Southern Roadcraft Ltd.

The Shell Garage, 37 Albion Street,

Brighton, Sussex, BN4. 4DN.
Tel . No.

Assembly
Manual

N
SRVS Roadster
 sR v8 BUILD MANUAL UPDATE FBBRIIARY 1994

Please note the following amenclments to the SR VB build manual.

Page2. We are now implementing the Jaguar Series 2 steering column as availability of
the Series I has become limited.

Page 2. The MGB master cylinder and servo can now he replaced with a Ford unit
specially assembled for Southern Roadcraft.

Page 3. It is now lnore common to use an American engine and gearbox such as the
Cheuolet 350 or Ford 302 or 351. Any small block V8 engino can be used and most
big block engines can be catered for by special request. The Rover V8 engine and
gearbox is still suitable although now less popular. Roadcraft Repower, our engine
department, can assist with all your engine enquiries. As an Edelbrock main dealer we
are able to supply all parts for uprating performance etc.

Fig. 7. The Jaguar anti roll bar keeper plate is no longer requirod. All fittings are
available in the Southern Roadcraft anti roll bar kit.

Page 9. An alurninium fuel tank is now available providing larger capacity and neater
fit. the fitting procedure is different to that laid out in the manual for the steel vercion.

Page 9. Ws now offer stainless steel panels as an alternative to aluminium. These

provide a longer lasting high polished finish.

Page 19. The original 3" side pipe system has now been replaced with a 4" stakiless
system with a four into one collector on the outside of the body.

Pagc 26. It is now possible to fit larger rear bulkhead speakers when fitting the
aluminium firel tank as special cut-outs are provided in ths tank.

Please check wirh us if you have any queries regarding updates.

 THE SR VB ROADSTER

Congratulations on your decision to purchase a Southern Roadcraft SR VB

Roadster. Whichever stage of build you have purchased we trust the
following information will provide for a straightforward and trouble
free bui1d. Should you require any further assistance please feel free
to contact your nearest Southern Roadcraft dealer or the factory direct.
The foll-owing sequence of instructions provided are for your reference
and are recommended for the home builder. It is the responsibility of
the home builder to check the accuracy of these instructions whilst
assembling the car. Every effort is made by the manufacturer to provide
all necessary assembly information and accuracy of parts supplied, although
Southern Roadcraft's policy of continual improvement may mean that sections
of these instructions may be outdated by redesigned parts.
If you are unsure about any aspect of your car's construction CONSULT A
QUALIFIED MOTOR ENGINEER. On completion of your vehicle the car should
be taken to a reputable garage and thoroughty examined before any road
use. Your insurance company may also require a separate engineers report.
recommend that you lully
IrrJe study the build up insl,ructions before
commencing the assembly of the car.
Please check and identlfy att parts supplied to you immediately and inform
your supplier within seven days should there by any discrepancies. If you
have purchased the kit in basic kit form you should have all the parts
listed below.
1. Chassis
2. Rear diff locator beam (I)
3. Radius rods including rose joints and lock nuts (2)
4. Door hinge (2)
5. Door hinge boxes (2)
6. Engine mounts (2)
7. Steering arms (2)
B. Track rod extenders(2)
9. Front lower shock absorber plates (2)
10. Clutch, brake and throttle pedals
11. Radiator lrame ( lower )
12. lladiul.or I'r'anre (upper)
13. Ijonne L lringe (2)
14. Bonnet hinge plate (2)
15. Nut and bolt kit (1)
' 16. Bodyshetl, bonnet, boot and doors
 SR VB ROADSTER

