RE - Diy Dance Floors

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at_leo_87 -> diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:37:03)
ok, so here are the dance floors i made. nothing fancy but i hope they give some ideas for those who plan to make
their own.
so i started off with cheap 1/2 inch plywood. i didn't bother getting anything nice because i didn't want to spend too
much and these things look like a battlefield after only two dance sessions.
here's the big one. i used hinges to attach it but as you can see, it's not that flush, but it's not bad enough that the
dancer would even notice.
Images are resized automatically to a maximum width of 800px
at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:38:22)
here's the smaller one. i used velcro to put this one together.
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now here are the shock absorbing rubber mats i was talking about. and you can see the velcro.
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i rounded the sides so there wouldn't be a hard edge.
Exitao -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 23:29:57)
In the first one, you say the hinges get in the way. I can't tell from the pic, did you try notching the wood to make
space for the hinges?
A chisel or strong sharp knife (like a drywall knife or a wood carving knife) should work fine.
The shock absorbing mats - are you using them to muffle sound, or prevent transference to the floor below? Or just
protect the floor under the plywood?
I only ask because I would have thought that a portable pista would want to amplify the sounds of zapateo.
If it's just to protecting the floor, you could go to a carpet/flooring place an see about buying some end-of-roll
underlay. It could be cheaper and the underlay used for hardwood flooring would be less... bouncy.
Are you using a spray-on adhesive to attach the mat?
the hinges don't really get in the way. it's just the way hinges work, it makes one side slightly higher than the other. i
compensated for this by alternating which side got the higher side. it's hard to explain. ideally the hinges should be on
the bottom, not in between but it wouldn't be able to fold if it was on the bottom due to the rubber mats.
i used the shock absorbing mats so the board wouldn't slip, to protect the floor underneath, but most importantly, to
give some shock absorption for the dancer's body, especially the knees. it's the next best thing when a dance studio
with sprung floors isn't available.
the 1/2 inch plywood is actually really loud. we didn't even have to mic up the floor, it just bled into the microphones
we used for guitar and palmas. so it's probably not suitable for practice actually, more for performance. i'm going to
make another one with 1/4 wood and see if it's quieter.
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the loudness of the wood combined with the shock absorption makes it a lot easier for the dancer to perform without
getting tired.
i used a dab of gorilla glue for each of the little "puzzle" pieces. i'm sure any all purpose glue would work, it's just
what i had.
So it was actually for ergonomic factors. Interesting. I'm a fan if all kinds of DIY.
However, look around at various wooden doors, even folding closet doors and you'll see how a knife or chisel can
make your hinges work a little better (or, even better, a router if you have access, which it looks like you do).
Although I think your velcro is probably easier.
I think your rounded edges is a good idea. It looks better and they will last longer and be less likely to splinter; which
would be a literal pain when it comes to transporting them.
I suspect 1/4" ply won't last very long for your purposes and wouldn't recommend going thinner than 5/8" I was
wondering why you didn't try a 3/4" ply.
For deadening sound, that's where the hardwood floor underlay would probably be the most help.
You are using two full sheets of 4x8 plywood? Or what are settling on for the smaller pistes?
Ailsa -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 2:59:21)
Looks like you did a nice job - even rounding the corners! You are quite a craftsman - a careful piece of work. How
does Lauren find dancing on it? And what are the dimensions of the finished floor?
i'm too lazy to get up and look at a door but i think i know what you're talking about now exitao. i'll check it out for
future floors.
i have to think of an easier way to transport them. i think if i use velcro, i can section it into four pieces instead of only
two.
i was going to use 3/4 but instead, chose 1/2 because the girl said she needed to carry it around a lot. i thought i was
making a compromise between portability and strength but when we tested it out, found out that 1/2 inch is actually
bordering overkill. the next one im making is for an older lady with bad knees, so i'm going to try 1/4.
for the big one, i used a 4x8 sheet and cut it down to two 2x6 strips making the whole dance floor 4x6. the small ones
are 3x4 which is plenty for practice, i think. it's much larger than other commercial dance floors (which are usually
made for tap and are way too weak).
lauren has one bad knee. while she dances on it, she doesn't notice any pain. she doesn't like doing footwork too loud
because it's too much for her knee but with this board, i was almost having a little difficulty keeping up with her.
another dancer told me that this board exaggerates all the sound of the feet so it makes it sound like she's better than
she actually is. so that's why i think it might not be good for practice but more for performance. i hope the 1/4 won't
be as loud.
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I thought it looked like 2' rips, but I wasn't sure of the length or the camera angle. 2'x6' makes sense.
For ease of transportation you could try making it out of 3 pieces in a configuration like this =| if you can take my
meaning. Probably fit better on a dolly or luggage stroller thingy too.
I haven't done much work with 1/4' ply (only ever used 1/4" paper-face for forming curbs and architectural concrete
jobs), but I've had to pack enough to think that it always feels really flimsy.
I would be concerned that with the kind of padding you're using underneath a 1/4" piece of ply, it's going to crack
under the zapateo.
I could be wrong, you'll just have to put one together and get someone to go ape on it to find out.
Maybe depends on the girl too.
If it is too fragile, you could try a different underlay, without so much give the ply should hold up better, but you'll
lose your ergonomic benefit.
I'm also unsure of how thickness should affect volume. So I'll be interested to hear about your results and with the
1/4" material.
quote:
I'm also unsure of how thickness should affect volume. So I'll be interested to hear about your results and with the
1/4" material.
i can't really explain it but i can imagine it in my head. oh boy, there's just so much in my head that never makes it to
the outside world. [8|]
i've been procrastinating but i'm going to go make it right now.
i still haven't figured a way to incorporate sound ports. [:-]
XXX -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 13:40:15)
Dude, thats cool! I personally like the click sound of thin wood plates, coz makes the sound of the feet more seperated
than rather just elefant clomping (my english is not so good). Now im curious though, what do you do for a living?
Something with wood?
quote:
Dude, thats cool! I personally like the click sound of thin wood plates, coz makes the sound of the feet more seperated
than rather just elefant clomping (my english is not so good). Now im curious though, what do you do for a living?
Something with wood?
yeah, i know exactly what you mean. i like when the footwork is sharp.
i've actually been through a number of jobs and haven't settled on anything that i really enjoyed doing. i dont know
how i live. [:-]
i just work with wood as a hobby and i make random things once in awhile for some gas/beer/entertainment money.
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veet -> RE: diy dance floors (May 16 2010 13:44:17)
other things I've seen done well-

