Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
THE GREEK
ISLANDS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
THE GREEK
ISLANDS
CONSULTANT: MARC DUBIN
Maps
Gary Bowes, Fiona Casey, Christine Purcell (ERA-Maptec Ltd) Fishing boats in the old port of Liménas, Thásos
Photographers
Max Alexander, Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, Rupert Horrox,
Rob Reichenfeld, Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke Contents
Illustrators
How to Use this Guide 6
Stephen Conlin, Steve Gyapay, Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Associates,
Mel Pickering, Paul Weston, John Woodcock
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Introducing the
Greek Islands
Discovering the
Greek Islands 10
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Putting Greece on
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, the Map 24
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
A Portrait of
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of the Greek Islands 26
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com. The History
of Greece 36
Front cover main image: A blue-domed church overlooking the sea in Oía, Santoríni
Préveli beach, on the island of Crete
The Northeast Aegean Survival Guide
Islands 134
Practical Information
The Dodecanese 168 350
The Cyclades 214
Travel Information 360
Crete 254
A Short Stay
in Athens 292
Travellers’
Needs
Where to Stay 308
The Greek Islands Where to Eat
Through the Year 56 and Drink 320
Ancient
Greece
Gods, Goddesses
and Heroes 64
Kámpos beach on Ikaría in the Northeast
The Trojan War 66 Roman horse head in Chalkída’s Aegean Islands
Archaeological Museum, Evvoia
Greek Writers and General Index 370
Philosophers 68 Shopping in Greece
340 Phrase Book 396
Temple
Architecture 70 Specialist Holidays and Map of Ferry Routes
Outdoor Activities inside back cover
Vases and Vase 342
Painting 72
Beaches and
Water Sports 346
The Greek Islands
Area by Area
The Greek Islands
at a Glance 76
The Argo-Saronic
Islands 102
The Sporades
and Evvoia 114 Néa Moní on Chíos,
Northeast Aegean Islands
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
Lipsí
Sámos
Getting Around
Kos, Rhodes and Kárpathos have international airports;
those at Léros, Astypálaia and Kásos are domestic.
Travelling by sea, it is wise to plan where you want to go,
as some islands do not share direct connections even
THE DODECANESE 171
Lipsí Town when quite close. Also journeys can be long – it takes
beaches with all kinds of water Gríkos
and there are useful tips on semi-active volcano on Nísyros. Lakkí Bus services are good, especially on the larger islands, Locator Map
Historical sights in the group and there are always cars and bikes for hire or taxis
are just as diverse, including Kálymnos available, though the standard of roads can vary.
Arginónta
Islands at a Glance lists the islands north and Rhodes, the group’s
capital, in the south make
good bases for air and Vathý Mandráki Páloi
Sými Town
Agía Marína
Megálo
Sými Panormítis
Colourful Neo-Classical houses in Sými town
Livádia
Koskinoú Islands at a Glance
Antitílos Kalavárda Faliráki Astypálaia p184
Piraeus, Petaloúdes Chálki pp208–9
Amorgós Sýrna Skála
Kameírou Profítis Ilías Kálymnos pp178–9
Alimiá 800m
Kárpathos pp212–13
Emponas
Nimporió Ataviros Archángelos Kastellórizo p209
Chálki 1210m Kos pp180–83
Láerma Charáki Léros pp176–7
Monólithos Lipsí p176
0 miles 15
Diafáni
Olympos
Crete
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4 For keys to symbols see back flap
3
survived in fortified Kastélli. Today, Kálymnos has become history of sponges. Transport
Practical Information
contact points for tourists and
transport information, plus
place is, in fact, church dates back to the 14th century.
* 115,000. n Rhodes town
Rhodes, the capital of the Dodecanese, was an important home to thousands
Sými, Kos (22413 61200). _ Rodíni Park
centre in the 5th to 3rd centuries BC. It was part of both the of moths during
Wine Festival, outskirts of Rhodes
the summer. Chálki, Piraeus,
Roman and Byzantine empires, before being conquered by Kastellórizo
Platý
Ancient
Kámeiros Psínthos Ladikó
Bay
204 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
RHODES RHODES 205
Afántou
4
Skála L
Kameírou
oú
Greece’s Top Islands
tar
Exploring Eastern Rhodes w Archángelos
Kolýmpia
i
6 Skála Kameírou Golfers can visit the 18hole
Lir
Profítis Ilías
enó
A pleasant place to relax, Skála 800 m (2,600 ft) course at Afántou village,
Eptá Pigés Αρχάγγελος
s
Kameírou is an attractive harbour The sheltered east coast hasGmiles of beaches and rocky with its pebbly coves and
aïd 33 kmTsampíkas
(20 miles) S of Rhodes town.
that once served the ancient coves, theKritinía
crowded holiday playgrounds
ou of Faliráki and Moní beaches, popular for boat
An introduction
ro * 3,000. @ L StégnaTsampíka
3 km
city of Kámeiros. Líndos contrastingEmponas
with the deserted
pó
ta sands in the south- 1 . Rhodes Town trips from Rhodes town.
m (2 miles) E. Mandráki harbour is at the
o Set in apricot orchards,
Kritinía castle built by east. For sightseeing purposes the ways east divides into Archángelos
Stégna
centre of Rhodes town, which
The island’s largest village, Afántou means the “hidden
the Knights of Rhodes, two sections: from the southern tip of the island at is one of Greece’s most
geography of the
Foúrnoi Istrios been one of the main sources pebble mosaics (see p208). * 1,200. @ L Réni Koskinoú
Μονή Θάρρι Charáki village
2 km (1 mile) NE.
Lárdos
ofLíndos
income (see for generations
p204).
40 km (25 miles) SProfília
of Rhodes town. Moní
Ypsenís of villagers. e Eptá Pigés The sandy beach at Tsampíka The old village of Koskinoú is
@ to Laérma. Open daily.
Siána is a pretty The townspeople have their This is an enchanting beauty r Faliráki characterized by its traditional
Faliráki
island. The main
traditional hill Apolakkiá
From the inland resort of Lárdos Asklipieío own dialect and are fiercely spot that takes its name from
Péfkoi andthewater falls, where the This funpackedr resort Rhodian houses featuring the
village, known for follow signs to Láerma, which Lárdos patriotic – some graves are “seven springs” that are theseven sourcesprings feed aoffers all sorts of nightlife
central choklákia pebble mosaic floors
Arnítha Φαληράκι
its locally distilled is just north Vátio
of Moní Thárri, even painted blue and white. reservoir. The springsand
for the area’s central reservoir. water sports, and is
were and courtyards. There is an
spirit, soúma famous for its 12thcentury In the centre, the church harnessed to irrigateparticularly
the popular
15 kmwith
(9 miles) S of Rhodes town. attractive church of Eisódia tis
7 Emponas
The slopes around this traditional
town have been cultivated with
vines by the Emery winery since
(see p203). frescoes.
MoníReached
Skiádi through a
S alon Gennádio
forest, the domed kchurch
hidden from view in order to
íti was
w Archángelos
A popular
of Archángeloi Michaïl and
place, the
Gavriíl
Archángelos is set in
to visit,
village’s patron
saints, is distinguished by a
attractive countryside,
orange groves of Kolýmpia
to the east. The lake can be
reached either by a woodland
the* young.
400. @
Faliráki, one of the island’s
most popular resorts,
Theotókou, which has a multi
tiered bell tower. Nearby, Réni
Koskinoú has good hotels,
sights are numbered
and plotted on
the 1920s.
escape the attention of A friendly resident in the pretty tiered bell tower and pebble trail, or you can shuffle ankle consists of long sandy restaurants and beaches.
and maintains a tradition
marauding pirates. village of Asklipieío mosaic
of handicraft courtyard.
production. deep in water through a beaches surrounded by
According to legend, it was Above the town are ruins 185 m (605 ft) tunnel. This whitewashed hotels, holiday Environs
Lachaniá
8 Monólithos built in the 9th century by a centuries. These are more distinct, of the Crusader castle, built quiet spot is home to a apartments and restaurants. South of Koskinoú lies Thérmes
9 Moní Skiádi
This monastery was built in the 18th and
south walls remain, and there 0 Moní About
are vestiges of the 9thcentury
countryside,
building in the grounds.
has a
apse and dome are covered with
Hidden
The nave,
domed
away
church
Thárri 8 km (5 miles) south
in the
along a rough track is the
this monastery
pleasant village of Asklipieío,
that is
with the frescoed church of
a modern fresco of the saint
in action against the dragon.
One
To theofeast
the island’s
sites, the
q
of the town
acropolis
the bay of Stégna, a quiet
.
at
Líndos
most visited
lies
Líndos
Environs
Further east along
the coast, the
mostly for a younger crowd.
As well as a huge waterside
complex, Faliráki Water
Park, there are all
and offers visitors a unique
combination of nature,
architecture and history. The spa
is set in lovely gardens, reached
then described in
19th centuries and is famous for its icon
of the Panagía, or the Blessed Virgin.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
frescoes. Some home
Prasonísi to several
walls have
dating
layers of paintings, the earliest
dating as far back as 1100, while
four frescoes,
to the 12th
sometis Theotókou.
Kímisis
century.
q Líndos
and towers
of sand.
over the
sheltered town from its
stretch
clifftop position.
Byzantine Moní
Tsampíkas sits
on a mountainFor keys to symbols see back flap There are bars
types of water
sports to enjoy.
through pinewoods. There is
now a busy lido here, and the
rocky coves are popular for
more detail on the
pages that follow.
there are three layers in the apse Environs top at 300 m (985 ft). and discos, and scubadiving and snorkelling.
dating from the 12th–16th See pp206–7. South past Malónas is the castle Legend has it that the numerous places to
of Faraklós. It was a pirate 11th century icon in the eat, from fish and chips
stronghold before the Knights chapel was found by an to Chinese. Other
saw them off and turned it into infertile couple, who Peacock at diversions include
a prison. The fortress overlooks later conceived a child. Eptá Pigés bungee jumping.
Charáki, a pleasant fishing The chapel hence
hamlet, now growing into a became a place of pilgrimage Faliráki Water Park
holiday resort, with a pebble for childless women to Faliráki. Tel 22410 84403. Open May–
beach that is lined with come to pray to the icon Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily (Jun–Aug: to
fish tavernas. of the Virgin. They also 7pm). & ∑ water-park.gr
pledge to name their child
Tsampíka or Tsampíkos, Environs
e Eptá Pigés names that are unique to Slightly inland, the village
Επτά Πηγές the Dodecanese. of Kalythiés offers a more
Below the monastery lies traditional break. Its attractive
26 km (16 miles) S of Rhodes town. Tsampíka beach, a superb Byzantine church, Agía
@ to Kolýmpia. L Tsampíka 5 km
stretch of sand that becomes Eleoúsa, contains some
(3 miles) SE.
very crowded in the tourist interesting frescoes. Further
Eptá Pigés, or Seven Springs, season. Various water sports, southeast, rocky Ladikó Bay
D harbour. @ Mandráki.
centre of the old town. The new town (see gate
5
A M
N
O U
O
Street-by-Street Map
LL
PO
AP
gate
OM
Rejep Pasha
AG
Mosque
U
O
U
U
KR
R
SO
IR
U
M
I P
U
TH
O
AG
T
O
RA
E M O U
A
KR
AP
SO
PY
TH EL
AG LO
OR U
I P O L
A
Plateía Ippokrátous
S
LO
of the Marine Gate has a TE
medieval fountain. T O
T L
IS St Peter’s
AR
Martyrs Temple of This was the final line of defence for the
St Paul’s
IS
H Byzantine Museum
T
IN tower
IO (see p194)
U Navarcheíou
Decorative Arts gate Archaeological
PL
6
a French knight. He negotiated to buy Rhodes
dissected to reveal
in 1522. The Villaret
name lives on in KEY
Villaré, one of
the island’s 1 First Cross-Vaulted 5 The battlements and heavy 8 The First Chamber,
and reconstructions of
an intricately decorated, early 6 Entrance to Ancient Rhodes Rhodes exhibition
Christian mosaic of the 5th exhibition (see p194) (see p194)
Laocoön Chamber century AD from Kos. 0 Grand staircase
7 The Chamber of the Nine
A copy of the sculpture of the death of the Trojan,
DISCOVERING THE
GREEK ISLANDS
The following tours have been designed to be followed individually or combined to
take in as many of the region’s highlights as form a longer city break-style tour. Next come
possible, while keeping long-distance travel three island-hopping tours, covering the
to a minimum. The first tour covers two days Ionian Islands; the Sporades, Evvoia and the
in Athens, with a trip to Salamína, one of the Northeast Aegean Islands; and the Cyclades
picturesque Argo-Saronic Islands. This is and Dodecanese Islands. Extra suggestions are
followed by a three-day tour in Rhodes, provided for those who want to extend their
and then a four-day tour in Crete, Greece’s stay. Pick, combine and follow your favourite
southernmost island. These itineraries can tours, or simply dip in and out and be inspired.
Palaiokastrítsa
Corfu Town
Key Pélekas
CORFU
3 Days in Rhodes
PAXOS
Gáïos
4 Days in Crete MAINLAND SKIATHOS
ALONISSOS
ANTIPAXOS Skiáthos Town
7 Days around the GREECE Skópelos
Ionian Islands Town
Lefkáda Loutrá Aidipsoú
7 Days around the Sporades, Evvoia LEFKADA Nydrí Paralía
and Northeast Aegean Islands Límni
Vasilikí Kýmis
7 Days around the Cyclades and Fiskárdo EVVOIA
ITHACA
Dodecanese Islands Vathý Chalkída
KEFALLONIA
Erétria
Argostóli Sámi
Pessáda
Athens
Agios Nikólaos
Zákynthos Town
ZAKYNTHOS Vasilikós
Peninsula
Mólyvos
Sígri Mytilíni
Agiásos
0 km 50
Skýros Town LESVOS
Linariá 0 miles 50 7 Days around the
SKYROS Sporades, Evvoia
CHIOS
and Northeast
Néa Móni
Chíos Town
Aegean Islands
Mastic Villages
•
Be captivated by the beauty
Aegean of Loutrá Aidipsoú, a
ANDROS
Sea
picturesque belle époque
TINOS spa in northern Evvoia.
Mýkonos
MYKONOS •
Explore the remains of a
SYROS
DELOS
once prosperous city at
Náxos Town Ancient Erétria.
Paroikiá Apeíranthos
SIFNOS PAROS NAXOS Kos Town •
Admire the cube-shaped
Zía homes on Skýros, in the
KOS
MILOS Sporades, and enjoy the
SÝMI
Oía
NISYROS
Rhodes island’s tranquillity as
TILOS Petaloúdes Ialyssós darkness falls.
SANTORINI Firá
Skála Kameírou Eptá Pigés
Stegná
•
Stroll along the time-warped
Monólithos lanes of Skópelos town.
Líndos
RHODES
•
Marvel at the kalývia
farmhouses set in rural
Sea of Crete KARPATHOS
Skópelos.
Réthymno
•
Soak up the atmosphere
Irákleio
of the medieval mastic
Plakiás Agios
Knosós
Nikólaos villages of Chíos, and
Górtys
Agía admire the nearby Néa
Galíni Phaestos
Mátala
Moní monastery, with
CRETE
its mosaics.
•
Experience the spectacular
sunset from western Lésvos.
•
Relax on the ferry crossing
from Linariá to Alónissos
The characteristic blue and skirting the Sporades
and white rooftops Marine Park.
of Santoríni
12 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
2 Days in Athens
•
Arriving Elefthérios
Venizélos International
Airport lies around 27 km
(17 miles) from Athens’ city
centre. A metro service
connects the airport with
Plateía Syntágmatos and
Monastiráki; express bus
line X95 also calls at Plateía
Syntágmatos. Taxis operate
from outside the terminal.
Athens can also be reached The Porch of the Caryatids at the Acropolis, Athens
by road and rail, and by boat
via the port of Piraeus. out for the beautiful Agios
Nikólaos Ragavás, which dates
3 Days in Rhodes
•
Transport The main sights
are all within easy walking from the 11th century. Head
distance; the city also has towards Plateía Syntágmatos •
Arriving Diagoras Airport
an efficient bus network. and stop at one of the many is located in Paradísi,
tavernas or restaurants for dinner. around 15 km (10 miles)
•
Booking ahead Many from Rhodes town. A
museums are closed on municipal bus to Rhodes
Day 2
Mondays; the Benáki is town operates all day and
Morning Make for Monastiráki
closed on Tuesdays, too. into the night; taxis can be
(p296), famous for its flea market,
the nearby ruins of the Ancient found outside the terminal.
Day 1 Agora (pp296–7) and the Roman •
Transport The main sights
Morning Start the day at the Forum. Among the ruins at the of Rhodes town are all
Acropolis (pp298–300). As you Forum is the octagonal Tower of within walking distance,
follow the winding path up the Winds. Continue east along while the island is best
from the entrance, stop to Ermoú to Plateía Syntágmatos explored by car.
admire the Theatre of Herodes for metro transport to Piraeus •
Booking ahead Some
Atticus, built between AD 161 and a short ferry ride to Paloúkia,
remote archaeological sites
and 174. Ascend the steps on Salamína (p106).
are closed on Mondays.
to the Propylaia, taking a
moment to admire the Temple Afternoon Head to Salamína
of Athena Nike, before seeing town, with its choice of tavernas, Day 1
the mighty Parthenon ahead. and on to the enchanting Morning Start your day in
Later, make your way back 17th-century monastery of Rhodes Old Town (pp192–9).
down to the pedestrianized Faneroménis. Trace your steps Visit the 14th-century Palace of
Dionysiou Areopagitou, turn back to Paloúkia for your the Grand Masters (pp196–7)
right and follow it downhill return to Athens. and stroll down charming Odós
for a selection of lunchtime Ippotón, also known as the
restaurants along Adrianoú. To extend your trip… Street of the Knights (pp198–9).
Explore the other Argo-
Afternoon Head for Pláka (p297). Saronic Islands: Aígina Afternoon After lunch, head to
The historic heart of Athens is a and its splendid Temple of the Archaeological Museum
labyrinth of tiny, picturesque Aphaia, laid-back Póros, (p194), housed in the Knights’
lanes full of old buildings housing Hydra and Spétses. Gothic-style former hospital.
cafés and souvenir shops. Look Next, relax with a little people-
watching in Plateía Ippokrátous
(p192), just inside the imposing
Marine Gate, before dinner.
Day 2
Morning While away an hour
or so at Mandráki harbour
(p200), in Rhodes New Town,
before taking the coastal road to
explore the western side of the
island. The first stop is Ancient
Ialyssós (p202), with its Temple
View across the bay towards Salamína town on Salamína, in the Argo-Saronic Islands of Athena Polias and Zeus Poliefs.
For practical information on travelling around the Greek islands, see pp362–9
DISCOVERING THE GREEK ISLANDS 13
7 Days around the 40 minutes. You should have time 7 Days around the
Ionian Islands to explore Vathý and the bustling Sporades, Evvoia
hill-village of Stavrós before and Northeast
Arriving The Aktion taking a ferry back to Sámi. Aegean Islands
•
Day 4
There’s a daily ferry (twice a day
in July and August) from Linariá
to Paralía Kýmis, which then
continues to Alónnisos (p124)
and Skópelos (pp122–3) during
the summer. It’s a lengthy
crossing (about 6.5 hours to
Skópelos), but it gives you a full
afternoon to explore this green,
unspoiled island where you
can stay overnight. Spend the
The stunning Blue Caves on the north of Zákynthos island remaining daylight at one of the
For practical information on travelling around the Greek islands, see pp362–9
DISCOVERING THE GREEK ISLANDS 15
Best Beaches
The beaches of the Greek islands are unmatched for
sheer variety (see p346), from shimmering pink sand
lapped by turquoise waves on Crete, to white pebbled
coves that plunge into indigo sea on Zákynthos, and
the black volcanic coast of Santoríni.
Meltémi wind buffets the Aegean Islands especially
in summer, but the islands enjoy clear skies and dry
Mýrtos Bay, Kefalloniá, made famous
heat. The Ionian beaches have a gentler north-west by the novel-turned-film Captain
wind. In both areas sheltered beaches are better for Corelli’s Mandolin, is the most striking
sun worshipers and exposed beaches are better for of the white pebble beaches. Drawing
visitors of all ages, this unspoiled pearl
wind sports. To help you choose which island to visit,
arc drops into electric-blue sea.
see the table on page 23.
Bísti beach, Hydra, an
Voutoumi beach, Antípaxos, is innately beautiful and
Myrtiótissa, Corfu, is, an unspoiled gem accessible by taxi tranquil pebble beach,
according to author boat from Paxós. Its appeal is seclusion is accessible by taxi boat
Lawrence Durrell, the with a backdrop of emerald forest, or trekking. Snorkelling
“loveliest beach in the pristine sand and cerulean sea. here is a must.
world” (see p92). Blonde
sand, calm seas and
verdant cliffs draw a mix
of families and nudists. Corfu
There is a superb cliff-
top taverna serving
Corfiot specialties.
THE IONIAN MAINL AND
THE SPORADES
ISLANDS GREECE AND EVVOIA
Evvoia
Kefalloniá
Athens
Zákynthos
Navagio Bay,
Zákynthos, is a Hydra
deep indigo cove with
white sand backed by
THE ARGO-
vertiginous limestone
cliffs. Boat-only access SARONIC
and a mysterious ISLANDS Mílos
skeleton of a wrecked
cargo ship enhance
the appeal (see p101).
Kýthira
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 100
Rethymno
Samothráki
Límnos
THE NORTHEAST
AEGEAN ISLANDS
Seychelles, Ikaría, is
Lésvos known as the Jamaica of
Greece. The pebbled cove
has extraordinary cobalt
water and bizarre granite
rock formations.
Kolibíthra Bay,
Tínos Chíos
Kátergo,
Folégandos
Kárpathos
Irakleio
CRETE
Cultural Highlights
Strategically positioned between Europe, North
Africa and the Middle East, the Greek islands have
been desired throughout history, and are rich in
cultural sights left behind by those who occupied
and inhabited them. Visitors can amble through
Palace of Knosós, Crete Sung of by Homer
storied archaeological sites such as the prehistoric in his poem Odyssey, the palace (see pp282–
Minoan Palace of Knosós on Crete (see pp282–5) 5), with a labyrinth to imprision the Minotaur,
and the mythical birthplace of Apollo at Delos was considered myth until archaeologists
(see pp228–9). Later civilisations from Byzantine excavated the Bronze Age complex in 1878.
(see pp48–9) to Venetian and Ottoman (see pp50–51)
left a legacy of UNESCO-ranked architecture.
The table on page 23 shows where to find the
most significant sights.
Viticulture
The civilizations of the Greek islands have been making and trading wines since the Neolithic Age.
A taste of wine from the indigenous grape varieties is like drinking the distilled essence of each island.
Santoríni is known for honey-hued vinsánto from native Assyrtiko grapes. On Crete, Plytó produces
structured whites; Mandilaria and Kotsifali create fruity, tannic reds. Amorgiano reds dominate on Rhodes,
while Robóla is the distinguished grape on Kefalloniá, yielding whites with floral aromas and a citrusy finish.
Crete Rhodes
1 Lyrarakis Winery (Alagni, 1 CAIR (2nd km Rhodes-
69810 50681, open Apr–Oct). Lindos Ave, 22410 68770-3).
Rare local varieties. Superb sparkling white wine.
2 Boutari Skalani Hills (Skalani, 2 Emery Winery (Kolokotroni
8, 22410 29111-3). Red wines
Heraklion, 28107 31617). from Amorgiano grapes.
Cretan varieties.
Santoríni
Kefalloniá
1 Estate Argryos (Episkopi
1 Gentilini Winery (2 km past Gonia, 22860 31489). Vinsánto
Lássi, 26710 41618). Family- producers since 1903.
owned vineyard producing 2 Gaiá (open May–Oct).
Robóla wines. Wild-fermented Assyrtiko. Field of grapes, Santoríni
DISCOVERING THE GREEK ISLANDS 19
Outdoor Activities
An excursion away from the port reveals the delightful
characteristics of island life. Walking routes range from seaside
trails to ancient footpaths connecting quaint villages. Most
islands are hilly; fit travellers can explore by bicycle. Driving is
the quickest way to take in the diverse terrain on large islands.
The table on page 23 lists the best islands for outdoor activities. Path at Samariá Gorge, Crete
Walking
Hikers flock to the Greek islands for
unequalled walking routes for every level
of fitness (see p343), ranging from steep
ascents up volcanic rock to rural strolls
connecting picturesque villages and
terraced vineyards. Path types include
maintained coast to coast hiking trails
as well as archaic cobblestone footpaths
called kalderimi. The best period to
walk is between April and June before Crete The 16km (10mile) Samariá Gorge trail (see pp264–5) on Crete
is the most soughtafter hiking experience of the islands. Despite the
it’s overwhelmingly hot and when the crowds, the wild appeal of the World Biosphere Reserve, including
wildflowers are in bloom. September jagged narrow walls, the White Mountains, endangered krikri goats and
can also be pleasant. a finish at the ancient seaside village Agía Rouméli, make it worthwhile.
Sporades The uncrowded Ionians The 220km (137mile) Cyclades The Cyclades, particularly Kéa, Náxos, Andros
kalderimi on Skiáthos and Corfu trail from Corfu town and Amorgós, offer walkers easy pleasures. Historic
Skópelos are exceptional through the central country paths are signposted and include rambles past ancient
routes among pine forests, side to Mount Pantokrátor temples and fertile fields, from whitewashed villages
wild flowers and orchards has everything from UNESCO to beaches. Santoríni’s popular 11km (7mile) caldera
that often finish with architecture to lush forest trail from Firá to Oía, along the edge of its waterfilled
sparkling sea views. and dunes. volcanic crater, is an extraordinary hiking experience.
Cycling
The islands offer varied terrain for cyclists. Rugged slopes
draw mountain bikers; most islands are hilly and ideal
for intermediate road bikers. There are a few flat land
scapes where casual cyclists can beach hop. Bike rental
companies (see pp344–5) offer tours; it’s also common
to choose a selfguided route. Cycling in July and August
is illadvised due to the unrelenting sun and blustery wind. Mountain biking The lush, forested trails of
Thásos in the Northeastern Aegeans and Corfu
in the Ionians are favourites with mountain bikers.
Scenic Drives
Driving is the best option to explore
the unforgettable landscapes on the Turkey
Mainland
larger Greek islands as well as the less Greece
Beach
AE
touristed spots, where connections
GE
using public transportation are limited. Hopping
AN
SEA
Architecture
Island Life
Beach Hopping
Small and unspoiled Lefkáda (see p95) in the Ionians
connects to mainland Greece via a drawbridge and is
ideal for beach hopping along the island’s gorgeous
west coast. Azure sea and wild cliff-backed beaches
are characteristic. From north to south, stand-out
beauties include Agios Nikítas, Mylos, Egremní,
Pórto Katsíki and finally Cape
Lefkáda, where lovelorn poet Pórto Katsíki beach,
Sappho allegedly killed herself. with its clear blue sea
Architecture
Chíos (see pp156–63) in the Northeast Aegean Islands
dazzles with 24 intricate, fortified Mastic villages (see
pp158–9) built by the Genoese. Start with the grey and
white geometrically decorated houses of Pyrgí, then
head north to Olýmpi and the best-preserved village,
Mestá. Continue northeast to explore the UNESCO
Byzantine Monastery of Néa Moní (see pp160–61)
ending at white-sand
Striking geometric designs Elínta beach near
adorn many buildings in Pyrgí Avgónyma (see p162).
Coastal Scenery
Cliff-top roads unfurl along coastlines with spellbinding pano-
ramas of jagged coasts and dazzling blue sea. Stand out
routes include the 30-km (19-mile) journey from Vathý to
Karlóvasi on Sámos (see pp164–7) in the Northeast Aegeans,
the 20-km (12-mile) route from Aegiáli to Chóra on Amorgós
(see p243) with its white villages and windmills, and the brief
but breathtaking road from Kara-
vostási to Livádi on Folégandros A windmill on the coast
(see p245) in the Cyclades. overlooking Chóra, Amorgós
22 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
Water Sports
The Greek islands offer so much more than sultry sunbathing.
With many spots even more stunning from vantage points
at sea, and a strong infrastructure for water sports, there’s
no reason to spend all day sitting on the beach.
Rare marine species, intensely vivid reefs, underwater
archaeological sites and coastal caves await exploration by
snorkelling, diving or boating. Many islands are renowned
worldwide for specific sports, such as surfing, windsurfing and
kiteboarding (see pp346–7). The Choosing Your Island table lists Windsurfing, a popular sport along the
the islands that are excellent for water sports. coasts of numerous islands
Wind-Powered Windsurfing
The northeasterly meltémi summer gusts create exemplary Náxos is a favourite among
conditions for windpowered sports. Sailing (see p347) is a great professional windsurfers. The
way to explore, with the added appeal of escaping the crowds winds are powerful; the water
and dropping anchor in a hidden cove. Windsurfing and is flat. The narrow passage bet
kiteboarding (see p346) attract thrill seekers. ween Náxos and Páros is ideal
for this sport. Laguna Beach Park
TOP WIND-POWERED at the base of the lagoon, and
SPORTS: Pláka beach are the prime spots.
Sailing
Particularly gorgeous routes Kiteboarding
include Corfu to Antípaxos Every summer Kárpathos hosts
and Lefkáda to Ithaca in the an international kiteboarding
lush green Ionians, as well as competition. The bays of Afiartis
Rhodes to volcanic Nísyros on the southern coast are wave
in the Dodecanese Islands free with 6–8 Beafuort winds
Sailing off Voutoumi beach, Antípaxos of the Aegean. creating worldclass conditions.
DISCOVERING THE GREEK ISLANDS 23
Outdoor Activites
Water Sports
Beaches
Cultural Highlights
Outdoor Activities
Kraków
CZECH POLAND
Putting Greece on the Map REPUBLIC
Brno
Košice
Occupying the southernmost tip of the Balkan S L OVA K I A
peninsula, Greece divides into over 2,000 islands Vienna
Dunav
11 million people, with a third of these in Athens.
HUNGARY Szeged
Ljubljana
Milano Zagreb
Torino Venezia
Trieste D r av a Timişoara
Po C R OA T I A
Genova
Bologna Sava
Belgrade
BOS NIA AND
Nice
Pisa Firenze HERZEGOVINA
SERBIA
Sarajevo
Ancona
Drin a
Split
Calvi Bastia
Nis̆
MONTENEGRO
Ajaccio
Corsica I TA LY Adriatic
KOSOVO
Sea Dubrovnik
Podgorica
Rome Skopje
Olbia REPUBLIC OF
Tirana MACEDONIA
Bari
Napoli
Taranto Brindisi
Sardinia ALBANIA
Tyrrhenian
Ioánnina
Cagliari Sea Corfu
Igoumenítsa
Préveza
Palermo Messina
Trapani
Kefalloniá Pátra
Reggio di
Calabria
Kyllini
Zákynthos
SICILY Catania
Tunis
Ionian
Sea Kalamáta
TUNISIA
Sousse Valletta
M A LTA
Sfax
Mediterranean
Sea
Key
Motorway Tripoli
Major road Banghāzi
Railway line LIBYA
Ferry route
National boundary
D
nis
te Europe and FINLAND
UKRAINE
r NORWAY
SWEDEN
North Africa ESTONIA
RUSSIAN
NORTH LATVIA FEDERATION
Chernivtsi SEA DENMARK LITHUANIA
UNITED RUSSIAN FED
KINGDOM
Pru REP. OF BELARUS
t IRELAND NETHERLANDS POLAND
MOLDOVA BELGIUM
GERMANY
CZECH
Chisinau REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
UKRAINE
AUSTRIA
SWITZ. HUNGARY MOLDOVA
AT L A N T I C FRANCE SLOV.
Cluj-Napoca CROATIA ROMANIA
OCEAN
BOSNIASERBIA
ITALY HERZ.
ROMANIA
P r ut
ALGERIA
Constanța LIBYA EGYPT SAUDI
ARABIA
Duna
rea
Varna
Iskür
BULGARIA B l a c k S e a
Sofia
Burgas
Istanbul
ak
Kavála
Alexandroúpoli m
Ir
Thessaloníki il
K iz
Bursa
Eskisehir Ankara
GREECE
Vólos
A
eg
Skiáthos Lésvos
TURKEY
ea
n
Izmir
Se
Evvoia
a
Athens Isparta
Sámos Kusadasi Konya
Piraeus
Tínos
Mýkonos Pátmos
Adana
Bodrum Antalya
Dalaman Içel
Kos
0 miles 200
ISRAEL
Alexandria EGYPT
INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS 27
A PORTRAIT OF THE
GREEK ISLANDS
Greece is one of the most visited European countries, but also one of the least
known. At a geographical crossroads, the modern Greek state dates only from
1830, and combines elements of the Balkans, Middle East and Mediterranean.
altered the country’s political landscape, Now the lifeblood of many islands,
the Greek parliament has passed many tourism has only been crucial since
austerity bills, and protests have become the late 1960s. While some of the
common sights throughout the country. islands’ tourist facilities owe much to a
In 2014 its government announced that megadevelopment ethos and permit-
its austerity measures and EU bailouts granting policy
have put the country back on course formulated under the
for a return to economic growth. Junta, subsequent
Tourism ranks as the largest hard developments have
currency earner, compensating for an appearance that
the depression in world shipping and is more in harmony
the fact that Mediterranean agricultural with their natural
products are duplicated within the EU. surroundings. In order to
Festival bread from
attract higher spenders, Chaniá’s covered market
many farmhouses, on Crete
cottages and town
houses have been renovated since the
early 2000s to form luxury and boutique
hotels. Yacht marinas and spas have
been developed and, increasingly,
special-interest tourism has been
catered for. The fact that the Greek state
is less than 200 years old and in the years
since 1922 has been politically unstable
means that Greeks have very little faith
in government institutions. Everyday life
operates on networks of personal
friendships and official contacts. The
classic political designations of Right and
Left only acquired their conventional
Threshing with donkeys in the Cyclades meanings in Greece as late as the 1930s.
A PORTRAIT OF THE GREEK ISLANDS 31
Single
entrance
Corner fireplace
Choklákia pebble
mosaic floors are
characteristic of
the Dodecanese.
Thatched roof
Windmills are found on
most of the islands in the The masts and roof section
Cyclades and Dodecanese could be rotated to face the
that grew their own grain. prevailing wind.
The mills functioned principally
between July and September, after
the harvest. Few work today, except as Stone walls
living museums.
Marine Life
By oceanic standards, the Mediterranean and
Aegean are small, virtually landlocked seas with a
narrow tidal range. This means that relatively little
marine life is exposed at low tide, although coastal
plants and shoreline birds are often abundant.
However, if you snorkel close to the shore or dive The great pipefish’s elongated body
is easily mistaken for a piece of drifting
below the surface of the azure coastal waters, a seaweed. It lives among rocks, pebbles
wealth of plant and animal life can be found. The and weed, often in rather shallow water,
creatures range in size from myriad shoals of tiny and can be spotted when snorkelling.
fish and dainty sea slugs to giant marine turtles,
Mediterranean gull Masked crab
huge fish and imposing spider crabs. Sea
spurge
Tamarisk
Yellow-
horned
poppy
Fan mussels
Red mullet
Codium
Top Snorkelling Areas bursa
Sea balls
Sea horses are
surprisingly common
in the seas around
Greece. They often live
among beds of seagrass and
curl their tails around the plants
to provide a firm anchorage.
Unusually for fish, they show
parental care, the male having
a brood pouch in which he
incubates his offspring.
Pilchard
Bath sponge
Moray eel
Shore crab
Safety Tips for Snorkelling
A John Dory is a • Mediterranean storms can arrive out of nowhere
majestic sight as so seek local advice about weather and swimming
it patrols among conditions before you go snorkelling.
offshore rocks. • Do not go snorkelling if jellyfish are in the area.
It has a flattened, • Take your own snorkel and mask with you to
oval-shaped ensure you use one that fits properly.
body and long • Never snorkel unaccompanied.
rays on its dorsal fin. • Wear a T-shirt or wet suit to avoid sunburn.
Where the species is not • Avoid swimming near river mouths and harbours.
persecuted or exploited, The waters will be cloudy and there may be risks
some individuals can from boats and pollution.
become remarkably • Always stick close to the shore and check
confident and your position from time to time.
even inquisitive.
INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS 37
THE HISTORY
OF GREECE
The history of Greece is that of a nation, Ionian and Aegean seas. Eventually the
not of a land: the Greek idea of nationality realization that it was the democracy of
is governed by language, religion, descent Classical Athens that had inspired so many
and customs, not so much by location. revolutions abroad gave the Greeks them-
Early Greek history is the story of internal selves the courage to rebel and, in 1821,
struggles, from the Mycenaean and to fight the Greek War of Independence.
Minoan cultures of the Bronze Age to In 1830 the Great Powers that dominated
the competing city-states that emerged Europe established a protectorate over
in the 1st millennium BC. Greece, marking the end of Ottoman rule.
After the defeat of the Greek army by After almost a century of border disputes,
Philip II of Macedon at Chaironeia in 338 BC, Turkey defeated Greece in 1922. This was
Greece became absorbed into Alexander followed by the dictatorship of Metaxás,
the Great’s empire. With the defeat of the and then by the war years of 1940 to 1944,
Macedonians by the Romans in 168 BC, during which half a million people were
Greece became a province of Rome. As part killed. The present boundaries of the
of the Eastern Empire she was ruled from Greek state have only existed since 1948,
Constantinople and became a powerful when Italy returned the Dodecanese.
element within the new Byzantine world. Greece is now an established democracy
In 1453, when Constantinople fell to the and member of the European Union. Since
Ottomans, Greece disappeared as a political 2008, the country has been in recession
entity. The Venetian republic quickly estab- and as a result, has seen its industry sector
lished fortresses on the coast and islands shrink with high unemployment rates.
in order to compete with the Ottomans for EU bailouts and austerity measures are
control of the important trade routes in the gradually helping the economy to recover.
A map of Greece from the 1595 Atlas of Abraham Ortelius called Theatrum Orbis Terrarum
The Knights of the Order of St John from a 15th-century history of the siege of Rhodes
38 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
Prehistoric Greece
During the Bronze Age three separate civilizations flourished
in Greece: the Cycladic, during the 3rd millennium; the
Minoan, based on Crete but with an influence that spread
throughout the Aegean Islands; and the Mycenaean, which
was based on the mainland but spread to Crete in about
1450 BC, when the Minoans went into decline. Both the
Minoan and Mycenaean cultures found their peak in the Prehistoric Greece
Palace periods of the 2nd millennium, when they were Areas settled in the Bronze Age
Cycladic Figurine
Marble statues such as this,
produced in the Bronze Age from
about 2800 to 2300 BC, have been
found in a number of
tombs in the Cyclades.
Multistorey houses
Minoan Bathtub
Sarcophagus
This type of coffin, dating
to 1400 BC, is found only
in Minoan art. It was probably
used for a high-status burial.
2800–2300 Kéros-Sýros
200,000 Evidence culture flourishes in
of Palaeolithic civilization “Frying Pan” vessel Cyclades
in northern Greece from Sýros 2000 Building of palaces begins in
and Thessaly (2500–2000 BC) Crete, initiating First Palace period
THE HISTORY OF GREECE 39
Cyclopean Walls
Mycenaean citadels,
as this one at Tiryns in
the Peloponnese, were
encircled by walls of
stone so large that later
civilizations believed
they had been built
by giants. It is unclear
whether the walls were
used for defence or
just to impress.
Bronze greaves
protected the legs.
Hoplite Warriors
The “Chigi” vase from Corinth, dating to about
750 BC, is one of the earliest clear depictions of
Solon (640–558 BC) the new style of warfare that evolved at that
Solon was appointed to the period. This required rigorously trained and
highest magisterial position heavily armed infantrymen called hoplites to
in Athens. His legal, fight in a massed formation or phalanx. The rise
economic and political of the city-state may be linked to the spirit of
reforms heralded equality felt by citizen hoplites fighting for their
democracy. own community.
900
Vase fragment Appearance of
showing bands of first Geometric
distinctive geometric pottery
line patterns
1100 Migrations of
different peoples
throughout the 1000–850 Formation of
Greek world the Homeric kingdoms
THE HISTORY OF GREECE 41
Gorgon’s head
decoration
Characteristic round
shields
770 Greeks 546 Persians gain control over 480 Athens destroyed by
start founding 750–700 Homer Ionian Greeks; Athens flourishes Persians who defeat
colonies in Italy, records epic tales under the tyrant Peisistratos Spartans at Thermopylae;
Egypt and of the Iliad Spartan votive and his sons Greek victory at Salamis
elsewhere and Odyssey figurine 479 Persians annihilated at Plataiai by
Athenians, Spartans and allies
42 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
Classical Greece
The Classical period has always been considered the
high point of Greek civilization. Around 150 years of
exceptional creativity in thinking, writing, theatre
and the arts produced the great tragedians Aeschylus,
Sophocles and Euripides as well as the great philosophical
thinkers Socrates, Plato and Aristotle. This was also a
Classical Greece, 440 BC
time of warfare and bloodshed, however. The Peloponnesian
Athens and her allies
War, which pitted the city-state of Athens and her allies
Sparta and her allies
against the city-state of Sparta and her allies, dominated
the 5th century BC. In the 4th century Sparta, Athens and
Thebes struggled for power only to be ultimately defeated
by Philip II of Macedon in 338 BC.
Theatre used in
Pythian Games
Temple of Apollo
Siphnian
Treasury
Fish Shop
This 4th-century-BC Greek painted
vase comes from Cefalù in Sicily.
Large parts of the island were
inhabited by Greeks who were
bound by a common culture,
religion and language.
Detail of the
Parthenon frieze 431–404 Peloponnesian War, c.424 Death
ending with the fall of Athens of Herodotus,
462 Ephialtes’s reforms pave the way and start of 33-year period of historian of the
for radical democracy in Athens Spartan dominance Persian Wars
451–429 Perikles
478 With the formation rises to prominence Bust of Herodotus,
of the Delian League, in Athens and probably of
Athens takes over launches a lavish 447 Construction of the Hellenistic origin
leadership of Greek cities building programme Parthenon begins
THE HISTORY OF GREECE 43
Where to See
Classical Greece
Athens is dominated by the
Acropolis and its religious build-
ings, including the Parthenon,
erected as part of Perikles’s
mid-5th-century-BC building
programme (see pp298–300).
The island of Delos (pp228–9),
the mythological birthplace of
Gold Oak Wreath from Vergína Artemis and Apollo, was the
By the mid-4th century BC, Philip II of Macedon centre for the Delian League,
dominated the Greek world through diplomacy the first Athenian naval league.
and warfare. This wreath comes from his tomb. The site contains examples of
5th-century-BC sculpture. On
Rhodes, the 4th-century Temple
of Lindian Athena at Líndos
(pp206–7) is well preserved.
Votive of the
Rhodians
Stoa of the
Athenians
Sacred Way
Athenian Treasury
Athena Lemnia
This Roman copy of a
statue by Pheidias
Slave Boy (400 BC) (c.490–c.430 BC), the
Slaves were fundamental sculptor-in-charge at
to the Greek economy the Acropolis, depicts
and used for all types the goddess protector
of work. Many slaves of Athens in an ideal
were foreign; this boot rather than realistic way,
boy came from as typical of the Classical
far as Africa. style in art.
Hellenistic Greece
Alexander the Great of Macedon fulfilled his father
Philip’s plans for the conquest of the Persians.
He went on to create a vast empire that extended
to India in the east and Egypt in the south. The
Hellenistic period was extraordinary for the dispersal
of Greek language, religion and culture throughout
the territories conquered by Alexander. It lasted
Relief of Hero-Worship (c.200 BC)
from after Alexander’s death in 323 BC until the Hero-worship was part of Greek religion.
Romans began to dismantle his empire in the mid- Alexander, however, was worshipped as a
2nd century BC. For Greece, Macedonian domination god in his lifetime.
was replaced by that of Rome in AD 168. Issus, in modern Turkey, was the
site of Alexander’s victory over
the Persian army in 333 BC.
Athens ASIA
MINOR
Issus
Me d i t e rra n e a n Se a
Ammon
The Ammon
oracle declared
Alexander to
be divine.
Terracotta Statue
This 2nd-century-BC
statue of two women KEY
gossiping is typical of a
Alexander’s route
Hellenistic interest in
private rather than Alexander’s empire
public individuals. Dependent regions
SOGDIANI
nS
Alexandropolis
ea
Taxil
BACTRIA Alexander’s army turned
back at the River Beas.
PERSIA
Susa
Persopolis
as
Be
INDIA
Pe
GEDROSIA
rs
ia
n
G
ul
Ara b i a n Se a
f
After the Romans gained control of Greece with the sack of ASIA
EPIRUS
Corinth in 146 BC, Greece became the cultural centre of the
Roman Empire. The Roman nobility sent their sons to be ACHAIA
Mithridates
In a bid to extend his
territory, this ruler of
Pontus, on the Black Sea,
led the resistance to
Roman rule in 88 BC. He
was forced to make peace
three years later.
Bouleuterion
Springs of
Peirene, the
source of water
Reconstruction of
Roman Corinth
Corinth, in the Peloponnese, was
Battle of Actium (31 BC) refounded and largely rebuilt by Julius
This detailed sardonyx cameo Caesar in 46 BC, becoming the capital
commemorates Octavian’s of the Roman province of Achaia. The
triumph over Mark Anthony Romans built the forum, covered theatre
at Actium, which marked the and basilicas. St Paul visited the city in Baths of
end of the Roman Republic. AD 50–51, working as a tent maker. Eurycles
100 BC AD 1 AD 100
170 Pausanias completes 324 Constantine becomes 395 Goths devastate Athens
Guide to Greece for sole emperor of Roman and Peloponnese
Roman travellers Empire and establishes his
381 Emperor Theodosius I
267 Goths capital in Constantinople
makes Christianity state
pillage Athens
religion
AD 200 AD 300
Under the Byzantine Empire, which at the end of the 4th • ATHENS
century succeeded the old Eastern Roman Empire, Greece
became Orthodox in religion and was split into administrative
themes. When the capital, Constantinople, fell to the Crusaders
in 1204 Greece was again divided, mostly between the Byzantine Greece in the
Venetians and the Franks. Constantinople and Mystrás were 10th Century
recovered by the Byzantine Greeks in 1261, but the Turks’
capture of Constantinople in 1453
marked the final demise of the Chapel
Byzantine Empire. It left a legacy
of hundreds of churches and a
wealth of religious art.
Watchtower
of Tsimiskís
Great Lavra
This monastery is the
earliest (AD 963) and
largest of the religious
complexes on Mount Athos
Two-Headed Eagle in northern Greece. Many
In the Byzantine world, the parts have been rebuilt, but its
emperor was also patriarch of appearance remains essentially
the church, a dual role Byzantine. The monasteries became
represented in this pendant important centres of learning and
of a two-headed eagle. religious art.
Refectory
Defence of Thessaloníki
The fall of Thessaloníki to the Saracens
in AD 904 was a blow to the Byzantine
Empire. Many towns in Greece were heavily
fortified against attack from this time.
Constantine
the Great Where to See
The first eastern
Byzantine and
emperor to recognize
Christianity, Constantine Crusader Greece
founded the city of In Athens, the Benáki Museum
Constantinople in AD (see p301) contains icons,
324. Here he is shown metalwork, sculpture and tex-
with his mother, Helen. tiles. On Pátmos, the treasury
of the Monastery of St John,
founded in 1088 (pp174–5),
is the richest outside Mount
Athos. The 11th-century
convent of Néa Moní on Chíos
Cypress tree (pp160–61) has magnificent
of Agios Christ Pantokrátor gold-ground mosaics. The
Athanásios This 14th-century fresco of medieval architecture of the
Christ as ruler of the world is Palace of the Grand Masters
in the Byzantine city and (pp196–7) and the Street of the
monastic centre of Mystrás. Knights (pp198–9) on Rhodes
is particularly fine. Buildings by
the Knights on Kos (pp180–83)
are also worth seeing. The
Venetian castle on Páros (p237)
dates from 1260.
Fortified walls
Chapel of Agios
Athanásios, founder The katholikón, the main church
of Great Lávra in Great Lávra, has the most
Combined library magnificent Byzantine murals
on Mount Athos.
and treasury
Cretan Painting
This 15th-century icon is typical
of the style developed by Greek
artists in the School of Crete,
active until the Ottomans took
Crete in 1669.
Shipping
Greek merchants traded Where to See
throughout the Ottoman Venetian and Ottoman
Empire. By 1800 there
were merchant colonies Architecture
in Constantinople The Ionian Islands are particularly
and as far afield as rich in buildings dating from the
London and Odessa. Venetian occupation. The Old Town
This 19thcentury of Corfu (see pp84–9) is dominated
embroidery shows the by its two Venetian fortresses. The
Turkish influence on castle in Zákynthos (p100) is also
Greek decorative arts. Venetian. Crete has a number of
Venetian buildings: the old port of
Irákleio (pp278–9) and some of the
backstreets of Chaniá (pp262–3)
The Knights of St John defied convey an overwhelming feeling
the Turks until 1522. of Venice. Irákleio’s fort (p278) with
stood the Great Siege (1648–69).
Some Ottomanera houses survive
in Theológos (p141) on Thásos.
Several mosques and other
Ottoman buildings, including a
library and hammam (baths), can
The massive
fortifications
be seen in Rhodes Old Town
eventually (pp192–9).
succumbed to
Turkish artillery.
The Knights
supported Turkish
rebel, Prince Cem.
1684 Venetians 1778 Ali Pasha becomes Vizier of Ioánnina 1801 Frieze on
reconquer the and establishes powerful state in Albania Parthenon
Peloponnese and northern Greece removed by
Lord Elgin
Parthenon
blown up 1814 Foundation of Filikí Etaireía, Greek liberation movement
52 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
Massacre at Chíos
This detail of Delacroix’s shocking
painting Scènes de Massacres de
Scio shows the events of 1822,
when Turks took savage revenge
for an earlier killing of Muslims.
Weapons were family
heirlooms or donated
by philhellenes.
1827 Battle 1828 Ioánnis Kapodístrias 1862 Revolution drives 1874 Heinrich
King Otto (ruled
of Navaríno becomes first President of Greece King Otto from Greece Schliemann
1832–62)
begins
1821 Greek flag of independence 1864 New constitution makes Greece a excavation of
raised on 25 March; Greeks massacre “crowned democracy”; Greek Orthodoxy Mycenae
Turks at Tripolitsá in Morea made the state religion
THE HISTORY OF GREECE 53
Life in Athens
By 1836 urban Greeks Where to See
still wore a mixture of
Greek traditional and
19th-Century Greece
Western dress. The In Crete, Moní Arkadíou (see
Ottoman legacy p270) is the site of mass suicide
had not totally by freedom fighters in 1866;
disappeared and the tomb of Venizélos is at
is visible in the fez Akrotíri (p261). The harbour
worn by men. and surrounding buildings at
Sýros (p230) are evidence of
the importance of Greek sea-
power in the 19th century.
Flag Raising of 1821 Revolution
In 1821, the Greek secret society Filikí Etaireía was behind
a revolt by Greek officers which led to anti-Turk uprisings
throughout the Peloponnese. Tradition credits Archbishop
Germanós of Pátra with raising the rebel flag near Kalávryta in
the Peloponnese on 25 March. The struggle for independence
had begun.
Corinth Canal
This spectacular link between
the Aegean and Ionian seas
opened in 1893.
Elefthérios Venizélos
This great Cretan politician and
advocate of liberal democracy
doubled Greek territory during the
Balkan Wars (1912–13) and joined
the Allies in World War I.
Modern Greece
The years after the 1922 defeat by Turkey were
terrible ones for Greek people. The influx of refugees
contributed to the political instability of the interwar
years. The dictatorship of Metaxás was followed by
invasion in 1940, then Italian, German and Bulgarian
occupation and, finally, the Civil War between 1946
and 1949, with its legacy of division. After experiencing
the Cyprus problem of the 1950s and the military
dictatorship of 1967 to 1974, Greece is now an 1947 Internationally acclaimed Greek
artist Giánnis Tsaroúchis holds his first
established democracy and became a member of exhibition of set designs, in the Romvos
the European Economic and Monetary Union in 2000. Gallery, Athens
1958 USSR threatens
1938 Death of 1946
Greece with economic
sculptor Giannoúlis Government
sanctions if NATO
Chalepás, best known institutes “White
missiles installed
for his Sleeping Girl Terror” against
funerary statue Communists
1951
1955 Greek
Greece Cypriots start
1939 Greece
enters campaign of
declares NATO violence in
neutrality at Cyprus
start of World against
War II 1948
British rule
Dodecanese
1932 Aristotle Onassis becomes part
purchases six freight of Greece
ships, the start of his
shipping empire
1925 Mános
Chatzidákis,
who wrote
music for the
film Never
on Sunday, 1946–9 Civil War between Greek
is born government and the Communists,
who take to the mountains
2014 As
1993 Andréas conditions
2002 Drachma replaced
Papandréou wins in war-torn
by the euro at the
Greek general Syria worsen,
beginning of March
election for the Greece’s eastern
third time 2004 The Olympic frontier islands
1981 Melína Merkoúri Games take place and mainland
appointed Minister of in Athens see the arrival
Culture. Start of of hundreds of
campaign to restore 1994 Because of the 2010 The thousands of
Elgin Marbles to Greece choking smog (néfos), economic crisis refugees fleeing
central Athens introduces obliges an the conflict. They
traffic restrictions application for are joined by
support to the Iraqis, Afghans,
1974 Cyprus is International Pakistanis, Sri
partitioned after Monetary Fund Lankans and
Turkish invasion and the Eurozone Eritreans
1975 1985 1995 2005 2015
1996 Andréas
Papandréou dies;
Kóstas Simítis
succeeds him
56 INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS
May
Participants at a workers’ rally in Athens on Labour Day, 1 May Protomagiá, May Day or
Labour Day (1 May).
that takes place in Chalkída the Holy Mother. Name day for Traditionally, wreaths made
on Evvoia. Evángelos and Evangelía. with wild flowers and garlic
Independence Day and are hung up to ward off evil.
Evangelismós (25 Mar). April In major towns and cities,
A national holiday, with Megáli Evdomáda, Holy the day is marked by
parades and dances Week (Apr or May), including workers’ demonstrations
nationwide to and rallies.
celebrate the 1821 Agios Konstantínos
revolt against the kai Agía Eléni (21 May).
Ottoman Empire. A nationwide celebration
The religious for the saint and his mother,
festival, one of the who were the first Orthodox
Orthodox church’s Byzantine rulers.
most important, Análipsi, Ascension (40
marks the days after Easter, usually in
Archangel Gabriel’s May). This is an important
announcement to Orthodox feast day that
the Virgin Mary that is celebrated all across
she was to become Kite-flying competition in Chalkída, Evvoia the nation.
