Using a test tank
the throttle cam and cam follower are partially hidden by is the most convenient method, although the procedures
the flywheel. To make the tool, enlarge the alligator clip's may be carried out with the boat in the water.
gripping surface by grinding out the front teeth and secure
CAUTION
the wire to the end of the clip. See Figure 3.
Do not use aflushing device to provide water
during synchronization and linkage adjust-
ment. Without the exhaust backpressure of a
submerged engine, the engine will run lean.
The proper test wheel must be used to apply
a load on the propeller shaft or the power
head can be damagedfrom excessive engine
speed.
Follow the step-by-step synchronizing and adjusting

procedures in the exact sequence given to produce smooth,
consistent idle speed and optimum performance through-
out the engine speed range.
65 JET, 80 JET (1995-1997) AND 85-115 HP

(90" V4 CROSS FLOW MODELS)
Disconnect both remote control cables (except tiller

handle models) prior to continuing with the synchronizing
and adjusting procedure.
THROTTLE SHAFT
Timing Pointer Alignment
TOOL CONSTRUCTION
Use the following procedure to checkladjust the align-
ment of the timing pointer with top dead center of the No.
1 (top) piston.
1. Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark
plugs.
2. Loosen the timing pointer mounting screw, move the
pointer to the center of its adjustment slot and retighten the
screw.
3. Turn the flywheel in a clockwise direction until the
TDC mark on the flywheel is approximately 1-112in. (38.1
mm) past the timing pointer.
4. Install OMC Piston Stop Tool (part No. 384887) into
the No. 1 spark plug hole. Screw the tool into the plug hole
until bottomed, then turn the tool plunger inward until it
170 CHAPTER FIVE
contacts the piston. Secure the plunger in place with the

lockring. See Figure 4.
5. Hold the No. 1 piston finnly against the piston stop tool
by turning the flywheel. While holding the flywheel, place
a mark on the flywheel directly adjacent to the timing
pointer. Label the mark A See Figure 5.
6. Rotate the flywheel in a clockwise direction until the
No. 1 piston contacts the piston stop tool again. Hold the
flywheel so the piston is against the tool, then place another
mark on the flywheel adjacent to the timing pointer. Label
this mark B. See Figure 5.
7. Remove the piston stop tool.
8. Measure the distance between marks A and B using a
flexible scale. Place a mark on the flywheel at the mid- Timing
pointer
point between A and B and label this mark C. See Figure
5.
9. If mark C is in alignment with the TDC mark cast in the
flywheel, the timing pointer is properly adjusted. If not,
turn the flywheel as necessary to align mark C with the
timing pointer. While holding the flywheelin this position,
loosen the timing pointer screw and move the pointer into
alignment with the TDC mark cast in the flywheel. Tighten
the pointer screw securely.
10. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Throttle Cable Adjustment

(Tiller Handle Models)
1. Turn the idle speed control knob on the tiller handle to

the fully counterclockwise (SLOW) position.
2. Make sure the throttle cable mounting bracket is affixed
to the power head in the front mounting hole.
3. Back out the idle speed screw (Figure 6) and the
wide-open stop screw (Figure 7).
4. Turn the tiller twist grip to the wide-open throttle posi- 7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to check adjustment.
tion and check the clearance (Figure 8) between the roller
and the end of the slot in the throttle lever. The clearance
(Figure 8) should be approximately 114 in. (6.3 mm). Throttle Valve Synchronization
5. Turn the tiller twist grip to the idle position and check The carburetor throttle valves must be synchronized to
the 9, between the and the Other
open and close simultaneously.The engine will idle poorly
end of the slot in the throttle lever. The clearance (Figure if all throttle valves are not fully closed at idle.
9) should be approximately 114 in. (6.3 mm).
1. Remove the air silencer cover.
6. To adjust the clearance, loosen the locknut and turn the
thumb wheel on the throttle cable as necessary to obtain NOTE
the specified clearance. See Figure 10. The throttle cam must not be in contact with
the cam follower during this procedure.
@ 2. Loosen the throttle cam follower adjustment screw (A,

Figure 11).Move the cam follower away from the throttle
cam.
Throttle lever
172 CHAPTER FIVE
3. Loosen the adjusting lever screw (B, Figure 11) on the

lower carburetor. Rotate the throttle shafts partially open,
then allow them to snap back to the closed position. Apply
a slight downward pressure on the adjusting link tab to
remove any backlash and tighten the adjustment screw.
4. Move the cam follower while watching the throttle
valves. If the throttle valves do not start to move at exactly
the same time, repeat Steps 2-4.
Cam Follower Pickup

1. Connect a throttle shaft amplifier to the top carburetor
throttle shaft.
2. While observing the throttle shaft amplifier, slowly rotate
the throttle cam. As the amplifier just begins to move, the
embossed mark on the cam (A, Figure 12) should align with
the center of the cam follower (B, F'igure 12).
3. If adjustment is necessary loosen the cam follower
adjustment screw (Figure 13). Make sure the throttle
valves are fully closed, then hold the cam follower in
contact with the throttle cam and in alignment with the
embossed mark, then retighten the cam follower screw
(Figure 13).
4. Repeat Step 2 to check adjustment.
Maximum Spark Advance

NOTE
To load the outboard motor properly when
adjusting maximum spark advance, the out-
board must be in a test tank or on a boat in
the water with the correct test wheel in-
stalled. Do not attempt to adjust the m i -
mum timing with a propeller installed. Do
not run the outboard at wide-open throttle
while connected to aflushing d&ice.
1. If removed, install the spark plugs as described in

Chapter Four.
2. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top starboard) spark
plug wire.
4. Start the engine and warm to normal operatingtempera-
ture.
5. Shift into FORWARD gear, then run the motor at a
minimum of 5000 rpm with the timer base fully advanced.
6. Check the timing mark position with the timing light.
Maximum advance timing should be within 27-29" BTDC.
7. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the locknut at the
front of the spark control rod retainer (Figure14, typical).
Rotate the thumb wheel at the retainer as necessary to
obtain the specified timing. Turning the top of the thumb
ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATIONAND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS 173

I
I
wheel toward the power head advancesthe timing. Turning 5. Tighten the locknut securely and repeat Step 3 to check^
the top of the thumb wheel away from the power head adjustment.
I
retards the timing. I
8. Tighten the locknut and repeat Steps 4-6 to check

adjustment.
Wide-Open Throttle Stop
1. With the motor not running, open the throttle to the^
wide-open position. With the throttle wide open, the car-
Cam Follower Pickup Timing
buretor throttle shaft roll pins should be exactly vertical. I,
1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 (top starboard) spark 2. If the roll pins are not vertical, loosen the wide- open^
plug wire. stop screw locknut (A, Figure 16) and adjust the stop screw I
2. Start the motor. @, Figure 16) as required to position the roll pins vertical ~
3. Move the spark advance lever until the e m b o s s e d when the throttle is wide open. I
the throttle cam is aligned with the center of the cam follower. 3. Tighten the locknut securely and repeat Step 1to check^
At this point, the timing light should indicate 3-5" BTDC. adjustment.
i
4. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the locknut (A, Fig-
ure 15) and turn the thumb wheel @, Figure 15) as Idle Speed Adjustment i
necessary to obtain the specified pickup timing. Turn the
top of the thumb wheel toward the power head to retard Adjust idle speed with the outboard mounted on a boat'
pickup timing and away from the power head to advance in the water, running at normal operating temperature inl
pickup timing. FORWARD gear, with the correct propeller installed and,
the boat's movement unrestrained. I
facturer's instructions. i
2. Start the outboard and warm to normal operating tem- ~
perature.
3. Shift into FORWARD gear and note the idle speed. Idle
speed should be 600-700 rpm (in gear). ~
~
I
I
WARNING I
Do not attempt to adjust ldle speed with the

motor running. Contact with the mtatingjly-
1
wheel can result in serious personal injury.
4. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor and turn the1
idle speed screw (Figure 17) clockwise to increase idlei
speed or counterclockwise to decrease idle speed.
CHAPTER FIVE
5. Start the engine and repeat Step 3 to check adjustment. 4. While rotating the propeller shaft, shift the gearcase
6. Install the remote control cables (except tiller handle into FORWARD gear.
models) as described in this chapter. 5. Install the shift cable onto the shift lever pin and secure
with the washer and nut. Tighten the nut securely.
Shift Lever Detent (Tiller Handle Models) NOTE
I f insuficient threads are present for adjust-
1. Place the shift lever in the NEUTRAL position. ment in Step 6, check shifi rod height as
2. If the lower detent spring is not completely engaged in outlined in Chapter Nine.
the shift lever detent notch (Figure IS), loosen the detent
spring screw. Move the spring until it fully engages the 6. Pull the cable firmly to remove any slack, then adjust
notch, then tighten the screw securely. the cable trunnion to fit into the cable anchor pocket.
7. Install the cable trunnion into the anchor pocket. Install
the anchor pocket cover and screw. Tighten the screw to
Install/Adjust Remote Control Cables 60-84 in.-lb. (7-9 N-m).
Throttle cable
1. Extend the throttle cable and lubricate it with OMC
Triple-Guard Grease. Apply Triple-Guard to both cable
anchor pockets on the power head.
2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control
assembly is in the down position.
3. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the remote
control handle from the NEUTRAL position to the FOR-
WARD detent, then halfway back to the NEUTRAL posi-
tion.
4. Push the throttle lever firmly against its stop.
5. Connect the throttle cable casing guide to the throttle
lever using the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut
securely.
6. Pull on the throttle cable to remove any slack, then place
the trunnion nut into its anchor pocket.
7. Temporarily install the anchor pocket cover and screw.
NOTE
I f throttle cable adjustment is too loose, the
idle speed may be excessive or inconsistent.
I f cable adjustment is too tight, throttle and
shift control effort may be excessive.
8. Move the remote control handle to the FORWARD gear

position, then pull it back slowly to NEUTRAL. Make sure
the idle speed screw is against its stop. If not, remove cable
backlash by adjusting the throttle cable trunnion nut (Fig-
ure 19).
Shift cable
1. Extend the shift cable and lubricate with OMC Triple-

Guard Grease.
2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control
assembly is in the down position.
3. Place the remote control lever in the NEUTRAL posi-
tion, then move the lever to the FORWARD gear position.
8. Shift the remote control to the NEUTRAL position.

9. Temporarily remove the shift cable and confirm that the
gearcase is still in its NEUTRAL detent. If the gearcase is
in NEUTRAL, reattach the shift cable to the shift lever.
Secure the cable using the washer and nut.
10. If the gearcase is not completely in the NEUTRAL
detent, repeat Step 6 as necessary.
WARNING
Be certain the remote control cables are
attached to the correct levers. To check, lift
thefast idle lever on the remote control while
observing the throttle lever on the power
head. I f the cables are correctly installed, the
throttle cable and lever on the power head
will move when the fast idle lever is lified.
SO JET (1998), 105 JET, 90, 115, 150

AND 175 HP (60" V4 AND V6 MODELS)
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle arm and

remove the cable from the trunnion pocket prior to begin-
ning the synchronizing and adjustment procedure.
Use the following procedure to check/adjust the align-

1 (top) piston.
1. Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark
plugs.
2. Remove the three screws holding the timing wheel
cover. Lift the cover off of the power head.
3. Loosen the timing pointer (A, Figure 20) mounting
screw. Move the pointer to the center of its adjustment slot
then retighten the mounting screw.
CAUTION
Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direc-
tion only. Counterclockwise rotation may
damage the water pump impellel:
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwiseuntil the TDC mark on
the timing wheel is approximately 1in. (25.4 mrn) past the
timing pointer. Rotate the crankshaftby turning the timing
wheel (B, Figure 20) using an appropriate size wrench or
socket as shown in Figure 21.
5. Install OMC Piston Stop Tool (part No. 384887) into
the No. 1 spark plug hole. Screw the tool into the plug hole
until bottomed, then turn the tool plunger inward until it
contacts the piston. Secure the plunger in place with the
lockring. See Figure 22, typical.
6. Hold the No. 1piston firmly against the piston stop tool
by turning the timing wheel. While holding the timing
176 CHAPTER FIVE
wheel, place a mark on the timing wheel directly adjacent 4. Make sure the throttle cam (E, Figure 25) and cam
to the timing pointer. Label the mark A. See Figure 23, follower O are not touching.
typical. 5. Loosen (but do not remove) the carburetor link screw
7. Continue turning the crankshaft in a clockwise diiec- (Figure 26).
tion until the No. 1 piston contacts the piston stop tool 6. Loosen the throttle shaft connector screws (one each
again. Hold the timing wheel so the piston is against the side on V4, two each side on V6) using a 9/64 in. Allen
tool, then place another mark on the timing wheel adjacent wrench. Do not remove the screws from the connectors.
to the timing pointer. Label this mark B. See Figure 23, See Figure 27 (port) and Figure 28 (starboard).
typical. 7. Looking into the carburetors, make sure all throttle
8. Remove the piston stop tool. valves are fully closed. Apply light pressure to the throttle
9. Using the timing marks molded in the timing wheel, valves to ensure they are fully closed, then tighten the
determine the midpoint between marks A and B. Place a throttle shaft connector screws (Figure 27 and Figure 28).
mark on the timing wheel at the midpoint between A and
B and label this mark C. See Figure 23, typical.
10. If mark C is in alignment with the TDC mark cast in
the timing wheel, the timing pointer is properly adjusted.
If not, turn the timing wheel clockwise to align mark C
with the timing pointer. While holding the timing wheel in
this position, loosen the timing pointer screw and move the
pointer into alignment with the TDC mark cast in the
timing wheel. Tighten the pointer screw securely.
11. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Throttle Valve Synchronization
The carburetor throttle valves must be synchronized to

open and close simultaneously. The engine will idle poorly
if all throttle valves are not fully closed at idle.
1. Disconnect the four air silencerretaining straps (Figure
24) and slide the air silencer off the power head.
2. Loosen (but do not remove) the spark lever screw (B,
Figure 25).
3. Push the spark lever roller (C, Figure 25) rearward.
8. While holding the throttle linkage in position, securely

tighten the carburetor link screw (Figure 26).
9. Do not retighten the spark lever screw (B, Figure 25)
at this point.
Idle Timing
The following idle timing procedure should provide the

optimum idle quality within a range of 600-700 rpm (in
gear), depending on the propeller used. If idle speed is too
high after adjusting the timing, check the induction system
for air leakage and repair as necessary. If idle speed is too
slow, advance idle timing in small increments until the
desired idle speed is obtained.
OMC Ignition Analyzer (Figure29) from the OMC Test
Kit (part No. 434017) is required to perform timing adjust- 1
ments on the 60" V4 and V6 motors.
1. Remove the voltage regulatorlrectifier cover.
2. Disconnect the timing sensor connector (Figure 30)
from the sensor.
CHAPTER FIVE
3. Connect OMC Ignition Analyzer to the timing sensor. 6. Disconnect the ignition analyzer from the timing sen-
Move the analyzer selector switch to position A for 150 sor. Reconnect the timing sensor connector to the sensor.
and 175 hp units or position B for 80 jet, 105 jet, 90 and Reinstall the voltage regulatorlrectifier cover.
115 hp units. Connect the analyzer to a fully charged
12-volt battery.
Throttle Pickup Point
4. Loosen the timer base detent screw (Figure 31).
5. Move the outer (A, Figure 32) and inner (B) detent tabs 1. Make sure the spark lever screw (B, Figure 25) is loose.
completely to the front of the detent plate. Make sure the 2. Move the spark lever (A, Figure 33) and throttle link-
timer base lever is contacting its stop on the flywheelcover. age (B) toward the rear of the motor.
6. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing pointer 3. Slowly move the spark lever (A, Figure 33) forward
is aligned with the 6" ATDC mark on the timing wheel. until the roller (C) just contacts the spark cam (D). Hold
Hold the timing wheel in this position. the spark lever in this position.
7. Hold the inner detent plate in position against the stop 4. Next, slowly move the throttle linkage forward until the
and move the detent plate forward until the CYL light on throttle cam (E, Figure 25) just contacts the throttle cam
the analyzer goes off. follower (F).
8. Mark the location of the inner detent tab on the detent 5. Securely tighten the spark lever screw (B, Figure 25)
plate. without disturbing the position of any linkage.
9. Do not tighten the timer base detent screw or sparklever 6. Move the linkage rearward, then forward to check
screw at this time. Do not disconnect the OMC Ignition adjustment. The timer base and carburetor linkage should
Analyzer from the timing sensor. start to move at exactly the same time. If not, repeat Steps
1-5.
7. Install the timing wheel cover and the air silencer.
Maximum Spark Advance
1. Make sure the spark lever screw (B, Figure 25) is loose.
2. Move the spark lever roller (C, Figure 25) to the
wide-open throttle position.
3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing pointer
is aligned with 20" BTDC mark on the timing wheel. Hold
the timing wheel in this position.
4. Move the outer detent tab (A, Figure 32) rearward on
the detent plate until the CYL light on the analyzer goes
off. Make sure the inner detent tab (B, Figure 32) is still
aligned with the mark (made previously), then securely
tighten the timer base detent screw (Figure 31).
5. Move the spark lever back to the idle position.

~
8. Install the spark plugs. If cable adjustment is too tight, throttle and
9. Install the throttle cable as outlined in this chapter. shi@ control effortmay be excessive.
1. Extend the throttle cable and lubricate it with OMC I
Throttle Cable Installation/Adjustment Triple-Guard Grease. Apply Triple-Guard to both cable

NOTE 2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control
I f throttle cable adjustment is too loose, the assembly is in the down position.
idle speed may be excessive or inconsistent. 3. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the remote
WARD detent, then halfway back to the NEUTRAL posi-
tion.
4. Remove the timing wheel cover. Make sure the timer
base lever is contacting the flywheel cover stop.
SPEED CONTROL LINKAGE lever using the washer and cotter clip.
(1995 130 HP) 6. Pull on the throttle cable to remove any slack, then place
the trunnion nut into its anchor pocket.
7. Install the cable retainer and screw. Tighten the screw
to 60-84 in.-lb. (7-9 N-m).
1 2 3 position, then pull it back slowly to NEUTRAL. Make sure
the timer base lever contacts its stop on the flywheel cover.
If not, remove backlash by adjusting the throttle cable
trunnion nut.

Use the following procedure to checWadjust the align-
1 (top) piston.
9 8 7 6 10 5 Refer to Timing Pointer Alignment under 65 jet, 80 jet
and 85-115 hp (90"V4 crossflow models) in this chapter.
1. Throttle cam Throttle Valve Synchronization

2. Mark
3. Cam follower The carburetor throttle valves must be synchronized to
adjusting screw open and close simultaneously.The engine will idle poorly
4. Idle timing screw if all throttle valves are not fully closed at idle.
(under flywheel)
5. Carburetor link
NOTE
adjustment screws
6. Wide-open throttle The throttle cam and the throttle cam fol-
index mark lower must not be touching during this pro-
7. Throttle cam follower cedure.
8. Adjustment knob
9. Lockring 1. Loosen the throttle cam follower adjusting screw (3,
10. Carburetor link Figure 34) and move the c m follower away from the
throttle cam.
2. Back out the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 35) four
full turns.
3. Loosen the two carburetor link adjustment screws (5,
fi Figure 34) not more than 1/2 turn.
CHAPTER FIVE
4. Next, turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 35) Throttle Cable Installation and Adjustment
clockwise until the throttle valves on the port side carbu-
retors just start to open. Then back out the screw just NOTE
enough to close the throttle valves. Lightly press on the If throttle cable adjustment is too loose, the
throttle valves to ensure they are closed. idle speed may be excessive or inconsistent.
If cable adjustment is too tight, throttle and
5. While holding the carburetor link (10, Figure 34) shift control effort may be excessive.
against the stop screw, securelytighten the two link adjust-
ment screws (5). 1. Extend the throttle cable and lubricate it with OMC
6. Open and close the throttle while observing the carbu- Triple-Guard Grease. Apply Triple-Guard to both cable
retor throttle valves. The port and starboard throttle valves anchor pockets on the power head.
must open and close at exactly the same time. 2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control
7. If adjustmentis required, loosen the two carburetor link assembly is in the down position.
adjustment screws (5, Figure 34) not more than 112 turn. 3. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the remote
Turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 35) in or out control handle from the NEUTRAL position to the FOR-
as necessary. Then repeat Steps 5 and 6. WARD detent, then halfway back to the NEUTRAL posi-
8. Do not tighten the throttle cam follower adjusting screw tion.
(3, Figure 34) at this point.
Throttle Cam Follower Pickup Point

1. Make sure the throttle cam follower adjusting screw is
loose.
2. Loosen the lockring (9, Figure 34) and rotate the ad-
justment knob (8) counterclockwise until no internal
spring tension is noted.
3. Move the throttle cam follower (7, Figure 34) into
contact with the throttle cam (1).
4. While holding the cam follower against the cam, adjust
the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure 36) until the mark
(2, Figure 34) on the cam is aligned with the center of the
cam follower roller. Securely tighten the cam follower
adjustment screw when the proper alignment is obtained.
5. Next, turn the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure 36)
one full turn counterclockwise to create the correct clear-
ance between the throttle cam and cam follower.
Wide-Open Throttle Stop Adjustment
1. Loosen the locknut securing the wide-open throttle stop

screw.
2. With the engine not running, advance the throttle to the
wide-open position.
3. With the throttle wide-open, adjust the wide-open throt-
tle stop screw (B, Figure 36) so the index mark (6, Figure
34) on the throttle cam is facing directly forward and is
perpendicular to the air silencer base.
4. Retighten the locknut securely while holding the stop
screw.
ENGINE SYNCHRONIZATION AND LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS 181 1

4. Push the throttle lever firmly against its stop. with the rotatingflywheel can result in seri- 1
5. Connect the throttle cable casing guide to the throttle ous personal injury. I
lever using the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut I
securely. 6. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor. Loosen thp

6. Pull on the throttle cable to remove any slack, then place locknut and turn the maximum advance screw (C, ~iguI?e
the trunnion nut into its anchor pocket. 36) clockwise to retard or counterclockwise to advance
7. Install the cable retainer and screw. Tighten the screw timing as necessary. One full turn of the screw equal6
to 60-84 in.-lb. (7-9 N.m). approximately loof timing change. 1
8. Move the remote control handle to the FORWARD gear 7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to check adjustment.
the idle speed screw is against its stop. If not, remove cable
backlash by adjusting the throttle cable trunnion nut.
Idle Timing Adjustment I
I
1
The following idle timing procedure should provide
i
Maximum Spark Advance optimum idle quality within a range of 575-700 rpm (d
gear), depending on the propeller used. If idle speed is to^
NOTE
high after adjusting the timing, check the induction systeq I
for air leakage and repair as necessary. If idle speed is too
adjusting maximum spark advance, the out- slow, advance idle timing in small increments until thf
board must be in a test tank or on a boat in desired idle speed is obtained. I
the water with the correct test wheel in- i

stalled. Do not attempt to adjust the maxi- CAUTION
mum timing with a propeller installed. Do Perform the following procedure with the
not run the outboard at wide-open throttle outboard motor in a test tank with the correct
while connected to a flushing device. test wheel installed, or mounted on a boat in i1
the water with the correct propeller in- i
1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire. stalled. Do not attempt the idle timing ad- I
2. Connect an accurate tachometer to the motor according justments with the outboard running on a
to its manufacturer's instructions. 1
flushing device. i
3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating tempera-
ture. 1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
4. Shift into FORWARD gear and advance the throttle to
4500-5000 rpm.
5. Check the timing mark position with the timing light.
2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu
3. Loosen the lockring (9, Figure 34). Then turn the
i
Maximum spark advance should be 17-19" BTDC. lockring and adjustment knob (8) clockwise until fully
I
bottomed. I ,
WARNING
Do not attempt to adjust the spark advance 4. Start the motor and warm to normal operating tempera1
with the nwtor running in Step 6. Contact ture. Engine temperature must be above 96" F (35.6" C)JI
to perform this procedure. I
5. Shift into FORWARD gear. With the motor at idle
speed, in FORWARD
timing light.
check the timing with th
6. Idle timing should be 6-10" ATDC.
WARNING
1~ !
Do not attempt to adjust ignition timing with ~
I
the motor running in Step 7. Contact with the
moving flywheel can result in serious per- ~
sonal injury.
7. If adjustmentis necessary, stopthe engine. urn the idld

1
timing screw (Figure 37) clockwise to advance or couni
terclockwise to retard idle timing. I
8. Next, start the motor and place the remote control leve '
into the FORWARD detent position. I
182 CHAPTER FIVE.
9. Adjust the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure 36) to 3. Loosen the two carburetor linkadjustmentscrews (Fig-
obtain 950 rpm. ' ure 40) no more than one-half turn.
10. Without moving the throttle arm position, stop the 4. Turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 39) clock-
motor and turn the adjustment knob (8, Figure 34) coun- wise until the throttle valves on the port carburetors just
terclockwise until the timer base just begins to move. begin to open, then back out the screw just enough to close
Tighten the lockring (9, Figure 34) securely against the the throttle valves.
adjustment knob. 5. While holding the carburetor link against the link stop
11. With the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure 36) seated screw, tighten the two link adjustment screws (Figure 40).
against the crankcase, rotate the stop screw counterclock-
wise until the throttle cam index mark (2, Figure 34) 6. Remove the air silencer and check operation of the
intersects the center of the cam follower roller (7). Con- throttle valves. Allcarburetorthrottle valves must open and
tinue to turn the stop screw (A, Figure 36) one complete close at exactly the same time. If not, loosen the carburetor
turn counterclockwisefrom this point. link adjustment screws (Figure 40) one-half turn maxi-
mum. Then turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 39)
NOTE in or out as necessary.
After performing the previous adjustments,
the outboard motor should idle between 575-
700 rpm in FORWARD geal: In addition, the 200,225,250 and 300 hp
throttle camfollower roller should not touch
the throttle cam when the remote control is The carburetor throttle valves must be synchronized to
in the NEUTRAL position. Refer to Throttle open and close simultaneously. The engine will idle poorly
Cam Pickup Point in this chapter if incorrect if all throttle valves are not fully closed at idle.
adjustment is noted.
130 HP (1996) AND 200, 225, 250

AND 300 HP (1995 AND 1996)

remove from the trunnion pocket before proceeding with
the synchronizing and adjusting procedure.
Use the following procedure to check/adjust the align-

1 (top) piston.
Refer to Eming Pointer Alignment under 65 jet, 80 jet
(1995-1997)and 85-115 hp (90" V4 crossj7ow models)in
this chapter.

open and close simultaneously. The engine will idle poorly
1. Loosen the throttle cam follower screw (A, Figure 38,
typical) and move the cam follower (C) away fromthe cam.
The cam (B, Figure 38) and follower (C) must not be
touching during this procedure.
2. Turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 39) coun-
terclockwise four full turns.
1. Loosen the throttle cam follower screw (A, Figure 38, screw on the starboard throttle shaft connector (B, Figure
typical) and move the cam follower (C) away fromthe cam. 41). 1
The cam (B, Figure 38) and follower (C) must not be 6. Apply light pressure to the carburetor throttle valves to
touching during this procedure. ensure they are fully closed. Tighten the starboard throttle
2. Turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 39) coun- shaft connector screw, then the port throttle shaft connector
terclockwise four full turns. screw. I
3. Loosen the two carburetor linkadjustment screws (Fig- 7. Make sure all throttle valves are fully closed, then
ure 40) no more than one-half turn. tighten the starboard throttle shaft connector screw, then
the port throttle shaft connector screw.
4. Remove the air silencer cover and baffle. 8. Turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure 39) clock-
5. Loosen (but do not remove) the bottom screw on the wise until the throttle valves on the ~ o rcarburetors
t iust
port throttle shaft connector (A, Figure 41) and the top begin to open. Then back out the screwjust enough to close
the throttle valves.
9. While holding the carburetor link against the link stop
screw, tighten the two link adjustment screws (Figure 40).
10. Open and close the throttle while observing the throt-
tle valves. All carburetor throttle valves must open and
close at exactly the same time. If not, loosen the carburetor
link adjustment screws (Figure 40) a maximum of one-
half turn. Then turn the carburetor link stop screw (Figure
39) in or out as necessary.
Throttle Cam Pickup Point I
1. Make sure the throttle cam follower screw (A, Figure I

38) is loose. I
2. Hold the throttle cam follower against the throttle cam

and adjust the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure 36) until
the mark (E, Figure 38) on the throttle cam is aligned with
the center of the cam follower roller. Once the center of the
roller is aligned with the mark, tighten the cam follower
screw (A, Figure 38).
3. With the throttle arm in the idle position, a 0.005 in.
(0.13 mrn) clearance must be present between the throttle
cam and the cam follower.
Wide-Open Throttle Stop
1. With the motor not running, advance the throttle to the

wide-open position.
2A. 130 hp-Loosen the locknut on the wide-open throkle
stop screw (B, Figure 36). Adjust the wide-open throttle
stop screw until the carburetor throttle valves are fully open
(horizontal).
2B. 200,225,250 and 300 hp-Loosen the locknut on the
wide-open throttle stop screw (Figure 42). Adjust the
wide-open throttle stop screw until the carburetor throttle
valves are fully open (horizontal).
3. Continue adjusting the stop screw until the cam fol-
lower WOT index line (F, Figure 38) faces directly for-
ward and is perpendicular with the air silencer base. Hold
the screw from moving and tighten the locknut.
CHAPTER FIVE
Throttle Cable Installation and Adjustment WARNING

Do not attempt to adjust maximum spark
NOTE advance with the motor running. Contact
If throttle cable adjustment is too loose, the with the moving flywheel can result in seri-
idle speed may be excessive or inconsistent. ous personal injury.
lf cable adjustment is too tight, throttle and
shift control eflort may be excessive. 5. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor. Loosen the
maximum advance screw locknut and turn the screw (A,
1. Extend the throttle cable and lubricate it with OMC Figure 44) clockwise to retard or counterclockwise to
Triple-Guard Grease. Apply Triple-Guard to both cable advance timing. One full turn in either direction changes
anchor pockets on the power head. t a g approximately one degree.
2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control 6. Tighten the locknut and repeat Steps 3 and 4 to check
assembly is in the down position. adjustment.
3. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the remote
WARD detent, then halfway back to the NEUTRAL posi- Idle Speed
tion.
4. Push the throttle lever f d y against its stop. NOIT
The air silencer cover and ba8e must be
installed before the idle speed can be accu-
lever using the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut rately adjusted.
securely.
6. Pull on the throttle cable to remove any slack, then place Adjust idle speed with the outboard mounted on a boat
the trunnion nut into its anchor pocket. in the water, running at normal operating temperature in
7. Install the cable retainer and screw. Tighten the screw FORWARD gear, with the correct propeller installed and
to 60-84 in.-lb. (7-9 N.m). the boat's movement unrestrained.
8. Move the remote control handle to the FORWARD gear 1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
position, then pull it back slowly to NEUTRAL. Make sure 2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu-
the idle speed screw is against its stop. If not, remove cable facturer's instructions.
backlash by adjusting the throttle cable trunnion nut (B,
Figure 43). 3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating tempera-
ture.
4. Shift into FORWARD gear and note idle speed. Idle
Maximum Spark Advance speed in FORWARD gear should be 600-700 rpm on 130,
NOTE
adjusting maximum spark advance, the out-
board must be in a test tank or on a boat in
the water with the correct test wheel in-
stalled. Do not attempt to adjust the maxi-
not run the outboard at wide-open throttle
while connected to a flushing device.
1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating tempera-
ture.
4. Shift into FORWARD gear. Run the motor at 4500-
5000 rpm and note the timing marks with the timing light.
Maximum spark advance should be 17-19" BTDC on 130,
200,225 and 250 hp models and 15-17" BTDC on 300 hp
models.
200,225 and 250 hp models and 650-750 rpm on 300 hp 7. With the motor running at the specified idle speed in
models. FORWARD gear, check idle timing. Idle timing should be
as follows:
WARNING a. 130 hp-2-6" ATDC at 600-700 rpm.
Do not attempt to adjust idle speed with the b. 200 and 225 hp--0-4" ATDC at 600-700 rpm.
motor running. Contact with the movingfty- c. 250 hp--0-2" ATDC at 600-700 rpm.
wheel can result in serious personal injury. d. 300 hp-4-10" ATDC at 650-750 rpm.
8. If the idle timing is not correct at the specified engine
5. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor, Loosen the speed, recheck all linkage adjustments and repair as re-
locknut on the idle timing screw (B, Figure 44). Turn the quired.
screw clockwise to decrease and counterclockwise to in-
crease idle speed.
130, 200, 225 AND 250 HP
6. Tighten the locknut and repeat Steps 3 and 4 to check (1997-2002)
adjustment.
remove from the trunnion pocket before proceeding with
the synchronizing and adjusting procedure.
Use the following procedure to checkfadjust the align-

1
ment of the timing pointer with top dead center of the No. 1
(top) piston.
Refer to Timing Pointer Alignment under 65 Jet, 80 Jet
(1995-1997)and 85-115 hp (90" V4 crossflow models) in
this chapter.

open and close simultaneously.The engine will idle poorly
NOTE
Do not disengage the link (1,Figure 45)dur-
ing the following procedure.
1. Remove the air silencer.

2. Loosen the clamp screws that retain the starboard throt-
tle lever (2, Figure 45) and port throttle lever (3) so the le-
vers can rotate freely on their shafts.
3. Make sure the throttle valves are seated in the closed
position.
4. Move the starboard throttle lever (2, Figure 45) and
throttle cam (4) so the mark (5) on the throttle cam is cen-
tered on the cam follower (6).
5. Tighten the clamp screw on the starboard throttle lever
(2, Figure 45). Make sure the starboard carburetor throttle
valves are closed.
6. Tighten the clamp screw on the port throttle lever (3,
Figure 45). Make sure the port carburetor throttle valves
are closed.
1
186 CHAPTER FIVE
SPEED CONTROL LINKAGE

(1997-2002 13OY20Oy
225 AND 250 HP)
1. Link
2. Starboard throttle lever
3. Port throttle lever
4. Throttle cam
5. Mark
6. Cam follower
7. Throttle arm stop screw
7. Check operation of throttle to be sure throttle valves 7. Install the cable retainer and screw. Tighten the screw
open at the same time. to 60-84 in.-lb. (7-9 N-m).
Throttle Cam Pickup Point the idle speed screw is against its stop. If not, remove cable
1. Make sure the throttle cam follower screw (A, Figure backlash by adjusting the throttle cable trunnion nut (B,
38) is loose. Figure 43).
2A. 130 hp-Rotate the throttle arm stop screw (A, Figure
36) so the clearance between the throttle cam (4, Figure Maximum Spark Advance
45) and the cam follower (6) is 0.005 in. (0.13 mm) when 1~
the throttle valves are closed. NOTE

2B. 200, 225 and 250 hp-Rotate the throttle arm stop To load the outboard motor properly when
screw (7, Figure 45) so the clearance between the throttle adjusting maximum spark advance, the out-
cam (4) and the cam follower (6) is 0.005 in. (0.13 mm) board must be in a test tank or on a boat in
when the throttle valves are closed. the water with the correct test wheel in-
stalled. Do not attempt to adjust the rnaxi-
Wide-Open Throttle Stop not run the outboard at wide-open throttle
while connected to a flushing device. I
1. With the motor not running, advance the throttle to the

wide-open position. 1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
2A. 130 hp-Loosen the locknut on the wide-open throttle 2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu-
stop screw (B, Figure 36). Adjust the wide-open throttle facturer's instructions.
stop screw until the carburetor throttle valves are fully open 3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating tempera-
(horizontal). Hold the screw from moving and tighten the ture.
locknut. 4. Shift into FORWARD gear. Run the motor at 4500-
2B. 200, 225 and 250 hp-Loosen the locknut on the 5000 rpm and note the timing marks with the timing light.
wide-open throttle stop screw (Figure 42). Adjust the Maximum spark advance should be 17-19".
wide-open throttle stop screw until the carburetor throttle WARNING
valves are fully open (horizontal). Hold the screw from Do not attempt to adjust maximum spark
moving and tighten the locknut. advance with the motor running. Contact
with the moving flywheel can result in seri-
Throttle Cable Installation and Adjustment ous personal injury.
5. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor. Loosen the

NOTE
I f throttle cable adjustment is too loose, the maximum advance screw locknut and turn the screw (A,
idle speed may be excessive or inconsistent. Figure 44) clockwise to retard or counterclockwise to
If cable adjustment is too tight, throttle and advance timing. One full turn in either direction changes
shift control effort may be excessive. timing approximately 1".
6. Tighten the locknut and repeat Steps 3 and 4 to check
1. Extend the throttle cable and lubricate it with OMC adjustment.
Triple-Guard Grease. Apply Triple-Guard to both cable
2. Make sure the fast idle lever on the remote control Idle Speed
assembly is in the down position. NOTE
3. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the remote con- The air silencer cover and bafle must be
trol handle from the NEUTRAL position to the FORWARD installed before the idle speed can be accu-
detent, then halfway back to the NEUTRAL position. rately adjusted.
4. Push the throttle lever firmly against its stop.
5. Connect the throttle cable casing guide to the throttle Adjust idle speed with the outboard mounted on a boat
lever using the washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut in the water, running at normal operating temperature in
securely. FORWARD gear, with the correct propeller installed and
6. Pull on the throttle cable to remove any slack, then place the boat's movement unrestrained.
the trunnion nut into its anchor pocket. 1. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
188 CHAPTER F I W
2. Connect an accurate tachometer according to its manu- 5. If adjustment is necessary, stop the motor. Loosen the
facturer's instructions. locknut on the idle timing screw (B, Figure 44). Turn the
3. Start the motor and warm to normal operating temper- screw clockwise to decrease and counterclockwise to in-
ature. crease idle speed.
4. Shift into FORWARD gear and note idle speed. Idle 6. Tighten the locknut and repeat Steps 3 and 4 to check
speed in FORWARD gear should be 600-700 rpm on 130, adjustment.
200 and 225 hp models. On 1997 250 hp models, idle 7. With the motor running at the specified idle speed in
speed should be 600-700 rpm. On 1998 250 hp models, FORWARD gear, check idle timing. Idle timing should be
idle speed should be 500-700 rpm. as follows:
a. 130,200and 225 hp-2-6" ATDC at 600-700 rpm.
WARNING b. 250 hp (1997)-4-4" ATDC at 600-700 rpm.
Do not attempt to adjust idle speedwith the c. 250 hp (1998)-1-5" ATDC at 500-700 rpm.
motor running. Contact with the moving 8. If the idle timing is not correct at the specified engine
flywheel can result in serious personal in- speed, recheck all linkage adjustments and repair as re-
july. quired.
Table 1 RECOMMENDED TEST EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS

I Description Part No. Manufacturer
Ball hex screwdriver 327622 OMC
Dial indicator set (for TDC verification) 91-58222A-1 Mercury Marine
Dial indicator set (for TDC verification) 350 EKA Merc-0-Tronic
Piston stop tool 384887 OMC
Timing light 91-99379 Mercury Marine
Timing light Model 712 Merc-0-Tronic
Timing light ST-80 Stevens Instruments
Shop tachometer TD-96 Stevens Instruments
Shop tachometer 67-1OOTA Merc-0-Tronic
Shop tachometer 9149339 Mercury Marine
Table 2 TIMING SPECIFICATIONS

Maximum
Model idle timing Pickup timing spark advance
65 jet, 80 jet (1995-1997),
90" 85-115 hp - 3-5 BTDC 27-29" BTDC
80 jet (1998),
60" 90-115 hp 4" ATDC - 20" BTDC
105 jet 4" ATDC - 22" BTDC
130 hp (1995) 6-10" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
130 hp (1996-1998) 2-6" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
150-175 hp 6" ATDC - 20" BTDC
200-225 hp (1995-1996) 0-4" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
200-225 hp (1997-2002) 2-6" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
250 hp (1995-1996) 0-2" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
250 hp (1997) 0-4" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
250 hp (1998-2002) 1-5" ATDC - 17-19" BTDC
300 hp 6-10" ATDC - 15-17" BTDC
Table 3 ENGINE SPEED SPECIFICATIOIS

Model Idle speed (rpm) Full throttle speed (rpm)
65 jet, 80 jet (1995-1997),
90 85-1 15 hp 600-700 4500-5500
80 jet (1998), 60" 90-115 hp 600-700 4500-5500
105 jet, 150-175 hp 600-700 4500-5500
130 hp 600-700 5000-6000
130 hp 600-700 5000-6000
200-225 hp (1995) 650-750 5000-6000
200-225 hp (1996-1998) 600-700 5000-6000
250 hp (1995) 550-650 4500-5500
250 hp (1996) 600-700 4500-5500
250 hp (1997-1998) 600-700 5000-6000
300 hp 650-750 5000-6000

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Six
Fuel System
This chapter contains removal, overhaul, installation sure on the pump diaphragm. This pressure closes the inlet
and adjustment procedures for fuel pumps, carburetors, check valve and opens the outlet check valve, forcing the
primer solenoids and fuel delivery lines used on the out- fuel into the carburetor and drawing the fueVair mixture
board motors covered in this manual. Refer to Figures 1-6 from the crankcase into the cylinder for combustion. Fig-
for diagrams showing components and fuel line routing on ure 8 shows the operational sequence of a typical dia-
all models except Special (SPL) models. phragm-type fuel pump.
Fuel pumps used on Evinrude and Johnson outboard
motors are self-contained, remote assemblies. Fuel pump
FUEL PUMP design is extremely simple and reliable in operation. Dia-
A variable ratio oil injection (VRO) system is used on phragm failures are generally the most common problem,
all models except Special (SPL) models. The oil injection although the use of contaminated or improper fueUoil
unit is a combination fuel and oil pump, which is operated mixtures can cause check valve problems. Repair kits are
by crankcase pressure/vacuum pulsations. See Chapter available to overhaul a defective pump assembly.
Eleven for coverage of the VRO oil injection system. On a motor used on a boat equipped with a permanent
Special (SPL) models are equipped with a diaphragmfuel tank installed by the manufacturer, flow restrictions
type fuel pump (Figure 7) that transfers the fueUoil mix- may be caused by the antisiphon valve, primer, selector
ture from the fuel tank to the engine. The pump is operated valve or other such devices that are part of the built-in fuel
by crankcase pressure/vacuum pulsations. This type of delivery system. Because low fuel flow can seriously
fuel pump is not capable of creating sufficient vacuum to damage an outboard motor, the fuel delivery system must
draw fuel from the tank at cranking speed, therefore, fuel be periodically checked for possible flow restrictions.
is transferred to the carburetor for starting by operating the
primer bulb installed in the fuel hose. Fuel Line Restriction Test
Pressure pulsations created by movement of the pistons
reach the fuel pump through a passage between the crank- Use the following procedure to determine if a restriction
case and fuel pump. Upward piston motion creates a low is present in the fuel line between the tank and fuel pump.
pressure on the pump diaphragm. This low pressure opens Perform fuel pump tests with the motor mounted on a boat
the inlet check valve in the pump, drawing fuel from the in the water or in a test tank. Prior to testing, remove the
line into the pump. At the same time, the low pressure fuel tank fill cap to release any pressure that may be
draws the fueUair mixture from the carburetor into the present.
crankcase. Downward piston motion creates a high pres- 1. Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel pump.
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM

(85-1I 5 HP 90" V4 EXCEPT SPL)
/
Oil in
\
Fuel in
To No.1
bypass cover To No. 2
bypass cover
* d
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM

(90-175 HP 60°V4N6)
Upper main
bearing vent
Pulse
Air
silencer
Vapor
Pump
A
- To carburetors
T L
g3' F
3 TO intake manifolds
n
c ;.q
P
(P
s.
J9p 4
Separation 2
> Filter L chamber 9
Fuel in a
r
9
r
Starboard
balance
tube
Fuel/oil
out
vI
V R O ~pump
To bottom of
air silencer
Lower main
Oil in
bearing
U Fuel to VRO pump

- T Pulse
FUEL SYSTEM 193
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM (200 AND 225 HP)
Fuel manifold
196 CHAPTER SIX
I
FUEL SYSTEM 197
2. Connect a suitable vacuum gauge into the fuel hose and pump. Check for a loose connection, cracked or bko-
using a T fitting and a length of clear plastic hose. Connect ken fuel hose or other damage. ~
the gauge as close (before) to the fuel pump as possible.
Securely clamp all connections to prevent leakage.
3. Start the motor, shift into FORWARD gear and let it run Fuel Pump Output Test I
at wide-open throttle while observing the gauge and clear
hose. If fuel starvation is suspected, first remove the fuel hose
4. If the gauge indicates more than 4 in. hg (13.5 kPa) of from the fuel tank. Make sure the hose is clear by blowing
vacuum, a restriction is present in the fuel line between the through it with compressed air. Then, remove and clean
tank and fuel pump. Check for a partially closed fuel valve, the pump filter screen with clean solvent. See ~ h a d t e r
plugged or kinked fuel hose or a defective primer bulb Four. Reinstall the filter screen with its lip facing the pump
check valve. cover gasket. If fuel delivery is still insufficient, test p e
5. If air bubbles are present in the clear plastic hose while pump as follows.
running, an air leak is present in the hose between fuel tank Perform the fuel pump test with the motor mountedon
a boat in the water or in a test tank. Prior to testing, remove
the fuel tank fill cap to release any pressure that may be
present. The fuel tank must not be more than 24 in. (61 cp)
below the fuel pump. The pump is not capable of lifting
I
the fuel farther than 24 in. (6 1 cm).
1. Remove the fuel pump discharge hose from the carbu-
retor.
2. Using a T fitting, connect a suitable fuel pressure gadge
between the pump and carburetor. See Figure 9. Securkly
clamp all connections to prevent leakage.
3. Start the motor and observe the pressure gauge. pubp
pressure should be as follows:
a. 1 psi (7 kPa) at 600 rpm. I
b. 1.5 psi (10.3 kPa) at 2500-3000 rpm.
c. 2.5 psi (17.2 kPa) at 4500 rpm.
4. If the fuel pump does not perform as specified,
or replace it as outlined in this chapter. I
I
I
I
I
Gauge
1
Pump assembly
OUT ~
I
1
I
To carburetor(s)
I
Inlet valve
I
CHAPTER SIX
should place full-throttle speed in the middle of the rec-

ommended operating range. Changing the propeller for
1. Unscrew and remove the filter cover and screen (Fig- operation at high altitude will recover only that engine
ure 10, typical). power lost by not operating within the proper speed range.
2. Remove the screws holding the pump to the power head
(Figure 11,typical). Always rejet and prop the outboard for the lowest ele-
3. Carefully cut the clamp straps securing the fuel hoses vation at which the boat will be operated to prevent the
to the pump. Then disconnect the fuel hoses from the possibility of power head damage from an excessivelylean
Pump. mixture. If the boat is to be used at both high and low
4. Remove the pump and gasket from the engine. Discard elevations, you should have two sets of jets, two propellers
the gasket. and a fixed jet screwdriver (part No. 317002) for jet
5. Clean all gasket material from the power head mount- removal/installation.
ing pad. Use caution to avoid gouging or damaging the
mounting surface.
6. Clean the filter screen using a suitable solvent, then dry NOTE
with compressed air, Replace the screen if extremely con- Ifthe jet is visiblefrom outside of the carbu-
taminated or damaged. retor (without removing upplug), the jet is an
air control jet. I f the jet is not visible from
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use new gaskets
outside of the curburetoi; or if aplug must be
and clamp straps. Apply OMC Nut Lock to the threads of removed to see thejet, thejet is ajkel control
the pump mounting screws and tighten the screws to 24-36 jet.
in.-lb. (2.7-4.0 N-m).
When rejetting the carburetor, change air controljets in

0.004 in. increments and fuel control jets in 0.001 in.
increments.
1. Remove the screws holding the pump body together.
2. Separate the pump body. Remove and discard the dia-
phragm, check valves and gaskets.
3. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Install a new
diaphragm, check valves and gaskets during reassembly.
Apply OMC Nut Lock to the threads of the pump body
screws.
CARBURETORS
Various carburetors are used on the Johnson and
Evinrude outboard motors covered in this manual. All
operate essentially the same, but housing shape and design
varies according to the model it is used on.
On all models, the intermediate and high-speed fuel
mixture is metered by fixed jets, which do not normally
require adjustment. However, extreme changes in tem-
perature, humidity or elevation may make recalibration
(rejetting) necessary.
High-ElevationModification
If the outboard motor is used primarily at high-altitude,
the carburetor must be rejetted to lean the fuel mixture due
to the reduction in air density.
The propeller used must allow the motor to run within
the recommended speed range. The correct propeller
FUEL SYSTEM 199
Cleaning and Inspection It is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor linkage

or remove the throttle cam or other external components.
Before removing and disassembling the carburetor, Wipe the carburetor casting and linkage with a cloth mois-
make sure the proper overhaul kit, the proper tools and a tened with solvent to remove any contamination and oil
sufficient quantity of cleaning solvent are available. Work film. Clean the carburetor castings with an aerosol-type
slowly and carefully. Follow the disassembly procedures, carburetor cleaner and brush. Do not submerge them in a
referring to the exploded drawing of the carburetor when hot tank or carburetor cleaner. A sealing compound is used
necessary. Do not apply excessive force at any time. around the metering tubes and on the castings to eliminate
FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY

(88,90, 112 AND 115 SPECIAL)
1. Fuel pump 11. Nipple

2. Diaphragm 12. Hose (pump
3. Gasket to manifold)
4. Screw 13. Hose (manifold
to primer)
6. Filter screen 14. Fuel manifold
CHAPTER SIX
casting porosity. A hot tank or submersion in carburetor 3. If this does not solve the leakage problem or if the
cleaner will remove this sealing compound. low-speed orifices are completely plugged, carefully drill
Spray the cleaner on the casting and scrub off any gum a 118 in. (3.2 mm) hole through the center of the plug and
or varnish with a small bristle brush. Spray the cleaner pry it from the casting with a punch or similar tool.
through all metering passages in the casting. Never clean 4. Clean all residue from the core plug hole in the casting.
passages with a wire or drill as you may enlarge the If the hole is out-of-round, replace the casting.
passage and change the carburetor calibration. Dry the 5. If the low-speed passages are plugged, clean with a
castings using compressed air. brush and an aerosol carburetor cleaner.
Check for excessive throttle shaft play and throttle valve 6. Coat the outer edge of a new core plug with Gasoila
misalignment. In most cases, the throttle shaft is not avail- sealant and position it in the opening with its convex side
able separatelyfrom the carburetorbody; if excessivewear facing up.
or damage is noted, the carburetor body must be replaced. 7. Hold a flat punch in the center of the core plug and tap
Check all drillings and passages in the carburetor body it with a hammer to flatten the plug.
for leakage using a hypodermic syringe filled with rubbing 8. Check for leakage using a hypodermic syringe filled
alcohol. Inject the alcohol into the passage while observ- with rubbing alcohol.
ing core plugs and lead shot plugs for leakage. 9. Seal the core plug with Gasoila sealant or fingernail
polish.
Check the float for fuel absorption. Check the float arm
for wear in the hinge pin and needle valve contacts areas.
Replace as necessary. Lead Shot Service
Check the mixture screw tip for grooving, nicks,
scratches or excessive wear. Figure 13 shows a good tip 1. If leakage is noted, secure the carburetor in a vise with
(A), a valve tip damaged from excessive pressure when protective jaws.
seating (B) and one with wear on one side caused by 2. Tap the center of the lead shot sharply with a small
excessive vibration resulting from the use of a damaged hammer and appropriate size punch.
propeller (C). 3. If leakage remains, carefully pry the lead shot from its
Check the throttle and choke shafts for excessive wear opening with a suitable knife, awl or other sharp instru-
or play. The throttle and choke valves must move freely ment.
without binding. Replace the carburetor if any of these
defects are noted.
Clean all gasket material from mating surfaces and
remove any nicks, scratches or slight distortion with a
0 NEEDLE VALVE CONDITION
surface plate and emery cloth.
Core Plugs and Lead Shot
Certain passages in the carburetor casting are covered

with a core plug or have a lead shot installed. These usually
require service only if the openings are leaking.
Core Plug Service
1. If leakage is noted, secure the carburetor in a vise with

protective jaws.
2. Hold a flat punch in the center of the core plug and tap
sharply with a hammer to flatten the plug. Cover the plug
area with Gasoila Sealant or fingernail polish.
CAUTION
Do not drill more than 1/16 in. (1.6 mm)
below the core plug in Step 3 or the carbu-
retor casting will be damaged.
FUEL SYSTEM 201
4. Thoroughly clean the lead shot opening in the casting. top feed carburetor is a two-barrel design with a Minlon
5. Install a new lead shot in the opening and flatten out (non-metallic) float bowl.
with a hammer and appropriate size punch.
6. Check for leakage using a hypodermic syringe filled
with rubbing alcohol.
To prevent breakage, do not attempt to pull fuel hoses
7. Coat the area with Gasoila sealant or fingernail polish.
off the fittings. Always push the hose off using your
fingers, a screwdriver or other blunt tool. If pushing the
TOP FEED CARBURETOR hose will not easily separate the hose and fitting, carefully
( ~ CROSS
4 n o w MODELS) cut the hose along the side and peel it away from the fitting.
1. Remove the air silencer cover and gasket. See Figure
14. Discard the gasket.
The 65 jet, 80jet (prior to 1998), 85,88,90,112 and 115
2. Remove the screws securing the air silencer base. See
hp models are equipped with two top feed carburetors. The
Figure 15. Disconnect the air silencer drain hose and
remove the base and gasket. Discard the gasket.
3. Remove the oil injection pump (VRO) attaching screws
without disco~ectingthe oil or fuel hoses. Lay the pump
assembly aside.
4. Disconnect the throttle linkage between the carbure-
tors.
5. Remove the carburetor mounting screws.
6. Cut the tie strap clamps from the fuel delivery and
primer hoses. Disconnect the primer hoses from the car-
buretor fittings, then remove the carburetors. Remove and
discard the carburetor-to-intake manifold gaskets.
NOTE
Do not apply gasket sealant to the carbure-
tor-to-intake rnan$old gaskets.
7. To install the carburetors, first install new carburetor-

to-intake manifold gaskets. Make sure the gaskets are
provided with a hole for the fuel primer fitting.
8. Install the fuel delivery and primer hoses. Clamp the
hoses securely using new tie straps.
9. Install the carburetors and mounting screws. Tighten
the screws securely.
10. Install the throttle linkage to the carburetors. Perform
synchronization and linkage adjustment as outlined in
Chapter Five.
11. Install the oil injection pump (VRO) assembly to the
air silencer base, if removed. Tighten the pump mounting
screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m).
12. Connect the air silencer drain hose to the air silencer
base. Install the air silencer base using a new gasket. Apply
OMC Screw Lock to the threads of the base mounting
screws. Install the screws and tighten to 35-60 in.-lb.
(4.0-6.8 N.m).
13. Pressurize the fuel system using the primer bulb to
check for fuel leaks. Repair any fuel leakage as necessary
before proceeding.
14. Install the air silencer cover using a new gasket.
Tighten the cover screws securely.
CHAPTER SIX
Disassembly 4. Remove the idle air bleed orifices (Figure 18).Note the
number stamped in each orifice for reference during reas-
Refer to Figure 16 for this procedure. sembly.
1. Invert the carburetor and drain any fuel remaining in 5. Remove the four float bowl attaching screws. Remove
the float bowl into a suitable container. the float bowl and gasket (Figure 19). Discard the gasket.
2. Remove the drain plugs and O-rings from the float 6. Remove the float pin, float and inlet valve needle
bowl. Remove and discard the O-rings. (Figure 20).
3. Using OMC Orifice Driver (part No. 317002), remove
7. Remove the inlet valve seat using a wide-blade screw-
the high-speed orifices. Note the number stamped in each
driver (Figure 21). Remove and discard the seat gasket.
orifice for reference during reassembly. Figure 17 shows
both float bowl drain plugs and high-speed orifices re- 8. Remove the intermediate fuel orifices (Figure 22) us-
moved. ing OMC Orifice Driver (part No. 317002). Note the
FUEL SYSTEM
CHAPTER SIX
number stamped in the orifices for reference during reas- 2. Place the float gauge (part No. 324891) on the gasket
sembly. surface and hold it next to the float (Figure 24). Do not
9. Remove the idle chamber cover (Figure 23) and gasket. allow the gauge to push down on the float.
Discard the gasket. 3. If the top of the float is not between the gauge notches
(Figure 24), carefully bend the metal float arm as neces-
sary to position the float as specified. Do not force the inlet
Assembly needle valve into the seat.
Refer to Figure 16 for this procedure. Replace all gas-
kets, O-rings and sealing washers during assembly. Com- Float drop
pare all new gaskets and other parts to be sure they match
the original parts. The correct float drop adjustment is necessary to ensure
the inlet valve opens fully. Fuel starvation at high speed
NOTE
After a aeriod o f time. the idle chamber
cover gasket can be sucked down into the
L-shaped idle passage in the carburetor
body, restricting idle fuel flow. To prevent
this ffom occurring, carefully cut out an
L-shaped portion of the gasket correspond-
ing to the idle passage in the body.
1. Install the idle chamber cover using a new gasket.

Tighten the four screws securely.
2. Install the inlet valve seat using a new gasket. Tighten
the seat securely using a wide-blade screwdriver.
3. Install the inlet valve needle, float and float pin.
4. Adjust the float level and float drop as described in this
chapter.
5. Install the intermediate fuel orifices into the float bowl.
Securely tighten the orifices using OMC Orifice Driver
(part No. 317002).
6. Install the float bowl using a new gasket. Apply OMC
Screw Lock to the threads of the four float bowl screws.
Install the screws and tighten in a crossing pattern to 24-36
in.-lb. (2.7-4.1 N.m).
7. Install the idle air bleed orifices. Tighten the orifices
securely.
8. Install the high-speed orifices. Tighten the ollfices se-
curely.
9. Install the float bowl drain plugs with new O-rings.
Tighten the plugs securely.
Carburetor Adjustment
Float level
The correct float level is necessary for proper carburetor
calibration and operation. If the float level is too low, an
excessively lean fuel mixture andor fuel starvation at high
speed can result. If the float level is too high, an excessively
rich fuel mixture and/or carburetor flooding can result.
1. Invert the carburetor body with its float bowl gasket
surface horizontal.
FUEL SYSTEM
can result if the float drop is insufficient. The inlet value

needle can become cocked in its seat and cause severe
FLOAT DROP ADJUSTMENT carburetor flooding if the float drop is excessive.
1. Hold the carburetor in the upright position, with the
float hanging by its own weight. ,
2. Measure the distance between the carburetor body aqd
the bottom of the float as shown in Figure 25.
3. The float drop should be 718 to 1-118 in. (22-28 mm)\
4. If adjustment is necessary, carefully bend the adjust-
ment tang as necessary.
Idle speed
1 Refer to the appropriate

-- - section in Chapter Five for idle
speed adjustment procedures.
Fuel mixture
1. Carburetor casting
2. Adjustment tang Idle, off idle and high-speed fuel mixtures are controlled
3. Float drop dimension by fixed orifices and under normal circumstances, should
not require additional adjustment. See High leva ti an
Modijcation in this chapter. Make certain that all other I
systems are functioning properly before rejetting the car-
buretors to correct a performance problem. i
MINLON CARBURETORS ~
i
(V4 AND V6 LOOP CHARGED MODELS) i
Minlon carburetors are used on 80 jet (1998), 90, 11'5

and 130hp (V4 models), 200,225 hp, 60" 105jet, 150 add
175 hp (V6 models), 250 and 300 hp (V8 models). /
On V4 models, a pair of two-barrel carburetors are used.
Each carburetor assembly has a common throttle body (A,
Figure 26, typical) with separate main body assembli&s
I
(B).
On V6 models (except 6 P V6 models), two 2-barrel a d
two one-barrel carburetors are used. The two-barrel carbh-
retors (upper) share a common throttle body with separate
main body assemblies. The one-barrel carburetors (lower)
each consist of one main body and one throttle body. ~
On 60" V6 models, each carburetor assembly consists bf
six main body assemblies and two throttle bodies. Three
main bodies are mounted on each throttle body.
I
On V8 models, four two-barrel type carburetors are
used. Each carburetor assembly consists of a c o r n +
throttle body assembly (A, Figure 26) with separate main
body assemblies (B). ,
Each main body assembly is equipped with its own float,
inlet valve and fuel metering circuits. The idle mixture is
controlled by an idle air bleed orifice (D, Figure 26) or by
a slow-speed mixture screw in the same position as the air
CHAPTER SIX
bleed orifice shown. Intermediate (off idle) fuel mixture is 11. Perform synchronization and linkage adjustment as
controlled by the intermediate air bleed orifice (C, Figure outlined in Chapter Five.
26). High-speed mixture is controlled by the high-speed 12. Install the air silencer.
fuel orifice behind the float bowl plugs (E, Figure 26). 13. Install the power steering support bracket (if so
Carburetor calibration can be changed without removing equipped) and lower motor covers.
the carburetors or main body assemblies from the power
head.
The carburetor main body assemblies are constructed of Main Body Removal/Installation
(80 Jet [1998], 105 Jet, 90,115,150
a non-metallic Minlon material. Care must be used when
and 175 hp Models)
working with the main body assembly. Do not overtighten
any screws that thread into the main body. Tighten each CAUTZON
screw in small increments in a crossing pattern to prevent To prevent breakage, do not attempt to pull
damage to the carburetor body. fuel hoses off plastic or Minlon fittings. Al-
The main bodies on each carburetor can be removed
individually for service or cleaning without disconnecting
the throttle linkage or removing the throttle body. If over-
hauling the power head, remove the carburetors as assem-
blies. Because of their special construction, observe the
cleaning and inspection procedures and tightening se-
quence and values.
Main Body Removal/hstallation

(130,200,225,250 and 300 hp Models)
CAUTZON
To prevent breakage, do not attempt to pull
fuel hoses off plastic or Minlon fittings. Al-
ways push the hose off using your fingers, a
screwdriver or other blunt tool. I f pushing
the hose will not easily separate the hose and
fitting, carefully cut the hose along the side
and peel it away fromthe fitting.
1. Remove the power steering hose support bracket, if so

equipped.
2. Loosen the screws holding the port and starboard lower
engine covers. Remove the covers.
3. Remove the air silencer assembly.
4. Remove the four mounting screws holding the main
body to the throttle body.
5. Remove the main body assembly. Remove and discard
the carburetor body O-ring seal.
6. Cut the tie strap(s) and disconnect the fuel inlet hose(s)
from the ca,rburetor(s).
7. Use a new main body-to-throttle body O-ring seal
during reinstallation.
8. Place the carburetor main body in position and recon-
nect the fuel hose(s). Clamp the hose(s) with new tie straps.
9. Install the main body and four mounting screws.
Tighten the screws in a crossing pattern to 45-55 in.-lb.
(5.1-6.2 N-m).
10. Check the fuel delivery system for leakage by operat-
ing the primer system. Repair any fuel leakage noted.
FUEL SYSTEM
ways push the hose off using yourfingers, a 10. Perform synchronization and linkage adjustment as
screwdriver or other blunt tool. If pushing outlined in Chapter Five.
and peel it away from the fitting. Carburetor Assembly RemovaVInstallation
(130,200,225,250 and 300 hp Models)
1. Disconnect the air silencer retaining straps (Figure 27)
and remove the silencer assembly. CAUTION
2. Cut the tie strap clamp securing the main fuel delivery fuel hoses off plastic or Minlon fittings. Al-
hoses (A, Figure 28) to the carburetor fuel manifolds (B). ways push the hose off using the fingers, a
Push the hoses off the fittings. screwdriver or other blunt tool. If pushing
3. Disconnect the balance hoses (C, Figure 28) from the the hose will not easily separate the hose and
balance tube manifolds (D). fitting, carefully cut the hose along the side
4. Disconnect the fuel primer hoses (E, Figure 28) from and peel it away from the fitting.
the intake manifold. 1. Remove the power steering hose support bracket, if so
5. If removal of the top carburetor on the port side is equipped.
necessary, cut the tie strap holding the trim/tilt relay 2. Loosen the retaining screws holding the port and star-
bracket to the carburetor. board lower motor covers. Remove the covers.
6. Remove the screws securing the carburetor main body 3. Remove the air silencer cover.
to the throttle body (Figure 29). If all main body assem- 4. Cut the tie strap holding the main body fuel delivery
blies are to be removed, remove the top carburetor first, hose. Carefully disconnect the hose to prevent dam
then install a suitable screw in the throttle body to hold the the fitting.
throttle body assembly and gasket to the intake manifold. 5. Loosen the throttle shaft link at one or both ends.
Remove and discard the main body-to-throttle body O- 6. Cut the tie strap(s) and disconnect the fuel delivery h
ring seal. from the carburetors.
7. Use a new carburetor main body-to-throttle body O- 7. Cut the primer hose tie strap and disconnect the h
ring seal during installation. from the fuel manifold.
8. Attach the main body to the throttle body. Make certain 8. Cut the oil injection (VRO) pump outlet tie strap
the O-ring seal is in position, then install the mounting disconnect the hose.
screws and tighten in a crossing pattern to 45-55 in.-lb. 9. Note the primer hose routing over the top of the c
(5.1-6.2 N.m). retors, then remove the hoses from the intake manifold
fittings.
9. Complete the remaining installation by reversing the 10. Remove the two nuts and two screws for each carbu-
removal procedure. Securely clamp fuel hoses using new
retor assembly to be removed.
tie straps.
11. Remove the carburetor assembly from the intake
manifold, slowly drawing the fuel supply hose through the
intake manifold grommet.
12. Remove and discard the carburetor flange gaskets.
13. Use new gaskets (without sealant) during installation.
14. Connect all fuel hoses and clamp with new tie straps.
15. Place the carburetor assembly in position and engage
the throttle shaft connector links.
16. Install two nuts and two screws at each carburetor
assembly. Tighten the fasteners in a crossing pattern
120-144in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N-m).
17. Pressurize the fuel system by operating the pri
system to check for leakage. Repair any fuel leakage p
to returning the unit to service.
18. Perform synchronization and linkage adjustmen
outlined in Chapter Five.
19. Install the air silencer.
20. Complete the remaining installation by reversing
removal procedure.
CHAPTER SIX
Carburetor Assembly RemovaVInstallation Disassembly

(80 Jet [1998], 105 Jet,
90,115,150 and 75 hp Models) Keep all components from each carburetor separate
from each other during disassembly. Refer to Figure 31
CAUTION (130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models) or Figure 32 (80
To prevent breakage, do not attempt to pull jet [1998], 105jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp models)
fie1 hoses off plastic or Minlon jittings. Al- 1. Remove the main body attaching screws. Separate the
ways push the hose off using the fingers, a main body assembly from the throttle body. Remove and
screwdriver or other blunt tool. If pushing discard the main body-to-throttle body O-ring seal.
the hose will not easily separate the hose and 2. Remove the float bowl screws. Separate the float bowl
fitting, carefilly cut the hose along the side
from the main body. Remove and discard the float bowl
and peel it away from thejitting.
gasket.
1. Disconnect the air silencer retaining straps (Figure 27) 3. Remove the float pin anchor screw. See A, Figure 33
and remove the silencer assembly. (130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models) or Figure 34 (80
jet [1998], 105 jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp models).
2. Cut the tie strap clamp securing the main fuel delivery
Remove the float, float pin and inlet valve needle. Remove
hoses (A, Figure 28) to the carburetor fuel manifolds (B).
and discard the nozzle well gasket on 80 jet (1998), 105
Push the hoses off the fittings.
jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp models.
3. Disconnect the balance hoses (C, Figure 28) from the 4. Remove the inlet valve seat using a wide-blade screw-
balance tube manifolds (D). driver. Remove and discard the gasket.
4. Disconnect the fuel primer hoses (E, Figure 28) from 5. Remove the high-speed orifice plug from the float
the intake manifold. bowl.
5. Cut the tie strap holding the trim/tiltrelay bracket to the 6. Remove the high-speed fuel orifice using OMC Orifice
upper port carburetor. Place the bracket and relays aside. Driver (part No. 317002). See B, Figure 33.
6. Remove the carburetor link screw from the upper port 7. Remove the side cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.
carburetor. See Figure 30. 8. Remove the idle and intermediate air bleed orifices
7. Remove eight screws securing the carburetor assem- using OMC Orifice Driver (part No. 3 17002). See Figure
blies. Remove the carburetor/throttle body assemblies 35. Remove the slow-speed mixture screw and spring on
from the intake manifold. models so equipped. See 36 and 37, Figure 31.
8. Remove and discard the throttle body-to-intake mani- 9. On models so equipped, unscrew and remove cover 39,
fold ring seals. Figure 31, and gasket.
9. Install a new throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring
seal onto the intake manifold. Cleaning and Inspection
10. Install the carburetor assemblies on the intake mani-
fold, then install the eight mounting screws. Tighten the 1. Clean all components using a mild aerosol solvent. Do
screws in a crossing pattern to 45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2 Nom). not submerge carburetor components in a hot tank or
11. Install the carburetor link screw (Figure 30) finger- strong automotive carburetor cleaner.
tight.
12. Install the fuel primer hose (E, 28) to the intake
manifold.
13. Install the balance hose (C, Figure 28) to the balance
manifold (D).
14. Install the main fuel delivery hose (A, Figure 28) to
the carburetor fuel manifold (B) and clamp using a new tie
strap.
15. Pressurize the fuel system by squeezing the primer
bulb to check for leakage. Repair any fuel leakage prior to
returning the unit to service.
16. Perform synchronization and linkage adjustment as
outlined in Chapter Five.
17. Complete the remaining installation by reversing the
removal procedure.
FUEL SYSTEM 209
CARBURETOR MAIN BODYITHROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY

(130,200,225,250 AND 300 HP)
1. O-ring seal 15. Float bowl 28. Roll pin

2. Main body 16. High speed fuel orifice 29. Core plug
3. Screw 17. O-ring 30. Upper throttle
4. Screw 18. Plug body assembly
5. Side cover 19. Screw 31. Core plug (some models)
6. Side cover gasket 20. Float pin anchor screw 32. Screw
7. Float bowl gasket 21. Lower throttle 33. Clip
8. Intermediate air body assembly 34. Screw
bleed orifice 22. Screw 35. Nut
9. Idle air bleed orifice 23. Washer 36. Spring (some models)
10. Float pin 24. Sleeve 37. Slow-speed mixture
11. Float 25. Throttle shaft screw (some models)
12. Spring clip connector 38. Screw
13. lnlet valve needle 26. Nut 39. Cover (some models)
14. lnlet valve seat 27. Throttle return spring 40. Gasket (some models)
210 CHAPTER SIX
CARBURETOR/THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY

(10 5 JET, 150 AND 175 HP) (80 JET, 9 0 AND 115 HP SIMILAR)
9. Idle air bleed orifice 16. High speed fuel orifice

10. Float pin
11. Float
12. Spring clip 19. Screw
5. Side cover 13. Inlet valve needle 20. Float pin anchor screw
6. Side cover gasket 14. Inlet valve seat 21. Throttle body assembly
7. Float bowl gasket 15. Float bowl 22. Nozzle well gasket
8. Intermediate air bleed orifice
FUEL SYSTEM
2. mush all holes and passages with a syringe containing between the edge of the throttle valves and the throttle
isopropyl alcohol. Blow all holes and passages dry with body casting is 0.002 in. (0.05 mm).
compressed air. For best results, direct the compressed air 5. Make sure all gasket mating surfaces are smooth and
in the opposite direction to the normal flow of fuel or air. flat.
3. Inspect the inlet valve needle and seat for distortion,
excessive wear or other damage. Replace the needle and Assembly
seat as an assembly if any defects are noted.
4. Inspect the throttle body assembly and shaft for exces- Refer to Figure 31 (130, 200, 225, 250 and 300 hp
sive wear or other damage. Make certain the throttle valve models) or Figure 32 (80 jet [1998], 105jet, 90, 115, 150
retaining screws are tight and that the valves seat properly and 175 hp models) as necessary during this procedure.
in the throttle body casing. Maximum allowable clearance Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings. During assembly,
compare all new gaskets to the old ones to make sure all
holes are properly punched.
1. If removed on models so equipped, install new core
plugs in the throttle body. Position the plugs with their
convex side facing up, then seat firmly using a suitable flat
punch. Seal the area around the rim of the plug with
Gasoila sealant or fingernail polish. See Core Plug and
Lead Shot in this chapter.
2. If removed on models so equipped, reinstall side cover
and gasket on throttle body.
3. On models so equipped, install the slow-speed mixture
screw and spring. Turn the screw clockwise until lightly
seated, then back out the screw to the initial setting listed
in Table 1.
4. Install the idle and intermediate air bleed orifices using
OMC M c e Driver (part No. 317002). Standard orifice
sizes are listed in Table 2. Tighten the orifices securely.
5. Install the main body side cover using a new gasket.
Tighten the cover screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m).
6. Install a new float bowl gasket on the main body. On
80 jet (19981, 105 jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp models,
install a new nozzle well gasket.
7. Install the inlet valve seat using a new gasket.
CHAPTER SIX
8A. 130, 200, 225, 250 and 300 hp models-Attach the necessary, carefully bend the float arm as necessary. Do
spring clip to the inlet valve needle, then attach the clip to not force the inlet valve needle into the seat.
the float. The clip must face toward the port side of the
float bowl. Insert the float pin into the float arm,then in-
80 Jet (1998),105jet,
stall the float, inlet valve needle and float pin into the float
90,115,150 and 175 hp models
bowl as an assembly. Install the float pin anchor screw and
tighten securely. 1. Invert the carburetor so the float bowl gasket surface is
8B. 80 jet (1998-2002),105 jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp horizontal and facing upward.
models-Attach the spring clip to the inlet valve needle 2. The float should be parallel with the float bowl mating
then attach the clip to the float arm.Insert the float pin into surface to within 1/32 in. (0.8 mm). See Figure 38.
the float arm,then install the float, inlet valve needle and 3. If adjustment is necessary, carefully bend the float arm
float pin on the main body as an assembly. Install the float as necessary. Do not force the inlet needle into the seat.
pin anchor screw and tighten securely. 4. Next, hold the carburetor upright. Measure the distance
9. Adjust the float level as outlined in this chapter. between the float bowl mating surface and the bottom of
10. Install the high-speed fuel orifice into the float bowl us- the float. The distance should be 11/16 to 1-118 in. (17-28
ing OMC Orifice Driver (part No. 3 17002). Tighten the ori- mm). If not, carefully bend the tang on the float arm as
fice securely, then install the float bowl plug using a new necessary to obtain the specified float drop.
O-ring. Tighten the plug to 30-35 in.-lb. (3.4-4.0 N-m).
11. Install the float bowl and retaining screws on the main
body. Make sure the screws engage their original threads Idle Speed
in the main body.
The idle speed is adjusted by correctly setting the idle
12A. 130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models-Tighten the
timing. Refer to the appropriate section in Chapter Five.
float bowl screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m) in the se-
quence shown in Figure 36.
12B. 80jet (1998-2002),105jet, 90,115,150 and 175 hp
models-Tighten the float bowl screws in a crossing pat-
tern to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m).
13. Install a new O-ring seal between the main body and
throttle body. Install the main body on the throttle body
making sure the O-ring seal is properly located. Install the
main body screws and tighten in a crossing pattern to
45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2 N-m).
Float Adjustment
The correct float level is necessary for proper carburetor

calibration and operation. If the float level is too low, an ex-
cessively lean fuel mixture and/or fuel starvation at high
speed can result. If the float level is too high, an excessively
rich fuel mixture and/or carburetor flooding can result.
The float, float pin, inlet valve assembly and float pin
anchor screw must be correctly installed to perform this
procedure.
130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models
1. Invert the float bowl so its gasket mating surfaceis hori-

zontal.
2. Place a suitable straightedgeagainst the float bowl mat-
ing surface as shown in Figure 37.
3. The float should be level with the float bowl mating
surface to within 1/32 in. (0.8 mm). If adjustment is
FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel Mixture systems are functioning properly before rejetting the car-
buretors to correct a performance problem.
Idle, off idle and high-speed fuel mixtures are controlled
by fixed orifices and under normal circumstances should ELECTRIC FUEL PRIMER PUMP
not require additional adjustment. See High-Elevation (V8 MODELS) 1
ModiJication in this chapter. Make certain that all other

V8 models are equipped with an electric fuel prime4
pump. When actuated by a spring-loaded toggle switch,
the primer pump pressurizes the fuel delivery system.
NOTE
Float parallel to Do not use a fuel line primer bulb on V8
gasket mating surface
models equipped with an electric fuel primer 1
I
Pump-
Refer to Figure 39 and proceed as follows to determinq
if the pump is functioning properly. I
1. Disconnect the primer pump outlet hose (top) from th4
pump. Plug the hose to prevent leakage. I
2. Install a suitable 0-15 psi (0-103 kPa) fuel pressure

gauge to the pump outlet fitting. Securely clamp the gauge
to the fitting. I
NOTE
The electric primerpump circuit is protected
by an inline 5-amp fuse located near the
pump switch. If the pump does not operate 1
when activated, check the fuse first. I
I
3. Turn the key switch to the ON position. ~ o r n e n t a r i l ~
actuate the pump with the toggle switch and note the
ELECTRlC FUEL pressure gauge. The pump should be capable of delivering
PRIMER PUMP a minimum of 4.5 psi (31 kPa) fuel pressure. If not, first
(V8 MODELS) make sure the battery is in acceptable condition and fully
charged. If output pressure is still not as specified, replace
the primer pump assembly. ~
I
Electric Primer Pump Filter Service
I
Use the following procedure to clean, inspect or replay
the electric fuel primer pump filter. See Figure 39.
1. Disconnect all fuel hoses and pipe fittings from tlk
pump assembly. Remove the pump from its mounting
I
bracket.
2. Remove the pump bracket then carefullypry both met&
end caps from the pump.
3. Remove the three cover screws, then remove the cove1/;
O-ring and filter. Clean the filter using mild solvent then
1. Pump assembly
dry with compressed air. Replace the filter if excessively
2. Filter contaminated. I
3. O-ring 4. Install a new cover O-ring during reassembly. ~ i ~ h t $ n
4. Pump cover the three cover screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 Nerd).
Complete the remaining assembly by reversing the disas-
sembly procedure. 1
214 CHAPTER SIX
5. After assembly and installation,pressurize the fuel sys-

tem by actuating the pump to check for leakage. Repair
any fuel leaks prior to returning the unit to service.
ELECTRIC FUEL PRIMER SOLENOID

An electric fuel primer solenoid is used on all electric
start models with remote control. The solenoid is actuated
by pushing the key switch IN and diverts fuel directly to
the intake manifolds to provide mixture enrichmentto ease
cold starting.
Proceed as follows to determine if the primer is func-
tioning properly.
1. Start the motor and warm it to normal operating tem-
perature.
2. While the outboard is running at fast idle, push the key
IN.
3. The engine speed should drop approximately 1000rpm
and the engine should run roughly, indicating that mixture
enrichment has occurred.
4. If not, check primer hoses for kinks, plugging or re-
strictions. Check primer fittings for plugging or restric-
tions. If the hoses and fittings are in acceptable condition,
test the solenoid as outlined in this chapter.
Primer Solenoid RemovaVInstallation

Figure 40 shows a typical primer solenoid installation
(130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models). The primer sole-
noidusedon 80jet (1998), 105jet, 90,115,150 and 175hp PRIMER SOLENOID
models is shown at A, Figure 41. DISASSEMBLYIASSEMBLY
1A. 130, 200, 225, 250 and 300 hp models-Disconnect
the solenoidpurplelwhite wire at the terminalboard or bul-
let connector.
1B. 80 jet (1998-2002),105jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp
models-Disconnect the purplelwhite and black wires at
their bullet connectors.
2A. 130,200,225,250 and 300 hp models-Remove the
screws securing the solenoid bracket. Carefully discon-
nect the three fuel hoses and remove the solenoid.
2B. 80 jet (1998-2002),105jet, 90, 115, 150 and 175 hp
models-Remove the two screws securing the primer so-
lenoid to the fuel component bracket. Carefully disconnect
the two fuel hoses and remove the solenoid.
3. Installation is the reverse of removal.
a. 130, 200,225,250 and 300 hp models-Install the
three fuel hoses and clamp the large hose with a new
tie strap. Reinstall the ground wire under the mount-
ing clamp.
b. 80jet (1998-2002),105jet, 90,115,150 and 175 hp
models--Connect the two fuel hoses to the primer
solenoid. Tighten the solenoid mounting screws to
FUEL SYSTEM
18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m) and reconnect the sole- 5. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Install a new
noid wires at their bullet connectors. valve seat and use a new cover gasket.
Primer Solenoid Test VACUUM SWITCH
The solenoid plunger must be free of dirt, corrosion or V6 and V8 loop charged models are equipped with a
any contamination that might prevent it from moving vacuum sensitive switch designed to activate the warning
freely. horn should a restriction in the boat's fuel system occur.
Connect an ohmmeter between the purplelwhite wire See B, Figure 41 (105 jet, 150 and 175 hp models) or
and the black ground wire. Primer solenoid resistance Figure 44 ( 200,225,250 and 300 hp models) for typical
should be 4-7 ohms. If not, replace the solenoid. vacuum switch installations.
Proceed as follows to determine if the vacuum switch is
functioning properly. Make sure the battery and all other
Primer Solenoid Disassembly/Assembly electrical circuits are connected.
1. Remove the vacuum switch hose from the fuel mani
1. Remove the cover screws (Figure 42). Remove the fold (200, 225, 250 and 300 hp models) or the vapo
cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. separator assembly (105 jet, 150 and 175 hp models).
2. Remove the valve seat, filter, valve, plunger and both 2. Connect a suitable vacuum pump to the hose. A gear
springs. See Figure 43. case vacuum tester works well for this test.
3. Clean or replace the filter as necessiuy. 3. Turn the key switch to the ON position.
4. Clean the plunger to remove any contamination or 4. Slowly draw a vacuum on the switch. The warning ho
corrosion. should sound continuouslywhen the vacuum on the switc
PRIMER SOLENOID
1. Solenoid body 7. Gasket

2. Spring 8. Solenoid cover
3. Plunger 9. Screws
4. Valve 10. O-ring
5. Filter 11. Fitting
6. Valve seat
CHAPTER SIX
is within 6.5-7.5 in. Hg if the switch housing is gray or 5-6

in. Hg if the switch housing is black.
5. If the warning horn does not activate, inspect the warn-
ing horn circuit for broken or disconnected wires or other
damage. If the circuit is acceptable, replace the vacuum
switch. Note that on 105jet, 150 and 175 hp models, the
fuel module must be removed as outlined in this chapter
to replace the vacuum switch.
FUEL MODULE AND VAPOR SEPARATOR

(60" V4 AND V6 MODELS)
The fuel module consists of the vapor separator (A,
Figure 45), vapor pump (B), VRO pump (C), vacuum
switch (D), fuel primer solenoid Q, fuel filter (F) and
related bracket, hoses and circuitry.
Fuel from the fuel tank flows through the fuel filter into
the vapor separator. The flow of fuel into the vapor sepa-
rator is regulated by a float and inlet valve assembly. The
vapor separator allows the fuel vapor to separate from the
liquid fuel. The liquid fuel is then delivered to the oil
injection pump (VRO). Refer to Chapter Eleven for a
description of the oil injection (VRO) system. The dia-
phragm-type vapor pump is actuated by crankcase pulsa-
tions and designed to remove fuel vapor from the separator
and pump the vapor to the air silencer. FUEL MODULE ASSEMBLY
(60"V 4 N 6 MODELS)
Fuel Module Removal
CAUTION
fuel hoses off plastic or Minlon fittings. Al-
ways push the hose off using yourfingers, a
screwdriver or other blunt tool. If pushing
and peel it away from the fitting.
1. Remove the air silencer.
2. Remove the cover from the fuel and oil fitting bracket.
NOTE
Label all fuel and oil hoses during removal
for reference during installation.
3. Disconnect the fuel and oil hoses from the fuel module.
Remove the screw (Figure 46) securing the fuel and oil
fitting bracket to the motor lower cover, Remove the
bracket.
4. Cut the tie strap clamp from the main fuel delivery hose
(A, Figure 47) at the starboard fuel manifold. Disconnect
the hose from the manifold. Next, cut the tie strap clamp
from the main fuel delivery hose (B, Figure 47) at the port
fuel madold. Disconnect the hose from the manifold.
FUEL SYSTEM 217
5. Disconnect the pulse hose (A, Figure 48) and the

recirculation hose (B) from the vapor pump.
6. Disconnect the tan and black vacuum switch wires on
V6 models at the bullet connectors.
7. Disconnect the purplelwhite and black primer solenoid
wires at their bullet connectors.
8. Disconnect the pulse hose from the oil injection (VRO)
pump. The pulse hose is the innermost hose on the bottom
of the pump assembly. See Figure 49.
9. Disconnect the oil injection pump wiring harness at the
Amphenol connector.
10. Remove the four fuel module mounting screws (Fig-
ure 50). Support the fuel module to prevent it from falling
when the last screw is removed.
11. Disconnect the two fuel primer hoses from the back
side of the primer solenoid.
218 CHAPTER SIX
Fuel Module Disassembly Cleaning and Inspection I
Refer to Figure 51 for this procedure. 1. Clean the fuel filter in clean solvent and dry with
compressed air. Direct the air in the opposite direction of
Remove the two screws securing the primer fuel flow. Replace the filter if excessive contami-
noid to the fuel module bracket. Remove the solenoid. nation is noted. I
2. Remove the screws securing the oil injection (VRO)
pump assembly to the fuel module bracket. Remove the
pump assembly.
NOTE FUEL MODULE BRACKET, I

The push clip securing the vacuum switch to VAPOR SEPARATOR COVER, AND I
the fuel module bracket must be replaced if RELATED COMPONENTS
removed. Therefore, do not remove the vac-
uum switch in Step 3 unless replacement is
~
I
necessary.
I
I
3. If necessary, remove the vacuum switch from the fuel

module bracket. I
4. Remove the fuel filter assembly. I
5. Remove the vapor pump assembly.
6. Remove the screws holding the vapor separator cover
to the fuel module bracket. Lift the cover along with the I
float and inlet valve off of the bracket.
I
~
FUEL MODULE ASSEMBLY
(60"V4N6 MODELS) I
I
1. Vapor separator cover

2. Gasket
3. Float
4. Float pin
5. Float pin anchor screw
6. Sprlng clip
7. inlet valve needle
8. lnlet valve seat
9. Fuel module
bracket assembly
FUEL SYSTEM
2. Remove the float pin anchor screw. Slide the float pin 6. Install the fuel filter using new O-rings. Tighten the
out of its bracket, then remove the float and inlet valve filter cover securely.
needle. Remove the inlet valve seat using a wide-blade 7. Install the vacuum switch to the fuel module bracket.
screwdriver. Inspect the inlet needle and seat for excessive Secure the switch using a new push clip.
wear, distortion or other damage. Replace the needle and 8. Install the oil injection (VRO) pump assembly to the
seat as a set if any defects are noted. fuel module bracket. Tighten the mounting screws to 18-24
3. Inspect all hoses and fittings for cracking, deterioration in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m).
or other damage. Replace as necessary. 9. Install the fuel primer solenoid to the fuel module
bracket.
Fuel Module Assembly
Fuel Module Installation
Refer to Figure 51 and Figure 52 for this procedure.
1. Using a new gasket, install the inlet valve seat into the 1. Connect the two fuel primer hoses to the rear side of the
vapor separator cover. Tighten the seat securely using a primer solenoid. Place the fuel module in position, then
wide-blade screwdriver. &stall the four bracket mounting screws andwashers (Fig-
2. Attach the spring clip to the inlet valve needle, then ure 50). Tighten the screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m).
connect the needle and clip to the float arm. 2. Connect the oil injection (VRO) harness Amphenol
3. Install the float and inlet needle. Install the float pin and connector.
secure with the anchor screw. 3. Connect the pulse hose to the oil injection unit. See
a. Invert the vapor separator cover and position the Figure 49. Securely clamp the hose with a ratchet hose
cover mating surface horizontal. The float should be clamp.
parallel with the mating surface as shown in Figure 4. Connect the fuel primer solenoid and vacuum switch
53. If not, carefully bend the float arm as necessary (V6) electrical connectors.
to adjust the float level. 5. Install the vapor pump pulse hose (A, Figure 48).
b. Next, position the cover upright and allow the float Clamp the hose with a ratchet clamp. Connect the recircu-
to hang by its own weight. Measure the distance lation hose (B, Figure 48) to the vapor pump.
from the cover mating surface to the bottom of the 6. Connect the main fuel delivery hoses to the port and
float at the end. The distance should be 1-114 to starboard fuel manifolds. See A and B, Figure 47.
1-11/32 in. (32-34 rnm).If not, bend the tang on the 7. Install the fuel connector bracket in the motor lower
float arm as necessary to obtain the specified float cover. Tighten the attaching screw securely.
drop. 8. Install the fuel connector bracket cover.
4. Install a new gasket on the vapor separatorcover. Install
the cover assembly on the fuel module bracket. Install the ANTISIPHON DEVICES
cover screws and tighten in a crossing pattern to 18-24
in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m). In accordancewith industry safety standards,late model
5. Install the vapor pump to the vapor separator. Tighten boats equipped with a built-in fuel tank will have some
the mounting screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m). form of antisiphon device installed between the fuel tank
outlet and the outboard fuel inlet. This device is designed
to shut the fuel supply off in case the boat capsizes or is
involved in an accident. Quite often, the malfunction of
antisiphon devices leads the operator to replace the fuel
pump in the belief that it is defective.
Antisiphon devices can malfunction in one of the fol-
lowing ways:
a. Antisiphon valve: orifice in the valve is too small or
clogs easily; valve sticks in the closed or partially
closed position; valve fluctuates between open and
closed position; thread sealant, metal filings or
dirt/debris clogs the orifice or lodges in the relief
spring.
b. Solenoid-operated fuel shutoff valve: the solenoid
fails with the valve in the closed position; solenoid
CHAPTER SIX
malfunctions, leaving the valve in the partially assembly from the tank. The filter on the end of the pickup
closed position. tube can be cleaned with OMC Cleaning Solvent.
c. Manually-ope& fuel shutoff valve: valve is left in Alcohol blended with gasoline may cause a gradual dete-
the completelyclosed position; valve is not fullopened. rioration of the indicator lens in some portable fuel tanks.The
The easiest way to determine if an antisiphon valve is use of a tank with an alcohol-resistantlens is recommended
defective is to bypass it by operating the engine with a if alcohol extended gasoline is used frequently.
remote fuel supply. If a fuel system problem is suspected,
check the fuel filter first. If the filter is not clogged or
restricted, bypass the antisiphon device. If the engine runs FUEL LINE AND PRIMER BULB
properly with the antisiphon device bypassed, contact the
boat manufacturer for replacement of the device. CAUTION
V8 models are equipped with an electricfuel
primer pump and do not require a primer bulb
FUEL TANK for priming the carburetors.lf a fuel line con-
taining aprimer bulb must be used, do not use
To remove any dirt or water that may have entered the the primer bulb to prime the fuel system
fuel tank, clean the inside of the tank once per season by
flushing with clean gasoline or kerosene. When priming the engine, the primer bulb should gradu-
Check the inside and outside of the tank for rust, leakage ally become firm. If it does not become firm or if it stays
or corrosion. Replace as necessary. Do not attempt to patch firm even when disconnected, a check valve inside the
the tank with automotive fuel tank repair materials. Port- primer bulb is malfunctioning.
able marine fuel tanks are subject to much greater pressure Check the line periodically for cracks, breaks, restric-
and vacuum conditions than automotive fuel tanks. tions and chafing. Check the bulb periodically for proper
To check the fuel tank filter for restrictions, unscrew the operation. Make sure all fuel line connections are tight and
fuel pickup nipple and withdraw the pickup tube and filter securely clamped.
mble 1 SLOW-SPEED MIXTURE SCREW INITIAL SETTING

Model llrrns out
80 jet
1998 4 1R turns
90 hp
1995 3 turns
1996-1998 5 314 turns
105 jet 4 turns
115 hp
1995 3 turns
1996-1998 5 3/14 turns
130 hp
1995 2 112 turns
1996-1998 3 1R turns
150 hp
1995 3 turns
1996-1998 5 turns
175 hp
1995 3 turns
1996-1998 5 turns
200 hp
1995 2 112 turns
1996-1998 5 turns
225 hp
1995 2 112 turns
1996-1998 5 turns
250 hp
1995-1996 2 112 turns
1997-1998 5 turns
300 hp 2 112 turns

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Seven
Ignition and Electrical Systems
This chapter provides serviceprocedures for the battery, Allrepairs or service procedures must be performed ex-
starter motor and ignition systems used on the outboard actly as specitied to ensure the engine will continue tq
motors covered in this manual. Wiring diagrams are lo- comply with EPA requirements. For the same reason, all
cated at the end of the book. Refer to Chapter Three for replacement parts must meet or exceed the manufacturer's
charging system identification. specifications.
Battery charge percentages, wire color codes, battery If in doubt as to whether a repair or service procedure
capacities and battery cable size recommendations are will adversely affect the engine's ability to maintain E P ~
listed in Tables 1-5. Fastener torque values are listed in compliance, contact an Evinrude or Johnson dealer, before
Table 6 and Table 7. Charging and ignition system identi- beginning the repair or procedure. I
fication is covered in Table 8 and Table 9. All tables are lo-

cated at the end of the chapter.
BATTERY I
Common engine specifications, recommended lubri-
cants, sealants and adhesives, and standard torque values
Batteries used in marine applications endure far more
are listed in the Quick Reference Data section, located at
rigorous treatment than those used in automotiveelectrical
the front of this manual.
systems. Marine batteries have a thicker exterior case to
CAUTZON cushion the plates during tight turns and rough water oper-
Metric and American fasteners may be used ation. Thickerplates are also used, with each one individu-
on newer model outboards. Always match a ally fastened within the case to prevent premature failure.
replacementfastener to the original. Do not Spill-proof caps on the battery cells prevent electrolyte
run a tap or thread chaser into a hole (or from spilling into the bilge.
over a screw or bolt) without$rst verifying Automotive batteries should be used in a boat only if a
the thread size and pitch. suitable marine battery is not available during an emer-
gency situation. I
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS- CAUTZON

1998-2002 MODEL YEAR ENGINES Sealed or maintenance-free batteries are not
recommended for use with unregulated
The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) certifies charging systems. Excessive charging dur-
emission output for all 1998-2002models. Certified mod- ing continued high-speed operation will
els have an EPA certification plate mounted near the model cause the electrolyte to boil, resulting in its
identification plate on the engine midsection. loss. Since water cannot be added to sealed
CHAPTER SEVEN
batteries, prolonged overcharging will de- the reserve capacity rating, the longer the vehicle could be
stroy the battery. Refer to Table 8for charg- operated after a charging system failure.
ing system identification.
Amp-hour rating
Battery Rating Methods
The ampere hour rating method is also called the 20 hour
The battery industry has developed specifications and
rating method. This rating represents the steady current
performance standards to evaluate batteries and their en-
flow that the battery will deliver for 20 hours while at 80"
ergy potential. Several rating methods are available to
F (26.7" C) without dropping below 10.5volts or 1.75volts
provide meaningful information on battery selection.
per cell. The rating is actually the steady current flow times
the 20 hours. Example: A 60 amp-hour battery will deliver
Cold cranking amps (CCA) three amps continuously for 20 hours. This method has
been largely discontinued by the battery industry. Cold
This figure represents in amps the current flow the cranking amps (or MCA) and reserve capacity ratings are
battery can deliver for 30 seconds at O" F (-17.6" C) without now the most common battery rating methods.
dropping below 7.2 volts or 1.2 volts per cell. The higher
the number, the more amps it can deliver to crank the
engine. CCA times 1.3 equals MCA. Battery Recommendations
V4 models-The manufacturer recommends a battery

Marine cranking amps (MCA) with a minimum rating of 465 marine cranking amps
This figure is similar to the CCA test figure except that

the test is run at 32" F (O" C) instead of O" F (-17.6" C).
This is more aligned with actual boat operating environ-
ments. MCA times 0.77 equals CCA.
Reserve capacity
This figure represents the time (in minutes) that a fully

+ -
charged battery at 80" F (26.7" C) can deliver 25 amps,
without dropping below 10.5 volts or 1.75 volts per cell.
The reserve capacity rating defines the length of time that
a typical vehicle can be driven if the charging system fails.
- + To fishing motor
The 25 amp figure takes into account the power required
by the ignition, lighting and other accessories. The higher
+ + +.
To fishing motor
- -- -
(MCA) or 360 cold cranking amps (CCA) and 90 minutes teries connected in a parallel or series circuit must be
reserve capacity (or 50 Ampere-hour rating). disconnected and charged individually.
V6 and V8 models-The manufacturer recommends a
battery with a minimum rating of 620 marine cranking Safety Concerns
amps (MCA) or 500 cold cranking amps (CCA) and 90
minutes reserve capacity (or 60 Ampere-hour rating). The battery must be securely fastened in the boat to
prevent the battery from shiftlng or moving in the bilge
area. The positive battery terminal (or the entire top of the
Battery Installation battery) must also be covered with a nonconductive shield
or boot.
Separate batteries may be used to provide power for If the battery is not properly secured it may contact the
accessories such as lighting, fish finders and depth finders. hull or metal fuel tank in rough water or while being
To determine the required capacity of such batteries, cal- transported. If the battery shorts out against the metal hull
culate the accessory current (amperage) draw rate of the or fuel tank, the resulting short circuit will cause sparks
accessory and refer to Table 4. and an electrical fire. An explosion could follow if the fuel
Two batteries may be connected in parallel to double the tank or battery case are compromised.
ampere-hour capacity while maintaining the required 12 If the battery is not properly grounded and the battery
volts. See Figure 1.For accessories which require 24 volts, contacts the metal hull, the battery will try to ground
batteries may be connected in series (Figure 2), but only through the control cables or the boat's wiring harness.
accessories specifically requiring 24 volts can be con- Again, the short circuit will cause sparks and an electri
nected to the system. If charging becomes necessary, bat- fire. The control cables and boat wiring harness will
irreparably damaged.
The following preventive steps must be observed w
installing a battery in any boat, especially a metal bo
a boat with a metal fuel tank.
1. Choose a location as far as practical from the fuel t
whlle still providing access for maintenance.
2. Secure the battery to the hull with a plastic battery box
and tie-down strap (Figure 3) or a battery tray with a
nonconductive shield or boot covering the positive battery
terminal (Figure 4).
3. Make sure that all four battery cable connections (two
at the battery, two at the engine) are clean and tight. Do
not use wing nuts to secure battery cables. If wing nuts are
present, discard them and replace them with corrosion
resistant hex nuts and lock washers to ensure positive
electrical connections. Loose battery connections can
cause every symptom imaginable.
4. Periodically inspect the installation to make sure the
battery is physically secured to the hull and that the battery
cable connections are clean and tight.
Care and Inspection
1. Remove the battery tray top or battery box cover. See

Figure 3 or Figure 4.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive
battery cable.
NOTE
Some batteries have a built-in carry strap
( F i e r e 5 )for use in Step 3.
224 CHAPTER SEVEN
3. Attach a battery carry strap to the terminal posts. Re-

move the battery from the boat.
4. Inspect the entire battery case for cracks, holes or other
damage.
5. Inspect the battery tray or battery box for corrosion or
deterioration. Clean as necessary with a solution of baking
soda and water.
NOTE
Do not allow the baking soda cleaning solu-
tion to enter the battery cells in Step 6 or the
electrolyte will be severely weakened.
6. Clean the top of the battery with a stiff bristle brush
using the baking soda and water solution (Figure6). Rinse
the battery case with clear water and wipe dry with a clean
cloth or paper towel.
7. Clean the battery terminal posts with a stiff wire brush
or battery terminal cleaning tool (Figure7).
NOTE
Do not ove@ll the battery cells in Step 8. The
electrolyte expands due to heat from the
charging system and will overjlow ifthe level
is more than 3/16 in. (4.8 mm) above the
battery plates.
8. Remove the filler caps and check the electrolyte level.
Add distilled water, if necessary, to bring the level up to
3/16 in. (4.8mm)above the plates in the battery case. See
Figure 8.
9. Clean the battery cable clamps with a stiff wire brush
(Figure 9). Battery post
cleaning tool
10. Place the battery back into the boat and into the battery
tray or battery box. If using a battery tray, install and secure
the retaining bracket.
11. Reconnect the positive battery cable first, then the
negative cable.
CAUTION
Make sure the battery cables are connected
to their proper terminals. Reversing the bat-
tery polarity will result in electrical and
ignition system damage.
12. Securely tighten the battery connections. Coat the
connections with petroleumjelly or a light grease to mini-
mize corrosion. If using a battery box, install the cover and
secure the assembly with a tie-down strap.
Battery Testing
Hydrometer testing
On batteries with removable vent caps, checking the
specific gravity of the electrolyte using a hydrometer is the
IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 225
best method to check the battery state of charge. Use a

hydrometer with numbered graduations from 1.100-1.300
points rather than one with color-coded bands. To use the
BATTERY hydrometer, squeeze the rubber bulb, insert the tip into a
ELECTROLYTE LEVEL cell, then release the bulb to fill the hydrometer. See Figure
10.
Vent cap NOTE

Do not test specijk gravity immediatelyafer
adding water to the battery cells, as the
Bottom of water will dilute the electrolyte and lower
vent well the specific gravity. To obtain an accurate
hydrometer reading, the battery must be
Maximum charged afer adding watel:
liquid level
Plates
@
Battery cable
Electrolyte must be
3/16 in, above plates
CHAPTER SEVEN
Draw sufficient electrolyte to raise the float inside the 2. Remove and ground the spark plug leads to the power
hydrometer. When using a temperature-compensatedhy- head to prevent accidental starting.
drometer, discharge the electrolyte back into the battery 3. Crank the engine for approximately 15 seconds whild
cell and repeat the process several times to adjust the noting the voltmeter reading.
temperature of the hydrometer to that of the electrolyte. 4A. If the voltage is 9.5 volts or higher at the end of the 15
Hold the hydrometer upright and note the number on the second time period, the battery is sufficiently charged and
float that is even with the surface of the electrolyte (Figure of sufficient capacity for the outboard motor. I
11). This number is the specific gravity for the cell. Dis-
charge the electrolyte into the cell from which it came.
The specific gravity of a cell is the indicator of the cell's
state of charge. A fullycharged cell will read 1.260or more
at 80" F (26.7"C). A cell that is 75 percent charged will
read from 1.220-1.230 while a cell with a 50 percent
charge will read from 1.170-1.180.Any cell reading 1.120
or less must be considered discharged. All cells must be
within 30 points specific gravity of each other. If over 30
points variation is noted, the battery condition is question-
able. Charge the battery and recheck the specific gravity.
If 30 points or more variation remains between cells after
charging, the battery has failed and must be replaced.
NOTE
Ifa temperature-compensatedhydrometer is
not used, add 4 points specific gravity to the
actual reading for every 10" above 80" F
(26.7" C). Subtract 4 points spec& gravity
for every 10" below 80" F (26.7" C).
Open-circuit voltage test
On sealed or maintenance free batteries (vent caps not

removable), the state of charge must be checked by meas-
uring the open-circuit (no load) voltage of the battery. Use
a digital voltmeter for best results. For the most accurate
results, allow the battery to set at rest for at least 30 minutes
to allow the battery to stabilize. Then, observing the cor-
rect polarity, connect the voltmeter to the battery and note
the meter reading. If the open-circuit voltage is 12.7 volts
or higher, the battery can be considered fully charged. A
reading of 12.4 volts means the battery is approximately
75 percent charged, a reading of 12.2 means the battery is
approximately 50 percent charged and a reading of 12.1
volts means that the battery is approximately 25 percent
charged.
Load testing
To check the battery's ability to maintain the minimum

required voltage while cranking the engine, proceed as
follows:
1. Attach a voltmeter to the battery as shown in Figure
12.
4B. If the voltage is below 9.5 volts at the end of the 15 or more below full charge (1.260), or the open circuit
second time period, one of the following conditions is voltage falls below 12.4 volts, recharge the battery.
present:
a. The battery is discharged or defective. Charge the Battery Charging
battery and retest.
b. The battery is of insufficient capacity for the out- A good state of charge must be maintained in batteries
board motor. Refer to Battery Recommendations in used for starting. Check the state of charge with a hydrome-
this chapter. ter or digital voltmeter as described in the previous section.
c. The starting system is drawing excessive current Since a charging battery releases hlghly explosive hy-
causing the battery voltage to drop. Refer to Chapter drogen gas, the battery must be removed from the boat for
Three for starting system troubleshooting proce- charging. In many boats, the area around the battery is not
dures. well ventilated and the gas may remain in the area for hours
d. A mechanical defect is present in the power head or after the charging process has been completed. Sparks or
gearcase creating excessive load on the starting sys- flames occurring near the battery can cause it to explode,
tem. Inspect the power head and gearcase for rne- spraying battery acid over a wide area.
chanical defects. If the battery cannot be removed for charging, make sure
that the bilge access hatches, doors or vents are fully open
to allow adequate ventilation. For this reason, it is impor-
Battery Storage tant to observe the following precautions when charging
batteries:
Wet cell batteries slowly discharge when stored. They 1. Never smoke in close proximity to any battery.
discharge faster when warm than when cold. Before stor- 2. Make sure all accessories are turned off before discon-
ing a battery, clean the case with a solution of baking soda necting the battery cables. Disconnecting a circuit that is
and water. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry.The battery electrically active will create a spark that can ignite explo-
must be fully charged and then stored in a cool, dry sive gases that may be present.
location. Check electrolyte level and state of charge fre- 3. Always disconnect the negative battery cable first, then
quently during storage. If specific gravity falls to 40 points the positive cable.
Battery
I 7
CHAPTER SEVEN
4. If the battery has removable vent caps, always check the 2. Confirm that all jumper cables are out of the way of
electrolyte level before charging the battery. Maintain the moving engine parts.
correct electrolyte level throughout the charging process.
5. Never attempt to charge a battery that is frozen. CAUTION
WARNING water supply and do not exceed 3000 rpm
Be extremely carefil not to create any sparks without an adequate load. Refer to Safety
around the battery when connecting the bat- Precautions at the beginning of Chapter
tery charger Three.
Connect the charger to the battery, negative charger lead

3. Start the engine. Once it starts, run it at a moderate
to the negative battery terminal and positive charger lead
speed (fast idle).
to the positive battery terminal. If the charger output is
variable, select a setting of approximately 4 amps. It is
CAUTION
much more preferable to charge a battery slowly at a low Running the engine at high speed with afully
amperage rate, rather than quickly at a high rate. discharged battery may damage the charg-
If the charger has a dual voltage setting, set the voltage ing system.
switch to 12 volts, then switch the charger on.
If the battery is severely discharged, allow it to charge
for at least 8 hours. Check the charging process with a
hydrometer. The battery can be considered fully charged
when the specific gravity of all cells does not increase
when checked 3 times at 1 hour intervals, and all cells are Make connections in numerical order
gassing freely. (disconnect in reverse order 4-3-2-1)
Jump Starting
Second
jumper
If the battery becomes severely discharged,it is possible cable
to jump start the engine from anotherbattery. Jump starting 4 Ol
can be dangerous if the proper procedure is not followed.
Always use caution when jump starting. o+
Check the electrolyte level of the discharged battery
before attempting the jump start. If the electrolyte is not . jumwr
cable
@ Booster
battery
visible or if it appears to be frozen, do not jump start the Discharged
battery
discharged battery.
WARNING
Use extreme caution when connecting the
booster battery to the discharged battery to
avoid personal injury or damage to the sys-
tem. Make sure the jumper cables are con-
nected in the correct polarity.
1. Connect the jumper cables in the order and sequence

shown in Figure 13.
WARNING
An electrical arc may occur when the $nu1
connection is made. This could cause an
explosion if it occurs near the battery. For
this reason, the $rial connection must be
made to a good engine ground, away from
the battery and not to the battery itsel$
4. Remove the jumper cables in the exact reverse of thel

order shown in Figure 13. Remove the cable from point
4, then 3, then 2 and finally 1.
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM I
Description ,
I
An alternator charging system is used on all models. The
job of the charging system is to keep the battery fully
charged and supply current to run accessories. Charging
systems can be divided into two basic designs: unregulated
(6 amp), and regulated (9, 10, 20 and 35 amp). Refer to
I
Table 8 for charging system identification.
All systems use permanent magnets mounted in the'
flywheel (Figure 14, typical) and a stator coil winding
mounted to the power head (Figure 15, typical). As the
flywheel rotates, the magnetic fields in the flywheel pass
through the stator coil windings, inducing AC (alternating
current) into the stator. Unregulated systems use a rectifiei
to changethe AC current to DC (direct current). See Figure
16, typical. The output from an unregulated charging sys-
tem is directly proportional to engine speed. Because an
unregulated system has the potential to overcharge the
battery during long periods of wide-open throttle opera-
tion, maintenance-free batteries are not recommended.~
Overcharging a battery causes the electrolytelevel to drop,l
leading to premature battery failure. Vented batteries that
allow removal of the vent caps and refilling of the electro-)
I
lyte provide longer service life. I
Regulated systems use the same type flywheel magnets
and stator coil windings as the unregulated system, with
the rectifier being replaced with a voltage regulator ( r ~ t i - ~
fierlregulator).See Figure 17,typical. The rectifier portion
of the voltage regulator changes the AC current to DCl
current, while the regulator portion monitors system volt-~
I
age and controls the charging system output accordingly.
Batteries that are maintained at 13-15 volts will stay fully1
charged without excessive venting. The regulator controls~
the output of the charging system to keep system voltage1
at approximately 14.5 volts. The red lead of the recti-1
fierlregulatoris DC output and also functions as the sense
lead, allowing the regulator portion to monitor system
voltage. A small purple lead turns the rectifierlregulator on^
whenever the ignition (key) switch is in the ON or RUN^
position. I
Voltage regulators produce a lot of heat when they are:

controlling the charging system output. The regulator is,
cooled by being mounted in the water jacket at the top of;
the cylinder block between the cylinder banks. If the
engine's water pump fails, it is common for the regulator
to overheat and fail also.
CHAPTER SEVEN
The regulator used on newer 35 amp charging systems ground. Do not operate an outboard
incorporates a thermal cutout to protect the regulator. The equipped with a regulated charging system
thermal cutout will shut down the charging system should with the battery disconnected.
the regulator overheat. These regulators can be identified
by their round cooling posts, instead of rectangular cooling Perform the following visual inspection to determine if
fins. the cause of a problem is of a simple origin. If the visual
Another function of the charging system is to provide inspection does not locate the problem, refer to Chapter
the signal for the tachometer. All tachometers simply count Three for a complete charging system troubleshooting
the AC voltage pulses coming out of the stator before the procedure.
AC voltage is rectified to DC. Tachometer failure is always 1. Make sure that the battery cables are connected prop-
related to the charging system, not the ignition system. The erly. The red cable (positive) must be connected to the
tachometer connects to the stator's yellowlgray lead on positive battery terminal. If the polarity has been reversed,
unregulated systems or the voltage regulator's gray lead on check for a damaged rectifier (or voltage regulator). See
regulated models. Chapter Three.
Malfunctions in the charging system generally cause the 2. Inspect the battery terminals for loose or corroded
battery to be undercharged and on integral systems, the connections. Tighten or clean as necessary. Replace any
tachometer to read erratically or totally fail. The following wing nuts with corrosion resistant hex nuts and lockwash-
conditions will result in rectifier or voltage regulator (rec- ers. See Figure 18.
tifierlregulator) failure. 3. Inspect the physical condition of the battery. Look for
a. Reversing the battery leads. bulges or cracks in the case, leaking electrolyte and corro-
b. Disconnecting the battery leads while the engine is sion buildup. Clean, refill or replace the battery as neces-
running. sary.
c. Loose connections in the charging system circuits, 4. Carefully check the wiring between the stator coil and
including battery connections and ground circuits. battery for damage or deterioration. Refer to the end of the
CAUTION
If an outboard motor equipped with an un-
regulated charging system must be operated
with the battery removed or disconnected,
the positive battery cable end must be insu-
latedfrom the negative battery cable a d o r
book for wiring diagrams. Repair or replace wires and Rectifier RemovaVInstallation
connectors as necessary. (6 Amp Models)
5. Check all accessory circuits and associated wiring for
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the
corroded, loose or disconnected connections. Clean,
power head to prevent accidental starting. Then disconnect
tighten or reconnect as necessary.
the negative battery cable.
6. Determine if the accessory load on the battery is greater 2. Remove the terminal strip protective cover. Then dis-
than the charging system's capacity by performing the connect the rectifier's red, yellow and yellowlgray fromthe
Current draw test. See Chapter Three. terminal strip. See A, Figure 19.
3. Remove the one large (B, Figure 19) and one small (C)
rectifier mounting screws. Then remove the rectifier.
Stator Coil (or Stator Assembly) Replacement 4. To install the rectifier, position it on the power head and
secure it in place with one large and one small screw.
The stator coil windings are integrated into a single Tighten both screws to 48-96 in.-lb. (5.4-10.9 N.m).
stator assembly (Figure 15, typical), which is mounted 5. Connect the rectifier's red, yellow and yellowlgray
directly to the power head. The stator assembly includes leads to their matching leads on the terminal strip. Tighten
the ignition system's charge coil windings and the battery each connection securely. Then reinstall the terminal
charging system's stator coil windings. On models strip's protective cover.
equipped with QuikStart, the power coil windings are 6. Coat all connections with OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
included in the stator assembly. 7. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative battery
The removal and installation procedure for the stator cable when finished.
assembly is covered under Ignition Systems located in this
chapter.
Voltage RegulatorIRectifier RemovaVInstallation
(9,10,20 and 35 Amp Models)

2A. 90" V4 (cross-flow) models-Remove the flywheel
and stator assembly as described in this chapter.
2B. 60" V4 and V6 models-Remove the three screws (A,
Figure 20) securing the flywheel cover. Remove the cover.
Then remove the four screws (B and C, Figure 20) secur-
ing the regulator cover to the power head. The starboard
front screw is located below the throttle shaft. It is neces-
sary to advance the throttle linkage to access the screw.
Remove the rear cover.
2C. 90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) models-The regu-
lator is located under the power pack as shown in Figure
21, typical. Remove the power pack as described later in
this chapter. Then position the electrical component
bracket to the port side of the power head to gain access to
the regulator.
3A. 90" V4 (cross-flow and loop-charged) models-Dis-
connect the regulator's red, gray, purple, yellow and yel-
lowlgray leads from the terminal strip. Temporarily
reinstall each screw after the regulator's lead is removed to
make sure each engine harness lead is held in its correct
position. Then remove any tie-straps or clamps securing
the regulator's leads.
3B. All other models-Proceed as follows:
CHAPTER SEVEN
a. Lift the lock tab on the regulator's large two-pin Note the position of the lead(s)before remov-
connector (yellow and yellowlgray leads) and sepa- ing the mounting screws.
rate the connector (A, Figure 22, typical).
b. Disconnect the regulator's red lead at the starter 4. If so equipped, note the position of any black (ground)
solenoid. leads, cable clamps and brackets, then remove the six (90"
models) or four (60" models) regulator mounting screws.
c. Disconnect the purple and gray leads at their bullet There must be lockwashersunder at least two screws. Note
(or two-pin Deutsch) connector(s). the position of the lockwashers for reassembly.
d. Remove any tie-straps or clamps securing the regu- 5. Carefully separate the regulator from the cylinder block.
lator's leads. See B, Figure 22. Then remove and discard the gasket. Do not damage the
cylinder block sealing surfaces during the removal process.
NOTE If necessary, carefully tap around the outer perimeter of the
On 60" V6 and 90" V6 and V8 (loop-charged) regulator with a soft-faced hammer to break the gasket seal.
models, two ground leads are secured under
a regulator mounting screw. On 90" V4 6. To install the regulator, begin by coating a new gasket
(loop-charged) models, one ground lead is with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Position the gasket,
secured under a regulator mounting screw. then the regulator, to the power head.
Electrical bracket
Voltage regulatorlrectifier
7. Coat the threads of the regulator mounting screws with 9A. 90" V4 (cross-flow) models-Install the stator assem-
OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Then install the screws, bly and flywheel as described in this chapter.
making sure the lockwashers and any ground leads, cable 9B. 60" V4 and V6models-Install the regulator cover and
clamps or brackets are reinstalled in their original positions. secure it with four screws (B and C, Figure 20). Tighten
Evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m). the screws securely. Then install the flywheel cover and
8A. 90" V4 (cross-flow and loop-charged) models-Re- secure it with three screws (A). Tighten the screws se-
connect the regulator's red, gray, purple, yellow and yel- curely.
lowlgray leads to their mating engine harness leads at the 9C. 90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) models-Position
terminal strip. Securely tighten each connection. Coat all the electrical component bracket over the regulator. Then
connections with OMC Black Neoprene Dip. On cross- install the power pack as described later in this chapter.
flow models, reinstall the protective cover on the terminal 10. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative bat-
strip. tery cable when finished.
8B. All other models-Reconnect the regulator's electrical
leads as follows: FUSE OR CIRCUIT BREAKER
a. Connect the large two-pin connector (yellow and
yellowlgray leads) to its engine harness mate (A, Fuses and circuit breakers are designed to protect wire
Figure 22, typical). Make sure the connector locks and electrical components from damage due to excessive
together. current flow. A fuse or circuit breaker that repeatedly
b. Connect the purple and gray leads to their matching blows indicates a problem with the circuit or component
engine harness bullet (or two-pin Deutsch [B, Fig- that the fuse (or circuit breaker) is protecting. V8 models
ure 22, typical]) connector(s). use a 20-amp circuit breaker in place of the 20-amp fuse
c. Connect the regulator's red lead to the starter sole- used on V4 and V6 models. A circuit breaker can be reset
noid. Make sure the brass nut is tightened securely, by pushing its button (after allowing ample time for the I
but do not strip the brass threads. Coat the connec- breaker to cool).
tion with OMC Black Neoprene Dip. Do not install a higher capacity fuse or circuit breaker in
an attempt to remedy the problem. Refer to Chapter Three
and locate the defect that is causing excessive current flow I
in the circuit.
While a visual inspection can quickly tell you if a fuse is
bad, do not trust a visual inspection alone when trying to
determine if a fuse is good.
Fuses and circuit breakers can be quickly and accurately
tested with an ohmmeter. A good fuse or circuit breaker
must indicate a continuityreading (0 ohms). When testing,
be careful not to touch both ohmmeter probes at the same
time with your hands. Ohmmeters set to higher scales will
typically show a false continuity reading through your
body.
Fuse and Circuit Breaker Locations

The 20-amp glass cartridge fuse is a Buss AGA-20
(OMC part No. 510884). The 20-amp plastic blade type
fuse is a Buss ATC-20 (OMC part No. 514021).
1.90" V4 (cross-flow)-The fuse is located as follows:
a. 1995models-A glass cartridge fuse is located in an
inline holder on the port side of the power head, just
below the starter solenoid. There is no provision to
store a spare fuse.
b. 1996-2002 models-A plastic blade type fuse is lo-
cated at the port rear comer of the engine, near the
top of cylinder head. See A, Figure 23. A spare fuse
CHAPTER SEVEN
is contained in the pull-out plug (C, Figure 23) lo- into place. Make sure a spare fuse is installed in the rubber
I
cated in the end of the fuse cover (B). plug (B, Figure 25, typical).
2.60" V4 and V6-The fuse is located as follows: 4. 90" V6 (loop-chargedtlf removed, reinstall the elec- I
a. On 1995 models, a glass cartridge fuse is located in trical component access cover. Tighten the three screws
an inline holder on the port side of the power head, securely. I
just behind the electric startermotor. The fuse holder

snaps into the electrical connector access cover.
There is no provision to store a spare fuse. Circuit Breaker Replacement (V8 Models)
b. On 1996-2002 models, a plastic blade type fuse is
located at the port rear comer of the engine, near the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
top of the cylinder head. See A, Figure 24. A spare 2. Remove the two rear starter motor mounting screws
fuse is contained in the pull-out plug (C, Figure 24) securing the circuit breaker mounting bracket to the starter.
located in the end of the fuse cover (B). 3. Remove the two screws securing the circuit breaker to
3. 90" V4 ( l o o p - c h a r g e d w e fuse is located as follows: its mounting bracket.
a. On 1995 models, a glass cartridge fuse is located in 4. Disconnect the engine harness redpurple lead from the
an inline holder on the port side of the power head, circuit breaker red lead at its bullet connector.
just behind the electric starter motor. There is no 5. Disconnect the circuit breaker red lead from the starter
provision to store a spare fuse. solenoid terminal stud.
b. On 1996-2002 models, a plastic blade type fuse is 6. Remove any tie-straps and cable clamps, then remove
located on the port side of the engine,just behind the
the circuit breaker.
electric starter motor. A spare fuse is contained in
the pull-out plug (C, Figure 24, typical) located in 7. To install the circuit breaker, begin by positioning the
the end of the fuse cover (B). breaker next to its bracket. Install and securely tighten the
two screws.
4. 90" V6 (loop-charged)-A plastic blade type fuse is lo-
cated on the port side of the power head, just above and 8. Reconnect the engine harness redpurple lead to the
slightly behind the electrical component access cover. A circuit breaker red lead at the bullet connector.
spare fuse is contained in the rubber plug just below the
fuse holder.
5. 90" V8 (loop-charged)-A 20-amp circuit breaker is
located on the port side of the power head, just behind the
electric starter motor.
Fuse Replacement (V4 and V6 Models)

1. 90" V6 (loop-charged)-If necessary to gain access to
the fuse, remove the electrical component access cover.
The cover is secured by three screws.
2A. Glass cartridgefuses-Remove the wire locking clip
(or pull the holder out of its mounting bracket), then care-
fully separate the fuse holder and remove the defective
fuse. Discard the fuse.
2B. Plasticfuses-Carefully lift the lock clip and slide the
fuse holder (A, Figure 25) out of the protective cover (or
mounting bracket). Pull the defective fuse out of the fuse
holder. Discard the fuse.
3A. Glass cartridgefuses-Push a new fuse into one end
of the fuse holder. Carefully push the holder halves to-
gether until they are seated. Then install the wire locking
clip over the fuse holder (push the fuse holder into its
mounting bracket).
3B. Plasticfuses-Push a new fuse into the fuse holder un-
til it is seated. Then push the fuse holder into the protective
cover (or mounting bracket) until the lock clip snaps
9. Reconnect the circuit breaker red lead to the starter starter motors used on outboards covered in this manual
solenoid. Make sure the brass nut is tightened securely,but have an inertia-type drive in which external spiral splines
do not strip the brass threads. Coat the connection with on the armature shaft mate with internal s p h e s on the
OMC Black Neoprene Dip. drive assembly.
10. Coat the threads of the two starter motor screws with
OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. N r n
11. Position the mounting bracket to the starter motor and The starter motors used on 60" V4 and V6
install the two screws. Tighten both screws to 14-16 ft.-lb. (loop-charged) models and 90" V6 and V8
(19-21.7 N.m). (loop-charged)models use reduction gears
to increase the torque output of the starter
12. Secure the leads with new tie-straps or the original
motol:
cable clamps.
13. Reconnect the negative battery cable. The starter motor is an intermittent duty electric motor,
capable of producing a very high torque, but only for a brief
ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM time. The high amperage flow through the starter motor
causes the starter motor to overheat very quickly. To pre-
A typical electric starter system consists of the battery, vent overheating, never operate the starter motor continu-
starter solenoid, neutral safety switch (or neutral safety ously for more than 10-15 seconds. AUow the starter motor
linkage), starter motor, starter (or ignition) switch and the to cool for 2-3 minutes before cranking the engine again.
associated wiring. If the starter motor does not crank the engine, check the
On tiller models, a mechanical linkage prevents the battery cables and terminals for loose or corroded connec-
starter button from being depressed unless the shift linkage tions. Correct any problems found. If this does not solve
is in NEUTRAL. the starting problem, refer to Chapter Three for the starting
On remote control models, the neutral safety switch is system troubleshooting procedure.
mounted in the remote control box. Troubleshooting the
electric starter system is covered in Chapter Three. CAUTION
Evinrude/Johnson electric starter motors
use permanent magnets glued inside main
Starter Motor Description housing. Never strike a starter as this will
damage the magnets, leading to total starter
Marine starter motors are very similar in design and failure. Inspect the magnets anytime the
operation to those found on automotive engines. The starter is disassembled. Replace the hous-
ing if the magnets are cracked, damaged or
loose.
Starter Motor Removal/Installation

(90" V4 models)

power head to prevent accidental starting. Then disconnect I

2. Cross-flow models-If equipped with oil-injection, re-
move the 3 screws (and washers) securing the V R O pump~
unit to the air intake cover base. Do not disconnect the fuel,
pulse and oil lines. Pull the pump unit away from the upper
carburetor to allow easier access to the front starter motor
mounting screw. Refer to Chapter Eleven as necessary.
3. Cross-flow models-Remove the 2 screws (Figure 26)
securing the starter solenoid to the intake port cover. DO
not disconnect any electrical leads (other than the ground
lead under the lower screw). Then pull the solenoid away
from the power head to gain access to the starter's lower
mounting screw.
CHAPTER SEVEN
4. Disconnect the starter solenoid-to-starter motor cable

from the starter motor's terminal stud. See A, Figure 27,
typical.
5. Remove the screw and lockwasher (B, Figure 27, typi-
cal) securing the starter motor to the front of the power
head, then remove the two screws and lockwashers (C,
Figure 27, typical) securing the starter to the side of the
power head.
6. Remove the starter motor from the power head.
7. To install the starter motor, begin by applying OMC Nut
Lock threadlocking adhesive to the threads of the three
starter motor mounting screws.
8. Position the starter motor on the power head and install
the mounting screws. Evenly tighten all of the screws
snugly, then tighten the front screw to 14-16 ft.-lb. (19.0-
21.7 N.m) and finally tighten the two side screws to 14-16
ft.-lb. (19.0-21.7 N.m).
9. Connect the starter cable to the starter motor's terminal
stud. Install and tighten the nut securely, then apply OMC
Black Neoprene Dip to the connection.
10. Cross-flow models-If equipped with oil-injection,
reposition the pump unit to the air intake cover base. Install
the three screws (and washers) and evenly tighten them to
18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m).
11. Cross-flowmodels-Reposition the starter solenoid to
the intake port cover. Install and tighten the two screws to
60-84 in.-ib. (6.8-9.5 N.m). ~ a k e s u r the-
e mound lead is
installed under the lower s&w.
12. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative bat-
tery cable when finished.
Starter Motor RemovdInstallation

(60"V4 and V6 Models)
The starter motor may be removed from the power head

without removing the starter drive (bendix) andor the
reduction gear. The starter solenoid is mounted directly to
the bottom of the starter motor and is removed with the
starter motor. If the bendix andor reduction gear require
servicing, refer to Starter drive servicing (60" V4 and V6
[loop-charged] models) in the following section.
To remove and install the starter and solenoid assembly,
proceed as follows:
2. V4 models-Remove the port lower split cowl as de-
scribed in Power head removaVinstallation in Chapter
Eight.
3. Remove the two screws (A, Figure 28) securing the
electrical connector cover (B) to the port cylinder head.
Remove the cover.
4. Note the location and orientation of the leads and cables 6. If other ground (black) leads are attached to the
connected to the starter solenoid, then disconnect all leads bottom of the starter motor, note the orientation of the
and cables from the solenoid (except the metal strap con- lead(s), then remove the screw securing these leads to
nected directly to the starter motor's terminal stud). the starter. I
5. Remove the negative battery cable from the bottom of 7. Remove the two screws securing the top of the
the starter motor. The cable's mounting screw is also the to the power head. Remove the starter
starter motor's lower mounting screw. motor assembly from the power head. I
8. To install the starter motor assembly to the power head,
proceed as follows: I
l
a. Make sure the metal strap is connected between thq
solenoid's large front stud and the starter motor's
terminal stud and that both nuts are securely tight-
ened.
b. Coat the metal strap and both connections with
OMC Black Neoprene Dip. i
c. If removed, install the rubber insulating cap over thel
solenoid's large front stud.
9. Coat the threads of the three starter motor mounting
screws with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Then1
position the starter assembly to the power head and installl
the two upper screws. Evenly tighten both screws to 15-171
ft.-lb. (20.3-23.0 N-m).
10. Install the lower mounting screw and negative bat-'
tery cable. Tighten the screw to 15-17 ft.-lb. (20.3-23.01
N-m). Then coat the connection with OMC Black Neo-,
prene Dip. I
11. If other ground (black) leads were attached to the)
bottom of the starter motor, reconnect the leads as noted I
on removal. Tighten the connection securely.
12. Reconnect all leads and cables to the starter solenoid I
as noted on disassembly. Tighten all connections securely,
then coat all connections (except the positive battery cable I
I
connection) with OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
13. Position the electrical connector cover (B, Figure 28) )
to the power head. Secure the cover with two screws (A, I
Figure 28). Tighten both screws securely. I
14. V4 models-Install the port lower split cowl as de- 1
scribed in Power head re&va~install~ionin Chapter )
I
Eight. I
tery cable when finished. 1
I
Starter Drive and Reduction Gear Servicing
(60"V4 and V6 Models) 1
The starter drive (bendix) and reduction gear (Figure
29) can be serviced without removing the electric starter
motor. To service the starter drive andlor reduction gears,
proceed as follows:
1. Remove the flywheel as described later in this chapter.
2. Lift the starter drive assembly from the reduction gear
as shown in Figure 30. Locate and secure the wave washer
238 CHAPTER SEVEN
STARTER MOTOR DRIVE AND

REDUCTION GEAR ASSEMBLY (60"MODELS)
1. Retaining ring 14. Lockwasher

2. Drive gear 15. Nut
3. Drive end cap 16. Through-bolt
4. Frame assembly 17. Wave washer
5. Insulated brushes 18. Bushing
6. Armature 19. Retaining ring
7. Brush screw 20. Spacer
8. Ground brushes 21. Spring
9. Brush spring 22. Drive pinion assembly
10. Brush holder 23. Pinion shaft
11. Commutator end cap 24. Driven gear
12. Insulating washer 25. Pinion shaft-to-
13. Nut crankcase bushing
and bushing (17 and 18, Figure 31) from the top of the block. If the bushing sticks, use a suitable mandrel and tap
starter drive shaft. the bushing into the cylinder block until it is seated.
3. Remove the reduction gear (Figure 32) from the cylin- 9. Refer to Figure 31 and assemble the drive shaft as
der block. follows:
4. To disassemble the drive shaft, pull down on the cup to a. Lightly lubricate the spiral splines on the drive shaft
expose the retaining ring as shown in Figure 33. Remove with OMC Starter Pinion (bendix) Lubricant.
the ring with retaining ring pliers (part No. 325937 [or b. Install the bendix over the drive shaft and engage it
equivalent]). Refer to Chapter Eight for an illustration of to the splines.
the pliers. Slide the drive pinion return spring (21, Figure c. Install the spring and cup over the drive shaft. The
31) and the drive pinion (22) from the drive shaft (23). counter-bored end of the cup must face upward.
5. If the bushing (25, Figure 31) requires replacement, d. Pull the cup down (compressing the spring) to ex-
pull it from the cylinder block and discard it. If the bushing pose the retaining ring groove. Install the retaining
sticks, use a suitable two-jaw puller head and slide ham- ring over the drive shaft and seat it into the drive shaft
mer, such as two-jaw puller head part No. 432131 and slide groove as shown in Figure 33.
hammer part No. 432128. e. Pull the cup upward until it snaps into position over
6. If the starter motor gear (2, Figure 31) requires replace- the retaining ring. If necessary, use two pairs of pliers
ment, remove the retaining ring (1) with a suitable pair of to pull the cup into position. I
snap ring pliers and lift the gear from the armature shaft. Lubricate the bearing surfaces (top and bottom) of
7. To assemble, begin by installing the starter motor gear the drive shaft with OMC Moly Lube.
onto the armature shaft. Make sure the splines are fully 10. Iabricate the reduction gear teeth with OMC Moly
engaged and that the gear is seated on the shaft. Install the Lube.Then place the gear over the bushing in the cylinder
snap ring, making sure the sharp edge of the ring faces block. The recessed side of the gear must face up. I
upward and that the ring is fully seated into the armature 11. Insert the drive shaft assembly into the bushing and
shaft groove. engage the reduction gear.
8. Lubricate the bushing (25, Figure 31) with OMC Moly 12. Lubricate the bushing and wave washer (17 and 18,
Lube. If removed, install the bushing into the cylinder Figure 31) with OMC Moly Lube. Install the bushing and I
wave washer over the drive shaft.

13. Install the flywheel as described later in this chapter.
Starter Motor Removal/Installation

(90" V6 and VS [Loop-Charged]Models)
2. Disconnect the starter solenoid-to-starter motor cable
from the starter motor's terminal stud.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable and all small
ground (black) leads from the stud at the top of the starter
motor.
4. Remove the two screws and lockwashers securing th
starter motor bracket to the power head.
5. Remove the two screws and lockwashers securing th
top of the starter motor to the power head. Remove th
starter assembly from the power head.
6. To install the starter motor, begin by applying OMC Nu
Lock threadlocking adhesive to the threads of the fo
starter motor mounting screws.
7. Position the starter motor on the power head and i
the four mounting screws and lockwashers. Evenly tig
all of the screws to 14-16 ft.-lb. (19.0-21.7 N-m).
8. Connect the small ground (black) leads and the negativ
battery cable to the stud at the top of the starter. Tighte
240 CHAPTER SEVEN
the connection securely, then apply OMC Black Neoprene

Dip to the connection.
9. Connect the starter cable to the starter motor's terminal
stud. Install and tighten the nut securely, then apply OMC
Black Neoprene Dip to the connection.
tery cable when finished.
Starter Motor Disassembly/Assembly

(90" V4 Models)
This starter uses a friction drive assembly. If any lubri-

cant contacts the bendix-to-drive base mating surface (Fig-
ure 3 4 , the starter drive will not operate. Keep these
@ STARTER MOTOR (90"V4 MODELS)
1. Protective cap
2. Retaining ring
3. Cupped spacer
4. Return spring
5. Grooved spacer
6. Bendix (pinion gear)
7. Drive base
8. Drive end cap
9. Through-bolt
10. Armature
11. Starter housing
12. Front mounting screw
and lockwasher
13. Side mounting screw
and lockwasher
14. Positive brush set and stud
15. Internal insulator
16. Outer insulator
17. Washer
18. Nut
19. Negative brush and lead
20. Brush spring
21. Screw and washer
22. Brush plate
23. Lower end cap
surfaces clean and dry.Refer to Figure 35 for this proce- 7. If brush replacement is necessary, remove the screws
dure. (21, Figure 35) holding the negative brushes and the nut
1. Pull the protective cap from the top of the armature (18), washer (17), insulators (15 and 16) holding the ter-
shaft. See Figure 36. minal stud and the positive brushes (14) to the end cap.
2. Pull the cupped spacer downward to expose the retain- 8. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush plate.
ing ring as shown in Figure 37. Then remove the ring with Then separate the brush plate from the end cap. Discard
retaining ring pliers part No. 325937 or equivalent. the brushes and springs.
9. Clean and inspect all components as described in
3. Remove the spring, grooved spacer, bendix and the
Starter motor cleaning and inspection (all models).
drive base. See 4-7, Figure 35.
10. To assemble the starter, proceed as follows:
4. Scribe match marks across the starter housing and both a. Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the armature with
the upper and lower end caps to ensure proper orientation one drop of SAE 10 engine oil.
on assembly.
b. Lightly lubricate the armature shaft's spiral splines I
5. Remove the two through-bolts (9, Figure 35). Remove and the bearing area above the splines with OMC
the drive end cap and armature assembly from the housing, Starter Pinion Lubricant.
then slide the drive end cap from the armature. Locate and c. Apply one drop of SAE 10 engine oil to the threaded
secure the thrust washer located between the drive end cap area of both through-bolts.
and armature. 11. If removed, install a new terminal stud and positive
6. Separate the lower end cap and brush plate assembly brush set assembly into the end cap. The longest brush lead
from the housing. must be pressed into the slot as shown in Figure 38. Make
@ STARTER BRUSH REPLACEMENT

(POSITIVE BRUSH SET)
1. Terminal stud
2. Long lead
3. Push lead into slot
CHAPTER SEVEN
sure the terminal stud passes through the inner insulator Starter Motor DisassemblyIAssembly
(15, Figure 35) first, then install the outer insulator (16), (60"V4 and V6 Models)
washer (17) and nut (18). Tighten the nut securely.
12. Position the brush plate into the end cap and install the
negative brushes into it. Secure the brush plate and the Refer to Figure 42 for this procedure.
negative brush leads with the screws and lock washers. See
1. Remove the retaining ring securing the drive gear to the
Figure 39. Tighten both screws securely.
armature shaft with a suitable pair of snap ring pliers. Then
13. Install the annature into the starter housing. Allow the slide the drive gear from the armature shaft.
starter housing magnets to position the armature.
2. Remove the nut and washer securing the metal strap to
NOTE the terminal stud at the bottom of the starter housing. Then
A brush retaining tool can befashionedfrom remove the two screws and lockwashers securing the sole-
a putty hife. Cut or grinda 112 in. (12.7mm) noid bracket to the end cap. Remove the solenoid and metal
wide slot, approximately 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) strap from the lower end cap.
deep, down the center of the putty knife. See
Figure 40.
14. Fit all four springs and brushes into the brush plate and
end cap assembly. Hold the brushes compressed with a
suitable tool (Figure 41). STARTER BRUSH REPLACEMENT
15. While holding the brushes compressed,carefully pilot (BRUSH PLATE INSTALLATION)
the annature into the end cap bushing, then remove the tool
once the armature firmly contacts the tool. Rotate the end
cap to align the scribe marks.
16. Install the thrust washer over the armature. Then care-
fully slide the drive end cap over the armature shaft and
seat it to the starter housing. Rotate the drive end cap to
align the scribe marks, then install the through-bolts.
Evenly tighten the through-bolts to 95-100 in.-lb. (10.7-
11.3 N-m).
17. Apply OMC Black Neoprene Dip to both end cap-to-
housing seams and to both through-bolt-to-end cap seams.
NOTE
Do not allow any lubricant or sealant to
contact the bendix-to-drive base mating sur-
faces. Keep these surfaces clean and dry.
18. Install the drive base (7, Figure 35), bendix (6),
grooved spacer (5), spring (4) and cupped spacer (3) over
the armature shaft. Pull downward on the cupped spacer to
expose the retaining ring groove, then install a new retain-
ing ring (2, Figure 35) into the groove. Release the cupped
spacer and make sure it snaps up and over the retaining
ring, locking it in place.
19. Install the protective cap (1, Figure 35) over the
armature shaft and make sure it snaps in place on the 1. Positive brushes
grooved spacer. 2. Negative brushes
3. Brush plate
20. Test the starter's no-load current draw as described in 4. Screws
Chapter Three.
21. Install the starter motor as described in this chapter.
3. Scribe match marks across the starter housing and both 9. To assemble the starter,begin by lubricating the bearing
the upper and lower end caps to ensure proper orientation surfaces of the armature with one drop of SAE 10 engine
on assembly. oil. Then lightly lubricate the armature shaft's splines with
4. Remove the two through-bolts (14, Figure 42), then OMC Moly Lube.
remove the drive end cap and armature assembly from the 10. Ifremoved, refer to Figure 43 and install new brushes
housing. Slide the drive end cap from the armature, then as follows:
locate and secure the thrust washer located between the end a. Install a new terminal stud and positive brush set
cap and armature. assembly into the end cap. The longest brush lead
5. Separate the end cap and brush plate assembly from the must be pressed into the slot as shown in Figure 38.
housing. Make sure the terminal stud passes through the inner
6. If brush replacement is necessary, remove the screws insulator (Figure 43) first, then install the outer
(7, Figure 42) holding the negative brushes and the nut insulator (12, Figure 42) and nut (13). Tighten the
(13) and insulating washer (12) holding the terminal stud nut securely.
and the positive brushes (6) to the end cap. b. Position the brush plate into the end cap and install
7. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush plate. the negative brushes into it. Secure the brush plate
Then separate the brush plate from the end cap. Discard and the negative brush leads with the screws. See
the brushes and springs. Figure 39. Tighten both screws securely.
8. Clean and inspect all components as described in 11. Install the armature into the starter housing. Allow the
Starter motor cleaning and inspection (all models). starter housing magnets to position the armature.
NOTE
A brush retaining tool can befashionedffom
a putty knife. Cut or grind a 1/2 in. (12.7mm)
wide slot, appmximately 1-1/2 in. (38 mm)
deep, down the center of the putty knife. See
Clearance for Figure 40.
armature shaft
I
-
-
12. Fit all four springs and brushes into the brush plate and
end cap assembly. Hold the brushes compressed with a
suitable tool (Figure 41).
Putty knife t 13. While holding the brushes compressed, carefully pilot
the armature (and housing) into the end cap bushing, then
remove the tool once the armature M y contacts the tool.
Rotate the end cap to align the scribe marks.
14. Install the thrust washer over the armature. Then care-
fully slide the drive end cap over the armature shaft and ~
seat it to the starter housing.
15. Apply OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive to the
threaded area of both through bolts. Then rotate the drive
end cap to align the scribe marks and install the through- I
bolts. Evenly tighten both through-bolts to 50-60 in.-lb.
(5.7-6.8 N-m).
16. Apply OMC Black Neoprene Dip to both end cap-to-
housing seams and to both through-bolt-to-end cap seams.
17. Install the drive gear over the armature shaft. Then
install the retaining ring, making sure it fully seats in the
armature shaft groove. The sharp side of the retaining ring
must face away from the drive gear.
18. Test the starter's no-load current draw as described in
Chapter Three.
19. Install the starter solenoid to the lower end cap as
follows: 1 1
244 CHAPTER SEVEN
STARTER MOTOR
(60"V4 AND V6)
1. Retaining rlng 8. Negative brush

2. Drive gear and lead
3. Drive end cap 9. Brush spring
4. Starter housing 10. Brush plate
5. Armature 11. Lower end cap
6. Positive brush set 12. Outer insulator
and stud 13. Nut
7. Screw 14. Through-bolt
a. Make sure the rubber grommet is positioned around 2. Remove the three screws securing the drive end housing
the solenoid and will isolate the solenoid from the (2, Figure 44) to the gear housing (15). Lift the drive end
end cap (and solenoid bracket). housing from the starter. Locate and secure the wavq
b. Position the solenoid to the end cap and place the washer (1, Figure 45) and bushing (2).
bracket over the solenoid. Install and tighten the two 3. Lift the pinion gear and drive shaft assembly from thy
screws (and lockwashers) finger-tight at this time. starter housing.
c. Install the metal strap over the starter's terminal stud, 4. To disassemble the drive shaft, proceed as follows:
I
then tighten the two solenoid bracket screws se- a. Pull down on the cupped spacer to expose the retain-
curely. ing ring as shown in Figure 46. If the cup sticks,
d. Secure the metal strap with nuts and lockwashers. place a deep socket over the drive shaft as shown in
Tighten the nuts securely. Figure 47 and lightly tap it to lower the cup.
e. Coat the strap and its connections with OMC Black b. Remove the ring with retaining ring pliers part No: I
I
Neoprene Dip. 325937 (or equivalent). I
20. Install the starter motor assembly as described pre- c. Slide the bendix return spring (7, Figure 44) and the
viously in this chapter. bendix (8) from the drive shaft (9). I
5. Locate and secure the weather cover (Figure 48), the?
remove the reduction (driven) near. Locate and secure the
r "
Starter Motor Disassembly/Assembly thrust washer (12, Figure 44) from the gear housing (or
(90" V6 and V8 [Loop-Charged]Models) the bottom of the reduction gear).
I
6. Using a pair of snap - ring pliers, remove the drive ge&

- -
This starter uses an integral gear reduction drive assem- retaining ring from the armature shaft. Then slide the drivk
bly. Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. I
1. Remove the two nuts and washers holding the bracket

gear from the armature shaft.
7. Scribe match marks across the starter housing and bot?
~
(30, Figure 44) to the bottom of the starter assembly. the gear housing and lower end cap to ensure proper
Remove the bracket and washers. orientation on reassembly. I
8. Remove the two through-bolts (29, Figure 44). el
move the lower end cap and armature assembly from the
housing. ~
9. Slide the lower end cap from the armature. Locate and
secure the insulating button from the lower end of the
Ground brushes armature (or inside the lower end cap bushing). Replace
wlth screws the button if it is damaged or worn. I
10. Inspect the locating ring (26, Figure 44) on the upper
end of the armature shaft.If the ring is missing or damaged,
replace it. I
11. Separate the starter housing from the gear housing.