1. use 1x3 or 1x2 battens underneath the ply as a frame (also creates airspace under the board.) Just use short
drywall screws to fasten the ply to battens, makes a smooth and even joint. This means carrying a Makita to gigs, but
is well worth it.
2. for durability, use 1/2 inch MDO (medium density overlay) instead of plywood. It's flatter, harder, and stands up to
tons of abuse. Costs more but will last forever.
mark indigo -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 5:33:32)
quote:
the shock absorbing rubber mats i was talking about
what are these? where can you get them from?
how many hinges have you got joining the two pieces of board together?
also, how do you round the edges of the boards?
We have a 4' by 8' sheet of 3/4" ply in our kitchen, laid on top of stone tile floor.
It's so loud i use a small amp to hear myself over the sound of just one dancer!
It's also really heavy to move anywhere, and the edges have just got some gaffer tape on them. I would like to
make/get something more portable.
The shock absorbers can be found in stores that supply exercise equipment, maybe business/contractor oriented
hardware stores too (they are sometimes used in workplaces where people have to stand in one place for a long
time). Maybe Leo got his in a different place...
From the roundness of the edge, I guess he used a router.
If you can't get access to a router, you could use a skil saw and adjust the angle of the blade to bevel the edge (not
as pretty, but more functional than nothing and can help with the trip hazard aspect). Of course this makes a sharper
edge for carrying.
cool suggestions, veet. thanks!