June
Pentikostí, Pentecost, or Whit
Sunday (seven weeks after
Orthodox Easter). An important
Orthodox feast day, celebrated
throughout Greece.
Agíou Pnévmatos, Feast of the
Holy Spirit, or Whit Monday (the
following day). A national holiday.
Athens Festival (mid-Jun to
mid-Sep), Athens. A cultural
festival with modern and
Harvesting barley in July, on the island ancient theatre and music.
of Folégandros Klídonas (24 Jun) Chaniá,
Crete (see pp262–3). A festival
celebrating the custom of
Summer water-divining for a husband. Festivities on Tínos for Koímisis tis
With islands parched and An amusing song is sung Theotókou, 15 August
sizzling, the tourist season is while locals dance.
now in full swing. Villagers Agios Ioánnis, St John’s Day areas, with feasts to honour
with rooms to let meet (24 Jun). On some islands this saint. She is revered as an
backpackers from the ferries, bonfires are lit on the evening important protector of crops
and prices go up. The islands before. May wreaths are and healer of snakebites. There
are sometimes cooled by consigned to the flames and are festivals throughout Crete
the strong, blustery youngsters jump over and at the town of Agía
meltémi, a the fires. Marína, Léros (see p177).
northerly Agioi Apóstoloi Profítis Ilías, the Prophet Elijah
wind from the Pétros kai Pávlos, (18–20 Jul). There are high-
Aegean, which Apostles Peter and altitude celebrations in the
can blow up Paul (29 Jun). There Cyclades, Rhodes and on
at any time to are festivals at dedi- Evvoia at the mountaintop
disrupt ferry cated churches, such chapels dedicated to him. The
schedules and as St Paul’s Bay, Líndos, chapels were built on former
delight windsurfers. Consecrated bread for Rhodes (see p207). sites of Apollo temples.
In June, the corn religious festivals Agioi Apóstoloi, Holy Agíou Panteleïmonos Festival
is harvested and Apostles (30 Jun). This (25–28 Jul), Tílos (see p187).
cherries, apricots and peaches time the celebrations are for Three days of song and dance
are at their best. In July herbs anyone named after one of at Moní Agíou Panteleïmonos,
are gathered and dried, and the 12 Apostles. culminating in “Dance of the
figs begin to ripen. August Koupa”, or Cup, at Taxiárchis,
sees the mass exodus from July Megálo Chorió. There are also
Athens to the islands, Agios Nikódimos (14 Jul), celebrations at Moní Pana-
especially for the festival of Náxos town (see p240). A small chrántou, Andros (see p219).
the Assumption on 15 August. folk festival and procession for Simonídeia Festival (1–19
By late summer the first of the town’s patron saint. Aug), Kéa (see p233). A
the grapes have ripened, Agía Marína (17 Jul). This day celebration of the work of
while temperatures soar. is widely celebrated in rural the island’s famous lyric poet,
Simonides (556–468 BC), with
drama, exhibitions and dance.
Réthymno Festival (Jul and Aug),
Réthymno, Crete (see pp268–9).
The event includes a wine
festival and Renaissance fair.
August
Ippokráteia, Hippocrates
Cultural Festival (throughout
Aug), Kos (see pp180–81). Art
exhibitions are combined with
concerts and films, plus the
ceremony of the Hippocratic
Oath at the Asklepieion.
Dionysía Festival (first week
One of the many local church celebrations held during the summer, Síkinos of Aug), Náxos town (see p240).
THE GREEK ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 59
THE NORTHEAST
The Climate of the AEGEAN ISLANDS
Greek Islands 34
Throughout the islands, the tendency is for long, dry summers (93)
26
°C/ºF
and mild but rainy winters. The Dodecanese, Cyclades and the 23 (79)
17 17
THE IONIAN
Cretan coast are buffeted by a dry (73)
(63) 10 (63)
ISLANDS north wind called the meltémi, 5 (50)
which can blow up at any time (41) 0 (32)
between June and September, 8 12 7 3
hrs hrs hrs
37 moderating the high temperatures. hrs
(99) 29 28 11 50 96
°C/ºF 24 (84) mm mm mm mm
(75) 18 17 Average monthly month Apr Jul Oct Jan
(64) 14 (63) maximum temperature
9 (57)
5 Average monthly
(48)
(41)
THE SPORADES AND
minimum temperature EVVOIA
8 14 7 5
hrs hrs hrs hrs Average daily hours 45
54 0 91 153 of sunshine (113)
°C/ºF 34
mm mm mm mm Average monthly rainfall 33
THE (93) (91)
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
NORTHEAST 25
AEGEAN (77)
14
ISLANDS
(57)
1 4 -3
THE IONIAN (34) (39) (27)
ISLANDS THE
7 11 6 3
SPORADES
hrs hrs hrs hrs
AND EVVOIA
THE ARGO-SARONIC 32 2 36 41
ISLANDS mm mm mm mm
Athens month Apr Jul Oct Jan
42
(108) 37
32 (99)
°C/ºF (90) THE
21 THE CYCLADES
16 (70) ARGO-
(61) SARONIC THE
7
0 -4 ISLANDS DODECANESE
(45)
(32) (25)
8 12 6 4 0 km 100
hrs hrs hrs hrs
0 miles 100
23 6 51 62
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan CRETE
40
35 (104) 33
33
°C/ºF 30 31 °C/ºF 31
29 (95) (91)
°C/ºF 27 (91)
(86) (88) (88)
(84) 22
(81) 20 21
19 18
(70) 15 (72)
(68) 13 (66) (64) 12
10 (59)
(55) 8 (54) 7
(50) 6 5 5 -4
(46) (45)
(43) (41) (41) (25)
6 13 6 3 8 13 6 3 8 12 8 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
19 2 45 91 26 1 64 95 25 3 61 149
mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
ANCIENT
GREECE
Clymene, a
nymph and
daughter of
Helios, was
mother of
Prometheus,
creator of
mankind.
Relief depicting hydria carriers from the north frieze of the Parthenon, c.447–432 BC
GODS, GODDESSES AND HEROES 65
Aphrodite, the
goddess of love, was
born from the sea. Here
Hermes was the she has her son Eros
gods’ messenger. (Cupid) with her.
Greek Philosophers
The Athenian Socrates was recognized in the late 5th century BC as a moral arbiter. He wrote
nothing himself, but we know of his views through the “Socratic dialogues”, written by his pupil,
Plato, examining the concepts of justice, virtue and courage. Plato set up his academy in the suburbs
of Athens. His pupil, Aristotle, founded the Lyceum, to teach subjects from biology to ethics, and
helped to turn Athens into one of the first university cities. Between 1508 and 1511 Raphael painted
this vision of Athens in the Vatican.
Aristotle, author of the Ethics, had
Plato saw “the seat of a genius for scientific observation.
ideas” in heaven.
Euclid laid the rules of
Epicurus advocated geometry in around
the pursuit of 300 BC.
pleasure.
Socrates taught by debating his ideas. Diogenes, the Cynic, lived like a beggar.
70 ANCIENT GREECE
Temple Architecture
Temples were the most important public buildings in
ancient Greece, largely because religion was a central
part of everyday life. Often placed in prominent
positions, temples were also statements about
political and divine power. The earliest temples, in the
8th century BC, were built of wood and sun-dried
bricks. Many of their features were copied in marble Pheidias, sculptor of the Parthenon, at work
buildings from the 6th century BC onwards. The cult statue was of the
god or goddess to whom
Temple Construction The cella, or inner sanctum, the temple was dedicated.
housed the cult statue.
This drawing is of an idealized
Doric temple, showing how it The pediment, triangular in
shape, often held sculpture.
was built and used.
Metopes
could contain Doric
sculpture. capital
Caryatids,
or figures of Akroterion in the shape of a griffin
women, were The cella The entablature
used instead entrance was was everything
of columns at the east end. above the capitals.
in the
Erechtheion
at Athens’
Acropolis. In
Athens’ Agora
(see pp296–7),
tritons (half-
fish, half-
human
creatures) Acanthus
were used. leaf capital
72 ANCIENT GREECE
The Symposion
These episodes of mostly
male feasting and drinking
were also occasions for
playing the game of
kottabos. On the exterior
of this 5th-century-BC kylix
are depictions of men
holding cups, ready to flick
out the dregs at a target.
The Development of
Painting Styles
Vase painting reached its peak in
6th- and 5th-century BC Athens. In
the potter’s workshop, a fired vase
would be passed to a painter to be
decorated. Archaeologists have been
able to identify the varying styles of
many individual painters of both
black-figure and red-figure ware.
Eye cups
were given Vase Shapes
an almost
magical power by Almost all Greek vases were
the painted eyes. The made to be used; their
pointed base suggests shapes are closely related
that they were passed to their intended uses.
around during feasting. Athenian potters had about
20 different forms to choose
from. Below are some of
The rhyton, such as the most commonly made
This kylix is being
this one in the shape shapes and their uses.
held by one handle
by another woman
of a ram’s head, was a
feaster, ready to flick drinking vessel for watered-
out the dregs at a down wine. The scene of the The amphora
kottabos target. symposion around the rim was a two-
indicates when it would handled vessel
have been used. used to store
wine, olive oil
and foods pre-
This drinker holds aloft served in liquid
a branch of a vine, such as olives. It also held
symbolic of Dionysos’s dried foods.
presence at the party.
This krater
with curled
handles or
Striped cushions “volutes” is a
made reclining wide-mouthed
more comfortable. vase in which
the Greeks
mixed water with
their wine before
drinking it.
Corfu
Corfu
Kýthira
Aígina
Home to the spectacular and well-preserved
ancient Temple of Aphaia, Aígina (see pp106–9)
has a rich history due to its proximity to Athens.
Crete
The largest Greek island, Crete (see pp254–91)
encompasses historic cities, ancient Minoan
palaces, such as Knosós, and dramatic landscapes,
including the Samariá Gorge (right).
Palace of the Grand Masters and Mandráki harbour, Rhodes
T H E G R E E K I S L A N D S AT A G L A N C E 77
Delos
This tiny island (see pp228–9) is scattered with
the ruins of an important ancient city. From
its beginnings as a centre for the worship of
Apollo in 1000 BC until its sacking in the 1st
century AD, Delos was a thriving cultural and
religious centre.
Chíos
The Byzantine monastery of Néa Moní
in the centre of the island (see pp156–
63) contains beautiful mosaics,
which survived a severe
Thásos earthquake in 1881. The
Samothráki
mastic villages in the
south of the island
prospered from the
Límnos
wealth generated by
the medieval trade in
THE NORTHEAST mastic gum.
AEGEAN ISLANDS
(See pp134–167)
Lésvos Mytilíni
Skýros
THE SPORADES
AND EVVOIA
(See pp114–133) Chíos
Andros Sámos
Ikaría
THE CYCLADES
(See pp214–253) Léros
Náxos Pátmos
The “holy island” of
Kos Pátmos (see pp172–
Ios
5) is where St John
Mílos Sými
the Divine wrote the
Rhodes
THE DODECANESE book of Revelation.
Santoríni (See pp168–213) The Monastery of St John
Rhodes is a fortified complex of
churches and courtyards.
Kárpathos
Rethymno
Irakleio
CRETE Rhodes
(See pp254–291)
Rhodes town is
dominated by its walled
medieval citadel founded by
the crusading Knights of
St John. The island has many
fine beaches and, inland, some
0 kilometres 100
unspoiled villages and remote
0 miles 50 monasteries (see pp190–207).
THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 79
The Ionian Islands are the greenest and most fertile of all the island groups,
characterized by olive groves and cypresses. Lying off the west coast of
mainland Greece, these islands have been greatly influenced by Western
Europe, in part because the Turks never managed to gain control here,
except on the island of Lefkáda.
Watching from the shade as a ship comes into Sámi town, Kefalloniá
Tripitos Arch on the island of Paxós
80 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
as well as those who prefer a quieter stay, in a family resort Agios Mesongí
Mattháios
or simply in a small fishing village. Traditional Greek life does
exist here, inland on the larger islands and on islands such as Lefkímmi
Kávos
Meganísi off Lefkáda, or Mathráki, Othonoí and Ereikoússa off
northern Corfu.
Longós
Paxós
I O
Islands at a Glance
Gáïos
Corfu pp82–93
N
Ithaca pp96–7 Antípaxos
I A
Kefalloniá pp98–9
Lefkáda p95
N
Paxós p94
Zákynthos pp100–101
S E
A
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
High-season, direct ferry route
Summit
Locator Map
Agios Nikítas
Katoúna
Lefkáda Nydrí
Vathý
Spartochóri
Vasilikí Meganísi Kálamos
Arkoudi Kastos
Astakós
Fríkes Atokos
Fiskárdo
Stavrós
Ithaca
Asos
Vathy
Ec
Aetós
Kardakáta de
s
Gáïos harbour on Paxós
Agia Efthymía
Sámi
Lixoúri Kefallonía Patra
Kástro
Argostóli
Aínos Póros
1628m
Pessáda
Skála
Markópoulo
Korithi Kyllíni
Agios Nikólaos
Volimes
Alykés
Vrachíonas
756m Zákynthos Town
Argási
Zákynthos
Vasilikós
Laganás
Kerí
Holiday apartments at Fiskárdo on Kefalloniá
For keys to symbols see back flap
82 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Corfu
Κέρκυρα
Corfu is a green island offering the diverse attractions of secluded
coves, stretches of wild coast, bands of coast given over totally to
resorts and traditional hill-villages. In 229 BC it became a colony of
the Roman Empire, remaining so until AD 337. Byzantine rule then
began, intermittently broken by the Goths, the Normans and
Angevin rule. Situated between Italy and the Greek mainland,
its strategic importance continued under Venetian rule
(1386–1797). French rule (1807–14) saw the Greek language
restored and the founding of the Ionian Academy, set up for
the development of the arts. A period of British rule Sidári Acharávi
Perouládes Róda
(1814–64) was followed by unification with Greece.
J
Karousádes
J
Avliótes
Epískepsi
Kavvadádes
Episkopí
Nymfés
Valaneió
Afiónas
J
Ano Korakiána
Skriperó
Lákones
J
Palaiokastrítsa
Liapádes
Angelókastro is a
ruined 13th-century CORFU
fortress, which stands Giannádes
across the bay from
Palaiokastrítsa
5 Sidári (see p91). Ermones
Unusual rock formations, produced by the Vátos
effect of sea on sandstone, give the resort of Myrtiótissa is one of Pélekas
Sidári its appeal. Legend has it that any couple Corfu’s finest beaches Glyfáda
swimming through the Canal d’Amour will (see p92).
stay together forever.
7 Vátos
This traditional Greek
hill-village is set above
the fertile Ropa plain.
8 Korisíon Lagoon
This lake is a haven
for wildlife and is
separated from
the Ionian Sea only
by some beautiful
beaches.
6 Palaiokastrítsa
0 kilometres 5
Three main coves cluster around a thickly wooded headland at
Palaiokastrítsa. It is now one of the most popular spots on the 0 miles 3
island and is an ideal base for families, with water sports available
and a friendly atmosphere.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
CORFU 83
4 Kassiópi
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The unspoiled bay at
Kassiópi is overlooked by
Practical Information
an attractive quayside
* 120,000. n Corfu town
lined with tavernas,
(26610 37638). _ For cultural
shops and bars.
events see ∑ corfu.gr
Transport
k 3 km (2 miles) S of Corfu
town. g Xenofóntos Stratigoú,
Corfu town. @
3 Mount Pantokrátor
This is the highest point
on Corfu and offers
Kassiópi Avláki
excellent views over the
island and, on a clear day,
Perítheia
Kouloúra
as far as Italy.
Petália
Kalámi
Mount
J Pantokrátor
Corfu Town
Potamós
Igoumenítsa, 0 Achílleion
Paxós, Pátra Palace
Kanóni The Empress
Vlachérna Elizabeth of
Pontikonísi Austria built this
palace (1890–91).
J
Achílleion Palace
Benítses
Strongylí
Agios
Mattháios
Moraïtika
J
Mesongí
9 Benítses
Chlomós An archetypal package
Korisíon holiday resort, Benítses
Lagoon Alykés Igoumenítsa appeals to a young crowd.
Argyrádes
There is plenty of nightlife
and the beach offers every
Perivóli Lefkímmi conceivable water sport.
Gardíki Castle
was built in the
13th century on the
site of Paleolithic Kávos
remains (see p92). Dragótina
THERMISTOKLEOUS
pitch, which is part of the
Esplanade, or Spianáda (see
F I
on modern bank-note K
I
R
(see p88)
S
S
I
N
A
D
T
H
I
O
E
R
O
P
T
E
O
A
K
H
I
K
T
F
E
L
E
Archaeological Museum
(see pp88–9)
. Agios Spyrídon
The red-domed belfry of this church is
0 metres 250
the tallest on Corfu. It was built in 1589
and dedicated to the island’s patron 0 yards 250
saint, whose sarcophagus is just to the
right of the altar (see p86).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
CORFU 85
S Transport
E
N k 2 km (1 mile) SW.
g Xenofóntos Stratigoú.
I @ Avramíou (around Corfu
O
U town), Plateía Theotóki (suburbs
of Corfu town & nearby towns),
9th Parodos I Theotoki (rest of
island, Athens and Thessaloníki).
U
O
I
R
T
O U
S
O R
O D
I
L
O L
D
A P
O
P
A
K
L
E
O
N
T
O
S
Old Fortress
(see p88)
. The Liston
This elegant parade of cafés was built as a
copy of the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. It is the
place to sit and relax while sipping Corfu’s
most expensive coffee (see p86).
86 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Agios Spyrídon can be spotted easily above surrounding buildings with its distinctive red-domed tower
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
CORFU 87
E Byzantine Museum
Prosfórou 30 & Arseníou. Tel 26610
38313. Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Closed main public hols. &
∑ antivouniotissamuseum.gr
The Byzantine Museum opened
in 1984 and is housed in the
renovated church of Panagía
Antivouniótissa, which is one of
the city’s oldest buildings and
provided some of the ecclesia
stical exhibits. The museum
contains about 90 15thcentury
icons and work by artists from
the Cretan School. Many of these
A game of cricket on the pitch by the Esplanade artists worked and lived on Corfu,
as it was a convenient stopping
Peloponnese in 1831 by Grigórios Mános (1850–1929), off point on the journey between
two Cretans whose uncle he during his travels overseas. He Crete and Venice from the 13th
had imprisoned. offered his vast collection to to the 17th centuries during the
Facing this is the Maitland the state on condition that he period of Venetian rule.
Rotunda (1816), a memorial to could retire and become
Sir Thomas Maitland, who curator of the museum. E Paper Money Museum
became Britain’s first Lord High Unfortunately he died before Ionikí Trápeza, Plateía Iróon
Commissioner to Corfu after the he could realize his ambition, Kypriakoú Agóna. Tel 26610 41552.
island became a British Protect though saw its opening in Open Apr–Sep: 8:30am–3pm Thu,
orate in 1814, though neither he 1927. The exhibits include Sat & Sun, 8:30am–2pm & 5:30–
nor his policies were much liked. statues, screens, armour, 8:30pm Wed & Fri; Oct–Mar:
silk and ceramics 8:30am–3pm Wed–Sun.
P Palace of St Michael and Closed main public hols.
from China, Japan,
∑ alphapolitismos.gr
St George India and other
Plateía Spianáda. Tel 26610 30443. Asiatic countries. This collection of Greek
Open Tue–Sun (gardens daily). Closed In front of the bank notes traces the
main public hols. & (gardens free) building is a statue of way in which the island’s
The Palace of St Michael and Sir Frederick Adam, currency altered as
St George was built by the the British High Statue of Corfu’s society and rulers
British between 1819 and 1824 Commissioner to Corfu Sir Frederick Adam changed. The first bank
from Maltese limestone. It from 1824 to 1831. He note was issued in British
served as the residence of Sir built the Mon Repos Villa (see pounds, while later notes show
Thomas Maitland, the High p89), to the south of town and the German and Italian currency
Commissioner, and as such is was also responsible for of the war years. Another display
the oldest official building in popularizing the west coast shows the process of producing
Greece. When the British left resort of Palaiokastrítsa (see p91), a note. The museum is housed
Corfu in 1864 the palace was one of his favourite spots on on the first floor of an imposing
used for a short time by the the island. 19thcentury bank building.
Greek royal family, but it was
later abandoned and left
to fall into disrepair.
The palace, which also once
housed the island’s treasury,
was carefully renovated in the
1950s by Sir Charles Peake,
British Ambassador to Greece,
and now houses the traffic
police, a library and some
government offices. Conferences
and exhibitions are also
occasionally held in the palace.
The Palace of St Michael and
St George also houses the
Museum of Asiatic Art. The
core of the museum’s collection
is the 11,000 items that were
collected by a Corfiot diplomat, Maitland Rotunda situated in the Esplanade
88 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
The Old Fortress towering above the sea on the eastern side of Corfu town
E Archaeological Museum
Vraïla 1. Tel 26610 30680. Open Call
for times. & 7
The Archaeological Museum is
situated a pleasant stroll south
from the centre of town, along
the seafront. The museum’s
collection is not large but a
visit is worthwhile to see the
centrepiece, the stunning
Gorgon frieze.
The frieze, dating from the
6th century BC, originally
formed part of the west
pediment of the Temple of
Artemis near Mon Repos Villa.
The 17th-century Catholic cathedral Agios Iákovos in Plateía Dimarcheíou The layout ensures that the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
CORFU 89
LOT
I
IER
OU
Ferry Port
NZE
P
R A R TOUR
1 km (0.6 miles)
1 Agios Spyrídon
DO
PROS
RA FOR O U
AGO
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2 Paper Money Museum E
Solomos
Museum S
3 Plateía Dimarcheíou
A
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OR I IS
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V
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H E
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AG T M EL
4 New Fortress LO IOU ANO TI
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U
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5 Mitrópoli
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PR VO
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PA L E O L O G
7 Palace of St Michael O KI
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Paper
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and St George Money
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New
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Fortress AS Museum
V A R VA R
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Ground
OU
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9 Esplanade ED SO Liston
PA
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U
Fortress
LO
SC PLATEIA
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Maitland
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N
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LY L
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ND
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A
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PA AK
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Airport
VRA
2 km (1.2 miles)
S
IA
ÏL A
0 metres 250
AT
KR
Archeological
O
Mon Repos
Villa, Kanóni
4 Kassiópi
Κασσιόπη
37 km (23 miles) N of Corfu town.
* 600. @ L Avláki 2 km (1 mile) S.
Outlying Islands
Corfu has three offshore islands.
Mathráki offers the simplest
Caretaker monk at Moní Theotókou, Palaiokastrítsa Greek island life, with two
villages and only a few rooms
5 Sidári Water sports are available as to rent. Ereikoússa is the most
Σιδάρι well as boat trips out to see the popular island, largely because
nearby grottoes. Until the early of its glorious sandy beaches.
31 km (20 miles) NW of Corfu town. 19th century the place was Othonoí is the largest island
* 300. @ L Róda 6 km (4 miles) E.
noted for its beauty but access and has the best facilities but
One of Corfu’s first settlements, was difficult. lacks the finer beaches.
the village of Sidári has pre-
Neolithic remains dating back
to about 7000 BC. Today it is Writers and Artists in Corfu
a bustling holiday centre with The poet Dionýsios Solomós lived on Corfu from 1828 until his death
the twin attractions of sandy in 1857. He is best known for his poem “Hymn to Freedom”, part of
beaches and unusual rock which was adopted as the national anthem after Independence.
formations. Erosion of the Other writers have also found inspiration on Corfu, including the
sandstone has created a num- British poet and artist Edward Lear, who visited the island in the 19th
ber of caves and tunnels, the century, and the Durrell brothers, who both wrote about Corfu.
most famous being a channel Gerald described his idyllic 1930s childhood in My Family and Other
between two rocks known as Animals, while Lawrence produced Prospero’s Cell in 1945. He wrote
the Canal d’Amour (see p82). this while staying in Kalámi, where he was visited by Henry Miller,
whose 1941 book The Colossus of Maroussi is one of the most
accurate and endearing books about Greece.
6 Palaiokastrítsa
Παλαιοκαστρίτσα
26 km (16 miles) NW of Corfu town.
* 600. @
9 Benítses
Μπενίτσες
Environs
The glorious beach at
Myrtiótissa, 2 km (1 mile)
south of Vátos, is named after
the 14th-century monastery
behind it dedicated to Panagía
Myrtiótissa (Our Lady of the
Myrtles). The beach is a long
golden sweep of sand backed
with cypress and olive trees
(see p16). Lawrence Durrell was
fond of the area and, in his
book Prospero’s Cell, referred
to Myrtiótissa as “perhaps the
loveliest beach in the world”.
South of Vátos lies Pélekas,
another picturesque and
unspoiled hillside village.
Its traditional houses tumble
down wooded slopes to
the small and secluded A whitewashed house in the attractive village of Vátos
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
CORFU 93
0 Achílleion Palace
Αχίλλειον
19 km (12 miles) SW of Corfu town.
@ Tel 26610 56210. Palace &
gardens: Open 8am–8pm daily. &
A popular day trip from any of
Corfu’s resorts, the Achílleion
Palace was built in 1890–91 by
the Italian architect Raphael
Carita for the Empress Elizabeth
of Austria (1837–98), formerly
Elizabeth of Bavaria and best
known as Princess Sissy. She
used it as a personal retreat
from her problems at the
Habsburg court: her health
was poor and her husband,
Emperor Franz Josef, The outer entrance to the Achílleion’s gardens
notoriously unfaithful.
After the assassination grounds the walls are draped 15 m- (49 ft-) high, cast-iron
of the Empress Elizabeth with colourful bougainvillea figure, which was commissioned
by an Italian anarchist and a profusion of palm by Kaiser Wilhelm II.
in 1898, the palace lay trees. The gardens are also
empty for nearly a dotted with numerous The Palace
decade, until it was statues, especially of There have been numerous
bought by Kaiser Achilles, who was the attempts to describe the
Wilhelm II in 1907. It empress’s hero, after Achílleion’s architectural style,
is famous as the set whom the palace is ranging from Neo-Classical to
used for the casino in named. One moving Teutonic, although Lawrence
the James Bond film bronze of the Dying Durrell was more forthright,
For Your Eyes Only. A 19th-century painting of Achilles is by the and declared it “a monstrous
Elizabeth of Bavaria German sculptor building”. The empress was
The Gardens by Franz Xavier Ernst Herter. The not particularly pleased with
The lush green statue is thought to the finished building, but her
gardens below the palace are have appealed to the unhappy fondness for Corfu made
terraced on a slope which empress following the tragic her decide to stay.
drops 150 m (490 ft) to the suicide of her second son, the The palace does, however,
coast road. The views along the Archduke Rudolph, at Mayerling. contain a number of interesting
rugged coast both north and Another impressive statue of artifacts. Inside, some original
south are spectacular. In the the hero Achilles is the massive furniture is on display and on
the walls there are
some fine paintings
The Legend of Achilles of Achilles, echoing
Shortly after his birth, Achilles was immersed in the River Styx by his mother Thetis. the bronze and stone
This left him invulnerable apart from the heel where she had held him. Achilles’ statues seen in the
destiny lay at Troy (see pp66–7); Helen, the wife of King Menelaos of Sparta, was held gardens. Another
by Paris at Troy, where Menelaos and his allies laid siege. As the Greeks’ mightiest exhibit is the strange
warrior, it was Achilles who killed the Trojan hero Hector. However, he did not live saddle-seat that
to see Troy fall, since he was struck in the heel by a fatal arrow from Paris’s bow. was used by Kaiser
Wilhelm II whenever
he was writing at
his desk.
After touring the
palace visitors can
try the Vasilákis
Tastery, opposite the
entrance, and sample
this local distiller’s
many products, which
include a number of
Corfiot wines, oúzo
Achilles victoriously dragging the body of Hector around the walls of Troy and the speciality
kumquat liqueur.
94 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
E Phonograph Museum
Houses on a hillside near Kalamítsi Konstantínou Kalkáni 10. Tel 26450
21088. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–2pm &
Lefkáda Lefkáda Town 7–10pm. Closed main pub hols. 7
Λευκάδα The town has suffered E Folk Museum
* 25,000. g Nydrí, Vasilikí.
repeated earthquakes, but Stefanitis 2. Tel 26450 22778.
@ Dimitroú Golémi, Lefkáda town.
there are interesting back Open Jun–Oct: 10am–1pm &
n Lefkáda town (26453 60500). streets and views of the 7pm–10pm Tue–Sun; Nov–
( Lefkáda town: daily. ∑ lefkada.gr beautiful ruins of the May: by appointment only.
14thcentury Sánta Mávra Closed main pub hols.
Lefkáda offers variety, from fortress. Situated on the
mountain villages to beach mainland opposite, the Around the Island
resorts. It has had a turbulent fortress is connected to The best way to see the
history, typical of the Ionian Lefkáda by a causeway. The island is to hire a moped
Islands, since the Corinthians main square, Plateía Agíou or bike, although bus
took control of the island from Spyrídona, is named after A bell at Moní services operate from
the Akarnanians in 640 BC, right the 17thcentury church Faneroménis Lefkáda town. The scenic
up until the with its rare metal bell road running down the
British left towers. Nearby, the Phonograph west coast is ideal for beach
the island Museum houses a private hopping (see p21). Agios Nikítas
in 1864. collection of records and old is a traditional small resort with a
harbour and beach. To the south,
Kalamítsi is a typical Lefkáda
mountain village. Further south
is the main hillvillage of Agios
Pétros, still a rural community
Lefkáda Town despite the nearby resort of
Moní Faneroménis Vasilikí, a windsur fer’s paradise.
Nydrí is the main resort on the
Agios Nikítas east coast, with splendid views
of the offshore islands.
Outlying Islands
Kalamítsi
Meganísi has retained its rural
lifestyle. Most boats from Nydrí
LEFKADA stop at Vathý, the main port.
Uphill, the small village of
Eláti Stavrotá
Katoméri has the island’s only
1,157m (3,795ft) Nydrí hotel. Skorpios is a private
Sparti
island owned by Aristotle and
now, Athina, Onassis.
Agios Pétros Skorpios
Egremní Vathý
Meganísi
Ithaca,
Kefalloniá
Kefalloniá
Cape
Lefkáda 0 kilometres 5
Sailing boats off the white-sand beach
0 miles 3 at Vasilikí
For keys to symbols see back flap
96 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
E Archaeological Museum
The pebble beach of Pólis Bay on the northwest coast of Ithaca Behind OTE office. Tel 26740 32200.
Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Ithaca date back as far as 4000–3000 Closed main public hols. 7 &
Ιθάκη BC, and by Mycenaean times it
* 4,000. g Vathý. @ n Vathý
had developed into the capital Around the Island
(26740 33481). L Pólis Bay 20 km
of a kingdom that included its With just one main town, high
(12 miles) NW of Vathý. ∑ ithaki.gr larger neighbour, Kefalloniá. hills, a few pebble beaches and
little development, Ithaca is a
Small and rugged, Ithaca is Vathý pleasant island to explore. A
famous, according to Homer’s The capital, also known as twice-daily bus (four in season)
epic the Odyssey, as the home Ithaca town, is an attractive links Vathý to villages in the
of Odysseus. Finds on Ithaca port, its brown-roofed houses north and there are some taxis.
huddle around an indented bay. Stavrós, the largest village in
The surrounding hills were the northern Ithaca, has only 300
site for the first settlement, but inhabitants but is a thriving hill
the harbour itself was settled community and market centre.
in the medieval period, and Nearby Pólis Bay is thought to
Vathý became the capital in have been the old port of ancient
the 17th century. Destroyed by Ithaca, and site of an important
Exogi
Platreithiás
an earthquake in 1953, it was cave sanctuary to the Nymphs.
Kefalloniá Odysseus’s Palace may have
Lefkáda
Fríkes stood above Stavrós on the hill
P i l ikát a known as Pilikáta. To find it, ask for
Pólis Bay
Stavrós directions at the Archaeological
Kióni
Collection of Stavros, whose
curator gives guided tours in
ITHACA several languages. Among
Léfki the local finds is a piece of a
Anogí
J terracotta mask from Pólis
cave bearing the inscription
Agios Ioánnis
“Dedicated to Odysseus”.
Astakós
E Archaeological Collection
Kefalloniá of Stavros
Pátras Stavrós. Tel 26740 23955.
0 kilometres 5 Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.
0 miles 2 Closed main public hols. 7
Vathy
Píso Aetós
Perachóri
Kefalloniá
Taxiárchis
Filiatró
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p312 and pp328–9
98 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Argostóli Fragkáta
Lássi Kástro
Zákynthos Atsoupádes
Pástra Kyllíni
0 kilometres 10
Markópoulo
0 miles 5
Néa Skála
For keys to symbols see back flap
THE IONIAN ISLANDS 99
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 36,000. n Waterfront,
Argostóli (26710 22933).
( daily, Argostóli. _ Panagía
or Snake Festival at Markópoulo:
15 Aug; Wine Festival at Fragáta:
1st Sat after 15 Aug.
∑ kefallonia.gov.gr
Volímes
Alykés Plános Kyllíni
Tsiliví
Navagio Bay Katastári
Moní tis Panagías Zákynthos Town
tis Anafonítrias
ZAKYNTHOS
Argási
Vasilikós
Kampí Lagópodo
J
Mouzáki Geráki
Laganás
Agalás
0 kilometres 5
Kerí
0 miles 5
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Loggerhead Turtles
The Mediterranean green loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) has been Practical Information
migrating from Africa to Laganás Bay, its principal nesting site, for * 41,000. n Lomvardou St,
many thousands of years. These giant sea creatures can weigh up to Zákynthos town (26953 61300).
180 kg (400 lb). They lay their eggs in the sand, said to be the softest _ Zákynthos Town Festival: Jul.
in Greece, at night. However, disco and hotel lights disorientate the Transport
turtles’ navigation and few now nest successfully. Of the eggs that k 4 km (2 miles) S of Zákynthos
are eventually laid, many are
town. g Zákynthos town; Agios
destroyed by vehicles or by the
Nikólaos. @ Zákynthos town.
poles of beach umbrellas. The
work of environmentalists has
led to some protection for the
turtles, with stretches of beach On the northwest coast is
now off-limits, in an attempt to Navagio Bay (see p16), one of
give the turtles a chance to at the best and most photographed
least stabilize their numbers. beaches in Greece. It is also
known as Shipwreck Cove, after
the cargo ship that ran aground
Around the Island and discos ensure the nightlife here in 1980, the remains of
Outside the main resorts there here continues till dawn. which can be seen on the beach.
is little tourist development on Head to the north coast for The surrounding sheer limestone
Zákynthos. It is possible to drive the busy beach resorts of Tsiliví cliffs and pristine blue waters
around the island in a day as and Alykés, the latter being add to the surreal beauty. A
most of the roads are in good especially good for windsurfing. viewing platform on the edge
condition. Hiring a car or a The 16th-century Moní tis of the cliff offers amazing photo
motorbike is the best idea, Panagías tis Anafonítrias in the opportunities. The only way to
though buses from Zákynthos northwest has special appeal for reach this spectacular cove is by
town are frequent to resorts such locals, as it was here the island’s boat. There are frequent services
as Alykés, Tsiliví and Laganás. patron saint, Dionýsios, spent from the small port of Porto
The growth of tourism on the last years of his life as an Vromi or from Zákynthos town.
Zákynthos has been heavily abbot. During his time here, it is At the northernmost tip of
concentrated in Laganás and its said that Dionýsios heard a mur- the island are the unusual Blue
14 km (9 mile) sweep of soft sand. derer’s confession; the murderer Caves, formed by the relentless
This unrestricted development received the saint’s forgiveness, action of the sea on the coastline.
has decimated the population never knowing that his victim The principal cave, the Blue
of loggerhead turtles that nests was the abbot’s brother. When Grotto, lies directly underneath
here – only an estimated 800 questioned by the authorities, the lighthouse on Cape Skinári.
remain. Efforts are now being Dionýsios denied seeing the It was discovered in 1897 and
made to protect the turtles and man, which was the only lie he has become well-known for its
to ensure their future survival. ever told. Dionýsios lived in a cell stunningly blue and clear water
Visitors may take trips out into here which still stands and through which the caves’ natural
the bay in glass-bottomed boats contains many of the saint’s stone floors can be seen. The
to see the turtles, and all sorts revered possessions. The three- caves can be visited by boat from
of turtle souvenirs fill the large aisled church and the tiny chapel the resort of Agios Nikólaos, and
number of trinket shops. An alongside are rare in that they round-the-island boat trips from
equally large number of bars survived the 1953 earthquake. the main resorts also stop here.
THE ARGO-
SARONIC ISLANDS
Salamína • Aígina • Póros • Hydra • Spétses • Kýthira
Although still supporting fishing and farming communities, the Argo-Saronic
Islands have succumbed to a degree of tourism. Hugging the coast just off
mainland Greece, between Athens and Peloponnese, these islands are easy
to reach. Many Athenians visit the islands at weekends, when the beaches can
become very busy. Kýthira, off the tip of the Peloponnese, shares its history
of Venetian and British rule with the Ionians, but is today administered with
the Argo-Saronics.
The islands’ location close to Athens has Salamína and Aígina are so easy to reach
given them a rich history. Aígina was from the capital that they are often thought
very prosperous in the 7th century BC of as island suburbs of Athens. Póros hardly
as a maritime state that minted its own seems like an island at all, divided from
coins and built the magnificent temple the Peloponnese by a narrow channel.
of Aphaia. Salamína is famed as the site of However, despite modern colonization
the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), when the peaceful spots can still be found. Póros
Greek fleet defeated the Persians. Wealth and Spétses are lush and green, covered
gained from maritime trading also with pine forests and olive groves, in
assured the Argo-Saronics’ cultural and contrast to the other more barren and
social development, seen today in the mountainous islands. Scenically, Kýthira’s
architectural beauty of Hydra and in the rugged coastline has more in common
grand houses and public buildings of with the Ionians than the Argo-Saronics.
Aígina. Hydra and Spétses were important The island’s position on ancient shipping
in the War of Independence (see pp52–3), routes has led to some major finds, such
both islands producing brave fighters, as the bronze Youth of Antikýthira, now on
including the notorious Laskarína display in the National Archaeological
Bouboulína and Admiral Andréas Miaoúlis. Museum in Athens (see p296).
Ermióni
The pretty coastal village of Diakófti on Kýthira
Kranídi
Portochéli
Kósta
Spétses Town
0 kilometres 20 Agia Paraskeví
Spétses Trikeri
0 miles 10 Agioi Anárgyroi
Spetsopoula
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp312–13 and pp329–30
THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS 105
Athens
Moní Faneroménis
Paloúkia
Pérama
Salamína Town
Ambelákia
Piraeus
Aiánteio Selínia Kýthira
inset map
Giála
Salamína
Peristéria
Locator Map
Saro
nic Gu
lf Getting Around
The Argo-Saronic Islands are
Piraeus
well served by frequent ferries
and hydrofoils departing from
Souvála Kentrikó Limáni and Marína
Piraeus Zéas ports in Piraeus. Salamína
Aígina Town Agía Marína can also be reached by regular
Agios commuter boats. Aígina,
Nektários
Aígina Spétses and Póros are all small
Marathónas
Agkistri enough to be explored using
Skála Pérdika Mount Oros
530m
public transport, taxis or hired
mopeds; Hydra is for walkers
Limenária Moní Sfendoúri
and sailors only. There are daily
Agkístri
flights to Kýthira from Athens,
and ferry and hydrofoil
departures from the ports in
Piraeus, or from Neápoli and
Methanon Gýtheio on the Peloponnese.
Méthana
Neápoli
Póros
Kalloní Taktikoúpoli Elafonísi
Piraeus
Póros Town
Karavás
Askéli
Galatás Agía Pelagía
Diakófti
Mainland Greece
Mylopótamos Avlémonas
Kýthira
Plépi
Thermisía
Chora
Kólpos Idras
Hydra Town
Dokos Hydra
Crete
Episkopí Pótamos
Antikýthira
Salamína
Σαλαμίνα
* 40,000. g Paloúkia & Selínia.
@ Salamína town. ( Thu at Salamína
town, Sat at Aiánteio. ∑ salamina.gr
Piraeus
Souvála
Vaïa
Vathý Temple of
Kypséli Aphaia
Piraeus Livádi Palaiochóra
J
J
Agía Marína
J
Aígina Town Omorfi Agios
Ekklisiá Nektários
Fáros AIGINA
Marathónas J
Anítsaio
Agkístri Skála Méthana Mount Oros J
530 m (1,750 ft)
Pérdika
J
Metóchi Moni
Sfikári
Agkistri
0 kilometres 3
Limenária 0 miles 3
3 Metope
4 Triglyph
5 The east pediment sculptures,
with Athena at the centre, were
replacements for an earlier set.
The west pediment sculptures are
Archaic in style.
6 The roof was made of terracotta
tiles with Parian marble tiles at
the edges.
7 Opisthodomos, or rear porch
8 Cult statue of the
goddess Aphaia
9 The pool of olive oil was a
collection of the many libations
(offerings) made to the goddess.
Corner Columns
These columns were made
thicker for emphasis and to
counteract the appearance of
thinness in a column that was
seen against the sky.
Corner Architraves
Still in good condition, the stonework
above the capitals consists of a plain
architrave surmounted by a narrow
band of plain metopes alternating
with ornate triglyphs.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp312–13 and pp329–30
AIGINA 109
Inner Columns
The cella is enclosed by two storeys of
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Doric columns, one on top of the other.
Practical Information
The taper of the upper columns is
12 km (7 miles) E of Aígina town.
continuous with that of the lower.
Tel 22970 32398. Open May–Oct:
8:30am–7:30pm daily; Nov–Apr:
10:30am–5:30pm daily. Closed
main public holidays. & -
Cella
The cella was the inner room of the
temple, and the home of the cult
statue. Some temples had more than
one, the back cella being reserved
for the priestess alone.
Temple Pediments
The famous sculptures from the pediments of the Temple of
Aphaia were discovered by a group of British and German
architects and artists, including John Foster, C R Cockerell
and Baron Haller von Hallerstein, in April 1811. They were
later sold to the Crown Prince of Bavaria at auction and are
now housed in the Glyptothek in Munich. They portray
the struggles of various mythological heroes. The
sculptures from the west pediment date from
around 490 BC and are in the late Archaic
style. Those from the east, with their more
fluid movements and serious expressions,
Reconstruction of the Warriors sculpture from date from approximately 480 BC and
the west pediment foreshadow the Classical style.
110 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Póros
Πόρος
* 4,500. g @ Póros town.
n Póros town (22983 20500). ( Fri
(am) at Paidikí Chará. ∑ poros.gr
Kýthira
Κύθηρα
Called Tserigo by the Venetians, Kýthira is one of the legendary
birthplaces of Aphrodite. Historically, the island shared Venetian
and British rule with the Ionian islands; today it is governed from
Piraeus with the other Argo-Saronics. Clumps of eucalyptus
seem emblematic of the island’s modern alias of “Kangaroo
Island”; return visits from 60,000 Australian Kythirans are central
to Kythiran life. The island is also popular with Athenians seeking Kapsáli harbour seen from Chóra
unspoiled beaches and holiday Chóra
homes, many of which are the Chóra has been Kýthira’s capital
typical mix of Aegean and only since the destruction of
Platiá Ammos Venetian architecture. Palaióchora in 1537. Its
magnificent kástro was built
Karavás Neápoli
in two phases during the 13th
and 15th centuries. A multi-
Agía domed cistern lies intact near
Pelagía the bottom of the castle; at
Gýtheio, the summit, old cannons
J Kalamàta
surround the church of Panagía
Potamós Palaióchora Myrtidiótissa. The steepness of
the drop to the sea below
and Avgó islet, thought
Moní Agíou Theodórou to be the birthplace
Douriánika Diakófti
• Friligkiánika
J Crete of Aphrodite, is
unrivalled through-
Agía
Sofía Cave KYTHIRA Agios Geórgios J
out the Greek
• Mitáta Avlémonas
Mylopótamos islands. A magnet for
Káto Palaiópoli wealthy Athenians,
Chóra Fónissa
Kastrí the appealing lower
Limniónas • Frátsia Kaladí
town with its solid, flat-
roofed mansions dates from
Limnária the 17th to 19th centuries. The
Kalokairinés
Archaeological Museum just
Komponáda
outside Chóra has finds from
Livádi • Moní Mycenaean and Minoan
Agios Ioánnis
sto Gkremó sites, plus gravestones
Kálamos
Fyrí dating from the British
Melidóni Ammos occupation of 1809 to 1864.
Kapsáli
0 kilometres 5
Chóra J
Chalkós E Archaelogical Museum
0 miles 3 Tel 27360 31739. Open May–Oct:
8am–3pm Tue–Sun. Closed main
public hols. &
Environs
Yachts, hydrofoils and large
ferries drop anchor at the
harbour of Kapsáli, just east of
Chóra. The beach is mediocre,
but most foreigners stay here.
In the cliff above the pine wood
is the 16th-century Moní Agios
Ioánnis sto Gkremó, built on
to the cliff edge. The nearest
good beaches are pebbly
Fyrí Ammos, 8 km (5 miles)
northeast via Kálamos, with
sea caves at its south end;
and sandy Chalkós, 7 km
The houses of Chóra clustered on the hillside at dusk (4 miles) south of Kálamos.
For keys to symbols see back flap
THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS 113
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 4,000. n 27360 31213.
( Sun at Potamós. ∑ kythira.gr
Transport
k 22 km (14 miles) NE of Chóra.
g Agía Pelagía & Kapsáli.
@ runs between Agía Pelagía &
Kapsáli and between Diakófti
& Kapsáli.
THE SPORADES
AND EVVOIA
Skiáthos • Skópelos • Alónnisos • Skýros • Evvoia
Being close to the mainland, the Sporades trading around the Aegean and are
and Evvoia have been easily conquered still noted today as sailors. The islands’
throughout history. They were colonized patchworked interiors of fertile fields and
in the prehistoric era by nearby Iolkos orchards, watered by ample springs and
(Vólos), and also by the Minoans, who rivers, also encouraged agricultural self-
introduced vine and olive cultivation. sufficiency and wealth. Particularly on
More than any other island, Evvoia reveals remote and rugged Skýros, such insularity
its diverse history in the large number of has nurtured some unique folk art and
buildings remaining from the long periods colourful traditions. Its inaccessible
of Venetian and Turkish occupation. coastline enables it to remain relatively
Susceptible to pirate raids, the inhabitants unaffected by the numerous tourist
of the Sporades lived in the safety of hotel complexes that have sprung up
fortified towns until as late as the 19th on Skiáthos and Skópelos.
century. Even in Evvoia, when life proved The size of Evvoia also means it is one
too difficult in coastal villages such as of the few places in the Greek islands
Límni, the residents simply migrated where life carries on during the summer,
to Skiáthos for a few generations. The undeterred by the annual invasion of
islanders have a rich heritage of maritime holiday-makers.
Nerotriviá Stení
Skála
Oropoú
Islands at a Glance
Gioúra Alónnisos pp124–5
Piperi Evvoia pp128–33
Skiáthos pp118–19
Kyrá Panagía
Skópelos pp122–3
Gérakas Skýros pp126–7
Alónnisos
rk
Pa ATHENS
e
Stení Vála in
Peristéra ar
M
s
de
ra Locator Map
o
Skantzoúra
Sp
Getting Around
Skýros and Skiáthos are both
connected with Athens by internal
flights. Skiáthos’s international
airport also caters for charter
A E G E A N Mólos
flights. Island-hopping is
easy in the summer
S E A Atsítsa
Skýros Town
season, with frequent
Skýros ferries and Flying
Valáxa Linariá Dolphin hydrofoils
Kochýlas plying between the
792 m Sporades, Evvoia and
the mainland. It is also
possible to connect by
Sarakini
ferry with the Cyclades
Sýros, Andros, Tínos and Thessaloníki.
Kárystos is the best base
for touring the south of
Kými
Evvoia; stay at Kými for the
Paralía Kýmis east coast, and Límni or Loutrá
Aidipsoú for a tour of the north.
Paralía
There are good roads around Evvoia
and a frequent, reliable bus service.
Ochthoniá
Alivéri
Lépoura
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
Skiáthos
Σκιάθος
Skiáthos has always been an unashamedly hedonistic
island from its early tourist development in the 1960s,
when it attracted the rich and famous with its
legendary beaches, to its current role as bucket-and-
spade paradise for family package tours. Although the
introduction of direct package flights has diminished
Skiáthos’s exclusive status, the luxury yachts are still
The sweeping bay of Koukounariés
in evidence off Koukounariés beach. In spite of
the tourism, the island retains its scenic beauty annual Aegean Festival of
and a scattering of atmospheric churches Dance, as well as theatre and
and monasteries. concert performances each
summer. Bourtzi is dominated
Kástro
J
Lalária by a handsome Neo-Classical
Moní Agíou building, with a statue of
Charalámpou
Panagía the famous Greek
Kardási J Moní Evangelismoú
J novelist Aléxandros
Papadiamántis
Agios Apóstolos Taxiárchis
standing guard. Life
Thessaloníki,
Skópelos in Skiáthos town
Profítis Ilías
J Loutráki centres on the
Skiáthos
long, sweeping
Kechriá quaysides lined
Town Argos
Agios Ioánnis with numerous
Fteliá
Asélinos
SKIATHOS Andros kafeneía, specializing
Moní Panagías Sýros, in loukoumádes
Kounístras Tínos
Vólos (small honeyed fritters).
Mandráki In the evenings the
Tsougkria waterside attracts
many people for a
J
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 6,000. n 24270 23172.
_ Aegean Festival of Dance,
Skiáthos town: Jul. ∑ skiathos.gr
Transport
k 2 km (1 mile) NE of Skiáthos
town. g @ Harbourfront,
Skiáthos town.
Skópelos
Σκόπελος
Surprisingly, given its close proximity to Skiáthos, Skópelos has
not totally succumbed to tourism. It is known to have been
colonized by the Minoans as far back as 1600 BC and was used
as a place of exile by the Byzantines. The Venetians held power
for about 300 years after 1204. Famed for its wine
in ancient times, Skópelos is still renowned for
its fruit today. It offers many good beaches,
and has a beautiful pine-covered interior.
Colourful bougainvillea vines winding
The island is also well-known for being around a house in Skópelos town
the main filming location for the movie
Glóssa
Mamma Mia!, starring Meryl Streep. in the 13th century, the castle
Skópelos Town, stands on the site of the
Loutráki Loutráki
Skiáthos
Skiáthos,
5th-century BC acropolis of
Vólos ancient Skópelos. The church
Mount Délfi
nearest the castle is
680 m (2,230 ft) Alónnisos Agios Athanásios.
Elios Glystéri It was built in the
SKOPELOS Moní Timíou 11th century,
Prodrómou Moní but the foun-
Metamórfosis
Dasia
Skópelos Town tou Sotíros dations date
Miliá Moní
Evangelistrías from the 9th
Adrína Pánormos
Mount Paloúki century. There
385 m (1,260 ft) Moní
Taxiarchón are some fine
16th-century
Limnonári Velóna frescoes inside.
The Folk Art Museum
Agnóntas Stáfylos
sits behind the harbour-
front in a 19th-century
mansion. Examples of traditional
local costumes and embroidery
0 kilometres 5 are on display.
0 miles 3
E Folk Art Museum
Chatzistamáti. Tel 24240 23494.
Skópelos Town craftsman Antónios Agorastós. Open Jun–Oct: 10am–2pm & 7–9pm
This charming town proudly Perched on a clifftop above the Mon, Wed & Fri (to 2pm Tue, Thu &
reveals its rich pedigree with town, the landmark church of Sat), 11am–2pm Sun; Nov–May:
over 120 churches, many fine Panagía tou Pýrgou, with its 10am–2pm Mon–Fri & Sun,
11am–2pm Sat; . &
mansion houses and myriad shining fish-scale roof, overlooks
shops selling local delicacies the harbour.
such as honey, prunes and The old quarter of Skópelos Environs
various delicious sweets. The town, the Kástro, sits above the In the hills above Skópelos town
cobbled streets wind up from modern town and is topped there are numerous impressive
the waterfront, and are covered by the remains of the Venetian monasteries. Reached by the
with intricate designs made from castle. Built by the Ghisi family road going east out of the town,
sea pebbles and shells. There are
numerous classic examples of
the old Sporadhan town house,
with its wooden balcony and
fish-scale, slate-tiled roof.
In the upper town the
cruciform church of Panagía
Papameletíou is particularly
splendid. Built in 1662, it is also
known as Koímisis tis Theotókou.
It has a well-kept interior, with
an interesting display case of
ecclesiastical objets d’art and a
carved iconostasis by the Cretan Whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs in picturesque Skopelos town
For keys to symbols see back flap
THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA 123
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 4,700. n Harbourfront
(24243 50101). _ Panagía:
15 Aug. ∑ skopelos.gr
Transport
g @ Skópelos town.
Bathers enjoying beautiful weather and clear, calm waters at Kokkinókastro beach
Skýros
Σκύρος
Renowned in myth as the hiding place of Achilles (see p93)
and the home-in-exile of the hero Theseus, Skýros has always
played an important role in Greek history. A rich Athenian
colony from 476 BC, it later became a place of exile for the
wealthy from Byzantine Constantinople. Currently one of the
homes of the Greek Navy and Air Force, its unique heritage,
landscape and architecture bear more resemblance to the
Dodecanese than the Sporades. An example of traditional Skýrian
embroidery in the Faltáits Museum
Skýros Town pastel pink and blue ceramics and copperware into
The main town is interiors. The town has highly sophisticated art forms.
architecturally unusual two good museums. The One place to learn some
in the Aegean; it has a Archaeological Museum of these crafts is the Skýros
fascinating mixture of displays some bracelets Centre, a unique holiday centre
cube-shaped houses, and pottery that were which also has courses in such
Byzantine churches discovered during wide-ranging subjects as yoga,
and spacious squares. excavations of minor reflexology, creative writing and
Although its main street Neolithic and Mycenaean windsurfing. The main branch is
has been spoiled by sites around the island. in Skýros town, with another
loud tavernas and bars, The museum also presents branch at Atsítsa, on the west
many backstreets give a traditional Skýrian town coast of the island.
glimpses into Skýrian house that has been Plateía Rupert Brooke, above
homes. Traditional accurately recreated the town, is famous for its
ceramics, woodcarving, with local furnishings. controversial statue of a naked
copper and embroidery Immortal Poetry in Housed in an old man by M Tómpros. Erected in
are always proudly Plateía Rupert Brooke mansion owned by 1930 in memory of the British
on display. the Faltáits family, the poet Rupert Brooke who died
Topping the kástro of the excellent Faltáits Museum was on the island, the statue is
old town with its impressive opened in 1964 by one of their known as Immortal Poetry.
mansion houses are the remains descendants, Manos Faltáits. It
of the Castle of Lykomedes, has a diverse collection of folk E Archaeological Museum
site of both an ancient acropolis art, including rare books and Plateía Brooke. Tel 22220 91327.
and later a Venetian fortress. It is manuscripts, photographs and Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
reached through a tunnel under- paintings, which reveal much Closed main public hols. &
neath the whitewashed Moní about Skýrian history and E Faltáits Museum
Agíou Georgíou, which contains culture. It not only shows how Palaiópyrgos. Tel 22220 91232.
a fine painting of St George craftsmen absorbed influences Open 10am–2pm & 6–9pm daily
killing the dragon. The views from the Byzantine, Venetian (winter: 5:30–8pm). & 8
from the kástro of the bay and Ottoman occupations, but Skýros Centre
below are quite breathtaking. also how the development of Tel 01983 865566 (contact London
Nearby are the remains of two a wealthy aristocracy actively office for bookings). Open Apr–Oct.