DONOR VEI{ICLES

The donor vehj.cle required is the Series 2 Jaguar XJ6 ( 1974 onwards with
four pot front calipers and ventilated front discs). The following items
should be retained:
1. A11 front suspension, discs and calipers, anti roll bar rubbers and
brackets. You do NOT require the subframe, steering rack, steering
arms, anti roll bar, front dampers, springs, lower spring seat.
N.B. You should keep and make note of all bolts etc. which you
remove as special bolts such as caliper bolts are NOT supplied in
the nut and bolt kit.
2. AI1 rear suspension with the foltowing exceptions. You do NOT
require the subframe, shock absorbers and springs ( although these
may be useful during the build up)
N.B. Do NOT discard the reducing sleeve found in the top bolt hole
of the rear shock absorber, these are used on the front suspension.
You do NOT require the radius arms which are bolted to the wishbone.
N.ll. Retai.n the bolts and lock washers.
The following il-ems require modification by SRC on an exchange basis. They
should be delivered free of dirt and grease and unpainted.
1. Rear wishbones and driveshafts (Please remove all UJs
bearings, grease nipples, etc. )
2. Propshaft (with UJs in place buL remove the sliding
sectlon ).
3. Seat runners ( in one piece as in the car ).
The majority of the running components used in the SR VB Roadster come from
the Series 2 Jaguar XJ6 as previously explained. There are different final
drive ratios available but when using a standard or mifdly tuned Rover V8
engine any ratio from 3.3:1 to 3.7:L would be suitable.
You will also require a Series 1 Jaguar XJ6 steering column together with
the indicator switch gear ( the Serles 2 is NOT suitable ), Jaguar propshaft
and seat runners.

The following components are used from a late type MGB (Rubber bumper model
1976 onwards ) :

1. Steering rack
2. Handbrake lever ratchet
3. Tandem type brake master cylinder and servo
 OBTAINING TI{E DONOR PARTS

There are various options open to you regarding obtaining the running
gear.

1. Buy a donor car, strip the parts required and sell- the remainder.
This is often the most economical way but can be time consuming.
2. Purchase the parts required already stripped from a breakers yard -
an easier option but transport can be a problem.

3. Purchase either secondhand or reconditioned units from SRC.

If you are stripping the vehicle yourself it is recommended to use parts

from a good donor car as this wil-I reduce the cost of reconditioning.
When selecting an engine and gearbox it is recommended to use the SDI Rover
VB engine and five speed gearbox as this unit bolts directly to our
standard chassis. However, it is possible to use a variety of power
units but it should be noted that alternative units could incur price
increases on the basic kit, interior carpets, exhaust. system and wiring.
Beware of purchasing an automatic engine with a view to converting it to
manual. Although the engine may be cheap and a five speed gearbox available
from a 2lOO or 2600 Rover, finding a secondhand beI} housing, clutch and
flywheel is rare and these items are expensive if purchased new. The
rubber engine mounts, gearbox mount and cross member, engine ancilliaries,
radiator and expansion tank should be retained. If reconditioning your
engine and gearbox you may find the Haynes Rover VB manuat useful (No.365).
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 CHASSIS BUILD.TJP

Your chassis is supplied in a ready state for build up. It is not

necessary to apply any addit,ional paint to the chassis. However, some
customers prefer to underseal and wax inject the unit.

The first stage of construction is to get the chassis mobife on the Jaguar
suspens ion .

Prace the chassis on 4 axle stands in order to make assembly easier.

FRONT SUSPENSION _ PREPARING THE PARTS

laJith the complete front subframe removed from the car, dismantle the
suspension units from the subframe.
N.B. Great care should be taken when dismantling the front suspension
as the Jaguar springs possess a great amount of energy due to their
compression.

These units are not required on the SR VB Roadster and so are often best
cut through TWICE with oxygen/acetylene cutting equipment. (Alternatively,
heavy duty spring compressors can be used). The lower wishbone pins are
often stuck in the front subframe and so may require the subframe to be
cut up in order to remove them. Take care when driftlng out t,he pins so as
not to damage l-tre thread. The individual parts can now be cleaned, painted
and reconditioned as necessary. The following parts are not required.
Subframe
FronL springs
Spring Platform (on lower wishbone)
Shock absorbers
Steering rack
Steering arms
Anti rolf bar
We recommend when dismantling the parts, that you store them in individual
plastic bags, laberred up accordingly in order to assist re-assembly.
Refer to Haynes Manual No. 478
throughout dismantling and re-assembly
(Available from Southern Roadcraft).
REAR SUSPENSION _ PREPARING TIIE PARTS

With the complete rear suspension removed from the car, dismantle the
differential and suspension from the cage. Clean and paint and re-
condition the units as required.
The foll-owing parts are not, required:
Rear cage
Shock absorbers and springs
Radius arms (keep all bolts)
FITTING fiIE SUSPENSION TO YOUR CHASSIS