i don't know about a harder material though. plywood is as hard it is. we have to factor in ergonomics.
we just did a show yesterday with the 1/2 dance floor and the sound filled up the auditorium and was louder than the
guitar amp.
i also finished the 1/4 one. we haven't tested it yet but i bet it's going to be just fine. now i got some tap dancers
interested in buying one.
mark,
i got the rubber things here. i think they're really necessary. i hear a lot of stories about dancers having to get knee
surgery and having to give up altogether because of knee problems.
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http://www.sportsauthority.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2927171&cp=3077568.3077629.2049960.714802&
parentPage=family
it's 12mm thick and covers 12 sq. ft. these things come in various sizes, prices, and thicknesses. check with your local
sports store.
i used four hinges to connect them. but hinges come apart, and i'm starting to think velcro is a much better option.
for the edges, exitao is correct, i used a router. if you want to waste time and give your arms a work out, you can just
use a sanding block and sandpaper.
[:D]
cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 19:58:33)
OK, here is another DIY floor using Ikea "Tundra" floor - a cheap laminate, but the strongest most durable laminate
flooring they sell. I glued it with contact cement to a 1/4" hardboard. I used a table saw and a circular saw to trim the
edges. Both pieces are about 2 feet by 4 feet. From one package of Tundra flooring, I have enough left over to make
another 2 feet by 4 feet section.
My plan is to join it together with Velcro as Anthony suggested.
I didn't bother with a bottom pad because my wife practices on a carpet, and for the fact of the fatal flaw...
The fatal flaw: The Ikea flooring cannot take the nails on the bottom of flamenco shoes and it chips - as there is no real
wood, it will look awful in no time. My wife will tape the bottom of her shoes to use it. I will take a photo of my wife and I
using it one day soon... :)
But as a proof of concept, it works very well. I think my next floor will be the same concept, except I will use a hardwood
floor, probably 1/4" of wood on laminate to keep it light, it will be plenty durable then, it will get dented and marked but
at least it will be all wood on the surface.
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Here is a side view...
Here is the underside...
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nice work, chris! the wood looks pretty. what's hardboard? is it that cork like material? that's a good idea.
don't they install that under floors sometimes for sound and heat insulation and for some shock absorption?
cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 19 2010 23:52:01)
Just an update on the floor durability... was thinking about this and Anthony's recent post in the luthier's section
reminded me...
The ikea laminate flooring continues to chip from the nails in the shoes (the fatal flaw).
However, another problem is that the floor is sensitive to humidity, and in low winter humidity the hardboard shrinks
more than the top laminate so the panel tends to sit on the outside short edge and bulge up from the floor by 1/2" or
so. So my floor is warped also but slowly flattens out as humidity increases - it is self healing!
So I would not recommend using hardboard as a substrate for gluing laminate flooring - there is not enough structural
ridgidity and it is sensitive to humidity. Plywood is better.
Oh and to Anthony's old question, the hardboard is basically a pulp glued and pressed together. It is cheap fake wood
that is closer to cardboard than wood. I think it is mainly used as a backer board behind furniture like the back of an
ikea wood drawer or ikea shelves etc. It also is what the laminate flooring is mainly made from. Not recommended!
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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 20 2010 2:42:59)
an update on mine, the velcro comes off of the wood sometimes so it needs to be stapled down.
the wood is sufficiently thick enough but i may use thicker wood for the next one just so it wont warp as easily.
i plan to use pegs to attach the pieces together, so i may be able to cut the wood into smaller sections and make it
more portable.
more on that later!
a_arnold -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 20 2010 23:43:03)
I have heard of people using salvaged hollow core doors with masonite laid on top of them. Still a problem of how to
hinge them.
I made one from a 4x8x1/2" plywood with 1"x2" spacer underneath to raise it off the floor and give it spring. For
portability I cut it into 3 pieces (48x32") that clip together, held by bungee cords underneath when in use. Broken
down, it fits in the back seat of a car.
I wanted to hinge them together but I couldn't solve the problem of having the hinge pin above the top surface, which
made it a trip hazard. So I went with the bungee solution so everything is flush.
I know there are flush (hidden cabinet) hinges available that fold 180 degrees, but the ones I have found would
require a very thick platform.
quote:
For portability I cut it into 3 pieces (48x32") that clip together, held by bungee cords underneath when in use.
hey a_arnold, any possibility of seeing a picture and more detailed explanation of this? im having trouble coming up
with an idea to hold the pieces together so that they're perfectly flush and stable.
mark indigo -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 0:16:18)
quote:
held by bungee cords underneath when in use
how does that work? i don't know what they (bungee cords) are?
veet -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 1:05:48)
http://www.rovingfestival.com/equipmentlist/Bungee-Cords-BTGA041-.jpg
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quote:
how does that work? i don't know what they (bungee cords) are?
They are rubber or elastic cords with a hook on each end. Normally they are used to tie stuff down to truck beds
during transportation. Or for bungee jumping.
Here is a pic of the assembled deck from the bottom with the (black rubber) bungee cords in place. It is a single 4x8
piece of plywood cut into thirds. There is a 1x2 inch support in the middle of each piece and around the edge of each