Then locate and secure the thrust washer (2, Figure 491)
I
from between the armature and the gear housing. 1
Brush holder
12. If brush replacement is necessary, remove the screwb
(16, Figure 44) holding the negative brushes and the nut
Insulator (24), washer (23), insulators (22 and 21) holding the ter:
mind stud and the positive brushes (18) to the gear hou$
ing. I
13. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush plate.
Then separate the brush plate from the gear housing.
Discard the brushes and springs. 1
14. Clean and inspect all components as described ih
Starter motor cleaning and inspection (all models).
15. To assemble the starter, proceed as follows:
1I
a. Lightly lubricate the bearing surfaces of the armaturp
and drive shaft with OMC Extreme Pressure Grease.
246 CHAPTER SEVEN
I STARTER MOTOR (90"V6 AND V8 [LOOP-CHARGEDD
1. Screw and washer 17. Negative brushes

2. Drive end housing 18. Positive brush
3. Wave washer set and stud
4. Spacer 19. Spring
5. Retaining ring 20. Brush plate
6. Cup 21. inner insulator
7. Return spring 22. Outer insulator
8. Bendix 23. Flat washer
9. Drive shatt 24. Nut
10. Weather cover 25. Starter housing
11. Reduction (driven) gear 26. Locating ring groove
12. Thrust washer 27. Armature
13. Retaining ring 28. Lower end cap
14. Drive gear 29. Through-bolt
15. Gear housing 30. Mounting bracket
16. Screw 31. Nut and washer
b. Lightly lubricate the annature shaft splines and the

drive shaft spiral splines with OMC Starter Pinion
(Bendix) Lubricant.
16. If removed, install a new terminal stud and positive
brush set assembly into the gear housing. The longest
brush lead must be pressed into the slot as shown in Figure
38. Make sure the terminal stud passes through the inner
insulator (21, Figure 44) first, then install the outer insu-
lator (22), washer (23) and nut (24). Tighten the nut se-
curely.
17. Position the brush plate into the gear housing and
install the negative brushes into it. Secure the brush plate
1. Wave washer
2. Bushing
3. Cupped spacer
4. Starter drive (Bendix)
1. Weather cover
2. Reduction (driven) gear
Deep socket
1. Armature
CUP
2. Thrust washer
Drive assembly 3. Gear housing
4. Gear housing
5. Lower end cap
CHAPTER SEVEN
and the negative brush leads with the screws and lockwash- Release the cupped spacer and make sure it snaps up and
ers. See Figure 39. Tighten both screws securely. over the retaining ring, locking it in place.
18. Install the armature into the starter housing. Allow the 29. Lubricate the spacer (4, Figure 4 4 , wave washer (3)
starter housing magnets to position the armature. Then and the bushing in the drive end housing (2) with OMC
install the thrust washer (2, Figure 49) over the armature. Starter Pinion Lubricant.
30. Install the bushing over the drive shaft, then install the
NOTE wave washer. Install the drive end housing onto the starter
A brush retaining tool can be fashionedffom
assembly and align the screw holes. Install the three screws
aputty knife. Cut or grind a 112in. (12.7mm)
wide slot, approximately 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) and washers. Evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb.
deep, down the center of the putty knife. See (6.8-9.6 Ngm).
Figure 40. 31. Test the starter's no-load current draw as described in
Chapter Three.
19. Fit all four springs and brushes into the brush plate and 32. Install the starter motor as described previously in this
end cap assembly. Hold the brushes compressed with a chapter.
suitable tool (Figure 41).
20. While holding the brushes compressed,carefully pilot
the armature (and housing) into the gear housing, then Starter Motor Cleaning and Inspection
remove the tool once the armature firmly contacts the tool. (All Models)
Rotate the gear housing to align the scribe marks.
21. Install the insulating button into the bushing in the 1. Clean the armature and brush plate using aerosol elec-
lower end cap. Then carefully slide the lower end cap over trical parts cleaner (available at automotive parts stores).
the armature shaft and seat it to the starter housing. Rotate Then blow the parts dry with compressed air.
the lower end cap to align the scribe marks 2. Wash all other parts in a mild solvent, such as mineral
22. Apply OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive to the spirits, then thoroughlyrinse with hot water. Blow the parts
threads of the through-bolts. Then install and evenly dry with compressed air.
tighten the bolts to 50-65 in.-lb. (5.7-7.3 N-m).
23. Apply OMC Black Neoprene Dip to the gear housing
and lower end cap-to-housing seams and to both through-
bolt-to-end cap seams.
24. Position the mounting bracket over the through-bolts.
Coat the exposed threads of the through-bolts with OMC
Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install and evenly
tighten the nuts (and washers) to 50-65 in.-lb. (5.7-7.3
N-m).
25. Install the drive gear over the armature shaft splines.
Then install the retaining ring with the sharp edge facing
away from the gear. Make sure the ring has seated in the
armature shaft groove.
26. Lubricate the thrust washer and reduction gear (12 and
11,Figure 44) with OMC Extreme Pressure Grease. Install
the thrust washer into the gear housing and align it with
the bushing in the bottom of the housing. Then carefully
position the reduction gear over the washer.
27. Install the weather cover (1, Figure 48) into the gear
housing and over the reduction gear (2). Then install the
drive shaft (9, Figure 44) through the weather cover,
reduction gear and thrust washer, making sure the drive
shaft pilots into the bushing in the gear housing.
28. Install the bendix (8, Figure 44), return spring (7) and
cupped spacer (6) over the drive shaft. Pull downward on
the cupped spacer to expose the retaining ring groove, then
install a new retaining ring (5, Figure 44) into the groove.
3. Inspect the starter brushes in the end cap. Replace the The solenoid's two small terminals are the control cir-
brushes as a set if any are pitted, chipped, oil soaked or cuits of the solenoid. When battery voltage is applied to
excessively worn (half of their original size). these terminals, the solenoid is energized and the large
4. Inspect the bendix (pinion gear) for cracked, chipped terminals will have a closed circuit across them, allowing
or excessively worn teeth and any other damage. On gear electricity to flow from the battery to the starter motor.
reduction models, also inspect the reduction (driven) gear. The polarity of the small terminals is not important as
5. Inspect the armature shaft bushings in the drive end and long as one is positive and one is negative. One small lead
lower end caps or gear housing for excessive wear or other is always yellowlred, while the other small lead is black.
damage. Replace either end cap or the gear housing as
necessary. The starter solenoid is always located near the starter
6. Inspect the bearing and splined surfaces of the armature motor on all 90" models. See Figure 50, typical. On 60"
shaft and drive shaft (gear reduction models) for excessive V4 and V6 models, the solenoid is mounted on the starter's
wear, grooving, indications of overheating and/or corro- lower end cap (Figure 51). Refer to Chapter Three for
sion and damaged or worn splines. Replace the armature troubleshooting procedures.
andlor drive shaft as necessary.
7. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between each
commutator segment and the armature shaft. The armature Starter solenoid removaUinstallation 1
must be replaced if any continuity is noted.
8. Clean the commutator using 300 grade emery cloth. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Clean any copper particles or other contamination from 2. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the
between the commutator segments. power head to prevent accidental starting.
9. If the commutator is pitted, rough or worn unevenly, it 3A. 60" V4 and V6 models-Remove the starter motor and
can be resurfaced or replaced. If the armature shows water solenoid assembly as described in this chapter.
or overheat damage, have it checked for shorted windings 3B. 90" models-Note the location and position of all
using an armature growler. Most automotive electrical wires, cables and/or metal straps on the starter solenoid
shops can perform commutator resurfacing and armature terminal studs andlor mounting screws.
testing.
10. Inspect the starter housing for loose, cracked, chipped a. Remove the nuts, lockwashers and all electrical ca-
or damaged magnets. The magnets must strongly attract bles or metal straps from the two large solenoid
any steel or iron object held inside the starter housing. terminals.
Replace the housing if the magnets are weak, loose, b. Remove the nuts, lockwashers and electrical leads
cracked, chipped or damaged. from the two small solenoid terminals.
4. Remove the two solenoid mounting screws, then re-
move the solenoid from the power head or starter motor.
Starter Solenoid
Pull the mounting bracket from the solenoid.
The solenoid's two large tenninals always carry the 5. Remove the rubber grommet from around the solenoid
electrical load from the battery to the starter motor. The and installthe grommet onto the new solenoid.Then install
large terminals have an open circuit across them when the the mounting bracket over the rubber grommet.
solenoid is not energized. 6. To install the solenoid, position the solenoid on the
power head or starter motor. Make sure any ground leads
or ground straps are reconnected to the mounting screws
as noted on removal. Tighten both mounting screws se-
curely.
7A. 60" V4 and V6 models-Install the starter motor and
solenoid assembly as described previously in this chapter.
7B. 90"models-Install the small leads, lockwashers and
nuts. Then install the large cables, lockwashers and nuts.
Tighten all four nuts securely.
8. Make sure the positive battery cable is covered with a
protective boot as shown in Figure 50, typical. Then
reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative battery
cable.
250 CHAPTER SEVEN
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
The neutral safety switch is designed to prevent electric

starter operation unless the shift linkage is in the NEU-
TRAL position. If the electric starter motor can be engaged
when the shift linkage is in NEUTRAL, but cannot be
engaged when the shift linkage is in FORWARD or RE-
VERSE gear, the switch is operating correctly.
Tiller handle models are equipped with mechanical link-
age that prevents the operator from fully depressing the
starter button unless the shift linkage is in NEUTRAL.
Refer to Chapter Nine for neutral safety linkage adjust-
ment procedures.
All remote control models must be equipped with a
neutral safety switch mounted in the control box. On
standard OMC side mount control boxes, the switch is
located inside the remote control assembly and is not
adjustable. Refer to Chapter Three for troubleshooting
procedures and Chapter Twelve for standard control box
disassembly/reassemblyprocedures.
FLYWHEEL SERVICE
The flywheel magnets must posses an extremely strong

charge in order to produce sufficient voltage to correctly
I
, operate the ignition and charging systems. Weak magnets
can cause misleading or erratic results during trou-
bleshooting, which can lead to the unnecessary replace-
ment of good parts.
On models using magnets glued to the outer rim of the
flywheel (Figure 52), loose magnets can be glued back in
place using epoxy repair kit part No. 431929 (or equiva-
lent). The magnets must be positioned precisely in their
original location and orientation (polarity), and must not
be cracked, chipped or broken.
On all 90" models, the magnets around the flywheel's
inner hub (sensor coil magnets) cannot be repaired. See
Figure 53. Should the magnets in the hub become loose,
shift position or be cracked the flywheel must be replaced.
On 60" V4 and V6 models, there are no sensor coil
magnets. Instead a plastic encoder ring mounted to the top
of the crankshaft (Figure 54) is used to trigger the optical
sensor.
If oil is present under the flywheel, the upper crankshaft
seal may be leaking. Seal replacement is covered in Chap-
ter Eight.
Since the flywheel contains permanent magnets, the
flywheel must never be struck with a hammer. Striking the
flywheel andlor magnets can cause the magnets to lose
their charge, leading to weak, erratic spark. Crankshafts
are made of hardened steel, therefore striking the flywheel
can also permanently damage the crankshaft. Use only the 1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the
recommended flywheel puller tools or their equivalents. power head to prevent accidental starting.Then disconnect
After removal, inspect the flywheel, key and crankshaft the negative battery cable.
as directed in Cleaning and inspection. Replace all suspect 2. Power steering models-Proceed as follows:
components. Refer to Table 7 for flywheel nut torque a. Loosen the upper and lower pivot screws and nuts
values. (C, Figure 56), then loosen the belt tensioner
adjustment nuts (D) to relieve all tension on the
belt.
Removal/Installation (90" Models) b. Remove the six screws (A, Figure 56) holding the
pulley to the flywheel.
The OMC universal puller kit (part No. 378103) is 3. Hold the flywheel with a ring gear tool (A, Figure 57).
highly recommended for flywheel removal on these mod- Remove the flywheel nut using an appropriate socket and
els. breaker bar (B, Figure 57).
To hold the flywheel when loosening or tightening the 4. Lubricate the puller pressing screw threads and the end
flywheel nut, a ring gear holding tool (such as OMC part of the crankshaft with OMC Moly Lube. Place the puller
No. 771311) is recommended. See A, Figure 55. Do not body over the end of the crankshaft. Make sure the flat side
use a strap wrench on a flywheel with a ring gear. of the puller plate is facing up.
To remove and install the flywheel, proceed as follows: 5. Secure the puller plate to the flywheel using three
screws (part No. 309492) and three washers (part No.
307639). Tighten the puller screws securely. I
6. Hold the puller body with the puller handle (A, Figure
58) and tighten the pressing screw (B) until the flywheel
breaks free from the crankshafttaper. Then lift the flywheel
and puller assembly off the crankshaft. Remove the puller
assembly from the flywheel.
7. Remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft. Grasp
the upper end of the key with a pair of side cutters, then
pull the key from the groove by rotating it down towards
the power head.
8. Inspect and clean the flywheel, key and crankshaft as
described in Flywheel cleaning and inspection in the fol-
lowing section.
9. To install the flywheel, begin by making certain the
flywheel and crankshaft tapers are clean and dry.
NOTE
The single, indented mark on the jlywheel
key must face down when installed.
252 CHAPTER SEVEN
10. Install the flywheel key into the crankshaft groove to use or repair a damaged or defective
with the single indent mark facing down. The key's outer flywheel.
edge must be parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft as
shown in Figure 59. 1. Inspect the entire flywheel for cracks, chips, mechani-
11. Carefully lower the flywheel onto the crankshaft, cal damage, wear and corrosion.
making sure the key slot in the flywheel aligns with the key 2. Carefully inspect the flywheel and crankshaft tapers for
in the crankshaft. cracks, wear, corrosion and metal transfer.
12. Coat the threads of the flywheel nut with OMC Gasket
Sealing Compound. Then thread the nut onto the crank- 3. Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft key slots for wear,
shaft. cracks or damage.
13. Hold the flywheel with a ring gear tool (A, Figure 55) 4. Carefully inspect the flywheel key. Replace the key if
and tighten the nut to 100-105ft.-lb. (135.6-142.4 N.m) on it is in questionable condition.
cross-flow models or 140-150ft.-lb. (189.8-203.4 N.m) on 5. Inspect the flywheel for loose, cracked or damaged
loop-charged models. magnets. The flywheel must be replaced if any of the
14. Power steering models-Proceed as follows: magnets are cracked or damaged.
a. Coat the threads of the pulley mounting screw
threads with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhe- a. If a magnet glued to the outer diameter has become
sive. Make sure the belt is correctly routed around loose (but is not damaged in any way), it can be
the flywheel, pump and tensioner pulleys, then hold reattached with flywheel magnet epoxy (part No.
the flywheel pulley against the flywheel and install
the screws (A, Figure 56). Evenly tighten the screws
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.9-9.5 N.m).
NOTE
Ifbelt tension gauge (part No. 984850)is not
available, use an automotive belt tension
gauge. Take the reading in the same position
as that shown in Figure 60 and adjust the
tension until the gauge reads 25-30 lb. ten-
sion.
b. Hold belt tension gauge (part No. 984850) over the

belt as shown in Figure 60. Adjust the belt tensioner
nuts (D, Figure 56) until the gauge's plunger is flush
with the end of the handle. Then tighten the tensioner
nuts (D, Figure 56) and the upper and lower pivot
screws and nuts (C) to 108-132 in.-lb. (12.2-14.9
N.m).
NOTE
I f a new power steering belt has been in-
stalled, recheck the tension afer 10 hours of
operation.
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark
plug leads when finished.
Plywheel Cleaning and Inspection

(WModels)
WARNING
Damaged or defectiveflywheels must be re-
placed. A damaged or defectiveflywheel may
fly apart at higher engine speeds, throwing
fragments over a large area. Do not attempt
43 1929).The magnet must be reinstalled in its origi- these models. Attempting to remove or install the flywheel
nal position and orientation (polarity). by hand will result in personal injury as the flywheel
b. If the sensor magnets around the inner hub are loose, magnets will pull the flywheel downward, trapping yo&
the flywheel must be replaced. fingers between the power head and the ring gear teeth.
6. Clean the flywheel and crankshaft tapers with a suitable To hold the flywheel when loosening or tightening the
solvent and blow dry with compressed air. The tapers must flywheel screws, a ring gear holding tool (such as OMC
be clean, dry and free of oil or other contamination. part No. 771311) is recommended. Do not use a strap
wrench on a flywheel with a ring gear.
Flywheel Removal/Installation To remove and install the flywheel, proceed as follow$:
(60"Models) 1. Remove all of the spark plugs to prevent accidental
starting. Then discomect the negative battery cable.
The OMC Flywheel RemoverDnstaller (part No. 2. Remove the timing wheel cover and the voltage regu-
378103) is required for flywheel removaYinstallation on lator cover. There are three screws (A, Figure 61) securing
CHAPTER SEVEN
the timing wheel cover and four screws (B) securing the
voltage regulator cover. TWO of the regulator cover screws
are hidden by the flywheel cover.
3. Carefully lift the tab on the timing sensor connector (A,
Figure 62) and pull the connector from the sensor.
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing wheel
indicates approximately 30" ATDC (after top dead center).
Install OMC piston stop tool (part No. 384887) into the
No. 1 spark plug hole. See Figure 63. Screw the body of
the tool in until it is bottomed, then turn the tool plunger
inward until it contacts the piston. Secure the plunger in
place by tightening the knurled locking ring.
5. Hold the piston firmly against the tool by applying
counterclockwise turning pressure against the flywheel.
Then remove the screw and washer (B, Figure 62) securing
the timing encoder wheel to the top of the crankshaft. Lift
the wheel from the crankshaft. If necessary, remove the
timing pointer to allow removal of the timing wheel.
6. Remove the piston stop tool from the No. 1 cylinder.
7. Remove the four screws (two each retainer) securing
the spark and throttle control shafts to the flywheel cover.
See A, Figure 64 (spark control shaft) and B, Figure 64
(throttle control shaft).
8. Remove the 17 screws securing the flywheel cover to
the top of the power head. All of the screws are on the
perimeter of the cover. Lift the cover slightly and place a

shop towel between the cover and the power head as shown
in Figure 65. Drive the spark control shaft (A, Figure 65)
from the control arm using a suitable punch (B)
9. Pull the control shaft retainers (A and B, Figure 66)
from the flywheel cover. Then remove the flywheel cover
from the power head. Locate and secure the wave washer
and bushing from the starter drive. See Figure 67.
10. Hold the flywheel with aring gear tool (A, Figure 68).
Remove the five flywheel screws using an appropriate
socket (B, Figure 68). Discard the screws.
11. Install flywheel removerlinstaller (part No. 434649
[or equivalent]) onto the flywheel. ~ a k sure
e the tool is 1
&stalled into the two fly&heel holes that are threaded.
Tighten the tool's screws (A, Figure 69) securely, then
tighten the puller screw (B) until the flywheel is lifted free
from the power head.
12. Lift the flywheel from the power head, then remove
the tool.
13. Inspect and clean the flywheel and crankshaft as de-
scribed in Flywheel cleaning and inspection in the follow-
ing section.
14. To install the flywheel, begin by making certain the
flywheel and crankshaft mating surfaces are clean and dry.
Do not attempt to install the flywheel by 1

hand. The magnets will trap your fingers
between the ring gear and the power head.
Use flywheel remover/installer part No.
434649 to install the flywheel.
15. If removed, reinstall the flywheel removerlinstaller
tool onto the flywheel. Make sure the puller screw (B,
Figure 69) is threaded into the tool as far as possible.
16. Carefully set the flywheel and tool onto the crank-
shaft. Rotate the flywheel as necessary to align the roll pin,
then loosen the puller screw to lower the flywheel onto the
crankshaft. Once it is seated to the crankshaft, remove the
tool.
17. Install five new screws. Hold the flywheel with a ring
gear tool and tighten the screws to 23-25 ft.-lb. (31.2-33.9 1
~ . m in
) the crossing pattern shown in Figure 70.
18. Lubricate the bushing and wave washer with OMC
Extreme Pressure Grease. Install the bushing and wave
washer onto the starter drive as shown in Figure 67.
19. Lubricate the bushing in the flywheel cover with OMC
Extreme Pressure Grease. Carefully install the flywheel
cover onto the power head making sure the starter drive
pilots into the cover's bushing.
20. Install the 17 flywheel cover screws. Evenly tighten
the screws to 40-50 in.-lb. (4.5-5.7 N.m).
21. Position the spark control shaft and the throttle control
shaft to the flywheel cover. Gently tap the spark control
CHAPTER SEVEN
arm onto the spark control shaft until it is seated. Secure 8. Inspect the starter drive bushing in the flywheel cover.
both shafts with their retainers (A and B, Figure 65). Replace the bushing if it is damaged or worn.
Secureeach retainer with two screws (A andB, Figure 64).
Tighten the screws securely.
22. Install the timing encoder wheel onto the crankshaft. IGNITION SYSTEMS
Clean the old sealant from the timing wheel screw. Apply
a small amount of OMC HT400 threadlocking adhesive to Refer to Table 9 for ignition system identification. This
the screw's threads. Install the screw and flat washer and section deals mainly with component removal and replace-
tighten it to 120-144 in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N~rn). ment. Refer to Chapter Three for additional illustrations,
23. Reinstall the voltage regulator cover. Tighten the four operational descriptions and ignition systemtroubleshoot-
screws securely. ing procedures. Refer to the end of the book for wiring
24. Reconnect the lead to the timing sensor. Make sure the diagrams.
connector locks firmly in place.
25. Perform the synchronizing and linkage adjustments as CD4 IGNITION
described in Chapter Five. Reinstall the spark plugs and (90" V4 CROSS-FLOW MODELS)
reconnect the spark plug leads when appropriate.
26. Reinstall the timing wheel cover. Tighten the screws Description
securely.
This ignition system is used on all 90" V4 cross-flow
Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection models. It is not used on the 90" V4 loop-charged models.
(60" Models) Refer to Chapter Three for complete operational descrip-
tions, additional illustrations and all troubleshooting pro-
WARNING cedures. Refer to the end of the book for wiring diagrams.
Damaged or defectivewheels must be re- The major components are the:
placed. A damaged or defectiveflywheel may 1. Flywheel-The flywheel (2, Figure 71) contains mag-
fly apart at higher engine speeds, throwing nets along the inner surface of its outer diameter and
fragments over a large area. Do not attempt
around the center hub The outer magnets provide power
to use or repair a damaged or defective
flywheel. to the charge and power coils, as well as the stator coil
windings. The inner magnets provide power to the sensor
1. Inspect the entire flywheel for cracks, chips, mechani- coils.
cal damage, wear and corrosion.
2. Carefully inspect the flywheel and crankshaft for
cracks, wear, corrosion and metal transfer.
3. Inspect the roll pin in the crankshaft for wear and
distortion. If the pin is loose in the crankshaft, it must be
replaced.
4. Inspect the timing encoder wheel and crankshaft key
slots for wear, cracks or damage.
5. Carefully inspect the timing encoder key at the top of
the crankshaft. Replace the key if it is in questionable
condition.
6. Inspect the flywheel for loose, cracked or damaged
magnets. The flywheel must be replaced if any of the
magnets are cracked or damaged. If a magnet is loose (but
is not damaged in any way), it can be reattached with
flywheel magnet epoxy (part No. 431929). The magnet
must be reinstalled in its original position and orientation
(polarity).
7. Clean the flywheel and crankshaft with a suitable sol-
vent and blow dry with compressed air. The mating sur-
faces must be clean, dry and free of oil or other
contamination.
2. Charge coil-The charge coil windings provide the rectifier). There is one SCR for each cylinder. Each SCR
power pack with the voltage it needs to operate the ignition is controlled by a sensor coil lead.
system. Charge coil output is AC and must be measured 4. Sensor coil-The sensor coil tells the power pack when
with a PRV (peak reading voltmeter). Charge coil failure to release the stored electricity in the capacitor to the
will always affect both cylinders. The charge coil is potted appropriate ignition coil. The sensor coil assembly (5,
into the stator assembly (4, Figure 71) along with the Figure 71) on these models uses four separate windings
alternator stator coils and the power coil. connected by a common white (return) lead. The blue lead
triggers cylinder No. 1, the purple lead triggers cylinder
3. Power pack-The power pack stores the electricity No. 2, the green lead triggers cylinder No. 3 and the pink
from the charge coil until the sensor coil tells it to send the lead triggers cylinder No. 4. The blue, purple, green and
electricity to the ignition coils. The power pack uses an pink leads are connected to the SCRs in the power pack.
internal rectifier to change the charge coil AC voltage to 5. Ignition coils-There is one ignition coil containing
DC (direct current) voltage. The DC voltage is stored in a one set of ignition coil windings for each cylinder. The
capacitor, until it is released by an SCR (silicon controlled ignition coil transforms the relatively low voltage from the
charge coil into voltage high enough (40,000volts) to jump
the spark plug gap and ignite the airlfuel mixture.
6. Sparkplugs-There is one spark plug for each cylinder.
7. Stop circuit-The stop circuit is connected to one end
of the capacitor in the power pack. Whenever the stop
circuit is connected to ground the ignition system will
cease to operate. The stop circuit is always the blacklyel-
low lead. All models use an ignition (key) switch.
2
Stator Assembly Removal/Installation
power head to prevent accidental starting.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter.
4. Disconnect the stator yellow and yellowlgray leads
from the terminal strip. Reinstall the screws to retain the
engine harness leads.
5. Disconnect the stator's two-pin Amphenol connector.
This connector contains either brown and brown/yellow
leads or brownlblack and brownlwhite leads.
3
5 6. Remove the four stator mounting screws (Figure 72).
Then remove any tie-straps or clamps securing the stator
harness to the power head or other leads.
6
7 -22
1. Flywheel nut
2. Flywheel
3. Stator mounting screw
4. Stator
5. Timer base (sensor coil)
6. Plastic bearing ring
7. Screw and retainer
258 CHAPTER SEVEN
7. Lift the stator assembly from the power head. 8. Compress the plastic bearing ring while guiding the
8. To install the stator, begin by removing any corrosion, sensor coil into position on the power head. The ring must
I
varnish residue or other debris from the crankcase head's seat into the crankcase recess.
mating surfaces. The stator must positively seat on the 9. Apply OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive to the
crankcase head to prevent it from vibrating loose under four sensor coil retainer screws. Then position the clips and
operation. It is not necessary to remove any varnish from install the screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 in.-lb.
the new stator. (2.8-4.0 N.m). Make sure the sensor coil rotates smoothly
9. Clean the stator mounting screws using OMC Locquic when finished. Correct any problems found.
Primer and allow to air dry. Then apply OMC Nut Lock 10. Reconnect the spark control linkage to the sensor coil.
threadlocking adhesive to the threads of the screws.
11. Connect the sensor coil (timer base) five-pin Amphe-
10. Install the stator assembly, align the screw holes and no1 connector to its power pack mate.
I
make sure the stator is seated to the crankcase head. Install

and evenly tighten the four mounting screws to 120-144 12. Install the stator assembly as described previously in
in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N.m). this chapter.
11. Connect the stator yellow and yellowlgray leads to the
I
terminal strip. Tighten the connections securely, then coat Power Pack RemovaVInstallation
the connections with OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
12. Connect the two-pin Arnphenol connectorto its power The power pack (A, Figure 74) is mounted on top of the
I
pack mate. starboard cylinder bank.

I
13. Venfj the correct routing of all leads. Secure the leads
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the ~
with new tie-straps or the original clamps.
14. Install the flywheel as described in this Chapter. Then I
reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark plug 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
leads. 3. Disconnect the following power pack leads: I I
15. Refer to Chapter Five and venfy all synchronization

and linkage adjustments.
Sensor Coil (Timer Base) Removal/Installation

1. Remove the stator assembly as described previously in
this chapter.
2. Disconnect the sensor coil five-pin Amphenol connec-
tor. This connector has blue, purple, green, pink and white
leads.
3. Disconnect the spark control linkage from the sensor
coil assembly. See B, Figure 73.
4. Remove the four screws securing the four sensor coil
retaining clips. See A, Figure 73.Remove the four clips,
, then remove any clamps or tie-straps securing the sensor 1 I
coil leads to the power-head or other harnessei.
5. Lift the sensor coil from the power head. Then remove
the plastic bearing ring from the sensor coil.
6. Thoroughly clean the crankcase head and sensor coil
bearing surfaces. Make sure the bearing surfaces are com-
pletely free of metal chips, corrosion or other contamina-
tion.
7. Lubricate the plastic bearing ring (or retainer ring) with
outboardmotor lubricant. Then coat the sensorcoil groove,
and the crankcase boss (that the sensor coil rotates around)
with OMC Moly Lube. Finally, install the ring into the
sensor coil's groove.
a. The five-pin Amphenol connector (blue, purple, 9. Reconnect the power pack Amphenol connectors to
green, pink and white leads). their engine harness mates.
b. The two-pin Amphenol connector (brown and 10. Coat the ignition coil primary terminals with OMC
browdyellow or brownblack and browdwhite Electrical Grease, then connect the leads as follows:
leads) a. Starboard bank-Connect the orangelblue lead to
c. The one-pin Amphenol connector (blackJyellow the upper coil's primary terminal and the or-
lead). angelgreen lead to the lower coil's primary terminal.
4. Disconnect the four primary leads from the ignition b. Port bank-Connect the orangelpurple lead to the
coils. Remove the primary leads with a gentle twisting and upper coil's primary terminal and the orangelpink
pulling motion. The primary leads are orangelblue, or- lead to the lower coil's primary terminal.
angelpurple, orangelgreen and orangelpink. c. Make sure each connector is M y seated to its coil.
5. Loosen the three power pack mounting screws (B, 11. Reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark
Figure 74) and carefully note the position and stacking of plug leads when finished.
any washers (fiber, flat or star) between the power head 12. Refer to Chapter Five and verify all synchronization
and power pack, and power pack and screw heads. Also and linkage adjustments.
note the position of the power pack ground (black) lead.
6. Remove any clamps or tie-straps securing any of the
power pack leads. Then remove the three screws, washers Ignition Coil RemovallInstallation
and the power pack.
The ignition coils are mounted to the cylinder heads.
7. To install the power pack, position the pack to the power
Figure 75 shows the starboard cylinder head and its two
head. Coat the threads of the mounting screws with OMC
coils (A).
Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Then install the screws
through the power pack with the washers stacked as noted 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect
during disassembly. Make sure the ground lead is secured the spark plug leads from the spark plugs.
by a mounting screw and star washer as noted during 2. Disconnect the power pack's primary leads (Figure 75)
disassembly. Thread the screws into the power head finger- from the coil(s) with a gentle twisting and pulling motion.
tight. 3. Remove the coil(s) mounting screws and washer(s),
8. Verify the washer stack-up and that the ground lead is then remove the coil(s).
secured as noted during disassembly. Then evenly tighten 4. To install the coils, begin by coating the screw threads
the mounting screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m). with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Then install
the screws and washers to the coil@)as follows:
a. Hole nearest primary (small) terminal-The stack-
up must be: coil, flat washer, star washer and screw.
This is also the hole that incorporates the ground
tabs.
b. Hole nearest secondary (large) terminal-The
stack-up must be: coil, flat washer and screw.
5A. Starboard bank-Position the coil(s) to the cylinder
head with the secondary (large) terminal facing up towards
the exhaust cover. Tighten the screws finger-tight.
5B. Port bank-Position the coil(s) to the cylinder head
with the secondary (large) terminal facing down towards
the exhaust cover. Tighten the screws finger-tight.
6. Recheck the washer stack-up, then tighten the screws
to 48-96 in.-lb. (5.4-10.9 N.m).
7. Coat the screw heads, washers and ground straps with
OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
8. Coat the ignition coil primary terminals with OMC
Electrical Grease, then connect the leads as follows:
a. Starboard bank-Connect the orangelblue lead to
the upper coil's primary terminal and the or-
angelgreen lead to the lower coil's primary terminal.
260 CHAPTER SEVEN
b. Port bank--Connect the orangelpurple lead to the 6. Optical (timing) sensor-The optical sensor works in
upper coil's primary terminal and the orangelpink conjunction with the flywheel mounted encoder ring to tell
lead to the lower coil's primary terminal. the ignition module when to release the stored electricity
c. Make sure each connector is finnly seated to its coil. in the capacitor to the appropriate ignition coil. The optical
9. Coat the ribbed portion of each spark plug's insulator sensor assembly actually contains two optical sensors.
with OMC Electrical (dielectric) Grease, then connect the Ignition timing is advanced and retarded by rotating the
spark plug leads to the spark plugs. The upper spark plug optical sensor assembly with a mechanical linkage.
lead must connect to the upper spark plug and the lower 7. Ignition coils-There is one set of ignition coil wind-
lead to the lower spark plug. Make sure all connections are ings for each cylinder. The ignition coil transforms the
firmly seated. relatively low voltage from the charge coil into voltage
10. Reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark high enough (40,000 volts) to jump the spark plug gap and
plug leads when fmished. ignite the airlfuel mixture. These models use dual-potted
ignition coils. Two sets of ignition coil windings are potted
OIS2000 IGNITION SYSTEM into one case, but are electrically separate and function
(60" V4 AND V6 MODELS) independently from each other. V4 models use two coil
assemblies, while V6 models use three coil assemblies.
Description 8. Sparkplugs-There is one spark plug for each cylinder.
Suppressor plugs and spark plug leads are designed to
This ignition system is used on all 60" models. Refer to
Chapter Three for a complete operational description, ad-
ditiinal illustrations and all troubleshooting prkcedures.
Refer to the end of the book for wiring diagrams.
The major components are the:
1. Flywheel-The flywheel contains magnets along the
inner surface of its outer diameter. The magnets provide
power to the charge and power coils, as well as the stator
coil windings.
2. Eming encoder wheel- A timing encoder wheel is
secured to the top of the crankshaft. The encoder wheel
works in conjunction with the optical sensor. The encoder
wheel is constructed to pass windows and vanes through
the optical sensor, providing the power pack with crank-
shaft position (timing) and engine speed information.
3. Charge coil-The charge coil windings provide the
power pack with the voltage it ultimately sends to the
ignition coils. The charge ;oil is potted &to the stator
assembly along with the alternator stator coils and the
power coil. V4 models use 1 charge coil winding, while V6
models use two charge coil windings.
4. Power coil-The power coil provides the electricity the
power pack needs to operate its electronic circuits, the
SLOW and QuikStart systems and the optical sensor. The
power coil is potted in the stator along with the charge coil
and alternator stator coils.
5. Powerpack-The power pack uses an internal rectifier
to change the charge coil AC voltage to DC (direct current)
voltage. The DC voltage is stored in a capacitor, until it is
released by a SCR (silicon controlled rectiiier). There is
one SCR for each cylinder. Each SCR is controlled by
internal electronic circuits, based on optical sensor input.
The power pack is also equipped with the QuikStart,
SLOW and rpm limit programs described in Chapter
Three.
reduce RFI (radio frequency interference) emissions that 2. Carefully lift the tab on the timing sensor connector (D,
can cause interference with electrical accessories and the Figure 76) and pull the connector from the sensor. Then
ignition system. Failure to use the recommended suppres- disconnect the return spring (E, Figure 76) from the fly-
sor spark plugs and spark plug leads will cause the ignition wheel cover. I
system to operate erratically. 3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing wheel
9. Stop circuit-The stop circuit is connected to one end indicates approximately 30" ATDC (after top dead center).
of the capacitor in the power pack. Whenever the stop Install OMC piston stop tool (part No. 384887) into the
circuit is connected to ground, the capacitor is shorted to No. 1 spark plug hole. See Figure 77. Screw the body of
ground and the ignition system ceases to operate. The stop the tool in until it bottoms, then turn the tool plunger
circuit is always the blacklyellow lead. inward until it contacts the piston. Secure the plunger in
I
10. Engine temperature switch-The engine temperature place by tightening the knurled locbing ring. I
switch on these models triggers the warning system, the 4. Hold the piston firmly against the tool by applying
SLOW system and the Quickstart program. See Chapter counterclockwise turning pressure against the flywheel.
Three. Then remove the screw and washer (B, Figure 76) securing
the timing encoder wheel to the top of the crankshaft.,Lift
the wheel from the crankshaft. If necessary, remove the
Optical (Timing) Sensor Removal/Installation timing pointer (C, Figure 76) to allow removal of the

1. Remove the timing wheel cover. There are three screws
timing wheel.
5. Remove the piston stop tool from the No. 1 cylinder.
6. Remove the five screws (three port and two starboard)
~
securing the timing wheel cover (A, Figure 61) to the securing the half-moon retainersA(l,Figure 78) to the
power head. flywheel cover. Remove the port and starboard retainers!
7. Lift the timing sensor support and sensor assembly (2
and 3, Figure 78) from the power head. Invert the assembly
and remove the two screws securing the sensor (3, ~ i g u k
78) to the support bracket (2). Separate the sensor from the
bracket. I
8. To install the sensor, begin by positioning the sensor b

3 the support bracket. Install and evenly tighten the hvb
screws. I
9. Lightly coat the sensor support-to-flywheelcover mat-

ing surfaces with OMC Triple Guard Grease. Then posi-
tion the sensor assembly to the power head.
10. Install the port and starboard supportbrackets. Tighten
49
' all five screws securely. Make sure the sensor assembly
rotates freely on the flywheel cover. Correct any problems
found.
11. Reconnect the return spring to the post on the flywhdl
cover.
12. Connect the Packard connector to the sensor. ~ a $ e
I
sure the connector locks to the sensor.
13. Install the timing encoder wheel onto the crankshaft.
Clean the old sealant from the timing wheel screw. Apply
1. Retainers a small amount of OMC HT400 threadlocking adhesive t~
2. Timing sensor support the screw's threads. Install the screw and flat washer aqd
3. Timing sensor I
tighten it to 120-144 in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N.m).
4. Retainer screws
5. Sensor screws 14. Perform the synchronization and linkage adjustments
as described in Chapter Five. Reinstall the spark plugs anfi
I
reconnect the spark plug leads when appropriate. I
15. Reinstall the timing wheel cover. Tighten the screws
securely. I
262 CHAPTER SEVEN
Stator Assembly Removalbstallation

2. Remove the flywheel as described previously in this
chapter.
3. Disconnect the stator coil yellow and yellowlgray leads
at their large two-pin locking connector (A, Figure 79),
located just above the voltage regulator.
4A. V4 models-Disconnect the four-pin Packard connec-
tor from the power pack. This connector has brown,
browdwhite, grange i d orangelblack leads.
4B. V6models-Disconnect the six-pin Packard connector
from the power pack. This connector has browntblack,
orangelblack, brownlyellow, brown, orange and
browdwhite leads.
5. Remove the screw securing the cable bracket to the
power head. See B, Figure 79. Lift the bracket and grom-
met from the power head.
6. Remove the four screws (C, Figure 79) securing the
stator assembly to the power head. Then remove any
tie-straps or clamps securing the stator harness to the
power head or other leads.
7. Lift the stator assembly from the power head.
8. To install the stator, begin by removing any corrosion,
varnish residue or other debris from the crankcase head's
mating surfaces. The stator must positively seat on the
crankcase head to prevent it from vibrating loose under
operation. It is not necessary to remove any varnish from
the new stator.
9. Clean the stator mounting screws using OMC Locquic
Primer and allow to air dry. Then apply OMC Nut Lock
threadlocking adhesive to the threads of the screws.
10. Install the stator assembly, align the screw holes and
make sure the stator has seated to the crankcase head.
Install and evenly tighten the four mounting screws to
120-144 in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N-m).
11. Seat the stator leads (and grommet) into the relief in
the power head. Install the clamp and secureit with a screw.
Tighten the screw securely.
12. Connect the stator's large two-pin connector (yellow
and yellowlgray leads) to its mate from the voltage regu-
lator. Make sure the connectors lock together.
13. Connect the stator's Packard connector to the power
pack. Make sure the connector locks to the ignition mod-
ule.
14. Venfy the correct routing of all leads. Secure the leads
with new tie-straps or the original clamps.
15. Install the flywheel as described previously in this
Chapter.
16. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative bat- 3. If removing the power pack, disconnect the two
tery cable, then refer to Chapter Five and venfy all syn- Packard connectors from the top of the power pack. See
chronization and linkage adjustments. Figure 82, typical.
4. Disconnect the spark plug leads from the top coil as-
sembly with a gentle twisting and pulling motion. Then
Power Pack and Ignition Coil Removal/Installation disconnect the power pack's primary leads from the top
coil assembly in the same manner.
The power pack and ignition coil assemblies may be 5. Loosen the two top coil assembly mounting screws
removed as a single component if so desired. If not, the top (Figure 83). Note the position of the washers, RFI (radio
ignition coil must be removed first, followed by the middle frequency interference) shield and any ground leads.
and/or lower coil. V4 models use two ignition coil assem- 6. Remove the two top coil assembly mounting screws
blies, while V6 models use three ignition coil assemblies. and washers. Then remove the coil assembly.
The power pack (A, Figure 80) is mounted directly behind 7. Repeat Steps 4-6 for each remaining coil assembly.
the ignition coil assemblies (B). When the lowest coil assembly is removed, the power pack
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. and RFI shield can be removed from the power head.
8. To install the power pack andor the lowest ignition coil
2. Remove the timing wheel cover (A, Figure 81), the assembly, begin by coating the threads of all of the coil
voltage regulator cover (B) and the ignition coil cover (C). mounting screw threads with OMC Nut Lock threadlock-
a. There are three screws securing the timing wheel ing adhesive. Then install a star washer followed by a flat
cover (A, Figure 81). washer over each screw.
b. There are four screws securing the voltage regulator 9. Position the RFI shield against the power pack. Align
cover (B, Figure 81). Two of the regulator cover the lower ignition coil to the power pack and push the
screws are hidden by the flywheel cover. screws into the power pack holes.
c. There are four screws securing the ignition coil cover NOTE
to the power head. Make sure all ground leads and lockwashers
are reinstalled as noted during removal.
10. Coat all of the ignition coil primary terminals with

OMC Electrical Grease, then coat the ignition coils secon-
dary terminals and the ribbed portion of each spark plug's
insulator with OMC Electrical Grease.
11. Hold the power pack and lower ignition coil assembly
to the power head and tighten the screws finger-tight.
Connect the primary and secondary leads to the ignition
coil terminals, making sure they are fully seated.
12. Install the mounting screws and washers through the
middle (or upper) ignition coil assembly. Position the coil
on the power pack and tighten the screws finger-tight.
Connect the primary and secondary leads to the ignition
coil terminals, making sure they are fully seated.
13. Repeat Step 12 to install the upper ignition coil on V6
models.
14. Once all of the ignition coil assemblies are installed,
evenly tighten all of the coil mounting screws to 60-95
in.-lb. (5.7-10.7 Ngm).
16. Connect the two Packard connectors to the top of the
power pack. See Figure 82. Make sure each connector
locks in place.
17. Install the ignition coil cover. Tighten the four screws
securely.
CHAPTER SEVEN
18. Install the voltage regulator cover. Tighten the four 4. Sensor coil-The sensor coil (5, Figure 84) tells the
screws securely. power pack when to release the stored electricity in the
19. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative bat- capacitor to the appropriate ignition coil.
tery cable. a. Four-cylinder models-The sensor coil assembly
20. Refer to Chapter Five and perform the synchroniza- (timer base) on these models uses four separate
tion and linkage adjustment procedure as specified. windings for normal operation and 4 for QuikStart
21. Install the timing wheel cover when finished. operation, all connected by a common white (return)
lead. The sensor coil leads are connectedto the SCRs
CD4, CD6 AND CD8 IGNITION in the power pack. The port set of leads is the normal
(90" V4, V6 AND V8 operation windings and the starboard set of leads is
LOOP-CHARGED MODELS) the QuikStart set of windings. The power pack de-
cides which set of leads to use based on the condition
Description of the engine temperature switch.
b. Six-cylinder models-The sensor coil assembly
This ignition system is used on 90" V4, V6 and V8
(timer base) on these models uses six double-wound
loop-charged models. It is not used on 90" V4 cross-flow
models or any 60" models. Refer to Chapter Three for
complete operational descriptions, additional illustrations
and all troubleshooting procedures. Refer to the end of the
book for wiring diagrams.
The major components are the: v1
1. Flywheel-The flywheel (2, Figure 84) contains mag-
nets along the inner surface of its outer diameter and 2
around the center hub. The outer magnets provide power
to the charge and power coils, as well as the stator coil
windings. The inner magnets provide power to the sensor
coils.
2. Charge coil-The charge coil windings provide the
power pack with the voltage it needs to operate the ignition
system. Charge coil output is AC voltage and must be
measured with a PRV (peak reading voltmeter). Charge
3
coil failure will always affect multiple cylinders. V4 mod-
els use one charge coil, while V6 and V8 models use 2
charge coils. The charge coil(s) is potted in the stator
assembly (4, Figure 84) along with the alternator stator
coils and the power coil.
3. Power pack-The power pack stores the electricity
from the charge coil until the sensor coil tells it to send the 5
electricity to the ignition coils. The power pack uses an
:&
internal rectifier to change the charge coil AC voltage to
DC (direct current) voltage. The DC voltage is stored in a
capacitor, until it is released by an SCR (silicon controlled
rectifier). There is one SCR for each cylinder. Each SCR
is controlled by a sensor coil lead.
The power pack on these models is equipped with the
1. Flywheel nut
SLOW, QuikStart and rpm limit programs described in 2. Flywheel
Chapter Three. 3. Stator mounting screw
The power pack is stamped with the programmed engine 4. Stator
speed limit and other information. For example, if the 5. Timer base (sensor coil)
6. Plastic bearing ring
power pack is stamped CD4QSU6700, it is a CD4 power 7. Screw and retainer
pack with QuikStart (Q), SLOW (S) and a 6700 rpm engine
speed limit (U6700). Use this information to ensure the
correct power pack is installed.
sensor coils. One part of each coil is used for normal 3. Remove the flywheel as described previously in this
operation, while the other part of each coil is used chapter.
for QuikStart operation. A blacwwhite timer base 4A. V4 models-Disconnect the stator yellow and yel-
lead is used by the power pack to internally switch lowlgray leads from the terminal strip. Reinstall the screws
the timer base over to the QuikStart set of sensor coil to retain the engine harness leads.
windings. When the power pack sends the correct 4B. V6 and V8 models-Disconnect the stator coil yellow
signal through the blacwwhite lead, electronic cir- and yellowlgray leads from their large two-pin locking
cuits in the timer base switch operation to the ad- connector, located near the voltage regulator.
vanced sensor coil windings. All of the sensor coil 5. Disconnect the stator's two-pin Amphenol connec-
windings are connected by a common (white) lead. tor(~).V4 models use one two-pin connector, while V6 and
c. Eight-cylinder models-The sensor coil assembly V8 models use two two-pin connectors.
(timer base) on these models uses eight double- 6A. V4 models-Disconnect the stator's power coil leads
wound sensor coils. One part of each coil is used for from the terminal strip. The leads are orange and or-
normal operation, while the other part of each coil angelblack. Reinstall the screws to hold the power pack
is used for QuikStart operation. A blacwwhite timer leads to the terminal strip.
base lead is used by the power pack to internally 6B. V6 and V8models-Disconnect the stator's power coil
switch the timer base over to the QuikStart side of leads from their bullet connectors. The leads are orange
the sensor coil windings. When the power pack and orangelblack.
sends the correct signal through the blacwwhite 7. Remove the four stator mounting screws (3, Figure 84).
lead, electronic circuits in the timer base switch Then remove any tie-straps or clamps securing the stator
operation to the advanced sensor coil windings. All harness to the power head or other leads.
of the sensor coil windings are connected by a 8. Lift the stator assembly from the power head.
common (white) lead. 9. To install the stator, begin by removing any corrosion,
5. Ignition coils-There is one ignition coil for each cyl- varnish residue or other debris from the crankcase head's
inder. The ignition coil transforms the relatively low volt- mating surfaces. The stator must positively seat on the
age from the charge coil into voltage high enough (40,000 crankcase head to prevent it from vibrating loose under
volts) to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the airlfuel operation. It is not necessary to remove any varnish from
mixture. the new stator.
6. Sparkplugs-There is one sparkplug for each cylinder. 10. Clean the stator mounting screws using OMC Locquic
Failure to use the recommended suppressor spark plug Primer and allow to air dry. Then apply OMC Nut Lock
may cause the ignition system to operate erratically. threadlocking adhesive to the threads of the screws.
7. Stop circuit-The stop circuit is connected to one end 11. Install the stator assembly, align the screw holes and
of the capacitor in the power pack. Whenever the stop make sure the stator is seated to the crankcase head. Install
circuit is connected to ground the ignition system will and evenly tighten the four mounting screws to 120-144
cease to operate. The stop circuit is always the blacwyel- in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N-m).
low lead. 12A. V4 models-Reconnect the stator yellow and yel-
8. Engine temperature switch-The engine temperature lowlgray leads to the terminal strip. Tighten the screws
switch triggers the warning system, QuikStart system and securely. Coat the connections with OMC Black Neoprene
the SLOW system. See Chapter Three. Dip.
9. Power coil-The power coil provides the electricity the 12B. V6 and V8 models--Connect the stator coil yellow
power pack needs to operate the SLOW and QlukStart and yellowlgray leads to the voltage regulator connector.
systems. The power coil is potted in the stator assembly Make sure the connector locks together.
along with the charge coil and alternator stator coils. The 13. Connect the stator's two-pin Amphenol comector(s).
power coil windings are connected to the power pack with Secure the connection(s) by installing the wire bail over
two leads (orange and orangelblack). the connector(s).
14. V4 models--Connect the stator's power coil leads to
the terminal strip. Tighten the screws securely. Coat the
Stator Assembly Removal/Installation connections with OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
15. V6 and V8 models--Connect the stator's power coil
Refer to Figure 84 for this procedure. leads to their power pack mates. The power coil leads are
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the orange and orangelblack.
power head to prevent accidental starting. 16. Verify the correct routing of all leads. Secure the leads
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. with new tie-straps or the original clamps.
CHAPTER SEVEN
17. I n s d l the flywheel as described in this Chapter. Then 3. Disconnect the primary lead kom each ignition coil's
reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark plug primary terminal. Remove the leads with a gentle twisting
leads. and pulling motion.
18. Refer to Chapter Five and verify all synchronization 4. Remove the two screws and two nuts (and washers)
and linkage adjustments. securing the power pack to the electrical component
bracket. See Figure 86. Remove the ground wire from its
mounting stud.
Timer Base Removal/Installation 5. Lift the power pack up and away from the bracket to
access the electrical connections. Note the routing and
Refer to Figure 84 for this procedure. position of all leads.
1. Remove the stator assembly as described previously in 6A. V4 models-Disconnect the power pack's leads as
this chapter. follows:
2. Disconnect the timer base Amphenol connectors. a. Disconnect the two-pin Amphenol connector
3. Disconnect the spark control linkage from the timer (charge coil leads) and the four-pin and five-pin
base assembly. Amphenol connectors (timer base leads).
4. Remove the four screws securing the four timer base b. Disconnect the orange and orangelblack leads from
retaining clips (7, Figure 84). Remove the four clips, then the terminal strip. Reinstall the screws to hold the
remove any clamps or tie-straps securing the timer base power coil leads in place.
leads to the power head or other harnesses. c. Disconnect the one-pin blacklyellow stop circuit
5. Lift the timer base from the power head. Then remove connector.
the plastic bearing ring from the timer base. d. Disconnect the yellowlred, whitelblack and tan
6. Thoroughly clean the crankcase head and timer base leads at their bullet connectors.
bearing surfaces. Make sure the bearing surfaces are com- 6B. V6 models-Disconnect the power pack leads as fol-
pletely free of metal chips, corrosion or other contamina- lows:
tion. a. Disconnect the two two-pin Arnphenol connectors
7. Lubricate the plastic bearing ring (or retainer ring) with (charge coil leads) and the two five-pin Amphenol
outboard motor lubricant. Then coat the timer base groove, connectors (timer base leads).
and the crankcase boss that the timer base rotates around b. Disconnect the orange and orangelblack leads at
with OMC Moly Lube. Finally, install the ring into the their bullet connectors.
timer base's groove. c. Disconnect the one-pin blacklyellow stop circuit
8. Compress the plastic bearing ring while guiding the connector.
timer base into position on the power head. The ring must d. Disconnect the yellowlred, whitelblack and tan
seat into the crankcase recess. leads at their bullet connectors.
9. Apply OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive to the 6C. V8 models-Disconnect the power pack leads as fol-
four timer base retainer screws. Then position the clips and lows:
install the screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 in.-lb. a. Disconnect the two two-pin Amphenol connectors
(2.8-4.0 N-m). Make sure the timer base rotates smoothly (charge coil leads) and the two five-pin Amphenol
when finished. Correct any problems found. connectors (timer base leads).
10. Reconnect the spark control linkage to the timer base.
11. Connect the timer base Amphenol connectors to their
power pack mates.
12. Install the stator assembly as described previously in
this chapter.
Power Pack Removal/Installation
The power pack is mounted to the top of the power head,

just behind the flywheel as shown in Figure 85. Refer to
Figure 86 for this procedure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
b. Disconnect the orange and orangeblack leads at 9B. V6 models-Hold the power pack next to the electrical
their bullet connectors. component bracket and connect the leads as follows:
c. Disconnect the two-pin blacklyellow and blacklor- a. Connect the two two-pin Amphenol connectors
ange stop circuit connector. (charge coil leads) and the two five-pin Arnphenol
d. Disconnect the yellowlred, whiteblack and tan connectors (timer base leads) to their mates.
leads at their bullet connectors. b. Connect the orange and orangeblack leads to their
7. Remove any clamps or tie-straps securing any of the mating bullet connectors.
power pack leads. If the power pack ground (black) lead c. Connect the one-pin blacklyellow stop circuit con-
is secured with a separate screw, remove it at this time. nector to its mate.
Then remove the power pack from the power head. d. Connect the yellowlred, whiteblack and tanleads to
8. To install the power pack, begin by coating the threads their mating bullet connectors.
of the mounting screws and studs with OMC Nut Lock 9C. V8 models-Hold the power pack next to the electrical
threadlocking adhesive. component bracket and connect the leads as follows:
9A. V4 models-Hold the power pack next to the electrical a. Connect the two two-pin Amphenol connectors
component bracket and connect the leads as follows: (charge coil leads) and the two five-pin Arnphenol
a. Connect the two-pin Amphenol connector (charge connectors (timer base leads) to their mates.
coil leads) and the four-pin and five-pin Amphenol b. Connect the orange and orangeblack leads to their
connectors (timer base leads) to their mates. mating bullet connectors.
b. Connect the orange and orangeblack leads to the c. Connect the two-pin blacklyellow and black/orange
terminal strip. Tighten the screws securely. Coat the stop circuit connector to its mate.
connections with OMC Black Neoprene Dip. d. Connect the yellowlred, whiteblack and tanleads to
c. Connect the one-pin blacklyellow stop circuit con- their mating bullet connectors.
nector to its mate. 10. Make sure all leads and connectors are routed or
d. Connect the yellowlred, whiteblack and tanleads to secured as noted during removal, then seat the power pack
their mating bullet connectors. to the bracket. Connect the ground lead to the stud as
shown in Figure 86, then install the two nuts and two
screws and washers. Evenly tighten all four fasteners to
48-60 in.-lb. (5.4-6.8 N.m).
11A. V4 models4oat the ignition coil primary terminals
with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the power pack
primary leads as follows:
a. Starboard bank-Connect the orange/blue lead to
the top coil and the orangelgreen lead to the bottom
coil.
b. Port bank--Connect the orangelpurple lead to the
top coil and the orangelpink lead to the bottom coil.
c. Make sure the connectors are firmly seated to the
coils.
11B. V6 models--Coat the ignition coil primary terminals
with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the power pack
primary leads as follows:
a. Starboard bank-Use the leads coming from the
starboard side of the power pack. Connect the or-
angeblue lead to the top coil, the orange lead to the
middle coil and the orangelgreen lead to the bottom
coil.
1. Screws
b. Port bank-Use the leads coming from the port side
2. Nuts
3. Ground wire of the power pack. Connect the orangeblue lead to
4. Power pack the top coil, the orange lead to the middle coil and
assembly the orangelgreen lead to the bottom coil.
c. Make sure all connectors are firmly seated to the
coils.
CHAPTER SEVEN.
11C. V8 models--Coat the ignition coil primary terminals 8A. V4 models-Coat the ignition coil primary terminals
with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the power pack with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the leads as
primary leads as follows: follows:
a. Starboard bank--Connect the orangelblue lead to a. Starboard bank--Connect the orangeblue lead to
the top coil, the orange lead to the second coil (from the upper coil and the orangelgreen lead to the lower
the top), the orangelwhiteblue lead to the third coil coil.
(from the top) and the orangelgreen/whitelead to the b. Port bank-Connect the orangelpurple lead to the
bottom coil. upper coil's primary terminal and the orangelpink
b. Port bank--Connect the orangelpurple lead to the lead to the lower coil's primary terminal.
top coil, the orangelpink lead to the second coil c. Make sure each connector is firmly seated to its coil.
(from the top), the orangelpurplelwhite lead to the 8B. V6 models--Coat the ignition coil primary terminals
third coil (from the top) and the orangelwhitelpink with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the leads as
lead to the bottom coil. follows:
c. Make sure all connectors are firmly seated to the a. Starboard bank-Use the leads coming from the
coils. starboard side of the power pack. Connect the or-
12. Replace any tie-straps and reinstall any clamps re- angelblue lead to the top coil, the orange lead to the
moved. middle coil and the orangelgreen lead to the bottom
13. Reconnect the negative battery cable and the spark coil.
plug leads when finished. b. Port bank-Use the leads coming from the port side
14. Refer to Chapter Five and verify all synchronization of the power pack. Connect the orangeblue lead to
and linkage adjustments. the top coil, the orange lead to the middle coil and
the orangelgreen lead to the bottom coil.
c. Make sure all connectors are firmly seated to the
Ignition Coil RemovaVInstallation coils.
9. V8 models--Coat the ignition coil primary terminals
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect with OMC Electrical Grease, then connect the power pack
the spark plug leads from the spark plugs. primary leads as follows:
2. Disconnect the power pack's primary leads from the a. Starboard bank--Connect the orangelblue lead to
coil(s) with a gentle twisting and pulling motion. the top coil, the orange lead to the second coil (from
3. Remove the coil(s) mounting screws and washer(s), the top), the orangelwhiteblue lead to the third coil
then remove the coil(s). (from the top) and the orange/greenlwhite lead to the
4. To install the coils, begin by coating the screw threads bottom coil.
with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Then install b. Port bank-Connect the orange/purple lead to the
the screws and washers to the coil(s) as follows: top coil, the orangelpink lead to the second coil
a. Hole nearest primary (small) terminal-The stack- (from the top), the orangelpurplelwhite lead to the
up must be: coil, flat washer, star washer and screw. third coil (from the top) and the orangelwhitelpink
This is also the hole that incorporates the ground lead to the bottom coil.
tabs. c. Make sure all connectors are firmly seated to the
b. Hole nearest secondary (large) terminal-The coils.
stack-up must be: coil, flat washer and screw.
5A. Starboard bank-Position the coil@)to the cylinder
head with the secondary (large) terminal facing up, away
fromthe cylinder block and away from the nearest cylinder
head. Tighten the screws finger-tight.
5B. Port bank-Position the coil(s) on the cylinder head
with the secondary (large) terminal facing down, away
from the cylinder block and away from the nearest cylinder
head. Tighten the screws finger-tight.
6. Recheck the washer stack-up, then tighten the screws
to 48-96 in.-lb. (5.4-10.9 N.m).
10. Coat the ribbed portion of each spark plug's insula- necting the bodies a d o r replacing pins.
tor with OMC Electrical (dielectric) Grease, then con- The water-resistant molded seals in the bod-
nect the spark plug leads to the spark plugs. Each coil's ies will be damaged if no lubricant is used.
spark plug lead must connect to the spark plug immedi-
ately adjacent to it. Make sure all connections are firmly To separate the pin(s) from the body, a set of three
seated. special tools is required to prevent pin or body damage'.
The three tools are:
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable when finished.
1. Insert tool part No. 322697, identified by its half-moon
tip.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR SERVICE 2. Male pin remover tool part No. 322698, identified by
its round, hollow tip.
Amphenol Connectors 3. Female pin remover tool part No. 322699, identified by
its round, solid tip.
Amphenol connectors have been widely used on Failure to use the recommended tools and lubricant will
EvinrudeIJohnson engines since 1978.Amphenol connec- result in connector body damage and the connector will n?
tors are identified by their round, dark rubber connector longer be water resistant. Also, if the bodies are damage$
bodies. Often a wire locking clip or wire bail is used to the pins will no longer be held in position and will tend to
keep the connector from vibrating apart. A disconnected back out of the bodies as the connectors are joined. his
Amphenol connector and its wire bail are shown in Figure
will cause poor or erratic continuity, or no connection qt
87. all. I
CAUTION To replace the terminal pin(s) or connector body, refer

I
Always lubricate Amphenol connectors with to Figure 88 and proceed as follows:
isopropyl alcohol when connecting/discon- 1. Remove the retaining clip (if so equipped). ,
AMPHENOL CONNECTOR SERVICE
FEMALE PLUG MALE PLUG
CHAPTER SEVEN
2. Liberally lubricate the connector body mating line with durability. These connectors are considered totally water-
isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Then carefully separate the proof when correctly installed and serviced. Deutsch style
halves. Apply additional lubricant if the connectors stick. connectors are easily identified by their hard plastic bod-
3. Lubricate the terminal pin to be removed with isopropyl ies, orange locking wedges and orange silicone elastomer
alcohol at both ends of the connector cavity. seals. An external locking tab prevents the connectorsfrom
4. Hold the connector against the edge of a flat surface, vibrating apart and must be manually released before the
allowing sufficient clearance for pin removal. connectors can be separated. Each terminal pin is locked
5. Insert the proper removal tool into the connector end of into the connector body with its own individual internal
the plug and carefully push the terminal pin from the plug. locking tab. Replacement connector body, locking wedge
See Figure 88. and seal part numbers are listed in the manufacturer's parts
6. If the terminal pin (male or female) requires replace- catalog. Two service tools (a connector service tool and
ment, cut the lead as close to the pin as possible. Strip the crimping pliers) and a connector repair kit are listed in
lead back far enough to allow the new pin's crimping tabs Table 9.
to make complete contact with the wire strands. Do not
nick or cut any of the wire strands. CAUTION
7. Position the new pin to the lead and crimp it firmly with Always lubricate the seals of Deutsch con-
Amphenol crimping pliers (part No. 322696) or equiva- nectors with OMC Electrical Grease when
lent. A double roll crimp must be applied. Do not use a reconnecting the bodies andlor replacing the
standard pair of crimping pliers (such as part No. 500906) pins. I f the locking wedge is removed, the
for this operation. connector body cavityfor the wedge must be
8. Lubricate the connector cavity with rubbing alcohol. filled with OMC Electrical Grease to within
1/32 in. (0.8mm) ofthe wedge-to-connector
9. Place the insert tool against the terminal pin's shoulder. body mating su$ace.
Carefully guide the pin into the rear of the connector plug
cavity and press it in place until the insert tool shoulder
To replace the terminal pins or connector body, proceed
rests against the connector plug. Withdraw the insert tool.
as follows:
10. Lubricate both connector bodies and connect the
halves. Inspect the rear or each connector body to make
sure the terminal pins did not back out. Then install the
retaining clip if so equipped.
Bullet Connectors
The bullet connector (Figure 89) is a common connec-

tor used widely in the marine industry. The bullet connec-
tors used on EvinrudeIJohnson engines use vinyl sleeves
with several internal sealing ribs to seal the sleeve to the
lead as tightly as possible. Replacement male and female
connectors, and their appropriate sleeves are listed in the
manufacturer's parts catalog. Crimp the connectors in
place with standard crimping pliers, such as OMC part No.
500906. Make sure the correct vinyl sleeve (male or fe-
male) is in place over the lead before crimping a new
connector in place.
Deutsch Connectors
(Modular Wiring Harness)
OMC began using Deutsch connectors (Figure 90, typi-

cal) when the Modular Wiring System (MWS) was intro-
duced on remote control models beginning with the 1996
model year. The modular wiring harness is designed to
allow flexible, uncomplicated rigging with exceptional
1. Depress the locking latch and separate the connector. terminal pin) from the rear of the connector body. Be
2A. Female body (male pins)-Reach into the body with careful not to damage the body's seal.
the hooked end of the connector tool (part No. 342667), 4. If the terminal pin requires replacement,refer to Figure
and pull the orange locking wedge from the body. See 1, 93 and proceed as follows:
Figure 91. a. Cut the lead as close to the pin as possible, then strip
2B. Male body Cfemale pins)-Carefully pry the orange the lead back 3/16 in. (4.8 rnm). Do not nick or cut
end plate and locking wedge (3, Figure 91) from the end any of the wire strands.
of the connector body with the flat end of connector tool b. Using the OMC Amphenol crimping pliers part No.
part No. 342667 or a small screwdriver (4, Figure 91). 322696 or equivalent, position the terminal's pri-
mary tabs into the No. 18 notch of the pliers. Then
3. Depress the internal locking tab (Figure 92) for the position the wire strands into the terminal, making
terminal pin and lead to be removed, then pull the lead (and sure the wire strands extend past the primary tabs
and the insulation is under the secondary tabs.
c. Crimp the terminal firmly, then inspect the crimp.
All strands must be encapsulated in the crimp as
shown in 1, Figure 93. If not, remove the terminal
and start over with a new terminal pin.
d. If the primary crimp is satisfactory, position the
secondary tabs in the No. 14-16 notch of the pliers
and crimp the terminal firmly. Inspect the crimp. The
secondary tabs must be folded over the insulation as
shown in 2, Figure 93. If not, remove the terminal
and start over with a new terminal pin.
5. To install the terminal pin and lead, lubricate the pin
with OMC Electrical Grease and insert the pin into the
appropriate connector body socket. Push the pin and lead
into the body until it locks in place. If the pin and lead do
not lock in place, the connector body must be replaced.
6. Once all pins and leads are installed, fill the locking
wedge cavity with OMC Electrical Grease to a point
CHAPTER SEVEN
approximately 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) below the internal ledge 2. Unlock each terminal pin and lead by inserting a suit-
on the female body or the end of the male body. able terminal tool (Figure 95) available from automotive
7. Inspect the male body's ribbed seal. Replace the seal if tool suppliers) into the rear of the body until it releases the
damaged. Then lubricate the seal ribs with OMC Electrical locking tab (Figure 96) from the shoulder at the front of
Grease. Align the connectors and push them together until body. Then push the lead and terminal pin out the front of
the latch locks in place. the connector body.
3. Cut the defective terminal pin from the lead as close to
Packard Connectors the pin as possible.
4. If changing the seal andlor connector body, note the
While the Packard connector is used extensively in the position of each lead in the body, then pull the leads from
automotive industry, its use is somewhat limited on the body and seal.
Evinrude/Johnson engines. This connector is only used to
connect an engine harness directly to an electrical or NOTE
ignition component and is not used to connect a harness to Make sure all leads are routed through the
another. new seal and/or connector body before
crimping any new terminal pins to the leads.
CAUTION
Always lubricate the seals of Packard con-
nectors with OMC Electrical Grease when
reconnecting the bodies or replacing the
pin(s), body or seal(s).
Four andfive-pin Packard connectors

This style is easily identified by a flat arrangement of
the connector pins, the large U-shaped locking tab and the
three-ribbed replaceable seals; one sealing the leads to the
body and the other sealing the body to the component. This
connector is used in four-pin configurations on the power
pack of the 60" V4 models and in five-pin configurations
on the optical sensor of the 60" V4 and V6 (loop-charged)
models (Figure 94). This connector is of the pull-to-lock
design.
To replace the body or the lead-to-body seal, all pins will
have to be removed and cut from their leads. To clo so,
proceed as follows:
1. Carefully pry the lead-to-body seal out from the body
at least 1 in. (25.4 mm). If the seal is nicked, cut or
damaged, it must be replaced.
::.
Packard connector
5. If the leads are removed from the body andlor seal, into the No. 18 notch of the pliers. Then position the wire
lubricate the seal with OMC Electrical Grease and route strands into the terminal, making sure the wire strands
the leads through the seal, then the connector body, in the extend past the primary tabs and the insulation is under the
positions noted during disassembly. secondary tabs.
6. Strip the lead back far enough to allow the new pin's 8. Crimp the terminal firmly, then inspect the crimp. All
crimping tabs to make complete contact with the wire strands must be encapsulated in the crimp as shown in 1,
strands. Do not nick or cut any of the wire strands. Figure 93, typical. If not, remove the terminal and start
over with a new terminal pin.
7. Using the OMC Amphenol crimping pliers (part No.
9. If the primary crimp is satisfactory,position the secon-
322696 or equivalent),position the terminal's primary tabs
dary tabs in the No. 14-16 notch of the pliers and crimp
the terminal firmly. Inspect the crimp. The secondary tabs
must be folded over the insulation as shown in 2, Figure
93, typical. If not, remove the terminal and start over with
a new terminal pin.
10. After crimping, inspect the locking tab on the terminal
pin. If necessary, slightly bend the tab upward to ensure a
positive lock. Then pull each lead into the connector body
until it locks in place. If any terminal pin will not lock in
place (and the pin's locking tab is not damaged), the
connector body's shoulder is rounded or damaged and the
body must be replaced.
11. If the connector body-to-component seal is damaged,
slide it from the body and discard it. Coat a new seal with
OMC Electrical Grease and slide it over the connector
body and against the body's shoulder.
Six- and eight-pin Packard connectors

This style of Packard connector is used on the power
pack of the 60" V6 models. See Figure 97.The connector
is easily identified by the two stacked rows of pins. Each
pin has its own individual rear seal, while a common
3-ribbed seal is used to seal the connector body to the
component. This is apush-to-lockconnector.
To service the connector, replacing the body, terminal
pin(s) or the lead-to-body seal(s), proceed as follows:
1. Unlock the terminal pin and lead by inserting a suitable
terminal tool such as a paper clip into the front of the body
as shown in Figure 98 and Figure 96. Then pull the lead,
seal and terminal pin out the rear of the connector body.
2. If changing the body, note the position of each lead,
then repeat Step 1 until all leads are removed.
3. If necessary, cut the defectiveterminal pin from the lead
as close to the pin as possible, then slide the seal (2, Figure
98) from the lead.
4. If removed, lubricate the seal with OMC Electrical
(dielectric) Grease, then slide it over the lead.
5. Strip the lead back far enough to allow the new pin's
1. Terminal crimping tabs to make complete contact with the wire
2. Seal
3. Tool
strands. Do not nick or cut any of the wire strands.
6. Using the OMC Amphenol crimping pliers (part No.
322696 or equivalent),position the terminal's primary tabs
into the No. 18 notch of the pliers. Then position the wire
274 CHAPTER SEVEN
strands into the terminal, making sure the wire strands 9. After crimping, inspect the locking tab (1, Figure 96)
extend past the primary tabs and the insulationis under the on the tenninal pin. If necessary, slightly bend the tab
secondary tabs. upward to ensure apositive lock. Then push each lead into
the connector body until it locks in place. If any terminal
7. Crimp the terminal firmly, then inspect the crimp. All pin will not lock in place and the pin's locking tab is not
strands must be encapsulated in the crimp as shown in damaged, the connector body's shoulder is rounded or
Figure 93, typical. If not, remove the terminal and start
damaged and the body must be replaced.
over with a new terminal pin.
10. Carefully push each lead's seal (2, Figure 96) into the
8. If the primary crimp is satisfactory,position the secon- rear of the connector body. Do not cut, nick or damage the
dary tabs in the No. 14-16 notch of the pliers and crimp seal during this operation.
the terminal firmly. Inspect the crimp. The secondary tabs 11. If the connector body-to-component seal is damaged,
must be folded over the insulation as shown in Figure 93, slide it from the body and discard it. Coat a new seal with
typical. If not, remove the terminal and start over with a OMC Electrical Grease and slide it over the connector
new terminal pin. body and against the body's shoulder.
Table I BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE PERCENTAGE
I I
BATTERYate of charge ( O h )
Table 2 WIRING HARNESS COLOR CODES (TRADITIONAL HARNESSES)

Color code
Tachometer GmY
Stop 1 (ignition side) BlackEyellow
Stop 2 (ground side) Black
Choke or primer Purplehhite
Warning horn Tan
Switched B+ Purple
Grounds Black
Trimltllt circuits
Rim motor up Blue
Switching up Bluehhite
Switching down Greedwhite
Switching circuit B+ Redlwhite
Trim sender circuit Whiteltan
Grounds Black or blackitan
Table 9 WIRING HARNESS COLOR CODES (MODULAR WIRING HARNESS)

Color code
Tachometer Gray
Stop 1 (ignition side) Black/yellow
Stop 2 (ground side) Blackiwhite
Choke or primer Purplelwhite
Overheat warning Tan
No oil warning Tan/yellow
Low oil warning Tadlack
Warning horn control Tadlue
Grounds Black
Trimltilt circuits
Trim motor up Blue
Switching up Bluelwhite
Switching circuit B+ Redhvhite
Trim sender circuit Whiteltan
I
Table 4 BATTERY CAPACITY (HOURS)
h d
Provides continuous Approximate

Aecessoy draw power for: recharge time
80 amp-hour battery
5 amps 13.5 hours 16 hours
105 amp-hour battery
Table 5 MINIMUM BATTERY CABLE SIZES IAWGI* -

I
Cable length V4 VB and V8

1-10 ft. (0.3-3.0 m) 4 gauge 4 gauge
11-15 ft. (3.44.6 m) 3 gauge 2 gauge
16-20 ft. (4.9-6.1 m) 1 gauge 1 gauge
* Stranded copper cables. Do not use aluminum cables.
Table 6 ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION TORQUE VALUES

Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. Nom
Ignition coils
60" V4 and V6 60-95 - 5.7-1 0.7
90" V4, V6 and V8 48-96 - 5.4-1 0.9
Power pack (ignition module)
90" V4 (cross-flow) 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
60" V4 and V6
(loop-charged) 50-95 - 5.7-1 0.7
90" V4, V6 and V8
(loop-charged) 48-60 - 5.46.8
I (continued)
276 CHAPTER SEVEN
Table 6 ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION TORQUE VALUES (continued)

I Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. N-m I
Sensor coil (timing sensor)
60" V4 and V6
(loop-charged)
90" V4, V6 and V8
Spark plugs
Stator assembly
Starter motor
Mounting screws
Through-bolts
60" V4 and V6
(loop-charged)
90" V4
90"V6 and V8
Pinion housing screws
I Rectifier
Voltage regulator
1 (rectifierlregulator)
Table 7 FLYWHEEL NUT (OR SCREW) TORQUE VALUES

Model
p p p
In.-lb.
p p
tt.-lb. Nmm I
90" V4 (cross-flow) -
60" V4 and V6 (loop-charged)
Flywheel screws 276-300
Timing wheel screw 120-144
Flywheel cover screws 40-50
90"V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) -
Table 8 CHARGING SYSTEM (ALTERNATOR) IDENTIFICATION

Model 8yskm 1
90" V4 (cross-flow)
1995 models
80 jet
Tlller handle 6 amp non-regulated
Remote control 9 amp regulated
85 BackTroller 10 amp regulated
88 and 112 Special
Extra-longshaft (25 in.) 9 amp regulated
Wand 115 hp 9 amp regulated
1996-1997models
88,90,112 and 115 Special
Extra-longshaft (25 in.) 9 amp regulated
1998 models
90 and 115 Special 9 amp regulated
60" V4 (loop-charged) 20 amp regulated
130 hp 9 amp regulated
150-300 hp and 105 jet 35 amp regulated
Table 9 IGNITION SYSTEM IDENTIFICATION

Model System Features RPM limit I
90" V4 (cross-flow) I
65 jet CD4 None 5800 I
80 jet (1995-1997) CD4 None 5800

85 BackTroller CD4 None None
88,90,112 and 115 Special CD4 None None
90and115hp
(1995-1996) CD4 None None
80 jet (1998) OIS2000 SLOW, QuikStart 6400
90and115hp
(1995-2002) OIS2000 SLOW, QuikStart 6400
60" V6 (loop-charged) OIS2000 SLOW, QuikStart 6100
90" V4 (loop-charged) CD4 SLOW, QuikStart 6700
90" V6 (loop-charged) CD6 SLOW, QuikStart 6700
90" V8 (loop-charged) CD8 SLOW, QuikStart 6700 I

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Eight
Power Head
This chapter provides power head removal, installation, Make sure that the work bench, work station, engine
disassembly, assembly, cleaning and inspection proce- stand or holding fixture is of sufficient capacity to support
dures for all power heads used on 85-300 hp and 65-105 the size and weight of the power head. This is especially
jet models. On all models, the power head can be removed important when working on larger engines.
from the outboard motor, without removing the entire
outboard from the boat.
Since this chapter covers a large range of models, span- SERVICE CONSIDERATIONS
ning several model years, the power heads from different
model groups differ in construction and require different Performing internal service procedures on the power
service procedures. Whenever possible, engines with simi- head requires considerable mechanical ability. Carefully
lar service procedures are grouped together. Refer to Table consider your capabilities before attempting any operation
1for engine family identification. involving major disassembly of the engine.
The components shown in the accompanying illustra- If after studying the text and illustrations in this chapter,
tions are generally from the most common models. While you decide not to attempt a major power head disassembly
it is possible that the components shown in the illustrations or repair, it may be financially beneficial to perform certain
may not be identical to those being serviced, the step-by- preliminary operations yourself. Consider separating the
step procedures cover every model in this manual. Ex- power head from the outboard motor and removing the
ploded illustrations, typical of each power head model fuel, ignition and electrical systems and all accessories
group are located in the appropriate assembly section and yourself, taking only the basic power head to the dealer-
are helpful references for many service procedures. ship for the actual overhaul or major repair.
This chapter is arranged in a normal disassembly/assem- Since most marine service departments often have
bly sequence.When only a partial repair is required, follow lengthy waiting lists for service (especially during the
the procedure to the point where the faulty parts can be spring and summer seasons), this practice can reduce the
replaced, then jump ahead to reassemble the unit. Many time your unit is in the shop. If you have done much of the
procedures require the use of manufacturer recommended preliminary work, your repairs can be scheduled and per-
special tools, which can be purchased from an Evinrude or formed much quicker. Always discuss your options with
Johnson outboard dealership. the dealer before appearing at the dealership with a disas-
Power head work stands and holding fixtures are avail- sembled engine. Dealers will often want to install, adjust
able from specialty shops, marine suppliers or marine and and test run the engine to be comfortable providing war-
industrial product distributors. ranty coverage for the overhaul or repair.
POWER HEAD 279
No matter who is doing the work, repairs will proceed $re extinguisher rated for gasoline and oil
much quicker and with less difficulty if the motor is $fires nearby in case of an emergency.
cleaned before starting any service procedure. There are
Once you decide to do the job yourself, read this chapter
many special cleaners available from any automotive sup-
thoroughly until you have a good idea of what is involved
ply store. Most of these cleaners are simply sprayed on,
in completing the repair satisfactorily. Make arrangements
then rinsed off with a garden hose after the recommended
to buy or rent the necessary specialtools and obtain a source
time period. Always follow all instructions provided by the
for replacement parts before starting. It is frustrating and
manufacturer. Cleaning solvent must not be applied to
time-consuming to start a major repair and then be unable
electrical and ignition components and must never be
to finish because the necessary tools or parts are not avail-
sprayed into the induction system.
able.
WARNING NOTE
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. A series of at leustjivephotograph, takenfrom
Gasolinepresents an extremefire and explo- thefront, reas top and both sides of the power
sion hazard. Work in a well-ventilated area head (before removal) will be very helpful
when using cleaning solvents. Keep a large during reassembly and installation. The pho-
tograph are especially we&l when trying to
mute electrical harnesses, fuel, primer and
recirculation lines, and installing accessories,
MODEL control linkages and brackets.
IDENTIFICATION PLATE
Before beginning the job, review Chapter One and
Chapter Two of this manual. You will do a better job with
4
this information fresh in your mind.
1 Table 1lists engine family identification. Tables 2-4 list
torque values, Table 5 lists all power head specifications.
Table 6 lists all manufacturer recommended special tools
and Table 7 lists the model number's design feature codes.
All Tables are located at the end of the chapter.
EVINRUDEYJOHNSON MODEL
1. Model number
2. Serial number IDENTIFICATION
3. Date of manufacture
4. Place of manufacture Johnson and Evinrude outboard motors are identified by
5. Rated power a model identification plate (Figure 1, typical). The plate
6. Weight is actually a decal affixed to the port side of the swivel
- bracket, which is part of the engine's mid-section.
The identification plate always contains at least the
model and serial numbers and the name of the manufac-
turer. Newer model identification plates (Figure 1)contain
all of the following information:
1. Model number-The model number is actually a series
of letters and numbers. The model number is explained in
a following section.
2. Serial number-The serial number is a letter followed
by an eight-digit number. The serial number is unique to
the engine and identifies it for title, insurance, warranty
and theft recovery purposes. It is not normally required
when ordering parts, but should be noted and taken along.
When the motor was built, the serial number was also
stamped on a large core plug (Figure 2, typical) affixed to
the cylinder block. If the power head has been replaced
with an OMC Genuine Parts replacement power head
CHAPTER EIGHT
assembly, the core plug will be stamped with the replace- boat's transom height. The height code is located between
ment power head's part number. the design feature and the model year codes.
3. Date of manufacture-This is the date (year, or month If the code is L, the motor is a 20 in. (508 mm) model,
and year) the motor was built. This does not always agree often called a long shaft. If the code is X, the motor is a 25
with the model year, as an OMC model year is not the same
in. (635 mm) model, often called an extra-long shaft. If
as a calendar year.
the code is Z, the motor is a 30 in. (762 mm) model, often
4. Place of manufacture-The engines in this manual may called an extra, extra-long shaft.
be assembled in the United States, Australia, Belgium,
Hong Kong or South America. If the transom height does not match the motor, the
5. Rated power-This figure is the motor's rated power gearcase will be either too high or low in the water. If the
output in kilowatts. Multiply kilowatts by 1.34 to get the gearcase is too high, the motor may not receive adequate
horsepower equivalent. cooling water and the propeller will ventilate excessively.
6. Weight-This figure is the motor's weight in kilograms. If the gearcase is too low, the drag from the gearcase will
Multiply kilograms by 2.2 to get the equivalent weight in reduce the boat's speed and fuel economy. In either case,
pounds. performance and handling will be adversely affected.
6. Model year-This will be a two letter code, near the
Model Number end of the model number. Possible model codes for the
engines covered in this manual are: EO (1995),ED (1996),
The model number contains coded information in the EU (1997) or EC (1998). These codes are based on the
following order: word INTRODUCES. A number is assigned to each letter
1. Model variation-The model variation tells if the en- of the word, in sequential order. I stands for 1, N for 2, T
gine is built in the United States, a foreign country or if the for 3 and so on. For example, the code EO stands for a 9
engine was specially styled for a boat manufacturer (cus- and a 5, or 1995. This system has been in effect since the
tom paint andlor graphics). 'Qpical model variations are: 1981 (CI) model year.
A (Australia), B (Belgium), H (Hong Kong) or S (South 7. Model mn-This code (if present) is the last letter in
America). Other codes indicate models built for a particu- the model number. A model run code is used to identify an
lar boat manufacturer using special styling. If no code is engine change occurring within a model year. Any such
present, the engine was built in the United States and change will affect service procedure(s) or replacement
contains no special styling. part(s).
2. Style-The style code will indicate if the engine is an
Evinrude, Johnson or an OMC Commercial engine. Pos- Possible model run codes for 1995 (EO) models are A,
sible codes are E (Evinrude), J (Johnson) or none (OMC B, C, M, P,R, S and V. Possible model run codes for 1996
commercial engine). Commercial engines are not covered (ED) models are A, B, C, E, M and R. Possible model run
in this manual. codes for 1997 (EU) models are A, B, C, D, E, M and R.
3. Horsepower-The horsepower is rounded to the near- Possible model run codes for 1998 (EC) models are A, B,
est whole horsepower. For example, the 9.9 horsepower is C, D, E, M and S. Always note the model run code when
listed as a 10on the model identificationplate. Horsepower ordering parts.
ranges for the engines covered in this manual are 85-300 The model number shown in Figure 1is J90TSLECM.
hp. Jet models are identified by their propshaft horsepower Break the model number up as follows: J, 90, TS, L, EC
equivalent. The 65 jet is identified as a 90 hp, the 80 jet is and M. Locate the horsepower and model year codes first.
identified as a 115 hp and the 105jet is identified as a 150 Remember that only certain letters are used as codes for
hp- each part of the model number and that there may be no
4. Designfeature-The design feature is one, two or three model variation or model run codes.
letters long. The design feature is always located immedi-
ately after the horsepower. See Table 7 for common design In this example, the engine is a Johnson 90 hp motor
feature codes. If your design feature code is not listed in style code J and horsepower code 90), built in the United
Table 7, see your EvinrudeIJohnson dealer. States (because there is no model variation code). It has
5. Transom height-The transom height code is often trim and tilt, electric start and special styling (design
called the shaft length. The transom height code specifies feature codes T and S) and is a long shaft (transom height
the height of the motor as measured from the antiventila- code L), designed for a 20 in. (508 mm) transom. It is a
tion plate to the point where the stern brackets contact the 1998 model year engine (model year code EC) and was
top of the transom. This must match or be very close to the built during the model run called M.
POWER HEAD
POWER HEAD BREAK-IN be set to these specifications to comply with EPA certiti-
cation.
Whenever a power head has been rebuilt or replaced, or All repairs and/or serviceprocedures must be performed
if any new internal parts have been installed, it must be exactly as specified in this manual to ensure the engine will
treated as a new engine. The engine must be run on the continue to comply with EPA requirements. For the same
specified fueUoil mix and operated in accordance with the reason, all replacement parts must meet or exceed the
recommended break-in procedure described in Chapter manufacturer's specifications. Failure to properly main-
Four. tain, repair or adjust the motor can result in substantial
penalties.
CAUTION
Failure to follow the recommended break-in Any modification that would affect the engine's emis-
procedure will result in premature engine sions output is not allowed on an EPA certified engine.
failure. This includes:
1. Changing ignition timing and/or carburetors.
2. Carburetor re-jetting (other than standard high-altitude
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS- modifications).
1998 AND LATER MODEL YEAR ENGINES 3. Any performance modification such as changing the
All engines built for the 1998 and later model year are cylinder andlor piston port timing (or shape) and/or any
equipped with an EPA certification plate (Figure 3, typi- cylinder head alterations.
cal) mounted near the model identification plate on the en- If in doubt as to whether a repair or service procedure
gine's midsection. will adversely affect the engine's ability to maintain EPA
compliance, contact an Evinrude or Johnson dealer, before
The EPA certification plate contains the following infor-
beginning the repair or procedure.
mation:
1. The manufacturer-In this case, the manufacturer is
OMC (Outboard Marine Corporation). SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS
2. Statement of model year certification-This lists the
If the engine has experienced a failure, every attempt
model year of emissions regulations that the engine is cer-
must be made to determine the cause of the failure. Refer
tified to meet. In this case it is 1998.
to the Engine section at the end of Chapter Three for
3. Certification data-This section contains an engine troubleshooting procedures.
family code, the family emissions level (FEL) indicating
Many failures are caused simply from using the incor-
the hydrocarbon output in grams per kilowatthour, the en-
rect (or stale) fuel and lubricating oil. Refer to Chapter
gine displacement in cubic inches, the required engine oil
Four for all fuel and oil recommendations.
and fuel and an exhaust emission control system code of
EM (standing for engine modification [no catalytic con- When rebuilding or performing a major repair on the
verter]). power head, consider performing the following steps to
prevent the failure from reoccurring.
4. Technical data-This section lists the required spark
1. Service the water pump. Replace the impeller and all
plug(s) and gap, the WOT (wide-open throttle) ignition
timing and the idle timing and idle speed. The engine must seals and gaskets. See Chapter Nine.
2. Replace the thermostats and remove and inspect the
relief valve components as described in this chapter. Re-
place any suspect components.
3. Drain the fuel tank(s) and dispose of the old fuel in an
approved manner.
4. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel and add the recom-
mended oil to the fuel tank at the break-in ratio as de-
scribed in Chapter Four.
5. Replace (or clean) all fuel filters. See Chapter Four.
6. Clean and adjust the carburetors. See Chapter Six.
7. Oil-injected models-Drain and clean the oil reser-
voir(~).Dispose of the old oil in an approved manner.
Change the sock-type filter on the reservoir pickup (Chap-
ter Eleven), then refill the oil system with the specified oil
CHAPTER EIGHT
(Chapter Four) and bleed the oil system as described in improvisedfrom a common household elec-
Chapter Eleven. trical outlet cover or a piece of Lucite with
8. Install new spark plugs. Use only the recommended one edge ground to a 45" angle. Extreme
spark plugs listed in Chapter Four. Make sure the spark caution must be used ifa metal scrape?;such
plugs are correctly torqued as described in Chapter Four. as a putty knife is used. Nicks, scratches and
gouges will prevent the sealantfrom curing.
9. Perform the synchronization and linkage adjustments The crankcase cover-to-cylinder block sur-
as described in Chapter Five before returning the motor to face must not be scratched or damaged and
service. may not be lapped, sugaced or machined.
LUBRICANTS, SEALANTS OMC Gel Seal 11 Sealant is the only sealant recom-
AND ADHESIVES mended to seal the crankcase cover-to-cylinderblock mat-
ing surfaces on all models. Prior to using Gel Seal II, the
The part numbers for the lubricants, sealants and adhe- mating surfaces must be treated with OMC Locquic
sives called for in this chapter are all listed in the Quick Primer, following the instructions on the container. If
Reference Data section at the front of this manual. Equiva- Locquic Primer is not used, the assembly must be allowed
lent (after-market)products are acceptable for use, as long to set for 24 hours before returning the unit to service. The
as they meet or exceed the original manufacturer's speci- sealant bead must be applied to the inner (crankshaft) side
fications. of all crankcase cover screw holes, but must not be applied
During power head assembly, all internal engine com- closer than 114 in. (6.35 rnrn) to crankshaft bearings or seal
ponents must be lubricated with EvinrudelJohnson two- rings (if equipped).
cycle (TCW-3) outboard motor oil. Do not assemble any
components.Lubricate all seal lips and O-rings with OMC CAUTION
Triple Guard Grease. Lubricate and hold all needle and OMC Gel Seal ZI has a shelf life of appmxi-
roller bearings in place with OMC Needle Bearing Assem- mately one year at room temperature. I f the
bly Grease. age of the Gel Seal II is questionable, or it
To efficiently remove carbon deposits from the pistons has been stored in a high-temperature area,
use a new tube. Using Gel Seal that is too old
and combustion chambers use OMC Engine Tuner. Allow
will result in crankcase air leakage, requir-
ample time for the cleaner to soften carbon deposits. ing major disassembly to reseal the crank-
When no other sealant or adhesive is specified, coat all case halves.
gaskets with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. However,
do not apply any sealant to gaskets that are specified to be
installed dry. Apply OMC Ultra Lock threadlocking adhesive to the
Coat the threads of all external fasteners (if no other threads of all internal fasteners (where no other adhesive
sealant or adhesive is specified) with OMC Gasket Sealing or lubricant is specified).
Compound to help prevent corrosion and ease future re-
moval.
When sealing the crankcase coverlcylinder block, both
mating surfaces must be completely free of all sealant
residue, dirt, oil or other contamination.The manufacturer
specifically recommends using OMC Gel Seal and Gasket
Remover and a plastic scraper to remove the original Gel
Seal 11 sealant residue. The new Gel Seal I1 sealant will not
properly seal and harden ifthe old sealant is not completely
removed.
Locquic Primer, lacquer thinner, acetone or similar sol-
vents may be used if OMC Gel Seal and Gasket Remover
is not available. However, solvents with an oil, wax or
petroleum base must not be used.
CAUTION
Clean all mating s u ~ a c e carefully
s to avoid
nicks and gouges. A plastic scraper can be
POWER HEAD
Whenever a threadlocking adhesive is called for, always knife is used, great skill and patience must be displayed to
clean the surface to be sealed or threads to be secured with prevent destroying the component being cleaned.
OMC Locquic Primer. Locquic Primer cleans and primes
the surface and ensures a quick secure bond by leaving a NOTE
thin film of catalyst on the surface or threads. The primer Use plate glass (or a machinist's surface
must be allowed to air dry, as blow drying will remove the plate or straightedge) for surface checking.
Ordinary window glass does not have a uni-
catalyst.
form surface and will give inaccurate read-
ings. Plate glass has a very uniform surface
Seal Installation flatness.
Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the outer Once the surfaces are clean, the component can be
diameter of all metal-cased seals before pressing the seals checked for warpage by placing the component onto a
into place. piece of plate glass or a machinist's surface plate. Apply
Apply OMC DPL (or WD-40) Lubricant to the outer uniform downward pressure and try to insert a selection of
diameter of all rubber-cased seals before pressing the seals feeler gauges between the plate and the component. The
into place. DPL will lubricate the seal and allow it to slide specification for maximum cylinder head warpage on all
into position without cutting the rubber case. The DPL will models is 0.004 in. (0.102 mm).
then evaporate, preventing the seal from sliding out of its If a cylinder head is warped more than 0.004 (0.102
bore under operation. If gasket sealing compound or any mm), it must be lapped, resurfaced or replaced. Do not
grease is used, the seal will be ejected from its bore under remove more than 0.010 in. (0.254 mm) of material from
operation. a cylinder head.
Lubricate the rubber lip(s) of all seals with OMC Triple
Guard Grease, before installation. CAUTION
The cylinder block-to-crankcase cover mat-
ing surfaces may not be lapped or resur-
SEALING SURFACES faced.
Clean all sealing surfaces carefully to prevent nicks and To remove minor warpage, minor nicks, scratches,
gouges. Often a shop towel soaked in solvent can be used traces of sealant or gasket material, place a large sheet of
to rub gasket material and/or sealant from a mating sur- 320-400 grit wet sandpaper onto the plate glass or surface
face. If a scraper must be used, try using a plastic scraper plate. Apply light downward pressure and move the com-
(such as a household electrical outlet cover) or a piece of ponent in a figure-eight pattern as shown in Figure 4. Use
Lucite with one edge ground to a 45" angle to prevent a light oil (such as WD-40) to keep the sandpaper from
damage to the sealing surfaces. If a metal scraper or putty loading up. Remove the component from the sandpaper
and recheck the sealing surface.Amachinist's straightedge
may be used to check areas that cannot be accessed using
the glass or surface plate. See Figure 5.
It may be necessary to repeat the lapping process several
times to achieve the desired results. Never remove any
more material than is absolutely necessary. Make sure the
component is thoroughly washed to remove all grit before
assembly.
FASTENERS AND TORQUE
Always replace a worn or damaged fastener with one of

equal size, type and torque requirement. Power head
torque values are listed in Tables 2-4. If a specification is
not provided for a given fastener, use the standard torque
value listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the
front of this manual.
CHAPTER EIGHT
Determine the fastener size by measuring the shank of power head while preparing for complete disassembly. If
the fastener as shown in Figure 6. Determine the thread complete disassembly is not necessary, stop disassembly
pitch with the appropriate Metric or American thread pitch at the appropriate point, then begin reassembly where
gauge as shown in Figure 7. disassembly stopped. The power head should be removed
Damaged threads in components and castings may be as an assembly if major repairs must be performed. On
repaired using a Heli-Coil (or equivalent) stainless steel most models, power head removal is not required for
threaded insert (Figure 8, typical). Heli-coil kits are cylinder head removal, intake and exhaust cover removal,
available from automotive, marine or industrial supply ignition component replacement, fuel system component
stores. replacement and reed blocwintake manifold removal.
CAUTION Before removing the power head assembly, it is a good

Metric and American fateners may be used idea to make a sketch or take a series of photographs
on these engines. Always match a replace- showing the location, routing and positioning of wires,
ment fastener to the original. Do not run a hoses and clamps for reference during reassembly. Note
tap or thread chaser into a hole or over a bolt where wires, ground co~ectionsand washers are located
without first verifying the thread size and so they can be reinstalled in their correct positions. Unless
pitch. specified otherwise, install star washers on the engine side
Unless specified otherwise, components secured by of ground connections.
more than one fastener must be tightened a minimum of
three steps. Evenly tighten all fasteners hand-tight (snug)
as a first step. Then evenly tighten all fasteners to 50% of
the specified torque value as the second step. Finally,
evenly tighten all fasteners to 100%of the specified torque
value as the third step.
Be sure to follow torque patterns (sequences) as di-
rected. If no pattern is specified, start at the center of the
component and tighten in a circular pattern, working out-
ward. All applicable torque sequences are listed in the
appropriate Assembly section of this chapter.
Retorque the cylinder head screws after the engine has
reached operating temperature and been allowed to cool.
To retorque the cylinder head screws (and any other fas-
teners desired), loosen each fastener approximately one
turn, then retighten to the specified torque value. Repeat
the process until all of the fasteners are retorqued.
Spark plugs must be properly tightened to ensure proper
heat transfer and to prevent preignition and detonation.
Spark plugs must be retorqued after the engine has reached
operating temperature and cooled. Do not loosen the spark
plug, simply retighten the plug to the specified torque
value.
FLYWHEEL
All flywheel service procedures are covered in Chapter

Seven.
POWER HEAD REMOVAIJLNSTALLATION
The removal and installation procedures in this chapter

represent the most efficient sequence for removing the
POWER HEAD
RemovaVInstallation a. Remove the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin secur-
(90"V4 Cross-FLOWModels) ing the shift handle's linkage to the shift lever. Lo-
cate and secure the bushing in the shift lever.
The power head is best removed with most of the acces- I
b. Remove the screw securing the throttle cable to the

sories and systems left installed. Remove these items after
spark control arm. Locate and secure the washer
the power head has been separated from the exhaust hous-
between the cable and control arm.
ing. Refer to the end of the book for wiring diagrams.Make
sure all cable clamps are reinstalled in their original posi- c. Remove the screw securing the throttle cable's an-
tions and new tie-straps are installed to replace any that chor to the bracket on the air intake cover. Locate
were removed. and secure the washer between the cable and the
Only Arnphenol connectors are used on 1995 models, manifold.
while Deutsch and Amphenol connectors are used on d. Position the throttle cable and shift handle's link off
1996-1998 models. to the side of the power head.
The thermostats and relief valves are located in a sepa-
rate housing just below the rear of the power head. See A, NOTE
Figure 9. On 65 and 80 jet drive (remote control)
models, it is not necessary to disconnect the ,
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads and remove the spark
shift cablefrom the jet pump unit. I
plugs to prevent accidental starting.

2. Disconnect both battery cables from the battery. Then
disconnect the cables from the power head. Note each 3B. Remote control (outboard) models-Disconnect thL
throttle and shift cables as described in Chapter Twelve.
1
connection's location and the cable routing for reassembly.
3A. Eller handle models-Disconnect the shift linkage 4A. Eller handle models-Disconnect the shift shaft (or
I
and throttle cable as follows: shift rod) as follows:
I
1. Standard screw
2. Thread insert
3. Tapped hole
4. Installationtool
CHAPTER EIGHT
a. 85BackTroller models-Remove the screw (Figure a. Disconnect the lower cowl mounted trirnltilt switch
10, typical) securing the gearcase shift shaft to the leads from their bullet connectors (A, Figure 13).
bellcrank at the port end of the shift shaft. The leads are green, blue and red.
b. 80 jet models-Disconnect the shift rod (going to b. Disconnect the trimltilt motor from the engine har-
the jet pump unit) from the engine's shift lever. ness at the large, locking two-pin (blue and green
Remove the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin secur- leads) connector. The connector is located at the top
ing the shift rod's upper threaded connector to the (or bottom) of the port cylinder head. See A, Figure
shift lever. 14, typical.
4B. Remote control (outboard) models-Remove the clip
(Figure 11) from the starboard end of the shift rod, then
push the shaft toward the port side of the power head to
disconnect the shift rod from the shift lever bellcrank.
5A. Except oil injected models-Disconnect the fuel sup-
@
ply line from the fitting on the fuel pump cover (Figure
12). Cap the fitting and plug the line to prevent contami-
nation.
NOTE
Do not disconnect any lines at the oil injec-
tion pump unless the pump is going to be
replaced. It is very easy to damuge the plas-
tic jittings and body of the pump when re-
moving the lines.
5B. Oil-injected models-Refer to Chapter Eleven for

additional information on the V R O ~pump unit.
a. Remove the three screws (and washers) securing the
m2 pump unit to the air intake cover base.
b. Disconnect the pulse line from the crankcase fitting.
Do not disconnect the fuel and oil supply lines.
c. Disconnect the pump unit electrical leads from the
four-pin Arnphenol connector. The four leads are tan
Shift rod screw
(or tanlyellow), black, gray and purple.
d. Pullthe pump unit away from the power head. Allow
the pump to lay over the lower cowl (supported by
the fuel and oil supply lines).
6. Trim/tilt models-Proceed as follows:
POWER HEAD 287
c. Disconnect the trim sending unit's two-pin Amphe- switch leads from their bullet connectors.Both leads
no1 connector (black or blackltan and whiteltan are bluelwhite and are generally located on the port
leads). Then separate the ground lead from its bullet side of the power head.
connector. Thls is a black lead connected to a green 7A. 1995Eller handle models-Disconnect the electrical
lead. The connectors are located at the top (or bot- leads as follows:
tom) of the port cylinder head. See B, Figure 14. a. Disconnect the stop switch blacklyellow lead from
Note that on 85 BackTroller models, the green lead its one-pin Amphenol connector. Then disconnect
is connected directly to one of the ignition coil the stop switch black lead from the power pack
mounting screws. mounting screw. Note the orientation of the washers
before removing the lead, then reinstall the screw to
d. On models equipped with the FasTrak trim and tilt
secure the washers.
unit (Chapter Ten), also disconnect the tilt limit
b. Disconnect the ignition (key) switch at its four-pin
Arnphenol connector (black, purple redlpurple and
blacklyellow leads). Then disconnect the warning
horn at its three-pin Amphenol connector (tan, pur-
ple and black leads).
c. Disconnect the primer button red lead from the
starter solenoid's battery positive terminal and the
purplelwhite lead from the primer solenoid's bullet
connector.
d. Disconnect the start button yellowlred lead from the
starter solenoid and the purple lead from its bullet
connector.
e. Disconnect the oil tank's tan and black leads from
their bullet connectors.
7B. 1995Remote control models-Disconnect the electri-
cal leads as follows:
a. Disconnect the main remote control harness at the
large, red 10-pin connector.
b. Oil-injected models-Disconnect the remote oil
tank's leads (tan and black) at their bullet connec-
tors.
c. Trimhlt models-Disconnect the trimltilt switch
and sending unit harness from the engine at its 5-pin
Amphenol connector. The five leads are
greedwhite, whiteltan, blackltan, bluelwhite and
redlpurple.
CHAPTER EIGHT
7C. 1996-1998 Remote control models-Refer to Figure Figure 15). The leads are greedwhite, bluelwhite
15 and disconnect the electrical leads as follows: and whiteltan.
8. Disconnect the water discharge tell-tale hose from the
NOTE fitting on the starboard rear corner of the lower cowl. Then
Figure 15shows the typical locationfor the disconnect the water hose connecting the bottom of each
various connectors. Actual connector loca- cylinder head to the thermostat housing.
tion may vary. 9. Remove the lower cowl's trim covers as follows:
a. Remove the four screws securing the front trim
a. Remove the access cover from the connector box on cover to the rear cover. See Figure 16.
the port side of the power head. b. Remove the two screws securing the rear portion of
b. Disconnect the main harness six-pin Deutsch con- the trim cover to the lower cowl. These screws are
nector (A, Figure 15, typical). The leads are located just below each hose coming from the
blacklyellow, yellowlred, blacklwhite, purple, thermostat housing. Then remove the rear trim
redlpurple and purplelwhite. cover.
c. Disconnect the system check six-pin Deutsch con- c. Remove the two screws securing the front portion of
the trim cover to the lower cowl. The screws are
nector (B, Figure 15). The leads are gray, black,
tanlblack, tanlyellow and tan. Pin No. 2 is vacant (on accessed from below the lower cowl. Then remove
the engine harness side). the front trim cover.
d. Remove the two screws securing the lower cowl to
d. Oil-injected models-Locate and disconnect the re- the support brackets (near the intake manifold) on
mote oil tank's two-pin Deutsch connector (C, Fig- each side of the power head. See B, Figure 13.Make
ure 15, typical). The leads are tan and black. sure you locate and secure the four washers from
e. Trimltilt models-Disconnect the switch and send- each screw. A ground strap (C, Figure 13)is secured
ing unit harness three-pin Deutsch connector (D, under the starboard screw (B).
POWER HEAD 289
CAUTION 11. Attach a suitable hoist to the lifting eye, then remove
At this point, there must be no hoses, wires the six screws and washers securing the power head to the
or linkages connecting the power head to the exhaust housing. See Figure 17, typical.
exhaust housing. Make sure that nothing will 12. Remove the two nuts securing the rear of the power
inteifere with power head removal before head to the adaptor plate. The nuts are recessed in the
continuing. pocket at the rear of the adaptor plate.
13. Remove the nut and washer (A, Figure 18) and screw
10. Install a lifting eye, such as part No. 396748 (or (B) securing each side of the front of the power head to the
equivalent) to the flywheel. Make sure the screws are adaptor plate. A ground strap is secured under the star-
threaded in far enough to ensure adequate thread engage- board nut (A, Figure 18).
ment. 14. Apply upward pressure with a suitable hoist while
rocking the power head to break the gasket seal between
the poker head and the exhaust housing. Then lift the
power head free from the exhaust housing and set it on a
clean bench or mount it to a suitable holding fixture.
15. Thoroughly clean all gasket material from the power
head and exhaust housing mating surfaces.
16. To install the power head, begin by positioning a new
base gasket (without sealant) onto the adaptor plate.
17. Coat the drive shaft splines with OMC Moly Lube.
Then wipe any excess lubricant from the top of the shaft.
18. Carefully lower the power head onto the exhaust
housing using the lifting eye and a suitable hoist. Make
sure the studs enter the proper holes in the adaptor plate.
Then rotate the crankshaft clockwise as necessary to align
the drive shaft splines.
19. Once the power head is seated on the exhaust housing,
coat the six long mounting screws, two short mounting
screws and all four studs with OMC Gel Seal 11. Install and
evenly tighten the six screws and washers to 16-18 ft.-lb.
(21.7-24.4 N.m). Then remove the hoist and lifting eye.
20. Install and evenly tighten the two short mounting
screws (and washers) and the four nuts and their respective
washers to 120-144in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N.m). Make sure the
ground lead is secured under the starboard (front) nut.
21. Install the lower cowl's front and rear trim covers as
follows:
a. Secure the lower cowl to the support brackets (near
the intake manifold) on each side of the power head.
Install the two screws (B, Figure 13),.making sure
the washer stack-up is large washer, small washer,
rubber grommet (with inner support tube), small
washer, large washer and screw. Tighten both screws
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). Make sure the ground
lead (C, Figure 13) is secured under the starboard
screw.
b. Position the front trim cover to the lower cowl and
secure it with four screws (Figure 16). Tighten the
screws securely.
c. Position the rear trim cover to the front trim cover.
Install the four screws hand-tight.
d. Secure the rear trimcover to the lower cowl withtwo
screws. Install the screws (B, Figure 9) just below
CHAPTER EIGHT
each thermostat hose. Tighten these screws to 60-84 cotter clip in the shift shaft hole at the starboard end of the
in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m), then tighten the four front-to- shaft, making sure the flat and wave washers are behind
rear cover screws securely. the clip as shown in Figure 11.
22. Connect the water discharge hose to the fitting on the 26A. Eller handle models--Connect the shift linkage and
starboard rear comer of the lower cowl. Then reconnect throttle cable as follows:
the water hose between the thermostat housing and the a. Position the shift linkage to the shift lever and secure
fitting on the bottom of each cylinder head. Securely it in place with the clevis pin, washer and a new
tighten all of the water hose clamps. cotter pin. Make sure the bushing is installed in the
23. Reconnect all electrical leads and harnesses discon- shift lever before installingthe clevis pin. Bend both
nected in Step 6 and Step 7. Refer to Chapter Seven, prongs of the cotter pin for a secure attachment.
Electrical Connector Service as necessary. All ring termi- b. Position the throttle cable to the spark control arm.
nal connections must be tightened securely, then coated Position a washer between the arm and the cable,
with OMC Black Neoprene Dip. then secure the cable and washer to the arm with a
24. Tridtilt models-Proceed as follows: screw. Tighten the screw securely.
a. Connect the lower cowl mounted W t i l t switch c. Position the throttle cable anchor to the bracket on
leads to their engine harness mates. Connect the the air intake cover. Position a washer between the
green switch lead to the engine harness greedwhite anchor and the bracket, then secure the anchor and
lead, the blue switch lead to the engine harness washer to the bracket with a screw. Tighten the screw
bluelwhite lead and the red switch lead to the engine securely.
harness redlpurple lead. See A, Figure 13.
26B. Remote control models--Connect the throttle and
b. Connect the W t i l t motor large two-pin (blue and shift cables to the power head as described in Chapter
green leads) connector to its engine harness mate. llvelve.
Make sure the connector locks together securely.
See A, Figure 14, typical.
c. Connect the trim sending unit's two-pin Amphenol
connector to its engine harness mate (B, Figure 14,
typical). Then connect the sending unit ground
(green) lead to its engine harness mate (C, Figure
14, typical). On 85 Backtroller models, connect the
green lead's ring terminal under the ignition coil
mounting screw (as noted during removal). Tighten
the ignition coil mounting screw to 48-96 in.-lb.
(5.4-10.9 N.m).
d. On models equipped with the FasTrak trim and tilt
unit (Chapter Ten), also connect the tilt limit switch
leads to their engine harness mates. Both leads are
bluelwhite.
25A. Tiller handle models--Connect the shift shaft (or
shift rod) as follows:
a. 85BackTroller models--Align the shift rod with the
bellcrank at the port end of the shift shaft. Install and
tighten the screw (Figure 10) to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-
9.5 N-m) to secure the shift rod to the bellcrank.
b. 80jet models--Connect the shift rod (going to the
jet pump unit) to the engine's shift lever. Align the
rod's upper threaded link with the shift lever and
install the clevis pin. Secure the pin with the washer
and a new cotter pin. Bend both prongs of the cotter
pin for a secure attachment.
25B. Remote control (propeller-driven) models-Align
the shift rod with the bellcrank at the port end of the shift
shaft. Then pull the shaft toward the starboard side of the
power head to lock the shift rod to the bellcrank. Install the
POWER HEAD
27A. Non-oil injected models--Connect the fuel supply RemovaVInstaIlation

line to the fitting on the fuel pump cover (Figure 12). Se- (60" V4 and V6 Models)
cure the connection with a new tie-strap.
Remove the power head with most of the accessories
27B. Oil-injected models-Refer to Chapter Eleven for
and systems left installed. Remove these items after the
additional information on the VR02 pump unit.
power head is separated from the exhaust housing. Refer to
a. Connect the pulse line to the crankcase fitting. Se- the end of the book for wiring diagrams. Make sure all ca-
cure the connection with a new tie-strap. ble clamps are reinstalled in their original positions and
b. Position the pump unit to the air intake cover base. new tie-straps are installed to replace any that were re-
Secure the pump with three screws and washers. moved.
Evenly tighten the screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 Only Amphenol connectors are used on 1995 models,
N.m). while Deutsch and Amphenol connectors are used on
c. Connect the pump unit four-pin Amphenol connec- 1996-2002 models.
tor to its engine harness mate. Make sure the wire 1. Disconnect the spark plug leads and remove the spark
bail is installed over the assembled connectors to plugs to prevent accidental starting.
prevent them from vibrating apart. 2. Disconnect both battery cables from the battery. Then
28. Connect both battery cables to the power head. Then disconnect the cables from the power head. Note each con-
connect both battery cables to the battery. Tighten all connection's location and the cable routing for reassembly.
nections securely. 3. Remove the air intake cover. Release the four rubber
29. Install the spark plugs and reconnect the spark plug straps from their anchor points on the power head, then
leads. Tighten the spark plugs to 18-21 ft.-lb. (24.4-28.5 pull the cover away from the carburetors. Make sure the
N.m). Refer to Chapter Thirteen for FFI Models. vent lines at the top starboard and bottom port comers of
the cover are disconnected before completely removing
30. Refer to Chapter Four for fuel and oil recornmenda-
the air intake cover from the engine.
tions and break-in procedures. Then refer to Chapter Five
4. Remove the throttle and shift cables as described in
and perform all synchronization and linkage adjustments.
Chapter Twelve. On 1998 80jet models, it is not necessary
to remove the shift cable from the jet pump unit.
5. Disconnect the oil and fuel supply lines as follows:
a. Remove the screw securing the cover for fuel and oil
lines and the electrical leads to the front of the port
lower split cowl.
b. Pull the cover (A, Figure 19) away from the lower
cowl and slide it up the lines and leads as shown in
Figure 19.
c. Disconnect the oil and fuel supply lines from the fit-
tings on the lower cowl (B, Figure 19). Cap both fit-
tings and plug both lines to prevent leakage and/or
contamination.
6. Remove the split lower cowl as follows:
a. Remove the two screws from the front of the cowl.
See Figure 20. Access the screws from the starboard
side of the engine.
b. Remove the two screws from the rear of the cowl.
See Figure 21. Access the screws from the starboard
side of the engine.
c. Remove the screw (C, Figure 19) securing the fuel,
oil and electrical bracket to the port cowl.
d. Disconnect the trimhilt switch leads (on the port
lower cowl) at their bullet connectors (A, Figure 13,
typical) or three-pin Deutsch connector (D, Figure
19). The switch leads are green, blue and red. The
engine harness leads are greedwhite, bluelwhite
and redpurple.
292 CHAPTER EIGHT
e. Remove the starboard and port lower cowl halves

from the engine. Lift the fuel, oil and electrical
bracket from the port cowl as it is removed.
7. Propeller-driven models-Remove the clip (A, Figure
22) from the shift shaft. Push the shift lever toward the
power head to disengage the shift shaft (C, Figure 22) from
the bellcrank (B) on the port end of the engine's shift shaft.
8. Remove the two screws (A, Figure 23) securing the
electrical connector cover (B) to the port cylinder head.
Then remove the cover.
9. Disconnect the trim and tilt electricalleads as follows:
a. Disconnect the tridtilt motor from the engine har-
ness at the large two-pin (blue and green leads) con-
nector. The connector is located below the relay
bracket on the poa front corner of the power head.
b. 1995 models-Disconnect the tridtilt switch and
sending unit harness from the engine at its 5-pin
greenlwhite, whiteltan, blackltan, bluelwhite and
redlpurple. The connector is located below the relay
bracket on the port front comer of the power head.
c. 1996-2002models-Disconnect the trimltilt switch
and sending unit harness from the engine at its
three-pin Deutsch connector. The three leads are
greenlwhite, bluelwhite and whiteltan. The connec-
tor is behind D, Figure
- 19.
d. Disconnect the trim sending unit's two-pin
Amphenol connector (whiteltan &d b l a c ~ t a nleads).
Then separatethe ground lead from its bullet connec-
tor. This is a black lead connected to a green lead.
e. Disconnect the tilt limit switch leads from their bul-
let connectors. Both leads are bluelwhite and are
generally located on the port side of the power head,
below the relay bracket.
10A. 1995 models-Disconnect the main remote control
harness at the large, red 10-pin connector and the remote
oil tank leads (tan and black) at their bullet connectors.
10B. 1996-2002 models-Disconnect the electrical leads
as follows:
POWER HEAD 293
I
a. Disconnect the main harness six-pin Deutsch con- snap hooks. The snap hooks and chain must
nector (A, Figure 24). The leads are black/yellow, be rated for at least 500 lb. (227 kg.).
yellowlred, blacklwhite, purple, red/purple and pur-
plelwhite. 11. Attach a suitable lifting chain and snap hooks to the
cast-in power head lifting eyes. See Figure 25. Then attwh
b. Disconnect the system check six-pin Deutsch con- a suitable hoist to the chain, making sure that equal lengths
nector (B, Figure 24). The leads are gray, tador- of chain are present on both sides of the attachment to the
ange, black, tanlblack, tanlyellow and tan. On V4 hoist. Apply just enough upward pressure with the hoist to
models, the tadorange lead is not used on the engine take the slack out of the chain.
wiring harness. 12. Remove the six screws and washers securing the
c. Locate and disconnect the remote oil tank two-pin power head to the exhaust housing. See Figure 17. Then
Deutsch connector @, Figure 19). The leads are remove the screw from the rear of the adaptor plate (Figure
black and tantblack. 26).
13. Remove the two screws securing the steering arm to
CAUTION the power head. See A, Figure 27. Then remove the four
At this point, there must be no hoses, wires screws securing the power head to the adaptor plate. See
or linkages connecting the power head to the B, Figure 27 or B, Figure 28 (front) and A, Figure 38
exhaust housing. Make sure that nothing will (rear). A ground strap (C, Figure 27) is installed under the
inte$ere with power head removal before front starboard screw (B, Figure 27 or B, Figure 28).
continuing. 14. Apply upward pressure with a suitable hoist while
WARNNG the power head and the exhaust housing. Then lift the
The chain used to lzft the power head must power head free from the exhaust housing and set it o n a
be at least 36 in. (91.5 cm) long between the clean bench or mount it to a suitable holding fixture.
I
STARBOARD PORT
CHAPTER EIGHT
15. Thoroughly clean all gasket material from the power rod to the bellcrank. Install the clip (A, Figure 22) in the
head and exhaust housing mating surfaces. shift shaft hole at the starboard end of the shaft, making
16A. V4 models-To install the power head, proceed as sure the flat and wave washers are behind the clip.
follows: 24. Reconnect all electrical leads and harnesses discon-
a. If using base gasket part No. 339601, coat the two nectedin Step 9 and Step 10.Refer to Electrical Connector
rectangular exhaust ports on the adaptor plate deck Service in Chapter Seven as necessary. Tighten all ring
with Permatex No. 2 sealing compound. Then coat terminal connections securely and coat them with OMC
both sides of a new base gasket with OMC Gasket Black Neoprene Dip.
Sealing Compound. Position the gasket onto the 25. Install the split lower cowl as follows:
adaptor plate deck (exhaust housing). a. Position the cowl halves to the power head. Lift the
b. If using base gasket part No. 343853, coat both sides fuel, oil and electrical bracket and seat it into the port
of a new base gasket with OMC Gasket Sealing Com- cowl during installation.
pound. Position the gasket onto the adaptor plate deck
(exhaust housing). Do not coat the adaptor plate deck
with Permatex No. 2 if using this gasket.
16B. V6 models-To install the power head, begin by
coating the two rectangular exhaust ports on the adaptor
plate deck with Permatex No. 2 sealing compound. Then
coat both sides of a new base gasket with OMC Gasket
Sealing Compound. Position the gasket onto the adaptor
plate deck (exhaust housing).
18. Carefully lower the power head onto the exhaust hous-
ing using the lifting eye and a suitable hoist. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise as necessary to engage the drive shaft
splines. Be careful not to displace the base gasket as the
Gwer head is lowered into
19. Once the power head is seated to the exhaust housing,
coat the mounting screws (except the steering arm screws)
with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install the six large
screws and washers (Figure 17) and the five small screws
(Tigure 26 and Figure 28). Tighten the screws finger-tight
at this time. Make sure the ground strap is installed under
the starboard front screw as shown in F i r e 27.
20. Install the two steering arm screws (A, Figure 27) and
evenly tighten them to 100-105 ft.-lb. (135.6-142.4 N.m).
21. Tighten the six large screws (Figure 17) to 18-20
ft.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N.m). Then tighten the five small screws
(Figure 26 and Figure 28) to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
22. Once all of the screws are properly tightened, remove
the hoist and lifting chain.
NOTE
The power head mounting screws (Step 21)
must be retorqued after the engine has
reached operating temperature and has
cooled down (to ambient temperature). Fail-
ure to retorque the screws will result in pre-
mature base gasket failure.
23. Align the shift rod (C, Figure 22) with the bellcrank
(B) at the port end of the shift shaft. Then pull the shaft
toward the starboard side of the power head to lock the shift
POWER HEAD 295
b. Connect the lower cowl mounted trimkilt switch

lead bullet connectors (or three-pin Deutsch connec-
tor) to their engine harness mate(s).
ASPIRATOR PUMP c. Connect the water discharge tell-tale hose to the rear
(V4 AND V8 MODELS) corner of the starboard cowl.
d. Install and evenly tighten the two front (Figure 20)
and two rear (Figure 21) screws.
e. Install and tighten the screw (C, Figure 19) to secure
the fuel, oil and electrical bracket to the port lower
cowl.
26. Connect the throttle and shift cables as described in
Chapter Twelve.
27. Connect the oil and fuel supply lines as follows:
a. Connect the fuel line to the 5/16 in. fitting on the
fuel, oil and electricalbracket. Secure the connection
with the worm clamp. Tighten the clamp securely.
b. Purge and connect the oil supply line (to the 114 in.
fitting on the fuel, oil and electrical bracket) as
described in Chapter Eleven. Use a new ratchet type
clamp to secure the connection. Tighten the clamp
securely.
c. Slide the cover (A, Figure 19)toward the lower cowl
until it snaps into position. Then install and securely
tighten the cover screw.
28. Connect both battery cables to the power head asnoted
on disassembly. Then connect both battery cables to the
battery. Tighten all connections securely.
29. Install the air intake cover. Make sure the vent lines at
the top starboard and bottom port comers of the cover are
connected before completely seating the air intake cover
to the carburetors. Then connect the four rubber straps to
their anchor points on the power head.
30. Install the spark plugs and reconnect the sparkplug leads.
Tighten the spark plugs to 18-21ft.-lb. (24.4-28.5 N-m).
31. Refer to Chapter Four for fuel and oil recornrnenda-
tions and break-in procedures (as needed). Then refer to
Chapter Five and perform all synchronization and linkage
adjustments.
1. Water intake RemovaVInstallation (90" Loop-Charged Models)

2. Intake check valve
3. Tie-straps Remove the power head with most of the accessoriesand
4. intake hose systems left installed. Remove these items after the power
5. Adaptor plate hose
6. Cap
head is separated from the exhaust housing. Refer to the
7. Aspirator pump end of this book for wiring diagrams. Make sure all cable
8. inner sealing washer clamps are reinstalled in their original positions and new
9. Outer flat washer tie-straps are installed to replace any that were removed.
10. Nut
11. O-ring Only Amphenol connectors are used on 1995 models,
while Deutsch and Amphenol connectors are used on
1996-1998 models.
V4 and V8 models are equipped with an aspirator pump
(7, Figure 29) that is designed to remove any water that
CHAPTER EIGHT
may enter the lower cowl area. The pump creates suction from the starboard side on V4 models and the port
in the intake line (4, Figure 29) as water is discharged into side on V6 models.
the pump from the power head (or adaptor plate) hose (5). b. Remove the two screws from the rear of the cowl
A check valve (2, Figure 29) in the water intake (1) (Figure 21, typical). The screws are accessed from
prevents the pump from filling the cowl with water (should the starboard side on V4 models and the port side on
it malfunction).The pump's lowest fitting is always capped V6 models.
(6, Figure 29). Power steering models have an additional c. When ready to remove each cowl half, remove the
fitting (not shown) for the water line coming from the clip securing the half to its mounting stud(s), then
power steering cooler. pull the cowl half from the engine. Lift the fuel, oil
To remove andlor install the power head, proceed as and electrical lines from the appropriate cowl half as
follows: it is removed.
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads and remove the spark 8B. V8 models-Remove the split lower cowl as follows:
plugs to prevent accidental starting.
a. Remove the three screws from the rear of the cowl.
NOTE The screws are accessed from the starboard side of
There are two thumbscrews on the air intake the engine.
cover used on V4 models and four thumb- b. Remove the three screws from the front of the cowl.
screws on V6 models. V8 models use two V4 One screw is located just below the front cowl latch.
air intake cover assemblies and it is neces- The other two screws are located underneath the
saiy to remove both covers. lower cowl, just above the steering arm.The screws
2. Remove the air intake cover(s). Turn the thumbscrews are accessed from the starboard side of the engine.
on the front of the silencer(s) counterclockwiseuntil they c. When ready to remove each cowl half, remove the
are free. Then pull the cover(s) from the engine, being clip (if equipped) securing the half to its mounting
careful to disconnectany drain or vent hoses from the cover stud(s), then pull the cowl half from the engine. Lift
body. the fuel, oil and electrical lines from the appropriate
3. Disconnect both battery cables from the battery. Then cowl half as it is removed.
disconnect the cables from the power head. Note each
connection's location and the cable routing for reassembly. NOTE
4. Disconnect the throttle and shift cables as described in When removing the power steering system,
do not disconnect any lines that carrypower
Chapter Twelve.
steeringfluid. Remove the system and lay it
5. V4 and V8 models-Remove the nut and washer (10
and 9, Figure 29) securing the aspirator pump to the rear
corner of the starboard split lower cowl, then pull the pump
up and out of the lower cowl. Locate and secure the inner
sealing washer (8, Figure 29) and O-ring (11). Reinstall
the nut, washer, seal and O-ring onto the aspirator pump to
prevent their loss.
6. Power steering models-Remove the screw, washer
and nut securing the power steering hose support bracket
halves to the bottom of the starboard split lower cowl. Then
remove the bracket halves.
7. Disconnect the trirn/tilt switch leads (on the starboard
lower cowl) at their bullet connectors or three-pin Deutsch
connector. The switch leads are green, blue and red. The
engine harness leads are greenlwhite, bluelwhite and
redlpurple.
8A. V4 and V6 models-Remove the split lower cowl as
follows:
a. Remove the two screws at the front of the cowl. The
screws are accessed from the starboard side of the
engine. One screw is located near the front cowl
latch, the other screw is located under the lower
cowl, just above the steering arm. Access the screws
to one side during power head removaUin- ing washers from the hole next to the oil level
stallation. dipstick.
9. Power steering models-Remove the power steering d. Remove the screw, spacer and two special locking
system as follows: washers securing the power steering filter to the
starboard cylinder bank. The filter is the vertical
a. Loosen the upper and lower pivot screws and nuts canister directly below the pump and reservoir as-
(C, Figure 30), then loosen the belt tensioner adjust- sembly. See Figure 31.
ment nuts (D) to relieve all tension on the belt.
e. Remove the water lines from both ends of the power
b. Remove the six screws (A, Figure 30) holding the steering cooler. Do not remove the power steering
pulley to the flywheel. Then remove the flywheel as fluid lines from the side of the cooler. The cooler is
described in Chapter Seven. the horizontal canister just below the starboard cyl-
inder head.
c. Remove the four screws securing the stator assembly
(Chapter Seven) to the upper crankcase head. Lift the f. Remove the two screws securing the power steering
stator as necessary to access the pump mounting cooler to the power head. Then remove any remain-
screw and two special locking washers under the ing clamps, brackets or tie-straps and carefully pull
stator. Then remove the screw and two special lock- the system from the power head. Lay the system in
CHAPTER EIGHT
I
the boat's splash well, being careful not to kink or d. Disconnect the trim sending unit's two-pin
bend any of the lines. Amphenol connector (whiteltan and blackltan leads).
10. Remove the screw securing the gearcase shift shaft to Then separate the ground lead from its bullet connec-
the bellcrank on the port end of the engine's shift shaft. See tor. This is a black lead connected to a green lead.
Figure 32, typical. e. V4 and V6 models-Disconnect the tilt limit switch
leads from their bullet connectors. Both leads are
CAUTION bluelwhite and are generally located near the relay
It is very easy to damage the plastic fittings bracket (or relay junction box) on the port side of the
when removing the fuel and oil lines. When power head.
removing fuel andlor oil linesfrom a plastic 14A. 1995 models-Disconnect the main remote control
fim'ng, push the line o$ of the fitting when- fiarness at the large, red ten-pin connector. Then discon-
ever possible. Pulling on the line only tight- pect the remote oil tank's tan and black leads from their
ens its grip on thefitting. Ifnecessary, cut the pullet connectors.
line with a razor knife and peel the linefrom 14B. 1996-2002 models-Disconnect the remaining elec-
the fitting.
p a l leads as follows:
11A. V4 and V6 models-Disconnect the fuel supply line a. Disconnect the main harness six-pin Deutsch con-
from either side of the inline fuel filter. Cap the filter and nector. The leads are blacWyellow, yellowlred,
plug the line to prevent leakage and contamination. blacwwhite, purple, redpurple and purplelwhite.
11B. V8models-Disconnect the fuel supply line from the b. Disconnect the system check six-pin Deutsch con-
fuel manifold fitting that branches off to each V R O pump
~ nector. The leads are gray, tanlorange, black,
unit and the fuel vacuum switch. Cap the fitting and plug tanlblack, tanlyellow and tan. On V4 models, the
the line to prevent leakage and contamination. See Figure tadorange lead is not used on the engine wiring har-
33. ness.
12A. V4 and V6 models-Disconnect the oil supply line c. Locate and disconnectthe remote oil tank's two-pin
from the splice connector between the VRo2 pump unit Deutsch connector. The leads are black and
and the lower cowl grommet. If not equipped with a splice tadblack.
connector, disconnect the oil supply line from the oil inlet CAUTION
fitting (6, Figure 34, typical). Cap the fitting and plug the At thispoint, there must be no hoses, wires or
line to prevent leakage and contamination. linkages connecting the power head to the
12B. V8 models-Disconnect the oil supply line from the exhaust housing. Make sure that nothing will
oil manifold fitting that branches off to each V R O pump~
unit. See Figure 34. Cap the fitting and plug the line to pre-
vent leakage and contamination.
13. Disconnect the trim and tilt electricalleads as follows:
a. Disconnect the trim/tilt motor from the engine har-
ness at the large two-pin (blue and green leads) con-
nector. The connector is located near the relay
bracket (or relay junction box) on the port side of the
power head.
b. 1995 models-Disconnect the trimltilt switch and
sending unit harness from the engine at its five-pin
greedwhite, whiteltan, blacwtan, bluelwhite and
redpurple. The connector is located near the relay
bracket (or relay junction box) on the port side of the
power head.
c. 1996-2002models-Disconnect the trirnltilt switch
and sending unit harness from the engine at its
three-pin Deutsch connector. The three leads are
1. Grommet
greedwhite, bluelwhite and whiteltan. The connec- 2. Screw
tor is in the electricaljunction box on the port side of
the power head. Remove the junction box cover to
gain access to the connector.
POWER HEAD 299 ~

FUEL MANIFOLD OIL MANIFOLD
1. Fuel supply line 1. Oil supply line

2. Spring clamp 2. Spring clamp
(or tie-strap) (or snapper clamp)
3. Fuel manlfold fitting 3. Oil manifold fitting
4. ~ o w e r V R 0 ~ 4. Line to upper
pump unR V R O ~pump unit
5. Line to upper 5. Line to lower
VRO~ pump unit vR02 pump unit
6. Line to fuel 6. V R O ~pump unit
primer solenoid oil inlet fitting
CHAPTER EIGHT
inte$ere with power head removal before 27. Evenly tighten the six (or eight) large, long mounting
continuing. screws to 18-20 ft.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N-m).
15A. Power steering models-Install a lifting eye, such as 28. Evenly tighten the three nuts and three smaller, shorter
part No. 396748 (or equivalent) onto the crankshaft screws to 144-168 in.-lb. (16.3-21.7 N-m). Then remove
threads. Make sure the lifting eye is fully threaded onto the the hoist and lifting eye.
crankshaft before proceeding.
15B. Non-power steering models-Install a lifting eye, NOTE
Retighten the power head mounting screws
such as part No. 396748 (or equivalent) to the flywheel. (Step 27 and Step 28) afier the engine has
Make sure the screws are threaded in far enough to ensure reached operating temperature and has
adequate thread engagement. cooled down to ambient temperature. Fail-
16A. V4 and V6 models-Attach a suitable hoist to the
lifting eye, then remove the six screws and washers secur-
ing the power head to the exhaust housing. See Figure 35,
typical.
16B. V8 models-Attach a suitable hoist to the lifting eye,
then remove the eight screws and washers securing the
power head to the exhaust housing.
17. Remove the two screws and two nuts and washers
securing the front of the power head to the adaptor plate.
There is one screw (A, Figure 36, typical) and one nut (B)
on each side. The screws are accessed from the bottom and
are located on each side of the steering arm.
18. Remove the two screws and one nut and washers
securing the rear of the power head to the adaptor plate.
The fasteners are easily accessed from the top.
19. Apply upward pressure with a suitable hoist while
the power head and the exhaust housing. Then lift the
power head free from the exhaust housing and set it on a
clean bench or mount it to a suitable holding fixture.
20. Thoroughly clean all gasket material from the power
head and exhaust housing mating surfaces.
21. To install the power head, begin by positioning a new
base gasket (without sealant) onto the exhaust housing.
23. Carefully lower the power head onto the exhaust hous-
ing using the lifting eye and a suitable hoist. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise as necessary to align the drive shaft
splines. Make sure the two studs at the front of the power
head and the single stud at the rear of the adaptor plate enter
the appropriate holes.
24. Once the power head is seated to the exhaust housing,
coat the six (or eight) large, long mounting screws with
OMC Gel Seal II and install them with their washers.
Tighten the screws finger-tight at this time.
25. Coat the three studs with OMC Gasket Sealing Com-
pound. Install the three nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts
finger-tight at this time.
26. Coat the three smaller, shorter screws with OMC Gel
Seal 11 and install them with their washers. Tighten the
screws finger-tight at this time.
I POWER HEAD 301
ure to retighten the screws will result in screws with OMC Nut Lock threadlockingadhesive,
premature base gasket failure. then install the two upper screws (each with two
special ramp locking washers.
29. Align the shift rod with the bellcrank at the port end
b. Position the spacer between the pump assembly and
of the shift shaft. Install and tighten the screw (Figure 32)
the filter. Install the screw with two special locking
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) to secure the shift rod to the
washers. Evenly tighten this screw and the two upper
bellcrank.
screws to 30-35 ft.-lb. (40.7-47.5 N.m).
30. Reconnect all electrical leads and harnesses discon-
nected in Step 13 and Step 14. Refer to Electrical Connec- c. Coat the threads of the two cooler mounting screws
tor Service in Chapter Sevenas necessary. All ring terminal with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Posi-
connections must be tightened securely, then coated with tion the cooler to the power head and secure it with
OMC Black Neoprene Dip. two screws. Tighten both screws securely. Then con-
nect the water lines to the fittings on the cooler ends.
31. Power steering models-Install the power steering
Securely clamp both connections.
system as follows:
a. Position the pump, filter and cooler to the power d. Install any remaining clamps and brackets. Replace
head. Coat the threads of the three pump mounting all tie-straps that were removed with new tie-straps.
e. Coat the stator mounting screw threads with OMC
Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install and evenly
tighten the four screws to 120-144in.-lb. (13.6-16.3
N.m). 1
SETTING BELT TENSION f. Install the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven.
(POWER STEERING MODELS) Then coat the threads of the pulley mounting screw
threads with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhe-
sive. Make sure the belt is correctly routed around
4 the flywheel, pump and tensioner pulleys, then hold
the flywheel pulley against the flywheel and install
the screws (A, Figure 30). Evenly tighten the screws
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.9-9.5 N.m).
NOTE
Ifbelt tension gauge (part No. 984850) is not
available, use an automotive belt tension
gauge. Take the reading in the same position
as that shown in Figure 37 and adjust the
tension until the gauge reads 25-30 lb. ten-
sion.
g. Hold the Belt Tension Gauge (part No. 984850) over

the belt and flywheel and tensioner pulleys as shown
in Figure 37. Adjust the belt tensioner nuts (D,
Figure 30) until the gauge's plunger is flush with the
end of the handle (4, Figure 37). Then tighten the
tensioner nuts (D, Figure 30) and the upper a y
lower pivot screws and nuts (C) to 108-132 in.-lb.
I
(12.2-14.9 N.m). I
I
I
1. Gauge (part No. 984850) NOTE

2. Tensloner pulley If installing a new power steering belt, re-
3. Flywheel pulley check the tension belt after 10 hours of op-
4. Plunger lush in end eration.
of gauge handle
32A. V4 and V6 models--Connect the fuel supply line to

the inlinefuel filter. Secure the connectionwith the original
I I
spring clamp or a new tie-strap.
CHAPTER EIGHT
32B. V8 models--Connect the fuel supply line to the fuel POWER HEAD DISASSEMBLY
manifold fitting. Secure the connection with the original
spring clamp or a new tie-strap. See Figure 33. Power head overhaul gasket sets are available for all
models. It is often more economical and always simpler to
33A. V4 and V6models-Purge and connect the oil supply
order the overhaul gasket set instead of each component
line to the V R O pump
~ unit's oil inlet fitting (6, Figure 34)
as described in Chapter Eleven. Secure the oil line connec- individually. Good mechanical practice requires that every
tion with the original spring clamp or a new snapper gasket, seal and O-ring be removed and discarded during
(ratchet) type clamp. power head disassembly and new ones installed during as-
sembly. The piston rings must be replaced if the pistons
34B. V8 models-Purge and connect the oil supply line to have been taken out of the cylinder bores, and it is highly
the oil manifold fitting (3, Figure 34) as described in recommended that the connecting rod screws be replaced
Chapter Eleven. Secure the oil line connection with the each time they are removed. If the piston is separated from
original spring clamp or a new ratchet type clamp. the connecting rod, new wrist pin locking clips must be
35. Install the split lower cowl as follows: used during assembly.
a. Position each cowl half to the engine and pilot them A large number of fasteners of different lengths and
onto the mounting studs. If equipped with clips, in- sizes are used in a power head. Use plastic sandwich bags
stall the clips to hold the cowl halves in position. Lift and/or cupcake tins to keep small parts organized. Tag all
the fuel, oil and electrical lines into the recess in the larger internal parts for location and orientation. A
appropriate cowl half. felt-tippedpermanent marker can be used to mark compo-
b. Power steeringmodels-Make sure the power steer- nents after they have been cleaned. Avoid scribing or
ing lines and their grommet are piloted into the stamping internal components as the marking process may
groove in the bottom of the starboard cowl. damage or weaken the component.
c. Install the mounting screws. Evenly tighten all NOTE
screws. Another series of at least six photographs,
36. V4 and V8 models-Make sure the O-ring and inner taken from the front, rear, top, bottom and
seal are installed on the aspirator pump, then position the both sides of the power head will be very
helpful during reassembly. The photographs
aspirator pump into the hole in the rear comer of the star-
are especially useful when trying to route
board lower cowl. Then install the outer washer and nut. electrical harnesses, fuel, primer and
Tighten the nut securely, keeping in mind that it is plastic. recirculation lines, and installing accesso-
See Figure 29. ries and control linkages.
37. Power steering models-Install the support bracket
halves around the power steeringlines below the starboard Clean and inspect all power head components before
cowl. Then secure the bracket halves with the screw, any assembly occurs. If the power head has had a failure, it
washer and nut. Tighten the screw and nut securely. may be more economical to replace the basic power head
as an assembly.
38. Connect the trimltilt switch leads to their correspond-
ing bullet connectors (or three-pin Deutsch connector). Manufacturer recommended special tools for the fol-
The switch leads are green, blue and red. The engine har- lowing procedures can be found in Table 6. Remember
ness leads are greedwhite, bluelwhite and redlpurple. that parts damaged by not using the correct tool can often
be more expensive than the original cost of the tool. Rec-
39. Connect the throttle and shift cables to the power head ommended lubricant, sealants and adhesives are listed in
as described in Chapter Twelve. the Quick Reference Data section at the front of this man-
40. Connect both battery cables to the power head as ual.
noted on disassembly. Then connect both battery cables to
the battery. Tighten all connections securely.
Taper Pin Service
41. Install the spark plugs and reconnect the spark plug
leads. Tighten the spark plugs to 18-21 ft.-lb. (24.4-28.5 One or two tapered pins are used to precisely locate the
N-m). Refer to Chapter Thirteen for FFI models. crankcase halves to each other on all models. Taper pins
42. Refer to Chapter Four for fuel and oil recommenda- must be removed before the crankcase cover can be sepa-
tions and break-in procedures (as needed). Then refer to rated from the cylinder block. The pins must be driven to-
Chapter Five and perform all synchronization and linkage ward the intake manifold (front of the engine) during
adjustments. removal.
POWER HEAD 303
A special tool, fabricated as shown in Figure 38, is the bore. In either case, the cylinder block may be irreparably
only recommended tool for removing the taper pins. The damaged.
tool allows the pin to be driven straight from its bore,
without damaging the pin or the power head. Fabricate the CAUTION
tool from a piece of 112 in. (12.7 mm) thick, 2 in. (50.8 Tapered pins must be driven out toward the
mm) wide and 11.5 in. (292.1 mm) long piece of cold- intake manifold @nt of the engine). Never
rolled steel. A hole may be drilled in the tool's upper end drive the taper pins toward the cylinder
head. The block will be irreparably dam-
for storage purposes. aged.
If you do not have the equipment to fabricate the tools,
most welding or machine shops can manufacture it for you.
For the tool to be durable enough for repeated use, it must Dowel Pins
be surface hardened (0.015-0.020 in. [0.38-0.51 mm]
deep) by carbwizhg and quenching to achieve a rating of Dowel pins are used to locate and secure the crankshaft
58-62 on the Rockwell C scale. main bearing races to the cylinder block (or crankcase
Under no circumstances should a punch (or any other cover) on some models. Dowel pins do not have to be
tool) with a tip diameter smaller than the head of the taper removed if they are securely seated in their bores. How-
pin be used to remove the pin. The pin's head will mush- ever, they must be accounted for during disassembly and
room (expand), and/or the punch may enter the taper pin assembly. If a dowel pin can be readily removed from its
TAPER PIN REMOVAL TOOL
1. 1-118 in. (28.6 mm)

2. 2 in. (51.8 mm)
3. 518 in. (15.9 mm)
4. 15" angle
5. 114 in. (6.35 mm)
inside radius
6. 518 in. (15.9 mm)
outside radius
7. 5 in. (127 mm)
8. 1/2 in. (12.7 mm)
9. 9112 in. (241.3 mm)
10. 11.5 mm (292.1 mm)
CHAPTER EIGHT
bore, it must be removed and stored with the other internal CAUTION
components until reassembly begins. Always use new wrist pin locking clips on
reassembly.
Wrist Pin Locking Clips Connecting Rod Service
All connecting rods are of the fractured cap design and

The wrist pin is locked into each end of its bore with a
require a special fixture (part No. 396749) to correctly
wire-type locking clip. If removed, the clips must be
align the cap.
discarded and new clips used during assembly.
A fracturedcap design means that the cap is broken from
Wrist pin clip remover (part No. 325937) or equivalent the rod during the manufacturing process, leaving a jagged
is highly recommended for easy removal of the locking (fractured) mating surface that will mate perfectly if in-
clips. If the remover is not available, one can be fabricated stalled in its original orientation. If the cap is installed in
from a pair of standard needlenose pliers. Modlfy the pliers a reverse position and the rod screws are tightened, the rod
by removing 3/16 in. (4.8 mm) from one tip, then grinding will be distorted and must be discarded. While alignment
it as shown in Figure 39. Work slowly and with light marks are provided, always mark the rod and cap with a
pressure, stopping often and allowing the tip to cool. If not, felt-tippedpermanent marker for redundancy. Correct ori-
the heat treatment will be lost and the modified tip will not entation will be obvious if the time is taken to examine the
be durable. mating surfaces of the rod and cap.
WRIST PIN LOCKING CLIP

REMOVAL TOOL
1. Remove 3/16 in. (4.8 mm)

2. 1M6 in. (1.6 mm)
3. 1132 in. (0.79 mm)
4. 3/32 in. (2.4 mm)
POWER HEAD
The special fixture contacts the rod cap and rod body on 6. Note the location of all clamps, then remove the 16
four machined comers, applying a predetermined clamp- screws securing each cylinder head cover to its cylinder
ing force. The fixture is left in place during the torquing head. Carefully separate each cover from its head, being
process, ensuring perfect rod cap alignment. careful not to distort or damage the covers. Then remove
and discard the gaskets. Do not damage the sealing sur-
NOTE faces during the removal process.
Use new connecting rod bolts on reassembly. 7. Carefully pry the temperature switch (31, Figure 40)
If the rod cap is not perfectly aligned to the rod's body,
from each cylinder head with a small screwdriver. Do not
pierce or damage the electrical lead's insulation.
the bearing surface will not be aligned, resulting in ex-
tremely noisy operation and premature bearing failure. 8. Note the locations of all clamps, lower cowl support
This will destroy the connecting rod and the crankshaft. brackets and ground studs (or leads) on the intake covers.
Then mark each intake port cover as to its location. Re-
move the six screws securing each cover to the cylinder
Disassembly (90"V4 Cross-FlowModels) block. Carefully separate each cover from the block, being
careful not to damage the sealing surfaces. Then remove
Since the power head is removed with all accessories and discard the gaskets.
installed, it is necessary to first remove all accessories and 9. Note the location of any clamps, then remove the six
systems from the power head. screws securing the water passage cover (11, Rgure 40)
All components (such as bearings, pistons and connect- to the top of the cylinder block. Carefully separate the
ing rods) that are to be reused must be marked with their cover fromtheblock, being careful not to distort or damage
original location and orientation for assembly purposes. the cover and sealing surfaces.
Do not remove the large ball bearing from the bottom of
the crankshaft unless it must be replaced. NOTE
Once the power head is disassembled,refer to the Power The exhaust cover on 88 and 90 h~ models
Head Cleaning and Inspection section and clean and in- isflat, while the cover used on l l i and 115
spect all components before assembling the power head. models incorporates a large bubble at the
bottom. See Figure 40. Thefasteners are all
Refer to Figure 40 and Figure 41 for this procedure.
the same length on 88 and 90 hp models,
1. Remove the flywheel and the electric starter motor as while diferent lengthfasteners are used on
described in Chapter Seven. 112 and 115 hp models. Additionally, a sin-
2. Remove the carburetors, fuel pump (except oil-injected gle, internal screw (20,Figure 40) is used on
models), fuel primer solenoid, intake manifold reedblocks 112 and 115 hp models to hold the inner
and all fuel, primer and external recirculation lines. See exhaust manifold to the cylinder block. Note
Chapter Six. the position and length of each screw as it is
3. Remove the ignition and electrical system as described removed on these models.
in Chapter Seven. This includes the stator assembly, sensor
coil, power pack, ignition coils, voltage regulator (or rec- 10. Note the position of any clamps or brackets on the
tifier) and the wiring harness. Remove the trim/tilt relay exhaust cover, then remove the 21 (88 and 90 hp models)
junction box and harness on models with trim and tilt. Do or 19 (112 and 115 hp models) screws securing the outer
not ~ ~ S C O Mcomponents
~ C ~ from each other unless abso- exhaust cover to the cylinder block. Carefully tap around
lutely necessary; simply remove the mounting screws, the perimeter of the outer cover with a soft-faced mallet to
cable clamps and tie-straps. break the gasket seal, then remove the cover. Remove and
4. Remove the screw securing the throttle control arm to discard the gasket. Do not damage or distort the cover and
the starboard side of the crankcase cover. Then remove the sealing surfaces during the removal process.
throttle control arm and the throttle cam as an assembly. 11A. 88 and 90 hp models--Carefully tap around the
Reassemble the arm and install a suitable nut to keep the perimeter of the inner cover with a soft-faced mallet to
components together. break the gasket seal, then remove the cover. Remove and
5. Mark each cylinder head as to its location (port or discard the gasket. Do not damage or distort the cover and
starboard). Remove the ten screws securing each cylinder sealing surfaces during the removal process.
head to the cylinder block. Carefully pull each head from 1lB. 112 and 115 hp models-Remove the single screw
the block, then remove and discard the gaskets. If neces- (20, Figure 40) securing the inner exhaust cover to the
sary, tap the heads with a soft-faced hammer to break the cylinder block, then carefully tap around the perimeter of
gasket seal. Do not damage the sealing surfaces during the the inner cover with a soft-faced mallet to break the gasket
removal process. seal, then remove the cover. Remove and discard the
CHAPTER EIGHT
gasket. Do not damage or distort the cover and sealing

surfaces during the removal process.
CAUTlON
Do not remove the exhaustfiller blocks (Fig-
ure 42) on 112 and 115 hp models unless
they must be replaced. Ifremoved, the cylin-
der block's exhaust cover mating surfaces CYLINDER BLOCK ASSEMBLY
must be machined to ensure a positive seal.
(90' V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS)
12. 112 and 115 hp models--If necessary, bend the lock
tab away from the exhaust filler block screws (3 each 1. Cylinder block
block) and remove the screws. Since screws are sealed 2. Crankcase cover
3. Taper pin
with Loctite, it may be necessary to heat the area around 4. Flange screws
the screw with a heat lamp, heat gun or propane torch to 5. Main bearing screws
loosen the adhesive. Remove and discard the filler blocks 6. Dowel pin
(Figure 42). 7. Plug
8. Internal recirculation
check valve
CAUTlON 9. Idle stop bracket
Do not damage the taper pins or their bores and screw
during removal, or the cylinder block will be 10. Gasket
ruined. 11. Water cover
12. Screw
13. Auxiliary lifting bracket
13. Using the tool shown in Figure 38 (or equivalent), 14. Screw
drive the taper pins (located at the top port and lower 15. Gasket
starboardcomers of the crankcase cover) toward the intake 16. Inner exhaust cover
manifold side (front) of the power head. Position the tool's 17. Gasket
18. Outer exhaust cover
extended toe over each taper pin and hold the main body 19. Screw
of the tool parallel to the pin. Remove the pins from their 20. Screw (inner exhaust cover)
bores. 21. Water discharge
elbow and hose
14. Remove the four screws securing the upper crankcase 22. Water hose
head to the cylinder block. Then remove the eight screws 23. Spring clamps
securing the lower crankcase head to the block. See 1, 24. Water deflector
Figure 43. Do not remove the bearing retainer plate screws 25. Head gasket
at this time. 26. Cylinder head
27. Gasket
28. Cylinder head water cover
NOTE 29. Head bolt
Four main bearing screws are located in the 30. Cover screw
intake passages of the crankcase cover The 31. Water temperature switch
remaining two are externally accessed at the 32. Gaskets
very bottom of the covel: 33. Intake cover (upper)
34. Screw
35. Intake cover (lower)
15. Remove the 14 crankcase cover-to-cylinder block 36. Lower cowl
screws. Remove the eight flange screws (4, Figure 40) support bracket
first, then loosen the six main bearing screws (5) in several 37. Ground strap, screw
and washer
stages until there is no tension on the screws. Remove the
main bearing screws, noting the length of each screw and
its original location.
CAUTION
The crankcase cover and cylinder block are
a matched, align-bored unit. Do not scratch,
nick or damage the machined mating sur-
faces.
POWER HEAD 307
For 112 and 115 models
For 88 and 90 models 17
308 CHAPTER EIGHT
CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY (90"V4 [CROSSFLOW] MODELS)
27- 0
1. Upper seal
2. Screw
3. Upper crankcase
head and bearing 12. Ball bearing 21. Bearing screw
4. O-ring 13. Retaining ring 22. Connecting rod and cap
5. Flywheel key 14. O-ring 23. Rod cap screw
6. Crankshaft (drive shaft seal) 24. Bearing assembly
7. Seal ring 15. Crankshaft sleeve 25. Thrust washers
8. Retaining ring 16. O-ring 26. Loose needles
9. Bearing race halves 17. Lower seal 27. Wrist pin lock clips
10. Caged roller 18. Lower crankcase head 28. Wrist pin
bearing halves 19. Crankcase head screw 29. Piston
11. Retalner plate 20. Seal 30. Piston rings
POWER HEAD
16. Position the power head with the crankcase cover

facing upward. Using a soft-faced mallet, carefully tap the
flywheel end of the crankshaft in an upward direction until
the crankcase cover separates from the cylinder block.
Then lift the cover off of the cylinder block. Use caution
not to nick, scratch or damage the crankcase cover and
cylinder block mating surfaces.
NOTE
At this point only the connecting rods are
securing the crankshaft into the crankcase.
Make sure the crankcase is not positioned
where the crankshaft can fall out as the pis-
tons are removed.
17. Mark the corresponding cylinder number on the con-

necting rods with a felt-tipped permanent marker. Mark the
connecting rods and rod caps in such a manner that the rod
caps can be reinstalled in their original orientation. Note
any special alignment marks (such as cast dots). I
18. Remove each connecting - rod and piston assembly as
follows:
a. Remove the connecting rod screws from the upper
connecting rod using connecting rod screw socket
(part No. 331638) or an equivalent heavy-duty 5/16
in. 12-point thin-wall socket. Alternately loosen
each screw a small amount until all tension is off of
I LOWER CRANKCASE HEAD

both screws. The rod cap screws for No. 1 and No.
2 cylinders are shown in Figure 44.
b. Tap the rod cap with a soft metal (brass) mallet td
separate the cap from the rod.
1. Lower crankcase head screws

2. Bearing retainer plate screws
310 CHAPTER EIGHT
c. Remove the cap and rod from the crankshaft, then

remove the 18 roller bearings and two cage halves
from the crankshaft.
d. Be prepared to catch and support the piston with one
hand, then push the piston and connecting rod as-
sembly from the cylinder bore with the other. Make
sure the connecting rod does not damage the cylin-
der wall, nor contact the piston skirt during and after
removal.
e. Reinstall the rod cap to the connecting rod in its
original orientation. Tighten the rod cap screws fin-
ger-tight.
f. Store the piston and connecting rod and the bearing
components in a clean numbered container, corre-
sponding to the cylinder number.
g. Repeat this procedure to remove the remaining con-
necting rod and piston assemblies.
NOTE
The bearing in the upper crankcase head is
not serviceable. Ifdarnaged, replace the up-
per crankcase head as an assembly.
19. Lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block, then slide
the upper crankcase head from the crankshaft.Remove and
discard the crankcase head's O-rings. Then drive the seal
1. Main bearing race

2. Retaining ring
3. Awl
POWER HEAD
from the crankcase head using a suitable punch. Do not seal from the crankcase head using a suitable punch. Do
damage or distort the seal bore during removal. Discard not damage or distort the seal bore during removal. Discard
the seal. the seal.
21. Remove the retaining ring from the center main bear-
20. Remove and discard the four screws (2, Figure 43)
ing as shown in Figure 45. Then remove the bearing race
securing the lower crankcase head to the crankshaft. Pull
and caged roller bearing halves. Store the bearing compo-
the crankcase head from the lower bearing. If it sticks, tap
nents in a labeled container.
it side-to-side with a soft-faced hammer. Then remove and
22. Remove the six seal rings from their crankshaft
discard the crankcase head's O-rings. Finally, drive the
grooves. Carefully expand the seal rings just far enough to
slip them from their grooves and over the adjacent bearing
surface. Label each ring so it can be reinstalled in its
original position and orientation.
23. Remove and discard the O-ring (drive shaft seal) from
inside the sleeve installed on the bottom of the crankshaft.
If the sleeve requires replacement, pull it from the crank-
shaft with a suitable two-jaw puller, such as puller jaws
(part No. 432129) and slide hammer (part No. 432128).
NOTE
1- Do not press directly against the end of the
crankshaft in the next step, as it and the
sleeve will be damaged. -
24. If the ball bearing must be replaced, remove the re-
taining ring (13, Figure 41) with a suitable pair of snap
ring pliers. Then support the bearing in a knife-edged
pressing plate. Press the bearing free from the crankshaft
1. Pin removal tool with a suitable mandrel (such as a scrap piece of drive
2. Piston shaft) that will fit into and press against the bottom of the
3. Piston cradle tool
crankshaft splined bore (Figure 46, typical). Then discard
the bearing.
25. Remove the piston rings from all pistons using a
standard piston ring expander. See Figure 47, typical.
Retain the rings for cleaning the piston ring grooves.
26. Using a lock clip remover (part No. 325937) or a
modified needlenose pliers (Figure 39), remove and dis-
card the two wrist pin locking clips from each piston. See
Figure 48, typical.
NOTE
The wrist pin is a slip-@ in both sides of the
piston. The pin can be pushed out in either
direction.
27. Place wrist pin remover (part No. 326356 [or equiva-
lent]) into one end of the No. 1 cylinder wrist pin bore.
Support the bottom of the piston with one hand and drive
the pin tool and pin from the piston. If necessary, support
the piston in the appropriate saddle of the piston cradle
(part No. 326572 [or equivalent]) and use a press to push
the pin from the piston. See Figure 49, typical.
1. Loose needle bearings
2. Bearing retainer plate screws 28. Remove the piston from the connecting rod. Remove
the two thrust washers and the 28 loose needle bearings
(Figure 50, typical). Store the components in a clean,
numbered container correspondingto the cylinder number.
CHAPTER EIGHT
29. Repeat the previous two Steps to separate the remain-

ing pistons and connecting rods.
30. Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection before
beginning reassembly procedures.
Disassembly (60" V4 and V6 Models)

Since four-cylinder models are essentially shortened
versions of six-cylindermodels), the exploded illustrations CYLINDER AND CRANKCASE
are of the six-cylinder model. All procedures specific to ASSEMBLY (60"V4 AND VG MODELS)
one model are indicated in the text.
Since the power head is removed with all accessories
installed, it will be necessary to first remove all accessories
and systems from the power head. 1. Cylinder block 32. Washer
2. Crankcase cover 33. Filter
All components that are to be reused must be marked 3. Taper pin 34. Grommet liner
with their original location and orientation for assembly 4. Flange screws 35. Worm clamp
purposes. Do not remove the large ball bearing from the 5. Main bearing screws 36. Exhaust relief
crankshaft unless it must be replaced. and washers and flushing port
6. Dowel pin 37. Tie-strap
Once the power head has been disassembled, refer to 7. Recirculation 38. O-ring
Power Head Cleaning and Inspection and clean and in- check valve 39. Water discharge
spect all components before assembling the power head. 8. Pulse line fitting fitting
9. Port cylinder head 40. O-ring
Refer to Figure 51 and Figure 52 for this procedure. 10. O-ring 41. Recirculation fitting
1. Remove the carburetors and throttle bodies, the fuel 11. Pipe plug 42. Screw
component bracket assembly and the intake manifolds and (water pressure port) 43. Shift bellcrank
reed blocks. See Chapter Six. 12. Thermostat seal 44. Screw
13. Starboard cylinder head 45. Retainer bushing
2. Remove the electric starter motor and starter solenoid 14. Thermostat 46. Bushing
as described in Chapter Seven. 15. Pressure relief spring 47. Wave washer
3. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven. 16. O-ring 48. Flat washer
Then remove the throttle control shaft and arm assembly 17. Thermostat cover 49. Cotter clip
18. Temperature 50. Shift shaft
(A, Figure 53) from the power head. Lift the shaft straight switch assembly 51. Bushing
up to free it from the power head mounting boss at the 19. Screw 52. Flat washers
bottom of the shaft. Locate and secure the washer under 20. Washer 53. Cotter pins
the shaft assembly. 21. Lower cowl mount 54. Shift lever link
22. Control cable 55. Rear shift lever
4. Remove the entire ignition and electrical system as trunnion block 56. Bushing
described in Chapter Seven. This includes the stator as- 23. Screw 57. Flat washer
sembly, ignition module and ignition coils, voltage regu- 24. Trunnion cover 58. Shoulder screw
lator, W t i l t relay bracket and the wiring harness. Do not 25. Screw 59. Slider bracket (V6)
disconnect components from each other unless absolutely 26. Lower cowl seals 60. Spring (V6)
27. Motor mount 61. Switch mounting
necessary; simply remove the mounting screws, cable 28. Steering arm screw bracket 016)
clamps and tie-straps. 29. Motor mount retainer 62. Cable mounting
5. Remove the two screws securing the trunnion anchor 30. Retainer screw Pin (V6)
bracket (B, Figure 53) to the crankcase cover. Remove the 31. Shift shaft seal 63. Shift assist
bracket from the cover. Locate and secure the bushing (51, switch (V6)
Figure 51) from the end of the shift shaft.
NOTE
V4 models do not use the shift assist switch
and related components (59-63,Figure 51).
6. Remove the shoulder screw (C, Figure 53) and washer
securing the rear shift lever to the starboard side of the
power head. Then remove the shift bellcrank screw (44,
Figure 51). Slide the bellcrank from the shift shaft, then
POWER HEAD 313
314 CHAPTER EIGHT
CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY
(60"V4 AND V 6 MODELS)
1. Upper seal
2. Flywheel locating pin
3. Encoder wheel key
4. Seal ring
5. Crankshaft
6. Connecting rod screw
7. Caged bearing halves
8. Connecting rod and cap
9. Thrust washers
10. Wrist pin lock clips
11. Piston rings
12. Piston
13. Wrist pin
14. Loose needles
15. Retaining ring
16. Bearing race halves
17. Caged roller bearing halves
18. Ball bearing and locating ring
19. Retaining ring
20. O-ring (drive shaft seal)
21. Crankshaft sleeve
22. O-ring
23. Lower seal
24. Lower seal carrier
POWER HEAD 315
pull the shift shaft and rear shift lever off from the star-
board side of the power head as an assembly. Locate and
secure the wave and flat washers (47 and 48).
7. Remove the port shift shaft bushing (46, Figure 51) and
the starboard shift shaft retainer bushing (45) from the
crankcase cover bosses.
8. Remove all external recirculation lines. See Chapter
Six. Then remove the screw securing the lower recircula-
tion fitting (41, Figure 51) to the crankcase cover. Remove
and discard the O-ring (40).
9. Remove the thermostat cover from each cylinder head.
See Figure 54. Unscrew each cover using a spark plug
socket. Remove and discard the cover O-ring. Then re-
move the thermostat components (14-17, Figure 51) from
each cylinder head.
10. Remove the plastic nut securing the temperature
switchto each cylinder head. See Figure 55. Carefully pull
each switch from its cylinder head.
11. Mark each cylinder head as to its location (port or
starboard).Remove the 14 (V4) or 20 (V6) screws securing
each cylinder head to the cylinder block. Carefully pull
each head from the block, then remove the O-rings (10,
Figure 51) from their grooves in the cylinder block and
discard them. If necessary, tap the heads with a soft-faced
hammer to break the seal. Do not damage the sealing
surfaces during the removal process.
12. Remove and discard the thermostat seal from the
cylinder block side of each cylinder head.
13. Using the tool shown in Figure 38 (or equivalent),
drive the taper pin (3, Figure 51) toward the crankcase
cover side (front) of the power head. Position the tool's
extended toe over the taper pin and hold the main body
of the tool parallel to the pin. Remove the pin from its
bore.
14. Remove the crankcase cover-to-cylinder block
screws. Remove the 14 (V4) or 18 (V6) flange screws (4,
Figure 51) first, then loosen the six 01'4) or eight (V6)
main bearing screws (5) in several stages until there is no
tension on the screws. Remove the main bearing screws,
noting, the length of each screw and its original location.
CAUTION
The crankcase cover and cylinder block are
a matched, align-bored unit. Do not scratch,
faces.
15. Position the power head with the crankcase cover

facing upward. Using a soft-faced mallet, carefully tap the
flywheel end of the crankshaft in an upward direction until
the crankcase cover separates from the cylinder block.
Then lift the cover off of the cylinder block. Use caution
316 CHAPTER EIGHT
not to nick, scratch or damage the crankcase cover and

cylinder block mating surfaces.
NOTE
At this point, only the connecting rods are
securing the crankshaft into the crankcase.
Make sure the crankcase is not positioned
where the crankshaft can fall out as the
pistons are removed.

necting rods with a felt-tipped permanent marker. Mark
the connecting rods and rod caps in such a manner that the
rod caps can be reinstalled in their original orientation.
Note any special alignment marks such as cast dots.
17. Refer to Figure 52 and remove each connecting rod
and piston assembly as follows:
a. Remove the connecting rod screws (6, Figure 52)
from the upper connecting rod using connecting rod
screw socket (part No. 331638) or an equivalent
heavy-duty 5/16 in., 12-point thin-wall socket. Al- I
ternately loosen each screw a small amount until all
tension is off of both screws. 1. Main bearing race
b. Tap the rod cap with a soft metal (brass) mallet to 2. Retaining ring
3. Awl
remove the two caged roller bearing halves (7, Fig-
ure 52) from the crankshaft.
hand, then push the piston and connectingrod assem-
bly from the cylinder bore with the other. Make sure
the connecting rod does not damage the cylinder wall,
nor contact the piston skirt during and after removal.
ger-tight.
f. Store the piston and connecting rod assembly and
the caged roller bearing halves in a clean numbered
container, corresponding to the cylinder number.
the upper seal from the crankshaft. Discard the seal.
19. Slide the seal carrier (24, Figure 52) from the lower
end of the crankshaft. Remove and discard the carrier
O-ring. Then drive the seal from the carrier with a suitable
punch. Do not damage the seal bore during the removal
process. Discard the seal.
20. Remove the retaining ring from the upper main bear-
ing as shown in Figure 56, typical. Then remove the
bearing race and caged roller bearing halves. Store the
bearing components in a labeled container. Repeat this
step for the remaining bearings. Store each bearing's com-
ponents in a separate labeled container.
POWER HEAD
2 1. Remove the six (V4) or nine (V6) seal rings (4, Figure 23. If the ball bearing must be replaced, remove the re-
52). Carefully expand the seal rings just far enough to slip tainer ring (19, Figure 52) using a suitable pair of retaining
them from their grooves and over the adjacent bearing ring pliers. Support the bearing in a knife-edged pressing
surface. Label each ring so it can be reinstalled in its plate. Press the bearing free from the crankshaft with a
original location and orientation. suitable mandrel (such as a scrap piece of drive shaft) that
will fit into and press against the bottom of the crankshaft
22. Remove and discard the O-ring (20, Figure 52) from
splined bore. See Figure 57, typical. Then discard the
inside the sleeve (21) installed on the bottom of the crank-
shaft. If the sleeve requires replacement, pull it from the bearing.
crankshaft with a suitable two-jaw puller, such as puller 24. Remove the piston rings from each piston using a
jaws (part No. 432129) and slide hammer (part No. standard piston ring expander. See Figure 58. Retain the
432128). rings for cleaning the piston ring grooves.
25. Using lock clip remover (part No. 325937) or a modi-
NOTE fied needlenose pliers (Figure 39), remove and discard the
Do not press directly against the end of the two wrist pin locking clips from each piston. See Figure
crankshafr in the next step as it and the sleeve 48, typical. I
(if installed) will be damaged.

NOTE
The wrist pin is a slipfit to both sides of the
direction.
26. Place wrist pin remover (part No. 3 18599 [or equiva-
Support the bottom of the piston with one hand and drive
the pin tool and pin from the piston. If necessary, support
the piston in the appropriate saddle of piston cradle (part
No. 326572 [or equivalent]) and use a press to push the pin
from the piston. See Figure 59, typical. I I
27. Remove the piston from the connecting rod. Remove

the two thrust washers and the 28 loose needle bearingd
(Figure 60, typical). Store the components in clean num-
bered containers corresponding to the cylinder number.