REAR

Once the rear wishbone and driveshalts have been modified, assembl-e them to
the differential unit, bogether with the hubs, discs and calipers. Torque
up and lockwire the rear calipers in position. Ensure the wishbones are
assembled correctly with the grease nipples facing downwards and the radius
arm pick up to the front. A11 the Jaguar washers, seals and spacers should
be retained between the wishbones and the diff. Lift the diff or lower
the chassis to locate the wishbone pins in the bushes on the chassis. The
standard Jaguar washers, seals and spacers again being retained between the
wishbones and chassis. Do not bolt up at this stage. Lift the diff and
align the top four holes with those on the chassis. Loosely bolt up the
four top boIts. Bolt up the rear diff support to the lower wishbone pins
with the top face of the support over-hanging to the rear. Align the top
holes on the rear diff l-ocator with those on the chassis. Tighten all
bolts and use lockwire where required. Push a bolt from underneath the
triangular mount on the chassis through the rose joint 1n the radius rod.
( Fie. 2) .

The rose-joint should be located between the sandwich plates. Adjust the
radius rod to allow it to align with the mount on the rear lower wishbone.
Bolt up the rubber bushed end with the standard Jaguar bol-t, tighten up
the locknut on the radius rod and check the operation of the wishbone
(Fie.3).
Assemble the rear shock absorbers and springs and atttach them to the
wishbone using the standard Jaguar pins. The shock absorber platform
adjustment should be at the bottom with the gas screw flacing to the
centre of the car. Do NOT forget to use the Jaguar spacer between the
front of the lower wishbone and the shock absorber. It will be necessary
to obtain two more of the 1ower pins to bolt up the top shock units
(Fis. 3).
Fig. 2 Radius Rod into Location with Locknut.

1 Note bolt inserted upside down to

allow witMrawal after body fitment.
 -- 3 Radius Rod into
Fig. Wilhlglu

1 Note platform adjustment at base,

gas scre\r" faces towards centre of car.
FRONT

Assembfe the front suspension as one unit referring to the Haynes Manual.
It should be noted Lhat the ]ower wishbones have a kink facing forward
(Fig. Il). UolL the lower wishbone to the tube provided on the chassis
using the standard Jaguar bolt, rubbers and washers.
The camber and castor angles can be pre-set at this stage on attachment
of the top wishbone. As a rough guide you should flind a setting of three
washers packed between the wishbone pivot and chassis on the front bolt
together with all three shims to the front between the top balljoint and
wishbone satisfactory (Figs. 5 & 5a). The correct settings are given in
the table aLtached.
The SRC anti roll bar droplinks should now be assembled to the lower shock
absorber plates. The sLandard Jaguar drop link rubbers sandwich the shock
absorber plate. These are retained top and bottom by the Jaguar cup
washers (Fig. 6). These shock plates ca.n now be fitted sandwiching the
lower wishbone.
The anti roll- bar can bow be fitted to the chassj.s using the standard
Jaguar rubbers and clamps. Push the ends of the anti ro11 bar through
the drop linl< ltushes (il may be necessary to raise the suspension to enable
this). 1ltig.'/)
BoIt in the front shocks inserting the hole size reducers located in the
top of the rear Jaguar shocks. The adjustment platform should be at the
bottom with the gas screw facing inwards. BoIt the front speclally
fabricated steering arms to the centre top point on the stub axle carrier
and the top bolting point of the caliper, with the taper pick up for the
track rod lacing forward, pointing towards the disc (the track rod inserLs
from the underside ).

HANDBRAKE LEVER AND CABLE

Bott the handbrake mounting plate from the MGB to the three captive nuts
on the chassis, Lhe ratchet mechanism should be facing forward. Insert
the handbrake and bolt on the cable lever (SRC flabricated) from inside the
transmission tunnel. Connect the handbrake cable to the rear calipers and
handbralie levcr'(inserl"ing the cable adjusting part through the mount on
the chassis). Check the operation of the handbrake. Adjust as necessary
ensuring that the cabLe will not foul with the discs, etc. (Figs. B).
Fig 4 Lower Wishbone.