piece. The edges where the assembled pieces join have an overlapping joint to keep the edges flush (see second pic
detail below).
The bungee cords fit into the 1 inch space under the plywood so they don't create a fulcrum.
quote:
any possibility of seeing a picture and more detailed explanation of this? im having trouble coming up with an idea to
hold the pieces together so that they're perfectly flush and stable.
Here is a closeup of the joint that I used to keep the pieces flush:
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Neither piece can move up or down relative to the other when it is fitted together by the removable bungee cords.
Cool stuff. I like your joint. How does the front look?
Another idea I was thinking is using marine plywood (7 ply in 1/2") with a nice surface decorative hardwood. This
beats the 5 ply stuff with marine glues so it should be more warp resistant.
Expensive but probably worth it in the long run...
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quote:
How does the front look?
...
Expensive but probably worth it in the long run...
By front, I assume you mean top.
I don't have clamps with enough throat to reach the middle of the plywood, so I used titebond glue and screwed the
pieces on with screws countersunk from the top. I initially planned on removing the screws after the glue set, but
being countersunk, they weren't a trip hazard so it was easier to leave them there.
I thought about marine plywood, but decided that with the edge pieces to keep it from warping, half-inch CDX would
be fine, and it has been. I put a couple of coats of urethane on the top to make it more durable. Our dancers use nails
in their shoes and this has been through a year's worth of gigs without visible wear.
I think it is easier to just let it wear out and make a new one than to sink extra money into it. One thing I will do is
put a strip of old carpet on the bottom of the 1x2" strips to make it lie flatter. We use it in venues where the floor is
concrete or tile, and if the floor is a little uneven it can create a fulcrum that gives the platform a slight rock. Carpet
evens that out. At the moment I am putting it on a piece of carpet, but strips glued on will make it less hassle to
move around.
Also, after this one wears out, I am going to make ALL the edges with identical interlocking joints so an indefinite
number of interchangeable 48x32 inch pieces can be fitted together to make the platform as big as needed. That way,
several dancers can each keep several pieces at home for practice and bring it with them to make a really big floor
(bigger than 4x8) when we need it for a gig. The only downside to that is the edge that isn't joined will look a bit
rough with those finger joints sticking out. So I'll make a removable edge cap to make it look finished.
One assembled 4x8 piece is big enough for a Sevillanas pair or a single solo dancer.
tony, that is brilliant! thanks for taking the time to take pictures.
do you think with the foam padding i use, the floor will become unstable? or it might become slippery causing the floor
to slide around?
another concern i have is that this will make the floor more lifted off the ground. in case a dancer drinks too much and
gets too intense, she might fall off the edge to her oblivion...
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quote:
do you think with the foam padding i use, the floor will become unstable? or it might become slippery causing the floor
to slide around?
Depends on how thick the padding is. I use a piece of scrap wall-to-wall carpet and it works fine. I figure a floor won't
be more than 1/4" out of true anyway.
quote:
another concern i have is that this will make the floor more lifted off the ground. in case a dancer drinks too much and
gets too intense, she might fall off the edge to her oblivion...
On my platform, the dance surface is 1.25 inches off the floor. If the dancer is going to trip on the edge, I expect it
will be because she forgot where the floor was rather than misjudging an extra 1/2 inch.
But we wouldn't want her to fall to her oblivion. She might break it.
[;)]
Thanks! Some good ideas there...
quote:
They are rubber or elastic cords with a hook on each end. Normally they are used to tie stuff down to truck beds
during transportation.
i know them - i can see from your pic - i didn't know they were called bungee cords.
at the moment we just have a 4x8 board of ply on the floor, which is ok but not portable. I got some of those rubber
mats antony recommended to put underneath. A friend has recommended using batons like in tony's pic above, and
was telling me various ways he used to fix the boards together.
also he showed me some birch ply which has more layers than normal ply. it is denser and stronger without being so
thick, but is heavy. at the moment we are not desperate for a portable version, so all these ideas are just going in the
pot for thinking about!
quote:
he showed me some birch ply which has more layers than normal ply. it is denser and stronger without being so thick,
but is heavy.
And expensive. The 1/2" CDX plywood I used was $14 at lowes. I figured that whatever I used, it would be damaged
badly by the nails in the shoes. I have been pleasantly surprised at how durable the CDX plywood has been with a
couple of coats of urethane on it.
Honestly, it will get so much abuse, I don't think there is any reason to use expensive plywood.
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i try to find good looking wood and take my time and sand these floors until they're smooth as butter. i dont know
why i bother, they just get annihilated. [&:][:o]
i checked out a 1/4 inch thick dance floor i made today. it's scruffed up but it's still structurally solid like the day i
made it. anyone thinking about making one just for home use, 1/4 inch thick wood may be good enough.
Doitsujin -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 23 2010 10:37:26)
quote:
diy dance floors
I don´t care... if there is a chair without armrests.[:-]
quote:
sand these floors until they're smooth as butter.
Smooth as butter might not be the best option for a dancer . . .
quote:
i try to find good looking wood and take my time and . . .
A very wise person once told me that doing a thing well can, sometimes, be a waste of time.
quote:
1/4 inch thick wood may be good enough.