Byzantine churches, and three helped transform the island’s ∑ skyros.com
tiny chapels, with colourful woodcarving, embroidery,
Environs
Beneath Skýros town are the
resorts of Mólos and Magaziá.
Around these two resorts there
are plenty of decent hotels,
tavernas and rooms to rent.
Further along the coast from
Magaziá, there is another sandy
stretch of beach at Pouriá, which
offers excellent spear-fishing and
snorkelling. At Cape Pouriá itself,
the chapel of Agios Nikólaos is
built into a cave. Just off the coast
are the islets of Vrikolakonísia,
where the incurably ill were
The Castle of Lykomedes towering above Skýros town sent during the 17th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–14 and p330
THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA 127
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
0 kilometres 5
Practical Information
0 miles 3 * 3,000. n 22220 50300.
_ Carnival: end Feb–early Mar.
∑ skyros.gr
Evvoia
Εύβοια
After Crete, Evvoia is Greece’s largest island. It is generally
unspoiled by tourism, and its diverse landscape and history make
it a microcosm of the whole country. From Macedonian rule in
338 BC, to Turkish government until 1833, the island has suffered
many occupations. Traces of Evvoia’s mixed history are widely
evident, from the range of religious cultures in Chalkída to
the descendants of 15th-century Albanian
immigrants who still speak their own Cape Artemísio 8 Cape Artemísio
dialect of Arvanitika. This is the site of the
Agriovótano
Battle of Artemisium,
Psaropoúli which took place
Glýfa Istiaía in 480 BC.
Paralía Kotsikiás
Agiókampos
Agios Vasíleios
J
Giáltra Krýa Vrýsi
Loutrá Loutrá
Agios Giáltron Aidipsoú Roviés
Geórgios Arkítsa Mantoúdi
Sarakíniko
Límni
Prokópi
Istiaía is the main town in the northern
part of the island. It is a pretty market town Moní Galatáki J
Mount Pixariá
with peaceful squares (see p133). Mount Kandíli 1,343 m (4,405 ft
1,361m (4,464ft)
Nerotriviá
0 Límni
This picturesque fishing
town is full of narrow
streets lined with white
houses, and colourful Néa Artáki
flowers that pour out
on to the pavement. Chalkída
9 . Loutrá Aidipsoú
Old-fashioned and charming,
this resort has attracted visitors
for centuries with its warm spa
waters. Local fishermen still
continue their trade in the
wide bay.
7 Prokópi
The large Kandíli estate, belonging to the English Noel-Baker
family, sits just outside the quiet village of Prokópi.
0 kilometres 15
0 miles 10
1 Chalkída
A modern town, Chalkída is the
capital of the island, and has a mixed
populace of Muslims, Jews and
Orthodox Greeks. The waterfront, lined
with hotels, is a pleasant place to walk.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–14 and p330
EVVOIA 129
6 Stení
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Nestling in the green hills of
Mount Dírfys, Stení’s cool
Practical Information
climate makes it a pleasant
* 240,000. n Chalkída (22260
escape from the summer
24655). _ Summer Drama
heat and a popular place
Festival in Chalkída: May–Sep.
for a day trip.
∑ aroundevia.com
Transport
g Agiókampos, Erétria,
Kárystos, Loutrá Aidipsoú,
Marmári, Néa Stýra, Paralía Kýmis.
5 Kými £ @ Chalkída.
A wealthy port in the
1880s, Kými is quieter
today, with a fine Folk
Museum displaying
traditional crafts such
as this embroidered
picture frame.
EV V O I A
Ancient Erétria
Lake Dýstos is a
Lépoura large swampy area
Alivéri on the road to
Erétria
Néa Stýra (see p131).
Skála Oropoú
J
Néa Stýra
Agía J
Marína Kalérgo
Stýra
J
Mount Ochi
1,398 m (4,585 ft)
Marmári
Rafína Kárystos
2 Ancient Erétria
Finds from Ancient Mount Ochi
Erétria, such as this provides a
statue of the goddess Néa Stýra is one of scenic day’s
Athena, are displayed the minor ports on the Rafína trek with
in the modern town’s island for ferries to excellent views
Archaeological Museum. the mainland (see p131). (see p131).
For keys to symbols see back flap
130 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Kástro
In the old Kástro quarter,
southeast of the Evripos bridge
(“Sliding Bridge”), the deserted
streets reveal a fascinating archi-
tectural history. Many houses
still bear the traces of their
Venetian and Turkish ancestry,
with timbered façades or marble
heraldic carving. Now inhabited The 15th-century mosque in the Kástro, home to some Byzantine relics
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–14 and p330
EVVOIA 131
Scenic road running through olive groves between Ochthoniá and Avlonári
7 Prokópi
Προκόπι
52 km (32 miles) NW of Chalkída.
* 1,200. @ ( Sun. L Krýa Vrýsi
15 km (9 miles) N.
Sleepy at most hours, Prokópi
only wakes when the tourist
buses arrive with pilgrims
coming to worship the remains
of St John the Russian (Agios
Ioánnis o Rósos), housed in
the modern church of Agíou The pebble beach at Cape Artemísio
Ioánnou tou Rósou. Souvenir
shops and hotels around the 8 Cape Artemísio Dominating the town is the
village square cater fully for the Ακρωτήριο Αρτεμίσιο Thérmai Sýlla. Voted one of the
visiting pilgrims. In reality a world’s top spas, this luxurious
Ukranian, John was captured in 105 km (65 miles) NW of Chalkída. hotel offers wellness and
@ to Agriovótano. n Agriovótano
the 18th century by the Turks medical treatments that use
(22210 76131). L Psaropoúli 15 km
and taken to Prokópi (present- (9 miles) SE.
the natural, mineral-rich spring
day Ürgüp) in central Turkey. waters. These luxuries are
After his death, his miracle- Below the Picturesque reminders of the days when the
working remains were brought village of Agriovótano sits rich and famous came to take
over to Evvoia by the Greeks Cape Artemísio, site of the the cure. Other Neo-Classical
during the exodus from Asia Battle of Artemisium. hotels along the seafront
Minor in 1923. Here the Persians, led also recall the town’s days
Prokópi is also famous for by King Xerxes, of glory in the late
the English Noel-Baker family, defeated the Greeks 1800s. The town has
who own the nearby Kandíli in 480 BC. In 1928, a relaxed atmosphere
estate. Although the family local fishermen and is popular with
have done much for the region, hauled the famous Greek families.
local feeling is mixed about bronze statue of
the once-feudal status of this Poseidon out of the Old Mercedes truck Environs
estate. Many locals, however, sea at the cape. It is delivering produce In the summer a ferry
now accept the important now on show in the service goes across the
role Kandíli plays in its latest National Archaeological bay to Loutrá Giáltron, where
incarnation as a specialist Museum in Athens (see p296). warm spring water mixes with
holiday centre, by bringing the shallows of a quiet beach
money into the local economy. Environs edged by tavernas.
About 20 km (12 miles) east
Environs lies Istiaía, a pleasant market
The road between Prokópi town with sleepy squares, 0 Límni
and Mantoúdi runs by the white chapels and ochre- Λίμνη
River Kiréa, and a path leads coloured houses.
87 km (54 miles) NW of Chalkída.
to one of the oldest trees * 2,100. @ n 22270 32111.
in Greece, said to be over
2,000 years old. This huge 9 Loutrá Aidipsoú Once a wealthy 19th-century
Oriental plane tree (Platanus Λουτρά Αιδηψού seafaring power, the pleasant
orientalis) has a circumference town of Límni has elegant
of over 11 m (37 ft). 100 km (62 miles) NW of Chalkída. houses, cobbled streets and a
* 3,000. @ n 22260 23500.
charming seafront. Just south
( Mon–Sat L Giáltra 15 km
(9 miles) SW.
of the town is the magnificent
Byzantine Moní Galatáki, the
Loutrá Aidipsoú is Greece’s oldest monastery on Evvoia,
largest spa town, popular etched into the cliffs of Mount
since antiquity for its cure-all Kandíli. Inhabited by nuns
sulphurous waters. These waters since the 1940s, its church is
bubble up all over the town and covered with beautiful frescoes.
many hotels are built directly The Last Judgment is shown in
over hot springs to provide a particularly gory detail, with
supply to their treatment rooms. some souls frantically climbing
In the rock pools of the public the ladder to heaven, while
Façade of the mansion on the Noel-Baker baths by the sea, the steam rises others are dragged mercilessly
Kandíli estate, Prokópi in winter scalding the red rocks. into the leviathan’s jaws.
THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA 135
THE NORTHEAST
AEGEAN ISLANDS
Thásos • Samothráki • Límnos • Lésvos • Chíos • Ikaría • Sámos
More than any other archipelago in Greece, the seven major islands of the
Northeast Aegean defy easy categorization. Though they are neighbours,
sharing a common history of rule by the Genoese and lively fishing industries,
the islands are culturally distinct, encompassing a range of landscapes
and lifestyles.
Although Sámos and Chíos were forested with pine, olive and cypress
prominent in ancient times, few traces trees. Most of the pines of Thásos were
of that former glory remain. Chíos offers devastated by forest fires in the 1980s,
the region’s most compelling medieval but its rugged coastline of deep bays
monuments, including the Byzantine lined with white beaches makes it a
monastery of Néa Moní, considered one popular holiday island. Samothráki
of the finest examples of Macedonian remains unspoiled; its numerous hot
Renaissance architecture in the world, springs and waterfalls, as well as the
and the mastic villages, while vineyard- brooding summit of Mount Fengári,
covered Sámos has a fascinating museum are a counterpoint to the long-hallowed
of artifacts from the long-venerated Sanctuary of the Great Gods.
Heraion shrine. In Límnos’s capital, Mýrina, Beaches come in all sizes and consis-
you encounter evidence of the Genoese tencies, from the finest sand to melon-
and Ottoman occupations, in the form of sized volcanic shingle. Apart from Thásos,
its castle and domestic architecture. Sámos and Lésvos, package tourism is
Lésvos, the third-largest Greek island, scarce in the north, where summers are
shares the fortifications and volcanic shorter. Wild Ikaría, historically a backwater,
origin of Límnos, though the former’s will appeal mostly to spa-plungers and
monuments are grander and its beachcombers, while its tiny dependency,
topography more dramatic. To the south, Foúrnoi, is an ideal do-nothing retreat
the islands of Sámos, Chíos and Ikaría owing to its convenient beaches and
have mountainous profiles and are richly abundant seafood.
Ágios
Efstrátios
Vólos
AEGEAN
SEA Rafina
Islands at a Glance
Chíos pp156–63
Ikaría p163
Lésvos pp146–55
Límnos pp144–5
Sámos pp164–7
Samothráki pp142–3
Piraeus, Psará
Thásos pp138–41 Rafina
Fishing boat in Mólyvos harbour, Lésvos Antípsara Psará
Piraeus,
Sýros
Key
Motorway Piraeus,
Sýros
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
High-season, direct ferry route
International border
Summit
Byzantine monastery of Néa Moní, Chíos
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS 137
Alexandroúpoli
ATHENS
Locator Map
Getting Around
0 kilometres 40 Thásos and Samothráki have
0 miles 20 no airports, but are served by
ferries from Alexandroúpoli and
Kavála on the mainland, while
Límnos and Lésvos have air and
ferry links with Athens and
Thessaloníki. Bus services vary
Mólyvos Sykaminiá from virtually nonexistent on
Antissa
Límnos and Samothráki, or
Kalloní Lésvos’s functional schedules, to
Sígri Thásos’s frequent coaches. Chíos,
Skála Agiásos Mytilíni Ikaría and Sámos are served by
Eresoú Olympos flights from Athens, and are
968m
Lésvos connected by ferry. Chíos has
Plomári an adequate bus service but is
best explored by car; Sámos has
more frequent buses, and is
small enough to be toured by
motorbike; Ikaría has skeletal
Turkey public transport and steep roads
Chíos requiring sturdy vehicles.
Pelinaío Oinoússes
1297m
Volissós
Avgónyma
Chíos Town
Mestá
Pyrgí
Thessaloníki
Karlóvasi Kokkári
Kerketéfs Vathý
1437m
Evdilos Heraion Pythagóreio
Thérma
Armenistís Sámos
Agios Foúrnoi
Kírykos
Ikaría Agathónisi
Arkoí
Mýkonos, Pátmos
Piraeus,
Páros Pátmos Leipsoí
Sandy Messaktí beach, Ikaría
Náxos
For keys to symbols see back flap
138 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Thásos
Θάσος
Thásos has been inhabited since the Stone Age, with settlers
from Páros colonizing the east coast during the 7th century
BC. Spurred by revenues from gold deposits near modern
Thásos town, Ancient Thásos became the seat of a seafaring
empire, though its autonomy was lost to the Athenians in
462 BC. The town thrived in Roman times, but lapsed into Eagle and lion statues in the garden at the
medieval obscurity. Today, the island’s last source of mineral Archaeological Museum, Thásos
wealth is delicate white marble, cut from quarries whose T Ancient Thásos
scars are prominent on the hillsides south of Thásos town. Site & Museum: Tel 25930 22180.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Closed main public hols. & 7
Founded in the 7th century BC,
Ancient Thásos is a complex
series of buildings, only the
remains of which can be seen
today. French archaeologists
have conducted excavations
here since 1911; digs have
continued at a number of
locations in Thásos town.
The Archaeological Museum,
Thásos town harbour, viewed from the agora next to the agora, houses
treasures from the site.
1 Thásos Town Interest lies in the vestiges of Well defined by the ruins of
Λιμένας the ancient city and the manner four stoas, the Hellenistic and
in which they blend into the Roman agora covers a vast
* 3,130. g @ n 25930 23118. modern town. Foundations of a area behind the ancient military
( daily. L Pachýs 9 km (6 miles) W.
Byzantine basilica take up part harbour, today the picturesque
Modern Liménas, also of the central square, while the Limanáki, or fishing port.
known as Thásos town, is an road to Panagiá cuts across a Though only a few columns
undistinguished resort on the vast shrine of Herakles before
coastal plain which has been passing a monumental
Kavála
settled for nearly three millennia. gateway.
Samothráki
Pachýs
Sights at a Glance
1 Thásos Town Thásos Town
2 Potamiá
Néos
3 Alykí
Prínos Chrysí
4 Moní Archangélou Michaïl Skala Ammoudiá
Sotíra Panagiá
5 Theológos Megálo
6 Kástro Kazavíti
Sotíras Skála
7 Sotíras J Potamiá Potamiás
8 Megálo Kazavíti J
THASOS Mount Ipsário
1,200 m (3,950 ft)
Kástro
Theológos
Loutrá
Tripití Limenária
Pefkári
Astrís
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
Transport
g @ Thásos town bus station.
4 3
2
1
0 metres 500
1 Archaeological Museum
2 Agora
The Gate of Parmenon in the south wall of
3 Temple of Dionysos
the sections by the sea having Ancient Thásos
been mostly wrecked on the
4 Theatre
orders of victorious besiegers 3rd century BC; he is depicted
5 Citadel
in 492 and 462 BC. in faint relief playing his pipes.
6 Walls
Foundations of a Temple to Behind the summit point, a
7 Temple to Athena Poliouchos
Athena Poliouchos (Patroness steep 6th-century BC stairway
8 Shrine to Pan of the City), dated to the early descends to the Gate of
9 Gate of Parmenon 5th century BC, are just below Parmenon in the city wall.
the acropolis summit; massive The gate retains its lintel
have been re-erected, it is easy retaining walls support the site and takes its name from an
to trace the essentials of ancient terrace. A cavity hewn in the inscription “Parmenon Made
civic life, including several rocky outcrop beyond served Me” (denoting its mason),
temples to gods and deified as a shrine to Pan in the on a nearby wall slab.
Roman emperors, foundations
of heroes’ monuments and the
extensive drainage system.
Foundations of a Temple of
Dionysos, where a 3rd-century
BC marble head of the god
was found, mark the start of
the path up to the acropolis.
Partly overgrown by oaks,
the Hellenistic theatre has
spectacular views out to sea. The
Romans adapted the stage area
for their bloody spectacles; it is
now being excavated with the
intent of complete restoration.
The ancient citadel, once the
location of an Apollo temple,
was rebuilt during the 13th
century by the Venetians and
Byzantines. It was then ceded
by Emperor Manuel II Palaio-
lógos to the Genoese Gatelluzi
clan in 1414, who enlarged and
occupied it until 1455. Recycled
ancient masonry is conspicuous
at the south gateway. By the
late 5th century BC, substantial
walls of more than 4 km
(2 miles) surrounded the city, Columns of the agora, with the town church in the background
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
140 THE GREEKS ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Archangélou Michaïl
was founded early in the
12th century by a hermit
called Luke, on the spot
where a spring had
appeared at the behest
of the Archangel. Now
a dependency of Moní
Filothéou on Mount
Athos in northern
Greece, its most trea
sured relic is a Holy Nail
from the Cross. Nuns
have occupied the Slate-roofed house with characteristically large chimneypots, Theológos
grounds since 1974.
more secure than Theológos. watered by a triple fountain,
Founded in 1403 by Byzantine the tables of a small taverna fill
5 Theológos Emperor Manuel II Palaiológos, the relaxed balconylike square.
Θεολόγος it became a stronghold of The ruin above the church was
the Genoese, who fortified the a lodge for German miners,
50 km (31 miles) S of Thásos town.
local hill which is now the whose exploratory shafts still
* 900. @ Open daily. L Potós
10 km (6 miles) SW.
cemetery. Kástro was slowly yawn on the ridge opposite.
abandoned after 1850, when a
Well inland, secure from attack German mining concession
by pirates, Theológos was the created jobs at Limenária, on
Ottomanera capital of Thásos. the coast below.
Tiered houses still exhibit their This inland hamlet has now
typically large chimneys and been reinhabited on a seasonal
slate roofs. Generous gardens basis by sheep farmers. The
and courtyards give the kafeneío, on the ground floor
village a green and open of the former school, beside
aspect. A ruined tower and low the church, shelters the
walls on the hillside opposite single telephone; there is
are evidence of Theológos’s no mains electricity.
original 16thcentury founda
tion by Greek refugees
from Constantinople. 7 Sotíras
Σωτήρας
Traditional stone houses with timber
23 km (14 miles) SW of Thásos town.
6 Kástro balconies, Megálo Kazavíti
* 15. @ L Skála Sotíra 3 km
Κάστρο (2 miles) E.
8 Megálo Kazavíti
45 km (28 miles) SW of Thásos town. Facing the sunset, Sotíras has
* 10. L Tripití 13 km (8 miles) W of Μεγάλο Καζαβίτι
the most alluring site of all the
Limenária. 22 km (14 miles) SW of Thásos town.
inland villages – a fact not lost
* 1,700. @ ( daily. L Néos
At the centre of Thásos, 500 m on the dozens of foreigners who
Prínos 6 km (4 miles) NE.
(1,640 ft) up in the mountains, have made their homes here.
the village of Kástro was even Under gigantic plane trees Greeneryshrouded Megálo
Kazavíti (officially Ano Prínos)
surrounds a central square,
which is a rarity on Thásos.
There is no better place to
find examples of traditional
domestic Thasian architecture
with its characteristic mainland
Macedonian influence: original
house features include narrow
arched doorways, balconies
and overhanging upper
storeys, with traces of the
indigo, magenta and ochre
plaster pigment that was
once commonly used across
Taverna overhung by plane trees in Sotíras village the Balkans.
142 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Samothráki Chóra
Σαμοθράκη Lying 5 km (3 miles)
* 2,700. g @ Kamariótissa.
east of Kamariótissa,
L Pachiá Ammos 15 km (9 miles) SW the main port of the
of Kamariótissa. island, Chóra is the
capital of Samothráki.
With virtually no level terrain The town almost fills
except for the western cape, a pine-flecked hollow,
Samothráki is synonymous which renders it
with the bulk of Mount Fengári. invisible from the sea.
In the Bronze Age the island With its labyrinthine
was occupied by settlers from bazaar, and cobbled
Thrace. Their religion of the streets threading past
Great Gods was incorporated sturdy, tile-roofed
into the culture of the Greek houses, Chóra is the
colonists in 700 BC, and most handsome village The town of Chóra with the remains of its Genoese
survived under Roman on the island. A broad castle in the background
patronage until the 4th century central square with two
AD. The rawness of the weather tavernas provides an elegant the castle’s gateway remains,
seems to go hand in hand vantage point, looking out to though more substantial
with the brooding landscape, sea beyond the Genoese castle. fortifications can be found
making it easy to see how belief Adapted from an earlier downhill at Chóra’s predecessor,
in the Great Gods endured. Byzantine fort, little other than Palaiópoli; here three Gatelluzi
Hieron
The second stage of initiation,
epopteia, took place here. In a
foreshadowing of Christianity, this
involved confession and absolution The Temenos
followed by baptism in the blood is a rectangular
of a sacrificed bull or ram. Rites space where
took place in an old Thracian feasts were
dialect until 200 BC. probably held.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS 143
Sanctuary of Anaktoron
This building was where
myesis, the first stage of
initiation into the cult, took
place. This involved contact
with the kabiri mediated
by prior initiates.
Avlónas
Kontiás Mount Paradeísi and overshadowing Mýrina,
Thessaloníki Myrina 260 m (850 ft) the kástro boasts the most
Agios Pávlos
J
Around the Island suddenness of the catastrophe temple. Rich grave offerings
Though buses run from Mýrina gave many people no time to and pottery found on the site
to most villages in summer, escape – skeletons were can be seen in the Mýrina
the best way to travel around unearthed among the ruins. Archaeological Museum.
Límnos is by car or motorbike; Polióchni was noted for its The ancient site of the
both can be hired at Mýrina. metalsmiths, who refined and Kabeirio (Kavírio in modern
Southeast from Mýrina, the worked raw ore from Black Sea Greek) lies across Tigáni Bay
road leads to Kontiás, the third- deposits, and shipped the from Ifaisteía and has been
largest settlement on Límnos, finished objects to the Cyclades more thoroughly excavated.
sited between two volcanic and Crete. A hoard of gold The Kabeirioi, or Great Gods,
outcrops supporting the only jewellery, now displayed in were worshipped on Límnos
pine woods on the island. Athens, was found in one of the in the same manner as on
Sturdily constructed, red-tiled houses. Italian archaeologists Samothráki (see pp142–3),
houses, including some fine continue the excavations every though at this sanctuary little
belle époque mansions, combine summer, and have penetrated remains of the former shrine
with the landscape to make this four distinct layers since 1930. and its adjacent stoa other
the island’s most appealing The patron deity of Límnos than a number of column
inland village. was honoured at Ifaisteía, stumps and bases.
The bay of Moúdros was the situated on the shores of Tigáni Below the sanctuary ruins,
Commonwealth headquarters Bay. This was the largest city on steps lead down to a sea grotto
during the ill-fated 1915 Gallipoli the island until the Byzantine known as the Cave of Philoctetes.
campaign. Many casualties were era. Most of the site has yet to It takes its name from the
evacuated to hospital here; the be completely revealed. wounded Homeric warrior who
unlucky ones were laid to rest a Currently, all that is visible are was supposedly abandoned
short walk east of Moúdros town outlines of the Roman theatre, here by his comrades on their
on the road to Roussopoúli. With parts of a necropolis and way to Troy until his infected
887 graves, this ranks as the foundations of Hephaistos’s leg injuries had healed.
largest Commonwealth cem-
etery from either world war in Outlying Islands
the Greek islands; 348 more Certainly the loneliest outpost
English-speaking servicemen of the North Aegean, tiny,
lie in another graveyard across oak-covered Agios Efstrátios
the bay at Portianoú. (named after the saint who
Founded just before 3000 BC, was exiled and died here) has
occupying a clifftop site near scarcely a handful of tourists
the village of Kamínia, the in any summer. The single
fortified town of Polióchni port town was damaged by an
predates Troy on the coast of earthquake in 1967, with dozens
Asia Minor just across the water. of islanders killed; some pre-
Like Troy, which may have quake buildings survive above
been a colony, it was levelled the ferry jetty. Deserted beaches
in 2100 BC by an earthquake. Looking down on the remains of a Roman can be found an hour’s walk to
It was never resettled. The theatre, Ifaisteía either side of the port.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
146 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Lésvos
Λέσβος
Once a favoured setting for Roman holidays, Lésvos, with its
thick southern forests and idyllic orchards, was known as the
“Garden of the Aegean” to the Ottomans. Following conquest
by them, in 1462, much of the Greek population was enslaved
or deported to Constantinople, and most physical traces of
Genoese or Byzantine rule were obliterated by both the Turks
and the earthquakes the island is prone to. Lésvos has been
the birthplace of a number of artists, its most famous child
being the great 7th-century-BC lyric poet Sappho.
6 . Mólyvos
The tourist capital of the Mólyvos
island, Mólyvos has a
harbour overlooked by a
7 Pétra Genoese castle with fine
This popular resort takes its name from views of Turkey.
Pétra
the huge perpendicular rock at its heart.
Steps in the rock lead to an 18th-
century church on the summit. Anaxos
Kámpos
8 Kalloní Moní Skalochóri
Known mainly for the sardines Moní Ypsiloú Perivolís
caught off the coast of nearby Moní
Skála Kallonís, this is a cross- Sígri Antissa Leimónos
roads for most of the island’s Vatoússa Kalloní
bus routes.
Chídira Skála Kallonís
Eresós
0 Moní Ypsiloú
Straddling the summit of an extinct Vaterá
volcano on the edge of a fossilized forest,
12th-century Ypsiloú has a museum
of ecclesiastical treasures.
q Sígri
Near the westernmost
point of the island, this w Skála Eresoú
small chapel stands at One of the largest resorts on the
the waterfront on the island, the beach at Eresós lies
edge of the remote only a short walk from the
village of Sígri. birthplace of the poet Sappho.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
LESVOS 147
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 91,000. _ Panigýri at Agiásos:
15 Aug. n Mytilíni (22510 27777).
∑ en.mytilene.gr
Transport
k 8 km (5 miles) S of Mytilíni.
g Pávlou Kountourióti, Mytilíni.
@ Mytilíni (around island).
4 Mantamádos
This attractive village
is famous for both its
pottery and the “black”
icon at the enormous
Skála Moní ton Taxiarchón.
Sykaminiás
Kagiá
Sykaminiá Tsónia
Lepétymnos
968 m (3,176 ft)
Mantamádos
5 Sykaminiá
The harbour below the hill-town of Sykaminiá,
Agía Paraskeví birthplace of modern novelist Strátis Myrivílis, is
one of the most picturesque in Greece.
Pigí
Thermí
LESVOS
1 . Mytilíni
Límnos Just outside Mytilíni is a museum
devoted to the work of the painter
Theófilos Chatzimichaïl.
Agiásos Mytilíni
Kólpos Géras
Vareiá
Olympos
968 m (3,176 ft)
Agios
Ermogénis
Melínta
Charamída
Plomári
Oinoússes
Agios Isídoros & Chíos
0 kilometres 10
0 yards 5
3 Agiásos
Widely regarded as the most
2 Plomári beautiful hill-town of the
This large coastal resort, with island, Agiásos’s main church
its Varvagiánnis distillery, is has an icon supposedly
the oúzo capital of Lésvos. painted by St Luke.
For keys to symbols see back flap
148 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
1912 and Ottoman houses still line the narrow lanes between
Ermoú and the castle rise. The silhouettes of such belle époque of rural Lésvos and executed
churches as Agioi Theódoroi and Agios Therápon pierce the creditable portraits of
tile-roofed skyline. personalities he met on his travels.
For his depictions of historical
episodes or landscapes beyond
E Archaeological Museum his experience, Theófilos relied
Argýris Eftaliótis. Tel 22510 28032. on his imagination. The only
Closed for renovation. traces of our age are occasional
New Archaeological Museum: Corner aeroplanes or steamboats in the
of 8 Noemvríou & Melínas Merkoúri. background of his landscapes.
Tel 22510 40223. Open 8am–3pm Just along the road is the
Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols. & Tériade Museum, housing the
7 (new Museum only).
collection of Stratís Eleftheriádis –
Lésvos’s archaeological collection a local who emigrated to Paris in
occupies a belle époque mansion the early 20th century, adopting
and a modern building nearby the name Tériade. He became a
(New Archaeological Museum). publisher of avant-garde art and
The most famous exhibits are literature. Miró, Chagall, Picasso,
Roman villa mosaics. Neolithic Léger and Villon were some of
finds from the British excavations the artists who took part in
(1929–33) at Thermí, just north his projects.
of town, can also be seen.
E Theófilos Museum
The dome of Agios Therápon E Byzantine Museum Vareiá. Tel 22510 41644.
Agios Therápon. Tel 22510 28916. Open 8:30am–3pm daily. & 7
+ Kástro Mytilónis Open 9am–1pm Mon–Sat. & E Tériade Museum
Tel 22510 27790. Open 8am–3pm This ecclesiastical museum Vareiá. Tel 22510 23372.
daily. Closed main public hols. & is devoted almost entirely Open 8:30am–3pm daily. & 7
Surrounded by pine groves, to exhibiting icons. The
this Byzantine foundation of collection ranges from
Emperor Justinian (527–65) still the 13th to the 18th
impresses with its huge curtain century and also
walls, but it was even larger includes a more recent,
during the Genoese era. Many folk-style icon by
ramparts and towers were Theófilos Chatzimichaïl.
destroyed during the Ottoman
siege of 1462 – an Ottoman Environs
Turkish inscription can be seen The Theófilos Museum,
at the south gate. Over the 3 km (2 miles) south,
inner gate the initials of María offers four rooms of
Palaiologína and her husband canvases by Theófilos
Francesco Gatelluzi – a Genoan Chatzimichaïl (1873–
who helped John Palaiológos 1934), the Mytilíni-
regain the Byzantine throne – born artist. All were
complete the resumé of the commissioned by his
castle’s various occupants. patron Tériade in 1927
The ruins include those of and created over the
the Gatelluzi palace, a Turkish last seven years of the
medresse (theological school) painter’s life. Theófilos
and a dervish cell; a Byzantine detailed the fishermen, Daphnis and Chloe, by Marc Chagall (1887–1984), in
cistern stands by the north gate. bakers and harvesters the Tériade Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
LESVOS 149
Types of Olive
From the mild fruits of the Kalamáta, the most
famous Greek olive, is
Ionians to the small, rich glossy-black, almond-
olives of Crete, the Greek shaped and cured in
islands are a paradise for red-wine vinegar.
olive lovers.
Elítses are small, sweetly
Thásos olives are
flavoured olives from the
salt-cured and have
island of Crete.
a strong flavour
that goes well
Tsakistés are picked with cheese.
young and lightly cracked
before curing in brine.
Environs
Vatoússa, 10 km (6 miles) east
of Antissa, is the area’s most
attractive village, even though
Tiered houses of the village of Skalochóri it has no view of the sea. Tiered
Skalochóri, another 3 km
7 Pétra Environs (2 miles) north, does overlook
Πέτρα In 1527, the abbot Ignatios the north coast and – like
founded Moní Leimónos, most local villages – has a
55 km (34 miles) NW of Mytilíni. the second most important ruined mosque dating to
* 3,700. n 22530 42222. @
monastery on Lésvos. You can the days before the 1923
L Anaxos 3 km (2 miles) W.
still view his cell, maintained as Treaty of Lausanne (see p53).
The village of Pétra takes its a shrine. A carved wood ceiling, Hidden in a lush river valley,
name (meaning “rock”) from the interior arcades and a holy 3 km (2 miles) east of Antissa,
volcanic monolith at its centre. spring distinguish the central stands the 16th-century Moní
By its base is the 16th-century church. Moní Leimónos also has Perivolís, situated in the middle
basilica of Agios Nikólaos, still various homes for the infirm, a of a riverside orchard. The
with its original frescoes, while a mini-zoo and two museums: narthex features three 16th-
flight of 103 steps climbs to the one ecclesiastical and one of century frescoes, restored in
18th-century church of Panagía folkloric miscellany. the 1960s: the apocalyptic Earth
Glykofiloúsa church. The and Sea Yield Up Their Dead, the
Archontikó Vareltzídainas, one R Moní Leimónos Penitent Thief of Calvary and
of the last of the Ottoman dwel- 5 km (3 miles) NW of Kalloní. the Virgin (flanked by Abraham).
lings once widespread on Lésvos Tel 22530 22289. The interior is lit by daylight
(see p151), is also 18th century. Ecclesiastical Museum: Open daily. only, so it is advisable to visit
Folk Museum: Open on request. the monastery well before dusk.
P Archontikó Vareltzídainas
Sapphous. Tel 22530 41510. Open
Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
8 Kalloní
Καλλονή
40 km (25 miles) NW of Mytilíni.
* 1,600. n 22530 22288. @ ( Mon–
Sat. L Skála Kallonís 2 km (1 mile) S.
An important crossroads and
market town, Kalloní lies 2 km
(1 mile) inland from its namesake
gulf. Sardines are netted at the
beach of Skála Kallonís. Frescoes adorning the narthex of Moní Perivolís
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
LESVOS 155
0 Moní Ypsiloú
Μονή Υψηλού
62 km (39 miles) NW of Mytilíni. @
Tel 22530 56259. Open daily.
Spread across the 511-m (1,676-ft)
summit of Mount Ordymnos, an
extinct volcano, Moní Ypsiloú was
founded in the 12th century and
is now home to just four monks.
It has a handsome double gate,
and a fine wood-lattice ceiling
in its katholikón (main church)
beside which a rich exhibition
of ecclesiastical treasures can be
found. In the courtyard outside
stand a number of fragments of
petrified trees. The patron saint of
the monastery is John the Divine
(author of the book of Revelation),
a typical dedication for religious The peaceful harbour of Sígri
communities located in such
wild, forbidding scenery. continuing status as a naval base Little remains at the summit, but
has discouraged tourist develop- the Byzantine era is represented
Environs ment, though it has a couple in the ancient centre by the
The main entry to Lésvos’s of small beaches; emptier ones foundations of the basilica of
petrified forest (www.petrified are only a short drive away. Agios Andreás; its 5th-century
forest.gr) is just west of Ypsiloú. mosaics await restoration.
Some 15 to 20 million years ago,
Mount Ordymnos erupted, w Skála Eresoú Environs
beginning the process whereby Σκάλα Ερεσού The village of Eresós, 11 km
huge stands of sequoias, buried (7 miles) inland, grew up as a
in the volcanic ash, were 89 km (55 miles) W of Mytilíni town. refuge from medieval pirate
* 1,500. @
transformed into stone. Layers raids; a vast, fertile plain extends
of ash have revealed trees, Extended beneath the acropolis between the two settlements.
seeds, leaves and animal fossils, of ancient Eresós, the long Two of Eresós’s most famous
which can also be found in the beach at Skála Eresoú supports natives were the philosopher
marine zones of western Lésvos. the island’s third-largest resort. Theophrastos, a pupil of
The Natural History Museum From the acropolis hill, you can Aristotle (see p69), and Sappho,
of the Lésvos Petrified Forest, spot the ancient jetty sub- one of the greatest poets of
based in Sígri, was established merged in the fishing anchorage. the ancient world.
in 1994 in order to study and
preserve this area.
Sappho, the Poet of Lésvos
E Natural History Museum One of the finest lyric poets of any era, Sappho (c.615–562 BC) was
of the Lésvos Petrified Forest born, probably at Eresós, into an aristocratic family and a society that
8th Noemvriou St, Sígri. Tel 22530 gave women substantial freedom. In her own day, Sappho’s poems
54434. Open Jul–Sep: 8am–4pm were known across the Mediterranean, though Sappho’s poetry was to
Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun; Oct– be suppressed by the church in late antiquity and now survives only in
Jun: 9am–5pm daily (from 10am Sun). short quotations and on papyrus scraps. Many of her poems were also
Closed main public hols. addressed to women, which has prompted speculation about Sappho’s
∑ lesvosmuseum.gr sexual orientation. Much of her work was inspired by female com-
panions: discreet homosexuality
was unremarkable in her time. Even
q Sígri less certain is the manner of her
death; legend asserts that she fell
Σίγρι in love with a younger man, whom
93 km (58 miles) NW of Mytilíni. she pursued as far as the isle of
* 400. @ Lefkáda. Assured that unrequited
love could be cured by leaping
An 18th-century Ottoman castle from a cliff, she did so and drowned
and the church of Agía Triáda in the sea: an unlikely, and unfor-
dominate this sleepy port, pro- tunate, end for a poet reputed
tected from severe weather by to be the first literary lesbian.
long, narrow Nisópi island. Sígri’s
156 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Chíos
Χίος
Although Chíos has been prosperous since antiquity, today’s
island is largely a product of the Middle Ages. Under the
Genoese, who controlled the highly profitable trade in gum
mastic (see pp158–9), the island became one of the richest in
the Mediterranean. It continued to flourish under the Ottomans
until March 1822, when the Chians became the victims of one
the worst massacres (see p161) of the Independence uprising.
Chíos had only partly recovered when an earthquake in 1881
caused severe damage, particularly in the south.
1 Chíos Town for its convenient position Shopfront in Chíos town bazaar
Χίος for travelling to the Turkish
* 25,000. g @ Polytechníou
mainland opposite, rather than the town’s eventful past.
(around island), Dimokratías (environs).
good anchorage: a series of Besides the kástro, the most
n Kanári 18 (22710 44389). ( Mon– rulers have been obliged to interesting sights are the lively
Sat. L Karfás 7 km (4 miles) S. construct long breakwaters bazaar at the top of Roïdou, and
as a consequence. Though it an ornate Ottoman fountain
Chíos town, like the island, was is a modernized island capital dating to 1768 at the junction
settled in the Bronze Age and (few buildings predate the of Martýron and Dimarchías.
was colonized by the Ionians earthquake of 1881), there are
from Asia Minor by the 9th a number of museums and + Kástro
century BC. The site was chosen other scattered relics from Maggiora. Open daily. 7
The most prominent medieval
feature of the town is the
Agiásmata
kástro, a Byzantine foundation
improved by the Genoese after
Agio Gála they acquired Chíos in 1346.
J
Pelinaío
1,297 m (4,255 ft) Today the kástro lacks the
Potamiá Kardámyla southeasterly sea rampart, which
fell prey to developers after the
devastating earth-quake in 1881.
Volissós
Its most impressive gate is the
Langáda south-westerly Porta Maggiora;
J
Moní Moúndon
Lefkáda
Limniá J a deep dry moat runs from
Mánagros here around to the northwest
side of the walls. Behind the
CHIOS
J
Psará
Vrontádos the Muslim and Jewish quarters
Anávatos
Néa of the town; after the Ottoman
Moní
Elínta conquest, in 1566, Orthodox
Avgónyma Chíos Town and Catholics were required
to live outside the walls. Also
inside, a disused mosque,
mp o s
Ká ruined Turkish baths and a
J
Mastic J
Karfás small Ottoman cemetery can
Villages be found. The latter contains
Véssa Vávili
J Sámos
Piraeus Sámos
Mestá Armólia
Sights at a Glance
J
Olýmpi Pyrgí
1 Chíos Town
its
Kalamotí
a 2 Mastic Villages
tr
Mávra Vólia
Kómi
o sS 3 Néa Moní
C hí 4 Avgónyma
0 kilometres 5 Emporeiós 5 Volissós
0 miles 5 6 Moní Moúndon
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 45,000. n Chíos town
(22710 44389). ∑ chios.gr
Transport
~ 4 km (2 miles) S of Chíos
town. g Chíos town. @
Environs
The fertile plain known as the
Kámpos extends 6 km (4 miles)
south of Chíos town. The land is
crisscrossed by a network of
The old Turkish baths in Chíos Town unmarked lanes which stretch
between high stone walls that
the grave and headstone of E Byzantine Museum betray nothing of what lies
Admiral Kara Ali, who com- Plateía Vounakíou. Tel 22710 26866. behind. However, through an
manded the massacre of 1822. Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. & ornately arched gateway left
He was killed aboard his flag- Though called the Byzantine open, you may catch a glimpse
ship when it was destroyed Museum, this is little more than of what were once the summer
by the Greek captain Kanáris. an archaeological warehouse and estates of the medieval
restoration workshop. It is housed Chian aristocracy.
within the only mosque to have Several of the mansions were
survived intact in the East Aegean, devastated by the 1881 earth-
the former Mecidiye Cami, which quake, but some have been
still retains its minaret. A number restored with their blocks of
of Jewish, Turkish and Armenian multicoloured sandstone
gravestones stand propped up arranged so that the different
in the courtyard, attesting to the shades alternate. Many of them
multiethnic population of the still have their own water-wheels,
island during the medieval period. which were once donkey-
powered and drew water up
E Argéntis Folklore Museum from 30 m- (98 ft-) deep wells
Koraïs 2. Tel 22710 44246. Open 9am– into open cisterns shaded by a
3pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun, 9am–3pm pergola and stocked with fish.
& 5–8pm Tue & Thu, 9am–2pm Sat. & These freshwater pools, which
Porta Maggiora, the southwesterly Endowed in 1932 by a member of are today filled by electric pumps,
entrance to the kástro a leading Chian family and occu- still irrigate the vast orange,
pying the floor above the Koraïs lemon and tan-
E Justiniani Palace library, this collection features gerine orchards
Kástro. Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. & rural wooden implements, for which
This collection is devoted plus examples of traditional the region is
to religious art and includes embroidery and costumes. Also widely known.
a 5th-century-AD floor on view, alongside a number of
mosaic rescued from a portraits of the Argéntis family,
neglected Chian chapel. are rare engravings of islanders
The saints featured on the and numerous copies of the
icons and frescoes include Massacre at Chíos by Delacroix
Isídoros, who is said to have (1798–1863). This painting, as
taught the islanders how to much as any journalistic dis-
make liqueur from mastic patch, aroused the sympathy
(see pp158–9), and Matrona, of Western Europe for the Greek
a martyr of Roman Ankara revolutionary cause (see pp52–
whose veneration here 3). The main core of the Koraïs
was introduced by refugees library, situated on the ground Detail of Delacroix’s Massacres de Chíos (1824)
from Asia Minor after 1923. floor, consists of a number of in the Argéntis Folklore Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
158 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
2 Mastic Villages
Μαστιχοχώρια Agios Geórgios Sykoúsis
• •
• Véssa Vávili
The 20 settlements in southern Chíos known as the mastichochória, Eláta •
Mestá
or “mastic villages”, received their name from their most lucrative •Olýmpi
• •Armólia
medieval product. Genoese overlords founded the villages •
Pyrgí
well inland as an anti-pirate measure during the 14th and
15th centuries. Constructed to a design unique in Greece, they
share common defensive features made all the more necessary Main Mastic Villages
by the island’s proximity to Turkey. Though they were the only
villages to be spared in the 1822 massacres (see p161), most have
had their architecture compromised by both earthquake damage
and ill-advised modernization.
KEY
Pyrgí
Pyrgí is renowned for its bright houses,
many patterned with xystá (grating)
decoration. Outer walls are plastered
using black sand and coated with white-
wash. This is then carefully scraped off in
repetitive geometric patterns, revealing
the dark undercoat. An example of this is
the church of Agioi Apóstoloi, which also
has medieval frescoes.
Armólia
One of the smallest and simplest
of the mastichochória, Armólia is
renowned for its pottery industry.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
CHIOS 159
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
28 km (17 miles) SW of Chíos
town. * Pyrgí: 1,200; Mestá: 400;
Olýmpi: 350. L Mávra Vólia &
Kómi 5 km (3 miles) SE of Pyrgí.
Transport
@ Mestá.
Olýmpi
Olýmpi is almost square in layout. Its central tower has
survived to nearly its original height, and today two cafés
occupy its ground floor. Here local men and women can
be seen winnowing mastic.
Vávili
The 13th-century Byzantine church of Panagía
tis Krínis, on the edge of the village, is
famed for its frescoes and its alternating
courses of stone and brickwork.
Mastic Production
The mastic bush of southern Chíos
secretes a resin or gum that, before the
advent of petroleum-based products,
formed the basis of paints, cosmetics
and medicines. Today it is made into
chewing gum, liqueur and even
toothpaste. About 300 tonnes of gum
are harvested each summer through
incisions in the bark, which weep resin
“tears”; once solidified a day later,
the resin is scraped off and spread to
air-cure on large trays.
Mestá
Taxiárchis Church
Viewed here from the Mestá’s 19th-century
southwest, Mestá is church, the largest on
considered the best Chíos, dominates the
preserved of the mastic central square. The
villages. It has the most even atmospheric interior
roof heights and still retains has a fine carved
its perimeter corner towers. altar screen.
160 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
3 Néa Moní
Νέα Μονή
Hidden in a wooded valley 11 km (7 miles) west of Chíos
town, the monastery of Néa Moní and its mosaics – some
of Greece’s finest – both date from the 11th century. It
was established by Byzantine Emperor Constantine IX
Monomáchos in 1042 on the site where three hermits
found an icon of the Virgin. It reached the height of its
power after the fall of the Byzantine Empire, and remained
influential until the Ottoman reprisals of 1822. Néa Moní
has now been a convent for decades, but when the last
nun dies it is to be taken over again by monks. Néa Moní, viewed from the west
Narthex
Seen here with the main
church dome in the
background, the narthex
contains the most complex
mosaics. Twenty-eight saints
are depicted, including
St Anne, the only woman.
The Virgin with Child adorns
the central dome.
KEY
. Anástasis
After the Resurrection, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Christ rescues Adam and
Practical Information
Eve from Hell before
11 km (7 miles) W of Chíos
entering Heaven.
town. Tel 22710 79391.
Open 9am–1pm daily.
5 7 limited.
Transport
@
Byzantine Clock
Standing beneath the
Crucifixion mosaic, this
Armenian-made clock
came from Smyrna after its
destruction in 1922.
Betrayal in the
Garden
A detail of this mosaic
shows Peter lopping
off the ear of Malchus,
the High Priest’s
servant, following the
betrayal of Jesus in
Gethsemane.
Unfortunately, the Cabinet containing the skulls of the Chian
Kiss of Judas has martyrs of 1822
been damaged.
162 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
The largely deserted town of Anávatos, with the few inhabited dwellings in the foreground
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
CHIOS 163
6 Moní Moúndon
Μονή Μουνδών
35 km (22 miles) NW of Chíos town.
@ to Volissós. Open daily by
request (ask for key at first house
in Diefha village).
Founded late in the 16th
century, this picturesque
monastery was once second
in importance to Néa Moní
(see pp160–61). The katholikón
(or central church) has a
number of interesting late
Medieval murals, the most The remains of a Hellenistic tower near Fanári, Ikaría
famous being the Salvation
of Souls on the Ladder to Heaven. Ikaría 10th century to guard a pass
Although the church is only Ικαρία on the road to Oinoe. The
open to the public during the * 7,500. ~ g @ Agios Kýrikos.
only other well-preserved
monastery’s festival (29 August), n 22753 50521. L Fanári 16 km fortification is a 3rd-century-BC
the romantic setting makes (10 miles) NE of Agios Kírykos; Hellenistic tower (Drakánou),
the stop worthwhile. Seychelles 25 km (16 miles) SW of once an ancient lighthouse,
Agios Kírykos (see p17). near Fanári.
Tiny Armenistís, with its
Lying 245 km (150 miles) south surrounding forests and fine
of Chíos, Ikaría is named after beaches, such as Livádi and
the Ikaros of legend who flew Messaktí to the east, is Ikaría’s
too near the sun on artificial main resort. The foundations
wings and plunged to his of a temple to the goddess
death in the sea when his Artemis Tavropólos (Artemis
wax bindings melted. incarnated as the patroness
Agios Kírykos, the capital and of bulls) lie 4 km (2 miles) west.
main port, is a pleasant town Home to the most active
flanked by two spas, one of fishing fleet in the East Aegean,
them dating to Roman times the island of Foúrnoi, due east
and still popular with an older of Ikaría, is far more populous
Greek clientele. A number of hot and lively than its small size
Moúndon’s Salvation of Souls on the Ladder baths can be visited at Thérma, suggests. The main street of the
to Heaven mural a short walk to the northeast, port town, lined with mulberry
while at Thérma Lefkádas, to trees, links the quay with a
Outlying Islands the southwest, the springs still square well inland, where an
Domestic architecture on the well up among the boulders in ancient sarcophagus sits
peaceful islet of Oinoússes, a the shallows of the sea. between the two cafés. Within
few miles east of Chíos town, is About 2 km (1 mile) west walking distance lie Kampí and
deceptively humble, for it is the of Evdilos, a village port on the Psilí Ammos beaches.
wealthiest territory in Greece. north coast, lies the village of
Good beaches can be found to Kámpos. It boasts a broad,
either side of the port, and in sandy beach and, beside the
the northwest of the island is ruins of a 12th-century church,
the Evangelismoú convent, the remains of a Byzantine
endowed by the Pateras family. manor house can be seen. The
Much of Psará, 71 km building recalls a time when
(44 miles) to the west, was the island was considered
ruined in the Greek War of a humane place of exile for
Independence (see pp52–3); disgraced noblemen; there
as a result, the single town, was a large settlement of such
built in a pastiche of island officials in Kámpos. A small
architectural styles, is a product museum contains artifacts
of the 20th century. The from the town of Oinoe,
landscape is still desolate and Kámpos’s ancient predecessor.
infertile, though there are good Standing above Kosoíki
beaches to visit east of the village, 5 km (3 miles) inland,
harbour, and Moní Koímisis tis the Byzantine castle of Coastal town of Agios Kírykos, the capital
Theotókou in the far north. Nikariás was built during the of Ikaría
164 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
1 Vathý
Βαθύ
* 5,700. g @ Ioánnou Lekáti.
n 25 Martíou 4 (22730 87351).
( daily. L Psilí Ammos 8 km
(5 miles) SE; Mykáli 6 km (4 miles) S. Assyrian bronze horse figurine, Vathý
Archaeological Museum
Though the old village of Ano
Vathý existed in the 1600s, freestanding sculpture to have
today’s town is recent; the survived from ancient Greece is
harbour quarter grew up only the star exhibit: a 5 m- (16 ft-) tall
after 1832, when the town marble koúros dating from 580 BC
became the capital of the island. and dedicated to the god Apollo.
Just large enough to provide all
amenities in its bazaar, lower E Archaeological Museum
Boats at the beautiful Vathý bay Vathý caters to tourists, while Kapetán Gymnasiárchou Katevéni.
cobble-laned Ano Vathý carries Tel 22730 27469. Open 8am–3pm
on oblivious to the commerce Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols. &
Sights at a Glance in the streets below.
1 Vathý The Sámos Archaeological
2 Efpalíneio Orygma Museum contains artifacts from
3 Pythagóreio the excavations at the Heraion
4 Moní Megális Panagías sanctuary (see p166). Because of
5 Heraion the far-flung origins of the pilgrims
6 Kokkári who visited the shrine, the collec-
7 Karlóvasi tion of small votive offerings is one
8 Mount Kerketéfs of the richest in Greece – among
them are a bronze statuette of an
Urartian god, Assyrian figurines
and an ivory miniature of Perseus
and Medusa. The largest
Heraion
0 kilometres 10 Agathonísi
Foúrnoi
0 miles 5
3 Pythagóreio
Πυθαγόρειο
13 km (8 miles) SW of Vathý. * 1,300.
g @ n Lykoúrgou Logothéti.
L Potokáki 3 km (2 miles) W.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p314 and pp330–32
SAMOS 167
THE DODECANESE
Pátmos · Lipsí · Léros · Kálymnos · Kos · Astypálaia · Nísyros
Tílos · Sými · Rhodes · Chálki · Kastellórizo · Kárpathos
Scattered along the coast of Turkey, the Dodecanese are the most southerly
group of Greek islands, their hot climate and fine beaches attract many visitors.
They are the most cosmopolitan archipelago, with an eastern influence present
in their architecture. These islands were the last territories to be incorporated
into modern Greece.
Piraeus,
Amorgós Sýrna
Sariá
Diafáni
Olympos
Kárpathos
Apélla
Lefkós
Apéri
Kárpathos
Town
Arkása
Menetés
Armáthia
Frý
The domed entrance to the New Market in Crete
Kásos
Rhodes town
Crete
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
THE DODECANESE 171
Getting Around
Kos, Rhodes and Kárpathos have international airports;
those at Léros, Astypálaia and Kásos are domestic. If you
intend to travel by sea, it is wise to plan where you want
to go, as some islands do not share direct connections
even when quite close. Also journeys can be long – it
takes 9 hours from Rhodes to Pátmos. If possible allow Kastellórizo
inset map
time for changes in the weather. The cooling meltémi
wind is welcome in the high summer but, if strong, can
mean ferries will not operate and even leave you
stranded. Bus services are good, especially on the larger Locator Map
islands, and there are always cars and bikes for hire or
taxis available, though the standard of roads can vary.
Sými Town
Agía Marína
Panormítis
Sými
Colourful Neo-Classical houses in Sými town
Rhodes
Triánda
Koskinoú Islands at a Glance
Antitílos Kalavárda Faliráki Astypálaia p184
Petaloúdes Chálki pp208–9
Skála
Kameírou Profítis Ilías Kálymnos pp178–9
Alimiá 800m
Kárpathos pp212–13
Emponas
Nimporió Ataviros Archángelos Kastellórizo p209
Chálki 1210m Kos pp180–83
Láerma Charáki Léros pp176–7
Monólithos Lipsí p176
Líndos
Apolakkiá
Nísyros pp184–6
Pátmos pp172–5
Rhodes Gennádio
Rhodes pp190–207
Sými pp188–9
Kattavia Tílos p187
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 15
Key
Main road
Minor road Ro
Scenic route Kastellórizo
Kastellórizo
High-season, direct ferry route
Strongylí
Summit
Rhodes
Pátmos
Πάτμος
Lámpi
Known as the Jerusalem of the Aegean,
Pátmos’s religous significance dates from Christós
St John’s arrival in AD 95 and the founding Livádi Kalogíron
Vagiá
of the Monastery of St John (see pp174–5) Kámpos
Léfkes Kámpos
in 1088. Monastic control declined as the beach
islanders grew rich through shipbuilding and
trade, and in 1720 the laymen and monks PATMOS
divided the land. Today Pátmos tries to maintain Agathonísi
Melói
itself as a centre for both pilgrims and tourists.
Lipsí
Léros
Skála Piraeus,
Kastélli Sámos,
Skála Holy Cave of Mỳkonos,
Ferries, yachts and cruise ships the Apocalypse Astypálaia
dock at Skála, the island’s port Monastery of St John
and main town, which stretches Chóra Gríkos
around a wide sheltered bay.