1. Pin removal tool
2. Piston 2. Bearing retainer plate screws
CHAPTER EIGHT
28. Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remain-

ing pistons and connecting rods.
29. Remove the two tie-straps (37, Figure 51) and worm
clamp (35) securing the exhaust relief and flushing port
assembly (36) to the base of the power head. Pull the
assembly from the power head, then remove the filter (33,
Figure 51) and washer (32) from the power head. Replace
the filter if it cannot be satisfactorily cleaned.
30. Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection (this TYPICAL CYLINDER AND
chapter) before beginning reassembly procedures. CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY (90"V4, V6
AND V8 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
Disassembly (90" [Loop-Charged] Models)
1. Cylinder block 27. Thermostat cover
Since four-cylinder models are essentially shortened 2. Crankcase cover 28. Screw and washer
versions of six-cylinder models and V8 models are 3. Taper pin 29. O-ring
4. Flange screws 30. Nipple
essentially two V4 models stacked on top of each other, 5. Main bearing screws 31. Upper throttle
the exploded illustrations will be of the more common and washers control arm
models. All procedures specific to one model are indi- 6. Dowel pin 32. Lower throttle
cated in the text. Refer to Figure 61 and Figure 62 for 7. Internal recirculation control arm
check valve 33. Bushings
this procedure. V8 models incorporate a torsional 8. External recirculation 34. Flat washers
damper at the bottom of the crankshaft. This component check valve 35. Locknuts
is similar to the harmonic balancer found on automotive 9. Port cylinder head 36. Throttle link
engines. Because of the damper, V8 models do not use 10. Head gasket 37. Locknuts
11. Water restrictor 38. Bushings
the crankshaft sleeve (24, Figure 62) and O-ring (23) at (port side) 39. Rear shift lever
the bottom of the crankshaft. 12. Gasket 40. Flat washer
Since the power head is removed with all accessories 13. Valve seat 41. Locknut
14. Blow-off valve 42. Shift link
installed, it will be necessary to first remove all accessories
15. Spring 43. Flat washers
and systems from the power head. 16. Blow-off valve 44. Cotter pins
All internal components that are to be reused must be housing 45. Screw
marked with their original location and orientation for 17. Screw and washer 46. Shift bellcrank
18. Starboard cylinder 47. Plastic washers
reassembly purposes. Do not remove the large ball bearing head 48. Bushings
from the crankshaft unless it is to be replaced. 19. Screw 49. Shift shaft
Once the power head is disassembled, refer to Power 20. Engine temperature 50. Pin
Head Cleaning and Inspection and clean and inspect all switch 51. Slider bracket
21. Water restrlctor (V6 and V8)
components before assembling the power head. (starboard side) 52. Spring (V6 and V8)
1. Remove the carburetors and throttle bodies, V R O ~ 22. Plastic sleeve 53. Switch mounting
pump unit(s), fuel primer solenoid, intake manifold and 23. Gasket bracket (V6 and V8)
reed blocks and all fuel, primer and external recirculation 24. Thermostat 54. Shift assist switch
25. Relief spring (V6 and V8)
lines. See Chapter Six and Chapter Eleven. 26. Seal 55. Tie-strap
a. V6and V8models-Remove the fuel vacuum switch
and its vacuum line along with all of the other fuel
components.
b. V8 models-Remove the fuel enrichment valve and
its vacuum line along with all of the other fuel
components.
2. Remove the flywheel and the electric starter motor as
described in Chapter Seven.
3. Remove the ignition and electrical system as described
in Chapter Seven. This includes the stator assembly, sensor
coil, power pack, ignition coils, voltage regulator and the
wiring harness. Remove the trim/tilt relay junction box (or
relay bracket) and harness on models with trim and tilt. Do
POWER HEAD 319
320 CHAPTER EIGHT
TYPICAL CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

(90' V4, V6 AND V8 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
1. Upper seal
2. Upper crankcase head
and bearing assembly
3. O-rings
4. Seal ring
5. Flywheel key
6. Crankshaft
9. Bearing retainer ring
10. Connecting rod
cap screw
13. Thrust washers
14. Wrist pin lock cllps
15. Piston rings
16. Piston
17. Wrist pin
19. O-rings
20. Retainer plate
21. Ball bearing
22. Retainer ring
23. O-ring
014 and V6 models)
25. Lower seal
26. Lower crankcase head
27. Crankcase head screw
28. Seal
29. Bearing screw
30. Screw
POWER HEAD 321
not disconnect components from each other unless abso- 6. Remove the port and starboard shift shaft bushings (48,
lutely necessary; simply remove the mounting screws, Figure 61) from the bosses on the crankcase cover.
cable clamps and tie-straps. 7. Remove the thermostats and water blow-off valve V6
4A. V4 models-Remove the locknut and washer (35, models) as described in this chapter.
Figure 61, typical) securing the throttle control arm (31, 8. Remove the plastic nut securing the temperature switch
typical) to the starboard side of the crankcase cover. Then (20, Figure 61) to each cylinder head. See Figure 55,
remove the throttle control arm. Locate and secure the two typical. Carefully pull each switch from its cylinder head.
bushings (33, Figure 61) from the stud (or control arm). 9. Mark each cylinder head as to its location (port or
4B. V6 and V8 models-Remove the locknuts and washers starboard). Remove the 14 (V4), 20 (V6) or 26 (V8) screws
(35, Figure 61) securing the upper and lower throttle securing each cylinder head to the cylinder block. Care-
control arms (31 and 32) to the starboard side of the fully pull each head from the block, then remove and
crankcase cover. Then remove both throttle control arms discard the gaskets. If necessary, tap the heads with a
as an assembly. Locate and secure the four bushings (33, soft-faced mallet to break the gasket seal. Do not damage
Figure 61) from the studs (or control arms). the sealing surfaces during the removal process.
10. V8 models-Remove the torsional damper from the
NOTE bottom of the crankshaft as follows:
The shift assist switch and associated com- a. Remove the nut securing the torsional damper to the
ponents (51-55, Figure 61) are not used on bottom of the crankshaft using a 1-314in. socket and
V4 models. an air impact wrench.
b. Using components of puller kit part No. 378103 (or
5. Remove the screw (45, Figure 61) securing the bell-
an equivalent puller), pull the damper from the
crank to the port end of the shift shaft. Slide the bellcrank
crankshaft. Use the handle (part No. 307638) to
and washer from the shift shaft. Then pull the shift shaft
stabilize the assembly as you tighten the puller screw
from the starboard side of the crankcase cover. Locate and
(part No. 307637) to remove the damper from the
secure the washer(s) located between the lever end of the
crankshaft.
shaft and the crankcase cover.
11. Using the tool shown in Figure 38 (or equivalent),
drive the taper pin (3, Figure 61) toward the crankcase
cover side (front) of the power head. Position the tool's
extended toe over the taper pin and hold the main body of
the tool parallel to the pin. Remove the pin from its bore.
12. Remove the six (V4) or eight (V6 and V8) screws
securingthe upper crankcase head to the top of the cylinder
block.
13. Remove the eight screws (1, Figure 63) securing the
lower crankcase head to the block. Do not remove the
bearing retainer plate screws (2, Figure 63) at this time.
NOTE
Some main bearing screws are located in the
intake passages of the crankcase covel:
14. Remove the crankcase cover-to-cylinder block

screws. Remove the eight (V4), 12 (V6) or 16 (V8) flange
screws (4, Figure 61) first, then loosen the six (V4), eight
(V6) or ten (V8) main bearing screws (5) in several stages
until there is no tension on the screws. Remove the main
bearing screws, noting the length of each screw and its
original location.
2
CAUTION
1. Lower crankcase head screws The crankcase cover and cylinder block are
2. Bearing retainer plate screws a matched, align-bored unit. Do not scratch,
faces.
CHAPTER EIGHT
15. Position the power head with the crankcase cover 19. Remove the four screws (2, Figure 63) securing the
facing upward. Using a soft-faced mallet, carefully tap the lower crankcase head to the crankshaft. Pull the crankcase
flywheel end of the crankshaftin an upward directionuntil head from the lower bearing. If it sticks, tap it side-to-side
the crankcase cover separates from the cylinder block. with a soft-faced mallet. Then remove and discard the
Then lift the cover off of the cylinder block. Use caution crankcase head O-rings (19). Finally, drive the seal (25)
not to nick, scratch or damage the crankcase cover and from the crankcase head using a suitable punch. Do not
I
cylinder block mating surfaces. damage or distort the seal bore during removal. Discard
the seal.
NOTE
At this point, only the connecting rods are 20. Remove the retaining ring from the center main bear-
securing the crankshaft into the crankcase. ing or the upper center main bearing on V6 and V8 models)
Make sure the crankcase is not positioned as shown in Figure 64. Then remove the bearing race and
where the crankshaft can fall out as the caged roller bearing halves. Store the bearing components
pistons are removed. in a labeled container. On V6 and V8 models, repeat this

necting rods with a felt-tipped permanent marker. Mark
the connecting rods and rod caps in such a manner that the
rod caps can be reinstalled in their original orientation.
Note any special alignment marks (such as cast dots).
17. Refer to Figure 62 and remove each connecting rod
and piston assembly as follows:
a. Remove the connecting rod screws (10, Figure 62)
from the upper connecting rod using connecting rod
screw socket (part No. 331638) or an equivalent
heavy-duty 5/16 in., 12-point thin-wall socket. Al-
ternately loosen each screw a small amount until all
tension is off of both screws.
b. Tap the rod cap with a soft metal (brass) mallet to
remove the two caged roller bearing halves (7, Fig-
ure 62) from the crankshaft.
hand, then push the piston and connecting rod as- 1 1. Main bearing race
2. Retaining ring
sembly from the cylinder bore with the other. Make 3. Awl
sure the connecting rod does not damage the cylin-
der wall,nor contact the piston skirt during and after
removal.
ger-tight.
f. Store the piston and connecting rod, and the caged
roller bearing halves in a clean numbered container,
corresponding to the cylinder number.
the upper crankcasehead from the crankshaft. Remove and
discard the crankcase head O-rings (3, Figure 62). Then
drive the seal (1, Figure 62) from the crankcasehead using
a suitable punch. Do not damage or distort the seal bore
during removal. Discard the seal.
POWER HEAD 323
step as necessary for the remaining main bearings. Store NOTE

- components in a separate, marked con-
each bearings' Do not press directly against the end of the
tainer. crankshaft in the next step as it and the sleeve
(ifinstalled) will be damaged.
21. Remove the six (V4), nine 016) or twelve (V8) seal
rings 65' typical) the crankshaft.Cmfully 23. If the ball bearing must be remove the re-
expand the seal rings just far enough to slip them from their
tainer ring (22, Figure 62) using a suitable pair of retaining
grooves and over the adjacent bearing surface. Label each
ring pliers. Suppon the bearing in a pRssing
ring so it can be reinstalled in its original location and
plate. Press the bearing free from the crankshaft with a
orientation.
suitable mandrel (such as a scrap piece of drive shaft) that
22. V4 and V6 models-Remove and discard the O-ring will fit into, and press against the bottom of the crankshaft
(23, Figure 62) from inside the sleeve (24) installed on the splined bore. See Figure 66, typical. Then discard the
bottom of the crankshaft. If the sleeve requires replace- bearing.
ment, pull it from the crankshaft with a suitable two-jaw 24. Remove the piston rings from each piston using a
puller, such as puller jaws (part No. 432129) and slide piston ring expander. See Figure 58. Retain the
hammer (part No. 432128). rings for cleaning the piston ring grooves.
25. Using lock clip remover (part No. 325937) or a modi- I
fied pair of needlenose pliers (Figure 39), remove and

discard the two wrist pin locking clips from each piston.
See Figure 67, typical. I
NOTE
The wrist pin is a slip fit in both sides of the
direction.
26. Place wrist pin remover (part No. 396747 [or equiva-
11
Support the piston in the appropriate saddle of piston
cradle (part No. 326572 [or equivalent]) and push the pin
from the piston. See Figure 68.
27. Remove the piston from the connecting rod. Remove
the two thrust washers and the 33 loose needle bearings
1. Pin removal tool

2. Piston
CHAPTER EIGHT
(Figure 69). Store the components in a clean, numbered 3. Completely remove the Gel Seal sealant from the cyl-
container corresponding to the cylinder number. inder block-to-crankcase cover mating surface and all
28. Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remain- gasket residue from the cylinder head and all other sealing
ing pistons and connecting rods. surfaces. OMC Gel Seal and Gasket Remover is the only
29. Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection (this solvent recommended for this purpose. Gel Seal and Gas-
chapter) before beginning reassembly procedures. ket Remover is available either in an aerosol spray can or
in a liquid.
POWER HEAD CLEANING WARNING

AND INSPECTION Wear hand and eye protection when working
with OMC Gel Seal and Gasket Removel:
Refer to Chapter Six and clean and inspect the reed
valves and the fuel recirculation system components. Test
all check valves in the recirculation system for correct
function as described in Chapter Six.
Review the following sections: Sealing Su$zces, Fas-
teners and Torque and Sealants, Lubricants and Adhesives
all located at the beginning of this chapter.
The manufacturer recommends replacing all seals, 0-
rings, gaskets, wrist pin retainer clips and piston rings
anytime a power head is disassembled.
It is highly recommended that all connecting rod screws
be replaced (if they have been removed).
Perform the cleaning and inspection procedure in each
of the following sections that applies to your engine before
beginning assembly procedures.
Cylinder Block and Crankcase Cover

(All Models)
The cylinder block and crankcase cover are matched, 2. Bearing retainer plate screws
align-bored assemblies. For this reason, do not attempt to
assemble an engine with parts salvaged from another
block. If the following inspection procedure indicates that
the block or cover requires replacement, replace the cylin-
der block and crankcase cover as an assembly.
NOTE
All jkel recirculation components and the
pulse limiterfitting on oil injection equipped
models must be removed should it is neces-
sary to submerge the cylinder block and
cover into a strong cleaning solution.
1. Clean the cylinder block and crankcase cover thor-

oughly with clean solvent and a parts washing brush. This
is a preliminary cleaning to remove grease, grime and oil.
2. Remove all carbon and varnish deposits from the ex-
haust ports and exhaust cavities with a carbon removing
solvent, such as OMC Engine Tuner. Allow ample time for
the solvent to soften the deposits. Use a hardwood dowel
or plastic scraper to remove stubborn deposits. Do not
scratch, nick or gouge the intake or exhaust ports.
POWER HEAD
Remove your wrist watch and all jewelry. CAUTION

The solvent is extremelypotent. Do not allow muriatic acid (toilet bowl
cleaner) to come into contact with the alu-
a. Carefully spray or brush the OMC Gel Seal and minum surfaces of the cylinder block.
Gasket Remover over the surface to be cleaned, then
allow the solvent to stand for 5-10 minutes. Do not b. Apply a small quantity of diluted muriatic acid to the
allow the solvent to contact any painted surfaces. aluminum deposits. A bubbling action indicates the
aluminum is being dissolved.
CAUTION c. Wait 1-2 minutes, then thoroughly wash the cylinder
The crankcase cover andcylinder block mat- with hot water and detergent.
ing surfaces must not be scratched, nicked d. Repeat this procedure until the aluminum deposits
or damaged. Use a plastic scraper to clean
the mating surfaces. are completely removed.
e. Lightly oil the cylinder walls with outboard lubri-
b. Scrape the old sealant and gasket material from the cant to prevent rust. I
mating surfaces with a plastic scraper (such as a 6. Check the cylinder block and crankcase cover for
household electrical outlet cover) or a piece of Lu- cracks, fractures, stripped threads or other damage. Then
cite with one edge ground to a 45' angle. carefully inspect the cylinder block-to-crankcase cover
4. After removing all traces of old Gel Seal andlor gasket mating surface for nicks, grooves, cracks or distortion. 1
material, wash the cylinder block and crankcase cover
thoroughly with a mild solvent, such as mineral spirits. CAUTION
Then wash the cylinder block and crankcase cover thor- The cylinder block-to-crankcase cover mat-
ing surfaces must not be lapped or resur- 1
oughly with hot, soapy water. Rinse the cylinder block and
crankcase cover with clean hot water, then blow dry with faced. I
I
compressed air. Finally, lubricate the cylinder walls with

7. Inspect all gasket mating surfaces for nicks, grooves,
outboard lubricant to prevent corrosion. cracks or distortion. Any of these defects will cause leak-
WARNING age. Check the surfaces for distortion (warpage) as de-
Use suitable hand and eye protection when scribed in Sealing Surfaces at the beginning of this chapter.
using muriatic acid products. Avoid breath- Figure 70 and Figure 71 show typical directions in which
ing the vapol: Use only in a well-ventilated to check for warpage on the cylinder head and exhaust
area. cover mating surfaces. I
Generally, a sealing surface with a distortion of more than

5. If the cylinder bore(s) has aluminum transfer from the 0.004 in. (0.1 mm) requires lapping, resurfacing or re-
piston(s): placement. Remove small imperfections by lapping the
a. Clean loose deposits from the bore with a stiff bristle component as described under Sealing Surfaces. Do not
brush. remove more than 0.010 in. (0.25 mm) of material when
lapping or resurfacing. ,
8. Check all water, oil and fuel bleed passages in the block
and cover for obstructions. Make sure all pipe plugs are
installed tightly. Pipe plugs must be sealed with OMC Pipe
Sealant with Teflon.
NOTE
If metal particles, such as those found in a
bearing failure, are present in the cylinder
block or crankcase covel: replace the recir-
culation system check valve(s) and make
certain all recirculation hoses and Pttings
are clean andfree of debris.
9. Water defectors-The 90" V4 cross-flow and 90" V6

loop-charged models are equipped with water passage
deflectors in the cylinder block water passages. The d4-
flector(s) ensure that the water flows correctly through the
block, ensuring correct cooling. The deflector(s) must bk
CHAPTER EIGHT
pulled from the block and discarded if damaged, distorted manufacturer's parts catalog for oversize
or deteriorated. Replacement deflectors are listed in the piston availability and bore sizes, before
manufacturer's parts catalog. boring the cylinder(s).
The 90" V4 cross-flow models use four deflectors posi-
tioned as shown in Figure 72. All four deflectors are the Cylinder Bore Honing
same length and part number. To function correctly, the
deflector(s) must extend slightly past the cylinder head A rigid type cylinder hone is recommended for deglazing
gasket surface of the block. If not, water will bypass the the bore to aid the seating of new piston rings. If the cylinder
deflector, resulting in incorrect cooling water flow. bore has been bored oversize, complete the honing process
The 90" V6 loop-charged models use three deflectors in two steps: a rough (debuning) hone to remove the machin-
placed as shown in Figure 73. The lower deflectors (3, ing marks, then a f i s h hone to establish the finish bore
Figure 73) must measure 2-3/16 in. (55.56 mm) long and diameter and cross-hatchpattern in the cylinder wall.
the upper port deflector (4) must measure 2-11/16 in. Flex (ball type) hones and spring loaded hones are not
(68.26 rnrn) long. recommended as they will not produce a true straight and
10. Exhaust jiller blocks--On 112 and 115 hp, if the perfectly round bore.
exhaust filler blocks (Figure 42) are removed, install new
filler blocks as follows: NOTE
a. Position the new filler blocks into the exhaust cavity. Ifyou are notpdcient with the correct use
b. Coat the threads of the brass screws with OMC Ultra of a rigid cylinder hone, it is recommended
that cylinder bore honing be pe$ormed by a
Lock threadlocking adhesive. Use new lock tab
qualijied machine shop or a qualijied dealer
washers on the center and lower screws. No washers
are required on the upper screws. If the cylinders are in a visually acceptable condition,
c. Install and evenly tighten the screws to 30-54 in.-lb. prepare the cylinder bore for new piston rings and remove
(3.4-6.1 N-m). Then bend the lock tab washers up any glazing, light scoring andor scuffing by lightly honing
against the screw heads of the center and lower the cylinders as follows:
screws.
d. Have the filler blocks machined flush with the ex-
haust cover mating surface.
e. Wash the cylinder block as described previously in
this chapter. Make sure all debris and contamination WATER DEFLECTOR POSITION
from the machining operation is removed. (90° V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS)
Cylinder Bore Inspection 1 2
Inspect the cylinder bores for scoring, scuffing, groov-

ing, cracks or bulging and any other mechanical damage.
Inspect the cylinder block casting and cast-iron liner for
separation or delamination. There must be no gaps or voids
between the aluminum casting and the liner. Remove any
aluminum deposits as described previously in this chapter.
If the cylinders are in a visually acceptable condition, hone
the cylinders as described under Cylinder wall honing. I f
the cylinders are in an unacceptable condition, rebore the
defective cylinder bore(s) or replace the cylinder block and
crankcase cover as an assembly.
NOTE
It is not necessary to rebore all bores in a
cylinder block. Rebore only the bores that 1. Port cylinder bank
are defective. It is acceptable to have a mix 2. Starboard cylinder bank
of standard and oversize bores on a given 3. Water deflector positions
power head as long as the correct piston is
used to match each bore. Always check the
POWER HEAD
1. Follow the rigid hone manufacturer's instructions when achieve a cross-hatch pattern with an intersecting angle of
using the hone. Make sure the correct stones for a cast-iron approximately 30". Do not exceed a cross-hatch angle of
bore are installed on the hone. 45".
2. A continuous flow of the recommended honing oil must 6. After honing, inspect each intake and exhaust port for
be pumped into the bore during the honing operation. If an sharp edges or burrs. Remove any burrs and chamfer all
oil pumping system is not available, enlist the aid of an sharp edges with a suitable whetstone or emery cloth.
assistant and an oil can to keep the cylinder walls flushed 7. Thoroughly clean the cylinder block using hot water,
with honing oil. detergent and a stiff bristle brush. Make certain all abrasive
3. If the hone loads (slows down) at one location in the material from the honing process is removed. After wash-
bore, this indicates the narrowest portion of the bore. ing and flushing, coat the cylinder walls with outboard
Localize the stroking in this location to remove stock until motor oil to prevent rusting.
the hone maintains the same speed and load throughout the 8. Proceed to Cylinder bore measurements to determine
entire bore. if the cylinder bores are within the manufacturer's speci-
4. Frequently remove the hone from the cylinder bore and fications for wear, taper and out-of-round.
inspect the bore. Do not remove any more material than
necessary.
5. Attempt to achieve a stroke rate of approximately 30
cycles per minute, adjusting the speed of the hone to
Cylinder Bore Measurements
I
I
Measure each cylinder bore as follows. Oversize bore
specifications are simply the standard bore specification
plus the oversize dimension (check parts catalog for avail-
able oversize dimensions). All standard bore specifica-
WATER DEFLECTOR POSITION
tions, maximum taper and out-of-round specifications are
(90' V6 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
listed in Table 5. The maximum wear limit on a given I
cylinder is equal to the standard bore plus the maximum
taper specification.
1 2 I
Use a cylinder bore gauge (Figure74) inside microme-

4 ter or a telescoping gauge and a regular micrometer to
measure the entire area of ring travel in the cylinder bore.
Cylinder bore gauge

or inside micrometer
3
1. Port cylinder bank
2. Starboard cylinder bank
3. Lower (2-3/16 In. 155.56 mm])
deflector positions
4. Port upper (2-1 1/16 in.
[68.26 mm]) deflector position
CHAPTER EIGHT
Perform three sets of readings: at the top, middle and 1. Clean the piston(s), wrist pin@),thrust (locating) wash-
bottom of the ring travel area (Figure 75). ers and the wrist pin needle bearings thoroughly with clean
1. Take the first reading at the top of the ring travel area solvent and a parts washing brush. Do not wire brush the
approximately 112 in. (12.7 rnm) from the top of the piston as metal from the wire wheel may become imbed-
cylinder bore with the gauge aligned with the crankshaft ded in the piston. This can lead to preignition and detona-
centerline. Record your reading. Then turn the gauge 90" tion.
to the crankshaft centerline and take and record another 2. Remove all carbon and varnish deposits from the top of
reading. the piston, piston ring groove(s) and under the piston
2. The difference between the two is the cylinder out-of-
round. The reading must not exceed 0.004 in. (0.102 mm).
3. Take a second set of readings at the midpoint of the ring
travel area just above the ports using the same alignment
points described in Step 1. Record the readings. Calculate
the cylinder out-of-round by determining the difference
between the two readings. The reading must not exceed
0.004 in. (0.102 mm).
4. Take a third set of readings at the bottom of the ring
travel area near the bottom of the cylinder bore using the
same alignment points described in Step 1. Record the
readings. Calculate the cylinder out-of-roundby determin-
ing the difference between the two readings. The reading
must not exceed 0.004 in. (0.102 mm).
5. To determine the cylinder taper, subtract the readings
taken at the top of the cylinder bore (Step 1) from the
readings taken at the bottom of the cylinder bore. The
difference in these readings is the cylinder taper. The
reading must not exceed 0.002 in. (0.051 mm).
NOTE
If the cylinder has already been bored over-
size, add the oversize dimension to the stand-
ard bore dimension and the maximum
cylinder wear speciJicationin the next step.
6. To determine if the cylinder is excessively worn, add

the maximum cylinder wear specification to the standard
cylinder bore. If any of the readings taken in Steps 1-4
exceed this figure, the cylinder is excessively worn.
7. Repeat Steps 1-6 for each remaining cylinder.
8. If any cylinder has excessive out-of-round, taper or
wear, bore the cylinder(s) oversize or replace the cylinder
block and crankcase cover.
If the wrist pin and piston are to be reused, the pins must
be reinstalled in the piston from which they were removed.
CAUTION
Do not use an automotive ring groove clean-
ing tool as it will damage the ring grooves
and loosen the ring locating pins.
POWER HEAD 329
crown with a carbon removing solvent, such as OMC a. Fashion a ring cleaning tool from the original piston
Engine Tuner. Use a piece of hardwood or plastic scraper ring(s). Rings may be differently shaped for each
can be used to remove stubborn deposits. Do not scratch, ring groove. Make sure you are using the original
nick or gouge any part of the piston. Do not remove any ring from each ring groove.
stamped or cast identification marks. b. Break off approximately 113 of the original ring.
Grind a beveled edge onto the broken end of the ring.
3. Clean stubborn deposits from the ring groove(s) as
follows: NOTE
On keystone and semi-keystone rings, it is
necessary to grind off enough of the ring
taper to allow the inside edge of the broken
ring to reach the inside diameter of the ring
groove.
c. Use the ground end of the ring to gently scrape the

ring groove clean (Figure 76). Be careful to only
remove the carbon. Do not gouge the metal and do
not damage or loosen the piston ring locating pin(s).
4. Polish any nicks, burrs or sharp edges from the piston
skirt with emery cloth. Do not remove any cast or stamped
identification markings. Wash the piston thoroughly to
remove all abrasive &it.
5. Inspect the piston(s) overall condition for scoring,
cracks, worn or cracked wrist pin bosses and any other
damage. Carefully inspect the crown and the top outer
diameter for burning, erosion, evidence of ring migration
and mechanical damage (Figure 77). Replace the piston
as necessary.
6. Check piston ring grooves for wear, erosion, distortion
and loose ring locating pins.
7. Inspect the wrist pin for water etching, pitting, scoring,
heat discoloration, excessive wear, distortion and me-
chanical damage. Roll the pin across a machinist's surface
plate to check the pin for distortion.
8. Inspect the thrust washers and needle bearings for water
damage, pitting, scoring, overheating, wear and mechani-
cal damage.
Piston Measurements 1
Measure each piston skirt with a micrometer as de-
scribed in the following text and compare the readings to
the specifications in Table 5.
To calculate the skirt dimension of oversize pistons,
simply add the oversize dimension to the standard skirt
diameter listed in Table 5.
No specifications are given for cylinder-to-pistonclear-
ance. The correct clearance is obtained by verifying that
114 in. (6.35 mm)
the piston skirt and cylinder bore dimensions are correct.
1. 90" V4 cross-flow models-Using a micrometer, meas-
ure each piston's skirt diameter as follows:
a. Take a reading at a point 114 in. (6.35 mm) up from
b the bottom of the skirt (Figure 78) at a 90° angle to
CHAPTER EIGHT
the wrist pin bore as shown in Figure 78. Record If the rod cap is not perfectly aligned to the rod's body,
your reading. the bearing surface will not be aligned, resulting in ex-
b. Take a second reading (at the same distance from the tremely noisy operation and premature bearing failure.
bottom of the slurt) aligned with the wrist pin bore as This will destroy the connecting rod and the crankshaft.
shown in Figure 79. Record the reading. The use of new connecting rod screws on final assembly
c. The first reading must be within 3.4930-3.4950 in. is highly recommended. However, the original screws
(88.722-88.773 mm), and both readings must be must be used for cleaning and inspection. All connecting
within 0.004 in. (1.02 mm) of each other. If not, re- rod screw torque specifications are listed in Table 2.
place the piston(s). All connecting rods require a special fixture (part No.
2. 60" V4 and V6 models-There are no piston skirt diam- 396749) to correctly align the cap. The special fixture
eter specifications. Each piston can only be checked for contacts the rod cap and rod body on four machined
out-of-round (with a micrometer) as follows:
a. Take a reading at a point 114in. (6.35 mm) up from
the bottom of the skirt at a 90" angle to the wrist pin
bore as shown in A, Figure 80. Record your read-
ing.
b. Take a second reading (at the same distance from the
bottom of the skirt) aligned with the wrist pin bore as
shown in B, Figure 80. Record the reading.
c. If the difference between the two measurements ex-
ceeds 0.003 in. (0.076 mm), the piston is
out-of-round and must be replaced.
3. 90" V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged models-Using a mi-
crometer, measure each piston's skirt diameter as fol-
lows:
a. Take a reading at a point 114 in. (6.35 rnrn) up from
the bottom of the skirt at a 90" angle to the wrist pin
bore as shown in A, Figure 80. Record your reading.
b. Each piston's reading must be within the specifica-
tion in Table 5. If not, replace the piston(s).
c. Take a second reading (at the same distance from the
bottom of the skirt) as close to being aligned with the
wrist pin bore as possible as shown in B, Figure 80.
Record the reading.
d. The differencebetween the first and secondreadings
must be within 0.004 in. (0.102 mm) of each other. If THREE-CYLINDER MODELS
not, replace the piston(s).
Connecting Rods
All connecting rods are of the fractured cap design. This

means that the cap is broken from the rod during the manu-
facturing process, leaving a jagged (fractured) mating sur-
face that will mate perfectly if installed in its original
orientation. If the cap is installed in a reverse position and
the rod screws are tightened, the rod will be distorted and
must be discarded. While alignment marks are provided, Dimension A at (6.35 mm)
right angle (90")
always mark the rod and cap with a felt-tipped permanent
marker for easy identification. Correct orientation is obvi-
to piston pin Dimension B A
(aligned with piston pit 1
ous if the time is taken to examine the mating surfaces of
the rod and cap. The connecting rod cap must be held
firmly in position as the screws are installed.
POWER HEAD 331
comers, applying a predetermined clamping force. The nail over it, the rod must be discarded. Remove stains or
fixture is left in place during the tightening process, ensur- marks that cannot be felt by polishing the bearing surface.
ing perfect rod cap alignment. Use of the fixture is de- 3. Assemble the rod cap to the connecting rod as described
scribed under Connecting rod assembly in this chapter. under Connecting rod assembly in the following section.
To clean and inspect the connecting rods, proceed as 4. Check the connecting rods for straightness. Place each
follows: rodlcap assembly on a machinist's surface plate and press
1. Clean the connecting rods thoroughly with clean sol- downward on the rod beam. The rod must not wobble
vent and a parts washing brush. under pressure. While holding the rod against the plate,
attempt to insert a 0.002 in. (0.051 mm) feeler gauge
2. Check the connecting rod big and small end bearing between the machined surfaces of the rod and the plate
surfaces for rust, water damage, pitting, spalling, chatter (Figure 81). If the feeler gauge can be inserted between
marks, heat discoloration and excessive or uneven wear. If any machined surface of the rod and the surface plate, the
the defect can be felt by dragging a pencil lead or a finger rod is bent and must be discarded.
5. Clean stains or slight defects in the connecting rod
bearing bores using fine-grit abrasive cloth. First, fabricate
a holder for the abrasive cloth as follows:
a. Using a hacksaw, cut a notch 1 in. (25 mm) long into
the end of a rod or bolt. The rod or bolt should be
approximately 4 in. (102 mm) long and 5/16 in. (8
mm) in diameter.
b. Insert a length of fine-grit abrasive cloth into the
notch cut in the holder. Mount the holder in an
electric drill.
c. Spin the cloth using the drill as shown in Figure 82
to clean the bearing bores. Maintain a 90" angle as
shown. Continue until the bearing bore is polished,
but do not remove any more material from the rod
than necessary.
d. Wash the connecting rod thoroughly in clean solvent
to remove any abrasive grit, then inspect the bearing
surfaces. Replace any connectir~grod assembly that
does not clean properly.
e. Remove and discard the rod cap screws. Wash the
rod and cap again in clean solvent. Retag the rod and
cap for identification. Lightly oil the bearing sur-
faces with outboard lubricant to prevent rust.
f. Repeat this process for each remaining connecting
rod.
CLEANING CONNECTING ROD Connecting Rod Assembly

BEARING SURFACES
The rod cap alignment fixture (part No. 396749) is
required for this procedure. Always refer to the instruc-
tions included with the tool for additional or updated
information.
Rod cap screw socket (part No. 331638)or an equivalent
heavy-duty 12-point,thin-wall, 5/16 in. socket is required
to tighten the rod cap screws on all models.
CAUTION
Failure to correctly use the alignment$xture
will result in premature connecting rod big
end bearing failure, which will also result in
CHAPTER EIGHT
the connecting rod and crankshaft being de- 6. Lubricate the four precision ground comers of the
stroyed. connecting rod's big end, then position the fixture over the
1. If assembling the rod for cleaning and inspection pur-
big end in the manner shown in Figure 83, typical.
poses, clamp the No. l cylinder connecting rod securely
7. Allow the stop plunger in the center of the frame to
contact the rod cap. Then align the grooves machined into
in a soft-jawed vise.
the jaws with the rod cap-to-connecting rod parting line.
2. Install the matching connecting rod cap to the connect- 8. Tighten the tool's forcing screw to 23 in.-lb. (2.6 N-m).
ing rod in its original orientation. Carefully observe frac-
Venfy that the stop plunger is contacting the rod cap and
ture and alignment marks to ensure correct installation.
that the grooves in the jaws are aligned with the rod's
3. Lubricate the screw threads and underside of the screw parting line.
head with outboard lubricant. Then, while holding the cap 9. Loosen both rod cap screws 114 turn. Then retighten
firmly in position, install the connecting rod screws and both screws to a preliminary torque of 40-60 in.-lb. (4.5-
thread them fully into the rod. 6.8 N.m).
4. Tighten both screws to 25-30 in.-lb. (2.82-3.39 N-m). 10A. 90" V4 (cross-flow) and 60" V4 and V6 (loop-
5A. 90" V4 cross-flowand 60" V4 and V6models-Assem- charged) models-Tighten both rod cap screws to a final
ble the rod Cap alignment fixture as follows: torque of 30-32 ft.-lb. (40.7-43.4 N.m) in a minimum of 3
a. Move the flat on the knob marked Set to align with progressive steps.
the arrow embossed on the tool's frame. Move the 10B. 90" V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged models-Tighten
adjustment knob in or out until the second ring from both rod caps screws to a final torque of 42-44 ft.-lb.
the outermostend of the knob aligns with the surface (56.9-59.7 N.m) in a minimum of three progressive steps.
of the tool frame. The instruction sheet refers to this 11. Loosen the forcing screw and remove the fixture. Run
as mark B. Then rotate the knob 180" to lock the a fingernail or pencil lead over each of the four machined
adjustment. edges of the rod-to-capjoint (Figure 84, typical). No ridge
b. Install the retaining jaw labeled C and the forcing must be seen or felt. If a ridge is present at any machined
jaw labeled D to the fixture frame as described by edge, replace the connecting rod.
the tool's instruction sheet.
5B. 90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) models-Assemble
the Rod Cap Alignment Fixture as follows:
a. Move the flat on the knob marked Set to align with
the arrow embossed on the tool's frame. Move the
69
adjustment knob in or out until the third ring (from
the outermost end of the knob) aligns with the sur-
face of the tool's frame. The instruction sheet will Ground areas
refer to this as mark C. Then rotate the knob 180" to
lock the adjustment.
b. Install the retaining jaw labeled A and the forcing
jaw labeled B to the fixture frame as described by
I POWER HEAD
12. Repeat this procedure for each remaining connecting 2. Measure the crankshaft journals and crankpins with a
rod. micrometer and compare to the specifications given in
Table 5.
3. Inspect the drive shaft splines, flywheel taper, flywheel
Crankshaft key groove and flywheel nut threads for corrosion, cracks,
excessive wear and mechanical damage.
Crankshaft specifications are listed in Table 5. Measure 4. Inspect the upper and lower seal surfaces for excessive
all bearing and journal surfaces where specifications are grooving, pitting, nicks or burrs. The seal surfaces may be
given. Replace any crankshaft that is excessively worn. Do polished with a fine-grit abrasive cloth as necessary. If the
not measure the lower main bearing journal unless the ball crankshaft is equipped with a sleeve (drive shaft O-ring
bearing has been removed. carrier) on the drive shaft end, it can be replaced if dam-
aged.
1. Thoroughly wash the crankshaft and the main and
connecting rod bearing assemblies with clean solvent and 5. Inspect each of the crankshaft seal rings for broken
a parts washing brush. segments and excessive wear. Each ring must be at least
0.154 (3.912 mm) thick. Replace any seal ring that is
damaged or excessively worn.
6. Check the crankshaft bearing surfaces for rust, water
@ damage, pitting, spalling, chatter marks, heat discoloration
and excessive or uneven wear. If the defect can be felt by
dragging a pencil lead or a fingernail over it, the crankshaft
must be discarded. Stains or marks that cannot be felt cah
be removed by polishing the bearing surface with a strip
of fine grit abrasive cloth. Work the cloth back and fortfi
evenly over the entire journal until the surface is polished.
Do not remove any more material than necessary.
7. Thoroughly clean the crankshaft again in clean solvent
and recheck the crankshaft surfaces. Replace the c r d -
shaft if it cannot be properly cleaned. If the crankshaft is
in a visually acceptable condition, lightly oil the crank-
I
shaft to prevent rust.
8. Inspect the bearings as follows: 1
a. Ball bearing(s)-Rotate the bearing(s). The bearing
must rotate smoothly with no rough spots, catches
or noise. There must be no discernible radial or axial
play (Figure 85) between the inner and outer races
of the bearing. If the bearing shows any visible wear,
corrosion or deterioration, it must be replaced.
Radial b. Roller/needle bearings-Inspect the rollers and/or
needles for water etchings, pitting, chatter marks,
heat discoloration and excessive or uneven wear.
Inspect the cages for wear and mechanical damage.
Replace bearings as an assembly; do not attempt to
replace individual rollers or needles.
CAUTION
The bearing cage on some needle bearings
is designed to retain the bearing rollers (nee-
dles). The rollers are loose on other bear-
ings. Therefore, either all or none of the
needle rollers must be retained in the cage.
If some of the rollersfall from the cage, yet
some are retained, the bearing hasfailed and
must be replaced. Replace any bearing
whose condition is questionable.
CHAPTER EIGHT
Cylinder Head and Cylinder Head Cover Intake Covers
The 90" V4 cross-flow models are equipped with cylin- 1. Clean the intake covers thoroughly with clean solvent
der head covers, in addition to cylinder heads. and aparts washing brush. Carefully remove all gasket and
1. Clean the cylinder heads and cylinder head covers thor- sealant material from mating surfaces.
oughly with clean solvent and a parts washing brush. Care- 2. Inspect the cover and all gasket surfaces for nicks,
fully remove all gasket and sealant material from mating grooves, cracks, corrosion or distortion. Replace the cover
surfaces. if the defect could cause leakage.
2. Cylinder heads-Remove all carbon and varnish de-
posits from the combustion chambers with a carbon re-
moving solvent, such as OMC Engine Tuner. A sharpened Lower and
hardwood dowel or plastic scraper can be used to remove Upper Crankcase Heads
stubborn deposits (Figure 86, typical). Do not scratch,
nick or gouge the combustion chambers.
1. Clean the crankcase heads thoroughly with clean sol-
NOTE vent and a parts washing brush. Carefully remove all
The cylinder head used on carburetor sealant material from mating surfaces.
equipped models can be lapped or resur- 2. Inspect the seal bore(s) for nicks, gouges or corrosion
faced to remove warpage up to 0.010 in. that will cause the seal to leak around its outer diameter.
(0.254 mm). Do not remove more than 0.010 Replace the crankcase head if the seal bore is damaged.
in. (0.254 mm) of material.
3. Inspect the crankcase head mating surface and O-ring
3. Check the cylinder head and cylinder head cover for groove for nicks, grooves, cracks, corrosion or distortion.
cracks, fractures,distortionor other damage. Check the cyl- Replace the crankcase head@) if the defect will cause
inder head for stripped or damaged threads. Refer to Sealing leakage.
su$aces at the beginning of this chapter and check the cylin- 4. If the upper crankcase head also contains the upper
der head for warpage.Maximum warpage specifications are main bearing, inspect the rollers for water etching, pitting,
listed in Table 5. Minor imperfections can be removed by chatter marks, heat discoloration and excessive or uneven
lapping the cylinder head as described in this chapter. wear. Inspect the cages for wear and mechanical damage.
4. Inspect all gasket surfaces or O-ring grooves for nicks, If the bearing is worn or damaged, replace the upper
grooves, cracks, corrosion or distoaion. Replace the cylin- crankcase head as an assembly.
der head or cylinder head cover if the defect is severe
enough to cause leakage.
5. Check all water passages in the head(s) for obstruc-
tions. Make sure all pipe plugs are installed tightly. Seal
the pipe plugs with OMC Pipe Sealant with Teflon.
Exhaust Cover and Inner Plate
1. Clean the exhaust cover (and inner plate) thoroughly

with clean solvent and a parts washing brush. Carefully re-
move all gasket and sealant material from mating surfaces.
2. Remove all carbon and varnish deposits with a carbon
removing solvent, such as OMC Engine Tuner. A hard-
wood dowel or plastic scraper can be used to remove stub-
born deposits. Do not scratch, nick or gouge the mating
surfaces.
3. Inspect the component and all gasket surfaces for nicks,
grooves, cracks, corrosion or distortion. Replace the
cover/manifold/plate if the defect is severe enough to
cause leakage.
POWER HEAD
Thermostats pry the retainer (29) from the power head. Discard the
retainer if it is damaged or distorted.
Refer to the T h e m s t a t and WaterBlow-OffValve in for 3. Strikethe mount (27, Figure 51) with a large punch and
illustrations of the thermostat assemblies specific to your suitable hammer. Knock the mount from side-to-side until
model engine. it can be pulled from its power head recess. Discard the
1. Carefully clean all gasket material and/or sealant from mount(s).
each thermostat and/or blow-off valve housing and its 4. To install the mount, position the mount into its power
mating surface on the cylinder head, cylinder block or head recess with the flat on the fore edge of the mount
adaptor housing. Inspect the thermostat bore and/or blow- facing directly away from the other mount. Make sure both
off valve in the cylinder head, cylinder block or adaptor mounts are seated in their power head recesses.
housing for corrosion and debris. Check the thermostat 5. Lubricate the retainer with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
and/or blow-off valve housing for corrosion and/or distor- Push the retainer into the gap between the mounts. Coat
tion. Clean or replace the cylinder head, cylinder block, the threads of the retainer screw with OMC Gasket Sealing
adaptor housing and/or thermostat andlor blow off valve Compound. Install and tighten the screw to 15-20 ft.-lb.
housing as necessary. (20.3-27.1 N.m).
2. Remove and discard all seals, grommets or other seal- 6. Reinstall the power head as described previously in this
ing devices in the thermostat assembly. chapter.
3. If the thermostat is to be reused, refer to Chapter Three
for cleaning, inspection and testing procedures. Models I
POWER HEAD ASSEMBLY
equipped with a vernatherm cannot be tested when re-
moved from the engine. Before beginning assembly, make sure you have com-
4. Inspect the spring(s) for corrosion, distortion and me- pleted all applicable sections of the Power Head Cleaning
chanical or other damage. Replace the spring(s) as neces- and Inspection, located in this chapter.
sary. Replace all seals, O-rings, gaskets, wrist pin locking
5. Inspect the diaphragm (if so equipped) for cracks, pin clips and piston rings any time a power head is disassem-
holes or deterioration. Replace the diaphragm if there is bled. Also install new connecting rod cap screws during
any doubt about its condition. the assembly procedure.
6. Inspect the plastic housings and valves (if equipped) for If any of the original bearings are to be reused, each must
melting and mechanical damage. Replace any component be reinstalled in its original location and orientation. The
if there is any doubt as to its condition.
same applies for any pistons and connecting rods being
reused.
Upper Motor Mount Replacement Piston rings may be rectangular and/or semi-keystone.
(60" V4 and V6 Models) Rectangular rings fit their grooves in either direction, but
must be installed so that the beveled ends of the ring end
Two upper mount assemblies (one port and one star- gap correctly fit around the locating pin in the piston ring
board) are used on these models. Both mounts are secured groove.
in place by a single screw and retainer. The mounts are Semi-keystone rings are beveled 7-112" on the upper
individually serviced, but each mount is only available as surface only. These rings will not fit their groove correctly
an assembly. Do not attempt to disassemble either mount. if installed upside down. Carefully examine each ring's
construction and position the beveled side up matching the
NOTE ring groove.
Do not remove the upper motor mount(s)
unless they must be replaced. Lubricate needle and roller bearings with OMC Needle
Bearing Assembly Grease. This grease will hold the nee-
If either (or both) upper motor mount(s) requires re- dles, rollers and cages in position during the assembly
placement, refer to Figure 51 and proceed as follows: procedure. Lubricate all other internal components with
1. Remove the power head as described previously in this OMC (Evinrude or Johnson) two-cycle TC-W3 outboard
chapter. It is not necessary to disassemble the power head lubricant, which is simplyreferred to as oil in the following
any more than stated in power head removal. Remove the procedures. Do not use any lubricant inside the power head
screws (28, Figure 51) securing the steering arm to the that is not gasoline soluble.
upper mounts during power head disassembly. Mating surfaces must be absolutely free of gasket mate-
2. Remove the screw (30, Figure 51) securing the upper rial, sealant residue, dirt, oil, grease or any other contami-
mount retainer to the front of the power head. Carefully nant. Use OMC Cleaning Solvent, lacquer thinner,
336 CHAPTER EIGHT
acetone, isopropyl alcohol or similar solvents for the final 1. If the connecting rod's small end has a single hole
preparation of mating surfaces. through the I-beam of the rod into the small end bore, the
OMC Gel Seal 11 is the only recommended sealant for must face 'pward. See Figure 88.
sealing the crankcase cover to the cylinder block.Prior to 2. If the connecting rod has two oil holes drilled in a
applying the Gel Seal 11, the crankcase cover's mating straight line through the small end, the rod can be installed
surface must be treated with OMC Locquic Primer and in either direction. See Figure 88.
allowed to air dry. If the surface is blown dry,the primer's
catalyst will also be blown away. If Locquic Primer is not
used, allow the crankcase assembly to set for at least 24
hours after assembly before starting the engine.
CYLINDER LOCATION
CAUTION (ALL V4 AND V6 MODELS)
OMC Gel Seal ZI has a shelf life of approxi-
mately one yeal: Ifthe age of the Gel Seal ZI
cannot be determined, it must be replaced. Port Starboard
Using old sealant will result in leakage.
A selection of torque wrenches is absolutely essential to

the correct the assembly and maximum longevity of the
power head assembly. Failing to torque items so specified
will result in a premature, power head failure.
Connecting rod torque values are listed in Table 2 and
cylinder head bolt torque values are listed in Table 3. All
other power head torque values are listed in Table 4.
Standard torque values are listed in the Quick Reference
Data section.
All power head specifications are listed in Table 5. All
tables are located at the end of the chapter.
Refer to Figure 87 for cylinder location on V4 and V6 v4
models. The starboard bank is always the odd-numbered
cylinders and the port bank is always the even-numbered
cylinders. Cylinder No. 1 is always the highest cylinder in
the block. On V8 models, cylinders No. 1-6 are numbered
the same as the V6 models shown in Figure 87. Cylinder
No. 7 is located below cylinder No. 5 and cylinder No. 8
is located below cylinder No. 6.
Connecting Rod Orientation
The connecting rod must be correctly orientated when

installed to the crankshaft to ensure adequate lubrication
of the small end bearing. If the original rods are being
reused, they must be installed in their original orientation
as noted during disassembly. If installing one or more new
connecting rods, orientate the rods in one of the following
manners:
CAUTION
A used connecting rod must always be in-
stalled in its original orientation as noted
during disassembly.
POWER HEAD
3. If the small end of the connecting rod is scalloped Piston Ring End Gap (All Models)
(relieved) to expose some of the needle bearings to lubri-
cation, the rod (when new) can be installed in either Before assembling the engine, the piston ring end gap
direction. must be checked (and adjusted if necessary) before install-
4. If the small end does not have any of the previous means ing the piston rings on the pistons.
of identification, then position the part number cast into Insufficient end gap will result in the piston sticking in
the I-beam andlor the rod cap alignment marks facing up. the cylinder bore when the engine is hot. There must be
adequate end gap to allow for heat expansion.
Excessive end gap will result in an excessive amount of
combustion gases leaking past the gap between the ring
Oil hole ends. This will cause a reduction in performance and can
lead to excessive carbon buildup in the ring grooves and
8
on the piston skirt.
Once the end gap is set, the rings must be tagged for
correct installationin the bore in which they were checked
and fitted. All engines use two rings on each piston. Both
rings must be checked and fitted.
011hole Excessive ring end gap can be caused by a worn or
oversize bore. Recheck the cylinder bore as described
1
previously in this chapter. Also confirm that the correct
piston rings are being used for the actual bore size.
Insufficient ring end gap can be corrected by carefully
Oil hole side Either side
filing the ring ends until the correct end gap (Table 5) is
faces up faces up I
achieved. See Figure 89.
To check the piston ring end gap, refer to Figure 90 and
proceed as follows.
@ PISTON RING END GAP
CHAPTER EIGHT
1. Select a piston ring and place it inside of the No. 1

5. If the ring is a rectangular ring, roll the ring around the
piston's groove as shown in Figure 91, typical to check for
cylinder bore. Push the ring squarely into the bore using
binding. The piston ring must fit freely in its groove. If not,
the piston. The ring must be square in the bore.
check for carbon deposits and remove any found. If the
2. Measure the ring end gap with a feeler gauge as shown ring still binds, replace the piston.
in Figure 90. If the ring gap is not within specification,
repeat the measurement with the same ring in the No. 2 6. Repeat this process until all of the piston rings are fitted
cylinder bore. Repeat the process as necessary until a bore to a specific cylinder bore and properly tagged for identi-
is found that the ring fits correctly in or there are no more fication.
cylinder bores to check.
3A. Excessive ring end gap is excessive in
every bore, the ring is defective or the cylinder is oversize.
Measure the cylinder bore and recheck the piston ring
application (part number). If the bore is within specifica-
tion and the correct ring is being used, the ring being
checked is defective and must be replaced with another
new ring.
3B. Znsuflcient end gap-if the ring end gap is insufficient
in every bore, carefully file the ends of the ring as shown
in Figure 89. Keep the file at a 90" angle to the ring. Do
not remove any more material than necessary, and do not
create any burrs on the ring ends.
4. Once a ring is found to correctly fit in a cylinder, tag
the ring with the cylinder number so it can be installed on
the correct piston during power head assembly.
WRIST PIN LOCK CLIP INSTALLATION
2. New lock clip

3. Cone
4. Piston
,
POWER HEAD
Assembly (90" V4 Cross-Flow Models) equivalent, install a new wrist pin lock clip into one end of
the wrist pin bore as follows:
I
Refer to Figure 87for cylinder location. The pistons and a. Insert a new lock clip (2, Figure 92) into the inter-
connecting rods must be assembled for the cylinder that
they are to be installed in. The port pistons and rods must
nally tapered end of the cone (3).
b. Insert the driver (1, Figure 92) into the cone and ~
I
be assembled opposite of the starboard cylinder and rods. push the lock clip until it is approximately 112 in.
(12.7 mrn) from the externally beveled end.
I
c. Position the externally beveled end of the cone over I
Piston and connecting rod assembly the wrist pin bore and rotate the cone as necessary
(90" V4 cross-flow) to ensure that the open ends of the clip are positioned
180" from the notch in the wrist pin bore. I
I
The wrist pin is a slip-fit in the piston and should not d. While holding the cone and piston aligned, briskly
require more than moderate hand pressure to install. As- push downward on the driver to install the lock clip.
semble the No. 1 cylinder components first, then repeat See Figure 93. I
this procedure for the remaining cylinders. e. Remove the tools and inspect the clip. The open ends
of the clip must be positioned 180" from the notch
CAUTION in the wrist pin bore and the clip must be fully seated I
When installed, the narrow, steep and in its groove.
shaver side of each piston's deflector must
face the intake ports (awayfrom the oppos- 2. Lubricate the wrist pin with oil and insert it into the side
ing cylinder bank) and the longel; gently- of the piston without the lock ring installed. Push the pin I
sloped side must face the exhaust ports and into the wrist pin boss until it is just flush with the connect-
cover (located between the cylinder banks). ing rod cavity.
3. Liberally apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly
1. Refer to Figure 92 for the following procedure. Using Grease to the connectingrod's small end bore, then arrange I
cone (part No. 318600) and driver (part No. 318599) or the 28 loose needle bearings in the bore. Use the bearing
installation tool (part No. 336660) or a suitable dowel or I
socket to help align the bearings. See Figure 94.

4. Position a thrust washer on each side of the connecting
rod small end. Make sure the stepped side of each thrust
washer is against the loose needle bearings (Figure 95).
Apply additional needle bearing grease as necessary to I
hold the washers in position.
5. Make sure the connecting rod is correctly orientated to
the piston. Refer to Connecting Rod Orientation as neces-
340 CHAPTER EIGHT
sary. Remember that the piston's deflector dome must be

positioned so that the narrow, steep slope faces the intake
ports when installed.
6. Align the rod to the piston. Push the wrist pin into the
rod and loose needles, then continue pushing the wrist pin
until it just contacts the lock clip installed in Step 1. If the
pin is di%cult to install, continue to Step 7.
7. If necessary, place the pistonlrod assembly into the
appropriate saddle of piston cradle (part No. 326572) or
equivalent. See Figure 96, typical. Press the pin into the
piston using driver (part No. 318599) or equivalent, until
the remaining lock clip groove is exposed. Do not press 3
the pin any further than necessary to expose the groove, or
the piston and the lock clip will be damaged.
8. Inspect the assembly and make sure that none of the 28 1. Pin Installation tool
needle bearings or either of the thrust washers were dis- 2. Piston
placed, and that the rod pivots freely on the wrist pin. 3. Piston cradle tool
Correct any problems found.
9. Install the second wrist pin lock clip into its groove in
the same manner as described in Step 1.
Piston instalhtbn (90" V4 cross-@w)
1. Check the end gap of the new piston rings for each
cylinder as described in Piston Ring End Gap under this
chapter. The ring end gap must be 0.019-0.031 in. (0.483-
0.787 mrn).
CAUTION
Install the piston rings onto the pistons that
match the cylinder bore for which the rings
were fitted.
2. Using a suitable ring expander, install the piston rings

onto all of the pistons. Install the bottom (rectangular)ring
first, then the top (tapered) ring. Expand each ring only
enough to fit over the piston crown and into its groove.
Make sure that each ring is installed in the correct orien-
tation to allow the ring end gaps to properly straddle the
locating pin in each ring groove. See Figure 97, typical.
3. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between
the bottom (rectangular) piston ring and its ring groove.
Each ring must be seated in its groove during its measure-
ment. See Figure 98, typical. Take measurements at sev-
eral locations around the piston. The ring side clearance
must not exceed 0.004 in. (0.102 rnm). If the clearance is
excessive, replace the piston(s).
4. Check the fit of the upper (tapered) ring to each piston
by placing a straightedge across the ring as shown in
Figure 99. The straightedge must touch the piston on both
sides of the ring. Check the fit at several locations around
the piston. If the ring holds the straightedgefrom the piston
at any point, the ring groove is not sufficiently cleaned or
POWER HEAD
is damaged. Remove the ring and clean the groove as

necessary. Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection.
5 . Lubricate the No. 1 cylinder piston rings, piston and
cylinder bore with oil.
6. Install the No. 1 cylinder piston and connecting rod
assembly as follows: I
a. Venfy that the end gap of each piston ring is strad-
dling the ring locating pin in each ring groove.
CAUTION
When installed, the narrow, steep and
sharper side o f each piston's deflector must
1 face-the intaki ports-(away fro; the oppos-
ing cylinder bank) and the longel; gently-
1
I
sloped side must face the exhaust ports and
cover (located between the cylinder banks). ,
b. Using a tapered sleeve ring compressor, such as part
No. 327018 (standard bore) or part No. 330221
(oversize bore), install the No. 1 piston into ids
cylinder bore with the sharp, steep side of the deflec-
tor facing the intake ports. Be careful to keep the
rod's big end from damaging the cylinder bore.
c. Insert a small screwdriver (or pencil) through the
intake and exhaust ports and depress each piston
ring. See Figure 100, typical. If the ring does not
spring back when the screwdriveris removed, it was
probably broken during piston installation. Replace
any broken or damaged rings. I
7. Repeat Steps 5-6 for the cylinder No. 2-4 piston(s).
8. Ifremoved, install four new water deflectors. Coat each
~ I
new deflector with STP Oil Treatment and push it into 1

position in the water jacket. All four deflectors are thk I
same length. Do not shorten or m o d e the deflectors. It is

normal for the deflectors to protrude slightly from the
cylinder block. Refer back to Figure 72 for exact deflector I
positioning in the water jacket. I I
I
NOTE
Do not use sealant on thecylinderheadscraos.
9. Install both cylinder heads. Lightly coat both sides of

the new head gaskets with OMC Gasket Sealing Com!
pound. Position each cylinder head (and new gasket) on
the cylinder block (as noted during disassembly), then
install the screws (without sealant). Evenly tighten each
cylinder head screw to 216-240 in.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N.m) in
the pattern shown in Figure 101. I
Crankshaft i n s t u l W n (90" V4 cross-flow) ,

The connecting rods on these models require a special
fixture (part No. 396749) to correctly align the cap. The
special fixture contacts the rod cap and rod body on four
342 CHAPTER EIGHT
CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY (90"V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS)
18-@
e-17
I
I
I
/
I
afB3-12
-1 1
I
19-8 e-20 I Q-13
1. Upper seal
2. Screw
&-21 L.
1
'
-.
1'
.. gz1:
' ~ 4
3. Upper crankcase
head (and bearing) 12. Ball bearing 21. Bearing screw
4. O-ring 13. Retalning ring 22. Connecting rod and cap
5. Flywheel key 14. O-ring 23. Rod cap screw
6. Crankshaft (drive shaft seal) 24. Bearing assembly
7. Seal rlng 15. Crankshaft sleeve 25. Thrust washers
8. Retaining ring 16. O-ring 26. Loose needles
9. Bearing race halves 17. Lower seal 27. Wrist pin lock clips
10. Caged roller 18. Lower crankcase head 28. Wrist pin
bearing halves 19. Crankcase head screw 29. Piston
11. Retainer plate 20. Seal 30. Piston rings
POWER HEAD 343
machined comers, applying a predetermined clamping e. If the crankshaft sleeve was not removed, install the
force. The fixture is left in place during the tightening retaining ring (13, Figure 102) with the flat or
process, ensuring perfect rod cap alignment. sharp-edged side of the ring facing away from the
bearing, using a suitable pair of retaining ring pliers.
CAUTION 2. If the crankshaft sleeve (15, Figure 102) was removed,
Failure to correctly use the alignmentfiture install a new sleeve as follows:
will result in premature connecting rod big a. Lubricate a new sleeve and the crankshaft with oil.
end bearing failure, which will also result in
the connecting rod and cranbhaji being de- b. Place the sleeve into the bearinglsleeve installer
stroyed. (part No. 338648) or equivalent.
c. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter-
Rod cap screw socket (part No. 331638) or an equivalent weight in a press. Position the installer tool and
heavy-duty 12-point, thin-wall, 5/16 in. socket is required sleeve over the crankshaft and press against the
to torque the rod cap screws. installer until the installer contacts the ball bearing.
1. If the crankshaft ball bearing (12, Figure 102) was d. If the installer proves difficult to remove after press-
removed, install a new bearing as follows: ing the sleeve in place, thread a suitable slide ham-
a. Slide the bearing retainer plate (11,Figure 102) over mer, such as part No. 391008 into the installer and
the lower end of the crankshaft. The flat side of the pull it from the crankshaft.
plate must face downward. e. Inspect the sleeve for distortion or deformation. The
b. Lubricate the new bearing and the crankshaftjournal sleeve must be removed and replaced if it is dam-
with oil. aged, distorted or deformed in any manner.
c. Slide the bearing over the drive shaft end of the f. Install the ball bearing retaining ring (13, Figure
crankshaft with the numbered side of the bearing 102) with the flat or sharp-edged side of the ring
facing away from the crankshaft. facing away from the bearing, using a suitable pair
of retaining ring pliers.
d. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter-
3. Lubricate a new O-ring (14, Figure 102) with OMC
weight in a press. Press against the inner race of the
Moly Lube, then install it into the crankshaft sleeve at the
bearing with BearingISleeve Installer (part No.
lower end of the crankshaft.
338648) or a suitable mandrel, until it is seated on
the crankshaft. 4. Assemble and install the lower crankcase head as fol-
lows:
NOTE a. Coat the metal case of a new lower seal (17, Figure
If the crankshaji sleeve was removed, do not 102) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, then set !
install the bearing retaining ring (13,Figure the seal into the head with the extended seal lip I
102) until the sleeve is pressed into place. facing toward the gearcase. See Figure 103. I
Lower crankcase head Extended seal lip

facing down
CHAPTER EIGHT
b. Using the seal installer (part No. 326567) or a suit- Set the head in a press with its seal bore facing up.
able mandrel, press the seal into the head. Then Coat the metal case of a new upper seal with OMC
lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Gasket Sealing Compound, then set the seal into the
Grease. head with its lip facing down.
c. Lubricate two new O-rings with OMC Triple Guard Using a seal installer (part No. 325453) or a suitable
Grease, then install the O-rings into the grooves in mandrel, press the seal into the crankcase head.
the head. Lubricate the seal lip with OMC Triple Guard
d. Install two guide pins (part No. 383175) or an Grease. Lubricate the bearing rollers with oil.
equivalent pair of 1/4-28 X 10 in. long rods into two Lubricate two new O-rings with OMC Triple Guard
opposing threaded holes in the retainer plate (11, Grease, then install the O-rings into the grooves in
Figure 102).Do not thread the guide pins more than the crankcase head.
two or three turns into the plate. Slide the crankcase head over the flywheel end of
e. Install the lower crankcasehead over the ball bearing the crankshaft with the seal side of the assembly
(12, Figure 102), making sure the guide pins are facing toward the flywheel.
installed in the appropriate holes in the head. Seat ssemble the center main bearing as follows:
the head onto the bearing. Apply a coat of needle bearing assembly grease
f. Verify that the seals (20, Figure 102) are installed around the crankshaft's center main bearing journal.
on four new bearing retainer screws (2I), then lightly Position the two caged needle bearing halves around
coat the seals with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. the journal.
g. Coat the threads of the screws with OMC Nut Lock Position the main bearing race halves around the
threadlocking adhesive. Install screws into the two journal with the retaining ring groove facing the
open holes and engage the retaining ring threads. Do exhaust housing (down). See Figure 105.
NOT tighten the screws at this time. Carefully align the fractured parting lines, then in-
h. Remove the guide pins from the other crankcase stall the retainer ring. Position the retainer ring to
head screw holes. Then install the remaining two cover as much of both fracture lines as possible.
screws into the holes and engage the retaining ring
threads. Once all screws engage the retaining ring
threads, tighten all four screwsfinger-tight.See Fig-
ure 104.
i. Evenly tighten the four screws to 95-120 in.-lb. Groove toward
bottom of crankshaft
(10.7-13.6 N.m) in a minimum of three progressive
stages.
5. Assemble and install the upper crankcase head as fol-
lows:
Crankcase head-to-
bearing retainer screws
I ~ower.crankcasehead I
POWER HEAD
7. Install the crankshaft seal rings. Install each ring into c. Rotate the lower crankcase head to align the screw
the groove from which it was removed. Expand each ring holes, then seat the head against the cylinder block.
using a standard piston ring expander just far enough to Install two screws (finger-tight) to hold the head in
allow it to pass over the nearest bearing journal. Do not place.
expand the rings more than necessary. d. Rotate the upper crankcase head to align the screw
8. Position the cylinder block so that it is sitting on the holes, then seat the head against the cylinder block.
cylinder heads and the crankcase cover mating surface is Install two screws (finger-tight) to hold the head in
facing up. Push the pistons to the bottom of their bores, place.
then position the connecting rods to the sides of the crank- 10. Begin the installation of the No. 1 cylinder connecting
case. Use rubber bands to hold the connecting rods in rod to the crankshaftjournal as follows:
position. a. Grease the cranlcpin journal with a thick coat of
needle bearing assembly grease. Install the caged
NOTE bearing halves to the journal. If the original bearings
There are many things to align when install- are being re-used, they must be installed in their
ing the crankshaft. Work slowly and pa- original position.
tiently. b. Pull the No. 1 cylinder rod and piston assembly up
to the No. 1 crankpin journal and bearings. Rotate
9. Position the crankshaft assembly over the cylinder the crankshaft as necessary to allow mating of the
block and slowly lower it into the block. Make sure each rod and journal.
of the following is verified: c. Install the matching connecting rod cap in its origi-
a. Rotate the center main bearing as necessary to align nal orientation. carefully observefracture and align-
the bearing with the locating dowel in the cylinder ment marks to ensure correct installation.
block (Figure 106, typical). d. Lubricate the screw threads and underside of the
b. Rotate the seal rings to position the open ends facing screw heads of new connecting rod screws with oil.
up as shown in Figure 107. Then while holding the cap &y in position, install
the connecting rod screws and thread them fully into
the rod.
e. Tighten each screw initially to 25-30 in.-lb. (1.69
N.m).
1 1. Assemble the rod cap alignment fixture as follows:
a. Move the flat on the knob marked Set to align with
the arrow embossed on the tool's frame. Move the
adjustment knob in or out until the second ring from
the outermostend of the knob aligns with the surface
CHAPTER EIGHT
of the tool frame. The instruction sheet refers to this position on the cylinder block. Seat the cover to the block
as mark B. Then rotate the knob 180" to lock the with hand pressure.
adjustment.
b. Install the retaining jaw labeled C and the forcing NOTE
jaw labeled D to the fixture frame as described by Before installing the taper pins, the crank-
the tool's instruction sheet. case cover must be seated to the cylinder
block and held in place by the main bearing
c. Lubricate the four precision ground corners of the
screws, but without any substantial clamping
connecting rod's big end, then position the fixture load being applied by the screws. The cover
over the big end in the manner shown in Figure 108. must be able to shzft slightly when the taper
d. Allow the stop plunger in the center of the M e to pin is installed, precisely aligning the cover
contact the rod cap. Then align the grooves ma- to the cylinder block.
chined into the jaws with the rod cap-to-connecting
rod parting line. 5. Install and tighten the six main bearing screws finger-
e. Tighten the tool's forcing screw to 23 in.-lb. (2.6 tight (until the cover is seated to the block). Then install
N.m). Verify that the stop plunger is contacting the the taper pins (3, Figure 110) and seat each in its bore. Do
rod cap and that the grooves in the jaws are aligned not drive either taper pin too tightly into its bore or it will
with the rod's parting line. split the cylinder block and crankcase cover.
12. Loosen both rod cap screws 114 turn. Then retighten 6. Install and finger-tighten the eight flange screws (4,
both screws to apreliminary torque of 40-60 in.-lb. (4.5-6.8 Figure 110).
N.m). Apply a final torque of 30-32 ft.-lb. (40.7-43.4N.m)
7. Tap the lower crankcase head with a soft-faced mallet
in a minimum of three progressive steps.
to seat it in its bore. Then do the same to the upper
13. Loosen the forcing screw and remove the fixture. Run crankcase head.
a fingernail or pencil lead over each of the four beveled
(machined) edges of the rod-to-cap joint (Figure 109, 8. Tighten the six main bearing screws evenly to 216-240
typical). The edges must be perfectly flush with no detect- in.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N.m) in a crossing pattern starting with
able misalignment. If any misalignment is detected, the the center screws and working outward. Then tighten the
connecting rod must be replaced eight flange screws in the same manner to 60-84 in.-lb.
(6.8-9.5 N.m).
14. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for
binding or unusual noise. If noted, remove the piston and 9. Remove the two screws from the lower crankcasehead.
connecting rod just installed and correct the defect before Coat all of the lower crankcasehead screws with OMC Nut
proceeding. Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install the screws (1, Figure
15. Repeat Steps 11- 14 for the remaining piston and con- 111) and evenly tighten them to 120-144 in.-lb. (13.6- 16.3
necting rod assemblies. N.m). Do not disturb the bearing retainer screws (2).
10. Remove the two screws from the upper crankcase
head. Coat all of the upper crankcase head screws with
C m n h e assembly (90" V4 cross-jbw) OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install and evenly
tighten the screws to 120-144 in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N.m).
11. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for
1. Using an oil- and wax-free solvent, such as OMC binding or unusual noise. If binding or noise is noted, the
Cleaning Solvent, acetone or lacquer thinner, clean the
cylinder block and crankcase cover mating surfaces.
2. Spray the crankcase cover mating surface with OMC
Locquic Primer and allow it to air dry.
3. Apply OMC Gel Seal I1 sealant to the mating surface
of the cyliilder block. Run a continuous sealant bead along
the inside of all screw holes, then carefully spread the bead
over the entire surface of the flange, making sure the
sealant will not contaminate the bearings, seal rings or
ooze excessively into the crankcase's internal chambers.
Keep the sealant approximately 114in. (6.35 mm)from the
crankshaft seal rings and bearings.
4. Venfy that the crankshaft seal rings are positioned as
shown in Figure 107, then install the crankcase cover into
POWER HEAD
crankcase cover must be removed and the cause located

and corrected before proceeding.
cylinder block. Install and evenly tighten the six screws to
60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). 1
12. Coat the outer diameter of both temperature switch NOTE
bodies with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Do not coat The exhaust cover on 88 and 90 hp models
the metal faces of the switches. Install each switch into its is flat, while the cover used on 112 and 115
cylinder head bore until it is seated. See 3 1, Figure 110. hp models incorporates a large bubble at the
13. Coat two new cylinder head cover gaskets (27, Figure bottom. See Figure 110. Thefasteners are all
the same length on 88 and 90 hp models,
110) and the threads of the cover screws (30) with OMC
while dperent length fasteners are used on
Gasket Sealing Compound. Position each cover onto its 112 and 115 hp models. Additionally, a sin-
cylinder head (using a new gasket) and install its screws. gle, internal screw (20, Figure 110) is used
Position all clamps as noted during assembly. Evenly on 112 and 115 hp models to hold the inner
tighten the cover's 16 screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) exhaust manLj01d to the cylinder block.
in a crossing pattern, starting at the center and working
outward. 16. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to new inner
14. Coat four new intake cover gaskets (and the threads of and outer exhaust cover gaskets. Then coat all of the cover
the cover screws) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. screws with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive.
Position each cover to the cylinder block in its original 17A. 88 and 90 hp models-Position the inner exhaust
position (using a new gasket). Position both cowl support cover gasket, inner exhaust cover, outer exhaust cover
brackets, ground studs, leads and clamps as noted during gasket and outer exhaust cover on the cylinder block (in
I
disassembly. Install and evenly tighten each cover's six that order). Install the 21 screws and all clamps as noted
fasteners to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). during disassembly Evenly tighten the screws to 60-84
in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) in a crossing pattern, starting at the
15. Coat a new water passage cover gasket (10, Figure center and working outward.
110) and the threads of the cover screws with OMC Gasket 17B. 112 and 115 hp models-Install the inner and outer
Sealing Compound. Position the cover and gasket on the exhaust covers as follows:
a. Position the inner exhaust cover gasket, then the
inner exhaust cover on the cylinderblock. Secure the
inner cover to the cylinder block with the single,
internal screw. Make sure all of the cover holes and
~
the gasket are aligned before tightening the screw to
60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
'~
b. Position the outer exhaust cover gasket, then the
Ground areas outer exhaust cover on the inner exhaust cover. In-
stall the 19 screws (and all clamps as noted during
disassembly). Evenly tighten the screws to 60-84
in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) in a crossing pattern, starting at
the center and working outward.
18. Position the throttle control arm on the starboard side
of the crankcase cover. Install and securely tighten its
screw. The correct stack-up of the throttle control arm
screw is: washer, bushing, spacer, control arm, bushing,
washer and screw. Make sure the arm is correctly assem-
bled before tightening the screw.
19. Install the intake manifold and reed blocks, carbure-
tors, fuel pump (non-oil injected models), fuel primer
solenoid and all related fuel, primer and external recircu-
lation lines. See Chapter Six.
20. Install the entire ignition and electrical system and all
related mounting brackets. This includes the stator assem-
bly, sensor coil, power pack and ignition coils, voltage
regulator (or rectifier) and the wiring harness. Install the
trim/tilt relay junction box on models with trim and tilt.
348 CHAPTER EIGHT
POWER HEAD 349
Secure all leads and harnesses with the original clamps or

new tie-straps. See Chapter Seven.
21. Install the flywheel and the electric starter motor as
described in Chapter Seven.
22. Install the power head as described in this chapter.
CYLINDER BLOCK ASSEMBLY Assembly (60" V4 and V6 Models)

(90' V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS) Refer to Figure 87 for cylinder location. Refer to Figure
112 and Figure 113 for the following procedures.
1. Cylinder block
2. Crankcase cover
3. Taper pin Piston and connecting rod assembly
4. Flange screws (60"V4 and V6)
5. Main bearing screws
6. Dowel pin The wrist pin is a slip-fit in the piston and should not
7. Plug
8. Internal recirculation require more than moderate hand pressure to install. As-
check valve semble the No. 1cylindercomponents first, then repeat this
9. Idle stop bracket procedure for the remaining cylinders.
and screw
10. Gasket
11. Water cover
CAUTION 1
Thepistons are markedport exhaust orstur- I
12. Screw
13. Auxiliary lifting bracket board exhaust. See Figure 114. Pistons I
14. Screw
15. Gasket I
16. Inner exhaust cover
I
17. Gasket
18. Outer exhaust cover
19. Screw LOWER CRANKCASE HEAD
20. Screw (inner exhaust cover)
21. Water discharge
elbow and hose
22. Water hose
23. Spring clamps
24. Water deflector
25. Head gasket
26. Cylinder head
27. Gasket
28. Cylinder head water cover
29. Head bolt
30. Cover screw
31. Water temperature switch
32. Gaskets
33. Intake cover (upper)
34. Screw
35. Intake cover (lower)
36. Lower cowl
support bracket
37. Ground strap, screw
and washer
1. Lower crankcase head screws

2. Bearing retainer plate screws
350 CHAPTER EIGHT
POWER HEAD
CYLINDER AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY

(60"V4 AND V6 MODELS)
1. Cylinder block 32. Washer

2. Crankcase cover 33. Filter
3. Taper pin 34. Grommet liner
4. Flange screws 35. Worm clamp
5. Main bearing screws 36. Exhaust relief
and washers and flushing port
6. Dowel pin 37. Tie-strap
7. Recirculation 38. O-ring
check valve 39. Water discharge
8. Pulse line fitting fitting
9. Port cylinder head 40. O-ring
10. O-ring 41. Recirculationfitting
11. Pipe plug 42. Screw
(water pressure port) 43. Shift bellcrank
12. Thermostat seal 44. Screw
13. Starboard cylinder head 45. Retainer bushing
14. Thermostat 46. Bushing
15. Pressure relief spring 47. Wave washer
16. O-ring 48. Flat washer
17. Thermostat cover 49. Cotter clip
18. Temperature 50. Shift shaft
swltch assembly 51. Bushing
19. Screw 52. Flat washers
20. Washer 53. Cotter pins
21. Lower cowl mount 54. Shift lever link
22. Control cable 55. Rear shift lever
trunnion block 56. Bushing
23. Screw 57. Flat washer
24. Trunnion cover 58. Shoulder screw
25. Screw 59. Slider bracket 016)
26. Lower cowl seals 60. Spring 016)
n.Motor mount 61. Switch mounting
28. Steering arm screw bracket (V6)
29. Motor mount retainer 62. Cable mounting
30. Retainer screw Pin (V6)
31. Shift shaft seal 63. Shift assist
switch 016)
352 CHAPTER EIGHT
CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY
(60" V4 AND V6 MODELS)
1. Upper seal
2. Flywheel locating pin
3. Encoder wheel key
4. Seal ring
5. Crankshaft
6. Connecting rod screw
7. Caged bearing halves
9. Thrust washers
11. Piston rings
12. Piston
13. Wrist pin
14. Loose needles
15. Retaining ring
18. Ball bearing and locating ring
19. Retaining ring
20. O-ring (drlve shaft seal)
22. O-ring
23. Lower seal
24. Lower seal carrier
POWER HEAD
marked starboard exhaust must be installed washer is against the loose needle bearings (Figure 95).
in the starboard cylinderbank (cylindersNo. Apply additional needle bearing grease as necessary to
1,3 or 5)and the stamped marking mustface hold the washers in position.
the exhaust ports (toward the opposing cyl- 5. Make sure the connecting rod is correctly orientated to
inder bank). Pistons marked port exhaust the piston. Refer to Connecting Rod Orientation as neces-
must be installed in the port cylinder bank
(cylinders No. 2, 4 or 6) and the stamped sary.
6. Align the rod to the piston. Push the wrist pin into the
marking mustface the exhaustports (toward
the opposing cylinder bank). rod and loose needles, then continue pushing the wrist pin
until it just contacts the lock clip installed in Step 1. If the
1. Using cone (part No. 318600) and driver (part No. pin is difficult to install, continue to Step 7.
318599) or equivalent,install a new wrist pin lock clip into 7. If necessary, place the pistonlrod assembly into the
one end of the wrist pin bore as follows: appropriate saddle of piston cradle (part No. 326572) or
a. Insert a new lock clip (2, Figure 92, typical) into the equivalent. See Figure 96, typical. Press the pin into the
internally tapered end of the cone (3). piston using driver (part No. 318599) or equivalent, until
b. Insert the driver (1, Figure 92, typical) into the cone the remaining lock clip groove is exposed. Do not press the
and push the lock clip until it is approximately 112 pin any further than necessary to expose the groove, or the
in. (12.7 mm) from the externally beveled end. piston and the lock clip will be damaged.
c. Position the externally beveled end of the cone over 8. Inspect the assembly and make sure that none of the 28
the wrist pin bore and rotate the cone as necessary to needle bearings or either of the thrust washers were dis-
ensure that the open ends of the clip are positioned placed, and that the rod pivots freely on the wrist pin.
180" from the notch in the wrist pin bore. Correct any problems found.
d. While holding the cone and piston aligned, briskly 9. Install the second wrist pin lock clip into its groove in
push downward on the driver to install the lock clip. the same manner as Step 1.
e. Remove the tools and inspect the clip. The open ends Piston installation (60" V4 and V6)
of the clip must be positioned 180" from the notch '~
in the wrist pin bore and the clip must be fully seated 1. Check the end gap of the new piston rings for each
in its groove. cylinder as described in Piston Ring End Gap in this
2. Lubricate the wrist pin with oil and insert it into the side chapter. The ring end gap must be 0.011-0.023in. (0.279-
of the piston without the lock ring installed. Push the pin 0.584 mm).
into the wrist pin boss until it is just flush with the connect-
ing rod cavity. CAUTION
Install the piston rings onto the pistons that
3. Liberally apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly match the cylinder bore for which the rings
Grease to the connectingrod's small end bore, then arrange were fitted.
the 28 loose needle bearings in the bore. Bearing installa-
tion tool (part No. 336660) or a suitable dowel or socket 2. Using a suitable ring expander, install the piston rings
can be used to help align the bearings. See Figure 94. onto all of the pistons. Both rings are semi-keystone and
4. Position a thrust washer on each side of the connecting either ring may be installed in either groove. Install the
rod small end. Make sure the stepped side of each thrust bottom ring first, then the top ring. Expand each ring only
enough to fit over the piston crown and into its groove.
Make sure that each ring is installed in the correct orienta-
tion to allow the ring end gaps to properly straddle the
locating pin in each ring groove. See Figure 97.
3. Check the fit of each ring to its piston by placing a
straightedge across the ring as shown in Figure 99, typical.
The straightedge must touch the piston on both sides of the
ring. Check the fit at several locations around the piston.
If the ring holds the straightedge from the piston at any
point, the ring groove is not sufficiently cleaned or is
damaged. Remove the ring and clean the groove as neces-
sary. Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection.
4. Lubricate the No. 1 cylinder piston rings, piston and
cylinder bore with oil.
CHAPTER EIGHT
5. Install the No. 1 cylinder piston and connecting rod Evenly tighten the cylinder head screws to 108-204
assembly as follows: in.-lb. (20.3-23.0 N.m) following the pattern cast
a. Verify that the end gap of each piston ring is strad- into each cylinder head.
dling the ring locating pin in each ring groove.
CAUTION Crankshaft installutiun
When installed, the starboard (or port) ex- (60" V4 and V6)
haust stamped on the piston dome mustface
the exhaustports of the appropriate cylinder
bank. The connecting rods on these models require a special
fixture (part No. 396749) to correctly align the cap. The
b. Using a tapered sleeve ring compressor, such as part special fixture contacts the rod cap and rod body on four
No. 336314 (standard bore) or part No. 336313 machined comers, applying a predetermined clamping
(oversize bore), install the No. 1 piston into its force. The fixture is left in place during the tarquing
cylinder bore with the stamping (starboard exhaust process, ensuring perfect rod cap alignment.
or port exhaust) facing the exhaust ports. Be careful
to keep the rod's big end from damaging the cylinder
bore.
CAUTION
Due to the design of this block, the rings
cannot be checkedfor damage afer installa- CYLINDER HEAD SEALING
tion. Use extreme care and the correct sleeve (60"V4 AND V6 MODELS)
style compressor topreventpiston ring dam-
age or breakage. Z f in doubt, remove the
piston and recheck the rings.
6. Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 for the remaining piston and
connecting rod assemblies.
7. Install the cylinder heads as follows:
a. Coat the new O-rings with OMC Triple Guard
Grease and install them into the cylinder block
grooves.
b. Install a new thermostat seal (12, Figure 112) into
each cylinder head. Place the seal into the cylinder
head from the cylinder block side of the head. Make
sure the side of the seal marked TO CYL HEAD is
facing the thermostat.
c. Apply a very fine bead (approximately 1/16 in. [1.6
mm]) of GE RTV adhesive around each water pas-
sage (A, Figure 115) on the cylinder heads. Do not
apply any sealer around the thermostat seal area (B,
Figure 115) and do not allow the sealer to ooze
excessively into the cooling water passages. Keep
the adhesive away from the cylinder block O-rings
as much as possible.
NOTE
Use no sealant on the cylinder head screws.
Zfa torque pattern is cast into the cylinder
head near each screw hole, follow the pat-
tern when tightening the screws.
d. Install each cylinder head in its original position
making sure the cylinder block O-rings are not dis-
placed. Then install the screws (without sealant).
POWER HEAD
CAUTION the flat or sharp-edged side of the ring facing away

Failure to correctly use the Alignment Fix- from the bearing.
ture will result in premature connecting rod 3. Lubricate a new O-ring (20, Figure 113) with OMC
big end bearing failure, which will also re- Moly Lube, then install it into the crankshaft sleeve at the
sult in the connecting rod and crankshaft lower end of the crankshaft.
being destroyed.
4. Assemble and install the lower crankcase head as fol-
Rod cap screw socket (part No. 331638) or an equivalent lows:
heavy-duty 12-point, 5/16 in. thin-wall socket is required a. Coat the metal case of a new lower seal (23, Figure
to torque the rod cap screws. 113) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, then set
the seal into the head with the extended seal lip
1. If the crankshaft ball bearing was removed, install a new facing down (toward the gearcase). See Figure 103,
bearing as follows: typical.
a. Lubricate the new bearing and the crankshaftjournal b. Using a suitable mandrel, press the seal into the
with oil. head. Then lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple
b. Slide the bearing over the drive shaft end of the Guard Grease.
crankshaft with the locating ring in the bearing's c. Lubricate a new O-ring with OMC Triple Guard
outer race positioned facing away from the crank- Grease, then install the O-ring into the groove in the
shaft. This should also result in the numbered side head.
of the bearing facing away from the crankshaft. d. Carefully slide the crankcase head over the lower
c. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter- end of the crankshaft and seat it against the ball
weight in a press. Press against the inner race of the bearing.
bearing with bearinglsleeve installer (part No. 5. Install the crankshaft seal rings. Install each ring into
338647) or a suitable mandrel, until it is seated on the groove from which it was removed. Expand each ring
the crankshaft. using a standard piston ring expander just far enough to 1
allow it to pass over the nearest bearing journal. Do not
NOTE
Ifthe crankshaft sleeve (21, Figure 113) was expand any ring more than necessary.
removed, do not install the bearing retaining 6. Assemble the main bearings as follows:
ring (19) until the sleeve is pressed into a. Apply a coat of needle bearing assembly grease
place. around the crankshaft's upper main bearing journal.
b. Position the two caged needle bearing halves around
d. If the crankshaft sleeve was not removed, install the the journal.
retaining ring (19, Figure 113) with the flat or c. Position the main bearing race halves around the
sharp-edged side of the ring facing away from the journal with the retaining ring groove facing the
bearing, using a suitable pair of retaining ring pliers. exhaust housing (down). See Figure 105, typical.
2. If the crankshaft sleeve (21, Figure 113) was removed, d. Carefully align the fractured parting lines, then in-
install a new sleeve as follows: stall the retainer ring. Position the retainer ring to
a. Lubricate a new sleeve and the crankshaft with oil. cover as much of both fracture lines as possible.
b. Place the sleeve into bearinglsleeve installer (part e. Repeat this procedure for the remaining main bear-
No. 338647) or equivalent. ing(~).
c. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter- 7. Position the cylinder block so that it is sitting on the
weight in a press. Position the installer tool and cylinder heads and the crankcase cover mating surface is
sleeve over the crankshaft and press against the facing up. Push the pistons to the bottom of their bores,
installer until the installer contacts the ball bearing. then position the connecting rods to the sides of the crank-
d. If the installer proves difficult to remove after press- case.
ing the sleeve in place, thread a suitable slide ham-
mer, such as part No. 391008 into the installer and NOTE
There are many things to align when install-
pull it from the crankshaft.
ing the crankshaft. Work slowly and pa-
e. Inspect the sleeve for distortion or deformation. The tiently.
sleeve must be removed and replaced if it is dam-
aged, distorted or deformed in any manner. 8. Position the crankshaft assembly over the cylinder
f. Use a suitable pair of retaining ring pliers to install block and slowly lower it into the block. Make sure each
the ball bearing retaining ring (19, Figure 113) with of the following is verified:
356 CHAPTER EIGHT
a. Rotate each main bearing as necessary to align the e. Tighten the tool's forcing screw to 23 in.-lb. (2.6
hole in each bearing with the locating dowel in the N-m). Venfy that the stop plunger is contacting the
cylinder block (Figure 106, typical). rod cap and that the grooves in the jaws are aligned
b. Make sure the locating ring on the lower main bear- with the rod's parting line.
ing is seated in its bore. 12. Loosen both rod cap screws 114 turn. Then retighten
c. Rotate the lower crankcase head as necessary to both screws to apreliminarytorque of 40-60in.-lb. (4.5-6.8
position its tab into the cylinder block recess. Nmm). Apply afinal torque of 30-32 ft.-lb. (40.7-43.4N.m)
d. Rotate the seal rings to position the open ends as in a minimum of three progressive steps.
shown in Figure 107, typical. 13. Loosen the forcing screw and remove the fixture. Run
9. Lubricate the lip of a new upper seal and slide it over a fingernail or pencil lead over each of the four machined
the upper end of the crankshaft. Do not apply any lubricant edges of the rod-to-cap joint (Figure 109, typical). The
or sealant to the outer diameter of the seal. Seat the seal in edges must be perfectly flush with no detectable misalign-
the cylinder block bore. ment. If any misalignment is detected, the connecting rod
10. Begin the installation of the No. 1 cylinder connecting must be replaced.
rod to the crankshaftjournal as follows: 14. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for
a. Grease the crankpin journal with a thick coat of binding or unusual noise. If noted, remove the piston and
needle bearing assembly grease. Install the caged connecting rod just installed and correct the defect before
bearing halves to the journal. If the original bearings proceeding.
are being re-used, they must be installed in their 15. Repeat Steps 11-14 for the remaining piston and con-
original position. necting rod assemblies.
b. Pull the No. 1 cylinder rod and piston assembly up
the crankshaft as necessary to allow mating of the Crankcase assembly (60" V4 and V6)
rod and journal.
1. Using an oil- and wax-free solvent, such as OMC
c. Install the matching connecting rod cap in its origi-
Cleaning Solvent, acetone or lacquer thinner, clean the
nal orientation. Carefully observefracture and align- cylinder block and crankcase cover mating surfaces.
ment marks to ensure correct installation.
d. Lubricate the screw threads and the underside of the
screw heads of new connecting rod screws with oil.
Then while holding the cap firmly in position, install 3. Apply OMC Gel Seal I1 sealant to the mating surface
the connectingrod screws and thread them fully into of the cylinder block. Run a continuous sealant bead along
the rod.
e. Tighten each screw initially to 25-30 in.-lb. (1.69
sealant will not contaminate the bearings, seal rings or
N.m). ooze excessively into the crankcase's internal chambers.
1 1. Assemble the rod cap alignment fixture as follows: Keep the sealant approximately 114 in. (6.35 mrn) from the
a. Move the flat on the knob marked Set to align with crankshaft seal rings and bearings.
the arrow embossed on the tool's frame. Move the 4. Make sure the crankshaft seal rings are positioned as
adjustment knob in or out until the second ring from shown in Figure 107.Then install the crankcasecover into
the outermostend of the knob aligns with the surface
of the tool frame. The instruction sheet refers to this
as mark B. Then rotate the knob 180" to lock the
adjustment.
b. Install the retaining jaw labeled C and the forcing
jaw labeled D to the fixture frame as described by
c. Lubricate the four precision ground comers of the
connecting rod's big end, then position the fixture
over the big end in the manner shown in Figure 108.
d. Allow the stop plunger in the center of the frame to
contact the rod cap. Then align the grooves ma-
chined into the jaws with the rod cap-to-connecting
rod parting line.
POWER HEAD
position on the cylinder block. Seat the cover to the block 11. Coat the outer diameter of both engine temperature
with hand pressure. switch bodies with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Do
5. Install and tighten the main bearing screws (5, Figure not coat the metal face of the switches. Install each switch
112) finger-tight until the cover is seated to the block. into its cylinder head bore and secure it in place by tight-
Install the two shorter screws in the holes at the bottom of ening the plastic retaining nut securely. See Fi- 116.
the crankcase cover. 12. Install the flushing port assembly as follows.Insert the
6. Venfy that the upper crankshaft seal (1, Figure 113) is washer (32, Figure 112) into the power head, followed by
seated in its bore. Then verify that the lower seal carrier the filter (33). Push the exhaust relief and flushing port
(24, Figure 113) is seated in its bore. assembly (36) onto the base of the power head. Secure the
7. Install and tighten the flange screws finger-tight at this center fitting with the original (or new) worm clamp.
time. Secure the outer fittings with new tie-straps. Tighten the
8. Tighten the main bearing screws evenly to 31-35 ft.-lb. clamp and the tie-straps securely.
(42-47.5 N.m) in a crossing pattern starting with the center 13. Install all external recirculation lines. See Chapter Six.
screws and working outward. Then tighten the flange Then install the lower recirculation fitting (41, Figure 112)
screws in the same manner to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m). using a new O-ring (40). Tighten the fitting's screw (42,
9. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for Figure 42) securely.
binding or unusual noise. If binding or noise is noted, the 14. Install the port shift shaft bushing (46, Figure 113)
crankcase cover must be removed and the cause of the and the starboard shift shaft retainer bushing (45) into the
defect located and corrected before proceeding. crankcase cover bosses. Lubricate the bushings with OMC
10. Install the thermostat components as described in the Triple Guard Grease.
T h e m s t a t section at the end of this chapter.
NOTE
NOTE V4 models do not use the shifr assist switch
The engine temperature switch with the and related components (59-63, Figure
whiteblack lead must be installed in the port 112).
cylinder head.
15. Make sure the wave and flat washers are installed on
the shift shaft, then slide the shift shaft (50, Figure 112) I
into the bushings at the bottom of the crankcasecover from
the starboard side of the power head. Position the rear shift
lever to its power head boss, then secure it in place with
the shoulder screw and flat washer (Figure 117). Tighten
the shoulder screw securely.
16. Slide the bellcrank (43, Figure 112) over the port end
of the shift shaft and secure it with its screw. Tighten the
screw to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
17. Make sure the bushing (51, Figure 112) is installed on
the end of the shift shaft, then lubricate the bushing with
OMC Triple Guard Grease.
18. Coat the threads of the trunnion anchor block screws:
with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Position the
anchor block (B, Figure 117) to the crankcase cover and
over the shift shaft bushing. Install and tighten both screws
securely.
19. Install the entire ignition and electrical system as
described in Chapter Seven. This includes the stator assem-
bly, ignition module, ignition coils, voltage regulator,
trim/tilt relay bracket, wiring harness and flywheel. Secure
all harnesses and leads with the original clamps or new
tie-straps. I
20. Install the throttle control shaft (A, Figure 117) into
its boss at the bottom of the starboard side of the power
head. Make sure the washer is positioned between the
bottom of the arm and the power head boss. Then install
CHAPTER EIGHT
the flywheel, optical sensor and flywheel cover as de- b. Insert the driver into the cone and push the lock clip
scribed in Chapter Seven. until it is approximately 112 in. (12.7 mm) from the
21. Install the electric starter motor and starter solenoid as externally beveled end.
described in Chapter Seven. c. Position the externally beveled end of the cone over
22. Install the intake manifolds, reed blocks, throttle bod- the wrist pin bore and rotate the cone as necessary to
ies, carburetors and the fuel component bracket as de- ensure that the open ends of the clip is positioned
scribed in Chapter Six. 180" from the notch in the wrist pin bore.
23. Install the power head as described in this chapter. d. While holding the cone and piston aligned, briskly
push downward on the driver to install the lock clip.
Assembly e. Remove the tools and inspect the clip. The open ends
(90" V4, V6 and V8 Loop-Charged Models) of the clip must be positioned 180"from the notch
in the wrist pin bore and the clip must be fully seated
Refer to Figure 87 for cylinder location on V4 and V6 in its groove.
models. The starboard bank is always the odd numbered 2. Lubricate the wrist pin with oil and insert it into the side
cylinders and the port bank is always the even numbered of the piston without the lock ring installed. Push the pin
cylinders. Cylinder No. 1 is always the highest cylinder in into the wrist pin boss until it is just flush with the comect-
the block. On V8 models, cylinders No. 1-6 are numbered ing rod cavity.
the same as the V6 models shown in Figure 87. Cylinder 3. Liberally apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly
No. 7 is located below cylinder No. 5 and cylinder No. 8 Greaseto the comecting rod's small end bore, then arrange
is located below cylinder No. 6. the 33 loose needle bearings in the bore. Bearing installa-
Refer to Figure 118 and Figure 119 for the following tion tool (part No. 338646) or a suitable dowel or socket
procedures. can be used to help align the bearings. See Figure 121.
4. Position a thrust washer on each side of the comecting
rod small end. Make sure the stepped side of each thrust
Piston and connecting rod assembly washer is against the loose needle bearings (Figure 122).
(90"V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged)
Apply additional needle bearing grease as necessary to
hold the washers in position.
Assemble the pistons and comecting rods. The wrist pin
is a slip-fit to the piston and should not require more than
5. Make sure the connecting rod is correctly orientated to
the piston. Refer to Connecting Rod orientation as neces-
moderate hand pressure to install. Assemble the No. 1
sary. Remember that the stamped starboard or port ex-
cylinder components first, then repeat this procedure for
haust mark must be installed in the cylinder bank for which
the remaining components.
it is marked and the stamped mark must face toward that
cylinder's exhaust port
CAUTION
Thepistons are markedport exhaust orstar- 6. Align the rod to the piston. Push the wrist pin into the
board exhaust. See Figure 114. Pistons rod and loose needles, then continue pushing the wrist pin
marked starboard exhaust must be installed until it just contacts the lock clip installed in Step 1. If the
in the starboard cylinder bank (cylinders No. pin is difficult to install, continue to Step 7.
1,3 or 5)and the stamped marking mustface 7. If necessary, place the pistodrod assembly into the
the exhaust ports (toward the opposing cyl-
appropriate saddle of piston cradle (part No. 326572) or
inder bank). Pistons marked port exhaust
must be installed in the port cylinder bank equivalent. See Figure 123, typical. Press the pin into the
(cylinders No. 2, 4 or 6) and the stamped piston using driver (part No. 396747) or equivalent, until
marking mustface the exhaustports (toward the remaining lock clip groove is exposed. Do not press the
the opposing cylinder bank). pin any further than necessary to expose the groove, or the
piston and the lock clip (already installed) will be dam-
1. Using cone (part No. 331913) and driver (part No. aged.
396747) or equivalent, refer to Figure 120 and install a 8. Inspect the assembly. Make sure that none of the 33
new wrist pin lock clip into one end of the wrist pin bore needle bearings or either of the thrust washers were dis-
as follows: placed and that the rod pivots freely on the wrist pin.
a. Insert a new lock clip into the internally tapered end Correct any problems found.
of the cone. 9. Install the second wrist pin lock clip by repeating Step 1.
POWER HEAD 359
TYPICAL C R A N K S W ASSEMBLY
(QOO V4, V6 AND V8 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
I. Upper seal
2. Upper crankcase head
and bearing assembly
3. Upper end cap O-rings
4. Seal ring
5. Flywheel key
6. Crankshaft
9. Bearing retainer ring
10. Connecting rod
cap screw
13. Thrust washers
15. Piston rings
16. Piston
17. Wrist pin
18. Loose needle bearlngs
19. Lower end cap O-rings
20. Retainer plate
21. Ball bearing
22. Retaining ring
23. O-ring ([drive shaft seal]
V4 and V6 models)
(V4 and V6 models)
25. Lower seal
26. Lower crankcase head
27. Crankcase head screw
28. Seal
29. Bearing screw
30. Screw
360 CHAPTER EIGHT
POWER HEAD 361
TYPICAL CYLINDER AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY

(90' V4, V6 AND V 8 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
1. Cylinder block 27. Thermostat cover

2. Crankcase cover 28. Screw and washer
3. Taper pin 29. O-ring
4. Flange screws 30. Nipple
5. Main bearing screws 31. Upper throttle
and washers control arm
6. Dowel pin 32. Lower throttle
7. Internal recirculation control arm
check valve 33. Bushings
8. External recirculation 34. Flat washers
check valve 35. Locknuts
9. Port cylinder head 36. Throttle link
10. Head gasket 37. Locknuts
11. Water restrictor 38. Bushings
(port side) 39. Rear shift lever
12. Gasket 40. Flat washer
13. Valve seat 41. Locknut
14. ~low-offvalve 42. Shift link
15. Spring 43. Flat washers
16. Blow-off valve 44. Cotter pins
housing 45. Screw
17. Screw and washer 46. Shift bellcrank
18. Starboard cylinder 47. Plastic washers
head 48. Bushings
19. Screw 49. Shift shaft
20. Engine temperature 50. Pin
switch 51. Slider bracket
21. Water restrictor (V6 and V8)
(starboard side) 52. Spring (V6 and V8)
22. Plastic sleeve 53. Switch mounting
23. Gasket bracket (V6 and V8)
24. Thermostat 54. Shift assist switch
25. Relief spring (V6 and V8)
26. Seal 55. Tie-strap
CHAPTER EIGHT
Piston installation (90" V4, V6 and V8) tions around the piston. If the ring holds the straight-
edge from the piston at any point, the ring groove is
1. Check the end gap of the new piston rings for each not sufficiently cleaned or is damaged. Remove the
cylinder as described in Piston Ring End Gap in this ring and clean the groove as necessary. Refer to
chapter. The ring end gap must be 0.019-0.031 in. (0.483- Power Head Cleaning and Inspection.
0.787 mm). 2B. V8 models-Proceed as follows:
a. Using a suitable ring expander, install the piston
CAUTION rings onto all of the pistons. Install the bottom (rec-
Install the piston rings onto the pistons that tangular) ring first, then the top (tapered) ring. Ex-
match the cylinder bore for which the rings pand each ring only enough to fit over the piston
werefitted. crown and into its groove. Make sure that each ring
is installed in the correct orientation to allow the ring
2A. V4 and V6 models-Proceed as follows:
end gaps to properly straddle the locating pin in each
a. Using a suitable ring expander, install the piston ring groove Pigure 124, typical).
rings onto all of the pistons. Both rings are serni-key- b. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearancebetween
stone and either ring may be installed in either each bottom (rectangular) piston ring and its ring
groove. Install the bottom ring first, then the top ring. groove. Each ring must be seatedin its groove during
Expand each ring only enough to fit over the piston this measurement. See Figure 126, typical. Take
crown and into its groove. Make sure that each ring measurements at several locations around the piston.
is installed in the correct orientation to allow the ring
end gaps to properly straddle the locating pin in each
ring groove (Figure 124, typical).
b. Check the fit of each ring to its piston by placing a
straightedge across the ring as shown in Figure 125,
typical. The straightedge must touch the piston on
both sides of the ring. Check the fit at several loca-
WRIST PIN LOCK

CLIP INSTALLATION
1. Driver
2. New lock clip
3. Cone
4. Piston
POWER HEAD 363
The ring side clearance must not exceed 0.004 in.

(0.102 rnm). If the clearance is excessive,replace the
piston(s).
c. Check the fit of the upper (tapered) ring to each
piston by placing a straightedge across the ring as
shown in Figure 125. The straightedge must touch
the piston on both sides of the ring. Check the fit at
several locations around the piston. If the ring holds
the straightedgefrom the piston at any point, the ring
groove is not sufficiently cleaned or is damaged.
Remove the ring and clean the groove as necessary.
Refer to Power Head Cleaning and Inspection.
3. Lubricate the No. 1 cylinder piston rings, piston and
3 cylinder bore with oil.
4. Install the No. 1 cylinder piston and comecting rod
assembly as follows:
a. Venfy that the end gap of each piston ring is strad-
1. Pin installationtool dling the ring locating pin in each ring groove.
2. Piston
3. Piston cradle tool CAUTION
When installed, the starboard or port ex-
haust markstamped on the piston dome must
face the exhaust ports of the appropriate
cylinder bank.
b. Using a tapered sleeve ring compressor, such as part

No. 334140 (standard bore) or part No. 334141
(oversize bore), install the No. 1 piston into its
cylinder bore with the stamping (starboard exhaust
or port exhaust) facing the exhaust ports. Be careful
to keep the rod's big end from damaging the cylinder
bore.
CAUTION
Due to the design of this block, the rings
cannot be checkedfor hmage afer installa-
CHAPTER EIGHT
tion. Use extreme care (and the correct Rod cap screw socket (part No. 331638)or an equivalent
sleeve style compressor) to prevent piston heavy-duty 12-point, thin-wall, 5/16 in. socket is required
ring damage or breakage. Ifin doubt, remove to torque the rod cap screws.
the piston and check the rings.
1. If the crankshaft ball bearing (21, Figure 118) was
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the remaining piston and removed, install a new bearing as follows:
connecting rod assemblies. a. Slidethe bearing retainer plate (20, Figure 118) over
6. V6 models-If removed, install three new water deflec- the lower end of the crankshaft. The flat side of the
tors. Coat each new deflector with oil and push it into plate must face downward.
position in the water jacket as shown in Figure 73. The b. Lubricate the new bearing and the crankshaftjournal
lower deflectors must measure 2-3/16 in. (55.56 mm) long with oil.
and the upper port deflector must measure 2-11/16 in. c. Slide the bearing over the drive shaft end of the
(68.26 mm) long. It is normal for the deflectors to protrude crankshaft with the numbered side of the bearing
slightly above the cylinder deck. Do not shorten or modify facing away from the crankshaft.
the deflectors. d. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter-
weight in a press. Press against the inner race of the
NOTE bearing with bearinglsleeve installer (part No.
Do not use sealant on the cylinder head
screws. On V4 and V6 models, follow the 338649 [V4 and V6]), bearing installer (part No.
instructions for orientation on the new cyl- 314426 [V8 models]) or a suitable mandrel, until it
inder head gaskets. On V8, position the is seated on the crankshaft.
tabbed end of the new gasketsfacing toward
theflywheel. NOTE
On V4 and V6 models, if the crankshaft
7. Install both cylinder heads. Lightly coat both sides of sleeve (24, Figure 118) was removed, do not
new head gaskets with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. install the bearing retaining ring (22) until
Position each cylinder head (and new gasket) on the cylin- the sleeve has been pressed intoplace. Since
der block with each head's thermostat opening facing up. V8 models are equipped with a torsion
Then install the screws (without sealant). damper on the lower end of the crankshaf,
it does not use the sleeve and O-ring. The
a. V4 and V8 models-Evenly tighten the screws (in a
bearing retaining ring must be installed at
minimum of three progressive stages) to 216-240 this time.
in.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N-m) in the pattern cast into each
cylinder head. e. V8 models-Install the retaining ring (22, Figure
b. V6 models-Evenly tighten the screws (in a mini- 118) with the flat (or sharp-edged) side of the ring
mum of three progressive stages) to 180-204 in.-lb. facing away from the bearing, using a suitable pair
(20.3-23.1N.m) in the pattern cast into each cylinder of retaining ring pliers.
head. f. V4 and V6 models-If the crankshaft sleeve was not
removed, install the retaining ring (22, Figure 118)
Crankshaft installation (90" V4, V6 and V8) with the flat or sharp-edged side of the ring facing
away from the bearing, using a suitable pair of
The connecting rods on these models require a special retaining ring pliers.
fixture (part No. 396749) to correctly align the cap. The 2. V4 and V6models-if the crankshaft sleeve (24, Figure
special fixture contacts the rod cap and rod body on four 118) was removed, install a new sleeve as follows:
machined comers, applying a predetermined clamping a. Lubricate a new sleeve and the crankshaft with oil.
force. The fixture is left in place during the torquing b. Place the sleeve into bearinglsleeve installer (part
process, ensuring perfect rod cap alignment. No. 338649) or equivalent.
V8 models are equipped with a torsion damper and do c. Support the crankshaft under the lower counter-
not use the sleeve (24, Figure 118) and O-ring (23). weight in a press. Position the installer tool and
sleeve over the crankshaft and press against the
CAUTION
Failure to correctly use the alignmentfiture installer until the installer contacts the ball bearing.
will result in premature connecting rod big d. I f the installer proves difficult to remove after press-
end bearingfailure, which will also result in ing the sleeve in place, thread a suitable slide ham-
the connecting rod and crankshafr being de- mer, such as part No. 391008 into the installer and
stroyed. pull it from the crankshaft.
POWER HEAD
e. Inspect the sleeve for distortion or deformation. The c. Lubricate two new O-rings with OMC Triple Guard
sleeve must be removed and replaced if it is darn- Grease, then install the O-rings into the grooves in
aged, distorted or deformed in any manner. the head.
f. Install the ball bearing retaining ring (22, Figure d. Install two guide pins (part No. 383175) or an
118) with the flat or sharp-edged side of the ring equivalent pair of 1/4-28 X 10 in. long rods into two
facing away from the bearing, using a suitable pair opposing threaded holes in the retainer plate (20,
of retaining ring pliers. Figure 118). Do not thread the guide pins more than
two or three turns into the plate.
g. Lubricate a new O-ring (23, Figure 118) with OMC e. Install the lower crankcasehead over the ball bearing
Moly Lube, then install it into the crankshaft sleeve (21, Figure 118), making sure the guide pins enter
at the lower end of the crankshaft. the appropriate holes in the head. Seat the head onto
3. Assemble and install the lower crankcase head as fol- the bearing.
lows: f. Verify that the seals (28, Figure 118) are installed
a. Coat the metal case of a new lower seal (25, Figure on four new bearing retainer screws (21), then
118) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, then set lightly coat the seals with OMC Gasket Sealing
the seal into the head with the extended seal lip Compound.
facing down (toward the gearcase). See Figure 103, g. Coat the threads of the screws with OMC Nut Lock
typical. threadlocking adhesive. Install screws into the two
open holes and engage the retaining ring threads. Do
b. Using seal installer (part No. 325453) or a suitable
NOT tighten the screws at this time.
mandrel, press the seal into the head. Then lubricate
the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Grease. h. Remove the guide pins from the other crankcase
head screw holes. Then install the remaining two
screws into the holes and engage the retaining ring
threads. Once all screws engage the retaining ring
threads, tighten all four screws Figure 127finger-
tight. I
I
LOWER CRANKCASE HEAD i. Evenly tighten the four screws to 95-120 in.-lb.
(10.7-13.6 N.m) in a minimum of three progressive
stages. ,
4. Assemble and install the upper crankcase head as fol-
lows:
a. Set the head in a press with its seal bore facing up
b. Coat the metal case of a new upper seal with OM
Gasket Sealing Compound, then set the seal into
head with its lip facing down.
c. Using a suitable mandrel, press the seal into
crankcase head until it is flush with its bore.
d. Lubricate the seal lip with OMC Triple Gu
Grease. Lubricate the bearing rollers with oil.
e. Lubricate two new O-rings with OMC Triple Gu
Grease, then install the O-rings into the grooves
the crankcase head.
f. Slide the crankcase head over the flywheel en
the crankshaft with the seal side of the asse
facing toward the flywheel (up).
5. Assemble the center main bearing(s) as follows:
a. Apply a coat of needle bearing assembly
around the crankshaft's center main bearing
(V4) or the crankshaft's upper center main
journal (V6 and V8 models).
b. Position the two caged needle bearing halves arou
the journal.
366 CHAPTER EIGHT
c. Position the main bearing race halves around the the connecting rod screws and thread them fully into
journal with the retaining ring groove facing the the rod.
exhaust housing (down). See Figure 128. e. Tighten each screw initially to 25-30 in.-lb. (1.69
d. Carefully align the fractured parting lines, then in- Nsm).
stall the retainer ring. Position the retainer ring to 9. Assemble the rod cap alignment fixture as follows:
cover as much of both fracture lines as possible. a. Move the flat on the knob marked Set to align with
e. Repeat this procedure for the remaining main bear- the arrow embossed on the tool's frame. Move the
ings on V6 and V8 models. adjustment knob in or out until the third ring (from
6. Position the cylinder block so that it is sitting on the the outermost end of the knob) aligns with the sur-
cylinder heads and the crankcase cover mating surface is face of the tool frame. The instruction sheet refers to
facing up. Push the pistons to the bottom of their bores, this as mark C. Then rotate the knob 180" to lock the
then position all connecting rods to one side of the crank- adjustment.
case. Use rubber bands to hold the rods against the appro- b. Install the retaining jaw labeled A and the forcing
priate side of the crankcase. jaw labeled B to the fixture frame as described by the
tool's instruction sheet.
NOTE
c. Lubricate the four precision ground comers of the
There are many things to align when install-
ing the crankshaft. Work slowly and pa- connecting rod's big end, then position the fixture
tiently. over the big end in the manner shown in Figure 130,
typical.
7. Position the crankshaft assembly over the cylinder d. Allow the stop plunger in the center of the frame to
block and slowly lower it into the block. Make sure each contact the rod cap. Then align the grooves ma-
of the following is verified: chined into the jaws with the rod cap-to-connecting
a. Rotate the center main bearing(s) as necessary to rod parting line.
align each bearing with the locating dowel in the e. Tighten the tool's forcing screw to 23 in.-lb. (2.6
cylinder block (Figure 129,typical). N.m). Verify that the stop plunger is contacting the
b. Rotate the seal rings to position the open ends facing
up as shown in Figure 107, typical.
c. Rotate the lower crankcase head to align the screw
holes, then seat the head against the cylinder block.
Install two screws (finger-tight) to hold the head in Groove toward
bottom of crankshaft
place.
d. Rotate the upper crankcase head to align the screw
holes, then seat the head against the cylinder block.
Install two screws (finger-tight) to hold the head in
place.
8. Begin installing the No. 1 cylinder connecting rod to
the crankshaftjournal as follows:
a. Grease the crankpin journal with a thick coat of
needle bearing assembly grease. Install the caged
bearing halves to the journal. If the original bearings
are being re-used, they must be installed in their
original position.
b. Pull the No. 1 cylinder rod and piston assembly up
the crankshaft as necessary to allow mating of the
rod and journal.
c. Install the matching connecting rod cap in its origi-
nal orientation. Carefully observefracture and align-
ment marks to ensure correct installation.
d. Lubricate the screw threads and underside of the
screw heads of new connecting rod screws with oil.
Then while holding the cap firmly in position, install
POWER HEAD
rod cap and that the grooves in the jaws are aligned 12. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for
with the rod's parting line. binding or unusual noise. If noted, remove the piston and
10. Loosen both rod cap screws 114 turn. Then retighten connecting rod just installed and correct the defect before
proceeding.
both screwsto apreliminarytorque of 40-60in.-lb. (4.5-6.8
N.m). Apply a final torque of 42-44 ft.-lb. (56.9-59.7 N.m) 13. Repeat Steps 9-12 for the remaining piston and con-
in a minimum of three progressive steps. necting rod assemblies.
11. Loosen the forcing screw and remove the fixture. Run
a fingernail or pencil lead over each of the four beveled
(machined) edges of the rod-to-cap joint (Figure 109,
typical). The edges must be perfectly flush with no detect-
Crankcase assembly (90" V4, V6 and V8)
I
able misalignment. If any misalignment is detected, the 1. Using an oil- and wax-free solvent, such as OMC
connecting rod must be replaced. Cleaning Solvent, acetone or lacquer thinner, clean the
cylinder block and crankcase cover mating surfaces.
3. Apply OMC Gel Seal II sealant to the mating surface
of the cylinder block. Run a continuous sealant bead along
sealant will not contaminate the bearings, labyrinth seals
or ooze excessively into the crankcase's internalchambers.
Keep the sealant approximately 114in. (6.35 mm) from the
labyrinth seal grooves and the crankshaft bearings.
4. Venfy that the crankshaft seal rings are positioned as
shown in Figure 107, then install the crankcase cover into
position on the cylinder block. Seat the cover to the block
with hand pressure.
NOTE
Before installing the taperpin, the crankcase
cover must be seated to the cylinder block
and held in place by the main bearing
screws, but without any substantial clamping
load being applied by the screws. The cover
must be able to shift slightly when the taper
pin is installed, precisely aligning the cover
to the cylinder block.
5. Install and tighten the main bearing screws finger-tight
until the cover is seated to the block. Then install the taper
pin (3, Figure 119) and seat it in its bore. Do not drive the
taper pin too tightly into its bore or it will split the cylinder
block and crankcase cover.
6. Install and finger-tighten the flange screws (4, Figure
119).
7. Tap the lower crankcase head with a soft-faced mallet
to seat it in its bore. Then do the same to the upper
crankcase head.
8. Tighten the main bearing screws evenly to 28-32 ft.-lb.
(38-43.4 N.m) in a crossing pattern starting with the center
screws and working outward. Then tighten the flange
screws in the same manner to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
9. Remove the two screws from the lower crankcase head.
Coat all of the lower crankcase head screws with OMC Nut
CHAPTER EIGHT
Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install the screws (1, Figure NOTE

127) and evenly tighten them to 72-96 in.-lb. (8.1-10.9 The shift assist switch and associated com-
N.m) on V4 and V8 models and 95-120 in.-lb. (10.7-13.6 ponents (51-55,Figure 119)are not used on
N.m) on V6 models. Do not disturb the bearing retainer V4 models.
screws.
16. Make sure the washer is installed over the shift shaft
10. Remove the two screws from the upper crankcase (49, Figure 119), then insert the shift shaft into the bush-
head. Coat all of the upper crankcase head screws with ings from the starboard side of the power head. Install the
OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Install the screws other washer over the port end of the shift shaft, then install
and evenly tighten them to 72-96 in.-lb. (8.1-10.9 N.m) on the shift bellcrank. Install and tighten the bellcrank screw
V4 and V8 models and 95-120 in.-lb. (10.7-13.6 N-m) on to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
V6 models. Do not disturb the bearing retainer screws. 17A. V4 models-Install the throttle control arm to the
11. Rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to check for starboard side of the crankcase cover. Make sure a bushing
binding or unusual noise. If binding or noise is noted, the (33, Figure 119) is installed on each side of the arm as
crankcase cover must be removed and the cause of the shown in Figure 119. Install the flat washer and locknut.
defect located and corrected before proceeding. Tighten the locknut securely.
12. V8 models-Proceed as follows: 17B. V6 and V8 models-Install the upper and lower
throttle control arms to the starboard side of the crankcase
a. Thoroughly clean the tapers of the torsion damper cover. Make sure a bushing (33, Figure 119) is installed
and the bottom of the crankshaft with solvent. Then on each side of each arm as shown in Figure 119. Secure
install the torsion damper onto the crankshaft. each arm with a flat washer and locknut. Tighten both
b. Coat the threads of the nut with OMC Gasket Sealing locknuts securely.
Compound. Install the nut onto the crankshaft 18. Install the intake manifold(s) and reed blocks, carbu-
threads, making sure the washer-faced side of the nut retors, V R O ~pump unit(s), fuel primer solenoid and all
is against the damper. related fuel, primer and external recirculation lines. See
c. Insert holding fixture (part No. 314438) into the Chapter Six and Chapter Eleven.
crankshaft splines. Attach a torque wrench (with a a. V6 and V8 models-Install the fuel vacuum switch
suitable socket) to the holding fixture. and its vacuum line along with all of the other fuel
components.
d. Hold the nut with a 1-314 in. wrench and torque the
b. V8 models-Install the fuel enrichmentvalve and its
crankshaft to 148-152ft.-lb. (200.7-206.1N-m). Re-
vacuum line along with all of the other fuel compo-
move the tools when finished.
nents.
13. Install the thermostats and water blow-off valve (V6 19. Install the entire ignition and electrical system and all
models) as described later in this chapter. related mounting brackets as described in Chapter Seven.
This includes the stator assembly, sensor coil, power pack,
NOTE ignition coils, voltage regulator and the wiring harness. On
The engine temperature switch with the models with trim/tilt. also install the trim/tilt relay junction
whitehlack lead must be installed in the port box (or relay bracket) and associated harness. Secure all
cylinder head.
leads and harnesses with the original clamps or new tie-
straps.
14. Coat the outer diameter of both engine temperature 20. Install the flywheel and electric starter as described in
switch bodies with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Do Chapter Seven.
not coat the metal face of the switches. Install each switch 21. Install the power head as described previously in this
into its cylinder head bore and secure it in place by tight- chapter.
ening the plastic retaining nut securely. See Figure 116,
typical.
REED VALVES
NOTE
Grease all shiftand throttle linkage bushings Reed valves control the passage of airlfuel mixture into
and components with OMC Triple Guard the crankcase by opening and closing as crankcase pres-
Grease. sure changes. Reed valves are mounted to a reed plate (or
block) and are positioned between the intake manifold and
15. Install the port and starboard shift shaft bushings (48, crankcase cover. Refer to Chapter Six for full system
Figure 119) into the bosses on the crankcase cover. descriptions and all service procedures.
POWER HEAD
THERMOSTATS AND Consider installing new thermostats and replacing all

WATER BLOW-OFF VALVE seals, gaskets and diaphragms (as equipped)in the thermo-
stat and blow-off valve housing(s) during any major disas-
The function of the thermostats is to regulate the water sembly or repair.
leaving the power head. When the water temperature
reaches approximately 140" (60" C), the thermostats will
open, allowing heated water to exit the cylinder block. As Removal/Installation
the heated water leaves the block, it is replaced by cold (90"V4 Cross-Flow Models)
water from the water pump. Correct thermostat operation
is vital to engine break-in, spark plug life, smooth consis- The thermostats and relief valves are mounted in a
tent idling and maximum performance and durability. separate housing at the rear of the adaptor plate (A, Figure
131). Hoses connect each cylinder head to the housing. The
Two thermostat assemblies (one for each cylinder head)
thermostat and relief valve on the starboard side of the
are used on all models. Additionally, all models incorpo-
housing control the water exiting the starboard cylinder
rate a relief (blow-off) function controlled by water pres-
head. The thermostat and relief valve on the port side of
sure in the block. The relief valve function is integrated
the housing control the water exiting the port cylinder
into the thermostat housing.
head.
The relief function is controlled by engine speed. At
To service the thermostats or relief valves, refer to Fig-
higher engine speeds, water pump pressure against the
ure 131and Figure 132 and proceed as follows:
relief valve will be sufficient to force the thermostat off of
its seat or (open the relief valve). This creates an additional 1. Remove the clamps securing the hoses (B, Figure 131)
to the cover. Carefully remove each hose from the cover.
exit for the hot water in the cylinder block, increasing the
If either hose is damaged, replace it.
flow of cold water into the cylinder block from the water
2. Remove the three screws securing the assembly to the
pump. The net result is a lowering of the engine operating
adaptor plate. Carefully separate the assembly from the
temperature at high engine speeds.
adaptor plate. Then sep&atLthevalve body from the cover.
The benefit of this system is that the block stays warm Remove the springs, thennostats and relief valves. See
enough at low speeds (under thermostat control) to main- Figure 132.
tain smooth idle and keep the plugs from fouling, but cool 3. Remove and discard the relief valve grommets and the
enough at high speeds to prevent preignition and detona- thermostat, cover and valve body gaskets. Do not damage
tion. the adaptor plate, cover or valve body sealing surfaces
The 90" V6 loop-charged models incorporate an addi- when removing the gaskets.
tional blow-off valve mounted directly to the rear of the 4. Refer to Thermostat Assemblies in the Power Head
cylinder block. When open, this valve allows additional Cleaning and Inspection section (located in this chapter)
water to flow from the cylinder block to the back side of and clean and inspect the thermostat components.
each thermostat. 5. To install the thermostat and relief valves, begin by
installing new grommets into the valve body. Then install
NOTE the relief valves into the grommets. The smaller, shorter
On 90" V4 cross-flow models, the t h e m -
stats and relief valves are mounted to the side of the valves must face away from the grommets. See
rear of the adaptorplate. See A, Figure 131. Figure 132.
6. Position each thermostat into the valve body, using new
-gaskets. The temperature sensing- end of the thermostat
must face into the valve body.
7. Insert the relief valve springs into the their bores in the
adaptor housing.
8. Coat new valve body and cover gaskets with OMC
Gasket Sealing Compound. Then coat the threads of the
three screws with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive.
9. Install the cover to the valve body using the new gasket.
Insert the three screws through the cover (and valve body).
Then install the valve body gasket over the three screws
and slide it up against the valve body.
10. Hold the assembly up to the adaptor housing. Make
sure the relief valves enter the relief springs, then seat the
' 370 CHAPTER EIGHT

I
assembly to the adaptor housing. While holding the assem- Removal/Installation

bly tightly against the adaptor housing, evenly tighten the (60" V4 and V6 Models)
three screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m).
11. Reconnect the hoses from the cylinder heads to the The thermostat assemblies on these models incorporates
fittings on the cover. Secure each hose with a worm clamp. the relief valve function. A thermostat and relief valve
Tighten both clamps securely. assembly is mounted at the top of each cylinder head.
12. Refer to Engine Temperature and Overheating in Each thermostat is contained in a cartridge assembly that
Chapter Three, and verify that the engine operating tem- is held against a seal in the cylinder head by a water
perature is correct. pressure relief spring. At higher speeds, the increased
THERMOSTAT AND RELIEF VALVES

(90° V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS)
1. Cover screw
2. Cover
3. Cover gasket
4. Valve body
5. Rellef valve grommets
6. Relief valves
7. Valve body gasket
8. Thermostat gaskets
9. Thermostats
10. Relief valve springs
11. Power head base gasket
12. Adaptor plate
POWER HEAD
water pressure will force the entire thermostat cartridge off 3. Inspect the seal in each cylinder head. See Figure 135.
its seat, bypassing the thermostat and increasing water If necessary, remove the cylinder head(s) as described in
flow. At lower speeds, the spring holds the thermostat this chapter and replace the seal(s).
cartridge against the cylinder head seal, allowing the 4. Refer to Thermostat Assemblies in the Power Head
thermostat to control the water temperature. Cleaning andZnspection section (in this chapter) and clean
and inspect the thermostat components.
NOTE 5. To install the thermostat and relief valve assemblies,
The seal that the thermostat assembly seats begin by installing a new O-ring onto each thermostat
against is mounted to the cylinder block side cover. Lubricate the O-rings with OMC Triple Guard
of the cylinder head. lfthe seal is damaged, Grease.
the appropriate cylinder head will have to be 6. Insert each thermostat cartridge into its cylinder head.
removed to change the seal. The metal end of the cartridge must face away from the
cylinder head. See Figure 134.
To service the thermostat and relief valve assemblies, 7. Position the spring over each thermostat cartridge. Then
proceed as follows: install the covers over the springs and thread each cover
into its cylinder head. Tighten the covers to 120-144in.-lb.
1. Unscrew each thermostat cover. Remove and discard (13.6-16.3 N.m). See Figure 133.
each cover's O-ring. See Figure 133. 8. Refer to Engine Temperatureand Overheating in Chap-
2. Remove the spring and the thermostat cartridge assem- ter Three and verify that the engine operating temperature
bly (Figure 134)from each cylinder head. is correct.
RemovaVInstallation
(90"V4 and VS Loop-Charged Models)
These models use thermostat and relief valve assemblies

containing a vernatherm. A vernatherm is a temperature
sensitive device that moves a plunger in or out, based on
the water temperature around its sensing pellet. The
plunger controls whether the vernatherm is seated (closed)
against the diaphragm or pushed away (open) from the
diaphragm.
At higher engine speeds, the increased water pressure
will push the diaphragm away from the vernatherm, allow-
ing increased cooling water flow. At lower speeds, a spring
keeps the diaphragm seated to the vernatherm, allowing
the vernatherm to control the water temperature.
372 CHAPTER EIGHT
To service the thermostat and relief valve assemblies, 2. Remove the large washer, diaphragm, vernatherm,
refer to Figure 136 and proceed as follows: small spring and plastic cup housing from the cylinder
head. Separate the components.
NOTE 3. Refer to Thermostat Assemblies in the Power Head
The relief (large) spring pushes against the Cleaning and Inspection section (in this chapter) and clean
diaphragm via a cupped washel: The cupped and inspect the thermostat components. The cupped
washer must be attached to the diaphragm.
If it is loose or has separated, replace the washer must be attached (glued) to the diaphragm. If not,
diaphragm. replace the diaphragm.
4. To install the thermostat components, begin by making
1. Remove the four screws securing the thermostat cover sure the plunger is installed in the vernatherm. The rounded
to the cylinder head. Remove the cover and large spring. tip of the plunger must be exposed and facing away from
Then remove and discard the cover gasket. the vernatherm.
@ THERMOSTAT (90"V4 AND V 8 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
- -- ---- - -- -
r---- -J
I
I
L----
6 7 9
1. Screw
2. Thermostat cover
3. Gasket
4. Washer
5. Relief spring
6. Diaphragm
7. Vernatherm
8. Small spring
9. Plastic cup
10. Cylinder head
POWER HEAD 373
5. Install the small spring over the pellet end of the ver- 3. Carefully pry the seat (13, Figure 119) from the hous-
natherm and seat it against the vernatherm's shoulder. ing. Discard the seal. Then remove the valve (14, Figure
6. Insert the vernatherm and small spring assembly into 119) and spring (15) from the housing.
the plastic cup. The spring must enter the cup first. 4. Remove the four screws securing the thermostat hous-
7. Place the diaphragm over the vernatherm and cup. The ing to the top of each cylinder head. Carefully pull each
raised rib on the diaphragm must face out. housing from the cylinder head, then remove and discard
8. Place the large washer over the raised rib on the dia- the housing seal. Separate the spring from each housing.
phragm. Then install the assembly into the cylinder head See 25-28, Figure 119.
and seat it in its bore. 5. Remove the thermostat, seal and plastic sleeve from
each cylinder head. Discard the seals.
NOTE 6. Refer to Thermostat Assemblies in the Power Head
If the relief spring is tapered, install the Cleaning andZnspection section (in this chapter) and clean
larger end info the thermostat covel: and inspect the thermostat and blow-off valve components.
7. To assemble the thermostat assemblies and the blow-off
9. Lightly coat a new cover gasket with OMC Gasket
valve, begin by inserting the plastic sleeve (22, Figure 119)
Sealing Compound. Position the gasket onto the cover.
into each cylinder head. Then install anew thermostat seal,
Install the relief (large) spring into the cover's bore and seat
followed by the thermostat into each cylinder head. The
it in position. Carefully install the cover to the cylinder
temperature sensing end of the thermostat must face into
head, making sure the spring enters the cupped washer
the cylinder head.
glued to the diaphragm and that the large washer is not
8. Install the spring onto the boss in each thermostat
displaced.
housing. Then position a new seal onto each housing.
10. Lightly coat the threads of each cover's four screws
9. Install the housing assemblies onto each cylinder head,
with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install and evenly
making sure the spring fits each thermostat's shoulder.
tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
10. Lightly coat the threads of each cover's four screws
11. Refer to Chapter Three, Engine Temperature and
with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install and evenly
Overheating in Chapter Three and venfy that the engine
tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m).
operating temperature is correct.
11. Assemble the blow-off valve as follows:
a. Install the spring into the valve housing. Then posi-
Removal/Installation tion the valve over the spring. The pointed end of the
(900V6 [Loop-Charged]Models) valve must face out of the housing.
b. Hold the spring and valve compressed and push a
These models are equipped with a thermostat and relief new seal into the housing. The side of the seal
valve spring in each cylinder head's thermostat housing. marked TO CYL. HEAD must face into the valve
An additional relief (blow-off) valve is mounted near the housing (against the valve). I
top of the cylinder block. To service the thermostat assem- c. Position the valve assembly to the power head.
blies and the blow-off valve, refer to Figure 119 and Lightly coat the threads of the cover screws with
proceed as follows: OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install and evenly
1. Remove the tie-strap securing the hose(s) to each tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
thermostat housing and the blow-off valve housing. Care- 12. Reconnect the hoses to the thermostat and blow-off
fully remove the hose(s) from each housing. If any of the valve housings. Secure each connection with a new tie-
hoses are damaged, replace them at this time. strap.
2. Remove the two screws securing the blow-off valve 13. Refer to Engine Temperature and Overheating in
housing (16, Figure 119) to the cylinder block. Remove Chapter Three and venfy that the engine operating tey-
the housing from the block. perature is correct.
!
Tables 1-8 are on the following pages.
CHAPTER EIGHT
Table 1 ENGINE FAMILY IDENTIFICATION

Cylinder configuration1 Displacement
Model (induction type) Cu. in. (cc)
65 jet 90" V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632)
80 jet (1996-1997) 90" V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632)
80 jet (1998-2002) 60" V4 (loop-charged) 105.4 (1727)
85 Back Troller 90" V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632)
88,90,112 and 115 Special 90" V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632)
90 and 115 hp (1995-1996)' 90" V4 (cross-flow) 99.6 (1632)
90 and 115 hp (1995-2002)' 60" V4 (loop-charged) 105.4 (1727)
130 hp 90" V4 (loop-charged) 122.0 (2000)
150 hp and 105 jet 60" V6 (loop-charged) 158.4 (2589)
175 hp 60" V6 (loop-charged) 158.4 (2589)
200 and 225 hp (1995-2000) 90" V6 (loop-charged) 183.2 (3000)
200 and 225 hp (2001-2002)' 90" V6 (loop-charged) 200.0 (3279)
250 and 300 hp (1995-2000) 90" V8 (loop-charged) 244.0 (4000)
250 hp (2001-2002) 90" V6 (loop-charged) 200.0 (3279)
1. Ninety and 115 hp models were produced in both 60" and 90" versions in 1995 and 1996).
2. Evinrude brand only. Johnson brand uses the 183.2 Cu. in. (3000 cc) displacement.
Table 2 CONNECTING ROD SCREW TORQUE VALUES

Outboard model Torque specification
90" V4 (cross-flow)
90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged)
Table 3 CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE VALUES

Outboard model Torque specification 1
90" V4 (cross-flow)
90" V6 (lwp-charged)
Table 4 POWER HEAD TORQUE VALUES

I Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. Nam I
Crankcase cover
90" V4 (cross-flow)
Large (main bearing) screws
Small (outer flange) screws
60" V4 and V6
90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged)
Crankshaft upper and lower heads
90" V4 (cross-flow) 10-12
90" V6 (loop-charged) -
90" V4 and V8 (loop-charged) -
Cylinder head water cover -
Exhaust cover -
(continued)
POWER HEAD 375
cover screws
90" V4 (cross-flow) - 16-18 21.7-24.4

90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) 216-240 18-20 24.4-27.1
60" V4 and V6
Large screws 216-240 18-20 24.4-27.1
Small screws 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
Adaptor plate to power head
90" V4 (C~OSS-flow) 120-144 10-12 13.6-16.3
90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) 144-168 12-14 16.3-21.7
Upper motor mount (60 models)
Mount to power head 180-240 15-20 20.3-27.1
Mount to steering arm - 100105 135.6-142.4
Power steering system
Oil filter
Pump and reservoir - 30-35 40.7-47.5
Flywheel pulley 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
Tensioner and pivot screws 108-132 -
Spark plug(s) 216-252 18-21 24.4-28.5
Torsional damper - 148-152 200.7-206.1
Thermostat cover
90" models 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
60" models 120-144 10-12 13.6-16.3
Table 5 POWER HEAD DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS

I Component Specification-in. (mm) I
Crankshaft
Crankpin diameter
90" V4 (C~OSS-flow) 1.3757-1.3762 (34.943-34.955)
60" V4 and V6 1.3757-1.3762 (34.943-34.955)
90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) 1.4995-1.5000 (38.087-38.1 00)
Center main journal diameter
Top main journal diameter
90" V4, V6 and V8 models 1.6199-1.6204 (41.145-41.158)
60" V4 and V6 models 2.1 870-2.1 875 (55.550-55.563)
Bottom main journal diameter
90" V4 (cross-flow) 1.3779-1.3784 (34.999-35.01 1)
60" V4 and V6 1.5747-1.5752 (39.997-40.01 0)
90" V4, V6 and V8 (loop-charged) 1.5747-1.5752 (39.997-40.01 0)
Sealing ring minimum thickness 0.154 (3.912)
Cylinder bore
Standard bore diameter
90" V4 (cross-flow) 3.4995-3.5005 (88.887-88.913)
90" V4 (loop-charged) 3.6845-3.6855 (93.586-93.61 2)
60" V4 and V6 3.5995-3.6005 (91.427-91.453)
90' V6 (1995-2000) 3.6845-3.6855 (93.586-93.612)
90° V6 (2001-2002)' 3.8535-3.8545 (97.879-97.904)'
90" V8 3.6845-3.6855 (93.586-93.61 2)
Maximum cylinder out-of-round 0.004 (0.102)
Maximum cylinder taper 0.002 (0.051)
Maximum cylinder wear 0.004 (0.102)
(continued)
376 CHAPTER EIGHT
Table 5 POWER HEAD DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Component Specification-in. (mm)
Maximum cylinder head warpage
Carburetor equipped models2 0.004 (0.102)'
Fict fuel injection (FFI) models' 0.003 (0.076)=
Piston
Piston to cylinder clearance See text
Piston skirt diameter
90" V4 (cross-flow) 3.4930-3.4950 (88.722-88.773)
90" V4 (loop-charged) 3.6803-3.6823 (93.480-93.530)
60" V4 and V6 See text
90" V6 (1995-2000) 3.6803-3.6823 (93.480-93.530)
90" ~6 (2001-2002)~ 3.8493-3.813 (97.772-97.823)'
90" V8 3.6803-3.6823 (93.480-93.530)
Maximum piston out-of-round
90" models 0.004 (0.1 02)
60" models 0.003 (0.076)
Piston ring end gap
90" models 0.01 9-0.031 (0.483-0.787)
60" models 0.01 1-0.023 (0.279-0.584)
Piston ring side clearance (rectangular rings) 0.004 (0.102)
1. Evinrude brand only. For Johnson brand use 3.6845-3.6855 in. (93.586-93.612 mm).
2. Maximum amount of warpage measured from the upper to lower ends of the mating surface. Resurface or replace the cyl-
inder head if the warpage exceeds the specification.
3 Maximum amount of warpage measured at any 1 in. (25.4 mm) span of the mating surface. Replace the cylinder head if the
warpage exceeds the maximum specification.
4. Evinrude brand only. For Johnson brand use 3.6803-3.6823 in. (93.480-93.530 mm).
Table 6 MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED SPECIAL TOOLS

Description Part number Application
Retaining ring pliers All
Centering cone V8 models
Bearing installer 90 V4,6 and 82
Crankshaft holding fixture V8 models
Wrist pin clip installer
Driver handle 90" ~4'160V4 and ~ 6 '
Forcing cone 90" ~4'160V4 and ~ 6 '
Seal installer 90 models
Wrist pin clip pliers All
Piston pin remover 90" ~ 4 '
Seal installer 90" v4'
Piston cradle All
Ring compressor (standard) 90" v4'
Ring compressor (oversize) 90" v4'
Connecting rod screw socket All
Wrist pin clip installer (forcing cone) 90" v4-va2
Ring compressor (standard) 90' ~ 4 4 8 '
Ring compressor (oversize) 90" v4-va2
Ring compressor (oversize) 60" V4 and ~ 6 '
Ring compressor (standard) 60" V4 and ~6~
Bearing installation tool 90" ~4'160V4 and ~6~
Bearing installation tool 90° v4-va2
Bearing and sleeve installer 60" V4 and ~6~
Bearing and sleeve installer 90' ~ 4 '
Bearing and sleeve installer 90" V4 and ~ 6 '
Universal puller kit 90" models
Guide pin set 90" models
Slide hammer All (except V8)
(continued)
POWER HEAD
Table 6 MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED SPECIAL TOOLS (Continued)

Description Part number Application
Piston pin remover/installer 90' v 4 - ~ 8 '
Lilting fixture 90" models
Connecting rod alignment fixture All
Puller bridge and threaded rod 90" ~ 4 '
Slide hammer All
Large puller jaws All
Cylinder bore gauge fixture All
Power steering belt tension gauge Power steering models
1. Cross-flow models.
2. Loop-charged models.
Table 7 DESIGN FEATURE CODES

Code Definition
C Counter-rotation
E Electric start
G Special styling
H Special styling
J Jet drive
K Tiller handle, electric start
M Manual tilt, electric start
MS Special styling, manual tilt, electric start
N Counter-rotation
P Power steering
Q Trim and tilt, electric start
S Special styling
ST Special styling, trim and tilt
T Trim and tilt, electric start
lT Tiller handle, trim and tilt, BackTroller model

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Nine
Lower Gearcase and JetDrive Units
This section provides lower gearcase removal, installa- GEARCASE IDENTIFICATION

tion, rebuilding and resealing procedures for all gearcases
used on 85-300 hp models. Jet drive units are covered in a Three different gearcase sizes are covered in this chapter.
separate section at the end of this chapter. While all are similar in design, there are enough differ-
The lower gearcase can be removed from the outboard ences in service procedures that one must be sure which
motor without removing the entire outboard from the boat. gearcase they are working on. For the sake of simplicity,
Exploded illustrations of each lower gearcase are located the gearcases are only referred to by the type of engine they
in the appropriate Disassembly section and are helpful were originally designed to fit.
references for many service procedures. Each gearcase series can be quickly identified by meas-
This chapter is arranged in a normal disassemblylassem- uring the maximum outside diameter of the bullet (tor-
bly sequence.When only a partial repair is required, follow pedo) at the rear of the gearcase housing.
the procedure to the point where the faulty parts can be
replaced, then continue ahead to reassemble the unit. V4 series gearcase-This gearcase measures 4-118 in.
(105 mm) diameter. The propshaft bearing carrier is held
Table 1 lists the factory gear ratio and approximate
in place by retaining rings and four sealed screws on 90"
lubricant capacity for each engine model. Table 2 lists
cross-flow models and is held in place by two tabbed
torque values for propeller-driven models. Table 3 lists
washers and screws on 60" models. These gearcases are
gearcase specifications, and Table 4 lists all manufacturer
only available in standard rotation. This series gearcase is
recommended tools. Table 5 lists torque specifications for
used on all V4s except the 90" V4 loop-charged (130 hp)
jet drive models. All Tables are located at the end of the
chapter. Common engine specifications, recommended lu- models.
bricants, sealants and adhesives, and standard torque values V6 series gearcase-This gearcase measures 4-518 in.
are listed in the Quick Reference Data section, located at (117.5mm) diameter. The propshaft bearing carrier is held
the front of this manual. in place by two tabbed washers and screws on all models.
Gearcase work stands and holding fixtures are available Tins gearcase is manufactured in standard and counter-ro-
from specialty shops, marine suppliers or marine and in- tation models. This series gearcase is used on V6 models,
dustrial product distributors. 90" V4 loop-charged (130 hp) models and the extra-long
shaft (25 in. [635 mm]) 60" V4 (loop-charged)models.
CAUTION
Make sure that the work bench, work station, V8 series gearcase-This gearcase measures 5-118 in.
gearcase stand or holdingjixture is of sufi- (130 mm) diameter. The propshaft bearing carrier is held
cient capacity to support the size and weight in place by two tabbed washers and screws on all models.
of the gearcase. This gearcase is manufactured in standard and counter-ro-
LOWER GEARCASE AND .JET DRIVE UNITS 379
tation models. This series gearcase is used only on V8

models.
GEARCASE OPERATION
A drive shaft transfers engine torque from the engine

crankshaft to the lower gearcase. A pinion (drive) gear on
the drive shaft is in constantmesh with forward and reverse
(driven) gears in the lower gearcase housing. These gears
are bevel cut to change the vertical power flow into the
horizontal flow required by the propeller shaft. All models
use spiral-bevel gears for smooth, quiet operation.
All models have full shifting capability. A sliding clutch
(called a clutch dog), splined to the propeller shaft and
actuated by a shift plunger and shift bellcrank (via a
No rotation vertically traveling shift shaft), directly engages lugs on
Clutch dog (centered) the face of forward and reverse gears. Figure 1 shows the
simplified arrangement of the internal components in such
Forward a gearcase.
Since these gearcases use direct mechanical means of
shifting the gearcase, they must only be shifted at idle
speed. Shifting at higher speeds will cause severe shock
loads to the gears and shift system components, resulting
in premature failure.
All lower gearcases incorporate a water pump to supply
cooling water to the power head. The water pump is driven
by the drive shaft and the gearcase must be removed from
the exhaust housing to service the water pump. Water
pump removal and installation procedures are covered in
this chapter.
All gearcases covered in this manual use a precisely
located pinion gear. The pinion gear is precisely located in
the gear housing by the use of very thin metal spacers
Reverse called shims. The forward and reverse gears are located
during the manufacturing process and are properly posi-
tioned as long as the gearcase is correctly assembled and
the internal parts are not excessively worn.
Verify the shimming anytime the drive shaft and pinion
gear are removed from the gearcase, if any of the drive
shaft components are replaced (such as the drive shaft,
drive shaft bearing housing, thrust washer(s), thrust bear-
ing and pinion gear).
Determining the correct quantity of pinion gear shims
requires shim fixture (part No. 393185) and the appropri-
ate gauge bar and adaptor bushing. There are no checks of
the shimming process after assembly.
(disengaged) Prop shaft While other manufacturers check the gear lash after
(counterclockwise)
assembly, OMC relies on the use of the shim fixture and
the manufacturing process to ensure the gears are correctly
meshed. For reference, gear lash is the measurement of the
clearance between a tooth on the pinion gear and two teeth
CHAPTER NINE
on the forward or reverse gear. This is also referred to as the correct wide-open throttle speed, which will lead to
gear backlash. power head failure.
If the pinion gear is positioned too high in the gearcase No matter the gear ratio being used, it is imperative that
bore, the gear teeth will be too far apart. This will cause the engine operate within the recommended speed range
excessive gear noise and a reduction in gear strength and at wide-open throttle. Change the propeller(s) pitch and
durability, since the gear teeth are not sufficiently overlap- diameter as necessary to adjust engine speed. Increasing
ping. the pitch or diameter increases the load on the engine and
If the pinion gear is positioned too low in the gearcase reduces the wide-open throttle speed. Decreasing the pitch
bore, the gear teeth will be too close together. This will or diameter reduces the load on the engine and will in-
result in gearcase failure since there will not be enough crease the wide-open throttle speed. Use an accurate shop
clearance to maintain a film of lubricant. Heat expansion tachometer for wide-open throttle speed verification.
will only compound the problem.
HIGH ALTITUDE OPERATION

GEAR RATIO
The gear ratio refers to the amount of gear reduction With the exception of the standard-rotationV6 gearcase
(covered in the next section), OMC does not offer high
between the crankshaft and the propeller provided by the
lower gearcase. Gear ratios range from as low as 2.25: 1 to altitude gear sets for the engines covered in this manual.
The factory gear set is the only recommended gear ratio
as high as 1.76:l. A gear ratio of 2.25: 1 means that the
for all operating environments. At higher altitudes, it will
crankshaft turns 2.25 times for every one turn of the
be necessary to change the propeller pitch and diameter as
propeller shaft. Higher number ratios are easier for the
necessary to compensatefor the loss of horsepower caused
engine to turn. Table 1lists the factory gear ratio and tooth
by the thinner (less dense) air. The engine must operate
count for all models.
within its recommended speed range at wide-open throttle.
While OMC does not generally offer or recommend
different gear ratio sets for the engines covered in this If the boat is returned to lower altitudes, the original
manual, some gear sets of different ratios will cross-fit. propeller must be reinstalled to prevent the engine from
Gear sets are also available from aftermarket suppliers. over-rewing as the engine's output increases back to its
normal rated horsepower from the denser air.
If the gear ratio is suspected as being incorrect, the gear
ratio can be determined by two different methods. The first At high altitudes, the less dense air also affects the
method does not require removing the gearcase. Mark the engine's carburetor calibration, causing the engine's
flywheel and a propeller blade for counting purposes. airlfuel mixture to become richer. Richer mixtures will
Manually shift the gearcase into FORWARD gear. While cause the engine to produce less horsepower and lead to
counting, turn the flywheel in the normal direction of fouled spark plugs, reduced fuel economy and accelerated
rotation (clockwise as viewed fromthe top of the flywheel) carbon build-up in the combustion chamber.
until the propeller shaft makes exactly 10turns. Divide the All OMC motors come from the factory calibrated to
number of flywheel rotations counted by 10 and compare operate efficiently between sea level and 3000 ft. (914 m).
the result with the list of gear ratios in Table 1.Round the It may be necessary to rejet the carburetor at altitudes
result to the nearest ratio listed. between 3000-6000 ft. (914-1829 m), but is required at
The second method of determining gear ratio involves altitudes of 6000 ft. (1829 m) or higher. Refer to Chapter
counting the actual number of teeth on the gears. This Six for additional high altitude information.
method requires at least partial disassembly of the gear-
case. To determine the gear ratio, divide the driven gear CAUTION
tooth count by the drive gear tooth count. I f an engine has been rejetted for high alti-
For example, on a gearcase with a 12:27 (drive-to- tude, it must be rejetted back to the standard
driven) tooth count, divide 27 (driven) by 12 (drive) = 2.25 main jet(s) before operating at low altitude.
ratio. I f it is not, serious power head damage will
occur from the engine operating on an
It is very important that the engine be operated with the air/fel mixture that is too lean. To prevent
factory recommended gear ratio. Running the engine with an overly lean mixture, always rejet the car-
an incorrect gear ratio can cause poor performance, poor buretor(~) for the lowest anticipated altitude
fuel economy and make it difficult or impossible to obtain of engine use.
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIVE UNITS 381
High Altitude Gear Set high altitude. Change back to the original
(V6 Series Standard-RotationGearcase) propeller when the boat is returned to its
normal altitude.
A hlgh altitude gear ratio set (part No. 438493) is
available for the standard-rotation V6 series gearcase.
Normally, changing the carburetor jets provides satisfac- COUNTER-ROTATION GEARCASES
tory operation for the average operator. However, under (TWIN ENGINE APPLICATIONS)
certain circumstances (such as operation in extremelyhigh
altitudes or marginally powered boats), it may prove bene- All standard-rotation gearcases rotate the propeller
ficial to combine rejetting the carburetors with a change in clockwise as viewed from the rear of the gearcase when in
gear ratio. FORWARD gear. Counter-rotation gearcases will rotate
Gear set (part No. 438493) reduces the gear ratio from the propeller counterclockwise as viewed from the rear of
the standard 90" V6 (loop-charged) gear ratio of 1.86:1 to the gearcase when in FORWARD gear.
2:1, increasing the torque output from the engine. The Counter-rotation gearcases are available as standard
propeller will most likely also have to be changed to equipment on selected 130 hp (extra-long shaft models)
maintain the recommended wide-open-throttle speed V6 and V8 models. Running two outboard motors with
range. counter-rotatingpropellers reduces steering torque, is gen-
If the boat is returned to lower altitudes, it is recom- erally more efficient and reduces torque roll (the tendency
mended that the gear ratio be changed back to the factory of a boat to lean to one side under way).
recommended ratio and the wide-open-throttle speed be
checked and adjusted with propeller changes as necessary. CAUTION
Counter-rotation gearcases are not recom-
NOTE mended for single engine applications.
If the boat is being operated in a high-alti-
tude environment temporarily (such as a va- In a normal twin outboard application, the starboard
cation trip), it is recommended that only the motor uses a standard-rotation gearcase, while the port
propeller be changed to achieve the correct motor uses a counter-rotationgearcase. The propellers turn
wide-open-throttle speed during the stay at outward (away from each other) as shown in Figure 2.
CHAPTER NINE
This generally provides the most stable and efficient ride gauge be installed on each engine. Monitor the gauges
as the propeller blade surface area on the outside half of while operating the boat under various conditions speeds,
each gearcase is pushing downward, providing a wider turns and trim angles. If one engine displays a marked drop
stance that tends to lift and stabilize the hull. in water pressure over the other engine in any normal
With some types of hull designs, the boat manufacturer operating condition, the gearcases are not correctly
may determine that it is better to turn the propellers inward aligned.
(toward each other). In this case, the starboard motor will
use the counter-rotation gearcase and the port engine will
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
use the standard-rotation gearcase. If in doubt as to the
correct setup for your hull, contact the boat manufacturer. When working on a gearcase, there are several proce-
dures to keep in mind that will make your work easier,
Twin Engine Alignment faster and more accurate.
1. Never use elastic locknuts more than twice. It is a good
When two engines are mounted on a single boat, they practice to replace such nuts each time they are removed.
must be connected by a special link called a tie bar. The Never use an elastic locknut that can be turned without the
tie bar must be adjusted to correctly align the centerlines aid of a wrench.
of each motor's gearcase to each other. 2. Use special tools where noted. Table 4 lists all manu-
Failure to correctly align the gearcases can result in facturer-recommendedspecial tools. The use of makeshift
tools can damage components and cause serious personal
performance loss, engine overheating (due to incorrect
injury.
water flow past the water intake screens), propeller venti-
lation and poor handling qualities.
To perform this adjustment,position the engines straight
ahead and adjust the trim angle until both engines' antiven-
tilation plates are parallel with the bottom of the hull. Then
measure the distance between the leading edges of both
gearcases (A, Figure 3) and the distance between the
propshaft centerlines (B).
If the leading edge measurement is less than the prop-
Hull
shaft centerline measurement, the gearcases are said to be
toed-in (Figure 3). I f the leading edge measurement is
more than the propshaft centerline measurement,the gear-
cases are said to be toed-out (Figure 4). ,
\
,
Port Starboard
I
For most applications (engines mounted directly to the gearcase 1 \ gearcase
transom), the gearcase centerlines must be adjusted to
provide a small amount of toe-in (approximately 114-314
in. [6.35-19.05 mm]). See Figure 3. However, in some
cases (such as engines mounted on set-back plates or
transom brackets and unique hull designs), the centerlines
must be parallel or slightly toed-out (Figure 4). On factory
installations, the boat manufacturer can provide you with
the correct amount of toe-in or toe-out for your hull. Make
sure that the tie bar hardware is securely tightened after all
adjustments are complete. /
lMUt /
I
J
If no specification can be obtained, the correct adjust- Hull
ment must be obtained through trial and error. When
correctly aligned, the boat will operate at peak perform-
ance, propeller ventilation in turns and at high trim angles
will be minimized, the hull will track a straight path and
the engines will receive adequate cooling water.
To determine if the engines are receiving adequate cool-
/\
Port
gearcase
1
I
!\
/ Starboard
gearcase
ing water, it is highly recommended that a water pressure
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIVE UNITS
3. Use the appropriate fixtures to hold gearcase housings pinion gear's location. Incorrectly shimming a gearcase
whenever possible. A vise with protective jaws must be can cause failure of the gearcase assembly.
used to hold smaller housings or individual components. 9. Work in an area with good lighting and sufficient space
If protective jaws are not available, insert blocks of wood for component storage. Keep an ample number of clean
or similar padding on each side of the housing or compo- containers available for parts storage. When not being
nent before clamping in a vise. worked on, cover parts and assemblies with clean shop
4. Remove and install pressed-on parts with an appropri- towels or plastic bags.
ate mandrel, support and press. Do not attempt to pry or
hammer press-fit components on or off. CAUTION
Always match a replacementfastener to the
5. Refer to Table 2 for torque values and the Quick original. Do not run a tap or thread chaser
Reference Data section for standard torque values. Proper into a hole (or over a bolt) without Jirst
torque is essential to ensure long life and satisfactory verifying the thread size and pitch. Check all
service from gearcase components. threaded holes for stainless steel locking
6. To help reduce corrosion, especially in saltwater areas, thread inserts. See Fasteners and Torque in
apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to all external Chapter Eight. Never run a tap or thread
surfaces of bearing carriers, housing mating surfaces and chaser into a hole equipped with a thread
fasteners, if no other sealant, adhesive or lubricant is insert.
recommended. Do not apply sealing compound where it
10. Whenever a threadlocking adhesive is specified, al-
can get into gears or bearings.
ways clean the surface to be sealed (or threads to be
7. Discard all O-rings, seals and gaskets during disassembly. secured) with OMC Locquic Primer. Locquic Primer
8. These gearcases use a precision-shimmed pinion gear. cleans and primes the surface and ensures a quick secure
Tag all shims with the thickness of each shim as it is bond by leaving a thin film of catalyst on the surface. The
removed from the gearcase. Shims are reusable as long as primer must be allowed to air dry, as blow drying will
they are not damaged or corroded. Follow shimming in- remove the catalyst.
structions closely and carefully. The shims control the
CORROSION CONTROL I
Sacrificial zinc or aluminum anodes are standard equip-

ment on all models. The anodes must have good electrical
continuity to ground or they will not function. Anodes must
not be painted or coated with any material. OMC Genuine
Parts offers accessory anode kits for additional corrosion
protection. See your Evinrude/Johnson dealership.
Anode Locations ~
On manual tilt models and models equipped with the
conventional trim and tilt system (Chapter Ten), an anode
is mounted directly to the bottom of each stem bracket. On
models equipped with the FasTrak trim and tilt system
(Chapter Ten), one large anode is mounted between the
very bottom of the stem brackets.
On lower gearcases, the anodes attached to the gearcase
are as follows:
1. Propshaft bearing carrier-An anode is mounted to the
propshaft bearing carrier inside the exhaust cavity. See
Figure 5, typical. The propshaft bearing carrier must be
removed to service the anode.
2. Rear of gearcase deck-An anode is mounted in a
pocket near the rear of the gearcase,just above the antiven-
tilation plate. See A, Figure 6.
CHAPTER NINE
lo
Sacrificial Anode Viiual Inspection
Check for loose mounting hardware, verify that the
PROPELLER AND
anodes are not painted and check the amount of deteriora- MOUNTING HARDWARE
tion present. Replace anodes must be replaced when they (V4 SERIES GEARCASE)
are two-thirds their original size (one-third gone). Test the
electrical continuity of each anode after installation as 4
described in the next section.
Sacrificial Anode Electrical Testing

This test requires an ohmmeter.
1. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the lowest scale available.
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the anode. Comect the
other ohmmeter lead to a good ground point on the gear-
case. The meter must indicate a very low reading (zero or
very near zero), which indicates electrical continuity.
3. If the reading is not very low, remove the anode and clean
the mounting surfaces of the anode, gearcase and mounting 1. Cotter pin
hardware. Reinstall the anode and retest continuity. 2. Castellated nut
3. Splined washer
4. Test the continuity of the gearcase to the engine and (plastic)
negative battery post by connecting one ohmmeter lead to 4. Propeller
the negative battery cable and the other ohmmeter lead to 5. Thrust washer
a good ground point on the lower gearcase.The meter must
indicate a very low reading (zero or very near zero), which
indicates electrical continuity.
5. If the reading is not very low, check the electrical
continuity of the lower gearcase to the exhaust housing,
the exhaust housing to the power head, and the power head PROPELLER AND MOUNTING
to the negative battery terminal. Check for loose mounting
HARDWARE (V6 AND V8 SERIES
hardware, broken or missing ground straps or excessive
GEARCASES)
corrosion. Repair as necessary to establish a good electri-
cal ground path.
GEARCASE LUBRICATION
To ensure maximum performance and durability, the
gearcase requires periodic lubrication. The gearcase lubri-
cant must be changed every 100hours of operation or once
each season.
The recommended lubricant for allmodels is OMC Ultra
HPF Gear Lube (or equivalent).If the gearcaseis subjected
to severe duty, it may be necessary to change the lubricant
more frequently.
Refer to Chapter Four for the correct procedure for 1. Cotter pin
changing the lower gearcase lubricant. 2. Castellated keeper
3. Propeller nut
4. Splined washer (brass)
NEUTRAL START ADJUSTMENT 5. Propeller
6. Rubber hub and sleeve
(TILLER HANDLE MODELS) 7. Thrust washer
Tiller handle models are equipped with a neutral safety
mechanical linkage that prevents the operator from de-
pressing the starter button unless the shift linkage is in PROPELLER

NEUTRAL. The adjustmentprocedure is covered in Chap-
ter Five. The propeller incorporates a shock-absorbing rubber
hub. The hub is designed to absorb the shock loads pro-
duced from shifting the unit into gear. If a hub fails, it will
SHIFT LEVER DETENT ADJUSTMENT generally slip at higher throttle settings but will still allow
the boater to return to port at reduced throttle. The defective
Whenever the gearcase has been removed and installed rubber hub can be removed and a new hub pressed into the
on a tiller handle model, the shift lever's neutral detent propeller with a suitable press (generally by a propeller
must be adjusted. The adjustment procedure is covered in repair station), or the propeller can be replaced.
the appropriate G e a m s e Remova~nstallationsection. The propeller pushes against a thrust washer that rides
against a tapered shoulder on the propeller shaft. On V4
series gearcases, the propeller is retained by a splined
washer and a castellated nut. The castellated nut is secured
by a stainless steel cotter pin. On V6 and V8 series gear-
cases, the propeller is retained by a splined washer and a
regular nut. A castellated keeper is installed after the nut is
properly torqued. The castellated keeper is retained by a
stainless steel cotter pin.
On all gearcases, splines in the propeller shaft transmit
the engine's power to the propeller, while the thrust washer
absorbs all thrust and transfers it to the shaft. See Figure
7 (V4 models) or Figure 8 (V6 and V8 models). The rubber
hub and sleeve (6,-Figure 8) is also used on V4 series
gearcases.
Inspect the propeller for wear, damage, cracks, missing

pieces and cavitation damage (burning or erosion on the
blade face). See A, Figure 9. Inspect the splines (B, Figure
9) for wear or damage. If the splines are packed with dried
grease or other debris, be sure to clean the splines before
installing the propeller. If propeller damage is noted, re-
place the propeller or have it repaired at a competent
propeller rebuild station. Do not operate an engine with a
damaged propeller, as the resulting vibration will damage
the gearcase and cause fasteners all over the engine to
vibrate loose.
WARNING
Toprevent accidental engine starting during
propeller service, disconnect and ground all
spark plug leads to the power head. Remove
the ignition key and safety lanyardfrom mod-
els so equipped.
Refer to Figure 7 or Figure 8 for this procedure.

1. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the propeller
nut.
2. Place a block of wood between the propeller blades and
antiventilation plate to prevent the propeller from turning.
CHAPTER NINE
3. Remove the propeller nut and splined washer. Then NOTE

slide the propeller from the propeller shaft. On high-pe$omnce hulls where the engine
is mounted high on the transom, the trim tab
4. Remove the thrust washer. my no longer be submerged at high speeds
5. Clean the propeller shaft thoroughly. Inspect the pro- and trim-angles. If so, the trim tab cannot
peller shaft for cracks, wear or damage. Rotate the propel- provide any relieffrom steering effort under
ler shaft to check for a bent propeller shaft. Inspect the these conditions.
propeller thrust washer and splined washer for wear or
damage. Replace any damaged parts. If adjustment is desired, run the boat at the speed and
6. Lubricate the propeller shaft liberally with OMC Triple trim angle desired. If the boat turns more easily to starboard
Guard Grease. than port, loosen the trim tab retaining screw (A, Figure
7. Position the thrust washer in the propeller hub. Slidethe 11) and move the tab's trailing edge (B, Figure 11) slightly
assembly over the propeller shaft, alignthe splines and seat
the assembly against the shaft's shoulder.
NOTE
V6 and V8 models must use a br~sssplined
washer (4, Figure 8).A plastic washer will
not withstand the high torque specfieation.
Failure to use a brass splined washer and
properly torque the propeller nut will result
in propshafr breakage.
8. Install the splined washer. Make sure the splines are

aligned and engaged to the shaft.
9. Install the propeller nut. Place a block of wood between
a propeller blade and the antiventilationplate (Figure 10).
1OA. V4 models-Install and tighten the nut to 120 in.-lb.
(13.6 Nem). Then continue tightening the nut until the
cotter pin hole is aligned with the next set of slots in the
nut. Do not tighten the nut any more than necessary to align
the cotter pin hole.
10B. V6 and V8 models-Install and tighten the nut to
60-70 ft.-lb. (95-108.5 N-m). Then install the castellated
keeper. Index the keeper as necessary to align the cotter pin
hole in the propeller shaft.
11. Secure the nut (or castellated keeper) with a new
stainless steel cotter pin. Bend both prongs of the cotter pin
for a secure attachment.
TRIM TAB ADJUSTMENT
Except T M n Engine
and Power Steering Models
Adjust the trim tab (B, Figure 6) so the steering wheel

will turn with equal ease in each direction at the normal
cruising speed and trim angle. The trim tab can only
provide neutral steering effort for the speed and trim angle
for which it is set. Trimming the outboard out (up) or in 1. Grommet
(down) or changing engine speed will change the torque 2. Screw
load on the propeller and the resultant steering effort.
to starboard. If the boat turns more easily to port, move the On boats equipped with two engines (one standard-ro-
tab slightly to port. Tighten the trim tab retaining screw to tation and one counter-rotation gearcase), set both trim
35-40 ft.-lb. (47.5-54.2 N.m) after adjustment and before tabs to the No. 3 (centered)position. No further adjustment
water testing. is necessary.
On boats equipped with a power-steering equipped mo-
NOTE tor, set each motor's trim tab to the No. 3 (centered)
Make sure the hole (C, Figure 11)in the trim
position. No further adjustment is necessary.
tab is open. The hole provides water to cool
the propeller's rubber hub. If the hole is
blocked, the hub will overheat and melt,
GEARCASE REMOVALANSTALLATION
resulting in hub failure.
Exploded views of each gearcase series are located in
'bin Engine and Power Steering Models the appropriate Disassembly section of this chapter. Refer
to these views as necessary during the removal and instal-
On boats equipped with two engines (both with stand- lation procedure. Illustrations of the water pump and water
ard-rotation gearcases), adjust both trim tabs equally in the tube components are located in the Water Pump section of
same direction. this chapter.
90" V4 Cross-Flow Models

2. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter.
3A. Tiller handle models-Remove the screw (2, Figure
12) securing the gearcase shift shaft to the bellcrank on
the port end of the engine's shift shaft. The screw is
located underneath the lower carburetor and is removed
from the starboard side of the motor. The use of 114 in.
drive tools and a flexible joint (or socket) is recom-
mended.
3B. Remote control models-Remove the retaining -
- clip
from the shift shaft. Push the shift lever toward the power 1
head to disengage the shift shaft from the bellcrank i n the
port end of the engine's shift shaft. See Figure 13.
4. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and
engage the tilt lock, support the exhaust housing with a
hoist or block the exhaust housing to eliminate any possi-
bility of it falling during this procedure.
5. Mark the trim tab's position relative to the gearcase
housing with a grease pencil. Remove the screw (A, Figure
11) securing the trim tab to the gearcase. Remove the trim
tab.
6. Remove the six gearcase mounting screws as follows:
a. Remove the recessed screw and washer (D, Figure
11) from under the antiventilation plate, just behind
the rear edge of the gearcase strut and in front of the
trim tab pocket. Do not remove the anode screw (E,
Figure 11).
b. Remove the screw and washer from inside the trim
tab pocket. See Figure 14.
CHAPTER NINE
c. Remove the four screws above the antiventilation CAUTION

plate. %o screws are located on each side of the Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise
gearcase. See Figure 15. in the next step or the water pump impeller
will be damaged.
7. Carefully pull the gearcase straight away from the
exhaust housing. Do not bend or damage the drive shaft 15. Continue pushing the gearcase toward the exhaust
and shift shaft, Place the gearcase on a clean workbench housing. Rotate the flywheel clockwise as required to align
or mount it in a suitable holding fixture. If the exhaust the drive shaft and crankshaft splines. Venfy that the water
housing adaptor (3, Figure 16) did not remain in the tube is entering the water tube seal, then seat the gearcase
gearcase deck (I), pull it from the exhaust housing (5). against the exhaust housing.
8. To install the gearcase, begin by inspecting the upper 16. Install the six gearcase mounting screws. Evenly
and lower seals (2 and 4, Figure 16)on the exhaust housing tighten the five 318 in. screws (Figure 14 and Figure 15)
adaptor (3). If they are damaged, remove and discard the to 22-24 ft.-lb. (30-32.5 N.m). Then tighten the single 7/16
seals. Glue new seals to the adaptor with OMC Adhesive in. screw (D, Figure 11) to 30-32 ft.-lb. (40.7-43.4 N~rn).
M sealant. 17. Install the trim tab. Coat the mounting screw's threads
9. Coat the outer surface of the exhaust seals with OMC with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Align the trim tab
Triple Guard Grease. Then firmly seat the adaptor into the with the mark made during removal, then install and
exhaust cavity on the lower gearcase deck (1, Figure 16). tighten the screw (A, Figure 11) to 35-40 ft.-lb. (47.5-54.2
10. Remove and discard the drive shaft grommet from the N.m).
top of the water pump housing. Glue a new grommet to the 18A. Eller handle models-Align the shift rod with the
pump housing with OMC Adhesive M sealant. Use the bellcrank at the port end of the shift shaft. Install and
adhesive sparingly. tighten the screw (2, Figure 12, typical) to 60-84 in.-lb.
11. Replace the water tube seal as follows: (6.8-9.5 N.m) to secure the shift rod to the bellcrank.
a. Remove the two screws securing the water tube 18B. Remote control models-Align the shift rod with the
guide to the pump housing. bellcrank at the port end of the shift shaft. Then pull the
b. Remove the guide, then pull the water tube seal from shaft toward the starboard side of the power head to lock
the pump housing with a suitable tool and discard it. the shift rod to the bellcrank. Install the retaining clip in
the shift shaft hole at the starboard end of the shaft, making
c. Coat a new water tube seal with OMC Triple Guard
sure the flat and wave washers are behind the clip as shown
Grease, then install the guide into the pump housing
in Figure 13.
with the widest opening facing up.
19. Eller handle models-Adjust the shift lever's neutral
d. Position the water tube guide over the seal and install detent as described in Chapter Five. Then venfy correct
the screws. Tighten both screws to 25-35 in.-lb. operation of the neutral start safety linkage as described in
(2.8-4.0 N.m). this chapter.
20. Install the propeller as described in this chapter.
CAUTION
Do not apply lubricant to the top of the drive 21. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or remove the
shaft in the next step. Excess lubricant be- blocks and lower the outboard.
tween the top of the drive shaft and the 22. Check the lubricant level or refill the gearcase with the
engine crankshaft can create a hydraulic recommended lubricant as described in Chapter Four.
lock, preventing the drive shaft from filly 23. Reconnect the spark plug leads to the spark plugs.
engaging the crankshaft.
12. Clean the drive shaft splines as necessary, then coat

the splines with OMC Moly Lube. Coat the threads of the
gearcase mounting screws with OMC Gasket Sealing
Compound.
13. Verify the Shzft Shaji Height as described later in this
chapter.
14. Position the gearcase under the exhaust housing. In-
sert the drive shaft into its bore and the shift shaft through
its grommet in the exhaust housing and into the steering
tube. Then push the gearcase toward the exhaust housing
and insert the water tube into the water tube guide on top
of the water pump housing.
1 LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIVE UNITS
Neutral Start Safety Linkage To venfyladjust the neutral start safety linkage, proc
(Tiller Handle Models) as follows:
1. If there is any reason to believe that the shift shaft he
The correct positioning of the shift lever's starter button is incorrectly adjusted, remove the lower gearcase and I
over the electric starter switch is normally determined by adjust the shift shaft height as described in this chapter.
the correct adjustment of the shift shaft height and the shift 2. Adjust the shift lever's neutral detent as described in the I
lever neutral detent adjustment. When correctly posi- appropriate section of Chapter Five before continuing.
tioned, the electric starter switch can only be engaged 3. Position the engine-mounted shift control lever in the I
when the shift linkage is in the NEUTRAL position. NEUTRAL detent position. The lever must positively click
If necessary, a small amount of adjustment is provided into the detent and the propeller must rotate freely in both
on the shift control lever linkage to make sure the compo- directions.
nents are correctly aligned. 4. Check the alignment of the starter button on the shift
control lever to the electric starter switch mounted in the
l
tiller handle mounting base.
a. If the button and switch are aligned, no adjus
is necessary. Proceed to Step 7 to verify co I
I-' EXHAUST HOUSING ADAPTOR

operation.
b. If the button and switch are not aligned, procee
I
(TYPICAL) I
Step 5.
5. Remove the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin securin
the shift control lever's link to the shift lever on the power
head.
6. Rotate the link's connector to change the length of the
I
link as necessary to align the button and switch. Make sure
adequate thread engagement between the link and connec-
tor is maintained. When correctly aligned, connect the link
to the shift lever by installing the clevis pin and securing
the clevis pin with the washer and a new cotter pin. Bend
both prongs of the cotter pin for a secure attachment.
NOTE
If the connector does not have enough ad-
justment to correct the button-to-switch
alignment, the shift shaft height or the shift
lever's neutral detent is not correctly ad-
justed.
7. Verify system operation as follows:
a. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to th
b. Remove the propeller to prevent accidental conta
with a rotating propeller.
c. Make sure you are clear of the propeller shaft an
flywheel. Then depress the starter butto
ily (with the shift linkage still in the
position). The electric starter must engage.
1. Seal cavity in d. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the en
geamase deck shift lever to the FORWARD position. Make
2. Lower seal
3. Exhaust housing you are clear of the propeller shaft
adaptor Then depress the starter button momentarily. Th
4. Upper seal electric starter must not engage.
5. Exhaust housing e. While rotating the propeller shaft, move the engin
shift lever to the REVERSE position. Make sure yo
are clear of the propeller shaft and flywheel. The
CHAPTER NINE
depress the starter button momentarily. The electric Figure 18. Do not remove the anode screw @,
starter must not engage. Figure 18).
f. Readjust the linkage or the shift shaft height or shift b. Remove the screw (C, Figure 18) from the border of
lever neutral detent as necessary. When finished, the trim tab pocket.
install the propeller and reconnect the spark plug c. Remove the four screws above the antiventilation
leads. plate. Two screws are located on each side of the
gearcase. See Figure 15, typical.
60"V4 and V6 Models 8. Carefully pull the gearcase straight away from the
exhaust housing. Do not bend or damage the drive shaft or
Extra-long (25 in. [635 rnm]) shaft models use a water shift shaft. Place the gearcase on a clean workbench or
tube extension sleeve and grommet. Make sure the sleeve mount it in a suitable holding fixture. If the exhaust hous-
and grommet are located and secured during disassembly ing adaptor (3, Figure 16, typical) did not remain in the
and properly positioned on the water tube guide during gearcase deck (I), pull it from the exhaust housing (5).
reassembly. The sleeve and grommet are not used on long
9. Extra-long shaft models-Locate and secure the water
(20 in. [508 mm]) shaft models.
tube extension sleeve and grommet. These components are
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the located on the water pump or stuck in the exhaust housing.
power head to prevent accidental starting. Discard the grommet.
2. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter.
3. Remove the air intake cover. Release the four rubber 10. To install the gearcase, begin by inspecting the upper
straps from their anchor points on the power head, then pull and lower seals (2 and 4, Figure 16) on the exhaust housing
the cover away from the carburetors. Make sure the vent adaptor (3). If damaged,remove and discard the seals. Glue
lines at the top starboard and bottom port comers of the new seals to the adaptor with OMC Adhesive M sealant.
cover are disconnectedbefore completelyremoving the air 11. Coat the outer surface of the exhaust seals with OMC
intake cover from the engine. Triple Guard Grease. Then firmly seat the adaptor into the
4. Remove the retaining clip (A, Figure 17)from the shift exhaust cavity on the lower gearcase deck (1, Figure 16,
shaft. Push the shift lever toward the power head to disen- typical).
gage the shift shaft (C, Figure 17) from the bellcrank (B) 12. Remove and discard the drive shaft grommet from the
on the port end of the engine's shift shaft. top of the water pump housing. Glue a new grommet to the
5. Tilt the outboard motor to the full UP position and pump housing with OMC Adhesive M sealant. Use the
engage the tilt lock. Support the exhaust housing with a adhesive sparingly.
hoist or block the exhaust housing to eliminate any possi- 13. Replace the water tube seal as follows:
bility of it falling during thls procedure.
6. Mark the trim tab's position (A, Figure 18) relative to a. Remove the two screws securing the water tube
the gearcase housing with a grease pencil. Remove the guide to the pump housing.
screw (B, Figure 18) securing the trim tab to the gearcase. b. Remove the guide, then pull the water tube seal from
Remove the trim tab. . the pump housing with a suitable tool and discard it.
7A. V4 series gearcases-Remove the six gearcasemount- c. Coat a new water tube seal with OMC Triple Guard
ing screws as follows: Grease, then install the guide into the pump housing
a. Remove the recessed screw from under the antiven- with the widest opening facing up.
tilation plate, just behind the rear edge of the gear-
case strut and in front of the trim tab pocket. See D,
Figure 11, typical. Do not remove the anode screw
(E, Figure 11).
b. Remove the screw from inside the trim tab pocket.
See Figure 14.
c. Remove the four screws above the antiventilation
plate. Two screws are located on each side of the
7B. V6 series gearcase-Remove the six gearcase mount-
ing screws as follows:
a. Remove the recessed screw from under the antiven-
tilation plate, just behind the rear edge of the gear-
case strut and in front of the trim tab pocket. See D,
d. Position the water tube guide over the seal and install the encoder wheel screw to align the drive shaft and
the screws. Tighten both screws to 25-35 in.-lb. crankshaft splines. Make sure the water tube enters the
(2.8-4.0 Nem). water tube seal, then seat the gearcase against the exhaust
e. Extra-long shaft models-Install the water tube ex- housing.
tension sleeve over the water tube guide. Position a 19A. V4 series gearcase-Install the six gearcase mount-
new grommet on top of the sleeve. ing screws. Evenly tighten the five 318 in. screws (Figure
14 and Figure 15) to 22-24 ft.-lb. (30-32.5 N.m). Then
CAUTION tighten the single 7/16 in. screw (D, Figure 11) to 30-32
Do not apply lubricant to the top of the drive ft.-lb. (40.7-43.4 N-m).
shaft in the next step. Excess lubricant be- 19B. V6 series gearcases-Install the six gearcase mount-
tween the top of the drive shaft and the
ing screws. Evenly tighten the five 318 in. screws (Figure
engine crankshaft can create a hydraulic
lock, preventing the drive shafr from fully 15 and C, Figure 18) to 26-28 ft.-lb. (35.3-38 N.m). Then
engaging the crankshaf. tighten the single 7/16 in. screw (D, Figure 18) to 45-50
ft.-lb. (61-67.8 N.m).
14. Clean the drive shaft splines as necessary, then coat 20. Install the trim tab. Coat the mounting screw's threads
the splines with OMC Moly Lube. Coat the threads of the with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Align the trim tab
gearcase mounting screws with OMC Gasket Sealing with the mark made during removal, then install and
Compound. tighten the screw (A, Figure 11, typical) to 35-40 ft.-lb.
15. Verify the Shift ShaftHeight as described later in this (47.5-54.2N.m).
chapter. 21. Align the shift rod (C, Figure 17) with the bellcrank
16. Remove the flywheel cover. Obtain a suitable wrench (B) at the port end of the shift shaft. Then pull the shaft
or socket to fit the screw on top of the timing encoder toward the starboard side of the power head to lock the shift
wheel. rod to the bellcrank. Install the retaining clip (A, Figure
17. Position the gearcase under the exhaust housing. In- 17) in the shift shaft hole at the starboard end of the shaft,
sert the drive shaft into its bore and the shift shaft through making sure the flat and wave washers are behind the clip.
its grommet in the exhaust housing and into the steering 22. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or remove the
tube. Then push the gearcase toward the exhaust housing blocks and lower the outboard.
and insert the water tube into the water tube guide on top 23. Install the air intake cover. Make sure the vent lines at
of the water pump housing. the top starboard and bottom port corners of the cover are
connected before completely seating the air intake cover
CAUTION to the carburetors. Then connect the four rubber straps to
Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise their anchor points on the power head.
in the next step or the water pump impeller 24. Install the flywheel cover.
will be damaged.
25. Install the propeller as described previously in thls
18. Continue pushing the gearcase toward the exhaust chapter.
housing. Rotate the flywheel clockwise with a wrench on 26. Check the lubricant level or refill the gearcase with the
recommended lubricant as described in Chapter Four.
27. Reconnect the spark plug leads to the spark plugs.
90" V4, V6 and V8 Loop-Charged Models
Extra-long (25 in. [635 mm]) and extra, extra-long (30

in. [762 rnm]) shaft V4 and V6 models use a water tube
extension sleeve and grommet. Make sure the sleeve and
grommet are located and secured during disassembly and
properly positioned on the water tube guide during reas-
sembly. The sleeve and grommet are not used on long (20
in. [508 mrn]) V4 and V6 models, nor any V8 models.
WARNING
Care must be taken to stabilize the weight of
the power head during gearcase removal.
Engage the tilt lock, support the exhaust
CHAPTER NINE
housing with a hoist or securely block the 8A. V6 series gearcase-Carefully pull the gearcase
exhaust housing to eliminate any possibility straight away from the exhaust housing. Do not bend or
of the engine tilting down during gearcase damage the drive shdt or shift shaft. Place the gearcase on
removal. a clean workbench or mount it in a suitable holding fixture.
Then proceed as follows:
power head to prevent accidental starting. a. If the exhaust housing adaptor (3, Figure 16,typical)
2. Remove the propeller as described previously in this did not remain in the gearcase deck (I), pull it from
chapter. the exhaust housing (5).
3. Remove the lower split cowls as described in Power b. If so equipped, locate and secure the water tube
head removaVinstallation in Chapter Eight. extension sleeve and grommet. These components
4. Remove the screw (2, Figure 19) securing the gearcase are either on the water pump or stuck in the exhaust
shift shaft to the bellcrank on the port end of the engine's housing. Discard the grommet.
shift shaft. 8B. V8 series gearcase--Carefully pull the gearcase
5. Tilt the outboard motor to the full UP position and straight away from the exhaust housing. Do not bend or
engage the tilt lock, support the exhaust housing with a damage the drive shaft or shift shaft. Place the gearcase on
hoist or block the exhaust housing to eliminate any possi- a clean workbench or mount it in a suitable holding fixture.
bility of it falling during this procedure. These models do not use an exhaust housing adaptor.
NOTE 9A. V6 series gearcase-Proceed as follows:
On V8 series gearcases, a gasket is used a. Inspect the upper and lower seals (2 and 4, Figure
between the trim tab and the gearcase hous- 16) on the exhaust housing adaptor (3). If damaged,
ing. remove and discard the seals. Glue new seals to the
adaptor with OMC Adhesive M sealant.
6. Mark the trim tab's position (A, Figure 18, typical)
relative to the gearcase housing with a grease pencil. b. Coat the outer surface of the exhaust seals with OMC
Remove the screw (B, Figure 18)securing the trim tab to Triple Guard Grease. Then firmly seat the adaptor
the gearcase. Remove the trim tab (and gasket on V8
models).
7A. V6 series gearcase-Remove the six gearcase mount-
a. Remove the recessed screw and washer (D, Figure
18) from under the antiventilation plate, just behind
the rear edge of the gearcase strut and in front of the
trim tab pocket. Do not remove the anode screw.
b. Remove the screw (C, Figure 18) at the border of
the trim tab pocket.
7B. V8 series gearcase-Remove the six gearcase mount-
a. Remove the recessed screw (D, Figure 18) from
under the antiventilation plate, just behind the rear
edge of the gearcase strut and in front of the trim tab
pocket. Do not remove the anode screw (E, Figure
18).
b. Using a wrench, remove the screw and spacer washer
located in the trim tab pocket. See Figure 14,typical. 1. Grommet
A socket cannot be used due to the limited clearance 2. Screw
in the trim tab pocket.
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRNE UNITS
into the exhaust cavity on the lower gearcase deck the drive shaft and crankshaft splines. Make sure the water
(1, Figure 16, typical). tube enters the water tube seal, then seat the gearcase
9B. V8 series gearcase-Remove and discard the drive against the exhaust housing.
shaft O-ring. The O-ring is located at the top of the drive 16A. V6 series gearcase-Install the six gearcase mount-
shaft, just below the splines. ing screws. Evenly tighten the five 318 in. screws (Figure
10. Remove and discard the drive shaft grommet from the 15 and C, Figure 18) to 26-28 ft.-lb. (35.3-38 N-m). Then
top of the water pump housing. Glue a new grommet to the tighten the single 7/16 in. screw (D, Figure 18) to 45-50
pump housing with OMC Adhesive M sealant. Use the ft.-lb. (61-67.8 N-m).
adhesive sparingly. 16B. V8 series gearcase-Install the six gearcase mount-
11. Replace the water tube seal as follows: ing screws (and washers). Evenly tighten the five 318 in.
screws (Figure 14, typical and Figure 15) to 26-28
a. Remove the two screws securing the water tube ft.-lb. (35.3-38 N-m). Then tighten the single 7116 in.
guide to the pump housing. screw (D, Figure 18, typical) to 45-50 ft.-lb. (61-67.8
b. Remove the guide, then pull the water tube seal from N.m).
the pump housing with a suitable tool and discard it.
17A. V6 series gearcase-Install the trim tab. Coat the
c. Coat a new water tube seal with OMC Triple Guard
mounting screw's threads with OMC Gasket Sealing Com-
Grease, then install the guide into the pump housing
pound. Align the trim tab with the mark made during
with the widest opening facing up.
removal (A, Figure IS), then install and tighten the screw
d. Position the water tube guide over the seal and install (B) to 35-40 ft.-lb. (47.5-54.2 N.m).
the screws. Tighten both screws to 25-35 in.-lb.
(2.8-4.0 N-m). 17B. V8 series gearcase--Coat both sides of a new trim
e. On models so equipped, install the spacer sleeve and tab gasket with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install
a new grommet over the water tube guide. the trim tab using the new gasket. Coat the mounting
screw's threads with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound.
Align the trim tab with the mark made during removal (A,
CAUTION
Do not apply lubricant to the top of the drive Figure 18), then install and tighten the screw (B) to 35-40
shaft in the next step. Excess lubricant be- ft.-lb. (47.5-54.2 N.m).
tween the top of the drive shaft and the 18. Align the shift rod with the bellcrank at the port end
engine crankshaji can create a hydraulic of the shift shaft. Install and tighten the screw (Figure 12,
lock preventing the drive shaft from fully typical) to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) to secure the shift
engaging the crankshaft. rod to the bellcrank.
12. Clean the drive shaft splines as necessary, then coat 19. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or remove the
the splines with OMC Moly Lube. Coat the threads of the blocks and lower the outboard.
gearcase mounting screws with OMC Gasket Sealing
20. Install the split lower cowls as described in Power
Compound. On V8 models, install a new O-ring in the
head remval/installation in Chapter Eight.
groove just below the drive shaft splines.
13. Venfy the Shift Shaft Height as described later in this 21. Install the propeller as described previously in this
chapter. chapter.
14. Position the gearcase under the exhaust housing. In- 22. Check the lubricant level or refill the gearcase with
sert the drive shaft into its bore and the shift shaft through the recommended lubricant as described in Chapter
its grommet in the exhaust housing and into the steering Four.
tube. Then push the gearcase toward the exhaust housing 23. Reconnect the spark plug leads to the spark plugs.
and insert the water tube into the water tube guide on top
of the water pump housing.
WATER PUMP
CAUTION
Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise
in the next step or the water pump impeller All of the outboard and jet drive models in this manual
will be damuged. use an offset center pump housing that causes the vanes of
the impeller to flex during rotation. At low speeds the pump
15. Continue pushing the gearcase toward the exhaust operates as a positive displacement pump. At high speeds,
housing. Rotate the flywheel clockwise as required to align water resistance causes the impeller vanes to flex inward,
394 CHAPTER NINE
causing the pump to operate as a centrifugal pump. See

Figure 20.
The pump draws water into the intake port(s) as the
vanes flex outward and pump water out of the discharge
port(s) as the vanes compress (flex inward) as shown in
Figure 21. The pump is located on the gearcaseupper deck
and is driven by a key in the drive shaft.
The impeller only operates in a clockwise rotation with
the dnve shaft and is held in a flexed position at all times.
Over time, this causes the impeller to take a set in one
direction. Turning an impeller over and attempting to turn Hlgh speed
it against its natural set will cause premature impeller
failure and power head damage from overheating. The
manufacturer recommends replacing the impeller every
time the water pump is disassembled. Reuse the impeller
only if there is no other option. If the impeller must be
reused, reinstall the impeller in its original position.
Overheating and extensive power head damage can re-
sult from a faulty water pump. Therefore, it is highly
recommended that the water pump impeller, seals and
gaskets be replaced at least once a year as a preventative Low speed
maintenance measure.
Individual operating conditions may dictate that the
pump will require service more often. It is also recom-
lm~ellervanes
Pump
Pur
mended that the water pump be serviced any time the lower
gearcase (or jet pump unit) is removed for any type of
@ WATER PUMP AND service.
RELATED COMPONENTS
8-16 Removal and Disassembly
Replace the impeller, all seals and gaskets each time the
water pump is disassembled. The water pump impeller is
8
-11 secured to the drive shaft by a key that fits between a flat
area on the drive shaft and a relief in the impeller hub. As
the drive shaft rotates, the impeller rotates with it. Water is
pumped up to the power head through a copper water tube
or cast passage in the exhaust housing.
The 65 and 80 jet drive models (except the 1998 80jet)
10 do not use the base gasket (1, Figure 22). The water tube
extension sleeve and grommet (15 and 16, Figure 22) are
only used on extra-long (25 in. [635 mm]) and extra,
extra-long (30 in. [762 mm]) shaft 90" and 60" V4 and V6
models. They are not used on any V8 models or any 90"
6-
V4 cross-flow models. Refer to Figure 22 for this proce-
8 dure.
7 1A. Propeller models-Remove the gearcase as described
in this chapter. Make sure the drive shaft grommet, water
tube guide and water tube grommet are removed as speci-
fied.
6-@ 1B. Jet models-Remove the jet drive unit as described in
this chapter. Make sure the drive shaft grommet, water tube
guide and water tube grommet are removed as specified.
-4 2. Remove the four water pump housing screws.
3. Carefully pry the pump housing loose using a putty
knife or similar tool. Then slide the housing up and off the
&
:-21- drive shaft. Remove and discard the body-to-impellerplate
molded seal (4, Figure 22).
NOTE
I f the impeller is corroded and frozen to the
1.
2.
3.
Base gasket
Impeller plate
Impeller key
drive shaft, the impeller hub may have to be
split with a chisel to remove it. ~
4. Molded seal 4. If the impeller came off with the pump housing,proceed
5. Impeller O-ring
6. Impeller
to Step 5. If the impeller remained on the gearcase, slide
7. Impeller liner the impeller up and off the drive shaft. If the impeller
8. Pump housing O-ring sticks, hold the impeller in place and rotate the drive shaft
9. Pump housing counterclockwise to loosen the wedging action of the
10. Screw impeller drive key.
11. Water tube grommet
12. Water tube guide 5. Locate and secure the impeller drive key. Then remove
13. Screw and discard the O-ring (5, Figure 22) that seals the bottom
14. Drive shaft grommet of the impeller to the drive shaft.
15. Water tube
extension sleeve 6. Carefully pry the impeller plate from the gearcase orjet
16. Grommet pump using a putty h f e or similar tool. Remove the plate,
then remove and discard the gasket (except 65 and 80 jet
models). The 65 and 80 jet drive models (except the 1998
CHAPTER NINE
80 jet) do not use a gasket between the impeller plate and Assembly and Installation
jet drive unit.
The 65 and 80 jet drive models (except the 1998 80 jet)
NOTE do not use the base gasket (1, Figure 22) even though the
Liberally apply OMC Cleaning Solvent or gasket is included in the manufacturer's water pump repair
isopropyl alcohol to the liner-to-pump hous- kit. Refer to Figure 22 for this procedure.
ing mating su$aces to soften the sealant. The 1A. 65 and 80 jet drive models (except the 1998 80
liner will be much easier to remove.
jet)--Apply a light coat of OMC Gasket Sealing Com-
7. Gently pry the liner from the pump housing with a pound to the impeller plate-to-bearing housing mating
suitable screwdriver. A pair of needlenose pliers may be surfaces. Then install the impeller plate over the drive shaft
used to help pull the liner from the body. The liner and and into position on the pump unit deck without a gasket.
pump housing must not be damaged if either is to be 1B. All other models-Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Com-
reused. Remove and discard the O-ring (8, Figure 22) pound to both sides of a new base gasket. Install the gasket,
located under the liner. then the impeller plate, over the drive shaft and into posi-
8. Refer to Water Pump Cleaning and Inspection in this tion on the gearcase (or pump unit) deck
chapter before assembling the water pump. 2. Lubricate a new impeller O-ring (5, Figure 22) with
OMC Triple Guard Grease. Slide the O-ring over the drive
shaft and into position against the impeller plate.
Water Pump Cleaning and Inspection (All Models)
NOTE
1. Clean all metal parts in a mild solvent and dry with Install the impeller drive key so its sharp
compressed air. Make sure all gasket material and sealant edge is the leading edge as the drive shaft is
residue is removed. rotated clockwise (as viewed from top).
2. Clean all plastic components with OMC Cleaning sol- 3. Coat the drive shaft flat with a suitable grease, then
vent or isopropyl alcohol. Make sure all gasket material position the impeller key on the flat. The sharp edge of the
and sealant residue is removed. key must lead as the drive shaft is turned clockwise. Then
3. Clean all sealant and/or gasket material from the gear- rotate the drive shaft to position the thickest part of the
case (or jet pump unit) deck and all other mating surfaces. impeller drive key straight aft.
Do not gouge or distort gasket sealing surfaces and do not 4. Glue a new O-ring (8, Figure 22) to the pump housing's
allow gasket material to fall into the gearcase housing or groove using OMC Adhesive M sealant. Apply four small
jet pump unit. drops of adhesive, using the four ribs shown in Figure 23
4. Check plastic pump housings and all other plastic parts as locating references for each drop. Do not apply any
for cracks, deformation or distortion from overheating or adhesive near the air bleed groove (Figure 23) or the pump
improper service procedures. Replace parts as needed.
5. Check the impeller plate and impeller liner for grooves,
rough surfaces or excessive wear. While some grooving is
normal, the grooves must not be deep or sharp. If a groove
easily catches a fingernail, the part must be replaced.
Replace the impeller liner and impeller plate as necessary.
NOTE
The water pump impeller must be able to
float on the drive shaft. Clean the impeller
area of the drive shaft thoroughly using em-
ery cloth. Be certain the impeller slides onto Ribs
the drive shaft easily.
6. It is highly recommended that the impeller be replaced

anytime it is removed. If the impeller must be reused, check
the bonding of the rubber to the impeller hub for separa-
tion. Check the side seal surfaces and blade ends for cracks,
Ribs
tears, excessive wear or a glazed or melted appearance. If
any of these defects are noted, do not reuse the original
impeller under any circumstances.
LOWER GEARCASE AND .JET DRIVE UNITS 397
will not be able to prime under all conditions. Use the Service Precautions (Bearing Installation)
adhesive sparingly.
5. Apply a light coat of OMC Gasket Sealing Compound If the specified special tools for removing and instalhg
to the exterior surfaces of the impeller liner. Install the liner press-fit bearings are not available, make sure that you
into the housing, making sure the flanged lip is located in measure and record the installed position of each bearing
the relieved portion of the pump housing next to the water before removal. Once a press-fit bearing is removed, it
outlet port. The liner must seat in the pump housing bore. must be replaced. Install all new bearings in the exact same
position as noted before removal.
NOTE An incorrect installation procedure will damage a new
The impeller's drive key slot is not open
bearing. A standard rule is to press only against the num-
through both sides of the impellel: The impel-
ler must be installed into the housing with bered side of any bearing unless otherwise specified. Refer
the open end of the slot facing out. I f the to the following general guidelines when installing new
closed end of the slot is installedfacing out, bearings:
the impeller drive key will not be able to 1. All caged needle bearings must be installed by pressing
enter the slot when the housing is installed on the numbered side.
over the drive shaft. 2. All one-piece ball bearing assemblies must be installed
by pressing-on the numbered side of the bearing.
6. Lightly lubricate the impeller with gear lubricant. Insert
a. Press on the bearing's outer race if the bearing is
the impeller into the liner with the impeller drive key slot
being pressed into a bore.
facing out using a counterclockwise twisting motion.
Make sure all blades completely enter the liner. Rotate the b. Press on the bearing's inner race if the bearing is
impeller counterclockwiseuntil the impeller drive key slot being pressed over a shaft.
is pointing straight aft. 3. A tapered roller bearing consists of a bearing race (also
7. Glue a new pump housing seal (4, Figure 22) into the called the cup) and a roller bearing assembly. The race and
housing's groove using OMC Adhesive M sealant. Use the roller bearini are a matched assembly &d must be re-
adhesive sparingly.Allow the adhesive to dry, then coat the placed as such. Do not attempt to replace only the race or
seal with OMC Triple Guard Grease. only the roller bearing.
8. Place the pump assembly over the drive shaft. Carefully a. The race is normally installed by pressing on the
align the impeller drive key or pin slot with the impeller narrowest edge of its outer diameter, resulting in the ,
drive key, then seat the assembly to the impeller plate. tapered bearing surface facing the pressing tool (un-
Rotate the drive shaft clockwise and the pump housing less specified otherwise). The pressing tool must not
counterclockwise as necessary to align the components. be allowed to directly contact the precision ground
Make sure the impeller drive key is not displaced during bearing surface.
the installation process. b. The roller bearing must be installed by pressing on
9. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the threads its inner race, with the rollers facing the pressing tool
of the four housing mounting screws. Venfy that the hous- (unless specified otherwise).Do not allow the press-
ing is seated to the gearcase, that the base gasket and ing tool to contact the rollers or the bearing cage.
~
impeller plate are correctly positioned and that the screw
holes are aligned,then install and evenly tighten the screws Service Precautions (Seal Installation)
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
10. Install the gearcase or jet drive unit as described in this Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the outer
chapter. Make sure the drive shaft grommet, water tube seal diameter of all metal-cased seals before pressing the seal
and water tube guide are installed as specified. into place.
Apply OMC DPL (or WD-40) Lubricant to the outer
GEARCASE DISASSEMBLYmEASSEMBLY diameter of all rubber-cased seals before pressing the seal
into place. DPL will lubricate the seal and allow it to slide
This section covers complete disassembly and assembly into position without cutting the rubber case. The DPL will
procedures for each lower gearcase covered in this manual. then evaporate, preventing the seal from sliding out of its
Once the gearcase is disassembled, refer to Gearcase Clean- bore under operation. If gasket sealing compound or any
ing and Inspection, in this chapter before beginning assembly. grease is used, the seal will be ejected from its bore under
All models require that the pinion gear be precisely operation.
located during assembly. The assembly procedure refers Lubricate the rubber lip(s) of all seals with OMC Triple
you to Pinion Gear Shimming at the proper time. Guard Grease, before the seal is installed.
CHAPTER NINE
lbo-Piece Drive Shafts

All of the gearcases covered in this manual use a two-
piece dnve shaft assembly. The upper and lower drive shaft
are held together by a locking retainer. The retainer is held
into the lower drive shaft with a roll pin. Service proce-
dures for the two-piece drive shaft are covered in the
Cleaning and Inspection section, located in this chapter.
This design allows OMC Genuine Parts to stock a gear-
case assembly without the upper drive shaft and shift Shaft V4 SERIES GEARCASE
installed. Generally, the original upper drive shaft and shift ASSEMBLY (90")
shaft is not damaged and can be reused. If not, a new upper
drive shaft or shift shaft must be ordered along with the
1. Gearcase housing 28. Detent ball
gearcase assembly. The original (or new) drive shaft is 2. Trim tab 29. Pivot pin
simply inserted into the drive shaft bearing canier until it 3. Trim tab screw 30. Shift actuator rod
snaps into the retainer in the lower drive shaft. The original 4. Shift shaft 31. Shift cradle
(or new) shift shaft is carefully threaded through the 0- 5. Shift shaft housing 32. Shift bellcrank
6. Screw 33. Forward gear
rings in the shift shaft housing and into the shift detent 7. Gasket thrust washer
lever. Then the shift shaft height must be correctly set as 8. Shift shaft O-rings 34. Forward gear
specified in this chapter. 9. Drive shaft seal@) thrust bearing
10. screw 35. Forward gear
NOTE 11. Drive shaft 36. Clutch dog
bearing carrier 37. Clutch dog cross pin
the drive shaft assembly is going to be
12. O-ring 38. Cross pin
removedfrom the gearcase housing, the roll 13. Shim(s) retaining spring
pin must be driven out and the upper and 14. Thrust washer 39. Propeller shaft
lower shafts separatedffom each othel: The 15. Thrust bearing 40. Reverse gear
splined cavity in the lower drive shaft must 16. Two-piece drive shaft 41. Reverse gear
be thoroughly washed in solvent to remove 17. Pinion bearing thrust bearing
all metal particles and any other debris. 18. Pinion gear 42. Reverse gear
19. Pinion nut thrust washer
20. Water inlet screen 43. Retaining plate
Disassembly (V4 Series Gearcase) 21. Pinion bearing retaining 44. Retaining rings
screw and seal 45. O-ring
22. Vent plug and seal 46. Large needle bearing
These gearcases are available in standard-rotation only. 23. Dralnlfill plug and seal 47. Propshaft
The gearcase used on 90" V4 cross-flowmodels uses two 24. Shift detent lever bearing carrier
large snap rings, a threaded plate and four screws (with 25. Forward gear 48. Small needle bearing
seals) to hold the propshaft bearing carrier into the gear- bearing housing 49. Propshaft seal@)
26. Alignment pin 50. Screw and seal
case housing. The water inlet screens are internal and the 27. Detent spring
water pump must be removed to replace the screens.
The gearcase used on 60" V4 models uses a different gear
housing, propshaftbearing carrier and tabbed washers to hold
the propshaftbearing canier into the gearcase. The water inlet
screens are external and can be cleaned or replaced without
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor.
Most of the service procedures are identical for both
gearcase styles except for the propshaft bearing carrier
removaVinstallation and some special tool part numbers.
On both styles, all of the bearings are caged needle bear-
ings. There are no loose needle bearings.
Refer to Figure 24 (90" models) or Figure 25 (60"
models) for this procedure. Record the location, orienta-
tion and thickness of all shims and thrust washers removed
from the gear housing, so that they can be correctly rein-
stalled.
400 CHAPTER NINE
LOWER GEARCASE AND JETDRIVE UNITS 401
V4 SERIES GEARCASE ASSEMBLY (60°)
1. Gearcase housing 32. Screw

2. Trim tab 33. Drive shaft seal@)
3. Trim tab screw 34. Shift detent lever
4. Anode 35. Forward gear
5. Anode screw and washer bearing housing
6. Water inlet screen 36. Alignment pin
7. Screw 37. Detent spring
8. Vent plug and seal 38. Detent ball
9. Drainlfill plug and seal 39. Pivot pin
10. Speedometer pickup 40. Shift actuator rod
fitting and cap 41. Shift cradle
11. Speedometer passage plug 42. Shift bellcrank
12. Speedometer passage seal 43. Forward gear thrust washer
13. Shift shaft 0-rlngs 44. Forward gear thrust bearing
14. Gasket 45. Forward gear
15. Shift shaft housing 46. Clutch dog
16. Screw and washer 47. Clutch dog cross pin
17. Grommet 48. Cross pin retaining spring
18. Shift shaft 49. Propeller shaft
19. Pinion bearing locking clip 50. Reverse gear
20. Pinion nut 51. Reverse gear thrust bearing
21. Pinion gear 52. Reverse gear thrust washer
22. Pinion bearing 53. O-ring
23. Lower drive shaft 54. Large needle bearing
24. Drive shaft retainer 55. Propshaft bearing carrier
25. Roll pin 56. Small needle bearing
26. Upper drive shaft 57. Propshaft seal(s)
27. Thrust bearing 58. Tabbed washer
28. Thrust washer 59. Flat washer
29. Shim@) 60. Screw
30. O-ring 61. Anode
31. Drive shaft bearing carrier 62. Anode screw
CHAPTER NINE
The propshaft bearing carrier can be removed without hand protection when removing and install-
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor, if so ing the retaining rings.
desired. Do not attempt to remove the propshaft without
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor. e. Remove both retaining rings from the gearcase bore
1. Drain the gearcase lubricant as described in Chapter using retaining ring pliers (part No. 331045) or an
Four. equivalent pair of snap ring pliers. See Figure 29,
typical. Once clear of the gearcase bore, release all
2. Remove the gearcase as described in this chapter.
tension from each ring before removing the ring
3. Remove the water pump as described in this chapter.
completely from the propshaft bore. See Figure 30,
4A. 90"models-Remove the four screws (50, Figure 24)
typical.
securing the propshaft bearing carrier to the gearcase bore.
The screws are located insidethe carrier's exhaust passages f. Remove the retainer plate (43, Figure 24) from the
(Figure 26). Remove and discard the O-ring from each gearcase bore.
screw. 5B. 60"models-Using components of the universalpuller
4B. 60"models-Remove the two screws, flat washers and kit part No. 378103 (or an equivalent puller) and two
tabbed washers (58-60, Figure 25) securing the propshaft 5/16-18 x 11 in. threaded rods with flat washers and nuts,
bearing carrier to the gearcase bore. See Figure 27. remove the propshaft bearing carrier.
5A. 90" models-Using components of the universal a. Position the puller head (part No. 307636) andpress-
puller kit part No. 378103 (or an equivalentpuller) and two ing screw (part No. 307637) over the propshaft.
5/16-18 x 8 in. screws, remove the propshaft bearing b. Install the two threaded rods through the puller head
carrier. slots and into the screw holes on the rear flange of
a. Position the puller head (part No. 307636) and press- the carrier. Thread the rods as far as possible into the
ing screw (part No. 307637) over the propshaft. carrier.
b. Install the two part No. 316982 (or equivalent) c. Install a flat washer and nut over each rod. Tighten
screws through the puller head slots and into the the nuts until they are snug against the puller head.
screw holes on the rear flange of the carrier.
c. Insert the handle (part No. 307638) into the puller
head to stabilize the assembly, then tighten the press-
ing screw to pull the carrier from the gearcase. See
Figure 28, typical.
d. Once free,pull the carrier from the gearcase bore.
Remove and discard the O-ring (45, Figure 24).
WARNING
The retaining rings (44, Figure 24) are un-
der extremepressure. Wear suitable eye and
Adjust the nuts to make sure the puller head is square 7. Remove the four screws securing the drive shaft bearing
to the propshaft. carrier (11, Figure 24 or 3 1, Figure 25) to the gearcase.
d. Insert the handle (part No. 307638) into the puller Do not remove the carrier at this time.
head to stabilize the assembly, then tighten the press- 8. Pull up on the shift shaft while rotating the propeller
ing screw to pull the carrier from the gearcase. See shaft to engage FORWARD gear and allow a wrench to be
Figure 28, typical. installed onto the pinion nut.
e. Once free, pull the carrier from the gearcase bore. 9. Hold the pinion nut using pinion nut wrench (part No.
Remove and discard the O-ring (53, Figure 25). 334455) or an equivalent 718 in. wrench. Pad the area
6. Rotate the gearcase until the reverse gear and its thrust around the wrench handle with shop towels to prevent
bearing and thrust washer slide out. Be prepared to catch housing damage.
the components. Once the gear, bearing and washer are 10. Install drive shaft spline socket part No. 311875(or an
removed, reposition the gearcase so that the drive shaft is equivalently splined socket) and a breaker bar onto the
pointing straight up. drive shaft splines.
11. Hold the wrench firmly against the propshaft. See
Figure 31, typical. Then loosenid remove the pinion nut
by turning the drive shaft counterclockwise until the nut is
free from the shaft. Remove the nut from the gearcase bore.
12. Pull the drive shaft assembly from its bore, then re-
move the pinion gear from the gearcase. If the pinion gear
sticks to the drive shaft, proceed as follows:
a. Position plate (part No. 325867) over the drive shaft
and against the gearcase deck.
b. Position puller (part No. 390706) over the drive shaft
and position its set screw over the water pump drive
key's flat.
c. Tighten the puller's two horizontal screws securely,
then tighten the set screw against the drive shaft's
flat.
d. Alternately tighten the puller's two vertical screws
until the drive shaft is free from the pinion gear. If
the upper drive shaft pulls free from the lower drive
shaft, proceed to Step 13.
CHAPTER NINE
e. Remove the tools when finished. Proceed to Step 14. 19. Pull the shift shaft from the shift shaft housing. Re-
13. If the upper drive shaft pulled free from the lower drive move the O-rings from the shift shaft bore with a seal pick
shaft in the previous step, proceed as follows: or other hooked tool. Discard the O-rings.
a. Assemble lower drive shaft puller (part No. 342681) 20. Grasp the propeller shaft and pull the propshaft assem-
to a suitable slide hammer. bly from the gearcase (Figure 33). If it catches, make sure
b. Hook the open end of the drive shaft puller under the the drain/fill plug is removed and that the shift detent lever
roll pin in the lower drive shaft. is pushed downward as far as possible. Set the assembly
c. Using the slide hammer, pull the lower drive shaft on a clean workbench.
from the gearcase housing. 21. Refer to Figure 34 and disassemble the propshaft as
d. Remove the tools when finished. Remove and dis- follows:
card the roll pin and drive shaft retainer. a. Remove and discard the clutch dog cross pin's re-
14. Slide the drive shaft bearing carrier, shim(s), thrust taining spring with a small screwdriver or awl. Insert
washer and thrust bearing from the drive shaft. Measure the tool under one end of the spring and rotate the
and record the thickness of the shim(s) for later reference. propeller shaft to unwind the spring.
Tag the shim(s) for identification during reassembly.
15. Remove and discard the drive shaft bearing carrier's b. Using a small punch, push the cross pin out of the
O-ring (12, Figure 24 or 30, Figure 25). clutch dog. Then slide the forward gear and bearing
housing assembly and the clutch dog off the front of
16. Rotate the gearcase until the pinion gear slides out. Be the propshaft.
prepared to catch the gear. Once the gear is removed,
reposition the gearcase so the drive shaft is pointing c. Separate the forward gear, thrust bearing and thrust
straight up. washer from the bearing housing.
17. Push the shift shaft downward as far as possible. Then d. Using a small punch, push the pivot pin from the
unthread the shift shaft until it is free from the shift detent bearing housing, then pull the actuator rod and cra-
lever (24, Figure 25 or 34, Figure 25). The detent lever dle from the bearing housing. Lift the cradle from
must remain in the fully down position in order to remove the rod.
the propshaft assembly.
18. Remove the six screws securing the shift shaft housing
to the gearcase deck. If necessary, tap the housing with a
soft-faced hammer to break it free. Then remove the hous-
ing and shift shaft as an assembly. See Figure 32. Remove
and discard the cover gasket.
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DIUVE UNITS 405
e. Remove the shift bellcrank (8, Figure 34) from the f. Cover the detent ball and spring access hole (2,
opening at the top and front of the bearing housing. Figure 35) with a shop towel, then rotate the shift
If necessary, rotate the shift detent lever to provide detent lever 90" to either side and pull the lever (1)
clearance. from the bearing housing. Locate and secure the
detent ball and spring.
CAUTION
Use extreme care when removing the sh@ NOTE
detent level: The detent ball and spring m y The needle bearings in the forward gear
fly from the access hole (2, Figure 35) with bearing housing and the drive shafr bearing
considerableforce. carrier are not serviceable.Ifthe bearing or
the housing is worn or damaged, replace the
bearing housing or bearing carrier as an
assembly.
22. Remove the drive shaft seal@) from the drive shaft
PROPSHLVT ASSEMBLY bearing carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore
(W4 SERIES GEARCASE) with a suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore
during the removal process. Discard the seal(s).
23. Remove the propshaft seal@)from the propshaft bear-
11 ing carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore with
a suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore
24A. 90" models-If the lower drive shaft (pinion gear)
bearing requires replacement, several components from
pinion bearing kit (part No. 391257) or equivalent tools are
required to remove the bearing.
1. Forward gear
bearing housing
2. Detent sprlng
3. Detent ball
4. Pivot pln
5. Shift actuator rod
6. Shift detent lever
7. Shift cradle
8. Shift bellcrank
9. Thrust washer
10. Thrust bearing
11. Forward gear
12. Clutch dog cross pin
13. Clutch dog
14. Cross pin
retaining spring 1. Shift detent lever
15. Propeller shaft 2. Detent ball access hole
CHAPTER NINE
a. Remove the bearing retaining screw from the star- Assembly (V4 Series Gearcase)
board side of the gearcase. The screw is easily iden-
tified by its Posidriv screw head. The screw is located Lubricate all internal components with OMC Ultra HPF
just in front of the starboard water inlet screen as Gear Lube. Do not assemble components dry. Refer to
shown in Figure 36. Remove and discard the O-ring Table 2 for torque values and Table 3 for specifications.
from the screw. Refer to Figure 24 (90" models) or Figure 25 (60" models)
b. Position a shop towel in the gearcase bore, directly for this procedure.
under the bearing.
The pinion gear is precisely located by a shimming
c. Assemble the components from the pinion bearing
process. The shimming should be verified during any
kit (part No. 391257) as shown in Figure 37.
major disassembly, but if the pinion gear, drive shaft, drive
d. Insert the tool into the dnve shaft bore. Drive against
shaft bearing carrier or the drive shaft thrust washer or
the screw (1, Figure 37) with a soft-faced mallet
thrust bearing have been replaced, the pinion gear must be
until the bearing is removed.
e. Discard the bearing. shimmed.
24B. 60" models-If the lower drive shaft (pinion gear) The shift shaft must be adjusted to a specific height in
bearing requires replacement, several components from NEUTRAL gear. Failure to properly adjust the shift shaft
pinion bearing kit (part No. 391257) or equivalent tools are will cause the shift system to be biased toward one gear.
required to remove the bearing. To remove the bearing, The other gear will not properly engage and will be quickly
proceed as follows: destroyed under operation. The text refers you to Shiff
a. Remove the pinion bearing locking clip (19, Figure ShaftHeightAdjustrnent (later in this chapter) at the correct
25) from the drive shaft bore. Hook the ring with a time in the assembly sequence.
suitable tool or a long pair of needlenose pliers and
pull it from the bore. CAUTION
b. Position a shop towel in the gearcase bore, directly The screws (1 and 7, Figure 38) must be
under the bearing. securely tightened and the flat washer (2)
c. Assemble the components from the pinion bearing must be pe$ectly flat or the pinion bearing
kit (part No. 391257) as shown in Figure 37.
d. Insert the tool into the drive shaft bore. Drive against
the screw (1, Figure 37) with a soft-faced mallet
until the bearing is removed.
e. Discard the bearing.
@ PINION BEARING REMOVAL
(V4 SERIES GEARCASE)
25. I f either or both of the propshaft bearing carrier bear-
ings require replacement, pull the defective bearing(s)
from the carrier with a suitable bearing puller. Discard the
bearing(s).
26. Refer to Gearcase Cleaning and Inspection. Clean
and inspect all components as directed before beginning
reassembly procedures. 1. Screw (112 in. long)
2. Flat washer
(1 in. diameter)
3. Plate
(part No. 391260)
4. Threaded rod
(part No. 326582)
5. Remover/installcr
(part No. 326574)
6. Screw (1-114 in. long)
will not be correctly positioned in the next mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer
step. (3). Remove the installation tools.
e. Install a new O-ring on the pinion bearing retaining
1A. 90" models-If removed, a new pinion bearing must screw. Apply OMC Nut Lock to the threads of the
be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaft bore. screw and the O-ring. Then install and tighten the
Several components from the universal pinion bearing screw to 48-84 in.-lb. (5.4-9.5 N-m). See Figure 36.
removerlinstaller kit (part No. 391257) are required to 1B. 60" models-If removed, a new pinion bearing must
properly locate the bearing. To install a new bearing, be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaftbore.
proceed as follows: Several components from universal pinion bearing re-
a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore. moverlinstaller kit (part No. 391257) are required to prop
b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 38, using the erly locate the bearing. A special spacer (part No. 341437)
specified components of pinion bearing kit (part No. is required and is not part of the kit. To install a new
391257). Use spacer (part No. 326585) on 90"mod- bearing, proceed as follows:
els. Make sure the screws (1 and 7, Figure 38) are a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore.
securely tightened. b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 38, using the
c. Position the bearing over the installer (6, Figure 38) specified components of the pinion bearing kit (part
with the numbered side of the bearing against the No. 391257). Use spacer (part No. 341437) on 60"
tool's shoulder. models. Make sure the screws (1 and 7, Figure 38)
d. Insert the assembly into the drive shaft bore. Drive are securely tightened.
against the screw (1, Figure 38) with a soft-faced c. Position the bearing over the installer (6, Figure 38)
with the numbered side of the bearing against the
tool's shoulder.
d. Insert the assembly into the drive shaft bore. Drive
against the screw (1, Figure 38) with a soft-faced
mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer
PINION BEARING INSTALLATION (3). Remove the installation tools.
(V4 SERIES GEARCASE) e. Install the pinion bearing locking clip (19, Figure
25) into the drive shaft bore. Make sure the clip fully
expands into the groove just above the pinion bear-
ing.
1 2. If removed, install new bearings into the propshaft
2 bearing carrier as follows:
3 a. Position the carrier in a press with its propeller end
facing down (O-ring groove facing up).
1. Screw (112 In. long)
2. Flat washer 4 b. Lubricate a new large bearing (46, Figure 24 or 54,
(1 in. diameter) Figure 25) and position it into the carrier's bore with
3. Spacer (see text) the numbered side facing up.
4. Plate
(part No. 391260)
c. Press the bearing into position using the short shoul-
5. Threaded rod der of the bearing installer (part No. 326562) or an
(part No. 326582) equivalent mandrel. Press until the tool contacts the
6. lnstallerlremover bearing carrier.
(part No. 326574)
7. Screw (1-114 in. long)
d. Position the carrier in a press with the propeller end
facing up (O-ring groove facing down).
e. Lubricate a new small bearing (48, Figure 24 or 56,
Figure 25) and position it into the carrier's bore with
the numbered side facing up.
f. Press the bearing into position with the longer shoul-
der of bearing installer (part No. 326562) or an
equivalent mandrel. Press until the tool contacts the
bearing carrier.
3. If the anode on the propshaft bearing carrier was re-
moved, secure the anode to the carrier with two screws
CHAPTER NINE
(Figure 39). Evenly tighten both screws to 60-84 in.-lb. a. Lubricate the outer diameter of a new seal with OMC
(6.8-9.5 N.m). DPL (WD-40) Lubricant.
4A. Double seal models-Install two new propshaft seals b. Position the drive shaft bearing carrier in apress with
as follows:
a. Coat the outer diameter of each seal with OMC
-
the needle bearing end facing - down.
c. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal
Gasket Sealing Compound. installer (part No. 341439) or an equivalent mandrel.
b. Install the inner seal using the longer, stepped shoul- The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away
der of seal installer (part No. 326551) or an equiva- from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal
lent mandrel. The seal lip (spring side) must face into installer to protect the seal's lip.
the carrier bore. Press the seal until the installer
contacts the carrier. d. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con-
c. Install the outer seal using the shorter shoulder of the tacts the carrier.
seal installer (part No. 326551) or an equivalent e. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard
mandrel. The seal lip (spring side) must face out Grease.
from the carrier. Press the seal until the installer
contacts the carrier. NOTE
d. Lubricate the seal lips and pack the area between the In Step 7, make sure the O-ring is installed
seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Grease. in the groove closest to the carrier'spange.
If installed in the lower groove, the oil circu-
4B. Single seal models-Install a new propshaft seal as
lation passage will be blocked and the drive
follows: shaft bearing willfail prematurely.
a. Lubricate the outer diameter of a new seal with OMC
DPL (WD-40) Lubricant.
7. Coat a new O-ring (12, Figure 24 or 30, Figure 25)
b. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal
with OMC Triple Guard Grease. Install the O-ring into the
installer (part No. 342665) or an equivalent mandrel.
drive shaft bearing carrier's O-ring groove (groove closest
The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away
to the flange). See Figure 41.
from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal
installer to protect the seal's lip.
c. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con-
tacts the carrier.
d. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard
Grease.
5. Coat a new O-ring (45, Figure 24 or 53, Figure 25)
with OMC Triple Guard Grease. Install the O-ring into the
propshaft bearing carrier's O-ring groove. See A, Figure
40, typical.
6A. Double seal models-Install two new drive shaft seals
into the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows:
Gasket Sealing Compound.
b. Install the inner seal (with the flush lip) using the
longer, stepped shoulder of seal installkr No.
330268) or an equivalent mandrel. The seal lip
(spring side) must face into the carrier. Press the seal
until the installer contacts the carrier.
c. Install the outer seal (with the extended lip) using the
shorter shoulder of seal installer (part No. 330268)
or an equivalent mandrel. The extended lip must face
away (out) from the carrier. Press the seal until the
installer contacts the carrier.
d. Lubricate the seal lips and pack the area between the
seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
6B. Single seal models-Install a new drive shaft seal into
the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows:
CAUTZON spring may fly from the access hole with

The pinion gear must be precisely located in considerable force.
the drive shaft bore. If the shimming tool is
not available, take the drive shaft assembly 9. Assemble the forward gear bearing housing (Figure
to an Evinrude/Johnson dealership and have 34) as follows:
a qualified technician pefirm the proce- a. Support the bearing carrier so that the detent ball
dure. access hole (2, Figure 35) is pointing straight up.
b. Grease the detent spring and ball with OMC Needle
8. Refer to Pinion Gear Shimming (in this chapter) and Bearing Assembly Grease. Install the spring, then
determine the quantity of shims required to properly locate the ball into their bore. See Figure 42.
the pinion gear. Once the shims are selected, tag the shim c. Insert the shift detent lever (6, Figure 34) into its
pack and put away any extra shims to avoid confusion bore until it is almost touching the detent ball and
during assembly. spring. Position the head of the shift lever pointing
to either side of the bearing housing.
CAUTZON d. Insert a suitable screwdriver into the bottom of the
Use extreme care when installing the shift shift detent lever bore and compress the detent ball
detent lever in Step 9. The detent ball and and spring. While holding the ball and spring com-
pressed, push the shift detent lever into its bore until
it is flush with the bottom of the bore.
e. Insert the shift bellcrank lever through the hole at the
top of the bearing carrier. Rotate the shift lever (1,
Figure 35) until it points to the rear of the housing.
Engage the bellcrank tangs to the detent lever slots.
Then vush the shift detent lever down as far as
possible.
f. Grease the shift cradle with OMC Needle Bearing
Assembly Grease and set it into its groove in the shift
actuator rod. Insert the rod and cradle into the bear-
ing carrier and engage the cradle to the bellcrank
tangs.
g. Align the hole in the shift bellcrank with the hole in
the bearing carrier, then install the pivot pin.
10. Refer to Figure 34 and assemble the propeller shaft as
follows:
a. Install the forward gear thrust washer over the bear-
Oil circulation passage
must be open ing carrier and seat it on the housing's shoulder.
b. Apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to
the forward gear's thrust bearing face, then position
the thrust bearing onto the forward gear. Carefully
install the forward gear and bearing assembly into
the forward gear bearing carrier. Make sure the thrust
bearing and shift actuator rod are not displaced dur-
ing installation.
NOTE
The aft end of the clutch dog is stamped prop
end and the shift lugs are not splined.
c. Align the cross pin holes of the clutch dog with the
slot in the propeller shaft. Position the end of the
clutch dog stamped prop end toward the rear and
slide it onto the propeller shaft.
d. Carefully install the propshaft assembly to the for-
ward gear bearing carrier assembly. Insert the shift
410 CHAPTER NINE
actuator rod into the open end of the propshaft and 15. Position the shift shaft and housing assembly to the
the propshaft into the forward gear. gearcase. Thread the shift shaft into the shift detent lever
e. Align the hole in the shift actuator rod with the hole approximately four turns.
in the clutch dog, then install the clutch dog cross
pin. See Figure 43. NOTE
I f the propshaft assembly is seated in the
NOTE gearcase bore, the shift shaft housing will be
When installed correctly, the cross pin re- closely aligned to the gearcase deck. I f the
taining spring must layflat, with no overlap- screw holes are grossly misaligned, the for-
ping coils. There must be three wraps of wire ward bearing housing is not seated in its
over each end of the cross pin. bore or the alignment pin (Figure45) is not
aligned with its hole. Tap on the end of the
f. Secure the pin to the clutch dog- with a new retainer
spring. Do not open the spring any more than neces-
sary to install it. Install one end of the spring over
the clutch and into its groove. Then, using a small
screwdriver (or hooked tool) to guide the spring,
rotate the propeller shaft to wind the spring into
place (Figure 44). Make sure that no coils overlap
and that three wraps of wire are over each end of the
pin.
11. Make sure the shift detent lever is pushed down as far
as possible, then install the propshaft and forward gear
assembly into the gearcase bore (Figure 33). The detent
lever must be facing straight UP and the locating pin on
the bearing housing (Figure 45) must engage the corre-
/ sponding hole in the gearcase housing. Make sure the
assembly is seated in the bore and that the thrust washer
and bearing were not displaced during installation.
12. Lubricate two new shift shaft housing O-rings with
OMC Triple-Guard grease and install the O-rings into the
housing's O-ring groove(s). Some housings will use a
single wide groove to hold both O-rings, whle other
housings use two separate grooves. Examine the housing
and determine the groove configuration before installing
the O-rings. Use a blunt tool to seat each O-ring into its
groove.
NOTE
Make sure the grommet (17, Figure 25) is
1 installed on the shift shaft before inserting
the shift shaft through the shiji shaft housing.
On 90" extra-long shaft (25 in. [635 mm])
models, a plastic spacer is installed between
the grommet and the shift shaft housing.
13. Lubricate the threaded end of the shift shaft with OMC
Triple Guard Grease and insert it into the housing's brass
bushing. To prevent damaging the O-rings, rotate the shift
shaft (clockwise) until all of the threads pass through both
O-rings. Continue pushing the shift shaft through the hous-
ing until it is centered on the shaft.
14. Coat a new shift housing gasket with OMC Gasket
Sealing Compound. Then position the gasket on the gear-
case deck.
propshQfr with a sofr-faced hammer and use d. Carefully slide the drive shaft bearing carrier over
the shifr shaft to rotate the forward gear's the shaft, being careful not to damage the seals, then
bearing housing as necessary to ensure seat the carrier against the shims. Remove the seal
alignment and seating. protector or cellophane tape.
e. Coat the gearcase side of the drive shaft bearing
16. Coat the six shift shaft housing screws with OMC
carrier-to-gearcase housing mating surface (not the
Gasket Sealing Compound. Align the screw holes, then
bore) with a light coat of OMC Gasket Sealing
install and evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-
Compound.
9.5 N.m).
18. Install the drive shaft and pinion gear as follows:
17. Assemble the drive shaft components (Figure 46) as
follows: a. Clean the pinion gear and drive shaft tapered mating
surfaces thoroughly with OMC Cleaning Solvent,
a. Position the thrust bearing over the drive shaft and
acetone or a similar oil-free solvent.
against the thrust washer. Then install the thrust
washer over the shaft and against the thrust bearing. b. Pull up on the shift rod while rotating the propshaft
b. Position the predeterminedamount of shims over the to fully engage the FORWARD gear, Then rotate the
gearcase so that the drive shaft bore is pointing
drive shaft and against the thrust washer.
downward.
c. Install seal protector (part No. 318674) over the
c. Slide the pinion gear into the drive shaft bore (Fig-
splined end of the drive shaft, or wrap the splines
with a single layer of cellophane tape to protect the ure 47), then insert the drive shaft assembly into its
drive shaft seal@). bore and engage the pinion gear. Rotate the shaft as
necessary to engage the splines.
d. Lubricate the threads of a new pinion nut with out-
board lubricant, then install the new pinion nut using
@ DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
a suitable nut holder, such as pinionnut starter (p$
No. 342216). Tighten the nut finger-tight, then re-
(ALL MODELS) move the pinion nut starter.
e. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the four
drive shaft bearing carrier screws. Seat the carrier
into its bore with hand pressure and align the screw
holes. Install and evenly tighten the four bearing
carrier screws to 14-16 ft.-lb. (19.0-21.7 Nem).
19. Hold the pinion nut using a 718 in. wrench. Pad the
area around the wrench handle with shop towels to prevent
housing damage.
1. Two-piece drive
shaft assembly
2. Thrust bearing
3. Thrust washer
4. Shim(s)
5. O-ring
6. Drive shaft
bearlng carrier
7. Seal@)
8. Screw
CHAITER NINE
20. Install drive shaft spline socket part No. 311875 (or an coat the forward flange and O-ring with OMC Gasket
equivalently splined socket) and a torque wrench onto the Sealing Compound.
drive shaft splines. 27A. 90" models-Install the propshaft bearing carrier
21A. Using special tools-Install wrench retainer part No. over the propshaft, making sure the word UP cast into the
341438 over the propshaft and pinion nut wrench to hold rear flange is pointing straight up, the anode is pointing
the wrench in position. Firmly hold the propshaft and straight down and the guide pins are entering the appropri-
pinion nut wrench assembly centered in the gearcase bore ate holes in the carrier.
(Figure 31, typical). Turn the drive shaft to tighten the 27B. 60" models-Install the propshaft bearing carrier
pinion nut to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9-108.5 N.m). Remove the over the propshaft, making sure the anode is pointing
tools when finished. straight down and the retaining screw holes are vertical.
21B. Using 7/8 in. wrench-Hold the wrench firmly 28. Push the carrier into the gearcase bore until it is seated.
against the propshaft. See Figure 31, typical. Turn the If necessary, tap the carrier with a wooden dowel and
drive shaft to tighten the pinion nut to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9- suitable mallet. Do not attempt to pull the carrier into
108.5 N.m). Remove the tools when finished. position with its mounting screws.
22. Lubricate the reverse gear thrust bearing and thrust 29A. 90" models-Install new O-rings on the four carrier
washer. Install the bearing, then the washer over the reverse screws. Then coat the screw threads and O-rings with
gear's hub. OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install screws into the
23. Slidethe reverse gear assembly over the propshaft and two open carrier holes and engage the retaining ring
into position in the gearcase bore. Make sure that the threads. Do NOT tighten the screws at this time.
washers and bearing are not displaced during installation. a. Remove the guide pins from the other carrier screw
See Figure 48. holes. Then install the remaining two screws into the
24. 90" models--Slide the retaining plate (43, Figure 24) holes and engage the retaining ring threads. Once all
over the propshaft and into the gearcase bore. There is no screws engage the retaining ring threads, tighten all
specific orientation for the plate. four screwsfinger-tight.
WARNING b. Evenly tighten the four carrier mounting screws to
The retaining rings (44, Figure 24) are un- 120-144 in.-lb. (13.6-16.3 N-m) in a minimum of
der extreme pressure. Wear suitable eye and three progressive stages.
hand protection when removing and install- 29B. 60" models--Coat the threads of the two carrier
ing the retaining rings. retaining screws with OMC Ultra Lock threadlocking ad-
hesive. Position the carrier retaining tabs over the screw
CAUTION holes and engage them into the notches in the gearcase
Do not drag the open ends of the retaining bore. Secure each retainer with a screw and washer (Figure
rings in the gearcase bore during installa- 27). Tighten the screws to 24-26 ft.-lb. (32.5-35.3 N.m).
tion. This will scratch the bore, resulting in
the carrier's O-ring being damaged when 30. Test the integrity of the gearcase seals, gaskets and
the carrier is installed. O-rings as described in Gearcase Pressure and Vacuum
Testing.
25. 90" models-Install the two retaining rings as follows: 31. Adjust the shift shaft height as described in ShiftShafr
a. Position the first ring over the propshaft and against Height Adjustment, in this chapter. Failure to properly set
the end of the gearcase bore. Engage a pair of snap the shift shaft height will result in premature gear failure.
ring pliers to the ring.
b. Compress the ring, pushing it into its bore as soon
as it will fit. Continue to compress the ring as nec-
sssary to install the ring into the lower groove, then
carefully release the ring, making sure it completely
expands and seats in its groove.
c. Repeat this procedure for the second ring. Install the
second ring in the upper groove.
d. Install two 1/4-28thread X 10 in. long rods into two
opposing threaded holes in the retainer plate. Do not
thread the guide pins more than two or three turns
into the plate.
26. Apply a light coat of OMC RTV Black Silicone
Sealant to the propshaft bearing carrier's rear flange. Then
32. Install the water pump as described previously in this to the propshaft. Then tighten the pressing screw to
chapter. pull the carrier from the gearcase. See Figure 52,
33. Fill the gearcase with the recommended lubricant as typical.
described in Chapter Four. d. Once free,pull the carrier from the gearcase bore.
34. Install the gearcase as described previously in this Remove and discard the O-ring (58, Figure 49) from
chapter. the front (inner) support flange. If equipped with an
O-ring on the rear support flange (60), remove and
discard it.
Disassembly
5B. V8 series gearcase-Using components of universal
(V6 and V8 Series Standard Rotation Gearcase)
puller kit part No. 378103 (or an equivalent puller) and two
Both series of gearcases are available in standard-rota- part No. 330278 puller arms (or equivalent), remove the
tion or counter-rotation models. The following procedure propshaft bearing carrier.
covers standard-rotation models only. a. Position the puller head (part No. 307636) and press-
The propshaft bearing carrier is held in the gearcase ing screw (part No. 307637) over the propshaft.
housing by two tabbed washers, screws and washers. b. Hook each puller arm around a support leg (on
The bearing in the forward gear bearing housing (38, opposing sides of the carrier's rear flange), then
Figure 49) and the pinion bearing (14, Figure 49) are of insert the arm through a slot in the puller head. Lock
the loose roller design. The rollers will fall out of these each arm into the puller head's Slot with the pin
bearings during disassembly. This is normal. attached to each arm.See Figure 53.
Slightly different housings are used on the offshore V6 c. Insert the handle (part No. 307638) into the puller
(Oceanprop and OceanRunner) models. These models use head to stabilize the assembly, then tighten the press-
a gearcase with externally mounted water inlet screens ing screw to pull the carrier from the gearcase. See
(Figure 50). These screens can be cleaned or replaced Figure 53.
without removing the gearcase from the outboard motor. d. Once free, pull the carrier from the gearcase bore.
All other V6 and all V8 models use internal water inlet Remove and discard the O-rings on the front (inner)
screen(s) that require the water pump be removed to re- and rear support flanges (58 and 60, Figure 49).
place the screen(~).See 22 and 23, Figure 49. 6. Rotate the gearcase until the reverse gear and its thrust
Refer to Figure 49 for this procedure. Record the loca- bearing and thrust washers slide out. Be prepared to catch
tion, orientation and thickness of all shims and thrust the components. Make sure you locate and secure the
washers removed from the gear housing during disassem- thrust washer (53, Figure 49) between the front of the
bly, so that they may be correctly reinstalled. reverse gear and the propshaft flange. Once the gear,
The propshaft bearing carrier can be removed without bearing and washers are removed, reposition the gearcase
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor, if so so that the drive shaft is pointing straight up.
desired. Do not attempt to remove the propshaft without 7. Remove the four screws securing the drive shaft bearing
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor. carrier (3, Figure 49) to the gearcase. Do not remove the
1. Drain the gearcase lubricant as described in Chapter carrier at this time.
Four. 8. Pull up on the shift shaft while rotating the propeller
2. Remove the gearcase as described in this chapter. shaft to engage the FORWARD gear and allow a wrench
3. Remove the water pump as described in this chapter. to be installed onto the pinion nut.
4. Remove the two screws, flat washers and tabbed wash- 9. Hold the pinion nut using a 718 in. wrench. Pad the area
ers securing the propshaft bearing carrier in the gearcase around the wrench handle with shop towels to prevent
bore. See Figure 51, typical. housing damage.
5A. V6 series gearcase-Using a suitable puller and two 10. Install drive shaft spline socket part No. 311875 (or an
5/16-18 x 11 in. threaded rods, remove the propshaft equivalently splined socket) and a breaker bar onto the
bearing carrier. drive shaft splines.
a. Position the puller over the propshaft. 11A. Using special tools-Install wrench retainer (part
b. Install the two threaded rods through the puller and No. 341438) over the propshaft and pinion nut wrench to
into the screw holes on the rear flange of the carrier. hold the wrench in position. Firmly hold the propshaft and
Thread the rods as far as possible into the carrier. pinion nut wrench assembly centered in the gearcase bore
c. Install a flat washer and nut over each rod. Tighten (Figure 54, typical). Loosen and remove the pinion nut by
the nuts until they are snug against the puller head. turning the drive shaft counterclockwise until the nut is
Adjust the nuts to make sure the puller head is square free fromthe shaft. Remove the nut from the gearcase bore.
414 CHAPTER NINE
V6 AND V8 SERIES GEARCASE

ASSEMBLY (TYPICAL)
1. Drive shaft seal@) 33. Speedometer passage

2. Screw seal (V6 series)
3. Drive shaft 34. Speedometer pickup fitting
bearing carrier and cap (V6 series)
4. O-ring 35. Vent plug and seal
5. Shim@) 36. Drainlfill plug and seal
6. Thrust washer 37. Shift detent lever
7. Thrust bearing 38. Forward gear
8. Upper drive shaft bearing housing
9. Roll pin 39. Alignment pin
10. Drive shaft retainer 40. Detent spring
11. Lower drive shaft 41. Detent ball
12. Pinion bearing 42. Pivot pin
locking clip (V6 series) 43. Shift cradle
13. Pinion bearing locking 44. Shift bellcrank
screw and seal (V8 series) 45. Shift actuator rod
14. Pinion (lower 46. Forward gear
drive shaft) bearing thrust washer
15. Pinion gear 47. Forward gear
16. Pinion nut thrust bearing
17. Anode 48. Forward gear
18. Anode screw 49. Clutch dog
19. Trim tab gasket 50. Clutch dog cross pin
(V8 series) 51. Cross pin retaining spring
20. Trim tab 52. Propeller shaft
21. Trim tab screw 53. Thrust washer
22. Water inlet screens 54. Reverse gear
(V8 series) 55. Reverse gear thrust bearing
23. Water inlet screen (V6 series 56. Reverse gear thrust washer
[except offshore models]) 57. Large needle bearing
24. Water inlet screen 58. O-ring
screw (V8 series) 59. Propshaft bearing carrier
25. Shift shaft 60. O-ring
26. Grommet 61. Small needle bearing
27. Spacer (25 and 62. Propshaft seal@)
30 in. models) 63. Tabbed washer
28. Screw and washer 64. Flat washer
29. Shift shaft housing 65. Screw
30. Gasket 66. Anode
31. Shift shaft O-rings 67. Anode screw
32. Speedometer passage
plug (V6 series)
CHAPTER NINE
11B. Using 7/8 in. wrench-Hold the wrench firmly 46. Measure and record the thickness of the shirn(s) for
against the propshaft. See Figure 54, typical. Then loosen later reference. Tag the shim(s) for identification during
and remove the pinion nut by turning the drive shaft reassembly.
counterclockwise until the nut is free from the shaft. Re- 15. Remove and discard the drive shaft bearing carrier's
move the nut from the gearcase bore. O-ring (5, Figure 46).
NOTE 16. Rotate the gearcase until the pinion gear and the loose
The lower drive shaft (pinion) bearing con- rollers from the pinion bearing slide out. Be prepared to
tains 18 (V6 series) or 19 (V8 series) loose catch the components. Once the gear is removed and the
rollers that will fall out during drive shaft
removal. Retrieve all rollers from the hous-
ing.
12. Pull the drive shaft assembly from its bore. If the
pinion gear sticks to the drive shaft, proceed as follows:
key's flat.
then tighten the set screw against h e drive shaft's
flat.
e. Remove the tools when finished. Proceed to Step 14.
13. If the upper drive shaft pulled free from the lower drive
shaft in the previous step, proceed as follows:
a. Assemble lower drive shaft puller (part No. 342681)
to a suitable slide hammer.
b. Hook the open end of the drive shaft puller under the
roll pin in the lower drive shaft.
c. Using the slide hammer, pull the lower drive shaft
from the gearcase housing.
d. Remove the tools when finished. Remove and dis-
card the roll pin and drive shaft retainer.
14. Slide the drive shaft bearing carrier, shim(s), thrust
washer and thrust bearing from the drive shaft. See Figure
loose rollers are secured,reposition the gearcase so that the

drive shaft is pointing straight up.
CARRIER REMOVAL 17. Push the shift shaft downward as far as possible. Then
(V8 SERIES [STANDARD ROTATIONI) unthread the shlft shaft until it is free from the shift detent
lever (37, Figure 49). The detent lever must remain in the
fully down position in order to remove the propshaft
assembly.
18. Remove the six screws securing the shift shaft housing
to the gearcase deck. If necessary, tap the housing with a
soft-faced hammer to break it free.Then remove the hous-
and discard the cover gasket.
19. Pull the shift shaft from the shift shaft housing. Re-
move the housing's two O-rings (31, Figure 49) from the
shift shaft bore with a seal pick or other hooked tool.
Discard the O-rings.
20. Grasp the propeller shaft and pull the propshaft assem-
bly from the gearcase (Figure 56). If it catches, make sure
1. Puller arms
(part No. 330278)
2. Puller body and screw
3. Handle
4. Wrench (or socket)
CHAPTER NINE
the draidfill plug is removed and that the shift detent lever a suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore
is pushed downward as far as possible. Set the assembly during the removal process. Discard the seal(s).
on a clean workbench.
NOTE CAUTION
The bearing in theforward bearing housing The lower drive shaft (pinion)bearing must
contains 25 loose rollers that will fall out be pulled up and out of the drive shaft bore.
during propeller shaft disassembly. Locate If the bearing is driven out the bottom of the
and secure all 25 rollers. drive shaft bore, the gearcase will be irrepa-
rably damaged.
21. Refer to Figure 57 and disassemble the propshaft as
follows:
a. Remove and discard the clutch dog cross pin's re-
taining spring with a small screwdriver or awl. Insert
the tool under one end of the spring and rotate the
1 PROPSHAFT ASSEMBLY
(V6 AND V8 SERIES GEARCASE
propeller shaft to unwind the spring. See Figure 58.
[STANDARD ROTATIOND
b. Using a small punch, push the cross pin out of the
clutch dog. Then slide the forward gear and bearing
housing assembly and the clutch dog off the front of
the propshaft.
c. Separate the forward gear, thrust bearing and thrust
washer from the bearing housing.
d. Using a small punch, push the pivot pin from the
bearing housing, then pull the actuator rod and cra-
dle from the bearing housing. Lift the cradle from
the rod. Finally, remove the shift bellcrank from the
bearing housing.
CAUTION
Use extreme care when removing the shift
detent level: The detent ball and spring may
fly from the access hole (2, Figure 59) with
considerableforce.
e. Cover the detent ball and spring access hole (2,
Figure 59) with a shop towel, then rotate the shift
detent lever 90" to either side and pull the lever (1)
from the bearing housing. Locate and secure the
detent ball and spring. 1. Forward gear
f. Remove the 25 loose roller bearings from the for- bearing housing
ward bearing housing. 2. Detent spring
3. Detent ball
NOTE 4. Pivot pin
The bearings in the forward gear bearing 5. Shift actuator rod
housing and the drive shaft bearing carrier 6. Shift detent lever
7. Shift cradle
are not serviceable. If the bearings a d o r 8. Shift bellcrank
the housings are worn or damaged, replace 9. Thrust washer
the bearing housing (or bearing carrier) as 10. Thrust bearing
an assembly. 11. Forward gear
12. Clutch dog cross pin
22. Remove the drive shaft seal@)from the drive shaft 13. Clutch dog
bearing carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore 14. Cross pin retaining
with a suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore spring
15. Propeller shaft
23. Remove the propshaft seal(s) from the propshaft bear-
ing carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore with
24. If the lower drive shaft (pinion) bearing requires re- gearcase. The screw is easily identified by its
placement, reinstall the 18 or 19 loose rollers into the Posidriv screw head. The screw is located just in
pinion bearing. Use OMC Needle Bearing Assembly front of the starboard water inlet screen as shown in
Grease to hold the rollers in place. The rollers must be Figure 36, typical. Remove and discard the O-ring
installed for the remover to have an adequate surface to from the screw.
pull against. 25. To remove the pinion bearing, several components
a. V6 series gearcase-Remove the pinion bearing from pinion bearing kit (part No. 391257) or equivalent
locking clip (12, Figure 49) from the drive shaft tools are required.
bore. Hook the ring with a suitable tool or a long pair a. Assemble the components from the pinion bearing
of needlenose pliers and pull it from the bore. kit part No. 391257 (except the remover) as shown
b. V8 series gearcase-Remove the bearing retaining in Figure 60.
screw (13, Figure 49) from the starboard side of the b. Insert the tool into the drive shaft bore. Hold the
remover (4, Figure 60) under the pinion bearing and
thread it fully onto the rod (3).
c. Tighten the flanged nut (1, Figure 60) to pull the
bearing up and out of the drive shaft bore. If the
remover rotates, hold it stationary with a suitable
wrench.
d. Discard the bearing.
26. If either or both of the propshaft bearing carrier's
a
bearings (57 and 61, Figu 49) require replacement, pull
the defective bearing(s) fr m the carrier with a suitable
bearing puller, such as two-jaw puller head (part No.
432129) and puller bridge, threaded rod and support plate
(part No. 432127). Discard the bearing(s).
PINION BEARING REMOVAL

(V6 AND V8 SERIES GEARCASE)
1. Flanged nut
(part No. 326586)
2. Plate
(part No. 391260)
3. Threaded rod
(part No. 326582)
4. Removerlinstaller
(part No. 326574)
1. Shift detent lever

2. Detent ball access hole
CHAPTER NINE
27. Refer to Gearcase Cleaning and Inspection. Clean mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer
and inspect all components as directed before beginning (3). Then remove the installation tools.
reassembly procedures. e. Install the pinion bearing locking clip (12, Figure
49) into the drive shaft bore. Make sure the clip fully
Assembly expands into the groove just above the pinion bear-
(V6 and VS Series Standard Rotation Gearcases) ing.
1B. V8 series gearcase-If removed, a new pinion bearing
Lubricate all internal componentswith OMC Ultra HPF must be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaft
Gear Lube. Do not assemble components dry. Refer to bore. Several components from universal pinion bearing
Table 2 for torque values and Table 3 for specifications. removerlinstaller kit (part No. 391257) are required to
Refer to Figure 49 for this procedure. properly locate the bearing. A special installer (part No.
The pinion gear is precisely located by a shimming 328828) is required and is not part of the kit. To install a
process. The shimming should be verified during any new bearing, proceed as follows:
major disassembly, but if the pinion gear, drive shaft, drive a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore.
shaft bearing carrier or the drive shaft thrust washer or Make sure all of the 19loose rollers are held in place
thrust bearing have been replaced, the pinion gear must be with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease.
shimmed. The text refers you to Pinion Gear Shimming (in
b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 62, using the
this chapter) at the correct time in the assembly sequence.
specified components of pinion bearing kit (part No.
The shift shaft must be adjusted to a specific height in 391257) and the special installer (part No. 328828).
NEUTRAL gear. Failure to properly adjust the shift shaft
will cause the shift system to be biased toward one gear.
The other gear will not properly engage and will be quickly
destroyed under operation. The text refers you to Shift
Shafr HeightAdjustment(in this chapter) at the correct time PINION BEARING INSTALLATION
in the assembly sequence. (ve SERIES GEARCASE)
CAUTION
The s c m s (1 and 8, Figure 61 or 1 and 7,
Figure 62) must be securely tightened and
the flat washer (2, Figure 61 or Figure 62) 1
must be perfectly flat or the pinion bearing
will not be correctly positioned in the next
step.
1. Screw (112 in. long)
2. Flat washer
1A. V6 series gearcase-If removed, a new pinion bearing (1 in. diameter)
must be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaft 3. Spacer
bore. Several components from universal pinion bearing (part NO. 326584)
removerlinstaller kit (part No. 391257) are required to 4. Plate
properly locate the bearing. To install a new bearing, (part No. 391260)
5. Threaded rod
proceed as follows: (part No. 326582)
a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore. 6. Special washer
Make sure all of the 18loose rollers are held in place (part No. 326587)
with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease. 7. lnstallerlremover 5
(part No. 326574)
b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 61, using the 8. Screw (1-114 in. long)
specified componentsof pinion bearing kit (part No.
391257). Make sure the screws (1 and 8, Figure 61)
are securely tightened. 6
c. Position the bearing over the installer (7, Figure 61) 7
with the numbered side of the bearing against the
special washer (6).
d. Pilot the assembly into the drive shaft bore. Drive
Make sure the screws (1 and 7, Figure 62) are 3. If removed, install a new small bearing (61, Figure 49)
securely tightened. into the propshaft bearing carrier as follows:
c. Position the bearing over the installer (6, Figure 62) a. Position the carrier in a press with the propeller end
with the numbered side of the bearing against the facing up.
tool's shoulder. b. Lubricate a new small bearing (61, Figure 49) and
position it into the carrier's bore with the numbered
side facing up.
c. Press the bearing into position with the longer shoul-
mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer
der of bearing installer part No. 340820 (V8 and
(3). Remove the installation tools.
1996-1998 V6 series) or part No. 339750 (1995 V6
e. Install a new O-ring on the pinion bearing retaining series) or an equivalent mandrel. Press until the tool
screw (Figure 36). Apply OMC Nut Lock to the contacts the bearing carrier.
threads of the screw and the O-ring. Then install and 4. If the anode on the propshaft bearing carrier was re-
tighten the screw to 48-84 in.-lb. (5.4-9.5 N.m). moved, secure the anode to the carrier with two screws
2. Ifremoved, install a new large bearing (57, Figure 49) (Figure 39, typical). Evenly tighten both screws to 60-84
into the propshaft bearing carrier as follows: in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
a. Position the carrier in a press with its propeller end 5. Install a new propshaft seal as follows:
facing- down. a. Lubricate the outer diameter of anew seal with OMC
b. Lubricate a new large bearing (57, Figure 49) and DPL (WD-40) Lubricant.
position it into the carrier's bore with the numbered b. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal
side facing up. installer (part No. 341439) or an equivalentmandrel.
The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away
c. Press the bearing into position using the short shoul- from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal
der of bearing installer (part No. 339750) or an installer to protect the seal's lip.
equivalent mandrel. Press until the tool contacts the c. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con-
bearing carrier. tacts the carrier;
d. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard
Grease.
6. Coat a new 0-ring(s) with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
PINION BEARING INSTALLATION Install the 0-ring(s) into the propshaft bearing carrier'
(V8 SERIES GEARCASE) O-ring groove(s).
7A. Double seal models-Install two new drive shaft s
into the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows:
1
a. Coat the outer diameter of each seal with 0
2 Gasket Sealing Compound.
3 b. Install the inner seal (with the flush lip) using
longer, stepped shoulder of seal installer (part No.
1. Screw (112 in. long) 4 330268) or an equivalent mandrel. The seal lip
2. Flat washer
(1 in. diameter) (spring side) must face into the carrier. Press the seal
3. Spacer until the installer contacts the carrier.
(part No. 326584) c. Install the outer seal (with the extended lip) using the
4. Plate (part No. 391260) shorter shoulder of seal installer (part No. 330268)
5. Threaded rod
(part No. 326582) or an equivalent mandrel. The extended lip must fa
6. Installer away (out) from the carrier. Press the seal until
(part No. 328828) installer contacts the carrier.
7. Screw (1-114 in. long) d. Lubricate the seal lips and pack the area between
seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
7B. Single seal models-Install a new drive shaft seal
the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows:
a. Lubricate the outer diameter of a new seal with 0
DPL (WD-40) Lubricant.
b. Position the drive shaftbearing carrier in a press
the needle bearing end facing down.
CHAPTER NINE
c. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal and spring. While holding the ball and spring com-
installer (part No. 341439) or an equivalentmandrel. pressed, push the shift detent lever into its bore until
The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away it is flush with the bottom of the bore and has
from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal displaced the screwdriver.
installer to protect the seal's lip. e. Install the 25 loose rollers into the bearing race. Use
d. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con- OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to hold the
tacts the carrier. rollers in place.
e. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard f. Insert the shift bellcrank lever through the hole at the
Grease. top of the bearing carrier. Rotate the shift lever until
NOTE it points to the rear of the housing (1,Figure 59) and
In Step 8, make sure the O-ring is installed engage the bellcrank tangs to the detent lever slots.
in the groove closest to the carrier'sflange Then push the shift detent lever down as far as
(Figure 63).Ifinstalled in the lower groove, possible.
the oil circulation passage will be blocked g. Align the hole in the shift bellcrank with the hole in
and the drive shaft bearing will fail prema- the bearing carrier, then install the pivot pin.
turely.
8. Coat a new O-ring (4, Figure 49) with OMC Triple

Guard Grease. Install the O-ring into the drive shaft bear-
ing carrier's O-ring groove (groove closest to the flange).
See Figure 63.
CAUTION
The pinion gear must be precisely located in
the drive shaft bore. Zf the shimming tool is
not available, take the drive shaft assembly
to an Evinrude/Johnson dealership and have
a qualified technician pegorm the proce-
dure.
9. Refer to Pinion Gear Shimming (in this chapter) and

determine the quantity of shims required to properly locate
the pinion gear. Once the shims are selected, tag the shim
pack and put away any extra shims to avoid confusion
during assembly. Oil circulation passage
must be open
CAUTION
Use extreme care when installing the shift
detent lever in Step 10. The detent ball and
spring may jly from the access hole with
considerableforce.
10. Assemble the forward gear bearing housing (Figure
57) as follows:
a. Support the bearing carrier so that the detent ball
access hole (2, Figure 59) is pointing straight up.
b. Grease the detent spring and ball with OMC Needle
Bearing Assembly Grease. Install the spring, then
the ball into their bore. See Figure 64.
c. Insert the shift detent lever (6, Figure 57) into its
bore until it is almost touching the detent ball and
spring. Position the head of the shift lever pointing
off to either side of the bearing housing.
d. Insert a suitable screwdriver into the bottom of the
shift detent lever bore and compress the detent ball
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIW UNITS 423
h. Grease the shift cradle with OMC Needle Bearing install the forward gear and bearing assembly into
Assembly Grease and set it into its groove in the shift the forward gear bearing carrier.Make surethe thrust
actuator rod. Insert the rod and cradle into the bear- bearing and shift actuator rod and shift cradle are not
ing carrier and engage the cradle to the bellcrank displaced during installation.
tangs.
NOTE
11. Refer to Figure 57 and assemble the propeller shaft as
The aft end of the clutch dog is stamped prop
follows: end.
a. Install the forward gear thrust washer over the bear-
ing carrier and seat it on the housing's shoulder. c. Align the cross pin holes of the clutch dog with the
b. Apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to slot in the propeller shaft. Position the end of the
the forward gear's thrust bearing face, then position clutch dog stamped prop end toward the rear and
the thrust bearing onto the forward gear. Carefully slide it onto the propeller shaft.
d. Carefully install the propshaft assembly to the for-
ward gear bearing carrier assembly. Insert the shift
actuator rod into the open end of the propshaft and
the propshaft into the forward gear.
e. Align the hole in the shift actuator rod with the hole
in the clutch dog, then install the clutch dog cross
pin. See Figure 65.
NOTE
When installed correctly, the cross pin re-
taining spring must layflat, with no overlap-
ping coils. There must be three wraps of wire
over each end of the cross pin.
f. Secure the pin to the clutch dog with a new retainer

- - Do not open the spring
spring. - - k y more than neces-
sary to install it, Install one end of the spring over
screwdriver or hooked tool to guide the spring, rotate
the propeller shaft to wind the spring into place
(Figure 66). Make sure no coils overlap and that
three wraps of wire are over each end of the pin.
as possible, then install the propshaft and forward gear
assembly into the gearcase bore (Figure 56). The detent
lever must be facing straight UP and the locating pin on
the bearing housing (Figure 67) must engage the corre-
sponding hole in the gearcase housing. Make sure the
assemblv is seated in the bore and that the thrust washer
and bearing were not displaced during installation.
13. Lubricate two new shift shaft housing O-rings with
OMC Triple-Guard grease and install the O-rings into the
housing's O-ring groove(s). Some housings will use a
single wide groove to hold both O-rings, while other
housings will use two separate grooves. Examine the hous-
ing and determine the groove configuration before install-
ing the O-rings. Use a blunt tool to seat each O-ring into
its groove.
NOTE
Make sure the grommet (26, Figure 49) is
installed onto the shift shaft before inserting
CHAPTER NINE
the shift shaft through the shift shaft housing. bore) with a light coat of OMC Gasket Sealing
On extra-long (25 in. [635 mm]) and extra, Compound.
extra-long (30 in. [762 rnrn]) shafr models, a 19. Install the drive shaft and pinion gear as follows:
plastic spacer (27) is installed between the
grommet and the shzji shaft housing. Some a. Clean the pinion gear and drive shaft tapered mating
30 in. (762 mm) models use two plastic spac- surfaces thoroughly with OMC Cleaning Solvent,
ers stacked on top of each othel: acetone, or a similar oil-free solvent.
14. Lubricate the threaded end of the shift shaft with OMC b. Pull up on the sh& rod while rotating the propshaft
Triple Guard Grease and insert it into the housing's brass to fully engage FORWARD gear. Then rotate the
bushing. To prevent damaging the O-rings, rotate the shift gearcase so that the drive shaft bore is pointing
shaft clockwise until all of the threads pass through both downward.
O-rings. Continue pushing the shift shaft through the hous- c. Slide the pinion gear into position (Figure 47, typi-
ing until it is centered on the shaft. cal), then insert the drive shaft assembly into its bore
15. Coat a new shift housing gasket with OMC Gasket and engage the pinion gear. Rotate the shaft as
Sealing Compound. Then position the gasket on the gear- necessary to engage the splines.
case deck. d. Lubricate the threads of a new pinion nut with out-
16. Position the shift shaft and housing assembly to the board lubricant. Then install the new pinion nut
gearcase. Thread the shift shaft into the shlft detent lever using a suitable nut holder, such as pinion nut starter
approximately four turns. (part No. 342216). Tighten the nut finger-tight, then
remove the pinion nut starter.
N r n
I f the propshaft assembly is seated in the
gearcase bore, the shift shaft housing will be
closely aligned to the gearcase deck. I f the
screw holes are grossly misaligned, the for-
ward bearing housing is not seated in its
@ DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
(ALL MODELS)
bore or the alignment pin (Figure67) is not
aligned with its hole. Tap on the end of the
propshaft with a soft-faced hammer and use
the shift shaft to rotate the forward gear's
bearing housing as necessary to ensure
alignment and seating.
17. Coat the six shift shaft housing screws with OMC
Gasket Sealing Compound. Align the screw holes, then
install and evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-
9.5 N.m).
18. Assemble the drive shaft components (Figure 68) as
follows:
a. Position the thrust bearing over the drive shaft and
against the thrust washer. Then install the thrust
washer over the shaft and against the thrust bearing.
1
b. Position the predetermined amount of shims over the
drive shaft and against the thrust washer.
c. Install seal protector (part No. 318674) over the 1. Two-piece drive
shalt assembly
splined end of the drive shaft, or wrap the splines 2. Thrust bearing
with a single layer of cellophane tape to protect the 3. Thrust washer
drive shaft seal(s). 4. Shim@)
d. Carefully slide the drive shaft bearing carrier over 5. O-ring
6. Drive shaft
the shaft, being careful not to damage the seals, then
bearing carrier
seat the carrier against the shims. Remove the seal 7. Seal@)
protector or cellophane tape. 8. Screw
e. Coat the gearcase side of the drive shaft bearing
carrier-to-gearcase housing mating surface (not the
e. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the four 29. Coat the threads of the two carrier retaining screws
drive shaft bearing carrier screws. Seat the carrier with OMC Ultra Lock threadlocking adhesive. Position the
into its bore with hand pressure and align the screw carrier retaining tabs over the screw holes and engage them
holes. Install and evenly tighten the four bearing into the notches in the gearcase bore. Secure each retainer
carrier screws to 14-16 ft.-lb. (19.0-21.7 N-m). with a screw and washer (Figure 51). Tighten the screws
20. Hold the pinion nut using pinion nut wrench (part No. to 24-26 ft.-lb. (32.5-35.3 N.m).
334455) or a 718 in. wrench. Pad the area around the 30. Test the integrity of the gearcase seals, gaskets and
wrench handle with shop towels to prevent housing dam- O-rings as described in Gearcase Pressure and Vacuum
age. Testing.
21. Install srive shaft spline socket part No. 311875 (or an 3 1. Adjust the shift shaft height as described in Shift Shaft
equivalently splined socket) and a torque wrench onto the Height Adjustment, in this chapter. Failure to properly set
drive shaft splines. the shift shaft height will result in premature gear failure.
22A. Using special tools-Install wrench retainer (part 32. Install the water pump as described previously in this
No. 341438) over the propshaft and pinion nut wrench to chapter.
hold the wrench in position. Firmly hold the propshaft and 33. Fill the gearcase with the recommended lubricant as
pinion nut wrench assembly centered in the gearcase bore described in Chapter Four.
(Figure 54, typical). Turn the drive shaft to tighten the
34. Install the gearcase as described previously in this
pinion nut to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9-108.5 N.m) on V6 series
chapter.
gearcases and 100-110 ft-lb. (135.6-149.1 N.m) on V8
series gearcases. Remove the tools when finished.
22B. Using 7/8 in. wrench-Hold the wrench firmly Disassembly
against the propshaft. See Figure 54, typical. Turn the (V6 and VS Counter-Rotation Series Gearcase)
drive shaft to tighten the pinion nut to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9-
108.5 N-m) on V6 series gearcases and 100-110 ft-lb. Both of these gearcases are available in standard-rota-
(135.6-149.1 N.m) on V8 series gearcases. Remove the tion or counter-rotation models. The following procedure
tools when finished. covers counter-rotation models only.
23. Coat the reverse gear's inner thrust washer (53, Figure Counter-rotation gearcases use the same upper compo-
49) with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease, then nents and gear housing as standard-rotationgearcases. The
position the thrust washer into the recess in the face of the
trim tab, gear set and all of the propshaft components are
gear.
unique to counter-rotation models. See Figure 69 (V6
24. Lubricate the reverse gear thrust bearing and thrust
series) or Figure 70 (V8 series). The trim tab has different
washer. Install the bearing, then the washer over the reverse
thrust curves cast into it to compensate for the reverse-ro-
gear's hub.
tation of the propeller.
25. Slide the reverse gear assembly over the propshaft and
into position in the gearcase bore. Make sure that the Because of the use of many of the same components as
washers and bearing are not displaced during installation. the standard-rotation gearcases, the following procedure
See Figure 48, typical. refers you to selected illustrations from the standard-rota-
26. Apply a light coat of OMC RTV Black Silicone tion Disassembly/Assembly sections as appropriate.
Sealant to the propshaft bearing carrier's rear flange (and To achieve counter-rotation, a special bearing housing
0-ring[s], if so equipped). Then coat the forward (inner) and shift mechanism is used to reverse the clutch dog
flange and O-ring@) with OMC Gasket Sealing Com- movement. The gear at the front of the housing is now
pound. reverse gear and the gear at the rear of the housing (in the
27. Install the propshaft bearing carrier over the propshaft, propshaft bearing carrier) is now forward gear. There are
making sure the anode is pointing straight down and the no changes to the power head, remote control linkages or
retaining screw holes are vertical. the midsection.
28. Push the carrier into the gearcasebore until it is seated. On V6 series gearcases, the shift bellcrank engages an
If necessary, tap the carrier with a wooden dowel and extended shift actuator rod in front of the bearing housing.
suitable mallet. Do not attempt to pull the carrier into See Figure 69. On V8 series gearcases, the shift bellcrank
position with its mounting screws. and pivot pin are located at the bottom of the bearing
NOTE housing. See Figure 70.
Zfthe retaining tabs (63, Figure 49) have one The bearing in the reverse gear bearing housing at the
side with rounded edges, position that side front of the gearcase (33, Figure 69 or 27, Figure 70) and
toward thefront of the gearcase. the pinion bearing (14, Figure 49) are of the loose roller
426 CHAPTER NINE
COUNTER-ROTATION COMPONENTS
Q /I6
1. Propshaft seal 21. Thrust bearing

2. Small bearing 22. Forward gear
4. Propshaft bearing carrier retainingspring
5. Tabbed washer 24. Cross pin
6. Flat washer 25. Clutch dog
7. Screw 26. Clutch shaft
8. Anode 27. Reverse gear
9. Screw 28. Thrust bearing
10. Large bearing 29. Thrust washer
11. O-ring 30. Shift actuator rod
12. Thrust washer 31. Shift cradle
13. Thrust bearing 32. Shift detent lever
14. Propshaft 33. Reverse gear
15. Thrust collar bearing housing
16. Set screw 34. Alignment pin
17. Shim(s) 35. Pivot pin
18. Thrust bearing 36. Shift bellcrank
19. Spanner nutlbearing 37. Detent spring
housing 38. Detent ball
20. Caged needle bearing
1. Propshaft seal 17. Clutch dog

2. Small bearing 18. Cross pin
3. O-ring 19. Clutch shaft
4. Propshaft bearing carrier 20. Reverse gear
5. Tabbed washer 21. Thrust bearing
6. Flat washer 22. Thrust washer
7. Screw 23. Shift actuator rod
8. Anode 24. Shift cradle
9. Screw 25. Shift bellcrank
10. Large bearing 26. Shift detent lever
11. O-rings 27. Reverse gear
12. Thrust washer bearing housing
13. Thrust b a r i n g 28. Alignment pin
14. Propshaft 29. Detent spring
15. Forward gear assembly 30. Detent ball
16. Cross pin retaining spring
CHAPTER NINE
design. The rollers will fall out of these bearings during the carrier assembly (across the anode mounting bosses)
disassembly. This is normal. into a vise. See Figure 72.
The propshaft bearing carrier is held in the gearcase
NOTE
housing by two tabbed washers, screws and washers and a
On V8 series gearcases, the forward gear
two-piece drive shaft is used (just like standard-rotation and bearing (15, Figure 70) are serviced
gearcases). only as an assembly. The assembly is laser-
welded together at thefactory and cannot be
CAUTION disassembled. On V6 series gearcases, the
Counter-rotation models use a special two- forward gear and bearing assembly can be
piece propeller and clutch shaf. Do not at- serviced separately (15-22, Figure 69), but
tempt to disassemble this gearcase in the must be reshimmed $disassembled. Ifdisas-
same manner as standard-rotation models. sembly of the forward gear is necessary,
The gearcase andlor tools will be damaged refer to Forward Gear and Bearing Service
and you could be easily injured in the proc- (V6 Series Counter-Rotation Gearcase), 10-
ess. cated in the next section.
The V6 series counter-rotation gear housing is the same 8. Unscrew the forward gear and bearing assembly (Fig-
as that used on the offshore V6 (Oceanprop and Ocean- ure 73) from the propshaft bearing carrier. Attach the
Runner) models. The water inlet screens are externally spanner part No. 432400 (V6 series) or part No. 432399
mounted (Figure 50). These screens can be cleaned or (V8 series) to a breaker bar and turn the spanner counter-
replaced without removing the gearcase from the outboard clockwise (when looking directly at the gear) to remove
motor. The V8 series counter-rotation gear housing uses the gear and bearing assembly.
internal water inlet screens that require that the water pump 9. Slide the propshaft from the propshaft bearing carrier.
be removed to replace the screens. See 22, Figure 49. Then remove the thrust washer and thrust bearing (12 and
Refer to Figure 69 (V6 series) or Figure 70 (V8 series) 13, Figure 69 or Figure 70) from the propshaft.
for this procedure. Record the location, orientation and
thickness of all shims and thrust washers removed from the
gear housing during disassembly, so that they may be
correctly reinstalled.
The propshaft bearing carrier can be removed without
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor, if so
desired. Do not attempt to remove the propshaft without
removing the gearcase from the outboard motor.
1. Drain the gearcase lubricant as described in Chapter
Four.
2. Remove the gearcase as described in this chapter.
3. Remove the water pump as described in this chapter.
4. Remove the two screws, flat washers and tabbed washers
(Figure 51) securing the propshaft bearing carrier into the
gearcase bore.
5. Install slide hammer adaptor (part No. 432398) onto the
propshaft threads. Attach a suitable slide hammer to the
adaptor. See Figure 71. Use the slide hammer to pull the
propshaft, carrier and gear assembly from the gearcase
housing. Set the assembly on a clean workbench.
6A. V6 series-Remove and discard the O-rings on the
front (inner) and rear support flanges (as equipped). See 3
and 11, Figure 69.
6B. V8 series-Remove and discard the two O-rings from
the front (inner) support flange and the single O-ring on
the rear support flange. See 3 and 11, Figure 70.
7. Remove the two screws securing the anode to the
propshaft bearing carrier. Remove the anode, then clamp
10. Remove the four screws securing the drive shaft bear- 14. Firmly hold the Pinion nut Wrench (or 718 in. wrench)
ing carrier (3, Figure 49) to the gearcase. Do not remove centered in the gearcase bore (Figure 74). The wrench
the carrier at this time. must be parallel to the clutch shaft. Loosen and remove the
11. Push down on the shift shaft while rotating the propel- pinion nut by turning the drive shaft counterclockwiseuntil
ler shaft to engage REVERSE gear and allow a wrench to the nut is free from the shaft. Remove the nut from the
be installed onto the pinion nut. gearcase bore.
12. Hold the pinion nut using pinion nut wrench (part No. NOTE
334455) or a 718 in. wrench. Pad the area around the wrench The lower drive shaft (pinion) bearing con-
handle with shop towels to prevent housing damage. tains 18 (V6 series) or 19 (V8 series) loose
13. Install drive shaft spline socket part No. 3 11875 (or an rollers that will fall out during drive shaft
equivalently splined socket) and a breaker bar onto the removal. Retrieve all rollers from the hous-
drive shaft splines. ing.
15. Pull the drive shaft assembly from its bore. If the
pinion gear sticks to the drive shaft, proceed as follows:
key's flat.
then tighten the set screw against the drive shaft's
flat.
e. ~ e m o i the
e tools when finished. Proceed to Step 17.
16. If the upper drive shaft pulled free from the lower drive
shaft in the previous step, proceed as follows:
a. Assemble lower drive shaft puller (part No. 342681)
to a suitable slide hammer (such as part No. 39 1008).
b. Hook the open end of the drive shaft puller under the
roll pin in the lower drive shaft.
c. Using the slide hammer, pull the lower drive shaft
from the gearcase housing.
d. Remove the tools when finished. Remove and dis-
card the roll pin and drive shaft retainer.
17. Slide the drive shaft bearing carrier, shim(s), thrust
washer and thrust bearing from the drive shaft. See Figure
68. Measure and record the thickness of the shim(s) for
later reference. Tag the shim(s) for identification during
reassembly.
18. Remove and discard the drive shaft bearing carrier's
O-ring (5, Figure 68).
19. Rotate the gearcase until the pinion gear and the loose
rollers from the pinion bearing slide out. Be prepared to
catch the components. Once the gear is removed and the
18 (V6 series) or 19 (V8 series) loose rollers are secured
(Figure 79,reposition the gearcase so that the drive shaft
is pointing straight up.
20. Push the shift shaft downward as far as possible. Then
unthread the shift shaft until it is free from the shift detent
CHAPTER NINE
lever (32, Figure 69 or 26, Figure 70). The detent lever b. Using a small punch, push the cross pin out of the
must remain in the fully down position in order to remove clutch dog. Then slide the forward gear and bearing
the propshaft assembly. housing assembly and the clutch dog off the front of
21. Remove the six screws securing the shift shaft housing the propshaft.
to the gearcase deck. If necessary, tap the housing with a c. Separate the reverse gear, thrust bearing and thrust
soft-faced hammer to break it free. Then remove the hous- washer from the bearing housing.
d. Using a small punch, push the pivot pin from the
and discard the cover gasket. bearing housing, then pull the actuator rod and cra-
22. Pull the shift shaft from the shift shaft housing. Re- dle from the bearing housing. Lift the cradle from
move the housing's two O-rings (31, Figure 49) from the the rod. Finally, remove the shift bellcrank from the
shift shaft bore with a seal pick or other hooked tool. bearing housing. See Figure 80.
23. While holding the shift detent lever down with a CAUTION
suitable tool (Figure 77), grasp the clutch shaft and pull Use extreme care when removing the shift
the clutch shaft assembly from the gearcase (Figure 78). detent level: The detent ball and spring may
If it catches, make sure the drainlfill plug is removed and jly from the access hole with considerable
that the shift detent lever is pushed and held downward as force.
far as possible. Set the assembly on a clean workbench.
25. Remove the shift detent lever from the reverse gear
NOTE bearing housing as follows:
The bearing in the reverse bearing housing
contains 25 loose rollers that will fall out a. V6 series gearcase--Cover the detent ball and
during propeller shaft disassembly. Locate spring access hole with a shop towel (Figure 81),
and secure all 25 rollers. then push the shift detent lever up and out of its bore
with a suitable tool. Locate and secure the detent ball
24. Refer to Figure 69 or Figure 70 and disassemble the and spring.
clutch shaft as follows:
a. Remove and discard the clutch dog cross pin retain-
ing spring with a small screwdriver or awl. Insert the
tool under one end of the spring and rotate the
propeller shaft to unwind the spring. See Figure 79.
b. V8 series gearcase-Cover the detent ball and

spring access hole (2, Figure 59, typical) with a shop
towel, then rotate the shift detent lever 90" to either
side and pull the lever (1) from the bearing housing.
Locate and secure the detent ball and spring.
c. Locate and secure the 25 loose roller bearings in the
reverse gear bearing housing.
NOTE
The bearings in the reverse gear bearing
housing and the drive shaft bearing carrier
are not serviceable. If the bearings andlor
the housings are worn or damaged, replace
- housing- or bearing carrier as an
the bearinn
assembly.
26. Remove the drive shaft seal(s) from the drive shaft
bearing carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore
with a suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore
27. Remove the propshaft seal from the propshaft bearing
carrier by pulling the seal(s) from the carrier bore with a
suitable two-jaw puller. Do not damage the seal bore
CAUTION
The lower drive shaft (pinion) bearing must
be pulled up and out of the drive shaft bore.
If the bearing is driven out the bottom of the
drive shaft bore, the gearcase will be irrepa-
rably damaged.
28. If the lower drive shaft (pinion) bearing requires re-

placement, reinstall the 18 (or 19) loose rollers into the
pinion bearing. Use OMC Needle Bearing Assembly
Grease to hold the rollers in place. The rollers must be
installed for the remover to have an adequate surface to
pull against.
a. V6 series gearcase-Remove the pinion bearing
locking clip (12, Figure 49) from the drive shaft
bore. Hookthe ring- with a suitable tool or a long pair
of needlenose pliers and pull it from the bore.
b. V8 series pearcase-Remove the bearing retaining
screw (13,"~i~ure 49) from the starboardside of thk
gearcase. The screw is easily identified by its
Posidriv screw head. The screw is located just in
front of the starboard water inlet screen as shown in
Figure 82, typical. Remove and discard the O-ring
from the screw.
29. To remove the pinion bearing, several components
from pinion bearing kit (part No. 391257) or equivalent
tools will be required.
a. Assemble the components from the pinion bearing
kit part No. 391257 (except the remover) as shown
in Figure 60.
432 CHAPTER NINE
1. Propshaft seal 21. Thrust bearing

2. Small bearing 22. Forward gear
4. Propshaft bearing carrier retaining spring
5. Tabbed washer 24. Cross pin
6. Flat washer 25. Clutch dog
7. Screw 26. Clutch shaft
8. Anode 27. Reverse gear
9. Screw 28. Thrust bearing
10. Large bearing 29. Thrust washer
11. O-ring 30. Shift actuator rod
12. Thrust washer 31. Shift cradle
13. Thrust bearing 32. Shift detent lever
14. Propshaft 33. Reverse gear
15. Thrust collar bearing housing
16. Set screw 34. Alignment pin
17. Shim(s) 35. Pivot pin
18. Thrust bearing 36. Shift bellcrank
19. Spanner nutlbearing 37. Detent spring
housing 38. Detent ball
20. Caged needle bearlng
b. Insert the tool into the drive shaft bore. Hold the 3 1. Refer to Gearcase Cleaning and Inspection. Clean
Remover (4, Figure 60) under the pinion bearing and inspect all components as directed before beginning
and thread it fully onto the Rod (3). assembly.
c. Tighten the flanged nut (1, Figure 60) to pull the
bearing up and out of the drive shaft bore. If the
Forward Gear and Bearing Service
Remover rotates, hold it stationary with a suitable
(V6 Series Counter-RotationGearcase)
wrench.
d. Discard the bearing. Refer to Figure 83.
30. If either (or both) of the propshaft bearing carrier Disassemble the forward gear and bearing assembly
bearings (2 and 10, Figure 69 or Figure 70) require (Figure 84) only if the bearings, thrust collar or spanner
replacement, pull the defective bearing(s) from the carrier nuthearing housing require replacement, yet the gear is in
with a suitable bearing puller. Discard the bearing(s). satisfactory condition. If the gear is damaged, replace the
forward gear and bearing assembly and the pinion gear as
a matched assembly.
The end play of the spanner nuthearing housing (5,
Figure 85) must be set to 0.001 in. (0.025 mrn).This is
done by changing the amount of shims (3, Figure 85)
between the bearing housing and the thrust collar (2).
To service the forward gear and bearing assembly, refer
to Figure 85 and proceed as follows:
1. Remove the propshaft bearing carrier and separate the
forward gear and bearing assembly from the propshaft
bearing carrier as described in the previous section.
2. Remove the four set screws securing the thrust collar to
the gear hub. Remove the collar from the gear hub. Locate
and secure the shim(s) between the collar and the gear hub.
NOTE
@ FORWARD GEAR AND BEARING
The bearing in the spanner nuthearing
housing (6, Figure 85) contains 25 loose
ASSEMBLY (V6 SERIES rollers that will fall out during disassembly.
[COUNTER-ROTATION MODELSI) Locate and secure all 25 rollers.
1-@ 2 3. Remove the thrust bearing, spanner nuthearing hous-

ing and the second thrust bearing from the gear hub.
4. If the roller bearing (6, Figure 85) requires replace-
ment, reinstall the 25 loose rollers into the bearing. Use
OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to hold the rollers
in place. The rollers must be installed for the remover to
have an adequate surface to pull against. Then pull the
bearing from the spanner nuthearing housing with a suit-
able bearing puller. Discard the bearing.
5. Refer to Gearcase Cleaning and Inspection. Clean and
1. Set screw inspect all components as directed before beginning as-
2. Thrust collar sembly.
3. Shirn(s) 6. If removed, press a new bearing into the spanner
4. Thrust bearing
5. Spanner nutlbearlng
nuthearing housing as follows:
housing a. Lubricate the new bearing and the housing bore.
6. Caged needle bearing Make sure all of the 25 loose rollers are held in place
7. Thrust bearing with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease.
8. Forward gear
b. Position the spanner nuthearing housing in a press
with its flanged (unthreaded) end facing down.
CHAPTER NINE
c. Position the bearing into the carrier's bore with the Assembly
numbered side facing up. (V6 and V8 Series Counter-Rotation Gearcases)
d. Press the bearing into position using bearing in- Lubricate all internal components with OMC Ultra HPF
staller (part No. 339778) or an equivalent mandrel. Gear Lube. Do not assemble components dry. Refer to
Press until the tool contacts the bearing carrier. Table 2 for torque values and Table 3 for specifications.
7. Position the forward gear on a clean workbench with The pinion gear is precisely located by a shimming
the gear teeth facing down. Install a thrust bearing, then process. The shimming should be verified during any
the spanner nuthearing housing (with the threaded end major disassembly,but if the pinion gear, drive shaft, drive
facing up) over the gear hub. shaft bearing carrier or the drive shaft thrust washer or
thrust bearing have been replaced, the pinion gear must be
8. Install the second thrust bearing over the gear hub and
on top of the spanner nuthearing housing. shimmed. The text refers you to Pinion Gear Shimming (in
this chapter) at the correct time in the assembly sequence.
9. Install the original shim(s) into the recess in the thrust The shift shaft must be adjusted to a specific height in
collar. Use a small amount of OMC Needle Bearing As- NEUTRAL gear. Failure to properly adjust the shift shaft
sembly Grease to hold the shirn(s) in place. will cause the shift system to be biased toward one gear.
10. Install the thrust collar over the gear hub. Make sure The other gear will not properly engage and will be quickly
the thrust bearing fits on the thrust collar, then seat the destroyed under operation. The text refers you to Shift
collar onto the gear hub. Shaft HeightAdjustment (in this chapter) at the correct time
in the assembly sequence.
11. While holding the thrust collar against the gear hub, Because of the use of many of the same components as
evenly tighten the set screws to 144-168 in.-lb. (16.3-19.0 the standard-rotation gearcases, the following procedure
N.m). refers you to selected illustrations from the standard-rota-
12. Place the gear and bearing assembly onto a machin- tion disassembly/assembly sections as appropriate.
ist's surface plate or an extremely flat and sturdy work-
bench. Attach a dial indicator to the machinist's plate and CAUTION
position the indicator plunger over the flange on the span- The screws ( I and 8, Figure 61 or 1 and 7,
ner nuthearing housing. The plunger must be positioned Figure 62) must be securely tightened and
the flat washer (2, Figure 61 or Figure 62)
parallel to the propshaft centerline.
must be pegectly flat or the pinion bearing
13. While holding down on the thrust collar, move the will not be correctly positioned in the next
spanner nutJbearing housing up and down while observing step.
the dial indicator to measure the end play. The dial indica-
tor must indicate 0.001 in. (0.025 mm). 1A. V6 series gearcase-If removed, a new pinion bearing
must be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaft
a. If not, add to or subtract from the total thickness of bore. Several components from universal pinion bearing
shim(s) to change the end play as necessary. Add removerlinstaller kit (part No. 391257) are required to
shims to increase the end play and subtract shims to properly locate the bearing. To install a new bearing,
decrease end play. A 0.001 in. (0.025 mm) change in proceed as follows:
shim thickness results in a 0.001 in. (0.025 mm) a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore.
change in end play. Reassemble the gear and bearing Make sure all of the 18 loose rollers are held in place
assembly with the correct amount of shims and with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease.
recheck the end play. See Steps 9-13. b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 61, using the
b. Once the dial indicator indicates 0.001 in. (0.025 specified components of pinion bearing kit (part No.
mm), proceed to Step 14. 391257). Make sure the screws (1 and 8, Figure 61)
are securely tightened.
14. Remove the four set screws. Apply OMC Nut Lock c. Position the bearing over the installer (7, Figure 61)
threadlocking adhesive to each screw. While holding the with the numbered side of the bearing against the
thrust collar firmly against the gear hub, install and evenly special washer (6).
tighten the set screws to 144-168 in.-lb. (16.3-19.0 N.m).
15. Install the forward gear and bearing assembly to the against the screw (1, Figure 61) with a soft-faced
propshaft bearing carrier and install the propshaft bearing mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer
carrier assembly as described in the following section. (3). Then remove the installation tools.
e. Install the pinion bearing locking clip (12, Figure equivalent mandrel. Press until the tool contacts the
49) into the drive shaft bore. Make sure the clip fully bearing carrier.
expands into the groove just above the pinion bear- 3. I f removed, install a new small bearing (2, Figure 69 or
ing. 2, figure 70) into the propshaft bearing canier as follows:
1B. V8 series gearcase-If removed, a new pinion bearing a. Position the carrier in a press with the propeller end
must be pressed into position from the top of the drive shaft facing up.
bore. Several components from universal pinion bearing b. Lubricate a new small bearing and position it into
removerlinstaller kit part No. 391257 are required to prop- the carrier's bore with the numbered side facing up.
erly locate the bearing. A special installer (part No. c. Press the bearing into position with the longer shoul-
328828) is required and is not part of the kit. To install a der of bearing installer part No. 340820 (V8 series)
new bearing, proceed as follows: or part No. 339750 (V6 series) or an equivalent
a. Lubricate the new bearing and the drive shaft bore. mandrel. Press until the tool contacts the bearing
Make sure all of the 19 loose rollers are held in place carrier.
with OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease. 4. Install a new propshaft seal as follows:
b. Assemble the tool as shown in Figure 62, using the a. Lubricate the outer diameter of a new seal with OMC
specified components of pinion bearing kit (part No. DPL (WD-40) Lubricant.
391257) and the special installer (part No. 328828). b. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal
Make sure the screws (1 and 7, Figure 62) are installer (part No. 341439) or an equivalentmandrel.
securely tightened. The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away
c. Position the bearing over the installer (6, Figure 62) from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal
with the numbered side of the bearing against the installer to protect the seal's lip.
tool's shoulder. c. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con-
d. Insert the assembly into the drive shaft bore. Drive tacts the carrier.
against the screw (1, Figure 62) with a soft-faced d. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard
mallet until the flat washer (2) contacts the spacer Grease.
(3). Remove the installation tools. 5. Install the thrust washer (12, Figure 69 or 12, Figure
e. Install a new O-ring on the pinion bearing retaining 70) into the recess in the propshaft bearing carrier. Use
screw (Figure 82). Apply OMC Nut Lock to the OMC Needle Bearing ~ s s e h bGrease l ~ to hold the washer
threads of the screw and the O-ring. Then install and in place. Then lubricate the thrust bearing (13, Figure 69
tighten the screw to 48-84 in.-lb. (5.4-9.5 N.m). or 13, Figure 70) and slide it over the propeller shaft and
2. If removed, install a new large bearing (10, Figure 69 against the shaft's flange.
or 10, Figure 70) into the propshaft bearing carrier as 6. Carefully insert the propshaft into the propshaft bearing
follows: carrier. Make sure the thrust washer is not displaced from
a. Position the carrier in a press with its propeller end its recess during the installation process.
facing down. 7. Lubricate the threads of the forward gear and bearing
b. Lubricate a new large bearing and position it into the assembly and the threads in the propshaft bearing carrier.
carrier's bore with the numbered side facing up. Carefully thread the gear and bearing assembly into the
c. Press the bearing into position using the short shoul- carrier. Do not cross the threads. Thread the gear and
der of bearing installer (part No. 432401) or an bearing into the carrier by hand until it is seated. If a
wrench is required, the threads are damaged or crossed.
8. Clamp the carrier assembly across the anode mounting
bosses into a vise. See Figure 72. Attach the spanner (part
No. 432400 [V6 series] or part No. 432399 [V8 series]) to
a torque wrench. The spanner must be attached at a 90"
angle to the wrench. Tighten the gear and bearing assembly
to 100 ft.-lb. (135.6 N.m).
9. Remove the propshaft bearing carrier assembly from
the vise. Install and secure the anode to the carrier with two
screws (Figure 86). Evenly tighten both screws to 60-84
in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
10. Coat a new O-ring with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
Install the 0-ring(s) into the propshaft bearing carrier's
O-ring groove(s).
CHAPTER NINE
11A. Double seal models-Install two new drive shaft pack and put away any extra shims to avoid confusion
seals into the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows: during assembly.
Gasket Sealing Compound. CAUTZON
b. Install the inner seal (with the flush lip) using the Use extreme care when installing the shift
longer, stepped shoulder of seal installer (part No. detent lever in Step 14. The detent ball and
spring may fly from the access hole with
330268) or an equivalent mandrel. The seal lip
considerableforce.
(spring side) must face into the carrier. Press the seal
until the installer contacts the carrier.
c. Install the outer seal (with the extended lip) using the 14A. V6 series gearcase-Assemble the reverse gear bear-
shorter shoulder of seal installer (part No. 330268) ing housing (Figure 87) as follows:
or an equivalent mandrel. The extended lip must face a. Support the bearing carrier so that the detent ball
away (out) from the carrier. Press the seal until the access hole (A, Figure 87) is pointing straight up as
installer contacts the carrier. shown in Figure 88.
d. Lubricate the seal lips and pack the area between the b. Grease the detent spring and ball (B, Figure 87) with
seal lips with OMC Triple Guard Grease. OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease. Install the
11B. Single seal models-Install a new drive shaft seal into spring, then the ball into the detent ball access hole
the drive shaft bearing carrier as follows: (A, Figure 87).
a. Lubricate the outer diameter of a new seal with OMC c. Insert the shift detent lever (C, Figure 87) into its
DPL (WD-40) Lubricant. bore until it is almost touching the detent ball and
b. Position the drive shaft bearing carrierin apress with spring.
the needle bearing end facing down.
d. Insert a suitable screwdriver into the bottom of the
c. Position the seal onto the appropriate end of seal
shift detent lever bore and compress the detent ball
installer (part No. 341439) or an equivalent mandrel.
and spring. While holding the ball and spring com-
The seal's extended lip must face the installer (away pressed, push the shift detent lever into its bore until
from the carrier). A recess is provided in the seal
installer to protect the seal's lip.
d. Press the seal into the carrier until the installer con-
tacts the carrier.
e. Lubricate the seal lips with OMC Triple Guard
Grease.
NOTE
In Step 12, make sure the O-ring is installed
in the groove closest to the carrier's flange
(Figure63). If installed in the lower groove,
the oil circulation passage will be blocked
and the drive shaft bearing will fail prema-
turely.
12. Coat a new O-ring (4, Figure 49) with OMC Triple
Guard Grease. Install the O-ring into the bearing carrier
groove closest to the flange. See Figure 63.
CAUTZON
The pinion gear must be precisely located in
the drive shaft bore. If the shimming tool is
not available, take the drive shaft assembly
to an Evinrude/Johnson dealership and have
a gualij?ed technician pe$orm the proce-
dure.
13. Refer to Pinion Gear Shimming (in this chapter) and
determine the quantity of shims required to properly locate
the pinion gear. Once the shims are selected, tag the shim
it is flush with the bottom of the bore. See Figure slots. Then push the shift detent lever down as far as
88. possible.
e. Install the 25 loose rollers into the bearing race. Use g. Align the hole in the shift bellcrank with the hole in
OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to hold the the bearing carrier, then install the pivot pin.
rollers in place. h. Grease the shift cradle with OMC Needle Bearing
f. Insert the shift actuator shaft into the reverse gear Assembly Grease and set it into its groove in the shift
bearing housing from the front of the housing. actuator rod. Insert the rod and cradle into the bear-
Grease the shift cradle with OMC Needle Bearing ing carrier and engage the cradle to the bellcrank
Assembly Grease and set it into its groove in the shift tangs.
actuator rod. 15. Refer to Figure 83 or Figure 90 and assemble the
g. Insert the double tangs of the shift bellcrank into the clutch shaft as follows:
shift cradle. Slide the bellcrank, cradle and actuator a. Install the reverse gear thrust washer over the bear-
rod back into the bearing housing until the single ing carrier and seat it on the housing's shoulder.
tang engages the shift detent lever. Align the pivot b. Apply OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to
pin bore, then install the pivot pin. See A, Figure 89. the reverse gear thrust bearing face, then position the
14B. V8 series gearcase-Assemble the reverse gear bear- thrust bearing onto the reverse gear. Carefully install
ing homing as follows: the reverse gear and bearing assembly into the bear-
a. Support the bearing carrier so that the detent ball ing carrier. Make sure the thrust bearing and shift
access hole (2, Figure 59, typical) is pointing actuator rod and shift cradle are not displaced during
straight up. installation.
b. Grease the detent spring and ball with OMC Needle NOTE
Bearing Assembly Grease. Install the spring, then The aft end of the clutch dog is stampedprop
the ball into their bore. See Figure 64, typical. end.
c. Insert the shift detent lever (26, Figure 70) into its
bore until it is almost touching the detent ball and c. Align the cross pin holes of the clutch dog with slot
spring. Position the head of the shift lever pointing in the clutch shaft. Position the end of the clutch dog
to either side of the bearing housing. stamped prop end toward the rear and slide it onto
d. Insert a screwdriver into the bottom of the shift the clutch shaft.
detent lever bore and compress the detent ball and d. Carefully install the clutch shaft assembly to the
spring. While holding the ball and spring com- reverse gear bearing carrier assembly. Insert the shift
pressed, push the shift detent lever into its bore until actuator rod into the open end of the clutch shaft and
it is flush with the bottom of the bore. the clutch shaft into the reverse gear.
e. Install the 25 loose rollers into the bearing race. Use e. Align the hole in the shift actuator rod with the hole
OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to hold the in the clutch dog, then install the clutch dog cross
rollers in place. pin. Use a small screwdriver to align the holes, then
f. Insert the shift bellcrank lever through the hole at the push the cross pin into the clutch dog (displacing the
top of the bearing carrier. Rotate the shift lever (1, screwdriver). See Figure 91.
Figure 59) until it points to the rear of the housing
NOTE
and engage the bellcrank tangs to the detent lever
When installed correctly, the cross pin re-
taining spring must layflat, with no overlap-
ping coils. There must be three wraps of wire
over each end of the cross pin.
f. Secure the pin to the clutch dog with a new retainer
spring. Do not open the spring any more than neces-
sary to install it. Install one end of the spring over
screwdriver or hooked tool to guide the spring, rotate
the propeller shaft to wind the spring into place.
Make sure no coils overlap and that three wraps of
wire are over each end of the pin.
as possible, then install the clutch shaft and reverse gear
438 CHAPTER NINE
1-
I
.
I
.1 ...
..
.--.
. '1
I
I
I
.-..I
4
I
1. Propshaft seal 17. Clutch dog

2. Small bearing 18. Cross pin
3. O-ring 19. Clutch shaft
4. Propshaft bearing carrier 20. Reverse gear
5. Tabbed washer 21. Thrust bearing
6. Flat washer 22. Thrust washer
7. Screw 23. Shift actuator rod
8. Anode 24. Shift cradle
9. Screw 25. Shift bellcrank
10. Large bearing 26. Shift detent lever
11. O-rings 27. Reverse gear
12. Thrust washer bearing housing
13. Thrust bearing 28. Alignment pin
14. Propshaft 29. Detent spring
15. Forward gear assembly 30. Detent ball
16. Cross pin retaining spring
assembly into the gearcase bore (Figure 78). The detent closely aligned to the gearcase deck. I f the
lever must be facing straight UP and the locating pin on screw holes are grossly misaligned, the for-
the bearing housing (B, Figure 89, typical) must engage ward bearing housing is not seated in its
the correspondinghole in the gearcase housing. Make sure bore or the alignment pin (B, Figure 89,
the assembly is seated in the bore and that the thrust washer typical) is not aligned with its hole. Tap on
and bearing were not displaced during installation. the end of the propshaft with a soft-faced
17. Lubricate two new shift shaft housing O-rings with hammer and use the shift shaft to rotate the
OMC Triple-Guard grease and install the O-rings into the forward gear's bearing housing as neces-
sary to ensure alignment and seating.
housing's O-ring groove(s). Some housings use a single
wide groove to hold both O-rings, while other housings use 21. Coat the six shift shaft housing screws with OMC
two separate grooves. Examine the housing and determine Gasket Sealing Compound. Align the screw holes, then
the groove configuration before installingthe O-rings. Use install and evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-
a blunt tool to seat each O-ring into its groove. 9.5 N-m).
NOTE 22. Assemble the drive shaft components (Figure 68) as
Make sure the grommet (26, Figure 49) is follows:
installed onto the shift s h e before inserting a. Position the thrust bearing over the drive shaft and
the shift shaft through the shift shaft housing. against the thrust washer. Then install the thrust
On extra-long (25 in. [635 mm]) and extra, washer over the shaft and against the thrust bearing.
extra-long (30 in. [762 mm])shaft models, a b. Position the predetermined amount of shims over the
plastic spacer (27) is installed between the drive shaft and against the thrust washer.
grommet and the shift shaft housing. Some c. Install seal protector (part No. 318674) over the
30 in. (762 mm) models will use two plastic
spacers stacked on top of each othel: splined end of the drive shaft, or wrap the splines
with a single layer of cellophane tape to protect the
18. Lubricate the threaded end of the shift shaft with OMC drive shaft seal(s).
Triple Guard Grease and insert it into the housing's brass d. Carefully slide the drive shaft bearing carrier over
bushing. To prevent damaging the O-rings, rotate the shift the shaft, being careful not to damage the seals, then
shaft clockwise until all of the threads pass through both seat the carrier against the shims. Remove the seal
O-rings. Continue pushing the shift shaft through the hous- protector or cellophane tape.
ing until it is centered on the shaft. e. Coat the gearcase side of the drive shaft bearing
19. Coat a new shift housing gasket with OMC Gasket carrier-to-gearcase housing mating surface (not the
Sealing Compound. Then position the gasket on the gear- bore) with a light coat of OMC Gasket Sealing
case deck. Compound.
20. Position the shift shaft and housing assembly onto the 23. Install the drive shaft and pinion gear as follows:
gearcase. Thread the shift shaft into the shift detent lever a. Clean the pinion gear and drive shaft tapered mating
approximately four turns. surfaces thoroughly with OMC Cleaning Solvent,
acetone or a similar oil-free solvent.
NOTE
b. Push down on the shift rod while rotating the clutch
If the propshaft assembly is seated in the
gearcase bore, the shift shaft housing will be shaft to fully engage REVERSE gear. Then rotate
the gearcase so that the drive shaft bore is pointing
downward.
c. Slide the pinion gear into position over the drive
shaft bore, then insert the drive shaft assembly into
its bore and engage the pinion gear. Rotate the shaft
as necessary to engage the splines.
d. Lubricate the threads of a new pinion nut with out-
board lubricant, then install the new pinion nut using
a suitable nut holder, such as pinion nut starter (part
No. 342216). Tighten the nut finger-tight, then re-
move the pinion nut starter.
e. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the four
drive shaft bearing carrier screws. Seat the carrier
into its bore with hand pressure and align the screw
CHAPTER NINE
holes. Install and evenly tighten the four bearing GEARCASE CLEANING AND INSPECTION
carrier screws to 14-16 ft.-lb. (19.0-21.7 N.m).
24. Hold the pinion nut using pinion nut wrench (part No. 1. Discard all seals, gaskets and O-rings removed during
334455) or an equivalent 7/8 in. wrench. Pad the area disassembly.
around the wrench handle with shop towels to prevent 2. Separate the two-piece drive shaft as described in the
housing damage. following section.
25. Install drive shaft spline socket part No. 311875 or an 3. Clean all parts in a mild solvent and dry with com-
equivalently splined socket) and a torque wrench onto the pressed air. Lightly lubricate all internal components to
drive shaft splines. prevent rusting.
26. Firmly hold the pinion nut wrench (or 718 in. wrench) CAUTION
centered in the gearcase bore (Figure 74). The wrench Always match a replacementfastener to the
must be parallel to the clutch shaft. Turn the drive shaft to original. Do not run a tap or thread chaser
tighten the pinion nut to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9-108.5 N.m) on into a hole (or over a bolt) without jirst
V6 series gearcases and 100-110ft-lb. (135.6-149.1 N.m) verifying the thread size and pitch. Check all
on V8 series gearcases. Remove the tools when finished. threaded holes for stainless steel locking
27. Apply a light coat of OMC RTV Black Silicone thread inserts. Never run a tap or thread
Sealant to the propshaft bearing carrier's rear flange (and
0-ring[s], if equipped). Then coat the forward (inner)
flange and 0-ring(s) with OMC Gasket Sealing Com-
pound.
28. Install the propshaft bearing carrier assembly into the
gearcase bore, making sure the anode is pointing straight
down and the retaining screw holes are vertical.
29. Push the carrier into the gearcasebore until it is seated.
Rotate the propshaft as necessary to align it with the clutch
shaft's splines. If necessary tap the carrier with a wooden
dowel and a suitable mallet. Do not attempt to pull the
carrier into position with its mounting screws.
NOTE
If the retaining tabs (5, Figure 83 or 5,
Figure 90) have one side with rounded
edges, position that side toward the front of
the gearcase.
30. Coat the threads of the two carrier retaining screws

with OMC Ultra Lock threadlockingadhesive. Position the
carrier retaining tabs over the screw holes and engage them
into the notches in the gearcase bore. Secure each retainer
with a screw and washer (Figure 92). Tighten the screws
to 24-26 ft.-lb. (32.5-35.3 N.m).
31. Test the integrity of the gearcase seals, gaskets and
O-rings as described in Gearcase Pressure and Vacuum
Testing.
32. Adjust the shift shaft height as described in Shift Shaft
Height Adjustment, in this chapter. Failure to properly set
the shift shaft height will result in premature gear failure.
33. Install the water pump as described in this chapter.
34. Fill the gearcase with the recommended lubricant as
described in Chapter Four.
35. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter.
chaser into a hole equipped with a thread CAUTION

insert. Heli-Coil inserts are replaceable, if Some V6 series gearcases have a speedome-
damaged. ter pickup fitting, passage and plug. See 32-
34, Figure 49. The plug must be installed
4. Inspect all screws, bolts, nuts and other fasteners for and securely tightened or water will mix with
damaged, galled or distorted threads. Replace any elastic the lubricant, causing a premature gearcase
locknuts that can be installed without the aid of a wrench. failure.
Clean all sealing compound, RTV sealant and threadlock-
ing compound from the threaded areas. Minor thread irn- 6. On models with hydrostatic seal rings (Figure 93,
perfections can be corrected with an appropriate thread typical) cast into the very rear of the gearcase bore (or
chaser. the propshaft bearing carrier [V8 series]), inspect the
rings for wear, damage, debris or excessive corrosion.
5. Clean all gasket and sealant material from the gearcase The rings trap water between the propeller hub and
housing. Make certain that all water and lubricantpassages gearcase, sealing the gearcase to the propeller hub. This
are clean and unobstructed. Make sure all threaded holes prevents exhaust gases from leaking into the propeller
are free of corrosion, gasket sealant or threadlocking ad- blade area. If the seal rings can no longer retain water,
hesive. Damaged or distorted threads may be repaired with the propeller will ventilate excessively. If so, the gear-
stainless steel threaded inserts. case housing must be replaced.
7. Inspect all castings for cracks, porosity, wear, distortion
and damage. Replace any housing that shows evidence of
having a bearing spin in its bore.
8. Inspect all anodes as described at the beginning of this
chapter. Replace any anode that has deteriorated to two-
thirds of its original size.
9. Inspect the water inlet screen(s) for damage or obstruc-
tions. Clean or replace the screen(s) as necessary. Internal
screens are very brittle and will most likely break during
removal. Make sure a replacement screen is obtained be-
fore removing the original screen.
a. To remove an internal screen on the V4 and V6
models, depress the tab (Figure 94) on each side of
the screen and pull the screen from the gearcase
housing. To install the screen, apply a small amount
of OMC Type M adhesive to the flat or wider rear
surface of the screen. Then install the screen into the
gearcase housing (with the curved surface facing
forward) and press it into position until it snaps into
place.
b. To remove external screens, remove two screws se-
curing the screens to each other. See Figure 95. Then
remove the screens. To install the screens, position 1
both screens into the gearcase housing with the
openings facing forward and secure with two screws.
Tighten both screws securely.
NOTE
Do not remove the pinion bearing retaining
screw (Figure 82, typical) in the next step.
Remove the screw above the water inlet
screens (24, Figure 49).
c. To remove internal screens on V8 models, remove

the single screw (24, Figure 49) on the starboard
side of the gearcase housing, just above the water
CHAPTER NINE
inlet screen. Remove the starboard screen (1, Figure 17. Check the propeller for nicks, cracks or damaged
96) from the gearcase housing, followed by the port blades. Minor nicks can be removed with a file, taking care
screen (2, Figure 96). To install the screens, insert to retain the original shape and contour of the blade.
the port screen into the housing and seat it at the Replace the propeller or have it repaired if any of the blades
bottom of the cavity (3, Figure 96). Then install the are bent, cracked or badly chipped. If the propeller is
starboard screen over the port screen. Press the star- excessively corroded, it must be replaced.
board screen into position until it snaps in place.
18. Reassemble the two-piece drive shaft as described in
Install and securely tighten the retaining screw (24,
the following section.
Figure 49).
10. Inspect the two-piece drive shaft, propeller shaft and
clutch shaft (counter-rotation models) for worn, damaged
or twisted splines (A, Figure 97, typical). Excessively
worn drive shaft splines are usually the result of shaft
misalignment caused by a distorted exhaust housing or WATER INLET SCREENS
lower gearcase housing, due to impact with an underwater (V8 SERIES GEARCASE)
object. Distorted housings must be replaced.
11. Inspect the drive shaft and propeller shaft threaded
areas for damage. See A, Figure 97, typical. Check the
impeller drive key flat for wear, distortion and cracks.
12. Inspect each shaft's bearing and seal surfaces (B,
Figure 97) for excessive wear, grooving, metal transfer
and discoloration from overheating.
13. Check for a bent propeller shaft and clutch shaft on
counter-rotation models by supporting the shaft with V-
blocks at its bearing surfaces. Mount a dial indicator on a
suitable smooth machined area just forward of the propel-
ler splines. See Figure 98. Rotate the propeller shaft while
observing the dial indicator. Any noticeable wobble or a
reading of more than 0.006 in. (0.15 mrn) indicates exces-
sive shaft runout and the propeller shaft must be replaced.
14. Check each gear for excessive wear, corrosion or rust
and mechanical damage. Check the teeth for galling, chips,
cracks, missing pieces, distortion or discoloration from
1. mrboard screen
overheating. Check the clutch dog and gear engagement 2. Port screen
lugs (Figure 99, typical) for chips, cracks and excessive 3. Water inlet cavity
wear. Check the pinion gear and clutch dog splines for
wear, distortion or damage.
15. Inspect all shift components and shift linkage for
excessive wear, grooving, metal transfer and discoloration
from overheating. Inspect shift shafts for corrosion, wear,
distortion or other damage. Inspect all pivot points and
pivot pins for wear and elongated holes. Inspect the shift
bellcrank and pivot pin for excessive wear, distortion and
elongated holes. Inspect the shift cradle and shift actuator
rod for excessive wear, grooving, metal transfer and dis-
coloration from overheating.
16. Inspect all bearings for water damage, pitting, discol-
oration from overheating and metal transfer. Be sure to
locate and inspect all internal needle bearings. On models
with bushings, inspect each bushing for excessive wear.
Any bushing that is noticeably out of round or elongated,
must be replaced.
19. V6 and V8 series gearcases-If the original lower 5. To assemble the two-piece drive shaft, begin by pushing
drive shaft (pinion) bearing is to be reused, reinstall the 18 the retainer onto the upper drive shaft until it snaps into
(V6) or 19 (V8) loose rollers into the pinion bearing race place. If the retainer is loose or does not snap firmly into
in the gearcase housing. Use liberal amounts of OMC place, discard it and install a new retainer.
Needle Bearing Assembly Grease to hold the rollers in
6. Insert the upper drive shaft into the lower drive shaft.
position.
Remove the upper shaft and rotate the retainer as necessary
to align the roll pin bores. Then reinstall the upper shaft
Two-Piece Drive Shaft Service and align the roll pin bores.
7. Install a new roll pin into the lower drive shaft bore,
Refer to Figure 100 for this procedure. being careful to maintain alignment of the bore during the I
1. Remove the drive shaft as specified in the appropriate installation process. Drive the pin in until the pin is cen-
Gearcase Disassembly section. tered in the lower drive shaft. This should occur when the I
2. Clamp the lower drive shaft in a soft-jawed vise with following dimension (A, Figure 100) is met:
the roll pin bore facing straight up and down. Carefully
a. V4 series gearcase-The roll pin is nearly flush on
drive the roll pin from the lower drive shaft. Be careful not
both sides of the lower drive shaft bore.
to damage the lower drive shaft. Discard the roll pin.
3. Pull the upper drive shaft from the lower drive shaft. If b. V6 series gearcase-The roll pin is recessed 0.125
necessary, remove the retainer from the upper drive shaft. in. (3.16 mrn) on both sides of the lower drive shaft I
4. Clean and inspect the upper and lower drive shafts as bore.
described in this chapter. c. V8 series gearcase-The roll pin protrudes 0.062 in.
(1.56 mm) above both sides of the lower drive shaft
bore.
8. Install the drive shaft assembly as specified in this
chapter.
I Regular rotation
0
/
I Counter rotation I
i
i c--------Upper shaft
Front Rear
Lower shaft
Roll pin
CHAPTER NINE
GEARCASE PRESSURE a. Connect a vacuum tester (such as Stevens V-34) to

AND VACUUM TESTS the same hole and in the same manner as the pressure
tester was connected.
Anytime a gearcase has been disassembled and reassem- b. Pull a vacuum of 3-5 in.-Hg. (10-16.8 kPa) for a
bled, it must be pressure and vacuum tested before it can minimum of three minutes.
be refilled with lubricant. Failure to pressure and vacuum c. Rotate the drive shaft, propeller shaft and shift the
test a gearcase can lead to needless gearcase failure caused gearcase into and out of gear (if applicable) during
by the lubricant leaking out or water leaking in. the test.
A total of four separate tests are required to verify the d. If any vacuum loss is noted, apply gear lubricant to
integrity of the gearcase seals, gaskets and O-rings. Do not all seals and mating surfaces. The lubricant will be
fill the gearcase with lubricant until all four tests are drawn into the gearcase at the point of the leak.
satisfactorily performed in the specified order. Correct the leak and retest.
NOTE e. Do not proceed until the gearcase holds vacuum for
The tester can be attached to the vent at least three minutes without measurable leakage.
plugAubricant level hole or the drain/jill 4. Perform a high vacuum test as follows:
plug hole, as long as the gearcase is posi- a. Increase the vacuum to 14-16 in.-Hg. (47-54 kPa).
tioned to prevent lubricantf i r n draining to
the hole being used. If this is not done, the b. Rotate the drive shaft, propeller shaft and shift the
tester will draw lubricant into itself during gearcase into and out of gear (if applicable) during
the vacuum tests. See Figure 101. the test.
c. If any vacuum loss is noted, apply gear lubricant to
1. Perform a low pressure test as follows: all seals and mating surfaces. The lubricant will be
a. Connect a pressure tester (such as Stevens S-34) to drawn into the drive unit at the point of the leak.
the lubricant level or drain plug hole. Make sure the Correct the leak and retest.
opposite plug (drain plug or lubricant level) and seal d. Do not proceed until the gearcase holds vacuum, or
is installed and securely tightened. loses no more than 1 in.-Hg. (3.4 Wa) after a rnini-
b. Position the gearcase to elevate the hole that the mum of three minutes.
tester is attached to. See Figure 101. e. Remove the vacuum tester when finished.
c. Pressurize the gearcase to 3-5 psi (20.7-34.5kPa) for 5. Fill the gearcase with lubricant as described in Chapter
a minimum of three minutes. Four.
d. Rotate the drive shaft, propeller shaft and shift the
gearcase into and out of gear (if applicable) during
the test.
e. If any pressure drop is noted, spray soapy water on
all seals and mating surfaces until the leak is found.
Correct the leak and retest.
f. Do not proceed until the gearcase holds pressure for
at least three minutes without measurable leakage.
2. Perform a high pressure test as follows:
a. Increase the pressure to 16-18psi (110-124Wa) for
a minimum of three minutes.
b. Rotate the drive shaft, propeller shaft and shift the
gearcase into and out of gear (if applicable) during
the test.
c. If any pressure drop is noted, spray soapy water on
all seals and mating surfaces until the leak is found.
Correct the leak and retest.
d. Do not proceed until the gearcase holds pressure, or
loses no more than 1 psi (6.9 Wa) after a minimum
of three minutes.
e. Remove the pressure tester when finished.
3. Perform a low vacuum test as follows:
PINION GEAR SHIMMING 1. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease or other contamination
from the drive shaft and pinion gear tapers with OMC Clean-
Proper pinion gear-to-forwardlreversegear engagement ing Solvent, acetone, or a similar oil and wax-& solvent.
and the corresponding gear lash are crucial for smooth, Then blow dry the components with compressed air.
quiet operation and long service life. Only one shimming
CAUTION
procedure must be performed to set up the lower gearcase
Clamp the two-piece drive shaft assembly in
properly. The pinion gear must be positioned vertically to a soft-jawed vise across the Archimedes
the correct height. The forward and reverse gear are posi- screw threads on the lower drive shaft to
tioned by the manufacturing process and will be correctly allow easier installation and torquing of the
positioned as long as the gearcase is correctly assembled pinion nut in the next step. Do not clamp the
and no parts are excessively worn. Refer to Table 3 for drive shaft assembly across (any portion of
gearcase specifications. the upper drive shaft).
The pinion gear's position is controlled by adding or
2. Install the pinion gear on the drive shaft and align the
subtracting very thin metal spacers, called shims. The
splines. Lubricate the original pinion nut threads with
shims must be positioned between the drive shaft bearing
outboard lubricant, then install the pinion nut and tighten
canier and the adjoining thrust washer. Placing the shims
it to 70-80 ft.-lb. (94.9-108.5 N.m) on V4 and V6 series
anywhere else in the drive shaft assembly will cause im- gearcases or to 100-110 ft.-lb. (135.6-149.1 N-m) on V8
mediate destruction of the shims. series gearcases. Use spline socket (part No. 3 11875) or an
I€the pinion gear is positioned too high in the gearcase equivalent spline socket to hold the splined end of the drive
bore, the gear teeth will be too far apart. This will cause shaft and a 718 in. socket to hold the other.
excessive gear noise (whine) and a reduction in gear
strength and durability, since the gear teeth are not suffi- NOTE
ciently overlapping. ., - o"fthe
No shims are installed at the beginninn
shimming process.
If the pinion gear is positioned too low in the gearcase
bore, the gear teeth will be too close together. This will 3. Refer back to Figure 68 and assemble the drive shaft
cause gear failure since there will not be enough clearance as follows:
to maintain a film of lubricant. Heat expansion will only a. Position the thrust bearing over the drive shaft and
compound the problem. against the thrust washer. Then install the thrust
The shimming should be verified anytime the drive shaft washer over the shaft and against the thrust bearing.
and pinion gear are removed from the gearcase, but it must Do not install any shims at this time.
be verified if any of the drive shaft components are re- b. Install seal protector (part No. 318674) over the
placed. splined end of the drive shaft or wrap the splines with
Determining the correct quantity of pinion gear shims a single layer of cellophane tape to protect the drive
requires shim gauge kit part No. 393185 (Figure 102) and shaft seal(s).
a special gauge collar part No. 341440. The V8 series c. Carefully slide the drive shaft bearing carrier over
gearcase also requires a special gauge bar part No. 330224. the shaft, being careful not to damage the seal(s),
then seat the canier against the thrust washer. Re-
move the seal protector or cellophane tape.
4. Slide the gauge collar part No. 341440 (A, Figure 102)
over the splined end of the drive shaft and up against the
drive shaft bearing carrier. The flanged end of the collar
must face the bearing carrier.
5. Set the drive shaft assembly into the shim fixture.
a. Make sure the flanged end of the gauge collar fits on
the inner edge of the fmture's frame (C, Figure 102).
b. Position the preload screw's tip (E, Figure 102) into
the recess in the pinion nut end of the shaft.
c. Tighten the preload screw until the groove in the
spring-loaded plunger (E, Figure 102) is flush with
the end of the screw (D). The assembly must be
properly preloaded for the results to be accurate.
446 CHAPTER NINE
d. Tighten the preload screw's jam nut securely against 10. Subtract the smallest feeler gauge reading from the
the fixture's frame. Failure to tighten thejam nut will largest reading. If the difference exceeds 0.004 in. (0.102
cause inaccurate results. mm), the drive shaft bearing carrier is warped and must be
e. Rotate the drive shaft several turns to seat the thrust replaced. Replace the carrier and repeat this entire procedure.
bearing.
6. Position the appropriate gauge bar (F, Figure 102) into NOTE
the fixture frame and against the dowel pins in the tool The bearing carrier cannot be rotatedduring
base. Each gauge bar is machined a certain distance shorter Steps 11 and 12 or the results (Step 13) will
than the distance required to properly locate the pinion be inaccurate.
gear. This distance is called the gauge factor.
a. V4 (90")series gearcase-Use gauge bar part No. 11. Make sure the gauge bar is positioned between a pair
328366. The gauge bar is silver colored and has a of screw holes, then hold the gauge bar firmly against the
gauge factor of 0.020 in. (0.508 mm). drive shaft bearing carrier. Measure the clearance (B, Fig-
b. V4 (60") series gearcase-Use gauge bar part No. ure 103) between the gauge bar and the flat surface on the
328367. The gauge bar is silver colored and has a upper edge of the pinion gear using a feeler gauge. Venfy,
gauge factor of 0.020 in. (0.508 mm). then record your reading.
c. V6 series gearcase-Use gauge bar part No. 12. Rotate the pinion gear while holding the bearing car-
328367. The gauge bar is silver colored and has a rier stationary exactly 114 turn and repeat Step 11. Then
gauge factor of 0.020 in. (0.508 mm). repeat this step two more times until a total of four readings
d. V8 series gearcase-Use gauge bar part No. have been recorded at 90" intervals around the pinion gear.
330224. The gauge bar is gold colored and has a 13. Subtract the smallest feeler gauge reading from the
gauge factor of 0.030 in. (0.762 mm). largest reading. If the difference exceeds 0.002 in. (0.051
7. Rotate the drive shaft bearing carrier to position the mm), the pinion gear is not running true to the drive shaft.
gauge bar exactly between two screw holes. Do not attempt Remove the pinion gear and clean the tapers. Reinstall the
to take any measurements if the gauge bar is positioned pinion gear and repeat Steps 11-13. If the results are still
over a screw hole. unacceptable,either the lower drive shaft or the pinion gear
are distorted and must be replaced. Becausethe lower drive
NOTE
shaft is made of a softer steel, it is usually the cause of the
When using a feeler gauge, a light drag must
be felt as the gauge is pushed and pulled problem. Replace either the lower drive shaft or the pinion
between the surfaces being measured. When gear and repeat this entire procedure.
the correct gauge is determined, venfy your 14. If the bearing carrier and pinion gear are within speci-
results by inserting the next larger, then the fications to this point, determine the average of the meas-
next smaller size gauges between the sur- urements recorded in Steps 8 and 9 by adding the
faces. The next larger gauge must result in a measurements together, then dividing by four. Record this
distinct increase in drag, while the next figure as the averagefeeler gauge measurement.
smaller gauge must result in a distinct de-
crease in drag. Do not twist or cock the
gauge, as this will give an inaccurate result. NOTE
Shims can be reused ifthey are of the correct
8. Next, hold the gauge bar firmly against the pinion gear. thickness and are not bent, kinked or
Then measure the clearance (A, Figure 103) between the grooved.
gauge bar and the drive shaft bearing carrier using a feeler
gauge. Record your reading.
NOTE
The pinion gear cannot be rotated during
Steps 8 and 9 or the results (Step 10) will be
inaccurate.
9. Rotate the drive shaft bearing housing while holding

the pinion gear stationary to position the gauge bar be-
tween the next pair of screw holes and repeat Step 8. Then
v a t this step until a reading is recorded between each
pair of screw holes. This will be a total of four readings.
15A. V4 and V6 series gea~ases-Determine the correct carrier and install the shim pack over the drive shaft and
amount of shimsrequired to locate the pinion gear as follows: against the thrust washer. Then reinstall the drive shaft
I a. Subtract the average feeler gauge measurement ob- bearing carrier and the gauge collar as described pre-
l
tained in Step 14 from the gauge factor of 0.020 in. viously in this procedure.
(0.508 mm). Record this figure as the required shim 17. Venfy that the correct amount of shims by repeating
thickness. Steps 5-9.
b. Shims are available in 0.003, 0.004 and 0.005 in. a. If the average of the feeler gauge readings now
(0.076,0.102 and 0.127 rnm) sizes. Select the shim obtained equals the gauge factor of the gauge bar,
stack-up that will use the least number of shims to the pinion gear is properly shimmed.
obtain the required shim thickness. b. If the readings are very close to being correct (within
15B. V8 series gearcases-Determine the correct amount 0.001-0.002 in. [0.025-0.051 mm]), add or subtract
of shims required to locate the pinion gear as follows: to the thickness of the shim pack to achieve an
a. Subtract the average feeler gauge measurement ob- average feeler gauge clearance equal to the gauge
tained in Step 14 from the gauge factor of 0.030 in. factor of the gauge bar. Verify all corrections by
I (0.762 mm). Record this figure as the required shim repeating Steps 5-9.
I thickness. c. If the new readings are far from being correct, repeat
I b. Shims are available in 0.003, 0.004 and 0.005 in. the entire shimming procedure, using more care.
I (0.076,O. 102 and 0.127 mm) sizes. Select the shim
stack-up that will use the least number of shims to
obtain the required shim thickness. SHIFT SHAFT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION Shift shaft height adjustment is a critical adjustment. If