Interesting. What kind of support is under it? Doesn't it flex? Or does it have that rubber mat under it? And how do
you hold the pieces together?
3 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
hey tony,
i sand them smooth but the polyurethane coating i put on makes it "grippy" again.
under the 1/4 inch thick dance floor, i used that 12mm thick rubber foam mat you can see on the first page. the two
pieces are held together by velcro.
she uses the dance floor on carpet, which adds even more to the shock absorbing value.[8|] it doesn't flex! or in any
noticeable way. but this particular dancer has pretty light footwork.
i'm wondering if the 12mm rubber mat will be too much for a dance floor with your interlocking design? i want to use
it for ergonomics but i'm afraid it'll make the dance floor too high off the ground or unstable.
quote:
very wise person once told me that doing a thing well can, sometimes, be a waste of time.
if it's really worth doing, it's worth doing badly....
val -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 24 2010 1:57:15)
Hi Anthony
At home we have polished hardwood blocks laid on concrete throughout the ground floor and I lay a sheet of dance
vinyl over an area to protect it. I decided one reason I don't practise enough is because the floors are too hard.
Your posts have inspired me. I've totally cleared out a room and have layed a floating floor on top. Finished it just a
few days ago.
Base - large sheets of 12mm rough ply, with expanded rubber sponge blocks (self adhesive backing) laid at approx
30cm intervals on the side in contact with the floor. For 140 blocks 50mm x 50mm x 20mm it cost me about £50
including VAT and delivery from an industrial supplier in North London. Anyone want to know where to get them from
PM for contact details.
It took me a while to find someone who could supply what I wanted. Apparently the grade normally recommended for
this purpose is EV50. It's slightly softer than the stuff I used, but would have cost a whole lot more because I would
have needed to buy the remains of the large sheet it was cut from. The guy did send me a sample of each and what
I've got is fine.
Top - 6mm hardwood ply (cabinet quality) laid in the opposite direction to the base and screwed to the base at about
25cm intervals (countersunk screws, but not filled because I want to keep the screws accessible).
Polished the top layer with Osmo Oil so it can be mopped over, then loose laid my vinyl over the top.
It's nearly 4cm high and because of the system-built construction of my 60s house I had a problem with the door. It
opens inwards - the door frames are steel and the door can't be reversed. My husband very kindly agreed to allow me
to chop the bottom off the door. The things we do for art!
I need to make some sort of ramp otherwise there's going to be a nasty accident soon - every member of the family
has tripped on the new step.
The floor is really great. Not portable, but I now have a decent home studio and no excuses. There is nothing screwed
to the original floor, which is fully protected by the rubber pads and we've put the bottom of the door away safely.
Anytime I give up dancing for good, or move house, we can lift the floor, glue the door back together and leave
everything as we found it.
4 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
hey val,
that sounds great! very crafty! that must have been a simple job compared to all the remodeling you did.
do you have a picture of what those rubber blocks look like?
ergonomics are so important! i was sore and tired after trying to learn that sevillanas!
guitar is so much easier. [:)]
maybe you can add these so people won't trip. [:D]
quote:
under the 1/4 inch thick dance floor, i used that 12mm thick rubber foam mat you can see on the first page. the two
pieces are held together by velcro.
Is the velcro enough to keep the two edges flush with each other so there isn't a trip hazard?
I like your use of the interlocking dance floor. I wonder if there is a way to use the interlocking feature to hold the
pieces together and flush.
Why did you cut the 4x8 plywood lengthwise into 2x8 pieces (rather than shorter pieces that would fit in a car)?
Maybe portability was less of an issue than the ability to store it?
quote:
if it's really worth doing, it's worth doing badly....
[:D]
quote:
Is the velcro enough to keep the two edges flush with each other so there isn't a trip hazard?
the adhesive backing wore out eventually after heavy use and i had to staple it to the floor. it worked fine unless the
wood got warped, that's why i want to try your idea for the heavy duty one we drag to various gigs.
quote:
Why did you cut the 4x8 plywood lengthwise into 2x8 pieces (rather than shorter pieces that would fit in a car)? Maybe
portability was less of an issue than the ability to store it?
thin, long strips are easier to carry than two 4x4 boards. plus, the 2x8 pieces fit more easily into my small suv when
5 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
my amp and other equipment are in there as well.
but with your design, i'll be able to cut them into even smaller pieces.
here's how the updated dance floor is looking. all the wood are different colors because they're from different sources
bought from different times. i gave up trying to make it look pretty. these things get destroyed in 15 minutes.
im still considering adding some foam padding to the bottom.
here it is broken down.
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val -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 30 2010 11:54:30)
quote:
do you have a picture of what those rubber blocks look like?
Hi Anthony
Your "large floor" looks great. Here's mine, which could be better finished - edged at the walls etc, but I don't want to
damage existing woodwork.
I've included pics of the rubber blocks I used. The guy I bought them from will cut to any size, any thickness. They
also have a very powerful self-adhesive face which saves messing about with glue.
I read somewhere that it's best to spread out blocks rather than use a solid sheet of foam - in fact, the professional
produced floors seem to be done that way (look at the Harlequin Liberty spec)
7 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
quote:
here it is broken down.
Brilliant!
3 questions:
(1) are the pieces interchangeable?