As there are many exclusive Tragonisi
gift shops and boutiques,
Diakófti
Skála has a smart, upmarket
Mount Prásino
feel. There are several travel
C
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 3,000. n Skála (22470
31666). _ Niptír at the
Monastery of St John: Maundy
Thu; Panagía at Kámpos: 15 Aug.
∑ patmos.gr
Transport
g Skála. @ Skála.
KEY
Chapel of the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Holy Cross
This is one of the
Practical Information
monastery’s 10 chapels
Chóra, 4 km (2 miles) S of Skála.
built because church
Tel 22470 20800. Open 8am–
law forbade Mass
1:30pm daily; 4–6pm Tue, Thu &
being heard more
Sun. & treasury. 5
than once a day in
∑ patmosmonastery.gr
the same chapel.
Transport
@ Monastery & Treasury
Chrysobull
This scroll of 1088 in the treasury is
the monastery’s foundation deed,
sealed in gold by the Byzantine
Emperor Alexios I Comnenos.
. Main Courtyard
Frescoes of St John from the 18th
century adorn the outer narthex
of the katholikón, whose arcades
form an integral part of
the courtyard.
Niptír Ceremony
The Orthodox Easter celebrations on
Pátmos are some of the most important
in Greece. Hundreds of people pack
Chóra to watch the Niptír (washing)
ceremony on Maundy Thursday.
The abbot of the Monastery of
St John publicly washes the feet
of 12 monks, re-enacting Christ’s
washing of his disciples’ feet before
the Last Supper. The rite was once
performed by the Byzantine Embroidery of Christ
emperors as an act of humility. washing the disciples’ feet
176 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
THE DODECANESE 177
Drymónas
Marína, and is lined coast above sandy Goúrnas
Pantéli
Vromólithos
with impressive Bay, has a white chapel on an
Neo-Classical islet that can be reached by
Lipsí,
Pátmos mansions built means of a narrow causeway.
Lakkí between 1880 At Drymónas, with its coves
and 1920. Agía and oleander gorge, is the
Marína is the church of the Panagía
principal port Gourlomáta, which translates
Lépida
Kálymnos,
Xirókampos for hydrofoils. as the “goggle-eyed Virgin”.
Psérimos Palaiókastro Following Reconstructed in 1327 from
Piganoussa
the coastal an 11th-century chapel, the
road north to church takes its name from
Krithóni, the British the wide-eyed expression
0 kilometres 4 War Cemetery is a site of of the Madonna seen in one
0 miles 2
pilgrimage for those who of its frescoes.
lost relatives in the 1943 The resort of Xirókampos,
summer residence. Also in Battle of Léros. Beaches line lying in a bay to the south of
Lépida is the 11th-century the road leading further north the island, is overlooked by
church of Agios Ioánnis to Álinda, the island’s main ancient Palaiókastro, the former
Theológos (St John the Divine), resort, which has a long beach site of the 3rd-century castle
built over the remains of a with water sports and seafront of Lépida. The huge Cyclopean
Byzantine church by the monk cafés, Alinta’s Historic and Folk walls remain, and within them
Christodoulos (see p174). Museum is housed in the twin- is the church of Panagía, that is
towered Belénis Castle, built home to some fine mosaics.
Around the Island by an expatriate benefactor,
Léros is a pretty, green island Paríssis Belénis. Little remains of E Historic and Folk Museum
with an indented coastline the once-powerful Temple of Belénis Castle, Alínda.
sweeping into vast gulfs, the Artemis, now overlooking the Open May–Sep: daily.
“four seas” of Léros. With craggy
hills and fertile valleys, it is
good walking country.
To defy the Italians, the
Lerians abandoned Lakkí and
made the village of Plátanos
the capital. Straddling a hilltop,
its houses spill down to the
little port of Pantéli and to the
fishing village of Agía Marína.
Perched above Plátanos,
the Byzantine kástro offers
fine views. Renovated by the
Venetians and the Knights of
St John, it houses the church
of Megalóchari or Kyrá tou
Kástrou (the Madonna of
the Castle) famous for its
miraculous icon. Nearby
Pantéli is a fishing village Plátanos village with the kástro in the background
For keys to symbols see back flap
178 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 16,000. n Plateía Taxi, Póthia
(22433 60200). ( Póthia: Mon–
Sat. _ Easter celebrations
around island: Easter Sat; Sponge
week at Póthia: week following
Greek Easter. ∑ kalymnos-isl.gr
Transport
g Póthia. @ behind
marketplace, Póthia.
The deep Vathý inlet with the settlement of Rína at its head of the sheer inlet, and Armiés,
Drasónia and Palaiónissos
The main resorts on the island You can walk to Kolonóstilo (the beaches on the east coast.
are strung out along the west Cyclops Cave), which is named
coast. The sunset over the islet after its massive stalactites. Outlying Islands
of Télendos from Myrtiés is In the southeast is the most Excursion boats leave Póthia daily
one of Kálymnos’s most famous beautiful area of Kálymnos: the for Psérimos and the islet of Nerá
sights. Although Myrtiés and lush Vathý valley, which has with its Moní Stavroú. Psérimos
neighbouring Masoúri have now three small villages at the head has an often busy, sandy beach
grown into noisy tourist centres, of a stunning blue inlet. Backed and a popular festival of the
the Armeós end of Masoúri is by citrus groves, Rína, named Assumption on 15 August.
less frenetic. To the north is the after St Irene, is a pretty hamlet Télendos, reached from
fortified Kastélli, the refuge of with a working boatyard. Myrtiés, is perfect for a hideaway
survivors from the 11th-century Plátanos, the next village, has a holiday, with a few rooms to
Turkish massacre. The coast road huge plane tree and the remains rent and a handful of tavernas,
from here is spectacular, passing of Cyclo-pean walls. There is a plus shingly beaches. There are
fish farms, inlets and the fjord-like 3-hour trail from here via Roman ruins, a derelict fort and
beach at Arginónta. A visit to the Metóchi, the third Vathý village, the ruined Moní Agíou Vasileíou,
northernmost fishing hamlet, across the island to Arginónta. dating from the Middle Ages.
Emporeiós makes a good day out Caïques from Rína visit the The Byzantine castle of Agios
and is in craggy walking country. Daskalió Cave in the side Konstantínos also stands here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
180 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Kos Mastichári
Κως
Limnióna
The second largest
of the Dodecanese, Kéfalos
Agios Ioánnis Antimácheia
Kos has a pleasant Theológos
Agios Stéfanos
climate and fertile Astypálaia Paradise
Kamári Antimácheia
land, famous for Beach
Castle
Aspri Pétra
producing the kos
Moni
lettuce. Kos has Agiou Ioánni
Kardámaina
attracted settlers
Chelóna
since 3000 BC,
and Hippocrates’s 0 kilometres 5
teachings (see p182)
0 miles 3
increased the island’s
renown. By the 4th century BC Kos was a strong trading
power, though it declined after the Romans arrived in
130 BC. The Knights of St John ruled from 1315, and the
Turks governed from 1522 to 1912. Italian and German
occupation followed until unification with Greece in 1948.
+ Castle of Knights
Platánou. Tel 22420 27927.
Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun. &
The 16th-century castle
gateway is carved with
Yachts moored in the harbour at Kos town gargoyles and an earlier
coat of arms of Fernández
1 Kos Town Hippocrates’s ancient plane tree, de Heredia, the Grand Master
Κως in Plateía Platánou, is said to from 1376 to 1396. The outer
* 15,000. g @ Aktí Koudouríotou.
have been planted by him keep and battlements were
n Vasiléos Georgíou 1 (22423 60400). 2,400 years ago. Despite its built between 1450 and
( daily. L Kos town. 14 m (46 ft) diameter, the 1478 from stone and marble,
present tree is only about including blocks from the
Dominated by its Castle of the 560 years old and is probably Asklepieíon (see p182). The
Knights, old Kos town was fortress was an important
destroyed in the 1933 defence for the Knights of
earthquake. This revealed many Rhodes against Ottoman attack.
ancient ruins, which the Italians
excavated and restored. T Ancient Agora
The harbour bristles with South of Plateía Platánou.
boats, and pavement cafés This site is made up of a series
heave with tourists during the of ruins; from the original
high season. There are palm Hellenistic city to Byzantine
trees, pines and gardens full of buildings. Built over by the
jasmine. Ancient and modern Knights, the ancient remains
sit oddly side by side: Nafklírou, were revealed in the 1933
the “street of bars”, runs beside earthquake. Highlights include
the ancient agora, at night lit The water fountain near Hippocrates’s the 3rd-century-BC stoa Kamára
up by strobes and lasers. plane tree tou Fórou (Arcade of the
For keys to symbols see back flap
KOS 181
Sights at a Glance
1 Kos Town
3rd-century-AD mosaic of
2 Asklepieíon Asklepios and 2nd-century
3 Asfendíou Villages statues of Dionysos with Pan
4 Tigkáki and a satyr. The east wing
5 Palaió Pylí exhibits Roman statues and
6 Kardámaina north Hellenistic finds; the west
7 Antimácheia room has later huge statuary.
8 Kamári
T Roman Remains
Grigoríou E. Tel 22420 28326. Closed
Forum), the 3rd-century-BC for renovation; phone for details.
Temple of Herakles, mosaic The most impressive of
floors depicting Orpheus and these ruins is the Casa Romana, Kos lettuce on a market stall in
Herakles, and ruins of the built in the Pompeiian style. Plateía Eleftherías
Temple of Pándemos Aphrodite. It had 26 rooms and three
A 5th-century Christian basilica pools surrounded by shady Odeion (theatre). It has rows
was also discovered, along with courtyards lined with Ionian of marble benches (first-class
the Roman Agora. and Corinthian columns. There seats) and limestone blocks
are mosaics of dolphins, lions for the plebeians.
E Archaeological Museum and leopards. The dining room The western excavations
Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 22420 28326. has decorated marble walls and opposite reveal a mix of
Open Tue–Sun; times vary, so several rooms are painted. In historical periods. There are
phone ahead. & the grounds are the excavated Mycenaean remains, a tomb
The museum has an excellent thermal baths and part of the dating from the Geometric
collection of the island’s main Roman road, covered with period and Roman houses with
Hellenistic and Roman finds, ancient capitals and Hellenistic some fine mosaics. One of the
including a 4th-century-BC fragments. Set back off the most impressive sights is the
marble statue of Hippocrates. road down an avenue of gym or xystó with its 17
The main hall displays a cypresses is the ancient restored Doric pillars.
Rows of marble benches for the Roman audiences that came to the ancient Odeion
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
182 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
4 Tigkáki
Τιγκάκι
12 km (7 miles) W of Kos town.
The seven restored columns of the Temple of Apollo at the Asklepieíon
@ L Tigkáki.
8 Kamári
Καμάρι
15 km (9 miles) SW of Kos town. @
L Paradise 7 km (4 miles) E.
Kamári is a good base for
exploring the southwest coast,
where the island’s best beaches
can be found. Mostly reached
via steep tracks from the main
road, the most famous is
Palaió Pylí castle perched precariously on a cliff’s edge Paradise beach with fine white
sands. Kamári beach leads to
5 Palaió Pylí located near the airport, was the 5th-century-AD Christian
built by the Knights of Rhodes basilica of Agios Stéfanos which
Παλαιό Πυλί
(see pp198–9) as a prison in has mosaics and Ionic columns.
15 km (9 miles) W of Kos town. the 14th century, and was
@ to Pylí. Tel 22420 41204. constantly bombarded by Environs
pirates. Its massive crenellated Kéfalos, on the mountainous
The deserted Byzantine town battlements and squat tower peninsula inland from Kamári,
of Palaió Pylí is perched on a now overlook an army base, is known for its thyme, honey
crag 4 km (2 miles) above the and there are good views and cheeses. Sights include the
farming village of Pylí, with the towards Kardámaina. The ruined Castle of the Knights,
remains of its castle walls built inner gateway still bears the said to be the lair of a dragon.
into the rock. Here the Blessed coat of arms of the Grand According to legend, Hippo-
Christodoulos built the 11th- Master Pierre crates’s daughter
century church of the Ypapandís d’Aubusson was transformed
(Presentation of Jesus), before (1476–1503) into a dragon
he went to Pátmos (see p174). and there by Artemis, and
In Pylí lies the Classical thólos are two small awaits the kiss of
tomb of the mythical hero-king chapels within a knight to resume
Chármylos It has 12 under- the walls. human form.
ground crypts, which are now Above Kéfalos is
surmounted by the church Environs the windmill of
of Stavrós. The road Antimácheia castle Papavasílis, and
north from battlements nearby at Palátia
Antimácheia are the remains of
6 Kardámaina leads to the charming port Astypálaia, the birthplace of
Καρδάμαινα of Mastichári. There are good Hippocrates. Neighbouring
fish tavernas here and a long Aspri Pétra cave has yielded
26 km (16 miles) SW of Kos town. @
sandy beach that sweeps into remains. The journey to Moní
L Kardámaina.
dunes at the western end. Agíou Ioánni, 6 km (4 miles)
Once a quiet fishing village noted On the way to the dunes, south of Kéfalos, passes through
for its ceramics, Kardámaina is the the ruins of an early Christian dramatic scenery, and a track
island’s biggest resort – brash, basilica,with good mosaics, leads to the beach of Agios
loud and packed with young can be seen. Ioánnis Theológos.
British and Scandinavian tourists.
It has miles of crowded golden
sands and a swinging nightlife.
It is quieter further south, with
some exclusive developments.
Sights include a Byzantine
church and the remains of a
Hellenistic theatre.
7 Antimácheia
Αντιμάχεια
25 km (16 miles) W of Kos town.
k@
Kos
Tílos,
Rhodes
Páloi
Mandráki
Gialiskári
Kolkáki Loutrá
J
Palaiókastro Emporeiós Liés
Pachiá
NISYROS Ammos
Profítis Ilías
698 m (2,290 ft)
Agios Ioánnis
Sté Theológos Around the Island
cra fan
te Nísyros is lush and green with
r Nikiá
os
Tílos
Τήλος
* 500. g @ Livádia. n Megálo
Chorió (22463 60500). L Eristós 10 km
(6 miles) NW of Livádia. ∑ tilos.gr
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
188 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Sými Tílos
Nimos
Σύμη
Rhodes
Ever since classical times, rocky, barren Sými
has thrived on the success of its sponge-diving Agía
Marína
fleet and boat-building industry, which Emporeiós Nos
once launched 500 ships a year. By the Moní Agíou Sými
Noúlia
250 m (820 ft)
Michaïl Town Agios
17th century it was the third-richest Roukounióti Pédi Nikólaos
island in the Dodecanese. The
Agios Aimilianós
Italian occupation in 1912 and Agios
J
Cape
Geórgios
the arrival of artificial sponges Kefála Dissálona
and steam power ended Sými’s Agios Vasílios SYMI
good fortunes. Its population Nanoú
Pidima
had fallen from 23,000 to
Gialesino
6,000 by World War II, and
the mansions built in its Megalonisi
Sými Town
Panormítis
The harbour area, Gialós, is one
of the most beautiful in Greece, Moní Taxiárchi
surrounded by Neo-Classical Michaïl
houses and elaborate churches Panormíti
built on the hillside. Gialós is
often busy with day trippers, Teftloysa
particularly late morning and
early afternoon.
A clock tower (1884) stands
0 kilometres 4
on the western side of the
harbour where the ferries dock; unusual pebble mosaic of 0 miles 2
beyond is the shingle bay of fierce mermaids who, in Greek
Nos beach. Next door to the folklore, are responsible for
town hall, the Maritime storms that sink ships. The Judgment, from the late
Museum has an interesting Sými Museum, high up in 16th century, by the painter
record of Sými’s seafaring past. Chorió, has a small but Geórgios Klontzás.
Gialós is linked to the upper interesting collection of
town, Chorió, by a road and costumes and traditional items. E Maritime Museum
also by 375 marble steps. Beyond the museum is the Plateía Ogdóis Maïou. Tel 69516 56250.
Chorió comprises a maze of ruined Byzantine kástro and Open May–Oct: 9am–10pm daily;
lanes and distinctive houses, medieval walls. Megáli Panagía Nov–Apr: by appointment only. &
often with traditional interiors. church, the jewel of the kástro, E Sými Museum
The late 19th-century church has an important post- Chorió. Tel 22460 71114.
of Agios Geórgios has an Byzantine icon of the Last Closed for renovation.
The pastel-coloured houses of Chorió on the ancient acropolis overlooking Sými’s harbour
For keys to symbols see back flap
THE DODECANESE 189
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 2,600. n Sými town (22460
72444). _ Orthodox Easter cele-
brations around the island; Parade
for signing of Dodecanese Treaty at
Gialós: 8 May. ∑ dimos-symis.gr
Transport
g @ Gialós, Sými town.
Rhodes
Ρόδος
Rhodes, the capital of the Dodecanese, was an important
centre in the 5th to 3rd centuries BC. It was part of both the
Roman and Byzantine empires, before being conquered by
the Knights of St John. They occupied Rhodes from 1306 to
1522, and their medieval walled city still dominates Rhodes
town. Ottoman and Italian rulers followed. Fringed by sandy
beaches, and with good hiking and lively nightlife, Rhodes
attracts thousands of tourists each year.
5 Ancient Kámeiros
The stunning ruins of this Soroní
once-thriving Doric city include Kalavárda
a 6th-century-BC Temple of
Athena Polias.
Platý
Ancient
Kámeiros
Skála
Kameírou
6 Skála Kameírou
Lir
Profítis Ilías
enó
Siána Láerma
Monólithos
Moní Thárri
Foúrnoi Istrios
Moní
Profília Ypsenís
Siána is a pretty
traditional hill- Apolakkiá Asklipieío
village, known for Lárdos
its locally distilled Arnítha Vátio
spirit, soúma
7 Emponas (see p203). Moní Skiádi
The slopes around this traditional Skalon Gennádio
íti
town have been cultivated with
vines by the Emery winery since
the 1920s.
Lachaniá
8 Monólithos
The village is dominated by the Kattaviá
15th-century castle, perched high
on a massive rock. It was built by
the Knights of Rhodes. Plimmýri
0 Moní Thárri
Hidden away in the
9 Moní Skiádi countryside, this monastery
This monastery was built in the 18th and has a domed church that is
19th centuries and is famous for its icon Prasonísi home to several frescoes, some
of the Panagía, or the Blessed Virgin. dating to the 12th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 191
Kalythiés Faliráki
Petaloúdes
Psínthos Ladikó
Bay
RHODES Afántou
L
oú
tar
Kolýmpia
i
Eptá Pigés
Moní Tsampíkas
Tsampíka 1 . Rhodes Town
Mandráki harbour is at the
Stégna
Archángelos centre of Rhodes town, which
is one of Greece’s most
popular tourist destinations.
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 6
q . Líndos
One of the island’s most visited
sites, the acropolis at Líndos
towers over the town from its
clifftop position.
For keys to symbols see back flap
192 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
OU
Mustafa Mosque
IR
OM
Rejep Pasha
AG
Mosque IO
Ibrahim Pasha U
Mosque
FA
N
O
U
U
O
IR
M
O
Koskinoú
(St John’s) gate PY
TH
AG
O
RA
E M O U
A
KR
SO
PY
TH
AG
OR
I P O L
A
Plateía Ippokrátous
S
LO
of the Marine Gate has a TE
medieval fountain. TO
T L
IS
AR
Martyrs
U PINDAR
Synagogue and
Jewish quarter
Tower of Italy
Karetoú (Akantiá) gate
PEISIDORO
K
IS
H
T
IN
IO
U
PL
Panagías
(Virgin’s) gate
St Catherine’s gate
Marine Gate
This gate (Pýli Agías Aikaterínis), with 0 metres 100
twin towers, is the main route into the 0 yards 100
Old Town from Commercial harbour.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 193
harbour. @ Mandráki.
N
O
LL
IP Tilevólon (St
O
PO
AP
D Anthony’s) gate
A O R F E
M
O O S
U Ampouáz
(d’Amboise)
gate
S
U
O
R
SO
U
shown here (see pp198–9).
O
P
S
I P
U
O
T
AP
EL
LO
U
St Peter’s
tower
. Palace of the Grand Masters
Temple of This was the final line of defence for the
Aphrodite Knights. The palace (see pp196–7)
is now home to two permanent
exhibitions about ancient
Eleftherías and medieval Rhodes.
(Liberty) gate
St Paul’s
Byzantine Museum tower
(see p194)
Navarcheíou
Decorative Arts gate Archaeological
Museum (see p194) Museum
Housed in the
Arsenal gate flamboyant Gothic
Knights’ hospital,
The walls, dating from completed in 1481, the
1330, are up to 12 m (40 ft) museum displays a large
thick and 4 km (2 miles) collection, including
long. Tours start at the this Hellenistic statue
Palace of the Grand Masters. of a horse (see p194).
194 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
E Archaeological Museum
Plateía Mouseíou. Tel 22413 65256. An arched street in the Old Town
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–7:40pm daily
(from 1:30pm Mon); Nov–Mar: E Medieval Rhodes and
8am–2:40pm Tue–Sun. Closed main Ancient Rhodes Exhibitions
public hols. & Palace of the Grand Masters. Tel 22413
The museum is housed in the 65270. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
New Hospital of the Knights, daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
built in 1440–81. Most famous of Closed main public hols. & 7
the exhibits is the 1st-century-BC Both of these permanent
marble Aphrodite of Rhodes. exhibitions can be seen as part
Other gems include a 2nd-cen- of a tour of the Palace of the
tury-BC head of Helios the sun Grand Masters (see pp196–7).
god, discovered at The Medieval Rhodes
the Temple of Helios exhibition is titled: Rhodes
on the nearby hill of from the 4th century AD
The imposing 16th-century Monte Smith. The grave to the Turkish Conquest
d’Amboise gate stelae from the necrop- (1522). It gives an insight
olis of Kámeiros give a into trade and everyday
The Collachium good insight into life in Byzantine and
This area includes the Street of 5th-century-BC life. medieval times, with
the Knights (see pp198–9) and Exhibits also include Byzantine icons, Italian
the Palace of the Grand Masters coins, jewellery and and Spanish ceramics,
(see pp196–7). The main gates ceramics from the armour and militaria.
of entry from the New Town Mycenaean graves Aphrodite of Rhodes, The exhibition titled
are d’Amboise gate and the at nearby Ialyssós. Archaeological Museum Ancient Rhodes: 2,400
Eleftherías (Liberty) gate. The for- Years is situated off
mer was built in 1512 by Grand E Decorative Arts Museum the inner court. It displays
Master d’Amboise, leading from Plateía Argyrokástrou. Tel 22413 finds from archaeological
Dimokratías to the palace. The 65246. Closed for renovation; call to investigations on the island.
Eleftherías gate was built by the check opening times. & 7
Italians and leads from Eleftherías This museum features Lindian E Byzantine Museum
to Plateía Sýmis. An archway tiles, costumes and a reconstruc- Apéllou. Tel 22410 27657. Closed for
leads from here into Apelloú. ted traditional Rhodian house. renovation; exhibits currently in the
Palace of the Grand Masters (see
pp196–7). &
Dating from the 11th century,
this Byzantine church became
the Knights’ cathedral, but was
converted under Turkish rule into
the Mosque of Enderum, known
locally as the Red Mosque.
Now a museum, it houses a fine
collection of icons and frescoes.
Among the exhibits are striking
examples of 12th-century
paintings in the dynamic Com-
nenian style from Moní Thárri
(see p204) and late 14th-century
frescoes from Chálki’s aban-
Courtyard at the Knights’ Hospital, now the Archaeological Museum doned church of Agios Zacharías.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 195
. Medusa Chamber
The mythical Gorgon Medusa, with
hair of writhing serpents, forms the
centrepiece of this important late
Hellenistic mosaic. The chamber also
features Chinese and Islamic vases.
Laocoön Chamber
A copy of the sculpture of the death of the Trojan,
Laocoön, and his sons dominates the hall. The 1st-
century-BC original by Rhodian masters Athenodoros,
Agesandros and Polydoros is in the Vatican.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 197
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Ippotón. Tel 22413 65270.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm
Tue–Sun. Closed main
public holidays.
& 7 limited. -
. Central Courtyard
The palace is built around a courtyard paved
with geometric marble tiles. The north side is
lined with Hellenistic statues taken from the
Odeion in Kos (see p181).
. Main Gate
This imposing entrance, built by
the Knights, has twin horseshoe-
shaped towers with swallowtail
turrets. The coat of arms is that of
Grand Master del Villeneuve, who
ruled from 1319 to 1346.
KEY
Access to the
Turkish garden
North Side
Palace of the Grand Arched bridge connecting Inn
Masters of Spain and Inn of Provence
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 199
Pierre d’Aubusson,
Grand Master from 1476 to
1503, is featured in this market
scene. He oversaw a highly
productive time in terms of
building in Rhodes, including
completion of the New
Hospital of the Knights (now
the Archaeological Museum).
200 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 201
KO S
KAS
T Beach
3 Government House
ELLO
RIZO
U
4 Evangelismós Villa
GEO
RGIO Kleoboulos
5 Agios Nikólaos U P
Airport A PA PLATEIA
6 Mandráki Harbour 15 km (10 miles)
NIK
OL KOUNTOURIOTI
IROON
AO Nautical
UL I
U
7 Néa Agora Club
OPO
DRAGOUMI
K A ZOU LI Mosque of
K ATH
Murad Reis Government
UI
DO
House
AN
U National
AR THIO
P O LY T E K H N I O U
AM
F S TA Theatre
G. E
IS
M A N D ILA R A PLATEIA
AMERIK
VASILEOS Agios
GEROGIOU II Evangelismós Nikólaos
IONOS
ION
NEW
P L AT
D HEKANIS
2 8 - OK T O VRI O U TOWN
EIA E
PLATEIA 2 5 - MA RT I OU
FAN O U RAK I
V. GEORGIOU I
LEFT
HO
ON D
HE R
T H EM E L I
U
Mandráki
R IO
IAS
LO N D
Harbour
KA
AMMOCHOSTOU
LA MA
ETHE
MP
RA A
KI S TIR
A PLA
U
.
S . VE N IZ ELO
DI PLATEIA G A
L LI A
AK KYPROU S
OU
Néa
Agora
0 metres 250 PLATEIA
A. NEORIOU
PA P PLATEIA
0 yards 250 AGO
U ALEXANDREIAS
Eleftherías
Gate
Monte Smith,
Rodíni Park
Harbour
250m (300 yards)
D’Amboise
Gate OLD TOWN
Néa Agora and islands. Behind the Néa an unusual square shape and
Mandráki is backed by the New Agora, in the grounds of the is used for performances of
Market or Néa Agora, with its Palace of the Grand Masters, a ancient drama in the summer.
Moorish domes and lively cafés. sound and light show is held. Only three columns remain of
Inside the market are food stalls, This takes place daily in one of the once-mighty Temple of
gift shops, small souvláki bars four languages and tells the Pythian Apollo, and there are
and cafés. It is popular as a story of the overthrow of the other ruins of the temples of
meeting place for people Knights by Suleiman the Athena Polias and Zeus. Nearby,
coming from outlying villages Magnificent in 1522. on Voreíou Ipeírou, are the
remains of the Asklepieíon, a
Monte Smith temple dedicated to the god
Monte Smith, a hill to the of healing, Asklepios.
west of town, offers
panoramic views over Rodíni Park
Rhodes town and the The beautiful Rodíni Park, 3 km
coast. It is named Monte (2 miles) to the south of Rhodes
Smith after the English town, is now home to the
Admiral Sir Sidney Smith, Rhodian deer sanctuary, and
who kept watch from perfect for a break away from
there for Napoleon’s fleet the crowded centre. It is the site
in 1802. It is also known where the orator Aeschines
as Agios Stéphanos. built the School of Rhetoric in
The hill is the site of 330 BC, attended by both Julius
a 3rd-century-BC Caesar and Cassius, although
Hellenistic city which was there are no remains to visit.
excavated by the Italians. Sights include a 3rd-century-BC
They restored the 3rd- necropolis with Doric rock
century-BC stadium, the tombs and several Ptolemaic,
2nd-century-BC acropolis rock-cut tombs. In medieval
The domed centrepiece of the New Market from and a small theatre or times the Knights grew their
Mandráki harbour odeion. This was built in herbs at Rodíni.
For keys to symbols see back flap
202 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
6 Skála Kameírou winery since the 1920s and is Geórgios, both decorated with
Σκάλα Καμείρου also famous for its folk dancing frescoes. Views from the top
and festivals. Although the are impressive.
50 km (30 miles) SW of Rhodes town. village is popular for organized Down a rough road south
* 100. @
Greek nights, Emponas has from the castle is the sheltered
The fishing harbour of Skála managed to maintained its sandy beach of Foúrni, which
Kameírou makes a good place traditional ways. has a seasonal taverna.
for lunch. It was the Doric
city of an ancient port, and Environs
the outline of a Lycian tomb 8 Monólithos Between Emponas and
remains on the cliff side. Μονόλιθος Monólithos, the pretty hill
Nearby, Kritinía castle is village of Siána is famous for
one of the Knights’ more 80 km (50 miles) SW of Rhodes town. its honey and fiery soúma –
* 250. @ L Foúrni 5 km
impressive ruins. Its three a kind of grape spirit, like
(3 miles) SW.
levels are attributed to different the Cretan raki. The villagers
Grand Masters. Clinging to Named after its monolith, a crag were granted a licence by
the hillside, a cluster of white with a dramatic 235 m- (770ft-) the Italians to make the
houses form the picturesque drop to the sea, Monólithos is spirit, and you can sample
village of Kritinía. the most important village in both the firewater and
the southwest. honey at the roadside cafés.
Situated at the foot of Mount The village houses have
7 Emponas Akramýtis, the village is 2 km traditional clay roofs, and
Έμπωνας (1 mile) from Monólithos castle. the domed church of Agios
This impregnable 15th-century Panteleïmon has restored
55 km (34 miles) SW of Rhodes town. fortress, built by Grand Master 18th-century frescoes.
* 1,500. @
d’Aubusson, is perched
Situated in the wild foothills spectacularly on the vast grey
of Mount Attávyros, the rock. Its massive walls enclose 9 Moní Skiádi
atmospheric village of Emponas two small 15th-century chapels, Μονή Σκιάδι
has been home to the Cair Agios Panteleïmon and Agios
8 km (5 miles) S of Apolakkiá.
@ to Apolakkiá. Open daily. 7
e Eptá Pigés
Επτά Πηγές
26 km (16 miles) S of Rhodes town.
@ to Kolýmpia. L Tsampíka 5 km
(3 miles) SE.
Eptá Pigés, or Seven Springs,
is one of the island’s leading
woodland beauty spots.
The rooftops of Archángelos village in the Valley of Aíthona Peacocks strut beside streams
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
RHODES 205
t Koskinoú
Κοσκινού
10 km (6 miles) S of Rhodes town.
* 1,200. @ L Réni Koskinoú
2 km (1 mile) NE.
A trireme warship is
carved into the rock.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
1 km (0.5 mile) E of Líndos village.
Tel 22440 31258. Open Jul–Sep:
8am–7pm Tue–Sun, noon–7pm
Mon; Oct–Jun: 8am–2:40pm Tue–
Sun. Closed main public hols. &
Reconstruction of the
Acropolis (c. AD 300)
Doric stoa
Medieval
entrance to the
The palace of the acropolis
commander of
the fortress was
added in the
period of the Roman temple of
Knights. Diocletian, 3rd
century AD
208 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Nimporió with Agios Nikólaos church towering above the surrounding buildings
Chálki The main sight in Nimporió is town hall and post office plus a
Χάλκη the church of Agios Nikólaos fine stone clock tower. Nearby is
* 280. g Nimporió. n Piátsa,
with its elegant bell tower, the sandy Póntamos beach, which
Nimporió (22460 45100). _ Chorió:
highest in the Dodecanese, is quiet and shallow and
Panagía 15 Aug. L Nimporió. tiered like a wedding cake. suitable for children.
∑ dimoschalkis.gr The church is also known for
its magnificent black and Around the Island
Chálki was once a thriving white choklákia pebble mosaic The island is almost traffic-free,
sponge-fishing island, but was courtyard depicting birds and so it is ideal for walkers. An
virtually abandoned when its the tree of life. The watchful hour’s walk uphill from
sponge divers emigrated to eye painted over the main Nimporió is the abandoned
Florida in search of work in the door is to ward off evil spirits. former capital of Chorió. Its
early 1900s. Tourism has grown A row of ruined windmills Crusader castle perches high on
steadily as the island has been stands above the harbour, a crag, worth a visit for the coat
smartened up. Once fertile, which also boasts an Italianate of arms and Byzantine frescoes
Chálki’s water table was
infiltrated by sea water and the
island is now barren with fresh Choklákia Mosaics
water shipped in by tanker. A distinctive characteristic of the
There is little cultivation and Dodecanese, these decorative
produce is imported from mosaics were used for floors from
Rhodes. Sheep and goats roam Byzantine times onwards. An
the rocky hillside. exquisite art form as well as a
functional piece of architecture,
Nimporió they were made from small sea
Chálki’s harbour and only pebbles, usually black and white
settlement, Nimporió is a quiet but occasionally reddish, wedged
and picturesque village with a together to form a kaleidoscope
Neo-Classical flavour. of raised patterns. Kept wet, the
mosaics also helped to keep
houses cool in the heat.
Early examples featured abstract,
A choklákia mosaic outside Moní
formal and mainly geometric designs
Taxiárchi in Sými
such as circles. Later on the
decorations became more flamboyant,
with floral patterns and symbols
depicting the lives of the householders
with ships, fish and trees. Aside from
Chálki, the houses of Líndos also have
fine mosaics (see pp206–7). On Sými
the church of Agios Geórgios (see
p188) depicts a furious mermaid about
A goat farmer in Chálki on his to dash a ship beneath the waves. Circular choklákia mosaic in Chálki
journey home
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp315–16 and pp332–4
THE DODECANESE 209
Kastellórizo
Καστελλόριζο
* 280. ~ 3 km (2 miles) S of
Kastellórizo town. g Kastellórizo
town. n 500 m (1,640 ft) N of port
(22460 49269).
Sariá
Kárpathos
Κάρπαθος Chálki,
Rhodes
Wild, rugged Kárpathos is the third-largest island in the Dodecanese.
Dramatically beautiful, it has remained largely unspoiled despite Vroukoúnda
increasing tourism. Like most of the Dodecanese, it has had a Avlóna
chequered history, including periods of domination by both the J
Olympos
Diafáni
Romans and Byzantines. Once known as Porfiris, after the red dye
that is manufactured locally, the island’s name today is thought
to derive from the word arpaktós (robbery), as the island was a
popular pirate lair in medieval times.
Kárpathos Town
KARPATHOS
Kárpathos town, also known
as Pigádia, is the island’s main
Apélla
port and capital, sheltered
Kalí Límni
in the southeast of Vróntis bay. 685 m (2,250 ft)
Once an ordinary working Lefkós
town, it now has hotels strung Kyrá
out all around the bay. The Panagiá
Apéri
waterfront is bustling with Othos
cafés and restaurants that
serve international fare.
Kárpathos Town
Opposite the Italianate town
hall, Kárpathos park has an 0 kilometres 5 Menetés
open-air display of ancient 0 miles 3 Arkása
objects. Exhibits include
Profítis Ilías
an early Christian Armáthia 510 m (1,670 ft)
marble font and Afiartis Crete
(Siteía)
objects discovered
in 5th-century-BC Agía Marína Frý
Mycenaean tombs Kásos
on the island. Crete
(Siteía, Irákleio)
Environs Ch
él
South of B a ath r os
y
Kárpathos town
there is a pretty walk has quaint vine-covered Around the Island
through olive groves to the streets. The traditional pastel- A mountainous spine divides
main resort of Amoopí, 7 km coloured houses have attractive the wild north from the softer,
(4 miles) away, with its white- courtyards and gardens. The fertile south. On the west coast,
washed houses, coves and a village boasts two churches, 8 km (5 miles) from Menetés,
string of sandy beaches. Above the imposing church of the the village of Arkása has been
Amoopí, the village of Menetés, Assumption of the Virgin, transformed into a resort.
nestling at 350 m (1,150 ft) on and the Byzantine church of In 1923, the 4th-century
the slopes of Mount Profítis Ilías, Agios Mamas. church of Agía Anastasía
was discovered. It contained
some fine early Byzantine
mosaics, the best of which
depicts two deer gazing into
a water jug, now in the Rhodes
Archaeological Museum
(see p194).
Apéri, 8 km (5 miles) north
of Kárpathos town, was the
island’s capital until 1892, and
is said to be one of the richest
villages in Greece. It sits 300 m
(985 ft) up Mount Kalí Límni
and has fountains and fine
houses with exquisite gardens
The white mansions of Apéri, clustered on the hillside dating from the 1800s.
Colourful Kastellórizo town, on the island of the same name For keys to symbols see back flap
THE DODECANESE 213
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 6,500. n Kárpathos town
(22453 60128). _ Panagía at
Olympos: 15 Aug.
Transport
k 17 km (11 miles) S of
Kárpathos town. g Kárpathos
town, Diáfani. @ corner of 28th
Oktovríou & Dimokratías,
Kárpathos town.
THE CYCLADES
Andros • Tínos • Mýkonos • Delos • Sýros • Kéa • Kýthnos
• Sérifos • Sífnos • Páros • Náxos • Amorgós • Ios • Síkinos
• Folégandros • Mílos • Santoríni
Deriving their name from the word kyklos, meaning “circle”, because they
surround the sacred island of Delos, the Cyclades are the most visited island
group. They are everyone’s Greek island ideal, with their dazzling white
houses, twisting cobbled alleyways, blue-domed churches, hilltop windmills
and stunning beaches.
The islands were the cradle of the There are 56 islands in the group, 24
Cycladic civilization (3000–1000 BC). inhabited, some tiny and undisturbed,
The early Cycladic culture developed in others famous holiday playgrounds.
the Bronze Age and has inspired artists They are the ultimate islands for sun, sea
ever since with its white marble figurines. and sand holidays, with good nightlife on
The Minoans from Crete colonized the Mýkonos and Ios. Sýros, the regional and
islands during the middle Cycladic era, commercial capital, is one of the few
making Akrotíri on Santoríni a major islands in the group where tourism is
trading centre. During the late Cycladic not the mainstay. Cycladic life is generally
period the Mycenaeans dominated, and centred on the village, which is typically
Delos became their religious capital. The divided between the harbour and the
Dorians invaded the islands in the 11th upper village, or chóra, often topped
century BC, a calamity that marked the with a kástro.
start of the Dark Ages. Most of the Cyclades are rocky and arid,
Venetian rule (1204–1453) had a strong with the exceptions of wooded and lush-
influence, evident today in the medieval valleyed Andros, Kéa and Náxos. This
kástra seen on many islands and the variety ensures the islands are popular
Catholic communities on Tínos, Náxos with artists, walkers and those seeking
and Sýros. quiet relaxation.
Kímolos
Antímilos Psathi
Polýaigos
Pláka Apollonía
Adámas
Mílos Zefyría
Provatás
Folégandros
Crete
Karavostási
Folégandros
Key
Minor road
Scenic route
High-season, direct ferry route
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
ATHENS
Chíos,
Ikaría
Vólos,
Thessaloníki
Locator Map
Pánormos Pátmos,
Rafína,
Pýrgos Kolimbíthra Ikaría
Exómpourgo
Agios Ioánnis
Tínos
Mýkonos
Platýs Gialós
Ríneia
Delos
Ikaría
Kos
Náxos Apóllon
Páros Komiakí
Náxos
Donoússa
Náousa
Pároikia Glinádo Donoússa
Apeíranthos
Léfkes Chalkí
Píso Filóti
Livádi
Alyki
Koufonísi
Antíparos Tholária Astypálaia
Chóra
Kéros Aegiáli
Shinoússa
Agios Geórgios Mesariá
Irákleia Katápola Amorgós
Islands at a Glance
Ios Amorgós Amorgós p243
Andros pp218–20
Síkinos
Gialós Delos pp228–9
Síkinos
Folégandros p245
Aloprónoia
Manganári Ios p244
Anidro Kéa p233
Kýthnos p234
Mílos pp246–7
Mýkonos pp224–5
Náxos pp240–43
Oía Páros pp236–9
Santoríni pp248–51
Thirasía Firá
Sérifos pp234–5
Santoríni Anáfi
Néa Kaméni Sífnos p235
Akrotíri Astypálaia Síkinos pp244–5
Períssa Anáfi
Sýros pp230–33
Crete
Tínos pp222–3
For keys to symbols see back flap
218 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Aténi
Agios
Ano Gávrio
Pétros ANDROS Steniés
Giália
J Zoödóchos Apoíkia Andros Town
Varsamiá Gávrio Pigí Arnás
Fellós Káto
Katákoilos Ménites
Mpatsí
Delavógias Mesariá
Rafína,
Skiáthos Moní Panachrántou
Ancient
Palaiópoli
Palaiókastro
Sýros, Kórthio
Tinos
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
Cycladic Art
With their simple geometric shapes and purity of line, Cycladic marble figurines are the
legacy of the islands’ Bronze Age civilization (see pp38–9) and the first real expression
of Greek art. They all come from graves and are thought to represent, or be offerings to,
an ancient deity. The earliest figures, from before 3000 BC, are slim and violin-shaped.
By the time of the Keros-Sýros culture of 2700–2300 BC, the forms are recognizably
human and usually female. They range from palm-sized up to life-size, the proportions
remaining consistent. Obsidian blades, marble bowls prefiguring later Greek art, abstract
jewellery and pottery, including the strange “frying pans”, also survive. The examples
of Cycladic art shown here are from the Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens (see p301).
Cycladic artefacts are also in many museums throughout the Cyclades.
Kalloní TINOS
Kómi
Exómpourgo
Kámpos
Falátados
0 miles 3 Sýros,
Páros
Andros, Skiáthos,
For keys to symbols see back flap Thessaloníki
THE CYCLADES 223
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 9,000. n corner of Kioníon.
& Vlacháki, Tínos town (22830
23733). _ Annunciation &
Panagía at Panagía Evangelístrias,
Tínos town: 25 Mar & 15 Aug.
Transport
g Tínos town. @ Quay,
Tínos town.
The pretty village of Pýrgos in the north of the island Cyclades, until it surrendered to
the Turks in 1714. You can see
Also within the complex is a Kechrovouníou, one of the remains of a few ancient walls
museum with items by local largest convents in Greece. on the crag, medieval houses, a
sculptors and painters, including You can visit the cell where fountain and three churches.
works by sculptors Antónios Sister Pelagía had her visions From Kómi, to the north, a
Sóchos, Geórgios Vitális and and the chest where her valley runs down to the sea at
Ioánnis Voúlgaris. The art gallery embalmed head is kept. Kolibíthra, with two sandy bays:
has works of the Ionian School, At 640 m (2,100 ft) high, the one is deserted; the other has
a Rubens, a Rembrandt and great rock of Exómpourgo was rooms and tavernas and is great
19th-century works by interna- the site of the Archaic city of for surfing (see p17).
tional artists. Tínos and later became home to Overlooking the harbour of
the Venetian fortress of St Elena. Pánormos in the northwest
E Archaeological Museum Built by the Ghisi family after the of the island, the pretty village
Megalóchari Tel 22830 22670. Doge handed over the island to of Pýrgos is famous for its sculp-
Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. them in 1207, the fortress was ture school. The area is known
Closed main public hols. & the toughest stronghold in the for its green marble, and the
On Megalóchari, near the church, stonework here is among the
is the Archaeological Museum, finest in the islands. Distinctive,
which has displays of sculptures carved marble fanlights and
of nereids (sea-nymphs) and balconies decorate the island
dolphins found at the Sanctuary villages. There are examples at
of Poseidon and Amphitrite. the Museum of Marble Crafts,
There is also a 1st-century-BC one of seven museums dotted
sundial by Andronikos Kyrrestes, around the island. The old
who designed Athens’ Tower of grammar school is now the
the Winds (see p297), and some School of Fine Arts, and a shop
huge 8th-century-BC storage jars in the main square exhibits and
from ancient Tínos on the rock sells the students’ works.
of Exómpourgo.
E Museum of Marble Crafts
Environs Pýrgos. Tel 22830 31290. Open
East of town, the closest beach is The interior of the 12th-century 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (winter: to
shingly Agios Fokás. To the west Moní Kechrovouníou 5pm). & 7
is the popular beach at Stavrós,
with a jetty that was built in
Classical times. To the north near The Peristeriones
Kiónia are the foundations of the (Dovecotes) of Tínos
4th-century-BC Sanctuary of The villages of Tínos are studded
Poseidon and Amphitrite, his with around 1,300 beautiful white
sea-nymph bride. The excava- dovecotes (peristeriónes), all
tions here have yielded many elaborately decorated. They have
columns, or kiónia, after which two storeys: the lower floor is for
the surrounding area is named. storage, the upper houses the doves
and is usually topped with stylized
winged finials or mock doves. The
Around the Island
breeding of doves was introduced
Tínos is easy to explore, as there by the Venetians. Although also
are plenty of taxis and a good found on the islands of Andros and
bus service around the island. Sífnos, the peristeriónes of Tínos are A dovecote in Kámpos with
North of Tínos town is the considered the finest. traditional elaborate patterns
12th-century walled Moní
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
224 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Sýros, Kalafáti
a good taverna. Next is Andros Ano Merá Panagía i
Tourlianí
Mýkonos MYKONOS
Town
Eliá
Super
Agios Ioánnis Paradise
Páros, Platýs Gialós
Donoúsa Paradise
Parágka
0 kilometres 4
0 miles 2
For keys to symbols see back flap The bay and buildings of Ermoúpoli, Sýros
228 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Delos Archaeological
Δήλος Museum
This displays
Tiny, uninhabited Delos is one of the most most of the
important archaeological sites in Greece and a finds from the
UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to legend, island, including
storage pots
Leto gave birth to Artemis and Apollo here. The used for offerings
Ionians arrived in about 1000 BC, bringing the and koúroi
worship of Apollo and founding the annual Delia dating from the
Festival, during which games and music were 7th century BC.
played in his honour. By 700 BC, Delos was a major
religious centre. First a place of pilgrimage, it later
became a thriving commercial port particularly
in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC. It is now
an open-air archaeological museum
with mosaics and marble ruins covered Stadium and
in wild flowers in spring. Gymnasium
KEY
. Lion Terrace
The famous lions (now replaced by
replicas) were set up to overlook and
protect the Sacred Lake. They were
carved from Naxian marble at the end
of the 7th century BC. Originally there
were nine, but now only five remain.
1000 BC Ionians 422 BC Athens exiles Delians to Asia Minor; 88 BC Delos sacked
arrive on Delos and Delians return the following year by Mithridates
introduce Apollo 426 BC Second purification
166 BC Romans return
worship 478 BC Athenians make Delos the Delos to Athens;
centre of the first Athenian League trade flourishes
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
THE CYCLADES 229
. Theatre
Built in 300 BC to hold 5,500 spectators, the
theatre was sited in a natural amphitheatre.
On its west side, a huge, vaulted cistern
collected rainwater draining from the
theatre and supplied part of the town.
Key
. Theatre Quarter Theatre quarter
In Hellenistic and Roman times the
wealthy built houses near the
theatre, many with opulent,
colonnaded courtyards. House of Dioscourides
and Cleopatra
Two statues represent the couple
Cleopatra and Dioscourides, who
lived here in the 2nd century BC.
House of Dionysos
Inside the house is a mosaic
depicting Dionysos riding a
leopard. Twenty-nine tesserae
are used just to make up the
animal’s eye.
230 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Sýros
Σύρος
Rocky Sýros, or Sýra, is the commercial, administrative and
cultural centre of the Cyclades. Archaeological digs have
revealed finds of the Cycladic civilization dating from 2800 to Town hall, designed by Ernst Ziller
2300 BC. The inhabitants converted to Catholicism under the
French Capuchins in the Middle Ages. The 19th century saw hero Admiral Andréas Miaoúlis.
Sýros become a wealthy and powerful port in the eastern The square is dominated by the
Mediterranean. Though Sýros does not live off tourism, more vast Neo-Classical town hall
(1876), designed by the German
visitors arrive each year attracted by its traditional charm. architect Ernst Ziller.
The Archaeological Museum,
up the steps to the left of the
town hall, houses bronze and
marble utensils from the 3000
BC Cycladic settlement of
Chalandrianí. Also on display
are Cycladic statuettes and
Roman finds. Left of the town
hall is the Historical
Archives Office.
Nearby, on Plateía
The harbour at Ermoúpoli Vardáka, is the
Apollo Theatre,
1 Ermoúpoli pizzerias, the grand square is the designed in 1864
Ερμούπολη city’s hub and meeting place, by French archi-
especially for the evening stroll, tect Chabeau
* 13,000. g @ Aktí Ethnikís
or vólta. There is also a marble as a copy of
Antístassis. n Thymáton Sperchíon 11
bandstand and a statue La Scala, Milan.
(22810 82500).
dedicated to the revolutionary The first opera
Elegant Ermoúpoli, named after
Hermes, the god of commerce, is Sights at a Glance Statue of Andréas
pór
the largest city in the Cyclades. In Dia Miaoúlis
1 Ermoúpoli pe
the 19th century it was Greece’s
Ca
Agathopés
Poseidonía Chroússa
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Markos Vamvakaris
One of the greatest exponents Practical Information
of rempétika, the Greek blues, * 20,000. n Ermoúpoli (22810
Márkos Vamvakáris (1905–72) 82500). _ Ermoúpoli Maritime
was born in Ano Sýros. Festival: Jul; Agios Nikólaos
Synonymous with hash dens processions at Ermoúpoli: 6 Dec.
and the low life, rempétika was Transport
the music of the urban under- ~ 1 km (0.5 miles) SE of
class. With strong Byzantine Ermoúpoli. g Ermoúpoli. @
and Islamic influences, it is
often played on the baglama
or the bouzouki. Vamvakáris the church of Our Lady of
was a master of the bouzouki
Karmilou (1581), and has 6,000
as well as a noted composer.
Over 20 recordings have been
books and manuscripts in its
made of his music, the earliest Marble iconostasis by Vitális, in the church library. Below it, the Capuchin
of which dates back to the of Agios Nikólaos convent of Agios Ioánnis was
1930s. A bust of Vamvakáris a meeting place and a refuge
looks out to sea from the small and moorings at Tálira, from pirates. Its church was
square named after him in Evangelístria and Agios Nikólaos. founded by Louis XIII of France
Ano Sýros. The charming district of as a poorhouse.
Vrontádo, on the eastern
peak, has a number of E Archaeological
excellent tavernas spread Museum
out on its slopes at night. Plateía Miaoúli. Tel 22810
The Byzantine church of 88487. Open May–Oct:
the Anástasis on top 8am–8pm daily; Nov–Apr:
of the hill has views 8am–3pm Tue, Wed &
Fri–Sun. Closed main
to Tínos and Mýkonos.
public hols.
A half-hour’s climb A ceiling in one of
along Omiroú, or a brief Ermoúpoli’s E Historical
bus ride, brings you to mansions Archives Office
the fortified medieval Plateía Miaoúli. Tel 22810
quarter of Ano Sýros, on the 86891. Open 8:30am–2:30pm Mon–
western peak. It is also known as Fri. Closed main public hols.
Apáno Chóra or Kástro. On the E Vamvakáris Museum
house in Greece, it is noted for way is the Orthodox cemetery Plateía Vamvakári, Ano Sýros. Tel 22810
its fine wall paintings of Mozart of Agios Geórgios with its 84762. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–3:30pm
and Verdi and is still used for elaborate marble mausoleums. Mon–Fri, 10am–3:30pm & 6–8pm Sat,
plays and concerts. Ano Sýros is a maze of white- 10am– 3pm Sun; Οct–Mar: 9am–5pm
Across the street the 1871 washed passages, arches and Mon–Fri. Closed main public hols. &
Velissarópoulos Mansion, now steps forming a huddle
housing the Labour Union, has of interlinking houses.
an elaborate marble façade The architecture is
and splendid painted ceilings unique, making the most
and murals. Beyond here is the of minimal space with
church of Agios Nikólaos (1848) stegádia (slate or straw
with a marble iconostasis by roofs) and tight corners.
the 19th-century sculptor Vitális. The main entrance into
Also by Vitális is the world’s first Ano Sýros is Kamára, an
monument of the unknown ancient passageway
soldier, in front of the church. leading into the main
road, or Piatsa. The
The Upper Town Vamvakáris Museum,
The twin bell towers and dedicated to the life and
distinctive blue and gold dome work of Márkos Vamva-
of Agios Nikólaos mark the start káris, is situated just off
of the Vapória district. Here this road. At the top of
Sýros’s shipowners built their Ano Sýros, the Baroque
Neo-Classical mansions, with Aï-Giórgis, known as the
some of the finest plasterwork, cathedral of St George,
frescoes and marble carvings in contains fine icons.
Greece. The houses cling to the The Jesuit cloister was
coastline above the town’s quays founded in 1744 around A typical street in the Ano Sýros quarter
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
232 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
E Archaeological Museum
Tel 22880 22079. Open 8am–
An Italianate mansion in Poseidonía 3pm Fri. Closed main public
hols. &
from Ermoúpoli through Ioulís
Poseidonía to Foínikas. The The capital, Ioulís, or Ioulída, Around the Island
affluent village contains some with its red terracotta-tiled The port of Korissía can be
Italianate mansions, which are roofs and winding alleyways, packed with Greek families
the country retreats of wealthy is perched on a hillside 5 km on holiday breaks; as can
islanders. A short walk to the (3 miles) above Korissía. Ioulís Vourkári, an attractive and
southwest, quieter Agathopés is has 26 windmills situated on popular resort further north
one of the island’s best beaches, the Mountain of the Mills. The on the island that is famous
with safe waters protected by town is a maze of tunnel-like for its fish tavernas.
an islet opposite. Mégas Gialós, alleys, and has a spectacular The archaeological site
3 km (2 miles) away on the west Neo-Classical town hall (1902) of Agía Eiríni is topped by
coast, is a pretty beach shaded topped with statues of Apollo the chapel of the same
by tamarisk trees. and Athena. On the west name. The Bronze-Age
side are ancient bas-relief settlement was destroyed
sculptures and in the entrance by an earthquake in 1450
5 Vári a sculpture of a woman and BC, and was excavated from
Βάρη child found at ancient Karthaía. 1960 to 1968. First occupied
The Kástro quarter is reached at the end of the Neolithic
8 km (5 miles) S of Ermoúpoli.
through a white archway, which period, around 3000 BC, the
* 1,200. @ L Vári.
stands on the site of the ancient town was fortified twice in
Quaint, sheltered Vári has acropolis. The Venetians, under the Bronze Age and there
become a major resort, but the leadership of Domenico are still remains of the great
it still has traditional houses. Micheli, built their castle in wall with a gate, a tower
On the Chontrá peninsula, 1210 with stones from the and traces of streets. Many
east of the beach, is the site of ancient walls and original of the finds are displayed
the island’s oldest prehistoric Temple of Apollo. There are in the Archaeological
settlement (4000–3000 BC). panoramic views from here. Museum in Ioulís. The most
The Archaeological Museum spectacular monument on
is inside a fine Neo-Classical Kéa is the Hellenistic tower
Kéa house. Its displays include an at Moní Agías Marínas, 5 km
Κέα interesting collection of (3 miles) southwest of Ioulís.