The shims must be installed between the the shift shaft height is incorrect, the geometry of the
-
drive shaft bearing carrier and the thrust engine-mounted shift linkage will be incorrect and the shift
linkage will have too much throw in one gear and too little
washel:
throw in the other.
16. Remove the dnve shaft assembly from the shim fix- If the shift shaft height is too low, the shift system will
ture' Remove the gauge "liar and drive shaft bearing be biased toward forward gear and the reverse gear will not
receive adequate engagement. If the shift shaft height is '1
too high, the shift system will be biased toward reverse gear
and the forward gear will not receive adequate engage-
ment.
If the clutch dog is not fully engaged into a gear, the
clutch dog will tend to pop out of engagement with that
gear's lugs under acceleration. This will quickly destroy
the engagement lugs as the clutch dog backs out of the gear,
then slams back into the next set of lugs. Eventually the
lugs will become so rounded that the clutch dog will slip
at even low power settings.
Perform the shift shaft height adjustment with the gear-
case removed and the shift mechanism in its NEUTRAL
detent position. This can be quickly found by moving the
shift shaft up and down, while feeling for the detent ball(s)
to engage the detent notch in the shift detent lever. The
propshaft will rotate freely when in NEUTRAL.
The shift shaft height gauge (part No. 389997) or another
accurate measuring device is required for this procedure.
The measurement is always taken from the top of the
gearcase deck (not the shift shaft housing) and the center
of the hole at the top of the shift shaft. Shift shaft height
specifications are listed in Table 3.
To adjust the shift shaft height, refer to Figure 104 and
proceed as follows:
448 CHAPTER NINE
1 . Move the shift shaft up and down (while rotating the and power loss. If the jet drive is mounted too low, exces-
propeller) until you feel the shift mechanism click into its sive drag, water spray and loss in speed will result.
NEUTRAL detent position and the propeller rotates freely.
2. Make sure the shift shaft's offset is facing straight NOTE
forward. When operating in rough or extremely rough
watel; it may be necessary to add a spray
3. Set the shift shaft height gauge (part No. 389997) to the plate or a white water wedge between the
specification listed in Table 3. bottom of the hull and the intake housing. See
4. Set the gauge onto the gearcase-to-exhaust housing Spray Plates, in the next section.
mating surface. Keep the gauge parallel to the shift shaft
and attempt to insert the gauge's pin into the shift shaft's To set the initial height of the outboard motor, proceed
hole. Turn the shaft clockwiseto shorten and counterclock- as follows:
wise to lengthen. The gauge's pin must fit cleanly into the 1. Place a straightedge against the boat bottom and abut
shaft's hole without lifting the gauge from the deck or the end of the straightedge with the jet drive intake.
disturbing the shaft's position when the gauge and shaft 2. The fore edge of the water intake housing must align
are parallel (Figure 104). Readjust as necessary. with the top edge of the straightedge (Figure 105).
5. Once correctly adjusted, make sure the shift shaft's 3. Secure the outboard motor at this setting, then test run
height is not disturbed before the gearcase can be installed. the boat.
4. If cavitation occurs (over-revvingandlor loss of thrust),
JET DRIVE MODELS the outboard motor nus st be lowered in 114 in. (6.35 mm)
increments until uniform operation is noted.
Jet drive models are based on the following basic out-
board models. The standard lower gearcaseis removed and
a jet pump unit installed. An adaptor plate is used on all
models. The adaptor plate does not normally require re-
moval for service procedures.
1. 65 jet-90 hp 90" V4 power head.
2. 80 jet (1995-1997 models)-115 hp 90" V4 cross-flow
power head, available in remote control and tiller handle
models in 1995.
3. 80 jet (1998 models)-115 hp 60" V4 loop-charged
power head.
4. 105 jet-150 hp 60" V6 loop-charged power head.
Service on the power head, ignition, electrical, fuel and
power trim and tilt systems are the same as on propeller-
driven outboard models. Refer to the appropriate chapter
and service section for the engine model and component
serviced. Only service on the jet drive assembly and water
pump is covered in this chapter. Refer to Table 5 for all
torque values and the Quick Reference Data section for
standard torque values and recommended sealants, adhe-
sives and lubricants.
JET PUMP UNIT ADJUSTMENTS

AND MAINTENANCE
Outboard Mounting Height
A jet drive outboard must be mounted higher on the

transom plate than an equivalent propeller-drivenoutboard
motor. However, if the jet drive is mounted too high, air Intake &using Spray plate
will be allowed to enter the jet drive resulting in cavitation
NOTE
A slight amount of cavitation in rough water
WHITE WATER WEDGE and sharp turns is normul. However exces-
sive cavitation will damage the impeller and
can cause power head overheating.
SIDE VIEW 5. If uniform operation is noted with the initial setting,
raise the outboard motor in 114 in. (6.35 mm) increments
until cavitation is noted. Then lower the motor to the last
uniform setting.
NOTE
The outboard motor must be in a vertical
position when the boat is onplane. Adjust the
motor trim setting as needed. If the outboard
trim setting is altered, the outboard motor
height must be checked and adjusted, i f
needed, as previously outlined.
Spray Plates
If the boat is consistently operated in rough or very rough

1. Intake housing water, it may not be possible to achieve optimum perform-
2. White water wedge ance as described in the preceding procedure.
3. 114 in. (6.35 mm)
4. Hull A spray plate (Figure 106) will typically enhance the
performance of a boat operated in rough water. The plate
simply enhances the water flow from the hull to the intake
grate, minimizing the possibility of air being drawn into
the jet drive unit. This generally allows the motor to be
mounted as specified in the preceding section.
63 A white water wedge (Figure 107) typically allows the
boat to be operated in extremely rough water. The wedge
allows the motor to be mounted lower in undisturbed
water, yet ensures smooth water flow into the intake grate.
Outlet nozzle traillng edges The wedge also prevents the intake grate and housing from
creating excessive drag and decreasing performance.
The white water wedge must be 112 in. (12.7 mm)
narrower than the intake grate as shown in Figure 107.
Before modifying the bottom of the hull, consult a dealer-
ship with experience in jet drive units and extremely rough
water operation.
Steering Torque
A minor adjustment to the trailing edge of the drive

outlet nozzle may be made if the boat tends to pull in one
direction when the boat and outboard are pointed in a
straight-aheaddirection. Should the boat tend to pull to the
starboard side, bend the top and bottom trailing edge of the
jet drive outlet nozzle 1116 in. (1.6 mrn) toward the star-
board side of the jet drive. See Figure 108.
CHAPTER NINE
Bearing Lubrication 1. Disconnect the shift cable from the shift cam.
2. Move the shift cam to the NEUTRAL position as shown
Lubricate the jet pump bearing@)after each operating
in Figure 110.
period, after every 10 hours of operation and prior to
storage. In addition, after every 30 hours (15 hours in 3. With the shift cam in the NEUTRAL position, apply
saltwater) of operation, pump additional grease into the upward pressure on the reverse gate and measure the
bearing@)to purge any moisture. clearance between the gate and the water discharge pas-
Lubricate the bearing(s) by first removing the vent hose sage as shown in Figure 110. The clearance must be 15/32
on the side of the jet pump housing to expose the grease in. (11.9 mm). If so, proceed to Step 5. If not, proceed to
fitting. See Figure 109. Use a grease gun and inject OMC Step 4.
EPMrheel Bearing grease into the fitting until grease exits 4. To adjust the gate clearance, loosen the screw securing
the end of the hose. After every 30 hours, pump fresh the eccentric nut (Figure I l l ) , then rotate the eccentric nut
grease into the fitting until all duty grease is expelled and
fresh grease exits from the end of the hose. Reconnect the
vent hose to the fitting when finished.
When lubricating the bearings, note the color of the
grease being expelled from the hose. During the break-in
period some discoloration of the grease is normal. After
the break-in period, the discoloration will be minimal.
If the grease contains moisture or excessive discolora-
tion, the bearing housing must be removed, disassembled,
the bearings inspected and all seals and O-rings replaced
as described later in this chapter.
Directional Control
The boat's operational direction is controlled by a thrust

gate. The thrust gate is controlled by an engine mounted
shift cable and mechanical linkage on tiller handle models
I -
and a remote control shift cable on all remote control THRUSTGATECLEARANCE
models. (NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT)
When the directional control lever is placed in the full
forward position, the thrust gate must completely uncover
the jet drive outlet nozzle and seat securely against arubber
stop on the pump housing. When the directional control
lever is placed in full reverse position, the thrust gate must
completely close off the outlet nozzle opening. Neutral
position is a separate detent on the shift cam plate, located
midway between full forward and full reverse positions.
Thrust Gate Adjustment

(All Models)
The thrust gate adjustment sets the gate opening in the

NEUTRAL position and verifies that the gate is secured
when in the FORWARD position.
WARNING 1. Shift cam

2. Roller In neutral detent
The thrust gate Qdjustment must be correct 3. 15/32 In. (11.9 mm)
or water pressure j b m the boat's forward 4. ~ h r u sgate
t
movement can engage the thrust gate, caus- I
ing REVERSE to engage unexpectedly.
to achieve the specified clearance. When achieved, hold

the eccentric nut in place and tighten the cam screw se-
curely.
5. Move the shift cam to the full FORWARD position as
shown in Figure 112. Attempt to move the thrust gate up
toward the NEUTRAL position. The thrust gate must
remain secured in the FORWARD position and must not
move toward NEUTRAL. If the gate is secure, adjustment
is complete. If not, proceed to Step 6.
6. If the gate is not secure in Step 5, loosen the screw
securing the eccentric nut (Figure Ill), then rotate the
eccentric nut just enough to secure the thrust gate in the
FORWARD position. Do not disturb the adjustment any
more than necessary to secure the gate. When correct
adjustment is achieved, hold the eccentric nut in place and
tighten the cam screw securely.
Shift Linkage Adjustment

(Tiller handle Models)
The shift linkage is properly adjusted if after placing the

directional control lever in the full FORWARD position,
FORWARD POSITION the thrust gate cannot be moved from the FORWARD
ADJUSTMENT position and toward NEUTRAL.
WARNING
Shift linkage adjustment must be correct or
water pressure from the boat's forward
movement can engage the thrust gate, caus-
ing REVERSE to engage unexpectedly.
I
1. Verify that the thrust gate is correctly adjusted as de-
scribed previously in this chapter. , I
2. Disconnect the shift rod from the shift cam on the jet
pump unit and the shift lever on the starboard side of the
power head. Remove the cotter pin and washer from each
clevis pin, then slide the pin from the connector end.
CAUTION
Adequate thread engagement must be rnain-
tained on each end of the shift rod's threaded
connectors. Maintain a minimum thread en-
gagement of fzve full turns on each connec-
tol:
I
3. Loosen the jam nut on each connector. Then adjust each I
1. Shift cam connector to achieve a minimum of five full turns of thread
2. Roller In forward detent I
3. Thrust gate engagement. Tighten each connector's jam nut securely. I

4. Locknut and washer 4. Reattach the upper connector to the shift lever on the
5. Shift cable casing guide I
starboard side of the power head. Align the components,
install the clevis pin and secure the pin with the flat washer l
and new cotter pin. Bend both prongs of the cotter pin for I
a secure attachment. I
CHAPTER NINE
5. Place the directional control lever in the full FOR- 1. Venfy the thrust gate adjustment as described pre-
WARD position. Manually move the shift cam lever to the viously in this chapter.
FORWARD position ( F i i 112). Adjust the lower con- 2. Remove the locknut and washer (4, Figure 112) secur-
nector to align it with the shift cam lever. If necessary, ing the shift cable to the shift cam stud. Pull the shift cable
readjust the upper connectorto maintain aminimum of five from the shift cam stud. Rotate the cable and remove it
full turns of thread engagement. Once the connector is from the anchor block.
aligned with the shift cam lever, install the clevis pin and 3. Reconnect the casing guide (5, Figure 112) to the shift
secure the pin with the flat washer and a new cotter pin. cam stud. Do not install the washer and locknut.
Bend both prongs of the cotter pin for a secure attachment.
6. Attempt to move the thrust gate (3, Figure 112) up
toward the NEUTRAL position. The thrust gate must
remain secured in the FORWARD position and must not
move toward NEUTRAL.If the gate is secure, proceed to
Step 8. If not, proceed to Step 7.
7. If the thrust gate can be moved upward toward the
NEUTRAL position, adjust the lower threaded connector
as necessary to prevent the gate from moving toward
NEUTRAL.
8. Place the directional control lever in the NEUTRAL
detent position. Push up on the thrust gate with moderate
hand pressure. The shift cam must engage the NEUTRAL
detent (2, Figure 110). If not, proceed to Step 9.
9. Adjust the power head-mounted neutral detent as fol-
lows:
a. Loosen (but do not remove) the two neutral detent
screws on the shift lever arm on the starboard side of
the power head. These screws also hold the adaptor
lever that connects the shift rod's upper threaded
r Feeler gauge
connector to the power head shift lever.

b. Manually move the directional control lever to posi-
tion the jet drive unit in the NEUTRAL, position. The
shift cam will positioned as shown in Figure 110.
c. Tighten the two neutral detent screws to 60-84 in.-lb. --.-
---
(6.8-9.5 N~rn). -.
d. Repeat Step 8 to verify the adjustment. Readjust as
necessary.
Shift Cable Adjustment

(Remote Control Models)
The remote control shift cable is properly adjusted if
after placing the directional control lever in the full FOR-
WARD position, the thrust gate cannot be moved from the
FORWARD position toward NEUTRAL.
WARNING
Shift cable adjustment must be correct or
water pressure from the boat's forward
movement can engage the thrust gate, caus-
ing REVERSE to engage unexpectedly. 1. Intake houslng
2. Screws
To adjust the remote control shift cable, proceed as
follows:
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DRIVE UNITS 453 1
4. Place the remote control shift lever into the full FOR- 7. Place the directional control lever in the NEUTRAL
WARD (and full throttle) position. Pull on the shift cable's detent position. Push up on the thrust gate with moderate
adjustment barrel to remove all slack from the system and hand pressure. The shift cam must engage the NEUTRAL
seat the shift cam in the full FORWARD position as shown detent as shown in 2, Figure 110. If not, adjust the cable
in Figure 112. barrel slightly and recheck NEUTRAL detent engage-
5. Hold the shift cable barrel centered over the anchor ment.
bracket. Adjust the shift cable barrel to align with its anchor 8. Place the remote control shift lever in the full FOR-
bracket. WARD (and fullthrottle) position.
9. Attempt to move the thrust gate (3, Figure 112) toward
6. Reinstall the cable barrel into the anchor bracket and
reconnect the cable guide to the shift cam stud. the NEUTRAL position. The thrust gate must remain
secured in the FORWARD position and must not move
toward NEUTRAL.If the gate is secure, proceed to Step
11. If not, proceed to Step 10.
10. If the thrust gate can be moved upward, toward the
IMPELLER
NEUTRAL position, readjust the cable barrel as necessary
to prevent the gate from moving toward NEUTRAL.
REMOVAIJINSTALLATION
11. After the correct adjustment is obtained, securely
tighten the cable casing guide retaining nut (4, Figure 112)
I
- ----- until it bottoms, then back the nut off 118 to 114 turn.
Impeller Clearance Adjustment and Impeller

RemovaYInstallation
/ - If a loss of high speed performance andlor a higher than
normal full-throttle engine speed (not boat speed) is evi-
dent, check the clearance between the edge of the impeller
and the water intake casing liner. Also, check the leading
1 edge@) of the impeller for wear or damage. If worn or
damaged, refer to Worn impeller in this chapter.
NOTE
Impeller wear can occur quickly when oper-
2 ated in water with excessive silt, sand or
gravel.
1. Discomect the spark plug leads to prevent accidental
starting.
2. Using a feeler gauge set, determine the clearance be-
tween the impeller blades and the intake liner. See Figure
r3 113.
v4
3. The impeller-to-linerclearance must be 0.020-0.030 in.
(0.51-0.76 mm).
4. If the clearance is not as specified,remove the six water
5+ intake housing mounting screws. Remove the intake hous-
ing. See Figure 114, typical.
-6 5. Bend the tabs on the tab washer retaining the impeller
nut to allow a suitable tool to be installed on the impeller
1. Plastic sleeve
2. lmpeller nut. Remove the nut, tab washer, lower shims impeller,
3. Drive key drive key, plastic sleeve and upper shims. Note the number
4. Shims (upper and lower) of lower and upper shims. See Figure 115.
5. Locklng tab washer
6. lmpeller nut NOTE
If the impeller is stuck to the drive shaft, use
a block of wood and hummer to rotate the
CHAPTER NINE
impeller in the opposite direction of normal 2. Sharpen the impeller by removing material (with a flat
rotation. Rotate the impeller just enough to file) from the lower surface of the leading edge(s) as shown
free the drive key and allow impeller rein Figure 116. Do not remove material from the upper
moval. surface or alter the top side lifting angle of the impeller.
3. When finished, file or sand a 1/32 in. (0.8 mm)radius
6. If the clearance is excessive, remove shims as needed
on the leading edge(s) as shown in Figure 116.
from below the impeller and position them above the
impeller. Moving one shim changes the clearance by ap- 4. Reinstall the impeller and recheck the impeller clear-
proximately 0.004 in. (0.102 mm). ance as described in the previous section.
NOTE
Lubricate the impeller shaft, impeller sleeve Cooling System Hushing
and drive key with OMC Triple Guard
Grease, prior to reassembly. The cooling system can become plugged by sand and
salt deposits if it is not flushed occasionally. Clean the
7. Install the impeller with the selected number of shims. cooling system after each use in salt, brackish or silt-laden
Hold the upper shims to the drive shaft with grease. Then water. Refer to Chapter Four for the cooling system flush-
position the plastic sleeve in the impeller and install the ing procedure.
impeller, drive key and lower shims.
8. Install a new tab washer and the impeller retaining nut
on the drive shaft. Tighten the nut to 16-18ft-lb. (21.7-24.4 Water Pump
N.m). Do not bend the tabs on the tab washer at this time.
The water pump is located at the top of the jet pump unit
9. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the threads
on all models. The pump is bolted directly to the jet pump
of the intake housing retaining screws. Install the housing
and screws. Tighten the screws finger-tight.
NOTE
The intake housing can be moved slightly on SHARPENING IMPELLER
its mounting to center the liner over the
impellel:
10. Rotate the impeller to check for rubbing or binding.
Make sure the housing is centered over the impeller.
11. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to recheck impeller clearance.
Readjust clearance as necessary.
12. After correct clearance is obtained, remove the intake
housing screws and housing. Make sure the impeller nut is
tightened to 16-18 ft.-lb. (21.7-24.4 N.m), then lock the
nut in place with the tab washer. Make sure the tabs are
bent up securely against the nut.
13. Reinstall the intake housing, again making sure the
housing is centered on the impeller. Tighten the housing
screws in a crossing pattern to 10-12 ft.-lb. (13.6-16.3
N.m).
Worn impeller
SECTIONAL
The leading edge(s) of the impeller can become worn 1 VIEW
due to the ingestion of gravel, silt and other debris. If a
noticeable performance loss, increased wide-open throttle 1. Lower surface
(remove material here)
speed, or difficulty in getting the boat on plane is noted, 2. Upper surface
check the leading edge(s) of the impeller for wear or (do not remove material here)
damage. 3. Leading edge
1. If the leading edge(s) is damaged, remove the impeller (round to 1/32 in. [0.8 mm] radius)
as described in the previous section.
LOWER GEARCASE AND JET DFUVE UNITS 455
unit housing. Water pump service is covered along with the Pump Unit Removal
propeller-driven models
JET PUMP UNIT SERVICE 2. Tilt the outboard to the fully UP position and engage
the tilt lock lever, securely block the exhaust housing or
When removing thejet drive mounting fasteners, it is not support the exhaust housing with a suitable hoist.
uncommon to find that they are corroded. Such fasteners 3A. Remote control models-Remove the nut and washer
must be discarded and new ones installed. Apply OMC (4, Figure 112) securing the shift cable casing guide to the
Gasket Sealing Compound to the threads of the mounting stud on the shift cam. Pull the casing guide from the stud,
screws during installation. then rotate the shift cable as necessary to disengage the
adjustment barrel from the anchor bracket.
3B. Tiller handle models-Disconnect the shift rod from
the shift cam on the jet pump unit. Remove the cotter pin
and washer from the clevis pin, then slide the pin from the
connector end.
PUMP UNIT 4. Remove the six water intake housing mounting screws
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (Figure 114). Remove the intake housing.
5. Bend the tabs on the impeller nut tab washer away from
the impeller nut. Remove the impeller nut and tab washer
(Figure 115). Discard the tab washer.
NOTE
Note the number and location of - impeller
-
adjustment shims for reference during reas-
sembly.
6. Remove the shims located below the impeller and note

the number. Remove the impeller and the shims located
above the impeller and note the number.
7. Slide the impeller sleeve and drive key off the drive shaft.
8. Remove the four internal screws (1, Figure 117) lo-
cated inside of the impeller cavity. Then remove the exter-
nal screw and spacer (2, Figure 117 typical) at the rear of
the exhaust housing. Support the pump unit as the last
screw is removed.
9. Remove the jet pump unit by pulling it straight down and
away from the exhaust housing until the drive shaft is free
from the housing. Place the pump unit on a clean workbench.
10. Remove and discard the water tube and drive shaft
grommets.
Pump Unit Installation
1. Glue a new drive shaft grommet to the top of the water

pump housing using OMC Adhesive M sealant. Use the
sealant sparingly. Then install a new water tube grommet
into the water pump housing.
1. internal screws
2. External screw CAUTION
Do not apply lubricant to the top of the drive
shaft in the next step. Excess lubricant be-
tween the top of the drive shaft and the
engine crankshaft can create a hydraulic
CHAPTER NINE
lock, preventing the drive shaft Ji-omfully 4. Remove and discard the three O-rings (3, Figure 119)
engaging the crankshafr. from bearing housing-to-exhaust housing mating surface.
2. Clean the drive shaft splines as necessary, then coat the
splines with OMC Moly Lube. Installation
3. Position the jet pump unit under the exhaust housing
and push the pump unit toward the exhaust housing. 1. Glue three new O-rings (using OMC Adhesive M
sealant) into the recesses (2, Figure 119) on the mating
CAUTION surface of the bearing housing. Use the sealant sparingly.
Do not rotate theflywheel counterclockwise Allow the sealant to dry, then lubricate the O-rings with
in the next step or the water pump impeller OMC Triple Guard Grease.
will be damaged. 2. Install the bearing housing and drive shaft assembly
into the pump unit housing. Make sure the retainer screw
4. Continue pushing the pump unit toward the exhaust
holes are aligned and that the O-rings are not displaced
housing. Rotate the flywheel clockwise (as required) to
during installation.
align the drive shaft and crankshaft splines.Align the water
tube with the water pump's guide, then seat the pump unit 3. Coat the threads of the four bearing housing screws
against the exhaust housing. with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound.
5. Coat the threads of the five mounting screws with OMC 4. Install the four housing retaining screws (Figure 118).
Gasket Sealing Compound. Evenly tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
6. Secure the pump unit to the exhaust housing with the 5. Install the water pump assembly as described in Chap-
four internal screws and one external screw and spacer. See ter Nine.
Figure 117, typical. Evenly tighten the mounting screws 6. Install the jet pump unit as described previously in this
to 18-20 ft.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N.m). section. Lubricate the jet pump unit bearings before opera-
tion as described in this chapter.
NOTE
Install the original amount of upper and
lower impeller shims (as noted during disas- Disassembly (All Models)
sembly) if the original impeller and intake
liner are being used. I f a new impeller or Refer to Figure 120 and Figure 121 for this procedure.
liner is installed, start with no upper shims, The snap ring that secures the drive shaft bearings is only
carefully adding shims until the correct shown in Figure 121. The snap ring fits into a groove (in
clearance is obtained.
7. Install the impeller and water intake housing and check

the impeller clearance as described in Impeller Clearance
Adjustment and Impeller RemovaMnstallation. 1- BEARING HOUSING
8. Connect and adjust the shift link rod (tiller handle
models) or shift cable (remotecontrol models) as described
previously in this Chapter.
9. Reconnect the spark plug leads.
DRTVE SHAFT AND BEARING HOUSING
Removal
1. Remove the pump unit as described previously in this

section.
2. Remove the water pump assembly.
3. Remove the four screws (Figure 118) securing the
bearing housing and drive shaft assembly to the pump unit
housing. Withdraw the bearing housing and drive shaft
assembly for the pump unit housing and place it on a clean
work bench.
LOWER GEARCASE AND JETDRIVE UNITS 457
the drive shaft) located directly under the lower bearing the shaft should not require a great amount of effort to
(10, Figure 120). remove.
1. Remove the bearing housing and drive shaft assembly 5. Allow the components to cool before proceeding.
from the jet pump housing as described previously in this 6. Remove both seals from the bearing housing as follows:
chapter. a. Remove the inner seal's retaining ring (13, Figure
2. Remove the snap ring (3, Figure 120) from the bore in 120) by hooking its tang with a small screwdriver or
the top of the bearing housing with a suitable pair of awl. Lift the ring from its groove in a circular,
internal snap ring pliers. unwinding motion.
3. Support the bearing housing in a press with the impeller b. Drive the inner seal (14, Figure 120)into the interior
end of the drive shaft facing up. Heat the housing with a of the bearing carrier with a suitable punch. Do not
heat gun, heat lamp, or propane torch until it is thoroughly damage the seal bore. Discard the seal.
warmed, yet not so hot that the grease (and seals) melts or c. Remove the outer seal's retaining ring (15, Figure
smokes. Do not apply heat to the drive shaft. 120) in the same manner as the inner seal's ring.
d. Drive the outer seal out (16, Figure 120) from the
CAUTION interior of the housing with a suitable punch. Do not
Wear insulated gloves when handling the damage the seal bore. Discard the seal.
heated housing. 7. Remove the upper seal carrier from the drive shaft. The
carrier (6, Figure 120), seals (4) and retaining rings (5) are
4. Press on the impeller end of the drive shaft until it is serviced as an assembly.
freefrom the bearing housing. If the shaft sticks, repeat the 8. Slide the thrust washer (8, Figure 120) from the drive
application of heat and try again. When properly heated, shaft.
9. If the drive shaft bearings require replacement, remove
both bearings as follows:
a. Remove the snap ring (11, Figure 121) with a pair
of external snap ring pliers.
O-RING LOCATION b. Support the upper bearing in a knife-edged bearing
plate, then press against the impeller end of the drive
shaft until both bearings are free of the shaft.
c. Discard the bearings.
d. If the retaining ring (2, Figure 121)requires replace-
ment, remove and discard it.
Assembly (All Models)

Replace all seals and O-rings. If the drive shaft bearings
were removed, they must be discarded and new bearings
installed. Lubricate all seals and O-rings with OMC Triple
Guard Grease.
When installing the new bearing, press only on its inner
race or the bearing will be destroyed. The bearings must
be installed so that the wide thrust shoulders are positioned
as shown in Figure 122. Refer to Figure 120 and Figure
121 for this procedure.
1. If the drive shaft bearings were removed, reassemble
the drive shaft as follows:
a. If the retaining ring (2, Figure 121) was removed,
install a new ring into its groove on the drive shaft.
1. Drive shaft b. Lubricate a new lower drive shaft bearing and the
bearing housing drive shaft with OMC EP/Wheel Bearing grease.
2. Recessed holes Then slide the bearing over the power head end of
3. O-rings the drive shaft with the numbered side of the bearing
facing away from the impeller end of the shaft. See
Figure 122.
458 CHAPTER NINE
DRIVE SHAFT AND BEARING HOUSING ASSEMBLY

(EXPLODED VIEW)
1. Drive shaft
2. Retaining ring
3. Snap ring 10. Lower drive shaft bearing
4. Upper seals 11. Bearing housing
5. Retaining rings 12. O-rings
6. Upper seal carrier 13. Retaining ring
14. inner lower seal
8. Thrust washer 15. Retaining ring
9. Upper drive shaft bearing 16. Outer lower seal
DRIVE SHAFT AND BEARING HOUSING ASSEMBLY

(SECTIONAL VIEW)
12
Impeller 17
1. Drive shalt 10. Lower drive shalt bearing

2. Bearing retaining ring 11. Snap rlng
3. Seal carrier retaining ring 12. Bearing houslng
4. Upper seal lip 13. O-rings
5. Vent hole 14. Retaining ring
6. Upper seal carrier 15. Inner lower seal
7. O-rings 16. Retaining rlng
8. Thrust washer 17. Outer lower seal
9. Upper drive shalt bearing
CHAPTER NINE
c. Press against the inner race of the bearing until it is f. Install the second retaining ring (14, Figure 121)
seated against the retaining ring. Do not press on the over the inner seal and into its groove. Make sure the
bearing's outer race. ring has fully seated into its groove.
d. Lubricate a new upper drive shaft bearing and the g. Lubricate the seal lips and pack the area between the
drive shaft with OMC EP/Wheel Bearing grease. seals with OMC Triple Guard Grease.
Then slide the bearing over the power head end of 6. Pack the cavity in the bearing housing between the seals
the drive shaft with the numbered side of the bearing and the bearing bore with OMC EP/Wheel Bearing grease.
facing away from the impeller end of the shaft. See
7. Support the bearing housing in a press with the bearing
Figure 122.
bore facing up (seals facing down). Carefully insert the
e. Press against the inner race of the bearing until it is
seated against the lower bearing. Do not press on the
bearing's outer race.
f. Secure the bearings in place by installing the snap
ring (11,Figure 121)into the drive shaft groove with
@ BEARING ORIENTATION
(ALL MODELS)
a suitable pair of external snap ring pliers. Make sure
the sharp edge of the ring faces away from the
bearings and that the ring is fully seated into the
groove.
2. Slidethe thrust washer over the impeller end of the drive
shaft and up against the collar. The washer is bowed
(curved). Install the washer so that its bow faces the top of
the drive shaft. The washer must only contact the bearing's
outer race.
3. Grease the seal lips (4, Figure 120) of a new upper seal
carrier (6) with OMC Triple Guard grease. If the O-rings
(7) are not included with the carrier, install two new
O-rings (lubricated with OMC Triple Guard Grease) into shoulder
the grooves on the carrier's outer diameter.
4. Carefully slide the upper seal carrier over the drive shaft
and seat it against the spacer. Then set the drive shaft aside
temporarily.
5. Install new seals into the bearing housing as follows:
a Position the housing so that the seal bore is facing
up (bearing bore facing down).
b. Install the retaining ring (16, Figure 121) into the
groove closest to the outer edge (impeller side) of
the carrier. Position the ring so that its notched ends
are positioned over the small lubrication vent hole in
the seal bore.
c. Coat the outer diameter of the outer seal (17, Figure
121) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, then
position the seal into the bore with the seal lip facing
up. Press the seal into the bore until it contacts the
retaining ring.
d. Invert the bearing housing so that the bearing bore is
facing up (seal bore facing down).
e. Coat the outer diameter of the inner seal (15, Figure
121) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, then
position the seal into the seal bore (from the bearing
side) with the spring side of the seal facing down. 1. Intake housing
Press the seal into the bore until it contacts the 2. Screws
retaining ring.
impeller end of the drive shaft assembly into the bearing 10. Push the upper seal carrier into its bore with hand
housing and insert the bearing into its bore. Be careful not pressure. The snap ring groove is visible when the carrier
to damage the seals with the drive shaft. is seated.
8. Heat the bearing carrier with a heat gun, heat lamp or a 11. Install the retaining ring (3, Figure 121) into the
propane torch. Do not heat the carrier above the point bearing housing with the beveled side of the ring facing up
where it can no longer be comfortablytouched. Do not heat using a suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers. Make sure
the carrier to the point that the grease begins to melt. the ring has fully expanded into its groove.
12. Install the drive shaft and bearing housing onto the jet
9. Press against the impeller end of the drive shaft until
pump unit as described in this chapter.
the shaft is seated in the carrier. This should only require
moderate pressure.
WATER INTAKE HOUSING LINER
Replacement
WATER INTAKE
LINER REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the six water intake housing mounting screws
(2, Figure 123). Then pull the water intake housing down
and away from the pump unit housing.
2. Mark or tag the liner screws for reassembly in the same
location, then remove the screws and washers. See Figure
124.
3. Tap the liner loose by inserting a long drift punch
through the intake housing grate. Place the punch on the
edge of the liner and tap with a hammer.
4. Withdraw the liner from the liner housing.
5. Install the new liner into the intake housing. See Figure
124.
6. Align the liner screw holes with their respective intake
housing holes. Gently tap the liner into with a soft
hammer if necessary.
7. Apply OMC Gasket Sealing Compound to the threads
of the liner retaining screws.
8. Install the liner retaining screws. Evenly and securely
tighten the screws.
9. Remove any burrs from the inner diameter of the liner
and grind the end of the screws as necessary to ensure a
1. Water Intake housing flush inner surface.
2. Intake liner 10. Install the intake housing and set the impeller clear-
3. Screws and washers ance as describedpreviouslyin Impeller ClearanceAdjust-
ment and Impeller RemovaUlnstallation.
Table 1 GEARCASE GEAR RATIO AND APPROXIMATE LUBRICANT CAPACITY

I Outboard model Gear ratio Tooth count Lubricant capacity 1
V4 models
90" (cross-flow) 26 02 (769 ml) I
Long shaft (20 in.) models 2:l
33 oz. (976 ml)
26 oz. (769 ml)

I
Extra-long shaft
(25 in.) models 2.25:l 33 oz. (976 ml)
(continued) I
CHAPTER NINE
Table 1 GEARCASE GEAR RATIO AND APPROXIMATE LUBRICANT CAPACITY (continued)

Outboard model Gear ratio Tooth count Lubricant capacity I
V6 models
Standard ratio 1.86:l 1426 33 oz. (976 ml)
High-altiiude ratio 2:l 13:26 33 oz. (976 mi)
V8 models 1.76:l 17:30 71 oz. (2099 ml)
65-105 jet models Not appllcable
Table 2 TORQUE VALUES (PROPELLER-DRIVEN MODELS)

Component in.-lb. it.-lb. N.m
Anode
Gearcase housing
Propshaff bearing carrier
Counterrotation models
Forward gear set screws 016)
Forward gear assembiy
Drain and vent plugs
Drive shaft bearing carrier
Gearcase mounting
V4 series gearcases
3/8 in. screws
7/16 in. screw
V6 and V8 series gearcases
3 8 in. screws
7116 in. screw
Pinion bearing retaining screw
Pinion nut
V8 series gearcase
Propshaff bearing carrier
V4 series gearcases
Retaining rings models
Tab style models
Propeller nut
V4 series gearcase*
Shift shaft houslng
Trim tab
Water pump
Mounting screws
Water tube guide
I After torquing, continue tightening until the nearest cotter pin hole aligns. I
Table 8 QEARCASE SPECIFICATIONS

Component Speoiflcatlon (or part No.)
Forward gear end play 016 counter-rotation) 0.001 in. (0.025 mm)
Pinion gear shimming
V4 series gearcase (90" [cross-flow])
Gauge bar Part No. 328366
Clearance dimension 0.020 in. (0.508 mm)
Gauge collar Part No. 341440
I (continued)
~
I
Table 3 GEARCASE SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Component SpecHlcation (or part No.)
Pinion gear shimming (continued)
V4 series gearcase (60")
Clearance dlmension 0.020 in. (0.508 mm)
V6 series gearcase
V8 series gearcase
Required remote control box shlft stroke
Neutral to Forward 1.125-1.330 in. (28.58-33.78 mm)
Shift shaft height (in NEUTRAL)
90" v4 (cross-flow)
Long shaft (20 in.) 21-13/16 to 21-718 in. (554.27-555.63 mm)
Extra-longshaft (25 in.) 26-13/16 to 26-718 in. (681.04-682.63 mm)
60" V4 and V6
Long shaft (20 in.) 21-3/32 to 21-5/32 in. (535.79-537.36 mm)
Extra-longshaft (25 In.) 26-3/32 to 26-5/32 in. (662-79-664.36 mm)
Long shaft (20 In.) 21-29/32 to 21-31/32 in. (556.41-558.01 mm)
Extra-longshaft (25 In.) 26-29/32 to 26-31/32 in. (683.41-685.01 mm)
Extra, extra-long shaft (30 in.) 31-29/32 to 31-31/32 in. (810.41-812.01 mm
Long shaft (20 in.) 22-314 to 22-718 in. (577.85-581.03 mm)
Extra-long shaft (25 in.) 2 7 4 4 to 27-718 in. (704.85-708.03 mm)
Extra, extra-long shaft (30 In.) 3 2 4 4 to 32-718 in. (831.85-835.03 mm)
Table 4 SPECIAL TOOLS

Description Part No. Models
Spline socket 311875 All
Drive shaft seal protector 318674 All
Plate 325867 All
Seal installer 326551 V4 series3
Bearing installer 328828 V8 series
Gauge bar 330224 V8 serles
Seal installer 330268 AIP
Puller legs2 330278 V8 series
Pinion nut wrench 334455 All
Bearing installer 339750 V6 and V8 series
Bearing Installer 339778 V6 serles2
Bearing installer 340820 V6 and V8 series
Wrench retainer 341438 ~ll'
Seal installer 341439 V6 and V8 series4
Gauge collar 341440 All
Pinion nut starter 342216 All
Seal Installer 342665 V4 series4
Lower drive shaft puller 342681 All
Puller kit 378103 See text
Shifi shaft height gauge 389997 All
Drive shaft puller 390706 All
Slide hammer 391008 All
Pinion bearing service kit 391257 All
(continued)
464 CHAPTER NINE
Table 4 SPECIAL TOOLS (continued)

Description Part No. Models
Drive shaft shimmlng kit 393185 All
Gauge bar 328366 V4 (90" cross-flow) serles
Gauge bar 328367 V4 (60°) and V6 series
Puller bridgehhreadedrod 432127 All
Slide hammer 432128 Counter-rotation models
Two-jaw puller (wide) 432129 Ail
Two-Jawpuller (narrow) 432131 All
Sllde hammer adaptor 432398 Counter-rotation models
Spanner wrench 432399 V8 series2
Spanner wrench 432400 V6 series2
Bearing installer 432401 Counter-rotation models
1. Standard-rotatlonmodels.
2. Counter-rotation models.
3. Models with two single-lipped seals.
4. Models wlth one double-lipped seal.
Table S TORQUE VALUES [JET DRIVES)

Component in.-lb. St-lb. Nom
Bearing housing 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
Impeller nut 192-216 1618 21.7-24.4
Intake housing 120-144 10-12 13.616.3
Jet pump mounting - 18-20 24.4-27.1
Thrust gate 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
Thrust gate cam roller 60-84 - 6.8-9.5
Water pump 60-84 - 6.8-9.5

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Ten
Trim and Tilt Systems
Trimming refers to the process of changing the angle of Power trim and tilt was developed to provide an easy and
the propeller shaft relative to the bottom of the boat, or convenient way to infinitely change the trim angle while
more simply, changing the trim angle. Trimming the out- under way and allow hands free tilting of the motor for
board motor UP (out or away from the transom) raises the trailer loading or beaching.
bow of the boat, while trimming the motor DOWN (in or OMC uses both manual (gas-charged) tilt systems and
toward the transom) lowers the bow. power (electro-hydraulic) trim and tilt systems. The term
On models without any form of power trim and tilt, the integral refers to components located between the stem
motor must be raised and lowered manually. The reverse brackets, while the term external refers to components
lock must be released and the motor lifted by hand. To located outside of the stem brackets or inside of the boat.
change the trim angle of the motor, the trim limit rod must All OMC trim and tilt systems are integral.
be moved to another set of holes in the stem brackets. See This section includes maintenance, component replace-
Figure 1,typical. On the models covered in this manual, ment and troubleshooting procedures for manual and
there are five available trim rod positions. Different oper- power trim and tilt systems. a b l e 1lists amperage speci-
ating conditions and changes to the boat load will require fications, test equipment and tools, Table 2 and Table 3
frequent changes to the trim limit rod position to maximize list specifications, Table 4 lists torque values and Tables
boat performance and efficiency. 5-8 list troubleshooting procedures. All tables are located
at the end of the chapter.
Using Power Tkim and Tilt
While a power trim and tilt system can be operated at

any time, it is not recommended to change trim angle while
operating in reverse gear. Normally, perform trim changes
before accelerating onto plane, after the boat has reached
planing speed, when there is a weight distribution change
in the boat or changing water (or wind) conditions require
it. Correct adjustment of the trim angle ensures maximum
performance and efficiency under any given load and
speed condition.
CHAPTER TEN
Trim the outboard motor out as necessary to achieve a outboard motor to kick up when operating in reverse gear
bow-up position for cruising, running with choppy waves or trail out when decelerating. Both of these conditions
or to achieve maximum performance when running at will cause a loss of control. Any defect noted in the trim
wide-open throttle. Excessive trim UP will cause propeller and tilt system must be repaired immediately, before re-
ventilation, a reduction in performance (propeller slip- turning the boat to service.
page) and possible propeller damage from cavitation
burns.
Trim the outboard motor in as necessary to hold the bow MANUAL TILT-ASSIST CYLINDER
down when accelerating onto plane, operating at slow
speeds or running against choppy waves. Excessive trim All 90"V4 cross-flow manual tilt models (not equipped
IN at high speed will cause the bow to plow or dive into with power tilt and trim) use a gas-charged cylinder to
the water, making handling difficult and some hulls unsta- assist the operator in manually tilting the engine. See
ble. Figure 3. The cylinder also acts as a shock absorberduring
Trimming the outboard motor cannot correct opera- impact. The cylinder is not serviceable and is simply
tional problems resulting h m overloading or incorrectly replaced when it loses its charge (fails to assist in tilting)
loading the hull. Trimming also will not overcome an or develops any external leakage.
incorrect engine installation, poor hull design or hull
flaws, such as a hook or rocker (Figure 2). WARNING
Trimming the outboardmotor to the point that the swivel Do not attempt to disassemble the cylindel:
bracket is no longer supported by the stern brackets is The cylinder contains a high pressure gas
considered tilting. The tilt function is normally used to charge and could burst during any attempts
reduce the draft of the boat for shallow water operation, at disassembly.
beaching or launching andlor loading or transporting the
boat.
Do not operate the outboard motor above 1000 speed Manual Tilt Assist Cylinder Service
when the unit is in the tilt range and in no case can the
motor be operated if the cooling water intakes are above The only maintenance required is periodic lubrication
the water. of the upper and lower pivot pins (3 and 8, Figure 3) with
A malfunction of the trim and tilt system can result in a heavy-duty penetrating lubricant, such as OMC 6-in-1
the loss of the reverse lock function. This can cause the Lubricant or OMC Anticorrosion Spray.
--- - - --- - - .
- ----
/ - - -
-
4-
-
- - ---
-
HOOK
_ . . --
_ / - - - -- - - -
-
C
C _ _ - A -
-- -_
.-. _-
- --
*
ROCKER
TRIM AND TILT SYSTEMS 467
MANUAL TILT ASSIST CYLINDER

(SO0 V4 [CROSS-FLOW] MODELS)
1. Swivel housing 9. Starboard stern

2. Locking clip bracket
3. Upper pivot pin 10. Port stem bracket
4. Bushings 11. Screw and washer
5. Tilt cylinder 12. Rim limit rod
6. Set screw 13. Spring
7. Mountlng bracket 14. Anode
8. Lower pivot pin 15. Screw
CHAPTER TEN
Manual Tilt Cylinder Removal POWER TRIM AND TILT SYSTEMS
This procedure applies only to 90" V4 cross-flowmodels A power trim and tilt system is available as standard
without power trim and tilt. Refer to Figure 3 for this equipment on all models except selected 1995-1997 88
procedure. and 90 Special models and the 1995 80 jet drive tiller
1. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and handle model. Manual tilt models can be converted to
engage the tilt lock, support the gearcase with a hoist or power trim and tilt with the appropriate conversion kit
block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling from OMC Genuine Parts. See your EvinrudeIJohnson
during this procedure. dealership.
2. Remove the locking clip (Figure 4) from one end of the
upper pivot pin.
3. Drive the upper pivot pin from the swivel bracket with
System Description (General)
a suitable punch. The power trim and tilt system consists of:
4. Remove the trim limit rod from the stem bracket as- a. A reversible electric motor operated fromtheremote
sembly. Note the position of the pin for reassembly. control and/or a dash-mounted switch.
5. Remove the four screws and washers securing the tilt b. A hydraulic pump and fluid reservoir assembly.
cylinder mounting bracket to the stern bracket assembly.
c. A single tilt cylinder and two trim rams. All tilt
See7 and 11,Figure3.
cylinders, trim and tilt cylinders and trim rams are
6. Pull the tilt cylinder and mounting bracket assembly integral.
from the stem brackets.
d. Electrical wiring, control switch(es), fuse and two
7. Remove the set screw (6, Figure 3) securing the lower relays.
pivot pin into the bracket. Then drive the lower pivot pin
e. Sacrificial anode(s) mounted on the stem bracket(s)
from the bracket with a suitable punch.
to control corrosion.
8. Remove the four pivot pin bushings (4, Figure 3) from
Power trim and tilt systems incorporate several special
the tilt cylinder.
hydraulic circuits:
1. Impact-This circuit is designed to absorb and dissi-
Manual Tilt Cylinder Installation pate the energy of an impact with an underwater object,
while in forward motion. It does not protect the unit from
Use OMC Triple Guard Grease for all grease applica- impact damage when backing up. The circuit allows the
tions. Refer to Figure 3 for this procedure. hydraulic system to act as a shock absorber. High pressure
1. Grease the pivot pin bushings and install them into the springs and check balls in the tilt cylinder piston, vent
tilt cylinder's upper and lower pivot pin bores. hydraulic fluid to the opposite side of the piston when the
2. Grease the lower pivot pin. Position the tilt cylinder into pressure caused by the impact reaches a predetermined
the mounting bracket and align the pivot pin bores. Then value. When fluid is vented, the engine is allowed to tilt up
install the lower pivot pin and center it in its bore. as necessary, dissipating the energy of the impact.
3. Coat the threads of the lower pivot pin set screw (6, 2. Reverse lock-Reverse lock is a function of multiple
Figure 3) with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound. Install circuits in the system. Its function is to hold the gearcase
the set screw into the mounting bracket and tighten it to
24-26 in.-lb. (2.7-2.9 N.m).
4. Position the mounting bracket and cylinder assembly
into the stem brackets.
5. Coat the threads of the four bracket screws with OMC
Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive. Then align the screw
holes and install the screws and washers. Evenly tighten
the screws to 18-20ft.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N.m).
6. Grease the upper pivot pin. Align the tilt cylinder rod
eye with the swivel bracket bore, then install the pin.
Secure the pin by installing the locking clip (Figure 4).
7. Reinstall the trim limit rod (12, Figure 3) to the stern
bracket assembly in the position noted during disassembly.
8. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or remove the
blocks and lower the outboard.
TRIM AND TILT SYSTEMS
in the water during reverse thrust. Reverse thrust occurs the operator tries to exceed the maximum trim out limit
during deceleration and when operating in reverse gear. If while under way, the electric motor and pump will run, but
the gearcase is not held in the water during deceleration the unit can trim no higher as the internal valving will
and reverse gear operation, the operator will not have bypass the pump's output to prevent additional trimming
control of the boat. out.
3. Manual release-The manual release valve allows the 5. T h e m 1 expansion-The thermal expansion circuit
operator to raise or lower the engine should the electric protects the system from the destructive effects of the
motor or hydraulic system not function. The valve can be hy@aulic fluid expanding as it warms. By nature, hydrau-
opened and the engine positioned as desired. After posi- lic fluid is incompressible, yet it will expand and contract
tioning the engine, the manual release valve must be closed as temperature fluctuates. If the system is subjected to a
for the engine to hold position and for the impact and temperature increase, the fluid will expand. Since the
reverse lock circuits to function. Manual release valves system is sealed, there is no place for the fluid to expand.
must never be totally unscrewed (except during disassem- If unchecked, the internal hydraulic pressure will increase
bly). Refer to Manual Release Valve Operation, located in significantly and hydraulically lock the system. Pressure
this chapter, for additional information. may also increase enough to burst the cylinder andlor
manifold, if unchecked. The thermal expansion valve is
WARNING designed to open at a predeterminedpressure, venting fluid
Do not operate a boat with the manual re- to the reservoir and protecting the system from hydraulic
lease valve opened. lock-up and damage.
4. Hydraulic trim limit-Internal hydraulic valving is
used to limit the maximum amount of positive trim the unit System Identification
can achieve while under way. The trim range is limited to
approximately 15" (Conventional systems) or 21" (Fas- Two different power trim and tilt systems are used on
Trak systems). The engine can be tilted higher than this outboard motors covered in this manual and are described
when operating below planing speeds or when trailering in the following sections.
the boat. If the unit is tilted above 15 (or 21) degrees
positive trim and the operator attempts to plane out or
accelerate the boat, propeller thrust will overcome the tilt Conventional trim and tilt system
(or trim) relief valve and the unit will trim down to the
maximum trim out (approximately 15 or 21") position. If The followingmodels use the OMC Conventional 3-ram
integral power trim and tilt system:
1. 85 BackTroller (1995) models.
2. 80jet drive (1995) tiller handle models.
3. V8 (250 and 300 hp) models.
This system is referred to as the conventional system in
this manual. See Figure 5.
A trim gauge sending unit is standard equipment. The
sending unit is mounted on the inner surface of the port
stern bracket. The sending unit can only be accessed when
the outboard is tilted fully UP.
A tilt (and trailer) lock is provided to relieve the pressure
on the hydraulic system when trailering or during storage.
The tilt lock is attached to the swivel bracket. To engage
the tilt lock, tilt the outboard to the fully UP position. Move
the tilt lock arms into position over the stern brackets, then
trim the outboard down until the trim rams are fully
retracted and the motor is pulled finnly against the lock.
FmTrak trim and tilt system
The following models use the OMC FasTrak three-ram

integral power trim and tilt system:
CHAPTER TEN
1. 60 and 90" V4 and V6 models-This includes 90-225 lead) take care of switching the polarity of the green and
hp models, 80 jet drive (1998 models) and 105 jet drive blue leads to change the motor direction.
models.
When the blue lead is connected to positive and the
2. 90" V4 cross-flow m o d e l s 4 y the following 90" V4 green lead is grounded, the motor runs in the UP direction.
cross-flow models are equipped with the FasTrak system:
a. 65 jet drive (1995) models. When the green lead is connected to positive and the
b. 80jet drive (1995-1997) remote control models. blue lead is grounded, the motor runs in the DOWN
c. 90 and 115 hp (1995-1996) models. direction.
d. 90 and 115 Special (1998) models. If the boat is wired using a standard OMC harness, the
This system is referred to as the FasTrak System in this trim and tilt system switching circuits are wired inde-
manual. See Figure 6. pendently of the ignition switch. The unit will trim and tilt,
A trim gauge sending unit is standard equipment. The regardless of ignition switch position. However, the igni-
sending unit is mounted on the inner surface of the port tion switch must be in the ON or RUN position for the trim
stern bracket. The sending unit can only be accessed when indicator gauge to operate. The trim systemreceives power
the outboard is tilted fully UP. to operate the switching circuits through the main 20-amp
An adjustable tilt limit switch, mounted on the tilt tube, fuse or circuit breaker (V8 models) mounted on the power
will shut off the trim and tilt systemto prevent the outboard
motor from tilting too far G o the splash well.
A trailer lock is provided to relieve the pressure on the
hydraulic system when trailering the boat and motor. The
trailer lock is attached to the lower portion of the swivel
bracket. To engage the trailer lock, tilt the unit to the fully
UP position, then rotate the lock forward and down into
the stern brackets. Trim the outboard down until the motor
is pulled firmly against the lock. The trim rams will remain
extended. Figure 7 shows the trailer lock engaged.
A tilt lock (Figure 8) is provided to support the unit and
relieve the hydraulic pressure when servicing or storing
the boat and motor. It is not intended to be used for
trailering. The tilt lock lever is attached to the top of the
swivel bracket, near the tilt tube bore. The tilt lock can be
engaged at a tilt angle of 50" or 73". To engage the tilt lock,
tilt the unit past the 50" or 73" tilt angle (as desired), then
rotate the tilt lock lever to position the support cam on the
starboard side of the motor over the stem bracket. Then
bump the trim switch until the motor is resting on the tilt
lock lever. Do not pull the motor down tightly against the
lock with the trim motor. Figure 9 shows the tilt lock
engaged at the 50" tilt angle and Figure 10 shows the tilt
lock engaged at the 73" tilt angle.
Electric Motor Operation
All trim and tilt systems use permanent magnet, two-

wire electric motors. Strong permanent magnets glued to
the main housing take the place of the field windings and
electricity only flows through the rotating armature. Per-
manent magnet motors must never be struck with a ham-
mer as this will crack the magnets and destroy the motor.
The two motor leads are blue and green. There is no
dedicated ground lead. 73.~0relays (one for each motor
head. The fuse or circuit breaker receives power directly for fluid returning from the low-volume side (17) of the
from the starter solenoid's positive battery cable terminal. cylinder and trim rams. The pump's pressure opens the
trim check valve (1I), allowing pressurized fluid to flow
to the high-volume side (16) of the trim rams, forcing them
Hydraulic Operation (Conventional System) upward. The pump also directs fluid under pressure to the
tilt check valve (6), opening it and allowing pressurized
Refer to Figure 11for the following explanations. fluid to flow to the high-volume side (16) of the tilt
1. UP mode-When the motor is activated in the UP cylinder, forcing it upward. The tilt cylinder and trim rams
direction, the motor rotates the pump in a counterclock- work together to lift the outboard motor for the first 15' of
wise direction. The pump directs fluid under pressure (19, upward movement.
Figure 11) to the pump control piston, pushing it over and As the piston (and trim rams) moves upward, the return
opening the reverse lock check valve (10) to provide a path fluid from the low-volume chamber is directed back to the
pump through the reverse lock check valve (10, Figure
11). Additional fluid, required to make up the difference
between the low-volume return and the high-volume re-
quirements, is drawn directly into the pump from the
reservoir.
When the trim rams reach the top of the bores, all fluid
and pressure is directed against the high-volume side of
the tilt cylinder. The tilt cylinder alone continues to lift the
outboard motor until its piston contacts the cylinder's end
cap. At this point there is no place for the fluid to go, and
pressure will increase until the trim UP relief valve (5,
Figure 11) opens, venting all pressurized fluid to the
reservoir. The trim UP relief valve opens at approximately
1500 psi (10343 Ha).
2. DOWN mode-When the motor is activated in the
DOWN direction, the motor rotates the pump in a clock-
wise direction. The pump directs fluid under pressure (18,
Figure 11) to the pump control piston, pushing it over and
opening the trim check valve (11) to provide a path for
fluid returning from the high-volume side (16) of the
cylinder and rams. The pump's pressure opens the reverse
lock check valve (lo), allowing pressurized fluid to flow
to the low-volume side (17) of the tilt cylinder and trim
rams, forcing them downward. As the piston and rams
move downward, the return fluid is directed back to the
pump through the trim check valve (11). Since more fluid
is returning (because the high-volume side is being emp-
I tied and the low-volume side is being filled), the excess
fluid is vented to the reservoir through the DOWN relief
valve (7). The DOWN relief valve opens at approximately
800 psi (5516Ha). When the piston and rams all reach the
bottom of their bores, all pressurized fluid is vented to the
reservoir through the DOWN relief valve.
3. Static mode-When the electric motor is not running,
the UP and DOWN check valves are closed (by internal
springs) and all fluid flow is blocked.
If the outboard is in the tilt range, it may only be operated
at idle speed. If higher power settings are attempted, the
increased propeller thrust will cause the pressure in the tilt
cylinder to rise to the point where the trim UP relief valve
472 CHAPTER TEN
CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM
1. Reservoir 11. Rim check valve

2. Pump 12. Rim rams
3. Manifold 13. Manual release valve
4. Filter valve assembly 14. Tilt cylinder
5. Rim UP relief valve assembly 15. impact relief valves
6. Tilt check valve 16. High-volume chamber
7. DOWN relief valve 17. Low-volume chamber
8. Thermal expansion valve 18. Pump UP discharge
9. Pump control piston 19. Pump DOWN discharge
10. Reverse lock check 20. Trlmltilt separation valve
valve assembly
(5,Figure 11) will open at approximately 1500psi (10343 1. UP mode-When the motor is activated in the UP
kPa), allowing the outboard to trim IN until it contacts the direction, the motor rotates the pump in a counterclock-
trim rams. When this happens, the tilt cylinder's low-vol- wise direction. The pump directs fluid under pressure (17,
ume chamber is filled with fluid drawn from the reservoir Figure 12) past the check ball in the UP pump control
through the filter valve (4). piston (7) and over to the DOWN pump control piston (9).
4. Manual release mode-When the manual release valve The DOWN pump control piston pushes down, opening
(13, Figure 11) is opened, the reservoir and both sides of the DOWN check valve (10) to provide a path for fluid
the tilt cylinder (high and low-volume)are opened to each returning from the low-volume (16) side of the cylinder
other. This allows unrestricted fluid flow in either direction and trim rams. The pump's pressure opens the UP check
within the tilt cylinder. However, only the low-volume side valve (8), allowing pressurized fluid to flow to the high-
of the trim rams is opened, allowing them to extend (but volume side (15) of the tilt cylinder and trim rams, forcing
not retract) as the high-volume side of the trim rams is not themupward.The tilt cylinder and trim rams work together
opened (because of the trimltilt separationvalve [20]).The to lift the outboard motor for the first 21' of upward
result is that the motor cannot be lowered below the movement.
maximum trim OUT position. Electric motor operation is As the tilt cylinder's piston moves upward, the return
required to lower the system to the maximum trim IN fluid from the tilt cylinder's low-volume chamber is di-
position. rected back to the pump through the DOWN check valve
Once the manual release valve is open, the motor can be (10, Figure 12). Additional fluid, required to make up the
raised to any position desired, but if the trim rams are not difference between the low-volume return and the high-
extended, the motor will settle back down until the rams volume requirements, is drawn directly into the pump from
have filled with fluid. If this happens, the valve must be the reservoir. As the trim rams move upward, the return
reopened and the motor repositioned again. fluid from each ram's low-volume chamber is pumped
5. T h e m l expansion-If the trim and tilt unit is left in directly to the reservoir through a cast or drilled passage
the fully tilted UP position and the system is exposed to an (19). This passage is always open.
increase in temperature, the fluid in the high-volume side When the trim rams reach the top of the bores, all fluid
of the cylinder and trim rams will expand, causing a drastic and pressure is directed against the high-volume side of
pressure increase. When the pressure at the thermal expan- the &t cylinder. The tilt cylinder alone continues to lift the
sion valve (8, Figure 11) reaches its predetermined value, outboard motor until its piston contacts the cylinder's end
it will open and vent the excessivepressure (and fluid) into cap. At this point there is no place for the fluid to go, and
the reservoir, preventing hydraulic lock-up and system pressure will increase until the UP relief valve (4, Figure
damage. 12) opens, venting all pressurized fluid to the reservoir.
6. Impact mode-Impact mode activates whenever the The UP relief valve opens at approximately 1400-1600psi
motor is running in FORWARD gear and strikes an under- (9653-11032 P a ) .
water object. The internal pressures instantaneously 2. DOWN mode-When the motor is activated in the
change from pressure in the high-volume side (16, Figure DOWN direction, the motor rotates the pump in a clock-
11) of the tilt cylinder (and trim rams) to pressure in the wise direction. The pump directs fluid under pressure (18,
low-volume side (17) of the tilt cylinder. The trimrams are Figure 12)past the check ball in the DOWN pump control
not affected and will remain in position because the piston (9) and over to the UP pump control piston (7).The
W t i l t separation valve (20) closes, locking the rams in UP pump control piston pushes down, opening the UP
position and isolating them from the cylinder. check valve (8) to provide a path for fluid returning from
The five impact valves are located in the cylinder's the high-volume side (15) of the cylinder and rams.
piston and are calibrated to open at a specific pressure, The pump pressure opens the DOWN check valve (10,
allowing fluid to vent across the piston, dissipating the Figure 12), allowing pressurized fluid to flow to the low-
energy of the impact over as long a time period as possible. volume side (16) of the tilt cylinder, forcing it downward.
After the impact, the engine will remain at or near the trim As the piston moves downward, the return fluid from the
angle of the impact, since the impact valves close as soon cylinder (and trim rams) is directed back to the pump
as the pressure dissipates, preventing the piston from mov- through the UP check valve (8). Since more fluid is return-
ing down to its original position. ing, the excess fluid is vented to the reservoir through the
DOWN relief metered orifice (5). This orifice is open at
Hydraulic Operation (Fas'Ikak Systems) all times.
The trim rams are not retracted by hydraulic pressure.
Refer to Figure 12 for the following explanations. When the tilt cylinder has lowered the motor far enough
474 CHAPTER TEN
FASTRAK SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM
1. Resewoir
2. Pump gears
3. Manifold
4. UP relief valve
5. DOWN relief
metered orifice
6. Filter valve assembly
7. UP pump
control piston
8. UP check valve
assembly
9. DOWN pump
control piston
10. DOWN check
valve assembly
11. Manual release valve
12. Trim rams
13. Tilt cylinder
14. Impact relief valves
15. High-volumechamber
16. Low-volume chamber
17. Pump UP discharge
18. Pump DOWN
discharge
19. Cast (or drilled)
passage
to contact the trim rams, the rams are retracted by the in the cylinder's piston (14) and are calibrated to open at
downward force of the tilt cylinder. The trim ram's low- a specificpressure, allowing fluid to vent across the piston,
volume chambers are filled with fluid pulled directly from dissipating the energy of the impact over as long a time
the reservoir through a cast passage (19, Figure 12). period as possible. After the impact, the engine will remain
3. Static mode-When the electric motor is not running, at or near the trim angle of the impact, since the impact
the UP and DOWN check valves are closed by internal valves closed as soon as the pressure dissipated,preventing
springs and all fluid flow is blocked. the piston from moving down to its original position.
~
If the outboard is in the tilt range, it may only be operated
at idle speed. I f higher power settings are attempted, the Maintenance
increased propeller thrust will cause the pressure in the tilt
cylinder to rise to the point where the tilt UP relief valve Periodically check the wiring system for corrosion and
(located in the tip of the manual release valve [I 1, Figure loose or damaged connections. Tighten any loose connec-
121) will open at a predetermined value, allowing the tions, replace damaged components and clean corroded
outboard to trim IN until it contacts the trim rams. When terminals as necessary. Coat the terminals and connections
this happens, the tilt cylinder's low-volume chamber is with anti-corrosion grease or OMC Black Neoprene Dip.
filled with fluid drawn from the reservoir through the filter Check the reservoir fluid level as outlined in this chapter.
valve (6). Inspect the anode(s) for loose mounting hardware, loose
4. Manual release mode-When the manual release valve or damaged ground straps (if equipped) and excessive
(11, Figure 12) is opened, the reservoir and both the high deterioration. Replace the anode if it has been reduced to
and low-volume sides of the tilt cylinder and high-volume two-thirds its original size. Make sure the anode has not
side of the trim rams are opened to each other. The low- been painted or coated with any substance. I f paint or any
volume side of the trim rams is always open to the reser- other coating covers the anode, the anode must be removed
voir. With all the chambers open, unrestricted fluid flow is and the coating stripped or the anode replaced.
allowed in either direction within the tilt cylinder and trim
rams.
Reservoir fluid check
Once the valve is open, the motor can be raised to any
position desired, but if the trim rams are not extended, the The fill plug is located on the reservoir- See Figure 5
motor will settle back down after the valve is closed until (conventional system) or Figure 6 (FasTrak system).
the rams fill with fluid and fully extend. If this happens,
the valve must be reopened and the motor repositioned. I f clean the area around the fill plug.
the motor is already tilted, the motor can be lowered to any 2. Cover the fill plug with a shop towel and carefully and
position desired. slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any internal pressure
(and possibly fluid)to vent before fully removing the plug.
NOTE 3. The fluid level must be even with the bottom of the fill
The tilt UP relief valve alsofunctions as the
plug hole. If necessary, add OMC Power Trim/Tilt and
t h e m 1 expansion valve. The valve is lo-
cated in the tip of the manual release valve Power Steering Fluid or Dexron I1 automatic transmission
(11, Figure 12). fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the level
hole.
5. Thermal expansion-If the trim and tilt unit is left in
CAUTION
the fully tilted UP position and the system is exposed to an Do not ovefill the unit. The oil level rises as
increase in temperature, the fluid in the high-volume side the unit is trimmed down and there must be
of the cylinder and trim rams will expand, causing a drastic room for the thermal expansion of the fluid
pressure increase. When the pressure at the tilt UP relief in the resewoil:
valve reaches its predeterminedvalue, it will open and vent
the excessivepressure and fluid into the reservoir,prevent- 4. Install the fill plug and tighten it securely. Then cycle
ing hydraulic lock-up and system damage. the outboard fully down and up several times to bleed any
6. Impact mode-Impact mode activates whenever the air that might be in the system.
motor is running in FORWARD gear and strikes an under- 5. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 1 and 2.
water object. The internal pressure instantaneously Make sure the fill plug is tightened as follows:
changes from pressure in the high-volumeside (15, Figure a. Conventioml system-Tighten the fill plug to 45-50
12) of the tilt cylinder, to pressure in the low-volume side in.-lb. (5.1-5.7 N-m).
(16) of the tilt cylinder. The four impact valves are located b. FasTrak system-Tighten the fill plug securely.
CHAPTER TEN
Bleeding airfrom hydraulic system 3. Retighten the manual release valve to 45-55in.-lb.
(5.1-6.2 N-m).
These trim and tilt systems are considered self-bleeding.
Simply cycle the unit fully up and down a total of 3-5 times
to bleed all the air from the system. Make sure the fluid Maximum Wm-In Limit Adjustment
level in the reservoir is maintained as described previously
in this section. If the fluid appears foamy, allow the unit to To limit the total amount of negative (down) trim an
sit for a minimum of 30 minutes to allow the air to separate engine can achieve, an adjustable trim limit rod is used on
from the fluid. all V4 and V6 models. V8 models are not equipped with
an adjustable trim limit rod. Two fixed thrust rods support
the engine's thrust at the maximum trim-in position.
Manual Release Valve Operation
On conventional systems, the trim limit rod can be
The manual release valve allows the motor to be raised positioned in any one of the five pairs of holes in the stern
or lowered if the electric motor has failed for any reason. brackets. The unit comes from the factory with the rod in
Conventional system-Access the valve through a hole the innermost set of holes, which provides the maximum
in the starboard stern bracket as shown in Figure 13.Once amount of negative trim angle. Moving the bolt to any of
the valve is open, the motor can be raised to any position
if
desired, but the trim rams are not extended, the motor
will settle back down (after the valve is closed) until the
rams have filled with fluid and fully extended. If this
happens, the valve must be reopened and the motor repo-
sitioned again.
If the motor is already tilted, the motor can only be
lowered to the maximum Trim Out position (trim rams
fully extended). Electric motor operation is required to
lower the system to the maximum Trim In position (trim
rams retracted).
FasTrak system-The valve is accessed through a hole
in the port stem bracket as shown in Figure 14. Once the
valve is opened, the motor can be raised to any position
desired, but if the trim rams are not extended, the motor
will settle back down (after the valve is closed) until the
rams have filled with fluid and fully extended. If this
happens, the valve must be reopened and the motor repo-
sitioned again. If the motor is already tilted, the motor can
be lowered to any position desired.
!%RIVING
Do not operate the engine with the manual
release valve in the open position. Reverse
lock protection will be disabled. There would
be nothing to prevent the enginefrom tilting
out of the water when backing up in reverse
gear and when decelerating inforward geax
This will cause a loss of directional control.
Retighten the manual release valve securely
once the motor is positioned as desired.
1. To raise or lower the motor manually, open the manual
release valve approximately 3-112 turns, or until it just
contacts its retaining ring. Do not open the valve further.
2. Position the engine as described previously in this
section.
the other sets of holes limits the negative trim angle ac- T k h Gauge Sending Unit Adjustment
cordingly.
Adjust the trim gauge sending unit so that the gauge
On FasTrak systems,the trim limit rod can be positioned needle is aligned with the DOWN mark when the outboard
in any one of the six pairs of numbered holes in the stern is fully trimmed IN. The trim limit rod must be installed
brackets. The holes are staggered in two rows (three holes in its correct position before the sending unit can be
each) and are numbered according to their trim limiting adjusted. The trim gauge sending unit is attached to the
potential. Installing the rod in the No. 1 set of holes port stem bracket as shown in Figure 16.
provides the maximum amount of negative trim angle, 1. Trim the outboard motor to the fulldown position. Turn
while installing the rod in the No. 6 set of holes provides the ignition (key) switch to the ON or RUN position and
the least amount of negative trim angle. The unit comes note the position of the gauge.
from the factory with the rod in the No. 1 set of holes. See 2. If adjustment is needed, tilt the outboard motor to the
Figure 15. fully UP position and engage the tilt lock, support the
On some boats, excessive negative trim can cause insta- gearcase with a hoist or block the gearcase to eliminate
bility at high speeds. The simplest solution is not to trim any possibility of it falling during this procedure.
the unit down too far at high speeds. 3. Loosen the two screws securing the trim sending unit
(Figure 16) just enough to allow the sending unit to be
The moving of the trim limit rod outward will cause the rotated with moderate effort.
boat to take longer to achieve planing speed, because there
will be less availablenegative trim.Therefore, do not move NOTE
the trim limit rod further outward than necessary to elimi- If the sending unit cannot be accessed be-
nate any high speed instability. tween the swivel bracket and port stem
bracket in the next step, the outboard motor
must be tilted, the sending unit rotated
slightly, the motor tilted down, and the ad-
justment checked. Repeat this sequence until
the gauge is correctly aligned.
4. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or blocks and trim
the outboard motor to the full DOWN position. Turn the
ignition (key) switch to the ON or RUN position and note
the position of the gauge.
a. Reach into the gap between the stem bracket and
port stem bracket with a suitable screwdriver.Rotate
the sending unit as necessary to align the gauge
needle with the DOWN mark.
b. When the sending unit is correctly adjusted, tilt the
outboard motor to the fully UP position and engage
the tilt lock, support the gearcase with a hoist or
block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it
falling.
c. Tighten the two sending unit screws securely. Then
release the tilt lock or remove the hoist (or blocks)
and trim the motor to the full DOWN position.
d. Note the position of the gauge. The gauge needle
must be aligned with the DOWN mark on the face
of the gauge. If not, readjust as necessary, until
correct alignment is obtained.
5. Turn off the ignition switch when finished.
Tilt Limit Switch Adjustment (Faslkak System)
If the lower cowl, upper cowl or steering arm of the

outboard motor contacts the splash well or any other part
CHAPTER TEN
of the boat's hull when fully tilted, the tilt limit switchmust fying glass. Replace the valve body/manifold
be adjusted to limit the upward tilt range and prevent i f defects are noted and the operationalprob-
motor-to-hullcontact. The switch (A, Figure 17) is located lem cannot be eliminated.
behind the tilt tube, directly between the stern brackets. A
If the unit will not trim out (up) under load, but otherwise
cam mechanism (B, Figure 17) is rotated around the tilt
functions normally, the problem is most likely in the pump
tube to adjust the switch setting. Refer to Figure 18for this
assembly. On some units, the pump can be replaced with-
procedure.
out having to replace the valve body or manifold assembly.
CAUTION Consult a parts catalog or the appropriate illustrations in
If the tilt limit switch is used to prevent this chapter to determine your best course of action.
contact between the motor and hull, remem- The recommended fluid for all systems is OMC Power
ber that the motor can tilt past the tilt limit TrimRilt and Power Steering Fluid or Dexron 11automatic
switch setting during a severe impact or transmission fluid. Lubricate all seals and O-rings with the
when the motor is being tilted manually. recommended fluid during assembly.
1. Trim the outboard motor to the full down position.
NOTE
2A. To increase the tilt limit--Push the cam's lower tab
Always replace all O-rings, seals and gas-
upward to rotate the cam slightly. kets that are removed. O-ring and seal kits
2B. To decrease the tilt limit--Push the cam's upper tab are available for all models. Clean the out-
downward to rotate the cam slightly. side of the component before disassembly.
3. Tilt the outboard to the fully UP position, while observ- Always use a lint-free cloth when handling
ing the clearance between the motor and the hull. Be trim and tilt components. Dirt or lint can
prepared to stop tilting the motor if necessary. If the motor cause blocked passages, sticking valves and
stops at the tilt angle desired, adjustment is complete. If prevent O-ringsfrom sealing.
not, repeat Steps 1-3.
POWER TRIM AND

TILT HYDRAULIC TROUBLESHOOTING
If a problem develops in the trim and tilt system, the
initial step is to determine whether the problem is located
in the electrical system or in the hydraulic system. If the
electric motor runs normally, the problein is hydraulic in
nature. If the electric motor does not run or runs slowly, go
to Electric system testing in this chapter. It is possible for
an internal hydraulic component problem to cause the
pump to turn slowly or bind, but not likely.
If the electric motor seems to run abnormally fast in both
directions, remove the electric motor and check for a
sheared pump drive shaft or coupler.
If the unit will only tilt or trim partially, or the system's
movement isjerky or erratic, check the reservoir fluid level
@
as described previously in this chapter. Cam
External leakage, no matter how small, cannot be toler-
ated. Any external leakage must be immediatelycorrected.
The troubleshooting procedure in this section does not list
any external seals and/or O-rings as a probable cause of a
system m c t i o n .
NOTE
The seating area of the manual release valve
must be in perfect conditionor leak-down or
other operational problems may occur
Check the valve seat using a suitable magni-
I
I
CAUTION block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling

Use caution when only partially disassem- during this procedure.
bling the unit to replace a spec$c compo- 2. Remove the locking clip (Figure 19)securing the upper
nent. If the fluid is contaminated with metal pivot pin to the swivel bracket, then remove the uppe~ pivot
shavings, water or other debris, the system pin to free the tilt cylinder from the swivel bracket.
must be completely disassembled, cleaned, 3. Operate the trim and tilt system in the DOWN direction
inspected and all O-rings, seals and gaskets
until the tilt cylinder and both trim rams are fully retracted.
replaced. If not, the contamination will soon
cause the newly installed component tofail. 4. Briefly bump the trim switch up, then down, then up
again. The motor must run briefly in each direction. This
will help relieve internal pressure.
I Relieving System Pressure 5. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts its
retaining ring.
WARNING 6. If the unit is to be disassembled, cover the reservoir fill
Eye protection must be worn during this plug with a shop towel and carefully and slowly remove
procedure and any procedure involving dis- the fill plug, allowing any internal pressure and fluid to
assembly of the power trim and tilt system. vent before fully removing the plug.
7. Reinstall the fill plug and close the manual release valve
The trim and tilt system's internal hydraulic pressure
to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
must be relieved before any form of system disassembly
8. Use caution during system disassembly, as there still
can take place. On FasTrak systems, the tilt cylinder and
may be residual pressure in the system. During disassem-
trim rams must be extended, while on Conventional sys-
bly, cover each component with a shop towel and slowly
1 tems, the tilt cylinder and trim rams must be fully retracted.
loosen the component andlor its fasteners, allowing any
NOTE internal pressure and fluid to vent before fully removing
Whenopening the reservoirfillplug to check the component.
or addfluid, all units must be in thefully UP
position (all rams extended). On Conven-
tional systems, unique hydraulic circuitry
Fm Trak system I
requires the unit to be in the fully DOWN To relieve the internal pressure on the FasTrak system,
position (all rams retracted)when disassem-
proceed as follows:
bling the system.
1. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and
engage the tilt lock. Support the gearcase with a hoist or
i conventional system block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling
during this procedure.
To relieve the internal pressure on the conventional 2. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts its
system, proceed as follows: retaining ring. Allow the outboard motor to settle onto the
1. Tilt the outboard motor to the M y UP position and tilt lock, hoist or blocks.
engage the tilt lock. Support the gearcase with a hoist or 3. Cover the reservoir fill plug with a shop towel and
carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any
internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug.
4. Reinstall the fill plug and close the manual release valve
to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
5. Use caution during system disassembly, as there may
be residual pressure in the system. During disassembly,
cover each component with a shop towel and slowlyloosen
the component andlor its fasteners, allowing any internal
pressure to vent before fully removing the component.
Conventional System Troubleshooting

This is a complex trim and tilt system. Make sure the
anticipated repairs are within your capabilities before be-
ginning any disassembly. If you are unsure of yourself, it
480 CHAPTER TEN
may be better to remove the unit and take it to an

Evi~lrudeIJohnsondealership that employs a competent
technician.
Remove and install these units are removed and installed
as an assembly. There is no specific troubleshooting pro-
cedure to isolate the tilt cylinder from the trim rams and
the manifold assembly. Parts are available to service most
CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM
of the tilt cylinder,trim rams and manifold assembly.A test
gauge set is available to assist in the troubleshooting
1. Electric motor 31. O-ring
procedure and to venfy that the system is functioning
and lead assembly 32. Manual release valve correctly after assembly. Refer to Pressure Testing.
2. Screw and lockwasher 33. Rim UP relief
3. O-ring valve assembly
Refer to Figure 20 for an exploded view of this system
4. Filter 34. Check ball and Figure 21 for a hydraulic flow diagram.
5. Pump drive coupler 35. Filter
6. Socket screw 36. Filter valve assembly
If the unit leaks down in the tilt range and has no
and lockwasher 37. Plate reverse lock, clean and inspect the manual release valve.
7. Hex screw, lockwasher 38. Screw, lockwasher Replace the valve if its tip shows any damage. If the unit
and flat washer and flat washer still leaks in both directions, the cause is most likely a
8. Pump assembly 39. Reservoir
9. O-ring 40. Screw and lockwasher
failed tilt cylinder piston O-ring, scored cylinder walls
10. Spring 41. Level plug and O-ring or failed piston impact relief valves. Disassemble the
11. O-ring 42. Sleeve O-ring cylinder and inspect these components. If no visible
12. Valve core 43. Sleeve backup ring damage or defects are noted, replace the piston assem-
13. Valve core O-rings 44. Trim ram sleeve
14. Valve seat 45. Rim ram seal
bly.
15. Valve seat O-ring 46. Rim ram Refer to Power Trim and Elt System Service in this
16. Valve core tip seal 47. Rim ram end cap
17. Down relief
chapter for removal, installation, disassembly and assem-
48. Quad ring
valve assembly 49. Wiper bly procedures as necessary. Refill and bleed the system
18. Thermal expansion 50. End cap outer O-ring after assembly.
valve assembly 51. End cap backup ring
19. Check valve 52. Lower pivot
small O-rings pin bushing
CAUTION
20. Check valve 53. Lower (high-volume Relieve system pressure as described in
large O-rings chamber) line this chapter before beginning any disas-
21. Reverse lock check 54. Line fitting O-rings sembly.
valve cartridge 55. Upper (low-volume
22. Pump control piston chamber) line
23. Pump control 56. Tilt cylinder
piston O-ring 57. Nut Check valve
24. Rim check 58. Washer pressure testing
valve cartridge 59. Rod-to-pistonO-ring
25. Tilt check 60. O-ring
valve cartridge 61. Plston assembly All of the cartridge style check valves (21, 24,25 and
26. Trimhilt separation 62. End cap O-ring
valve cartridge
26, Figure 20) can be quickly tested using the check valve
63. Tilt cylinder end cap
27. Manifold assembly 64. O-ring tester kit (part No. 390063).
28. Pipe plug 65. Wiper
1. Screw the check valve into the tester body and tighten
29. Tilt cylinder 66. Rod and eye
lower pivot pin 67. Upper pivot it to 50-60 in.-lb. (5.7-6.8 N.m).
30. Retaining ring pin bushing 2. Attach a suitable gearcase pressure tester (such as
Stevens S-34) to the tester body.
3. Apply 30 psi (207 kPa) of pressure and check for
leakage.
4. If the valve exhibits leakage from the external O-rings,
replace the O-rings. If the valve exhibits leakage from the
hole at the center of its tip, the valve is defective and must
be replaced.
CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM
1. Reservoir 11. Rim check valve

12. Rim rams
3. Manlfold 13. Manual release valve
4. Filter valve assembly 14. Tilt cylinder
5. Rlm UP relief valve assembly 15. Impact relief valves
6. Tilt check valve 16. High-volume chamber
7. DOWN relief valve 17. Low-volume chamber
8. Thermal expansion valve 18. Pump UP discharge
9. Pump control piston 19. Pump DOWN discharge
10. Reverse lock check 20. RimAiit separation valve
valve assembly
Complete system pressure testing pressure as the pump forces fluid through the relief valve.
The relief valve makes a distinct squawking when it opens,
Pressure tester kit (Part No. 391010) consists of a gauge, caused by the rapid fluctuations of the valve bouncing on
body and two adaptors (Figure 22). The adaptor stamped and off of its seat. This is also called measuring the stall
A @art No. 395618) must be used when testing the UP pressure. The gauge needle will vibrate during the stall test
circuit and the adaptor stamped B (part No. 395619) must and will be difficult to read. Simply note the average or
be used when testing the DOWN circuit. midpoint of the needle oscillations.
Once the stall pressure is noted, the electric motor is shut
CAUTION
The adaptors use an O-ring (part No. off and the leak-down test begins. Leak-down is measured
332930) glued to the very tip of the adapto~: from the fist point of needle stabilization as the electric
The O-ring will wear out during nonnal use. motor is shut off and the relief valve closes. The needle
Replace worn O-ringsimmediately. Glue the may jump up slightly or drop slightly as this occurs. It is
new 0-ring(s) to the adaptor(s)with a suit- only important to note where the needle stabilizes, imme-
able instant glue, such as Dupont Krazy diately after the trim motor is stopped.
Glue or Loctite Black Max adhesive. The acceptable leak-down rate for all tests is a maximum
Pressure testing requires that the complete trim and tilt pressure drop of 200 psi (1379 H a ) in a minimum time
unit be removed from the outboard motor and supported span of five minutes. For example, if the trim out stall
in a suitable stand, such as part No. 390008.Refer to Power pressure was 1450psi (9998 kPa) and the needle stabilizes
Trim and Zit System Service located later in this chapter at 1400 psi (9653 H a ) when the electric motor stops, the
for system removallinstallation procedures. gauge cannot indicate lower than 1200psi (8274 kPa) after
a minimum of five minutes. Refer to Table 3 for all
Each test involves running the pump and noting the
pressure specifications.
pressure required to extend or retract the rams, then run-
ning the pump until the relief valve opens, noting the 1. Remove the power trim and tilt unit as described later
in this chapter. Make sure the internal pressure is relieved
as described in Relieving System Pressure.
2. Mount the unit in a suitable work stand, such as part
No. 390008. The system must be positioned as it is during
normal operation (electric motor and reservoir pointing
upward). See Figure 23.
3. Make sure the tilt cylinder and trim rams are fully
retracted. If necessary, the motor can be connected to the
outboard motor's two-pin connector and operated nor-
mally by the boat-mounted switch. If this is not feasible,
connect the trim motor green lead to the battery's positive
terminal and the motor blue lead to the negative terminal
until the rams are fully retracted.
4. To help relieve internal pressure, briefly operate the
trim motor in the UP direction, then DOWN, then UP
again. If the motor is connected directly to the battery,
simply switch the polarity of the blue and green leads to
reverse the motor.
5. Remove the manual release valve retaining ring (30,
Figure 20) with a suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers.
6. Cover the manual release valve with a shop towel and
carefully remove it from the manifold. Work slowly and
allow any pressure to vent before completelyremoving the
valve.
7. To test the UP circuits, assemble the adaptor stamped
A (part No. 395618) to the pressure gauge and body. Make
sure all three adaptor O-rings (tip, middle and gauge end)
are in satisfactory condition. Replace any worn or dam-
aged O-rings.
CHAPTER TEN
8. Screw the gauge and adaptor assembly into the manual a. Note the running pressure required to retract the
release valve port in the manifold (Figure 23). Tighten the rams (as the rams are being retracted).
assembly to 5-10 in.-lb. (0.6-1.1 N.m). Do not overtighten b. Note the stall pressure (after the rams are fully
the assembly or the adapter O-ring will be damaged. retracted and the motor is still running).
9. Operate the unit fully UP and DOWN through several c. Turn off the electric motor and immediately note the
cycles. Check the fluid level each time the unit is in the pressure at which the needle stabilizes. Then note
fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom- the pressure drop after a minimum of five minutes.
mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level 18. A good system must indicate approximately 800 psi
is verified, operate the system in the DOWN direction until (5516 kPa) as the cylinder and rams are retracting, must
all of the rams are fully retracted. indicate approximately 900 psi (6206 @a) during the full
10. To finish testing the UP circuits, operate the system in DOWN stall and must not leak down more than 200 psi
the UP direction while observing the pressure gauge. (1379 kPa) after the electric motor is tumed off.
a. Note the running pressure required to extend the 19. If the UP or DOWN pressure tests are not as specified,
rams as the rams are being extended. refer to Table 6 for pressure test results. The table lists
b. Note the stall pressure (after the rams are fully failure modes, their probable causes and the corrective
extended and the motor is still running). action necessary.
c. Turn off the electric motor and immediately note the 20. Operate the unit in the DOWN direction until all rams
pressure at which the needle stabilizes. Then note are fully retracted. Then repeat Step 4 to help relieve
the pressure drop after a minimum of five minutes. internal pressure. Cover the pressure gauge with a shop
11. A good system must indicate approximately 200 psi towel and carefully remove it from the manifold. Work
(1379 P a ) as the cylinder and rams are extending, ap- slowly and allow any pressure to vent before completely
proximately 1500psi (10343kPa) during the fully UP stall removing the valve.
and must not leak down more than 200 psi (1379 kPa) after 21. If service is complete, install the manual release valve
the electric motor is turned off. using a new O-ring. Tighten the valve to 45-55 in.-lb.
12. Operate the unit in the DOWN direction until all rams (5.1-6.2 N.m). Then install the retaining ring using a
are fully retracted. Then repeat Step 4 to help relieve suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers. Make sure the
internal pressure. Cover the pressure gauge with a shop ring's sharp edge is facing out.
towel and carefully remove it from the manifold. Work
22. Operate the unit fully UP and DOWN through several
slowly and allow any pressure to vent before completely
cycles. Check the fluid level each time the unit is in the
removing the valve.
fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom-
13. Remove the adaptor stamped A (part No. 395618) mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with
from the gauge and body. the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level
14. To test the DOWN circuits, assemble the adaptor is verified, leave the system in the full DOWN position (all
stamped B (part No. 395619) on the pressure gauge and rams fully retracted) to make the installation easier.
body. Make sure all three adaptor O-rings (tip, middle and
gauge end) are in satisfactory condition. Replace any worn
or damaged O-rings. FasBak System Tkoubleshooting
15. Screw the gauge and adaptor assembly into the man-
ual release valve port in the manifold (Figure 23). Tighten
While this is a complex trim and tilt system,it is serviced
the assembly to 5-10 in.-lb. (0.6-1.1 N-m). Do not over-
in a modular fashion. With the exception of the manual
tighten the assembly or the adapter O-ring will be dam-
release valve, the pump and valve body assembly is avail-
aged.
able only as an assembly. The trim rams and tilt cylinder
may be resealed or repaired, but if the tilt cylinder or either
fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom- trim ram bore is scored, the system is replaced as an
mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with assembly. With the exception of the electric motor O-ring
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level (4, Figure 24), the O-rings and seals are only available in
is verified, leave the system in the fully UP position (all a repair kit and are not shown in the exploded view shown
rams fully extended). in Figure 24.
17. To finish testing the DOWN circuits, operate the Remove and install these units as an assembly. There is
system in the DOWN direction while observing the pres- no specific troubleshooting procedure to isolate the tilt
sure gauge. cylinder from the trim rams and the manifold assembly.
FASTRAK SYSTEM
1. Electric motor and

lead assembly
2. Screw and washer
3. Cable clamp and screw
4. O-ring
5. Filter
6. Pump drive coupler
7. Long screw
8. Short screw
9. Pump and
manifold assembly
11. Retaining ring
12. Retaining ring
13. Plvot pin bushing
14. Upper pivot pin
15. Rod and eye
17. Piston assembly
18. Washer
19. Nut
20. Main housing
21. Lower pivot pin
23. Retaining ring
24. Pipe plug
25. Filter
26. Thrust pad
27. Trim ram end cap
28. Trim ram
29. Reservoir
30. Screw
31. Fill plug and O-ring
486 CHAPTER TEN
@ FASTRAK SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM
1. Resewoir
2. Pump gears
3. Manifold
4. UP relief valve
5. DOWN relief
metered orifice
6. Filter valve assembly
7. UP pump
control piston
8. UP check valve
assembly
9. DOWN pump
control piston
10. DOWN check
valve assembly
12. Trim rams
13. Tilt cylinder
14. Impact relief valves
15. High-volume chamber
16. Low-volumechamber
17. Pump UP discharge
18. Pump DOWN
discharge
19. Cast (or drilled)
passage
A test gauge set is availableto assist in the troubleshoot- Manual release valve and
ing procedure and to venfy that the system is functioning tilt cylinder piston identifiation
correctly after reassembly. Refer to Pressure Testing.
Different manual release valves incorporating the tilt
Refer Figure 24 for an view of this system relieuthermal expansion valve and tilt pistons are used to
and Figure 25 for a hydraulic flow diagram.
provide the correct operating pressures for the different
Refer to Power Trim and lilt System Service in this weight and thrust of the larger engines.
chapter for removal, installation, disassembly, and assem- The manual release valve for V4 models must have a
bly procedures as necessary. ~ e f r land
l bleed the system p~oovein its outer face as shown in Figure 26. If not,
after reassembly as described under Maintenance in this remove the valve and replace it with the correct valve.
chapter. The manual release valve for V6 models must not have
a groove in its outer face as shown in Figure 26. If it does,
CAUTION
remove the valve and replace with the correct valve.
Relieve system pressure as described in this
chapter before beginning any disassembly. The tilt cylinder piston contains different relief valve
springs and the relief valve holes are of different sizes,
- depending on model. Iden@ the pistons as follows:
1. 90" V4 and 60"V6 models-The relief valve holes in
the piston must all measure 0.081 in. (2.06 mm). The
impact relief valve springs must be identical, with the
FASTRAK MANUAL exception that one spring must be slightly shorter than the
RELEASE VALVE IDENTIFICATION other three. If not, replace the piston with the correct one.
2. 60" V4 models-The relief valve holes in the piston
must all measure 0.093 in. (2.36 mm). The impact relief
valve springs must be identical, with the exception that one
spring must be slightly shorter than the other three. If not,
replace the piston (as an assembly) with the correct one.
3. 90" V6 models-The piston must contain two large and
two small relief valve holes. The impact relief valve
springs must have five coils for the two large valves and
nine coils for the two small valves. If not, replace the piston
with the correct one.
Complete system pressure testing
The pressure tester kit (Part No. 434524) consists of two

.'.,. . adaptors. The adaptor stamped A (part No. 336658) must
be used when testing the UP circuit, and the adaptor
I . \ . stamped B (part No. 336659) must be used when testing
the DOWN circuit.
A pressure gauge and body, either from the part No.
390010 pressure tester kit, or available alone under part
No. 983975 is also required. Figure 22 shows the pressure
gauge and a typical set of adaptors.
Pressure testing requires that the complete trim and tilt
unit be removed from the outboard motor, and that the unit
be supported in a suitable stand or in a soft-jawed vise.
Refer to Power Trim and Elt System Service in this chapter
for system removal and installation procedures.
Each test involves running the pump and noting the
pressure required to extend or retract the tilt cylinder, then
running the pump until the relief valve opens, noting the
pressure as the pump forces fluid through the relief valve.
CHAPTER TEN
The relief valve makes a distinct squawking when it opens, 7. Cover the manual release valve with a shop towel and
caused by the rapid fluctuations of the valve bouncing on carefully remove it from the manifold. Work slowly and
and off of its seat. This is also called measuring the stall allow any pressure to vent before completely removing the
pressure. The gauge needle will vibrate during the stall test valve.
and will be difficult to read. Simply note the average or 8. To test the UP circuits, assemble the adaptor stamped
mid-point of the needle oscillations. A @art No. 336658) to the pressure gauge and body. Make
Once the stall pressure is noted, the electric motor is shut sure all four adaptor O-rings (tip, two middle and gauge
off and the leak-down test begins. Leak-down is measured end) are in satisfactory condition. Replace any worn or
from the first point of needle stabilization as the electric damaged O-rings.
motor is shut off and the relief valve closes. The needle 9. Screw the gauge and adaptor assembly into the man-
may jump up slightly or drop slightly as this occurs. It is ual release valve port in the manifold (Figure 23).
only important to note where the needle stabilizes at, Tighten the assembly to 5-10 in.-lb. (0.6-1.1 N.m). Do
immediately after the trim motor is stopped. not overtighten the assembly or the adapter O-ring will
The acceptableleak-down rate for all tests is a maximum be damaged.
pressure drop of 200 psi (1379 kPa) in a minimum time
span of five minutes. For example, if the trim out stall NOTE
pressure was 850 psi (5861 kPa) and the needle stabilized Once the trim rams have extended, they will
at 825 psi (5688 kPa) when the electric motor stopped, the not retract when bench testing the unit. The
trim rams are retracted by the swivel bracket
gauge cannot indicate lower than 625 psi (4309 kPa) after pushing against them as the tilt cylinder
a minimum of five minutes. Refer to a b l e 4 for all lowers the motor
pressure specifications.
NOTE
The pressure tester takes the place the of the cycles. Check the fluid level each time the unit is in the
manual release valve. If the unit passes all fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom-
pressure tests, yet still exhibits a hydraulic mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with
failure, replace the manual release valve. the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level
is verified, operate the systemin the DOWN directionuntil
1. Remove the power trim and tilt unit as described later the tilt cylinder is fully retracted.
in this chapter. Make sure the internal pressure is relieved 11. To finish testing the UP circuits, operate the system in
as described in Relieving System Pressure in this chapter. the UP direction while observing the pressure gauge.
2. Mount the unit in a suitable work stand or in a soft- a. Note the running pressure required to extend the tilt
jawed vise. The system must be positioned as it is in cylinder.
normal operation (electric motor and reservoir pointing
b. Note the stall pressure (after the rams are fully
upward).
extended and the motor is still running).
3. Make sure the tilt cylinder and trim rams are extended.
If necessary, the motor can be connected to the outboard c. Turn off the electric motor and immediately note the
motor's two-pin connector and operated normally by the pressure at which the needle stabilizes. Then note
boat-mounted switch. If this is not feasible, connect the the pressure drop after a minimum of five minutes.
trim motor blue lead to the battery's positive terminal and 12. A good system must indicate between 0-200 psi (0-
the motor green lead to the negative terminal until the rams 1379 kPa) as the cylinder is extending, 1400-1600 psi
are fully extended. (9653-11032 Wa) during the fully UP stall and must not
4. To relieve internal pressure, briefly operate the motor leak down more than 200 psi (1379 Wa) after the electric
in the DOWN direction. If the motor is connected directly motor is turned off.
to the battery, simply switch the polarity of the blue and 13. To relieve internal pressure, briefly operate the motor
green leads to reverse the motor. in the DOWN direction. If the motor is connected directly
5. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts its to the battery, simply switch the polarity of the blue and
retaining ring. Then cover the fill plug with a shop towel green leads to reverse: the motor.
and carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any 14. Unscrew the pressure gauge approximately 3-112
internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug. It turns. Then cover the fill plug with a shop towel and
is normal for some fluid to be expelled at this time. carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any
6. Remove the manual release valve's retaining ring (11, internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug. It
Figure 24) with a suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers. is normal for some fluid to be expelled at this time.
15. Cover the pressure gauge with a shop towel and care- 26. If service is complete, install the manual release valve
fully remove it from the manifold. Work slowly and allow using a new O-ring. The two nylon seal rings are not
any pressure to vent before completelyremoving the valve. replaceable and if damaged, the valve must be replaced as
16. Remove the adaptor stamped A @art No. 336658) an assembly. Tighten the valve to 45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2
from the gauge and body. Nom). Then install the retaining ring using a suitable pair
17. To test the DOWN circuits, assemble the adaptor of internal snapring pliers. Make sure the ring's sharp edge
stamped B (part No. 336659) to the pressure gauge and is facing out.
body. Make sure all three adaptor O-rings (tip, middle and 27. Operate the unit fully UP and DOWN through several
gauge end) are in satisfactory c~ndition.Replace any worn cycles. Check the fluid level each time the unit is in the
or damaged O-rings. fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom-
18. Screw the gauge and adaptor assembly into the man- mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with
ual release valve port in the manifold (Figure 23). Tighten the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level
the assembly to 5-10 in.-lb. (0.6-1.1 N.m). Do not over- is verified, leave the system in the full DOWN position (tilt
tighten the assembly or the adapter O-ring will be dam- cylinder fully retracted) to make installation easier.
aged.
POWER TRIM AND TILT SYSTEM
ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING
fully UP position (all rams extended). Add the recom-
mended fluid as necessary to keep the fluid level flush with
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Once the correct fluid level Troubleshooting procedures will vary slightly between
is verified, leave the system in the fully UP position (all 1995 models equipped with the traditional wiring hamess
rams fully extended). and Amphenol connectors and the 1996-1998 models
equipped with the Modular Wiring System ( M W S ) and
20. To finish testing the DOWN circuits, operate the sys-
tem in the DOWN direction while observing the pressure Deutsch connectors. Refer to Wiring Harnesses in Chapter
gauge. Three for harness information. Regardless of the connec-
tors used, the wire color codes and their function remain
I
a. Note the running pressure required to retract the tilt I
constant.
- ---- -. I
cylinder's ram (as the ram is being retracted).
b. Note the stall pressure (after the tilt cylinder is fully Green colored leads are primarily used for the up cir-
retracted and the motor is still running). cuits. Blue colored leads are primarily used for the down
circuits. The switching circuits for the trim and tilt system
c. Turn off the electric motor and immediately note the I
are protected by the main 20-amp fuse on the motor.
pressure at which the needle stabilizes. Then note
Tiller handle models have only one trim and tilt switch
the pressure drop after a minimum of five minutes.
21. A good system must indicate 0-200 psi (1379 kPa) as mounted to the starboard side of the lower motor cowl.
I
~
the tilt cylinder ram is retracting, approximately 800 psi Remote control models have the lower cowl mounted
(5516 kPa) during the full DOWN stall and must not leak switch and one or more boat or remote control mounted
down more than 200 psi (1379 kPa) after the electricmotor switches.
is turned off. Electrical testing is performed most accurately with a
22. If the UP or DOWN pressure is not as specified, refer multimeter. However, a 12-volt test lamp and a self-pow-
to Table 8 for pressure test results. The table lists failure ered continuity meter may be used if a multimeter is
modes, their probable causes and the corrective action unavailable. Before beginning any troubleshooting with a
necessary. test lamp, connect the test lamp directly to the battery and
23. To relieve internal pressure, briefly operate the motor observe the brightness of the bulb. You must reference the
in the DOWN direction. rest of your readings against this test. Whenever the bulb
24. Unscrew the pressure gauge approximately 3-112 does not glow as brightly as when it was connected directly
turns. Then cover the fill plug with a shop towel and to the battery, a problem is indicated.
carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any If a multimeter is to be used, take a battery voltage
internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug. It reading to reference all of your readings against. When the
is normal for some fluid to be expelled at this time. voltmeter reads one or more volts less than battery voltage,
25. Cover the pressure gauge with a shop towel and care- a definite problem is indicated. When checking continuity
fully remove it from the manifold (by turning it counter- with an ohmmeter, a zero reading is good. The higher the
clockwise). Work slowly and allow any pressure to vent ohmmeter reads above zero, the worse the condition of that
before completely removing the valve. circuit.
1 490 CHAPTER TEN
Preliminary Checks
It is important to understand the function of each relay Before attempting to troubleshoot any electrical circuit:
terminal before attempting to troubleshoot the system.
1. Make sure that dl connectors are properly engaged and
AU relays (Figure 27) used in these systems use stand- that all terminals and leads are free of corrosion. Clean and
ard electrical connector positioning. Each relay has five tighten dl connections as required. This includes the bat-
terminals. The terminals are labeled 30, 85, 86, 87 and tery cable connections at the engine and at the battery
87A. terminals. Refer to Connector Service in Chapter Three for
Terminal No. 87 (Figure 27) is Power IN to the relay additional information.
from the battery. Terminal No. 87 is connected to a solid
red lead and is part of the load circuits. NOTE
Terminals No. 85 and No. 86 (Figure 27) are the control If wing nuts are being used to secure the
circuits of the relay. Whenever one of these terminals is battery cables to the battery terminals, re-
grounded and the other terminal is connected to battery move and discard the wing nuts. Place a
corrosion resistant star (lock) washer over
voltage, the relay is energized. The polarity of terminals
each battery terminal, thenplace the battery
No. 85 and No. 86 is not important, as long as one is cable over the washer.Secure the connection
positive and one is negative. On the engines covered in this with a corrosion resistant hex nut. Tighten
manual, terminal No. 85 is connected to a black (ground) the hex nut securely using a wrench.
lead and terminal No. 86 is connected to a trim and tilt
switch (bluelwhite or greedwhite) lead. 2. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Charge or re-
Terminals No. 30 (Figure 27) and No. 87A make up the place the battery as required. Refer to Chapter Seven for
remainder of the load circuits of the relay. Terminal No. 30 battery information.
is normally open to terminal No. 87 (power IN). When the
relay is energized, terminal No. 87 has continuity to termi-
nal No. 30. Terminal No. 87A is normally closed to termi- Electrical 12.oubleshooting (Complete System)
nal No. 30. When the relay is energized, terminal No. 87A
has no continuity to terminal No. 30. On the engines Depending on the year and model, the relays are
covered in this manual, terminal No. 87A is always con- mounted to a simple bracket @gure 28, typical) or are
nected to a black (ground) lead and terminal No. 30 is mounted inside a relay and junction box (Figure 29,
connected to a trim motor (blue or green) lead. typical).
All 60" V4 and V6 models and all 90" V6 and V8 models one for each motor lead. Both relays hold their motor lead
use the relay bracket to hold the two relays to the power (blue or green) to ground when they are not activated.
head. On 60" models, the bracket is located on the front of When the UP relay is activated it takes the blue motor lead
the power head, just above the top, port carburetor as off of ground and connects it to battery voltage. The
shown in Figure 28. On 90" models, the bracket is located DOWN relay is inactive and holds the green lead to
on the port side of the power head, just behind the starter ground. Current can then flow from the positive terminal
motor. to the UP relay to the trim motor and back to ground
All 90" V4 models use the relay and junction box. The through the down relay causing the motor to run in the UP
box holds the two relays and provides junction points for direction.
the trim and tilt wiring harness. On cross-flow models, the When the DOWN relay is activated it takes the green
box is mounted between the cylinder heads at the rear of trim motor lead off of ground and connects it to battery
the power head. On loop-charged models, the box is voltage. The UP relay is inactive and holds the blue lead
mounted on the port side of the power head, just below the to ground. Current can then flow from the positive terminal
starter motor. to the DOWN relay to the trim motor and back to ground
through the UP relay, causing the motor to run in the
The two-wire motor is reversed by switchingthe polarity DOWN direction.
of the motor's blue and green leads. There are two relays, If the motor will run in one direction, but not the other,
the problem cannot be the trim motor.
On models equipped with a relay bracket, refer to
Figure 30 for the terminal location at the relay bracket
RELAY BRACKET
TERMINAL LOCATION (TOP VIEW)
Greedwhite
Green
Red
Black
Bluhhite
Blue
Red Black
CHAPTER TEN
and Figure 31 for a wiring diagram of the trim and tilt 5B. Relay and junction box models-Connect the test
system. Refer to the back of the manual for complete lamp probe to the battery voltage (B+) terminal at each
engine wiring harness diagrams. relay connector. These are the solid red leads. The test
On models equipped with a relay andjunction box, refer lamp must light at each point. If not, repair or replace the
to Figure 32 for a wiring diagram of the trim and tilt red lead from the starter solenoid to the relay box bus bar
system on 1995 models or Figure 33 for a wiring diagram (C, Figure 34) and on to each relay connector.
on 1996-1998 models. Refer to the back of the manual for 6A. Relay bracket models-Connect the test lamp lead to
complete engine wiring diagrams. the positive terminal of the battery and touch the test lamp
The tilt limit switch shown in Figures 32-33 is only probe to each of the four ground (black lead) terminals on
present on FasTrak systems. On conventional systems, the the relay bracket. The test lamp must light at each point
bluelwhite lead goes straight from the trim and tilt (Figure 30). If not, repair or replace the black lead from
switch(es) to the relay and junction box. the relay bracket to ground.
To troubleshoot the electric motor and switching cir- 6B. Relay and junction box models--Connect the test
cuits, refer to Figures 30-33 and proceed as follows: lamp lead to the positive terminal of the battery and touch
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the the test lamp probe to each of the two ground (black lead)
power head to prevent accidental starting. terminals at each relay connector. The test lamp must light
2. Venfy that the starter system will crank the engine at each point (a total of four connections). If not, repair or
normally. If not, refer to Chapter Three and troubleshoot replace the black lead from its relay connector to the relay
the starting system. The starting system must be function- box bus bar (A, Figure 35) and on to its power head
ing correctly for this procedure to be accurate. ground.
3A. Relay bracket models-Mark the original position of NOTE
each relay in the relay bracket, then remove both trim and Each trim and tilt switch present on the
tilt relays (Figure 28) from the relay mounting bracket. motor a d o r boat must be tested as de-
3B. Relay and junction box models-Remove the two scribed in the appropriate following step.
screws securing the cover to the relay and junction box. Also, on V8 models, thfuse shown in Figure
Remove the cover. Then mark the original position of each 31 is replaced with a circuit breakel:
relay in the box. Finally, remove the UP (A, Figure 34)
and DOWN (B) trim and tilt relays from the box. 7A. Lower cowl mounted trim switch (I995 relay and
4. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of junction box models&Disconnect the redlpurple lead at
the battery and touch the test lamp probe to metal the trim and tilt switch's bullet connector. Connect the test
anywhere on the engine block. The test lamp must light. lamp lead to a good power head ground and connect the
If the lamp does not light or is dim, the battery ground test lamp probe to the engine harness side of the redlpurple
cable connections are loose or corroded, or there is an lead's bullet connector. The test lamp must light. If not,
open circuit in the battery ground cable. Clean and repair or replace the redpurple lead from the fuse holder
tighten the connections or replace the negative battery to the bullet connector. This includes the junction point in
cable as required. the bottom starboard comer of the relay and junction box.
Reconnect all leads when finished.
NOTE
The connections in Steps 5 and 6 are made 7B. Lower cowl mounted trim switch (all other models)-
at the speczj?edterminals in the relay mount- Disconnect the redlpurple lead at the trim and tilt switch's
ing bracket or the relay connector terminals bullet connector. Connect the test lamp lead to a good
in the relay and junction box. The terminals power head ground and connect the test lamp probe to the
are easily identified by the color code of the engine harness side of the redpurple lead's bullet connec-
lead entering the bottom of the connector tor. The test lamp must light. If not, repair or replace the
body. Refer to Figure 30for correct terminal redlpurple lead from the fuse holder to the bullet connec-
location on the relay bracket used on 60" V4 tor. Reconnect the leads when finished.
and V6 models.
8A. Remote control mounted trim switch-Proceed as
5A. Relay bracket models-Connect the test lamp probe follows:
to the battery voltage (B+) terminals at the relay bracket. a. Follow the trim and tilt switch leads from the control
These are the solid red leads (Figure 30). The test lamp box until the three-pin connector is located. The
must light at each point. If not, repair or replace the red three leads are greenlwhite, redlwhite and
lead from the starter solenoid to the relay bracket. bluelwhite. Disconnect the three-pin connector.
TRIM AND TILT SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM

(RELAY BRACKET MODELS)
Diagram Key
Remote control
Trim Lower cowl

gauge trirnhlt
sw~tch
WPr- R
GMI-G
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
WIT WhttaTan
WW RedMlh~te
RlPr RedIPurple
GNV GreenMlhiie
Battery Starter W BlueNVhie
solenoid
494 CHAPTER TEN

(1995 RELAY AND JUNCTION BOX MODELS)
Tilt limit
switch
Relay and junction box Diagram Key
f- Nomnnection
breaker
Cdor Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BIT BlaMan
WIT WhiiITan
LMI BluetWhite
GMI GreenlWhii
RlPr RedIPurple

(1996-2002 RELAY AND JUNCTION BOX MODELS)
Tilt limit
switch
Relay and junction box Diagram Key
breaker
Trim
gauge
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
B/l BlWan
I I
WTT WhMan
I VW BlueMlhite
I I GMI GreenWhite
\,,,,,,,,,,,,,,d
1 RlPr RedlPurple
496 CHAPTER TEN
b. Connect the test lamp probe to the redlwhite lead on d. Disconnect the tilt limit switch leads from the main
the engine harness side of the connector. The test engine harness at their bullet connectors. Connect
lamp must light. the engine side of the connectors to each other
c. If not, repair or replace the redlpurple lead from the (bypassing the tilt limit switch).
fuse holder to the trim and tilt switch connector. e. Repeat substep b. If the test lamp now lights, the tilt
This will include one or more connectors, depend- limit switch is defective or improperly adjusted. If
ing on the model. the test lamp still does not light, repair or replace the
d. Reconnect all leads when finished. bluelwhite lead from the suspect mm and tilt switch
8B. Boat-mounted trim switch--Connect the test lamp to the relay bracket (or UP relay connector).
probe to the center tenninal (redlwhite, redlpurple or red 10. Connect the test lamp probe to the greedwhite termi-
lead) of each trim and tilt switch. The test lamp must light. nal in the relay bracket (Figure 30) or in the DOWN relay
If not, repair or replace the lead from the fuse holder output connector (in the relay and junction box).
terminal and the center terminal of the suspect trimltilt
switch. If it is necessary to disconnect any leads to test the
switch, reconnect all leads when finished.
NOTE
The connections in Steps 9 and 10are made
at the specified terminals in the relay mount-
ing bracket or at the UP or DOWN relay
connector in the relay and junction box.
9A. Conventional system--Connect the test lamp probe to

the bluelwhite terminal in the UP relay connector in the
relay and junction box.
a. Hold each trim and tilt switch in the UP position and
observe the test lamp. The test lamp must light - as
each switch is activated.
b. If not, connect the test lamp probe to the bluelwhite
lead or terminal at each trim and tilt switch. Hold
each trim and tilt switch in the UP position and
observe the test lamp. The test lamp must light when
c. If not, replace the defective trim and tilt switch. If
the test lamp lights at the trim and tilt switch, but not
at the UP relay bluelwhite terminal, repair or replace
the bluelwhite lead from the suspect trim and tilt
switch to the UP relay connector.
9B. FasTrak system--Connect the test lamp probe to the
bluelwhite terminal in the relay bracket (Figure 30) or in
the UP relay connector in the relay and junkon box.
a. Hold each trim and tilt switch in the UP position and
observe the test lamp. The test lamp must light as
b. If not, connect the test lamp probe to the bluelwhite
lead or terminal at each trim and tilt switch. Hold
each trim and tilt switch in the UP position and
observe the test lamp. The test lamp must light when
c. If not, replace the defective trim and tilt switch. If
the test lamp lights at the trim and tilt switch, but not
at the relay bracket or UP relay connector's
bluelwhite terminal, proceed to substep d.
a. Hold each trim and tilt switchin the DOWN position 14. Connect the test lamp lead to the positive terminal of
and observe the test lamp. The test lamp must light the battery. Alternately touch the test lamp probe to the
as each switch is activated. exposed blade of the UP relay (solid blue lead) and the
b. If not, connect the test lamp probe to the greedwhite exposed blade of the DOWN relay (solid green lead). The
lead (or terminal) at each trim and tilt switch. Hold test lamp must light at each test point. If not, replace the
each trim switch in the DOWN position and observe defective relay(s).
the test lamp. The test lamp must light when each 15. Push both relays into the relay bracket (or UP and
trim switch is activated. DOWN relay connectors) until they are seated.
16. Connectthe test lamp lead to the negative terminal of the
c. If not, replace the defective trim and tilt switch. If battery. Then separate the trim and tilt motor's large two-pin
the test lamp lights at the trim and tilt switch, but not connector.
at the relay bracket (or DOWN relay connector) 17. Connect the test lamp probe to the blue lead on the
greenlwhite terminal, repair or replace the engine harness side of the two-pin connector. Hold a trim
greenlwhite lead from the suspect trim and tilt and tilt switch in the UP position and observethe test lamp.
switch to the relay bracket (or DOWN relay connec- The test lamp must light. If not, the blue lead has an open
tor). circuit between the relay bracket (or UP relay connector)
11. Install both trim and tilt relays into the relay bracket and the two-pin connector. Repair or replace the blue lead
or into the UP and DOWN relay connectors in the relay as necessary.
and junction box. Then pull the relays out far enough to 18. Connect the test lamp probe to the green lead on the
allow access to the relay terminals, yet the terminals re- engine harness side of the two-pin connector. Hold a trim
main engaged. See Figure 36, typical. and tilt switch in the DOWN position and observe the test
12. Connect the test lamp probe to the exposed blade of lamp. The test lamp must light. If not, the green lead has
the UP relay (solid blue lead). Hold a trim and tilt switch an open circuit between the relay bracket (or DOWN relay
in the UP position and observe the test lamp. The test lamp connector) and the two-pin connector. Repair or replace
must light. If not, replace the UP relay. the green lead as necessary.
19. Reconnect the large two-pin trim and tilt motor con-
13. Connect the test lamp probe to the exposed blade of nector.
the DOWN relay (solid green lead). Hold a trim and tilt 20. If all previous tests are satisfactory and the electric
switch in the DOWN position and observe the test lamp. motor still does not operate correctly, repair or replace the
The test lamp must light. If not, replace the DOWN relay. electric motor.
NOTE
Each reby grounds its respective blue orgreen Relay ohmmeter tests
trim motor 2ead when not activated. Step 14 is
checking that the relays are providing the re- The relays can be bench-tested with an ohmmeter. Refer
quired ground path when not activated. to Relay Function in this chapter for a description of the
CHAPTER TEN
function of each relay terminal. Refer to Figure 37 for this allow the plunger to extend and repeat Step 4. If the meter
procedure. still indicates no continuity, replace the tilt limit switch.
1. Remove the suspect relay(s) from the relay bracket 5. Manually depress the tilt limit switch's plunger while
(Figure 28) or relay and junction box (Figure 29). noting the meter reading. The meter must indicate no
2. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. continuity when the plunger is depressed. If not, the switch
3. Connect the meter red lead to terminal No. 30 (Figure is defective and must be replaced.
37) and the meter black lead to terminal No. 87A. The 6. If the meter indicated no continuity when the plunger
meter must indicate continuity. was depressed in Step 5, the switch is functioning cor-
4. Move the meter black lead to terminal No. 87 (JGgure rectly. Reconnect both switch leads to the engine harness
37). The meter must indicate no continuity. bullet connectors. If necessary, adjust the switch as de-
5. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the appropriate scale to read scribed previously in this chapter.
70-100 ohms. Connect one meter lead to terminal No. 85
and the other meter lead to terminal No. 86 (Figure 37).
The meter must read 70-100 ohms. 'him and Tilt Switch and Boat Harness Tests
6. Using a suitable pair of jumper leads, connect a 12-volt
battery to terminals No. 85 and No. 86 (Figure 37). Polar- All trim and tilt switches are simple three-position,
ity is not important as long as one terminal is negative and three-terminal switches. The switches are spring loaded to
the other terminal is positive. the OFF position. Trim and tilt switches are supplied
7. Calibrate the ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. battery voltage through a red, redlwhite or rdpurple lead
8. With the jumper leads (and battery) attached, connect that is protected by the engine's 20-amp fuse. When acti-
the meter red lead to terminal No. 30 (Figure 37) and the vated, the switch takes the battery voltage and connects it
meter black lead to tenninal No. 87A. The meter must to the bluelwhite (UP) lead or the greedwhite (DOWN)
indicate no continuity. lead. The switch(es) can be quickly tested with an ohmme-
9. Move the meter black lead to terminal No. 87 (Figure ter. On remote control models, the trim and tilt boat harness
37). The meter must indicate continuity. can be tested along with the switch, or the switch can be
10. Remove the jumper leads from the relay and battery. tested alone.
11. Replace the relay if it does not perform as specified. Refer to WiringHarnesses in Chapter Three for descrip-
tion and identification of the Traditional Wiring Harness
and Modular Wiring Harness (MWS) systems. Refer to the
Tilt Limit Switch Test (Faslkak Models) back of the manual for wiring diagrams.
Models equipped with the FasTrak trim and tilt system
incorporate a tilt limit switch (A, Figure 38) which can be Lower cowl mounted switch
adjusted as needed to prevent the motor from tilting too
high, damaging the hull. If the switch fails in an open
1. Disconnect the lower cowl mounted trim and tilt
circuit, the motor will not trim UP. If the switch fails in a
switch's red, greedwhite and bluelwhite leads at their
closed circuit, the tilt limiting feature will be lost, and the bullet connectors. The red lead will be connected to a
motor may trim UP too far and contact the hull (in some redlpurple engine harness lead. All three connectors are
applications). located very close to the switch.
1. Tilt the outboard to the fully DOWN (in) position.
2. Follow the two tilt limit switch leads from the switch
and into the lower cowl until their bullet connectors are
located. Disconnect the two tilt limit switch leads at their
bullet connectors. Both leads are bluelwhite.
3. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. Connect an
ohmmeter lead to each of the tilt limit switch bluelwhite.
leads (not the engine harness leads). The meter must read
continuity. If not, proceed to Step 4. If the meter indicates
continuity, proceed to Step 5.
4. If the meter indicated no continuity in Step 3, verrfy
that the switch plunger is not being depressed by the cam
(B, Figure 38). If the plunger is depressed, the switch is
severely out of adjustment. Rotate the cam as necessary to
2. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1scale. Connect the 5A. Testing switch only--Connect the meter black lead to
meter red lead to the switch's red lead. the bluelwhite lead at the switch harness's three-pin con-
3. Connect the meter black lead to the switch's bluelwhite nector.
lead. The meter must indicate no continuity. Then activate 5B.Testing switch and boat harness--Connect the meter
the switch in the UP direction while noting the meter black lead to the bluelwhite lead of the boat wiring harness.
reading. The meter must indicate continuity while the This is pin D of the five-pin Arnphenol connector (tradi-
switch is held in the UP position. tional harnesses) or pin A of the three-pin Deutsch connec-
4. Move the meter black lead to the switch's green white tor (MWS systems).
lead. The meter must indicate no continuity. Then activate 6. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate no
the switch in the DOWN direction while noting the meter continuity.
reading. The meter must indicate continuity while the a. Testing switch only-If no continuity is noted, re-
switch is held in the DOWN position. place the switch.
5. Replace the switch if it does not perform as specified. b. Testing switch and harness-If no continuity is
Reconnect all leads when finished. noted, start this procedure over and follow the Test-
ing switch only steps. If the switch now tests satis-
Remote control mounted switch factorily, the boat harness is defective. Locate and
repair the short circuit between the bluelwhite and
Standard OMC boat wiring harness trim and tilt switch- redwhite (andor redpurple) leads in the boat har-
ing circuits use bludwhite (UP), greedwhite (DOWN) ness.
and rdwhite or redpurple (switching circuits battery 7. Activate the trim and tilt switch in the UP direction.
positive) leads. Other harness manufacturersmay use solid Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate continuity
blue and green leads instead of the bluelwhite and while the switch is held activated in the UP position.
greedwhite leads. The redwhite (or redpurple) lead may a. Testing switch only-If no continuity is noted, re-
also be replaced with a solid red lead. place the switch.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. b. Testing switch and harness-If no continuity is
2A. Testing switch only-Follow the trim and tilt switch noted, start this procedure over and follow the Test-
leads from the control box until the three-pin connector is ing switch only steps. If the switch now tests satis-
located. The three leads are greedwhite, redwhite and factorily, the boat harness is defective. Locate and
bluelwhite. Disconnect the three-pin connector. repair the open circuit in the bluelwhite or redwhite
2B. Testing switch and boat harness-Proceed as follows: (andor redfpurple) leads in the boat harness.
a. Traditional hamess--locate the trim and tilt har- 8A. Testing switch only-Move the meter black lead to the
ness five-pin Amphenol connector on the outboard greenlwhite lead of the switch harness's three-pin connec-
engine. The harness contains greedwhite, whiteltan, tor.
black/tan, bluelwhite and purplelred leads. Separate 8B. Testing switch and boat harness-Move the meter
the connector. black lead to the greedwhite lead of the boat wiring
harness. This will be pin D of the five-pin Amphenol
NOTE connector (traditional harnesses) or pin B of the three-pin
The electrical hamess junction box is lo- Deutsch connector (MWS systems).
cated on the port side of the power head.
9. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate no
b. MWS harness-Remove the cover from the electri- continuity.
cal harness junction box. Separate the three-pin a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
Deutsch connector and the six-pin Deutsch connec- b. Testing switch and harness-If not, start this proce-
tor. dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps.
3. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. If the switch now tests satisfactorily,the boat harness
4A. Testing switch only--Connect the meter red lead to is defective. Locate and repair the short circuit be-
the redwhite lead at the switch harness's three-pin tween the greenlwhite and redlwhite (andlor
connector. redpurple) leads in the boat harness.
4B. Testing switch and boat hamess--Connect the meter 10. Activate the trim and tilt switch in the DOWN direc-
red lead to the rdwhite (or redlpurple) lead of the boat tion. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate
wiring harness. This will be pin E of the five-pinAmphenol continuity while the switch is held activated in the DOWN
connector on traditional harnesses or pin No. 5 of the position.
six-pin Deutsch connector on MWS systems. a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
CHAPTER TEN
b. Testing switch and hamess-If not, start this proce- ness. This is pin D of the five-pin Amphenol connector
dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps. (traditional harnesses) or pin A of the three-pin Deutsch
If the switchnow tests satisfactorily,the boat harness connector (MWS systems).
is defective. Locate and repair the open circuit in the 6. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate no
greedwhite or &white (andor redpurple) leads in continuity.
the boat harness. a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
11. Reconnect all leads and connectors when finished. b. Testing switch and harness-If not, start this proce-
Reconnect the negative battery cable last. dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps.
Ifthe switchnowtests satisfactorily,the boat harness
Boat-mounted switch is defective. Locate and repair the short circuit be-
tween the bluelwhite and redwhite (or redpurple
Standard OMC boat wiring harness trim and tilt switch- [or red]) leads in the boat harness.
ing circuits use bludwhite (UP), greedwhite (DOWN) 7. Activate the trim and tilt switch in the UP direction.
and redwhite or rdpurple (switching circuits battery Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate continuity
positive) leads. Other harness manufacturersmay use solid while the switch is held activated in the UP position.
blue and green leads instead of the bluelwhite and a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
greedwhite leads. The redwhite (or redpurple) lead may b. Testing switch and harness-If not, start this proce-
also be replaced with a solid red lead. dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. If the switch now tests satisfactorily,the boat harness
2A. Testing switch only-Gain access to the trim and tilt is defective. Locate and repair the open circuit in the
switch. Note the position of the three leads, then discon- bluelwhite or redpurple (or redwhite or red) leads
nect all leads from the switch. in the boat harness.
2B. Testing switch and boat harness-Proceed as follows: 8A. Testing switch only-Move the meter black lead to the
a. Conventional harness-Locate the trim and tilt har- switch terminal that originally contained the greedwhite
ness five-pin Arnphenol connector on the outboard (or green) lead.
engine. The harness will contain greedwhite, 8B. Testing switch and boat harness-Move the meter
whiteltan, blackltan, bluelwhite and purplelred black lead to the greedwhite lead of the boat wiring
leads. Separate the connector. harness. This will be pin D of the five-pin Arnphenol
connector (traditional harnesses) or pin B of the three-pin
NOTE Deutsch connector (MWS systems).
The electrical hamess junction box is lo- 9. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate no
cated on the port side of the power head. continuity.
b. MWS hamess-Remove the cover from the electri- a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
cal harness junction box. Separate the three-pin b. Testing switch and harness-If not, start this proce-
Deutsch connector (greedwhite, bluelwhite and dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps.
whiteltan leads) and the six-pin Deutsch connector If the switch now tests satisfactorily,the boat harness
(blacklyellow, yellowlred, blacklwhite, purple, is defective. Locate and repair the short circuit be-
redpurple and purplelwhite leads). tween the greenlwhite and redpurple (and/or
3. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale. redwhite [andor red]) leads in the boat harness.
4A. Testing switch only-Connect the meter red lead to the 10. Activate the trim and tilt switch in the DOWN direc-
switch's center terminal (terminal that was connected to tion. Note the meter reading. The meter must indicate
redfwhite, rdpurple or red lead). continuity while the switch is held activated in the DOWN
4B. Testing switch and boat harness--Connect the meter position.
red lead to the redJpurple lead of the boat wiring harness. a. Testing switch only-If not, replace the switch.
This is pin E of the five-pin Arnphenol connector on b. Testing switch and harness-If not, start this proce-
traditional harnesses or pin No. 5 of the six-pin Deutsch dure over and follow the Testing switch only steps.
connector on MWS systems. If the switch now tests satisfactorily,the boat harness
5A. Testing switch only-Connect the meter black lead to is defective. Locate and repair the open circuit in the
the switch terminal that originally contained the greedwhite or redpurple (or redwhite [or red])
bluelwhite (or blue) lead. leads in the boat harness.
5B. Testing switch and boat harness--Connect the meter 11. Reconnect all leads and connectors when finished.
black lead to the bludwhite lead of the boat wiring har- Reconnect the negative battery cable last.
ELECTRIC MOTOR TESTING Amperage Draw Test
This procedure applies to Conventional and FasTrak During the following tests, the outboard motor must not
trim and tilt systems. This test measures the time required be running, and no external forces can be applied to it.
for the system to cycle from full DOWN to fully UP (and Refer to Table 1for all amperage specifications and Table
vice-versa) and the amperagedraw of the electric motor as 2 for normal system cycle times.
it operates the hydraulic system in the following modes of A suitable stop watch and a DC ammeter capable of
operation: measuring up to 50 amps (conventional system) or 100
1. Full UP and full DOWN stall. amps (FasTrak system) are necessary to perform the fol-
2. Trimming UP and Tilting UP (conventional systems). lowing procedure. The battery must be fully charged and
The trim UP measurements are taken as the trim rams are in acceptable condition for the following test to be valid.
extending and the tilt UP measurementsare taken after the Refer to Chapter Seven for battery information. Refer to
trim rams are fully extended and as the tilt cylinder is the end of the book for wiring diagrams.
extending.
3. Trimming UP and Trimming IN (FasTrak system). NOTE
Ifa clamp-on or inductive ammeter is used,
These measurements are only taken when the trim rams
install the probe onto t h relay bracket red
are extending (trimming UP) or retracting (trimming lead and go directly to Step 4.
DOWN), but not in the Tilt UP or Tilt Down ranges.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
NOTE
The trim range of both conventional and 2. Install a conventional ammeter as follows:
FasTrak systems is &fined as the range that a. Disconnect the red lead (that connects to the trim
the trim rams remain in contact with the and tilt relay bracket) from the starter solenoid bat-
swivelbracket. Once the swivel bracket loses tery positive terminal. Then reinstall the nut to se-
contact with the trim rams, the tilt range is cure the battery cable and other engine harness red
entered. The trim range on conventionalsys- leads to the starter solenoid.
tems is approximately 15" and the trim range
b. Connect an ammeter of sufficientsizeto measure the
on FasTrak systems is approximately 21".
maximum rated draw of the trim and tilt system in
SERIES between the relay bracket red lead and the
Electric Motor Identification starter solenoid battery positive terminal. Hook the
red lead of the ammeter to the starter solenoid posi-
Specifications vary depending on the manufacturer and tive terminal and the black lead of the ammeter to
model of the electric motor. The motor is manufactured by the relay bracket red lead.
either Prestolite, Bosch or Showa. Identify the motors by c. Make sure the connections are secure and insulated
measuring the outer diameter of the motor's mainhousing from any other leads or grounds.
and noting the exit location of the motor leads. Note that 3. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
all motors are interchangeable as assemblies. 4A. Conventional systems--Operate the trim and tilt sys-
a. Prestolite-The main housing is 3.0 in. (76.2 mm) tem through several fully UP and DOWN cycles. Record
in diameter. The motor leads exit from the top of the the following:
motor and pass through a hollow retainer nut. a. Note the time required to travel from the fully UP to
b. Bosch-The main housing is 2.5 in. (63.5 mm) in full DOWN positions and full DOWN to fully UP
diameter. The motor leads exit from the top of the positions. Compare your results to Table 2.
motor through a molded rubber grommet. b. Note the ammeter reading during a fully UP stall
c. Showa-The main housing is 3.0 in. (76.2 mm) in (motor fully tilted UP and electric motor running)
diameter. The motor leads exit from the top of the and during a full DOWN stall (motor fully trimmed
motor and are secured by a retainer plate, held by DOWN and electric motor running). Compare your
two screws. results to Table 1.
d. Showa-The main housing is 2.4 in. (61 mm) in c. Note the ammeter reading as the trim rams are
diameter. The motor leads exit from the side of the extending. Compare your results to Table 1.
bottom (mounting flange end) of the motor. The d. Note the ammeter reading as the unit is tilting OUT
motor main housing is a single piece of stamped (after the swivel bracket has lost contact with the
steel. trim rams).
CHAPTER TEN
4B. FasTrak systems--Operate the trim and tilt system 9. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
through several fully UP and DOWN cycles. Record the Remove the ammeter and reconnect the relay bracket red
following: lead to the starter solenoid battery positive terminal.
a. Note the time required to travel from the fullDOWN Tighten the nut securely, then coat the connection with
position to the full trim UP position. Compare your OMC Black Neoprene Dip (Quick Reference Data).
results to Table 2. 10. Reconnect the negative battery cable when finished.
b. Note the time required to travel from the full trim
UP position to the full DOWN position (point where
the swivel bracket first contacts the trim rams, until No-Load Amperage Draw Test
the rams are fully retracted). Compare your results (AllSystems)
to Table 2.
The trim and tilt motor no-load amperage draw test is an
c. Note the ammeter reading during a fully UP stall
indicator of internal trimand tilt motor condition.A clamp-
(motor fully tilted UP and electric motor running)
on or inductive ammeter, if available, is simplest to use as
and during a full DOWN stall (motor fully trimmed
DOWN and electric motor running). Compare your no electrical connections are required. Make sure that the
results to Table 1. ammeter being used can read higher than the anticipated
d. Note the ammeter reading as the trim rams are highest amp reading (Table 1).
extending. Compare your results to Table 1. The trim and tilt motor's speed must be measured during
e. Note the ammeter reading as the trim rams are the no-load amperage draw test. A vibration tachometer,
retracting. Compare your results to Table 1. such as the Frahm Reed Tachometer can be used for this
5. I f the cycle times and amperage draw readings are test. Simply hold the tachometer against the motor's frame
within specifications and all hydraulic functions are nor- while the motor is running to measure the speed. A strobo-
mal, the system is operating correctly and testing is com- scopic tachometer may also be used, but remember to
plete. make a reference mark on the drive end of the armature
shaft before beginning the test. Another option is to use a
NOTE tachometer designed for model airplane engines, available
Zfthe tilt tube nut is over-tightened, the am- from most hobby shops. This type of tachometer is simply
perage draw readings and system cycle held against the end of the armature shaft to measure the
times will be excessive. speed.
6A. Conventional system-If the system cycle time andor To perform the no-load amperage draw test, refer to
the amperage draw reading is excessive in one or both Figure 39 and proceed as follows:
directions, loosen one tilt (steering) tube nut several turns. 1. Remove the electric motor from the trim and tilt system
Retighten the nut to 50-54 ft.-lb. (67.8-73.2 N-m), then as described later in this chapter. Securely fasten the motor
loosen the nut 118-114 turn. Recheck the system cycle in a soft-jawed vise or other suitable holding fixture. Do
times. not damage the motor by crushing it in the vise.
6B. FasTrak systems-If the system cycle time (andlor the 2. Obtain a fully charged startingbattery with a minimum
amperage draw reading) is excessive in one or both direc- rating of 360 cold cranking amps (CCA), 465 marine
tions, loosen the starboard tilt (steering) tube nut several cranking amps (MCA) or 50 ampere-hours. The battery
turns. Retighten the nut to 50-54 ft.-lb. (67.8-73.2 N-m), must be in good condition for the test results to be accurate.
then loosen the nut 118-114turn. Recheck the system cycle 3. Connect a suitable voltmeter to the battery terminals as
times. shown in Figure 39.
7. I f the amperage draw reading(s) is excessive, remove
the electric motor and perform the No-Load Amperage CAUTION
Draw Test as described in this chapter. I f the no-load Make sure the ammeter used in the next step
current draw is within specification, check the hydraulic is of suficient capacity to measure the ex-
pected amperage draw (Table 1 ) with an
pump for binding, blocked passages or plugged check adequate safety margin. For example, if the
valves. expected amperage draw is 30 amps, use a
8. If the current draw is below specification, remove the 50 amp (or larger) ammeter
electric motor and perform the No-Load Amperage Draw
Test as described in this chapter. I f the no-load current draw 4A. Conventional Ammeter-Using heavy (10 gauge
is within specification, check the hydraulic system for a minimum) jumper leads or cables, connect a conventional
worn or damaged hydraulic pump, valves stuck open, ammeter in series with the positive battery terminal and
broken valve springs or other internal leakage. the trim and tilt motor's blue terminal as shown in Figure
39. The ammeter's red lead (or positive terminal) must be 5A. If a heavy duty remote starter switch is available,
connected to the battery's positive terminal and the amme- connect one switch lead to the negative battery terminal
ter's black lead (or negative terminal) must be comected and the other switch lead to the electric motor's green lead
to the electric motor's blue terminal. as shown in Figure 39.
4B. Inductive or Clamp-onAmmeter-Using heavy gauge
battery cables or jumper cables, connect the positive bat- WARNNG
Make the last electrical connection to the
tery terminal to the electric motor's blue lead. Then install specified electric motor terminal. Do not
the clamp-on or inductive ammeter over this cable.
- suarks at or near the battery or a
create any A
serious explosion could occul:

NOTE
A heavy-duty automotive remote starter 5B. If a heavy duty remote starter switch is not available,
switch can be used to make the connection connect a heavy (10 gauge minimum)jumper lead or cable
between the negative battery terminal and to the negative battery terminal. Do not connect the other
the specz9ed electric motor terminal. Make end of the jumper lead to the electric motor at this time.
sure the switch is rated for more than the
expected amperage draw (Table I ) . NOTE
The battery must maintain at least 12.0-12.4
volts during the test. If the voltage falls be-
low this range, yet the current draw does not
exceed spec$cation (Table I), the battery is
NO LOAD AMPERAGE defective, undercharged, or not of suficient
DRAW TEST capacityfor the test.
6. When ready to perform the no-load test (in the UP
Two-pin direction), prepare a tachometer for the speed measure-
Blue connector ment, then depress the remote starter switch button (or
quickly and firmly connect the remaining cable to the
electric motor green lead).
a. Note the amperage and speed readings.
b. Venfy the voltage range. The battery must maintain
12.0-12.4 volts during the test.
c. Make sure the armature shaft rotates in a clockwise
direction (as viewed from the drive end).
d. Release the remote starter switch button (or quickly
disconnect the jumper lead from the electric motor
green lead).
7. If the motor does not perform to specifications (Table
I), the motor must be repaired (if repairable) or replaced.
8. If the motor rotates in the wrong direction, make sure
the motor blue lead is receiving positive voltage and the
motor green lead is receiving negative voltage. If polarity
is correct and the motor rotates the wrong direction, re-
place the electric motor.
9. If the motor performed satisfactorily in Step 6, continue
to Step 10.
10. To test the electric motor in the DOWN direction,
Remote switch the leads at the electric motor so the battery positive
starter
switch terminal and ammeter are connected to the electric motor
green lead and the negativebattery terminal and the remote
starter switch or jumper lead is connected to the electric
motor blue lead.
11. When ready to perform the no-load test (in the DOWN
direction), prepare a tachometer for the speed measure-
ment, then depress the remote starter switch button (or
CHAPTER TEN
quickly and firmly connect the jumper lead from the the starting system. The starting system must be function-
negative battery terminal to the electric motor blue lead). ing correctly for thiis procedure to be accurate.
a. Note the amperage and speed readings. 3. Verify that the 1 (ignition) terminal on the back of the
b. Verify the voltage range. The battery must maintain trim gauge is receiving one volt of battery voltage when-
12.0-12.4 volts during the test. ever the ignition (key) switch is in the ON or RUN position.
c. Make sure the armature shaft rotates in a counter- If not, repair or replace the purple lead between the ignition
clockwise direction (as viewed from the drive end). switch and the trim gauge, or replace the defectiveignition
d. Release the remote starter switch button (or quickly switch.
disconnect the jumper lead from the electric motor 4. Verify that the (; (ground) terminal on the back of the
blue lead). trim gauge is connected to a good ground. Connect a
12. If the motor does not perform to specifications (Table voltmeter's red lead to the positive battery terminal and
I), the motor must be repaired (if repairable) or replaced. the voltmeter's black lead to the gauge's G terminal. The
13. If the motor rotates in the wrong direction, make sure meter must indicate within one volt of battery voltage.
the motor green lead is receiving positive voltage and the If not, repair or replace the black or blacwtan (ground)
motor blue lead is receiving negative voltage. If polarity is lead between the trim gauge and the negative battery
correct and the motor rotates the wrong direction, replace terminal.
the electric motor. 5. Disconnect the whiteltan lead from the S (sending unit)
terminal on the back of the gauge. Turn the ignition switch
to the ON or RUN position and observe the gauge. The
Electrical ~ u b l e s h o o t i n g gauge must indicate full DOWN. If not, replace the trim
(IXm Gauge and Sending Unit) gauge.
The trim gauge functions as a simple ohmmeter and CAUTION
reads the varying resistance of the trim gauge sending unit. Never connect a jumper lead between the I
When the sending unit resistance is high, the gauge indi- (ignition) tenninal and any other terminal
cates DOWN. When the sending unit resistance is low, the on the back of the trim gauge. The gauge
gauge indicates UP. andlor wiring harness will be irreparably
The trim gauge receives switched battery voltage from damaged.
the ignition (key) switch through the purple lead. The trim
6. With the ignition switch in the ON or RUN position,
gauge is grounded at all times by the black lead. The blue
connect a suitable jumper lead between the S (sending
lead is for lighting the gauge and does not affect gauge unit) and G (ground) terminals on the back of the gauge.
operation. Observe the gauge. The gauge must indicate fully UP. If
Trim sending units have a whiteltan lead that connects not, replace the trim gauge.
to the trim gauge S (sending unit) terminal and a black/tan 7. lkm the ignition switch to the OFF or STOP position
lead that connects to a ground (black) lead in the engine and reconnect the whiteltan lead to the S terminal on the
wiring harness (relay bracket models) or to the ground bus back of the gauge.
bar (A, Figure 35) in the relay and junction box. An 8. Disconnect the sending unit whiteltan and blacWtan
additional green (ground) lead is secured to the stern leads at the sending unit's two-pin Amphenol connector.
bracket by one of the trim sending unit mounting screws. 9. Turn the ignition switch to the ON or RUN position.
Basically, all leads, other than the whiteltan lead, must be The trim gauge must indicate full DOWN. If not, a short
connected to ground. circuit exists between the whiteltan lead and engine
The sending unit uses a two-pin Amphenol connector to ground. This can be a direct short to metal anywhere on
connect the whiteltan and blackttan leads to the engine the power head, or an internal harness short circuit
harness. The green lead is connected to an engine harness between a black (or blacWtan) lead and the whiteltan
black (ground) lead with a bullet connector. lead. Repair or replace the whiteltan lead (as necessary)
Refer to the end of the book for specific wiring diagrams between the trim sending unit connector and the trim
for your engine. To troubleshoot the trim gauge and send- gauge S terminal.
ing unit circuits, refer to Figures 40-42 (as applicable) and 10. With the ignition switch in the ON or RUN position,
proceed as follows: proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the a. Using a suitable jumper lead, connect the whiteltan
power head to prevent accidental starting. lead (pin A) to the blackttan lead (pin B) on the
2. Verify that the starter system will crank the engine engine harness side of the trim sending unit Amphe-
normally. If not, refer to Chapter Three and troubleshoot no1 connector.