(2) it looks like the "tongues" that stick out on the edge will interlock to keep the edges flush. Is that right? So you
don't always have to use all the pieces? But then if you use only part of the floor (say, at a gig with limited space)
then the unused "tongues" stick out on the edge?
(3) what keeps the pieces from drifting apart during use? I used bungee cords, but you may have a different solution.
I really like the idea!
val, that looks great! if it wasn't raised, i would just think that's your normal floor.
i'll keep your advice to use spread out blocks in mind for my next project.
tony,
1, the pieces are interchangeable. either of the middle pieces (width or length) can be taken out)
2, the tongues keep the edges flush. if you remove only the inner pieces, no tongues will stick out
3, i also used bungees! though in the picture, i didn't attach them using bungees yet.
this is a picture i took before i attached the bungees. if i take out either the B or C pieces, there will be no tongues
sticking out. so i can make the board, 6x8, 4x8, 6x6, 4x4.
8 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
i'm testing the board tomorrow for a new year's gig. i think there's even space to stick a microphone underneath!
Leo, why do you put so much effort into this dance floor? I thought you play the guitar?.....
Ron.M -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 30 2010 21:18:03)
quote:
Leo, why do you put so much effort into this dance floor? I thought you play the guitar?.....
Probably because it's a difficult problem to solve, he has an inquisitive mind, plus a practical ability and it will help his
colleagues in his Dance Company.
Probably the same reason you mess around with microscopes and test tubes and stuff, even though you play guitar.
Yeah?
cheers,
Ron
9 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
quote:
Yeah?
Yes Ron you are right..... women and technics.... Better leo cares about the floor....[8D]
Chiste de Gales -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 30 2010 23:10:36)
Leo- Do you have a sound recording you can post of dancing on this floor?
hey doit,
i do it because i want us to have good shows. if the dancer looks and sounds bad, then the group looks bad. if the
group looks bad, i look bad. [&:]
but it does take up valuable practice time and is bad for the hands and nails. [:o]
chiste, i just finished it. haven't even really put it through a full test yet. but i had my girlfriend work around on it and
it was pretty loud, even on carpet flooring.
quote:
i do it because i want us to have good shows.
Exactly. Here's a good example of why one might need a floor like this:
Last month our group (Corazon Flamenco) did a gig at a hall we have played before. The last time we performed
there, it had great lighting, a huge wooden stage, a great sound system, technical assistance, and a huge audience.
This time they told us proudly that the facility was "even better" with lots of improvements and the crowd was even
bigger. When we got there the morning of the gig for a dress rehearsal (6 dancers, palmeros, cajon, singer, 2
guitarists), we discovered that the "big improvement" was a brand new rubber soundproof floor on the stage! It
ruined the performance. I could barely hear the dancers' feet, and in the long dresses, could barely see them.
We didn't bring our floor with us because we were so sure the (previously) excellent stage was still wood. A wood floor
overlay like this would have saved the day.
Also, it is risky to dance on a concrete floor (shinsplints), and many many (most) restaurants have tile or concrete
floors.
Of course, if you give up accompaniment to perform strictly solo, you don't have these worries.
at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Jan. 3 2011 16:59:11)
quote:
10 of 11 5/10/2018, 4:42 PM
Of course, if you give up accompaniment to perform strictly solo, you don't have these worries.
or just have someone else do the work. [:D]
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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Feb. 21 2011 17:47:31)
this is for mark. i forgot to add a picture of the finished underside.
there is one rubber strap missing and pluto and the hand sanitizer are there for weighing down on the rubber pads while
the glue was drying.
rogeliocan -> RE: diy dance floors (Apr. 29 2012 15:18:16)
Hi, so how did this floor turn out?