* 2,400. 4 @ Korissía. n 22883
60000. L Gialiskári 6 km (4 miles)
NW of Ioulís. ∑ kea.gr
Sérifos
Σέριφος
* 1,400. g @ Livádi.
n 22810 51210.
Páros
Πάρος
Fertile, thyme-scented Páros is the third-largest Cycladic
island. Since antiquity it has been famous for its white marble,
which ensured the island’s prosperity from the early Cycladic
age through to Roman times. In the 13th century Páros was
ruled by the Venetian Dukes of Náxos, then by the Turks from
1537 until the Greek War of Independence (see pp52–3). Páros
is the hub of the Cycladic ferry system and is busy in high
season. Buffeted by strong winds in July and August, it is a
windsurfer’s paradise. There are several resorts, but it retains
its charm with hill-villages, vineyards and olive groves.
R Ekatontapylianí
W Paroikiá. Tel 22840 21243.
Open daily.
The Ekatontapylianí (Church of a
Hundred Doors) in the west of
town is the oldest in Greece in Fishing boats, Paroikiá harbour
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
PA R O S 237
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 13,000. n 22843 60100.
Náxos, Kos,
Kálymnos, _ Fish & Wine Festival at
Ikaría Náousa: 6 Aug; Festival of
Lágeri the Dormition of the Virgin at
Paroikiá: 15 Aug; Agía Theoktísti
Saint’s Day: 9 Nov.
Náousa
Transport
Sýros, Tínos Moní Longovárdas
k Alykí. g @ Paroikiá.
Kamínia Kriós Trís Ekklisíes
Mýkonos
3 Náousa
Νάουσα
12 km (7 miles) NE of Paroikiá.
* 2,100. n 22840 51220. @
L Lageri 5 km (3 miles) NE.
Outlying Islands
The island of Antíparos used
to be joined to Páros by a
causeway. These days a small
ferry links the two from the
west-coast resort of Poúnta and
there are also caïque trips from
Paroikiá. Antíparos town has a
relaxed and stylish café society,
good for escaping from the
Páros crowds. Activity centres
around the quay and the
Venetian kástro area. The
The convent of Moní Christoú tou Dásous near Petaloúdes kástro is a good example of a
15th-century fortress town,
5 Píso Livádi east-coast beach, 3 km (2 miles) designed with inner courtyards
Πίσω Λιβάδι south, is Chrysí Aktí (Golden and narrow streets to impede
Beach). With 700 m (2,300 ft) pirate attacks (see pp32–3).
15 km (9 miles) SE of Paroikiá. * 50. of golden sand it is perfect for The village also has two
@ to Márpissa. L Poúnta 1 km
families. It is also a well-known 17th-century churches, Agios
(0.5 mile) S.
centre for water sports and has Nikólaos and Evangelismós.
Situated below Léfkes on the hosted the world windsurfing The island has fine beaches,
east coast of the island, the championships. but the star attraction is the
fishing village of Píso Livádi, Dryós, 2 km (1 mile) further massive Cave of Antíparos,
with its sheltered sandy beach, southwest, is an expanding with a breathtaking array of
has grown into a lively small resort but at its heart is a stalactites and stalagmites,
resort. It was once the port pretty village with a duck pond, discovered during Alexander
for Páros’s hill-villages and the tavernas, a small harbour with the Great’s reign. In summer,
island’s marble quarries; today a pebbly beach and a string of boats run to the cave from
there are services operated over sandy coves. Antíparos town and Poúnta
to nearby Agía Anna (see p240) on Páros. From where the boat
on Náxos island. The small docks, it is a half-hour walk up
harbour has a wide range of 6 Petaloúdes the hill of Agios Ioánnis to the
bars and tavernas, with a disco Πεταλούδες cave mouth, then a dramatic
nearby and occasional local 70 m (230 ft) descent into the
activities and entertainments. 6 km (4 miles) SW of Paroikía. @ cavern. Lord Byron and other
Open Jun–20 Sep: daily. & visitors have carved their names
on the walls. In 1673 the French
Petaloúdes, or the Valley of the ambassador, the Marquis de
Butterflies, on the slopes of Nointel, held a Christmas Mass
Psychopianá, is easily reached here for 500 friends. The church
from Paroikiá. This lush green outside, Agios Ioánnis Spiliótis,
oasis is home to swarms was built in 1774.
of Jersey tiger moths,
from May to August,
which flutter from the
foliage when disturbed.
There are mule treks
along the donkey paths
The beautiful and fashionable beach that cross the valley.
at Poúnta About 2 km (1 mile)
north of Petaloúdes,
Environs the 18th-century
Mólos, 6 km (4 miles) north, has convent of Moní
a long sandy beach with dunes, Christoú tou Dásous,
tavernas and a windsurfing Christ of the Woods,
centre. Just to the south lies is worth the walk,
Poúnta (not to be confused although women
with the village of Poúnta on only are allowed into
the west coast), one of the the sanctuary. Páros’s
best and most fashionable second patron saint,
beaches in the Cyclades with Agios Arsénios,
a trendy laid-back beach bar. teacher and abbot,
The island’s most famous is also buried here. Bougainvillea on a house in Antíparos town
240 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Náxos
Νάξος
The largest of the Cyclades, Náxos was first settled in 3000 BC.
A major centre of the Cycladic civilization (see pp38–9), it
was one of the first islands to use marble. Náxos fell to the
Venetians in 1207, and the numerous fortified towers (pýrgoi)
were built, still evident across the island today. Its landscape Mosaic from the Archaeological Museum
is rich with citrus orchards and olive groves, and it is famous in Náxos town
in myth as the place where Theseus abandoned the Cretan
The building now houses the
princess Ariadne. Archaeological Museum, with
one of the best collections of
Mitrópoli Zoödóchou Pigís, Cycladic marble figurines (see
has an icon-ostasis, painted by p221) in the Greek islands, and
Dimítrios Válvis of the Cretan some beautiful Roman mosaics.
School in 1786.
Uphill lies the imposing medi- E Archaeological Museum
eval north gate of the fortified Palace of Sanoúdo. Tel 22850 22725.
Kástro, built in 1207 by Marco Open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Sanudo. Only two of the original Closed main public holidays. &
seven gate-towers remain. Little
is left of the 13th-century outer Environs
walls, but the inner walls still The remains of the Temple of
stand, protecting 19 impressive Dionýsos can be found in Iria,
houses. These bear the coats near Glinado, around 5 km
of arms of the Venetian nobles (3 miles) from Náxos town.
who lived there. Their remains A causeway leads to the Grótta
are housed in the 13th-century area, north of the town, named
Catholic cathedral, in after its numerous sea caves. To
The Portára gateway from the unfinished the Kástro, beneath the south the lagoon-like
Temple of Apollo marble slabs dating bay of Agios Geórgios is
back to 1619. Many the main holiday resort,
1 Náxos Town of the present-day with golden sands and
Χώρα residents are shallow water. The best
descended from beaches are out of town
* 15,000. g @ Harbourfront
these families. Angel from the along the west coast.
n Harbourfront (22853 60100).
During the Turkish Roman Catholic Agía Anna is a pleasant
North of the port and reached occupation, Náxos was cathedral small resort with silver
by a causeway is the huge famous for its schools. sands and water sports.
marble Portára gateway on the The magnificent Palace of For more solitude, head south
islet of Palátia, which dominates Sanoúdo, dating from 1627, 3 km (2 miles) over the dunes to
the harbour of Náxos town, which incorporates part of the Pláka (see p17), the best beach
or Chóra. Built in 522 BC, it Venetian fortifications, housed on the island. Further south the
was to be the entrance to the the French school. The most pure white sands of Mikrí Vígla,
unfinished Temple of Apollo. famous pupil was Cretan novelist and Kastráki, named after a
The town is made up of four Níkos Kazantzákis (see p286), ruined Mycenaean fortress, are
distinct areas. The harbour who wrote Zorba the Greek. good for water sports.
bustles with its cafés and
fishermen at work. To the south
is Neá Chóra, or Agios Geórgios,
a concrete mass of hotels,
apartments and restaurants.
Above the harbour, the old town
divides into the Venetian kástro,
once home of the Catholic
nobility, and the medieval
Bourg, where the Greeks lived.
The twisting alleys of the
Bourg market area are lined
with restaurants and gift shops.
The Orthodox cathedral in the
Bourg, the fine 18th-century The remote and beautiful Pláka beach south of Náxos town
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
NAXOS 241
3 Tragaía Valley
Κοιλάδα Τραγαίας
15 km (9 miles) SE of Náxos town. @
From Ano Sagrí the road twists
to the Tragaía valley. The first
village in the valley, Chalkí, is
the most picturesque with its
Venetian architecture and the
Moní village in the Tragaía valley, surrounded by olive groves old Byzantine Fragópoulos
tower in its centre.
2 Mélanes Valley open to visitors. The other, 5.5 m From Chalkí a road leads up
Κοιλάδα Μελάνων (18 ft) long, lies in a nearby field. to Moní, home of the most
unusual church on Náxos,
10 km (6 miles) S of Náxos town. Environs Panagía Drosianí. Dating from
@ to Kinídaros.
Southeast of Náxos town is the 6th century, its domes
Glinádo, home to the Venetian are made from field stones.
The road south of Náxos town Bellonias tower, first of the Filóti is a traditional village
passes through the Livádi valley, fortified mansions on Náxos. and is the largest in the
the heart of ancient marble The chapel of Agios Ioánnis region. It sits on the slopes of
country, to the Mélanes villages. Gýroulas in Ano Sagrí, south Mount Zas, which, at 1,000 m
In Kournochóri, the first village, of Glinádo, is built over the (3,300 ft), is the highest in
is the Venetian Della Rocca ruins of a temple of Demeter. the Cyclades.
tower. At Mýloi, near the ancient
marble quarry at Flerió, lie two
6th-century-BC koúroi, huge Pátmos
Páros
marble statues. One, 8 m (26 ft) Sýros Ikaría
Kos Agiá
long, lies in a private garden, Santoríni
Amorgós
Donoússa Ormos
Irakleion, Apóllon
Ios Abrám
Sights at a Glance Náxos Town Moní
Myrsíni
Agios Geórgios Galíni Faneroménis
1 Náxos Town Komiakí
Agía
2 Mélanes Valley Anna Mélanes Valley
Kournochóri
3 Tragaía Valley Kinídaros
Kóronos
4 Apeíranthos Glinádo Mýloi
5 Komiakí Moní
Pláka
6 Apóllon
Mikrí Vígla Chalkí
Apeíranthos
Ano
Sagrí Filóti
Moutsoúna
Kastráki Tragaía Valley
NAXOS
J
Mount Zas
1,000 m (3,300 ft)
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
6 Apóllon
Απόλλων
49 km (30 miles) NE of Náxos town.
* 100. @
E Archaeological Museum
Off main road. Tel 22850 61725.
Open May–Sep: 8am–3pm Tue–Sun;
Oct–Apr: 8am–3pm Tue, Thu, Fri &
Sun. Closed main public hols. 7
E Geological Museum
Village school. Tel 22850 61724.
Open daily. Closed main public
hols. & The harbour at Moutsoúna, Náxos
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
THE CYCLADES 243
Síkinos
Σίκινος
* 300. g Aloprónoia. @ Síkinos
town. n Kástro, Síkinos town (22860
51228). L Agios Geórgios 7 km
(3 miles) NE of Síkinos town.
∑ sikinos.gr
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 4,500. n Harbourfront,
Adámas (22870 22445).
_ Nautical week: end Jun–
beg Jul; Panagía at Zefyría: 15 Aug.
Transport
k 7 km (4 miles) SE of Adámas.
g Adámas. @ Adámas.
The twin rocks, known as The Bears, on the approach to Adámas Geology of Mílos
Due to its volcanic origins,
relics and a Christian baptismal halves were bought as a gift for Mílos is rich in minerals and
font from a Byzantine basilica. Louis XVIII, on 1 March 1821. The has some spectacular rock
A Roman amphitheatre nearby statue is now on show in the formations. Boat tours from
is still used for performances. Louvre, Paris. The missing arms Adámas go to the eerie
are thought to have been lost in pumice moonscape of
E Archaeological Museum the struggle for possession. Sarakíniko, formed two to
Main square. Tel 22870 28026. three million years ago, the
Open 8am–4pm Tue–Sun. T Christian Catacombs lava formations known as
Closed 1 May. & Trypití, 2 km (1 mile) SE of Pláka. the “organ-pipes” of Glaronísia
(offshore near Philakopí), and
E History and Folk Museum Tel 22870 21625. Open 8:30am–
the sulphurous blue water at
Pláka. Tel 22870 21292. Open Jun– 6:30pm Tue–Sun (to 3pm Sun).
Papáfragkas. Geothermal
Sep: 10am–1pm & 7–10pm Tue–Sun.
action has provided a wealth
Closed main public hols. 7 & Around the Island of hot springs; in some areas,
The rugged island is scattered such as off the Mávra Gkrémna
with volcanic relics and long cliffs, the sea can reach 100° C
stretches of beach. The vast Bay (212° F) only 30 cm (12 inches)
of Mílos, the site of the volcano’s below the surface.
central vent, is one of the
finest natural harbours in the
Mediterranean, and has some
of Mílos’s best sights.
West of Adámas, the small and
sandy Langáda beach is popular
Inside the Christian Catacombs with families. On the way to the
beach are the municipal baths
Environs with their warm mineral waters.
In the nearby town of Trypití are South of Adámas, the Bay
well-preserved 1st-century-AD of Mílos has a succession of Mineral mine at Voúdia, still
Christian Catacombs. Carved attractive beaches, including in operation
into the hillside, the massive Chivadolímni, backed by a
complex of galleries has tombs turquoise saltwater lake. On the
in arched niches, each one south coast is the lovely beach
containing up to seven bodies. of Agía Kyriakí, near the village
The catacomb network is 184 m of Provatás.
(605 ft) long, with 291 tombs. Situated on the northeast tip of
Archaeologists believe that as the island is Apollonía, a popular
many as 8,000 bodies were resort with a tree-fringed beach.
interred here. Taxi boats leave here for the The white pumice landscape
From the catacombs, a track island of Kímolos, named after at Sarakíniko
leads to the place where the the chalk (kimolía) mined there.
Venus de Milo was discovered, Once an important centre of
now marked by a plaque. It was civilization, little remains now
found on 8 April 1820, by a of Ancient Phylakopi, just
farmer, Geórgios Kentrótas. He southwest of Apollonía. You can
uncovered a cave in the corner make out the old Mycenaean
of his field with half of the city walls, ruined houses and
ancient marble statue inside. grave sites, but a large part of The sulphurous blue water
The other half was found by a the city has been submerged at Papáfragkas
visiting French officer and both beneath the sea.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
248 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Santoríni
Σαντορίνη
Colonized by the Minoans in 3000 BC, this volcanic island
erupted in 1450 BC, forming Santoríni’s crescent shape.
The island is widely believed to be a candidate for the lost
kingdom of Atlantis. Named Thíra by the Dorians when they
settled here in the 8th century BC, it was renamed Santoríni,
after St Irene, by the Venetians who conquered the island
in the 13th century. Despite tourism, Santoríni remains a
stunning island with its white villages clinging to volcanic
One of the many cliffside bars in Firá, with
cliffs above black sand beaches. views over the caldera
Sights at a Glance
1 Firá Imerovígli Kanakári
J
2 Oía Thirasía
3 Ancient Thíra
Fira
J
4 Akrotíri
Skála Firón
0 kilometres Monólithos
5 Néa
Folégandros, Kameni
0 miles 3 Crete
Palaiá
Kaméni
SANTORINI
Athiniós
Kamári
Aspro Nisi
Ancient
Moní Profítou Ilía Thíra
Emporeió
Akrotíri Mount Profítis
565 m (1,855 ft) Períssa
Kókkini Ammos Almyrá
Perivólos
Vlycháda
1
Despite the 1956 earthquake Santoríni was a
you can still see vestiges of Firá’s circular volcanic island
architectural glory from the before the massive eruption
17th and 18th centuries, on that blew out its middle.
Nomikoú and Erythroú Stavroú
where several mansions have The volcano was active for
been restored. centuries, building up to the
1450 BC explosion.
The pretty ochre chapel of
Agios Stylianós, clinging to the
edge of the cliff, is worth a visit Clouds containing molten rock
on the way to the Frangika, or spread over 30 km (19 miles).
Crater of 22 sq km
Frankish quarter, with its maze
(8.5 sq miles)
of arcaded streets. To the south,
the Orthodox cathedral is
dedicated to the Ypapantí (the
2 The eruption left a huge
crater, or caldera. The
rush of water into the void
Presentation of Christ in the created a tidal wave, or
Temple). Built in 1827, it is an tsunami, which devastated
imposing ochre building with the Minoan civilization.
Thirasía
3 The islands of Néa
Kaméni and Palaiá
Kaméni, visible today,
emerged after more
recent volcanic
activity in 197 BC and
1707. They are still
A donkey ride up the steps from Skála volcanically active. Aspro Nisí Palaiá Kaméni
Firón to Firá
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
250 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
was an important and wealthy Ancient Thíra, situated at the end of the
commercial centre before it Mésa Vounó peninsula
was badly damaged in the
1956 earthquake. 3 Ancient Thíra
Today Oía is designated a Αρχαία Θήρα
traditional settlement, having
11 km (7 miles) SW of Firá. @ to
been carefully reconstructed Kamári. Open 8:30am–2:30pm
after the earthquake. Its white Tue–Sun. Closed main public hols.
A blue and ochre painted housefront and pastel-coloured houses with L Períssa 200 m (600 ft) below.
in Oía red pebble walls cling to the
cliff face with the famous skaftá Commanding the rocky head-
2 Oía cave houses and blue-domed land of Mésa Vounó, 370 m
Οία churches. Some of the Neo- (1,215 ft) up on the southeast
Classical mansions built by coast, the ruins of the
11 km (7 miles) NW of Firá.
* 400. @ shipowners can still be seen. Dorian town of Ancient
A marble-paved pathway skirts Thíra are still visible.
At the northern tip of the island, the edge of the caldera to Firá. Recolonized after
the beautiful town of Oía is Staircases lead down the great eruption
famous for its spectacular to Arméni and the (see p249), the ruins
sunsets. A popular island nearby fishing stand on terraces
excursion is to have dinner in harbour at Ammoúdi overlooking the sea.
one of the many restaurants with its floating pumice Rock carving in Excavated by the
at the edge of the abyss as the stones and red pebble Ancient Thíra German archaeologist
sun sinks behind the caldera. beach. The tradition of Hiller von Gortringen
According to legend, the boatbuilding continues at in the 1860s, most of the ruins
atmospheric town is haunted Arméni’s small ferry dock at the date from the Ptolemies, who
and home to vampires. base of the cliff, although the built temples to the Egyptian
Reached by one of the most port is now mainly used by gods in the 4th and 3rd
tortuous roads in the Cyclades, tourist boats departing daily centuries BC. There are also
Oía is the island’s third port and for the small island of Thirasía. Hellenistic and Roman remains.
The 7th-century Santoríni vases
that were discovered here are
now housed in Firá’s Archaeo-
logical Museum (see p249).
A path through the site
passes an early Christian basilica,
remains of private houses, some
with mosaics, the agora (or
market) and a theatre, with a
sheer view down to the sea.
On the far west is a 3rd-century-
BC sanctuary cut into the rock,
founded by Artemídoros of
Perge, an admiral of the
Ptolemaic fleet. It features
relief carvings of an eagle,
a lion, a dolphin and a phallus
symbolizing the gods Zeus,
Apollo, Poseidon and Priapus.
To the east, on the Terrace
Ammoúdi fishing village overlooked by Oía on the clifftop above of Celebrations, you can find
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp316–17 and pp334–7
SANTORINI 251
CRETE
Chaniá • Réthymno • Irákleio • Lasíthi
For nearly 3,000 years the ruins of an 65 BC. Byzantine rule was followed by the
ancient Minoan civilization lay buried Venetians (1204–1669), whose formidable
and forgotten beneath the coastal fortresses, such as Frangokástello, and
plains of Crete. It was not until the early elegant buildings in cities, such as
20th century that the remains of great Réthymno and Chaniá, testify to 400
Minoan palaces at Knosós, Phaestos, years of foreign rule. Oppression and
Mália and Zákros were unearthed. Their religious persecution by the Ottoman
magnificence demonstrates the level of Turks (1669–1898) encouraged a strong
sophistication and artistic imagination of independence movement. By 1913, led
the Minoan civilization, now considered by Elefthérios Venizélos (1864–1936),
the well-spring of European culture. Crete had become a province of Greece.
Historically, the island and its people The island was again occupied by German
have endured occupation by foreign forces during World War II, despite
powers and the hardships of religious valiant resistance.
persecution. The Romans brought their Today, mountains, sparkling seas and
administrative expertise to the island, and ancient history combine with the Cretans’
the ancient city-state of Górtys became relaxed nature to make the island an
capital of the Roman province of Crete in idyllic holiday destination.
The picturesque town of Agios Nikólaos along the shores of Mirabéllou Bay
The Akrotíri
peninsula offers
sightings of
chameleons.
The Samariá Gorge (see pp264–5)
has been carved out by winter
torrents washing down from the
Omalós Plateau. Visitors should
Chaniá look out for peonies, cyclamens
York City and Cretan ebony, as well for wild
goats, called kri-kri, whose sure-
O malós Plate au footed confidence enables
them to scale the precipitous
slopes and cliffs.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
Kourtaliótiko gorge
is a good spot to
Moní Préveli
Mount Ida
look for clumps of 2,456 m
8,080 ft
Jerusalem sage.
The Omalós
Plateau is home to Agía Galíni
the lammergeier, one of
Europe’s largest birds of prey. With
narrow wings and distinctive wedge-
shaped tail, it can be seen soaring over
mountains and ravines.
•
Agía
Triáda
Agía Triáda’s
wetlands are the
The Gulf of Mesará has a haunt of black-
rough, grassy shoreline that winged stilts.
is home to butterflies like
the swallowtail.
Moní Préveli (see p270) is visited by the Agía Galíni (see p273) is an excellent spot
migrant Ruppell’s warbler between May for spring flowers, and in particular the
and August. With his bold black and striking giant orchid. It stands more than
white head markings and beady red 60 cm (24 inches) tall and can bloom as
eyes, the male is a striking bird. early as February or early March.
CRETE 257
The colourful yellow The catchfly with its Cretan ebony, endemic Honeyguide Wildlife
bee orchid sticky stems to Crete Holidays
36 Thunder Lane, Thorpe St Andrew,
Wild Flowers on Crete Norwich NR7 0PX.
Tel 01603 300552.
Botanists visit Crete in their thousands each year to enjoy the
∑ honeyguide.co.uk
spectacular display of wild flowers. They are at their best, and in
greatest profusion, from February to April. By late May, with the Naturetrek
sun higher in the sky, many have withered and turned brown. Mingledown Barn, Wolf’s Lane,
Most of those that undergo this transformation survive the Hampshire GU34 3HJ.
summer as underground bulbs or tubers. Tel 01962 733051.
∑ naturetrek.co.uk
Pure Crete
Mália (see p287) is one of the Bolney Place, Cowfold Road,
many coastal resorts on Crete Haywards Heath, RH17 5QT.
that provide a temporary home Tel 01444 880404.
for migrant waders in spring and ∑ purecrete.com
autumn. This wood sandpiper
will stay and feed for a day or
so around the margins of pools
and marshes.
Eloúnta has
saltpans that are
much favoured
by avocets.
Mália
Siteía’s precipitous cliffs (see p290)
are the habitat for Cretan ebony, a
shrub unique to the island, which
produces pinkish-purple spikes of
flowers in the spring.
Siteía
Exploring Crete
The most southerly of the Greek islands, Crete boasts
clear blue seas, sandy beaches and glorious sunshine.
Its north coast bustles with thriving resorts as well as
historic towns such as Réthymno and Chaniá. Its
rugged southern coast, in particular the southwest,
is less developed. Four great mountain ranges stretch
from east to west, forming the spine of the 250 km-
(155 mile-) long island. A hiker’s paradise, they offer
magnificent scenery and some spectacular gorges.
The island’s capital, Irákleio, is famous for its Archae-
ological Museum and is also a good base for exploring
the greatest of Crete’s Minoan palaces, Knosós.
Kýthira
Card players in the vine-canopied streets of
Rod
opou
m vo ú s a
Gávdos
Getting Around
The provincial capitals of Chaniá,
Réthymno, Irákleio and Agios
Nikólaos act as the main transport
hub for each region. Crete’s bus
service is quite well developed,
with regular buses running along
the north coast road. For touring
the island a car is the most
convenient mode of transport,
though taxi fares are reasonable.
Mountain roads between villages
are now largely paved. Large domed mosque inside Réthymno’s Venetian Fortétsa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 259
Dia Kárpathos,
Kárpathos Kásos
Fodele
Kato Mílos
Gouves CHERSONISOS
Dragonada
IRAKLEIO Sísi
Agios Georgios
KNOSOS Spinalónga
Týlissos MALIA Itanos
Agna ELOUNTA VAI
Myrtiá Sel BEACH
ARCHANES ena
Oros
Tzermiádo AGIOS SITEIA MONI Palaíkastro
Lató Móchlos
LASITHI NIKOLAOS TOPLOU Agkathias
Diktian PLATEAU KRITSA Hamezi
Cave
Várvari Psari Madara
O 2148m Hrisopigi
Tefelion ro Voila
s GOURNIA ZAKROS
GORTYS Marta D í k t i
Agioi Déka Koútsouras
Protoria
Akhendrias Prasonision
O ros Mirtos
inas Nea Arvi IERAPETRA
Ko f Paranimfi Sidonia
Koufoníssi
Alikapunta
Chrysí
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
Key
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Track
High-season, direct ferry route
Summit
A pelican in the picturesque harbour at Siteía
For keys to symbols see back flap
260 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
The magnificent beach of Falásarna with its long stretch of sand and turquoise waters
Environs
Some 7 km (4 miles) south of
Kastélli, the ruins of the ancient
city of Polyrínia are scattered
above the village of Ano
Palaiókastro (also known as
Polyrínia). Dating from the
6th century BC, the fortified
city-state was developed
by the Romans and later the
Byzantines and Venetians.
The present church of
Enenínta ennéa Martýron
(Ninety-Nine Martyrs), built in
1894, stands on the site of a
large Hellenistic building. Moní Chrysoskalítissas near Palaióchora
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 261
4 Chaniá
The Battle of Crete (1941)
See pp262–3.
Following the occupation of Greece in World War II, German
forces invaded Crete. Thousands of German troops were para
chuted into the Chaniá district, 5 Akrotíri
where they seized Máleme Airport Peninsula
on 20 May 1941. The Battle of Crete Χερσόνησος Ακρωτηρίου
raged fiercely for ten days, with high
casualties on both sides. Allied 6 km (4 miles) NW of Chaniá.
g Soúda. @ Chaniá & Soúda.
troops retreated through the Lefká
L Stavrós 14 km (9 miles) N of Chaniá.
Ori (White Mountains) to the south
Maráthi 10 km (6 miles) E of Chaniá.
where, with the help of locals, they
were evacuated from the island. Flat by Cretan standards,
Four years of German occupation the Akrotíri Peninsula lies be
followed, during which time tween Réthymno (see pp268–9)
implacable local resistance kept up and Chaniá (see pp262–3). At its
German parachutists in the pressure on the invaders, until base, on top of Profítis Ilías hill,
Crete, 1941 their final surrender in 1945. is a shrine to Crete’s national
hero, Elefthérios Venizélos
(see p53). His tomb is a place
of these is Anýdri, 5 km rent, and a few tavernas and of pilgrimage, for it was here
(3 miles) east of Palaióchora, bars. The beach is long and that Cretan rebels raised the
with the 14thcentury double pebbly. It is overlooked by the Greek flag in 1897 in defiance
naved church of Agios Geórgios village church which is built on of the Great Powers.
containing frescoes by Ioánnis top of a Byzantine structure, There are several monasteries
Pagoménos (John the Frozen) whose mosaic floors have been in the northeastern hills of
from 1323. largely removed. the peninsula. Moní Agías
In summer, a daily boat Triádas, which has an
service runs to Elafonísi Environs impressive multidomed church,
(see p16), a lagoonlike Just over an hour’s is 17th century, while Moní
beach of golden sand walk west of Soúgia, Gouvernétou dates back to
and brilliant blue water. the ancient citystate the early Venetian occupation.
From here, a 5 km of Lissós was a flour Monks still inhabit both.
(3 mile) walk north ishing commercial Nearby, but accessible only
takes you to Moní centre in Hellenistic on foot, the abandoned Moní
Chrysoskalítissas and Roman times. Katholikoú, is partly carved
(Golden Step), named Among the remains out of the rock. Situated at
for the 90 steps leading Fresco by Ioánnis are two fine 13th the neck of the peninsula
up to its church, one of Pagoménos, Agios century Christian is a military base and the
which is said to appear Geórgios basilicas, a 3rdcentury Commonwealth War Cemetery,
golden, at least in the BC Asklepieion (temple burial ground of over 1,500
eyes of the virtuous. It can also of healing) and a sanctuary. The British, Australian and New
be reached by road 28 km route to Lissós leads up through Zealand soldiers killed in the
(17 miles) south of Kastélli the Agía Eiríni Gorge. Popular Battle of Crete.
Kissámou. From Palaióchora, with experienced hikers, the
boat trips make the rough, gorge’s path has been Z Commonwealth War
64 km (40 mile) crossing improved, and plans are under Cemetery
(Mondays and Thursdays only) way to develop the area along 4 km (2 miles) SE of Chaniá
to Gávdos island, Europe’s the lines of the Samariá Gorge. Open daily.
southernmost point.
3 Soúgia
Σούγια
Chaniá. * 270. g @ L Soúgia;
Lissós 3 km (2 miles) W.
4 Chaniá
Xανιά
Set against a spectacular backdrop of majestic mountains
and aquamarine seas, Chaniá is one of the island’s most
appealing cities and a good base from which to explore
western Crete. Its stately Neo-Classical mansions and
massive Venetian fortifications testify to the city’s turbulent
and diverse past. Once the Minoan settlement of ancient
Kydonia, Chaniá has been fought over and controlled
by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Genoese, Turks and
Egyptians. Following unification with Greece in 1913, the
island saw yet another invasion during World War II – this The Mosque of the Janissaries
time by the German army in 1941, when the Battle of
Crete raged around Chaniá (see p261). along Líthinon, a street lined with
ornate Venetian doorways. Many
of the finds from the site are on
display in Chaniá’s Archaeological
Museum, including a collection
of clay tablets inscribed with
Minoan Linear A script.
By the inner harbour stand
the now derelict 16th-century
Venetian arsenals, where ships
were once stored and repaired.
The Venetian lighthouse, at the
end of the seawall, offers superb
views over Chaniá.
The Venetian Fort Firkás overlooking Chaniá’s outer harbour E Naval Museum
Fort Firkás, Aktí Kountourióti. Tel 28210
The Harbour On the other side of the outer 91875. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm
Most of the city’s interesting harbour, the Mosque of the Mon–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun; Nov–Apr:
sights are to be found in the old Janissaries dates back to the 9am–3:30pm Mon–Sat. Closed main
Venetian quarter, around the arrival of the Turks in 1645 and public hols. & ∑ mar-mus-crete.gr
harbour and surrounding is the island’s oldest Ottoman
alleyways. At the northwest building. It was damaged in Around the Covered Market
point of the outer harbour, the World War II and rebuilt soon Connected to the harbour by
Naval Museum’s collection of after. Behind the mosque rises Chálidon, this turn-of-the-
model ships and other maritime the hilltop quarter of Kastélli, the century covered market sells
artifacts is displayed in the well- oldest part of the city, where the local fruit and vegetables and
restored Venetian Fort Firkás – Minoan settlement of Kydonia is Cretan souvenirs. Alongside the
also the setting for theatre and being excavated. The site, closed market, the bustling Skŕydlot, or
evenings of traditional dance to the public but clearly visible Stivanádika, has shops selling
in summer. from the road, is approached leather goods, including
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Chaniá. * 50,000. n Kriári 40
(28210 92943, or 28210 92000).
( Mon–Thu, Sat. _ Nautical
Week (end June). L Agía
Marína 9 km (6 miles) W;
Plataniás 11 km (7 miles) W.
∑ chania.eu
Transport
k 16 km (10 miles) E of Chaniá.
g Soúda bay. @ Kydonías (long
distance), Plateía Agorás (Chaniá).
6 Samariá Gorge
Φαράγγι της Σαμαριάς
The most spectacular landscape in Crete lies along
the Samariá Gorge, the longest ravine in Europe.
When the gorge was established as a national park
in 1962, the inhabitants of pastoral Samariá village
moved elsewhere, leaving behind the tiny chapels
seen today. Starting from the Xylóskalo, 44 km
(27 miles) south of Chaniá, a well-trodden trail leads
down a tortuous 18 km (11 mile) course to the
seaside village of Agía Rouméli. The walk takes
from 5 to 7 hours. Water fountains can be found Facing east across the spectacular Samariá Gorge
en route and sturdy shoes should be worn.
Omalós Plateau
KEY
1 Agios Geórgios
2 Osía María, a tiny church
standing at the foot of a steep cliff,
contains frescoes dating to the
14th century
3 Agios Christós
4 Metamórphosis
5 Agía Paraskeví
Agios Nikólaos
6 Agios Geórgios This tiny chapel nestles under the
7 Agía Rouméli (Old Village) shade of pines and cypresses near
the bottom of the Xylóskalo.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 265
. Samariá Village
Once inhabited, the
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
village was abandoned
Practical Information
in 1962, when the gorge
44 km (27 miles) S of Chaniá.
was designated as
n 28210 36155.
a national park.
∑ sfakia-crete.com
Gorge: Open May–Oct: 7am–4pm
daily (early May–end Oct if
weather permits). ∑ west-crete.
com/samaria-gorge
Transport
@ to Xylóskalo. g Agía
Rouméli to Sfakíá (via Loutró); to
Palaiochóra (via Soúgia); last boat
back varies, check before travel.
J
Key
Asphalt road
Park boundary
Path
7 Réthymno
Ρέθυμνο
Once the Greco-Roman town of Rithymna, the site of today’s
Réthymno has been occupied since Minoan times. The city
flourished under Venetian rule during the 16th century,
developing into a literary and artistic centre, and becoming
a haven for scholars fleeing Constantinople. Despite modern
development and tourism, the city today has retained much
of its charm and remains the intellectual capital of Crete.
The old quarter is rich in elegant, well-preserved Venetian
and Ottoman architecture. The huge Venetian Fortétsa, built
in the 16th century to defend the island against the
increasing attacks by pirates, overlooks the picturesque The impressive 17th-century
harbour with its charming 13th-century lighthouse. Nerantzés Mosque
Tavernas and bars along Réthymno’s waterfront, the focus of the town’s activity
The old harbour of Réthymno, with its Venetian and Ottoman buildings
CRETE 269
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Réthymno. * 24,000.
n Kountourioti 80 (28210
92000). ( Thu, in car park close
to Municipal Gardens. _ Wine
Festival: midJul; Renaissance
festival: mid–end Jul.
Transport
g off Plateía Karaolí.
@ Kefalogiánnidon.
Environs
East of Réthymno, towards The magnificent shell of Frangokástello set against a dramatic backdrop
Pánormos, the resort develop
ments flow one into another, as Chóra Sfakíon) enjoys a “real” Greek village. In summer
while west of the city a 20 km commanding position as the last a dozen tavernas and houses
(12 mile) stretch of relatively coastal community of any size provide rooms and meals for
uncrowded beach culminates until Palaióchora (see pp260–61). tourists. Small boats are available
in the village of Georgioúpoli. Cut off from the outside world to take tourists to nearby Gávdos
Despite wholesale tourist until recently, it is little wonder island and the breathtaking bay
development, this small that historically the local Sfakiot around Sweetwater beach.
community still retains some clansmen enjoy their reputation
of its traditional atmosphere. for rugged selfsufficiency and
Massive eucalyptus trees line individualism, albeit accom 9 Frangokástello
the streets and a picturesque, panied by the notorious feuding. Φραγκοκάστελλο
turtleinhabited river flows The village today is largely
14 km (9 miles) E of Sfakiá, Chaniá. @
placidly down to the sea. Lake devoted to tourism and makes
Open daily. 7
Kournás, 5 km (3 miles) inland a good steppingoff point for
from Georgioúpoli, is set in a the southwest coast. Built by the Venetians as a
hollow among the steeply rising bulwark against pirates and
hills. Pedalos, sailboards and Environs unruly Sfakiots in 1371, little
canoes can be hired at the lake West of Sfakiá, almost remains of the interior of
and a few shady tavernas impregnable mountains Frangokástello. However, its
offer refreshments. plummet into the Libyan Sea, curtain walls are well preserved
In Arménoi, on the main allowing space for just a couple and, from above the south
Réthymno–Agía Galíni road, of tiny settlements accessible entrance, the Venetian Lion
there is an extensive late Minoan only by boat or on foot along the of St Mark looks out to sea.
cemetery where a large number E4 coastal path. The closest of Ioánnis Daskalogiánnis, the
of graves have been excavated, these is Loutró, a charming and Sfakiot leader, surrendered here
some with imposingly long remote spot whose sheltered in 1770 and was flayed alive in
entrances. Among the contents cove, curving beach and little Irákleio by his Turkish captors.
unearthed are bronze weapons, white houses with blue shutters Fifty years later Chatzimichális
vases and burial caskets fulfil every traveller’s fantasy of a Daliánis, a Greek freedom
(larnakes), now on view in the fighter, wrested the fort from
archaeological museums of the Turks and tried to hold it
Chaniá (see p263) and Réthymno. with an army of just 385 men.
Hopelessly outnumbered, he
Z Minoan Cemetery and all his followers were
9 km (6 miles) S of Réthymno. massacred by the pitiless Turks.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed main Legend has it that at the end
public hols. 7 of May at dawn, their solemn
shadows can be seen climbing
up to the castle.
8 Sfakiá Directly below the fortress
Σφαkιά is a sandy beach whose waters
are shallow and warm, an
Chaniá. * 400. @ L Sweetwater
ideal spot for families with
3 km (2 miles) W of Loutró.
young children. A scattering
Overlooking the Libyan Sea at of hotels and tavernas cater
the mouth of the breathtaking The quiet bay and whitewashed houses for holidaymakers and
Impros Gorge, Sfakiá (also known of Loutró passing motorists.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
270 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Vrýses
Fourfourás
6 Kardáki
The 13th-century ruined church
Pl
a t´
r Mount Idi
Ψηλορείτης Cretan Caves and the Myth of Zeus
Réthymno. @ to Anógeia & Kamáres. The island of Crete is home to 4,700 caves and potholes of which
some 2,000 have been explored. Since Neolithic times, caves have
At 2,456 m (8,080 ft) the soaring been used as cult centres by successive religions and have yielded
peaks of Mount Idi (or Psiloreítis) many archaeological treasures. Bound up with ancient Cretan
are the crowning glory of the mythology, the Diktian (see p287)
massive Psiloreítis range. The and Idaian caves are two of the
highest mountain in Crete, it island’s most visited. According
is home to many sanctuaries to legend, Rhea gave birth to
including the famous the infant god Zeus in the
Idaian Cave. Diktian Cave, where he was
From Anógeia, a paved road protected by kourítes (warriors)
leads to the Nída Plateau, a and nurtured by a goat. He was
journey of 23 km (14 miles) then concealed and raised in
through rocky terrain, punc the Idaian Cave to protect him
tuated by the occasional stone from his father, Kronos, who had
shepherd’s hut. Here a lone swallowed his other offspring
taverna caters to visitors en route after a warning that he would
to the Idaian Cave, a further be dethroned by one of his
20minute hike up the hill. This sons. The Idaian Cave was an
huge cavern, where Zeus was Stalagmites in the Diktian Cave important pilgrimage centre
reared, has yielded artifacts, (see p287), Lasíthi during Classical times.
including some remarkable
bronze shields, dating from c.700
BC. Some of the artifacts can be t Anógeia statue of a Cretan hero in
seen in the Irákleio Archaeo Ανώγεια traditional dress. Inscribed on
logical Museum (see pp280–81). the memorial are the most
Réthymno. * 2,300. @
From the plateau, marked trails significant dates in Crete’s recent
lead up to the peak of Mount Idi. High up in the Psiloreítis past: 1821, Greek Independence;
The summit trek to the chapel mountain range, the small 1866, slaughter of Christian
of Timios Stavros is, approxi village of Anógeia dates back refugees at Moní Arkadíou
mately, an 8hour round trip. to the 13th century. The village (see p270); 1944, liberation from
On the mountain’s southern has suffered a turbulent past, German occupation. Tavernas,
face, a 3hour scramble from having been destroyed by the shops and banks are also
Kamáres village leads to the Turks in 1821 and 1826, and situated in this part of town.
Kamáres Cave. Here the famous then completely rebuilt after The old village tumbles down
Minoan pottery known as destruction by the German the steep slopes into a warren
Kamáres ware was discovered army in 1944. of narrow stepped alleys,
and examples are now on Modern Anógeia runs along a ultimately converging on a little
display in the Irákleio rocky ridge, with its own square square of stalls and tavernas.
Archaeological Museum. and war memorial – a bronze Here, a marble bust of local
The Nída Plateau between Anógeia village and the Idaian Cave, Mount Idi
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 273
Environs
Taxi boat trips sail daily from
Agía Galíni’s harbour to the
neighbouring beaches of Agios
Geórgios and Agios Pávlos and,
further still, to Préveli beach at Agía Galíni resort, nestled into the rocks at the foot of the Amári Valley
274 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
o Phaestos
See pp276–7.
p Górtys
Γόρτυς
Irákleio. Tel 28920 31144. @
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm daily.
Closed main public hols. & 7
The ruins of the praetorium, the once-grand palace complex of the governor of the province, Górtys
276 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
o Phaestos
Το Ανάκτορο της Φαιστού
Spectacularly situated on a ridge overlooking the fertile Messará
Plain, Phaestos was one of the most important Minoan palaces in
Crete. Excavations by the Italian archaeologist Frederico Halbherr, in
1900, unearthed two palaces. Remains of the first palace, constructed
around 1900 BC and destroyed by an earthquake in 1700 BC, are still
visible. However, most of the present ruins are of the second palace,
which was severely damaged around 1450 BC, possibly by a tidal
wave. The city-state was finally destroyed by Górtys (see pp274–5) in
the 2nd century BC. Today, the superimposed ruins of both palaces
The Messará Plain as seen from the
make interpretation of the site difficult. north court
KEY
4 North court
8 Workshops
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Central Court
This paved courtyard
with views over the
Psiloreítis range was
formerly flanked
on two sides by
covered walk-
ways. Its once
grand north
façade has a
central doorway
and recesses
thought to be
sentry boxes.
Royal apartments
Grand staircase
a Irákleio El Greco
Ηράκλειο Domínikos Theotokópoulos
A settlement since the Neolithic era, Irákleio served as the (alias El Greco) was born in
port for Knosós in Roman times. Under Venetian rule in the Crete in 1545. His art was
rooted in the Cretan School
13th century, it became known as Candia, the capital of the of Painting, an influence that
Aegean territories. Today the sprawl of traffic-jammed streets permeates his highly
and concrete apartment buildings detracts from Irákleio’s individualistic use of dramatic
colour and elongated human
appeal. Yet, despite first impressions, the island’s capital
forms. In Italy, El Greco became
harbours a wealth of Venetian architecture, including the a disciple of Titian before
city walls and fortress. Its Archaeological Museum houses moving to Spain. He died in
the world’s greatest collection of Minoan art, and the city 1614, and his works can be
seen in major collections
provides easy access to the Palace of Knosós (see pp282–5). around the world. Ironically,
only one exists in Crete, at
Irákleio’s Historical Museum.
Mare (Fort on the Sea) by
the Venetians and Koulés by
the Turks, it was erected by
the Venetians between 1523
and 1540. Opposite the
fortress are the arcades of
the 16th-century Venetian
Façade of the Venetian church of Agios Títos Arsenali where ships were
built and repaired. West
Exploring Irákleio along the waterfront, the
At the heart of Irákleio is Historical Museum traces the El Greco’s The Landscape of the
Plateía Eleftheríou Venizélou, a history of Crete since early Gods-Trodden Mount Sinai (c.1570),
pedestrian zone with cafés and Christian times. Its displays Historical Museum
shops grouped around the include Byzantine icons and
ornate 17th-century friezes, sculptures, and
Morosini Fountain. archives of the Battle of exhibits are six icons by Michaíl
Facing the square, Crete (see p261). Pride Damaskinós, a 16th-century
the restored church of place is given to the Cretan artist who learned his
of Agios Márkos was only El Greco painting craft here. Next door, the
built by the Venetians in Crete, The Landscape 19th-century cathedral of Agios
in 1239 and is now of the Gods-Trodden Minás towers over the square.
used as a venue Mount Sinai (c.1570). To the east, the street market
for concerts and Lion of St Mark A short walk two in 1866 Street leads south to
exhibitions. From detail, fortress blocks southwest of Plateía Kornárou. Here, coffee is
here, 25 Avgoústou (25 Plateía Venizélou, on served from a charming convert-
August Street) leads north to the Plateía Agías Aikaterínis, is the ed Turkish pump-house, next to
Venetian harbour. On this street, 16th-century Venetian church of which a headless Roman statue
the elegantly restored 17th- Agía Aikateríni of Sinai. Once a graces the 16th-century Bembo
century Loggia was a meeting monastic foundation famous as a Fountain. East, along Avérof,
place for the island’s nobility and centre of art and learning, it now Plateía Eleftherías (Freedom
now serves as Irákleio’s city hall. houses the Museum of Religious Square) is dominated by a statue
Beyond the Loggia, in a small Art, a magnificent collection of of Elefthérios Venizélos (1864–
square set back from the road, Byzantine icons, frescoes and 1936), the politician central
is the refurbished 16th-century manuscripts. The most significant to Crete’s union with Greece.
church of Agios Títos, dedicated
to the island’s patron saint. On
the other side of 25 Avgoustou,
the tiny El Greco Park is named
after Crete’s most famous painter.
At the northern end of 25
Avgoustou, the old harbour is
dominated by the Venetian
fortress, whose dauntingly
massive structure successfully
repulsed prolonged assaults by
the invading Turks in the 17th
century. Named the Rocca al Irákleio’s boat-lined harbour, dominated by the vast Venetian fortress
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
IRAKLEIO 279
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Irákleio. * 170,000.
n Xanthoudídou 1 (28134
46100, dtkritis@otenet.gr). ( Sat.
_ Summer Festival: Jul–Sep.
L Amoudára 10 km (6 miles) W.
∑ heraklion.gr
Transport
k 5 km (3 miles) E. g E of
Venetian harbour. @ Leofóros
The Bembo drinking fountain, Plateía Kornárou Papadimitríou (for Réthymno,
Chaniá, Agios Nikólaos and Ierá-
Off the square, the pedestrianized E Historical Museum petra); Plateía Kóraka (for Mátala).
Daidálou is good for shops and Lysimáchou Kalokairinoú 7.
restaurants. Just to the north is Tel 28102 83219. Open 9am–5pm
the Irákleio Archaeological Mon–Sat (Nov–Mar: 3:30pm). climbs to the village of Týlissos,
Museum (see pp280–81) and Closed main public hols. & 7 where the remains of three
main tourist office. E Museum of Religious Art Minoan villas were found in
South of town, beyond the Agía Aikateríni of Sinai, Plateía 1902. West of Irákleio, the road
old city walls, the small Museum Agías Aikaterínis. Tel 28103 36316. leads to the village of Fódele,
of Natural History deals with Open 9:30am–7:30pm daily. claimed to be the birthplace
the natural environment of the &7 of El Greco. His house lies above
Aegean. Exhibits include fossils the Byzantine church to the
E Museum of Natural History
and live animals. north-west. The CretAquarium,
Sofokli Venizélou. Tel 28102 82740.
15 km (9 miles) east from
P Loggia Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Irákleio, exhibits around 200
25 Avgoústou. Tel 28103 99399. Nov–Apr: 10am–3pm Mon–Fri,
species of fish and invertebrates.
Open Mon–Sat. Closed main 10am–6pm Sat & Sun).
public hols. O CretAquarium
+ Fortress Environs Near Gournes. Tel 28103 37788.
Venetian harbour. Tel 28102 88484. Travelling west by the main Open May–Sep: 9:30am–9pm daily;
Open 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (Nov– Irákleio–Réthymno road, a turn- Oct–Apr: 9:30am–5pm daily. & 7
Mar: 3pm). Closed main public hols. & off to Anógeia (see pp272–3) ∑ cretaquarium.gr
0 metres 300
Irákleio City Centre 0 yards 300
Venetian
1 Historical Museum Fortress
2 Museum of
Venetian
Religious Art EL OU Harbour
KI VENI Z
M.
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Ferry port
T H EOTO K O P O
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Museum TH A L I TA Venetian
5 Agios Márkos GAZI V I R ON O S
Arsenal
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Airport
CH TITOS AG A R I A D NI 5 km (3 miles)
S
9 Statue of Elefthérios AN S
I G IA
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KA PLATEIA E.
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18
AIKATERINI
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DASKALO-
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Agios Minás
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VIKELA PLATEIA
KORNAROU
Museum of
Natural History
6
This 16th-century BC
vessel (see p73) was used
for the pouring of ritual wines.
5
Found at Knosós, it is carved
from steatite, a black stone,
7
4
and a mother-of-pearl snout.
8
3
9
. Phaestos Disc
Made of clay, the disc was
found at the Palace of
10
Phaestos in 1903.
11
12
Octopus Vase
This fine late Minoan
vase from Palaíkastro
(see p291) is decorated
with images from Stairs to
the sea. first floor
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
IRAKLEIO 281
. Snake Goddesses
This bare-breasted female with
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
a snake in either hand is the
Practical Information
smaller of two faïence figurines
Corner of Xanthoudídi & Mpofór,
thought to represent the
Plateía Eleftherías, Irákleio.
snake goddess or a priestess
Tel 28102 79000.
performing religious rituals. Both
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
date from around 1600 BC, and were
Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm Mon,
found at Knosós.
8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
& 7 ground floor only. -
18
16
17
15
14
20
19
First floor
2
Key to Floorplan
13
Gallery Guide
The exhibits, arranged chronologically, showcase the history of
the Cretan civilization from the prehistoric era to Roman times,
Gardens
with a focus on religious and ceremonial practices, mortuary habits,
bureaucratic administration and daily life. The extensive Minoan
Entrance
collection is on display on the ground floor and includes an array
of sculptures, while the first floor is home to the famous frescoes.
Throughout the museum there are also thematic displays, such as
Minoan wall paintings.
282 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Horns of Consecration
Sitting on the south façade, these
KEY restored horns are a symbol of the
sacred bull, and would once have
1 The South House, partly adorned the top of the palace.
restored, was once three storeys
high. It was probably the residence Modern
of a palace official. entrance
2 Corridor of the Procession
3 Bust of Sir Arthur Evans
4 Kouloúres (storage pits)
5 West Court
6 West Magazines
7 Stairs to Piano Nobile
(upper floor)
8 To Theatre and Royal Road
9 North Lustral Basin
0 Charging Bull fresco
q North Pillar Hall
(Customs House)
w The magazines of the giant
pithoi contain jars dating from the
First Palace period (c.1800 BC).
e King’s Megaron (Hall of the
Double Axes)
r Hall of the Royal Guard
t Queen’s Megaron
y Grand Staircase
u Central Court
i The Tripartite Shrine,
formerly protected by a roof, was
one of many shrines facing on to
the Central Court.
South Propylon
Entrance to the palace
was through this . Priest-King Fresco
monumental, pillared This replica of the Priest-King
gateway, decorated fresco, also known as the
with a replica of the Prince of the Lilies, is a detail
cup-bearer figure, a from the Procession fresco
detail from the and depicts a figure wearing
Procession fresco. a crown of lilies and feathers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
T H E PA L A C E O F K N O S O S 283
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
5 km (3 miles) S of Irákleio.
Tel 28102 31940. Open Apr–Oct:
8am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–
5pm Mon, 8am–3pm Tue–Sun.
Closed main public holidays.
&8=
Transport
@
. Throne Room
With its adjoining antechamber and lustral basin, the Throne Room is
believed to have served as a shrine. The original stone throne, thought
to be that of a priestess, is guarded by a restored fresco of griffins,
sacred symbols in Minoan times.
. Giant Pithoi
Over 100 giant
North entrance pithoi (storage
jars) were
unearthed at
Knosós. The jars
were used to store
palace supplies.
. Royal Apartments
These rooms include the King’s Megaron, also known as the
Hall of the Double Axes; the Queen’s Megaron, which is
decorated with a copy of the famous dolphin fresco and
has an en suite bathroom; and the Grand Staircase.
284 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
Stairs to
Piano Nobile Grand
(upper floor) Staircase
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 287
g Mália
Μάλια
36 km (22 miles) E of Irákleio.
* 2,700. @ L Stalída 3 km
(2 miles) NW.
E Folk Museum
Agios Geórgios. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–3pm daily. & 7
} Diktian Cave
Psychró. Tel 28410 22462.
Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:30pm
daily; Νov–Mar: 9:30am–3:30pm
A small shrine in the multichambered Mílatos Cave daily. Closed main public hols. &
288 THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA
The inner harbour of Agios Nikólaos, with Lake Voulisméni in the foreground
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 289
Environs
Along the National Highway,
2 km (1 mile) west of Gourniá,
an old concrete road turns left
up a spectacular 6-km (4-mile)
climb to Moní Faneroménis.
Here, the 15th-century chapel
of the Panagía has been built
into a deep cave and is the
repository for sacred (and
some say miraculous) icons.
East along the National
Highway, a left turning from
Sfáka leads down to the
delightful fishing village of
Móchlos. The small island of
Móchlos, once joined to the
mainland by a narrow isthmus,
is the site of a Minoan
settlement and cemetery. Siteía’s old quarter on the hillside overlooking the tree-lined harbour
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp318–19 and pp337–8
CRETE 291
v Moní Toploú
Μονή Τοπλού
16 km (10 miles) W of Siteía, Lasíthi.
Tel 28430 29630. @ to Váï.