Kink faces forward.

Fig. 5 Top Wis.hbone Assernbly.

Fig. 5a Top Wishbone Exploded.

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Fig. 6 Anti-roll Bar drop link to Shock Plate.

1 Jaguar parts.

1 lnsen into rubber bush marked: A on Fig. 6

Fig. B Handbrake Cable & Lever.

H
STEERING RACK TO C}I,ASSIS

Take the MGB steering rack (Lg76 onwards, with 22" shaft) and align with
themountsonthechassis.centralisetherack,markanddrillthefour
holes 5/L6" (Fis. 9).
removal of the
The two track rod extenders are fitted to the ::ack by the on both sides
track rod ends. Screw on the extenders (fitting a locknut
of the extenders ) and replace the track rod ends '
When adjusting the track of Lhe car, be sure to
evenly adjust from both
sides, and check that there is always sufficient thread securing
the
exLenders and track rod ends '

STEERING COLT]MN

to fit
This can Lre pre-fitted prior to body fitment. (Removal is required
mounting points
the aluminlum panels) The column bolts to the adiustable
onthechassis.Thetopmountsboltdirectlytothechassiswhilstthe type)' The
lower mounts require twt column mounting rubbers (cotton reel
steering
column extension can be fitted - this requires two
Jaguar
joints, and the
universar joints. The extension is fitted between the file a groove
position of the bolt holes marked on the extension' Either the bolt to pass
or a flat on the splines of the extension shalt to allow
through.

BRAKE I.{ASTER CYLINDER

carried
Pre-fitment of the brake master cylinder and servo unit should be
out before bodY fitting.
FuIr instructions for this are supplied in the brake pipe fitting kit'
brake fluid'
together with a1l pipes, hoses, "fip", 'T'pieces and silicone
and temporarily
Locate the brake masLer cylinder and servo on the pedal box the
bolt up ( the unit will have to be slackened off to insert aluminium
panels once the body has been fitted)' Run the brake pipes as required'
remembering to l.it Ln in-line brake light switch. The
pipes shourd run
fr:om the mast.er cylinder, straight back to the footwell
and then down the
(Fis'
chussls, irr rtr.tlcr Lo ttti.ttilttisc interference with the exhausts'
BP3)
Fig.9 Steering Rack & Erctenders
Once the pipes have been fitted and tightened, it is essential that a
silicone brake ftuid with a high boiling point is used, due to the close
proximity of the exhausts. The system should now be bled and inspected for
leaks whilst access is not restricted.
Three pedals are supplied in the body/chassis kit.
A. Throttle - made from round section steel and with
the smal-lest pad.
B. Brake - made from flat steel, with pad in line with
the pivot point.
C. Clutch - made from flat steel with ardog leg'bend
in it (offsetting the pad from. the pivot
point ) .

N.B. ALL LHD CARS SHOTJLD HAVE THO PEDALS OF TYPE B TO OPERATE BNAKE
AND CLUTCH.

The chassis is now complete up to Rolling Chassis specification.

NADIATOR AND FRAME

It is that these are pre-fitted prior to body fitting.

recommended This
all-ows you to familiarise yourself with the frame and ensure alignment of
bolt holes. Rover SDl radiator rubber grommets are used at the bottom
of the frame to locate the pins of the radiator. (Fig.lo). Gently bend
upper or lower frame to ease assembly. Top holes marked'2'on Fig. 10
may be enlarged if necessary.
Fig. 1

1 Drill lOmm Hole.

Fig. 2 N,/S caliper with flexipipe.

1 T'piece with brake switch.

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Fis. 3

i Pipe must bend forward at this point

to give clearance from starter motor.
2
3
4
5
Clutch pipe.
Rear'pipe.
Near side pipe follows lower crossbeam-
Offside pipe.
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FUEL TANK

Pre-fit of the fuel tank is recommended prior to body fitting.

The four rnounting tabs ar,e located over the dj.fferential beam (Fig. I
chassis layout ).
There are two separate mounts (SRC fabricated) that connect the tank to the
chassis. Ensure these are bolted to the tank on the correct sides (Fig.tI).
The fuel tank is mounted with the fuel flll-er neck uppermost and to the
rear of the tank. (The original filler point, now blanked off, should be
uppermost and to the offside).