I think the greatest thing about this is how you don't have to go around with large sheets of wood on your roof.
Thanks
1 of 3 5/10/2018, 4:47 PM
at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Apr. 29 2012 21:45:37)
the floor is still in business! it got so scruffed up that i had to spray paint it black though.
but otherwise, it's loud, durable, reliable, forgiving on the joints,... some of the dancers i work with won't dance
without it.
if i need it to be even louder, i can even stick a boundary mic underneath.
rogeliocan -> RE: diy dance floors (Jan. 14 2013 17:51:02)
In this thread, it is suggested to finish the floor with 2 coats of urethane.

I am bit (ok, quite) confused between what is urethane, polyurethane and varnish with urethane.
What product am I looking for to put on this floor, 2 coats of what?
Thanks
at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Jan. 14 2013 21:38:20)
you have to use micro mesh. from 2400 progressively up to 12000. do a coat of hot tar, then cut back a little and go
from 6000 to 12000.
j/k
[:D]
just experiment. i mean, it's going to get stomped and demolished. does it really matter? just make sure it's not
slippery.
la_ali_flamenco -> RE: diy dance floors (Jul. 2 2013 0:33:37)
These floor ideas are great! I can't wait to give it a shot. I think I might try putting velcro on 2x4s and the underside
of the floor and then laying them across the width of the stage as a way of bracing them. This should also create an
airpocket beneath for amplification and a "sprung floor" effect that is easy on the dancer's body.
Anyone have updated floor ideas or pictures?
Leñador -> RE: diy dance floors (Jul. 2 2013 1:57:13)
I've been talking about doing something nice for my girlfriend for a while now [:D] Maybe I'll get started on that.
Right now I've just got 2 sheets of birch ply sitting on the floor. I feel like 'cus I'm a carpenter/contractor it's gotta be
amazing so the amount of work I want to put into it discourages me a little. [:D]
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diy dance floors (Full Version)