Site & Museum: Open daily. &
L Itanos 8 km (5 miles) NE.
b Váï Beach
Παραλία Βάι
28 km (17 miles) NE of Siteía,
Lasíthi. @
The birthplace of European civilization, The rich cultural heritage of Athens can
Athens has been inhabited for 7,000 be appreciated in some magnificent
years, since the Neolithic era. Ancient museums, including the National Archaeo-
Athens reached its high point in the 5th logical Museum, where an unrivalled
century BC, when Perikles commissioned collection of Neolithic, Cycladic and
many fine new buildings, including Mycenaean artifacts, through to treasures
some of the temples on the Acropolis. from Roman and Hellenistic times,
Other relics from the Classical period beautifully illustrates the glories of ancient
can be seen in the Ancient Agora, a Greece. The contemporary Acropolis
complex of public buildings dominated Museum houses a fabulous collection
by the reconstructed stoa of Attalos, of statues and reliefs from the ancient
a long, covered colonnade. Acropolis site, while the excellent Benáki
There is little architectural evidence of the Museum hosts Greek art and crafts. The
city’s more recent history of occupation. National Gallery of Art includes well-known
With the exception of some fine Byzantine works by both Greek and European artists.
churches, particularly those in historic The nightlife in Athens is excellent, with
Pláka, one of the oldest areas of Athens, tavernas, clubs and bars open until the
nothing of importance has survived from early hours. Open-air cinemas and theatres,
the years of Frankish, Venetian and such as the Theatre of Herodes Atticus at
Ottoman rule. In 1834, inspired by the the foot of the Acropolis, are popular in
Classical buildings of the Acropolis, King summer. There is music for every taste, from
Otto declared Athens the new capital of traditional Greek to pop and classical. Shop-
Greece, and his Greek, German and Danish ping ranges from flea markets and antique
town planners and architects created a and bric-a-brac shops in Monastiráki, to
modern city of Neo-Classical municipal designer boutiques in Kolonáki. Pedestriani-
buildings, wide boulevards and elegant zation of the city centre makes Athens a
squares around the ancient “Sacred Rock”. pleasant place to explore on foot.
OU
NO
Exploring Athens
RETHYM
SARIPOL
AFTOKR
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well as many temporary exhibitions. Shopping SOLO
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provides an alternative to sightseeing, from the
MPO
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bric-a-brac in Pláka to the designer stores in US
A
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TO
Kolonáki. For information on getting around KANINGOS
PA S
GEOR
U
KL
O
LE
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VERA
Athens, see pages 302–5. NZER K
OV
OU O
ST
IS
I
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The Central Market A
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fine array of foods, herbs
O
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Olympian Zeus
Figure from the Mitrópoli is Athens’ cathedral. It towers over 0 metres 250
Museum of Cycladic the tiny Byzantine Panagía Gorgoepíkoös
0 yards 250
Art (see p301) (or Little Cathedral) next to it. A
DI
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p319 and pp338–9
ARA A S H O R T S TAY I N AT H E N S 295
I
KA
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IO
TRIKO
OU U
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ATHENS
ADO
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TOSI
TSA
TSAM
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NOTA
DONO
Locator Map
PLATEIA
EXARCHEION
Sights at a Glance
A
RA
AN
CH
A
KI
DR
LT
A
O
EA
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Museums and Galleries
ET
Ancient Sites
VI
P
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3 Ancient Agora
A
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7 Benáki Museum
RA
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V
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with designer stores.
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1 National
Archaeological
Museum
Εθνικό Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο
44 Patissíon, Exárcheia. Tel 21321
44800. q Omónoia. Open Apr–Oct:
8am–8pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm.
& 8 7 - ∑ namuseum.gr
When it was opened in 1891, Shoppers browsing in Athens’ lively Monastiráki market
this museum brought together
a collection that had previously elegant figure vases from and various odds and ends.
been stored all over the city. the 6th and 5th centuries During the week and on Sunday
New wings were added in 1939, BC (see pp72–3) and some mornings, the shops and stalls
but during World War II this Geometric funerary vases are filled with antiques, second-
priceless collection was that date back to 1000 BC. hand books, rugs, leatherware,
dispersed and buried under- The Library of Archaeology taverna chairs, army surplus
ground to protect it from any holds a large collection of rare gear and tools.
possible damage. The museum books, including the diaries The market flourishes along
reopened in 1946, but it took of Heinrich Schliemann, who Adrianoú and in Plateía Agíou
another 50 years of renovation uncovered the remains of Troy. Filíppou. There are always num-
and reorganization to finally erous bargains to be had. Items
do justice to its formidable particularly worth investing in
collection. With its include some of the colourful
comprehensive assembly woven and embroidered cloths
of pottery, sculpture and and an abundance of good
jewellery, it definitely silver jewellery.
deserves ranking as one
of the finest museums in
the world. It is a good idea 3 Ancient Agora
to plan ahead and be Αρχαία Αγορά
selective when visiting the
Main entrance at Adrianoú 24,
museum and not attempt to
Monastiráki. Tel 21032 10185.
cover everything in one visit. q Thiseío, Monastiráki. Museum and
The museum’s exhibits can site: Open May–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
be divided into five main Nov–Apr: 8am–3pm daily. Closed
collections: Neolithic and main public hols. & 7 limited.
Cycladic; Mycenaean, Geometric The Mask of Agamemnon in the National
and Archaic; Classical sculpture; Archaeological Museum The American School of
Roman and Hellenistic sculpture; Archaeology commenced
and the pottery collections. excavations of the Ancient Agora
There are also other smaller 2 Monastiráki in the 1930s, and since then a
collections that are well worth Μοναστηράκι complex array of public buildings
seeing. These include the q Monastiráki. Market: Open daily.
and temples has been revealed.
stunning Eléni Stathátou The democratically governed
jewellery collection and the This area, named after the little Agora was the political and religi-
Egyptian rooms. monastery church in Plateía ous heart of Ancient Athens. Also
High points of the museum Monastirakíou, is synonymous the centre of commercial and
include the unique finds from with Athens’ famous fleamarket. daily life, it abounded with schools
the grave circle at Mycenae, in Located next to the Ancient and elegant stoas filled with
particular the gold Mask of Agora, it is bounded by Sari in shops. The state prison was here,
Agamemnon. Also not to be the west and Aiólou in the east. as was the mint, which was used
missed are the Archaic koúroi The streets of Pandrósou, Ifaístou to make the city’s coins inscribed
statues and the unrivalled and Areos leading off Plateía with the famous owl symbol.
collection of Classical and Monastirakíou are full of shops, Even the remains of an olive-oil
Hellenistic statues. Two of the selling a range of goods from mill have been found here.
most important and finest antiques, leather and silver to The main building standing
of the bronzes are the Horse tourist trinkets. today is the impressive two-
with the Little Jockey and the The heart of the flea market is storey stoa of Attalos. This was
Poseidon. Also housed here in Plateía Avyssinías, west of rebuilt between 1953 and 1956
is one of the world’s largest Plateía Monastirakíou, where on the original foundations and
collections of ancient every morning junk dealers using ancient building materials.
ceramics comprising arrive with pieces of furniture Founded by King Attalos of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p319 and pp338–9
A S H O R T S TAY I N AT H E N S 297
5 Acropolis
Ακρόπολη
In the mid-5th century BC, Perikles persuaded the Athenians
to begin a grand programme of new building work in
Athens that has come to represent the political and cultural
achievements of Greece. The work transformed the Acropolis
with three contrasting temples and a monumental gateway.
The Theatre of Dionysos on the south slope was developed
further in the 4th century BC, and the Theatre of Herodes The Acropolis with the Temple of Olympian Zeus
Atticus was added in the 2nd century AD. in the foreground
KEY
1 Pathway to Acropolis from
ticket office
2 The Belué Gate was the first
entrance to the Acropolis.
3 The Propylaia was built between
437 and 432 BC to form a new
entrance to the Acropolis.
4 An olive tree now grows where
Athena first planted her tree in a
competition against Poseidon.
5 Acropolis Museum (p300)
6 Two Corinthian columns are
the remains of choregic monuments
erected by sponsors of successful
dramatic performances.
7 Panagía Spiliótissa is a chapel
cut into the Acropolis rock itself.
8 Shrine of Asklepios
Theatre of Herodes Atticus
9 Stoa of Eumenes Also known as the Odeion of
0 The Acropolis rock was an Herodes Atticus, this superb theatre
easily defended site. It has been was originally built between AD 161
in use for nearly 5,000 years. and 174. It was restored in 1955 and
is used today for outdoor concerts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p319 and pp338–9
A S H O R T S TAY I N AT H E N S 299
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Parthenon
Although few sculptures Practical Information
are left on this famous Dionysíou Areopagítou (main
temple to Athena, some entrance), Pláka. Tel 21032 14172.
can still be admired, such Open May–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
as this one from the east Nov–Apr: 8am–3pm daily.
pediment (see p300). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Easter Sun,
1 May, 25 & 26 Dec. & 8
∑ odysseus.culture.gr
Transport
q Acropoli. @ 230, X80.
Theatre of Dionysos
This figure of the comic
satyr, Silenus, can be
seen here. The theatre
visible today was built
by Lykourgos between
333 and 330 BC.
Panathenaia festival of
438 BC. Designed and
constructed in Pentelic
marble by the architects
Kallikrates and Iktinos, the
complex architecture of
the Parthenon replaces
straight lines with slight
curves. This is generally
thought to have been done The Moschophoros (or Calf-Bearer) in
to prevent visual distortion the Acropolis Museum
or perhaps to increase the
A section from the north frieze of impression of grandeur. All the E Acropolis Museum
the Parthenon columns swell in the middle Dionysiou Areopagitou 15. Tel 21090
and all lean slightly inwards, 00900. Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm
T The Parthenon while the foundation platform daily (to 4pm Mon, to 10pm Fri); Nov–
One of the world’s most famous rises towards the centre. Mar: 9am–5pm daily (to 10pm Fri, to
buildings, the Parthenon was For the pediments and the 8pm Sat & Sun). Closed 1 Jan, Easter
commissioned by Perikles as friezes, which ran all the way round Sun & Mon, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec. &
7 - ∑ theacropolismuseum.gr
part of his rebuilding plan. Work the temple, an army of sculptors
began in 447 BC, when the and painters was employed. Located in the historic
sculptor Pheidias was entrusted Agorakritos and Alkamenes, Makrigiánni district at the foot
with supervising the building of both pupils of Pheidias, are two of the Acropolis, this €130
a magnificent new Doric temple of the sculptors who worked on million showpiece has been
to Athena, the patron goddess the frieze, which represented designed by Bernad Tschumi
of the city. It was built on the site the people and horses in the to house the treasures found
of earlier Archaic temples, and Panathenaic procession. on the Acropolis hill. It is
was designed primarily to Despite much damage and constructed over excavations
house the Parthenos, Pheidias’s alterations made to adapt to its of an early Christian settlement
impressive 12 m- (39 ft-) high various uses, which include a and a glass walkway hovers
cult statue of Athena covered church, a mosque, and even an over the ruins.
in ivory and gold. arsenal, the Parthenon remains The collection has been
Taking nine years to complete, a powerful symbol of the glories installed in chronological order
the temple was dedicated to of ancient Greece. It is currently and begins with finds from the
the goddess during the Great being restored. slopes of the Acropolis, including
statues and reliefs from the
Shrine of Asklepios.
The Archaic Collection is set
out in a magnificent double-
height gallery and contains
fragments of pedimental
statues such as the statue
of Moschophoros, or the
Calf-Bearer (c.570 BC).
The sky-lit Parthenon Gallery
on the top floor is the highlight.
Here, looking out onto the
Acropolis hill itself, the remaining
parts of the Parthenon frieze are
The Parthenon as seen from the southwest at sunrise displayed in their original order.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p319 and pp338–9
A S H O R T S TAY I N AT H E N S 301
8 Museum of
Cycladic Art
Μουσείο Κυκλαδικής Τέχνης
Neofýtou Doúka 4, Kolonáki,
(entrance to Stathátos mansion at
Irodótou 1). Tel 21072 28321.
v 3, 7. Open 10am–5pm Mon,
Wed, Fri & Sat; 10am–8pm Thu;
11am–5pm Sun. Closed main
public holidays. & 7 limited.
- ∑ cycladic.gr
Panepistimio National
Historical
Kerameikós Museum
Thiseío National
Gallery of Art
Plateía
Syntágmatos
Monastiráki Evangelismos
Key
Trolleybus 1
Byzantine
Trolleybus 3 Museum
Acrópoli
Trolleybus 7
Trolleybus 8
Archaeological Promenade
Pláka
G E T T I N G A R O U N D AT H E N S 303
Athens Transport Links Monastiráki. Metro Line 1 are especially useful if you are
The hub of Athens’ public (green line, from Omónoia staying in a hotel along the
transport is the area around and Monastiráki) extends to coast, or if you wish to have
the squares of Sýntagma and Piraeus; the journey from the a day on the beach.
Omónoia. From this central area, city centre to the port takes Though more expensive
the metro and various buses about half an hour. Trolleybus than public transport, the
can be taken to Elefthérios route 1 goes past Sýntagma most convenient way of
Venizélos International Airport, metro station and Laríssis train getting to and from any of
the port at Piraeus and Athens’ and metro stations. Laríssis train these destinations is by taxi.
Laríssis train station. In addition, station is also served by metro Journey times vary greatly,
three tram lines connect the Line 2 (red line), from both but if traffic is freeflowing,
city centre with the Attic coast. Sýntagma and Omónoia. the journey from the city
Bus X95 runs between the Tram line 3 runs along the centre to the airport takes
airport (see p361) and Plateía coast from Néo Fáliro to the sea about 40 minutes; the journey
Syntágmatos, and bus X96 side suburb of Voúla; tram line 4 from the city centre to Piraeus
links the airport to Piraeus port runs from Sýntagma Square in takes around 30 minutes; and
(see pp364–5). The airport is also the city centre to Néo Fáliro; the journey from Piraeus to
served by Line 3 (blue line) of and tram line 5 runs from Voúla the airport, via the coast,
the metro, from Sýntagma and to Sýntagma Square. These lines takes about 60 minutes.
Káto Patísia
FIS
N AT I O A D AT H E N S -
NAL R O
KI
Peristéri
KO
RI
NT Ag. Antónios
8 HO Ag. Nikólaos
S Douk Plakentias,
KYPSELI Airport
Sepólia
Agía Marina Coach Attikí
0 kilometres 2 Katehaki
Terminal A
Victória
0 miles 2 Panórmou
Egáleo
Mavrommataíon
Lárissa Coach Terminal
Peloponnísou
EGALEO & Laríssis Ambelókipoi
Omónoia
Agía Varvára Eleónas Metaxourgéio Panepistímio Mégaro Mousikis
U
ISO
Korydallos Kerameikós
KIF
Evangelismós
Monastiráki
Sýntagma
Níkaia
Thiseío
Petrálona Acrópoli Zappio
NIKAIA
4-5
Singroú-Fix
Maniátika Távros
A1
Fix
Aegéou
5
4-
RO
YMITTOS
G
N
Piraeus
Piraeus Néo Fáliro S.E.F.
Ag. Paraskeví
Ferries to Greek Islands Délta Falirou
VOUL
Achilléos
IAGMENIS
PIRAEUS
3-
Flísvos 4-5
Ilioúpoli
Moussón
3-5
PO
SI Alimos
D
O Kalamáki
N
ALIMOS
O
S
Key
Saronic Argyroúpoli
Central Athens Gulf
Metro line 1 Ellinikó
Ellinikó
Metro line 2 ELLINIKO
Metro line 3
3-5
WHERE TO STAY
You can easily spend a large amount on hospitality off the beaten track can still
some of the most luxurious hotel suites in the be warm and heartfelt. Various types of
Greek islands, and further down the market accommodation, including camp sites, are
Greece no longer enjoys a price advantage described over the next four pages. The listings
over other Mediterranean destinations. section on pages 312 to 319 includes a wide
However, due to the ongoing economic crisis, choice of places to stay, ranging from pensions
many hotels are offering good-value deals, or rented rooms to luxury and boutique
either direct or through booking websites. establishments, as well as accommodation
In contrast with commercialized, busy resorts, in restored buildings and self-catering units.
Grading
Hotels, pensions, villas and
apartments are all categorized
by the EOT. Hotels are graded
from one star to five stars, and
then deluxe. In practice, there
are now very few surviving
one-star hotels on the
islands. Pensions/rooms and
apartments are rated from
one to three keys. Some of
the high-end restoration inns
are placed in a special category.
The categorization system
places more emphasis on
Spectacular views from the terrace at Phaedra hotel, Hydra (see p313) common amenities, fixtures and
Traditional Greek slippers on offer in the village of Fiskárdo, Kefalloniá
W H E R E TO S TAY 309
Boutique Hotels
Luxury or boutique hotels,
sometimes occupying restored
traditional buildings, have
added a much-needed dash
of character to Greece’s
accommodation portfolio.
These design-led hotels put a
premium on style, technological
widgets, good food (if perhaps
only at breakfast), quality
materials and a high degree
of customer service. They are
equally likely to be found in the
heart of historic towns and
villages as near the beach. You The spectacular pool at Amirandes Grecotel Exclusive Resort, Crete (see p318)
should also expect to find solid-
wood furniture, expensive areas, such as Rhodes’ Old Town, In the early years of tourism,
Italian tiling on floors and Sými or other architecturally islanders often rented spare
walls, recessed lighting, protected island communities, bedrooms in their own
commissioned wall art, the local archaeological service dwelling. Nowadays, pension
butler sinks, rain showers, (Byzantine/post-Byzantine domátia are almost always in
complimentary bathrobes division) is obliged to supervise small, purpose-built blocks
and slippers, and so on. Such works. In the listings, there is with solar- or boiler-heated hot
lodgings are now widespread inevitably some overlap of water, en-suite bathrooms, and
across all the island groups, Restoration Inns with Luxury usually air-conditioning. Some
especially the Cyclades, Crete, and Boutique – many of these now offer designer bedrooms
Rhodes, the Sporades and the inns have all mod cons – but and bathrooms. Most rooms
Ionians. Few have more than equally often rooms are also have a balcony or ground-
30 or so rooms, so advance decidedly rustic, as at some level terrace, as well as basic
reservations are essential. Two of the rural Cretan inns and at self-catering facilities.
useful websites detailing many Volissós on Chíos. Besides the A critical difference between
of them, with booking links, are islands mentioned above, other a hotel and a pension/rooms
www.smallhotelsingreece.com recommended restoration inns establishment is that the latter
and www.greatsmallhotels.com. can be found on Hydra, Sýros, is not expected to provide
Lésvos, Santoríni and Kálymnos. breakfast. So rates given for
pension/rooms are room only,
Restoration Inns with breakfast where available
Perhaps the most interesting Pensions at an extra charge.
places to stay in the Greek Veteran Greek-island-hoppers
islands are restoration inns, may remember sign-waving
either a single handsome proprietors pitching their Villas
old building rescued from enoikiazómena domátia, or Self-catering villas and
dereliction, or even an entire rented rooms. Many pension apartments can be excellent-
abandoned village, respectfully owners are listed on the value accommodation in the
converted into accommodation. Internet, with advance booking Greek islands. Most apartments
In especially sensitive heritage the norm. are in small complexes of
20–30 units, built by local
owners to meet the demands
of the big package-holiday
companies. You can expect a
balcony, a kitchen, an en-suite
bathroom and a communal
area. Studios sleep two, usually
in twin beds. Many apartments
on offer accommodate four
to six people, with one or two
separate double bedrooms,
as well as a twin bedroom
or a sofabed.
More luxurious, villas are
usually strictly controlled by
specialist holiday companies
A traditional-style self-catering apartment on Santoríni overseas, or a designated
W H E R E TO S TAY 311
DIRECTORY
Chain Hotels Yades Greek Historic Camping Tourism for All
Hotels 7A Pixel Mill, 44 Appleby
Aldemar Hotels Tel 21036 40441. Panhellenic Camping Road, Kendal, Cumbria
∑ aldemar-resorts.gr ∑ yadeshotels.gr Association LA9 6ES.
Tel 21036 21560. Tel 08451 249971.
Bluegr Mamidakis
Tel 21110 67400. Villas ∑ greececamping.gr
∑ tourismforall.org.uk
∑ bluegr.com
Simpson Travel Hotel Listings
Grace Hotels ∑ simpsontravel.com
Disabled
Tel 21096 81852. Travellers Greek Travel Pages
Travel á la Carte Tel 21032 47511.
∑ gracehotels.com
∑ travelalacarte.co.uk Accessible Travel ∑ gtp.gr
Grecotel and Leisure
The Villa Collection Hellenic Chamber
∑ grecotel.com Tel 01452 729739 (UK).
Greek islands Club of Hotels
Santikos Collection ∑ gicthevillacollection. ∑ accessible Tel 21321 69900.
∑ santikoshotels.com com travel.co.uk ∑ grhotels.gr
312 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Rooms, often with full port Price Guide
The Ionian Islands views, contrast bold colour Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
accents against white walls.
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
CORFU: Bella Venezia €€
Boutique KEFALLONIA: Linardos € € up to €80
N. Zambéli 4, 49100 Corfu town Apartments €€ €80 to €160
€€€ over €160
Tel 26610 46500 28085 Asos
∑ bellaveneziahotel.com Tel 26740 51563
Located in the atmospheric Pórta ∑ linardosapartments.gr products. Stunning views from
Remoúnda area, this Neo-Classical The smart apartments at Linardos the infinity pool and suites. The
former girls’ school offers stylish have dark-wood furniture and restaurant fare is locally sourced.
doubles and top-floor suites. kitchen facilities. Stunning views
of Asos Bay and the pebble beach. PAXOS: Paxos Beach Hotel €€
CORFU: Delfino Blu €€ Seaside Resort
Luxury KEFALLONIA: White Rocks 2 km (1 mile) southeast of town,
Agios Stéfanos Avliotón, 49081 Hotel & Bungalows €€€ 49082 Gáïos
Tel 26630 51629 Seaside Resort Tel 26620 32211
∑ delfinoblu.gr Platys Gialós, 28100 Argostóli ∑ paxosbeachhotel.gr
Alongside views of the sunset Tel 26710 28332 Gáïos’s tavernas are just a
beyond Mathráki Island, Delfino ∑ whiterocks.gr 15-minute walk from this
Blu has contemporary suites with These bungalows and suites, with stone-clad bungalow complex
DVD players, music systems and sea views, are ideally located and with a private pebble beach.
rain showers. Gourmet restaurant. surrounded by great beaches.
ZAKYNTHOS:
CORFU: Corfu Palace €€€ LEFKADA: Ostria € Villa Katerina €
Luxury Pension Villas
Dimokratías 2, 49100 Corfu town Top approach road, Agios Nikítas, 31080 Pórto Róma, Vasilikós peninsula,
Tel 26610 39485 Tel 26450 97300 29100
∑ corfupalace.com ∑ hotelostria.com Tel 26950 35456
This grand dame of Corfu town Ostria offers charming balconied ∑ villakaterina.com
hotels since 1954 overlooks Garítsa rooms with terracotta floors and The studios and apartments
Bay. Rooms feature wood-veneer objets trouvés. There are panora- on the upper floors of Villa
floors and marble bathrooms. mic Ionian views from all units. Katerina look over the olive trees.
Close to many tavernas and
LEFKADA: Porto Fico €€ beaches, including Gérakas.
DK Choice Seaside Resort
CORFU: The Merchant’s Pónti beach, 31082 Vasilikí ZAKYNTHOS:
House €€€ Tel 26450 31402 Paliokaliva Village €€
Restoration Inn ∑ portoficohotel.com Villas
Paleá Períthia, 49081 Porto Fico’s well-tended front Tragáki district, 29100 Tsilívi,
Tel 26630 98444 lawn leads from the pool to the 2 km (1 mile) from beach
∑ themerchantshousecorfu.com beach and windsurf school. Tel 26950 63770
A medieval tradesmen’s bazaar ∑ paliokaliva.gr
has been meticulously restored LEFKADA: Serenity €€€ These family-friendly self-catering
as cutting-edge suites, where Luxury units are inside garden- and
attention to detail is reflected in Just south of Atháni, 31082 orchard-set cottages. Rustic decor.
natural bedding and huge bath- Tel 26450 33639
rooms. The Anglo-Dutch owners ∑ serenity-th.com
are brilliant hosts, serving break- This retreat hotel focuses on
fast to order on the lawn terrace. its spa, which uses Dead Sea The Argo-Saronic
Islands
ITHACA: Captain’s € AIGINA: Brown €
Apartments Restoration Inn
Hillside above Kióni, 28301 Aktí Hatzí 3–4, 18010
Tel 26740 31481 Tel 22970 22271
∑ captains-apartments.gr ∑ hotelbrown.gr
The apartments at this small, This converted 1880s sponge
family-run complex have factory stands opposite Aígina
sweeping bay views and neutral town’s southerly beach.
decor, and offer a warm welcome.
AIGINA: Rastoni €€
ITHACA: Perantzada 1811 Boutique
Art Hotel €€€ Stratigoú Dimítri Petrití 31, 18010
Boutique Tel 22970 27039
Odysséos Androútsou, 28300 Vathy ∑ rastoni.gr
Tel 26740 33496 Enjoy breakfast in a courtyard
∑ perantzadahotel.com garden at this hotel on a slope
This 1811-vintage mansion is Suites at The Merchant’s House in Corfu - north of the port. Every unit looks
now a carefully appointed inn. a former medieval tradesmen’s bazaar over pistachio trees to the Saronic.
W H E R E TO S TAY 313
HYDRA: Kirki €
Pension
Miaoúli Street, 80 m (90 yards) from
quay, 18040
Tel 22980 53181
∑ kirkihotel.com
The simple but serviceable
rooms at this friendly inn feature
colourful wall art and balconies.
DK Choice
HYDRA: Phaedra €€
Luxury
220 m (240 yards) inland; start at
Tompázi, fork left at Amalour bar;
18040 One of the spacious rooms at the Phaedra hotel, Hydra
Tel 22980 53330
∑ phaedrahotel.com restored, antique-filled EVVOIA: Mousiko Pandoheio €€
Set in a secluded locale, the apartments at Sto Roloï. Boutique
Phaedra has just six antique- Several are suitable for families. West entrance to village, 34014 Stení
filled rooms, each with its own Tel 22280 51202
entrance, and striking mountain SPETSES: Armata €€ ∑ mousikopandoxeio.gr
views from a shared terrace. Boutique At the “Musical Lodge”, musical
Agíou Antoníou district, 18050 motifs dominate the decor
Tel 22980 72683 and the ground-floor bar hosts
HYDRA: Orloff €€€ ∑ armatahotel.gr regular weekend performances.
Boutique This romantic hideout has a lush
Rafália 9, crn Vótsi (main inland pool garden and plush interiors. EVVOIA: Thermae Sylla
square), 18040 The rooms are beautiful and Spa Wellness Hotel €€€
Tel 22980 52564 luxury toiletries and fluffy towels Luxury
∑ orloff.gr are supplied. Posidónos 2, 34300 Aidipsós
Antiques and original features Tel 22260 60100
abound at this 1796-built mansion. SPETSES: Poseidonion ∑ thermaesyllaspa-hotel.com
Enjoy breakfast in the lovely garden. Grand €€€ Honeymooners and wedding
Luxury parties pamper themselves at
KYTHIRA: Spitia Vasili €€ West of Dápia, 18050 this refurbished belle époque
Apartments Tel 22980 74553 spa-hotel. The hot springs have
80100 Kapsáli ∑ poseidonion.com flowed here since antiquity.
Tel 27360 31125 Opened in 1914, this
∑ kithira.biz characterful hotel has a two- SKIATHOS: Atrium €€
These simply furnished two-, three- level tower suite. Atmospheric Seaside Resort
and four-bedroom bungalows common areas include the Hillside above Agía Paraskeví beach,
with sea views are scattered amid period-tiled Library Brasserie 37002
the olive trees just outside Kapsáli. and the garden spa. Tel 24270 49345
∑ atriumhotel.gr
KYTHIRA: Venardos €€ Atrium is a four-star complex
Boutique where the six grades of rooms/
80100 Agía Pelagía The Sporades and family suites are tastefully
Tel 27360 34100
∑ venardos-hotels.gr
Evvoia minimalist. Good breakfast.
Plain rooms with dark-wood ALONNISOS: Konstantina SKIATHOS: Aegean Suites €€€
touches overlook the sea or pool Studios € Luxury
courtyard. Jacuzzi and sauna on Apartments Megáli Ammos, 2 km (1 mile)
site. Located close to the beach. Eastern edge of Palaiá Alónissos, west of town, 37002
37005 Tel 24270 24069
POROS: Pavlou € Tel 24240 66165 ∑ santikoshotels.com
Seaside Resort ∑ konstantinastudios.gr An adults-only hillside hotel,
Megálo Neório The studios here have separate within walking distance from
Tel 22980 22734 kitchen alcoves for self-catering Skiáthos town, offers huge suites
∑ pavlouhotel.gr guests and views east over the with sound systems and sea views.
This family-friendly establishment village to Skántzoura. There is also a poolside restaurant.
at the edge of a beach offers ten-
nis courts, a pool and a restaurant. ALONNISOS: Yalis €€ SKOPELOS: Kyr Sotos €
Luxury Pension
POROS: Sto Roloï €€ Vótsi, 37005 Just inland from mid-quay,
Villas Tel 24240 66186 37003 Skópelos town
Kostelénou 34–36, 18020 ∑ yalishotel.gr Tel 24240 22549
Tel 22980 25808 Some of the suites at this clifftop ∑ skopelos.net/sotos
∑ storoloi-poros.gr hotel offer sweeping views and This centrally located pension has
A cluster of three houses has exposed beams. All have a small a cult following. The most relaxing
been divided into impeccably living room and free Wi-Fi. rooms face the interior courtyard.
For more information on types of hotels see pp308–311
314 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
KARPATHOS: Glaros €
Villas
South hillside above the port,
85700 Diafáni
Tel 22450 51501
∑ hotel-glaros.gr
These spacious lodgings have
unbeatable views over the bay
to the mountains. Self-catering
accommodation, but the hosts
also offer an optional breakfast. Majestic views from the veranda at Adrina Beach Resort & Spa, Skópelos
For more information on types of hotels see pp308–311
316 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
MYKONOS: Mykonos
Grand Resort €€€
Seaside Resort
Agios Ioánnis, 84600
Tel 22890 25555
∑ mykonosgrand.gr
This luxury outfit with sunset views
over Delos Island has superior
sea-view rooms with egg-shaped
soaking tubs. There’s also a spa.
KOLONAKI: St George
Lycabettus €€
Boutique
Kleoménous 2, 10675
Tel 210 74 16 000
∑ sglycabettus.gr
As well as superb views over the
Acropolis, this modern hotel has
a rooftop pool and restaurant, a
spa and an art gallery. The impressive 1920s façade of the Electra Palace, Thessaloníki
For more information on types of hotels see pp308–311
320 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
flash-fried atherína (sand smelt) supporting local producers, predominates – vary subtly
or gávros (anchovy) and later on, so presence of their distinctive between them. They are most
whole grilled thrápsalo (giant badge at the door guarantees, fun in a small group, since the
deep-water squid) or octopus in theory, that the establish- idea is to share a dozen or
(one tentacle per portion). ment will probably prove so small platters of savoury
For delicious meat grills, head very good if not excellent. meats, seafood delicacies and
to a psistariá, specializing in Exotic cooking has made vegetables – the mezédes or
spit-roasts and charcoal-grilled few inroads except on the appetizers. More substantial
(sta kárvouna) chops or biftéki largest or busiest resort islands. mains follow, but it is not
(Greek hamburger). Mprizóles Nouvelle French, generic obligatory to order these; starters
are pork chops; païdákia are Southeast Asian, rather bogus alone can be very rich and filling.
lamb chops. The standard roast Mexican, better Argentinian All serve one or more of the
meats are entire spitted and variably successful Middle following spirits distilled from
chickens, gourounópoulo Eastern are the main inter- the grape residue of wine-
(suckling pig), kondosoúvli national cuisines encountered. making: anise-flavoured oúzo
(pork chunks), whole lamb The most popular, though, is (see p150), tsípouro (available
and kokorétsi (offal roulade). Italian, either simple pizza or without anise and less cloying),
With outstanding exceptions, full-on restaurants. or Cretan/Cycladic rakí (always
tavernas attached to beach- without anise), along with a
resort hotels peddle predictable bucket of ice and water. Pop the
“international” menus and The Mezedopoleío, ice in a glass, pour in the spirit,
rather bland versions of Greek Ouzerí and Tsipourádiko and adjust the strength with
specialities. Smaller island Other categories of taverna that water. All spirits arrive in sealed
hotels, however, may have have come to prominence in bottles (typically 200 ml) or, if
excellent in-house restaurants, recent decades are the ouzerí decanted in bulk, small jugs
open to non-residents. and the mezedopoleío (mezédes (150–250 ml).
As part of the general culinary shop), the tsipourádiko and the Musical mezedopoleía/
renaissance, creative Greek rakádiko. The terms have to rakádika, with a price premium
tavernas have appeared. Chef- some extent become inter- for quality acoustic live music
owners, having absorbed changeable, though the several nights weekly, are found
lessons living and working proportions of tipple to food – in larger centres like Athens,
abroad, are updating traditional and which type of drink Thessaloníki, Rhodes and Crete.
recipes and being more daring:
less oil, more herbs and spices,
unusual flavour juxtapositions,
while proudly sourcing local
(often organic) ingredients. Such
tavernas are also more likely to
stock foreign wines along with
premium Greek labels, and to
have an interesting dessert list.
Worth a mention, in the
Cyclades, is the Aegean Cuisine
chain; member tavernas
commit themselves to using
traditional recipes and A table laden with mezédes and wine at Selene, a fine dining restaurant in Santoríni (see p336)
322 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Wheelchair Access
In small island villages with
level, kerbless expanses of
outdoor seating, there are few
problems for wheelchair users,
but access to the restaurant
interior (where the toilets often
are) cannot be guaranteed.
Doors are typically narrow,
ramps absent, stairs abundant.
For Dessert
There may be a separate menu
section for desserts (epidórpia),
but more commonly a taverna
will provide a kérasma, or sweet,
on the house. Depending on
locale and season, this might
be simigdalísio chalvás (halva
made from semolina, butter
and sugar), ekmek kataïfi (bread
pudding and custard on a
kataïfi base), a dollop of panna
cotta, glykó koutalioú (“spoon
sweet”, commonly candied
green grapes, green figs or
Produce on sale in a typical Greek market cherries) or a platter of Persian
melon or watermelon.
appear on Aegean taverna sfirída. Late spring sees squid
menus. The cuisine of northern spawn (gónos kalamaráki), while WHAT TO DRINK
Greece especially, with strong summer means the appearance
Jewish and refugee contrib- of sardélla (sardine), gávros Wine-making in Greece is an
utions, is most adventurous, (anchovy), atherína (sand smelt) ancient – and ongoing –
being the only part of Greece and skáros (parrotfish), as well tradition (see p18), with older
with a taste for spicy food. as pelasgic tuna and swordfish. wineries found on Crete,
Mussels are always farmed, and Santoríni, Rhodes, Sámos and
Límnos. That said, most tavernas
prawns are likely to be imported
Fish and Seafood except in winter or spring.
still stock labels, especially
reds, from premier mainland
The warm and sheltered waters
wine-producing regions:
of the Aegean are home to Peloponnesian Neméa,
assorted fish, cephalopods and Macedonia and Epirus. Retsína
shellfish, whose abundance (pine-resin-flavoured wine) is
varies seasonally. Fish are served made on Límnos, Sámos, Rhodes
with heads on to indicate the and Crete, but purists aver that
variety; Greeks consider the only Attica retsína is genuine.
cheek flesh especially tasty. Distilled spirits include oúzo,
Scaly fish featuring in taverna tsípouro and rakí. Brandy and
chiller-cases often belong to fortified dessert wines may
the enormous bream family, also be offered. “Greek” (Oriental)
most prestigiously fagkrí (red coffee is made from fine-ground
porgy) or skathári (black beans boiled up in a long-
bream). Equally prized are the handled mpríki pot, served
dentexes synagrída and ballás, Bread being baked in an outdoor in tiny cups.
or the groupers rofós and communal oven
Spetzofáï, from Thessalian Barboúnia (red mullet) has been Loukoumádes are a street-stall
Mount Pílio, is sautéed slices Greece’s most esteemed fish snack of small deep-fried dough-
of spicy country sausage with since antiquity. Koutsomoúres are nuts soaked in honey-syrup and
herbs and vegetables. a smaller, cheaper offering. sprinkled with cinnamon.
326 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ΜΕΖEΔΕΣ
MEZÉDES
Olives
Ελιές
Eliés
Salted mullet Tαραμοσαλάτα
roe dip Taramosolata
Πλακί
Plakí
Choriátiki saláta, Greek salad, Fish are at their Σχάρας
combines tomatoes, cucumber, best around the Scháras
onions, herbs, capers and coast and on
feta cheese. the islands. Kαλαμάρι Tηγανητό
Kalamária Tiganitá
Fried squid
Meat is more
readily available on
the mainland than
ΚΡΈΑΣ on the islands.
KREÁS
Μουσακάς
Mousakás Moussaka (minced
lamb and aubergine
Σουβλάκια
Souvlákia baked in layers)
Χοιρινό σουβλάκι
Choirinó souvláki
Χωριάτικη σαλάτα
Choriátiki saláta Fried aubergines
Μελιτζάνες και κολοκυθάκια τηγανιτά (eggplant) and
Melitzánes kai kolokythákia tiganitá courgettes (zucchini)
ΕΠΙΔΌΡΠΙΑ
EPIDÓRPIA
Candied,
preserved fruit
ZAKYNTHOS: Malanos €
Oinomageireíon
Agíou Athanasíou 38, Kípi district,
Zákynthos town
Tel 26950 45936
A deservedly popular mecca for
mageireftá. Try the mince-rich
giouvarlákia (rissoles) and the
fasolákia yahní (runner beans in a
red sauce), or opt for more daring
dishes like salmon in an orange
sauce. Live music at weekends.
changes regularly and features turn up in vegetarian dishes like now runs this shoreline spot.
fáva (yellow split peas) mash, soufikó (the island ratatouille) The menu features the same
skinny local sausages, and pastirma and squash-stuffed píttes. salubrious mageireftá and a
and cheese quiche, plus good few grills, but there is also
Kefala bulk wine and house soúma. IKARIA: MaryMary €€ more seafood.
Mediterranean
CHIOS: Passas € Armenistís, 83301 LÉSVOS: Anemoessa €€
Seafood Tel 22750 71595 Closed Nov–Apr Traditional Taverna
Waterfront, where it bends, Langáda This small tavern on a balcony Closest to the harbour chapel,
Tel 22710 74218 Closed winter: serves attractively presented food Skála Sykaminiás
Mon–Thu amid sweeping views of the Tel 22530 55360 Closed winter:
This is the go-to place on the Aegean Sea. The menu features a weekdays
east coast for a delicious seafood huge variety of salads, pasta, rice, Tuck into fresh sardines, chtapódi
spread. There are some meat meat and fish. Try the kritharóto krasáto, aubergine dishes and
dishes too, and a wide range of (orzo pasta dish) with shrimps and the perennial island favourite,
tsípouro and oúzo. Enjoy them all the pork fillets in mushroom sauce. stuffed courgette blossoms,
sitting under the eucalyptus tree. at this lovely restaurant in a
LESVOS: Balouhanas € picture-postcard setting.
CHIOS: Poseidonas (Neptune) € Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí
Traditional Taverna North end of the waterfront, Pérama LÉSVOS: Ouzadiko
Emporeiós waterfront, on the left Tel 22510 51948 tou Baboukou €€
as you arrive Besides seafood, Balouhanas Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí
Tel 22710 70020 (from the Turkish for “fish hall”) South quay, Mólyvos port
Touring Chíos’s mastichohória, is known for unusual platters like Tel 22530 71776 Closed winter:
you’re likely to pass through the gioúzleme (Anatolian crêpes) and weekdays
tiny port of Emporeiós, where an ample dessert list. Seating is This long-running bohemian
the local summer speciality is on a wooden deck over the water. ouzerí has been going since
atherína – sand smelt, served the 1960s, and it proves a dab
fried with flour and onions. Try hand at all seafood (try the
it at this typical taverna. DK Choice prawn pasta), salads and the
LESVOS: Ermis € usual mezédes. All Lésvos
CHIOS: Roussiko € Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí ouzos are available.
Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí Kornárou 2, crn of Ermoú, Epáno
Agia Ermioni Skála district, Mytilíni town LÍMNOS: Mantella €
Tel 22710 33352 Tel 22510 26232 Traditional Taverna
Enjoy delicious food, including A Muslim, alcohol-free coffee- Centre, Sardés village
a variety of mezédes, at this house from 1805 to 1922, Ermis Tel 22540 61349
restaurant. The fried aubergine is now the oldest ouzerí on Lésvos. This cult taverna doubles as
with cheese and the parchment It has hosted fashion shoots the central kafeneío of the
paper pork dish are a must try. among its antique furniture, wall highest Limnian village. Big
art and belle époque floor tiles. portions of country cooking
FOURNOI: Nikos € Generously portioned mezédes (rabbit stifádo, rooster krasáto
Traditional Taverna and a full spectrum of island with noodles) are washed down
On the quay at the corner of the oúzo are served indoors or on with excellent barrel wine.
main street the patio, under a vine pergola.
Tel 22750 51207 Closed Nov–Apr LIMNOS: Sozos €
This taverna offers a traditional Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí
Greek experience where guests LÉSVOS: Thalassa € Central plaza, Platý village
can visit the kitchen and see Traditional Taverna Tel 22540 25085 Closed Nov–Apr
what is being prepared. There is Seafront, Pétra resort Mezédes, salads, a few mageireftá,
no menu, but there is always a Tel 22530 41336 Closed mid-Oct–Apr steamed mussels and all manner
selection of fresh fish. The same family who for years of roasts are present and served
kept the excellent Petrí taverna here at Sozos. Booking advised.
IKARIA: Arodou €
Traditional Taverna
Xylosýrti, 5 km (3 miles) west of
Agios Kírykos
Tel 22750 22700 Closed Oct–May:
Mon
Next to the village church, this
taverna with sea views attracts
crowds from the capital for its
mezédes and grills. Big portions,
so be sure to bring your appetite.
IKARIA: Thea €
Oinomageireíon
Main street, Nas clifftop
Tel 22750 71491 Closed Oct–May:
weekdays
An American-Ikarian lady produces
the best mageireftá in the area at
Thea. Crops from the family farm Oúzo, an anise-flavoured apéritif which turns cloudy when mixed with water
For more information on types of restaurants see pp320–323
332 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
KARPATHOS: La Gorgona
(Gabriella’s) €€
Italian
South end of the quay, Diafáni
Tel 22450 51509 Closed Nov–Mar
The friendly proprietress makes The stunning views from La Gorgona (Gabriella’s), Kárpathos
a varied clientele feel welcome,
from breakfast (Diafáni’s best, KOS: Pote tin Kyriaki € LEROS: Mylos €€€
with proper coffees) until late. Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí Creative Greek
Platters include makaroúnes Pisándrou 9, Kos old town Out by the sea-marooned windmill,
noodles with a gorgonzola Tel 69303 52099 Closed Sun; Agía Marína
cheese sauce, aubergine dishes winter: also Mon–Thu Tel 22470 24894 Closed late Oct–
and seafood. End the meal Kos’s only genuine mezedopoleío late Mar
with a home-made dessert serves up marathópita (fennel Dishes like garidopílafo (shrimp
and Limoncello. A soundtrack patty), kavourdistí (pork fry-up) rice), octopus carpaccio, kalamári
of jazz and world music and assorted fish dishes, as well with pesto and courgette patties
completes the experience. as a strong house rakí. are worth the splurge at this
restaurant in a romantic setting.
KOS: Ambavris €€
KARPATHOS: Orea Karpathos €€ Traditional Taverna LEROS: Sotos €€€
Traditional Taverna Ampávris hamlet, Vouriná district, Seafood
Southeast end of the quay, Pigádia 700 m (765 yards) S of Kos town Drymónas anchorage, west coast
Tel 22450 22501 Closed Dec–Feb Tel 22420 25696 Closed mid-Oct–Apr Tel 22470 24546 Closed Nov–Mar
This is the best all-rounder in The mezédes at this taverna Only seasonal and local seafood is
the port, with dishes such as include lamb meatballs in oúzo featured at Sotos: oysters, mussels,
trahanádes soup and spinach sauce, husked beans with garlic, sea urchins, scallops and scaly fish.
pie to pair with local Othos snails, stuffed courgette blossoms There is pleasant port-view seating.
wine. Locals use it as an ouzerí, and fáva. Bottled or bulk oúzo
ordering a few small platters. and tsípouro is also available. LIPSI: Dilaila €€
Fine Dining
KASTELLORIZO: Paragadi €€ KOS: Hasan €€ Katsadiá, easterly bay
Seafood Turkish Tel 22470 41041 Closed mid-Oct–Apr
Near the ferry dock on the east quay Central junction, Platáni village The seasonally changing menu
Tel 22460 49396 Closed Dec–Mar Tel 22420 20230 at Lipsí’s most innovative kitchen
Despite the offputting picture Hasan has fewer mezédes than might include octopus carpaccio
menus, this is a solid choice the other Turkish restaurants in with red mulberries, tuna tartare
with a full range of seafood, Platáni, but it does offer a decent or squash and carrot salad.
plus some meat dishes. Adana kebab and a tasty okra
stew, plus a full drinks list. NISYROS: Balkoni tou Emboriou €
KASTELLORIZO: Traditional Taverna
Alexandra’s €€€ KOS: Makis €€ Central plateía, Emporeiós
Creative Greek Seafood Tel 22420 31607 Closed Nov–Apr
West end of the quay, main port Just inland from the sea, Mastichári Enjoy keftédes, fresh beets, pickled
Tel 22460 49019 Closed Dec–Mar Tel 22420 59061 caper greens and cheese-based
Come to Alexandra's to experience Makis is thought to offer the recipes while taking in views of the
the best cooking in town. Diners freshest and best-priced fish on volcano. When you leave, ask how
tuck into octopus and courgette Kos, along with salads and dips. the antique mirror inside shattered.
croquettes, grilled halloumi and A basic appearance and oblique
soupiórizo (cuttlefish rice) jazzed sea views mean few tourists. NISYROS: Limenari €
up with ouzo, chilli and parsley. Traditional Taverna
LEROS: Dimittris O Karaflas €€ Limenári cove, west of Pálli
KOS: Palaia Pigi € Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí Tel 22420 31023
Traditional Taverna Spiliá district, on the road between This secluded taverna attracts
Pigí district, Pylí village Vromólithos and Pandélli islanders thanks to well-priced
Tel 22420 41510 Closed Oct–Apr Tel 22470 25626 caper-topped salads, delicious
Enjoy flawless, simple fare under Savour sizeable portions of hearty grilled fish and a few daily
a giant ficus, overlooking a bird- food including chunky Lerian mageireftá, such as papoutsáki
filled oasis watered by a spring. sausages, potato salad and goat’s (aubergines stuffed with mince).
Try the sausages, marinated cheese along with great views The setting is lovely and over-
sardines and fresh bakaliáros. over Vromólithos Bay at this eatery. looks the bay.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp320–323
334 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SIFNOS: Leonidas €€
Traditional Taverna
Ouskirts of the inner citadel,
Kástro
Tel 22840 31153 Closed Oct–Easter
Signature dishes at this restaurant
include moussaka, warm fáva with
onions, baby tomatoes and capers,
lamb, pork with mustard sauce,
rabbit stew and shrimp spaghetti.
SYROS: Iliovassilema €€
Creative Greek
Beach, Galissás
Tel 22810 43325 Closed mid-Oct–
Apr
The best taverna in this popular
resort offers imaginative versions
of island staples such as A traditional restaurant on the shore of Chaniá, Crete
marathópitta (fennel pie), prawns
served with barley, and suitable AGKATHIAS: Agkistri IRAKLEIO: Avli
crunchy atherína (sand smelt). N O Psaras €€ tou Defkaliona €
Seafood Cretan
SYROS: Oneiro €€€ Village centre, 3 km (2 miles) Lisimachou Kalokerinou 8, behind
Creative Greek southeast of Palaíkastro Historical Museum
Vardáka Square, Ermoúpoli Tel 28430 61598 Tel 28102 44215 Closed Sun
Tel 22810 79416 The freshest fish in eastern Crete This is the best spot in town for
Oneiro, which means ‘dream’ in is delivered daily from the family Cretan home-style cooking. After a
Greek, is located opposite the boat, while the brother-and-sister warm welcome from the owners,
Apollo Theatre. The food is made team grill and serve, respectively. lucky diners grab a sought-after
with fresh local ingredients and Enjoy the great views while dining. terrace table by a medieval
includes salads, succulent meats, fountain. When the mood strikes,
and flavourful mageireftá. The CHANIA: Kalamoti € accordions and guitars come out.
signature dish is moussaka made Traditional Taverna
with Syros sausage. Venizélou 142, Halépa district, just IRAKLEIO: Ippokambos €€
east of the old town Mezedopoleío/Ouzerí
TINOS: Katoi €€ Tel 28210 59198 Sofoklí Venizélou 3 (seafront)
Grill This popular seaside hangout Tel 28102 80240 Closed Sun;
Falatádos village serves generously portioned Dec–Mar
Tel 22830 41000 mageireftá, vegetarian starters This well-regarded mezedopoleío
This carnivore haven in a pretty and seafood. Other highlights overlooking the old Venetian
hill-village offers superior lamb include dolmádes, myzíthra harbour does not accept
chops, pork stuffed with cheese, cheese and grilled cuttlefish, all reservations, so be sure to go
peppers and baby carrots, and accompanied by Cretan retsína. early to beat the crowds.
kokorétsi (spit-roasted roulade Excellent mezédes (including
of lamb offal). snails), fair-priced seafood and
DK Choice winning service. Good bulk wine.
TINOS: Marathia €€€ CHANIA: Ta Halkina €
Seafood Cretan LERAPETRA: Levante €€
Agios Fokás beach Aktí Tompázi 29–30, Old Port Cretan
Tel 22830 23249 Tel 28210 41570 Stratigoú Samouíl 38 (waterfront)
Marathia serves seafood with a One of only a few good-value, Tel 28420 80585
twist – think scorpion fish with mint old-harbourside spots, the Founded in 1936, this is the most
and basil, and lobster pasta. There popular Ta Halkina excels at venerable of Ierápetra’s seafront,
are also good salads and vegetable local dishes like aubergine castle-view tavernas. On the
starters, and irresistible desserts. roulade, marathópita (fennel menu are dishes like milk-based
pie) and rosemary snails. xýgalo, stuffed cabbage leaves,
Solicitous waiters explain aubergines stuffed with mince
unfamiliar dishes. There are meat and rice-and-offal sausages.
Crete frequent live music sessions. There is also a full seafood list.
SHOPPING IN GREECE
Shopping in the Greek islands can be an outside their houses, and potters can
entertaining pastime, especially when you be found in their workshops. Apart from
buy directly from the producer. This is often these industries, and the food and drink
the case in the smaller villages, where crafts produced locally, most other goods are
are a major source of income. Embroiderers imported to the islands and therefore
and lacemakers can often be seen sitting carry a heavy mark-up.
Leather goods are sold throughout Ornamental ceramics come in many shapes and finishes.
Greece. The bags, backpacks and Traditional earthenware, often simple, functional and
sandals make useful and good- unglazed, is frequently for sale on the outskirts of Athens
value souvenirs. and the larger towns of the islands.
342 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Visitors at the ancient theatre at Delos (see pp228–9) Greek Language Courses
Immersing yourself in a
Archaeological Tours destination for archaeology language is the best and most
For those interested in Greece’s enthusiasts. Its tours include sites enjoyable way to learn. Greek
glorious ancient past, a tour to at Knosós (see pp282–5) and language courses at all levels
some of the famous archae Chaniá (see pp262–3) among are available in Límni on the
ological sites, accompanied by others. History and archaeology island of Evvoia and on Sýros.
qualified archaeologists, can specialist Andante Travels also The courses can be booked
make for a fascinating and operates tours of Minoan Crete through the Greek company
memorable holiday. In addition to the island’s main sites, with of Omilo in Athens, who offer
to visiting ruins, many tours take two specialist guest lecturers a variety of courses from two
in Venetian fortresses, Byzantine accompanying the group. weeks up to eight weeks.
churches, caves, archaeological
museums and monasteries
along the way. Creative Holidays Nature Holidays
Martin Randall Travel organise With their vivid landscapes and The Greek islands are rich in
tours of Minoan Crete, a popular renowned quality of light, the natural beauty, and you need
Greek islands are an inspirational not be a fanatical botanist or
destination for artistic endea ornithologist to enjoy the
vour. Courses in creative writing, stunning wild flowers and
and drawing and painting, variety of birdlife. Spring is
are available at all levels. the best time to explore the
The Skýros Centre (see p126), countryside, when the colourful
on the island of the same name, flowers are in bloom, especially
offers two locations – one at on lush islands such as Corfu
the main town and another at and on mountainous Crete. It is
the remote village of Atsítsa – a good time to see the influx of
for selfdevelopment and migrating birds, which rest and
therapeutic holidays, including feed in Greece on their journeys
themes directed towards writing between Africa and Europe.
and painting as well as yoga. The Hellenic Ornithological
Greeka can help you find the Society details further
right place to take art seminars, information on wild birds and
Visitors at the artificial caves created courses and workshops under their habitats, as well as related
during the Neolithic Age in Mátala, Crete the guidance of local specialists activities and events. Limosa
S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S A N D O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 343
DIRECTORY
Archaeological Simpson Travel Sutton, Alresford SO24 Unicorn Trails
Tours Boat Race House, 61–67 0AA, UK. Tel 01962 737565. 7 Baystrait House, Station
Mortlake High Street, ∑ walksworldwide.com Road, Biggleswade, Beds,
Andante Travels London, SW14 8HL, UK. SG18 8AL, UK.
The Clock Tower, Unit 4 Tel 020 3627 9651. Cruises and Tel 01767 600606.
Oakridge Office Park, ∑ simpsontravel.com Boat Trips ∑ unicorntrails.com
Southampton Road,
Whaddon, SP5 3HT, UK. The Travelling Explore Climbing
Tel 01722 713800. Naturalist (See Walking & Trekking.)
PO Box 3141, Dorchester, Kálymnos Climbing
∑ andantetravels.co.uk
Dorset, DT1 2XD, UK. Hellenic Holidays Festival
Martin Randall Travel Tel 01305 267994. 1501 Broadway, Suite 2004, ∑ climbingfestival.
Voysey House, Barley Mow ∑ naturalist.co.uk New York, NY 10036, USA. kalymnos-isl.gr
Passage, London W4 4GF, Tel 212 944 8288.
UK. Tel 020 8742 3355. Walking and ∑ hellenicholidays.com Golf and Tennis
∑ martinrandall.com Trekking Metro Tours Crete Golf Club
Explore 484 Lowell St, Peabody, MA PO Box 106, 70014
Creative Holidays 01960, USA. Tel 800 221 Chersónisos, Crete.