(RELAY BRACKET MODELS)
Diagram Key
Remote control
Trim Lower cowl

gauge trim~ti~t
switch
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BMI BlackMlh~te
BTT BlacldTan
WTT WhlteTTan
WW RedMlh~te
WPr Redpurple
GMI GreenMIh~te
Battery Starter W BlueMIh~te
solenoid
506 CHAPTER TEN

(1995 RELAY AND JUNCTION BOX MODELS)
Tilt limtt
sw~tch
Relay and lunchon box D~agramKey
El
motor
breaker
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BIT BlaMan
WIT WhiITan
VW BlueMlhii
GIW GreenMlhii
FWr RedlPurple

(1996-2002 RELAY AND JUNCTION BOX MODELS)
Tilt limit
switch
Diagram Key
Relay and junction box
+ Nomnnection
breaker
Trim
gauge
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BIT BlaMan
I I
WIT Whiian
I LMI BlueMIh'i
I\,,,,,,,,,,,,,,d I GNV GreenMlh'i
1 RPr RedlPurple
CHAPTER TEN
b. The gauge must indicate fully UP. If not, an open 4. Make sure that each ground lead (blacwtan and green)
circuit is present in the whiteltan or blackltan leads. is securely fastened to the power head or connected to the
Proceed to substep c. engine wiring harness and that each lead's terminal is not
c. Connect a suitable jumper lead between the loose, corroded or damaged. Correct any defects noted.
whiteltan lead (pin A) and a good engine ground. If 5. Disengage the tilt lock, remove the hoist or blocks and
the trim gauge now indicates fully UP, an open trim the motor to its fully DOWN position.
circuit is present in the black/tan lead. Repair or 6. Calibrate an ohmmeter on the appropriate scale to read
replace the blackltan lead between the trim sending between 0-100 ohms (typically R x 1).
unit two-pin Amphenol connector and its power 7. Using suitablejumper leads, connect the meter red lead
head ground terminal. If the gauge still does not to the whiteltan (pin A) lead of the trim sending unit
indicate full up, proceed to substep d. two-pin Amphenol connector and the meter black lead to
the b l a c k lead (pin B) of the same connector.
NOTE
On models equipped with a relay and junc- 8. Note the meter reading. With the motor trimmed fully
tion box, the whitdtan lead is connected at a DOWN, the meter must read a minimum of 80 ohms.
junction point (B, Figure 35) inside of the 9. Tilt the motor to the fully UP position while noting the
box. meter reading. The meter must indicate a smooth decrease
in resistance as the motor is tilting and must read a maxi-
d. If the trim gauge still does not indicate fully UP at mum of 10 ohms when the outboard reaches the fully UP
this time, an open circuit is present in the whiteltan position.
lead between the trim gauge S terminal and the
sendingunit two-pin Amphenol connector. Repair or NOTE
replace the white/tan lead as necessary. If the resistance readings change smoothly,
but the readings are too high or too low at
11. If all tests are satisfactory to this point, test the trim
the filly UP and full DOWN positions,
sending unit as described in the next section. loosen the trim sending unit mounting
12. Reconnect all leads and connectors when finished. screws and position the sending unit in the
Reconnect the spark plug leads last. middle of its adjustment slots. Retighten the
mounting screws securely and repeat Steps
8-9.
Ttim Sending Unit Test
10. Replace the trim sending unit if it does not perform as
The trim sending unit is a variable resistor. The resis- specified, or if the resistance does not change smoothly as
tance must change smoothly as the engine is tilted and the outboard is tilted UP and DOWN.
trimmed. If the resistance jumps or is erratic at any point 11. Reconnect all leads when finished. Refer to Trim
in the tilt or trim range, the sender is defective and must be Sending Unit Adjustment, in this chapter.
replaced.
The white/tan lead provides the signalfor the trim gauge.
The other leads (blackltan and green) are connected to POWER TRIM AND
ground. TILT SYSTEM SERVICE
1. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and Conventionnll System
engage the tilt lock, support the gearcase with a hoist or
block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling System removaUinstalWn
during this procedure.
2. Make sure that the ground (green) lead is securely While internally the same, the mounting of the system
fastened under one of the trim sending unit mounting is different between V4 and V8 models. To remove and
screws. Make sure the screw and ground lead terminal are install the conventional trim and tilt system, proceed as
not loose, corroded or damaged. Correct any defects noted. follows:
3. Trace the sending unit lead(s) into the motor's lower 1. V4 models-Note the position of the trim limit rod, then
cowl and to the sending unit connector. Separate the con- remove the rod from the stern brackets.
nector and inspect the connector for loose, corroded or 2. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and
damaged pins. Check the connector body for pins that have engage the tilt lock, support the gearcase with a hoist or
backed out of the connector body. Finally, check for broken block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling
or damaged leads on both sides of the connector bodies. during this procedure.
3. Remove the locking clip from the upper pivot pin. See 7A. V4 models-Remove the six screws securing the
Figure 43, typical. Push the pivot pin from the swivel power trim and tilt unit to the stem brackets. There are three
bracket and tilt cylinder eye. screws on each side of the unit, all located in the lower half
4. Operate the power trim and tilt unit in the DOWN of each stem bracket.
diiection until the tilt cylinder and both trim rams are 7B. V8 models-Proceed as follows:
completely retracted. If the unit will not operate, open the a. Remove the eight screws securing the power trim
manual release valve and manually retract the tilt cylinder and tilt unit to the stem brackets. There are four
ram. The trim rams cannot be retracted manually. screws on each side of the unit. TWO screws are
5. If the unit is to be disassembled, relieve the system's located on the wider portion of the stembrackets and
intemal pressure as follows: two screws are located down by the thrust rods.
a. Briefly bump the trim switch up, then down, then up b. Remove a nut from one end of both thrust rods. Then
again. The motor must run briefly in each direction, carefully drive both thrust rods from the stem brack-
as specified. This will help relieve intemal pressure. ets (and trim and tilt unit). The thrust rods are located
b. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts at the very bottom of the stem brackets.
its retaining ring. 8. Pivot the power trim and tilt unit rearward and out of
c. Cover the reservoir fill plug with a shop towel and the stem brackets, top first. Pull the electric leads from the
carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing hole in the stem brackets as the unit is removed. Place the
any intemal pressure to vent before fully removing unit on a clean workbench or mount it in a suitableholding
the plug. It is normal for fluid to vent from the fixture.
reservoir. 9. Remove the two bushings from the tilt cylinder rod eye.
d. Reinstall the fill plug and close the manual release
NOTE
valve to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
Use OMC Triple Guard Greasefor all grease
6. Disconnect the electric motor leads as follows: applications.
a. Separate the large two-pin connector (on the power
head). Remove and discard the O-ring from the 10. To install the power trim and tilt unit, begin by greas-
connector body on the electric motor side. ing the two rod eye bushings and installing them into the
b. Note the routing of the leads and the position of any tilt cylinder rod eye.
clamps and tie-straps. Then remove any clamps and 11. Position the trim and tilt unit into the stem bracket.
tie-straps securing the leads and pull the leads free Insert the bottom of the unit first, then rotate the top of the
from the power head. unit into the stem brackets. Route the electrical leads I1
c. Carefully remove the rubber grommet from the rear through the hole in the stem bracket before the unit fully
of the connector body on the electric motor side. enters the stem brackets.
Note the location of the blue and green leads in the 12A. V4 models-Proceed as follows:
connector body. a. Coat the threads of the six mounting screws with
d. Using a small screwdriver, depress the tab locking OMC Nut Lock Threadlocking adhesive.
each terminal to the connector body, then pull each b. Align the screw holes, then install the six screws and
terminal from the connector body. washers. Evenly tighten the screws to 18-20 ft.-lb.
(24.4-27.1 N-m).
c. Install the trim limit rod into the set of stem bracket
holes noted on removal.
12B. V8 models-Proceed as follows:
a. Coat the smooth surface of the thrust rods with OMC
Triple Guard Grease. Align the thrust rod holes and
install both thrust rods.
b. Coat the threaded end of both thrust rods with OMC
Gasket Sealing Compound. Install a nut onto each
thrust rod. Tighten the nuts finger-tight at this time.
c. Coat the threads of the eight mounting screws with
OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive.
d. Align the screw holes, then install the eight screws
and washers. Evenly tighten the screws to 18-20
ft.-lb. (24.4-27.1 N-m).
CHAPTER TEN
e. Using a backup wrench, tighten the nuts on each

h s t rod to 30-35 ft.-lb. (40.7-47.5 N-m).
13. Route the electric motor leads into the lower cowl.
Clamp and/or tie-strap the leads as noted on removal.
Reconnect the leads as follows:
a. Insert each terminal into the large two-pin connector
body. Make sure the leads are reinstalled in their
original location. CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM
b. Make sure each terminal locks into place.
c. Once the terminals are locked in place, push the
grommet into the rear of the connector body. 1. Electric motor 31. 0-rlng
d. Grease a new O-ring and install it into the connector and lead assembly 32. Manual release valve
2. Screw and lockwasher 33. Trim UP relief
body's groove. 3. O-ring valve assembly
14. Connect the large two-pin connector to its engine 4. Fllter 34. Check ball
harness mate. Make sure the bodies are locked together. 5. Pump drive coupler 35. Fllter
15. If the manual release valve is open, turn it clockwise 6. Socket screw 36. Filter valve assembly
until it is closed, then tighten it to 45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2 and lockwasher 37. Plate
7. Hex screw, lockwasher 38. Screw, lockwasher
N.m). and flat washer and flat washer
16. Carefully operate the unit in the UP direction until the 8. Pump assembly 39. Reservoir
tilt cylinder rod eye is aligned with its hole in the swivel 9. O-ring 40. Screw and lockwasher
bracket. 10. Spring 41. Level plug and O-ring
11. O-ring 42. Sleeve O-ring
17. Grease the upper pivot pin. Align the cylinder rod eye 12. Valve core 43. Sleeve backup ring
with the swivel bracket bore, then install the pin. Secure 13. Valve core O-rings 44. Trim ram sleeve
the pin by installing the locking clip (Figure 43, typical). 14. Valve seat 45. Trim ram seal
18. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist, or remove the 15. Valve seat O-ring 46. Trlm ram
blocks. Refer to Maintenance in this chapter, and perform 16. Valve core tip seal 47. Trim ram end cap
17. Down rellef 48. Quad ring
the Reservoirfluid check. valve assembly 49. Wlper
18. Thermal expansion 50. End cap outer O-ring
valve assembly 51. End cap backup ring
Electric motor removaUinstaUation 19. Check valve 52. Lower pivot
small O-rings pin bushing
Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. Lubricate aU 20. Check valve 53. Lower (high-volume
internal components with OMC Power T r i d i l t and large O-rings chamber) line
Steering Fluid or Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid. 21. Reverse lock check 54. Line fining O-rings
valve cartridge 55. Upper (low-volume
1. Remove the power trim and tilt unit as described in the 22. Pump control piston chamber) line
previous section. 23. Pump control 56. Tllt cylinder
2. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts its piston O-ring 57. Nut
retaining ring. 24. Trim check 58. Washer
valve cartridge 59. Rod-to-pistonO-ring
3. Cover the reservoir fill plug with a shop towel and 25. Tllt check 60. O-ring
carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any valve cartridge 61. Piston assembly
internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug. 26. Mm/tilt separation 62. End cap O-ring
4. Reinstall the fill plug and close the manual release valve valve cartridge 63. Tilt cylinder end cap
to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 1 27. Manifold assembly 64. O-ring
28. Pipe plug 65. Wiper
29. Tilt cylinder 66. Rod and eye
NOTE lower pivot pin 67. Upper pivot
Use caution during system disassembly, as 30. Retaining ring pin bushing
there still may be residual pressure in the
system. During disassembly, cover each
component with a shop towel and slowly
loosen the component andlor its fasteners,
allowing any internalpressure to vent before
fully removing the component.
5. Remove the three large screws and washers (2, Figure
44) securing the motor to the manifold assembly.
CHAPTER TEN
6. Remove the motor from the manifold. Remove and 3. Carefully lift the pump from the manifold bore. Re-
discard the motor O-ring (3, Figure 44). Locate and secure move and discard the O-ring (9, Figure 44) sealing the
the pump drive coupler (5, Figure 44). pump to the manifold.
7. Inspect the rubber ball in the tang of the pump drive 4. Remove the DOWN relief valve components (17, Fig-
coupler. If missing, install a new ball into its bore. The ure 44) from their bore (located under the pump). Remove
rubber ball helps absorb the shock loads as the motor is and discard the valve core tip seal (16) from the valve core.
started and stopped, preventing the coupler from shearing.
8. Remove the filter (4, Figure 44) from the top of the NOTE
hydraulic pump. Clean the filter in a mild solvent. If the Do not damage the t h e m 1 expansion valve
filter cannot be satisfactorily cleaned, discard it. components (18, Figure 44) during removal.
9. To installthe electric motor, begin by installing the filter
over the hydraulic pump. Then insert the pump drive 5. Remove the thermal expansion valve spring, then pull
coupler into the hydraulic pump. the valve core from the valve seat with a suitable pair of
10. Prime the hydraulic pump as follows: expanding pliers. Do not distort or damage the valve core.
a. Fill the hydraulic pump cavity with the recom- Remove and discard the two O-rings from the valve core.
mended trim and tilt fluid until the pump is sub- 6. Remove the thermal expansion valve seat with a suit-
merged. able pair of expanding pliers. Do not damage or distort the
b. Rotate the pump drive coupler back and forth until valve seat and do not insert the pliers more than 118in. (3.2
all air bubbles are eliminated. If no resistance is felt, mm) into the seat. Remove and discard the valve seat's
the pump is air-locked. O-ring.
c. If the pump is air-locked,depress the two check balls 7. Clean the valve components in a mild solvent, then
in the openings in the top of the pump. Then rotate inspect the components for damage, wear or debris. Make
the drive shaft again. A noticeable increase in effort sure the DOWN relief valve seat (in the manifold bore) is
will occur when the pump begins drawing fluid. free of contamination or other debris.
d. Add fluid as necessary to keep the pump submerged. 8. To install the pump, begin by installing the thermal
11. Once the pump is primed, install a new O-ring onto expansion valve (18, Figure 44) as follows:
the electric motor. Lubricate the O-ring with the trim and
a. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the valve
tilt fluid.
seat's groove. Insert the valve seat into its manifold
12. Position the motor to the manifold assembly. Rotate
bore. Push the seat into the manifold until it is seated.
the motor as necessary to engage the pump drive coupler,
then seat the motor to the cylinder and manifold assembly. b. Lubricate two new O-rings and install them into the
Make sure the O-ring was not displaced during the assem- valve core grooves. The thicker O-ring goes into the
bly. groove at the lower end of the core. Insert the valve
13. Secure the motor with three screws and washers. core into the valve seat. Push the core into the seat
Tighten the screws evenly and securely. until it is seated.
14. Install the power trim and tilt unit as described in the c. Insert the spring into the valve core.
previous section. 9. Install a new valve core tip (16, Figure 44) into the
DOWNrelief valve core's tip. Then lubricate the valve core
and install it into its manifold bore. Finally, install the
Hydraulic pump removaUinstalh.tion spring into the valve seat.
The hydraulic pump is serviced only as an assembly. Do 10. Install a new pump O-ring (9, Figure 44) into its recess
not attempt to disassemble and reassemble the pump. If the in the pump mounting surface.
pump is to be reused, it must be washed only in clean trim 11. Carefully position the pump into the manifold bore,
and tilt fluid. Replace any O-ring that has been removed. being careful not to displace the O-ring. Make sure the
Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. Lubricate all mounting screw holes are aligned, then seat the pump into
internal components with OMC Power TrimITilt and the bore.
Steering Fluid or Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid. 12. Install the two m e n head screws and washers and the
1. Remove the electric motor as described in the previous single hex head screw, lockwasher and flat washer. Tighten
section. the screws finger-tight, then evenly tighten the screws to
2. Remove the two Allen head screws and lockwashers (6, 25-30 in.-lb. (2.8-3.4 N.m) in a minimum of three progres-
Figure 44) and the single hex head screw, lockwasher and sive stages. The pump must be pulled evenly against the
flat washer (7) securing the pump to the manifold assem- manifold or it will be damaged.
bly. 13. Install the electric motor as described in this chapter.
Manifold and trim ram disassembly other check valves. Tag or mark the check valve for reas-
sembly purposes.
Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. Discard all O- 10. Remove the tilt check valve (25, Figure 44), trim
rings and seals removed during disassembly and install check valve (24) and reverse lock check valve (21) car-
new O-rings and seals during the assembly procedure. tridges from the manifold with a drag link socket (or
Lubricate all internal components with OMC Power equivalent). Since the valves are identical, mark or tag each
Trim/Tilt and Steering Fluid or Dexron 11automatic trans- valve so it can be reinstalled in its original position. Then
mission fluid. remove and discard the two O-rings from each cartridge.
1. Remove the hydraulic pump as described in the pre- 11. Using a pair of needlenose pliers, pull the pump con-
vious section. trol piston (22, Figure 44) from the reverse lock check
2. Remove the manual release valve retaining ring with a valve bore (21). Locate and secure the two piston springs,
suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers. Then remove the then remove and discard the piston's O-ring (23, Figure
manual release valve from the manifold. Remove and 44).
discard the valve's O-ring. 12. If the fill plug (41, Figure 44) has not yet been
3. Remove the rigid hydrauliclines (53 and 55, Figure 44) removed, remove the fill plug from the reservoir and
from the top and bottom of the tilt cylinder with a line discard its O-ring.
wrench. If the top line fitting of the tilt cylinder has an 13. Remove both trim ram end caps (47, Figure 44) with
adaptor fitting (and metal band around the cylinder), use a end cap remover (part No. 324598) or an equivalent span-
backup wrench to prevent the adaptor fitting from un- ner wrench. Then remove and discard the O-ring and
screwing from the tilt cylinder. Discard the four line fitting backup ring (50 and 5 1, Figure 44) from each end cap.
O-rings. 14. Carefully pry the wiper (49, Figure 44) from each end
4. Slide the tilt cylinder lower pivot pin (29, Figure 44) cap. Discard the wipers. Then pull the quad ring (48,
from the manifold and tilt cylinder. Remove the tilt cylin- Figure 44) from each end cap bore using a suitable hooked
der from the manifold. Then remove the two lower tilt tool. Do not damage the quad-ring bore (in each end cap)
cylinder bushings (52, Figure 44). Tilt cylinder disassem- during removal. Discard the quad rings.
bly is covered in the next section. 15. Pull both trim rams from their bores. Remove and
5. Remove the three screws and washers (40, Figure 44) discard the seal from the groove of each trim ram's piston. 1
securing the reservoir to the manifold assembly. Remove 16. Reach into each trimram's sleeve (44, Figure 44) and
the reservoir from the manifold, then discard the reservoir pry each sleeve from the manifold with the trim sleeve
O-ring. remover (part No. 325065) or an equivalent tool. Wiggle
6. Remove the three hex head screws, lockwasher and flat the top of each sleeve while prying with the remover to
washers securing the plate (37, Figure 44) to the manifold. help the sleeve slide out of its bore.
Lift the plate from the manifold, then remove the filter (35) 17. Remove and discard the O-ring and backup ring (42
from the plate. Clean the filter in a mild solvent. If the filter and 43, Figure 44) from each sleeve.
cannot be satisfactorily cleaned, discard it. 18. Clean and inspect all components as described later in
7. Remove the filter valve assembly (36, Figure 44) as this chapter. Make sure each cartridge style check valve is
follows: pressure tested as specified.
a. Thread one of the plate screws (38, Figure 44) into
the valve seat. Then pull the valve seat from the
manifold. Discard the seat and its O-ring.
lilt cylinder disassembly 1
b. Remove the check ball from the filter valve bore. If the tilt cylinder bore is scored or damaged, replace the
8. Remove the trim UP relief valve assembly (33, Figure tilt cylinder as an assembly. To disassemble the tilt cylin-
44) as follows: der, refer to Figure 44 and proceed as follows:
a. Remove the spring. Then pull the valve core from 1. Clamp the lower end of the tilt cylinder in a soft-jawed
the manifold. If the valve core tip is damaged, the vise. Do not clamp above the bushing area or the cylinder
core must be replaced. will be crushed.
b. Remove the valve seat with a suitablepair of expand- 2. Remove the cylinder end cap (63, Figure 44) with a
ing pliers. Do not damage or distort the seat. Remove suitable spanner wrench, such as part No. 326485 or part
and discard the seat's O-ring. No. 912084. Once the end cap is completely unthreaded
9. Remove the W t i l t separation valve (26, Figure 44) from the cylinder, pull the rod, end cap and piston assembly
from the port, lower end of the manifold with a drag link from the cylinder bore.
socket (or large screwdriver). Remove and discard the 3. If the top of the cylinder is equipped with an adaptor
valve's two O-rings. This check valve is longer than all fitting and a steel band, remove the adaptor fitting. Slide
CHAPTER TEN
the steel band from the cylinder. Then remove and discard 4. Inspect the manual release valve, mter valve and all
the O-ring located between the adaptor and tilt cylinder. other check valve bores for scoring, scratches, nicks,
4. Slide the end cap up against the rod eye. Using two grooves or corrosion damage that would affect their seal-
holding blocks part No. 983213 (or equivalent aluminum ing. Make sure the manual release valve threads in the
blocks), clamp the cylinder rod in a vise with the piston manifold are not damaged, corroded, worn or galled.
end facing straight up. Then carefully remove the nut (57, 5. Inspect all valve cores, check balls and valve seats for
Figure 44) from the rod. wear, corrosion or damage that would affect their sealing.
5. Lift the washer (58, Figure 44) off of the piston. Re- Replace all worn or damaged components.
move the four springs, spring guides and check balls from 6. Inspect the pump control piston springs. Replace the
the piston. These components make up the impact relief springs if they are corroded, damaged or collapsed.
valves. Place these valve components in a plastic bag that 7. Inspect the tilt piston (61, Figure 44) and the trim rams
is properly marked. (46) for wear, scratches or grooves on their outer diame-
6. Slide the piston from the rod. Remove and discard the ters. Inspect each of the tilt piston's four valve seats for
piston-to-rod O-ring (59, Figure 44), then remove and wear, indentations, debris or any other damage that would
discard the O-ring (60) from the groove on the piston outer affect their sealing ability.
diameter. 8. Inspect the impact relief valve components for wear,
corrosion, mechanical damage and collapsed or distorted
7. Slide the end cap from the rod. Remove and discard the
springs.
end cap's external O-ring (62, Figure 44).
9. Inspect the tilt cylinder rod and trim ram rods for wear,
8. Carefully pry the wiper (65, Figure 44) from the end scoring, grooving or any other damage. Remove all thread-
cap. Discard the wiper. Then pull the O-ring (64, Figure locking adhesive from the tilt cylinder rod's threads.
44) from the end cap bore using a suitable hooked tool. Do 10. Inspect the end cap threads for corroded, worn, dam-
not damage the O-ring bore (in the end cap) during re- aged, missing or galled threads. Inspect the end cap's seal
moval. Discard the O-ring. and scraper bores for nicks and gouge.
9. Clean and inspect all components as described in the 11. Inspect the O-ring groove(s) in all components for
next section. nicks, gouges, wear, corrosion or any damage.
12. Pressure test each cartridge style check valve to 30 psi
(207 kPa) as described in this chapter:
Manifold, him rams and
tilt cylinder cleaning and inspection
Tilt cylinder reassembly
Use lint-free shop towels to handle all cleaned compo-
nents. Even a single strand of lint can cause a check ball Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. Install all new
or valve not to seat. Leaking valves will cause a hydraulic O-rings and seals during the assembly procedure. Do not
malfunction. make any dry assemblies. Lubricate all internal compo-
nents with OMC Power TrimfTilt and Steering Fluid or
NOTE Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid. Do not use any
Do not attempt to blow dry small compo- type of grease on any internal components.
nents such as check balls and springs. They
are easily lost. NOTE
Cleanliness is the greatest concern during
1. Wash all componentsin a mild solvent, such as mineral assembly. Do not allow any dirt, debris, lint
spirits. Blow the larger parts dry with compressed air. or any other foreign substance into the tilt
Allow the smaller components to air dry on a clean shop cylinder during the assembly procedure. The
towel. system cannot function properly if it is con-
taminated.
2. Inspect the tilt cylinder bore for corrosion, scoring and
grooving. Very light superficial scuffing is acceptable. 1. Assemble the end cap as follows:
Inspect the cylinder bore threadsfor corroded, worn, dam- a. Lubricate and install a new O-ring (64, Figure 44)
aged, missing or galled threads. into the end cap's internal groove. Make sure the
3. Inspect the trim ram sleeve bores for corrosion, scoring O-ring is fully expanded to the groove.
and grooving. Very light (superficial) scuffing is accept- b. Lubricate a new wiper (65, Figure 44) and install it
able. Inspect the O-ring groove in each sleeve's outer into the end cap's external bore with the lip facing
diameter for damage, distortion or any nicks or burrs that up (away from the cylinder). Press the wiper into the
would prevent sealing. end cap until it is seated.
c. Lubricate a new O-ring (62, Figure 44) and install Manifold and cylinder assembly
it into the end cap's external groove.
Refer to Figure 44 for this procedure. Install all new
2. Clamp the eye end of the rod (66, Figure 44) into a
O-rings and seals during the assembly procedure. Do not
soft-jawed vise. The threaded end of the rod must face
straight up. Lubricate the rod, then position a seal protec- make any dry assemblies. Lubricate all internal compo-
tor, such as part No. 326005 over the threaded end of the nents with OMC Power Trim/Tilt and Steering fluid or
rod. Dexron 11 automatic transmission fluid. Do not use any
type of grease on any internal components.
3. Carefully slide the end cap over the seal protector and
onto the rod, being careful not to damage the end cap seals NOTE
in the process. The threaded end of the end cap must face Cleanliness is the greatest concern during
the threaded end of the rod. Then remove the seal protector. assembly. Do not allow any dirt, debris, lint
4. Slide the piston (61, Figure 44) over the threaded end or any otherforeign substance into the mani-
of the rod and up against the rod's shoulder. The side of fold during the assembly procedure. The sys-
tem cannot function properly if it is
the piston with the larger valve openings must face toward
contaminated.
the threaded end of the rod.
5. Lubricate a new piston-to-rod O-ring (59, Figure 44) 1. Assemble and install both trim ram sleeves as follows:
and install it over the threaded end of the rod and against a. Lubricate and install a new backup ring into the
the piston. groove at the bottom of each sleeve. Position the ring
6. Install the four impact relief check balls, spring guides at the top of the groove.
(small end facing up) and springs (in that order) into the b. Lubricate and install a new O-ring into the groove at
piston bores. the bottom of each sleeve. The O-ring must be below
the backup ring (closest to the lower end of the
7. Position the washer (58, Figure 44) over the threaded sleeve).
end of the rod and up against the springs. Lightly coat the
rod threads with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive, NOTE
then install and tighten the nut (57) to 58-87 ft.-lb. (78.6- If the backup ring does notfit tightly against
118.0 N-m). the bottom of each sleeve's groove, hold the
8. Lubricate a new O-ring (60, Figure 44) and install it ring(s) in your hand and overlap the ends of
into the groove in the outer diameter of the piston. the ring, temporarily reducing the effective
diameter of the ring. Reduce diameter until
9. Clamp the lower end of the tilt cylinder in a soft-jawed the ring is approximately 75 percent of the
vise. Do not clamp above the bushing area or the cylinder sleeve's diameter Hold the ring in this posi-
will be crushed. The open cylinder bore must face straight tion for a fao minutes and allow it to take a
UP. set. Then carefully install the ring into the
10. Lubricate the cylinder bore and piston liberally. Care- sleeve groove, being careful not to expand it
further than necessary.
fully insert the piston and rod assembly into the bore. Once
the tapered edge of the cylinder wall is reached, apply a c. Lubricate the manifold bores, then install both
steady downward pressure to the rod eye, while wiggling sleeves into the manifold and seat them in their
the eye in a circular motion. Be patient and allow the bores. Be careful not to pinch the O-ring andlor
O-ring to work past the taper and into the cylinder bore. backup ring between the manifold and sleeve. The
11. Once past the tapered wall, push the piston as far as sleeves must be seated in their bores in order for
possible into the bore while still allowing enough space there to be room for end cap installation.
between the end cap and cylinder to fill the cylinder with 2. Assemble both trim rams and their end caps as follows:
fluid. Then thread the end cap into the cylinder bore two a. Lubricate and install a new quad ring (48, Figure
to three turns. Do not tighten the end cap at this time. 44) into each end cap's internal groove. Make sure
12. If equipped with an adaptor fitting and metal band at the ring is fully expanded into the groove.
the top of the tilt cylinder, lubricate a new O-ring and b. Lubricate and install a new wiper (49, Figure 44)
install it into the adaptor fitting. Position the metal band into each end cap's external bore with the lip facing
over the top of the cylinder and align it with the hole in the away from the end cap. Press each wiper into its end
top of the cylinder. Carefully thread the adaptor fitting (and cap until it is seated.
O-ring) through the band and into the cylinder's hole. c. Lubricate and install a new O-ring (50, Figure 44)
Tighten the adaptor fitting securely. into each end cap's external groove.
CHAPTER TEN
d. Lubricate and install a new backup ring (51, Figure 8. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the pump
44) into each end cap's external groove. The backup control piston groove. Then install a spring into each end
ring must be above the O-ring (furthest from the end of the pump control piston.
cap threads). 9. Carefully install the pump control piston assembly into
e. Lubricate both trim rams, then slide an end cap over the reverse lock check valve bore. This is the check valve
each rod. The threaded end of each cap must face the bore on the port rear comer of the manifold, right next to
piston. Seat each end cap against its piston. the port trim ram. Make sure the springs are not displaced
f. Lubricate and install a new seal (45, Figure 44) into in the process. Seat the piston into the bore.
the groove in the outer diameter of each trim ram 10. Lubricate two new O-rings and install them onto the
piston. reverse lock check valve (21, Figure 44). Install the check
3. Lubricate both trim ram sleeves and both trim ram valve into its bore (over the pump control piston). Tighten
pistons liberally. Carefully insert each trim ram piston into the check valve to 50-60 in.-lb. (5.7-6.8 N-m).
its respective sleeve. Once each piston has entered its 11. Lubricate four new O-rings and install them onto the
sleeve, thread each end cap two to three turns into the tilt and trim check valves. Install the check valves into the
manifold, then push both trim rams to the bottom of their bores on the transom side of the manifold. The trim check
bores. valve goes into the hole opposing the reverse lock check
4. Unthread both end caps and remove them from the valve and pump control piston. Tighten both check valves
manifold but do not remove the trim rams. Fill both trim to 50-60 in.-lb. (5.7-6.8 N.m).
ram bores with trim and tilt fluid to the top of the sleeves 12. Position the manifold so that the reservoir and electric
(44, Figure 44). This will greatly reduce the bleed time motor mounting pads are pointing straight up.
and ensure the system does not air lock. 13. Place the filter valve check ball into its manifold bore.
This is the hole closest to the starboard trim ram.
N r n
Zfthe backup ring does notfit tightly against 14. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the groove
the bottom of each end cap groove, hold the of a new filter valve seat. Install the valve seat into its bore
ring(s) in your hand and overlap the ends of over the check ball. Push the valve seat into the manifold
the ring, temporarily reducing the effective until it is seated.
diameter of the ring. Reduce diameter until 15. Install the trim UP relief valve (33, Figure 44) as
the ring is approximately 75% of the end cap .follows:
diametel: Hold the ring in this position for a
a. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the valve
few minutes and allow it to take a set. Then
carefully install the ring into the end cap seat's groove.
groove, being careful not to expand itfurther b. Install the valve seat into its manifold bore (same
than necessary. side as the filter valve). Push the valve seat into the
manifold until it is seated.
5. Reinstall both end caps and thread them fully into the c. Lubricate the valve core and place it into the valve
manifold. Make sure the backup ring is not pinched be- seat.
tween the end cap and manifold. Then tighten both end d. Install the spring into the valve core.
caps to 55-60 ft.-lb. (74.6-81.3 N.m) using end cap re-
mover (part No. 324958) or an equivalent spanner wrench.
6. Install the manual release valve as follows:
a. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the groove
in the manual release valve body.
b. Install the valve into the manifold and tighten it to
45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2 N-m).
c. Install the retaining ring (30, Figure 44) using a
suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers. Make sure
the ring has fully expanded into its groove.
7. Lubricate two new O-rings and install them onto the
trim/tilt separation check valve (26, Figure 44). This is the
longest check valve cartridge. Install the check valve into
the bore at the lower, port comer of the manifold and
tighten it to 50-60 in.-lb. (5.7-6.8 N-m).
16. Install the filter (35, Figure 44) into the plate (37). FasBak System
Then carefully position the plate and filter over the filter
valve seat and the trim UP relief valve. Many of the screws on this system are Posidriv screws.
17. Secure the plate (37, Figure 44) with three screws, These look very similar to Phillips screws, but are not the
lockwashers and flat washers. Tighten the screws finger- same. Use the correct screwdriver (Posidriv or Phillips) as
tight, then evenly tighten the screws to 25-30 in.-lb. (2.8- required. The screw andlor screwdriver will be quickly
3.4 N.m) in a minimum of three progressive stages. The damaged if the incorrect tool is used.
plate must be pulled evenly against the manifold or it will
be damaged.
System removaUinstallQtion
18. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it on the reservoir
(39, Figure 44). Carefully position the reservoir to the 1. Note the position of the trim limit rod (A, Figure 45),
manifold, being careful not to displace the O-ring. Secure then remove the rod from the stem brackets.
the reservoir with three screws and washers. Tighten the 2. Tilt the outboard motor to the fully UP position and
screws evenly and securely. engage the tilt lock, support the gearcase with a hoist or
19. Grease the bushings (52, Figure 44) and install them block the gearcase to eliminate any possibility of it falling
into the lower end of the tilt cylinder. during this procedure. If necessary use the manual release
20. Grease the tilt cylinder lower pivot pin (29, Figure valve to accomplish this.
44). Position the tilt cylinder into the manifold recess and 3. Remove the snap rings from both ends of the upper
align the holes, then slide the pivot pin into the manifold pivot pin (Figure 46) using a suitable pair of external snap
and through the tilt cylinder. The top line fitting must point ring pliers. Push the pivot pin from the swivel bracket and
to starboard when the cylinder is installed. tilt cylinder eye using a suitable punch and hammer.
21. Lubricate four new line fitting O-rings and install 4. If the unit is to be disassembled, relieve the system's
them onto each line fitting (53 and 55, Figure 44). Install internal pressure as follows:
both lines and tighten all four fittings hand tight. Once all a. If the rams are not all completely extended, operate
four fittings are hand tightened, tighten all four fittings to the unit in the UP direction until all three rams are
168-216in.-lb. (19.0-24.4 N-m). If equipped with an adap- fully extended.
tor fitting on the top end of the tilt cylinder, hold the b. Briefly bump the trim switch in the DOWN direc-
adaptor fitting with a backup wrench while tightening the tion. The motor must run only briefly in the DOWN
line fitting. direction. This will help relieve internal pressure.
22. Unthread the tilt cylinder end cap (63, Figure 44) and c. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts
fill the cylinder bore with trim and tilt fluid until the fluid its retaining ring.
is level with the top line's fitting. d. Cover the reservoir fill plug with a shop towel and
23. Thread the end cap into the cylinder bore as far as carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing
possible by hand, then tighten the end cap to 18-21 ft.-lb. any internal pressure to vent before fully removing
(24.4-28.5 N-m) using a suitable spanner wrench, such as the plug. It is normal for fluid to vent from the
part No. 326485 or part No. 912084. reservoir.
24. Install the hydraulic pump, then the electric motor, as e. Reinstall the fill plug and close the manual release
described previously in this chapter. valve to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
NOTE
Because the electric motol; tilt limit switch,
trim sending unit and ground lead are all
encapsulated in a braided sleeve, it is neces-
sary to disconnect all of these components
from the power head in order to remove the
power trim and tilt unit.
5. Follow the two tilt limit switch leads from the switch
(A, Figure 38) and into the lower cowl until their bullet
connectors are located. Disconnect the two tilt limit switch
leads at their bullet connectors. Both leads are bluelwhite.
6. Disconnect the trim sending unit at its two-pin Arnphe-
no1 connector. The leads are whiteltan and black (or
CHAPTER TEN
blackltan). Then disconnect the ground (green) lead at its See B, Figure 45. Make sure each ring is fully seated in
bullet connector. its groove.
7. Disconnect the electric motor leads as follows: 17. Grease the upper pivot pin. Align the tilt cylinder rod
a. Separatethe large two-pin connector (blue and green eye with the swivel bracket bore, then install the pin. Install
leads). Remove and discard the O-ring from the a retaining ring onto each end of the pivot pin using a
connector body on the electric motor side. suitable pair of external snap ring pliers. See Figure 46.
b. Carefully remove the rubber grommet from the rear Make sure each ring is fully seated in its groove.
of the connector body on the electric motor side. 18. Install the trim limit rod into the set of stem bracket
Note the location of the blue and green leads in the holes noted on removal. See A, Figure 45.
connector body. 19. Insert the electric motor (blue and green) leads into
c. Using a small screwdriver, depress the tab locking the braided sleeve containing the tilt limit switch and trim
each terminal into the connector body, then pull each sending unit leads.
terminal from the connector body. 20. Route the braided sleeve and all electrical leads
8. Note the routing of the electric motor, tilt limit switch through the hole in the lower cowl. Clamp andlor tie-strap
and trim limit switch leads and the position of any clamps the leads as noted on removal. Reconnect the tilt limit
and tie-straps. Then remove any clamps and tie-straps switch and trim sending unit leads as follows:
securing the leads and pull the leads free from the lower a. Connect the tilt limit switch bluetwhite leads to their
cowl as an assembly. engine harness mates.
9. Pull the electric motor wires (blue and green) free from b. Connect the trim sending unit two-pin Amphenol
the braided sleeve and through the hole in the port stern connector to its engine harness mate. The leads are
bracket. whiteltan and black (or blackltan). Then connect the
10. Remove the screw securing the ground strap to the ground (green) lead bullet connector to its engine
power trim and tilt unit's electric motor. Remove the harness mate (black lead).
ground strap from the electric motor, then reinstall the 21. Connect the electric motor (blue and green) leads as
screw to prevent misplacement. follows:
11. Remove the snap rings from both ends of the lower a. Insert each terminal (and lead) into the large two-pin
pivot pin (B, Figure 45) using a suitable pair of external connector body. Make sure the leads are reinstalled
snap ring pliers. Push the pivot pin from the swivel bracket in their original location. The blue lead must connect
and the trim and tilt unit using a suitable punch and to blue and the green lead must connect to green.
hammer. b. Make sure each terminal locks into place.
12. Pivot the power trim and tilt unit rearward and out of c. Once the terminals are locked in place, push the
the stem brackets, top first. Place the unit on a clean grommet into the rear of the connector body.
workbench. d. Grease a new O-ring and install it into the connector
13. Remove the two bushings (13, Figure 47) from the tilt body's groove.
cylinder's rod eye and the two bushings (22) from the e. Connect the large two-pin connector to its engine
lower pivot pin bore in the main housing. harness mate. Make sure the bodies have locked
together.
NOTE 22. If the manual release valve is open, turn it clockwise
Use OMC Triple Guard Greasefor all grease until it is closed, then tighten it to 45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2
applications. N-m).
14. To install the power trim and tilt unit, begin by greas- 23. Release the tilt lock, remove the hoist or remove the
ing the four bushings. Install two bushings into the tilt blocks. Refer to Maintenance, in this chapter and perform
cylinder rod eye and two bushings into the lower pivot pin the Reservoirfluid check.
bore of the power trim and tilt unit.
15. Position the trim and tilt unit into the stern bracket. Electric motor removaUinstallation
Insert the bottom of the unit first, then rotate the top of the
unit into the stern brackets. Route the electrical leads Refer to Figure 47 for this procedure. Lubricate all
through the hole in the stem bracket before the unit fully internal components with OMC Power Trim/Tilt and
enters the stem brackets. Steering Fluid or Dexron 11automatic transmission fluid.
16. Grease the lower pivot pin. Align the holes and install 1. Remove the power trim and tilt unit as described in the
the pivot pin through the stern brackets and the power trim previous section.
and tilt unit. Install a retaining ring onto each end of the 2. Open the manual release valve until it just contacts its
pivot pin using a suitable pair of external snap ring pliers. retaining ring.
FASTRAK SYSTEM
1. Electric motor and

lead assembly
2. Screw and washer
3. Cable clamp and screw
4. 0-rlng
5. Fllter
6. Pump drive coupler
7. Long screw
8. Short screw
9. Pump and
manlfoldassembly
11. Retainlng ring
12. Retaining ring
13. Pivot pin bushing
14. Upper pivot pin
15. Rod and eye
17. Piston assembly
18. Washer
19. Nut
20. Maln housing
21. Lower pivot pin
23. Retaining ring
24. Pipe plug
25. Filter
26. Thrust pad
27. Trim ram end cap
28. Rim ram
29. Reservoir
30. Screw
31. Fill plug and O-ring
CHAPTER TEN
3. Cover the reservoir fill plug with a shop towel and Pump assembly renvovaUinstaIhtbn
carefully and slowly remove the fill plug, allowing any
internal pressure to vent before fully removing the plug. The pump and valve body is serviced only as an assem-
4. Reinstall the fdl plug and closethe manual release valve bly. Do not attempt to disassemble and reassemble any
to prevent fluid loss and contamination. portion of the pump assembly (9, Figure 47) other than the
manual release valve (10). If the pump assembly is to be
NOTE reused, it must be washed only in clean trim and tilt fluid.
Use caution during system disassembly, as Replace an O-ring that has been removed and replace any
there still may be residual pressure in the damaged or worn components.
system. During disassembly, cover each Different manual release valves incorporating the tilt
component with a shop towel and slowly
relieflthermal expansion valve are used to provide the
loosen the component andlor its fasteners,
allowing any internulpressureto vent before correct operating pressures for the different weight and
fully removing the component. thrust of the various engines.
The manual release valve for V4 models must have a
5. Remove the four screws and washers (2, Figure 47) groove in its outer face. The manual release valve for V6
securing the motor to the pump assembly. models must not have a groove in its outer face. If neces-
6. Remove the motor from the manifold. Remove and sary, discard the valve and replace it with the correct valve.
discard the motor O-ring (4, Figure 47). Locate and secure Refer to Figure 47 for this procedure. Lubricate all
the pump drive coupler (6, Figure 47). internal components with OMC Power TrimITilt and
7. Remove the filter (5, Figure 47) from the top of the Steering Fluid or Dexron 11 automatic transmission fluid.
hydraulic pump. Clean the filter in a mild solvent. If the 1. Remove the electric motor as described in the previous
filter cannot be satisfactorily cleaned, discard it. section.
8. To install the electric motor, begin by installing the
NOTE
filter over the hydraulic pump. Then insert the pump drive The white nylon seal rings on the manual
coupler into the hydraulic pump. release valve are not replaceable. If &m-
9. Prime the hydraulic pump as follows: aged, replace the manual release valve.
a. Fill the hydraulic pump cavity with the recom-
mended trim and tilt fluid until it is flush with the 2. Remove the manual release valve's retaining ring (11,
electric motor mounting deck and the pump is sub- Figure 47) with a suitable pair of internal snap ring pliers.
merged. Then remove the manual release valve from the manifold.
b. Rotate the pump drive coupler back and forth until Remove and discard the valve's O-ring.
all air bubbles are eliminated. If no resistance is felt, 3. Remove the two long screws and lockwashers (7, Fig-
the pump is &-locked. ure 47) and one short screw and lockwasher (8) securing
the pump assembly (9) to the main housing (20).
c. If the pump is &-locked, remove the fiiter and
depress the two check balls in the openings in the 4. Carefully pull the pump assembly from the main hous-
top of the pump. Then rotate the drive shaft again. A ing. Remove and discard the five O-rings sealing the pump
noticeable increase in effort will occur when the to the housing.
pump begins drawing fluid. Reinstall the filter once 5. To install the pump, begin by lubricating and installing
the pump is primed. five new O-rings into the grooves on the main housing-to-
pump assembly mating surface.
d. Add fluid as necessary to keep the pump submerged.
6. Carefully position the pump assembly to the main
10. Once the pump is primed, install a new O-ring onto housing, being careful not to displace any of the O-rings.
the electric motor. Lubricate the O-ring with the trim and Make sure the mounting screw holes are aligned, then
tilt fluid. install mounting screws.
11. Position the motor on the manifold assembly. Rotate 7. Tighten the screws finger-tight, then evenly tighten the
the motor as necessary to engage the pump drive coupler, screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m) in a minimum of three
then seat the motor to the cylinder and manifold assembly. progressive stages. The pump must be pulled evenly
Make sure the O-ring is not displaced during the assembly. against the housing or it will be damaged.
12. Secure the motor with four screws and washers. 8A. V4 models-Verify that the manual release valve has
Evenly tighten the screws to 35-52 in.-lb. (4.0-5.9 N-m). a groove in its face (Figure 48), then lubricate a new
13. Install the power trim and tilt unit as described in the O-ring and install it in the valve's O-ring groove (not the
previous section. identification groove). Lubricate the two nylon seal rings,
install the valve into its bore. Tighten it to 45-55 in.-lb. new O-rings and seals during the assembly procedure. If
(5.1-6.2 N.m). the tilt cylinder or either trim ram bore is scored or dam-
8B. V6 models-Verify that the manual release does not aged, the system must be replaced as an assembly.
have a groove in its face as shown in Figure 48, then 1. Remove the pump assembly as described in this chapter.
lubricate a new O-ring and install it in the valve's O-ring 2. Remove the three screws (30, Figure 47) securing the
groove (not the identification groove). Lubricate the two reservoir (29) to the main housing. Remove the reservoir
nylon seal rings, then install the valve into its bore. Tighten from the manifold, then discard the reservoir O-ring.
it to 45-55 in.-lb. (5.1-6.2 N-m).
3. Remove the fill plug (31, Figure 47).
9. Install the retaining ring (11,Figure 47) using a suitable
pair of internal snap ring pliers. Make sure the ring has 4. Remove the pipe plug (24, Figure 47) with a suitable
fully expanded into its groove. Allen wrench. Remove and discard the O-ring from the
10. Install the electric motor as described in this chapter. groove in the plug.
5. Remove the filter (25, Figure 47) from its bore. Clean
the filter in a mild solvent. If the filter cannot be satisfac-
Main housing disassembly torily cleaned, discard it.
Refer to Figure 47 for this procedure. Discard all O- 6. Fully unthread both trim ram end caps (27, Figure 47)
rings and seals removed during disassembly and install from the main housing with end cap remover (part No.
436710) or an equivalent spanner wrench.
7. Carefullypull each trim ram and end cap assembly from
the main housing. Remove the two backup rings and single
O-ring from the groove in the piston end of each t
rimram.
FASTRAK MANUAL Discard the backup ring and O-rings.
RELEASE VALVE IDENTIFICATION
8. Slideeach trimram's end cap up against the thrust pad (26,
Figure 47). Using two holding blocks part No. 983213 (or
equivalent aluminum blocks), clamp a trim ram in a vise.
I.. . . \. Then carefully unthread and remove-the thrust pad from the
trim ram.Repeat this procedure for the remaining trim ram.
9. Slide the end cap from each trim ram. Remove and
discard the external O-ring from each end cap.
10. Carefully pry the scraper from each end cap. Discard
No groove - the scrapers. Then pull the quad ring from each end cap
bore using a suitable hooked tool. Do not damage the
quad-ring bore (in each end cap) during removal. Discard
the quad rings.
11. Remove the tilt cylinder end cap (16, Figure 47) with
a suitable spanner wrench, such as part No. 326485 or part
No. 912084. Once the end cap is completely unthreaded
from the cylinder, pull the rod, end cap and piston assembly
from the cylinder bore.
12. Clamp the tilt cylinder rod eye in a vise with the piston
end facing straight up. Then carefully remove the nut (19,
Figure 47) from the rod.
13. Lift the washer (18, Figure 47) off of the piston.
Remove the four springs, spring guides and check balls
from the piston. These components make up the impact
relief valves. Place these valve components in a plastic bag
that is properly marked.
14. Slide the piston from the rod. Remove and discard the
piston-to-rod O-ring, then remove and discard the O-ring
from the groove on the piston's outer diameter.
CHAPTER TEN
15. Slide the end cap from the rod. Remove and discard threads in the manifold are not damaged, corroded, worn
the end cap's external O-ring. or galled.
16. Carefully pry the scraper from the end cap. Discard 5. Inspect the tilt piston (17, Figure 47) and the trim rams
the scraper. Then pull the O-ring from the end cap bore (28) for wear, scratches or grooves on their outer diame-
using a suitable hooked tool (such as a dental pick). Do not ters. Inspect each of the tilt piston's four valve seats for
damage the O-ring bore in the end cap during removal. wear, indentations, debris or any other damage.
Discard the O-ring. 6. Inspect the tilt cylinder rod and trim ram rods for wear,
17. Clean and inspect all components as described in the scoring, grooving or any other damage. Remove all thread-
next section. locking adhesive from the tilt cylinder rod's threads.
7. Inspect the end cap threads for corroded, worn, dam-
aged, missing or galled threads. Inspect the end cap's seal
Main housing cleaning and inspection
and scraper bores for nicks and gouges.
Use lint-free shop towels to handle all cleaned compo- 8. Inspect the O-ring groove(s) in all components for
nents. Even a single strand of lint can cause a check ball nicks, gouges, wear, corrosion or any damage.
or valve not to seat. Leaking valves will cause a hydraulic
malfunction. Main housing assembly
The tilt cylinder piston contains different relief valve
springs and the relief valve holes are of different sizes, Refer to Figure 47 for this procedure. Install all new
depending on model. Identify the pistons as follows: O-rings and seals during the assembly procedure. Do not
90" V4 and 60" V6models-The relief valve holes in the make any dry assemblies. Lubricate all internal compo-
piston must all measure 0.081 in. (2.06 mm). The impact nents with OMC Power TrirnITilt and Steering Fluid or
relief valve springs are identical, with the exception that Dexron 11 automatic transmission fluid. Do not use any
one spring is slightly shorter than the other three. If not, type of grease on any internal components.
replace the piston with the correct one.
60" V4models-The relief valve holes in the piston must NOTE
all measure 0.093 in. (2.36 rnm). The impact relief valve Cleanliness is the greatest concern during
springs are identical, with the exception that one spring is assembly. Do not allow any dirt, debris, lint
slightly shorter than the other three. If not, replace the or any otherforeign substance into the main
housing during the assemblyprocedure. The
piston with the correct one. system cannot function properly if it is con-
90" V6 models-The piston contains two large and two taminated.
small relief valve holes. The impact relief valve springs
have five coils for the two large valves and nine coils for 1. Assemble the tilt cylinder end cap as follows:
the two small valves. If not, replace the piston with the a. Lubricate and install a new O-ring into the end cap's
correct one. internal groove. Make sure the O-ring is fully ex-
panded into the groove.
NOTE b. Lubricate a new scraper and install it into the end
Do not attempt to blow dry small compo- cap's external bore with the lip facing away from the
nents such as check balls and springs. They
cylinder. Press the scraper into the end cap until it is
are easily lost.
seated.
1. Wash all componentsin a mild solvent, such as mineral c. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the end
spirits. Blow the larger parts dry with compressed air. cap's external groove.
Allow the smaller components to air dry on a clean shop 2. Clamp the eye end of the tilt cylinder rod (15, Figure
towel. 47) into a soft-jawed vise. The threaded end of the rod must
2. Inspect the tilt cylinder bore for corrosion, scoring and face straight up. Lubricate the rod, then position a seal
grooving. Very light (superficial) scuffing is acceptable. protector, such as part No. 326005 over the threaded end
Inspect the cylinder bore threads for corroded, worn, dam- of the rod.
aged, missing or galled threads. 3. Carefully slide the end cap over the seal protector and
3. Inspect the trim ram bores for corrosion, scoring and onto the rod, being careful not to damage the end cap seals
grooving. Very light (superficial) scufling is acceptable. in the process. The threaded end of the end cap must face
4. Inspect the manual release valve bore for scoring, the threaded end of the rod. Then remove the seal protector.
scratches, nicks, grooves or corrosion damage that would 4. Slide the piston (17, Figure 47) over the threaded end
affect its sealing. Make sure the manual release valve of the rod and up against the rod's shoulder. The side of the
piston with the larger valve openings must face toward the (9.5-12.2 N.m). Repeat this procedure for the remaining
threaded end of the rod. trim ram. I
5. Lubricate a new piston-to-rod O-ring and install it over
the threaded end of the rod and against the piston. NOTE
If the backup rings do not fit tightly against
6. Install the four impact relief check balls, spring guides the bottom of each trim ram piston groove,
(small end facing up), and springs (in that order) into the hold the ring(s) in your hand and overlap the
piston bores. The shorter spring may be installed in any of ends of the ring, temporarily reducing the
the four bores. eflective diameter of the ring. Reduce diame-
7. Position the washer (18, Figure 47) over the threaded ter until the ring is approximately 75%of the
end of the rod and up against the springs. Lightly coat the piston diametel: Hold the ring in this posi-
rod threads with OMC Nut Lock threadlocking adhesive, tionfor a fav minutes and allow it to take a
then install and tighten the nut (18) to 58-87 ft.-lb. (78.6- set. Then carefully install the ring into the
118.0N-m). trim ram piston groove, being carefil not to
8. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it into the groove in expand itfirther than necessary.
the outer diameter of the piston.
15. Liberally lubricate both trim ram bores and both trim
9. Clamp the main housing (20, Figure 47) in a soft-jawed ram pistons. Carefully insert each trim ram piston into its
vise. Clamp only across the lower pivot pin bore. The open respective bore. Once each piston enters its bore, thread
end of the tilt cylinder bore must face straight up. each end cap two to three turns into the main housing, then
10. Lubricate the cylinder bore and piston liberally. Care- push both trim rams to the bottom of their bores.
fully insert the piston and rod assembly into the bore. Once 16. Unthread both trim ram end caps and slide them up
the tapered edge of the cylinder wall is reached, apply a their trim ram just far enough to allow fluid to be added
steady downward pressure to the rod eye, while wigghg into the trim ram bores. Fill both trim ram bores with trim
the eye in a circular motion. Be patient and allow the and tilt fluid to the top of their bores. This will greatly
O-ring to work past the taper and into the cylinder bore. reduce the bleed time and ensure the system does not air
11. Once past the tapered wall, push the piston as far as lock.
possible into the bore while still allowing enough space 17. Rethread both trim ram end caps into the main hous-
between the end cap and cylinder to fill the cylinder with ing. Then tighten both end caps to 60-70 ft.-lb. (81.3-94.9
fluid. Then thread the end cap into the cylinder bore two
to three turns. Do not tighten the end cap at this time.
12. Assemble both trim rams and their end caps as fol-
N.m) using End Cap Remover (part No. 436710) or an
equivalent spanner wrench.
18. Position the f l e r (25, Figure 47) into its bore near the
-
-
lows: top of the tilt cylinder. Lubricate a new O-ring and install
a. Lubricate and install a new quad ring into each end it into the groove in the pipe plug (24). Install the pipe plug
cap's internal groove. Make sure the ring is fully and tighten it securely.
expanded into the groove. 19. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it in the groove on
b. Lubricate and install a new scraper into each end the reservoir-to-main housing mating surface. Carefully
cap's external bore with the lip facing up (away from position the reservoir to the main housing, being careful
the end cap). Press each scraper into its end cap until not to displace the O-ring. Secure the reservoir with three I
it is seated. screws. Evenly tighten the screws to 35-52 in.-lb. (4.0-5.9 ~
c. Lubricate and install a new O-ring into each end N-m).
cap's external groove. 20. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it onto the fill plug.
i
I
d. Lubricate both trim rams, then slide an end cap over Then install the fill plug into the reservoir and tighten it I
each rod. The threaded end of each cap must face the hand tight at this time. I
piston. Seat each end cap against its piston. 21. Unthread the tilt cylinder end cap (16, Figure 47) and I
13. Lubricate and install a new O-ring and two backup fill the cylinder bore with trim and tilt fluid until the fluid I
rings into the groove in the outer diameter of each trimram is level with the threads at the top of the cylinder bore. 1
piston. The O-ring must be sandwiched between the 22. Thread the end cap into the cylinder bore as far as I
backup rings and the open ends of the backup rings must possible by hand, then tighten the end cap to 58-87 ft.-lb.
~
I
be positioned 180" from each other. (78.6-118.0 N.m) using a suitable spanner wrench.
14. Using two holding blocks part No. 983213 (or equiva- 23. Install the pump and valve body assembly, then the I
lent aluminum blocks), clamp a trim ram in a vise. Install electric motor, as described in this chapter. Make sure the I
I
I
a thrust pad (26, Figure 47) into the threaded end of the reservoir is refilled with the recommended fluid before
trim ram. Then tighten the thrust pad to 84-108 in.-lb. attempting operation. I
524 CHAPTER TEN
Table 1 AMPERAGE SPECIFICATIONS
Conventionalsystem
Prestolite 3 in. (76.2 mm) dlameter motor
Full UP stall 3035 amps
Full DOWN stall 21-25 amps
Trimming or Tilting UP 11-15 amps
No load current draw 7 amps maxlmum
No load mlnlmum rpm 4700
Bosch 2.5 in. (63.5 mm) diameter motor
Full UP stall 30-35 amps
Mmming or Tilting UP 7-10 amps
No load current draw 4.5 amps maxlmum
Shwra 3 in. (76.2 mm) dlameter motor
Full DOWN stall 1418 amps
Trimming UP 5-8 amps
Tlltlng UP 8-10 amps
No load current draw 4.5 amps maximum
No load minimum rpm 5000
Showa 2.4 in. (61 mm) dlameter motor
Trlmming UP 7-9 amps
Tiltlrig UP 412 amps
No load current draw 4.5 amps maximum
No load minimum rprn 5000
Fashks y m
Mmming UP approxlmately 22 amps
Trimming DOWN approximately 16 amps
No load current draw 10 amps maximum
Table 2 NORMAL SYSTEM CYCLE TIMES

Conventionalsystem
Prestollte 3 In. (76.2 mm) dlameter motor
Full range UP or DOWN 15-20 seconds
Full TRIM UP range only 7-9 seconds
Full TILT UP range only 7-9 seconds
Bosch 2.5 in. (63.5 mm) dlameter motor
Full DOWN to full UP 14-16 seconds
Full UP to full DOWN 15-20 seconds
Showa 3 in. (76.2 mm) diameter motor
Full range UP or DOWN 16-18 seconds
Showa 2.4 in. (61 mm) diameter motor
Full DOWN to full UP 1416 seconds
Full UP to full DOWN 15-17 seconds
(continued)
Table 2 NORMAL SYSTEM CYCLE TIMES (continued)

FasTrak system
Full TRIM range only approximately 9 seconds
Table 8 HYDRAULIC PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS

Operational mode psi &Pal
Conventionalsystem
UP runnlng pressure approximately 200 (1379)
DOWN running pressu~ approximately 800 (5516)
Full UP stall approximately 1500 (10343)
Full DOWN stall approximately 900 (6206)
Maximum leak-down 200 psi (1379)
FasTrak system
Running pressure 0-200 (0-1379)
Full UP stall 1400-1600 (9653-11032)
Full DOWN stall approximately 800 (5516)
Maximum ieakdown 200 (1379)
Table 4 TORQUE VALUES

Fastener in.-lb. tt.-lb. N*m
Manual tilt assist cylinder
Pivot pin set screw
Mounting bracket -24-26
Power trimhilt systems
Conventionalsystem
Check valve cartridges 50-60
Electric motor Securely
Fill plug 45-50
Hydraulic line fittings 166-216
Manifold plate 25-30
Manual release valve 45-55
Oil pump 25-30
System mounting screws -
Thrust rod nuts (V8 models) -
Tilt cylinder end cap -
Tilt cylinder piston nut -
Tilt tube nut* -
Trtm ram end caps -
lklm rod thrust plate nuts -
FasTrak system
Electric motor 35-52
Manual release valve 45-55
Pump-to-main housing 60-84
Reservoir 35-52
Starboard tilt tube nur -
Tilt cylinder end cap -
Tilt cyllnder plston nut -
Trim ram end caps -
Trim rod thrust pads 84-108
Loosen 116-114 turn after torquing.
526 CHAPTER TEN
Table 5 POWER TRlM/TlLT

TROUBLESHOOTINQ (CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM)
Condition Probable cause
No trlm up or down
(motor runs fast) Sheared pump coupler Replace pump coupler.
Outboard leaks down

in the tilt range only
(reverse lock holds) Trim up relief valve lnspect andlor replace valve.
Outboard leaks down

In the tilt and trlm ranges
(reverse lock holds) Trim check valve Inspect and test valve.
Stlcking pump
control piston Clean and inspect component.
Expansion relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Trim ram@)leaking Replace O-rings and seals.
Outboard leaks down

and reverse lock falls Manual release valve Clean and inspect valve.
Impact relief valves
or tilt cyllnder piston leaking Clean, inspect andlor replace
tilt piston, O-rings and seals.
No reverse lock
(but holds in forward) Reverse lock check valve lnspect and test valve.
Sticking pump
Filter valve and seat Inspect andlor replace valve.
Broken or weak impact relief
or UP rellef valve sprlngs Inspect andlor replace tilt
cylinder piston.
Will not trimhilt up

(trlmhilts down normally) M m UP relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Thermal expansion valve Clean and inspect valve.
Pump failure Replace pump.
Wlll not trlmhilt down

(tr1mAilts up normally) Filter valve and seat lnspect andlor replace valve.
DOWN relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Pump failure Replace pump.
Unlt stuck full UP Sticking pump

Blocked thermal
expanslon valve Inspect andlor replace valve.
Mechanical binding lnspect midsection.
Sluggish operation Air In system,

low fluid level Check fluid level and
cycle unlt to remove air.
Electric motor binding Test amperage draw.
Pump assembly
worn or leaking Replace pump assembly.
Erratic operation
(jerky or jumpy motion) Air in system Check fluld level and
cycle unit to remove air.
Incompatiblefluids Drain system, flush,
add correct fluid.
Table 6 PRESSURE TEST RESULTS (CONVENTIONAL SYSTEM)

I CondMon Probable cause Solution I
Low UP stall pressure
(DOWN p r e ~ ~ u good)
re Trim UP relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Pump control piston O-ring Replace O-ring, Inspect bore.
Defective pump assembly Replace pump assembly.
I
Low DOWN stall pressure
1 (UP pressure good) Down relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Filter valve assembly Clean and inspect valve.
Pump control piston O-ring Replace O-ring, inspect bore.
Low UP and DOWN
stall pressure Leaking tilt cylinder Replace O-rings and seals.
lnspect impact valves
and cylinder bore.
Leaking trim ram@) Replace O-rings and seals.
lnspect ram bores (sleeves).
Defective pump assembly Replace pump assembly.
Excessive UP leak down

(DOWN leak down good) Trim check valve Inspect and test valve.
Trim UP relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Excessive DOWN leak down

(UP leak down good) Reverse lock check valve Inspect and test valve.
Fllter valve assembly Clean and inspect valve.
Excessive UP and DOWN

leak down Leaking tilt cylinder Replace O-rings and seals.
Inspect impact valves
and cyllnder bore.
Leaking trim ram(s) Replace O-rings and seals.
lnspect ram bores (sleeves).
Table 7 POWER TRlMmlLT TROUBLESHOOTINQ (FASTRAK SYSTEM)

CondMon Probable cause Solution
No trim up or down
(motor runs fast) Sheared pump coupler Replace pump coupler.
Outboard leaks down
(reverse lock holds) Manual release valve
O-rings or internal valve Inspect andlor replace O-rings
andlor valve.
Defective pump and manifold Replace pump and manifold.
Expansion relief valve Clean and inspect valve.
Outboard leaks down
and reverse lock fails Manual release valve
O-rings or internalvalve Inspect andlor replace O-rings
andlor valve.
Impact rellef valves or
tilt cylinder piston leaking Clean, inspect andlor replace
tilt piston, O-rlngs and seals.
Trim ram@)leaking Replace O-rings and seals.
Defective pump and manlfold Replace pump and manifold.
I (continued)
I
528 CHAPTER TEN
Table 7 POWER TRlMRlLT

TROUBLESHOOTING (FASTRAK SYSTEM) (contimued)
Condiion Probable cause Sotvti~n i
No reverse lock
(but holds in forward) Manual release valve
middle O-ring Inspect andlor replace O-ring
Broken or weak Impact relief
valve springs Inspect andlor replace tilt
cylinder piston.
Defective pump
and manlfold Replace pump and manlfold.
Will not trimAilt up
(trimhilts down normally) Defective thermal expansion Replace manual release valve
valve (in manual release valve).
I Pump and manifold failure Replace pump and manifold.
I Will not trimAilt down

(trimlts up nom*ly) Manual release valve
middle O-ring Inspect andlor replace O-ring.
Pump and manifold failure Replam pump and manifold.
Unit stuck full UP Defective thermal expansion
valve (in manual
release valve) Replace manual release valve.
Mechanical binding Inspect midsection.
Defective pump and manifold Replace pump and manifold.
I ~lugglsh
operation Air in system, low fluid level Check fluid level and
Electric motor binding Test amperage draw.
Pump worn or
leaking internally Replace pump and manifold.
II
Erratic operation
(jerky or jumpy motion) Air In system Check fluid level and
Incompatiblefluids Drain system, flush,
add correct fluid.
Table 8 PRESSURE TEST RESULTS (FASTRAK SYSTEM)

I ComWen Probable cause Solutionr I
Low UP stall pressure
(DOWN pressure good) Internal pump failure Replace pump assembly.
Leaking trim ram(s) Replace O-rings and seals.
Low DOWN stall pressure

(UP pressure good) Internal pump failure Replace pump assembly.
Low UP and
DOWN stall pressure Leaking tilt cyllnder Replace O-rings and seals.
lnspect impact valves
and cyllnder bore.
Internal pump failure Replace pump assembly.
Excessive UP leak down

(DOWN leak down good) Leaking trim ram@) Replace O-rings and seals.
Internal pump failure Replace pump assembly.
(continued)
Table 8 PRESSURE TEST RESULTS (FASTRAK SYSTEM) (continued)

Condltlon Probable cause Solutlon
I Excessive DOWN leak down

(UP leak down good)
Excessive UP and DOWN leak down

Internal pump failure
Leaking tilt cylinder

Replace pump assembly.
Replace O-rings and seals.

Inspect impact valves and cylinder bore.

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Eleven
Oil Inlection Systems
The internal power head components are lubricated by require mixing of the oil and fuel in the fuel tank as de-
mixing oil with the gasoline. On non-oil injected models, scribed previously.
the oil and gasoline must be mixtureed in the fuel tank(s) Refer to Chapter Four for fuel and oil requirements, en-
by the boat operator. The recommended Wail mixture gine break-in procedures and oil tank filling procedures.
for normal operation in all models without oil injection is Table 1 lists oil injection system specifications. Table 1
50 parts of fuel to one part of oil. This is the standard 6 gal. is located at the end of the chapter.
(22.7 L) of fuel to one pt. (473 mL) of oil.
On oil injected models, the oil is automatically mixed
Fuel and Oil Line Removal/Lnstallation
with the gasoline. An engine-mounted fuel and oil pump
delivers the correct, mixtureed fuel and oil mixture to the When removing fuel andlor oil lines from fittings, push
carburetors. the line off of the fitting whenever possible. Pulling on the
Regardless of whether the oil is mixtureed by the opera- line only tightens its grip on the fitting. Plastic fittings can
tor or automatically mixed by the injection system, the var-
ious engine components are lubricated as the fuel and oil
mixture passes through the crankcases and into the com-
bustion chambers.
The advantage of oil injection is that the operator only
has to keep the oil reservoir fdled. No calculations are re-
quired as to how much oil to add when refueling. Over (and
under) oiling from operator miscalculation is eliminated,
along with the associated engine problems caused by un-
der or over oiling.
The OMC VR02 oil injection system is standard equip-
ment on all of the engines covered in this manual except
the 88, 90, 112 and 115 Special models. These Special
models are equipped with a conventional fuel pump and
be easily damaged or broken from excessive forcing,caus- See WarningSystems in Chapter Three for warning signals,
ing unnecessary component replacement. warning system operation and warning system trou-
If necessary, cut the line with a knife and peel the line bleshooting. If the no oil signal is noted, the engine must
from the fitting. Replacing the line is always more eco- be immediately stopped and the remote oil tank's oil level
nomical than replacing a fuel or oil injection system com- checked. If the oil tank's level is satisfactory, the engine
ponent. See Fuel Lines, Primer Bulbs, Fittings and must be operated on a 50:1 fueUoil mix until the cause of
Connectors, in Chapter Six, for additional information. the warning can be determined and corrected.
The oil lines must be secured with ratchet (snapper) A 1.8 or 3 gal. (6.8 or 11.4 L) remote oil tank (F'igure
clamps or the original spring clamps (as equipped .Worm 2) supplies oil directly to the pump. The primer bulb in the
d
clamps and tie-straps must not be used on VRO system oil line is used to purge air and prime the system during
oil lines. See Chapter Six for additionalclamp information. rigging, if the oil line has been disconnected,or the oil tank
has run dry. The operator must never squeeze the oil tank's
primer bulb during normal operation.
VRo2 OIL INJECTION
(ALL MODELS EXCEPT 88, 90, 112 NOTE
AND 115 SPECIAL MODELS) Do not squeeze the oil tank's primer bulb
before starting the engine. The engine's car-
System Description buretors will become flooded with oil and
starting will be dzficult, if not impossible.
The V R O ~combination fuel and oil pump (Figure 1,
typical installation) is driven by crankcase pressure and A low-oil float switch (A, Figure 3) attached to the oil
vacuum pulses. The oil is mixed with the fuel in an internal tank's pickup assembly activatesthe low oil warning signal
mixing chamber. The output from the pump is approxi- if the oil level in the reservoir becomes low. If this occurs,
mately 50: 1 ( M o i l ) . the engine must be stopped as soon as possible and the
A no oil motion sensor located in the pump engages the reservoir refilled, or permanent power head damage will
warning system should a no oil flow condition be noted. occur when the oil tank runs dry.
A sock-type filter (B, Figure 3) attached to the picku
assembly keeps debris out of the oil lines and the VRO !
pump. The filter must be changed whenever the oil pickup
assembly is removed from the oil tank or when any major
service work is being performed on the oil injection sys-
tem.
WARNING
Continued operation of the engine when the
no oil warning has engaged will causepower
head damage.
Filling the oil tank requires first gaining access to the

remote oil tank. Then remove the fill cap and fill the tank
with the recommended outboard oil. When finished, rein-
stall the fill cap securely.
60"V4 and V6 models
The 60" V4 and V6 models use a unique fuel system

incorporating a vapor separator assembly (A, Figure 4),
fuel vapor removal pump (B), VR02 pump unit (C), fuel
vacuum switch @), fuel primer solenoid (E), fuel filter (F)
and fuel distribution manifold.
The V R O ~pump unit receives fuel from the vapor sepa-
rator and delivers the fueUoil mixture directly to the fuel
distribution manifold. The pump outlet fitting is sealed to
CHAPTER ELEVEN
the distribution manifold with two O-rings. Refer to Chap- System Operation
ter Six for a full description of the fuel system.
The VR02 combination fuevoil pump consists of four

separate operational sections, each with its unique func-
250 and 300 hp (V8)models
tion. The four sections are the air motor, fuel pump, oil
pump and no oil sensor. See Figure 5. The air motor and
The 250 and 300 hp (V8) models use two VRo2 pump fuel pump portions of the pump unit are serviceable and
units. Under normal operation, the lower pump feeds the may be individually repaired or replaced.
upper four cylinders (No. 1-4) and the upper pump feeds
On 1995 model VRo2 pump units, the oil pump inlet
the lower four cylinders (No. 5-8).However, if either pump
housing is not available separately, but the no oil sensor
should malfunction, a bypass valve connected between the
portion is. If the oil pump section is malfunctioning, the
outlet lines of both pump units will allow either pump to
VRo2 pump unit must be replaced as an assembly.
feed all eight cylinders. If this should occur, the remaining
pump will not be able to provide enough fuel to allow full On 1996-1998 model VR02 pump units, the oil pump
throttle operation, yet will allow normal operation at lower inlet housing and no oil sensor sections are only available
throttle settings. This feature allows the operator to return as a matched assembly. If either section is malfunctioning,
safely to port in the event of a single V R O ~pump unit replace both as an assembly.
malfunction. Refer to Chapter Six for a full description of
the fuel system. Refer to Figures 5-9 for the following descriptions.
@
FUEL COMPONENT BRACKET (60"V4 AND V6 MODELS)
534 CHAPTER ELEVEN
NOTE the air motor diaphragm to the fuel and oil pump sections
All descriptions of right and left movement of the VR02 pump. The air motor receives crankcase
are in relation to the operational diagram pressure and vacuum pulses from a single cylinder's crank-
shown in Figures 5-9.
case as follows:
a. V4 models-The pulse line attached to the No. 4
Air motor operation cylinder crankcase.
b. V6 models-The pulse line is attached to the No. 6
The air motor supplies the mechanical energy necess cylinder crankcase.
to operate the fuel and oil pump sections of the VRO Y
pump. A shaft, called apiston stem (8, Figure 6), connects
FUEL AND OIL PUMP

AIR MOTOR OPERATION OPERATION (INLET CYCLE)
1. Fuel inlet fitting

and check valve
2. FueUoil discharge fitting
1. Pulse line fitting 3. Fuel pump diaphragm
2. Pressure check valve and piston
3. Vacuum check valve 4. Oil pump piston
4. Plston and diaphragm and cylinder
5. Poppet valve 5. Oil inlet fitting
6. Large spring and check valve
7. Small (poppet) spring
8. Piston stem
OK INJECTION SYSTEMS 535
c. V8 models-On these models, the upper V R O ~ The pulse limiter allows normal air flow in both directions,
pump receives pulses from the No. 4 cylinder crank- but blocks abnormally high pressure pulses (spikes) from
case and the lower VR02pump receives pulses from reaching the air motor.
the No. 8 cylinder crankcase.
A pair of one-way check valves (2 and 3, Figure 6) are
A special fitting, called a pulse limiter is used to protect used to direct air flow in the air motor housing. Crankcase
the air motor from excessive crankcase pressure pulses, pressure pulses are directed to the left side of the air motor
such as those caused by a backfire in the induction system. diaphragm, while crankcase vacuum pulses are directed to
the right (spring) side of the diaphragm. This arrangement
FUEL AND OIL PUMP

NO-OIL SENSOR OPERATION
OPERATION CYCLE
1. Fuel inlet check valve 1. Electrical leads

2. Fuel diaphragm check valve 2. Microchip
3. Oil pump inlet check valve 3. Sensor switch
4. Oil pump outlet check valve 4. Plunger
5. Metered discharge orifice 5. Actuator
CHAPTER ELEVEN
causes the air motor to always be pushed or pulled to the The oil pump piston (4, Figure 7) is connected to the
right during operation. fuel pump diaphragm and the air motor by a shaft. When
The air motor continues to move to the right until the the air motor and fuel pump diaphragms are moving to the
poppet valve contacts the raised boss on the air motor right, the oil pump piston is pulled to the right with them.
cover. This opens the poppet valve (5, Figure 6), equaliz- As the oil pump piston is pulled to the right, oil is pulled
ing the pressure on both sides of the airmotor's diaphragm. from the oil tank and into the oil pump cylinder through
When the poppet valve opens, the large spring (6, Figure the oil pump inlet fitting and check valve (5, Figure 7).
6) forces the air motor to the left. When the air motor has When the air motor and fuel pump diaphragms cycle back
traveled as far as it can to the left, the poppet valve closes to the left, the oil pump piston is pushed to the left also.
and the cycle of movement to the right repeats itself. This movement closes the oil pump inlet check valve (3,
The movement to the left is abrupt and a distinctive click Figure 8) and opens the oil pump outlet check valve (4),
can be heard or felt each time the air motor cycles to the discharging the oil into the inlet side of the fuel pump
left. chamber through a metered orifice (5).
The movement of the air motor to the right is limited by Since the oil is being discharged as the fuel pump
the engine's consumption of fuel. The air motor can only diaphragm is cycling back to the left, the oil is thoroughly
move to the right as the fuel in the fuel pump section is mixed with the fuel by the movement of the diaphragm.
consumed by the engine. At idle, when fuel consumption
When the air motor and fuel pump diaphragms begin
is minimal, the air motor will move very slowly to the right
moving to the right, the oil pump piston begins anew cycle.
and will cycle at its slowest rate. At wide-open throttle,
when fuel consumption is maximal, the air motor will
move quickly to the right and will cycle at its fastest rate. No oil sensor operation
An electronic sensing s stem is incorporated into the oil

Fuelpump operation S
pump portion of the VRO pump unit. The sensing system
Refer to Figure 7 and F'igure 8 for this description. requires four leads (1, Figure 9) to operate. The four leads
The fuel pump diaphragm is connected to the air motor are black, purple, gray and tan (or tanlyellow). The leads
by the piston stem (8, Figure 6). When the air motor is are connected to the engine harness with a four-pin Am-
moving to the right, it is pulling the fuel pump diaphragm phenol connector. The four leads function as follows:
(3, Figure 7) to the right with it. The M o i l mixture on 1. Black lead-The black lead provides an electrical
the right side of the fuel pump diaphragm from the pre- ground for the sensing system. All electrical devices must
vious cycle is pushed out the fitting at the top of the pump be grounded in some manner in order to operate.
(2) and on to the carburetors.
As the fuel diaphragm is pulled to the right, straight fuel
is pulled into the inlet side of the fuel pump diaphragm
through the fuel inlet check valve and fitting (1,Figure 7).
When the air motor cycles back to the left, the fuel inlet
check valve closes, trapping the fuel. When this happens,
the check valve in the fuel pump diaphragm opens (2,
Figure 8), allowing the diaphragm to travel to the left,
transferring the fuel to the discharge side of the diaphragm.
The oil pump adds the correct amount of oil during the
cycle to the left.
Once the fuel diaphragm has reached the limit of its
travel to the left, the check valve in the diaphragm closes
and the fuevoil mix (now trapped on the right side of the
diaphragm) is pushed out the fitting at the top of the pump
as the cycle repeats itself.
Oil pump operation
Refer to Figure 7 and Figure 8 for this description.
OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS 537
, 2. Purple lead-The purple lead provides key-switched grounds the tan (or tadyellow) lead to activate the warning
battery voltage to operate the microchip and sensor in the system.
no oil sensing system.
3. Gray lead-The gray lead provides a tachometer refer-
ence signal so the sensing system can detect that the engine Disabling the Oil InjectSon Feature
is running and how fast the engine is running. At higher
If you desire to disable the oil injection feature of the
speeds, the systemmust detect more oil being injected than
VRo2 pump unit, take the following steps to prevent the
at lower speeds.
warning system from activating and to prevent contamina-
4. Tan (or tadyellow) lead-The tan (or tadyellow) lead tion from entering the V R O ~pump. contamination will
is connected to the warning system. The no oil sensing
cause premature pump failure.
system grounds the tan (or tadyellow) lead to sound the
warning horn (or activate the system check engine moni- To disable the oil injection feature, proceed as follows:
toring system). Refer to Warning Systems in Chapter Three NOTE
for additional information. Cap (partNo. 315391)and holder/plug (part
A small sensor is installed after the oil pump outlet check No. 329661) are located on afuel line near
valve (4, Figure 8)before the oil discharge metered orifice the V R pump~ unit. Use the cap and plug
(5). The sensor functions as a small electrical switch that (Figure 10) to plug the oil supply line and
closes each time it detects the pressure of the oil being cap the oil supply line fitting on the lower
discharged into the fuel pump inlet chamber. A small cowl whenever they are disconnected.
plunger (4, Figure 9) moves an actuator (5) to close the
switch (3) each time the oil pump piston discharges oil into 1A. 90" V4, V6 and V8 models-If installed, disconnect
the mixing chamber. the oil supply line from the fitting on the lower cowl. See
Figure 11, typical. Plug the line with the plug shown in
A microchip (2, Figure 9) counts the tachometer pulses Figure 10.
(from the gray lead) and determines the engine speed. The
1B. 60" V4 and V6 models-If installed, disconnect the oil
microchip must detect a switch closing signal from the
supply line as follows:
sensor by a predetermined amount of tachometer pulses
a. Remove the screw securing the cover for fuel and oil
based on engine speed. I f the microchip does not detect a
lines and the electrical leads to the front of the port
switch closing signal when it thinks it is supposed to, it lower split cowl.
b. Pull the cover (A, Figure 12) away from the lower
cowl and slide it up the lines and leads as shown in
Figure 12.
c. Disconnect the oil supply line from the fitting on the
lower cowl (B, Figure 12).Cap the line with the plug
shown in Figure 10.
2. Disconnect the oil tank electrical leads at the power
head bullet connectors, two-pin Amphenol connector or
two-pin Deutsch connector. Remove the oil tank, its supply
line and its electrical leads.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
3. Tape, sleeve or insulate the connector(s) on the power 3. Testingthe integrity of the oil supply line and oil pickup
head. assembly.
4. Seal the oil tank mounting holes with 3M Marine 4. Testing the fuel pressure output of the pump unit
sealant 101or an equivalent polysulfide sealant. 5. Verifying the correct oil consumption at the pump.
5. Cap the oil inlet fitting on the lower cowl with protec- 6. Bench testing the pump's internal componentswith the
tive cap (part No. 315391) or an equivalent cap. The seal aid of gearcase vacuum and pressure testers (such as
must be air-tight. Secure the connectionwith ratchet clamp Stevens Instruments part No. V-34 and part No. S-34).
@art No. 322654). See Figure 10 and Figure 11,typical. 7. Determining the cause of excessive oil consump-
6. Disconnect the V R O pump's
~ four-pin Amphenol con- tion/excessive exhaust smoke.
nector.
7. Install protective cover @art No. 335655) over the
engine harness side of the four-pin connector. The engine Verihing that the system is consuming oil
harness side of the connector must be sealed to prevent any
of the four leads from shorting to each other or to the power Anytime the system is serviced, perform the following
head. procedure to determine if the system is consuming oil.
8. If the protectivecover is not available,fill the Amphenol Perform this test before operating the outboard motor on
connector body on the engine harness side with enough straight gasoline.
OMC RTV black silicone sealant to completely cover and This procedure only determines whether the system is
seal all four pins. consuming oil or not; it does not venfy that the system is
9. Operate the engine on a 50:l (fueuoil) mixture at all consuming the correct amount of oil. To determine if the
times. If the engine is operated on straight gasoline, the system is consuming the correct amount of oil, refer to the
power head will be quickly destroyed. Oil consumption test in this chapter.
1. Add the correct amount of outboard oil to the fuel tank
to achieve a 50: 1 (fueUoil) mixture. Refer to Chapter Four
for additional information.
2. Fill the oil tank until it is full or mark the oil level of the
To troubleshoot any problems noted in the warning oil tank with a grease pencil. The boat must be resting in a
system, refer to Chapter Three. position that can be easily duplicated when the oil level is
If the VR02 pump unit does not mix enough oil with the rechecked.
fuel, the engine will suffer an internal failure or excessive 3. Operate the boat under normal conditions until a mini-
internalwear from the lack of proper lubrication. If the unit mum of 6 gal. (22.7 L) of fuel has been consumed.
mixes too much oil with the fuel, the engine will smoke 4. Recheck the oil tank level. If the oil level has dropped,
excessively, foul the spark plugs and build up carbon in the the system is consuming oil and the fuel tank may be filled
combustion chambers at an accelerated rate. with straight gasoline in the future. If the oil level has not
If the unit is suspected of not delivering the correct dropped, the system is not consuming oil. Refer to Oil
amount of oil with the fuel, immediately add the correct consumption test in this chapter to determine if the VR02
amount of recommended outboard motor oil to the en- pump unit is at fault.
gine's fuel tank to provide a 50: 1 W o i l mixture.
If the no oil warning sounds, yet the Oil consumption
Testing the no oil warning system
test is satisfactorily completed, check the oil tank and oil
and the pump's ability to prime itself
supply line for a blocked filter, kinked or blocked lines, or
air leaks from loose fitting, clamped or damaged lines. The followingprocedure determinesif the no oil sensing
system is functioning correctly and if the oil pump portion
NOTE
Electric fuel supply pumps are not recom- of the VR02 pump unit is capable of priming itself.
mended by OMC. If the no oil sensing function is not working correctly,
the operator will not receive a warning if the oil pump
Troubleshootingof the VR02 system is divided into the portion of the VRO' pump unit fails.
following categories. If the pump cannot prime itself, the system will fail to
1. Venfymg that the system is consuming oil. This must continue pumping oil if the oil pump pickup is momentar-
be done before beginning operation on straight gasoline. ily exposed to air. This can occur under certain conditions,
2. Testing the no oil warning system and the ability of the such as a low oil level in the oil tank and when operating
pump to prime itself. in rough water.
1. Disconnect the oil supply line from its fitting on the will purge all air andi any contaminationfrom the oil supply
lower cowl. See Figure 11or Figure 12 for typical oil line line.
connections.Plug the oil line to prevent leakage, but do not 6. Connect the oil supply line to the fitting on the lower
cap the oil line fitting. cowl. Secure the connection with a ratchet clamp. See
2. Attach a portable fuel tank with a 50: 1 fueVoil mixture Figure 11,typical. Tighten the ratchet clamp securely. Do
to the engine. NOT squeeze the oil line's primer bulb after the line is
connected to the engine.
CAUTION 7. Start the engine and run it in FORWARD gear at ap-
Do not run the engine without an adequate proximately 1500 speed.
water supply and do not exceed 3000 speed 8. The pump must purge the air in the lines between the
fitting on the lower cowl and the V R O ~ pump unit and the
Precautions at the beginning of Chapter
Three. no oil warning signal must cease in no more than 10
minutes.
3. Start the engine and run it in FORWARD gear at ap- a. If the no oil warning signal ceases in 10 minutes or
proximately 1500 speed. less, the VR02 pump unit's self priming feature is
4. Once the residual oil in the line between the fitting on working satisfactorily.Remove the portable tank and
the lower cowl and the VRo2 pump unit is consumed, the reattach the original fuel tank to the engine.
no oil warning must activate. Refer to Warning Systems in b. If the no oil warning signal does not cease operation
Chapter Three for an explanation of the warning system after 10 minutes have passed, check the oil line
signals. It may take several minutes for the residual oil to between the oil fitting on the lower cowl and the
be consumed. V R O ~pump unit for leaks, loose connections or
a. If the no oil warning does not activate after 10 restrictions. Correct any problems found. If oil line
minutes, the test has failed. Refer to Chapter Three, and connections are in satisfactory condition, re-
Warning Systems and venfy that the warning system place the oil pump and inlet housing assembly (or
is operating correctly. If the warning system is oper- the V R O ~pump unit as an assembly).
ating correctly, the oil pump and inlet housing as-
sembly (or the VR02 pump unit assembly) must be
replaced.
b. If the no oil warning activates within 10 minutes, the
Excessive oil consrrmption/excessiveexhaust s m o h
Due to the design of the VRo2 unit, any restriction in the

! I
test has passed. Proceed to Step 5. fuel supply line or any air leakage into the fuel supply line
5. Unca the oil supply line and hold it above the level of will cause the unit to pump excessiveoil to the carburetors.
eL
the VRO pump unit. Place the open end of the line in a As described under System Operation,the speed at which
suitable container, then squeeze the oil line's primer bulb the pump cycles is directly related to the fuel consumption
until raw oil is flowing from the line. See Figure 13.This of the engine.
If the fuel supply is restricted or air is leaking into the
fuel inlet fitting, the movement of the fuel pump diaphragm
will be unrestricted and the air motor will cycle at a rapid I
rate. Each time the air motor cycles, the oil pump will
dischargeoil into the inlet side of the fuel pump diaphragm.
In extreme conditions, this can result in raw oil being
pumped to the carburetors.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to run the carburetors dry on
an engine equipped with the V R system. ~
The V R pump ~ unit will continue to pump
oil to the carburetors even though nofuel is
entering thu pump. This will result in exces-
sive oil flow to the carburetors and starting
will be dificult, if not impossible.
If the pump is suspected of adding too much oil, or the

engine seems to smoke excessively, proceed as follows: I
CHAPTER ELEVEN
1. Clean or replace all fuel filters as described in Chapter pump is mixing the oil with the fuel. There is no other place
Four. for the oil to go, except for external leakage.
2. Perform the Fuel Supply (Vacuum)Test as described in
Chapter Three. Do not proceed until this test has been NOTE
satisfactorily completed. If the pump unit has been replaced on 1995
3. Perform the Oil Consumption Test (in this chapter) to models, the replacement pump will operate
venfy that the VRo2 pump unit is mixing the correct to the same specifications as the 1996-1998
amount of oil with the fuel. If the oil consumption is models.
incorrect, replace the oil pump inlet housing or the VRo2
pump unit as an assembly.
Oil consumption is referenced to the number of pump
cycles. On original 1995 model VRo2 pump units, the
Fuel Pressure Test amount of oil injected per pump cycle varies with engine
For the fuel pump portion of the VR02 pump unit to speed and load. On all other models, the pump injects the
develop the correct fuel pressure, the fuel supply must be
unrestricted and free of & leakage. To verify that the fuel
portion of the VRo2 pump unit is functioning correct1y,
proceed as follows:
1. Refer to Chapter Three and perform the Fuel Supply
(Vacuum)Test.
2. Perform the Fuel Pump Output Test as described in
Chapter Three. On V8 models, make sure the fuel pump
output test is performed on both VRo2 pump units.
a. If the fuel pump output pressure is at least 3 psi (20.7
kPa) at 800 speed,the fuel pump portion of the VRo2
pump unit is working correctly.
b. If the fuel pressure output is low, proceed to Step 3.
NOTE
I f the cylinder that drives the V R pump
~
fails, the -pump
- cannot operate. Check the
cranking compression before continuing.
3. If low or no fuel pressure is obsemed in Step 2, proceed

as follows:
a. Verify the mechanical integrity of the power head by
checking the cranking compression as described in
Chapter Four. The cylinder that drives the VRo2
pump must be in good mechanical condition.
b. Check the pulse line from the crankcase fitting to the
VRo2 pump unit for leaks, kinks, obstructions or
loose connections. Correct any problems found.
c. If the pulse line is in satisfactory condition, replace
or clean the pulse limiter as described later in this
chapter.
d. perform the VRo2pump unit ~ e n c test h as described
in this chapter.
Oil consumption tests
This test determines if the oil injection portion of the

VRO2 pump unit is consuming the correct amount of oil.
If the pump is consuming oil, it can be assumed that the
same amount of oil per pump cycle, regardless of engine 2. Start the motor and allow it to warm to operating
speed and load. temperature. Then turn the motor off.
It is imperative that you are able to detect each cycle of 3A. V4 and V6 models-Disconnect the oil supply line
the pump. This can be done by listening for the audible from the VRo2 pump unit's fitting (C, Figure 14). Plug
click, placing your hand on the air motor housing and the line to prevent contamination. On 60" models, remove
feeling the pump cycle or installing a fuel pressure gauge the air intake cover to gain access to the oil supply line
to the fuel outlet fitting and observing the fuel pressure connection at the pump unit (Figure 15).
fluctuations. 3B. V8 models-Disconnect the oil supply line from the
The fuel pressure gauge is the most accurate way to lower VRo2 pump unit's fitting (C, Figure 14). Plug the
measure pump cycles, as each time the pump cycles, fuel line to prevent contamination.
pressure will momentarily drop. Refer to Fuel System 4. Obtain a 10 in. (254 mm) length of 114 in. (6.35 mm)
Troubleshooting in Chapter Three for fuel pressure gauge diameter clear vinyl hose. At one end of the hose, place
installation procedures. marks every 112in. (12.7 rnrn) for at least 3 in. (76.2 mm).
1A. 1995 models-Remove the standard propeller and Measure carefully and make sure the marks are accurate.
install the recommended test wheel (Chapter Five). A test 5. Attach the unmarked end of the hose to the injection
wheel is necessary since the engine must be run at 800 pump inlet fitting. See Figure 16. Secure the connection
speed and wide-open throttle as part of the oil consumption with a tie-strap. Position the hose so that the marked area
test. and the open end are pointing straight up as shown in
1B. 1996-1998 models-The engine must be operated at Figure 16. If working alone, tie-strap the hose to the power
1500 speed in FORWARD gear for the following proce- head to keep it properly positioned.
dure. The standard propeller may be used if the boat is 6. Fill the vinyl hose with the recommended outboard oil
backed into the water on its trailer or if the boat is securely (Chapter Four). Start the motor and operate it at idle speed
tied to a sturdy dock. If not, remove the standard propeller long enough to purge any air from the hose. Then stop the
and install the recommended test wheel (Chapter Five). motor and refill the vinyl hose with outboard oil.
7A. 1995 models-Proceed as follows:
CAUTION a. Start the engine and operate it at 800 speed in FOR-
Do not run the engine without an adequate WARD gear. Observe the oil level in the vinyl hose
water supply and do not exceed 3000 speed while monitoring the pump cycles in one of the
without an adequate load. Refer to Safety manners described previously. The oil level must
Precautions at the beginning of Chapter drop 1 in. (25.4 mm) in four t i six pump cycles (V4
Three. models) or six to eight pump cycles (V6 and V8
models).
b. Stop the engine and refill the vinyl hose with out-
board oil.
c. Start the engine and operate it at wide-open throttle
in FORWARD gear. Observethe oil level in the vinyl
hose while monitoring the pump cycles in one of the
manners described previously. The oil level must
drop 1 in. (25.4 mm) in two to four pump cycles.
7B. 1996-1998 rnodelsStart the engine and operate it at
1500 speed in FORWARD gear. Observe the oil level in
the vinyl hose while monitoring the pump cycles in one of
the manners described previously. The oil level must drop
3 in. (76.2 mm)in six to eight pump cycles.
8A. If the oil consumption is not as specified, proceed as
follows:
a. Venfy the mechanical integrity of the power head by
checking the cranking compression as described in
Chapter Four. The cylinder that drives the V R O ~
pump must be in good mechanical condition.
b. Check the pulse line from the crankcasefitting to the
VRo2 pump unit for leaks, kinks, obstructions or
loose connections. Correct any problems found.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
c. If the pulse line is in satisfactory condition, replace ton and diaphragm kit). Then repeat the bench test
or clean the pulse limiter as described later in this procedure.
chapter. b. If the pump does not click, proceed to Step 4.
d. If all checks are satisfactory to this point, yet the 3B. Tester leaks down-If the tester indicates leakage,
oil consumption is incorrect replace the inlet slowly pump the gearcase tester and inspect for an external
housing assembly or the VRO2' pump unit as an as- air leak and listen for the pump clicking as the pressure
sembly. tester is pumped.
8B. If the oil consumption is as specified, yet the no oil a. If the pump unit clicks as the tester is pumped, the air
warning sounds, check the following: motor is leaking or its housing is cracked. Locate
a. The oil tank pickup filter for debris or blockage. and repair the leak. If necessary, install all compo-
b. Kinks or blockages in the oil supply line. nents of the air motor housing kit (or replace the air
c. Loose fittings, clamps or other air leaks into the oil motor cover).
supply line. b. If the pump does not click as the tester is pumped,
9. V8 models-Repeat this test procedure for the upper check for air leakage from the fuel outlet fitting. If
VRO~ pump unit. air is leaking from the fuel outlet fitting, the shaft
10. When finished,remove the clear vinyl hose and recon- seal or intermediate housing has failed. Replace
nect the oil supply line. Secure the connection with a the intermediate housing (or intermediate housing
ratchet clamp or the original spring clamp (if equipped). kit).
Then verify that the system is consuming oil, as described c. If the pump does not click as the tester is pumped
in this chapter. and air is not leaking from the fuel outlet fitting, an
external air leak is present. Locate and repair the ex-
ternal air leak. It may be necessary to replace the air
Bench tests motor andlor intermediate housings.
d. After repairs, repeat the bench test procedure.
These bench tests check the internal check valves and
4. If the pump does not click in Step 3A, wait five seconds
diaphragms in the air motor and fuel pump sections of
after removing the pressure tester, then remove your finger
the V R O ~pump unit. The test procedure must be per-
from the fuel outlet fitting (A, Figure 14). The pump must
formed in the specified order or the test results will not be
click as your finger is removed from the fitting. Note the
accurate. results, then proceed to Step 5.
The pulse line fitting and the fuel inlet and outlet fittings 5. Connect a gearcase vacuum tester (such as Stevens part
are replaceable on 1998-2002models. If any of the fittings No. V-34) to the pump's pulse fitting (B, Figure 14). Ap-
leak between the fitting and the pump body, replace the fit- ply 15 in.-hg. (50.66 kPa) vacuum to the pulse hose fitting.
ting's O-ring and recheck for leakage. This will pull the air motor to the right until the poppet
valve opens, at which point the spring will push the air mo-
NOTE
External air leakage out of or into the pump tor, fuel pump and oil pump components to the left.
unit cannot be tolerated. Repair all leakage 6. Hold the pump in its normal operating position, cover
noted during the testing procedure. the fuel outlet fitting (A, Figure 14) with a finger and
quickly remove the vacuum tester from the pulse fitting.
1. Remove the VR02 pump unit as described in this chap- Wait five seconds, then remove your finger from the fuel
ter. outlet fitting. The pump must click as your finger is re-
2. Connect a gearcasepressure tester (such as Stevens part moved from the fitting.
No. S-34) to the pump's pulse hose fitting. Apply 15 psi a. If the pump clicks as specified in Step 4 and Step 6,
(103.4 kPa) to the pulse hose fitting (B, Figure 14). This the pump has passed the bench tests. Proceed to Step
will push the air motor to the right until the poppet valve 8.
opens, at which point the spring will push the air motor, b. If the pump clicks as specifiedin Step 4, but not Step
fuel pump and oil pump components to the left. 6, the pulse line vacuum check valve in the interme-
3A. Tester holds pressure-If the pump holds pressure, diate housing has failed. Replace the intermediate
hold the pump in its normal operating position, cover the housing (or intermediate housing kit).
fuel outlet fitting (A, Figure 14) with a finger and quickly c. If the pump does not click as specified in Step 4, but
remove the pressure tester from the pulse fitting. The does click as specified in Step 6, the pulse line pres-
pump must not click. sure check valve in the intermediate housing has
a. If the pump clicks, install all components con- failed. Replace the intermediate housing (or inter-
tained in the fuel pump diaphragm kit (or fuel pis- mediate housing kit).
d. If the pump does not click as specified in Step 4 or 8. Hold the pump unit next to the power head. Connect the
Step 6, the air motor diaphragm or poppet valve is oil supply line (C, Figure 14),crankcase pulse line (B)and
leaking. Install the air motor piston kit (or air motor fuel supply line (D) to their respective pump fittings.
piston and diaphragm kit). Secure each connection with the a spring clamp or ratchet
7. Repeat the entire bench test procedure after repairs are (snapper) clamp.
complete to verify correct assembly and that the repairs 9. Connect the pump unit four-pin Amphenol connector
have been satisfactorily completed. to its engine harness mate. Make sure the wire bail is
8. When finished, reinstall the VR02pump unit as de- installed over the assembled connectors to prevent them
scribed later in this chapter. from vibrating apart.
10. Position the pump to the air intake cover base. Secure
the pump with three screws and washers. Evenly tighten
V R O ~Pump RernovaVInstallation the screws to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m).
11. Connect the fuel line to the fuel outlet fitting (A,
90" V4 cross-$!ow models Figure 14) at the top of the pump unit. Secure the connec-
If a new VRo2pump unit is installed, the pulse limiter tion with the original spring clamp or a new tie-strap.
must also be replaced. Refer to Figure 17 for this proce- 12. Squeeze the oil tank's primer bulb one time.
dure. 13. Connect the spark plug leads, then connect the nega-
tive battery cable. Tighten the battery connection securely.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then remove and
ground the spark plug leads to the power head to prevent 14. Verify that the system is consuming oil as described
accidental starting. in this chapter, before operating the engine on straight
gasoline.
2. Remove the spring clamp (or tie-strap) securingthe fuel
line to the fuel outlet fitting (A, Figure 14). Carefully
remove the fuel line from the fitting. Plug the line to
prevent contamination.
90" V4, V6 and V8 models
If a new VRo2pump unit is being installed, the pulse

'I
3. Remove the three screws and washers securing the
V R O pump
~ unit to the air intake cover base. limiter must also be replaced. On V6 and V8 models, the
4. Pull the pump away from the cover base and carefully fuel primer solenoid is also mounted on the pump unit
disconnect the fuel inlet line (D, Figure 14), crankcase bracket (lower bracket on V8 models). On V8 models,
pulse line (B) and the oil supply line (C) from the pump either pump unit may be replaced independently of each
fittings.Plug each line as it is removed (to prevent contami- other.
nation). 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then remove and
5. Disconnect the pump unit electrical leads from the ground the spark plug leads to the power head to prevent
four-pin Amphenol connector. The four leads are tan (or accidental starting.
tanlyellow), black, gray and purple. 2. Remove the spring clamp (or tie-strap) securing the fuel
6. Once all lines and leads are disconnected, remove the line to the fuel outlet fitting (A, Figure 14). Carefully
pump from the power head. remove the fuel line from the fitting. Plug the line to
7. If a new pump unit is to be installed, remove and replace prevent contamination.
the pulse limiter as described later in this chapter. 3A. V6 models-Remove the two screws securing the fuel
primer solenoid to the pump unit mounting bracket. Locate
and secure the star washer on the solenoid's ground (black)
lead. Pull the primer solenoid away from the pump mount-
ing bracket and position it off to one side.
3B. V8 models-If the lower pump is being removed,
remove the two screws securing the fuel primer solenoid
to the lower pump unit's mounting bracket. Locate and
secure the star washer on the solenoid's ground (black)
lead. Pull the primer solenoid away from the pump mount-
ing bracket and position it off to one side.
4. Remove the two screws securing the pump mounting
bracket to the power head. On 1996-1998V4 models, the
electricaljunction box is also secured by the lower mount-
ing screw.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
5. Pull the pump away from the cover base and carefully 19. Verify that the system is consuming oil as described in
disconnect the fuel inlet line (D, Figure 14), crankcase this chapter, before operating the engine on straight gaso-
pulse line (B) and the oil supply line (C) from the pump fit- line.
tings. Plug each line as it is removed to prevent contamina-
tion.
60" V4 and V6 models
6. Disconnect the pump unit electrical leads at the
four-pin Amphenol connector. The four leads are tan (or If a new V R O ~pump unit is being installed, the pulse
tanlyellow), black, gray and purple. limiter must also be replaced. The fuel outlet fitting (A,
7. Once all lines are disconnected, remove the pump and Figure 14, typical) connects directly to the fuel distribu-
mounting bracket assembly from the power head. tion manifold and is sealed with two O-rings.
8. Remove the three screws and washers securing the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then remove and
pump to its mounting bracket. Separate the pump from the ground the spark plug leads to the power head to prevent
mounting bracket. accidental starting.
9. If a new pump unit is to be installed, remove and re- 2. V4 models-Remove the split lower cowls as described
place the pulse limiter as described later in this chapter. in Power head removal/installation in Chapter Eight.
10. V8 models-If both pumps are to be removed, repeat 3. Remove the air intake cover. Release the four rubber
Steps 2-8. straps from their anchor points on the power head, then
11. To install the V R O ~ pump unit, begin by assembling pull the cover away from the carburetors. Make sure the
the mounting bracket to the pump unit. Secure the pump vent lines at the top starboard and bottom port comers of
with three screws and washers. Evenly tighten the screws the cover are disconnected before completely removing
to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m). the air intake cover from the engine.
12. Hold the pump unit next to the power head. Connect 4. Disconnect the pump unit electrical leads at the
the oil supply line (C, Figure 14), crankcase pulse line (B) four-pin Amphenol connector. The four leads are tan (or
and fuel supply line (D) to their respective pump fittings. tanlyellow), black, gray and purple.
Secure each connection with a spring clamp or ratchet 5. Carefully disconnect the oil supply line from the pump
(snapper) clamp. fitting. See Figure 15. Plug the line once it is removed to
prevent contamination.
13. Position the pump and mounting bracket assembly to
6. Remove the three screws and washers securing the
the intake manifold and secure it with two screws. Tighten
pump unit to the fuel component bracket.
both screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). On 1996-2002
7. Carefully pull the pump away from the bracket to dis-
V4 models, make sure the electrical junction box is se-
connect the fuel outlet fitting (at the top of the pump unit)
cured by the lower mounting screw.
from the fuel distributionmanifold. Be careful not to break
14. Connect the pump unit four-pin Amphenol connector
or damage the fuel outlet fitting.
to its engine harness mate. Make sure the wire bail is in-
8. Pull the pump away from the fuel component bracket
stalled over the assembled connectors to prevent them
and carefully disconnect the crankcase pulse line (B,
from vibrating apart.
Figure 14) and the oil supply line (C) from the pump fit-
15. Connect the fuel line to the fuel outlet fitting (A, Fig- tings. Plug each line as it is removed to prevent contami-
ure 14) at the top of the pump unit. Secure the connection nation.
with a spring clamp or a new tie-strap. 9. Once all lines are disconnected, remove the pump from
16A. V6 models-Position the fuel primer solenoid onto the power head. Remove and discard the two O-rings on
the pump mounting bracket and secure it in place with its the pump outlet fitting.
mounting strap and two screws. Make sure the star washer 10. If a new pump unit is to be installed, remove and re-
and solenoid ground (black) lead are installed under one place the pulse limiter as described later in this chapter.
screw. Tighten both screws securely. 11. To install the V R O ~ pump unit, begin by lubricating
16B. V8 models-If the lower pump was removed, posi- two new O-rings with outboard oil (Chapter Four) and in-
tion the fuel primer solenoid into the lower pump mount- stall them into the grooves on the pump's fuel outlet fitting.
ing bracket and secure it in place with its mounting strap 12. Hold the pump unit next to the fuel component
and two screws. Make sure the star washer and solenoid bracket. Connect the crankcase pulse line (B, Figure 14)
ground (black) lead are installed under one screw. Tighten and fuel supply line (D) to their respective pump fittings.
both screws securely. Secure each connection with a spring clamp or ratchet
17. Squeeze the oil tank's primer bulb one time. (snapper) clamp.
18. Connect the spark plug leads, then connect the nega- 13. Align the fuel outlet fitting with the hole in the fuel
tive battery cable. Tighten the battery connection securely. distributionmanifold and carefully push the fitting into the
manifold. Secure the pump to the fuel component bracket 4. 1998-2002 models-Disconnect the oil piston (15,
with three screws and washers. Evenly tighten the screws Figure 18) from the stem nut (14) in the fuel piston, then
to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N.m). remove the oil piston from the pump unit. Be careful not to
14. Connect the pump unit four-pin Amphenol connector damage the seal at the end of the oil piston.
to its engine harness mate. Make sure the wire bail is in- 5A. 1995-1997 models-Refer to Figure 18 and disas-
stalled over the assembled connectors to prevent them semble the intermediate housing as follows:
from vibrating apart. a. Hold the intermediatehousing in one hand. Push the
15. Connect the oil supply line to the pump fitting. See air motor piston and diaphragm toward the interme-
Figure 15. Secure the connection with a spring clamp or diate housing and hold it firmly against the housing.
ratchet (snapper) clamp. b. Grasp the fuel pump diaphragm in the other hand
16. Install the air intake cover. Make sure the vent lines at and unthread it from the air motor diaphragm and
the top starboard and bottom port comers of the cover are shaft. Then pull the fuel and air motor diaphragms
connected before completely seating the air intake cover to away from each other and out of the intermediate
the carburetors. Then connect the four rubber straps to housing.
their anchor points on the power head. c. Grasp the piston stem (7, Figure 18) with a pair of
17. V4 models-Install the split lower cowls as described needlenose pliers and unthread it from the dia-
in Power head removal/installation in Chapter Eight. phragm. Locate and secure the fuel check valve (1l ,
18. Squeeze the oil tank's primer bulb one time. Figure 18), nylon washer (10) and oil pump piston
19. Connect the spark plug leads, then connect the nega- and stem nut assembly. Discard the piston stem (7,
tive battery cable. Tighten the battery connection securely. Figure 18) and two steel washers (6).
20. Venfy that the system is consuming oil as described in 5B. 1998-2002 models-Refer to Figure 18 and disas-
this chapter, before operating the engine on straight gaso- semble the intermediate housing as follows:
line. a. Hold the intermediatehousing in one hand and push
the fuel piston and diaphragm toward the housing.
Hold the piston firmly against the housing.
V R O ~Pump Unit Disassembly b. Grasp the air motor diaphragmin the other hand and
unthread it from the fuel pump diaphragm and pis-
Replacement parts, repair kits and service procedures ton. The piston stem (7, Figure 18) is attached to the
vary between the 1995-1997models and the 1998models. air motor diaphragm or the fuel piston diaphragm.
The pulse line fitting and the fuel inlet and outlet fittings c. Pull the fuel and air motor diaphragms away from
are replaceable on 1998-2002models. A rubber disc-type each other and out of the intermediate housing.
check valve (23, Figure 18) is located under the fuel inlet d. Grasp the piston stem (on whichever diaphragm it is
fitting on 1998-2002models. still attached to) with a pair of needlenose pliers and
unthread it from the diaphragm. Locate &d secure
NOTE the fuel check valve (11, Figure 18), nylon washer
I f the pump unit has been replaced on
1995-1997 models, the replacement pump (10) and stem screw (14). Discard the piston stem (7,
will be serviced in the same manner as the Figure 18) and two steel washers (6).
1998-2002 models. 6. If necessary,remove the four screws (21, Figure 18) se-
curing the no oil sensor to the oil pump (inlet) housing.
1. Remove the VRO2 pump unit as described previously Separate the inlet housing (16, Figure 18) from the no oil
in this chapter. sensor assembly (20). Remove and discard the seal (19,
2. Place the pump onto a clean workbench with the air Figure 18) from the no oil sensor actuator shaft, then re-
motor housing facing up. Hold down on the air motor move and discard the seal (18) between the no oil sensor
cover and remove the eight cover screws (1, Figure 18). and inlet housing.
After the screws are removed, carefully release the cover 7. 1998-2002 models-Service the removable fittings as
(2, Figure 18), allowing the internal springs (3 and 4) to re- follows:
lax. Remove the cover, large and small springs and the vac- a. Note the position and orientation of each fitting be-
uum passage O-ring (9, Figure 18). Discard the O-ring. fore removing any of the fittings.
3. Invert the pump so that the oil pump inlet housing is b. Remove the two screws (29, Figure 18) securing the
facing up. Remove the six screws (17, Figure 18) securing retainer plate over each fitting (25, 26 and 27).
the oil pump inlet housing assembly to the intermediate c. Remove the retainer plate (28, Figure 18), then pull
housing (8). Lift the intermediate housing straight up and each fitting from its housing. Remove and discard
away from the oil pump inlet housing assembly. the O-ring (24, Figure 18) from each fitting.
1 546 CHAPTER ELEVEN
VRO? PUMP UNIT
1. Screw 20. No oll sensor assembly

2. Air motor cover 21. Screw
3. Small (poppet) spring 22. Four-pin Amphenol connector
4. Larger spring 23. Fuel inlet check valve
5. Air motor piston (1998 models)
and diaphragm 24. O-rings (1998 models)
6. Steel washers 25. Fuel Inlet fitting
7. Piston stem (1998 models)
8. Intermediatehousing 26. Pulse line fitting
9. O-ring (1998 models)
10. Nylon washer 27. Fuel outlet fitting
11. Check valve (1998 models)
12. Fuel piston and diaphragm 28. Retainer plates
13. O-ring (1998 models) (1998 models)
14. Stem nut 29. Screws
15. Oil pump piston and seal
16. 011pump (inlet) housing
17. Screw
18. Seal
19. Actuator seal
d. Remove the fuel inlet check valve (23, Figure 18) a. Lubricate a new actuator shaft seal (19, Figure 18)
from the inlet housing. Discard the check valve. and slide it over the actuator shaft and against the oil
8. Clean all components with OMC Cleaning Solvent. In- pump inlet housing (16).
spect all parts and components for wear, deterioration or b. Lubricate a new seal (18, Figure 18) and install it
other damage. Replace all suspect parts. into the groove on the face of the no oil sensor hous-
ing (20).
c. Position the housings next to each other and align
V R O ~Pump Unit Assembly the screw holes. Carefully install the four screws
(21, Figure 18), making sure the threads are cor-
Lubricate all internal components with the recom- rectly engaged.
mended outboard oil (Chapter Four). Make no dry assem- d. Evenly tighten the four screws in a crossing pattern
blies. Refer to Figure 18 for this procedure. until the oil sensor housing isjust h e l d f d y against
the oil pump (inlet) housing.
CAUTION 3A. 1995-1997models-Assemble the intermediatehous-
When installing screws into plastic hous-
ing as follows:
ings, extreme care must be taken to prevent
cross-threading the screws. Cross-threading a. Insert the stem nut (connected to the oil pump pis-
the screws will cause the housing threads to ton) through the fuel pump piston and diaphragm
prematurely fail. Install each screw into its (from the plastic side).
bore, then slowly turn each screw backward b. Position the fuel check valve (1 1, Figure 18) over
(counterclockwise)until you feel each screw the threads of the stem nut. Then install the nylon
drop into the housing? preformed threads. washer (10. Figure 18) over the stem nut threads.
Once the threads are properly engaged, each The recessed side of the retainer must face away
screw may be tightened as specijied. from the diaphragm.
c. Install a new steel washer (6, Figure 18) over the
1. 1998 models-Install the fuel inlet check valve and all stem nut threads, then thread a new piston stem (7,
three removable fittings as follows: Figure 18) onto the stem nut. Tighten the stemusing
a. Carefully install a new inlet check valve (23, Figure only your fingers. Do not use any tools.
18)into the fuel inlet fitting port in the oil pump inlet d. Lubricate the stem and fuel piston assembly. Install
housing. Align the hole in the valve with the align- the assembly into the intermediate housing, making
ment pin cast into the housing. sure the stem is piloted into the bore in the middle of
b. Lubricate a new O-ring and install it over the fuel in- the intermediate housing.
let fitting. Install the fitting into its bore, being care- e. Install a new steel washer over the screw in the air
ful not to displace the inlet check valve. Make sure motor diaphragm. Thread the air motor diaphragm
the fitting seats in its bore. onto the stem in a clockwise direction.
c. Install the retainer plate over the fitting and align the f. Hold the poppet portion of the air motor diaphragm
screw holes. Carefully install the two screws, mak- in toward the piston stem to hold the screw in place.
ing sure the threads are correctly engaged. Tighten Then rotate the diaphragm clockwise to tighten the
the screws until they just contact the retainer plate. screw. Tighten the screw 114 turn past the point of
d. If the inlet fitting is angled, rotate the fitting to its first contact.
original position (as noted during disassembly). In- g. Push the outer diameter of the fuel diaphragm into
sert a suitable round tool (such as a Phillips screw- the groove in the intermediate housing.
driver) into the fitting if extra leverage is needed. Do 3B. 1998-2002models-Assemble the intermediatehous-
not damage the fitting with a pair of pliers or a sirni- ing as follows:
lar tool. a. Insert the threaded end of the stem nut (14, Figure
e. Once the fitting is correctly aligned, tighten both re- 18) through the fuel pump diaphragm (from the
tainer plate screwsjust until the retainer f d y con- plastic piston side). Make sure the hex of the nut en-
tacts the housing. gages the hex recess in the plastic piston.
f. Repeat substeps b-e to install the fuel outlet and b. Position the fuel check valve (11, Figure 18) over
crankcase pulse line fittings. There are no check the threads of the stem nut (14). Then install the ny-
valves on these two fittings. lon retainer (10, Figure 18) over the stem nut
2. If the no oil sensor was separated from the oil pump in- threads. The recessed side of the retainer must face
let housing, assemble these components as follows: away from the diaphragm.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
c. Install a new steel washer (6, Figure 18) over the 8. Rotate the air motor cover to align the screw holes, then
stem nut threads, then thread a new piston stem (7) install the eight screws, making sure the threads are cor-
onto the stem nut. Tighten the stem using only your rectly engaged. Hold the housings firmly together and
fingers. Do not use any tools. evenly tighten the screws in a crossing pattern. Tighten the
d. Lubricate the stem and fuel piston assembly. Install screws 118 turn past contact.
the assembly into the intermediatehousing, making 9. Install the v R o 2 pump unit as described previously in
sure the stem fits into the bore in the middle of the in- this chapter.
termediate housing.
NOTE Pulse Limiter Service

Do not overtighten the air or fuel dia-
phragms to thepiston stem. By design, these A pulse limiter is used in the crankcase pulse line on all
componentscannot loosen under operation. models equipped with the V R O ~system. Most of the
models covered in this manual use a pulse limiter that is
e. Install a new steel washer (6, Figure 18) over the threaded (A, Figure 19) into the crankcase cover. Some
screw in the air motor diaphragm. Thread the air mo- models may use a pulse limiter that has nipples on both
tor diaphragm onto the stem in a clockwisedirection
sides (B, Figure 19) and is mounted inline between the
until it is barely snug to the stem.
power head and the V R O ~ pump unit.
f. Carefully snap the oil piston (15, Figure 18) onto
The pulse limiter is designed to close the pulse line
the stem nut (14). Lubricate the oil piston seal.
whenever it detects an abnormally high crankcasepressure
g. Lubricate a new O-ring (13, Figure 18) and install it
pulse. The pulse limiter has no control (or effect) over the
over the oil pump housing flange.
vacuum pulses. The pulse limiter consists of a disc type
4. Install the oil pump and inlet housing assembly to the valve and spring. The spring holds the valve open under
intermediate housing as follows:
normal conditions. If an abnormally high pressure pulse
a. Carefully guide the oil pump piston into its bore in
the oil pump and inlet housing assembly.
b. Rotate the housings to align the screw holes. On
1998 models, make sure the O-ring (13, Figure 18)
is not displaced.
c. Carefully install the six screws, making sure the PULSE-LIMITER
- FlHlNG
/_,/
threads are correctly engaged. Hold the housings
f d y together and evenly tighten the screws in a
crossing pattern. Tighten the screws 118 turn past
contact.
5. Make sure the outer diameter of the air motor dia-
phragm is seated in its groove in the intermediatehousing.
Then lubricate a new O-ring (9, Figure 18) and place it in
the vacuum passage relief in the intermediate housing.
6A. 1995-1997 models-Grease one end of the small pop-
pet valve spring with OMC Triple Guard Grease. Place the
spring into the relief at the center of the poppet valve in the
air motor diaphragm.
6B. 1998-2002 models-Install the small spring over the
boss in the center of the air motor cover (2, Figure 18).
Twist the spring counterclockwise and push it toward the
boss until it is firmly attached to the boss.
7. Place the large spring into the large recess in the air mo-
tor diaphragm. Then carefully install the air motor cover
over the large spring. Push the cover toward the intermedi-
ate housing, compressing the large spring. Make sure the
small spring fits on both the center boss of the air motor
cover and the recess in the center of the air motor dia-
phragm.
OIL INJEXTION SYSTEMS
attempts to pass through the pulse limiter, the pressure of d. Unthread the pulse limiter from the crankcasecover.
the pulse against the disc valve will compress the spring, 2C. 90" V4 and V6 (loop-charged) models-The pulse
allowing the disc valve to close the pulse limiter. As soon limiter is located on the port side of the crankcase cover
the as the high pressure pulse is gone, the spring will and is threaded into the lowest reed box cavity on the
reopen the disc valve, allowing normal operation. crankcase cover. To remove the pulse limiter, proceed as
High pressure pulses are created when the engine back- follows:
fires in the induction system. 'Qpical causes of induction a. Remove the port side of the lower split cowl as
system backfire are: lean airlfuel ratios, improper starting described in the appropriate Power head removaUin-
technique, thermostat malfunction, damaged reed valves, stallation in Chapter Eight.
crankcase air leaks and incorrect ignition timing. b. If the VRo2 pump unit is preventing access to the
pulse limiter, remove the pump unit as described
CAUTION previously in this chapter.
Do not remove (or bypass) the pulse limiter.
c. Remove the clamp or tie-strap securing the pulse
The air motor diaphragm in the VRd pump
unit can be destroyed theJirst time the out- hose to the pulse limiter.
board motor experiences an induction sys- d. Unthread the pulse limiter from the crankcasecover.
tem bac@re. 2D. V8 models-A separate pulse limiter is used for each
VRo2pump unit. Both pumps' pulse lirmters are accessed
Since a malfunctioning pulse limiter can result in re- from the port side of the crankcase cover. The upper
stricted crankcasepressure and vacuum pulse to the VR02 pump's limiter is installed in the reed box cavity for
pump unit (which will cause restricted fuel and oil flow to cylinder No. 4 (second box from top on the starboardside
the power head), the pulse limiter must be cleaned or of the crankcase cover), and the lower pump's limiter is
replaced whenever any service is performed on the pump installed in the reed box cavity for cylinder No. 8 (the
unit. The pulse limiter must be re laced if the air motor lowest reed box cavity). To remove either or both of the
J'
fails for any reason or if the VRO pump unit is replaced pulse limiters, proceed as follows:
as an assembly. a. If the lower pump limiter is to be removed, remove
the port side of the lower split cowl as described in
NOTE the appropriate Power head removaVinstallation in
V8 models will have one pulse limiter for
~ each V R pump
~ unit.
To replace or clean the pulse limiter, proceed as follows:
Chapter Eight.
-
b. 1f either VR02 ~ u unit
&
m is~preventing access to the
pulse limiter(s) to be removed, remove the pump
unit(s) as described previously in this chapter.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and disconnect
and ground the spark plug leads to the power head to c. Remove the clamp(s) or tie-strap(s) securing the
prevent accidental starting. pulse hose to the pulse limiter(s) to be removed.
2A. 90" V4 models-The pulse limiter is located on the d. Unthread the pulse limiter(s) from the crankcase
port side of the crankcase cover, near the bottom of the cover.
electric starter motor. To remove the pulse limiter, proceed 3. Inspect the pulse limiter for carbon buildup, cracks,
as follows: distortion or evidence of external leakage. Replace the
a. Remove the electric starter motor as described in limiter if there is any doubt as to its condition. Clean the
Chapter Seven. limiter by spraying an aerosol carburetor and choke
b. Remove the clamp or tie-strap securing the pulse cleaner, such as OMC Carburetor and Choke Cleaner
hose to the pulse limiter. through it in both directions. Then clean all old sealant
c. Unthread the pulse limiter from the crankcase cover. from the limiter's threads.
2B. 60" V4 and V6 models-The pulse limiter is located at
the front of the crankcase cover, near the shift lever mount- NOTE
Thepulse limitingfeature of the pulse limiter
ing bosses. To remove the pulse limiter, proceed as follows:
must not engage when tested in Step 4. Do
a. Remove the port side of the lower split cowl as not attempt to engage the limiting feature
described in the appropriatePower head removaMn- using compressed air.
stallation in Chapter Eight.
b. Remove the fuel component bracket as described in 4. Attach a suitable piece of rubber hose to one end of the
Chapter Six. pulse limiter. Blow through the hose and limiter. Air must
c. Remove the clamp or tie-strap securing the pulse flow freely through the limiter. Then attach the hose to the I
hose to the pulse limiter. other end of the limiter and again blow through the hose.
I
550 CHAPTER ELEVEN
Air must flow freely through the limiter. Replace the pulse To service the oil tank, refer to Figure 22 and proceed
limiter if air flow is restricted in either direction. as follows:
1. Locate the oil tank. Lift the two latch handles (5, Figure
NOTE
I f your engine is equipped with a pulse 22) and pivot them away from the oil tank. Then remove
limiter with hose $fittings on both ends (B, the oil tankfrom its mounting bracket and move it to a more
Figure 19), it can be installed backward. If accessible location.
so, it will not protect the air motor dia- 2. Remove the fill cap and pour the rese~oircontents into
phragm from abnormal pressure pulses. The a clean container. Inspect the oil for water, debris or any
metal (typically brass or aluminum) side of other contamination. If the oil is contaminated, the tank
the limiter must face the power head. The must be washed and the oil supply line flushed before
plastic (typically blue) side of the limiter returning the unit to service.
mustface the d pump unit.
3. Remove the four oil pickup mounting screws with a No.
5. Lightly coat the threads of the pulse limiter(s) with 25 Torx drive. Lift the pickup assembly from the oil tank
OMC Pipe Sealant with Teflon, then install the limiter(s) and set it into a suitable container to drain. Inspect the
into the crankcase cover and tighten it securely. Reattach
the pulse line to the limiter(s) and secure it with a sprin
or ratchet clamp. If it was necessary to remove the VRO 9
pump unit(s) to access the pulse limiter, reinstall the V R O ~
pump unit(s) at this time.
6A. 90" V4 (cross-flow) models-Reinstall the electric
starter motor as described in Chapter Seven.
6B. 60" V4 and V6 models-Reinstall the fuel component
bracket as described in Chapter Six.
7. If the port lower split cowl was removed, reinstall the
cowl as described in Power head removal/installation in
Chapter Eight.
8. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative battery
cable. Tighten the battery connection securely.
Oil Tank and Oil Supply Line Service
Oil tank service procedures include: changing the filter,

verifying the pickup height, cleaning the reservoir and
flushing the oil supply line and vacuum testing the supply
line and primer bulb. Each time the oil supply line is
disconnected from the fitting on the engine (Figure 20 or
Figure 21), the oil line must be purged of all air.
The oil line between the primer bulb and the engine must
be one single piece of 114in. (6.35 mm) braided-line. The
line is 15 ft. (4.6 m) long from the factory. If desired, the
factory line can be removed and a replacement line (up to
a maximum of 25 ft. [7.6 m]) may be installed. The
replacement line must also be one single piece.
NOTE
While the oil supply line m y be up to 2 5 8 .
(7.6 m) long, do not mk the line any longer
than necessary. Trim the replacement (or
original) line to the length needed. Avoid
excess line that m y become kinked or entan-
gled in other systems or components.
OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS 551
wiring harness
OIL TANK ASSEMBLY
1. Mounting bracket
2. Lag screw
3. Oil tank
4. Shield
5. Latch handle
6. Seal
7. Fill cap
8. Pickup assembly
9. Screw
10. Seal
11. Filter
12. Ratchet clamp
CHAPTER ELEVEN
pickup seal (Figure 23). Discard the seal if it is damaged 13. Remove the plug from the oil pickup end of the line.
or deteriorated. Reconnect the line to the pickup. Secure the connection
4. Wash the oil tank in a mild solvent,then blow it dry with with a ratchet clamp.
compressed air. 14. If the pickup seal was removed, install the seal over
5. Grasp the filter (11, Figure 22) at the bottom of the oil the pickup and into its groove at the top of the pickup
pickup assembly and remove it with a twisting motion. assembly.
Discard the filter. 15. Install a new oil filter onto the oil pickup with a gentle
6. To flush the oil supply line and vacuum test it for twisting motion. When correctly installed, the extended
leakage, begin by removing the ratchet clamp (12, Figure end of the filter must point in the same direction as the oil
22) from the bottom of the oil tank pickup. Then carefully line exiting the top of the pickup assembly.
push the oil line from the pickup assembly. 16. Measure the height of the oil pickup. The measure-
7. Remove the ratchet clamp securing the oil supply line ment is taken from the bottom of the pickup assembly to
to the fitting on the engine's lower cowl. See Figure 20 or its oil tank mating surface. The measurement can be taken
Figure 21, typical. Then remove the line from the fitting with the filter installed.
and place it in a suitable container. a. 1.8 gal. tanks-The pickup must measure 6.84-6.96
8. Apply LOW pressure compressed air to the oil supply in. (173.7-176.8 mm).
line at the oil pickup end. Apply air pressure until all oil
(and contamination) is expelled from the engine end of the
line.
NOTE
Cap (partNo.315391) and holder/plug (part
No. 329661) are located on a fuel line near
the V R pump~ unit. The plug (Figure24)
can be used to plug the oil supply line.
9. Insert a suitable plug (such as part No. 329661) into the

oil tank end of the oil supply line and secure the connection
with the original ratchet clamp.
10. Connect a gearcase vacuum tester (such as Stevens
Instruments part No. V-34) to the engine end of the oil
supply line. Apply a 7 in.-hg. (23.6 H a ) vacuum to the oil
supply line. The line must maintain 7 in.-hg. (23.6 H a )
vacuum for a minimumof five minutes.
11. If the line does not maintain vacuum, locate and repair
the leak. Do not make splice repairs; replace the defective
line or components.
12. Remove the vacuum tester. Do not reconnect the oil
supply line to the engine at this time.
b. 3.0 gal. tank-The pickup must measure 8.74-8.86 CAUTION

in. (222.0-225.0 mm). Failure topurge airffom the system properly
in Step 9 can result in serious power head
c. If the measurement is not as specified, carefully
damage from insujicient lubrication.
move the pickup assembly up or down the two metal
rods until the measurement is within specification. 1. Remove the oil supply hose from the fitting of the en-
17. Install the pickup assembly into the oil tank, making gine's lower cowl. See Figure 20 or Figure 21, typical.
sure the pickup seal is not displaced. Align the screw 2. Hold the hose above the level of the V R O ~ pump unit
holes, then install the four screws. Evenly and securely and place the open end in a suitable container.
tighten the four screws in a crossing pattern. 3. Squeeze the primer bulb (at the oil tank) until all air is
expelled and only raw oil is discharged from the line. See
18. Fill the oil tank with the recommended outboard oil
Figure 25.
(Chapter Four).
4. Immediately connect the oil line to the fitting on the en-
19. Before connecting the oil supply line to the engine, gine's lower cowl. Secure the connection with a ratchet
purge all air from the line as described in the next section. clamp. Tighten the clamp securely. See Figure 20 or Fig-
ure 2 1, typical.
5. Squeeze the primer bulb (at the oil tank) one time to
Purging air from push the oil from the fitting to the VR02pump unit. Do not
the oil line and oil tank squeezethe bulb repeatedly or the fuel system will become
flooded with oil.
Perform this procedure each time the oil supply line is 6. Operate the engine on a 50: 1 fueVoil mixture until the
disconnected from the oil line fitting on the lower cowl. oil consumption is verified as described in this chapter).
Table 1 OIL INJECTION SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

Component Specification
Oil tank capacity
Standard tank 1.8 gal. (6.8 L)
Optional tank 3.0 gal. (11.4 L)
Oil tank pickup height
1.8 gal. tank 6.84-6.96 in. (173.7-176.8 mm)
3.0 gal. tank 8.74-8.86 in. (222.0-225.0 mm)
Test specifications
Minimum fuel pressure 3 psi (20.7 kPa)
Oil consumption test
1995 models
800 rpm
V4 models 1 in. (25.4 mm) in 5 pump cycles
V6 and V8 models 1 in. (25.4 mm) in 7 pump cycles
Wide-open throttle 1 in. (25.4 mm) in 3 pump cycles
1996-2002 models
All engine speeds 3 in. (76.2 mm) in 6-8 pump cycles

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


Chapter Twelve
Remote Controls
This chapter covers remote control cable removal and The control boxes used on 1996-2002 models do not
installation at a standard OMC side-mount prewired con- have a safety lanyard switch or warning horn in the control
trol box. Coverage is also provided for remote control ca- box. The safety lanyard switch function is incorporated
ble removal, installation and adjustment at the engine. into the ignition switch (Figure 3). The warning horn is
Torque specifications are listed in Table 1. Table 1 is lo- mounted underneath the dash panel.
cated at the end of the chapter. The mechanicalfunction and design of the shift and throt-
tle control mechanisms is identical on both styles of control
The OMC standard side-mountprewired control box var- box.
ies slightly in design between the 1995 model that uses the
Traditional wiring harness and the 1996-2002models that Control Cable Removal and Installation
use the Modular wiring harness. Figure 1 shows a 1995 (At Control Box)
OMC standard side-mountprewired control box and its tra-
ditional wiring harness a n d connectors. Refer to Wiring The controlbox must split to gain accessto the control ca-
Harnesses in Chapter Three for additional information. bles. Splitting the control box also allows access to the neu-
tral safety switch and the ignition (key) switch. On 1995
The 1995control box has a safety lanyard switch (A, Fig- models, it also allows access to the warning horn and safety
ure 2) and a warning horn (B)mountedin the controlbox. lanyard switch.
REMOTE CONTROLS 555
To remove and install the control box control cables,

proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
2. Detach the control box from the hull as follows:
a. Remove the screws securing the control box to the
boat. Figure 4 shows the location of the mounting
screws. The screws usually have a large flat washer,
lockwasher and nut located behind the interior panel.
However, on some hulls, the screws are threaded di-
rectly into a wood or fiberglass reinforcement panel.
b. Lay a drop cloth over the floor (or driver's seat) and
pull the control box away from the interior panel and
.. remove anv
lav it on the d r o ~cloth. If necessarv,
tie-straps or clamps preventing the control box from
being pulled away from the interior panel. Do not
disconnect any electrical leads.
3. The control handle is normally mounted on the port side
of the control box. If so, it is not necessary to remove the
handle to split the control box. If the handle is mounted on
the starboard side of the control box, it must be removed
as follows:
a. Loosen the Allen screw securing the handle to the
control box.
b. Verify that the control handle is in the NEUTRAL
detent position. Note the position of the handle.
c. Support the control box with two wooden blocks
positioned on each side of the control handle. See
jFigure 5, typical.
556 CHAPTER TWELVE
REMOTE CONTROLS
Control Cable Removal, Installation within 12 in. (305 mm) of the lower engine cowl. Again,
and Adjustment (At Engine) failureto follow this recommendationwill cause the cables
to bind, kink and fail prematurely.
The control cables must always pass under the engine The routing of the cables in Figure 11 illustrates a
and loop back into the lower cowl. The loop must have a correct installation. The cables pass under the engine and
minimum radius of 12 in. (305 mm). Failure to allow an make a gentle loop back into the lower cowl.
adequate radius or running the cables directly into the The throttle control cable must be readjusted each time
lower cowl will cause the cables to bind, kink and fail the idle speed or idle stop screw is adjusted. The shift cable
prematurely. must be readjusted each time the gearcase or shift linkage
The control cables must not be clamped (or tie-strapped) is serviced, repaired or replaced.
together or clamped to the transom or any other cable If adjustment of the throttle and shift linkage not the
control cables is necessary, refer to Chapter Five and/or
Chapter Nine.
Control box requirements
If a non-OMC remote control box is used, it must

contain a neutral safety switch and it must provide a shift
stroke of 1.125-1.330 in. (28.58-33.78 mm), when meas-
ured between NEUTRAL and FORWARD gear (full throt-
tle position).
Shift cable removal, instQllQtionand adjustment

I (90" V4 cross-$low models)
This procedure applies only to the following 90"V4

cross-flow remote control outboard models: 88-115
Special and 90 and 115 hp. If you are working on an 85
BackTroller, refer to Chapter Five for shift system ad-
justments. If you are working on a 65 or 80jet drive unit,
refer to Chapter Nine for shift system adjustment pro-
cedures.
Use OMC Triple Guard Grease (or an equivalent water-
resistant grease) for all lubrication applications.The throt-
tle cable must be disconnected when adjusting the shift
cable.
If the shift shaft height on the lower gearcase is
incorrectly set, it may not be possible to correctly adjust
the shift cable or the gearcase will not shift correctly
even though the adjustment procedure was performed
correctly. If so, refer to Chapter Nine and adjust the shift
shaft height.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
Then disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the
2. The shift cable is the upper control cable in the anchor
bracket on the starboard side of the power head. Remove
the two screws and clamp (A, Figure 12,typical) securing
the shift and throttle cables' adjustable trunnions into the
anchor bracket near the front of the lower cowl.
CHAPTER TWELVE
3. Remove the elastic locknut (A, Figure 13) and flat their pockets in the anchor bracket and install the clamp
washer securing the cable to the shift lever. (and two screws). Tighten the screws to 60-84 in.-lb.
4. Pull the cable from the shift lever, anchor bracket and (6.8-9.5 Nem).
the control cable grommet (B, Figure 12, typical). Then 11. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect the
remove the cable from the power head. negative battery cable. Tighten the connection securely.
5. To install the shift cable, begin by shifting the control
box into the REVERSE gear (full throttle) position. Clean
all old lubricant from the shift cable's brass sleeve. Then Shift cable removal, installation and adjustment
apply a coat of fresh grease to the sleeve (and its threads). (60" V4 and V6[loop-charged] models)
6. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchor
bracket's pocket. This procedure applies only to the following 60" V4 and
V6 remote control outboard models: 90, 115,150 and 175
NOTE
When adjusting the shift cable on an OMC
side-mountprewired control box (Figure 1,
typical), the engine and the control box must
be in the full FORWARD gear position.
When using any other control box, the en-
gine and the control box must be in the
NEUTRAL detent position.
7A. OMC side-mountpravired control box-While rotat-
ing the propeller, manually move the engine shift linkage
into the full FORWARD gear position. The propeller will
cease to rotate when FORWARD gear has been engaged.
Then shift the control box into the FORWARD gear (full
throttle) position.
7B. All other control boxes-Shift the control box into the
NEUTRAL position. Then manually move the engine's
shift lever to the NEUTRAL detent position.
8. Position the shift cable to the power head. Then position
the shift cable's casing guide over the stud on the shift
lever. Secure the cable with the flat washer and elastic
locknut. Replace the locknut if it can be threaded on by
hand. Tighten the locknut (A, Figure 13) securely.
NOTE
The throttle cable must be disconnected
when adjusting the shift cable.
9A. OMC side-mount prewired control box-Hold the
shift cable's adjustable barrel over the pocket in the anchor
bracket. Pull the cable barrel toward the front of the engine
w
(toward the boat) to remove all slack fromthe controlcable

and shift linkage. Then adjust the barrel as necessary to
allow the barrel to slip into the pocket.
9B. All other control boxes-Hold the shift cable's adjust-
able barrel over the pocket in the anchor bracket. Gently
push and pull the barrel back and forth to determine the
slack in the linkage and cable, but do not pull the shift
linkage out of the NEUTRAL detent position. Center all
slack, then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow the barrel
to slip into the pocket.
10. Reinstall the control cable grommet into the lower
cowl. Then hold the shift and throttle cable barrels into
REMOTE CONTROLS
hp. If you are working on a 1998 80 jet drive or any 105 eve?;the split lower cowls must be installed
jet drive unit, refer to Chapter Nine for shift system adjust- before installing the shift a d o r throttle ca-
ment procedures. bles to the engine.
Use OMC Triple Guard Grease or an equivalent water-
4. The shift cable is the upper control cable in the anchor
resistant grease for all lubrication applications.The throttle bracket. Remove the speciallocking cotter clip (Figure 17)
cable must be disconnectedwhen adjusting the shift cable. securing the cable to the shift lever. Grasp the bent tip with
If the shift shaft height (on the lower gearcase) is incor- a pair of needlenose pliers and gently lift it up and toward
rectly set, it may not be possible to correctly adjust the shift the center of the shift lever pin to unlock the clip. Then
cable or the gearcase will not shift correctly even though remove the clip and washer from the shift lever and cable.
the adjustment procedure was performed correctly. If so, 5. Pull the cable from the shift lever, anchor bracket and
refer to Chapter Nine and adjust the shift shaft height. the control cable grommet. Then remove the cable from
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. the power head.
Then disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the 6. To install the shift cable, begin by shifting the control
power head to prevent accidental starting. box into the REVERSE gear (full throttle) position. Clean
2. Remove the screw (A, Figure 14) securing the control all old lubricant from the shift cable's brass sleeve. Then
cable (and grommet) cover to the starboard front comer of apply a coat of fresh grease to the sleeve and its threads.
the lower cowl. Remove the cover (B). 7. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchor
3. Remove the screw (Figure 15) securing the cable re- bracket's pocket.
tainer to the anchor block. Remove the retainer and slide
the grommet away from the lower cowl as shown in A, NOTE
Figure 16. When adjusting the shift cable on an OMC
side-mount prewired control box (Figure1,
NOTE typical), the engine and the control box must
For clarity, the split lower cowls are removed be in thefull FORWARD gearposition. When
in some of the followingphotographs. How- using any other control box, the engine and
the control box must be in the NEUTRAL
detent position.
8A. OMC side-mountprewired control box-While rotat-

cease to rotate when FORWARD gear is engaged. Then
shift the control box into the FORWARD gear (full throt-
tle) position.
8B. All other control boxes-Shift the control box into the
NEUTRAL position. Then manually move the engine's -
shift lever to-the NEUTRAL detent position.
9. Position the shift cable to the power head. Then position
the shift cable's casing guide over the stud on the shift
lever. Secure the cable with the flat washer and the special
locking clip (Figure 17). Make sure the clip locks into
position. Replace the clip if it is damaged or does not lock
into position.
NOTE
when adjusting the shift cable.

bracket (B, Figure 16). Pull the cable barrel toward the
front of the engine (toward the boat) to remove all slack
from the control cable and shift linkage. Then adjust the
560 CHAPTER TWELVE
barrel as necessary to allow the barrel to slip into the the clamp and screw. Tighten the screw (Figure 15) to
pocket. 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m).
10B. All other control boxes-Hold the shift cable adjust- 12. Install the cable cover (B, Figure 14). Tighten the
able barrel over the pocket in the anchor bracket (B, Figure retaining screw (A) securely.
16). Gently push and pull the barrel back and forth to 13. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect the
determinethe slack in the linkage and cable, but do not pull negative battery cable. Tighten the connection securely.
the shift linkage out of the NEUTRAL detent position.
Center all slack, then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow
the barrel to slip into the pocket. Shift cable removal, instaUation and adjustment
11. Reinstall the control cable grommet over the control (90" V4, V6 and V8 loop-chargedmodels)
cables and slide it into position over the screw hole in the
lower cowl. The cut side of the grommet must face away This procedure applies only to the following 90" V4, V6
from the lower cowl. Then hold the shift and throttle cable and V8 loop-charged remote control outboard models:
barrels into their pockets in the anchor bracket and install 130,200,225,250 and 300 hp.
CABLE, HOSE AND ELECTRICAL LEAD ROUTING

(1996-1998 90' V6 [LOOP-CHARGED] MODELS)
1. Fuel supply line 6. Shlft cable

2. Battery isolator lead 7. Oil tank leads
(o~tional) 8. Modular wiring system
3. Engine temperature (MWS) harness
gauge leads (optional) 9. Throttle cable
4. Oil supply line 10. Water pressure
5. Battery cables gauge line (optional)
REMOTE CONTROLS
Use OMC Triple Guard Grease (or an equivalent water- NOTE

resistant grease) for all lubrication applications. The throt- On some models, it may prove easiest to re-
tle cable must be disconnected when adjusting the shift move the starboard split lower cowl to gain
cable. better access to the control cables. Refer to
Power head removaE/installationin Chapter
If the shift shaft height on the lower gearcase is incor- Eight.
rectly set, it may not be possible to correctly adjust the shift
cable or the gearcase will not shift correctly even though CAUTION
the adjustment procedure was performed correctly. If so, On 1996-2002 V6 models, the control ca-
refer to Chapter Nine and adjust the shift shaft height. bles, fuel and oil lines and all electrical
leads exit through a single point on thefront,
starboard comer of the lower cowl. Refer to
Figure 18for the proper position of each ca-
ble, line and lead in the grommet. Failure to
properly position the cables, lines and leads
can result infueuoil restrictionsfieaks,dam-
aged electrical leads or binding control ca-
bles.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery!
Then disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to the
2. The shift cable is the lower control cable in the anchor
bracket on the starboard side of the power head. R ~ ~ O V ;
the screw and clamp (A, Figure 19) securing the shift cal
ble's adjustable trunnion into the anchor bracket near the
front of the lower cowl.
3. Remove the elastic locknut and flat washer (A, Figure!
20) securing the cable to the shift lever.
NOTE
On 1996-2002V6 models, it is necessary to
remove the two screws and metal strap se-
curing the grommet into the starboard cowl.
4. Pull the cable from the shift lever, anchor bracket and
the control cable grommet at the front of the lower cowl.
Then remove the cable from the power head.
5. To install the shift cable, begin by shifting the control
box into the REVERSE gear (fullthrottle) position. Clead
all old lubricant from the shift cable's brass sleeve. Thed
apply a coat of fresh grease to the sleeve and its threads.
6. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchoi
bracket's pocket.
NOTE
When adjusting the shift cable on an OMC
side-mount prewired control box (Figure 1,
typical), the engine and the control box must
be in the full FORWARD gear position.
When using any other control box, the en-
gine and the control box must be in the NEU-
TRAL detent position.
7A. OMC side-mountprewired control box-While rotat-
CHAPTER TWELVE
cease to rotate when FORWARD gear has been engaged. c. 65 and 80 jet drive units.
Then shift the control box into the FORWARD gear (full If you are working on an 85 BackTroller or a tiller han-
throttle) position. dle 80jet drive unit, refer to Chapter Five for throttle cable
7B. All other control boxes-Shift the control box into the adjustments.
NEUTRAL position. Then manually move the engine's Use OMC Triple Guard Grease (or an equivalent wa-
shift lever to the NEUTRAL detent position. ter-resistant grease) for all lubrication applications. The
8. Position the shift cable to the power head. Then posi- shlft cable must be installed and adjusted before installing
tion the shift cable's casing guide over the stud on the shift and adjusting the throttle cable.
lever. Secure the cable with the flat washer and elastic
locknut. Replace the locknut (A, Figure 20) if it can be CAUTION
threaded on by hand. Tighten the locknut securely. The propeller must be manually rotated
when shzfhng the gearcase into FORWARD
NOTE or REVERSE gear
when adjusting the shift cable. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
Then disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to pre-
vent accidental starting.
bracket. Pull the cable barrel toward the front of the engine 2. The throttle cable is the lower control cable in the an-
to remove all slack from the control cable and shift link- chor bracket on the starboard side of the power head. Re-
age. Then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow the barrel move the two screws and clamp (A, Figure 12, typical),
to slip into the pocket. securing the throttle and shift cables adjustable trunnions
9B. All other control boxes-Hold the shift cable's adjust- into the anchor bracket near the front of the lower cowl.
able barrel over the pocket in the anchor bracket. Gently 3. Remove the elastic locknut and flat washer (B, Figure
push and pull the barrel back and forth to determine the 13) securing the cable to the throttle lever.
slack in the linkage and cable, but do not pull the shift link- 4. Lift the shift cable's adjustable trunnion from the an-
age out of the NEUTRAL detent position. Center all slack, chor bracket to allow the throttle cable to be removed.
then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow the barrel to slip Then pull the throttle cable from the throttle lever, anchor
into the pocket. bracket and the control cable grommet (B, Figure 12, typi-
cal). Remove the cable from the power head.
NOTE 5. To install the throttle cable, begin by rotating the pro-
On 1996-2002 V6 models, after pushing the peller and shifting the control box into the FORWARD
grommet into the lower cowl, reinstall the gear (full throttle) position. Clean all old lubricant from
metal strap and secure it with two screws. the throttle cable's brass sleeve. Then apply a coat of fresh
Tighten the screws securely, then make sure grease to the sleeve and its threads.
that none of the cables, lines and hoses are
crushed or deformed. 6. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchor
bracket's pocket.
10. Hold the shift cable barrel into its pocket in the anchor 7. To correctly position the control lever to adjust the
bracket and install the clamp and screw. Tighten the screw throttle cable, proceed as follows:
to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). Then reinstall the grommet a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position.
and push it f m l y into the lower cowl. On applicable V6 Note the position of the control lever.
models, make sure all lines, cables and leads are routed as b. Rotate the propeller and move the control lever into
shown in Figure 18. the FORWARD gear idle detent position. Note the
11. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect position of the control lever.
the negative battery cable. Tighten the connection se- c. Pull the control lever halfway back to the NEU-
curely. TRAL position. This is the midpoint of the control
lever positions in the preceding substeps.
Throttle cable removal, installation and adjustment d. When correctly positioned, the lever must be half-
(90" V4 cross-jlow models) way between the FORWARD gear idle detent and
the NEUTRAL position.
This procedure applies only to the following 90" V4 8. Position the throttle cable on the power head. Then po-
cross-flow remote control models: sition the throttle cable's casing guide over the stud on the
a. 88-1 15 Special. throttlelspark control arm. Secure the cable with the flat
b. 90 and 115 hp outboard models. washer and elastic locknut (B, Figure 13). Replace the
REMOTE CONTROLS
locknut if it can be threaded on by hand. Tighten the Use OMC Triple Guard Grease (or an equivalent water-
locknut securely. resistant grease) for all lubrication applications. The shift
9. Hold the throttle cable's adjustable barrel over the cable must be installed and adjusted before installing and
anchor pocket on the power head. Firmly pull the barrel to adjusting the throttle cable.
seat the idle speedlstop screw against its power head stop.
Then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow the barrel to CAUTION
slip into the pocket. The propeller must be manually rotated
when shifting the gearcase into FORWARD
10. Reinstall the control cable grommet into the lower or REVERSE gear.
cowl. Then hold the shift and throttle cables' barrels into
their pockets in the anchor bracket and install the clamp 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
(and two screws). See A, Figure 12, typical. Tighten the Then disconnect and ground the sparkplug leads to prevent
screws to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). accidental starting.
11. Verify the adjustment as follows: 2. Remove the screw (A, Figure 14) securing the control
a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position. cable cover to the starboard front corner of the lower cowl.
b. Raise the fast idle lever on the control box, then Remove the cover (B, Figure 14).
return it to its fully down and latched position. The 3. Remove the screw (Figure 15) securing the cable re-
idle speedlstop screw must be seated against its tainer to the anchor block. Remove the retainer and slide
power head stop. If not, readjust the cable's trunnion the grommet away from the lower cowl as shown in A,
to pull the stop screw against its stop, then repeat this Figure 16.
step.
NOTE
c. While rotating the propeller, move the control lever For clarity, the split lower cowls are removed
(on the control box) into the FORWARD and RE- in some of thefollowing photographs. How-
VERSE gear positions. The lever must not be any ever, the split lower cowls must be installed
more difficult to move than when the throttle cable before installing the shift andlor throttle ca-
was disconnected. If the lever is now more difficult bles to the engine.
to move, the throttle cable is preloaded and the
trunnion must be readjusted to relieve the pressure 4. The throttle cable is the lower control cable in the
on the idle speedstop screw. Completely repeat Step anchor bracket. Remove the special locking clip (Figure
11 to verify any readjustment. 21) securing the cable to the throttlelspark control lever.
12. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect the Grasp the bent tip with a pair of needlenose pliers and
negative battery cable. Tighten the connection securely. gently lift it up and toward the center of the pin to unlock
the clip. See Figure 17,typical. Then remove the clip and
washer from the control lever and throttle cable.
Throttle cable removal, installation and adjustment 5. Pull the cable from the throttlelspark control lever,
(60"V4 and V6 models) anchor bracket and the control cable grommet. Then re-
move the cable from the power head.
This procedure applies to all 60" V4 and V6 remote 6. To install the throttle cable, begin by rotating the pro-
control models: 90, 115, 150 and 175hp outboard models, peller and shifting the control box into the FORWARD
all 105jet drive units and the 1998 (EC) 80 jet drive unit. gear (fullthrottle) position. Clean all old lubricant from the
throttle cable's brass sleeve. Then apply a coat of fresh
grease to the sleeve and its threads.
7. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchor
bracket's pocket.
8. To correctly position the control lever to adjust the
throttle cable, proceed as follows:
a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position.
Note the position of the control lever.
b. Rotate the propeller and move the control lever into
the FORWARD gear (idle detent) position. Note the
position of the control lever.
c. Pull the control lever halfway back to the NEU-
TRAL position. This is the midpoint of the control
lever positions in the preceding substeps.
CHAPTER TWELVE
d. When correctly positioned, the lever must be shift cable must be installed and adjusted before installing
half-way between the FORWARD gear idle detent and adjusting the throttle cable.
and the NEUTRAL position.
9. Position the throttle cable on the power head. Then po- CAUTION
sition the throttle cable's casing guide over the stud on the On 1996-2002 V6 models, the control ca-
throttlelspark control arm. Secure the cable with the flat bles, fuel and oil lines and all electrical
leads exit through a single point on thefront,
washer and the special locking clip (Figure 21). Make sure
starboard corner of the lower cowl. Refer to
the clip locks into position. Replace the clip if it is dam- Figure 18for the proper position of each ca-
aged or does not lock into position. ble, line and lead in the grommet. Failure to
10. Hold the throttle cable's adjustablebarrel over the an- properly position the cables, lines and leads
chor pocket on the power head. Finnly pull the barrel to can result infueWoil restrictionsAeaks,dam-
seat the throttlelspark control lever against its stop on the aged electrical leads and/or binding control
flywheel cover (refer to Chapter Five). Then adjust the bar- cables.
rel as necessary to allow the barrel to slip into the pocket.
11. Reinstall the control cable grommet over the control 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
cables and slide it into position over the screw hole in the Then disconnect and ground the spark plug leads to pre-
lower cowl. The cut side of the grommet must face away vent accidental starting.
from the lower cowl. Then hold the throttle and shift cable NOTE
barrels into their pockets in the anchor bracket and install On some models, it may prove easiest to re-
the clamp and screw. Tighten the screw (Figure 15) to move the starboard split lower cowl to gain
60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N-m). better access to the control cables. Refer to
12. Venfy the adjustment as follows: Power head removal/installation in Chapter
a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position. Eight.
b. Raise the fast idle lever on the control box, then re-
2. The throttle cable is the upper control cable in the an-
turn it to its fully down and latched position. The
chor bracket on the starboard side of the power head. Re-
throttlelspark control lever must be seated against its
move the screw and clamp (B, Figure 19) securing the
stop on the flywheel cover. If not, readjust the ca-
throttle cable's adjustabletrunnion into the anchor bracket
ble's trunnion to pull the lever against its stop, then
near the front of the lower cowl.
repeat this step.
3. Remove the elastic locknut and flat washer (B, Figure
c. While rotating the propeller, move the control lever 20) securing the cable to the throttlelspark control arm.
on the control box into the FORWARD and RE-
VERSE gear positions. The lever must not be any NOTE
more difficult to move than when the throttle cable On 1996-2002 V6 models, it is necessary to
was disconnected. If the lever is now more difficult remove the two screws and metal strap se-
to move, the throttle cable is preloaded and the trun- curing the grommet into the starboard cowl.
nion must be readjusted to relieve the pressure on the
control lever stop. Completely repeat Step 12to ver- 4. Pull the cable from the throttle lever, anchor bracket
ify any readjustment. and the control cable grommet at the front of the lower
13. Install the cable (and grommet) cover (B, Figure 14). cowl. Then remove the cable from the power head.
Tighten the retaining screw (A, Figure 14) securely. CAUTION
14. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect The propeller must be manually rotated
the negative battery cable. Tighten the connection se- when shifting the gearcase into FORWARD
curely. or REVERSE gear.
5. To install the throttle cable, begin by rotating the pro-

Throttle cable removal, installation and adjustment peller and shifting the control box into the FORWARD
(90"V4, V6 and V8 loop-charged models) gear (full throttle) position. Clean all old lubricant from
the throttle cable's brass sleeve. Then apply a coat of fresh
This procedure applies only to the following 90" V4, V6 grease to the sleeve (and its threads).
and V8 loop-charged remote control outboard models: 6. Apply a liberal amount of grease into the anchor
130,200,225,250 and 300 hp. bracket pocket.
Use OMC Triple Guard Grease (or an equivalent wa- 7. To correctly position the control lever to adjust the
ter-resistant grease) for all lubrication applications. The throttle cable, proceed as follows:
REMOTE CONTROLS 565
a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position. that none of the cables, lines and hoses are
Note the position of the control lever. crushed or deformed.
b. Rotate the propeller and move the control lever into 10. Hold the throttle cable barrel into its pocket in the
the FORWARD gear (idle detent) position. Note the
anchor bracket and install the clamp and screw. Tighten the
position of the control lever.
screw to 60-84 in.-lb. (6.8-9.5 N.m). Then reinstall the
c. Pull the control lever halfway back to the NEU- grommet and push it fumy into the lower cowl. On appli-
TRAL position. This is the midpoint of the control cable V6 models, make sure all lines, cables and leads are
lever positions in the preceding substeps. routed as shown in Figure 18.
d. When correctly positioned, the lever must be half- 11. Venfy the adjustment as follows:
way between the FORWARD gear idle detent and a. Shift the control box into the NEUTRAL position.
the NEUTRAL position.
b. Raise the fast idle lever on the control box, then
8. Position the throttle cable on the power head. Then return it to its fully down and latched position. The
position the throttle cable's casing guide over the stud on idle speedlstop screw must be seated against its
the throttlelspark control arm. Secure the cable with the power head stop. If not, readjust the cable's trunnion
flat washer and elastic locknut (B, Figure 20). Replace the to pull the stop screw against its stop, then repeat this
locknut if it can be threaded on by hand. Tighten the
step.
locknut securely.
c. While rotating the propeller, move the control lever
9. Hold the throttle cable's adjustable barrel over the on the control box into the FORWARD and RE-
anchor pocket on the power head. Firmly pull the barrel to VERSE gear positions. The lever must not be any
seat the idle speedstop screw against its power head stop. more difficult to move than when the throttle cable
Then adjust the barrel as necessary to allow the barrel to was disconnected. If the lever is now more difficult
slip into the pocket. to move, the throttle cable is preloaded and the
trunnion must be readjusted to relieve the pressure
NOTE
On 1996-1998V6 models, afer pushing the on the idle s p d s t o p screw. Completely repeat Step
grommet into the lower cowl, reinstall the 11 to venfy any readjustment.
metal strap and secure it with two screws. 12. Reconnect the spark plug leads. Then reconnect the
Tighten the screws securely, then make sure negative battery cable. Tighten the connection securely.
Fastener
Table 1 SPECIAL TORQUE VALUES
in.-lb. ft.-lb. Nem
.
OMC standard slde mount control box
Control handle mounting screw 100-120 10-12 113-13.6
Three cover screws 40-50 - 4.5-5.7
lgnitlon switch bezel nut 20-25 - 2.3-2.8
Neutral safety switch 15-20 - 1.7-2.3
Warning horn (1995 models) 15-20 - 1.7-2.3

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


SUPPLEMENT
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION (FFI) SERVICE INFORMATION
This supplement provides test, maintenance, adjust-

ment, repair procedures and specifications unique to the
fuel, ignition, lubrication and battery charging systems
used on 1997-2002 Evinrude/Johnson outboards with the
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) system. All other service proce-
dures are identical to the models without FFI and are cov-
ered in the main body of the manual.
This supplement is divided into sections that corre-
spond to the chapters in the main body of the manual.
Specifications unique to FFI are in the tables at the end of
the appropriate sections. Refer to the index to quickly lo-
cate the desired section.
1 1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 567
SUPPLEMENT TO
CHAPTER ONE
All Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) models use a direct fuel in- spent exhaust gasses. Compared to the typical two-stroke
jection system. With this type of fuel system, the fuel is in- design used on other models, direct fuel injected engines
jected directly into the combustion chamber after the piston start easier, run smoother, emit far less unburned fuel, use
covers the exhaust port. Injecting fuel after covering the less oil and provide improved fuel economy. Figure 1
port prevents unburned fuel fi-om exiting along with the shows direct injection two-stroke engine operation.
SUPPLEMENT TO
CHAPTER THREE
NOTE Some test procedures require that the engine be connected

For many of the troubleshootingprocedures to a computer available at Evinrude/Johnson dealerships.
it is necessaiy to disconnect and reconnect If necessary, have this procedure performed by a dealer-
the engine wire harness connectors.Refer to ship.
Electrical Repairs in Chapter Threefor spe-
cial instructions on handling the wire har- If an engine malfunction occurs or the check engine
ness connectors. light illuminates, first perform a through visual inspection
of the engine. Never overlook the obvious. Check for
Troubleshooting is a process of testing individual sys- loose wiring and disconnected or leaking hoses. Check
tems for the purpose of isolating good systems from de- the condition of the battery and battery cable connections.
fective of non-functional systems. When a system is The Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) system cannot operate
identified as defective or non-functional, troubleshooting properly with a faulty battery or loose/corroded cable ter-
continues with testing the individual components of the minals. If nothing turns up in the visual inspection, check
suspect system. for old, stale or contaminated fuel. Regardless of the type
The Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) system is not difficult to of fuel system used, an outboard cannot operate properly
troubleshoot if approached in a logical manner. Most of if consuming stale or contaminated fuel. If no problem is
the troubleshooting procedures can be performed with found with the fuel, check the spark plugs as described in
common test equipment available from tool suppliers. All Chapter Four. Spark plug fouling is a common source of
FFI models are equipped with dash mounted warning engine malfunction on outboards with direct fuel injec-
light module. On some models, the warning lights are in- tion. Using the wrong type or improperly installing the
tegrated into the tachometer (Figure 2). In addition to in- spark plugs will also cause the engine to malfunction. Af-
dicating engine overheating, low oil level or inadequate ter checking the spark plugs, check the mechanical integ-
oil flow, the check engine light indicates if a fault is de- rity of the engine. Often times the inexperienced
tected in the FFI system. Faults are identified by reading technician will become focused on the fuel injection sys-
the flashing light sequence of the check engine light. tem and completely overlook mechanical failure in one or
SUPPLEMENT
TWO-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

OPTIMAX MODELS (DIRECT INJECTION)
1. As the piston travels downward, it uncovers the 2. While the crankshaft continues to rotate, the piston
exhaust port (A) allowing the exhaust gases to leave the moves upward, covering the transfer (B) and exhaust
cylinder. A fresh air-oil charge, which has been ports (A). The piston compresses the fresh-air oil charge
compressed slightly in the crankcase, enters the cylinder and creates a low-pressure area in the crankcase. A
through the transfers port (B). Since this charge enters computer controlled electronic pump delivers a precise
under pressure, it also helps to push out the exhaust amount of oil into the crankcase through a dedicated
gases. passage (D). The fresh air-oil charge is drawn into the
crankcase through the intake opening (C). With both the
transfer and exhaust ports closed, the computer
controlled direct injector sprays the required amount of
fuel into the combusiton chamber.
3. As the piston almost reaches the top of its ravel, the

spark plug fires, igniting the compressed air-fuel mixture.
The piston contines to top dead center (TDC) and is
pushed downward by the expanding gasses. 4. As the piston travels downward, the exhaust gasses
leave the cylinder and the cycle starts all over again.
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 569
more cylinders. Check the engine compression as delivery system, engine control system, ignition system and
scribed in Chapter Four. the charging system (alternator). Significant changes
If the battery and cables, fuel, spark plugs and mechani- were made during the model years covered in this manual.
cal integrity of the engine are satisfactory, refer to Tables These changes are described in this section.
1-4 at the end of this section for fuel, electronic control, Except for the pistons, the basic power head used on
ignition, and charging system troubleshooting. Perform FFI models is virtually identical to the power head used
the test or inspection indicated for the applicable symp- on carburetor equipped models with the same horsepower
tom listed in the tables. All test procedures are described rating and cylinder configuration. All 90 and 115 hp FFI
in the Supplement to Chapter Three section. models use a 60" V-4 power head. All 150 and 175 FFI
Before beginning the test procedures, refer to Ficht Sys- models use a 60" V-6 power head. All 200 and 225 FFI
tem Operation in the section to become familiar with how models use a 90" V-6 power head.
the system operates and to assist with locating the FFI sys-
tem components.
Fuel Delivery System
ELECTRICAL COMPONENT REPLACEMENT The function of the fuel delivery system is to provide
fuel at the required pressure to the direct fuel injectors.
Most marine dealerships and parts supplierswill not ac- Refer to Figure 3 for this description. Fuel delivery starts
cept the return of any electrical part. If the exact cause of at the fuel tank. Crankcase pressure and vacuum pulses
any electrical system malfunction cannot be determined, power the diaphragm fuel pump (5, Figure 3) in a similar
have a EvinrudeIJohnson dealership retest that specific manner as the fuel pump used on a typical carburetor
system to verify your test results. If you purchase a new equipped outboard. The diaphragm pump pulls the fuel
electrical component(s), install it, and then find that the from the on-board fuel tank. The oil delivery system intro-
system still does not work properly, you will probably be duces a small amount of oil into the fuel pump using a
unable to return the unit for a refund. dedicated hose and fitting (2, Figure 3) where it mixes
Consider any test results carefully before replacing a with the fuel in the pump housing. The pump moves the
component that tests on slightly out of specification, espe- fuel and oil mixture then moves it to the water separating
cially resistance. A number of variables can affect test re- fuel filter (Figure 4). The oil mixed into the fuel lubri-
sults dramatically. These include: internal circuitry of the cates the direct injectors and other fuel system compo-
test meter, ambient temperature and conditions under nents.
which the machine has been operated.
All instructions and specifications have been checked
for accuracy; however, successful test results, depend to a Water separating fuel fllter
great extent upon individual accuracy.
The water separating fuel filter is equipped with a sen-
sor (7, Figure 3). Wiring connects the sensor directly to
FICHT SYSTEM OPERATION the engine control unit (ECU) or engine management
module (EMM). If sufficient water enters the filter, the
The Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) system includes five ma- sensor completes a circuit to ground. This signals the
jor systems. This includes the fuel delivery system, oil de- ECU or EMM to illuminate the dash mounted check en-
gine light. This occurs if the water in the filter reaches or
exceeds a depth of approximately 318 in. (9.5 mm). A de-
lay feature in the ECU or EMM delays the check engine
light illumination until the sensor remains grounded for
30 seconds or longer. This prevents normal boat move-
ment from creating a false warning.
Vapor separator tank
The vapor separator tank (Figure 5) houses the float,

the inlet needle valve and seat, tank vent valves, the fuel
pressure regulator and the water jacket. The float raises as
fuel enters the tank through the inlet valve and seat. The
570 SUPPLEMENT
float closes the inlet valve when the fuel reaches the nor- and starboard side of the power head. On 2000-2002 mod-
mal full level. The float mounted tank vent valve allows els, the exiting water passes through a hose leading to the
air to escape while fuel enters the tank. The float, needle water jacket for the E M . The heat generated £rom nor-
and seat regulate the amount of fuel entering the tank to mal engine operation may cause vapor pressure to form
maintain the desired fuel level in the vapor separator tank. within the vapor separator tank. If excessive vapor pres-
A fitting on the power head mounting adapter supplies sure forms it pushes down on the fuel with enough force to
cooling water to a fitting on the bottom of the water jacket effectively lower the fuel level. If this occurs, the float
(9, Figure 3). Water flows through the water jacket, cools will drop along with the fuel level, causing a float
the fuel reservoir, then exits the fitting near the top of the mounted valve to open the vent at the top of the tank. This
tank (11, Figure 3). On 1997-1999 models, the exiting allows excess vapor pressure to escape through the vent
water passes through a hose leading to a fitting on the rear hose (12, Figure 3) and pass into the intake manifold. The
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM

(FICHT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM [FFI])
1. Fuel supply hose 10. Waterinlet hose from

(from vessel mounted power head mounting adapter
fuel tank) 11. Water oulet hose
2. Oil inlet hose to rear starboard side of
(from electric fuel pup) power head or EMM water jacket
3. Crank case pulse hose 12. Vent hose (to inlet silencer)
4. Crankcase pulse hose 13. Fuel pressure regulator
5. Diaphragm fuel pump 14. Electric fuel pump
(pulse driven) 15. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 2)
6. Water separating fuel 16. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 4)
filter 17. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 6)*
7. Water in fuel sensor 18. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 1)
8. Vapor separator tank 19. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 3)
9. Water jacket (fuel cooler) 20. Direct fuel injector (cylinder No. 5)*
*Not used on V-4 models
fuel vapor is then burned along with the air entering the regulator allows the fuel to return to the vapor separator
engine. This feature combined with the water jacket helps tank only when the pressure reaches approximately 20-30
prevent vapor bubbles from forming in the fuel system. psi (138-207 kPa). The electric fuel pump has a capacity
exceeding the maximum demands of the direct injectors,
assuring that excess fuel continuously passes through the
Electricfuelpump operation
direct injectors and returns to the vapor separator tank.
A fitting at the bottom of the vapor separator tank and The continual re-circulation of the fuel assures adequate
hose supply fuel to the electric fuel pump (14, Figure 3). cooling of the injectors and purges any vapor bubbles
The ECU or EMM uses a dedicated relay to switch the from the fuel system.
electric pump on and off. Switching the ignition switch to
the on or run position, without starting the engine, will Direct injector operation
cause the electric pump to operate for ten seconds then
shut off. This removes air or vapor from the high pressure The direct injectors are solenoid activated fuel pumps.
fuel hoses and primes the system for starting. The electric The injectors are controlled solely by the ECU or EMM.
fuel pump operates continuously while cranking the en- When activated, the injector plunger injects the fuel, un-
gine or anytime the engine is running. If the ignition sys- der very high pressure, directly into the cylinder. Activa-
tem is operating, the fuel pump should operate. tion occurs when the ECU or EMM completes the ground
The electric fuel pump (Figure 6 ) moves fuel to the di- circuit for the injector. This allows current to flow through
rect fuel injectors. The injectors are mounted on the cylin- the injector coil winding; creating a strong magnetic field.
der head and in close proximity to the spark plugs. The The magnetic field moves the injector plunger that serves
fuel flows into and fills the plunger cavity within the in- as the fuel pump. After activating the injector, the ECU or
jector. The fuel then passes through and cools the injectors EMM opens the ground circuit for the coil winding and
- coil before passing through the return hose to the fuel the magnetic field dissipates. An internal spring returns
pressure regulator (13, Figure 3). To maintain the fuel the plunger to the normal position allowing the cavity to
pressure required by the direct injectors, the fuel pressure fill with fuel in preparation for the next cycle.
The direct injectors used on 1997-1999 90-175 hp mod-
els operate on 26 volts. All 2000-2002 90-175 hp and
1999-2002 200-225 hp models operate on 40 volts.
Oil Delivery System
The oil delivery system supplies all of the lubricating

oil to the power head. Unlike the typical two-stroke out-
board, oil is never added to the fuel tank, even during the
break-in period. Since the fuel is injected directly into the
cylinder, adding oil to the fuel will not provide lubrication
to the internal power head components. Adding oil to the
fuel tank will cause spark plug fouling, increased combus-
SUPPLEMENT
tion chamber deposits, excessive exhaust smoking and electric oil pump operates, oil flows through the check
poor performance. valves, oil hoses and into the crankcases. After activating
The oil delivery system consists of the on-board oil res- the pump, the ECU or EMM opens the ground circuit for
ervoir, diaphragm oil pump, electric oil pump, oil pressure the coil windmg and the magnetic field dissipates. An in-
switch, oil pressure regulator, oil hose check valves and ternal spring returns the plunger to the normal position al-
related hoses (Figure 7). lowing the cavity to fill with oil in preparation for the next
cycle.
Diaphragm oilpump operation Oil delivery is controlled by the ECU or EMM and var-
Oil delivery starts at the on-board oil reservoir (1, ies by engine speed, load and temperature. During the
Figure 7). Vacuum pulses created by crankcase pres- break-in period, the ECU or EMM activates the oil pump
sure power the diaphragm oil pump (5, Figure 7). The at double the normal frequency. This doubles the normal
diaphragm oil pump pulls oil from the on-board oil res- oil delivery. The increased oiling occurs only during the
ervoir and moves it to the electric oil pump (8, Figure initial five hours of operation and at engine speeds of
7). After completely filling the cavities within the elec- 2000 rpm and greater. During the break-in period, maxi-
tric oil pump, the oil exits and flows to the oil pressure mum the fuel to oil ratio is 50:l. After the five hour
regulator (3, Figure 7). The oil pressure regulator al- break-in period, the oil delivery returns to the normal rate.
lows the oil to return to the on-board oil reservoir only During cold starting, engine temperature below 105' F
when the pressure reaches approximately 6-20 psi (41" C), the ECU or EMM will initiate the priming mode
(4 1- 138 kPa). The diaphragm oil pump has a capacity and rapidly pulse the oil pump for approximately 20 sec-
exceeding the demands of the electric oil pump; assur- onds. This will purge air bubbles that may form in the oil
ing that excess oil is continuously passing through the hoses while the engine is not running. This prevents a po-
electric oil pump and returning to the on-board oil res- tential lapse in oil delivery.
ervoir. The continual re-circulation of the oil ensures
NOTE
adequate cooling of the oil pump and purges any air
The break-in oiling period must be reset in
bubbles from the system. the ECU or EMM if the power head is re-
placed or if internal power head compo-
Electric oilpump operation nents are replaced. To reset the break-in, the
engine must be connected to a computer
available at Evinrude/Johnson dealerships.
The electric oil pump is a solenoid activated pump and Have this procedure performed by a dealer-
is similar in appearance and design to the direct fuel injec- ship.
tor used in the fuel delivery system. However, the electri-
cal oil pump is not interchangeable with the direct fuel
injectors. The oil pump used on 1997-1999 90-175 hp Oil pressure switch operation
models operates on 26 volts. All 2000-2002 90-175 hp
and 1999-2002 200-225 hp models operate on 40 volts. The oil pressure switch (6, Figure 7) threads into the
The pump activates when the ECU or EMM completes outlet fitting on the diaphragm oil pump. Current is sup-
the ground circuit for the pump. This allows current to plied to the switch by the ECU or EMM. The switch is de-
flow through the pump coil winding; creating a strong signed to switch from a closed to an open circuit when the
magnetic field. The magnetic field moves the injector oil pressure reaches or exceeds 3-5 psi (20.7-34.5 kPa).
plunger causing it to inject oil into the oil distribution The tadwhite switch wire connects to the ECU or EMM.
block (9, Figure 7). The oil distribution block contains a Since the oil pressure is regulated to approximately 6-20
check valve and oil outlet hose fitting for each cylinder. psi (41-138 kPa), the switch remains open during normal
Hoses connect each outlet fitting to its corresponding fit- engine operation. If the oil pressure should drop below the
ting on the intake manifold or cylinder block fitting. Each switching pressure, the switch closes the circuit, ground-
hose is of equal length to assure consistent oil delivery to ing the tadwhite wire. The ECU or EMM then illuminates
each cylinder. The check valves (10, Figure 7) prevent oil the No Oil light, sounds the warning horn and initiates the
from flowing back into the distribution block when the en- speed limited operational warning (SLOW) system to re-
gine is not running. One additional outlet (12, Figure 7) duce engine speed to a maximum of 1800 rpm. This is ac-
supplies oil to the inlet fitting on the diaphragm fuel complished by progressively stopping fuel delivery to one
pump. A check valve (11, Figure 7) in this hose prevents cylinder at a time. During SLOW operation the ECU or
fuel from entering the oil delivery system. Each time the EMM will allow fuel delivery on only a single cylinder.
OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM

(FICHT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM [FFI])
1. On-board oil reservoir 10. Oil oultet check valve

2. Oil level switch (one per cylinder)
3. Oil pressure regulator 11. Oil outlet check valve
4. Crankcase pulse hose 12. To diaphragm fuel pump
5. Diaphragm oil pump 13. To No. 1 throttle opening
(pulse type) 14. To No. 1 throttle opening
6. Oil pressure switch 15. To No. 5 throttle opening*
7. Crankcase pulse hose 16. To No. 2 throttle opening
8. Electric oil pump 17. To No. 4 throttle opening
9. Oil distribution block 18. To No. 6 throttle opening*
* This component is not used on V-4 models
SUPPLEMENT
The reduction in speed can help minimize engine damage moved, the ECU or EMM may overheat and
if conditions prevent the operator from immediately stop- fail.
ping the engine. Normal engine operation can resume
only after reducing the throttle to idle speed and correct- The ECU or EMM receives input fiom various sensors,
ing the condition causing low oil pressure. A delay feature then computes the fuel requirement for the given engine
prevents activation of the no oil warning during the first speed, engine temperature, air temperature, throttle open-
20 seconds after starting the engine. This allows ample ing and load. The ECU of EMM controls fuel delivery by
time for the diaphragm pump to develop adequate oil the altering the frequency and duration of the electrical
pressure. During normal operation, the delay feature pre- pulse that activates the direct injectors. The frequency of
vents a no oil warning unless the switch remains closed injector activation is determined by the engine speed. The
for at least 15 seconds. This prevents normal wave action ignition system provides the input indicating the engine
and subsequent jarring of the switch from creating a false speed. The amount of fuel delivered in each cycle is con-
warning. trolled by the duration of time in which the injector acti-
vates (Figure 10).
The duration of the electrical pulse controls the stroke
Engine Control System length of the injector plunger. If the ECU or EMM acti-
vates the injector for a longer than normal duration, the
pulse stroke is longer and a greater amount of fuel is in-
The engine control system consists of the engine jected into the cylinder. Likewise, a shorter than normal
mounted microprocessor (Figure 8) and various sensors. duration pulse will result in a shorter stroke and a lesser
The microcomputer controls the delivery, oil delivery, ig- amount of fuel injected into the cylinder.
nition and the warning system operation. An internal pro- The ECU or EMM uses input from the crankshaft posi-
gram contains operating parameters for all sensors along tion sensor to compute the optimum ignition timing for
with the fuel, oil and igmtion timing for a given engine the given engine operating conditions. Since the ignition
model. Never substitutethe microcomputer with one from
a different model engine. Doing so may cause serious
power head damage, increased exhaust emissions andlor
poor operating characteristics.
Two different types of microprocessors are used on FFI
models. On 1997-1999 models, the microprocessor is re-
ferred to as the engine control unit (ECU). On 2000-2002
models, the microprocessor is referred to as the engine
management module (EMM). On 90-175 hp, the ECU or
EMM mounts on top of the power head and to the rear of
the flywheel. On 200 and 225 hp, the ECU or EMM
mounts onto the rear of the power head. For cooling pur-
poses, a fan integrated into the flywheel (Figure 9) directs
air onto the ECU or EMM and other electrical compo-
nents. Since the engine cover helps direct air flow, it must
be installed while running the engine. In addition to air
cooling, the ECU or EMM used on 1999-2002 models is
water cooled. Water exiting the vapor separator tank water
jacket flows through the ECU or EMM, absorbing heat,
before exiting through a hose leading to the power head
mounting base.
CA UTION
The engine cover directs the airflow from
the flywheel fan onto the ECU or EMM
and other electrical components. For opti-
mum cooling efficiency, the engine cover
must be installed while running the en-
gine. Ifthe engine is run with the cover re-
system is controlled solely by the ECU or EMM, it is able

to adjust the i p t i o n timing accordingly.
Longer duration
CrankshajZposition sensor operation
The ECU or EMM computes the precise time to acti-

vate each injector by monitoring the pulses generated by
the crankshaft position sensor (Figure 11). The crankshaft
position sensor generates electrical pulses as encoder ribs
Direct (Figure 12), cast into the flywheel,pass next to the sensor
More
injector
Fuel inlet
fuel tip. Uneven spacing between the ribs generates uneven
pauses between the electrical pulses. These pulses are di-
rected to the ECU or EMM where they are used to deter-
mine the exact position of each piston relative to the top of
its compression stroke (TDC). This allows the ECU or
EMM to activate the injector for the corresponding cylin-
der at the proper time. The ECU or EMM also uses the
crankshaft position sensor pulses to control the ignition
system and generate the pulsating signal that operates the
Less dash mounted tachometer. If the crankshaft position sen-
fuel
sor fails, the engine will not operate.
Engine temperature sensor operation
The engine temperature sensor (Figure 13) is located in

the port side cylinder head. The pinkhlack wire connects
directs current from the ECU or EMM into the sensor. The
black wire of the sensor leads into the ECU or EMM. The
resistance to current flow through the sensor changes
along with the temperature of the cooling water in the cyl-
inder head. The sensor resistance effects current flow
through the sensor; allowing the ECU or EMM to calcu-
late the actual engine temperature. A cool engine requires
more fuel, whereas a warm engine requires less fuel. The
ECU or EMM uses input from the engine temperature
sensor to calculate the optimum amount of fuel for the
given engine temperature. If the engine temperature sen-
sor indicates that the temperature has exceeded a prepro-
SUPPLEMENT
grarnmed limit, the ECU or EMM illuminates the Water Air pressure sensor operation
Temp or Hot warning light, sounds the warning horn and
initiates the speed limiting operational warning (SLOW) The air pressure sensor is integrated into the ECU or
system to reduce engine speed to a maximum of 1800 EMM (Figure 16). Apassage in the ECU or EMM allows
rpm. This is accomplished by progressively stopping fuel the sensor to read the ambient (barometric) air pressure.
delivery to one cylinder at a time. During SLOW opera- The passage is sealed to prevent moisture in the air from
tion the ECU or EMM will allow fuel delivery on only a entering the ECU or EMM circuits. Air pressure has a di-
single cylinder. The reduction in speed can help minimize rect impact on air density and oxygen content. Air pres-
engine damage if conditions prevent the operator fkom sure is generally higher at lower elevations and decreases
immediately stopping the engine. Normal engine opera- as elevation increases. Since air density and oxygen den-
tion can resume only after reducing the throttle to idle sity increases with air pressure, an engine consuming air
speed and correcting the cause of overheating. at sea level requires more fuel than one operating at a
Air temperature sensor operation
The air temperature sensor (Figure 14) is located in the

lower starboard side of the silencer cover. The mounting
arrangement positions the sensor tip into the path of the
air flowing into the engine. Air temperature has a direct
impact on air density and oxygen content. An engine con-
suming cooler and denser air requires more fuel than one
consuming warmer less dense air. The ECU or EMM di-
rects current into the sensor using the pinkhlue wire. The
black wire of the sensor leads into the ECU or EMM. The
resistance to current flow through the sensor changes with
the temperature of the air entering the throttle openings.
The sensor resistance affects current flow through the sen-
sor; allowing the ECU or Eh4M to calculate the tempera-
ture of the incoming air and alter fuel delivery
accordingly.
Throttleposition sensor operation
The throttle position sensor (Figure 15) is located on

the upper starboard side of the power head or on the front
of the power head and just below the flywheel. The sensor
arm contacts and moves along with the throttle shaft or
cam that opens and closes the throttle shutters.This sensor
is a potentiometer and works similar to the light dimmer
switchused on an automobile. The ECU or EMM supplies
current to the sensor (red wire). The black and green sen-
sor wires lead into the ECU or EMM. Moving the sensor
lever results in a corresponding change in the voltage at
the green wire. The voltage increases as the throttle opens
and decreases as the throttle closes. The ECU or EMM
uses the voltage value to compute the actual throttle open- sensor
ing and alter fuel delivery accordingly. If the throttle posi-
tion reading should exceed the preprogramrned limits, the
ECU or EMM will illuminate the Check Engine light and ECU or EMM
not allow the engine to exceed idle speed.
higher elevation. The ECU or EMM uses the sensor input moves the diaphragm, causing it to apply the same pres-
to determine optimum fuel delivery for changing weather sure to the air on the other side the diaphragm. This pres-
conditions and automatic altitude compensation up to ap- sure is in turn applied to the exhaust pressure sensor in the
proximately 14,000 ft. above sea level. Unlike most other EMM. This arrangement allows the sensor to accurately
engine sensors, the air pressure sensor cannot be replaced measure exhaust pressure without subjecting the sensor to
separately. potential damage from moisture and uneven pressure
pulses.
Exhaust pressure sensor operation Exhaust pressure indicates the load on the engine. Ex-
haust pressure increases during acceleration and when the
An exhaust pressure sensor is used on 2000-2002 mod- engine is subjected to a higher than normal load, such as
els. The exhaust pressure sensor is part of the EMM (Fig- pulling a water skier. For optimum engine operation, the
ure 17). Hoses connect the exhaust pressure sensor to the engine requires more fuel at higher loads and less fuel at
exhaust pressure diaphragm fitting and the other exhaust lower loads. Exhaust pressure decreases during decelera-
pressure diaphragm fitting to the pulse limiter fitting. An tion and when the engine is running at part throttle cruis-
additional hose connects the remaining pulse limiter fit- ing speeds. The sensor creates a varying voltage value
ting to a fitting leading into the exhaust passage. Exhaust with corresponding changes in exhaust pressure. The
pressure pulses pass through the hose and fitting then into EMM uses the the sensor voltage to compute the pressure
the pulse limiter. The limiter evens out the pressure pulses in the exhaust passages and alter the fuel delivery accord-
to provide a steady representation of the average exhaust ingly. The exhaust pressure sensor cannot be replaced
pressure. This pressure is applied to the exhaust pressure separately.
diaphragm. During engine operation, exhaust pressure
Engine temperature switch operation

-
- The engine temperature switch (Figure 18) is located in
the starboard side cylinder head. The ECU or EMM sup-
plies current to the sensor (taniblack wire). If the engine
IExhaust pressure diaphragm
Pulse limiter
temperature reaches or exceeds the switching limit, it
closes its internal circuit, grounding the tadblack wire.
This signals the ECU or EMM that the engine is overheat-
ing. The ECU or EMM then illuminates the Water Temp or
Hot warning light, sounds the warning horn and initiates
\ the speed limiting operationalwarning (SLOW) system to
Exhaust pressure sensor reduce engine speed to a maximum of 1800 rpm. This is
accomplished by progressively stopping fuel delivery to
i one cylinder at a time. During SLOW operation the ECU
EMM /
or EMM will allow fuel delivery on only a single cylinder.
The reduction of speed can help minimize engine damage
if conditions prevent the operator from immediately stop-
ping the engine. Normal engine operation can resume
only after reducing the throttle to idle speed and correct-
ing the cause for overheating.
EMM or ECU temperature sensor
The EMM or ECU temperature sensor is located within

the EMM or ECU housing. The resistance to current flow
through the sensor changes with the temperature of the
EMM or ECU circuits. The sensor resistance affects cur-
rent flow through the sensor and allows the ECU or EMM
to calculate the temperature of its circuits. Overheating
578 SUPPLEMENT
circuits will usually cause one or more of the driver cir- period, even ifthe switch does not return to the normal po-
cuits for the direct fuel injector to stop working. Other sition. The switch must return to the normal deactivated
EMM or ECU functions may also be affected. If the ECU position before the ECU or EMM can repeat this opera-
or EMM detects overheating, it illuminatesthe Check En- tion. Also the ECU or EMM will not react to the shift in-
gine light and initiates the speed limiting operational tempt switch input at engine speeds exceeding 2500 rpm.
warning (SLOW) system to reduce engine speed to a max-
imum of 1800rpm. This is accomplished by progressively
Charging system output sensor
stopping fuel delivery to one cylinder at a time. During
SLOW operation the ECU or EMM will allow fuel deliv- The direct injectors and electric oil pump operate on ei-
ery to only a single cylinder. Normal engine operation can ther 26 VDC or 40 VDC provided by the charging system.
resume only after reducing the throttle to idle speed and Circuitswithin the ECU or EMM monitor the output from
correcting the cause for overheating. If this circuit is acti- the charging system. If the output voltage exceeds the nor-
vated, check for inadequate water flow through the cool- mal level, the ECU or EMM illuminates the Check Engine
ing jacket or operating the engine for an extended time light then initiates the speed limiting operational warning
with the engine cover removed. (SLOW) system to reduce engine speed to a maximum of
If the sensor fails open or indicates a significantlylower 1800 rpm. This is accomplished by progressively stop-
than normal temperature, the ECU or EMM will illumi- ping fuel delivery to one cylinder at a time. During SLOW
nate the CheckEngine light. The SLOW system is not ini- operation the ECU or EMM will allow fuel delivery on
tiated when the sensor indicates a lower than normal only a single cylinder. Normal engine operation can re-
temperature. sume only after reducing the throttle to idle speed and cor-
recting the cause for excessive voltage output.
If the circuits sense a lower than normal voltage output,
Ship interrupt switch operation the ECU or EMM will illuminate the Check Engine light.
The SLOW system is not initiated when a lower than nor-
The shift interrupt switch (Figure 19) is located on the mal voltage output is indicated.
lower starboard side of the power head. The switch is not On 2000-2002 models, the EMM contains circuits that
used on four-cylinder models. The switch mounts on a monitor the 12 volt battery charging system. If a higher or
spring loaded pivoting bracket allowing it to activate lower than normal voltage is detected, the EMM illumi-
when shifting loads meet or exceed the spring pressure. nates the Check Engine light. The EMM will not initiate
Due to the design of the clutch engagement bosses, the the SLOW system if the fault is detected only in the 12
clutch and gears in the gearcase tend to cling into gear volt battery charging system.
when loaded. This prevents the clutch from slipping
away from and disengaging the gear. Due to the running
characteristics of a typical two-stroke outboard, the Engine overspeed limiter
.-
clutch can disengage at idle speed. This occurs because

Engine overspeed protection is provided by circuits
the clutch becomes temporarily unloaded between the
within the ECU or EMM. The ECU or EMM monitors the
power pulses.
signal from the crankshaft position sensor to determine
The smooth idle running characteristics of a direct in- the actual engine speed. If the engine reaches or exceeds
jected two-stroke outboard greatly reduce the time gap be-
tween the power pulses; preventing easy disengagement
of the clutch. The shift interrupt switch reacts to shifting
load on the linkages and grounds the black/yellow wire
leading into the ECU or EMM. This signals the ECU or
EMM that the operator is shifting into neutral. The ECU
or EMM then stops fuel delivery and ignition on even
numbered cylinders for approximately three seconds.
This creates the gap in the power pulses needed to disen-
gage the clutch. When the clutch disengages, the shifting
load ceases and the switch returns to the normal position.
This opens the blacklyellow wire ground circuit, signal-
ing the ECU or EMM to return to normal operation. Nor-
mal operation will also resume after the three second time
6200 rpm, the ECU or EMM will stop fuel delivery and transformer and a capacitor. Current to generate spark at
ignition system operation on the even numbered cylin- the coils is provided by the rectifierlregulator portion of
ders. If the engine speed reaches or exceeds 6500 rpm, the the charging system. A dedicated terminal (2, Figure -
21)
ECU or EMM stops fuel delivery and ignition system op- on the power distribution panel supplies 26 volts to the ig-
eration on all cylinders. Normal operation returns when nition module. The transformer, within the ignition mod-
the engine speed is reduced to the normal operating range. ule, increases the 26 volt current to approximately 250
volts and stores it in the capacitor for later release.
Start delayfunction These models use three double coil units (8-10, Figure
21). Each coil unit contains two primary and two second-
The start delay relay (Figure 20) is located on the upper ary windings; allowing the coils to operate independently.
starboard side of the power head and near the EMM. This The coils mount onto and ground to the engine through
component is used only on 2000-2002 models. The relay the ignition module.
is an integral part of the start delay function. The start de- The SCR switches function like solid state high speed
lay function creates a slight delay between placing the ig- relays. The SCR switches are controlled by the ECU. The
nition key switch in the start position and the activation of ECU directs an electricalpulse to activate the SCR for the
the starter motor. This slight delay allows time for the air cylinder that is currently in the firing position. When acti-
pressure sensor to sense the barometric pressure and the vated, the SCR closes a circuit that directs the current
EMM to alter fuel delivery accordingly. Current from the stored in the ignition module capacitor to the primary
start terminal of the ignition key switch is directed to the winding in its respective ignition coil. A strong magnetic
start delay relay and the EMM. After the short delay pe- field forms as the current flows through the coil primary
riod, the EMM activatesthe delay relay which directs cur- winding. As it builds, the field passes through the second-
rent to the starter relay. The starter relay then activates the ary coil windmg, creating very high voltage. This voltage
starter motor. is hrected through the spark plug lead to the spark plug.
The voltage may exceed 35,000 volts and is hgh enough
to jump the spark plug gap under normal operating condi-
Ignition System Operation tions. After discharging, the transformer recharges the ca-
(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981) pacitor in preparation for the next cycle.
The ignition system consist of the engine control unit The crankshaft position sensor generates electrical
(ECU), ignition module, power relay, crankshaft position pulses as encoder ribs (Figure 12), cast into the flywheel,
sensor and the ignition coils. pass next to the sensor tip. Uneven spacing between the
Power to operate the ignition system is provided by the ribs generates uneven pauses between the electricalpulses
battery and the charging system. The power relay (1, Fig- The ECU computes the piston firing positions the moni-
ure 21) energizes when the ignition key is placed in the toring the uneven pulses generatedby the crankshaft posi-
run position. The energized relay supplies battery voltage tion sensor (Figure 11). The ECU also uses the crankshaft
(approximately 12 volt) to the ECU (4, Figure 21) and the position sensor pulses to create pulsating signal that oper-
ignition module (7). This switches on both components. ates the dash mounted tachometer. If the crankshaft posi-
The ignition module contains four or six silicone con- tion sensor fails, the engine will not operate. The ECU
trolled rectifier (SCR) switches (one per cylinder), a uses input from various sensors to compute and deliver
the optimum ignition timing advance for the given operat-
ing conditions.
To help facilitate complete combustion, the ECU oper-
ates in a multiple spark mode at throttle settings below 16
percent, which creates complete combustion during the
firing event. At higher throttle settings, the ECU operates
in the single spark mode; creating a single spark for each
firing event. The increased combustion chamber turbu-
lence occurring at higher throttle settings provides a more
combustible airlfuel mixture and multiple sparks are not
required.
Since the direct injectors spray fuel near the firing tip,
the spark plugs must be installed with correct gap orienta-
tion. Otherwise, the ground electrode of the spark plugs
580 SUPPLEMENT
may divert fuel away fiom the firing tips, causing a mis- relay, the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition coils.
fire and adversely affecting the engines operating effi- All 1998 and 1999 models use an ECU whereas
ciency. Spark plug installation is described in the Chapter 2000-2002 models use the EMM. Refer to Figure 22 for
Four section of this chapter. this description.
Power to operate the ignition system is provided by the
Ignition System Operation battery and the charging system. The power relay (1, Fig-
(90-115 hp [1998-20021 and 150-225 hp 11999-20021) ure 22) energizes when the ignition key is placed in the
run position. The energized relay supplies battery voltage
The ignition system consist of the engine control unit (approximately 12 volt) to the ECU or EMM (4, Figure
(ECU) or engine management module (EMM), the power 22).
IGNITION SYSTEM
(150 AND 175 HP MODELS [I
997-19981)
2 3
*--
'~ " 1 ~ 1 '
4
:,5 I
9
'-6-0 -
=-
7 = -
10
1. Power relay 6. Flywheel

2. 26 VDC power terminal 7. Ignition module
3. 12 VDC power terminal 8. Ignition coil unit (cylinders 2 and 1)
(from power relay) 9. Ignition coil unit (cylinders 3 and 4)'
4. Engine control unit (ECU) 10. Ignition coil unit (cylinders 5 and 6)'
5. Crankshait position sensor
*This component is not used on V-4 models
The ignition control circuits within the ECU or EMM On 2000-2002 models, the rectifierlregulator for the
contain four or six silcone controled rectifier (SCR) charging system is integrated into the EMM. An internal
switches (one per cylinder), a transformer and a capacitor. circuit supplies 40 volts to the EMM ignition control cir-
Current to generate spark at the coils is provided by the cuits.
charging system.
The transformer increases the 26 or 40 volt current to
On 90-115hp (1998and 1999)and 150-225hp (1999)a approximately 250 volts and stores it in the internal capac-
dedicated terminal (2,Figure 22) on the power distribu- itor for later release.
tion panel supplies charging system current to the ECU.
The power distribution panel is located under the plastic All V-4models use two double coil units. Each coil unit
cover on the upper starboard side of the power head. The (8 and 9,Figure 22) contains two primary and two sec-
charging system supplies 26 volts for 90-175hp and 40 ondary windings; allowing the coils to operate independ-
volts for 200 and 225 hp. ently.
IGNITION SYSTEM
(90-115 HP MODELS [I998-2002]
AND 150-225 MODELS [ I 999-2002])
1. Power relay 5. Crankshaft position sensor

2. 26 or 40 VDC power terminal 6. Flywheel
(1999 only) 7. Single ignition coil unit*
3. 12 VDC Power terminal 8. Double ignition coil unit
(from power terminal) 9. Double ignition coil unit
4. Engine control unit (ECU) or 10. Single ignition coil unit*
engine management module (EMM)
*This component is not used on V 4 models
582 SUPPLEMENT
All V-4 models use two double coil units and two single tings below 16 percent, which creates complete combus-
coil units. The double coil units operate independently tion during the firing event. At higher throttle settings, the
and provide spark for two cylinders. The single coil units ECU or EMM operates in the single spark mode to create
provide spark for one cylinder. a single spark for each firing event. The increased com-
The SCR switches function as solid state high speed re- bustion chamber turbulence occurring at higher throttle
lays and are controlled by the ignition control circuits settings provides a more combustible airlfuel mixture and
within the ECU or EMM. Each SCR is connected via wir- multiple sparks are not required.
ing and internal circuitry to the primary coil winding in its
respective ignition coil. The ignition control circuits di-
rect an electricalpulse to activate the SCR for the cylinder
that is currently in the firing position. When activated, the
SCR closes a circuit that directs the current stored in the
capacitor to the primary winding in its ignition coil. A
strong magnetic field forms as the current flows through
the coil primary winding. As it builds, the field passes
through the secondary coil winding, creating very high
voltage. This voltage is directed through the spark plug
lead to the spark plug. The voltage may exceed 35,000
volts and is high enough to jump the spark plug gap under
all normal operating conditions. After discharging, the
transformer recharges the capacitor in preparation for the
next cycle.
The crankshaft position sensor generates electrical
pulses as encoder ribs (Figure 12), cast into the flywheel,
pass next to the sensor tip. Uneven spacing between the
ribs generates uneven pauses between the electrical
pulses. The ECU computes the piston firng positions by
monitoring the uneven pulses generated by the crankshaft
position sensor (Figure 11). The ECU also uses the crank-
shaft position sensor pulses to create pulsating signal that
operates the dash mounted tachometer. If the crankshaft
position sensor fails, the engine will not operate. The ECU
uses input from various sensors to compute and deliver
the optimum igmtion timing advance for the given operat-
ing conditions.
To help facilitate complete combustion, the ECU or
EMM operates in a multiple spark mode at throttle set-
Since the direct injectors spray fuel near the fving tips, pacitor (Figure 25), start assist transformer and
the spark plugs must be installed with correct gap orienta- suppressor (Figure 26). Refer to Figure 27 for this de-
tion. Otherwise, the ground electrode of the spark plug scription. The stator mounts to the top of the power head
can divert fuel away from the firing tip, causing a misfire and just below the flywheel. The stator consist of multiple
and adversely affecting the engines operating efficiency. coil windings surrounding the stator laminations. The
Spark plug installation is described in the Chapter Four stator contains windings that serve different systems on
section of this chapter. the engine. Some of the windings provide the 12 volt cur-
rent to charge the cranking battery and operate the electric
fuel pump, power trim system, ECU, and on-board acces-
Charging System Operation (1997-1999 models)
sories. The remaining windings produce the higher volt-
The charging system supplies current to charge the age required to operate the direct fuel injectors, electric oil
cranking battery and to operate the electronic components pump and the ignition coils.
on the engine. The ignition system consist of the stator The flywheel contains multiple magnets bonded onto
(Figure 23), flywheel (Figure 24), rectifierlregulator, ca- the inner side of the flywheel ring. This arrangement
CHARGING SYSTEM
(1997-1999 MODELS)
6
- - L
.
I'
u
16
1. Stator 10. 12 volt input from

2. Flywheel battery charging circuit*
3. 26 or 40 volt output 11. 20 volt output to 26
4. 12 volt output or 40 volt circuit*
5. Rectifierlregulator 12. Suppressor*
6. Capacitor 13. Power relay
7. Engine control unit (ECU) 14. Starter solenoid
8. Start assist transformer 15. Batter
9. 12 volt input from 16. Battery distribution panel
starter solenoid*
*Not used on all models
SUPPLEMENT
places the magnets in close proximity the stator lamina- ure 27) supplies 12 volts to operate the transformer.
tions and coil windings. As the flywheel rotates, the mag- When activated, the transformer increases battery voltage
nets pass by and induce magnetism into the stator to approximately 20 volts and delivers it to the 26 volt cir-
laminations and coil windings. This creates alternating cuit. This feature assures uninterrupted operation of the
current (AC) in the coil windings that passes through wir- direct fuel injectors for quicker starting of the higher
ing to the rectifierlregulator. horsepower models. Transformer operation ceases when
On 115-175 hp models, the rectifierlregulatormounts to the starter solenoid deactivates.
the rear of the flywheel and just below the engine control
unit (ECU). On 200 and 225 hp models, the rectifierlregu-
Charging System Operation (2000-2002 models)
lator mounts on the top of the power head and to the rear
of the flywheel. Using diodes, the rectifier portion of the The charging system supplies current to charge the
assembly converts the alternating current produced to di- cranking battery and to operate the electronic components
rect current (DC). The regulator portion limits the charg- on the engine. The ignition system consists of the stator
ing system output voltage to prevent battery overcharging (Figure 23), flywheel (Figure 24), capacitor (Figure 25),
or damage to electrical components. It contains independ- filter module (Figure 28) and the engine management
ent circuits for the battery charging (approximately module (EMM). Refer to Figure 29 for this description.
12.5-13.5 volts) and the higher voltage circuits. The The stator mounts to the top of the power head andjust be-
higher voltage is h i t e d to 26 volt on all 1997-1999 low the flywheel. The stator consist of multiple coil wind-
(90-175 hp) models . ings surrounding the stator laminations. The stator
The capacitor mounts on top of the power head and to contains windings that serve different systems on the en-
the port side of the ECU. The capacitor functions like a gine. Some of the windings provide the 12 volt current to
rapidly charging and discharging battery to filter out volt- charge the cranking battery and operate the electric fuel
age spikes. This provide a consistent 26 or 40 volt DC pump, trim system, EMM and on-board accessories. The
supply for the ECU, direct fuel injectors and electric oil remaining windings produce the 40 volt current required
PUP. to operate the direct fuel injectors, electric oil pump and
The suppressor is used on 150-175 hp (1997-1998) the ignition coils.
models and mounts onto the rear starboard side of the The flywheel contains multiple magnets bonded onto
power head. It filters out damaging voltage spikes that the inner side of the flywheel ring. This arrangement
may occur in the battery charging circuits. Voltage spikes places the magnets in close proximity the stator lamina-
can occur from operating the engine with a loose or faulty tions and coil windings. As the flywheel rotates, the mag-
wire connection at the battery or other electrical compo- nets pass by and induce magnetism into the stator
nents. On other models, the suppressor is integrated into laminations and coil windings. This creates alternating
the rectifierlregulator. current (AC) in the coil windings that passes through wir-
One circuit of the battery charging output, supplies 12 ing to the EMM.
volts from the rectifierlregulatorto a fused terminal on the The diodes in the rectifierlregulator circuits of the
power distribution panel. The power distribution panel is EMM convert the alternating current to direct current
located under the plastic cover on the upper starboard side (DC). The regulator portion limits the charging system
the power head. This terminal supplies power to the
ectric fuel pump. Another circuit supplies 12 volts to the
pressor, power relay, starter solenoid, trim relays and
battery. This circuit supplies current to operate these
mponents and serves as the circuit to charge the crank-
The 26 volt output circuits supply power to the ECU,

acitor and a terminal on the power distribution panel.
terminal supplies power through fused circuits to the
ion system, direct fuel injectors and the electric oil
start assist transformer is used only on 1999 200

5 hp models and mounts onto the ECU. It switches
when activated by a wire connection (9, Figure 27) to
e starter solenoid terminal. An additional wire (10, Fig-
output voltage to prevent battery overcharging or dam- tribution panel. The power distribution panel is located
age to electrical components. It contains independent under the plastic cover on the upper starboard side of the
circuits for the 12 volt battery charging and the 40 volt power head. This provides the circuit to charge the battery
circuits. and supplies the current to operate the power trim relays.
The capacitor mounts on top of the power head and to This circuit continues to the filter (13, Figure 29). The fil-
the port side of the EMM. The capacitor functions like a ter removes transient voltage spikes than can affect the
rapidly charging and discharging battery to filter out volt- operation of the tachometer an other dash mounted instru-
age spikes. This provide a consistent 40 volt DC supply ments. The other 12 volt DC output circuit supplies 12
for the EMM, direct fuel injectors and electric oil pump. volt DC to the power relay (9, Figure 29). This circuit
One circuit of the battery charging output, supplies 12 also supplies current to operate the electric fuel pump.
volt DC from the EMM to the starter solenoid terminal, The 40 volt output circuit supplies current to the EMM,
battery and the terminal (15, Figure 29) on the power dis- capacitor and a terminal on the power distribution panel.
CHARGING SYSTEM
(2000-2002 MODELS)
1. Stator 10. 12 volt terminal (to electric

2. Flywheel fuel pump relay)
3. Engine management module (EMM) 11. 40 volt terminal (to fuel injectors
4. 40 volt DC output and electric fuel pump)
5. 12 volt DC output 12. 12 volt terminal (to ignition key
6. Capacitor switch and instruments)
7. Stater solenoid 13. Filter
8. Battery 14. Power distribution panel
9. Power relay 15. 12 volt terminal (to power trim relays)
SUPPLEMENT
This terminal supplies power through fused circuits to the cover. Do not unplug the sensor from the engine harness
direct fuel injectors and the electric oil pump. connection.
3. Carefully turn the throttle position sensor lever coun-
terclockwise until it reaches the limit of travel which
Reading Service Codes places the sensor in the full throttle position (Figure 33).
Wrap a rubber band around the sensor body and lever to
Service codes are identified by reading the flashing
check engine light sequence on the dash mounted gauge hold this position.
4. Reconnect the negative battery cable, then turn the ig-
(Figure 30).
nition key switch to the RUN position. Do not attempt to
Before reading the service codes, refer to the following
start the engine.
to understand how to identify codes:
A short duration light on followed by a short duration
light off then a short duration light on indicates a code 2
for the first digit of the troubli: code (Figure 31). The sec-
ond digit of the trouble code is displayed after a short light
offperiod. In this example the second digit is a code 1.
Therefore, the code displayed in this example is 2 1. A lon-
ger duration light off period separates the individual
stored trouble codes. The flashing codes are displayed in a
repeating numerical order. Figure 31 displays the flashing
light sequence for a repeating code 2 1. To ensure all codes
are identified, always write them down.
After retrieving the service codes, refer to Table 5, then
check the indicated component, circuit or systems. The
codes are grouped in three levels. Always address the
level one &gher) codes before addressing level two or
level three (lower) codes. Likewise, always address level
two codes before addressing level three codes. This is
necessary because a fault associated with a higher level @ TROUBLE CODE 2-1
code can set a lower level code as well. Correcting the
higher level code may correct the lower level code. After ON ON OW OWON on
correcting a fault, always clear the codes and run the en-
gine to check for re-occurring codes.
The engine must be put in service mode to display any
failed service codes.
CODE 2 CODE 1 CODE 2 CODE 4
Entering service mode

CAUTION
Always remove the throttle position sensor
and manually move the lever to the desired
position. Simply moving the throttle lever;
with the sensor mounted on thepower head,
may not move the sensor lever enough to
place the sensor at the limit of travel neces-
sary to read and clear the service codes.
1. Turn the ignition key switch to the OFF position. Dis-

connect the negative cable from the battery or place the
battery switch, if so equipped, in the OFF position. Wait
ten minutes before proceeding.
2. Remove the two screws (A, Figure 32), then lift the
throttle position sensor (B) from the plastic flywheel
1
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL JNJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 587
5. Read and record all of the trouble codes as described in Clearing service codes
this section. Refer to Table 5 to identify the codes.
6A. No codes are present-Exit the service mode as de- CA UTION
scribed in this section. Always remove the throttle position sensor
6B. Service codes are present-Test the indicate compo- and manually move the lever to the desired
nent or circuit and complete the repair for level one codes position. Simply moving the throttle level;
first, follow with level two then level three codes. After with the sensor mounted on thepower head,
completing the repair, clear the codes as described in this may not move the sensor lever enough topo-
section, then run the engine to determine if other codes re- sition the sensor at the limit of travel neces-
main. Perform additional repairs as required. saly to read and clear the service codes.
Place the engine in service mode as described in this

section for this procedure.
1. Make sure the battery is properly connected, the throt-
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR tle position sensor is in the full throttle position (Figure
(FULL THROTTLE POSITION) 33) and the ignition key switch is in the RUN position.
2. Remove the rubber band from the throttle position sen-
sor.
3. Carefully move the throttle position sensor lever in the
clockwise direction until it reaches its limit of travel
which places the sensor in the idle position (Figure 34).
The check engine light illuminates while the lever is in
this position. Keep the lever in this position for at least six
seconds, then return the lever to the full throttle position
(Figure 33). Return the throttle lever to the idle position
Bottom of
when the check engine stops glowing. Repeat this step
four additional times to achieve five full throttle to idle
position cycles.
4. With the throttle position sensor lever in the idle posi-
tion, install the sensor onto the engine and secure with the
two screws. The check engine light will remain illumi-
nated until the sensor is fully installed.
5. Turn the ignition key switch to the OFF position.
6. Run the engine to check for illumination of the check
THROTTLE POSTION SENSOR engine light. Read the codes as described in this section to
(IDLE POSITION) ensure the code clears from the memory. Repeat the clear-
ing codes procedure if the code remains. Replace the af-
fected component or repair the wiring or circuit fault if the
code resets after clearing.
Exiting service mode
1. Turn the ignition key switch to the OFF position.

Lever
2. Carefully move the throttle position lever clockwise
until it reaches the limit of travel which places the sensor
in the idle throttle position (Figure 34).
3. Install the sensor onto the power head and secure with
the two screws.
SUPPLEMENT
STARTING SYSTEM the other four 40 amp relays used on the engine. First
operate the power trim system in the UP and DOWN di-
The electric starting system used on 1997-1999 Ficht rection to verify that both trim system relays are opera-
Fuel hjection (FFI) models is very similar to the system tional. Refer to the power distribution panel diagram in
used on carburetor equipped models and test procedure Figure 35 to identify the fuses and relays. The power dis-
are very similar. Test the starting system on 1997-1999 tribution panel is located under the plastic cover on the
FFI models as described in Chapter Three upper starboard side of the power head. Refer to the wir-
All 2000-2002 Ficht models are equipped with a start ing diagrams located at the end of the manual to assist
delay relay along with an electrical filter for the circuit with locating the wire coloring and corresponding con-
supplying current to the ignition key switch. A failure of nection points to the start delay relay, starter solenoid and
either of these components can prevent the starter motor EMM. Place the engine in the full down position, then, re-
fiom operating. If the starter motor fails to operate, test move the start delay relay and temporarily substitute one
the start delay relay and the filter as described in this sec- of the trim relays in its place. If the starter is now opera-
tion. If these components test correctly, refer to Starting tional, replace the start delay relay and return the power
System in Chapter Three. trim relay to its original position. If the starter will not op-
erate with the substitute relay, test the start delay circuits
as follows:
Start Delay Relay Test
1. Calibrate a multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch the
The start delay relay (Figure 20) is located on the star- positive test lead to the relay terminal connector of the
board side and near the engine management module yellow/bluewire. Touch the negative test lead to the Ster-
(EMM) connectors. A fault with the start delay relay will minal on the starter solenoid. The meter should show full
result in no activation of the electric starter or intermittent continuity. If otherwise, replace or repair the faulty wiring
activation of the starter. The start delay relay is identical to or terminal connection for the yellowiblue wire.
FUSE AND RELAY DIAGRAM
aaa I 2 3
PIaa
1. 10 amp fuse (electric oil pump)
2. 10 amp fuse (direct injectors No.1
and 4 [V-61 or 1 and 3 [V-41)
3. 10 amp fuse (direct injector No. 3
4 5 6 and 6 [V-6 only])
4. 10 amp fuse (electric fuel pump)
5. 10 amp fuse (ignition circuit)
El7
a8 W a 10
6. 10 amp fuse (direct injectors No. 2
and 5 p-61 or 2 and 4 [V-41)
7. 40 amp relay (EMM, ignition and
stop circuits)
8. 10 amp fuse (ignition key switch,
filter and EMM on circuits)
9. 40 amp relay (electric fuel pump)
10. 40 amp relay (power trim up circuit)
11. 40 amp relay (power trim down circuit)
1997-2002 PICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 589
2. Calibrate a digital multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC for the yellowlredwires. Touch the negative test lead to an
scale. Touch the positive meter test lead to relay terminal engine ground. Observe the meter while an assistant turns
connector for the gray/brown wire. Touch the negative the ignition key switch to the START position. Repeat the
test lead to an engine ground. Observe the meter while an test using the remaining yellowlred wire terminal. The
assistant switches the ignition key switch to the ON posi- meter should indicate 12.0VDC for both test lead connec-
tion. The meter should indicate less than 1.0 VDC. tion points.
a. Less than 1.0 D C reading-Proceed to Step 4. a. 0 volt reading-The relay is defective and must be
b. Reading is 1.0 VDC or greater-Test the diodes in replaced.
the relay wiring harness as described in Step 3. b. 12 volt or greater-The relay is functioning prop-
3. Test the diodes in the relay harness as follows: erly. Test the remaining starting system components
a. Remove the start delay relay from the connector. and circuits as described in Chapter Three.
b. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position. c. Over 0 volt reading and less than 12 volt read-
c. Touch the meter test lead to the relay connector for ing-Test the battery as described in Chapter
the graylbrown wire. Trace the wire, then touch the Seven, then check for du-ty relay terminals andor
negative test lead to the gray relay wire connector wire connections. Replace the start delay relay if no
to the EMM. The meter should indicate less than 1.0 fault is found with the battery, terminals and wiring.
VDC. If otherwise, the diode is defective and the
gray wire connecting the relay to the EMM must be
replaced. Filter Module Test
d. Touch the meter test lead to the relay connector for
the grayhrown wire. Trace the wire, then touch the The filter module (Figure 28) is located on the top of
negative test lead to the brown relay wire connector the power head and to the port side of the engine manage-
to the EMM. The meter should indicate less than 1.0 ment module (EMM). A fault with the filter will result in
VDC. If otherwise, the diode is defective and the no power to the ignition key switch, a blown fuse or er-
brown wire connecting the relay to the EMM must ratic operation of the tachometer.
be replaced. 1. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
e. Install the start delay relay into the connector. Touch the positive test lead to the positive battery termi-
4. Calibrate a multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. nal. Touch the negative terminal to an engine ground. Re-
Touch the positive test lead to one of the relay terminals cord the battery voltage for use in the test procedures.
2. Calibrate a multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the pos-
itive meter test lead to the screw securing the black filter
wire onto the power head. Touch the negative test lead to
an engine ground. The meter should show continuity. If
otherwise, clean the black wire terminal or repair the
faulty ground wire for the filter.
3. Calibrate a multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
Trace the redwhite filter wire to the connection point on
the power distribution panel. The power distribution
panel is located under the plastic cover on the upper star-
board side of the power head. The wire color changes to
redpurple at the panel. Touch the positive test lead to the
redpurple wire terminal at the panel. Touch the negative
test lead to an engine ground. The meter should indicate
battery voltage. If otherwise, check the 10 amp fuse (8,
Figure 35) for a blown condition. Then, check the
redwhite and redpurple wiring for damaged wiring or
shorts. Repair or replace wiring as needed. Replace the fil-
ter if low or no voltage is indicated and the fuse and wiring
is not at fault.
4. Unplug the main engine harness connector from the in-
strument harness connector (Figure 36). Touch the nega-
tive test lead to an engine ground. Touch the positive test
SUPPLEMENT
lead to the redpurple terminal in the engine harness con- Spark Test
nector. A No. 5 should be molded into the connector next
to this terminal. The meter should indicate battery volt- This test requires a suitable spark gap tester (Figure 38)
age. If otherwise, check the redpurple wire between the and a strobe timing light with an inductive pickup (Pigure
harness connector and the filter module for damaged wir- 39). This equipment is available from most automotive or
ing or shorts. Repair or replace the wiring as needed. Re- marine parts stores and tool suppliers.All spark plug leads
place the filter module if no fault is found with the wiring. must be connected to a spark plug tester. Some gap testers
5. Plug the main engine harness connector onto the in- may not have enough terminals to handle all of the spark
strument harness connector. plug leads. Use multiple spark gap testers as necessary.
The first part of this test checks for adequate spark at the
coil at cranking speed. The second part checks for consis-
IGNITION SYSTEM tent ignition system operation at higher engine speeds.
The second part must be performed under actual operating
This section describes testing procedures for the igni- conditions.
tion system used with the Ficht direct fuel injection sys- Safely performing on-water tests requires two people.
tem. To save time and reduce the chance of misdiagnosis, One person to operate the boat, the other to monitor the
always check for service codes, as described in this chap- gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain
ter, before testing the ignition system. If the service code seated inside the boat at all times. Do not lean over the
check reveals a fault with the ignition system, perform the
following procedures in the order shown. Many of the test
procedures will vary by model and year of production.
The test procedures address differences where applicable.
1. Spark test.
2. Crankshaft position sensor test.
3. Coil primary voltage test. Wire
jacket
4. Voltage supply test.
5. Capacitor test.
6. Stop circuit test.
7. Power relay test.
8. Coil resistance test.
9. Spark plug lead resistance.
WARNING
High voltage is present in the ignition sys-
tem. Electrical shock can result in serious
bodily injury or death. Never touch any
wires, electrical components or metal por-
tions of the test lead probes while running
the engine or performing a test. Never per-
form ignition system tests while standing in
water
CAUTION
Since many of the test procedures must be
made with the wiring connected, it is often
necessary to insert the test lead probe be-
tween the wire connector seal and the wire
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal
(Figure 37). Use a small diameter test lead
probe with a sharpened tip and work care-
fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal
or connector Do not puncture the wire
jacket to contact the wiring.
transom while the boat is under way. Use extensions to al- 4. Connect the ground lead of the spark gap tester(s) to a
low all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seat- suitable engine ground (Figure 40). Do not connect the
ing area. ground lead to the ECU or EMM mounting bracket. Use a
clean bolt threading into the cylinder block or cylinder
CAUTION head.
Arcingfiom the ignition system can damage
5. Connect the caps of the spark plug leads to the spark
the electrical system if it contacts engine
electrical components or connected wiring. gap tester terminals.
During spark testing, all spark plug leads 6. Make sure the lanyard safety switch and ignition key
must be connected to a suitable spark gap switch are in the normal RUN position.
tester Use multiple testers as necessary.Do 7. Observe the spark gap tester(s) while an assistant turns
not perform the spark test with any of the the ignition key switch to engage the starter motor. A
spark plug leads disconnected or grounded strong blue spark at the spark gap tester (while cranking)
to the power head. Never attach the ground indicates the ignition system is working for that cylinder.
for the spark plug tester onto the ECU or Note any cylinders with no or weak or intermittent spark.
EMMmounting bracket. Keep the sparkgap
tester at least 3 in. (76 mm) away from the 8. Refer to Ignition System in this chapter for a list of ad-
engine electrical components and con- ditional test instructions if spark is lacking or weak on any
nected wiring. of the cylinders.
9. Install the spark plugs as described in the Chapter Four
1. Remove the spark plugs from all cylinders. section of this chapter. Reconnect the spark plug lead.
2. Remove the propeller as described in Chapter Nine. 10. Install the propeller as described in Chapter Nine.
3. Adjust the tester(s) to achieve a 7/16 in. (11.1 mm) Prepare the engine for operation in a test tank or with the
sparking gap. vessel in a suitable body of water.
11. Connect the inductive pickup to one of the spark plug
leads. Route the timing light cable to prevent entangle-
ment with moving components while allowing all occu-
pants to remain seated in the vessel.
12. Have an assistant operate the engine at various engine
speeds while noting the flashing of the timing light. Stop
the engine and connect the pickup to a different plug lead.
Repeat this procedures until all leads are checked at all
speed ranges. The light must flash consistently on all cyl-
inders and at all speed ranges. Intermittent flashing com-
bined by a notable roughness or misfire indicates a fault
with the ignition system for the corresponding cylinder. If
intermittent flashing is noted, refer to Ignition System in
this chapter.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Test
Connect to engine ground Use feeler gauges and a multimeter for this test. The
first part of the test checks the gap between the sensor tip
and the encoder ribs on the flywheel. The second part
checks the resistance of the coil winding in the sensor. It is
a f not necessary to remove the sensor for testing.

1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
starting.
\ 2A. 90-175 hp -Locate the crankshaft position sensor
(A, Figure 41) and the slot in the flywheel cover (B). Peer
Connect to spark plug into the slot to view the ribs and sensor tip. Then, manu-
wire cap ally rotate the flywheel to align one of encoder ribs with
the tip of the sensor (Figure 42).
SUPPLEMENT-
2B. 200 and 225 hp -Locate the crankshaft position sen- 7. Plug the sensor orange and black wires onto their re-
sor on the front starboard side of the power head and just spective engine wire harness connections. Route the
below the flywheel ring gear. The tip of the sensor aligns wiring to prevent interference with moving compo-
with the lower side of the flywheel. Manually rotate the nents. Secure the wiring with plastic locking clamps as
flywheel to align one of the encoder ribs with the tip of the needed.
sensor.
3A. 90-1 75 hp --Check the sensor to encoder rib air Coil Primary Voltage Test
gap by inserting feeler gauges into the slot (Figure 43).
The clearance is equal to the thickness of the feeler Use a multimeter, with peak volt reading capability up
gauge that passes between the sensor and rib with a to 400 volts for this test. These meters are generally avail-
slight drag. The air gap must be within the specification able fiom tool suppliers.
in Table 6. If otherwise, loosen the clamp screws (C, Perform the spark test, as described in this section be-
Figure 41), then move the sensor closer or away from fore testing the coil primary voltage. Note and record any
the flywheel to achieve the correct air gap. Securely cylinders with no spark or weak spark.
tighten the screws, then recheck the sensor clearance.
Readjust as necessary. CAUTION
For accurate test results, the battery must be
3B. 200 and 225 hp --Check the sensor to encoder rib air fully charged to achieve the correct crank-
gap by inserting feeler gauges between the tip of the sen- ing speed. Do not remove the spark plugs.
sor and the rib. The clearance is equal to the thickness of Otherwise, the cranking speed and corre-
the feeler gauge passing between the sensor tip and the rib sponding voltage output may increase, and
with a slight drag. The air gap should be within the speci- the test results will not represent the actual
fication in Table 6. If otherwise, remove the sensor and voltage present at actual cranking speed.
1 add or subtract shims from the sensor spacer to achieve
the recommended clearance. crankshaft position sensor
removal and installationis described in the Chapter Seven
section of this Supplement.
NOTE
Allow the engine to cool or warm to a nor-
mal room temperature of 68" F (20" C) be-
fore measuring resistance. Resistance
measurements will increase at higher tem-
peratures and decrease at lower tempera-
tures.
4. Unplug the crankshaft position sensor orange and

black wires from the engine wire harness connector
5. Calibrate the multimeter to the correct scale to mea-
sure the crankshaft position sensor measurement listed in
Table 6.
6. Touch the positive meter test lead to the orange wire
@
terminal in the sensor harness connector. Touch the nega-
tive test lead to the black wire terminal in the sensor har-
ness connector. Do not inadvertently touch the test leads
to the engine wire harness connectors. Compare the read-
ing with the specificationin Table 6. An excessively high
resistance reading is likely the result of dnty or corroded
wire terminal connections. Clean the terminals and repeat
the measurement. A no continuity or excessively low re-
sistance reading indicates the sensor or connected wiring
is shorted or open. Replace the sensor as described in the position sensor
Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
CAUTION gine control unit (ECU) or engine management module

Do not unplug the wirefrom the terminalfor (EMM). Touch the positive test lead to the primary termi-
this test. Insert the testprobe between the in- nal (Figure 44) of one of the ignition coils. The primary
sulating boot and the terminal tower to con- coil terminals are smaller than the secondary coil terrni-
tact the wire terminal or temporarily move nals.
the boot away from the terminal. Inadver-
tently touching the probe to the spark plug 4. Have an assistant turn the ignition key switch to the
lead terminal during the test will damage ON or RUN position. Allow a few seconds for the warn-
the meter: ing lights to complete the self test.
5. Observe and record the meter readings while the assis-
NOTE
On 1997 and 1998 150 and 175 hp models, tant engages the starter motor.
the ignition coils are mounted between the 6. Repeat Steps 3-5 for each coil on the engine. Record all
ignition module and the power head. Re- test results.
move the mounting bolts and pull the igni-
tion module awayfrom the rear of thepower NOTE
head to access the ignition coil. Do not op- Some models use only double coil units
erate the engine with any of the ignition while others use a combination or single
module grounding wires disconnected. and double coil units. On models using both
types, the test specificationsare the samefor
1. Connect each spark plug lead onto a spark gap tester as either type of coil. A double coil unit is sim-
described in this section. See Spark Test. Do not remove ply two single coils contained in one hous-
the spark plugs for this test. Make sure the lanyard safety ing.
switch is in the RUN position.
2. Calibrate the meter to the 400 DVA or peak volt scale. 7A. 1997 and 1998-The meter should inhcate a mini-
3. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. Do mum of 180 volts at each coil primary terminal. Refer to
not connect the lead to the mounting bracket for the en- the following:
a. No voltage or low voltage at all coils-Perform the
voltage supply test as described in this section.
b. No voltage or low voltage on one or more coils, but
there is correct voltage on other coils-Tempo-
rarily replace a coil that test correctly with a suspect
coil. Replace the ignition module if the voltage re-
mains low with the substitute coil.
c. Correct voltage with no spark or weak spark-
Temporarily substitute the ignition coil and lead,
with one from a cylinder with good spark. A fault is
indicated with the coil or spark plug lead if good
spark is present with the substitute coil. Test the sus-
pect ignition coil and the spark plug lead resistance
as described in this section. If the coil and lead test
correctly, yet fail to deliver spark, replace the igni-
tion coil. Repair the faulty ground if no spark or
weak spark occurs with the known good coil.
d. Correct voltage on all cylinders--The spark plugs
are the source of the ignition misfire. Replace the
spark plugs as described in the Chapter Four section
of this Supplement. If the ignition misfire persists,
refer to Spark Test in this section. If a misfire occurs
at highcr speeds only, temporarily substitute the ig-
nition coil and spark plug lead from a cylinder that
is firing correctly. Replace the suspect coil if the
misfire still occurs.
SUPPLEMENT
7B. 1999-2002-The meter should indicate a minimum the ignition coil. Repair the faulty ground if no
of 180 volts at each coils primary terminal. Refer to the spark or weak spark occurs with the good coil.
following: d. Correct voltage on all cylinders and good spark at
all coils-The spark plugs or coil wires are the
a. No voltage or low voltage at all coils-Perform the
source of the ignition misfire. Replace the spark
voltage supply test as described in this section.
plugs as described in the Chapter Four section of
b. No voltage or low voltage on one or more coils, but this Supplement. If the ignition misfire persist, refer
there is correct voltage on other coils-Substitute a to Spark Test in this section. If a misfire occurs at
good coil with a bad coil. If low voltage occurs with higher speeds only, switch a bad coil with a good
the good coil, check the wiring between the ECU or coil. Replace the suspect coil if the misfire follows
EMM and the coil. Replace the ECU or EMM to the coil.
correct the fault only after checking all wiring and 8. Remove the spark gap tester(s) and reconnect the plug
testing all other ignition system components. leads onto the spark plugs.
c. Correct voltage with no spark or weak spark on one
or more cylinders-Substitute a good coil with a Voltage Supply Test
bad coil. A fault is indicated with the coil or spark
plug lead if good spark is present with the good coil. Perform this test if no or low voltage is present at all ig-
Test the suspect ignition coil and the spark plug lead nition coil primary terminals. A voltage supply fault will
resistance as described in this section. If the coil and not result in low voltage on some coil primary terminals
lead test correctly, yet fail to deliver spark, replace and adequate voltage on others. Some of the test proce-
POWER DISTRIBUTION PANEL
I I
1 B I
; I
M
I B 1
j L 1 2 3
I 1 ) K 1. 10 amp fuse (electric oil pump)
1 B I 2. 10 amp fuse (direct injectors No. 1 and 4
t W-61 or 1 and 3 W-41)
3. 10 amp fuse (direct injector No. 3 and 6
L Dr-6 onW)
m I $45 4. 10 amp fuse (electric fuel pump)
I 5. 10 amp fuse (ignition circuit)
1 6. 10 amp fuse (direct injectors No. 2
and 5 v-61 or 2 and 4 p-41)
I 7. 40 amp relay (EMM, ignition and stop
I e circuits)
I B I
8. 10 amp fuse (ignition key switch, filter
I R and EMM on circuits)
9. 40 amp relay (electric fuel pump)
10. 40 amp relay (power trim up circuit)
11. 40 amp relay (power trim down circuit)
t 12. Power trim motor terminals
(blue and green wires)
B I
I
L
dures are performed at cranking speed while others can fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal
also be performed under actual running conditions. Per- or connector. Do not puncture the wire
form the test at both cranking and running speeds where jacket to contact the wiring.
applicable.
1. Place the lanyard stop switch in the RUN position.
Safely performing on-water tests requires two people.
One person to operate the boat, the other to monitor the 2. Remove the two 10 amp fuses (5 and 8, Figure 45).
gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
seated inside the boat at all times. Do not lean over the (Figure 46). Replace blown or damaged fuses.
transom while the boat is under way. Use extensions to al- b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the
low all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seat- positive test lead to one fuse terminal and the nega-
ing area. tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should
Before beginning this test, fully charge the battery and indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown
clean the battery terminals, as described in Chapter Seven. or has failed open and must be replaced. Repeat this
Visually inspect all wiring for damage and all terminals step for the remaining fuse.
for loose, duly or corroded contact. Faulty wiring or con- c. Carefully insert the fuses into their original open-
nections can result in misdiagnosis and the replacement of ings in the panel.
otherwise good components. Use a common multimeter 3. Prepare the engine for operation on a flush test device,
for this test. in a test tank or in a suitable body of water. If the engine
will be operated using a flush test device or in a test tank,
WARNrnG Remove the propeller as described in Chapter Nine.
High voltage is present in the ignition sys- 4. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Connect
tem. Electrical shock can result in serious the negative test lead to an engine ground. Touch the posi-
bodily injury or death. Never touch any tive meter test lead against the metal terminal in the Jter-
minal on the 14-pin connector (Figure 45).
the engine or performing any test. Never 5. Note the meter reading while an assistant turns the ig-
perform ignition system tests while standing nition key switch to the START position. If the engine
in water: starts, have the assistant immediately return the ignition
key switch to the RUN or ON position. Then note the me-
CA UTION ter reading with the engine running. The meter should in-
Since many of the test procedures must be dicate 9.5 volts or. higher during the cranking cycle and
made with the wiring connected, it is often 13.0 volts or higher with the engine running. Turn the ig-
necessaly to insert the test lead probe be-
nition key switch to the OFF position, then refer to the fol-
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal lowing:
(Figure37). Use a small diameter test lead a. Less than 9.5 volts while cranking-A faulty bat-
probe with a sharpened tip and work care- tery, cables or other starting system component has
failed. Recharge and test the battery as described in
Chapter Seven. Test the starting system components
as described in Chapter Three.
@ b. Less than 13.0 volts while running-Test the stop
circuit as described in this section.
Blown fuse
6. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
Touch the positive meter test lead to the positive post of
the battery. Then, touch the negative test lead to an engine
ground. Note and record the battery voltage.
7. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON or RUN posi-
tion. Do not start the engine at this time. Touch the nega-
tive test lead connected to ground, touch the positive test
lead to one of the exposed terminal on the 10 amp fuse (5,
Figure 45) in the power distribution panel. The key on
voltage should be approximately 1.0 volt less than the bat-
tery voltage measured in Step 6. Record the key on volt-
i age. If the meter indicates 0 voltage, remove and recheck
SUPPLEMENT
the 10 amp fuse (5, Figure 45) as described in Step 2. A 7)-Test the charging system output as described in
repeating failure of this fuse indicates a short circuit in the this Supplement.
wire connecting the panel to the ignition module or a c. No voltage measured while cranking-Proceed to
failed ignition module. If the fuse fails repeatedly and no Step 9.
fault is found with the wiring, refer to the following: 8C. 200 and 225 hp (1999)- Select the 40 VDC scale on
a. 150and 175hp (1997 and 1998)-Replace the igni- the meter. Connect the test leads as described in Step 7.
tion module and retest. Note and record the meter reading while an assistant turns
b. 90 and 115 hp (1998 and 1999) and 150-225 hp the ignition key switch to the START position. If the en-
(1999)-Replace the engine control unit (ECU) and gine starts, have the assistant immediately return the i p -
retest. tion key switch to the RUN or ON position. The voltage
c. 90-225 hp (2000-2002 models)-Replace the en- reading while cranking should indicate a steady reading of
gine management module and retest. approximately 20 volts.
8A. 150and 175hp (1997 and 1998)-Select the 40 VDC a. Correct voltage readings with no spark at the igni-
scale on the meter. Connect the test leads as described in tion coils-Inspect the whitelgreen wire that con-
Step 7. Note and record the meter reading while an assis- nects the power distribution panel to the ignition
tant turns the ignition key switchto the START position. If module for an open circuit or short circuiting. Test
the engine starts, have the assistant immediately return the all other ignition system components, then replace
ignition key switch to the RUN or ON position. Then note the ECU or EMM if no fault is found with the wir-
the meter reading with the engine &g. The voltage ing or other ignition system components.
measured while cranking should be higher than the key on b. No voltage measured while cranking-Proceed to
voltage measured in step 7. The voltage measured while Step 9.
running should be steady and exceed 25.0 volts.
c. Voltage while cranking is greater than 0 and less
a. Correct voltage readings with no spark at the igni-
than 19.0 volts-Test the start assist system as de-
tion coils-Inspect the whitelgreen wire that con-
scribed in this Supplement.
nects the power distribution panel to the ignition
8D. 200 and 225 hp (2000-2002 models)- Select the 40
module for an open circuit or short circuiting. Test
VDC scale on the meter. Connect the test leads as de-
all other ignition system components, then replace
scribed in Step 7. Note and record the meter reading while
the ignition module if no fault is found with the wir-
an assistant turns the ignition key switch to the START
ing or other ignition system components.
position. If the engine starts, have the assistant immedi-
b. Cranking speed and running voltage is higher than
ately return the ignition key switch to the RUN or ON po-
0 volt and less than 25.0 volts-Test the charging
sition. The voltage reading whle cranking should indicate
system output as described in this Supplement.
a steady reading of approximately 20 volts.
c. No voltage measured while cranking-Proceed to
Step 9. a. Correct voltage readings-no spark at the ignition
8B. 90-115 hp (1998-1999) and 150-175 hp coils-Inspect the whitelgreen wire connecting the
(1999-2002)-Select the 40 VDC scale on the meter. power distribution panel to the ignition module for
Connect the test leads as described in Step 7. Note and re- an open circuit or short circuit. Test all other igni-
cord the meter reading while an assistant turns the ignition tion system components, then replace the ECU or
key switch to the START position. If the engine starts, EMM if no fault is found with the wiring or other ig-
have the assistant immediately return the ignition key nition system components.
switch to the RUN or ON position. The voltage measured b. No voltage measured while cranking-Proceed to
while cranlung should be higher than the key on voltage Step 9.
measured in Step 7. c. Voltage while cranking is greater than 0 and less
a. Correct voltage readings with no spark at the igni- than 19.0volts-Test the charging system output as
tion coils-Inspect the whitelgreen wire that con- described in this Supplement.
nects the power distribution panel to the ignition 9. Check for a fault in the power distribution panel. In-
module for an open circuit or short circuiting. Test structions follow:
all other ignition system components, then replace a. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 volt scale.
the ECU or EMM if no fault is found with the wir- b. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
ing or other ignition system components. Probe the connector and touch the positive meter
b. Voltage while cranking is higher than 0 volt and less test lead against the metal terminal in the A terminal
than or equal to the key on voltage (see Step on the 4-pin connector (Figure 45).
c. Note and record the meter reading as described in The power distribution panel is located under the plastic
Step 7 and Step 8. cover on the upper starboard side of the power head.
d. Compare the voltage readings with the specifica-
tions listed in Step 7 and Step 8. Replace the power CA UTION
distribution panel if the voltage readings are now Since many of the test procedures must be
within the specifications. If the meter indicates no
voltage, test the charging system, as described in tween the wire connector seal and the wire
this Supplement. jacket to contact the metal wire terminal
(Figure 37). Use a small diameter test lead
Capacitor Test
fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal
The capacitor mounts on top the power head and to the or connector Do not puncture the wire
port side of the ECU. The capacitor functions like a rap-
idly charging and discharging battery to filter out voltage
spikes. T h s provide a consistent DC voltage supply for
Touch the positive test lead to the positive battery termi-
the ECU or EMM, direct fuel injectors and the electric oil
nal. Touch the negative test lead to an engine ground. Re-
Pump. cord the battery voltage for use in the test procedures.
1. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON or RUN posi-
tion. Do not start the engine. 2. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON or RUN posi-
tion. Keep the ignition key switch in t h s position during
the stop circuit test. Place the lanyard safety switch in the
3. Touch the negative test lead connected to ground,
RUN position.
touch the positive test lead to one of the exposed terminal
on the 10 amp fuse (5, Figure 45) in the power distribu- 3. 2000-2002 models-Remove the in-line 20 amp
tion panel. The meter should indicate some voltage. No fuse located in the purplelwhite then black wire leading
minimum voltage is specified. If no voltage is present, re- into the power distribution panel. Check the fuse as fol-
move and inspect the 10 amp fuse for a blown condition lows:
(Figure 46). Replace the fuse when necessary. If no volt- a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown conktion. If
age is present and the fuse test correctly, check for a faulty the fuse is blown, check for faults along the pur-
meter, test leads or wiring. plelwhite then black wire. Repair damaged or
4. Observe the multimeter closely while an assistant shorted wiring before replacing the fuse.
turns the ignition key switch to the OFF position. Repeat b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the
the test sequence several times to ensure consistent test re- positive test lead to one fuse terminal and the nega-
sults. Then, refer to the following: tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should
a. The voltage decreases fairly rapidly to near 0 indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown
volt-Normal test result. The capacitor is operating or has failed open and must be replaced.
correctly. 4. Remove the three 10 amp fuses (1,5 and 8, Figure 45).
b. The voltage drops instantly to 0 volt-The capacitor a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
is shorted and must be replaced. (Figure 46). Replace blown or physically damaged
c. The voltage does not d r o p T e s t the stop circuit as fuses.
described in this section. b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the
positive test lead to fuse terminal and the negative
Stop Circuit Test test lead to the other terminal. The meter should in-
dicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown or
The stop circuit consist of the ignition key switch, lan- has failed open and must be replaced. Repeat this
yard safety switch, ignition onlstop relay and related wir- step for the remaining two fuses.
ing. c. Carefully insert the fuses into their original open-
Use a common multimeter for this test.Fabricate a suit- ings in the panel.
able jumper lead from a wire and a pointed metallic object 5. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Connect
such as a paper clip. the negative test lead to an engine ground. Probe the con-
Refer to Figure 45 to locate the components and test nector and touch the positive meter test lead against the
lead connection points on the power distribution panel. metal terminal in the J terminal on the 14-pin-connector
SUPPLEMENT
(Figure 45). The meter should indicate battery voltage. the meter now indicates voltage about 1 volt less
Refer to the following: than battery voltage.
a. Meter indicates 0 volt-Proceed to Step 12. b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Test the charging system as
b. Meter indicates greater than 0 volt and less than described in this chapter.
battery voltage-Proceed to Step 6. 11. Remove the test probe from F tenninal (Figure 45)
c. Meter indicates battery voltage-Proceed to Step 7. and the engine ground.
6. Operate the trim system in the up and down direction 12. Calibrate a multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
to verify that both trim relays (10 and 11, Figure 45) are Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. Probe
operational. Temporarily substitute one of the known the connector and touch the positive meter test lead
good trim relays in place of the onlstop relay (7, Figure against the metal terminal in the N terminal on the 14-pin
45). Repeat Step 5. Replace the suspect relay if battery connector (Figure 45). The meter should indicated bat-
voltage is now present. If voltage is not present, proceed tery voltage. Refer to the following:
to Step 7. a. Meter indicates battery voltage-Proceed to Step
7. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. 13.
Probe the connector and touch the positive meter test lead b. Meter indicates 0 volt (1997 and 1998)-Test the
against the metal terminal in the J terminal on the 14-pin suppressor diodes as described in this chapter. See
connector (Figure 45). Observe the meter while an assis- Charging System. If the diodes test correctly, test
tant pulls the lanyard cord to activate the lanyard safety the power relay as described in this section.
switch. The meter reading should drop to 0 volt and the c. Meter indicates 0 volt (1999-2002 models)-Test
onlstop relay (7, Figure 45) should make a clicking noise the power relay as described in this section.
as the lanyard switch activates. Refer to the following: 13. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
a. Voltage drops to 0 and relay clicks-The stop cir- Unplug the onlstop relay (7, Figure 45), then refer to the
cuit is operating correctly. terminal orientation in Figure 47 to identify the relay ter-
b. Eltage does not drop as specified-Proceed to Step minals in the power distributionpanel. Touch the positive
8. meter test lead to terminal slot 30 (Figure 47) in the power
8. Place the lanyard safety switch in the RUN position. distribution panel. Touch the negative test lead to an en-
9. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. gine ground and note the meter reading. Refer to the fol-
Probe the connector and touch the positive meter test lead lowing:
against the metal terminal in the J terminal on the 14-pin a. Meter indicates battery voltage-Replace the
connector (Figure 45). Use an additional test lead to onlstop relay and repeat the stop circuit test to ver-
probe the connector and touch the test lead against the ify correct operation.
metal terminal in the F terminal on the 14-pin connector b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Unplug the 14-pin connec-
(Figure 45). Connect the other end of the additional test tor (Figure 45), then inspect the connector termi-
lead to an engine ground. The meter should indicate bat- nals. Repair faulty terminals or replace the harness
tery voltage on the J terminal with the P terminal
grounded. Refer to the following:
a. Meter indicates 0 volt-The lanyard safety switch
or boat instrument harness is faulty. Replace the
lanyard safety switch and retest. Replace the instru- RELAY TERMINALS
ment harness or repair faulty wiring if the meter still (POWER DISTRIBUTION PANEL)
indicates 0 volt.
b
b. Meter indicates battery voltage-Proceed to Step
10 m
86
Touch the negative test lead connected to ground, touch
the positive test lead to one of the exposed terminal on the
10 amp fuse (5, Figure 45) in the power distribution
panel. Refer to the following:
1 b~
87 87a
a. Meter indicates 0 volt-Probe the connector and

touch the positive meter test lead against the metal rn
85
terminal in the A terminal on the 4 pin connector
(Figure 45). Replace the power distributionpanel if
as necessary. Replace the power distribution panel 200 and 225 hp (2000-2002 models)-The power relay
ifno fault is found with the connector terminals. Re- is located on the upper rear and port side of the power
peat the stop circuit test to verify correct operation. head. This places the relay just to the port side of the
14. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. EMM.
Unplug the odstop relay (7, Figure 45), then refer to the
terminal orientation in Figure 47 to identify the relay ter- CA UTION
minals in the power distribution panel. Touch the positive Since many of the test procedures must be
meter test lead to terminal slot 86 (Figure 47) in the power
distribution panel. Touch the negative test lead to an en- tween the wire connector seal and the wire
gine ground and note the meter reading. Refer to the fol- jacket to contact the metal wire terminal
lowing: (Figure 37). Use a small diameter test lead
a. Meter indicates battery voltage-Replace the probe with a sharpened tip and work care-
odstop relay and repeat the stop circuit test to ver- fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal
ify correct operation. or connector: Do not puncture the wire
b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Replace the power distribu- jacket to contact the wiring.
tion panel. Then repeat the stop circuit test to verify
correct operation. NOTE
The appearance of thepower relay is identi-
cal to the start delay relay used on some
Power Relay Test models. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the
end of the manual to identi& the wire colors
When activated, the power relay (Figure 48) supplies connected to the power relay. Erz& the
battery voltage to the engine control unit (ECU) or engine power relay by the connecting wire colors.
management module (EMM) and the ignition module (on
1998 models). Relay mounting location will vary by Use a common multimeter for this test. Refer to Figure
model. Refer to the following to assist with locating the 45 to locate the components and test lead connection
relay. points on the power distribution panel. The power distri-
90-175 hp (1998 and 1999)-The power relay is lo- bution panel is located under the plastic cover on the
cated on the upper rear and starboard side of the power power head's upper starboard side.
head. This places the relay in close proximity to the har- 1. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
ness connections on the ECU. Touch the positive test lead to the positive battery termi-
200 and 225 hp (1999)-The power relay is located on nal. Touch the negative test lead to an engine ground. Re-
the starboard side of the power head and just below the cord the battery voltage for use in the test procedures.
power distribution panel. 2. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON or RUN posi-
90-175 hp (2000-2002 models)-The power relay is lo- tion. Keep the ignition key switch in this position during
cated on the upper rear and starboard side of the power the power relay test. Place the lanyard safety switch in the
head. The relay plugs into the engine harness just below RUN position.
the harness connections to the EMM. 3. Remove the 10 amp h s e (8, Figure 45) from the
power distribution panel. Inspect and test the fuse as fol-
lows:
a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
(Figure 46). Replace blown or physically damaged
fuses.
b. Calibrate the multimeterto the Rxl scale. Touch the
positive test lead onto one fuse terminal and the
negative test lead to the other terminal. The meter
should indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is
blown or has failed open and must be replaced.
c. Carefully insert the fuses into its original openings
in the panel.
Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. Touch
the positive test lead to the upper exposed terminals on the
SUPPLEMENT
10 amp fuse (4, Figure 45). Note the meter reading, then b. Meter indicates battery voltage-Replace the sus-
refer to the following: pect power relay.
a. Meter indicates battery voltage-The power relay 9. Install the power relay into its engine harness plug.
is operating correctly. Route the wiring to prevent interference with moving
b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Proceed to Step 5. components.
5. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
Probe the connector and touch the positive meter test lead
Ignition Coil Resistance Test
against the metal terminal in the L terminal on the 14-pin
connector (Figure 45). This test requires a digital multimeter. An analog meter
a. Meter indicates 0 volt-Proceed to Step 6. may not delivery the accuracy needed to measure the igni-
b. Meter indicates a voltage slightly lower than bat- tion coil primary circuit. It is not necessary to remove the
tery voltage-Proceed to Step 7. ignition coil for this procedure.
6. Test the diode in the purple engine harness wiring. In-
structions follow: NOTE
a. Unplug the 6-pin instrument harness connector Some models use only double coil units
from the engine harness connector (Figure 36). while others use a combination or single
b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Probe the and double coil units. On models using both,
the test procedures and speczjkations are
connector and touch the positive meter test lead
the samefor either type of coil. A double coil
against the metal terminal in the L terminal on the unit is simply two single coils contained in
14-pin connector (Figure 45). Touch the negative one housing.
test lead to the No. 4 terminal of the connector (en-
gine side of the harness). This terminal connects to NOTE
the purple engine harness wire. A 4 should be Allow the engine to cool or warm to a nor-
molded into the connector next to this terminal. mal room temperature of 68" F (20" C) be-
c. Note the meter reading, then reverse the polarity of fore measuring resistance. Resistance
the test leads. The meter should indicate continuity measurements will increase at higher tem-
peratures and decrease at lower tempera-
on and switch to no continuity. If otherwise, replace
tures.
the diode in the engine harness purple wire. If the
diode test correctly, test the ignition key switch and
instrument harness as described in Chapter Three.
d. Plug the engine harness connector onto the instru-
ment harness connector.
7. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. POWER RELAY TERMINALS
Carefullyunplug the power relay from the engine harness. (ENGINE WIRE HARNESS)
the positive test lead onto the terminal in the harness con-
nector that aligns with the purple wire (3, Figure 49) Note
the meter reading, then refer to the following:
a. Meter indicates 0 volt-An open or short exist on
the purple wire connecting the power relay to the
power distributionpanel. Repair the wire or replace
-
the harness.
/ 2
4
b. Meter indicates a voltage slightly lower than bat-
tery voltage-Proceed to Step 8.
Touch the positive test lead onto the tenninal in the har-
ness connector that aligns with the red wire (4, Figure 1. Black wire (to engine ground terminal)
49). Note the meter reading, then refer to the following: 2. Red wire (to voltage regulator or
power distribution panel)
a. Meter indicates 0 volt- An open or short exists on 3. Purple wire (to power distribution
the red wire connecting the power relay to the panel L terminal
starter solenoid. Repair the wire or replace the har- 4. Red wire (to starter solenoid terminal)
ness.
1. Disconnect the primary wire and spark plug wires 8. Reconnect the primary and spark plug wires to the ig-
fiom the ignition coil terminals. nition coil terminals.
2. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 or auto-range
scale.
Spark Plug Lead Resistance Test
3 . Coil mounted on the power head-Touch the positive
meter test lead to the mounting screw for the coil. Touch 1. Remove the spark plug lead fiom the plug and ignition
the negative test lead to a known good engine ground. The coil.
meter should indicate continuity. If otherwise, correct the 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the appropriate scale for
dirty, corroded or faulty coil ground circuit. measuring 600-1000 ohms.
4. Connect the negative test lead to the engine ground. If 3. Touch the positive test lead to the metal contact in one
the coil is removed from the power head, connect the lead of the wire boots and the negative test lead to the contact
to a clean unpainted metal surface on the coil housing or in the other boot.
the coil ground wire. Touch the positive meter test lead to 4. The meter should indicate 760-960 ohms for 90-115 hp
the primary wire terminal (Figure 50). The meter should and 650- 850 ohms for 200 and 225 hp.
indicate 0.05-0.15 ohm at a normal temperature of 68" F
5. Replace the spark plug lead if the meter indicates no
(20" C). If otherwise, the coil has a shorted or open pri-
continuity or if the resistance is not w i t h the specifica-
mary winding. Replace the suspect coil.
tion.
5. Calibrate the multimeter to the RxlOO or auto-range
6. Fit the spark plug lead onto the ignition coil and spark
scale.
6. Connect the negative test lead onto the engine ground. plug.
If the coil is removed from the power head, connect the
lead to a clean unpainted metal surface on the coil housing CHARGING SYSTEM
or the coil ground wire. Touch the positive meter test lead
to the plug wire terminal (Figure 50). The meter should This section describes testing procedures for the charg-
indicate 225-325 ohms at a normal temperature of 68" F ing system used with the Ficht direct fuel injection sys-
(20" C). If otherwise, the coil has a shorted or open sec- tem. To save time and reduce the chance of misdiagnosis,
ondary winding. Replace the suspect coil. always check for service codes, as described in t h ~ sSup-
7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the remaining coils on the plement, before testing the ignition system. If the service
engine. The test procedures and specifications for dou- code check reveals a fault with the charging system fault
ble coil units are the same as single coil units. Double is, perform the following procedures and in the order
coil units are simply two coils contained in one hous- shown. Many of the test procedures will vary by model
ing. and year of production. The test procedures address dif-
ferences where applicable.
The charging system consist of the lower and higher
voltage systems. The lower voltage system provides cur-
Plug wire
rent to charge the battery, operate on-board accessories
Primary terminals and operate the 12 volt circuits on the engine. The higher
voltage system supplies the 26 or 40 volt current to oper-
ate the direct fuel injectors, electric oil pump, ignition sys-
tem and the engine control unit (ECU) or engine
management module (EMM). A fault with the charging
system can result in a discharged battery, a no-start condi-
tion, rough engine operation or poor performance. Com-
ponents of the charging system include the flywheel,
stator, rectifierlregulator and the ECU or EMM.
WARNlhrG
Single coil Double coil
High voltage is present in the ignition sys-
unit unit tem. Electrical shock can result in serious
bodily injury or death. Never touch any
the engine or performing a test. Never per-
SUPPLEMENT
form electrical tests while standing in wa- repair the open or short circuit along the red wire to the
ter. power relay and starter solenoid terminal.
3. Disconnect the battery cable or turn the battery switch
12 Volt Charging System Test
OFF.
4. Trace the red wire (7, Figure 52) to the power relay
Perform this test if the code check reveals a battery (9), then to the starter solenoid (11). Disconnect the red
charging system fault. The main portion of this test must wire from the starter relay terminal. Three red wires con-
be performed under actual running conditions. This test nect to this solenoid terminal. Using a jumper wire, con-
requires a multimeter, 0-40 amp ammeter, jumper wire nect the ammeter in series between the disconnected wire
and a variable load battery load tester (Figure 51, typical). and its terminal on the starter solenoid as shown in Figure
The multimeter and ammeter are available from automo- 52. Connect the positive ammeter terminal to the discon-
tive or marine part stores and tool suppliers.The manufac- nected wire leading to the power relay. Connect the nega-
turer recommends the variable load testers available from tive ammeter terminal to the jumper lead connected to the
Stevens (part No. LB-85) and Snap-on (part No. starter solenoid terminal.
MT540D). 5. Reconnect the battery cables or turn the battery switch
Safely performing on-water tests requires two people. ON.
One person to operate the boat, the other to monitor the 6. Following the manufacture's instructions, connect the
gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain battery load tester onto the battery positive and negative
seated inside the boat at all times. Do not lean over the cables. Adjust the load tester to a 40 amp load. Do not ac-
transom while the boat is under way. Use extensions to al- tivate the load tester at this time.
low all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seat- 7. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
ing area. Connect the positive test lead to the positive battery termi-
Before beginning this test, fully charge the battery and nal. Connect the negative test lead to the negative battery
clean the battery terminals, as described in Chapter Seven. terminal.
Visually inspect all wiring for damage and all terminals 8. Have an assistant start the engine. Allow the engine to
for loose, duty or corroded contact. Faulty wiring or con- reach operating temperature, then advance the throttle to
nections can result in misdiagnosis and the replacement of 3000 rpm for 1997 and 1998 models and 2000 rpm for
otherwise good components. 1999 models.
9. Activate the load tester, then note the ammeter reading.
NOTE Progressively reduce the load on the tester while observ-
The appearance of thepower relay is identi- ing the ammeter reading. The ammeter must indicate
cal to the start delay relay used on some 35-40 amps at a 40 amp load that decreases as the load de-
models. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the creases.
end of the manual to identi& the wire colors 10. Deactivate the load tester and immediately note the
connected to the power relay. Erzh the multimeter reading. The meter should indicate approxi-
power relay by the connecting wire colors. mately 14.5 volts.
11. Stop the engine. Disconnect the battery cables or
1997-1999 models switch the battery switch OFF. Remove the ammeter, and
This section describes battery charging system output

and voltage regulator test procedures. The rectifierlregula-
tor is located under the ECU. It is not necessary to remove
the ECU to access the rectifierlregulator terminals. If ac-
cess to the terminal proves difficult, remove the fasteners
and lift the ECU just enough to access the terminals. Install
the ECU and securely tighten the terminals before running
the engine. Refer to Figure 52 for this procedure
2. Touch the positive test lead to the red (7, Figure 52)
terminal on the rectifierlregulator. Touch the negative ter-
minal to an engine ground. The meter should indicate bat-
tery voltage (approximately 12.0 volts). If otherwise,
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM OUTPUT' TEST

997-1999 MODELS)
(I
/
12 11
1. Rectifierlregulator
2. Black wire
3. Yellowlgreen terminal (to yellowlgray stator
wire and charge supressor)
4. Yellow terminal (to yellow stator wire
and charge suppressor)
5. Yellowhkack terminal (to yellowhlue stator wire
and charge suppressor)
6. Redlblack wire (to power distribution panel)
7. Red wire (to power relay and starter solenoid)
8. Whitelred wire (to capacitor and power
distribution panel)
9. Power relay
10. 0-40 amp ammeter (connected in series)
11. Starter solenoid
12. Battery
13. Yellowhlue wire (to stator 26 or 40 volt output)
14. Yellow wire (to stator 26 or 40 volt output)
15. Yellowlgray wire (to stator 26 or 40 volt output)
604 SUPPLEMENT
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM OUTPUT TEST

(200092002 MODELS)
1. Engine management module (EMM)

2. Yellowlblack stator wire (12 volt output)
3. Yellowlpurple stator wire (12 volt output)
4. Yellow sator wire (12 volt output)
5. Yellowlblue stator wire (12 volt output)
6. Yellowlgray stator wire (12 volt output)
7. Yellowlgreen stator wire (12 volt output)
8. Brownlyellow stator wire (40 volt output)
9. Borwdblack stator wire (40 volt output)
10. Browdgreen stator (40 volt output)
11. Browdprange stator wire (40 volt outplut)
12. Brown stator wire (40 volt output)
13. Brownlwhite stator wire (40 volt output)
14. Read and whitelred wire connector
15. Whitelred wire (to capacitor, power distribution
panel and EMM)
16. Power relay
17. 0-40 amp ammeter (connected in series)
18. Starter solenoid
19. Battery
load tester. Reconnect the power relay lead onto the from the starter relay terminal. Three red wires connect to
starter solenoid terminal. Reconnect the battery cables or this solenoid terminal. Using a jumper wire, connect the
switch the battery switch ON. ammeter in series between the disconnected wire and the
12A. Incorrect test results in Step 9 or Step 10 (1997 and terminal on the starter solenoid as shown in Figure 53.
1998 models)-Test the stator and suppressor as de- Connect the positive ammeter terminal to the discon-
scribed in this section. If these components test correctly, nected wire leading to the power relay. Connect the nega-
replace the rectifierlregulatoras described in the Chapter tive ammeter terminal to the jumper lead connected to the
Seven section of this Supplement. starter solenoid terminal.
12B.Incorrect test results in Step 9 or Step 10 (1999 mod- 5. Reconnect the battery cables or turn the battery switch
els)-Test the stator as described in this section. If the ON.
stator test correctly, replace the rectifierlregulator. 6. Following the manufacture's instructions, connect the
battery load tester to the battery positive and negative ca-
2000-2002 models bles. Adjust the load tester to a 40 amp load. Do not acti-
vate the load tester at this time.
This procedure measures the battery charging system 7. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
output and tests the operation of the voltage regulator cir- Connect the positive test lead to the positive battery termi-
cuits in the engine management module (EMM). On all nal. Connect the negative test lead to the negative battery
2000-2002 models, the rectifierlregulator circuits are inte- terminal.
grated into the EMM. Refer to Figure 53 for t h s proce- 8. Have an assistant start the engine. Allow the engine to
dure. reach operating temperature, then advance the throttle to
1. Locate, then unplug the connector (14, Figure 53) and 2000 rpm.
the red and whitelred wires from the EMM. The wires and 9. Activate the load tester, then note the ammeter reading.
connectors are on the opposite side fiom the EMM mount- Progressively reduce the load on the tester while observ-
ing bolthoss. ing the ammeter reading. The ammeter should indicate
2. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. 35-40 amps at a 40 amp load that decreases as the load de-
Touch the positive test lead to the red terminal in the en- creases.
gine harness connector. Do not touch the test lead to the 10. Deactivate the load tester and immediately note the
EMM harness connector. Touch the negative terminal to multimeter reading. The meter should indicate approxi-
an engine ground. The meter should indicate battery volt- mately 14.5 volts.
age (approximately 12.0 volts). If otherwise, repair the 11. Stop the engine. Disconnect the battery cables or
open or short circuit along the red wire to the power relay switch the battery switch OFF. Remove the ammeter, and
and starter solenoid terminal. Plug the red and whitelred load tester. Reconnect the power relay lead to the starter
harness connector onto the EMM connector. solenoid terminal. Reconnect the battery cables or switch
3. Disconnect the battery cable or turn the battery switch the battery switch ON.
OFF. 12. Incorrect test results in Step 9 or Step I G T e s t the
4. Trace the red wire to the power relay (16, Figure 53), stator as described in this section. If the stator tests cor-
then to the starter solenoid (18). Disconnect the red wire rectly, replace the EMM.
Auxiliary Battery Charging System Test
An auxiliary battery charging system is integrated into

the rectifierlregulator or engine management module
(EMM). This circuit senses the voltage of the auxiliary
battery (when used) and directs charging current to the
battery when needed. A separate harness connects the
auxiliary battery to the redblack wire terminal (Figure
54) on the power distributionmodule. The power distribu-
tion panel is located under the plastic cover on the upper
starboard side of the power head. This harness must use
10 gauge or larger diameter wiring and incorporate a 50
amp fuse or circuit breaker.
SUPPLEMENT
The main portion of this test must be performed under a. Meter indicates no continuity or high resis-
actual running conditions. Safely performing on-water tance-Repair or replace the faulty wiring or termi-
tests requires two people. One person to operate the boat, nal.
the other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All b. Meter indicates continuity--The cause for no or
personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times. low output to the auxiliary battery is not in the wir-
Do not lean over the transom while the boat is under way. ing. Replace the rectifierlregulator or EMM to re-
Use extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be lo- store correct operation.
cated in the normal seating area.
Use a common multimeter for this test.
1. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. 26 or 40 Volt Charging System Test
Touch the positive test lead to the positive terminal of the
auxiliary battery. Connect the negative test lead to the Perform this test if the code check reveals a fault with
negative terminal of the auxiliary battery. Note and record the 26 or 40 volt charging system. The main portion of this
the battery voltage. If the voltage is less than 8.5 volts, test must be performed under actual running conditions.
charge the battery before beginning the test. Safely performing on-water tests requires two people.
2. Turn the ignition key switch to the OFF position. One person to operate the boat, the other to monitor the
Touch the positive test lead to the rediblack wire terminal gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain
(Figure 54) on the power distribution panel. Touch the seated inside the boat at all times. Do not lean over the
negative test lead to the negative terminal of the auxiliary transom while the boat is under way. Use extensions to al-
battery. Note and record the meter reading. The meter low all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seat-
should indicate the same voltage as measured in Step 1. If ing area.
otherwise, check the fuse or circuit breaker and the auxil- Before beginning this test, fully charge the battery and
iary battery wiring and terminals. Replace the wiring if no clean the battery terminals, as described in the Chapter
faults are found with the fuse, circuit breaker or terminals. Seven. Visually inspect all wiring for damage and all ter-
3. With the test leads connected as described in Step 2, minals for loose, dirty or corroded contact. Faulty wiring
have the assistant start the engine and advance the throttle or connections can result in misdiagnosis and the replace-
to 1000 rpm. The meter should indicate a voltage higher ment of otherwise good components.
than the reading in Step 2. Use a common multimeter for this test. Refer to Figure
4. Observe meter while the assistant slowly advances the 45 to locate the components and test lead connection
throttle to approximately 3000 rpm. The meter should in- points on the power distribution panel. The power distri-
dicate a corresponding increase in voltage with increased bution panel is located under the plastic cover on the up-
engine speed that reaches approximately 14.5 volts at per starboard side of the power head.
3000 rpm. Return the engine to idle speed, then stop the 1. Remove the 10 amp fuse (5, Figure 45) from the
engine. power distribution panel. Inspect and test the fuse as fol-
a. Correct test results in Step 3 and Step 4-The lows:
charging system for the auxiliary battery is operat-
a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
ing correctly and no further testing is required.
(Figure 46). Replace the fuse if blown or physically
b. Incorrect test results in Step 3 or Step 4-Proceed to
damaged.
Step 5.
5. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Disconnect b. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch
the rediblack wire from the terminal (Figure 54) on the the positive test lead to one fuse terminal and the
power distribution terminal. negative test lead to the other terminal. The meter
a. 1997-1999models-Disconnect the rediblack wire should indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is
(6, Figure 52) from the rectifierlregulator. blown or has failed to open and must be replaced.
b. 2000-2002 models-Trace the rediblack wire to its c. Carefully insert the fuse into its original opening in
connectionto the EMM. Unplug the three-wire con- the panel.
nector that contains the rediblack wire. 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
6. Touch the positive test lead to the rediblack wire at the Touch the positive test lead onto the positive battery ter-
power distribution panel end. Touch the negative test lead minal. Touch the negative test lead to the negative termi-
to redlblack wire terminal at the rectifierlregulator or nal. Note and record the battery voltage.
EMM end. The meter should indicate continuity. Refer to 3. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position. Do not
the following: start the engine at this time.
~ 1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 607
4. Connect the negative test lead onto an engine ground. tion. Replace the rectifierlregulator if the capacitor
Do not connect the test lead to the mounting bracket for and the stator test correctly.
the ECU or EMM. Observe the meter while touching the 5D. 90-225 hp (2000-2002 models)-Test the 40 volt out-
positive test lead to one of the exposed terminal on the 10
I amp fuse (5, Figure 45). The meter should indicate
put as follows:
0.5-1.0 less than the voltage measured in Step 2. Record a. Calibrate the multimeter to the 100 or 200 VDC
the meter reading. scale. Connect the meter test leads as described in
Step 4.
5A. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Test the 26 volt
output as follows: b. Have the assistant start the engine and slowly ad-
a. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Con- vance the throttle to 1000rpm. The meter must indi-
nect the meter test leads as described in Step 4. cate 40.0-42.0 VDC at 1000 rpm. If otherwise, the
b. Observe the meter reading while the assistant starts stator, capacitor, EMM or connecting wiring is
the engine. At idle speed, the meter should indicate faulty. First check the wiring. If the wiring checks
a voltage higher than the voltage recorded in Step 4. satisfactorily, test the capacitor as described in this
chapter and test the stator as described in this sec-
c. Observe the meter reading while the assistant
tion. Replace the EMM if the capacitor and the
slowly advances the throttle to full open. The volt-
stator test correctly.
age reading should increase to 26.0-28.0 volts and
I remain steady at all engine speeds. If otherwise, the 6. Return the engine to idle speed. Then, stop the engine.
I capacitor, stator, rectifierlregulator or connecting
I wiring is faulty. First check the wiring. If the wiring
I
checks satisfactorily, test the capacitor as described Suppressor Test
I (150 and 175 hp 11997 and 19981)
in this chapter and test the stator as described in this
section. Replace the rectifierlregulatorif the capaci-
tor and the stator test correctly. The suppressor is located on the upper rear starboard
5B. 90-115 hp (1998 and 1999) and 150-175 hp side of the power head. Three yellow wires connect the
I
I (1999)-Test the 26 volt output as follows: Suppressor to the yellowlgreen, yellow and yellowhlack
I a. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Con- terminals (3,4 and 5, Figure 52) on the rectifierlregulator.
nect the meter test leads as described in Step 4. Ablack wire connects the suppressor to the black terminal
b. Have the assistant start the engine and advance the (2, Figure 52) on the rectifierlregulator. Use a multimeter
I throttle to 1000rpm. The meter reading should indi- for this test.
i 1
cate 26.0-28.0 volts. If otherwise, the capacitor,
stator, rectifierlregulator or connecting wiring is
faulty. First check the wiring. If the wiring checks
satisfactorily, test the capacitor as described in this
1. Disconnect the battery cables or turn the battery switch
OFF.
2. Disconnect the four yellow suppressor wire fiom the I
chapter and test the stator as described in this sec-
black, yellowlgreen, yellow and yellowhlack terminals 1
on the rectifierlregulator.
tion. Replace the rectifierlregulator if the capacitor
I and the stator test correctly. 3. Calibrate a multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the
5C. 200 and 225 hp (1999)-Test the 40 volt output as negative test lead to the black suppressor wire. Note the
I follows: meter reading while touching the positive test lead to each
of the yellow suppressor wires. The meter should indicate
a. Calibrate the multimeter onto the 100 or 200 VDC
no continuity at each connection point. If continuity is
scale. Connect the meter test leads as described in
noted at any of the connection points, the suppressor is
Step 4.
shorted and must be replaced.
b. Monitor the meter and tachometer readings while
the assistant starts the engine and slowly advances 4. Reconnect the suppressor wires to their respective rec-
the throttle. The meter reading should indicate 24.0 tifierlregulator terminals. Connect a yellow suppressor
volts or higher at idle speed and 39.0 volts or higher wire can to the yellowlgreen, yellow and yellowhlack
at 1500 rpm and above. If otherwise, the capacitor, rectifierlregulator terminals. Connect the black
stator, rectifierlregulator or connecting wiring is suppressor wire to the black terminal on the rectifierlregu-
faulty. First check the wiring. If the wiring checks lator.
satisfactorily, test the capacitor as described in this 5. Reconnect the battery cables or switch the battery
chapter and test the stator as described in this sec- switch ON.
SUPPLEMENT
Suppressor Diode Test 5. Touch the meter test lead to the terminals of the wire
(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981) color combinations specified in Table 7.
6. All stator resistance measurements must be within the
The suppressor (Figure 26) mounts to the plastic cover specifications (Table 7). If otherwise, replace the stator.
on the rear of the power head. A red and purple/yellow 7. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
wire connect the suppressor to the engine wire harness. Touch the positive test lead to each of the stator lead ter-
The black wire connects to the suppressor mounting minals. The meter should indicate no continuity at each
screw and serves as the ground. A multimeter is required test lead connection point. A continuity reading at any test
for this test. points indicates the stator is shorted to ground and must be
1. Disconnect the battery cables or turn the battery switch replaced.
OFF. 8. Reconnect each stator lead onto its corresponding rec-
2. Carefully unplug the red and purple/yellow wire con- tifierlregulator terminal (see Figure 52). The longer bat-
nector from the suppressor. tery charging output wire leads connect to the terminals
3. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the on the starboard side of the rectifierlregulator.
negative test lead to an engine ground (not the suppressor
9. Install the ECU as described in the Chapter Seven sec-
ground). Touch the positive test lead to the black Suppres-
tion of t h s Supplement.
sor wire terminal. The meter should indicate continuity. If
otherwise, remove the mounting screw and clean the
screw opening and black wire terminals. Stator Test (2000-2002 Models)
4. Touch the positive test lead to one of the suppressor
terminal. Touch the negative test lead to the suppressor The first part of the test measures the resistance and
black wire terminal, then note the meter reading. Touch checks for a short to ground for the battery charging and
the negative test lead to the same suppressor terminal. 40 volt system. The second part of the test measures the
Touch the positive test lead to the suppressor black wire output from the stator at normal cranlung speed (150-225
terminal, then note the meter reading. The meter should rpm).
indicate continuity and no continuity with the reversed test Due to the low resistance and voltage output specifica-
lead polarity. tions, use only a digital multimeter for this test. It is not
5. Repeat Step 4 using the other suppressorterminal. The necessary to remove the stator for testing.
test results should be the same for either suppressor termi- 1. Trace the twelve wires fiom the stator to the eight and
nal. If otherwise, the suppressor diode is shorted and must twelve-pin connectors to the engine management module
be replaced. (EMM). Unplug both the eight and twelve-pin connectors
6. Plug the red and purplelyellow wire connector onto the 2. Calibrate the digital multimeter to the R x 1 scale.
diode. 3. Touch the meter test leads to each combination the
7. Connect the battery cables or switch the battery switch stator wire terminals specified in Table 7. Refer to Figure
ON. 55 to determine the corresponding terminals for the speci-
fied stator wire colors. Test lead polarity does not affect
Stator Test (1997-1999 Models) the test results for this procedure. All stator resistance
measurements should be within the specifications (Table
This procedure test the stator coil windings for the bat- 7). If otherwise, replace the stator.
tery charging and 26 or 40 volt system. Due to the low re- 4. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
sistance specifications, use only an accurate digital Touch the positive test lead to each of the stator terminals.
multimeter for this test. It is not necessary to remove the The meter should indicate no continuity at each test lead
stator for testing. connection point. A continuity reading at any test points
1. To provide access to the wire terminals, remove the en- indicates the stator is shorted to ground and should be re-
gine control unit (ECU) as described in the Chapter Seven placed.
section of this Supplement. 5. To prevent the engine from starting during the output
2. Note the wire routing and connection points, then dis- test, unplug the crankshaft position sensor harness fiom
connect the six stator wires from the rectifierlregulator. the engine harness. The crankshaft position sensor (A,
3. Separate the battery charging output wires from the 26 Figure 41) is located on the top of the power head and
or 40 volt output wires. The battery charging output wire next to the flywheel.
are longer than the 26 or 40 volt output wires. 6. Calibrate the digital multimeter to the 1.0 or 2.0 VAC
4. Calibrate the digital multimeter to the R x 1 scale. scale.
7. Touch the meter test leads to the first two wire colors
and terminals specified in Table 8. Refer to Figure 55 to
determine the corresponding terminal in the connectors.
STATOR CONNECTIONS TO ENGINE Test lead polarity does not affect the test results for this
MANAGEMENT MODULE
procedure.
(2000-2002 MODELS)
8. Note and record the meter reading while the assistant
places the ignition key switch in the ON position.
Eight-pin connector 9. Repeat Step 7 and Step 8 for the remaining eight test
lead connectionpoints. Record the meter reading for each
test point.
10. Compare the AC voltage measurement for all test
with the specifications in Table 8. The specifications will
vary by the test lead connection points. All voltage mea-
surements must be within the specification. If otherwise,
the stator has a shorted or open winding and must be re-
placed.
11. Plug the crankshaft position sensor wire harness into
the engine wire harness connection.
Twelve-pin connector 12. Plug the eight and twelve-pin connectors into the
EMM. Route all wiring to prevent interference with mov-
ing components.
FUEL SYSTEM
This section describes testing procedures for the fuel

system used with the Ficht direct fuel injection system. To
save time and reduce the chance of misdiagnosis, always
check for service codes, as described in this Supplement,
before testing the fuel system. If the service code check
reveals a fuel system component fault, perform the test for
the designated component or system. If no codes are pres-
ent and the fuel system is suspected of causing and engine
1. Protrusion (eight-pin connector) malfunction, perform the following procedures, and in the
2. Empty terminal order shown. Depending on test results, the test proce-
3. Brown wire terminal
4. Brownlgreen wire terminal
dures may direct you to perform some test ahead of others.
5. Brown/yellow wire terminal Many of the test procedures will vary by model and year
6. Empty terminal of production. The test procedures address differences
7. Brownlwhite wire terminal where applicable.
8. Brownlorange wire terminal
1. Fuel check.
9. Brownlblack wire terminal
10. Indentation (12-pin connector) 2. Fuel pressure test.
11. Yellowlgreen wire terminal 3. Electric fuel pump voltage test.
12. Yellowlgray wire terminal 4. Check for a flooding vapor separator tank.
13. Yellowlblue wire terminal
5. Check for direct injector operation.
14. Yellow wire terminal
15. Yellowlpurple wire terminal 6 . Check the voltage supply to the direct injector.
16. Yellowlblack wire terminal 7. Check the start assist system (200 and 225 hp).
17. Yellowlgreen wire terminal 8. Engine temperature switch test.
18. Yellowlgray wire terminal
9. Engine temperature sensor test.
19. Yellowlblue wire terminal
20. Yellow wire terminal 10. Air temperature sensor test
21. Yellowlpurple wire terminal 11. Throttle position sensor test.
22. Yellow/black wire terminal 12. Water in fuel sensor test.
13. Shift interrupt switch test.
SUPPLEMENT
Fuel Check Electricfuel pump pressure test
This test measures the fuel pressure delivered by the

Check the fuel if the engine refuses to start or if the en-
electric fuel pump. Use a 0- 100psi (0-690 kPa) fuel pres-
gine runs poorly. The easiest method for checking the fuel sure gauge with a schraeder valve connector for this test.
is to simply remove the water separating fuel filter (Fig- A schraeder valve resembles a tire stem valve. Purchase
ure 56), then empty the fuel into a suitable container. A
this type of fuel gauge fi-om a tool supplier. The location
transparent container is especially useful as it allows a
of the fuel pressure test port (Figure 57, typical) will
clear visual inspection of the fuel. The water separating
vary by model and year of production. Refer to the fol-
fuel filter is designed to capture small amounts of water
lowing:
contamination. Finding a small amount of water in the fil-
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Two fuel pressure
ter is a normal occurrence and does not adversely effect
test ports are located on the top of the vapor separatortank
the engine. However, a significant amount of water or a at the fi-ont of the power head. The low pressure fuel test
foul odor are sure signs of contaminated or stale fuel.
port is for measuring fuel pressure fi-om the diaphragm
Drain contaminated or stale fuel from the on-board tanks,
fuel pump. It threads vertically into the top of the tank.
then remove and clean all fuel system components. The high pressure test port is for measuring fuel pressure
Change the fuel filters to capture any residual contami-
from the electric fuel pump. It threads horizontally into
nants before operating the engine. Always securely
the fuel pressure regulator hose fitting.
tighten the fuel filter upon installation. Check for and cor- 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-175 hp
rect any source of fuel leakage before operating the en-
(1999-2002)-The test port is located along the fuel re-
gine. turn hose on the rear and starboard side of the power
head.
200 and 225 hp -The test port is located along the fuel
Fuel Pressure Test
return hose on the lower port side of the power head.
The main portion of this test must be performed under
The most basic test on any electronic fuel injected en- actual running condtions. Safely performing on-water
gine is the fuel pressure test. This test verifies that fuel is tests requires two people. One person to operate the boat,
being supplied to the direct injectors at the required pres- the other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All
sure. While this test can venfy the fuel pump and regula- personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times.
tor are operating under controlled conditions, it cannot Do not lean over the transom while the boat is under way.
verify whether fuel pressure is adequate at all engine oper- Use extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be lo-
ating speeds. For this reason, always check the fuel pres- cated in the normal seating area.
sure at all throttle settings and under actual operating
conditions. Leaking fuel lines, restricted passages and W-G
blocked filters can restrict and reduce fuel flow. If a fuel The fuel system operates under high pres-
restriction is present, the fuel pressure may be correct at sure. Any leakage from the fuel hoses will
lower engine speeds, but decline dramatically at higher allow thefuel to spray out and create a haz-
ardous condition. Continually monitor the
engine speeds. If this symptom is noted, check the filters,
the on-board tank anti-siphon valve, fuel tank and fuel de-
livery hoses.
The first test in this section measures the fuel pressure
supplied by the electric fuel pump. The second test mea-
sures the fuel pressure delivered by the diaphragm fuel
Pump-
WARIWVG
Use extreme caution when working with the
fuel system. Fuel can spray out under high
pressure. Always use required safety gear.
Never smoke orpefl0i-m any test around an
openflame or other source of ignition. Fuel
and/or vapor can ignite or explode, result-
ing in injury or death.
fuel gauge to test port connection for leak- engine reaches full speed. The pressure at all engine
age during the fuel pressure test. Immedi- speeds should be 20-30 psi (138-207 Ha). Ifthe fuel pres-
ately stop the engine if leakage occurs. sure remains in this range, the source of the engine mal-
Correct the source of fuel leakage before function check the ignition system, direct injectors or
proceeding with the test. engine control system. If the fuel pressure is not within the
1. Locate the fuel pressure test port, then remove the cap range at any speed, refer to the following:
to access the valve. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting a. Lowfuelpressure at all engine speed-Test the dia-
to capture spilled fuel, then thread or clip the pressure phragm fuel pump as described in this section. If the
gauge fully onto the fitting. Secure the gauge and hose to diaphragm fuel pump tests correctly, replace the
prevent excessive movement during engine operation. fuel pressure regulator or vapor separator tank as-
2. Pump the primer bulb to fill the vapor separator tank sembly as described in the Chapter Six section of
with fuel. this Supplement and retest.
3. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant switches b. Highfuelpressure at any engine speed-Inspect the
the ignition key switch to the ON position. Do not start the fuel return hoses for restrictions. If no restriction is
engine at this time. Immediately check for and correct any found, replace the fuel pressure regulator or vapor
fuel leakage before proceeding. The electric fuel pump separator tank assembly as described in the Chapter
should operate for approximately ten seconds, then shut it Six section of this Supplement and retest.
off. The fuel pressure gauge should indicate 20-30 psi c. Correctfuelpressure at low speed, but lowpressure
(138-207 kPa) while the pump operates. If the pump operat high speed--Test the diaphragm fuel pump as de-
ates as described proceed to Step 4. If not, refer to the fol- scribed in this section.
lowing: d. High fuel pressure at low speed, but correct pres-
a. Fuel pump does not operate-Perform the electric sure at high speed-Inspect the fuel return hoses for
fuel pump voltage test as described in this section. restrictions. If no restriction is found, replace the
b. Electric pump operates, but has no or low pres- fuel pressure regulator or vapor separator tank as-
sure-Test the diaphragm fuel pump as described in sembly as described in the Chapter Six section of
t h s section. If the pressure is correct, replace the this Supplement and retest.
fuel pressure regulator or vapor separator tank as-
5. Stop the engine. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel
sembly as described in the Chapter Six section of
pressure test port to capture spilled fuel. Unthread or
this Supplement and retest.
unclip the fuel pressure gauge. Check the pressure port for
c. Electric pump operates, but has fuelpressure is too
fuel leakage while switchingthe ignition key switch to the
high-Inspect the he1 return hoses for restrictions.
ON position. Turn the ignition key switchto the OFF posi-
If no restriction is found, replace the fuel pressure
tion.
regulator or vapor separator tank assembly as de-
scribed in the Chapter Six section of this Supple- 6. If fuel leaks from the fitting, remove the test port valve
ment and retest. using a tire stem tod. Clean debris from the fitting or re-
4. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant starts place the valve to stop the leakage.
the engine and runs at idle speed. Note the pressure, then 7. Carefully thread the protective cap onto the pressure
have the assistant gradually increase the throttle until the test port.
Diaphragm fuelpump test

(150 and 1 75 hp (1 997 and 19981)
This test measures the fuel pressure delivered by the di-

aphragm fuel pump..Use a 0- 15 psi (0-103 kPa) fuel pres-
sure gauge equipped with a schraeder valve adapter for
this test. A portable fuel tank and fuel supply hose with a
fiesh supply of fuel may be required as well. A schraeder
valve resembles a tire stem valve. Purchase the fuel pres-
sure gauge from a tool supplier, an automotive or marine
part store. Purchase the portable fuel tank and supply hose
from a marine dealership.
SUPPLEMENT
The main portion of this test must be performed under fuel pressure remains low, perform a compression
actual running conditions. Safely performing on-water test as described in Chapter Four.
tests requires two people. One person to operate the boat, 5. Stop the engine. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel
the other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All pressure test port to capture spilled fuel. Unthread or
personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times. unclip the fuel pressure gauge. Carefully thread the pro-
Do not lean over the transom while the boat is under way. tective cap onto the pressure test port.
Use extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be lo-
cated in the normal seating area.
1. Locate the fuel pressure test port for the diaphragm Diaphragm fuel pump test (90-225 hp (1999-20021)
fuel pump. The low pressure fuel test port is for measuring
fuel pressure fiom the diaphragm fuel pump. It threads This test isolates fuel delivery problems to determine if
vertically into the top of the tank. The high pressure test an engine malfunction is the result of a failed diaphragm
port is for measuring fuel pressure from the electric fuel fuel pump, fuel supply hose and on-board tank or other
pump. It threads horizontally into the fuel pressure regula- fuel system component. These models are not provided
tor hose fitting. with a pressure test port for the diaphragm fuel pump. The
2. Unthread the protective cap from the fitting. Wrap a manufacturer does not provide pump output specifica-
shop towel around the fitting to capture spilled fuel, then tions. The easiest and most effective means to check the
thread or clip the pressure gauge fully onto the fitting. Se- pump is to operate the engine using a portable fuel tank
cure the gauge and hose to prevent excessive movement and supply hose with a fkesh supply of fuel. Purchase the
during engine operation. portable tank and supply hose fiom a reputable marine
3. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant starts dealership.
the engine. Note the pressure reading, then observe the The main portion of this test must be performed under
pressure readings while the assistant gradually advances actual running conditions. Safely performing on-water
the throttle until the engine reaches full speed. The gauge tests requires two people. One person to operate the boat,
should indicate 2-10 psi (14-69 kPa) of fuel pressure at all the other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All
engine speeds. Refer to the following: personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times.
a. Fuelpressure is correct-The fuel supply hose, fuel Do not lean over the transom while the boat is under way.
tankpickup and diaphragm fuelpump are operating Use extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be lo-
correctly. Proceed to Step 5. cated in the normal seating area.
b. Fuel pressure is less than the speciJication-Pro- 1. Trace the fuel supply hose fkom the primer bulb to its
ceed to Step 4. connection onto the diaphragm fuel pump. Carefully dis-
c. Fuel pressure exceeds the speczjication-Disas- connect the supply hose from the fuel pump inlet fitting.
semble the vapor separator tank and check for a Connect the supply hose from the portable tank to the fuel
stuck pressure vent valve. If the valve is not stuck, pump inlet fitting. Route the hose to prevent pinching or
perform a compression test as described in Chapter interference with moving components.
Four. In rare cases, a fault cylinder can cause exces- 2. Have an assistant operate the engine at the speed range
sively high fuel pressure. where the malfunction occurs. If the engine begins to run
4. Trace the fuel supply hose ii-omthe primer bulb to its rough or misfire, vigorously squeeze the primer bulb to
connection onto the diaphragm type fuel pump. Carefully simulate a working fuel pump. Note if the engine opera-
disconnect the supply hose fkom the fuel pump inlet fit- tion improves or remains the same. Refer to the following:
ting. Connect the supply hose from the portable tank onto a. No improvement-The fault is with components
the fuel pump inlet fitting. Route the hose to prevent other than the fuel tank, fuel supply hose or dia-
pinching or interference with moving components. Re- phragm fuel pump. Check the remaining fuel sys-
peat Step 3 with the engine operating fiom the portable tem components and all ignition system
fuel tank. Refer to the following: components as described in this Supplement.
a. Correct fiel pressure-The on-board fuel tank b. Improved running condition without pumping the
pickup, anti-siphon valve, primer bulb or fuel sup- primer bul&The on-board fuel tank pickup,
ply hose is faulty. Inspect or replace these compo- anti-siphon valve, primer bulb or fuel supply hose is
nents as necessary. faulty. Inspect or replace these components as nec-
b. Low fiel pressure-Repair or replace the dia- essary.
phragm fuel pump as described in the Chapter Six c. Improved running condition only while pumping
section of this Supplement. Repeat the test. If the the primer bul&-The diaphragm fuel pump is not
operating correctly. Repair or replace the dia- b.90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-175 hp
phragm fuel pump as described in the Chapter Six (1999-2002)-The pump is located on the rear of
section of this Supplement. Repeat the test. If the the power head and to the port side of the vapor sep-
fuel pressure remains low, perform a compression arator tank.
test as described in Chapter Four. c. 200 and 225 hp (1999-2002)-The pump is located
3. Stop the engine. Disconnect the portable fuel tank hose on the lower port side of the power head and to the
from the fuel pump inlet fitting. Connect the on-board rear of the water separating fuel filter.
tank hose to the fitting and secure with suitable clamps. 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
Clean up any spilled fuel before operating the engine. Trace the black and purpleblack wires from the fuel
pump to the engine harness connector. Insert the negative
Electric Fuel Pump Voltage Test test lead probe between the wire insulatingjacket and con-
nector (Figure 37) to contact the black wire terminal in
This procedure test voltage supply to the electric fuel the connector. The probe must contact the metal contact.
pump (Figure 58, typical). Perform this test if the electric Touch the positive test lead to the positive terminal of the
fuel pump does not operate for 10 seconds while the igni- battery. The meter should indicate battery voltage (ap-
tion switch in the ON position. A multimeter and suitable proximately 12.0 volt). If not, the black wire connecting
test probes are required for this test. the fuel pump to ground is open and must be repaired or
Refer to Figure 45 to locate the components and test replaced.
lead connection points on the power distribution panel. 3. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. In-
The power distribution panel is located under the plastic sert the positive test lead probe between the wire insulat-
cover on the upper starboard side of the power head. ing jacket and connector (Figure 37) to contact the
purplelblack wire terminal in the connector. The probe
CAUTION
Since many of the test procedures must be must contact the metal contact. Observe the meter and
made with the wiring connected, it is oj?en note if the fuel pump operates while an assistant places the
necessary to insert the test lead probe be- ignition key switch in the ON position. The meter should
tween the wire connector seal and the wire read battery voltage for approximately 10 seconds then
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal drop to 0 volt. Turn the ignition key switch to the OFF po-
(see Figure 37). Use a small diameter test sition, then refer to the following:
lead probe with a sharpened tip and work a. Meter indicates battery voltage but the fuel pump
carefully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, does not operate-The electric fuel pump is seized
seal or connector Do notpuncture the wire or has failed electrically. Replace the electric fuel
pump as described in the Chapter Six section of this
1. Locate the electric fuel pump on the engine. Refer to Supplement.
the following: b. Meter indicates battery voltage and the fuel pump
a. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-The pump is lo- operates-The voltage supply to the electric fuel
cated on the front of the power head and to the star- pump is correct. Replace the fuel pressure regulator
board side of the vapor separator tank. or electric fuel pump if low fuel pressure is present
and all other fuel system components test correctly.
c. Meter indicates 0 volt but the uumu does not ouer-
L L
ate-Proceed to Step 4.
4. Remove the 10 amp fuse (4, Figure 45) from the
power distribution panel.
a. Visually inspect the fuse for a blown condition (Fig-
ure 46). Replace the fuse if blown or physically
damaged. A blown fuse is generally the result of a
short within the electric fuel pump.
b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the
positive test lead to one fuse terminal and the nega-
tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should
indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown
or has failed open and must be replaced.
614 SUPPLEMENT
c. Carefully insert the fuse into its original opening in 7. Carefully remove the electric fuel pump relay (9, Fig-
the panel. ure 45) from the power distribution panel. Calibrate the
5. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch the negative test lead
Touch the positive test lead to one of the exposed termi- to the vacant relay terminal 85 in the power distribution
nal on the 10 amp fuse (4, Figure 45). Note the meter panel. Touch the positive meter test lead against the metal
reading while an assistant places the ignition key switch terminal in the C terminal on the 14-pin connector (Fig-
in the ON position. The meter should indicate battery ure 45). Note the meter reading, then refer to the follow-
voltage for 10 seconds, the drops to 0 volt. Turn the igni- ing:
tion key switch to the OFF position, then refer to the fol- a. Meter indicates no continuity-The power distribu-
lowing: tion panel has failed open and must be replaced. Re-
a. Meter indicates battery voltage- Proceed to Step install the fuel pump relay.
6. b. Meter indicates continuipproceed to Step 8.
b. Meter indicates 0 volt during the 10 second on pe- 8. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual
riod-Test the power relay as described in the igni- and identlfy the brown wire connecting C terminal on the
tion system section of this Supplement. power distribution panel to the engine control unit (ECU)
6. Carefully remove the electric fuel pump relay (9, Fig- or engine management module (EMM). Locate the ECU
ure 45) fkom the power distribution panel. Refer to Fig- or EMM connector housing the brown wire, then care-
ure 47 to identlfy the relay terminals in the power
distributionpanel. Connect the negative test lead to an en-
gine ground. Touch the positive test lead to the relay ter-
minal 30 in the power distribution panel. Observe the
meter while an assistant places the ignition key switch in
@ VAPOR SEPARATOR
HOSE CONNECTIONS
the RUN position. Turn the ignition key switch OFF, then
(150 AND 175 HP MODELS
touch the positive test lead to the relay terminal 86 in the
[I997 AND 19981)
power distribution panel. Again, note the meter reading
while an assistant places the ignition key switch in the
RUN position. The meter should indicate battery voltage
for the 10 second on period on both test lead connection
points. Refer to the following:
a. Meter indicates 0 volt at one or both connection
points-The power distribution panel is open or
shorted and must be replaced.
b. Meter indicates battery voltage at both connection 2
points-Replace the fuel pump relay or temporarily
substitute one of the power trim relays, then check
for fuel pump operation. If the fuel pump does not
operate with the replacement relay, proceed to Step 9'
7.
1. Fuel inlet fitting
2. Fuel inlet hose (from water
separating fuel filter)
3. Vapor separator vent hose
(to intake manifold fitting)
4. Vapor separator vent fitting
5. Fuel pressure test port (diaphragm
fuel pump pressure)
6. Fuel return hose (from direct fuel
injectors)
7. Fuel pressure regulator fitting
8. Fuel pressure test port (electric fuel
pressure)
9. Vapor separator tank
(as view from top)
fully unplug the connector. Calibrate the multimeter to the of the stop circuit test. Replace the ECU or EMM to
R x 1 scale. Touch the positive test lead to metal contact in restore electric fuel pump operation only after verify-
the harness connector for the brown wire. Touch the posi- ing that all related wiring and relays test correctly. A
tive meter test lead against the metal terminal in the C ter- fault with the ECU or EMM is relatively rare and re-
minal on the 14-pin connector (Figure 45). Note the placement seldom corrects the malfunction.
meter reading, then refer to the following:
a. Meter indicates no continuitp-The brown wire has
Checking for a Flooding Vapor Separator Tank
failed open. Repair or replace the wire to restore
electric fuel pump operation. Reinstall the fuel This test checks for evidence of flooding in the vapor
pump relay. separator tank (Figure 59). Flooding will result in rough
b. Meter indicates continui~Perform the Stop Cir- engine operation, particularly at lower engine speeds and
cuit Test as described in this Supplement. The ECU excessive exhaust smoke.
or EMM is suspect if all previous test results are cor- The mounting location for the vapor separator tank will
rect and the meter indicates batteiy voltage in Step 5 vary by model and year of production. Refer to the follow-
ing to assist with locating the vapor separator tank.
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-The vapor separator
tank is located on the front of the power head and directly
below the flywheel cover.
VAPOR SEPARATOR 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-175 hp
HOSE CONNECTIONS (1999-2002)-The vapor separator tank is located on the
90-115 HP MODELS [1998-20021 rear of the power head.
AND 150-225 HP MODELS [I999-2002]) 200 and 225 hp -The vapor separator tank is located
on the lower port side of the power head.
2
WARNING
3 Use extreme caution when working with the
fuel system. Fuel can spray out under high
pressure. Always use required safety gear:
Never smoke or perform any test around an
openjlame or other source of ignition. Fuel
8 ing in injury or death.
This test requires a container suitable for holding fuel. It

is not necessary to run the engine for this test.
9 1. Refer to Figure 60 or Figure 61 as appropriate to assist
with locating the vapor separator tank vent hose fitting.
1. Vapor separator vent fitting Trace the vent hose fitting to its connection onto the intake
2. Vapor separator vent hose manifold (Figure 62).
(to intake manifold fitting)
3. Fuel hose to direct injectors
(from electric fuel pump)
4. Electric fuel pump
5. Fuel outlet fitting (from
electric fuel pump)
6. Cooling water outlet hose
(from ECU or EMM)
7. Cooling water inlet hose
(fmm cylinder block fitting)
8. Fuel return hose (from
direct injectors)
9. Fuel inlet hose (from water
seperating fuel filter)
10. Vapor separator tank
(as view from the side)
SUPPLEMENT
2. Remove the clamp, then carefully disconnect the hose b. None of the injectors are clickingZheck the volt-
from the fitting. Direct the hose into a container suitable age supply to the injectors as described in ths sec-
for holding fuel. Note if fuel flows from the hose. tion.
3. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while observing the c. Only some injectors are clicking-Proceed to Step
hose. 3.
4. The vapor separator tank is flooding if fuel exited 3. Remove the three 10 amp fuses (2,3 and 6, Figure 45).
when the hose is directed into the container or if fuel flows a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
fiom the hose while squeezing the primer bulb. (Figure 46). Replace blown or physically damaged
fuses.
5. If the tank is flooding, disassemble and inspect or re-
b. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch
place the vapor separator tank as described in the Chapter
the positive test lead to a fuse terminal and the nega-
Six section of this Supplement.
tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should
6. Reconnect the vapor separator tank vent hose to the in- indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown
take manifold fitting. Secure the hose with the clamp. or has failed open and must be replaced. Repeat this
Route the hose to prevent interference with moving com- step for the remaining two fuses.
ponents. c. Carefully insert the fuses into their original open-
ings in the panel.
Checking for Direct Injector Operation 4. Connect the inductive pickup of the timing light to the
( wiring for one of the injectors (Figure 64). Have an assis-
tant START the engine whle monitoring the timing light
Th~sprocedure checks for the direct injector operation
flashes. Change the orientation of the inductive pickup if
while cranking andlor running. The first part of the test
the light does not flash. Some timing lights are sensitiveto
checks for the audible noise created during injector opera-
which side faces the injector side of the wiring. Note if the
tion. The second part of the test checks for an electrical
light flashes and the injector position on the power head.
pulse that operates the injectors. A mechanics stetho-
Repeat this step for the remaining injectors. Stop the en-
scope, multimeter and an inductive timing light are re-
gine, Compare the test results for each injector with test
quired for this procedure.
results in Step 2. Refer to the following:
If the engine malfunction occurs only while under way, a. Timing light isjlashing but the injector is not click-
it will be necessary to perform some of the testing under ing-The injector has failed. Replace the injector or
actual running conditions. Safely performing on-water temporarily substitute a known good injector and
tests requires two people. One person to operate the boat, retest.
the other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All b. Eming light is not jlashing on any of the cylin-
personnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times. ders-Test the crankshaft position sensor, charging
Do not lean over the transom while the boat is under way. system and power relay as described in this chapter.
Use extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be lo- c. Timing light is notjlashing on all cylinders--Check
cated in the normal seating area. the fuses as described in Step 3. If the fuses test cor-
1. Prepare the engine for operation on a flushhest device, rectly, test the crankshaft position sensor as de-
in a test tank or operationunder actual running conditions.
2. Touch the probe of the stethoscope to the body of one
of the direct injectors (Figure 63). Have the assistant start
the engine while listening to the injector. The injector
should make an audible click noise during starting andor
while running. Note if the noise is present and the injector
position on the power head. Repeat this step for the re-
maining injectors. Stop the engine, then refer to the fol-
wing:
a. All injectors are clicking-The engine malfixnction
is due to an ignition misfire, fuel delivery problem
or mechanical failure in the power head. Check the
ignition and fuel system as described in this Supple-
ment. Perform a compression check as described in
Chapter Four.
scribed in this chapter. If the crankshaft position 2. Remove the four 10 amp fuses (2, 3, 6 and 8 Figure
sensor test correctly, proceed to Step 5. 45).
5. Check for faulty wiring if one or more of the injectors a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition
fail to operate and all other components test correctly. The (Figure 46). Replace blown or physically damaged
ECU or EMM is suspect if no fault is found with the wir- fuses.
ing. Have a marine dealership connect the engine to a b. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch
computer equipped with the OMC diagnostics software the positive test lead onto fuse terminal and the neg-
for the engine. Have the dealership actuate the individual ative test lead to the other terminal. The meter
injectors with the computer to test the ECU or EMM cir- should indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is
cuitry. Replace the ECU or EMM only if unable to actuate blown or has failed open and must be replaced. Re-
one or more of the injectors and all other components test peat this step for the remaining two fuses.
correctly. c. Carefully insert the fuses into the original openings
in the panel.
Checking the Voltage Supply to the Direct Injectors. 3. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale.
This procedure measures the voltage delivered to the in- the positive meter test lead against the metal terminal in
jectors while cranking and running the engine. Part of the the Jterminal on the 14-pin connector (Figure 45). Note
testing must be performed under actual running condi- the meter reading, while an assistant first cranks, then
tions. Safely performing on-water tests requires two peo- starts the engine. The meter should indicate 9.6 volts or
ple. One person to operate the boat, the other to monitor greater while cranking and 13.1 volts while running. Re-
the gauges or test instruments. All personnel must remain fer to the following:
seated inside the boat at all times. Do not lean over the a. Meter indicates 0 volt-Perform the Stop Circuit
transom while the boat is under way. Use extensions to al- Test as described in this Supplement.
low all gauges and meters to be located in the normal seat- b. Meter readings are less than the speczjication and
ing area. greater than 0 volt--Check the battery as described
in Chapter Seven. Test the starting system as de-
CA UTION scribed in Chapter Three.
Since many of the test procedures must be c. Meter readings are within the speczjications-Pro-
made with the wiring connected, it is often ceed to Step 4.
necessary to insert the test lead probe be- 4. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Touch
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal the positive test lead to the positive battery terminal.
(Figure 37). Use a small diameter test lead Touch the negative test lead to the negative battery termi-
probe with a sharpened tip and work care- nal. Record the battery voltage.
fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal 5. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
or connector: Do not puncture the wire Touch the positive test lead to one of the exposed termi-
jacket to contact the wiring. nals on the 10 amp fuse (2, Figure 45). Have an assistant
turn the ignition key switch to the ON position. The meter
1. Fully charge the battery, then clean and tighten the bat- should indicate approximately 1.0 volt less than the bat-
tery cable terminals before proceeding. tery voltage recorded in Step 4. Repeat this step using the
exposed terminals on each of the two 10 amp fuses (3 and
6 Figure 45) in the power distribution panel. Record the
meter reading, then refer to the following:
a. Voltage is less than the speczjication-Test the
charging system as described in this Supplement.
b. Voltage is within the speczjication-Proceed to Step
6A or 6B.
6A. 90-175 hp --Connect the meter test leads as de-
scribed in Step 5.
Note the voltage reading while an assistant first cranks,
then starts the engine. The meter should indicate more
voltage than the key on voltage (see Step 5) while crank-
ing the engine. With the engine running, the meter must
SUPPLEMENT
indicate 25.1 volts or greater for 1997-1999 models or 7B. 200 and 225 hp -Connect the negative test lead to an
39.1 volts or greater for 2000-2002 models. Repeat this engine ground. Probe the connector and touch the positive
step using the exposed terminals on each of the two 10 meter test lead to the metal terminal for the white or white
amp fuses (3 and 6 Figure 45) in the power distribution striped wire in the injector harness connector (Figure 64)
panel. Stop the engine and refer to the following: for one of the direct injectors. Note the voltage reading
a. Voltage is less than the specijication-Test the while an assistant first cranks, then starts the engine. The
charging system as described in this Supplement. meter should indicate approximately 20 volts while
b. Voltage is within the speczjication during all condi- cranking. Note and record the meter reading at idle speed
tion-Proceed to Step 7A or 7B. and at 1600 rpm. The meter should indicate 24.1 volts or
6B. 200 and 225 hp X o n n e c t the meter test leads as de- greater at idle speed and 39.1 volts or greater at 1600rpm.
scribed in Step 5. Repeat this step using the wire harness connector for each
direct injector.
Note the voltage reading while an assistant first cranks,
then starts the engine. The meter should indicate approxi- a. Voltage is within the speczfication-The voltage
mately 20 volts while crankmg. Note and record the meter supply to the injector is correct. A failure of one or
reading at idle speed and at 1600 rpm. The meter should more of the injectors to operate is the result of a
indicate 24.1 volts or greater at idle speed and 39.1 volts faulty injector, faulty wiring or a faulty ignition sys-
or greater at 1600 rpm. Repeat this step using the exposed tem component. Check the wiring and all ignition
terminals on each of the two 10 amp fuses (3 and 6 Figure system components. The ECU or EMM is suspect if
45) in the power distribution panel. Stop the engine and the injector, wiring and ignition system components
refer to the following: test correctly. See CheckingFor Direct Injector Op-
a. Voltage is less than the specijication-Test the eration in this section.
charging system as described in this chapter. Test b. No voltage on some injectors and correct voltage on
the Start Assist System as described in this section. others-Refer to Step 8.
b. Voltage is within the speczjication-Proceed to Step c. 0 volt on all injectors-The power distribution
7Aa or 7B. panel is shorted or failed open and must be replaced.
7A. 90-175 hp --Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC 8. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Connect
scale. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground. the negative test lead to an engine ground. Probe the con-
Touch the positive meter test lead against the metal termi- nector and touch the positive meter test lead to the metal
nal for the white or white striped wire in the injector har- terminal in the M terminal on the 14-pin connector (Fig-
ness connector (Figure 64) for one of the direct injectors. ure 45). Have the assistant start and operate the engine as
Note the voltage reading while an assistant first cranks, described in Step 7A or Step 7B. Repeat this step with the
then starts the engine. The meter should indicate more positive test lead touching the P then K terminals on the
voltage than the key on voltage (see Step 5) while crank- 14-pin connector. Record all voltage measurements. Stop
ing the engine and 25.1 volts or greater (1998 and 1999) or the engine, then refer to the following:
39.1 volts or greater (2000-2002) with the engine running.
Repeat this step using the wire harness connector for each a. Voltage is within the speczfication-Repair or re-
direct injector. Stop the engine, then refer to the follow- place the wiring between the direct injector and the
ing: power distribution panel.
a. Voltage is within the speczfication-The voltage b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Replace the power distribu-
supply to the injector is correct. One or more of the tion panel.
injectors has failed to operate. A faulty injector,
faulty wiring or a faulty ignition system component
has failed. Check the wiring and all ignition system Start Assist System Test (200 and 225 hp [1999])
components. The ECU or EMNI is suspect if the in-
jector, wiring and ignition system components test This procedure test the start assist transformer and re-
correctly. See CheckingFor Direct Injector Opera- lated wiring. Use a common multimeter for this proce-
tion in this section. dure. The engine may inadvertently start during this test.
b. 0 volt on some injectors, but correct voltage on oth- To prevent cooling system damage, prepare the engine for
ers-Refer to Step 8. operation using a test tank, flushltest device or operation
c. 0 volt on all injectors-The power distribution in a suitable body of water before beginning this proce-
panel is shorted or failed open and must be replaced. dure.
1. Locate the start assist transformer on the rear of the en- a. Meter indicates approximately 20 VDC while
gine control unit (ECU). Carefully unplug the four-pin cranking-The start assist circuit is worlung cor-
wire connector fiom the start assist transformer. rectly. If a no start or hard start occurs, check for a
2. Calibrate a multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Connect shorted or open condition along the whitelred wire
the negative test lead to an engine ground. Touch the posi- fiom the start assist transformer to the power distri-
tive test lead to the metal connector terminal that aligns bution panel.
with the red wire harness lead. Do not inadvertently touch b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Replace the start assist
the test lead to the transformer connector. Turn the igni- transformer as described in the Chapter Seven sec-
tion key switch to the ON position, then note the meter tion of this Supplement.
reading. Refer to the following:
a. Meter indicates battery voltage (approximately
Start Assist System Test
12.0 volts)-Proceed to Step 4.
(200 and 225 hp [2000-20021)
b. Meter indicates 0 volt-Proceed to Step 3.
3. Trace the red wire from the connector to the 20 amp This test checks the operation of the start assist system
fuse in the wire harness. Inspect and test the fuse as fol- circuits in the engine management module (EMM). Use a
lows: common multirneter for this procedure.
a. Carefully separate the fuse holder, then remove the Refer to Figure 45 to locate the components and test
fuse. lead connection points on the power distribution panel.
b. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition. The power distribution panel is located under the plastic
Replace the fuse if blown or physically damaged. cover on the upper starboard side of the power head.
Repeated failure of the fuse indicates a short along The engine may inadvertently start during this test. To
the red wire or a faulty start assist transformer. In- prevent cooling system damage, prepare the engine for
spect the wiring andlor replace the transformer if a operation using a test tank, flushltest device or operation
repeating failure of the fuse occurs. is a suitable body of water before beginning this proce-
c. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch dure.
the positive test lead to fuse terminal and the nega-
tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should CA UTION
indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown Since many of the test procedures must be
or has failed open and must be replaced. Repeat this made with the wiring connected, it is often
step for the remaining two fuses. necessary to insert the test lead probe be-
d. Carefully insert the fuses into the holder. Insert the tween the wire connector seal and the wire
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal
exposed end of the fuse into the holder, then push (Figure37). Use a small diameter test lead
the holder ends together. probe with tz sharpened tip and work care-
4. Calibrate the multimeter to the 40 VDC scale. Touch fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal
the positive test lead to the metal connector terminal that or connector: Do not puncture the wire
aligns with the pinklwhite wire harness wire. Do not inad- jacket to contact the wiring.
vertently touch the test lead to the transformer connector.
Note the meter reading while an assistant places the igni- 1. Locate the wire terminal J in the power distribution
tion key switch in the START position. If the engine starts, panel. Trace the black wire from this terminal to the 20
have the assistant immediately place the ignition key amp fuse holder. The wire color changes to purplelwhite
switch in the OFF position. Refer to the following: on the other terminal of the fuse holder. Inspect and test
a. Battery voltage while cranking-Proceed to Step 5. the fuse as follows:
b. 0 volt while cranking-Replace the starter solenoid. a. Carefully separate the fuse holder, then remove the
5. Plug the start assist wire harness into the engine wire fuse.
harness connector. Connect the negative test lead to an en- b. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition.
gine ground. Probe the connector and touch the positive Replace the fuse if blown or physically damaged.
meter test lead against the metal terminal for the whitelred Repeated failure of the fuse indicates a short along
wire in the connector. Note the meter reading while an as- the redlwhite wire or a short in the 40 volt circuit.
sistant places the ignition key switch in the START posi- Inspect the wiring if a repeating failure of the fuse
tion. If the engine starts, have the assistant immediately occurs.
place the ignition key switch in the OFF position. Refer to c. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch the
the following: positive test lead to the fuse terminal and the nega-
620 SUPPLEMENT
tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should lead of the switch connects via the harness to the ECU or
indicate continuity.If otherwise, the fuse is blown or EMM. The switch is located on the starboard cylinder
has failed open and must be replaced. Repeat this head and near the No. 1 cylinder spark plug opening.
step for the remaining two fuses. This test requires a container of non-flammable engine
d. Carefully insert the fuses into the holder. Insert the oil that can be heated, a multimeter and a liquid thermom-
exposed end of the fuse into the holder, then push eter. Do not use an open flame to heat the oil or the con-
the holder ends together. tainer.
2. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 or 40 VDC scale. 1. Remove the engine temperature switch as described in
Locate the EMM wire harness connector housing the the Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
pinklwhite wire. Do not unplug the connector. Connect 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Use a plas-
the negative test lead to an engine ground. Probe the con- tic locking clamp to attach the negative test lead to the
nector and touch the positive meter test lead against the metal body of the switch. Connect the positive test lead to
metal terminal for the pinklwhite wire in the connector. the tan or tadblue wire of the switch.
Note the meter reading while an assistant places the igni- 3. Fill the container with the oil, then suspend the tip of
tion key switch in the STARTposition. If the engine starts, the switch in the oil as shown in Figure 66. Do not allow
have the assistant immediately place the ignition key
switch in the OFF position. ~efer-to the following:
a. Meter indicates battery voltage while crank-
ing-The start assist system external of the EMM is
working correctly. If a no start or hard start occurs,
check for a shorted or open condition along the
whitelred wire ftom the EMM to the power distribu-
tion panel. The EMM is suspect if the wiring checks
correctly and the voltage supplied the injectors
while cranking is below the specification.Failure of
the EMM is extremely rare and its replacement sel-
dom corrects the malfunction. Replace the EMM
only if all other ignition, starting and charging sys-
tem components test correctly.
b. Meter indicates 0volt-Replace the starter solenoid
as described in Chapter Seven.
Engine Temperature Switch Test

CAUTION
Do not confise the engine temperature
switch with the engine temperature sensor
The engine temperature switch is located on
the starboard cylinder head. A single tan or
tan/blue wire connects the engine tempera-
ture switch to the engine wire harness. The
engine temperature sensor is located on the
port cylinder head. A pinWblack and black
wire connect the engine temperature sensor
to the engine wire harness.
The engine temperature switch (Pigure 65) is designed

to switch on at a predetermined temperatureand switch ofl
at a slightly lower temperature. This switch signalsthe en-
gine control unit (ECU) or engine management module
(EMM) that the engine is overheating. The body of the
switch must make good contact to ground and will not op-
erate properly if this connection is faulty. The tadblue
\\02 4 b b d b d
1. Liquid
2. thermometer
Overheat switch
3. Multimeter
the positive test lead to contact the oil or the container. engine temperature sensor is located on the
Place the thermometer in the container with the engine port cylinder head. A pinWblack and black
temperature switch. The meter should indicate no conti- wire connect the engine temperature sensor
nuity with the switch immersed in the cool oil. If other- to the engine wire harness. The overheat
switch is located on the starboard cylinder
wise, the switch is shorted and must be replaced. No
head. A single tan or taniblue wire connects
further testing is required. the engine temperature switch to the engine
4. Begin heating the oil. Gently stir the water while ob- wire harness.
serving the ohmmeter and the thermometer. Immediately
record the temperature at which the multimeter changes to The engine temperature sensor (Figure 67) is located
a continuity reading. Discontinue the test if the oil temper- on the port cylinder head and near the No. 4 or No. 6 cylin-
ature reaches 248" F (120" C). In this case the switch is der spark plug opening. The sensor resistance changes
defective and must be replaced. with the engine temperature to provide input to the engine
5. AUow the oil to cool and immediately record the temper- control unit (ECU) or engine management module
ature in which the meter reading switches to no continuity. (EMM). This test measures the resistance of the engine
6. Compare the switching temperatures with the specifi- temperature sensor at a specified temperature.
cations in Table 9. Replace the engine temperature switch Upon removal, place the sensor in a room at approxi-
if it does not operate as specified. mately 77" F (25" C) for an hour or more before measur-
7. Thoroughly clean then install the engine temperature ing the resistance. The resistance reading increase if the
switch as described in the Chapter Seven section of this sensor is warmer than the specification and decrease if the
Supplement. sensor is cooler than the specification. Use a digital
multimeter for this test.
Engine Temperature Sensor Test 1. Remove the engine temperature sensor as described in
the Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
CAUTION 2. Place the temperature sensor in a room at approxi-
Do not confuse the engine temperature sen- mately 77" F (25" C) for a hour or more before proceed-
sor with the engine temperature switch. The ing.
3A. 1997-1999 models4alibrate the multimeter to the
appropriate scale for measuring 900- 1100 ohms.
3B. 2000-2002 models--Calibrate the multimeter to the
appropriate scale for measuring 8000-12,000 ohms.
4. Connect the positive meter test lead to the pmk/black
sensor lead terminal. Connect the negative test lead to the
black sensor terminal. Note the meter reading, then refer
to the following:
-
a. 1997-1999 models-The meter should indicate
985-1015 ohms.
b. 2000-2002 models-The meter should indicate
9000- 11,000 ohms.
5. Replace the sensor if it fails to perform as specified.
6. Install the engine temperature sensor as described in
the Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
Air Temperature Sensor Test
The air temperature sensor (Figure 68) mounts onto the

lower starboard side of the silencer cover. The sensor re-
sistance changes with the temperature of the air entering
the intake manifold to provide input to the engine control
unit (ECU) or engine management module (EMM). This
test measures the resistance of the engine temperature
sensor at a specified temperature.
SUPPLEMENT
Upon removal, place the sensor in a room at approxi- green wire terminal. Observe the meter while moving the
mately 77" F (25" C) for an hour or more before measur- sensor arm slowly through the entire range of travel.
ing the resistance. The resistance reading increase if the Change the meter to a higher or lower scale as necessary.
sensor is warmer than the specification and decrease if the The resistance reading should change with corresponding
sensor is cooler than the specification. Use a digital lever movement. Replace the sensor if the resistance read-
multimeter for this test. ing is erratic or fails to change with corresponding lever
1. Remove the air temperature sensor as described in the movement.
Chapter Seven section of this Supplement. 5. Touch the positive meter test lead to the metal terminal
2A. 1997-1999 models~alibratethe multimeter to the in the sensor connector aligning with the black wire.
appropriate scale for measuring 900-1100 ohms. Touch the negative test lead to the terminal aligning with
2B. 2000-2002 models-Xalibrate the multimeter to the the green wire terminal. Observe the meter while moving
appropriate scale for measuring 8000-12,000 ohms. the sensor arm slowly through its entire range of travel.
3. Touch the test leads to the two metal terminal in the Change the meter to a higher or lower scale as necessary.
sensor harness connector. Polarity of the test leads does The resistance reading should change with corresponding
not affect the test results. Note the meter reading, then re- lever movement. Replace the sensor if the resistance read-
fer to the following: ing is erratic or fails to change with corresponding lever
a. 1997-1999 models-The meter should indicate movement.
990-1010 ohms. 6. Install the throttle position sensor as described in the
b. 2000-2002 models-The meter should indicate Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
9000-11,000 ohms.
5. Replace the sensor if it fails to perform as specified. Water in Fuel Sensor Test
6 . Install the air temperature sensor as described in the
Chapter Seven section of this Supplement. The water in fuel sensor mounts into the water separat-
ing fuel filter or filter housing (Figure 70). On earlier
Throttle Position Sensor Test
On 90-175 hp models, the throttle position sensor (Fig-

ure 69) mounts to the upper starboard side of the power
head. On 200 and 225 hp models, the sensor mounts on
the fi-ont of the power head and just below the flywheel.
The sensor arm contacts and moves along with the throttle
shaft or cam that operates the throttle shutters. This sensor
provides a varying voltage signal to the engine control
unit (ECU) or engine management module (EMM). The
ECU or EMM computes the throttle valve opening based
upon the sensor input. Use only a digital multimeter for
this test. The operating current £tom an analog multimeter
may damage the sensor.
1. Remove the throttle position sensor as described in the
Chapter Seven section of this Supplement.
2. Calibrate the multimeter to the appropriate scale for
measuring 5000 ohms.
3. Touch the positive meter test lead to the metal terminal
in the sensor connector aligning with the red wire. Touch
the negative test lead to the terminal aligning with the
black wire terminal. The resistance measurement must
exceed 3000 ohms. If otherwise, the sensor is faulty and
must be replaced.
4. Touch the positive meter test lead to the metal terminal
in the sensor connector aligning with the red wire. Touch
the negative test lead to the terminal aligning with the
models 150 and 175 hp models (1997 and 1998), the sen- Use a common multimeter for this test.
sor grounds through its threaded connection to the filter 1. Unplug the black/yellow and black switch wire har-
body. A pinklgreen and black wire connect the sensor to ness connector from the engine wire harness.
the engine control unit (ECU) or engine management 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale.
module (EMM) and the engine ground on 90- 115 hp 3. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL.
(1998-2002), 150 and 175hp (1999-2002) and all 200 and 4. Touch the positive test lead to the metal terminal in the
225 hp models. A switch in the sensor closes a circuit switch connector that aligns with the black/yellow wire.
when the sensor is subjected to water. This signals the Touch the negative test lead to the terminal that aligns
ECU or EMM to activate the appropriate warning to the with the black wire. The meter should indicate no continu-
operator. A multimeter and a container of water is re- ity. If the switch read continuity, the switch has failed or
quired for this test. the shift cable is out of adjustment and the switch is
1. Remove the water in fuel sensor as describe in the closed. Check the shift cable adjustment as described in
Chapter Seven section of this Supplement. Chapter Twelve. Replace the shift interrupt switch if cable
2. Dry the sensor with compressed air. adjustment corrects the problem.
3. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. 5. Note the meter reading while repeatedly moving the
4. Touch the meter test leads to the two metal terminal in pivoting bracket to activate and deactivate the switch. The
harness connector at the top of the sensor. The meter meter should indicate continuity with the switch activated
should indicate no continuity. If otherwise, the sensor is and no continuity with the switch deactivated.
shorted and must be replaced. 6. If the switch fails to perform as specified, replace it as
5. With the test leads connected as described in Step 4. described in the Chapter Seven section of this Supplement
Immerse the tip of the sensor into the water. The meter
should change to a continuity reading. If otherwise, the
sensor has failed open and must be replaced. OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM
6. Install the water in fuel sensor as describe in the Chap-
ter Seven section of &s Supplement. This section describes testing procedures for the oil de-
livery system used with the Ficht duect fuel injection sys-
tem. Test the oil delivery system if the dash mounted
Shift Interrupt Switch Test warning lights indicates an oil system failure or if lack of
sufficient lubrication is suspected of causing power head
The shift interrupt switch (Figure 71) is located on the damage.
lower starboard side of the power head. This switch is not
Although some of the components can be static tested,
used on 90-1 15 hp models. The switch mounts on a spring
reliable testing of the oil delivery system requires that the
loaded pivoting bracket that allows it to activate when
engine be connected to a computer equipped with the
shifting loads meet of exceed the spring pressure. The OMC diagnostics software. This software directs the en-
shift interrupt switch reacts to shifting load on the link-
gine control unit (ECU) or engine management module
ages and grounds the black/yellow wire leading into the
(EMM) to manually operate the electric oil pump and ver-
ECU or EMM. This signals the ECU or EMM that the op- ifies the operating voltages. Manual operation allows vi-
erator is shifting into Neutral. It is not necessary to re-
sual confiation of oil delivery to the engine. Have the
move the switch for testing. system tested at a OMC dealership if the testing per-
formed in this section does not identify a clear fault.
Low Oil Level Light Is On
If the low oil light (Figure 72) illuminates, stop the en-
gine as soon as possible and fill the on-board reservoir
with the recommended oil (Chapter Four). Start the en-
gine and monitor the warning light module.
The low oil light is now off-Resume normal operation.
To prevent the light from illuminating, check and correct
the oil level on a more frequent basis.
The low oil light is still on and the on-board tank is
filled-Replace the low oil float switch in the on-board
624 SUPPLEMENT
reservoir. The warning light module or related wiring is 2. Unthread the protective cap fkom the fitting. Wrap a
suspect if the Light remains on with the replacement shop towel around the fitting to capture spilled oil, then
switch. Check the wiring and repair as needed. Replace thread or clip the pressure gauge fully to the fitting. Se-
the warning light module if no fault is found with the wir- cure the gauge and hose to prevent excessive movement
ing. during engine operation.
3. Squeeze the oil hose primer bulb to purge air fi-om the
oil pump feed and return hoses.
No Oil Light Is On 4. Refer to the Iflition System section of this Supplement
to locate the crankshaft position sensor. Unplug the crank-
Stop the engine immediately if the no oil light (Figure shaft position sensor harness from the engine harness to
72) illuminates. Continued operation will likely result in prevent the engine fi-om starting. Route the disconnected
serious power head damage or complete power head fail- wiring to prevent interference with moving components.
ure. The light illuminates if the ECU or EMM detects low 5. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant operates
oil pressure fi-om the diaphragm oil pump or an electrical the electric starter motor. The pressure gauge should indi-
fault in the electric oil pump circuit. If the no oil light illu- cate 6-20 psi (41- 138 kPa) of oil pressure while cranking.
minates during operation, perform the following test: Do not operate the starter continuously for over 10 sec-
1. Check the diaphragm oil pump pressure. onds without a two minute cooling down period. Perform
2. Check the electric oil pump voltage supply. this step several times to purge residual air from the sys-
3. Test the electric oil pump resistance. tem. Air in the system will prevent the gauge fi-om regis-
4. Test the oil pressure switch. tering actual oil pump pressure. Refer to the following:
a. Oilpressure is within the specljication-Proceed to
NOTE Step 7.
To save time and reduce the chance of b. Oil pressure exceed the specijcation4heck for a
misdiagnosis, always check for service restrictedhose in the oil return hose. If no restriction
codes, as described in this chaptec before is found, replace the oil pressure regulator as de-
testing the oil delivery system. I f the service
code check reveals an oil delivery system scribed in the Chapter Eleven section of this supple-
componentfault, perform the testfor the in- ment.
dicated component or system. c. Oilpressure is below the speczjication.-Proceed to
Step 6.
6. Inspect the oil hoses, clamps, fittings, on-board tank
Diaphragm oilpump pressure test pickup and the oil primer bulb for deterioration or loose
(150-1 75 hp [I 997 and 19981) connections. If no faults are found with these components,
replace the oil pressure regulator as described in the Chap-
This test measures the pressure developed by the dia- ter Eleven section of this Supplement. Repeat this test. If
phragm oil pump. Use a 0-25 psi (0-172 kPa) fuel pressure low pressure condition persist, check the engine compres-
gauge equipped with a schraeder valve adapter for this
test. A schraeder valve resembles a tire stem valve. Pur-
chase the fuel pressure gauge from a tool supplier, an au-
tomotive or marine part store.
A portion of this test must be performed under actual
0 SYSTEMCHECKGAUGE
running conditions. Safely performing on-water tests re-
quires two people. One person to operate the boat, the
other to monitor the gauges or test instruments. All per-
sonnel must remain seated inside the boat at all times. Do
not lean over the transom while the boat is under way. Use
extensions to allow all gauges and meters to be located in
the normal seating area.
1. Locate the oil pressure test port for the diaphragm oil
pump. The fitting threads into the port side of the oil
pump. The oil pressure switch threads into the starboard
side of the oil pump. The oil pump is located on the front
of the engine and directlybelow the vapor separator tank.
sion as described in Chapter Four. Replace the diaphragm 10. Test the oil pump voltage supply and the oil pump re-
oil pump if low pressure is present, the engine compres- sistance as described in this section. If these components
sion is good and all other related components check or test test correctly, have a qualified technician connect the en-
correctly. gine to a computer equipped with the OMC diagnostics
7. Connect the crankshaft position sensor harness onto software and test the oil injection system operation.
the engine wire harness connection. Route the wiring to
prevent interference with moving components. Diaphragm oilpump pressure test
CA UTION (90-115 hp (1998-20021
Never operate the engine with the No Oil and 150-225 hp (1999-20021)
light illuminated. This light indicates a mal-
function of the oil delivery system. Oper- This test measures the fuel pressure delivered by the di-
ating the engine with a malfunction in the aphragm oil pump. Use a 0-25 psi (0-172 kPa) fuel pres-
oil delivery system will result in Iackofsu$i- sure gauge and suitable fittings for this test. Purchase the
cient lubrication and serious power head fuel pressure gauge and the required fittings from a tool
damage. supplier, an automotive or marine part store.
1. Locate the oil pressure switch on the side of the oil
8. Test the oil pressure while running the engine only if pump. Refer to the following to locate the oil pump:
the cranlung speed pressure is within the specification. a. 90-175 hp -The oil pump is located on the front of
Prepare the engine for operation under actual operating the engine and to the starboard side of the water sep-
conditions. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant arating fuel filter.
starts the engine. Note the pressure reading, then observe b. 200 and 225 hp -The oil pump is located on the
the pressure readings while the assistant gradually ad- starboard side of the power head.
vances the throttle until the engine reaches full speed. The 2. Remove the oil pressure switch as described in the
gauge must indicate 6-20 psi (41-138 kPa) of oil pressure Chapter Eleven section of this Supplement.
at all engine speeds. Immediately stop the engine if the no 3. Thread a suitable fitting into the switch opening in the
oil light illuminates or the oil pressure drops below the oil pump. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the fitting.
minimum specification. Refer to the following: 4. Squeeze the oil hose primer bulb to purge air from the
a. Oilpressure is within the speczj?cationat all engine oil pump feed and return hoses.
speedrr and the NO OIL light illuminates-Test the 5. Refer to the Ignition System section of this Supplement
electric oil pump as described in this section. If the to locate the crankshaft position sensor. Unplug the crank-
switch test correctly, proceed to Step 9. shaft position sensor harness from the engine harness to
b. Oil pressure is below the speczjkation only at prevent the engine from starting. Route the disconnected
higher speeds-Inspect the oil hoses, clamps, fit- wiring to prevent interference with moving components.
tings, on-board tank pickup and the oil primer bulb 6. Observe the pressure gauge while an assistant operates
for deterioration or loose connections. If no faults the electric starter motor. The pressure gauge must indi-
are found with these components, replace the pres- cate 6-20 psi (41-138 kPa) of oil pressure while cranking.
sure regulator as described in this section. Then, Do not operate the starter continuously for over 10 sec-
check the engine compression as described in Chap-
ter Four. Replace the diaphragm oil pump if low
onds without a two minute cooling down period. Perform - 1
this step several times to purge residual air from the sys-
pressure is present, the engine compression is good tem. Air in the system will prevent the gauge from regis-
and all other related components check or test cor- tering actual oil pump pressure. Reconnect the crankshaft
rectly. position sensor, then refer to the following:
c. Oil pressure exceeds the speciJication only at a. Oilpressure is within the speclJcation-Proceed to
higher enginespeedrrxheck for a restriction in the Step 8.
oil return hose. If no restriction is found, replace the b. Oil pressure exceed the speczjication--Check for a
oil pressure regulator as described in the Chapter restriction in the oil return hose. If no restriction is
Eleven section of this Supplement. found, replace the oil pressure regulator as de-
9. Stop the engine. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel scribed in the Chapter Eleven section of this Sup-
pressure test port to capture spilled oil. Unthread or unclip plement.
the pressure gauge. Carefully thread the protective cap c. Oilpressure is below the speczj?cation.-Proceed to
onto the pressure test port. Step 7.
SUPPLEMENT
7. Inspect the oil hoses, clamps, fittings, on-board tank b. Calibrate the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the
pickup and the oil primer bulb for deterioration or loose positive test lead to one fuse terminal and the nega-
connections. Replace the oil pressure regulator as de- tive test lead to the other terminal. The meter should
scribed in the Chapter Eleven section of this Supplement. indicate continuity. If otherwise, the fuse is blown
Repeat the test. If low oil pressure persist, check the en- or has failed open and must be replaced.
gine compression as described in Chapter Four. Replace c. Carefully insert the fuse into the original opening in
the diaphragm oil pump if low pressure is present, the en- the panel.
gine compression is good and all other related compo- 2. Calibrate the multimeter to the 20 VDC scale. Touch
nents check or test correctly. the positive test lead to the positive battery terminal and
8. The No Oil light is illuminating due to an electrical the negative test lead to the negative terminal. Record the
fault with the electric oil pump circuitry or a faulty oil battery voltage.
pressure switch. Test the oil pressure switch as described 3. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position.
in this section. 4. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
9. Remove the pressure gauge, then install the oil pres- Probe the positive test lead to contact the metal terminal
sure switch as described in the Chapter Eleven section of for the blue wire in the injector harness connector. The
this Supplement. voltage reading should read slightly below the reading in
10. Connect the crankshaft position sensor harness onto Step 2. Refer to the following:
the engine wire harness connection. Route the wiring to a. Meter indicates 0 volt-Proceed to Step 5.
prevent interference with moving components. b. Meter indicates the specified voltage-Proceed to
11. Test the oil pump voltage supply and the oil pump re- Step 6.
sistance as described in this section. If these components 5. Measure the electric oil pump resistance as described
test correctly, have a qualified technician connect the en- in this section. If the resistance is correct, perform the fol-
gine to a computer, equipped with the OMC diagnostics lowing:
software, and test the oil injection system operation. a. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Turn the
ignition key switch to the OFF position.
Electric oilpump voltage supply test b. Unplug the electric oil pump harness connector
from the engine wire harness.
This test verifies the voltage supply to the injector with c. Touch the negative meter test lead to the metal ter-
the ignition key ON and the engine not running. Refer to minal for the whiteblue wire in the harness connec-
Figure 45 to locate the components and test lead connector. Probe the connector and touch the positive
tion points on the power distribution panel. The power meter test lead against the metal terminal in the G
distributionpanel is located under the plastic cover on the terminal on the 14-pin connector (Figure 45) of the
upper starboard side of the power head. Use a digital power distribution panel.
multimeter for this procedure. d. Meter indicates no continuity-Repair or replace
the whiteblue wire connecting the oil pump to the
CAUTION power distribution panel.
Since many of the test procedures must be
made with the wiring connected, it is often e. Meter indicates continuity-Proceed to Step 6.
necessary to insert the test lead probe be- 6. If these components test correctly, and the No Oil light
tween the wire connector seal and the wire is illuminating, have a qualified technician test the oil in-
jacket to contact the metal wire terminal jection system operation.
(Figure 3 7). Use a small diameter test lead
fully to avoid damaging the wirejacket, seal Electric oilpump resistance test
or connectol: Do not puncture the wire
jacket to contact the wiring. This test measures the resistance of the coil winding in
the electric oil pump. Although an incorrect resistance
1. Remove the 10 amp fuse (1, Figure 45) from the reading indicates the pump is faulty and must be replaced,
power distribution panel. a correct resistance reading does not qualify the pump as
a. Visually inspect the fuses for a blown condition good. A mechanical failure with the pump may not affect
(Figure 46). Replace the fuse ifblown or physically the coil winding while preventing the oil pump from oper-
damaged. ating correctly. It is not necessary to remove the electric
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE JNFORMATION 627
distribution manifold assembly as described in the Chap-