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at_leo_87 -> diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:37:03)

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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:38:22)

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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:41:33)

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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 22:43:33)

i rounded the sides so there wouldn't be a hard edge.

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Exitao -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 23:29:57)

Are you using a spray-on adhesive to attach the mat?

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 14 2010 23:47:02)

Exitao -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 1:29:18)

Ailsa -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 2:59:21)

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 5:33:37)

Exitao -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 11:51:39)

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 13:33:30)

i've been procrastinating but i'm going to go make it right now.

i still haven't figured a way to incorporate sound ports. [:-]

XXX -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 13:40:15)

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 15 2010 17:31:16)

veet -> RE: diy dance floors (May 16 2010 13:44:17)

other things I've seen done well-

the shock absorbing rubber mats i was talking about

what are these? where can you get them from?

also, how do you round the edges of the boards?

Exitao -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 7:51:09)

From the roundness of the edge, I guess he used a router.

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 8:32:21)

cool suggestions, veet. thanks!

cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 19:58:33)

My plan is to join it together with Velcro as Anthony suggested.

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cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 20:04:52)

Here is a side view...

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cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (May 18 2010 20:07:10)

Here is the underside...

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at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (May 19 2010 6:09:18)

cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 19 2010 23:52:01)

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 20 2010 2:42:59)

more on that later!

a_arnold -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 20 2010 23:43:03)

at_leo_87 -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 0:05:17)

held by bungee cords underneath when in use

veet -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 1:05:48)

a_arnold -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 2:27:59)

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a_arnold -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 2:29:27)

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cathulu -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 3:11:17)

Expensive but probably worth it in the long run...

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a_arnold -> RE: diy dance floors (Dec. 21 2010 3:46:29)

How does the front look?

Expensive but probably worth it in the long run...