55 Victoria Road,
Cretan Creative 2810. ∑ metrotours.com Tel 28970 26000.
Farnborough, Hampshire,
∑ cretegolfclub.com
84 Western Drive, GU14 7PA, UK. Odyssey Sailing
Hanslope, Milton Keynes, Tel 01252 883854. Greece Golf Afandou
MK19 7LE, UK. ∑ explore.co.uk Antonopoulo 158D, Afántou Bay, Rhodes. Tel
∑ cretancreative.com 38221 Volos, Greece. 22410 51451. ∑ afandou
Freelance Holidays
Tel 24280 94128. golfcourse.com
Greeka 25 The Waterways, Stratford
Makrigianni 26A, Upon Avon, Warwickshire, ∑ odysseysailing.gr Hellenic Golf
18537 Piraeus, Athens. CV37 0AW, UK. Tel 01789 Star Clippers Federation
Tel 21045 26900. 297705. ∑ freelance- Olympus House, 2 PO Box 70003, Glyfada,
∑ greeka.com holidays.co.uk 16610 Athens. Tel 21089
Olympus Close, Ipswich IP1
45727. ∑ hgf.gr
Yoga Escapes Inntravel 5LN, UK. Tel 0845 200 6145.
57 Gloucester Road, Whitwell Grange, nr Castle ∑ starclippers.co.uk Neilson Active
SW7 4QN, London, UK. Howard, York, YO60 7JU, Holidays
Swan Hellenic Cruises
Tel 020 7584 9432. UK. Tel 01653 617001. Locksview, Brighton
Compass House, Marina, Brighton BN2
∑ yoga-escapes.com ∑ inntravel.co.uk
Rockingham Road, 5HA. Tel 0333 014 3351.
Greek Language Pure Crete Market Harborough, ∑ neilson.co.uk
Courses Bolney Place, Cowfold Leics LE16 7QD, UK.
Road, Haywards Heath, Tel 01858 897897. Porto Elounda Resort
Omilo W. Sussex RH17 5QT, UK. ∑ swanhellenic.com Elounda, Crete 72053.
Pan. Tsaldari 13, 15122 Tel 01444 880404. Tel 28410 68000.
Travelsphere ∑ portoelounda.com
Maroussi, Athens. ∑ purecrete.com
Tel 21061 22896. (See Walking & Trekking.)
Ramblers Holidays Your Golf Travel
∑ omilo.com Voyages of Discovery Clerks Court, 18–20 Farring
Lemsford Mill, Lemsford
Compass House, don Lane, London EC1R
Nature Holidays Village, Welwyn Garden
Rockingham Road, 3AU, UK. Tel 0800 043 6644.
City, Herts, AL8 7TR, UK.
Market Harborough, Leics ∑ yourgolftravel.com
Hellenic Ornitho Tel 01707 331133.
LE16 7QD, UK. Tel 01858
logical Society ∑ ramblersholidays.
co.uk 897122. ∑ voyagesof Naturism
Themistokleous 80,
discovery.co.uk
10681 Athens. Travelsphere Vritomartis Hotel
Tel 21082 27937. Chora Sfakion, Crete.
Compªss House, Cycling and Tel 282 509 1112.
∑ ornithologiki.gr Rockingham Road, Mopeds ∑ vritomartis.gr
Honeyguide Wildlife Market Harborough,
Leicestershire, LE16 7QD, Explore
Holidays Food and Wine
UK. Tel 01858 897116. (See Walking & Trekking.)
36 Thunder Lane, Thorpe
∑ travelsphere.co.uk Arblaster and Clarke
St Andrew, Norwich NR7 Simpson Travel
0PX, UK. Tel 01603 300552. Trekking Hellas (See Nature Holidays.) Cedar Court, 5 College St,
∑ honeyguide.co.uk Dim. Gounari 96 St, 15125 Petersfield, Hants, GU31
Horse Riding 4AE, UK. Tel 01730 263111.
Marousi, Attikí, Athens.
Limosa Holidays ∑ winetours.co.uk
Tel 210 331 0323.
West End Farmhouse, Equitours
Chapelfield, Stalham,
∑ trekking.gr Pure Crete
10 Stalnaker Street,
(See Walking and Trekking.)
Norfolk, NR12 9EJ, UK. Walks Worldwide Dubois, Wyoming 82513,
Tel 01692 580623. Long Barn South, Sutton USA. Tel 1800 545 0019. Simpson Travel
∑ limosaholidays.co.uk Manor Farm, Bishop’s ∑ equitours.com (See Nature Holidays.)
346 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Water Sports
With so much coastline, facilities
Holiday company flags flying on “Golden Beach”, Páros catering for water sports are
numerous. Windsurfing (see p22)
Beaches compensation, they often have has become very popular, and
Beaches vary greatly in the Greek very clear seas, which can be waters recommended for this
islands, offering everything from good for snorkelling. include those around Corfu,
shingle and volcanic rock to Any beach with a Blue Flag Lefkáda and Zákynthos in
gravel and fine sand. For a (awarded annually by the the Ionian islands, Lésvos
selection of some of the best Hellenic Society for the and Sámos in the Northeast
beaches see pages 16–17. The Protection of Nature, in con- Aegean, Kos in the Dodecanese,
Cyclades and Ionian Islands are junction with the European Náxos in the Cyclades and
where the sandy beaches tend Union) is guaranteed to have the coast around Crete.
to be, and of these the best are its water tested every 15 days The Hellenic Water-ski
usually on the south of the for cleanliness and purity, as Federation can offer the best
islands. Crete’s beaches are also well as meeting over a dozen advice. For a little more money
mostly sandy, but not exclus- other environmental criteria. you could take up water-skiing
ively. The Northeast Aegean, These beaches tend to be
Dodecanese and Sporades are among the best, and safest for
a mixture of sandy and pebbly children, though they can be
beaches. Some islets, such as very crowded.
Chálki and Kastellórizo, have Also worth trying out are
few or no beaches at all. But, in beaches recommended in the
headings for each entry in this
guide. Occasionally the main
beach near the port of an
island is run by the EOT (Greek
Tourist Office). There will be
a charge for its use, but it will
be kept clean and often have
the added benefit of showers.
Topless bathing is widespread,
though nude bathing is still
officially forbidden, except on
a few designated beaches; it is
A snorkeler in the clear waters near off the never allowed within sight of Holiday-makers learning the skills of
coast of Loutrá, Kýthnos a church. windsurfing in coastal waters
B E A C H E S A N D WAT E R S P O R T S 347
DIRECTORY
Water Sports Sailing Holidays Hellenic Sailing Canterbury, Kent
Federation CT3 1EB, England.
Hellenic Water-ski Greek Professional Marina Dimou Kallitheas, Tel 01227 721874.
Federation and Bareboat Yacht 17602 Athens. Tel 21094 ∑ tenrag.com
Alexandrias 19, 16342
Owners’ Association 04825. ∑ eio.gr
Athens. Thomas Cook
Alimos Marina, Alimos,
Tel 21099 44014. Sunsail Holidays
17455 Athens. Tel 21098 St Marks Hill, Surbiton,
∑ waterski.gr Tel 01733 224808.
41531. ∑ sitesap.gr Surrey, KT6 4BH, UK. ∑ thomascook.com
Scuba Diving Greek Yacht Brokers’ Tel 02392 222222.
and Snorkelling and Consultants’ ∑ sunsail.co.uk Variety Cruises
Syngrou 214–216,
Professional Association Tenrag Yacht
Association of Diving Marina Zeas, 18536 17672 Athens.
Charters
Instructors (PADI®) Piraeus. Tel 21045 33134. Tenrag House, Freepost Tel 21069 19191.
∑ padi.com ∑ hyba.gr CU986, Preston, ∑ varietycruises.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Greece’s appeal is both cultural and things go wrong – to avoid unnecessary
hedonistic. The islands’ physical beauty, frustrations. Greece is no longer the cheap
hot climate and warm seas, together holiday destination it once was, though
with the easy-going outlook of the Greek public transport, vehicle hire, eating out
people, are all conducive to a relaxing and hotel accommodation are still fairly
holiday. It is beneficial, however, to know inexpensive compared to most Western
something about the practicalities of European countries. The numerous tourist
Greek life – when to visit, what to bring, offices (see p353) offer information on
how to get around and what to do if all the practical aspects of your stay.
Boats sailing in the bay of Pórto Katsíki on the west coast of Lefkáda in high summer Tourist Information
Tourist information is available in
When to Go stay for EU visitors). For longer many towns and villages in the
High season – from late June to stays, a resident’s permit must form of government-run EOT
early September – is the hottest be obtained from the Aliens’ offices (Ellinikós Organismós
and most expensive time to visit Bureau in Athens or the local Tourismoú, also often referred
the Greek islands, as well as police in the islands’ main to as the Greek National
being very crowded. December towns. Visitors should check visa Tourism Organization, GNTO),
to March are the coldest and requirements with their local municipal tourist offices, the
wettest months, with reduced Greek embassy before travelling. local tourist police (see p354) or
public transport and many Any non-EU citizen planning travel agencies. Many of these
hotels and restaurants closed to work or study in Greece should offices operate only in summer.
throughout the winter. contact their local Greek consu- The GNTO publishes an array of
Spring (from late April to May) late about visas and work permits. tourist literature and brochures,
is one of the loveliest times to but be aware that not all of this
visit the islands – the weather is information is always up to date
sunny but not debilitatingly hot, Travel Safety Advice or reliable.
there are relatively few tourists Visitors can get up-to-date The addresses and phone
about, and the countryside is travel safety information from numbers of the GNTO and
ablaze with brightly coloured the State Department in the municipal tourist offices are
wild flowers. US, the Foreign and Common listed throughout this guide.
wealth Office in the UK and A list of major Greek festivals
the Department of Foreign and cultural events is given on
Visas and Passports Affairs and Trade in Australia. pages 56–60, but it is also worth
Visitors from EU countries need asking your nearest tourist office
a valid passport or ID card to about what is happening locally.
enter Greece, but do not need a Customs Information
visa. UK citizens need a passport. EU residents can import
Some non-EU citizens such as unlimited alcohol, perfumes Admission Prices
those from the US, Canada, and tobacco so long as they Most state-run museums and
Australia and New Zealand, do are for personal use. Visitors archaeological sites charge
not need a visa, but do need a entering Greece from non-EU an entrance fee of €3–€12.
valid passport for a stay of up to countries should check the However, visitors aged 18 or
90 days (there is no maximum following website for details of under from EU countries are
A beautiful wooden yacht in the port of Póthia, Kálymnos
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 351
sources. Greece has great Crete, and is becoming Irákleio, Crete and Kumquat
potential for developing solar increasingly so on the Ionian liqueur in Corfu town – and visit
energy – many families already islands, especially Corfu, but is vineyards for wine tastings and
have solar panels for heating slow to develop on the other direct purchases.
water (they can sell the surplus islands. Contact the Hellenic Ethical tour operators include
to the National Grid), and Agrotourism Federation or the UKbased Responsible
there have been talks about Guest Inn for a list of agro Travel and the Athensbased
producing solar power on a tourism establishments. Trekking Hellas; both run
far larger scale. Wind energy is Visitors can support local adventure sports packages
already used to some extent communities by shopping for including activities such as
on the islands, but here too local produce at the local hiking, mountain biking, sea
there is potential for markets held in all major towns kayaking and rafting. The
further exploitation. throughout the islands (see Athensbased Ecotourism
Agrotourism (working p340). In some areas, you can Greece is a useful source of
farms that offer accommodation buy local specialities directly ideas for rural destinations,
and meals to visitors) has from the producers – for activities and small family
become well established on example, Omalós honey in run hotels.
DIRECTORY
Visas and United Kingdom GNTO Kos Student
Passports Ploutárchou 1, 10675 Artemisias 2, Kos. Travellers
Athens. Tel 22420 29910.
Aliens’ Bureau Hostelling
Tel 21072 72600. GNTO Lefkáda
Petrou Ralli 24, International
Tavros, 17778 Athens. Crete: Thalita 17, Irákleio, Lefkáda Marina, Lefkáda. 2nd Floor, Gate House,
Tel 21034 05828. Crete. Tel 28102 24012. Tel 26450 25292. Fretherne Road, Welwyn
Corfu: Mantzarou 18,
GNTO Réthymno Garden City, Herts AL8
Travel Safety Corfu. Tel 26610 30055.
6RD, UK.
Eleftheriou Venizelou
Advice United States Tel 01707 324170.
Paralia Rethymnou, 74100
Australia Vasilíssis Sofías 91, Réthymno. ∑ hihostels.com
Department of Foreign 10160 Athens. Tel 28310 29148.
International Student
Affairs and Trade. Tel 21072 12951.
GNTO Rhodes Identity Card (ISIC)
∑ dfat.gov.au
Papagou and ∑ isic.org
∑ smartraveller.gov.au Tourist
Archiepiskopou Makariou,
UK
Information STA Travel
85131 Rhodes.
Foreign and Common
Offices Tel 22410 44330. 52 Grosvenor Gardens,
wealth Office. ∑ gov.uk/ London SW1W 0AG, UK.
Greek National GNTO Santoríni
foreign-travel-advice Tel 0871 702 9849.
Tourism Organization Fira, Santoríni. ∑ statravel.co.uk
US (GNTO) Tel 22860 27199.
US Department of State. Head office: Tsoha 7, Responsible
∑ travel.state.gov 11521 Athens.
GNTO Sỳros
Folegandrou 4, Tourism
Tel 21087 07000.
Embassies Sỳros.
∑ visitgreece.gr Ecotourism Greece
Tel 22810 86725.
Information centre: Tel 21171 00050.
Australia
Level 6, Thon Building, Dionysiou Areopagitou Travellers with ∑ ecotourism-greece.
Kifissias & Alexandrias 18–20, 11742 Athens. Disabilities com
Avenue, Ambelokipi, Tel 21033 10529.
Guest Inn
11523 Athens. Accessible Travel
GNTO Chaniá Tel 21096 07100.
Tel 21087 04000. and Leisure
Kriari street 40, Pantheon ∑ guestinn.com
Tel 01452 729739.
Canada Mansion, 73100 Chaniá. ∑ accessibletravel. Hellenic Agrotourism
Ethnikis Antistaseos 48, Tel 28210 92943. co.uk Federation (SEAGE)
15231 Chalandrí, Athens.
GNTO Chíos Disability Rights UK Tel 69365 00670.
Tel 21072 73400.
Kanari 18, Chíos. Tel 020 7250 8181. ∑ agroxenia.net
Ireland Tel 22710 24442. ∑ radar.org.uk
Vassiléos Konstantínou 7, Responsible Travel
10674 Athens. GNTO Corfu Responsible Travel (See Travellers with
Tel 21072 32771. Evangelistrías 4, Corfu. Tel 01273 823700. Disabilities.)
Tel 26610 37520. ∑ responsibletravel.
New Zealand Trekking Hellas
GNTO Crete com Dim. Gounari 96 St, 15125
(Consulate)
Kifissias 76, Ambelokipi, Aleksandrou E’ 16, 71202 Tourism for All Marousi, Attikí, Athens.
11526 Athens. Irákleio. Tel 01539 726111. Tel 21033 10323.
Tel 21069 24136. Tel 28102 46106. ∑ tourismforall.org.uk ∑ trekking.gr
354 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Lost Credit Cards
American Express
Tel 00 44 1273 696 933.
MasterCard
Tel 0800 964 767.
VISA
Tel 00 800 891 725.
Queueing up to use an ATM
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 357
The Euro members using the euro as sole designs of fictional architectural
The euro (€) is the common official currency are known as structures and monuments. The
currency of the European Union. the Eurozone. Several EU coins have one side identical
It went into general circulation members have opted out of (the value side), and one side
on 1 January 2002, initially for 12 joining this common currency. with an image unique to each
participating countries, including Euro notes are identical country. Both notes and coins
Greece. The Greek drachma was throughout the Eurozone are exchangeable in each of the
phased out in March 2002. EU countries, each one including Eurozone countries.
Bank notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by the
€10 note (pink), €20 note (blue), €50
note (orange), €100 note (green), €200
note (yellow) and €500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of the 5 euros
European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and
€1; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver and
gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
358 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Reliably hot, sunny weather makes Greece a Most ferries depart from the port of Piraeus.
popular holiday destination. From mid-May Travelling around by car or motorcycle offers
to early October, countless visitors flock to the most flexibility on larger islands, allowing
the Greek islands. While many of the larger travellers to reach places that are inaccessible
islands have their own airports and are easily by public transport. However, road conditions
accessible by plane from major European are variable, and in remoter parts can be
destinations, the ferry network ensures even rough and dangerous. Taxis provide another
the remotest islands are easy to reach. The inexpensive option, and on many islands taxi
extensive bus network has frequent services boats sail around the coast offering various
on major routes and also serves rural pick-up and drop-off points. Strikes (a regular
communities. It is also possible to reach occurrence in Greece) can cause disruption
Greece by car, rail and coach, or to fly into to public transport both to and within
Athens, travelling on to the islands by ferry. the country.
Transport from
Athens Airport
Metro line 3 (blue line) links
the airport to Sýntagma and
Monastiráki in the city centre
every 30 minutes from 6:33am
until 11:33pm, while the
Proastiakos suburban rail service
runs from 5:26am until 9:44pm
from the airport to Ano Liosia
just north of Athens (every 20
minutes), and to Kiato (every
hour). From these it is possible
to connect to the rest of the
suburban or intercity rail
network. Tickets for both metro
Light and spacious check-in area at Athens International Airport and suburban rail journeys from
the airport to the city centre cost
five flight routes daily from that of the city centre, the airport €10 (single) and €18 (return).
part of the world that involve handles the majority of Greece’s Visitors who prefer to use road
changing to a connecting flight international and domestic transport (for those arriving or
at hubs in the Middle East. flights, as well as all of Athens’ departing between 11:30pm
passenger and cargo flights. It and 5:30am this is the only
has two runways, designed for option), can take a bus, a taxi or
Charter Flights and simultaneous, round-the-clock a hired car. The X95 bus runs
Package Deals operation, and a Main Terminal from the airport to Sýntagma
Charter flights to Greece are Building for all arrivals and Square, in the city centre, every
nearly all from within Europe, departures. Arrivals are located 10–15 minutes (journey time:
and mostly operate between on the ground floor (Level 0) about 70 minutes). Bus X96 runs
the months of May and October. and departures on the first floor to Piraeus port every 20–25
They are usually the cheapest (Level 1). Passengers are advised minutes (journey time: about 90
option during peak season (July to check in as early as possible minutes). Bus X93 runs to Kifisos
to August), when air fares rise and to contact their airline and Liosion intercity bus
steeply, though discounted in advance to find out the stations in Athens every 25–30
scheduled flights are worth recommended time to arrive minutes (journey time: about 65
considering in low season, when at the airport for their flight. minutes). Bus X97 runs to
there are few charters available. Service facilities include a Ηelliniko metro station every
Tickets are sold through airline shopping mall, restaurants and 45–60 minutes (journey time:
websites and, to a lesser extent, cafés in the Main Terminal about 70 minutes). All four
by travel agencies either as part Building and a five-star Sofitel buses run 24 hours a day, and a
of an all-inclusive package hotel in the airport complex. Car- single ticket costs €6. A taxi ride
holiday or as a flight-only deal. rental firms, bureaux de change, to the centre of Athens costs
Companies operating charter banks and travel agencies are all €35 by day and €50 by night
flights to the islands, especially to in the arrivals area. There is also (fixed prices). A six-lane toll
Crete, Corfu, Kefalloniá, Mykonos, a small museum in the Main motorway links the airport to
Santoríni, Zákynthos and Rhodes, Terminal Building (departures) the Athens ring road. Several
from the UK throughout the with archaeological findings car hire companies are also
summer, are Thomson Airways from digs in the airport area. based at the airport.
and Thomas Cook.
Some real bargains can
be found by buying tickets
through price comparison
websites such as Kayak,
Momondo and Skyscanner.
Athens Airport
Greece’s largest, most prestigious
infrastructure development
project for the millennium,
Elefthérios Venizélos – Athens
International Airport opened
to air traffic in 2001. Located at
Spata, 27 km (17 miles) southeast A typical bus serving Athens International Airport
362 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Island Airports Airport, which is located less Airport, which is less than 5 km
Crete has two international than 2 km (1 mile) from Corfu (3 miles) from Zákynthos town.
airports – Nikos Kazantzakis at town centre. It is served by Taxis cost around €6.
Irákleio, located just 5 km (3 miles) regular buses and taxis from In the Dodecanese, Ippokratis
from the city centre, and Ioannis the rank right outside the International Airport serves the
Daskalogiannis Airport in Chaniá, terminal. Corfu’s fellow Ionian island of Kos. A compact airport,
which is situated around 15 km (9 island Kefalloniá has its own it lies 27 km (17 miles) from Kos
miles) northwest of the city. KTEL international airport, which town. KTEL buses from outside
buses and taxis run from outside is situated 8 km (5 miles) from the arrivals exit make the 40-
the terminal to Chaniá’s main the centre of the principal town minute journey into Kos town
square, with the journey taking of Argostóli. The best way to centre, with a ticket costing
about 45 minutes. Siteía also reach central Argostóli is by taxi. €3.20. Taxis charge around
has a smaller domestic airport. The fare should cost around €25–€27 for the same journey.
Corfu is served by Ioannis €15. Zákynthos is served by Rhodes is served by Rodos
Kapodistrias International Dionỳsios Solomós International Diagoras International Airport.
Kavála
Alexandroúpoli
Thessaloníki
Kastoriá
Kozání
Ioánnina Límnos
Corfu
Skiáthos
Mytilíni
Préveza Skýros
Kefalloniá
ATHENS Chíos
Ikaría Sámos
Zákynthos
Sýros Mýkonos
Páros Leros
Kalamáta Náxos Kalymnos
Kos
Mílos
Astypálaia
Kýthira Rhodes
Santoríni
Kárpathos
Key Chaniá
Kásos
Air route Irákleio Siteía
381 km 318 km
Corfu 40 minutes Crete (Chaniá) 45 minutes
(237 miles) (198 miles)
426 km 228 km
Rhodes 45 minutes Santoríni 40 minutes
(265 miles) (142 miles)
324 km
Skýros 128 km (80 miles) 40 minutes Kos 45 minutes
(201 miles)
153 km
Skiáthos 135 km (84 miles) 30 minutes Mýkonos 30 minutes
(95 miles)
252 km 157 km
Límnos 45 minutes Páros 35 minutes
(157 miles) (98 miles)
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Alitalia US Airways Domestic and
Tel 21099 88888. ∑ aa.com Connecting
Aegean Airlines
∑ alitalia.com Flights
Viltanioti 31, 14564 Charter Flights
Athens. British Airways and Package Aegean Airlines
Tel 21062 61000. PO Box 286118, Deals (See Arriving by Air.)
∑ aegeanair.com 28361 Bremen, Germany.
Thomas Cook Astra Airlines
Aer Lingus Tel 00800 4414 3767. ∑ thomascook.com 12 km Thessaloníki
Tel 18908 00600. ∑ britishairways.com
Thomson Airways Moudania Road/
∑ aerlingus.com
Delta ∑ thomson.co.uk Airport Area,
Air Canada Megalou Alexandrou 7 & GR 57001
PO Box 446, Feltham, Karaiskaki, 16452 Athens. Flight Comparison PO Box 608 04,
Middx TW13 9DZ, UK. Tel 21099 80444.
Websites
Thermi Thessaloníki.
Tel 0871 220 1111.
∑ delta.com Kayak Tel 23104 89390.
∑ aircanada.ca
∑ kayak.co.uk ∑ astra-airlines.gr
easyJet
Air China Momondo
Tel 21119 80013. Makedonia-
214 Singrou Avenue, ∑ momondo.com
17672 Athens. ∑ easyjet.com Thessaloníki
Tel 21072 20630. Skyscanner Airport
Finnair
∑ airchina.com ∑ skyscanner.net PO Box 22605,
Tel 21093 41500.
55103 Kalamaria,
Air France ∑ finnair.com Athens Airport Thessaloníki.
Patroklou 1,15125
KLM Royal Dutch Elefthérios Venizélos Tel 23109 85000.
Maroussi, Athens.
Tel 21118 09474. Airlines – Athens ∑ thessaloniki
∑ airfrance.com Tel 21118 09473. International Airport airport.com
∑ klm.com 5th km Spata-Loutsa Ave,
Air Transat 19019 Spata. Olympic Air
Tel 020 7616 9180. Ryanair Tel 21035 30000. Tel 21035 50500.
∑ airtransat.com ∑ ryanair.com ∑ aia.gr ∑ olympicair.com
364 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Ferry Tickets
Tickets for all ferry journeys
can be purchased from the
A Minoan Lines ferry leaving a port shipping line office, any
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 365
Tel 14541.
OU
IA
U
M
O
NI
I
KT
KH
A
TE
Argo-Saronic Islands
O
O
MAR
IR
KOU
YRLA
TZIK
Dodecanese CHA
H AT
SAKH
Z IK Y
Cyclades
TOUR
R LA K
Crete
I
OU
International ferries
Hydrofoils and catamarans
CORFU
LIMNOS
PAXOS
Préveza TURKEY
Vólos
Amfilochía SKIATHOS
LEFKADA ALONNISOS
Kymi
KEFALLONIA EVVOIA
Agíos
Ioánnis Alivéri
ZAKYNTHOS CHIOS
Marmári
Piraeus Rafína Kárystos
ANDROS SAMOS
AIGINA
Key
TINOS IKARIA
KEA
Ionian Islands POROS
HYDRA SYROS
MYKONOS
ArgoSaronic Islands
KYTHNOS PATMOS
Sporades and Evvoia SPETSES LEROS
PAROS NAXOS
Northeast Aegean Islands SERIFOS KALYMNOS
KOUFONISSI
SIFNOS
Dodecanese SIKINOS
MILOS AMORGOS KOS SYMI
IOS
Cyclades FOLEGANDROS NISYROS
ASTYPALAIA
Catamaran route TILOS
KYTHIRA SANTORINI
Hydrofoil route CHALKI
RHODES
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 367
Seaplanes
Hellenic Seaplanes S.A. are
planning to introduce the first
network of waterways to
connect all the Greek islands and
coastal ports throughout Greece.
Besides being faster than
ferries, seaplanes can also fly in
almost all weather conditions.
The first waterway between the
ports of Corfu and Piraeus was
due to open in summer 2016,
but this was delayed due to An excursion caïque on the Dodecanese island of Sými
potential regulation changes.
However, plans to construct are subject to government price DIRECTORY
many more water airports have controls, but boats chartered
been approved, so gradually the by tourist agencies can charge Arriving by Sea
network will grow and the first what they like, and often prove
Minoan
routes should be operational expensive. It is therefore worth 25th August Street 17, 71202
before 2018. As well as num- doing some research locally Irákleio, Crete. Tel 80111 75000.
erous scheduled flights, Hellenic on the various options before ∑ minoan.gr
Seaplanes S.A. will also provide purchasing a ticket. These boats
sightseeing tours over the Greek do, however, provide direct Superfast
Islands and offer a variety of connections to the islands, Lysikratous & Evripidou St 1–7,
excursion packages. 17674, Kallithéa, Athens.
which shortcut circuitous routes
Tel 21089 19700.
via mainland ports, saving you
∑ superfast.com
valuable holiday time.
Tourist Excursions
UK and US Agents
Many holiday resorts put on
small excursion boats that Taxi Boats Hellenic Holidays
take groups of tourists to out- Taxi boats (or caïques) are even 1501 Broadway, Suite 2004,
of-the-way beaches and caves, more ad hoc, sailing along New York, NY 10036.
or on day cruises and picnics. coastlines and making short trips Tel (212) 944-8288.
Routes and times are dictated between adjacent islands. They ∑ hellenicholidays.com
by local conditions. Up-to-date are usually only available during Viamare Travel Ltd
information and booking high season and, as the smallest Suite 108, 582 Honeypot Lane,
arrangements are available on vessels, are most prone to Stanmore, Middx HA7 1JS, UK.
arrival in the islands at the resort cancellation in adverse sea Tel 020 8206 3420.
or any local travel agency or conditions. They tend to be more ∑ viamare.com
information centre. expensive than ferries, given the
short distances involved, but Greek Ferry Services
often provide a route where
Local Inter-Island Ferries Blue Star Ferries
few or no others are available. Lysikratous & Evripidou St 1–7,
In addition to the large ferries Routes and itineraries are 17674, Kallithéa, Athens.
that cover the main routes, there at the discretion of the boat Tel 21089 19800.
are smaller ferries making inter- owners, and the only place to ∑ bluestarferries.com
island crossings in the summer. determine if one is going your
Local ferries, regardless of size, way is at the quayside. Hydrofoils and
Catamarans
Dodekanisos Seaways
Australias 3, 85100 Rhodes.
Tel 22410 70590. ∑ 12ne.gr
Hellenic Seaways
Astiggos 6, Karaiskaki Square, 18531
Piraeus. Tel 21041 99000 (booking
line). ∑ hellenicseaways.gr
Seaplanes
Hellenic Seaways
Alexandras Avenue 192A, 11521
Athens. Tel 21064 01030.
∑ hellenic-seaplanes.com
An inter-island ferry run by one of the main companies
368 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
You have You have right Rules of the Road Motorcycle, Moped and
priority of way Driving is on the right in Greece Bicycle Rental
and, with the exception of some Motorcycles and mopeds are
rural backroads, road signs readily available to rent on the
conform to European norms. islands. The latter are ideal for
The speed limit on national short distances on flattish terrain,
highways is 120 km/h (75 mph) but for anything mountainous
for cars; on country roads it is a motorcycle is a must. Make
90 km/h (55 mph) and in towns sure that the vehicle is in good
Do not use car Wild animals 50 km/h (30 mph). Seat belts condition before you set out and
horn crossing are required by law and children that the price includes adequate
under ten are not allowed in insurance cover; also check that
the front seat. your own travel insurance
Note that the maximum blood covers motorcycle accidents,
alcohol level in Greece is 0.5 per as many do not.
mil, much lower than in the UK. The speed limit on national
highways is 70 km/h (45 mph)
Hairpin bend Roundabout for bikes up to 100 cc, and
ahead (traffic circle) Car Hire 90 km/h (55 mph) for larger
Scores of carrental agencies in bikes; helmets are compulsory.
Arrving by Car all main resorts offer a range of Bicycles can also be rented in
The most direct overland vehicles from small cars to mini some resorts, though the steep
routes to Greece are through buses. International companies mountainous terrain and hot
the countries that made up the such as Avis and Budget tend sun can be deterrents to even
former Yugoslavia. However, road to be considerably more the toughest enthusiast.
quality is poor through some expensive than their local Bicycles can, however, be
parts of this route. The alter counterparts, though the latter transported free on most Greek
native route is through France, are generally as reliable. Third ferries and buses.
Switzerland and Italy, and from party is the minimum insurance
there to Greece by ferry. Once on required by law, but personal
mainland Greece, you can drive accident insurance is strongly
your vehicle aboard one of the recommended. A full licence
car ferries that travel between that has been held for at least
the islands. There is only one one year is needed, and the
island that can be accessed by minimum age requirement
road: Lefkáda in the Ionian island ranges from 21 to 25 years.
group. It is possible to drive
across the causeway and floating
bridge from the mainland to Petrol
Lefkáda town, where you can Petrol stations are plentiful in
pick up the coastal road for towns, though less so in rural
onward travel around the island. areas – always set out with a full
Motoring organizations, such tank, to be on the safe side. Fuel
as the AA, RAC or ELPA (the is sold by the litre in Greece and
Automobile and Touring Club of is expensive. There are usually Bicycles parked by the beach in
Greece), offer advice on routes three or four grades available: Kos town
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 369
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Car
AA
Tel 0800 887 766 (UK).
∑ theaa.com
ELPA
Mesogeíon 395, 15343 Athens.
Tel 21060 68800.
Tel 10400 (road assistance).
RAC
Tel 0330 159 1111.
∑ rac.co.uk
Passengers boarding a local bus at Irákleio bus station, Crete Car Hire
Avis
Coaches and Buses to the nearest euro as a tip. V Georgiou 50A, 15233
International buses connect For longer journeys, a price can Chalandrí, Athens.
Greece with the rest of Europe, usually be negotiated per day, Tel 80150 05555.
though fares are not as cheap or per trip. Drivers are generally ∑ avis.gr
as charter flights during the amenable to dropping you off Budget
holiday season. and picking you up a few hours Metaxa 29, 16674 Athens.
Greece’s domestic bus later. Most rural villages have at Tel 21302 13120.
system is operated by KTEL least one taxi, and the best ∑ budget.gr
(Koinó Tameío Eispráxeon place to arrange for one is at
Leoforeíon), a syndicate of the local kafeneío (café). Taxi Coaches and Buses
privately run companies that trucks often take several
provides almost every com- passengers, each paying for Bus terminals in Athens
Terminal A: Kifisoú 100
munity with services of some their part of the journey.
Tel 21051 24910/32601.
sort. In remote rural villages
Terminal B: Liosíon 260
the bus might call once or Tel 21083 17173.
twice a day, usually at the Trains
local taverna or kafeneío, Due to Greece’s ailing economy, KTEL
while services between the Greek train services to and Tel 14505.
larger towns are frequent and from the country are limited.
efficient. You can also usually The route into neighbouring
Trains
rely on there being a bus Bulgaria resumed in 2014; Athens Train Station –
service between the port however, the long-established Trainose
and main town of any island, direct service to Turkey remains (information & reservations)
if the latter is inland. suspended until further notice. Laríssis station.
On many of the larger islands Within Greece, the train Tel 14511 (train timetable).
travel agents offer a wide range network is run by the OSE ∑ trainose.gr
of excursions on air-conditioned (Organismós Sidirodrómon OSE (information &
coaches, accompanied by Elládos). The system is restricted reservations)
qualified guides. These include to the mainland, but there is a Karólou 1, Athens.
trips to major archaeological useful route out of Athens to Tel 21052 97865.
and historical sites, other towns Vólos for ferries to Skiáthos ∑ ose.gr
and resorts, popular beaches, and Skópelos.
areas for established walks, such
as the Samariá Gorge in Crete,
and organized events, such as
an evening out in a “typical
Greek taverna”.
Taxis
Taxis provide a very reasonably
priced way of getting around
on the islands. Although all
taxis are metered, it is worth
asking the driver to give you a
rough idea of the price before
setting out. Round up the fare A row of taxis parked on a road by the harbour, Sámos
370 GENERAL INDEX
Index
A Agios Geórgios bay Aígina town 106–7
Achaia 46 (Folégandros) 245 Aigisthos 67
Achílleion Palace (Corfu) 14, Agios Geórgios beach (Crete) Air travel 305, 360–63
83, 93 283 arriving by air 360–61
Achilles 66–7, 93, 151 Agios Geórgios (Crete) 287 Athens Airport 361
Acropolis (Athens) 12, 70, 293, Agios Geórgios (Náxos) 240 charter flights and package
298–300 Agios Geórgios (St George’s deals 361
Acropolis (Górtys, Crete) 275 Day) 57 domestic and connecting
Acropolis (Líndos, Rhodes) 189, Agios Geórgios (Santoríni) 17 flights 363
191, 206–7 Agios Ioánnis (St John’s Day) 58 fares 363
Actium, Battle of 46 Agios Ioánnis (Skiáthos) 119 flight connections within
Adam, Sir Frederick 87, 89 Agios Ioánnis beach (Skópelos) Greece map 362
Adámas (Mílos) 247 120–21 island airports 362–3
Admission prices 350–51 Agios Kírykos (Ikaría) 163 Aíthona valley (Rhodes) 204
Adoration of the Magi (icon) 301 Agios Konstantínos kai Agía Akarnanians 95
Adrína (Skópelos) 123 Eléni 57 Akroteria (gable ends) 71
Aegean Sea 34–5 Agios Nikítas (Lefkáda) 21, 95 Akrotíri (Santoríni) 215, 249, 251
Aegiáli (Amorgós) 21 Agios Nikódimos (Náxos town) Akrotíri Peninsula (Crete) 13, 261
Aeschines 201 58 Albania 31, 51, 90
Aeschylus 42, 69 Agios Nikólaos (Aígina) 103 Albanian Christians 27, 110, 128
Afántou (Rhodes) 205 Agios Nikólaos (Crete) 13, 255, Alcaeus 68
Agáli (Folégandros) 245 257, 288 Alcman 68
Agamemnon 39, 66, 67, 97, 296 hotels 318 Alexander the Great 37, 43,
Agathopés beach (Sýros) 233 restaurants 337 44–5, 206
Agía Anna (Náxos) 240 Agios Nikólaos (festival) 60 Alexios I Comnenos, Emperor
Agía Eiríni archaeological site Agios Nikólaos (Folégandros) 175, 243
(Kéa) 233 245 Ali Pasha 51
Agía Eiríni Gorge (Crete) 261 Agios Nikólaos (Salamína) 106 Alikianos (Crete) 21
Agía Galíni (Crete) 13, 256, 273 Agios Nikólaos (Sými) 189 Alimiá (off Chálki) 209
Agía Marína (festival) 58 Agios Nikólaos (Zákynthos) 14, Álinda (Léros) 177
Agía Marína (Léros) 58, 177 101 Alivéri (Evvoia) 131
Agía Marína (Sými) 189 Agios Pávlos beach (Crete) 283 Alkamenes 300
Agía Pákou (Sýros) 232 Agios Pétros (Lefkáda) 95 Alónnisos 11, 14, 115, 124–5
Agía Paraskeví (Spétses) 111 Agios Spyrídon (Corfu) 60 hotels 313
Agía Pelagía (Kýthira) 113 Agios Vasíleios (festival) 60 restaurants 330
Agía Rouméli (Crete) 20, 265 Agíou Panteleïmonos Festival Aloprónoia (Síkinos) 245
Agía Theodóti (Ios) 244 (Tílos) 58 Althaemenes of Crete 202
Agía Tríada (Crete) 13, 256, 273, Agíou Pnévmatos (festival) 58 Alykés (Zákynthos) 101
281 Agkathias (Crete), restaurants Alykés Saltpans (Kos) 182
Agiásos (Lésvos) 15, 147, 150 337 Alykí (Thásos) 140
Agio Gála (Chíos) 162 Agkístri (off Aígina) 107 Amalia, Queen 295
Agioi Anárgyroi (Spétses) 111 restaurants 329 Amári (Crete) 271
Agioi Apóstoloi (Crete) 263 Agnóntas (Skópelos) 123 Amári Valley (Crete) 273
Agioi Apóstoloi (festival) 58 Agora (Ancient Thásos) 138–9 A Tour of the Amári Valley 271
Agioi Apóstoloi Pétros kai Agora (Athens) 12, 71, 293, Amboise, Grand Master Petrus d’
Pávlos 58 296–7 194, 199
Agioi Déka (Crete) 275 Agora (Górtys, Crete) 275 Ambulance services 354, 355
Agios Andréas (Astypálaia) 184 Agora (Kos town) 169, 180–81 Ammoúdi (Santoríni) 250
Agios Antónis (Tílos) 187 Agorakritos 300 Amoopí (Kárpathos) 212
Agios Antónois (Nísyros) 185 Agriculture 30, 31 Amorgós 215, 243
Agios Dimítrios (festival) 59 Agrotourism 353 coastal scenery 21
Agios Dimítrios (Kos) 182 Aígina 19, 76, 103, 104, 106–9 hotels 316
Agios Efstrátios (off Límnos) hotels 312 restaurants 334
145 itineraries 19 walking 20
Agios Fokás (Skýros) 127 map 107 Amphitrite 64
Agios Fokás (Tínos) 23, 223 restaurants 329 Amphora 73
GENERAL INDEX 371
Avlémonas (Kýthira) 113 Building methods and materials Castles and fortifications (cont.)
Avlóna (Kárpathos) 213 33 Castle of the Knights (Kéfalos,
Avlonári (Evvoia) 132 Bulgaria 31 Kos) 183
Axieros 143 Bulgars 48 Castle of Knights (Kos town)
Bull’s Head Rhyton 280 180
B
Bureaux de change 356 Castle of the Knights of St
Bailouts 29, 30, 37 Bus travel 369 John (Mandráki, Nísyros) 185
Balkan Wars 53 Athens 302 Castle of Lykomedes (Skýros
Balkans 31 Buttresses 33 town) 126
Balos Beach (Crete) 254 Byron, Lord 52, 239 castle walls (Palaió Pylí, Kos) 183
Báltiza (Spétses) 111 Byzantine Greece 27, 37, 47, 48–9 citadel and walls (Ancient
Banking 356 Thásos) 139
C
Barbarossa, Hayreddin 107, 113, Cocco Pýrgos (Náxos) 242
124, 238, 268 Caesar, Julius 46, 201 Crusader castle (Archángelos,
Bardic tradition 29 Cafés 322 Rhodes) 204
Bareboat charter 347 Caïques 344, 364, 367 Crusader castle (Chorió, Chálki)
Barozzi family 243 CAIR (Rhodes) 18 208–9
Bartering 341 Calypso 97, 176 Cyclopean walls (Acropolis,
Basil the Bulgar Slayer 49 Camping 311 Athens) 299
Beaches 346 Canal d’Amour (Sidári) 82, 91 Cyclopean walls (Minoa,
beach hopping 21 Cape Amarantos (Skópelos) 114 Amorgós) 243
best 16–17 Cape Artemísio (Evvoia) 128, 133 Cyclopean walls (Palaiókastro,
choosing your island 23 Cape Lefkáda (Lefkáda) 21 Léros) 177
escape the crowds 17 Cape Pouriá (Skýros) 126 Cyclopean walls (Palaiókastro,
Beer 322 Capuchins 230 Nísyros) 185
Bembo Fountain (Irákleio, Crete) Car travel 368, 369 Fortétsa (Réthymno, Crete)
278 arriving by car 368 258, 268
Benákis, Antónios 301 car ferries 364 Frangokástello (Crete) 13, 255,
Benítses (Corfu) 83, 92 car hire 368, 369 269
Bicyle rental 20, 368 importing vehicles 364 Frankish castle (Ochthoniá,
Birdlife Carita, Raphael 93 Evvoia) 132
Alykés Saltpans (Kos) 182 Carnival 56 Gardíki Castle (Corfu) 83, 92
bird-watching holidays 342–3, Carretto, Grand Master Fabricius Gatelluzi towers (Palaiópoli,
345 del 198, 199 Samothráki) 142–3
Crete 256–7 Caryatids 71, 298 Genoese castle (Chóra,
Sporades 125 Casa Romana (Kos town) 181 Samothráki) 142
Birth rate 31 Cassius Longinus, Gaius 201 Hellenistic tower (Drakánou)
Bísti beach (Hydra) 16 Castles and fortifications (Ikaría) 163
Black-figure style 73 Acropolis (Athens) 12, 298–300 Hellenistic tower (Kéa) 233
Blue Caves (Zákynthos) 14, 23, Acropolis (Górtys, Crete) 275 High Tower (Náxos) 242–3
101 Acropolis (Líndos, Rhodes) Kassiópi (Corfu) 90
Blue Flag beaches 346 189, 191, 206–7 Kastélli (Kálymnos) 179
Boat trips 343–4, 345, 367 Agios Geórgios fortress Kastélli (Pátmos) 172
Bouboulína, Laskarína 103, 111 (Kástro, Kefalloniá) 98–9 Kastrí (Sykamiá, Sýros) 232
The Bourg (Rhodes town) 195 Agios Nikólaos fortress Kástro (Astypálaia town) 184
Bourtzi islet (Skiáthos) 118 (Rhodes town) 200 Kástro (Chíos town) 156–7
Boutari Winery (Crete) 18, 286 Agios Pétros tower (Andros) Kástro (Chóra, Kýthira) 112
Boutique hotels 310 220 Kástro (Kastellórizo) 209
Boyd-Hawes, Harriet 290 Angelókastro (Palaiokastrítsa, Kástro (Káto Chóra, Kýthira) 113
Brancusi, Constantin, The Kiss Corfu) 91 Kástro (Megálo Chorió, Tílos)
221 Apáno Kástro (Chóra, 187
Breakfast 322 Amorgós) 243 Kástro (Mólyvos, Lésvos) 151
Bronze Age 37, 38–9, 64, 215, 221 Byzantine castle of Nikariás Kástro (Mýrina, Límnos) 144
Agía Eiríni archaeological site (Ikaría) 163 Kástro Mytilónis (Mytilíni,
(Kéa) 233 Byzantine castle (Volissós, Lésvos) 148
see also Minoan civilization; Chíos) 162 Kástro (Náxos town) 240
Mycenaean civilization Castel Rosso (Evvoia) 115, 131 Kástro (Paroikiá, Páros) 237
Brooke, Rupert 126 Castle of the Knights (Chorió, Kástro (Pláka, Mílos) 246
grave of 127 Kálymnos) 178 Kástro (Plátanos, Léros) 177
GENERAL INDEX 373
Food and drink (cont.) Genoúpas 173 Greek War of Independence 37,
mezédes 321, 327 Gentilini Winery (Kefalloniá) 18 94, 103, 163
olive growing in Greece 149 Geology Crete 272
Ottoman influences 51 Mílos 247 Mýkonos 224
ouzo 150 Nísyros 186 Tínos 222
regional cuisines 320 Santoríni 249 Green travel 360
shopping 340 Geometric style 72 Gregory of Sými 187
special interest holidays 344, George, St 57 Gríkos (Pátmos) 173
345 Georgioúpoli (Crete) 269 Grótta area (Náxos) 240
staples and specialities 324–5 Gerakári (Crete) 271 Gyalí (Nísyros) 185
vegetarian food 323 Gérakas (Alónissos) 124 Gýzis, Nikólaos 301
what to drink 325 Geranoú (Pátmos) 173
H
wine and beer 322 Germanós, Archbishop of Pátra
see also Restaurants 53 Hades 64
Football 55 Giália beach (Andros) 218 Hadrian, Emperor 46
Foster, John 109 Gialós (Ios) 244 Halbherr, Frederico 276
Foúrni (Rhodes) 203 Gialós (Sými) 188, 189 Hall of the Royal Guard (Knosós,
Foúrnoi (off Ikaría) 135, 163 Gioúra (off Alónissos) 125 Crete) 284
hotels 314 Glinádo (Náxos) 241 Hallerstein, Baron Haller von
restaurants 331 Glóssa (Skópelos) 123 109
Fowles, John 111 Glystéri (Skópelos) 123 Hammam (Rhodes town) 195
Frangokástello (Crete) 13, 255, Gods and goddesses 64–5 Handicrafts 341
269 deities and mysteries of Harbour (Chaniá, Crete) 262
Franks 48, 49 Samothráki 143 Health 354–5
Franz Josef, Emperor of Austria Gold jewellery 341 insurance 355
93 Golf 344, 345 Heatstroke 355
Frappádika 322 Afántou (Rhodes) 205 Hector 66, 93
Frescoes Crete Golf Club (near Hekate 143
Akrotíri (Santoríni) 251 Chersónisos) 286 Helen, Empress 236
Knósos (Crete) 2–3, 281, 282–4 Gorguet, A F 97 Helen of Troy 39, 66, 206
Panagía Kerá (Kritsá, Crete) 289 Gortringen, Hiller von 250 Helios 65, 200
Friezes (temples) 71 Górtys (Crete) 13, 255, 274–5, 276 Hellenic Society for the Study
Furtwängler, Adolf 108 Law Code of Górtys 274 and Protection of the Monk
Goths 47 Seal (Alónissos) 124, 125
G
Goulandrís, Nikólaos and Dolly Hellenistic Greece 44–5
Gáïos (Paxós) 10, 81, 94 301 Hephaistos 144
Gala (Santoríni) 18 Gourniá (Crete) 290 Hera 64, 65
Galerius, Emperor 47 Gouviá (Corfu) 23 cult of 166
Galissás (Sýros) 232 Government House (Rhodes Herakles (Hercules) 206
Gallipoli campaign 127, 145 town) 200 labours of 65
Gardíki Castle (Corfu) 83 Grading (accommodation) Heredia, Grand Master
Gate of Parmenon (Ancient 308–9 Fernández de 180
Thásos) 139 Grámmata Bay (Sýros) 232 Hermes 65
Gatelluzi clan 139, 142 Gramvoúsa Peninsula (Crete) Hermes of Andros 218
Gatelluzi, Francesco 148 254, 260 Hero-worship 44
Gátsos, Níkos 29 Grand Staircase (Knosós, Crete) Herodotus 42, 68
Gávdos (off Crete) 261, 269 284 Heroes, Ancient Greek 64–5
Gávrio (Andros) 220 “Great Idea” 52, 53 Herter, Ernst 93
Génis, Stylianós 189 Great Siege of Rhodes 199, 200 Hesiod 68
Génnisis tis Theotókou 59 El Greco 96, 278 Hieron (Sanctuary of the Great
Genoese 27 birthplace (Fódele, Crete) 279 Gods, Samothráki) 142
Chíos 156, 158, 162 The Landscape of the Gods- Hiking see Walking
Crete 262 Trodden Mount Sinai 278 Hippocrates 180, 181, 182, 183
Lésvos 146, 148, 154 Greek National Tourism Hipponax 68
Northeast Aegean Islands Organization (GNTO) 350, 353 History 36–55
135 Greek Orthodox Church 28, 48, Ancient Greek historians 68
Rhodes 202 52, 351 Hitchhiking 352
Samothráki 142 Easter 56–7 Holy Cave of the Apocalypse
Thásos 139 Greek state, modern 27, 37, 52–5 (Pátmos) 11, 19, 173
378 GENERAL INDEX
Holy Week 56, 57 Ikaría 135, 137, 163 Irakliá (off Náxos) 243
Home life 31 beaches 17 Irene, Empress 48
Homer 18, 29, 274 hotels 314 Isidore of Miletus 236
Iliad 41, 66, 68 restaurants 331 Island, choice of 23
Odyssey 18, 41, 67, 68, 79, 89 Ikaros 163 Istiaía (Evvoia) 128, 133
Hoplite warriors 40 Iktinos 300 Italian invasion/occupation 54
Horse riding 344, 345 Immigrants 351 Léros 169, 176–7
Hospitals 354 reverse immigration 27 Sými 188
Hostels 311, 352, 353 Immortal Poetry (Tómpros) 126 Itanos (Crete) 291
Hot springs see Spas and springs Imports 29 Ithaca 14, 79, 80, 96
Hotels 308–19 Impros Gorge (Crete) 269 hotels 312
Argo-Saronic Islands 312–13 Independence Day 57 legend of Odysseus’s return
Athens 319 Indignant Citizens Movement 97
booking 308 (Kinima Aganaktismenon) restaurants 328
boutique 310 55 sailing 22
Crete 318–19 Indpendence movement 52–3 Itineraries 10–15
Cyclades 316–17 Inn of France (Rhodes town) 2 days in Athens 12
Dodecanese 315–16 199 3 days in Rhodes 12–13
grading 308–9 Inn of Italy (Rhodes town) 199 4 days in Crete 13
hotel chains 309, 311 Inn of Provence (Rhodes town) 7 days around the Cyclades
Ionian Islands 312 198 and Dodecanese Islands
Northeast Aegean Islands Inn of Spain (Rhodes town) 199 11, 15
314 Inns of the Tongues (Rhodes 7 days around the Ionian
opening seasons 309 town) 198–9 Islands 10, 14
prices 308 Inoculations 355 7 days around the Sporades,
recommended 311 Insurance 355 Evvoia and Northest Aegean
restoration inns 310 Inter-island ferries 367 Islands 11, 14–15
Sporades and Evvoia 313–14 International relations 31
J
Thessaloníki 319 Internet 358, 359
House of Dionysos (Delos) 229 Iolkos (Vólos) 115 Jellyfish 35, 125, 346, 355
House of Dioscourides and Ionian Islands 78–101 Jet-skiing 346
Cleopatra (Delos) 229 7 days around the Ionian Jewellery 341
House of the Dolphins (Delos) Islands 10, 14 Jewish Quarter (Rhodes town)
229 Britain control of 51 195
House of the Masks (Delos) choosing your island 23 John the Divine, St 77, 155
47, 229 climate 61 Holy Cave of the Apocalypse
House with Mosaics (Ancient ferry services 364 (Pátmos) 19, 173
Erétria) 131 getting around 81 Monastery of St John (Pátmos)
Houses, Rhodian 33 hotels 312 174–5
Hydra 12, 102, 103, 110–11 map 80–81 John Palaiológos, Emperor 148
beaches 16 restaurants 328–9 John the Russian, St 133
hotels 313 sailing 22 Junta 27, 30, 54, 55
restaurants 329 Venetians 50, 79 Justinian, Emperor 148, 236
Hydra, Lernaean 65 walking 20
K
Hydra town 110–11 Ionic style 71
Hydriai 72, 73 Ios 215, 244 Kabeirio (Límnos) 145
Hydrofoils 366, 367 hotels 316 Kafeneía 28, 29, 322
route map 366 restaurants 335 Kaiser’s Throne (Corfu) 92
Ios town 244 Kalámi (Corfu) 83, 90
I
Ioulís (Kéa) 233 Kalamítsa (Skýros) 127
Ialyssós (Rhodes) see Ancient Iphgeneia 67 Kalamítsi (Lefkáda) 95
Ialyssós Ippokráteia (Kos) 58 Kaldáras, Apóstolos 29
Iconoclasm 48 Ipsus, Battle of 44 Kalderimi (cobblestone
Icons 341 Irákleio (Crete) 13, 278–81 footpaths) 20
Ierápetra (Crete) 13, 257, 289 hotels 318 Kallikrates 300
hotels 318 map 279 Kalloní (Lésvos) 146, 154
restaurants 337 restaurants 337 Kalogriá (Skýros) 127
Ifaisteía (Límnos) 145 Irákleio Archaeological Museum Kaloí Liménes (Crete) 274
Ignatius (architect) 236 (Crete) 13, 280–81 Kalokairinós, Mínos 285
GENERAL INDEX 379
Kálymnos 168, 169, 178–9 Kástro quarter (Chalkída) 130 Knosós, Palace of (Crete) 18, 39,
climbing 343 Katápola (Amorgós) 243 255, 259, 282–5
hotels 315 Kátergo (Folégandros) 17 excavations 53
map 178 Katharí Deftéra (Clean Monday) frescoes 8–9, 282–4
restaurants 332 56–7 history 285
Kalythiés (Rhodes) 205 Káto Chóra (Kýthira) 113 itineraries 13
Kalývia (farmhouses) 11, 123 Káto Kástro (Andros town) 218 museum artifacts 280–81
Kamáres (Sífnos) 235 Káto Katákoilos (Andros) 220 plan 282–3
Kamári (Kos) 183 Katsadiás (Lipsí) 176 Koímisis tis Theotókou
Kamári (Santoríni) 251 Kayaking 23 (Assumption of the Virgin
Kámeiros (Rhodes) see Ancient Kazantzákis, Nikos 54, 107, 240, Mary) 59, 213
Kámeiros 286 Kokkári (Sámos) 166–7
Kamíni (Hydra) 111 Kéa 215, 233 Kokkinókastro (Alónissos) 124
Kámpos (Chíos) 157 festivals 58 Kókkinos, Michális, Mermaid 178
Kámpos (Ikaría) 163 hotels 316 Kolibíthra (Tínos) 223
Kámpos (Pátmos) 173 restaurants 335 Kolibíthra Bay (Tínos) 17, 23, 223
Kanála (Kýthnos) 234 walking 20 Kolonáki (Athens) 293, 295
Kanáris, Constantínos 94, 157 Kechriá (Skiáthos) 119 Kolonóstilo (Kálymnos) 179
Kandíli estate (Prokópi) 133 Kefalloniá 28, 79, 81, 98–9 Kolymbíthres beach (Páros) 215
Kánia (Chálki) 209 airport 362 Kolympári (Crete) 260
Kanóni (Corfu) 89 beaches 16 Kombolóï (worry beads) 341
Kapodístrias, Ioánnis 52, 106 hotels 312 Komiakí (Náxos) 242
statue (Corfu town) 86–7 itineraries 10, 14 Kommós (Crete) 274
Kara Ali, Admiral 157 kayaking 23 Kontiás (Límnos) 137, 145
Karakostís, Nikítas and Michaïl map 98 Koraïs, Adamántios 157
189 restaurants 328 Korisíon Lagoon (Corfu) 82, 92
Karamanlís, Konstantínos 31, 55 wine 18 Korissía (Kéa) 233
Karavás (Kýthira) 113 Kéfalos (Kos) 183 Kornáros, Ioánnis, Lord, Thou Art
Karavostási (Folégandros) 21, Kéntros (Schinoússa) 243 Great 291
245 Kentrótas, Geórgios 247 Kos 15, 169, 180–83
Kardáki (Crete) 271 Kerameikós (Athens) 72 airport 362
Kardámaina (Kos) 183 Kéros-Sýros culture 38, 221 cycling 20
Karfí (Crete) 287 Kiliç Ali, Admiral 164 festivals 58
Karlóvasi (Sámos) 21, 167 Kímolos (Mílos) 247 hotels 315
Kárpathos 15, 169, 212–13 King’s Megaron (Knosós, Crete) map 180–81
beaches 17 283, 284 restaurants 333
diving 22 Kíni (Sýros) 232 Kos town 11, 169, 180–81
hotels 315 Kiónia (Tínos) 23, 223 Koskinoú (Rhodes) 191, 205
map 212 Kiréa, River (Evvoia) 133 Kotsyfoú Gorge (Crete) 270
restaurants 333 The Kiss (Brancusi) 221 Koufoníssi (off Náxos) 243
water sports 22 Kitchenware 341 hotels 316
Kárpathos town 212 Kiteboarding 22 restaurants 335
Karthaía (Kéa) 233 Klephts (mountain brigands) Koukounariés (Skiáthos) 118
Kárystos (Evvoia) 129, 131 52 Kournochóri (Náxos) 241
Kásos 169 Klídonas (Chaniá, Crete) 58 Koúroi (male nude statues)
Kásos (off Kárpathos) 213 Klontzás, Geórgios 188 40, 296
Kassiópi (Corfu) 83, 90 Klytemnestra 67 Kourtaliótiko gorge (Crete)
Kastélli Kissámou (Crete) 260 Knights of Rhodes (Knights of 256, 270
hotels 318 St John) 19, 36, 50, 51, 198–9 Krater 73
Kastellórizo 169, 209–11 Acropolis (Líndos, Rhodes) Kri-kri (Cretan wild goats) 20, 264
hotels 315 206 Kritinía (Rhodes) 203
restaurants 333 Chálki 209 Kritsá (Crete) 289
Kastellórizo town 209, 210–11 First Grand Master 196 Kronos 272
Kastráki (Náxos) 240 Kos 180, 183 Krýa Váthra (Samothráki) 143
Kástro (Kefalloniá) 98–9 Léros 176, 177 Kydonia (Chaniá, Crete) 263
Kástro (Sífnos) 235 Nísyros 185 Kylix 72, 73
Kástro (Skiáthos) 119 Rhodes 77, 169, 190, 192–9, Kými (Evvoia) 129, 132
Kástro (Thásos) 141 201 Kyrá Panagiá (Kárpathos) 213
Kástro architecture 32 Tílos 187 Kyrá Panagiá (Skýros) 127
380 GENERAL INDEX
Kyrrestes, Andronikos 223 Lekythos 72, 73 Lord, Thou Art Great (Kornáros)
Kýthira 79, 103, 104, 112–13 Leo III, Pope 48 291
hotels 313 Leo IX, Pope 49 Lótzia (Réthymno, Crete) 268
map 112 Lepanto, Battle of 50 Louis, Spyrídon 53
restaurants 329 Lépida (Léros) 176–7 Loutra (Kýthnos) 234
Kýthnos 215, 234 Lépoura (Evvoia) 131 Loutrá (Nísyros) 185
diving 22 Léros 169, 176–7 Loutrá Aidipsoú (Evvoia) 11, 14,
hotels 316 hotels 315 128, 133
restaurants 335 map 177 Loutrá Giáltron (Evvoia) 133
restaurants 333 Loutráki (Skópelos) 123
L
Lesseps, Mathieu de 86 Loutró (Crete) 269
Labyrinth (Knosós, Crete) 18, Lésvos 135, 136, 146–55 hotels 318
280, 285 airport 363 Luke, St 147, 150
Ladikó Bay (Rhodes) 205 Eastern Lésvos 150–51 Lyceum (Athens) 69
Lady of Phylakopi 246 hotels 314 Lycian Tomb (Kastellórizo) 209
Laertes 97 itineraries 11, 15 Lykavittós Hill (Athens) 292
Lagáda (Amorgós) 243 olive growing 149 Lykoúrgos Logothétis
Laganás (Zákynthos) 101 restaurants 331 (Pythagóreio, Sámos) 165
Lagoúdi (Kos) 182 vernacular architecture 32, 33 Lykourgos of Sparta 41
Lake Dýstos (Evvoia) 129 Western Lésvos 154–5 Lyrarakis Winery (Crete) 18
Lake Kournás (Crete) 269 Leto 228 Lysias 69
Lákka (Paxós) 14, 94 Leuktra, Battle of 43 Lysikrates Monument (Athens)
Lakkí (Léros) 169, 176–7 Library of Ahmet Havuz (Rhodes 297
Art Deco architecture 176 town) 195 Lýtras, Nikófóros 301
Lámpi (Pátmos) 173 Ligonéri (Spétses) 111 Lýtras, Nikólaos 301
The Landscape of the Gods-Trodden Liménas (Thásos) 135, 138
M
Mount Sinai (El Greco) 278 Límni (Evvoia) 14, 115, 128, 133
Langáda (Mílos) 247 Limnonári (Skópelos) 123 Macedonians 37, 43, 44–5
Language 28–9 Límnos 15, 135, 137, 144–5 Magaziá (Skýros) 126
courses 342, 345 airport 362 Magazines 359
phrase book 396–400 map 144 Maitland, Sir Thomas 87
Lárdos (Rhodes) 207 restaurants 331–2 Maitland Rotunda (Corfu town)
Lárdos Bay (Rhodes) 207 Linariá (Skýros) 127 87
Lasíthi Plateau (Crete) 28, 257, 287 Líndos (Rhodes) 13, 15, 191, Makrýgialos (Crete), hotels 318
Lássi (Kefalloniá) 98 206–7 Máleme (Crete) 263
Latináki (Folégandros) 245 festivals 58 Mália (Crete) 255, 257, 287
Lató Etéra (Crete) 289 Linear A script 262, 273, 280 Maltezána (Astypálaia) 184
Lausanne, Treaty of 53, 154 Linear B script 39, 280 Mandráki (Nísyros) 184–5
Lava masonry 33 Lion of Kéa (Ioulís, Kéa) 233 Mandráki (Skiáthos) 119
Law Code of Górtys 274 Lion Terrace (Delos) 228 Mandráki harbour (Rhodes) 12,
League of Corinth 43 Lipsí 169, 176 74–5, 191, 200
Lear, Edward 91 hotels 315 Mandrákia (Mílos) 216
A View from the Benítses Road restaurants 333 Manganári bay (Ios) 244
Near Gastoúri 91 Lipsí town 176 Mános, Grigórios 87
Leather goods 341 Lissós (Crete) 261 Mantamádos (Lésvos) 147, 150
Lefká Ori (Crete) 20, 21, 260–61 The Liston (Corfu town) 85, 86 Manuel II Palaiológos, Emperor
Lefkáda 79, 81, 95 Literature 68–9 139, 141
arriving by road 368 Little Palace (Knosós, Crete) 285 Maps
beach hopping 21 Little Venice (Mýkonos town) Aígina 107
hotels 312 15, 224 Amári Valley (Crete) 271
itineraries 10, 14 Livádi (Astypálaia) 184 Ancient Thásos 139
restaurants 328 Livádi (Folégandros) 21, 245 Andros 219
sailing 22 Livádi (Pátmos) 173 Argo-Saronic Islands 104–5
Lefkáda town 95 Livádi (Schinoússa) 243 Athens 294–5
Léfkes (Páros) 11, 15, 238 Livádi (Sérifos) 235 Athens: transport links 305
Lefkós (Kárpathos) 213 Livádia (Tílos) 187 Athens: useful routes in 302
Legends see Myths and legneds Loggerhead turtles 35, 101 Chíos 156
Leighton, Lord Frederic, Elektra Loggia (Irákleio, Crete) 278 climate of the Greek Islands 61
at the Tomb of Agamemnon 67 Lois, Caesar 176 Corfu 82–3
GENERAL INDEX 381
Mólos (Páros) 239 Monasteries and convents (cont.) Monasteries and convents (cont.)