DASH MOUNTED ter Eleven section of this Supplement.
WARNING MODULE 5. Plug the engine wire harness onto the electric oil
pump. Route the wiring to prevent interferencewith mov-
ing components.
Multimeter
Oilpressure switch test
This procedure tests the operation of the oil pressure

switch. Use a multimeter, a barb fitting and a
hand-operated pressure pump with gauge. Use a barb fit-
ting that will thread onto the threaded end of the switch
and connect to the pressure pump hose.
1. Remove the oil pressure switch as described in the
Chapter Eleven section of this Supplement.
2. Apply a light coating of thread sealing agent onto the
threads, then thread the barb fitting onto the switch. Con-
nect the pump hose onto the fitting (Figure 73).
3. Calibrate the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the
positive test lead to the threaded terminal of the switch.
Touch the negative test lead to the metal body of the
switch. Make sure the test lead contacts a clean unpainted
surface on the switch.
oil pump for this test. Use a digital multimeter for this pro- 4. Using the pump, apply 10 psi (69 kPa) of air pressure
cedure. to the switch, then note the meter reading. The meter
1. Unplug the engine wire harness from the electric oil should show no continuity. If otherwise, the switch has
Pump. failed open and must be replaced.
2. Calibrate the multimeter to the appropriate scale for 5. Monitor the multimeter while slowly relieving the air
measuring 0-2 ohms. pressure. Note the pressure when the meter changes to a
3. Touch the positive test lead to one metal terminal in the continuity reading. This should occur when the pressure
oil pump harness connector and the negative test lead to drops to 2.9-5.8 psi (20-40 Ha). If otherwise, the switch
another metal terminal. must be replaced.
4. The resistance reading should be within the specifica- 6. Install the oil pressure switch as described in the Chap-
tion in Table 10. If not, replace the electric oil pump and ter Eleven section of this Supplement.
, Table 1 FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

/ ~vmntom Cause Corrective action I
Engine will not start Contaminated fuel Inspect the fuel
Old or stale fuel Inspect the fuel
Blown fuse Check the fuses
Faulty fuel supply hose Test the fuel supply hose
Low diaphragm pump Test the diaphragm fuel
pressure Pump
Electric fuel pump not operating Check for electric fuel
pump operation
Low fuel pressure Test the fuel pressure
Faulty vapor separator tank Check for fuel in the vapor tank
Faulty start assist system* Test the start assist system
Faulty fuel pump relay Test the electric fuel
pump voltage
(continued)
628 SUPPLEMENT
Table 1 FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Symptom Cause Corrective action
Engine will not start (continued) Low voltage to direct injectors Test the voltage supply
to injectors
Engine stalls Contaminated fuel Inspect the fuel
Low diaphragm pump Test the diaphragm
pressure fuel pump
Flooding vapor separator tank Check for a flooding vapor
separator tank
Faulty fuel pump relay Test the electric fuel pump
voltage
Low voltage to direct injectors Test the voltage supply
to injectors
Faulty fuel pressure regulator Replace the fuel
pressure regulator
Poor performance Contaminated fuel Inspect the fuel
Low diaphragm pump Test the diaphragm
pressure fuel pump
Low voltage to direct injectors Test the voltage supply
to injectors
Faulty fuel pressure regulator Replace the fuel pressure
regulator
Faulty direct injector(s) Check for direct injector
operation
1 This system is not used on all models I
Table 2 ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Symptom
-
Cause Corrective action I
Engine will not start Low battery voltage Test the battery
(Chapter Seven)
Faulty crankshaft position Test the crankshaft position
sensor sensor
Misadjusted crankshaft Adjust the crankshaft position
position sensor sensor
Blown fuse@) lnspect the fuses
Faulty power relay Test the power relay
Faulty onlstop relay Test the onlstop relay
Low voltage to direct injectors Test voltage to direct injectors
Faulty start assist system Test the start assist system
Faulty stop circuit Test the stop circuit
Faulty capacitor Test the capacitor
Engine stalls Low battery voltage Test the battery
(Chapter Seven)
sensor sensor
Misadjusted crankshaft position Adjust the crankshaft position
sensor sensor
(continued)
Table 2 ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Engine stalls (continued) Faulty stop circuit Test the stop circuit
Faulty engine temperature Test the engine temperature
sensor sensor
Faulty air temperature sensor Test the air temperature sensor
Faulty throttle position sensor Test the throttle position
sensor
Faulty shift interrupt switch Test the shift interrupt switch
Engine runs rough Faulty power relay Test the power relay
Faulty onlstop relay Test the stop circuit
Faulty stop circuit Test the onlstop relay
Fautty capacitor Test the capacitor
Poor performance Faulty crankshaft position sensor Test the crankshaft position
sensor
Misadjusted crankshaft position Adjust the crankshaft position
sensor sensor
Faulty throttle position sensor Test the throttle position
sensor
Engine overheating Check for overheating
Low oil pressure Test the oil pressure
Overheating ECU or EMM Check for overheating
High charging system voltage Test the charging system
Open direct injector circuit Test voltage to direct injectors
Faulty stop circuit Test the stop circuit
1 Engine will not stop Faulty stop circuit Test the stop circuit
Faulty ignition key switch Test the ignition key switch
Faulty odstop relay Test the onlstop relay
Table 3 IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

SYrnptom Cause Corrective action
Engine will not start Low battery voltage Test the battery
(Chapter Seven)
Blown fuse(s) Inspect the fuses
Fouled spark plugs Replace the spark plugs
sensor sensor
Misadjustedcrankshaft position Adjust the crankshaft position
sensor sensor
Faulty ignition stop circuit Test the stop circuit
Low ignition voltage supply Test the ignition voltage supply
Low primary coil voltage Test the coil primary
voltage supply
Faulty ignition module* Test the coil primary voltage
supply
Faulty ECU or EMM Test the coil primary voltage
Engine stalls Fouled spark plugs Replace the spark plugs
Faulty crankshaft position sensor Test the crankshaft position
sensor
(continued)
SUPPLEMENT
Table 3 IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Engine stalls (continued) Misadjusted crankshaft positions ~ d j u sthe

t crankshaft position
sensor sensor
supply
Faulty ECU or EMM Test the coil primary voltage
Engine runs rough Fouled spark plugs Replace the spark plugs
Faulty crankshaft position sensor Test the crankshaft position
sensor
Misadjusted crankshaft positions Adjust the crankshaft position
sensor sensor
No ignition on one or more cylinders Check the spark
Faulty ignition coil Test the coil resistance
Faulty spark plug lead Test the spark plug lead
supply
Poor performance Fouled spark plugs Replace the spark plugs
Faulty ignition coil Test the coil resistance
Faulty spark plug lead Test the spark plug lead
No ignition on one or more cylinders Check the spark
Faultv ca~acitor Test the ca~acitor
I This component i i o t used on all models
Table 4 CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Engine will not start Faulty start assist system* Test the start assist circuit
Faulty stator Test the stator
Faulty Suppressor Test the Suppressor
Faulty filter module Test the filter module
Faulty rectifierlregulator* Test the charging system
Faulty EMM* Test the charging system
Battery is not charging Low voltage output Test the charging system
Faulty flywheel Inspect the flywheel magnets
Excessive load Test the charging system
Engine stalls Low voltage output Test the charging system
Faulty suppressor Test the suppressor
Poor performance Faulty stator Test the stator
(continued)
Table 4 CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Poor performance (continued) Faulty suppressor Test the suppressor
Low voltage output Test the charging system
I This component or system is not used on all models

I
Table 5 SERVICE CODE IDENTIFICATION

I Code Fault Gauge light illuminated Other action
Level one codes
11 System operating properly None None
12 Throttle position Check engine None
sensor malfunction
Low throttle position Check engine None
sensor reading
High throttle position Check engine None
sensor reading
Computer memory fault Check engine None
Crankshaft position Check engine None
sensor fault
Low alternator output Check engine None
voltage
High alternator output Check engine Power reduction
voltage
Engine temperature Water temp Power reduction
switch activated
Engine temperature sensor Check engine None
malfunction
Low water temperature Check engine None
sensor reading
High water temperature Check engine Power reduction
sensor reading
34 Open oil injector circuit No oil light Power reduction
35 Low oil pressure indicated No oil light Power reduction
37 Water detected in the fuel Check engine None
Level two codes
26 Low battery voltage Check engine None
27 High battery voltage Check engine None
41 Engine temperature circuit Check engine None
malfunction
Low engine temperature Check engine None
circuit reading
High engine temperature Water temp Power reduction
circuit reading
Air pressure sensor Check engine None
circuit malfunction
Low air pressure sensor Check engine None
reading
High air pressure sensor Check engine None
reading
Fault in No. 1 direct None None
injector circuit
(continued)
632 SUPPLEMENT
Table 5 SERVICE CODE IDENTIFICATION (continued)

Code Fault Gauge light illuminated Other action
Level two codes
(continued)
52 Fault in No. 2 direct None None
injector circuit
53 Fault in No. 3 direct None None
injector circuit
54 Fault in No. 4 direct injector None None
circuit
circuit
circuit
Level three codes
28 Shift switch circuit Check engine None
malfunction
47 Air temperature sensor Check engine None
malfunction
48 Low air temperature Check engine None
sensor reading
49 High air temperature Check engine None
sensor reading
81 Open No. 1 ignition coil Check engine None
primary
primary
primary
primar
primary
primary
Table 6 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SPECIFICATIONS

Model =pecification
'I I
Air gap
90-175 hp (1997-1999) 0.045-0.055 in. (1.I-1.4 mm)
90-175 hp (2000-2002) 0.035-0.055 in. (0.9-1.4 mm)
200 and 225 hp 0.040-0.080 in. (1.O-2.0 mm)
Resistance
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 800-1000 ohms *
90and115hp 350-450 ohms
150 and 175 hp (1999) 350-450 ohms*
200and225hp 1000-1200 ohms*
* Measurethe resistanceat a normal room temperature of 68. F (20' C). Resistance measurementswill increase at higher tem-
peratures and decrease at lower temperatures.
Table 7 STATOR RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS

I Test lead connection points Specification (ohm) I
7
pppppp
1997-1999 models
12 volt output winding (longer wires)
Yellow and yellowlblue
Yellow and yellowlgray
Yellowlblue and yellowlgray 0.1-0.3"
20 or 40 volt output winding (shorter wires)
Yellow and yellowlblue
Yellow and yellowlgray
Yellowlblue and yellowlgray
2000-2002 models
12 volt output winding (twelve-pin connector)
Yellowlblack (pin No. 22) and yellowlpurple (pin No. 21)
Yellow (pin No. 20) and yellowlblue (pin No. 19)
Yellowlgray (pin No. 18) and yellowlgray (pin No. 17)
Yellowl green @in No. 11) and yellowlgray pin (No. 12)
Yellowhlue (pin No. 13) and yellow (pin No. 14)
Yellowlpurple (pin No. 15) and yellowhlack (pin No. 16)
40 volt output winding (eight-pin wnnector)
Browdyellow (pin No. 5) and brown/black (pin No. 9) 0.1 &0.28*
Brownlgreen (pin No. 4) and brownlorange (pin No. 8) 0.184.28*
Brown (pin No. 3) and browdwhite (pin No. 7) 0.1 84.28"
*Measure the resistance at a normal room temperature of 68" F (20" C). Resistancemeasurements will increase at higher tem-
peratures and decrease at lower temperatures.
I
Table 8 STATOR VOLTAGE OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS

Test lead connection points Specification (VAC) I
12 volt output winding (twelve-pin wnnector)
Yellowlblack (pin No. 22) and yellowlpurple (pin No. 21)
Yellow (pin No. 20) and yellowlblue (pin No. 19)
Yellowlgray (pin No. 18) and yellowlgray (pin No. 17)
Yellow1green (pin No. 11) and yellowlgray pin (No. 12)
Yellowlblue (pin No. 13) and yellow (pin No. 14)
Yellowlpurple (pin No. 15) and yellowlblack (pin No. 16)
40 volt output winding (eight-pin connector).
Browdyellow (pin No. 5) and brownlblack(pin No. 9)
Brownlgreen (pin No. 4) and brownlorange (pin No. 8)
Brown (pin No. 3) and brownlwhite (pin No. 7)
634 SUPPLEMENT
Table 9 ENGINE TEMPERATURE SWITCH SPECIFICATION

Model Specification 1
Switching on temperature
Switching off temperature
150-175 hp (1997-1999)
150-175 hp (2000-2002)
200 and 225 hp (1999)
200 and 225 hp (2000-2002)
Table 10 ELECTRIC OIL PUMP RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS

Model Specification (ohm)
90-175 hp (1997-1999) 0.85-0.95

200 and 225 hp (1999) 1.00-1.10
90-225 hp (2000-2002) 0.90-1.I 0
-
SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER FOUR
This section describes the unique lubrication, mainte- maintenance and tune-up procedures, refer to the instruc-
nance and tune-up procedures for Evinrude/Johnson out- tions in Chapter Four.
boards equipped with Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI). Except
for the fuel/oil requirements, water separating he1 filter Fuel Requirements
replacement and spark plug installation, the maintenance
procedures are virtually identical to those used on the car- The recommended fuel for all Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI)
buretor equipped models of the same horsepower rating. models is regular leaded, regular unleaded or unleaded
Refer to this chapter for fuel/oil requirements and spark premium with a minimum pump octane rating or 87
plug installation procedures. For all other lubrication. anti-knock index (AKI). For additional protection against
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INF'ORMATION 635
damaging spark knock, use a fuel with a pump octane rat- contains no more than 10% ethanol or 5% methanol with
ing of 89 or higher. This is especially important if the en- 5% colsolvent. Be aware that the use of alcohol extended
gine is subjected to the continuous heavy loads associated fuel can result in the following conditions:
with commercial boat applications. Premium grade fuel 1. Decreased performance.
has a pump octane rating of 91-93 AKI and provides even 2. The formation of water in the fuel.
more resistance to spark knock. Also, premium grade fuel 3. Increased deterioration of the fuel hoses and other fuel
typically contains a higher concentration of detergent and system components.
dispersant additives that reduce carbon deposits on the 4. Corrosion of metal fuel system components.
pistons and rings. Consider using premium grade fuel if Avoid using fuel containing alcohol extenders. If it
the engine has suffered damage from spark knock or ex- must be used, inspect the fuel system for water and deteri-
cessive carbon deposits. orated components on a more frequent basis. Some fuels
The fuel available in many areas contain alcohol based contain increased amounts of cosolvents or corrosion in-
extenders. The most common extenders include ethanol hibiting additives to help reduce the negative impact from
and methanol. The use of these additives is necessary in the extenders. The use of increased additives does not al-
these areas to help reduce the exhaust emissions associ- low the use of a higher concentration of the extenders nor
ated with internal combustion engines. While not specifi- does it eliminate the need for more frequent maintenance
cally recommended, alcohol extended fuel can be used and inspection of the fuel system components.
provided it meets the minimum pump octane rating and
Oil Requirements
The manufacture recommends using Evinrude or John-

son TC-W3 Outboard Lubricant or Ram Ficht Fuel Injec-
tion (FFI) oil. These oils are designed and formulated to
provide the optimum performance and durability for the
engine. The manufacturer highly recommends using Ram
Ficht Fuel Injection oil in all FFI models. This oil contains
special additives that reduce the formation of carbon de-
posits on the direct injectors. Other brands of oil can be
used provided they meet the NMMA TC-W3 rating (Fig-
ure 74).
Spark Plug Installation
m
Install new spark plugs once a year or at each 100 hours
of usage, whichever comes first. Change the spark plugs
injector
at more frequent intervals if using other than the recom-
mended oil or if the engine is used for commercial duty.
A special procedure must be used when installing spark
Firing
tip plugs in Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) models. Proper instal-
lation places open end of the firing tip in the path of the
Spark plug
fuel spraying from the direct injector (Figure 75). Im-
proper spark plug installation may result in the ground
electrode blocking and disrupting the fuel flowing toward
the firing tip changing the combustion dynamics and
causing rough operation, poor performance and increased
exhaust emissions. The spark plugs are indexed during in-
stallationto ensure correct firing tip orientation relative to
Ground the direct injector.
electrode
All FFI models use special suppression spark plugs.
The use of non-suppression spark plugs may cause serious
ignition system malfunction. Suppression spark plugs are
636 SUPPLEMENT
fairly unique to direct injected outboard engines and are c. Marking is in area C-The spark plug cannot be
generally not available from automotive part stores. Pur- used in this spark plug opening, because it will not
chase the spark plug from a Evinrude or Johnson dealer- index correctly. Try a different spark plug and use
ship. Always refer to the emissions label (Figure 76) to this spark plug on the opposite cylinder bank.
determine the brand and part number of the spark plug and 5. Repeat these steps for the remaining spark plugs.
the spark plug gap. The manufacture may change the
spark plug type or gap during production and-these
changes may not match the specifications available at the
time of printing. If the label is missing or illegible, refer to
the specifications in Table 11.
Install and index the spark plugs as follows:
1. Adjust the spark plug gap to the specificationlisted on
the emissions decal. Refer to the Spark Plug Gapping in
Chapter Four.
2. Place a marking on the side of the spark plug shaft that
aligns with the open end of the ground electrode as shown
in Figure 77.
3. Thread the spark plug into the opening. Using an accu-
rate torque wrench, tighten the spark plug to 15.0 f€.lb.(20
N-m.).
4. Note the orientation of the spark plug marking relative
the center line of the direct injector body (Figure 78). Hark this side
Then, refer to the following: Open end
a. Marking is in area A-Tighten the spark plug with a
torque wrench until either the marking aligns with
the center line of the direct injector or the torque
wrench reaches 22 ft. lb. (30 N.m.).
b. Marking is in area B-No further tightening is re-
quired.
Area B Area A
Area B
0 k -
Direct injector I
, I
Port side Starboard side 1
1997-2002 PICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INF'ORMATION 637
Water Separating Fuel Filter Removaylnstallation filter into a container suitable for holding fuel. Clean up
any spilled fuel.
All Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) models use a spin-on 5. 150and 175hp models (1997 and 1998)-Remove the
water separating fuel filter (Figure 56). This filter has a water in fuel sensor as described in the Chapter Seven sec-
13 micron rating and is designed to separate small tion of this Supplement.
amounts of water fiom the fuel as it passes through the 6. Apply a coating or two-cycle outboard oil to the seal-
filter element. Replace this filter once a year and use ing ring portion of the replacement filter.
only the recommended OMC part. Other manufactures 7. 150 and 175 hp models (1997 and 1998)-Install the
filters may not meet the filter requirement or may not ac- water in fuel sensor as described in the Chapter Seven sec-
cept the water in fuel sensor. Use a common oil filter tion of this Supplement.
wrench to loosen and tighten the filter. Instructions fol- 8. Thread the replacement filter onto the filter housing.
low: On models with the water in fuel sensor in the filter hous-
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental ing, guide the sensor into the filter opening while install-
starting. ing the filter. Hand-tighten the filter, then tighten an
2. Place a shop towel under the filter to capture spilled additional 213 to 314 turn with the oil filter wrench. Do not
fuel. over-tighten the filter.
3. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Disconnect the 9. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)--Connect the wire
wire fiom the water in fuel sensor terminal. onto the water in fuel sensor terminal.
4. Use an oil filter wrench to remove the filter. Empty the 10. Connect the battery cables.
Table 11 SPARK PLUG RECOMMENDATIONS

odd Spa* plug type Spa* plug gap
7
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) OMC part No. 439831 0.030 in. (0.8 mm)
90 and 115 hp (1998-1999) NGK PZFRSF 0.030 in. (0.8 mm)
150 and 175 hp (1999) NGK PZFR5F 0.030 in. (0.8 mm)
200 and 225 hp (1999) Champion QC12PEP 0.030 in. (0.8 mm)
90-225 hp (2000.2002)
'Refer to the emissions decal for the spark plug part No. and gap specificationsfor this model.
SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER FIVE
SYNCHRONIZATION, LINKAGE AND ADJUSTMENT
This section describes throttle synchronization and equipped models of the same horsepower. Refer to Chap-
linkage adjustment for all Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) mod- ter Twelve for shift cable adjustment procedures.
els. The engine control unit (ECU) or engine management
module (EMM) controls the ignition timing, idle speed Throttle Synchronization and Adjustment
and fuel delivery eliminatingthe need for adjustment. The (90-175 hp)
throttle linkage arrangement and adjustment procedures
will vary by model. Throttle and shift cable adjustment 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
procedures are virtually identical to those for carburetor starting.
638 SUPPLEMENT
2. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle arm at- 7. Apply light pressure to hold the throttle linkage in the
taching point. closed throttle position while securely tightening the shaft
3. Remove the silencer cover to allow viewing of the connector screws (2 and 3, Figure 82).
throttle plates (Figure 79). Elastic straps secure the si- 8. Move the throttle linkage (4, Figure 82) to check for
lencer cover to the power head. Unplug the air tempera- fkee throttle movement of the throttle levers (1 and 6, Fig-
ture sensor to prevent damage to the sensor wiring. ure 82) on the throttle shafts. Repeat Steps 4-7 if any
4. Insert a piece of paper between the throttle cam (A, binding is noted.
Figure 80) and throttle roller (B). The roller and cam
should not touch and the paper should pass between the
roller and cam with a very slight drag. Move the throttle
cam and roller to achieve proper clearance. Leave the pa-
per in position during the linkage adjustments.
5. Loosen the adjusting screw (Figure 81) on the port
side throttle body assembly.
6. Peer into the throttle openings to verify that all throttle
plates (Figure 79) are closed. Apply light pressure to
close them as necessary.
7. Apply light pressure to hold the throttle llnkage in the
closed throttle position while securely tightening the ad-
justing screw (Figure 81).
8. Reconnect the throttle cable to the throttle arm. Verify
proper clearance between the throttle cam and roller as de-
scribed in Step 4. Remove and readjust the cable as neces-
sary to achieve the proper clearance.
- -
9. Remove the slip of paper from the cam and roller. Plug
the engine harness onto the air temperature sensor. Secure
the wiring to prevent interference with moving compo-
nents. Install the silencer cover and secure with the elastic
straps.
10. Connect the battery cables.
Throttle Synchronization and Adjustment

(200 and 225 hp)

starting.
2. Remove the silencer cover to allow viewing of the
throttle plates (Figure 79). Two plastic thumb screws se-
cure the silencer cover onto the throttle body. Unplug the
air temperature sensor to prevent damage to the sensor
wiring.
3. Disconnect the throttle cable fkom the throttle cable at-
taching point (13, Figure 82).
4. Loosen the screws (5 and 7, Figure 82) on the port and
starboard throttle levers.
5. Loosen the bottom screw on the port side throttle shaft
connector (3, Figure 82). Loosen the top screw on the
starboard side throttle shaft connector (2, Figure 82).
6. Peer into the throttle openings to verify that all throttle
plates are closed. Apply light pressure to close them if
necessary.
9. Move the throttle linkage (10, Figure 82) rearward un- while securely tightening the starboard throttle lever
til the idle stop screw (9) contacts the stop on the cylinder screw (7, Figure 82).
block. 12. Again verify that all throttle plates are closed, then
10. Hold the linkage (10, Figure 82) rearward and adjust hold the throttle cam and roller in the position as de-
the screw until the throttle roller aligns with the throttle scribed in Step 10 while securely tightening the port side
cam (8) as shown in Figure 83. throttle lever screw (5, Figure 82).
11. Verify that all throttle plates are closed. Hold the 13. Move the throttle roller (Figure 83) while inspect-
throttle cam and roller in the position described in Step 10 ing the throttle plates (Figure 79). All throttle plates
should open and close simultaneously. If not, repeat
Steps 3-12.
14. Move the throttle arm (12, Figure 82) rearward until
the full throttle stop screw (14) contacts the stop on the
cylinder block. Hold the arm against the stop while in-
specting the throttle plates. If the plates do not reach the
full open position just as the stop screw contacts the stop
on the cylinder block, adjust the stop screw to achieve the
described condition.
15. Move the throttle arm forward until the idle stop
screw (9, Figure 82) contacts the stop on the cylinder
block. Loosen the locknut, then rotate the stop screw 1-112
turns counterclockwise. Securely tighten the locknut.
16. Inspect the throttle cam and roller. Proper adjustment
will result in a slight gap between the throttle roller and
the throttle cam (Figure 83) and allow fkee rotation of the
throttle roller. Readjust the idle stop screw as necessary.
17. Attach the throttle cable to the attachingpoint. Adjust
the cable trunion to achieve a very light preload against
the idle stop with the remote control in the neutral idle po-
sition.
18. Plug the air temperature sensor to the engine wire
harness connection. Route the wiring to prevent interfer-
ence with moving components.
19. Install the silencer cover and secure with the two
plastic thumb screws.
20. Connect the battery cables. 1
1. Starboard throttle shaft lever
2. Starboard throttle shaft connector
screw (upper)
3. Port throttle shaft connector
screw (lower)
4. Throttle linkage
5. Port throttle lever screw
6. Port throttle lever
7. Starboard throttle lever screw
8. Throttle cam
9. ldle stop screw
10. Throttle linkage
11. ldle stop lever
12. Throttle arm
13. Throttle cable attaching point Throttle cam
14. Full throttle stop screw
15. Shift cable attaching point
Throttle roller
640 SUPPLEMENT
SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER SIX
FUEL SYSTEM
This section describes replacement and repair instruc- 3. Carefully pull the fuel pump (11, Figure 84) away
tions for the fuel system components. The serviceability from the mounting surface. Clean any corrosion or con-
of the fuel system components will vary by model and taminants from the mounting surfaces.
model year. Refer to the following: 4. Fit the pump assembly onto the vapor separator tank
1. 150 and 175 hp (1997-1998FThe diaphragm fuel mounting surface. Align the openings, then install the two
pump is serviceable. The vapor separator tank compo- mounting screws (12, Figure 84). Tighten the five screws
nents, electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are to 25-30 in.-lb. (2.8-3.4 N-m.) in the sequence shown in
replaceable. The direct injectors can be disassembled, Figure 85.
cleaned and inspected. The injector repair kit includes 5. Install the vapor separator tank as described in this sec-
new O-rings, inlet check valve and spring. Replace the in- tion.
jector if other injector components are faulty.
2.90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp
(1999-2002)--On 90-175 hp, the diaphragm fuel pump is Diaphragm Fuel Pump Replacement
serviceable. The repair kit for the diaphragm fuel pump (90-115 hp [1998-20021
includes new gaskets, diaphragm and check valves. On and 150-175 hp [1999-20021)
200 and 225 hp, the diaphragm fuel pump is
non-serviceable. The pump must be replaced if faulty is Refer to Figure 86 for this procedure.
suspected of causing an engine malfunction. 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
On 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp starting.
(1999-2002) models, the vapor separator tank, electric 2. Remove the silencer cover for better access to the
fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are integrated into a pump. Unplug the air temperature sensor to prevent dam-
single assembly that is non-serviceable. The assembly age to the sensor wiring. Elastic straps secure the silencer
must be replaced if any of these components should fail. cover to the power head.
3. Disconnect the hose (14, Figure 86) from the fuel in-
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working with the let fitting on the diaphragm pump. Clean up any spilled
fuel system. Fuel can unexpectedly spray fuel.
out under high pressure and create a haz- 4. Remove the clamps, then disconnect the two crankcase
ardous condition. Always use required pulse hoses (24 and 3 1, Figure 86) from the diaphragm
safety gear Never smoke orperform any test fuel pump fittings. Note if any fuel is present in the pulse
around an openjlame or other source of ig- hoses. Fuel in the hoses indicates possible failure of the
nition. Fuel and/or vapor can ignite or ex- fuel pump diaphragm. If fuel is found in the hoses, disas-
plode, resulting in injury or death. semble and inspect the diaphragm fuel pump as described
in this section.
Diaphragm Fuel Pump Replacement 5. Unplug the engine harness connector from the water in
(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981) fuel sensor (3, Figure 86).
6. Push the locking tab in, then unplug the quick connec-
The fuel pump is mounted onto the port side of the tank. tor and hose (32, Figure 86) from the fitting on the top of
Refer to Figure 84 for this procedure. the water separating fuel filter housing. Clean up any
1. Remove the vapor separator tank assembly as de- spilled fuel.
scribed in this section. 7. Disconnect the oil inlet hose (19, Figure 86) from the
2. Remove the two mounting screws (12, Figure 84). bottom of the fuel pump body. The oil inlet hose is located
VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK, WATER SEPARATING

FUEL FILTER AND FUEL PUMPS
( I 50 AND 175 HPS MODELS 11997 AND 19981)
1. Vent hose (to intake

manifold fitting)
2. Plastic locking
clamp
3. Hose (fuel return)
4. Plastic locking clarnp
5. Float pin
6. Gasket
7. Hose (fuel pump outlet)
8. Hose (pulse hose)
9. Plastic locking
clamp 23. Clamp 37. Mouting bracket 52. Seating washer
10. Clamp 24. Hose (water inlet) 38. Bolt 53. Top cover
11. Diaphragm type fuel 25. Plastic locking 39. O-ring 54. Screw
Pump clamp 40. Mounting stud 55. Water in fuel
12. Mounting screw (2) 26. Hose (water outlet 41. Grommet sensor
13. Plastic locking to ECU) 42. E-clip 56. Water separating
clamp 27. O-rings 43. Retaining ring fuel filter
14. Hose (fuel inlet) 28. Fitting 44. Electric fuel pump 57. Washer
15. Plastic locking clamp 29. O-rings 45. O-ring 58. Screw
16. Float 30 Insulator 46. Fitting (fuel pump 59. Clamp
17. Vapor separator tank 31. Fitting (fuel pump outlet) 60. Fuel inlet hose
housing inlet) 47. Clamp 61. Fuel outlet hose
18. O-ring 32. O-ring 48. Hose (fuel pump 62. Clamp
19. Drain screw 33. Screw outlet) 63. Fitting
20. Gasket 34. Clamp plate 49. Pull-off clip 64. Filter housing
21. Cover 35. Mounting stud 50. Inlet needle 65. Mounting bracket
22. Screw 36. O-ring 51. Seat
SUPPLEMENT
closest to the water separating fuel filter bracket. Clean up 25. Check for fuel leakage upon start up. If leakage oc-
any spilled oil. curs, immediately stop the engine. Correct the cause of
8. Remove the three bolts, washers, grommets and leakage before operating the engine.
sleeves (9-1 1, Figure 86) that secure the water separating
fuel filter housing to the intake manifold.
Diaphragm Fuel Pump Replacement
9. Lift the water separating fuel filter and fuel pump as-
(200 and 225 hp)
sembly from the power head.
10. Remove the five mounting screws (28, Figure 86). Three screws secure the diaphragm fuel pump to the
Pull the fuel pump from the filter housing. mounting bracket. Refer to Figure 87 for this procedure.
11. Remove the mounting gasket (33, Figure 86) &om 1. Disconnect the battery cable to prevent accidental
the pump body or filter housing. Discard the gasket. starting.
12. Clean any corrosion or contaminants from the mount- 2. Remove the starter motor as described in Chapter
ing surfaces. Seven.
13. Fit a new gasket (33, Figure 86) onto the mounting 3. Remove the vapor separator tank as described in this
surface of the pump body. Make sure to use the gasket section.
with the hole that aligns with the opening in the mounting 4. Remove the silencer cover. Two plastic thumb screws
surface. secure the cover to the intake manifold. Unplug the engine
14. Keep the outer cover in contact with the pump body harness connector from the air temperature sensor to pre-
while installing the pump to the filter housing. vent damage to the wiring.
15. Fit the pump assembly to the vapor separator tank 5. Unplug the engine harness connector from the water in
mounting surface. Align the openings, then install the five fuel sensor (3, Figure 87).
mounting screws. Tighten the five screws to 40-50 in.-lb. 6. Loosen the clamp, then disconnect the fuel Inlet hose
(4.5-5.6 N.m) in the sequence shown in Figure 85. from the fitting (7, Figure 87) on the side of the filter
16. Install the water separating fuel filter housing to the housing. Promptly clean up any spilled fuel.
intake manifold. Install the three washers, sleeves and 7. Remove the two screws (9, Figure 87), then pull the
grommets into the mount openings. filter housing assembly from the power head. Do not lose
17. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock onto the the spacers (1 1, Figure 87).
threads, then thread the three mounting screws through 8. Loosen the clamps, then pull the fuel inlet (30, Figure
the mounts and into the intake manifold. Install the 87) and outlet hose (19) from the fuel pump fittings. The
ground wire terminal below the mounting screw. Tighten
the filter housing mounting screws to 60-80 in.-lb.
(6.8-9.0 N-m).
18. Connect the oil hose to the oil Inlet fitting. The oil in-
let fitting is closest to the filter housing. Secure the hose
@ TlGHTENlNG SEQUENCE
DIAPHRAM TYPE
with the clamp. PUMP COVER
19. Push the tab in, then push the quick connector into the
fitting on the top of the water separating fuel filter hous-
ing. Release the locking tab, then tug on the connector to
verify a secure connection. 5
20. Attach the engine harness connector to the water in
fuel sensor connector. Route the wiring to prevent inter-
ference with moving components.
2 1. Connect the two pulse hoses to the respective fittings
on the fuel pump body and cover.
1 3
22. Connect the fuel supply hose to the fuel inlet fitting
on the fuel pump body. Secure all hoses to the fittings with
suitable clamps.
23. Plug the engine harness into the air temperature sen-
sor. Secure the wiring to prevent interferencewith moving 4 2
components. Install the silencer cover and secure with the
elastic straps.
WATER SEPARATING FUEL FILTER AND DIAPHRAGM FUEL PUMP

(90-1 1 5 HP MODELS [1998-20021 AND 150-17 5 HP MODELS [I
999-2002])
1. Screws 18. Clamp

2. Retainer 19. Hose (oil inlet)
3. Water in fuel sensor 20. Clamp
4. Ground screw 21.Fuel pump body
5. Washer 22. Diaphragm
6. O-ring 23. Gasket
7. Filter housing 24. Pulse hose
8. Sleeve 25. Crankcase fitting
9. Grommet 26. Plastic locking clamp
10. Washer 27. Fuel pump cover
11. Bolt 28. Mounting screws
12. Spin-on filter 29. Crankcase fitting
13. Plastic locking clamps 30. Plastic locking clamp
14. Hose (fuel inlet) 31. Pulse hose
15. Hose guide 32. Fuel hose vapor separator
16. Oil inlet hose fitting tank to filter housing
17. Hose guide 33. Mounting gasket
644 SUPPLEMENT
WATER SEPARATING FUEL FILTER AND DIAPHRAGM FUEL PUMP

(200 AND 225 HP MODELS)
1. Screw 18. Clamp

2. Retainer 19. Hose (fuel outlet)
3. Water in fuel sensor 20. Pulse hose
4. Screws 21. Plastic locking
5. O-ring clamp
6. Filter housing 22. Clamp
7. Fuel inlet fitting 23. Plastic locking
8. Sprin-on filter clamp
9. Screw 24. Pump mounting bracket
10. Fitler mounting bracket 25. Nut
11. Spacer 26. Washer
12. Washers 27. Grommet
13. Nuts 28. Sleeve
14. Pulse hose 29. Mounting stud
15. Clamps 30. Hose (fuel inlet)
16. Diaphragm fuel 31. Clamp
Pump 32. T-fitting (oil pump and
17. Clamp fuel supply hose)
fuel inlet fitting is located on the bottom of the main body 22. Install the silencer cover. Secure the cover with the
of the pump. The outlet fitting is located on the top of the two plastic thumb screws.
main body of the pump. Promptly clean up any spilled 23. Connect the battery cables.
fuel. 24. Check for fuel leakage upon start up. If leakage oc-
9. Loosen the clamps, then pull the pulse hoses (14 and curs, immediately stop the engine. Correct the cause of
20, Figure 87) from the fuel pump fittings. The pulse hose leakage before operating the engine.
fittings are located on the front and rear covers on the
Pump.
10. Remove the three nuts (25, Figure 87) and washers Diaphragm Fuel Pump Repair (90-175 hp)
(26), then pull fuel pump mounting bracket (24) from the
Always replace the check valves, diaphragm and gas-
power head. Remove the three grommets (27, Figure 87)
kets anytime the diaphragm fuel pump is disassembled.
and sleeves (28) from the mounting bracket.
The fuel pump is mounted onto the port side of the vapor
11. Remove the three screws and locknuts to fiee the
separator tank. Refer to Figure 88 for this procedure.
pump from the mounting bracket.
1. Remove the diaphragm fuel pump as described in this
12. Fit the replacement pump onto the mounting bracket.
section.
Orient the pump to position the outlet fitting facing up-
ward when the pump and bracket are installed onto the 2. Work over a container suitable for capturing spilled
power head. Secure the pump to the bracket with the three fuel. Remove the three remaining screws from the pump
screws and locknuts. Tighten the locknuts to 40-50 in.-lb. cover.
(4.5-5.6 N-m). 3. Carefully lift the cover (2, Figure 88) from the fuel
13. Install the grommets and sleeves into the pump pump body (12). If necessary, carefully pry the cover from
mounting bracket openings. Install the pump and mount- the pump body. Use a blunt tip pry bar and take all neces-
ing bracket assembly onto the power head studs. Install sary precaution to prevent damage to the mating surfaces.
the spacers (11, Figure 87). Install the three washers and 4. Retrieve the light tension spring (3, Figure 88) and cap
locknuts. Tighten the locknuts to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 (4) from the cover or fuel pump diaphragm.
N-m). 5. Remove the gasket (5, Figure 88) from the cover or
14. Connect the pulse hoses to the fuel pump fittings. The fuel pump body.
pulse hose fittings are located on the front and rear pump 6. Remove the diaphragm (6, Figure 88) from the fuel
covers. Secure the pulse hoses with suitable clamps. pump body. Retrieve the heavier tension spring (8, Figure I
15. Connect the fuel inlet and outlet hoses to the fuel 88) and cap (7) fiom the pocket in the fuel pump body.
pump fittings. The fuel inlet fitting is located on the bot- 7. 150 and 175 hp (1998 and 1999)-Remove the rear
tom of the main body of the pump. The outlet fitting is lo- plate and gasket fiom the back side of the fuel pump body.
cated on top of the main pump body. Secure the hoses onto 8. Locate the plastic check valve retaining pin for both
the fittings with suitable clamps. checkvalves. The pin fits into the check valve shaft (9 and
16. Install the filter housing to the power head. Apply a 15, Figure 88) at the opposite side of the pump body from
light coating of OMC Nut Lock to the threads, then thread each check valve. Use a small scribe to push the pin into
the two screws (4, Figure 87) through the filter housing the check valve shaft enough to relax the pressure on the
and into the filter mounting bracket. Tighten the screws to check valve shaft fingers. With the fingers relaxed, pull
60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N-m). the check valve, washer and shaft from the pump body.
17. Connect the fuel inlet hose to the fitting on the side of Discard the check valves.
the filter housing. Secure the hose with the clamp. 9. Discard the diaphragm and gaskets.
18. Plug the engine harness connector into the water in 10. Clean all components using a light solvent.
fuel sensor connector. Route the wiring to prevent inter- 11. Inspect the fuel pump body and covers for damaged
ference with moving components. worn or deteriorated surfaces. Use a straightedge to check
19. Install the vapor separator tank as described in this for mating surface warp. Replace the diaphragm fuel
section. pump if any of the surfaces are warped or otherwise defec-
20. Install the starter motor as described in Chapter tive.
Seven. 12. Guide the shafts into the openings while installing the
21. Plug the engine wire harness connector into the air new check valves into the fuel pump body.
temperature sensor. Ensure the tab on the harness connec- 13. Make sure the fingers on the check valve shafts clear
tor engages the tab on the sensor. Tug on the connector to the openings in the pump body. Insert the plastic pins into
verify a secure connection. the opening in the center of the shaft until they are flush
646 SUPPLEMENT
with the end of the fingers. Do not push the pins below the 19A. I50 and 175hp (1997 and 1998)--Check for proper
finger surfaces. Otherwise, the fingers may not retain the alignment of the gaskets and diaphragm, then install the
check valve shaft. Tug lightly on the opposite side of the three screws retaining the covers onto the pump body. In-
check valve to verify a secure fit. stall the three screws finger-tight.
14. Fit the heavier tension spring into the pocket in the 19B. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-175 hp
fuel pump body. Fit the spring cap onto the exposed end of (1999-2002)-To keep the components aligned during
the spring. pump installation, insert the five mounting screws
15. Install a new diaphragm, then gasket onto the fuel through the outer cover, pump body, diaphragm and gas-
pump body. Work carefully to avoid dislodging the spring kets.
and cap. 20. Install the diaphragm fuel pump as described in this
16. Fit the light tension spring into the pocket in the outer section.
pump cover. The pocket aligns with the fuel fitting on the
cover. Fit the cap onto the exposed end of the spring. Vapor Separator Tank Removal and Installation
17. Use a feeler gauge to hold the spring and cap into the (150-175 hp [I997 and 19981)
cover, while fitting the outer pump cover onto the pump
body. Do not allow the springs or caps to fall out of posi- The vapor separator tank mounts to the fkont of the
tion. power head. Before beginning this procedure, make a
18. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Maintain pressure drawing or mark hoses indicating the routing and connec-
to secure the outer cover to the pump body while install- tion points for all hoses connected to the vapor separator
ing a new gasket and the rear cover onto the pump body. tank. Improper hose connection will result in engine mal-
DIAPHRAGM FUEL PUMP COMPONENTS

(90-175 HP MODELS)
1. Screws 9. Check valve shafl

2. Pump cover 10. Washer
3. Light tension spring 11. Check valve
4. Cap 12. Pump body
5. Gasket 13. Check valve
6. Diaphragm 14. Washer
7. Cap 15. Check valve shaft
8. Heavier tension spring 16. Gasket
1997-2002 FIGHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 647
function andlor possible water contamination of the fuel d. Ensure the E-clips fit into their respective grooves
system. Refer to Figure 84 for this procedure. on the mounting studs.
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental e. Check for fuel leakage upon start up. If leakage oc-
starting. curs, immediately stop the engine. Correct the cause
2. Remove the silencer cover for better access to the of leakage before operating the engine.
pump. Unplug the air temperature sensor to prevent dam-
age to the sensor wiring. Elastic straps secure the silencer
cover to the power head. Electric fuel pump replacement
3. Unplug the engine wire harness from the electric fuel (150 and 175 hp 11997 and 1998')
pump connector.
4. Loosen the clamps, then disconnect the water inlet and
outlet hoses (24 and 26, Figure 84) from the water jacket 1. Remove the vapor separator tank as described in this
fittings. section.
5. Loosen the clamp, then disconnect the oil pump mani- 2. Remove the three screws (33, Figure 84) that retain
fold hose from the diaphragm fuel pump fitting. Clean up the electric fuel pump clamp plate (34) onto the vapor sep-
any spilled oil. arator tank.
6. Loosen the clamp, then disconnect the inlet hose (14, 3. Pull lightly on the elbo fitting (28, Figure 84) at the
Figure 84) fiom the diaphragm fuel pump fitting. Clean bottom of the pump to remove it from the vapor separator
up any spilled fuel. tank. Pull the elbo fitting from the fuel pump.
7. Remove the clamps, then disconnect the two crankcase 4. Remove the O-rings from the elbo fitting. Discard the
pulse hoses (8, Figure 84) from the diaphragm type fuel O-rings.
pump fittings. Note if any fuel is present in the pulse 5. Engage a wrench onto the flat surfaces near the lower
hoses. Fuel in the hoses indicates possible failure of the fuel pump fitting. Use a second wrench to remove the fit-
fuel pump diaphragm. If fuel is found in the hoses, disas- ting (3 1, Figure 84) from the bottom of the fuel pump. Re-
semble and inspect the fuel pump as described in this sec- move the O-ring (32, Figure 84) from the fitting or pump
tion. opening. Discard the O-ring. Use the same method to re-
8. Wrap a shop towel around the upper fitting (46, Figure move the fuel hose fitting (46, Figure 84) from the upper
84) on the electric fuel pump to capture spilled fuel. end of the fuel pump.
Loosen the clamp, then carefully remove the fuel hose 6. Clean all components with an aerosol carburetor
from the outlet fitting on the top of the electric fuel pump. cleaner.
Drain the disconnected hoses and promptly clean up any 7. Lubricate the new O-rings with two-cycle outboard
spilled fuel. oil, then fit the new O-rings into the fittings (3 1 and 46,
9. Remove the clamp, then pull the vent hose (1, Figure Figure 84). Thread the upper and lower fittings into their
84) from the vapor separator tank. Inspect the vent hose respective openings. Tighten the lower fitting to 95-120
for the presence of fuel. Fuel in the hose indicates a flood- in.-lb. (10.8-13.6 N-m). Use the same method to tighten
ing condition in the vapor separator tank. If fuel is found the upper fitting to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N.m).
in the hoses, repair the vapor separator tank as described 8. Lubricate the surfaces with two-cycle outboard engine
in this section. oil, then slip the new O-rings onto the elbo fitting (28,
10. Loosen the clamps, then carefully pull the fuel return Figure 84). Fit the O-rings into the grooves in the elbo fit-
and water separating fuel filter hoses (3 and 7, Figure 84) ting.
from the vapor separator tank fittings. Clean up any 9. Carefully insert the elbo fitting into the opening at the
spilled fuel. bottom of the electric oil pump fitting. Do not dislodge the
11. Pull the E-clips (42, Figure 84) from the mounting O-rings from the elbo fitting.
studs (35 and 40), then carefully pull the vapor separator 10. Guide the other end of the elbo fitting into the vapor
tank from the power head. separator tank opening while the electric fuel pump is in-
12. Installation in the reverse of removal. Note the fol- stalled. Align the fuel pump with its recess in the vapor
lowing: separator tank, then seat the pump in the recess.
a. Replace damaged, corroded or suspect hose clamps. 11. Fit the fuel pump clamp plate (34, Figure 84) onto the
Replace deteriorated, leaking or suspect fuel hoses. electric fuel pump and vapor tank. Apply a light coating of
b. Securely tighten all hose clamps upon installation. OMC Nut Lock onto the threads, then thread the three
c. Route all hoses and wiring to prevent interference screws into the clamp and tank openings. Tighten the
with moving components. screws evenly to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N-m).
SUPPLEMENT
12. Install the vapor separator tank as described in this 4. Remove the six screws (54, Figure 84), then carefully
section. lift the cover (53) from the tank. Remove the gasket (6,
Figure 84) from the cover or tank mating surface. Discard
the gasket.
Fuel pressure regulator replacement 5. Pull the pin (5, Figure 84) from the cover bosses and
(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981) float arm, then lift the float (16) from the cover, Remove
1. Remove the vapor separator tank as described in this the inlet needle (50, Figure 84) and pull-off clip (49) from
section. the float arm. Carefully unthread the seat (5 1, Figure 84)
2. Remove the two screws that secure the fuel pressure
and remove it from the cover. Remove and discard the
regulator fitting onto the vapor separator tank. This fitting sealing washer (52, Figure 84).
also contains the schraeder valve fitting used for checking 6. Remove the six screws (22, Figure 84), then carefully
fuel pressure. pry the water jacket cover (21) from the vapor tank.Re-
move the gasket (20, Figure 84) from the cover or tank
3. Carefully pull the upper fitting from the tank.Remove
mating surfaces. Discard the gasket.
the O-ring from the fitting.
7. Clean all components with a suitable solvent and blow
4. Invert the vapor separator tank over a container suit-
dry with compressed air. Be sure to remove debris or con-
able for holding fuel. Capture the check ball, spring guide
taminants from the tank vent valve. Blow air through the
and springs as they fall from the opening.
vent hose fitting to clean the valve.
5. Clean all removed components with an aerosol carbu-
8. Inspect the fuel bowl and water jacket surfaces for
retor cleaner then dry them with compressed air.
cracked, deep corrosion pitting or other damage. Replace
6. Inspect the spring and check ball for corrosion or other
the tank assembly if its condition is questionable.
damage. Replace corroded, worn or damaged compo-
9. Inspect the inlet needle for worn or damaged surfaces
nents.
(Figure 89). Replace the needle unless found to be in per-
7. Lubricate the surfaces with two-cycle outboard oil, fect condition.
then fit the O-ring onto the fuel fitting. Seat the O-ring 10. Inspect the float for damaged or deteriorated sur-
against the mounting flange. faces. Push a thumbnail against the body of the float. Re-
8. Insert the check ball into the opening in the bottom of place the float if fuel appears in the thumbnail indentation.
the fitting. Fuel in the indentation indicates that fuel has saturated the
9. Insert the smaller diameter side of the guide into the float.
end of the spring. Insert the guide and spring into the fit- 1 1. Install a new sealing washer onto the needle seat, then
ting opening. Seat the guide against the check ball. thread the seat into the cover. Securely tighten the seat.
10. Keep the ball, guide and spring in the fitting while 12. Install the pull-off clip onto the inlet needle, then fit
guiding the spring into its vapor separator tank opening. the pull-off clip over the tab on the float arm.
11. Seat the fitting against the housing. Rotate the fitting 13. Guide the inlet needle into the seat while lowering the
to align the screw openings, then thread the two screws float into position on the cover. Insert the pin through the
into the fitting and tank cover. Securely tighten the two cover bosses and float arm openings. The larger diameter
screws. end of the pin must seat against the boss.
12. Install the vapor separator tank as described in this
section.
Vapor separator tank repair Damaged

(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981)

1. Remove the vapor separator tank as described in this
section.
2. Remove the fuel pressure regulator and electric fuel
pump as described in this section.
3. Place a container suitable for holding fuel under the
opening, then remove the drain screw (19, Figure 84).
Drain the tank.Remove the O-ring fiom the drain screw.
Discard the O-ring
14. Measure the float height from the mating surface of the six screws into the cover and tank. Tighten the screws
the cover to the top of the float (Figure 90). The float in a crossing pattern to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N.m).
height should be 0.030-0.060 in. (0.8- 1.5 mm). If neces- 18. Install the electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regu-
sary, remove the float and carefully bend the float arm to lator as described in this section.
achieve the correct float height. 19. Fit a new O-ring (18, Figure 84) onto the drain screw
15. Install a new gasket onto the cover. Guide the float (19). Install and securely tighten the drain screw.
into the tank while lowering the cover onto the mating 20. Install the vapor separator tank as described in t h s
surface. section.
16. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock onto the
threads, then thread the six screws into the cover and tank.
Tighten the screws evenly to 18-24 in.-lb. (2.0-2.7 N-m) Vapor Separator Tank Replacement
and in the sequence shown in Figure 91. (90-115 hp [1998-20021
17. Install a new gasket onto the water jacket cover. Fit and 150-225 hp [1999-20021)
the cover and gasket onto the tank opening. Apply a light
coating of OMC Nut Lock onto the threads, then thread The vapor separatortank assembly mounts to the rear of
the power head. On 200 and 225 hp, the vapor separator
tank mounts to the lower port side of the power head.
Before beginning this procedure, make a drawing or
mark hoses to indicating the routing and connection point
for the hoses connected to the vapor separator tank. Im-
proper hose connection will result in engine malfunction
andfor possible water contamination of the fuel system.
Before disconnecting any of the fuel hoses, wrap a shop
towel around the connector or fittings to capture spilled
fuel. Promptly clean up any spilled fuel. To assist with
component identification and orientation, refer to the ap-
propriate illustration (Figures 92-94).
starting.
2. Push in on the tab, then pull the quick connector from
the electric fuel pump fitting.
3. Push in on the tabs, then disconnect the fuel supply and
fuel return hoses from the fittings at the bottom of the va-
por separator tank.
4. Remove the clamp, then disconnect the vent hose from I
-
the fitting on top of the vapor separator tank.
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
(150 AND 175 HP MODELS 5. Note if fuel is found in the vent hose. Fuel in the hose
11998 AND 19991) indicates a flooding vapor separator tank.Replace the va-
por separator tank assembly if flooding. The manufac-
turer does not offer replacement parts or repair
instructions for the vapor separator tank.
6. Remove the clamps, then pull the cooling water hoses
fiom the vapor separator tank fittings.
7. Plug the engine wire harness from the electric fuel
pump connector.
8. Remove the E-clip from the boss to fiee the starboard
or rear side of the tank fiom the power head.
9. Remove the two screws, washers grommets and
sleeves that retain the vapor separator tank to the power
head. Pull the vapor separator tank assembly from the
power head.
650 SUPPLEMENT
VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK AND DIRECT INJECTORS

(90-115 HP MODELS)
1. Vent hose 14. Grommet

2. Clamp 15. Sleeve
3. Clamp 16. E-clip
4. Vapor separator tank 17. Clamp
5. Mounting studlboss 18. Direct injector
6. Washer 19. Insulator
7. Fuel inlet hose (from 20. Washer
water separating fuel filter) 21. Screw
8. Clamp 22. Fuel inlet hose
9. Water inlet hose (from 23. O-rings (black)
cylinder block fitting) 24. Retainer
10. Clamp 25. Fuel return hose
11. Water outlet hose 26. O-rings (brown)
(to ECU or EMM) 27. Fuel pressure test port
12. Bolt 28. Clamp
13. Washer

(150-150 HP MODELS [1998-200211)
1. Clamp 14. Washer

2. Vent hose 15. Grommet
3. Clamp 16. Sleeve
4. Clamp 17. E-clip
5. Vapor separator tank 18. Clamp
6. Mounting studlboss 19. Direct fuel injector
7. Washer 20. Washer
8. Fuel inlet hose (from 21. Screw
water separating fuel filter) 22. Retainer
9. Clamp 23. Clamp
10. Water inlet hose (from 24. O-rings (black)
cylinder block fitting) 25. Fuel inlet hose
11. Clamps 26. Fuel return hose
12. Water inlet hose 27. O-rings (brown)
(to ECU or EMM) 28. Fuel pressure test port
13. Bolt
652 SUPPLEMENT

1. Water hose (from 16. Fuel pressure port

cylinder block fitting) 17. Cap
2. Clamp 18. Fuel return hose
3. Water hose 19. O-ring (brown)
(to ECU or EMM) 20. Shim
4. Vapor separator tank 21. Direct fuel injector
5. E-clip (port side)
6. Clamp 22. Washer
7. Vent hose 23. Screw
8. Washer 24. Retainer
9. Sleeve 25. Fuel inlet hose
10. Grommet 26. O-ring (black)
11. Washer 27. Retainer
12. Bolt 28. Screw
13. Grommet 29. Washer
14. Mounting studlboss 30. Direct fuel injector
15. Fuel hose (water separating 31. Shim
fuel filter to vapor separator 32. Clamp
tank)
10. Fit the replacement vapor separator tank assembly 4. Loosen then clamp, then carefully pull the fuel inlet
onto the power head. Ensure the mounting boss for the hose from fitting at the bottom of the port fuel inlet rail.
E-clip passes through the opening in the tank bracket. In- 5. Push in on the retaining clips (12 and 16, Figure 95),
stall the E-clip into its groove in the mounting boss. then carefully pull the quick connect fittings and the
11. Install the two washers, grommets and sleeves into crossover hose (14, Figure 95) from the bottom of the fuel
the mount openings in the tank mounting bracket. Thread inlet rails.
the mounting screws through the sleeves and into the 6. Remove any clamps from the rails, then carefully pull
power head. Securely tighten the two screws. the fuel inlet rails (9 and 17, Figure 95) from the direct in-
12. Plug the engine wire harness connector onto the elec- jector fittings. The inlet rails are located on the port side of
tric fuel pump harness connector. Route the wiring to pre- the direct injectors.
vent contact with moving components. 7. Loosen the clamp, then carefully pull the fuel return
13. Connect the vent hose to the fitting on top of the va- hose from fitting at the top of the port fuel return rail.
por separator tank. Secure the hose with the clamp. 8. Push in on the retaining clips (20 and 24, Figure 95),
then carefully pull the quick connect fittings and the
14. Connect the cooling water hoses to the respective fit-
crossover hose (22, Figure 95) from the top of the fuel re-
tings on the side of the vapor separator tank. The hose
turn rails.
connected to the lower fittings leads to the cylinder block
9. Remove any clamps from the rails, then carefully pull
fittings. The hose connected to the upper fitting connects
the fuel return rails (19 and 25, Figure 95) from the direct
to the engine control unit (ECU) or engine management
injector fittings. The fuel return rails are located on the
module (EMM). Secure the hoses to the fittings with suit-
starboard side of the direct injectors.
able clamps.
10. Engage an open end wrench onto the flats on direct
15. Push the tab in, then push the fuel return hose to the fuel injector (5, Figure 95). Rotate the direct injector
fitting at the bottom of the vapor separator tank. Release counterclockwise to remove the injector and adapter from
the tab, then tug on the connector to verify a secure con- the cylinder head. Remove the adapter (10, Figure 95)
nection. Connect the fuel supply hose to the remaining fit- from the direct injector threads. The injector threads are
ting using the same procedure. left-hand. Repeat Steps 2-10 for the remaining injectors.
16. Push the tab in, then push the quick connector on the 11. Clean all threadlocking compound from the injectors,
delivery hose onto the electric fuel pump fittings. Release adapters and cylinder head threads.
the tab, then tug on the connector to verify a secure con- 12. Apply a light coating of OMC UltraLock to the exter-
nection. nal threads of the adapter. Thread the adapter into the cyl-
17. Connect the battery cables. Route all hoses to prevent inder head until fully seated, then back the adapter away
interference with moving components. from the head exactly one turn.
18. Check for fuel leakage upon start up. If leakage oc- 13. Apply a light coating of OMC Ultra Lock onto the six
curs, immediately stop the engine. Correct the cause of threads of the injector that are closest to the injector body.
leakage before operating the engine. Hold the adapter with the crowfoot adapter to prevent ro-
tation, then thread the injector into the adapter until it
seats against the cylinder head. The injector threads are
Direct Injector Replacement left-hand. Turn the adapter counterclockwise to thread
(150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981) into the adapter.
14. While holding the adapter as described in Step 13,
The direct injectors thread into adapters that thread di- turn the injector clockwise until the injector fittings align
rectly into cylinder head openings. To capture spilled fuel, as follows:
wrap a shop towel around fitting prior to disconnecting a. The larger diameter fuel inlet fitting is facing the
the hoses or fuel rails. Promptly clean up any spilled fuel. port side.
Use a 1-112 in. crowfoot adapter, torque wrench and the b. The smaller diameter fuel return fitting is facing the
injector positioning tool (OMC part No. 342673) to install starboard side.
the injectors. Refer to Figure 95 for this procedure. c. The electrical connector is facing upward.
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental d. The fittings are horizontal.
starting. 15. Engage the slot of the positioning tool onto the flat
2. Unplug the wire harness connector from the injector. surfaces at the base of the injector. Engage the crowfoot
3. Remove the retainer (1, Figure 95) from the two fit- adapter onto the adapter that is threaded into the cylinder
tings on each injector. head. Attach the torque wrench to the crowfoot adapter
654 SUPPLEMENT
I@ FUEL RAILS AND INJECTORS

(150 AND 175 HP MODELS 11997 AND 19981)
1. Retainer 15. O-rings

2. O-rings (brown) 16. Retaining clip
3. Fitting (fuel return) 17. Fuel inlet rail
4. O-ring (starboard cylinder bank)
5. Direct fuel injector 18. Clamp
6. O-ring 19. Fuel return rail
7. Fitting (fuel inlet) (port cylinder bank)
8. O-rings (black) 20. Retaining clip
9. Fuel inlet rail 21. O-rings
(port cylinder bank) 22. Crossover hose
10. Adapter (fuel return)
11. Clamp 23. O-rings
12. Retaining clip 24. Retaining clip
13. O-rings 25. Fuel return rail
14. Crossover hose (starboard cylinder bank)
(fuel inlet)
(Figure 96). Use the positioning tool to hold the injector 2 1. Plug the engine wire harness connector into each fuel
in position, then tighten the adapter to 50-60 ft.-lb. injector. Route the wiring to prevent interference with
(67.8-81.3 N-m). The injector must remain in the position moving components.
described in Step 14. If it moves, remove and reinstall the 22. Connect the battery cables. Pump the primer bulb to
injector as described in Steps 10-15. fill the vapor separator tank with fuel.
16. Repeat Steps 12-15 for the remaining fuel injectors. 23. Observe all hose and fuel rail connectors whlle an as-
17. Apply a light coating of two-cycle outboard oil onto sistant turns the ignition key switch to the ON position. If
the injector fittings. Carefully fit the fuel inlet and fuel re- fuel leakage is noted, have the assistant immediately turn
turn rail fittings onto the injector fittings. The fuel inlet the ignition key switch to the OFF position. Correct the
rail fittings are larger in diameter and connect onto the fit- fuel leakage before operating the engine.
tings on the port side of the injectors. The fuel return rail
fittings are smaller in diameter and connect onto the fit-
tings on the starboard side of the injectors. Push the con- Direct Injector Repair
nectors fully into the injector fittings, then install the (150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981)
retainer (1, Figure 95) to secure the connectors. Tug on
each connector to verify a secure connection. This procedure covers direct injector disassembly, in-
18. Press the retaining clips, then carefully push fuel re- spection and assembly. Replace all O-rings, the check ball
turn and fuel inlet crossover hose fittings onto the fuel re- and check ball spring anytime the injector is disassem-
turn rail fittings. Pull back on the clips to secure the hose bled. These components are included in the direct injector
fittings onto the rails. Tug on the fittings to verify a secure service kit. A check valve removaVinstallationtool (OMC
connection. Install a plastic locking clamp onto the quick part No. 342678) is required for this procedure. Refer to
connect fitting to prevent the tab from moving and releas- Figure 97 for this procedure.
ing the connector. 1. Remove the direct injector(s) as described in this sec-
19. Connect the fuel inlet hose to the fitting on the bottom tion.
of the port fuel inlet rail. Tighten the clamp to secure the 2. Carefully pull the nozzle (16, Figure 97) from the tip
hose to the fitting. of the injector.
20. Connect the fuel return hose to the fitting on the top of 3. Clamp the flat surfaces of the injector body (11, Figure
the port fuel return rail. Tighten the clamp to secure the 97) into a vise with protective jaws.
hose to the fitting. 4. Insert the removaYinstallation tool into the injector
openings. Align the pins on the tool with the openings,
then seat the tool against the check valve (15, Figure 97).
Turn the tool to remove the check valve. Remove the
@ Torque
wrench
O-ring (14, Figure 97) from the check valve. Discard the
O-ring.
5. Remove the spring (13, Figure 97) and check ball (12)
from the opening.
6. Remove the O-rings (8 and 10, Figure 97) ffom the
fuel inlet and fuel return fittings. Then, use a suitable deep
socket to remove the fittings (7 and 9, Figure 97) from the
injector body. Remove the O-rings from the threaded end
of each fitting. Discard the O-rings.
7. Clamp the flat surfaces near the tip of the injector into a
vise with protective jaws. Using a suitable wrench, re-
move the injector coil housing (1, Figure 97) from the in-
jector body. Remove the O-ring (2, Figure 97) from the
coil housing or injector body. Discard the O-ring.
8. Remove the bushing (3, Figure 97) and washer (4)
from the injector opening. Remove the plunger (5, Figure
97) and spring (6) from the injector body. Handle the
Positioningtool spring carefully. Stretching, compressing or damaging the
OMC part No. 342637 injector spring in any manner may effect fuel delivery to the en-
gine.
656 SUPPLEMENT
CAUTION grease onto the surfaces, then place a new O-ring onto the
Use an aerosol carburetor cleaner to re- bushing. Seat the O-ring onto the step.
move contaminants from the injector com-
13. Lubricate the surfaces with OMC Triple-Guard
ponents (except the injector coil housing).
Do not allow solvent to contact the injector grease, then install the new O-ring into the recess in the in-
coil housing as the coil will be irreparably jector coil housing.
damaged. Never use strong solvents or use 14. Thread the injector coil housing into the injector
heated solvent to clean injector compo- body. Clamp the flat surfaces near the tip of the injector
nents. Strong or heated solvents may dam- using a vise with protective jaws. Using a suitable crow-
age certain components or damage sealing foot adapter and torque wrench, tighten the injector hous-
surfaces. ing to 20-30 ft.-lb. (27.1-40.7 N-m).
15. Apply a light coating of OMC Triple-Guard grease to
9. Use a suitable solvent to clean all contaminants from the surfaces, then install the new O-rings onto the
the injector components (except the hous- threaded ends of the fuel hose fittings. Thread the fittings
not to 'Ontact the injector into the injectorbody, then use a deep socket to tighten the
housing. fittings to 60-72 in.-lb. (6.8-8.1 N.m). Apply the same
10. Inspect all components for worn or damaged sur- grease, then install new O-rings onto the fuel hose fittings.
faces. Replace the injector if any components are found to Use the brown colored O-rings for the fuel inlet fitting.
be faulty and are not included in the service kit. Use the black O-rings for the fuel return fitting.
11. Insert the large spring, then plunger into the injector 16. Invert the direct injector and clamp the flat surfaces
opening. The white plastic side of the plunger must con- of the coil housing into the vise. Insert the ball then spring
tact the spring. into the tip opening.
12. Insert the washer into the opening and seat against the 17. Lubricate the surfaces with OMC Triple-Guard
plunger. Fit the bushing over the plunger shaft with the grease, then install a new O-ring onto the check valve. In-
O-ring step facing upward. Seat the bushing against the sert the check valve into the tip opening with the O-ring
washer. Apply a light coating of OMC Triple-Guard side facing inward.
1. Coil housing 9. Fuel return fitting

2. O-ring 10. O-rings (black)
3. Bushing 11. Injector body
4. Washer 12. Check ball
5. Plunger 13. Spring
6. Spring 14. O-ring
7. Fuel inlet fitting 15. Check valve
8. 0-rlng (brown) 16. Nozzle
1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 657 ~

18. Use the removal/installation tool to hand-thread the with the cylinder head, then tighten the injector mounting
check valve into the opening. Then, tighten the check screws to 12-14 ft.-lb. (16.3-18.9 N.m).
valve to 80-100 in.-lb. (9.0-11.3 N-m). 10. Apply a light coating of two-cycle outboard oil to the
19. Fit the nozzle into the injector tip opening with the ta- surfaces, then fit new O-rings onto the fuel hose to direct
pered side facing outward. Using a small screwdriver, injector fittings. Install the brown O-rings onto the fuel in-
press on the nozzle retaining ring while pushing the noz- let fittings. Install the black O-rings onto the fuel return
zle into the opening. Work carefully and avoid unneces- fittings.
sary contact with the nozzle surfaces. Continue pressing 11. Carefully insert the fuel inlet and fuel outlet hose fit-
around the circumference of the ring until the ring and ting into the respective openings in the injector. Push the
nozzle enter the opening. Seat the nozzle against the fittings into the openings, then insert the retaining clip
check valve. over each injector fitting. The clip must pass into the slots
20. Install the direct injector as described in this sec- in the injector fittings and engage the grooves in the hose
tion. fittings. Lock the clip to the slot, then tug on the fittings to
verify a secure connection.
Direct Injector Replacement 12. Plug the engine wire harness connector into the injec-
(90-115 hp [199&2002] tor connector. Route the wiring to prevent interference
and 150-175 hp [1999-20021) with moving components.
13. Repeat Steps 10-12 for the remaining injectors.
Two screws secure the direct injector to the cylinder 14. Fit the fuel inlet hose quick connector onto the
head. To capture spilled fuel, wrap a shop towel around electric fuel pump fitting. Press on the tab, then push
fitting prior to disconnecting the hoses or fuel rails. When the connector fully over the fitting. Release the tab to
disconnecting hoses from the vapor separator tank, place lock the connector. Tug the hose to verify a secure con-
a suitable container under fittings to capture the fuel. nection.
Promptly clean up any spilled fuel. Refer to Figure 92 or 15. Fit the fuel return hose quick connector onto the va-
93 for this procedure. por separator tank fitting. Press the tab, then push the con-
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental nector over the fitting. Release the tab to lock the
starting. connector. Tug the hose to verify a secure connection.
2. Push the tab in, then disconnect the fuel inlet hose con- 16. Connect the battery cables. Pump the primer bulb to
nector from the electric fuel pump fitting. fill the vapor separator tank with fuel.
3. Push the tab in, then disconnect the fuel return hose fit- 17. Observe all hose and fuel rail connectors while an as-
ting from the fitting near the bottom of the vapor separator sistant turns the ignition key switch to the ON position. If
tank. Drain all residual fuel from the hoses. fuel leakage is noted, have the assistant immediately turn
4. Unplug the engine wire harness connector from the in- the ignition key switch to the OFF position. Correct the
jector. fuel leakage before operating the engine.
5. Use needle nose pliers to pull the retainer clips from the
injector fittings. Then, pull the fuel inlet and fuel return
hose connectors from the injector fittings. Remove the Direct Injector Replacement
O-rings from the hose connectors. Discard the O-rings. (200 and 225 hp)
6 . Remove the screws from the injector flange, then care-
fully pull the injector away from the cylinder head. Two screws secure the direct injector and mounting
7. Repeat Steps 4-6 for the remaining injectors. flange to the cylinder head.To capture spilled fuel, wrap a
8. Use an aerosol carburetor cleaner to remove all oily shop towel around fitting prior to disconnecting the hoses
deposits and other contaminants from the injector open- or fuel rails. When disconnecting hoses from the vapor
ings. Use the same cleaner to remove contaminants from separator tank, place a suitable container under the fittings
the external surfaces of the direct fuel injector. to capture the fuel. Promptly clean up any spilled fuel. Re-
fer to Figure 94 for this procedure.
9. Install the injector onto the cylinder head mounting
surface. Rotate the injector to align the mounting screws. 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
The fuel hose openings must face toward the opposite cyl- starting.
inder bank. Install the two mounting screws and washers 2. Push the tab in, then disconnect fuel inlet hose connec-
and hand-tighten. Verify proper alignment of the injector tor from the electric fuel pump fitting.
SUPPLEMENT
3. Push the tab in, then disconnect the fuel return hose fit- 10. Attempt to insert a 0.028 in. (0.7 1 mm) feeler gauge
ting from the fitting near the bottom of the vapor separator between the cylinder head and the mounting flange (Fig-
tank. Drain all residual fuel fkom the hoses. ure 98). Insert the gauge at a point aligned with the center
4. Unplug the engine wire harness connector from the in- of the injector body. Refer to the following:
jector. a. Feeler gage can be inserted-Remove, then rein-
stall the injector using an additional shun between
5. Use needle nose pliers to pull the retainer clips (24 or
the flange and the cylinder head. Do not use more
27, Figure 94) from the injector fittings. Then, pull the
than two shims. Check the clearance as described in
fuel inlet and fuel return hose connectors from the injector
this step.
fittings. Remove the O-rings from the hose connectors.
Discard the O-rings. b. Feeler gauge cannot be inserted-The clearance is
within the acceptable range. Proceed to Step 11.
6. Remove the screws and washers from the injector 11. Apply a light coating of two-cycle outboard oil onto
flange, then carefully pull the injector away from the cyl- the surfaces, then fit new O-rings onto the fuel hose to di-
inder head. Discard the injector mounting screws. Re- rect injector fittings. Install the brown O-rings onto the
move the shim (20 or 31, Figure 94) from the flange or fuel inlet fittings. Install the black O-rings onto the fuel re-
cylinder head surface. Mark the cylinder number on the turn fittings.
injector and shim. If reused, these components must be in-
12. Carefully insert the fuel inlet and fuel outlet hose fit-
stalled onto the original cylinder head mounting location.
ting into their respective openings in the injector. Push the
7. Repeat Steps 4-6 for the remaining injectors. fittings fully into the openings, then insert the retaining
8. Use an aerosol carburetor cleaner to remove all oily clip over each injector fitting. The clip must pass into the
deposits and other contaminants from the injector open- slots in the injector fittings and engage the grooves in the
ings. Use the same cleaner to remove contaminants from hose fittings. Lock the clip into the slot, then tug on the fit-
the external surfaces of the direct fuel injector. tings to verify a secure connection.
9. Install the shim and injector to the original cylinder 13. Plug the engine wire harness connector onto the in-
head mounting surface. Rotate the injector to align the jector connector. Route the wiring to prevent interference
mounting screws. The fuel hose openings must face up- with moving components.
ward. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock to the 14. Repeat Steps 11-13 for the remaining injectors.
threads, then install the new mounting screws and wash- 15. Fit the fuel inlet hose quick connector onto the elec-
ers. Hand-tighten the screws. Verify proper alignment of tric fuel pump fitting. Press on the tab, then push the con-
the injector with the cylinder head, then tighten the injec- nector over the fitting. Release the tab to lock the
tor mounting screws to 12-14 ft.-lb. (16.3-18.9 N.m). connector. Tug on the hose to verify a secure connection.
Direct Injector
0.028 in.
(0.71 mm)
-
-/
Cylinder head
16. Fit the fuel return hose quick connector onto the Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
vapor separator tank fitting. Press the tab, then push
the connector over the fitting. Release the tab to lock The intake manifold and throttle body assembliesused on
the connector. Tug the hose to verify a secure connec- Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) models is very sirmlar to the as-
tion. sembliesused on carburetor equippedmodels.The main dif-
17. Connect the battery cables. Pump the primer bulb to ference is that FFI models do not have a carburetor body
fill the vapor separator tank with fuel. mounted to the throttle body. Sleeve type seals connect the
18. Observe all hose and fuel rail connectors while an as- silencer cover to the throttle body openings. Refer to Chapter
sistant turns the ignition key switch to the ON position. If Six in the main body of the manual for throttle body removal
fuel leakage is noted, have the assistant immediately turn and installation instructions. Use the instructions fiom the
the ignition key switch to the OFF position. Correct the carburetor equipped models with the same horsepower rat-
fuel leakage before operating the engine. ing.
Table 12 FUEL SYSTEM TORQUE VALUES

I Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. N*m
Diaphragmfuel pump
Pump mounting screws
1997and 1998 25-30 - 2.8-3.4
1999-2002 40-50 - 4.5-5.6
Water separating filter housing 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Pump mounting bracket (200 and 225 hp) 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Direct fuel injector
lnjector adapter
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) - 50-60 67.8-81.3
Injector coil
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) - 20-30 27.1 -40.7
lnjector check valve
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 80-100 - 9.0-1 1.3
Injector mounting flange - 12-14 16.3-19.0
Fuel hose fittings
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 60-72 - 6.8-8.1
Electric fuel pump
Mounting clamp screws 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Fuel pump fitting
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)
Upper fitting 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Lower fitting 96-120 - 10.8-13.6
Throttle body to intake 120-144 - 13.6-16.3
Vapor separator
Mounting bracket
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Water jacket cover
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Top cover screws
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 18-24 .- 2.0-2.7
Water separating fuel filter
Mounting bracket 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
Fuel hose fittings
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 120-168 - 13.6-19.0
Water in fuel sensor retainer (1999-2002) 25-35 - 2.8-3.9
SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER SEVEN
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION SYSTEM
Thts section describes battery requirements and re- The minimum battery requirement will vary by model
placement procedures for the electrical and ignition sys- and the ambient temperature in which the engine will be
tem components unique to Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) operated. Refer to the following for minimum require-
models. Refer to Chapter Seven for replacement and re- ments:
pair instructions for the starter motor and other electrical 1. 90-115 hp--If operating at 32" F (0" C) and higher
components not covered in this section. temperatures, use a 12 volt battery with a 500 CCA (620
MCA) rating. If operating at temperatures below 32" F (0"
C), use a 12 volt battery with a 675 CCA (845 MCA) or
Electrical Component Replacement
107 amp-hour rating.
Most marine dealerships and parts suppliers will not ac- 2. 150-225 h ~ l operating
f at 32" F (0" C) and higher
cept the return of any electrical part. If the exact cause of temperatures, use a 12 volt group 29 battery with a 675
any electrical system malfunction cannot be determined, CCA (845 MCA) or 107 amp-hour rating. If operating at
have a EvinrudeIJohnson dealership retest that specific below 320 (0" C), use a l2 group 29
system to verify your test results. If you purchase a new with a 750 CCA(940 MCA) rating.
electrical component(s), install it, and then find that the
system still does not work properly, you will probably be
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
unable to return the unit for a refund.
(90-175 hp)
Consider any test results carefully before replacing a
component that tests only slightly out of specification, es- Two screws secure the clamp and crankshaft position
pecially resistance. A number of variables can affect test sensor to the flywheel cover. A feeler gauge is required to
results dramatically. These include: the internal circuitry set the sensor to flywheel air gap. Refer to Figure 99 for
of the test meter, ambient temperature and conditions un- this procedure.
der which the machine has been operated.
I. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
All instructions and specifications have been checked
starting.
for accuracy; however, successful test results depend
upon the tester's accuracy. 2. Unplug the crankshaft position sensor harness connec-
tor from the engine wire harness.
3. Remove the two screws (1, Figure 99) and washers
Battery Requirements (2), then lift the clamp (3) from the flywheel cover.
4. Pull the crankshaft position sensor (4, Figure 99) from
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) models use significantly
the cover. Clean debris or contaminants from the sensor
more electrical components than carburetor equipped
opening in the cover.
models. This places an additional burden on the battery,
especially while starting. If the battery is weak or of insuf- 5. Insert the replacement sensor into the cover opening.
ficient capacity, the engine may start slowly of not at all. Fit the clamp over the sensor, then thread the screws and
The electrical systems on FFI models must have a stable washers into the clamp and cover. Do not tighten the
battery voltage supply. A fault with the battery and con- screws at this time.
necting cables can cause operational problems. To reduce 6. Locate the slot in the flywheel cover that aligns with
the chance of having a battery related problems, use only a the sensor. Rotate the flywheel to align one of the encoder
battery that meets or exceeds the minimum requirements ribs with the tip of the sensor (Figure 100).
and perform battery maintenance at regular intervals as 7. Insert the a feeler gauge into the slot (Figure 101), then
described in Chapter Seven. lightly push the sensor to capture the feeler gauge between
1. Screw 9. Washer
2. Washer 10. Stator
3. Clamp 11. Plastic locking
4. Crankshaft position clamp
sensor 12. Wire grommet
5. Flywheel cover 13. Flywheel bolt
6. Bushing 14. Bolt
7. Flywheel 15. Timing pointer
8. Bolt 16. Screw
662 SUPPLEMENT
the sensor and encoder rib. Hold the sensor in position, subtract shims (9, Figure 102) from between the sensor
then securely tighten the clamp screws. and spacer to achieve the recommended clearance.
a. 1997-1999 models-Use a 0.050 in. (1.27 mm) 9. Observe the sensor tip and encoder ribs while slowly
feeler gauge. rotating the flywheel. The ribs should not contact the sen-
b. 2000-2002 models-Use a 0.045 in. (1.14 mm) sor at any point. If contact occurs, check for an improperly
feeler gauge. installed sensor or flywheel. Flywheel replacement is de-
8. Remove the feeler gauge, then observe the sensor tip scribed in Chapter Seven.
and encoder ribs while slowly rotating the flywheel. The 10. Plug the crankshaft position sensor connector into the
ribs must not contact the sensor at any point. If contact oc- engine wire harness connector. Route the wiring to pre-
curs, check for an improperly installed sensor or flywheel. vent interference with moving components.
Flywheel replacement as described in Chapter Seven. 11. Connect the battery cables.
9. Insert a feeler gauge into the slot to verify the air gap
setting. The air gap (clearance) is equal to the thickness of Stator Replacement
feeler gauge that passes between the sensor tip and the rib
with a slight drag. If the air gap is not within the specifica- Refer to Figure 99 or Figure 102 as appropriate for this
tion in Table 13, loosen the screws and reposition the sen- procedure.
sor to achieve the recommended gap. 1. Disconnect the battery cable to prevent accidental
10. Plug the crankshaft position sensor harness connector starting.
into the engine wire harness. Route the wiring to prevent
interference with moving components.
11. Reconnect the battery cables. @
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
(200 and 225 hp)
A single screw secures the crankshaft position sensor

and spacer onto the power head. Remove the flywheel to
access the screw. Refer to Figure 102 for this procedure.
starting.
2. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven.
3. Unplug the crankshaft position sensor harness connec-
tor from the engine wire harness connector.
4. Remove the bolt (7, Figure 102), then lift the sensor
(8), shim (9) and spacer (10) from the power head. Clean position sensor
all corrosion or other contaminants fiom the sensor
mount.
5. Fit the sensor and shim the sensor onto the power head.
Align the openings, then thread the screw through the sen-
sor, shim, spacer and into the power head. Securely
tighten the screw.
6. Install the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven.
7. Manually rotate the flywheel to align one of the en-
coder ribs with the tip of the sensor.
8. Check the sensor to encoder rib air gap by inserting a
feeler gauge between the tip of the sensor and the rib. The
clearance is equal to the thickness of the feeler gauge that
passes between the sensor tip and the rib with a slight
drag. If the air gap is not within the specificationin Table
13, remove the sensor as described in Steps 2-4. Add or
II 1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 663
2. 90-1 75 hp-Remove the crankshaft position sensor phase with the stator coils. Operatingwith the stator out of
and throttle position sensor as described in this section. phase may result in low stator output.
Remove the cover bolts (14, Figure 99), then lift the cover 7. Remove the stator mounting bolts and washers (8 and
(5) from the power head. Retrieve the bushing (6, Figure 9, Figure 99 or 5 and 6, Figure 102).
99) from the cover. 8. Lift the stator fi-omthe power head. If necessary, care-
3. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven of
fully pry the stator from the mount. To prevent damage to
the main body of the manual.
the stator, use a blunt tip pry bar and avoid contact with
4. Note the routing and terminal connection points, then
the coil windings..
disconnect the stator wires fi-om the rectifierlregulator or
engine management module (EMM). 9. Use a wire brush and appropriate thread chaser to re-
5. Remove the plastic locking clamp (11, Figure 99 or 3, move the threadloclung compound fi-omthe stator screws
Figure 102) fkom the stator wires. and the threaded openings in the power head.
6. Make a sketch indicatingthe stator wire harness orien- 10. Fit the stator onto the power head with the wire har-
tation on the power head. The mounting screw orientation ness orientated as noted in Step 4. Rotate the stator
may allow stator installationwith the wiring facing in two enough to align the mounting screw openings.
or more directions. Incorrect installation may prevent cor- 11. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock to the stator
rect wire routing and place the flywheel magnets out of mounting screw threads. Install the washers, then thread
the screws into the stator and power head. Tighten the
screws in a crossing pattern to the specification in Table
14.
12. Connect the stator wires to the respective terminal on
STATOR AND FLYWHEEL the rectifierlregulator or EMM. To assist with connection
(200 AND 225 HP MODELS) points, refer to the wiring diagrams located at the end of
the manual. Route the wiring to prevent interference with
moving components.
13. Install the flywheel as described in Chapter Seven.
14. 90-175 hpInstal1 the pivot shaft bushing (6, Figure
99) into the opening, then mount the flywheel cover (5)
onto the power head. Install then tighten the cover bolts
(14, Figure 99) to 40-50 in.-lb. (4.5-5.6 N-m). Instal1 the
crankshaft position sensor and throttle position sensor as
described in this section.
Engine Control Unit (ECU) or

Engine Management Module (EMM) Replacement
This section describes replacement instructions for the

engine mounted microprocessor. The microprocessor
1. Nut used on 1997-1999 models is referred to as the ECU. The
2. Flywheel
microprocessor used on 2000-2002 models is referred to
3. Plastic locking type
clamp as the EMM. Although similar in appearance, they func-
4. Stator tion differently and are not interchangeable. The ECU or
5. Bolt EMM used on 90-1 15 hp models mounts to the top of the
6. Washer power head and to the rear of the flywheel. The ECU or
7. Bolt
EMM used on 200 and 225 hp models mounts on the up-
8. Crankshaft position
sensor per rear of the power head. Refer to Figures 103-107 as
9. Shim@) appropriate for this procedure.
10. Spacer 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
starting.
664 SUPPLEMENT
ECU, RECTIFIER/REGULATOR IGNITION COILS

AND IGNITION MODULE
(150 AND 175 HP MODELS [I997 AND 19981)
1. Rubber boot 16. Ignition modulelbracket

2. Screw 17. Primary coil leads
3. Washer 18. Screw
5. Sleeve 20. Suppressor module
6. Bolt 21. Shield
7. Capacitor clamp 22. Washer
8. Engine control unit (ECU) 23. Double coil unit
9. Screw 24. Suppressor*
10. Washer 25. Rectifierlregulator cover
11. Recifierlregulatorcover 26. Ignition coiUmodule cover
12. Terminal nut 27. Screw
13. Washer 28. Screw
14. Regulatorlrectifier 29. Lock washer
15. Seal 30. Plain washer
Used only on models with rectifierlregulator part No. 586253
ECU, RECTIFIERIREGULATOR AND IGNITION COILS

(90.1 15 HP MODELS [ I998 AND 19991AND
150-175 HP MODELS [1999])
1. Bolt 19. Washer

2. Capacitor clamp 20. Screw
3. Screw 21. Spark plug lead
4. Washer 22. Coil mounting bolt
6. Plastic locking clamp 24. Double coil unit
7. Cooling water hose 25. Washer
(to top fitting on ECU) 26. Spark plug lead
8. Engine control unit (ECU) 27. Washer
9. Screw 28. Coil mounting bracket
10. Rectifierlregulator cover 29. Single coil unit
11. Terminal nut 30. Double coil unit
12. Washer 31. Bolt
13. Screw 32. Washer
14. Seal 33. Ignition coil components
15. Rectifierlregulator (90-1 15 hp [V-41)
16. Rectifierlregulator cover 34. Ignition coil mounting components
17. Sleeve (150-175 hp [V-61)
18. Grommet
666 SUPPLEMENT
1. Bolt 11. Filter module 23. Coil mounting 31. Washer

2. Nut 12. Spark plug lead bracket 32. Screw
3. Washer 13. Bolt 24. Filter module 33. Capacitor mounting
4. Bolt 14. Washer 25. Wedge bracket
5. Washer 15. Doulbe coil unit 26. Seal 34. Capacitor clamp
6. Grommet 16. Washer 27. Cooling water hose 35. Ignition coil and
7. Sleeve 17. Single coil unit (to side fitting on EMM) filter module components
8. Double ended 18. Double coil unit 28. Plastic locking (150 and 175 hp IV-61)
bolt 19. Screw clamp 36. lgnition coil and
9. Bolt 20. Washer 29. Engine management filter components
10. EMM mounttwater 21. Spark plug lead module (EMM) (90-115 hp [V-41)
jacket cover 22. Washer 30. Grommet
ECU, RECTIFIERIREGULATOR AND IGNITION COILS

(200 AND 225 H P MODELS [1999])
1. Cooling water hose 18. Cooling water hose

(to side fitting ECU) (to bottom fitting on ECU)
2. Rectifierlregulator cover 19. Washer
3. Bolt 20. Double coil unit
4. Washer 21. Bolt
5. Terminal nut 22. Washer
6. Rectifierlregulator cover 23. Single coil unit
7. Terminal nut 24. Spark plug lead
8. Washer 25. Engine control unit
9. Rectifierlregulator 26. Washer
10. Bolt 27. Bolt
11. Seal 28. Start assist transformer
12. Bolt 29. Bolt
13. Adapter 30. 20 amp fuse
14. Seal 31. Bolt
15. Sleeve 32. Capacitor clamp
16. Grommet 33. Plastic locking
17. Plastic locking clamp clamp
668 SUPPLEMENT
EMM, FILTER MODULE AND IGNITION COILS

(200 AND 225 HP MODELS [2000-20021)
1. Cooling water hose 9. Bolt

(to top fitting on EMM) 10. Washer
2. Plastic locking 11. Single coil unit
clamp 12. Spark plug lead
3. Sleeve 13. Engine management
4. Grommet module (EMM)
5. Plastic locking 14. Washer
clamp 15. Bolt
6. Cooling water hose 16. Filter module
(to bottomfitting on EMM) 17. Bolt
7. Double coil unit 18. Bolt
8. Washer 19. Capacitor clamp
2. Unplug the engine wire harness connectors from the bending or damaging the terminal pins. Never force the
ECU or EMM. Disconnect the exhaust pressure hose from connector into the opening.
the ECU or EMM fitting. 18. Connect the exhaust pressure hose onto the ECU or
3. Remove the screw then pull the capacitor fiom the EMM fittings. Secure the hose with a suitable clamp.
clamp. 19. Connect the battery cables.
4. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)--Carefully pry the 20. Start the engine and immediately check for water
rubber boots (1, Figure 103,) from the four ECU mount- leakage from the hose connections. Correct any water
ing bolts. leakage before putting the engine into service.
5A. 90-115 hp (1998 and 1999) and 150-175 hp
(1999)-Remove the plastic locking clamp (6, Figure
104), then pull the water hose (7) fiom the fitting on the Rectifier/Regulator Replacement
top of the ECU.
The rectifierlregulatormounts onto the top of the power
5B. 90-1 75 hp (2000-2002)-Remove the plastic locking
head and to the rear of the flywheel. This component is
clamp (28, Figure 105), then pull the water hose (27)
used on 1997-1999 models. Refer to Figures 103-106 for
from the fitting on the side top of the EMM.
this procedure.
5C. 200 and 225 h p R e m o v e the plastic locking clamp
(33, Figure 106 or 2, Figure 107), then pull the water
starting.
hose (1) from the fitting on the port side of the ECU or
2. 90-175 h p R e m o v e the engine control unit (ECU) as
EMM.
described in this section.
6. 200 and 225 hp (1999)-Remove the start assist trans-
former (28, Figure 106) as described in t h s section. 3. 200 and 225 hp-Remove the flywheel as described in
7. 200 and 225 hp (2000-2002)-Remove the filter mod- Chapter Seven.
ule (16, Figure 107)as described in this section. 4. Remove the two plastic covers (11 and 25, Figure 103,
8. Remove the mounting screws, washers, grommets and typical) to access the rectifierlregulator terminals.
sleeves. 5. Make a sketch indicating the wire routing and connec-
9. Lift the ECU or EMM enough to remove the plastic tion points onto the rectifierlregulator. Disconnect all
clamp and the water hose from the fitting on the bottom of wires fiom the rectifierlregulatorterminals.
the ECU or EMM. 6. Remove the four screws and washers, then lift the rec-
10. Remove the ECU or EMM from the power head. tifierlregulator (15, Figure 104, typical) from the power
Clean all contaminants from the mounting surfaces. head or adapter (200 and 225 hp models).
11. Except 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Attach the 7. Remove the seal (11, Figure 106, typical) fiom the
cooling water hose to the upper or port side fitting on the rectifierlregulatoror adapter. Discard the seal.
ECU or EMM. Secure the hose with a plastic locking 8. Clean all corrosion or other contamination from the
clamp. rectifierlregulatorheat sink fins, mating surfaces and wa-
12. Fit the sleeve and grommets into the mount openings ter j acket opening.
in the ECU or EMM. Hold the ECU or EMM in position 9. Install a new seal onto the rectifierlregulator. Guide the
while threadmg the mounting screw and washer through heat sink fins into the waterjacket opening while lowering
the sleeves and into the power head. Do not forget to at- the rectifierlregulator onto the power head. Ensure the
tach any ground wires that attach to the mounting screws. O-ring or seal is positioned properly, then seat the recti-
Tighten the smaller diameter mounting screws to 24-36 fierlregulator onto the power head.
in.-lb. (2.7-4.0 N-m) and the larger diameter mounting 10. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock onto the
screws to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N-m). threads, then thread the four screws and washer into the
13. 200 and 225 hp (2000-2002)-Install the filter mod- rectifierlregulator and power head. Tighten the screws
ule as described in this section. evenly to the following specification.
14. 200 and 225 hp (1999)-Install the start assist trans- a. 90-115 hp-Tighten the screws to 96-120 in.-lb.
former as described in this section. (10.8-13.6 N.m).
15. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Press the rubber b. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Tighten the
boots onto the four ECU mounting bolts. screws to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N.m.).
16. Slip the capacitor into the clamp. Install the screw c. 150 and 225 hp (1999)-Tighten the screws to
into the clamp and tighten to 24-36 in.-lb. (2.7-4.0 N.m). 96-120 in.-lb. (10.8-13.6 N-m.).
17. Carefully plug the engine wire harness connectors 11. Connect the engine harness and stator wires onto their
into the ECU or EMM terminals. Work carefully to avoid respective rectifierlregulator terminals. To assist with
SUPPLEMENT
connection points, refer to the wiring diagrams located at 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
the end of the manual. Securely tighten the terminal nuts. starting.
Route the wiring to prevent interference with moving 2. Locate the filter module on the engine harness where it
components. passes next to the engine management module (29, Fig-
12. Fit the plastic covers onto the rectifierlregulator. En- ure 105).
sure the tabs on the covers engage the bosses on the recti-
3. Unplug the filter module harness connectors from the
fierlregulator.
engine wire harness connectors.
13. 200 and 225 hp-Install the flywheel as described in
Chapter Seven. 4. Remove the plastic locking type clamps, then lift the
14. 90-1 75 h p I n s t a l l the ECU as described in t h s sec- module fkom the harness.
tion. 5. Secure the module onto the harness with two plastic
15. Connect the battery cables. locking clamps.
16. Start the engine and immediately check for water 6. Plug the module harness connector into the engine
leakage from the rectifierlregulator to power head mating wire harness connector. Route the wiring to prevent inter-
surface. Correct any water leakage before putting the en- ference with moving components.
gine into service. 7. Connect the battery cables.
Start Assist Transformer Replacement

(200 and 225 hp [1999]) Filter Module Replacement
(200 and 225 hp models [2000-20021)
The start assist transformer is used on 1999 200 hp and
225 hp models. Two screws secure the transformer to the Screws or plastic locking clamps secure the filter mod-
rear of the engine control unit (ECU). Refer to Figure 106 ule to the rear of the engine management module (EMM)
for this procedure. or onto the engine wire harness.
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
starting. starting.
2. Unplug the engine wire harness connector from the
start assist transformer harness. 2. Unplug the engine wire harness connector from the fil-
3. Remove the two bolts (29, Figure 106), then lift the ter module harness.
transformer (28) from the ECU. 3. Trace the black filter module wire to the terminal on
4. Remove the fuse (30, Figure 106) from the trans- the starter solenoid. Remove the solenoid screw to discon-
former harness. Inspect the fuse for a blown condition or nect the black wire terminal.
corroded contacts. Replace the fuse as necessary. 4. Remove the two bolts (17, Figure 107), or hose
5. Fit the start assist transformer onto the ECU. clamps used on 2000-2002 models, then lift the filter
6. Apply a light coating or OMC Nut Lock to the threads, module (16) from the power head.
then thread the two mounting screws into the transformer 5A. 2000 models-Fit the replacement filter module onto
and ECU. Tighten the screws evenly to 60-80 in.-lb. the E M . Apply a light coating or OMC Nut Lock to the
(6.8-9.0 N-m). threads, then thread the two mounting screws into the fil-
7. Plug the engine wire harness connector onto the trans- ter module and E M . Tighten the screws evenly to 60-80
former harness connector. Route the wiring to prevent in- in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N.m.).
terference with moving components.
5B. 2001 and 2002 models-Secure the filter module to
the wire harness with plastic locking clamps.
6. Route the black filter module wire to the starter sole-
Filter Module Replacement noid. Fit the black wire terminal over the screw, then in-
(90-175 hp models [2000-20021) stall and securely tighten the starter solenoid mounting
screw.
Two plastic locking clamps secure the filter module to
the engine wire harness. The filter module used on V-4 7. Plug the engine wire harness connector into the filter
models is different from the filter used on V-6 models. Al- module harness connector. Route the wiring to prevent in-
though they perform the same function, they are not inter- terference with moving components.
changeable. Refer to Figure 105 for this procedure. 8. Connect the battery cables.
Capacitor Replacement the tab on the suppressor. Route the wiring to prevent in-
terference with moving components.
A clamp and screw secure the capacitor onto the port 8. Connect the battery cables.
side of the engine control unit (ECU) or engine manage-
ment module (EMM). Refer to Figures 103-107 for this
procedure. Ignition Coil Replacement
Refer to Figures 103-107 as appropriate for this proce-
starting.
dure.
2. Remove the screw, then pull the capacitor from the 1. Disconnect the battery cable to prevent accidental
clamp (7, Figure 103, typical).
starting.
3. Disconnect the engine wire harness connectors from 2. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Remove the six
the capacitor. screws (27, Figure 103), then pull the plastic cover (26)
4. Connect the engine wire harness connectors to the ca- from the rear of the power head.
pacitor terminals, then carefully slip the capacitor into the 3. Unplug the spark plug lead(s) and primary wire lead(s)
clamp. from the coil towers. Remove the screws and washers,
5. Move or relocate any hoses or wiring that may become then pull the coil from the power head or mounting
pinched between the clamp and the capacitor. bracket.
6. Install the screw into the clamp and tighten to 24-36 4. Clean all corrosion from the coil mating surfaces and
in.-lb. (2.7-4.0 N-m). threaded openings for the mounting screws.
7. Route the wiring to prevent interference with moving 5. Install the washer between the coil and the mating sur-
components. face. Install the coil onto the power head or mounting
8. Connect the battery cables. bracket.
6. Thread the mounting screws and washers into the coil
Suppressor Replacement and the mounting surface. Tighten the two screws evenly
to 50-95 in.-lb. (5.6-10.7 N-m).
The suppressor is used on 1997 and 1998 150 hp and 7. Plug the spark plug lead(s) and primary lead(s) into the
175 hp models. Two screws secure the suppressor to the coil towers.
bracket on the starboard side and rear of the power head. 8. 150 and 175hp (1997 and 1998)-Fit the plastic cover
Later 1998models using regulator part No. 586253 use an onto the rear of the power head and secure with the six
additional suppressor. The additional suppressor is lo- screws.
cated within a pouch fitted in a harness connecting to the 9. Connect the battery cables.
rectifierlregulatorterminals. Refer to Figure 103 for this
procedure. Water In Fuel Sensor Replacement
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental (150 and 175 hp [I997 and 19981)
starting.
2. Unplug the engine wire harness connector fiom the WARNING
suppressor (20, Figure 103). Use extreme caution when working with the
3. Remove the two screws (18, Figure 103) and washers fuel system. Fuel can spray out under high
(19), then lift the suppressor from the mounting bracket. pressure. Always use required safety gear:
Never smoke or perform any test around an
4. Clean any corrosion, old threadlocking compound or
openflame or other source of ignition.Fuel
other contaminants from the mating surfaces and threaded and/or vapor can ignite or explode, result-
openings. ing in injury or death.
5. Install the replacement suppressor to the mounting
bracket. The water in fuel sensor threads into the bottom of the
6. Apply a light coating or OMC Nut Lock to the mount- water separating fuel filter. The water separating fuel fil-
ing screw threads. Fit the suppressor black wire terminal ter is located on the rear and port side of the power head.
over one of the mounting screws, then thread the screws Refer to Figure 84 for this procedure.
into the suppressor and mounting bracket. Tighten the 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
screws evenly to 60-80 in.-lb. (6.8-9.0 N-m). starting.
7. Plug the engine wire harness connector into the 2. Disconnect the engine harness wire from the sensor
suppressor. Make sure the tab on the connector locks onto terminal.
SUPPLEMENT
3. Use a suitable oil filter wrench to remove the water 7. Apply a light coating or two-cycle outboard oil to the
separating fuel filter (56, Figure 84). Clean all corrosion surfaces, then install a new O-ring onto the sensor. Seat
or contaminants &omthe filter to bracket mating surfaces. the O-ring on the step of the sensor.
4. Empty the filter into a container suitable for holding 8. Carefully insert the sensor tip into the housing. The tab
fuel. on the sensor connector must face toward the power head.
5. Unthread the water in fuel sensor (55, Figure 84) from Seat the sensor onto the housing.
the bottom of the filter. 9. Fit the retainer onto the sensor and housing surfaces.
6. Test the water in fuel sensor as described in the Chap- Install and securely tighten the two screws to secure the
ter Three section of this Supplement. retainer and sensor.
7. Thread the sensor into the filter. Do not use sealing
compound on the threads. Sealant on the threads may pre- Engine Temperature Switch Replacement
vent the sensor from grounding properly to the filter.
8. Apply a light coating of two-cycle outboard oil to the The engine temperature switch (Figure 108) is de-
filter sealing ring, then thread the filter onto the bracket. signed to switch on at a predetermined temperature and
Tighten the filter using a suitable oil filter wrench. Do not switch off at a slightly lower temperature. This switch sig-
over-tighten the filter. Over-tightening will damage the nals the engine control unit (ECU) or engine management
filter. module (EMM) that the engine is overheating. The body
9. Tighten the water in fuel sensor after installing the fil- of the switch must make good contact to ground and will
ter. not operate properly if this connection is faulty. The
10. Observe the filter and sensor for he1 leakage while tadblue wire of the switch connects via the harness to the
squeezing the primer bulb. Correct any fuel leakage be- ECU or EMM. The switch is located on the starboard cyl-
fore attempting to start the engine. inder head and near the No. 1 cylinder spark plug opening.
CAUTION
Water In Fuel Sensor Replacement Do not confuse the engine temperature
(90-115 hp [1998-20021 switch with the engine temperature sensor:
and 150-225 hp [1999-20021) The engine temperature switch is located on
the starboard cylinder head. A single tan or
WARNING tanhlue wire connects the engine tempera-
Use extreme caution when working with the ture switch to the engine wire harness. The
fuel system. Fuel can spray out under high engine temperature sensor is located on the
pressure. Always use required safety gear: port cylinder head. A pinkhlack and black
Never smoke or perform any test around an wire connect the engine temperature sensor
openflame or other source of ignition. Fuel to the engine wire harness.
ing in injury or death. 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
starting.
The water in fuel sensor fits into an opening in the water 2. Unplug the tan or tadblue switch wire from the engine
separating fuel filter housing. It is not necessary to re- wire harness connector.
move the filter to replace the sensor. Refer to Figure 86 or
Figure 87 as appropriate for this procedure.
starting.
2. Unplug the engine harness wire from the sensor termi-
nal.
3. Remove the two screws (1, Figure 86, typical), then
pull the retainer (2) from the housing.
4. Grip the harness connector (3, Figure 86, typical),
then pull the sensor fiom the housing.
5. Remove the O-ring (6, Figure 86, typical) from the
sensor. Discard the O-ring.
6. Test the water in fuel sensor as described in the Chap-
ter Three section of this Supplement.
3. Carefully grip the rubber portion of the sensor with 3. Carefully grip the cover with needle nose pliers, then
needle nose pliers. Gently rock the sensor while carefully pull it from the sensor and opening. Pull the sensor from
pulling it from the cylinder head opening. the cylinder head opening.
4. Test the engine temperature switch as described in the 4. Test the sensor resistance as described in the Chapter
Chapter Three section of this Supplement. Three section of this Supplement.
5. Clean all debris from the switch opening in the cylin- 5. Clean all debris from the sensor opening in the cylin-
der head. Then, carefully press the switch into the open- der head. Then, carefully press the switch into the open-
ing. The tip of the switch must contact the bottom of the ing. The tip of the switch must contact the bottom of the
opening. opening. Push the cover over the sensor and into the open-
6. Plug the tan or tadblue wire into the engine wire har- ing. Seat the cover to hold the sensor in the opening.
ness connection. Route the wiring to prevent interference 6. Plug the pinkhlack and black wire connector into the
with moving components. engine wire harness connection. Route the wiring to pre-
7. Connect the battery cables. vent interference with moving components.
Engine Temperature Sensor Replacement
The engine temperature sensor (Figure 109) is located Air Temperature Sensor Replacement
on the port cylinder head and near the No. 4 or No. 6 cylin-
der spark plug opening. The sensor resistance changes Two bosses secure the air temperature sensor to the si-
with the engine temperature to provide input to the engine lencer cover. Refer to Figure 110 or Figure 111for this
control unit (ECU) or engine management module procedure.
(EMM). 1. Disconnect the battery cable to prevent accidental
starting.
CA UTION 2A. 90-175 hp-Release the elastic straps (5, Figure
Do not confuse the engine temperature sen- 110), then pull the silencer cover away from the intake
sor with the engine temperature switch. E3e manifold.
engine temperature sensor is located on the
port cylinder head. A pink5lack and black 2B. 200 and 225 hp-Remove the two plastic thumb
wire connect the engine temperature sensor screws (1, Figure 111) and washers (2), then pull the si-
to the engine wire harness. The overheat lencer cover (3) away from the intake manifold.
switch is located on the starboard cylinder 3. Unplug the engine harness connector from the air tem-
head. A single tan or tanblue wire connects perature sensor.
the engine temperature switch to the engine 4. Rotate the sensor to disengage the sensor from the
wire harness. bosses, then pull the air temperature sensor from the si-
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental lencer 'Over.
starting. 5. Fit the replacement air temperature sensor into its si-
2 . unplug the pink/black and black temperature sen- lencer Cover opening. Rotate the Sensor to position the
sor wire connector from the engine wire harness con- bosses over the ends of the sensor. Tug on the sensor to
nector. verify a secure fit to the silencer cover.
6. Plug the engine harness connector into the sensor con-
nector. Ensure the tab on the harness connector engages
the tab on the sensor. Tug the connectionto verify a secure
connection.
7. Fit the silencer cover onto the intake manifold. Ensure
the throttle body seals fit into the openings in the cover.
Check for pinch wiring or hoses before installing the
cover fasteners.
8A. 90-175 hp-Secure the silencer cover to the intake
manifold with the elastic straps.
8B. 200 and 225 hp-Secure the silencer cover to the in-
take manifold with the two plastic screws.
674 SUPPLEMENT
SILENCER COVER AND

AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
(90-1 75 HP MODELS)
1. Silencer cover
2. Throttle body bolt
3. Air temperature sensor
4. Throttle body seal
6 3
5. Elastic strap
6. Throttle body
SILENCER COVER AND

AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1. Plastic thumb screw

2. Washer
3. Silencer cover
4. Throttle body seal
5. Air temperature sensor
6. Throttle body bolt
7. Nut
8. Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor Replacement throttle cam (6, Figure 113) that operates the throttle
shutters.
On 90-175 hp models, the throttle position sensor 5. Thread the two mounting screws into the sensor and
mounts to the flywheel cover on the upper starboard side cover or mounting bracket. Verify proper engagement of
of the power head. On 200 and 225 hp models, the throttle the-sensor lever with the throttle lever or arm, then se-
position sensor mounts to an intake manifold bracket on curely tighten the sensor mounting screws.
the fi-ont of the power head and just below the flywheel. 6. Plug the engine wire harness connector onto the sensor
The sensor arm contacts and moves along with the throttle connector. Ensure the tab on the connector engages the tab
shaft or lever that operates the throttle shutters. Refer to on the sensor. Tug on the connector to verify a secure con-
Figure 112 or Figure 113 as appropriate for this proce- nection.
dure. 7. Connect the battery cables.
starting.
Shift Interrupt Switch Replacement
2. Unplug the engine harness connector from the throttle
position sensor. Two locking tabs on the retainer secure the shift inter-
3. Remove the two screws, then lift the sensor fiom the rupt switch to the pivoting bracket. The bracket mounts on
flywheel cover or intake manifold bracket. the lower starboard side of the power head. A shift inter-
4. Fit the replacement throttle position sensor onto the rupt switch is not used on four-cylinder models. Refer to
flywheel cover or intake manifold bracket. Ensure the Figure 114 or Figure 115 as appropriate for this proce-
sensor arm contacts the throttle lever (8, Figure 112) or dure.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

(90-175 MODELS)
I . Screw
2. Throttle position sensor
3. Cap
4. Screw
5. Sensor retainer
6. Linkage retainer
7. Screw
8. Throttle lever
9. Throttle linkage
10. Flywheel cover
11. Shaft
12. Throttle arm
676 SUPPLEMENT
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

1. Screw
2. Cap
3. Throttle position sensor
4. Pivot bolt
5. Washer
6. Throttle cam
7. Screw
8. Sensor mounting bracket
9. Intake manifold
10. Washer
/
7 /
SHIFT INTERUPT SWITCH
1
'.
1. Cotter pin
10 ' I 2.
3.
4.
Washer
Shift linkage
Cotter pin
5. Washer
6. Switch lever1
4 switch bracket
7. Bushing
8. Washer
9. Shoulder screw
10. Slider
11. Spring
12. 'Switch retainer
13. Shift interupt switch
14. Pivot pin
SHIFT INTERUPT SWITCH

1
0
.I (200 AND 225 HP MODELS)
2 1 qK10 1. Pin
2. Swivel lever1
switch bracket
9 3. Slider
4. Spring
5. Shift interupt switch
6. Retainer
7. Plastic locking
clamp
8. Shaft
9. Washer
10. Bushing
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental 4. Depress the switch plunger, then carefully snap the
starting. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL. switch into the retainer. If the plunger does not contact the
2. Remove the wedge, then unplug the engine wire har- slider, remove and reposition the switch.
ness connector from the interrupt switch wire connector. 5. Plug the engine wire harness connector onto the switch
3. Carefully pry the locking tabs away from the switch harness connector. Route the wiring to prevent interfer-
body, then pull the switch from the bracket. Work care- ence with moving components. Secure the wiring with
fully to avoid dislodging the spring or breaking the switch plastic locking clamps if needed.
retainer. 6. Connect the battery cables.
Table 13 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AIR GAP SPECIFICATIONS

Model Air gap
90-175 hp (1997-1999) 0.045-0.055 in. (1.1-1.4 mm)

90-175 hp (2000-2002) 0.035-0.055 in. (0.9-1.4 mm)
200 and 225 hp / 0.040-0.080 in. (1 .O-2.0 mm)
1 Table 14 ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION TORQUE VALUES

Fastener 1 in.-lb. ft.-lb. Nem
Capacitor clamp screw 24-36 - 2.7-4.0
Large screws
Small screws
I1
Engine control u it
60-80
24-36
-
-
6.8-90
2.7-4.0
Engine manageTent module
Large screws 60-80 - 6.8-90
Small screws 24-36 - 2.7-4.0
(continued)
678 SUPPLEMENT
Table 14 ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION TORQUE VALUES (continued)

Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. N*m
Filter module 60-80 - 6.8-90
Flywheel cover 40-50 - 4.5-5.6
Ignition coil 50-95 - 5.6-10.7
Rectifierlregulator
90-115 hp 96120 - 10.8-13.6
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998) 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
150-225 hp (1999) 96-120 - 10.8-13.6
Start assist transformer 60-80 6.8-9.0
Stator 25-35 - 2.8-4.0
Suppressor 60-80 - 6.8-9.0
SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER ELEVEN
OIL INJECTION SYSTEM
This section describes replacement instructions for the phragm oil pump is non-serviceable. Replace the oil
oil injection system components unique to Ficht Fuel In- pump if low oil pressure is evident and all other causes are
jection (FFI) models. Always bleed air fiom the oil sys- ruled out. Refer to Figures 116-118 for this procedure.
tem after servicing the oil injection system. Air bleeding 1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental
procedures are described at the end of this section. To as- starting.
sist with component identification and orientation, refer 2. Remove the screw, then disconnect the tadwhite wire
to following: fiom the oil pressure switch.
1. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Refer to Figure 3. Note the hose routing and connection points, then dis-
116. connect the oil inlet, oil outlet and the exposed pulse hose
2. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-175 hp fiom the diaphragm oil pump. Promptly clean up any
(1999-2002)-Refer to Figure 117. spilled oil. Plug disconnected hoses to prevent contamina-
3. 200 and 225 hp--Refer to Figure 118. tion and excess oil spillage.
CAUTZON 4. Remove the four screws that secure the diaphragm oil
Always bleed airfiom the system after ser- pump to the intake manifold or mounting bracket. Pull the
vicing the oil injection system. Operating pump away fiom the power head enough to access the
the engine with air in the system may result pulse hose. Remove the clamp, then pull the pulse hose(s)
in inadequate lubrication and failure of in- fiom the pump fittings. Remove the pump. Drain residual
temalpower head components. oil fiom the pump.
5. Remove the oil pressure switch as described in this
Diaphragm Oil Pump Replacement section.
6. Connect the pulse hose(s) to the respective pump fit-
The mounting location for the diaphragm oil pump tings, then fit the replacement pump onto the intake mani-
(Figure 119) will vary by model. On 90-175 hp models, fold or mounting bracket. Do not pinch any hoses between
the oil pump is located on the fiont of the power head and the pump and the mount.
just below the flywheel. On 200 and 225 hp models, the 7. Thread the four mounting screws into the pump and
pump is located just below the power distribution panel mount. Tighten the four screws in a crossing pattern to
cover on the starboard side of the power head. The dia- 45-55 in.-lb. (5.0-6.2 N-m).
I 1997-2002 FICHT FUEL INJECTION SERVICE INFORMATION 679

i

(150 AND 175 HP MODELS [I997 AND 19981)
13
15
16
1. Clamp 10. Plastic locking 19. Clear oil hose (oil 30. Outlet fitting
2. Inlet oil hose (from clamp distribution manifold 31. O-rings (black)
on-board oil reservoir) 11. Protective sleeve to check valve) 32. Connetor (outlet
3. Screw clamp (pulse hose) 20. Plastic locking fitting)
4. Plastic locking 12. Screw clamp 33. Screw clamp
clamp 13. Diaphragm oil 21. Electric oil pump and 34. Oil hose (electric
5. Pulse hose (to Pump distribution manifold oil pump to oil
starboard facing pump 14. Oil pressure switch 22. Pump brace pressure regulator)
fitting) 15. Screw clamp 23. O-ring (brown) 35. Screw clamp
6. Plastic locking 16. Outlet oil hose (to 24. Inlet fitting 36. Oil pressure
clamp electric oil pump) 25. O-rings (brown) regulator
7. Intake manifold fitting 17. Clear oil hose (check 26. Connector (inlet fitting) 37. Screw clamp
8. Plastic locking valve to intake manifold 27. Screw clamp
38. Oil hose (oil pressure
clamp fitting) 28. Retaining clip regulator to on-board
9. Pulse hose (to port 18. Check valve 29. O-ring (black) oil reservoir)
facing pump fitting) 39. Screw clamp
I 680 SUPPLEMENT

(90-115 HP MODELS [I
998-2002] AND 150-175 HP MODELS [I
999-2002])
1. Intake manifold fitting 14. Plastic locking 24. Retainer 35. Bolt
(pulse hose) clamp 25. Electric oil pump 36. Oil pump bracket
2. Plastic locking 15. O-rings (black) 26. Rubber bumper 37. Nut
clamp 16. Outlet fitting 27. Plastic locking 38. Nut
3. Pulse hose 17. Plastic locking clamp 39. Oil inlet hose
4. Bolt clamp 28. Oil hose (to (from on-board
5. Oil pressure switch 18. Oil hose (electric oil check valve) oil reservoir)
6. Screw pump to oil pressure 29. Plastic locking 40. Plastic locking
7. Plastic locking regulator) clamp clamp
clamp 19. Plastic locking 30. Check valve 41. Plastic locking
8. Outlet oil hose clamp 31. Plastic locking clamp
(to electric oil pump) 20. Oil pressure regulator clamp 42. Plastic locking
9. Plastic locking 21. Plastic locking 32. Oil hose (check clamp
clamp clamp valve to diaphragm 43. Pulse hose
10. Inlet fitting 22. Oil hose (oil pressure fuel pump) 44. Plastic locking
11. O-rings (brown) regulator to on-board 33. Plastic locking clamp
12. Plastic locking oil reservoir) clamp 45. Intake manifold
type clamp 23. Plastic locking 34. Protective sleeve fitting (pulse hose)
13. Clear oil hose (to clamp (oil hose)
intake manifold fitting)

1. Screw 14. Clear oil hose (to 23. Oil inlet fitting
2. Bracket intake manifold 24. O-rings (brown)
3. Nuts fitting) 25. Retainer
4. Oil pressure switch 15. Plastic locking 26. Electric oil pump
5. Diaphragm oil clamp 27. Plastic locking
Pump 16. O-rings (black) clamp
6. Plastic locking 17. Outlet fitting 28. Oil hose (from
clamp 18. Plastic locking check valve)
7. Pulse hose (upper) clamp 29. Plastic locking
8. Inlet oil hose (from 19. Oil hose (to clamp
on-board oil reservior) oil pressure 30. Check valve
9. Screw clamp regulator) 31. Oil hose (check
10. Plastic locking 20. Plastic locking valve to diaphragm
clamps clamp fuel pump)
11. Pulse hose (lower) 21. Oil pressure 32. Oil hose (diaphragm
12. Protective sleeve regulator oil pump to electric
(pulse hoses) 22. Plastic locking oil pump)
13. Plastic locking clamp
clamp
682 SUPPLEMENT
8. Connect all hoses to the respective pump fittings. Se- to remove the oil inlet (24, Figure 116) and outlet fittings
cure all hoses with a suitable clamp. (30) from the pump. Remove and discard the O-rings (23
9. Connect the Wwhite wire to the oil pressure switch and 29, Figure 116).
terminal. Secure the wire with the screw. Route the wiring 8. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Lubricate the sur-
to prevent interference with moving components. faces with OMC Triple Guard grease, then slip new
10. Connect the battery cables. O-rings (23 and 29, Figure 116) onto the threaded ends of
11. Bleed air from the system as described in this section. the fittings (24 and 30). Thread the fittings into the re-
placement pump openings. Clamp the manifold using a
vise with protective jaws, then use a deep socket to tighten
~lectric'oilPump and the fittings to 60-72 in.-lb. (6.8-8.1 N.m.).
Distribution Manifold Replacement 9A. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Fit the pump and
manifold assembly onto the intake manifold. Apply a
The electric oil pump and distribution manifold (Figure light coating of OMC Nut Lock to the threads, then thread
120) are incorporated into a single assembly and are not the four screws into the distribution manifold and intake
individually serviceable. The mounting location for the mamfold. Tighten the four screw in a crossing pattern to
assembly will vary by model. On 90-175 hp models, the 85-95 in.-lb. (9.6-10.7 N-m.).
assembly is located on the front of the power head. On 200 9B. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp
and 225 hp models, the assembly is located on the lower (1999-2002)--Guide the two pump mounting studs into
starboard side of the power head. Refer to Figures the openings in the mounting bracket. Apply a Light coat-
116-118 as appropriate for this procedure. ing of OMC Nut Lock to the mounting studs, then thread
1. Disconnect the battery cables to prevent accidental the two nuts (38, Figure 117 or 3, Figure 118) onto the
starting. pump studs. Refer to the following:
2. Note the hose routing and connection points, then care- a. 90-175 hpTighten the nuts to 85-95 in.-lb.
l l l y pull the five or seven clear hoses fiom the distribu- (9.6-10.7 N-m.).
tion manifold fittings. Plug the hoses to prevent
- -
contamination and excess oil spillage.
3A. 150 and 175 hp models (1997 and 1998)--Carefully
pull the retaining clip (28, Figure 116) from the oil pump
fittings. Carehlly pull the oil inlet and return hose from
the pump fittings. Remove the O-rings (25 and 3 1, Figure
116) from the fittings. Discard the O-rings.
3B. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp
(1999-2002)-Use needle nose pliers to pull the retainers
(24, Figure 117 or 25, Figure 118) from the oil pump fit-
tings. Carefully pull the oil inlet and return hose from the
pump openings. Remove the O-rings fi-om the fittings.
4. Wrap the disconnected hose ends to prevent contami-
nation. Secure the hoses with the fitting ends facing up-
-
ward to reduce oil svillane.
A
5. Push the tab in, then disconnect the engine wire har-
ness from the oil pump connector.
6A. 150 and I75 hp (1997 and 1998)-Remove the four
screws, then pull the pump and manifold assembly from
the intake manifold.
6B. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp
(1999-2002)-Support the oil pump, then remove the two
nuts (38, Figure 117 or 3, Figure 118) from the pump
studs. Pull the pump and manifold assembly from the
mounting bracket.
7. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)--Clamp the mani-
fold using a vise with protective jaws. Use a deep socket
b. 200 and 225 hpTighten the nuts to 60-80 in.-lb. ting. The retainer must engage the groove in the fitting.
(6.8-9.0N-m.). Tug on the fittings to verify a secure connection. Repeat
10A. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Lubricate the this step for the oil outlet fitting.
surfaces with two-cycle outboard oil, then slip new 12. Plug the engine wire harness onto the electric oil
O-rings onto the oil inlet (24, Figure 116) and outlet fit- pump connector. Route the wiring to prevent interference
tings (30) on the oil pump. Install the brown O-rings onto with moving components.
the inlet fitting and the black O-rings onto the outlet fit- 13. Connect each of the five or seven clear oil hoses to the
ting. respective fitting on the distribution manifold. One hose
IOB. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp leads to the diaphragm fuel pump. The remaining hoses
(1999-2002)-Lubricate the surfaces with two-cycle out- lead to the intake manifold fittings. Make sure all hoses
board oil, then fit new O-rings onto oil inlet (10, Figure connect onto the original manifold fittings. Secure the
117 or 23 Figure 118) and oil outlet (16, Figure 117 or 17, hoses with suitable clamps.
Figure 118) fittings. Install the brown O-rings onto the in- 14. Connect the battery cables.
let fitting and the black O-rings onto the outlet fitting. 15. Bleed air from the system as described in this section.
11A. 150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)-Carefully fit
the oil inlet and outlet fittings onto the electric oil pump
fittings. Push both hose fittings onto the pump fittings, Oil Pressure Regulator Replacement
then clip the retainer (28, Figure 116) onto the pump
The oil pressure regulator (Figure 121) is located along
and fittings. Tug the hose fittings to verify a secure con- the oil return hose connecting the electric oil pump to the
nection. on-board reservoir. Refer to Figure 116-118 as appropri-
11B. 90-115 hp (1998-2002) and 150-225 hp
ate for this procedure.
(1999-2002)-Carefully insert the inlet hose fitting into
the pump opening. Install the retainer (24, Figure 117 or
starting.
25, Figure 118) into the slot in the pump to secure the fit-
2. Trace the oil retwn hose from the electric oil pump to
the pressure regulator.
3. Place a container suitable for holding oil under the reg-
ulator.
4. Loosen the hose clamps, then pull the regulator from
the hoses.
5. Carefully connect the hoses onto the replacement reg-
ulator. The hose leading to the electric oil pump must con-
nect to the fitting on the red colored end of the regulator.
6. Secure the hoses to the regulator fittings with suitable
clamps.
8. Bleed air from the system as describe in this section.
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement
The oil pressure switch (Figure 122) threads into the di-
aphragm oil pump housing. Refer to Figure 116-118 for
this procedure.
starting.
2. Remove the screw, then disconnect the tadwhite wire
from the oil pressure switch.
3. Use a deep socket to remove the oil pressure switch
from the pump.
4. Use a tooth pick to remove all residual sealant from the
threaded opening in the pump. Do not allow any sealant to
enter the oil passages.
684 SUPPLEMENT
5. Apply a light coating of OMC Pipe Sealant to the hose leading to the intake manifold fitting or diaphragm
threaded end of the switch. Do not allow any sealant near fuel pump.
or in the oil passage openings. 6. Secure the hoses to the check valve fittings using suit-
6. Carefullythread the switch into the pump housing. Use able clamps.
a deep socket to tighten the switch to 20-168 in.-lb. 7. Connect the battery cables.
(13.6-19.0 N.m.). 8. Bleed air from the system as described in this section.
7. Calibrate a multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch the
positive test lead to the body of the pump. Touch the nega- Bleeding Air From the System
tive test lead to the metal portion (not the wire terminal) of
the switch. If the meter does not indicate continuity, the Perform this operation after servicing the oil injection
switch threads are not making electrical contact with the system. The engine must be operated to bleed air from the
pump body. Remove the switch, clean the threads and re- system. Refer to Figures 116-118 for this procedure.
install as needed. 1. Locate the oil return hoses. This hose connects the
8. Connect the tadwhite wire to the switch terminal. Se- electric oil pump to the oil pressure regulator. An addi-
cure the wire terminal with the screw. tional hose connects the oil pressure regulator to the oil re-
9. Connect the battery cables. turn fitting on the on-board oil reservoir. Disconnect the
10. Bleed air from the system as describe in t h s section. return hose from the on-board reservoir fitting. Direct the
hose into the reservoir fill opening. Pump the oil primer
bulb until oil flows from the hose. Continuepumping until
Oil Hose and Check Valve
all of the air bubbles are purged from the hose. Reconnect
Testing and Replacement the hose. Do not clamp the hose at this time.
This section describes oil hose inspection and check 2. Locate the five or seven clear hoses connected to the
valve testing and replacement. Upon removal, inspect the oil distribution manifold. Trace these hoses to their fit-
oil hoses for split, abraded, weathered or surface damage. tings on the intake manifold and diaphragm fuel pump.
Replace any damaged or suspect hoses. Replace clear 3. Disconnect the hoses, one at time, and position with
hoses if they feel sticky or are cloudy. The clear hoses de- the disconnected end facing upward. Fill the hoses with
teriorate more rapidly if the engine is operated or stored in the recommended oil until the oil level is about 114 in.
a warm climate. Use syringe or hand operated air pump to £rom the top of the hose. Use a syringe to remove oil from
check the operation of the check valve. Refer to Figures hoses that are full. This air bubble is needed to verify oil
116-118 for this procedure. movement during the bleeding process. Reconnect the
hoses onto the fittings.
4. Prepare the engine for operation on a flushhest device,
starting.
test tank or under actual operating condition.
2. Place a shop towel or suitable container under the fit-
5. Have an assistant start the engine, then use needle nose
tings to capture any spilled oil.
pliers to close the hose connecting the electric oil pump to
3. Remove or loosen the hose clamp, then pull the hose
the oil pressure regulator. Observe the clear hoses at the
from the check valve fittings.
intake manifold fittings. If the air bubbles near the fittings
4. Check the operation of the check valve as follows: do not clear from the hoses within 10-15 seconds, imme-
a. Using a suitable hose, connect the air pump or sy-
ringe into the inlet fitting of the check valve. The ar-
row on the check valve body (Figure 123) faces the
outlet fitting. Pump air into the inlet fitting. Air
must exit the outlet fitting.
b. Connect the air pump to the outlet fitting of the
check valve. The arrow on the check valve body
faces the outlet fitting. Pump air into the outlet fit-
ting. Air must not exit the outlet fitting.
c. Replace the check valve if it fails to perform as de-
scribed.
5. Pre-fill the hoses with the recommended oil (Chapter
Four), then install the hoses onto the check valve fittings.
The arrow on the check valve body must face toward the
diately stop the engine and test the oil injection system as engine and test the oil injection system as described in the
described in the Chapter Three section of this Supple- Chapter Three section of this Supplement.
ment. 7. Stop the engine. Reconnect the hose onto the
oil-reservoir fitting and secure with a suitable clamp. Se-
6. Pinch the return hose closed for approximately 20 sec- cure the clear oil hoses to the intake manifold and fuel
onds after the bubbles are purged. Release the hose, then pump fittings with suitable clamps.
disconnectthe return hose from the fitting on the on-board 8. Clean up any spilled oil. Start the engine, then check
oil reservoir. Direct the hose into the oil fill opening. If oil for oil leakage from the oil hoses and fittings. Correct any
does not exit the hose while the engine operates, stop the oil leakage before putting the engine into service.
Table 15 TIGHTENING TORQUE

I Fastener in.-lb. ft.-lb. Nmm I
Bracket to power head
Diaphragmtype oil pump
Electric oil pump fittings
150 and 175 hp (1997 and 1998)
Electric oil pumplmanifold
90-175 hp
200and225hp
Oil pressure switch

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


686 INDEX
Index
130 hp (1996) and 200.

225.250 and 300 hp
Adhesives. lubricants and Dowel pins. power head . . . . . . . 303-304 (1995 and 1996) . . . . . . . 182-185
sealants. power head . . . . . . . 282-283 Drive shaft. 130.200. 225 and 250 hp
Anticorrosion maintenance . . . . 156-157 and bearing housing . . . . . . . . 4 56.461 (1997 and 1998) . . . . . . . 185-188
65 jet. 870 jet. 1995-1997
and 85-115 hp 90" V4
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221-229 cross flow models. . . . . . 169-175
Electric
charging system . . . . . . . . . . . 229-233 80 jet (1998). 105jet. 90. 115.
battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221-229 150 and 175 hp (60" V4)
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . 59-65 charging system . . . . . . . . . 229-233
Bearing installation. and V6 models) . . . . . . . 175-179
component replacement . . . . . . . . . 569 required equipment . . . . . . 168-169
service precautions. gearcase . . . . 397
connector service . . . . . . . . . . 269-274 timing
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 660-678 and sychronization . . . . . . . . . . 168
flywheel sevice . . . . . . . . . . .250-256 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . 135-139
Capacitor discharge ignition fuse or circuit breaker . . . . . . 233-235 temperature and
(CDI) troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . 75 motor testing. overheating. . . . . . . . . . . 133-135
Carburetors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198-201 trim and tilt systems . . . . . . 501-508
Minlon.V4 and V6 neutral safety switch . . . . . . . . . . .250
loop charged models . . . . .205.213 service precautions- Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-8
top feed. V4 corss flow 1998 model year engines . . . . . . 221 and torque. power head . . . . .283.284
models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201-205 troubleshooting Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . . . 566-685
Charging system. battery . . . . . .229-233 charging system . . . . . . . . . . . 601-609
accessories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 601-609 electrical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660-678
battery. charging system. . . . . 59-65
Circuit breaker or fuse . . . . . . . . 223-235 he1 system . . . . . . . 609.62,64 0.6593
power trim
Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 ignition system . . . . 590.601.66 0.678
and tilt systems. . . . . . . . 489-500
Connecting rod lubrication, maintenance
orientation. power head . . . . . 3 36.337 starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 4-59
and tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . 634-639
wiring harnesses . . . . . . . . . . .42-43
Connecting rod service. oil delivery system . . . . . . . . . 623-627
power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304-305 wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . .689-735 oil injection system . . . . . . . . 678-685
Corrosion Engine starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . 588-592
control. gearcase . . . . . . . . . . 383-384 flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 system operation . . . . . . . . . . 569-588
galvanic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-13 operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . 567-634
protection from . . . . . . . . . . . 13-14 synchronizationand Flywheel
Counter-rotation gearcases. linkage adjustments power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
twin engine applications . . . . 381-382 130 hp (1995) . . . . . . . . . . . 179-182 service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250-256
INDEX 687
Fuel system. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131-132 propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385.386 pump unit

antisiphon devices . . . . . . . . .2 19-220 removal.installation . . . . . . . . 387-393 adjustments
carburetors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198-201 service precautions . . . . . . . . .382-383 and maintenance. . . . . . .448.455
checkmg fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 bearing installation . . . . . . . . . .397 pump unit service . . . . . . . .455.456
electric fuel primer pump. seal installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 water intake housing liner . . . . . . . 461
V8 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 13-214 shift lever detent adjustment . . . . . 385
electic fuel shift shaft height
primer solenoid. . . . . . . . . .2 14-215 adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . .447.448 Key and neutral start switch.
Ficht Fuel Injection trim tab adjustment. . . . . . . . .386-387 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
(FFI) . . . . . . . . . .609.623,64 0.659 two-piece drive shafts . . . . . . . . . . 398
line and oil line water pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 93-397
removaVinstallation . . . . . . 530-531 General information
line and primer bult . . . . . . . . . . . .220 engine operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.10,14 8.154
Minlon carburetors, V4 and V6 Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . . . . 567 Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 634-639
loop charged models . . . . . .205.213 fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-8 gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
module and vapor separator, 60" galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . 11-13 sealants and
V4 and V6 models . . . . . . .216-219 protection from . . . . . . . . . . . .13-14 adhesives. power head . . . . 2 82.283
pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190-198 gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11
tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 lubricants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-10
torque specifications propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-20 Maintenance
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . . 659 torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 anticorrision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156-157
top feed carburetor, V4
complete submersion . . . . . . . 155-156
cross flow models . . . . . . . .20 1-205
storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154-155
vacuum switch . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 15-216
Manual tilt-assist cylinder . . . . .466-468
Fuse, or circuit breaker . . . . . . . .233-235 High altitude operation.
Mechanic's techniques . . . . . . . . . . 3 1-32
gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 3 80.381
Model identification.
Hydraulic troubleshooting. power
EvinrudeIJohnson. . . . . . . . . .279-280
trim and tilt systems . . . . . . ..478.489
Galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.13
protection from . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13-14
Gearcase.
Neutral safety switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
assembly
Ignition system Neutral start adjustment,
V4 series gearcase . . . . . . .406-420
CD4. 90" V4 tiller handle models . . . . . . . . 384-385
V6 and V8 series counter-
rotation gearcases . . . . . .434.440 cross-flow models . . . . . . .256.260
V6 and V8 series standard CD4. CD6 and CD8 ignition.
rotation gearcases . . . . . .420.425 90" V4. V6 and V9 Oil delivery system.
cleaning and inspection . . . . .440.443 loop-charged models .... .264.269 Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 623-627
corrosion control . . . . . . . . . .383.384 Ficht Fuel Injections Oil injection
counter-rotation gearcases, (FFI) . . . . . . . . . .590.601.66 0.678 disabling the
twin engine applications. . . 381-382 OIS2000 ignition system. oil injection feature. . . . . . . 537-538
disassembly 60" V4 and V6 models . . . .260.264 Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 678-685
and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . 397-440 troubleshooting. . . . . . . . . . . . .. 74.75 fuel and oil line
V4 series gearcase . . . . . . . 398-406 CD4 ignition system, 130 hp removaVinstallation . . . . . .530.531
V6 and V8 counter- V4 loop charged models . . . 82-93 pulse limiter service . . . . . . . . 548-550
rotation series gearcase. .425.433 CD4 ignition system. system operation. . . . . . . . . . . 532-537
forward gear and bearing service, V4 cross flow models . . . . . . . 76 tank and
V6 series counter- CD6 ignition system. supply line service . . . . . . .550.553
roration gearcase . . . . . . . .433.434 2OOand225hp . . . . . . . . . . . 104 troubleshooting. . . . . . . . . . . .538.543
gear ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 CD8 ignition system. 250 no2
high altitude operation . . . . . . 380-381 and300hpV8models . . . . . . 117 all models except 88.90.
identification. . . . . . . . . . . . . .378-379 112 and 115
lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384 special models . . . . . . . . 53 1-553
neutral start adjustment,
J
P-P
tiller handle models . . . . . . 384-385 Jet drive assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .547.548
operation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .379.380 drive shaft disassembly . . . . . . . . . . 545-547
pinion gear shimming. . . . . . .445.447 and bearing housing . . . . . .456.461 removaVinstallation . . . . 543-545
pressure and vacuum tests . . . . . . . 444 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448 Operating requirements . . . . . . . . . 35-36
688 INDEX
Trim tab adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 368-387

Pinion gear s a g . . . . . . . .445.447 Seal installation. service Troublshooting
Piston ring end gap. precautions. gearcase . . . . . . . . . . .397 battery charging system . . . . . . . 59-65
all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .337-338 Sealant capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)
Power head gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335-368 lubricatns and adhesives.
CD4 ignition system 130 hp
60" V4 and V6 models . . . . 349-358 power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282-283
V4 loop charging models . . . . 82-93
90 V4 Sealing surfaces. power head . . . . . . 283
cross-flow models . . . . . 339-349 Shift lever detent adjustment . . . . . . . 385 CD4 ignition systme V4
Shift shaft height adjustment . . .447.448 cross flow models . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
90 V4. V6 and V8
loop-charged models . . .358.368 Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 CD6 ignition system
break.in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Specifications 2OOand225hp . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
cleaning and inspection . . . . . 324-335 carburetor. slow speed . . . . . . . . . . 220 CD8 ignition system
connecting rod charging. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 250 and 300 hp V8 models . . . . 117
orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336-337 enginespeed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
electrical accessories ............ 65
service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304-305 ignition . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . 146
oil injection system . . . . . . . . . . . . 553 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135-139
disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302-324
I 60°V4andV6models . . . . 312-318 powerhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 temperature and
spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 overheating . . . . . . . . . . . 133-135
90" loop-charged
supplement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566-685 Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 567-634
models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 18-324
tming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
90" V4 cross-flow fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131-132
Starting system
models . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305-312 ignition system. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74-75
electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235-249
dowel pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303-304 key and neutral start switch . . . . . . 130
Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 588-590
EvinrudeIJohnson
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44-59 oil injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538-543
model identification . . . . . . 279-280
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154-155 OIS2000 ignition system
fasteners and torque . . . . . . . . 283-284 Submersion, complete . . . . . . . . 155-156
flywheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Supplement, 60" V4 and V6
lubricants. sealants Ficht Fuel Injection (FFI) . . . . 566-685 (loop-charged) models . . . . . . . 93
and adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . 282-283 operating requirements . . . . . . . . 35-36
piston ring end gap.
starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44-59
all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337-338
reed valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368-369 Taper pin service. test and repair equipment . . . . . . 36-42
removaVinstallation . . . . . . . . 284-302 power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302-303 warning systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65-74
60" V4 and V6 models . . . .29 1.295 Test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26-28 wiring harnesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42-43
90" V4 cross-flow And repair equipment . . . . . . . . . . 36-42
Tune-up
models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285-291 Thermostats and
water blow-off valve . . . . . . . 369-373 engine flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
90" loop-charged
models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295-302 Tools. basic hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21-26 power steering
sealing surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 belt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157-158
service considerations . . . . . . 278-279 electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Two-piece drive shafts, gearcase . . . . 398
service precautions-1998 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
model year engines . . . . . . . . . .28 1 connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
service recommendations . . . .28 1.282 cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . 166. 374
taper pin service . . . . . . . . . . . 302-303 gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462 Warning systems.
ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146. 275 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65-74
thermostats and
jet drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
water blow-off valve . . . . . 369-373 Water blow-off valve
powerhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
wrist pin locking clips . . . . . . . . . . 304 and thermostats . . . . . . . . . . . 369-373
remote controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565
Power steering belt tension . . . . 157-158 Water intake housing liner . . . . . . . . . 461
trim and tilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-20
Trim and tlt systmes Water pump. gearcase . . . . . . . . 393-397
gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385-386
electric motor testing . . . . . . . 501-508 Wiring
manual tilt-assist cylinder . . . 466-468
power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468-478 diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 689-735
R harnesses. troubleshooting. . . . . 42-43
electric troubleshooting . . . 489-500
Reed valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368-369 hydraulic troubleshooting . 478-489 Wrist pin locking clips.
Remote controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554-565 service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508-523 power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.


690 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995 85 BACKTROLLER AND 80 JET

(TILLER HANDLE)
Emergency .-
stop - Primer Start Key
switch button button Power pack switch Temperature
Ignition solenoid stator

coils and
timer base
WIRING DIAGRAMS 691
Trimhilt Trim
junction box* sender' Dlagram Key
Color Code
#
+
Connectors
B
w
Black
white
4 Gmund R
Y
Red
Yellow
L Blue
0
T Tan
P Pink
Br Bmwn
Gr Gray
Pr Purple
Dark green
% BlacklYellow
GMI GreewWhlte
Lm Blue/Whlte
TMI TamWhite
PrMT PurpleMThlte
YIR YellowlRed
YIGr YellowlGray
BrN BmwnNellow
OlPr OrangelPurple
OIL OrangelBlue
010 Orangefireen
OIP OrangeIPlnk
WPr RedlPurple
Voltage Starter
regulator1 solenoid
rectifier
*80 jet (tiller) not equipped with power trim and tilt.
692 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995-1996 88 AND 112 SPECIAL, 90 AND 115 HP, 65 AND 80 JET

(REMOTE CONTROW O O V4 CROSS-FLOW)
Fuel
primer
solenoid Main ha-
- - - - - - - - - - - - -1
hamess I
I
I
.-,-,-U"i----------,--------------------
Trim and tilt mod& only
WIRING DIAGRAMS 693
694 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1996-2002 88 AND 115 SPECIAL (90" V4 CROSS-FLOW);

1996-1997 80 JET (90" V4 CROSS-FLOW)
Fuel
primer
solenoid
I - - - - - - U - " ' t - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I
Trim and tilt models only
WIRING DIAGRAMS 695
Starter
solenoid
20
amp --- ----- 7
Battery fuse I
--- Diagram Key
*
connectors
I Ground
f- Frame ground
-
No connection
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
T Tan
Br Brown
Gr Gray
Pr Purple
BN BladdYellow
BIO BladdOrange
WIT Whiteman
LIW BluetWhite
GMI GreenMlhiie
RIPr RedIPurple
YIR YellowIRed
YIGr YellowlGray
OIB OrangdBlack
OIR OrangdRed
OIL OrangelBlue
OIG OrangeIGreen
TIB TanIBlack
TA TanlBlue
TIG TanIGreen
Stator assembly
1 696 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995 90 AND 115 HP (60" V4)
Fuel
rimer
698 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1996-2002 90 AND 115 HP (60" V4);

1998-2002 80 JET (60" V4 LOOP-CHARGED [EXCEPT FFI MODELS])
Fuel
primer MWS To MWS
Blocking solenoid boat boat
Engine To To MWS diode harness
temperature VRO' boat
switch
I I
Tilt
Trim harness
gauge limit Relay
send~ng switch bracket switch
unit
WIRING DIAGRAMS 699
Starter 20
Diagram Key
C Ground
f- Frame ground
+
%onnection
No connection
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
T Tan
Br Brown
Gr Gray
Pr Purple
BN BlacWellow
810 Blacklorange
WIB WhiteIBlack
WIG WhiteIGreen
WIT Whiterran
LMI Bluewhite
GNV Greenwhite
FUPr RedIPurple
YIR YellowIRed
YlGr YellowlGray
OIB OrangelBlack
OIR OrangelRed
OIL OrangelBlue
OIG OrangelGreen
TIE TanIBlack
TIL TanlBlue
TIG TanJGreen
TN Tanffellow
BrNV BrowWhite
BrN BrownlYellow
Stator assembly
700 WIRING DIAGRAMS
90 AND 115 HP FlCHT FUEL INJECTION (FFI) MODELS

(1998 AND 1999)
Instrument
Trim switch
harness
connector
Cowl trirr
switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 709
a m m a ~ $ ~ ~ 0 0~ 0 0 ~ 3 ~ ~ ~ ~ I ~ m a o ~
Double
6
COIIunlt
ECU
w
Double
coll unlt
702 WIRING DIAGRAMS

(2000-2002)
Trim switch
harness
connection
Cowl
trim switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 703
EMM
1995 130 HP (90" V4 LOOP-CHARGED)
Fuel
primer
To
To boat
harness
unit
1 WIRING DIAGRAMS 705
Starter
solenoid
706 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1996-2002 (90" V4 LOOP-CHARGED)
Fuel
To MWS
To MWS
boat harness
unit
WIRING DIAGRAMS 707
Starter 20
solenoid amp
Color Code
Br Brown
GW GreenWhite
RPr RedlPurple
YIR YellowlRed
YlGr YellowlGray
016 OrangeBlack
OIP Orangelpink
OIL OrangeBlue
OIG OrangeIGreen
OlPr OrangelPurple
TIB TanJBlack
TA TanJBlue
TIG TanJGreen
TPI Tanplellow
PMI PnklWhde
Br/B BrownAlack
BrlY BrownIYellow
PrW PurpteMlhite
Stator assembly
-
I
-
708 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995 150 AND 175 HP; 1995 105 JET (60" V4)
-
Blocking diode
Voltage
regulatorlrectifier
Main harness
Power
pack
Ignition
coils
Primer -
Stator and optical
sensor assembly
WIRING DIAGRAMS 709
Engine
temperature
switch
r7E-l
mmm mmm
u
Starter
Shift Starter
....
sender switch
.--
!mperature interrunt
- ... solenoid
-------
motor
1996-2002 150,175 HP AND 105 JET (60" V6)

[EXCEPT FFI MODELS]
Fuel primer To MWS To MWS

solenoid boat boat
unit switch switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 711
Starter 20
Diagram Key
Color Code
B Black
W Wh~te
610 Blacklorange
WIB Wh~teIBlack
WIG Wh~teIGreen
W/T Wh~teman
LNV BlueMlhlte
GMI GreenMIhlte
RIPr RedlPurple
YIR YellowIRed
YIGr YellowlGray
018 OrangelBlack
OIR OrangelRed
OIL OrangeIBlue
OIG OrangelGreen
TI6 TanlBlack
TIL TanlBlue
TIG TanlGreen
TIY TanNellow
TI0 Tanlorange
BrMl BrownMlhite
BrN BrownNellow
Stator assembly
712 WIRING DIAGRAMS

(1997 AND 1998)
... .... r----

switch
714 WIRING DIAGRAMS

(1999)
Trim switch
harness
connectton
Cowl trim
switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 715
716 WIRING DIAGRAMS
150-225 HP FlCHT FUEL INJECTION (FFI) MODELS

(2000-2002)
Battery
Trim switch
harness
connection
Cowl trim
harness
WIRING DIAGRAMS 717
EMM
TZi?
718 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995 200 AND 225 HP (90" V6 LOOP-CHARGED)
WIRING DIAGRAMS 719
20
Starter Diagram Key
Connectors
A Ground
i- Frame ground
+No connection
)r Code LMI
GMT
Black RlPr
. .. .
......-
White YIR
Red YlGr
Blue om
Yellow OIR
Orange OIL
Tan OIG
Bmwn TIB
Gray TIL
.. Purple TIG
BN BlackP/ellow TN
BIO BladdOrange TI0
WIB WhiieiBlack BrIB
WIG WhitelGreen BrMT
WIT Whiterran BrN
llil
Stator
assembly
Power
pack timer base
720 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1996-2002 200 AND 225 HP (90" V6 LOOP-CHARGED)

[EXCEPT FFI MODELS]
Fuel
primer To MWS To MWS
Starter
20
Diagram Key
solenoid
Batterv fuse
+ Ground
I- Frame ground
+ Connection
+ No connection
LNV
GMI
R/Pr
YIR
YlGr
OIB
OIR
OR
OIG
Br Brown TIB
Gr TR
~r Fr41e TIG
BN BlacWellow TN
610 Black/Orange TI0
WIB WhiteIBlack Br/B
WIG WhitelGreen BrMI
WIT Whiteman BrlY
11111111111111
- Power
-
-
pack
722 WIRING DIAGRAMS

(1999)
Trim switch
harness
connection
Cowl trim
harness
WIRING DIAGRAMS 723
724 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1995 250 AND 300 HP (90" V8 LOOP-CHARGED)

Fuel primer Main
solenoid harness
To
motor
Trim gauge Tilt limit Relay Trim To fuel To
boat Shift enrichment fuel
sending switch bracket switch harness intempt switch vacuum
unit sw~tch switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 725
20
Starter Diagram Key
+ No connection
L/W BlueMlhie
GIW GreenMlhite
RlPr RedIPurple
W Wh~te YIR YellowlRed
YlGr YellowlGray
OIB OrangeIBlack
Y Yellow OIR OrangeIRed
OIL OrangeIBlue
OIG OrangeIGreen
Br Brown TIB TanMack
TIL TanlBlue
TIG TanlGreen
BN BlackiYellow TN TanNellow
BIO Blacklorange TI0 Tanlorange
WIB WielBlack BrIB BmwnIBlck
WIG WhiteIGreen BrlW BmwnhVhite
WE WhiteKan BrN Bmwn/Yellow
726 WIRING DIAGRAMS
1996-2000 250 HP (90" V8 LOOP-CHARGED)
WIRING DIAGRAMS 727
Starter
20
smn - Diagram Key
Ground
f- Frame ground
+ Connection
Color Code LIW Bluewhite

GNY Greenwhite
B Black RlPr RedIPurple
YiR YellowIRed
R Red YIGr YellowlGray
L Blue Om OrangelBlack
Y Yellow OIR OrangelRed
0 Orange OR Orangelslue
T Tan OIG OrangelGreen
Br Brown TIB TanlBlack
Gr Gray TIL TanIBlue
Pr Purple TIG TanlGreen
BN BlacWYellow TN TanlYellow
BlO Blacklorange TI0 Tanlorange
WIB WhitelBlack BrlB BrownlBlck
WIG WhielGreen BrMV BrownMlhiie
Wm Whiteman BrN BmwnlYellow
728 WIRING DIAGRAMS
TYPICAL TRIM AND TILT SYSTEM (1995 90" MODELS)

Tilt limit
sw~tch
Diagram Key
*1
connectors
Ground
- Frame ground
+ Connect~on
+ No connectron
I I I Starter
I I
-
L L
-
W motor
-
-G
L
(3 K!Y
Tnm gauge
sendlng
+ Battery
un~t
B --I - cables
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BiT BlacklTan
WiT WhlteiTan
UW Bluemh~te
GNV Greenwhite
RIPr RedlPurple
WIRING DIAGRAMS 729
TYPICAL TRIM AND TILT SYSTEM (1996-2002 90" MODELS)

lilt limit
switch
Diagram Key
Relay and junction box
+ No connection
Trim
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
~r Purple
Bm Blackman
Wm Whiteman
I I UW Bluewhite
GMI Greenwhite
RlPr RedIPumle
730 WIRING DIAGRAMS
TRIM AND TILT SYSTEM (1996-2002 60" MODELS)
Remote control Diagram Key

Electric
handle trim and Tilt
*
tilt switch Relay connecto~
bracket
Ground
-
+
+cOnnedlOn
No connectron
Tnm ..
gauge
6
- Lower cowl
trimh~lt
switch
WPr+ R
= G N V G
lgnltion
switch
r - - - - - 7
WPr
-
I
-
sending
unit
Color Code
B Black
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Pr Purple
BNV BlacldWh~te
BTT Blacman
WIT Wh~teTTan
RNV RedNVhlte
RIPr RedIPurple
Battery Starter GNV
LMI GreenNVh~te
BlueNVh~te
solenold
WIRING DIAGRAMS 731
BOAT WIRING HARNESS

(1996-2002 MODULAR WIRING SYSTEM)
To engine To engine To engine

trimltilt main wiring warning system Diagram Key
harness (1 harness harness
Ground
- - &- Frame ground
To GM'
trimltilt UW No connection
switch RMI
R/Pr
BN
To
YIR
ignition
BM'
switch
PrM'
Pr
Color Code
T B Black
T Tan
To system TN Gr Grav
checkgauge TIB Pr Pui~e
(or tachometer) BMl BlacWhite
BPI BlacklYellow
or W/T Whiterran
Audible driver TIB TanlBlack
module TPI TanPIellow
TIPr TanIPurple
TIBr TanlBrown
WW RedMlhite
RIPr RedlPurple
UW BlueMlhite
GMl GreenMlhite
To YIR YellowIRed
trim PrMl PurpleMlhite
gauge
To warning To
horn (required) conventional
tachometer
732 WIRING DIAGRAMS
CONTROL BOX WIRING HARNESS

Ignition switch
Diagram Key
*
connectors
Ground
_L Frame ground
--
No connection
6-pin
deutsch
connector
Color Code
B Black
Pr Purple
BN BlacklYellow
RIPr RedIPurple
YIR YellowIRed
PrMl PurpleMlhite
Neutral
safety
switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 733
CONTROL BOX WIRING HARNESS

(1995 TRADITIONAL HARNESS)
Ignition switch
Warning Diagram Key

horn
connectors
5 Ground
a
-- Frame ground
No connection
Accessory
connector
Color Code
B Black
T Tan
Gr Gray
Pr Purple
BN Black/Yellow
RlPr RedlPurple
YIR YellowIRed
PrlW PurplelWhite
Neutral Safety
safety lanyard
switch switch
734 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DUAL ENGINE WIRING HARNESS

(1995 TRADITIONAL HARNESSES)
Warning Emergency
horn Green-banded Blocking stop switch Diagram Key
(Green side) accessory diode (Common)
connectors
3 Ground
Frame ground
i n &mk $$ $
Green-banded
:Q
To neutral
safety switch
(Red side)
Red-banded Ignition
main switch
harness (Red side)
connector B
Pr
Pr
Color Code
kkmk tint $$ $ B
T Black
Tan
Gr Gray
Pr Purple
BN Black~Yellow
YIR YellowIRed
FUPr RediPurple
PrNV PurpleNVh~te
Red-banded
Warning accessory Blocking
horn connecton diode
(Red side)
735
WIRING DIAGRAMS
DUAL ENGINE WIRING HARNESS

Emergency
Blocking Blocking stop switch
diode diode (Common)
I
Starboard I
I Starbord
main
harness
I ignition
1
connector
RlPr I B
switch
To starboard
I Pr
neutral safety switch
I
To port neutral
safety switch
RlPr
I
YIR
I
Port main RlPr
harness BMI
connector Pr ignition
PrMT
BN - PrMT switch
BN
-
Diaararn Kev
Color Code
connectom B Black
Pr Purple
5 Ground BN
Y/R
BlacWellow
YellowIRed
I- Frame ground
RlPr
PrW
RedlPurple
PurpleWhite
+ Connection
No connection

one of my manuals.


a PIRATED copy.



Evinrude 65hp 300hp 95-2002 PDF

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www.manuals-n-more.com.

Tools and Techniques

Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-Up

Engine Synchronization and Linkage Adjustment

Ignition and Electrical Systems

Lower Gearcase and Jeft Drive Units

Trim and Tilt Systems

Oil Injection Systems

Supplement (1 997-2002 Ficht Fuel Injection Service Information)

This detailed, comprehensive manual contains com- MANUAL ORGANIZATION

design. Figure 1 shows gasoline two-stroke engine op-

Four-Stroke Cycle There are many different types of machine screws

TWO-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

As the piston travels down-

As the piston almost reaches

FOUR-STROKE GASOLINE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

As the piston travels

As the piston almost

Hex Flat Oval Filister Round

OPENINGS FOR TURNING TOOLS

Slotted Phillips Allen Internal torx External torx

mension. The measurement across two flats of the nut

There are two basic types of washers: flat washers

In certain applications, a fastener must be secured so

Internal snap ring Plain circlip

External snap ring Plain circlip

Two-stroke Engine Oil

Lubrication for a two-stroke engine is provided by oil

behind excessive deposits. It must also withstand the GASKET SEALANT

Grease RTV Sealant

Applying RTV Sealant GALVANIC CORROSION

A chemical reaction occurs whenever two different

Electrolyte Slowing Corrosion

Some simple precautions can help reduce the amount

selection for a specific application is beyond the scope

How a Propeller Works

As the curved blades of a propeller rotate through the

Although a propeller is usually a one-piece unit, it is

Propeller blades can be constructed with constant

Blade thickness in not uniform at all points along the

with the thinnest portions at the edges and the thickest

The number of blades used on a propeller is a compro-

momentarily loses its bite with the water and subse-

Table I CONVERSlON TABLES

Table 1 CONVERSION TABLES (continued)

Table 2 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS

Table 3 TECHNICAL ABBREVIATIONS

Table 4 METRIC TAP AND DRILL SIZES

Table 5 BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE

Thank-you for purchasing

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If you did not purchase this

Please report the person

To use the program just click

Tools and Techniques

TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 23

and automobile repair. Some tools are made especially for

A screwdriver (Figure 1)is a very basic tool, but if used

Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are

use pliers to cut hardened objects or turn bolts or nuts.

Box-end and Open-end Wrenches

Box-end and open-end wrenches (Figure 7) are avail-

An adjustable wrench (Figure 10) can be adjusted to fit