Mólos (Skýros) 126 Moní Faneroménis (Lefkáda) 95 Moní Vrontisíou (Crete) 275
Mólyvos (Míthymna) (Lésvos) Moní Faneroménis (Náxos) 242 Moní Ypsiloú (Lésvos) 146, 155
15, 136, 146, 151 Moní Faneroménis (Salamína) Moní Zoödóchou Pigís (Póros)
Mon Repos Villa (Corfu) 87, 89 106 110
Monasteries and convents Moní Filerímou (Rhodes) 13, Moní Zoödóchou Pigís (Síkinos
opening hours 351 191, 202 town) 244
etiquette 351 Moní Galatáki (Límni, Evvoia) Mystrás (Pelopponese) 48, 49
Agía Efpraxía convent (Hydra) 133 Néa Moní (Chíos) 15, 19, 21,
111 Moní Gouvernétou (Akrotíri 77, 135, 136, 160–61
Agía Varvára (Sýros) 232 Peninsula, Crete) 261 Profítis Ilías (Hydra) 111
Agios Ioánnis (Ermoúpoli, Moní Katholikoú (Akrotíri Zoödóchos Pigí (Andros) 220
Sýros) 231 Peninsula, Crete) 261 Monasticism 28
Agios Nektários (Aígina) 107 Moní Kechrovouníou (Tínos) Monastiráki (Athens) 12, 293,
Great Lávra (Mount Athos) 48–9 223 294, 296
Metamórfosis tou Stíros Moní Leimónos (Lésvos) 154 Monetary Union 29, 54, 55
(Skópelos) 123 Moní Longovárdas (Páros) 238 Moni (off Aígina) 107
Monastery of St John (Chóra, Moní Megális Panagías Monk seals 124, 125, 167, 209
Pátmos) 11, 15, 19, 28, 77, 169, (Sámos) 165 Monodéntri (Lipsí) 176
172, 174–5 Moní Metamórfosis tou Sotíros Monólithos (Rhodes) 13, 190, 203
Moní Agías Marínas (Kéa) 233 (Kými) 132 Monte Smith (Rhodes town)
Moní Agías Theodótis (Ios) 244 Moní Moúndon (Chíos) 163 194, 201
Moní Agías Triádas (Akrotíri Moní Palaiokástrou (Mýkonos) Moore, Henry, Three Standing
Peninsula, Crete) 261 225 Figures 221
Moní Agíou Andréa Moní Panachrántou (Andros) Mopeds 344, 345
(Kefalloniá) 99 219 rental 368
Moní Agíou Antoníou (Páros) Moní Panagía (Hydra) 111 Morosini Fountain (Irákleio,
238 Moní Panagías Chozoviótissas Crete) 278
Moní Agíou Charalámpou (Amorgós) 243 Mosaics 47
(Skiáthos) 119 Moní Panagías Goniás choklákia 208
Moní Agíou Georgíou (Skýros (Kolympári, Crete) 260 Delos 229
town) 126 Moní Panagías Kounístras Néa Moní (Chíos) 160–61
Moní Agíou Ioánni (Kos) 183 (Skiáthos) 119 Roman Remains (Kos town) 181
Moní Agíou Ioánnou (Crete) 270 Moní Panagías Spilianís Moschophoros (Calf-Bearer) 300
Moní Agíou Ioánnou (Mandráki, Nísyros) 185 Mosques
Prodrómou (Chálki) 209 Moní Panagías Spilianís Emir Zade (Chalkída) 130
Moní Agíou Michaïl (Pythagóreio, Sámos) 165 Ierápetra (Crete) 289
Roukounióti (Sými) 189 Moní Perivolís (Lésvos) 154 Mosque of Ibrahim Pasha
Moní Agíou Panteleïmonos Moní Préveli (Crete) 256, 270 (Rhodes town) 195
(Tílos) 187 Moní Skiádi (Rhodes) 190, 203 Mosque of the Janissaries
Moní Agíou Theodórou Moní Taxiárchi Michaïl (Chaniá, Crete) 263
(Kýthira) 113 Panormíti (Sými) 189 Mosque of Murad Reis
Moní Archangélou Michaïl Moni Taxiarchón (Mantamádos, (Rhodes town) 200
(Thásos) 140–41 Lésvos) 147, 150 Mosque of Rejep Pasha
Moní Arkadíou (Crete) 270, 272 Moní Taxiarchón (Sérifos) 235 (Rhodes town) 195
Moní Asomáton (Amári Valley, Moní Taxiarchón (Skópelos) 123 Mosque of Suleiman the
Crete) 271 Moní Thárri (Rhodes) 13, 190, Magnificent (Rhodes town)
Moní Christoú tou Dásous 204 193, 195
(Petaloúdes, Páros) 239 Moní Theotókou (Mount Nerantzés Mosque (Réthymno,
Moní Chrysoskalítissas (Crete) Kerketéfs, Sámos) 167 Crete) 268
261 Moní Theotókou Motorcycle rental 368
Moní Episkopís (Síkinos) 244–5 (Palaiokastrítsa, Corfu) 91 Motoring organizations 368
Moní Evangelistrías (Mount Moní Timíou Prodrómou Moúdros (Límnos) 145
Kerketéfs, Sámos) 167 (Skópelos) 123 Mount Aínos (Kefalloniá) 99
Moní Evangelistrías (Skiáthos) Moní tis Panagías tis Mount Ampelos (Sámos) 167
119 Anafonítrias (Zákynthos) 101 Mount Athos 48–9, 141
Moní Evangelistrías (Skópelos) Moní Toploú (Crete) 291 Mount Attávyros (Rhodes) 203
123 Moní Tsampíkas (Rhodes) Mount Délfi (Skópelos) 123
Moní Faneroménis (Crete) 290 13, 205 Mount Dikaíos (Kos) 182
GENERAL INDEX 383
Mount Díkti (Crete) 257, 287 Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Mount Dírfys (Evvoia) 129, 132 Archaeological Museum Cretan Open-Air Museum
Mount Erymanthus (Achaea) 65 (Ierápetra, Crete) 289 (Chersónisos) 286
Mount Fengári (Samthráki) 135, Archaeological Museum Cultural Centre Gyzi Hall (Firá,
142, 143 (Ioulís, Kéa) 233 Santoríni) 249
Mount Gioúchtas (Crete) 286 Archaeological Museum Decorative Arts Museum
Mount Idi (Crete) 271, 272, 286 (Kastélli Kissámou, Crete) 260 (Rhodes town) 194
Mount Ipsário (Thásos) 140 Archaeological Museum Ecology and Folk Museum
Mount Kerketéfs (Sámos) 167 (Kástro, Sífnos) 235 (Ano Meriá, Folégandros) 245
Mount Ochi (Evvoia) 129, 131 Archaeological Museum (Kos Faltáits Museum (Skýros town)
Mount Ordymnos (Lésvos) 155 town) 181 126
Mount Oros (Aígina) 107 Archaeological Museum Fokas-Cosmetatos Foundation
Mount Paloúki (Skópelos) 123 (Mýkonos town) 224, 225 (Argostóli, Kefalloniá) 98
Mount Pantokrátor (Corfu) 20, Archaeological Museum Folk Art Museum (Skópelos
83, 90 (Mýrina, Límnos) 144 town) 122
Mount Zas (Náxos) 241 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Agios Geórgios,
Mountain biking 20 (Mytilíni, Lésvos) 148 Crete) 287
Moutsoúna (Náxos) 242 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Agios Nikólaos,
Mpstsí (Andros) 220 (Náxos town) 240 Crete) 288
Mud-and-rubble construction Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Chalkída,
33 (Paroikiá, Páros) 237 Evvoia) 130
Muggings 354 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Kárystos,
Museums and galleries (Pláka, Mílos) 246, 247 Evvoia) 131
opening hours 351 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Kými, Evvoia)
admission prices 350–51 (Póthia, Kálymnos) 178 129, 132
Acropolis Museum (Athens) Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Lefkáda town)
293, 300 (Réthymno, Crete) 268 95
Aígina Museum 107 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Mýkonos town)
Archaeological Collection of (Rhodes town) 12, 193, 194, 198 224, 225
Stavros (Ithaca) 96 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Othos,
Archaeological Museum (Siteía, Crete) 290 Kárpathos) 213
(Agios Nikólaos, Crete) 288 Archaeological Museum Folk Museum (Síkinos town)
Archaeological Museum (Skýros town) 126 244, 245
(Ancient Erétria, Evvoia) Archaeological Museum Geological Museum
129, 131 (Tínos town) 223 (Apeíranthos, Náxos) 242
Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Historic Archives and Museum
(Ancient Thásos) 138 (Vathý, Ithaca) 96 of Hydra 111
Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Historic and Folk Museum
(Andros town) 218 (Vathý, Sámos) 164 (Álinda, Léros) 177
Archaeological Museum Argéntis Folklore Museum Historical Archives Office
(Apeíranthos, Náxos) 242 (Chíos town) 157 (Ermoúpoli, Sýros) 230, 231
Archaeological Museum Benáki Museum (Athens) Historical and Folk Museum
(Archánes, Crete) 286 293, 301 (Argostoli, Kefalloniá) 98
Archaeological Museum Bouboulína Museum (Spétses Historical and Folk Museum
(Argostóli, Kefalloniá) 98 town) 111 (Mandráki, Nísyros) 185
Archaeological Museum Byzantine Museum (Chíos Historical and Folk Museum
(Chalkída, Evvoia) 130 town) 157 (Réthymno, Crete) 268
Archaeological Museum Byzantine Museum (Corfu Historical Museum (Irákleio,
(Chaniá, Crete) 263 town) 87 Crete) 278, 279
Archaeological Museum Byzantine Museum (Mytilíni, Historical Museum and
(Chóra, Kýthira) 112 Lésvos) 148 Archives (Chaniá, Crete) 263
Archaeological Museum Byzantine Museum (Rhodes History and Folk Museum
(Corfu town) 88–9 town) 194 (Pláka, Mílos) 246, 247
Archaeological Museum Byzantine Museum (Zákynthos Irákleio Archaeological
(Delos) 228 town) 100 Museum (Crete) 13, 280–81
Archaeological Museum Castle Museum (Kastellórizo) Kazantzákis Museum (Myrtiá,
(Ermoúpoli, Sýros) 230, 231 209 Crete) 286
Archaeological Museum (Firá, Chatzi-Giánnis Méxis Museum Lena’s House (Mýkonos town)
Santoríni) 249 (Spétses town) 111 224, 225
384 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Naturism 344, 345, 346, 351
Maritime Museum (Andros Theófilos Museum (Mytilíni, (Zákynthos) 16, 101
town) 218 Lésvos) 148 Navagio Bay (Zákynthos)
Maritime Museum (Sými Vágis Museum (Potamiá, 16, 101
town) 188 Thásos) 140 Navaríno, Battle of 52
Maritime Museum of the Vamvakáris Museum Náxos 11, 15, 215, 240–43
Aegean (Mýkonos town) 224, (Ermoúpoli, Sýros) 231 beaches 17
225 Music cycling 20
Medieval Rhodes and Ancient courses 342 hotels 317
Rhodes Exhibitions (Rhodes rempétika (Greek blues) 231 map 241
town) 194, 196 Muslims 351 restaurants 335–6
Municipal Art Gallery Mussolini, Benito 169, 176–7, walking 20
(Mýkonos town) 224, 225 196 windsurfing 22
Museum of Asiatic Art (Corfu Mustapha Pasha 195 Náxos town 15, 240
town) 85, 87 Mycenaean civilization 37, 38–9 festivals 58–9
Museum of Cretan Ethnology Cyclades 215 hotels 317
(Vóroi, Crete) 273 Ithaca 96 Néa Agora (Rhodes town)
Museum of Cyclidic Art Knosós (Crete) 285 201
(Athens) 221, 294, 301 Mílos 246 Néa Kaméni (off Santoríni)
Museum of Marble Crafts Mýkonos 15, 215, 224–5 249, 251
(Pýrgos, Tínos) 223 airport 362, 363 Néa Moní (Chíos) 21, 77, 135,
Museum of Modern Art beaches 17 136, 160–61
(Andros town) 218 hotels 316–17 cultural highlights 19
Museum of Natural History map 225 itineraries 15
(Irákleio, Crete) 279 restaurants 335 Néa Stýra (Evvoia) 129, 131
Museum of Popular Arts and Mýkonos town 31, 224–5 Nektários, Archbishop 107
Folklore (Apollonía, Sífnos) 235 Mýloi (Náxos) 241 Neolithic period 38, 91
Museum of Religious Art Mylopótamos (Kýthira) 113 Nerá (off Kálymnos) 179
(Irákleio, Crete) 278, 279 Mylopótas beach (Ios) 244 Nero, Emperor 46, 90
National Archaeological Mylos (Lefkáda) 21 New Democracy 55
Museum (Athens) 246, 251, Mýrina (Límnos) 135, 144 New Market (Rhodes town)
293, 296 Myrivílis, Strátis 147, 151 170
National Gallery of Art Myrsíni (Náxos) 242 Newspapers 359
(Athens) 293, 301 Myrtiés (Kálymnos) 179 Nída Plateau (Crete) 272
Natural History Museum of the Myrtiótissa (Corfu) 16, 82, 92 Nightlife (Athens) 293
Lésvos Petrified Forest (Sígri, Mýrtos Bay (Kefalloniá) 14, 16, Nike Fountain (Sanctuary of
Lésvos) 155 79, 99 the Great Gods, Samothráki)
Naval Museum (Chaniá, Crete) Mystrás 48, 49, 50 142
262 Myths and legends Nikiá (Nísyros) 185, 186
Nikofóreion Ecclesiastical gods, goddesses and heroes Nikifóros II Fokás, Emperor
Museum (Lipsí town) 176 64–5 219
Palaeontological Museum Greek myths in Western art Nimporió (Chálki) 208
(Megálo Chorió, Tílos) 187 67 Niptír Ceremony (Pátmos)
Panagía Evangelístria (Tínos legend of Achilles 93 175
town) 222–3 legend of Odysseus’s return to Nísyros 11, 15, 169, 184–6
Papadiamántis Museum Ithaca 97 beaches 17
(Skiáthos town) 119 Mytilíni (Lésvos) 15, 32, 147, geology 186
Paper Money Museum (Cofu 148 hotels 315
town) 84, 97 map 185
N
Phonograph Museum restaurants 333
(Lefkáda town) 95 Náfpaktos, Peace of 45 sailing 22
Prehistoric Museum (Firá, Name days 60 Nísyros Caldera 186
Santoríni) 249 Náousa (Páros) 11, 15, 27, 238 Noel-Baker family 128, 133
Romvos Gallery (Athens) 54 Napoleon I, Emperor 157, 199, Nointel, Marquis of 239
Solomós Museum (Zákynthos 201, 238 Normans 49
town) 100 Napoleon’s House (Ierápetra, North Lustral Basin (Knosós,
Sými Museum (Sými town) 188 Crete) 289 Crete) 285
Tériade Museum (Mytilíni, NATO 54 North Pillar Hall (Knosós,
Lésvos) 148 Nature holidays 342–3, 345 Crete) 285
GENERAL INDEX 385
Northeast Aegean Islands Ottoman Empire (cont.) Palaiochóra (Kýthira) 112, 113
134–67 Límnos 135, 144 Palaiokastrítsa (Corfu) 14, 82,
7 days around the Sporades, Mýkonos 224 87, 91
Evvoia and Northest Aegean Ottoman Greece 50–51 Palaiókastro (Andros) 220
Islands 11, 14–15 Páros 236 Palaiókastro (Nísyros) 185
choosing your island 23 Rhodes 169, 190 Palaiolgína, María 148
climate 61 Sámos 164 Palaiópoli (Andros) 218, 220
getting around 137 Thásos 141 Palamedes 151
hotels 314 Outdoor activities 20–23, Pallás beach (Líndos, Rhodes)
map 136–7 342–5 207
restaurants 330–32 choosing your island 23 Pallavicini, Sforza 268
Noúilia (Sými) 189 Ouzerí 321 Páloi (Nísyros) 185
Nydrí (Lefkáda) 10, 14, 95 Ouzo 150, 325 Panagía (Thásos) 140
Overview, best 21 Panepistimíou (Athens) 294
O
Panhellenic Socilaist Movement
P
Ochi Day 59 (PASOK) 28, 31, 55
Ochthoniá (Evvoia) 129, 132 Package deals 363, 365 Pánormos Bay (Mýkonos) 225
Odysseus 79, 89, 96 Pagoménos, Ioánnis 261 Panteleïmon, Agios 219
return to Ithaca 97 Painting Papadiamántis, Alexandros
Oía (Santoríni) 15, 29, 250, holidays 342 118, 119
252–3 styles (vases) 72–3 Papadópoulos, Colonel
Oinochoe 73 Palace periods 38–9 Georgios 55
Oinomageireíon 320 Palaces Papáfragkas (Mílos) 247
Oinoússes (off Chíos) 163 Achílleion Palace (Corfu) 14, Papandréou, Andréas 31, 55
Olives 149 83, 93 Papandréou, Geórgios 54, 55
Oloús (Crete) 288 Government House (Rhodes Papanikoláou, Dr Geórgios 132
Olýmpi (Chíos) 21, 159 town) 200 Papoulias, Karolos 31
Olympic Games 41, 52, 55 Governor’s Palace (Póthia, Paradise (fresco) 289
Olympos (Kárpathos) 213 Kálymnos) 178 Paradise beach (Mýkonos) 17,
festivals 59, 213 Justiniani Palace (Chíos town) 225
traditions of 213 157 Parágka (Mýkonos) 225
Omalós Plateau (Crete) 256 Little Palace (Knosós, Crete) Parasailing 347
Onassis, Aristotle 54, 55, 95 285 Paris 64, 66, 67, 93
Onassis, Athina 95 Minoan palace (Archánes Parks and gardens
Opening hours 351 (Crete) 286 Achílleion Palace (Corfu) 93
restaurants 320 Odysseus’s Palace (Ithaca) 96 El Greco Park (Irákleio, Crete)
shops 340 Palace of the Grand Masters 278
tourist attractions 351 (Rhodes) 12, 15, 74–5, 193, Kárpathos Park (Kárpathos
Opening seasons 309, 350 196–7 town) 212
Oratory, Ancient Greek 69 Palace of Knosós (Crete) 13, 18, National Gardens (Athens) 295
Order of Hospitallers of the 39, 53, 255, 282–5 Public Gardens (Chaniá, Crete)
Knights of St John see Knights Palace of Mália (Crete) 287 263
of Rhodes Palace of St Michael and St Rodíni Park (Rhodes town)
Orestes 67 George (Corfu town) 85, 87 201
Oriental plane tree (Evvoia) 133 Palace of Zákros (Crete) 291 see also Water parks
Ormos Abrám (Náxos) 242 Pélla (Macedonia) 54 Paroikiá (Páros) 15, 236–7
Ormos Achíli (Skýros) 127 Phaestos (Crete) 13, 255, 276–7 Páros 11, 15, 215, 236–9
Ormos Aegiáli (Amorgós) 243 Praetorium (Górtys, Crete) 275 airport 362
Othonoí (off Corfu) 80, 91 Palaeolithic civilization 38 cycling 20
Othos (Kárpathos) 213 Palaiá Alónissos (Alónissos) 124 diving 22
Otto, King 52, 131, 293 Palaiá Kaméni (off Santoríni) hotels 317
Ottoman Empire 28, 37, 48, 49 249, 251 map 237
Andros 218, 220 Palaíkastro (Crete) 280, 291 restaurants 336
Chíos 156, 157, 161, 162 Palaió Pylí (Kos) 183 water sports 22
Crete 255, 262, 268, 269, 270 Palaiochóra (Aígina) 107 Parthenon (Athens) 12, 293,
Evvoia 115, 128 Palaióchora (Crete) 13, 260–61 299, 300
Kos 169, 180 hotels 318 architecture 70
Léros 176 restaurants 338 frieze 51, 55, 62–3, 300
Lésvos 146, 148, 151, 155 scenic drive from Chaniá 21 history 42, 48, 51
386 GENERAL INDEX
Parthenon Gallery (Acropolis Photography, in sacred places Póros 12, 103, 110
Museum, Athens) 300 351 hotels 313
Pasiphaë 285 Phrase book 396–400 restaurants 329
PASOK see Panhellenic Socilaist Phrygana habitat 256 Póros town 110
Movement Phylakopi (Mílos) see Ancient Portianoú (Límnos) 145
Passports 350 Phylakopi Pórto Katsíki (Lefkáda) 21
Patitíri (Alónissos) 124 Piano Nobile (Knosós, Crete) 284 Pórto Longós (Paxós) 94
Pátmos 11, 15, 77, 169, 172–5 Picasso, Pablo 221, 301 Poseidon 64, 89, 94, 143, 184
hotels 315 Pickpockets 354 bronze statue of 133
map 172 Piraeus 303, 305, 364 Poseidonía (Sýros) 232–3
restaurants 334 port map 365 Postal services 358–9
Patroklos 66 Píso Livádi (Páros) 239 Potamiá (Thásos) 140
Paul, St 46, 207, 299 Pithoi (storage jars) 283 Póthia (Kálymnos) 168, 178
Pausanias 47, 68 Pláka (Athens) 12, 293, 297 Poulákis, Theódoros 189
Paximádia islands (off Crete) Pláka (Crete) 288 Poúnta (Páros) 239
273, 274 Pláka (Mílos) 246–7 Pouriá (Skýros) 126
Paxós 78, 79, 81, 94 Pláka beach (Náxos) 17, 240 Prehistoric Greece 38–9
hotels 312 Plakiás (Crete) 13, 29, 270 Préveli beach (Crete) 2–3, 270,
itineraries 10, 14 restaurants 338 273, 274
restaurants 328–9 Plakotós (Ios) 244 Priam, King of Troy 66, 67
Peake, Sir Charles 87 Plataiai, Battle of 41 Prices
Pédi (Sými) 189 Plataniás (Crete) 318 accommodation 308
Pediments (temple) 70, 71, 109 Plátanos (Kálymnos) 179 admission 350–51
Péfkos (Rhodes) 207 Plátanos (Léros) 177 domestic air fares 363
Péfkos (Skýros) 127 Plateía 1821 (Chaniá, Crete) 263 ferry tickets 365
Peisistratos 41 Plateía Dimarcheíou (Corfu rising 356
Pélekas (Corfu) 92 town) 80, 88 Priest-King fresco (Knosós, Crete)
Pelopnnesian War 42, 68, 79, Plateía Evraíon Mart’yron 282
218 (Rhodes town) 195 Próchoros 173
Penelope 97 Plateía Ippokrátous (Rhodes Pródromos (Páros) 238
Pensions 310 town) 12, 192 Profítis Ilías (festival) 58
Penthesileia, Queen of the Plateía Kaïri (Andros town) 218 Profítis Ilías dome (Nístros) 186
Amazons 67 Plateía Miaoúli (Ermoúpoli, Prokópi (Evvoia) 128, 133
Pentikostí 58 Sýros) 230 Propylon (Sanctuary of the
Pérdika (Aígina) 107 Plateía Ríva (Andros town) 218 Great Gods, Samothráki) 143
Perikles 42, 293, 299 Plateía Syntágmatos (Athens) Protmagiá (May Day) 57
Períssa (Santoríni) 17, 251 295 Prunes 123
Peristéra (off Alónissos) 125 Plato 42, 43, 69 Psará (off Chíos) 163
Peristeriónes (dovecotes) (Tínos) Pláton, Nikólaos 291 Psáthi bay (Ios) 244
223 Platýs Gialós (Lipsí) 176 Psérimos (off Kálymnos) 179
Perivólas (Santoríni) 17, 251 Platýs Gialós (Mýkonos) 225 Psilí Ammos (Pátmos) 173
Persephone 64 Platýs Gialós (Sífnos) 235 Psiloreítis range (Crete) 272, 277
Persian Empire 41, 44–5, 106 Plomári (Lésvos) 147, 150 Ptolemies 250
Personal security 354–5 Poetry 68 Public demonstrations 354
Petaloúdes (Páros) 239 Sappho, the Poet of Lésvos 155 Public holidays 60
Petaloúdes (Rhodes) 13, 191, Police 351, 354, 355 tourist attractions 351
202 Polióchni (Límnos) 145 Public transport (Athens)
Pétra (Lésvos) 146, 154 Politics 29–31, 55 302–5
Petrified forest (Lésvos) 155 Polítis, Charles 301 Pydna, Battle of 45
Petrol 368 Pollution 55, 304 Pyrgí (Chíos) 21, 158, 162
Phaestos (Crete) 13, 180, 255, Polykrates 164, 165, 228 Pýrgoi (fortified tower-dwellings)
274, 276–7 Polyrínia (Crete) 260 32
Phaestos Disc 276, 280 Ponies (Skýros) 127 Pýrgos Markéllou (Aígina town)
Pharmacies 355 Póntamos beach (Chálki) 208 106
Pheidias 43, 71, 300 Pontikonísi (off Corfu) 89 Pýrgos (Tínos) 223
Philip II of Macedon 37, 43, 44, 69 Population 27 Pyropolitís (Gáïos) 94
Palace at Pélla 54 Population exchange 52, 53, 133 Pyrros, King 44
Philip V of Macedon 45 Porch of the Caryatids Pythagoras 165
Philosophers, Greek 68, 69 (Erechtheion, Athens) 298 Pythagóreio (Sámos) 31, 165
GENERAL INDEX 387
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Liz Sharp, Rituraj Singh, Ellie Smith, Claire Stewart,
people whose contributions and assistance have Hollie Teague, Claire Tennant-Scull, Amanda Tomeh,
made the preparation of this book possible. Nikky Twyman, Conrad Van Dyk, Dora Whitaker,
Andy Wilkinson.
Main Contributor
Marc Dubin is an American expatriate who divides Dorling Kindersley would also like to thank
his time between London and Sámos. Since 1978 the following for their assistance: The Greek
he has travelled in every province of Greece. He Wine Bureau, Odysea.
has written or contributed to numerous guides to
Greece, covering such diverse topics as trekking Additional Research
and contemporary Greek music. Anna Antoniou, Garifalia Boussiopoulou,
Anastasia Caramanis, Michele Crawford, Magda
Stephanie Ferguson, a freelance journalist and Dimouti, Shirley Durant, Panos Gotsi, Zoi
travel writer, has hopped around almost 50 Greek Groummouti, Peter Millett, Tasos Schizas,
islands. She became bewitched by Greece after a Garifalia Tsiola, Veronica Wood.
holiday 20 years ago and since then has
contributed to eight guide books and written travel Artwork Reference
features on Greece for several national publications. Ideal Photo S.A., The Image Bank, Melissa
Publishing House, Tony Stone Worldwide.
Mike Gerrard is a travel writer and broadcaster who
has written several guides to various parts of Greece, Additional Photography
which he has been visiting annually since 1964. Jane Burton, Mariana Evmolpidou, Frank Greenaway,
Derek Hall, Nigel Hicks, Dave King, Neil Lucas, National
Andy Harris is a travel and food journalist based History Museum, Ian O’Leary, Stephen Oliver, Roger
in Athens. He is the author of A Taste of the Aegean. Philips, Rough Guides/Chris Chrstoforou, Kim Sayer,
Tony Souter, Clive Steeter, Harry Taylor, Kim Taylor,
Tanya Tsikas is a Canadian writer and travel guide Mathew Ward, Stuart West, Jerry Young.
editor. Married to a Greek, she has spent time in
Crete and currently lives in Oxford. Photography Permissions
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the
Deputy Editorial Director Douglas Amrine following for their assistance and kind permission
Deputy Art Director Gillian Allan to photograph at their establishments:
Managing Editor Georgina Matthews
Managing Art Editor Annette Jacobs Museum of Greek Folk Art, Athens; Karpathos
Museum; Markos Vamvakaris Museum, Syros;
Additional Illustrations Kymi Folk Museum, Evvoia; Stavros Kois’s House,
Richard Bonson, Louise Boulton, Gary Cross, Syros. Also all other cathedrals, churches, museums,
Kevin Goold, Roger Hutchins, Claire Littlejohn. hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries, and sights too
numerous to thank individually.
Revisions Team
Emma Anacootee, Claire Baranowski, Marta Bescos, Picture Credits
Sonal Bhatt, Tessa Bindloss, Hilary Bird, Subhadeep a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre;
Biswas, Neha Chander, Tony Clark, Elspeth Collier, f = far; l = left; r = right; t = top.
Michelle Crane, Michele Crawford, Catherine Day, Works of art have been reproduced with the
Mariana Evmolpidou, Jim Evoy, Rachel Fox, Carole permission of the following copyright holders: ©
French, Robin Gauldie, Emily Green, Lydia Halliday, ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2011 The Kiss
Emily Hatchwell, Leanne Hogbin, Kim Inglis, Taraneh Constantin Brancusi 221br. The work of art
Ghajar Jerven, Rahul Kumar, Maria Kelesidi, Lorien Three Standing Figures, Henry Moore (1947) 221bc
Kite, Priya Kukadia, Esther Labi, Felicity Laughton, is reproduced by permission of the Henry
Nicola Malone, Paul Marsden, Bhavika Mathur, Moore Foundation.
Alison McGill, Andreas Michael, Ella Milroy, Lisa
Minsky, Robert Mitchell, Adam Moore, Jennifer The publisher would like to thank the following
Mussett, George Nimmo, Tamsin Pender, Helen individuals, companies and picture libraries for
Peters, Eva Petrou, Marianne Petrou, Pollyanna permission to reproduce their photographs:
Poulter, Jake Reimann, Marisa Renzullo, Ellen Root,
Simon Ryder, Collette Sadler, Alice Saggers, Sands 123RF.com: Georgios Alexandris 128br, Rafael
Publishing Solutions, Rita Selvaggio, Ankita Sharma, Ben-Ari 69b, Kanvag 4-5tc, 135b, Panagiotis
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 393
Karapanagiotis 164cla, Guy Ozenne 257tl, Stancikasn Nationale, Paris The Author Guillaume Caoursin,
18br, Harold Stiver 125cr, Paul Vinten 35crb. Vice Chancellor of the Order of St John of Jerusalem
4Corners: Guido Cozzi 152–3; SIME/Johanna Huber Dedicating his Book to Pierre d’Aubusson, Grand Master
114; SIME/Riccardo Spila 2–3. of the Order of St John of Jerusalem who is Seated
Surrounded by High Dignitaries of the Order (1483),
Colby Adam: 250bl; illustrated by the Master of Cardinal of Bourbon Lat
Adrina Hotel Group, Skopelos: 311tr, 315br; 6067 f 3v 36(d); British Museum, London Cup, Tondo,
AKG, London: 200bl; Antiquario Palatino 65bl; with Scene of Huntsmen Returning Home 41cb, Greek
British Museum 299bc; Erich Lessing Akademie der Vase Showing Diver About to Enter the Sea in Search of
Bildenden Künste, Vienna 66c; Musée du Louvre Sponges (c.500 BC) 179br; Fitzwilliam Museum,
65tc; Naples Archaeological Museum 155bc; University of Cambridge Figurine of Demosthenes
National Archeological Museum, Athens 38–9(d), Enoch Wood of Burslem (c.1790) (lead glazed
39tl; Staatliche Kunstsammlungen, Albertinum, earthenware) 69tl, Attic Red-figured Pelike: Pigs,
Dresden 43crb, Liebighaus, Frankfurt/Main 45crb; Swineherd and Odysseus, Pig Painter (470–60BC)
Staatliche Antikensammlungen und Glyptotek, 97clb; House of Masks, Delos Mosaic of Dionysus
München 64bl; Mykonos Museum 67tr; riding a Leopard (c.AD 180) 47tc; Kunsthistorisches
Alamy Images: Art Directors & TRIP/Bob Turner Museum, Vienna Elizabeth of Bavaria, Wife of Emperor
361br; David Crosby 352tl; Danita Delimont 358bc; Franz Joseph I of Austria, Franz Xavier Winterhalter
Peter Eastland 266–61; Werli Francois 29c; 93c(d), Cameo commemorating the Naval Battle of
funkyfood London - Paul Williams 226–7; Terry Actium 46clb; Lauros-Giraudon/Louvre, Paris Rhodes
Harris just greece photo library 12bl; hemis.fr/ Winged Victory of Samothrace (early 2nd century BC)
Franck Guiziou 319br; Peter Horree 325tl; Mike 142c; National Archaeological Museum, Athens
Hughes 306–7; imageBROKER/Joachim Hiltmann Bronze Statue of Poseidon (c.460–450 BC) photo
318tr; IML Image Group Ltd/George Detsis 336bc; Bernard Cox 64cl; Private Collection Two-tiered Icon
Yadid Levy 334tr Dennis MacDonald 292; Hercules of the Virgin and Child and Two Saints, Cretan School
Milas 168, 210–11, 214, 254; Jeff Morgan 01 363tl; (15th century) 50c; Victoria and Albert Museum,
Kostas Pikoulas 355tl; Massimo Pizzocaro 335br; London Corfu, Edward Lear 91br; © The British
Robert Harding World Imagery 325cb, /Tuul 78; Museum: 38clb, 39crb, 42cb, 43clb, 65cra(d), 65br,
Sebastian Rothe 183br; Peter Titmuss 355cla; 67cl(d), 73tl, 73ca, 149cra.
Travelshots.com/Peter Phipp 329tr; Konstantinos
Tsakalidis 124t; Camera Press, London: ANAG 55tl, 55bl;
Alamy Stock Photo: Age Fotostock 257tc; Christopher Simon Sykes 87tl; Wim Swaan 229tl;
The Art Archive 69cra; Peter Forsberg 20br; Bob Corbis: EPA/Orestis Panagiotou 57tl; Hemis/Tuul
Gibbons 257cr; Terry Harris 58bl; Hemis 22cra; 229clb; John Heseltine 324cla.
Imageimage 19tl; IML Image Group Ltd 17cr;
Interfoto 54cb; MARKA 57clb; Hercules Milas Dreamstime.com: 88and84 368br; Adisa 16tr;
19tr, 21cla; Prisma Archivo 44tr; Airphoto 126bl; Alexki23 20c; Andreanita 256clb;
Ancient Art and Architecture: 41crb, 46ca, Arsty 11bl; Mila Atkovska 122br; Burnel1 125tl;
47cb, 49tl, 68cb, 68b(d), 109bl; Richard Carey 257br; Ciolca 342bl; Paul Cowan 19cr;
Antikenmuseum Basel Und Sammlung Dbyjuhfl 255b; Circe Denyer 35tr; Dimaberkut 56cl;
Ludwig: 72–3; Dstamatelatos 337tr; Dudau 356bl; Dziewul 20tr,
Aperion: John Hios 57c; 20cra; Emiralikokal 21clb; Enisu 322br, 330tr; Toni
Argyropoulos Photo Press: 59cr, 60tl, 60crb; Genes 257cla; Milan Gonda 27b; Sven Hansche
Athens International Airport: 360bl, 361tl; 116bl; Stoyan Haytov 230cla; Imagin.gr
Athens Urban Transport Organization (OASA): Photography 169b; Izanbar 125bl; Jedynakanna
302cla, 303tl; 348–9; Ivan Jelisavcic 15cla; García Juan 257ftl;
AWL Images: Norbert Eisele-Hein 20crb; Doug Julia161 324crb; Kalman89 16clb; Pavel Kalouš
Pearson 74–5; Travel Pix Collection 102 350cla; Panagiotis Karapanagiotis 13br, 20cl, 22bl,
222crb, 265crb; Serhii Kocherhin 286t; Stefanos
Benaki Museum: 37b, 48cla, 51tl, 51crb, 53cra, 301br; Kyriazis 21cr; Iancucristi 14bl; Laws1964 364c;
Paul Bernard: 45tc; Leannevorrias 15br; Lornet 12tl, 18–19c; Lucasdm
Bibliotheque National, Paris: Caoursin folio 175 13tc; Anna Lurye 338tr; Dariya Maksimova 104cb;
4cr(d), 38–9(d), Caoursin folio 33 199bl, Caoursin Mikelane45 257bl; Milosk50 83cra; Neirfy 18tr; Niradj
folio 79 199br; 17tl; Olgacov 20cr; Stephen Outram 323br;
Bridgeman Art Library, London: Acropolis Museum, Konstantinos Papaioannou 364bl; Lefteris
Athens, Greece Relief depicting hydria carriers from the Papaulakis 130cla; Roy Pedersen 346bl; Adrian Ionut
North Frieze of the Parthenon, c.447-432 BC (marble) Virgil Pop 16bl; Radist 204bl; Nikita Rogul 104cra;
62–3; Birmingham City Museums and Art Galleries Andrei Rokhlov 215b; Seaphotoart 125crb; Elizaveta
Pheidias Completing the Parthenon Frieze, Sir Shagliy 17br; Slasta20 19clb; George Tsartsianidis
Lawrence Alma-Tadema 70tr; Bibliothèque 57bl, 331br; Tuulijumala 19br; Vasilis Ververidis 20bl;
394 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Haris Vythoulkas 171cra; Witr 18clb; Wrangel 35tl; Frank Lane Pictures: Eric and David Hoskings 256bl;
Xiaoma 10clb; Zaisa22 39cr; Razvan Zinica 125br; Ilias Lalaounis: 341cla.
Marc Dubin: 32tr, 33bca, 33bra, 58tl, 172t, 209tr,
209br, 233br, 243br, 245br, 262b. Mani-Mani/conceptcom.gr: 320bl;
Mansell Collection: 64–5;
ECB: 357 all; Mary Evans Picture Library: 1, 97cr, 97bc,
Ecole Française d’Athènes: 228tr; 97br, 143bc, 166bl;
Ecole Nationale Superieure Des Beaux Arts, Merchant’s House: 312bc;
Paris: Delphes Restauration du Sanctuaire Envoi,
Tournaire (1894) 42–3; National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne:
Ekdotiki Athinon: 38crb, 174bc, 197br(d); Greek by the Inscriptions Painter Challidian
ELIA: 119br; Felton Bequest (1956) 66bl;
Janice English: 203t, 203bl, 204c, 204b; National Historical Museum: 52–3(d), 53tl, 54bl;
Esperas: 317tr; Antonis Nicolopoulos: 346cla, 347tr.
ET Archive: National Archaeology Museum,
Naples 44cla. Romylos Parisis: City of Athens Museum 52clb;
Patras Apartments: 309tl;
Ferens Art Gallery: Hull City Museums and Art Phaedra Hotel, Ydra: 308bl, 313tr;
Galleries and Archives Electra at the Tomb of Photoshot: Peter Erik Forsberg 369br; Mel
Agamemnon (1869), Lord Frederick Leighton 67br; Longhurst 157tl; Rob Wyatt 351bc;
Jamie Fewery: 122tr, 123tl, 123c; Pictures: 56crb, 346br;
Fotolia: KaYann 351tl. Private Collection: 291c.
Getty Images: Print Collector 44cb; Rex Features: Sipa Press/C Brown 55ca;
Giraudon, Paris: Chateau Ecouen Retour d’Ulysse Rex by Shutterstock: Universal Images
Ecole Siennoise 97cl; Louvre Paris 72cl, Scène de Group/PHAS 72br, 73bl; Universal Images
Massacres de Scio, Eugene Delacroix 52ca(d), Group/Universal History Archive 64tr, 66tr;
157br(d); Musée Nationale Gustave Moreau Hesiode Robert Harding Picture Library: David Beatty
et Les Muses, Gustave Moreau 68cla; Musée d’Art 56br; Sue Daly 34cla; Tony Gervis 56bl; Alan
Catalan, Barcelona 299br; James 34tr; Phil Robinson 8–9; Tuul 21br; Adam
La Gorgona: 333tr; Woolfitt 58c.
Nicholas P Goulandris Foundation Museum
of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art: 221tl, 221tc, Scala, Florence: Gallerie degli Uffizi 40clb;
221tr, 221cl, 221cr, 294bl, 301ca; Museo Archeologico, Firenze 41tl; Museo
Ronald Grant Archive: Zorba the Greek, 20th Mandralisca Cefalu 42cla; Museo Nationale
Century Fox 286bl.; Tarquinia 73bc; Museo de Villa Giulia 40–41, 72tr;
Grecotel Amirandes: 309br, 310tr. Selene: 321br;
Spectrum Colour Library: 264tr;
Helio Photo: 108ca; Hellenic Post Service: Maria Stefossi: 30bl;
55cla, 259tl; SuperStock: age fotostock/Juan Carlos Muñoz
Hellenic War Museum, Athens: 261tl; 190clb; Album/Oronoz/Album 48clb, 50clb.
Historical Museum of Crete, Irákleio: Landscape
of the Gods-Trodden Mount Sinai, El Greco 278tr; TAP (Service Archaeological Receipts Fund)
Hotel Andreas: 316bc; Hellenic Republic Ministry of Culture:
Hulton Getty Collection: 53crb(d); Central 1st Epharat of Antiquities 55tc, 70br, 298cl, 298br,
Press Photo 54clb(d). 299tl, 299cb; Acropolis Museum 300cla, 300tr;
Andros Archaeological Museum 218c; 2nd Epharat
Ideal Photo SA: A Pappas 245tr; C Vergas 57br, of Antiquities 76bl, 108tl, 108clb, 108br, 109tc,
58tr, 93bl, 127bc; 109cra; Chalkida Archaeological Museum 5tc,
Images Colour Library: 280bl; 130c; Chania Archaeological Museum 263c;
ISIC: 352ca; Corfu Archaeological Museum 79t, 89cl;
iStockphoto.com: © Brianna May 22tr; Eretreia Archaeological Museum 5t, 129bl,
Hipproductions 65cr; Jelenajojic 23tr; Nelic 131c; 5th Epharat of Byzantine Antiquities 49ca;
101cla; Saso Novoselic 136bl. 14th Epharat of Byzantine Antiquities 147tc, 154br;
4th Epharat of Byzantine Antiquities 28c, 175tc,
Carol Kane: 208br; 175cr, 175br, 209clb; 18th Epharat of Antiquities
Gulia Klimi: 59tr; 138tr, 139tr, 139br; 19th Epharat of Antiquities
Kostos Kontos: 5clb, 38cra, 54cra, 54cla, 57crb, 142bl, 143cla, 143crb; Irakleio Archaeological
60c, 173br, 174cl, 198br, 303br, 347crb, 355c.; Museum 276bl, 280tr, 280cla, 280cl, 280cb, 281tl,
Kriti Restaurant, Athens: 339br; 281cr, 282br; 20th Epharat of Antiquities 145bc;
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 395
21st Epharat of Antiquities 77tl, 166tl, 166c, 228clb, Travel Library: Faltaits Museum 126tr;
229cra, 229cr, 229bl, 229br, 240cla, 250crb, 251crb, Yannis Tsarouchis Foundation: Private Collection
342cla; 22nd Epharat of Antiquities 181b, 182cla, Barber Shop in Marousi, Yannis Tsarouchis (1947) 54tr;
190cla, 196tr, 196bl 196bc, 197tl, 197cr, 206cr; Tsipouradiki: 328bc.
23rd Epharat of Antiquities 231c, 259cra, 273cr,
274cr, 274bc, 275 all, 276tr, 276br, 277 all, 282tr,
282cra, 282bl, 283tl, 283crb, 283br, 284 all, 285tr, Villa Melina: 314tr.
285b; 24th Epharat of Antiquities 287cl; Kos
Archaeological Museum 182br; Milos Lorraine Wilson: 76br;
Archaeological Museum 246tr; Mykonos Peter Wilson: 71bl, 77br, 298cla;
Archaeological Museum 224tr; National Brian Woodyatt: 28b.
Archeological Museum, Athens 40tr, 251bc, 296c;
Naxos Archaeological Museum 240tr; Nea Moni
Front Endpaper
Archaeological Museum 77ca; Numismatic
4Corners: SIME/Johanna Huber Ltr; Alamy Images:
Museum of Athens 285cl; Rhodes Archaeological
Museum 194cb; Vathy Archaeological Museum, Dennis MacDonald Ltc; Hercules Milas Lbc, Rcr, Rtc;
Samos 164cra; 2nd Epharat of Byzantine Antiquities Robert Harding World Imagery/Tuul Lcl; AWL
223c, 231tc, 234tc, 237br, 261c; 7th Epharat of Images: Travel Pix Collection Lbl; Getty Images: J.
Byzantine Antiquities 119tl; 6th Epharat of Alemañ Rtr.
Byzantine Antiquities 99c; Thessaloniki
Archaeological Museum 43tl; 3rd Epharat of Cover
Byzantine Antiquities 162tl, 163cl, 165br; 13th
Front and spine – Alamy Stock Photo: Jan
Epharat of Byzantine Antiquities 160–61 all, 271cra,
Wlodarczyk.
287bl, 289tl; Tinos Archaeological Museum 222tr;
3rd Epharat of Antiquities 297bl;
Teriade Museum: Dafnis and Chloe, Marc Chagall All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further
©ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2011 148br; information see: www.dkimages.com
Phrase Book
There is no universally accepted system for os, on and f spelling, in keeping with the
representing the modern Greek language modern system of transliteration. In a
in the Roman alphabet. The system of few cases, such as Socrates, the more
transliteration adopted in this guide is the familiar Latin form has been used. Classical
one used by the Greek government. Though names do not have accents. Where a well-
not yet fully applied throughout Greece, known English form of a name exists, such
most of the street and place names have as Athens or Corfu, this has been used.
been transliterated according to this system. Variations in transliteration are given
For Classical names this guide uses the k, in the index.