Align the brackets (now bolted to the tank) centrally with the chassis
tabs, mark centres and drlll through 5/16". Remove tank from chassis
leaving brackets bolted to tank.
Run the fuel line (steet 5/16" bore pipe) atong the top nearside, underside
of the transmission tunnef - ensure it is well secured.

ALU,IINILJIiI PANELS

A complete set of front bulkhead/engine bay panels are avaj.labfe pre-cut

and folded as a kit. Some of these can be fitted to the chassis prior
to body fiLting and some are fitted with the bodyshell.
Identify and place the panels on the chassis. These are retained by
rivet.ing through, using lengths of angle on all edges. The angle should
be mitred in a manner so as to neatly mate up to the next piece. Use
l/8"'blind sealed'rivets to ret,ain the angle every 5 inches. We
recommend the use of silicone or mastic sealant behind the panels. The
front and top footwell and top of bulkhead panels will need to be removed
to allow the bodyshe]I to drop over.
The holes can be cut in the panels for:

Bralce master cylinder and servo

Clutch master cylinder
Stecring column
l,rlj r i n11 .l oonr rnrr l L iplugs
Heater unit - if used
Windscreen legs
Driver side.

Fig. 1 1 Fuel tank mounts (N.B each side different).

Near side.
 l
:--.------:----

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--- 2

Steering column. .e

Qd

Wiper/washer loom.
View of front bulkhead. driver side. I
Lighting loom.
Brake and clutch master cylinder holes can be marked around chassis holes.

Steering column and wiring loom multiplug holes are detailed in Fig. L2
(Dimensions shown in inches).

The heater unit can be fitted in the top of the footwell aluminium panel
usually on the driver's side. This is situated in the gap between the
upper and lower column mounts to the outer side of the steering column
itself. A hole is cut in order to suspend the heater unit through the
aluminium pane1. It is secured by al.uminium angle riveted to the outer
case of the heater.

The sl-ots for the windscreen legs should extend the length of the tri-
angular mounting plate for the screen legs. The slot should be half of
an inch wide with the outer edge of the slot level with t.he inner edge
of the mounting plate (Fig. 13).

BODYI,ilORK

It is advisable to do as much work as possible on the body prior to

fitting - this will reduce clean up later on.
WARNING: HIGH QUALITY MASK AND C,OGGLES SHOULD BE WORN.

The return edges of the wheelarches, bonnet, boot and mouth aperture
should all- be finally trimmed to produce a uniform width.
The panel onto which the dashboard is to be fitted should be cut out to
leave a lOmm flange onto which the dashboard can be attached.
The door seal edge should be trimmed back to 15mm.

BODYSHELL FITTING

BoIt or rivet a strip of rubber approximately 1.5 - 3.Omm thick along the
bottom horizontal flange bonded into the body in the footwell area. The
rubber should run the length of the flange (approximately 18 inches) and
should prot.rttrlc j n Lo Lhe cenbre by approximately lomm each side. This acts
as a weather seal.

10
Lower the body over the chassis as a trial fit. Alignment of the body is
done with the correct wheels and tyres that are to be finally flitted.
Ensure that the chassis is sitting 1eve1 and on flat ground (e.g. tyre
pressures are equal ). Front to rear alignment is normally governed by the
body fit - but smal1 movemenL may be possible. The wheel position in the
arches is Lhe main criteria. Each wheelarch height should be checked from
the ground - measured vertically through the centre of the wheels. The
front of the body will require lifting in order to counteract gravity.
The height of this is governed by the radiator frame.

Loosely bolt the frame on (see 'RADIATOR AND FRAIT'IE') and raise the body
enough to clear by approximately 2-lmm. Check that the door gap has not
cl-osed up too much - these should fit when trimmed back to their return
edge.

Side to side alignmenL can be now be checked as follows:

Hold a tape measure horizontally out from the top point of the wheel rim.
View directly over the centre of the arch and visually align the top of the
arch with the bottom of the wheel rim. Read off the measurement from the
tape and compare with the other side. Adjust if necessary.
Note: It is important Lo ensure that the height of the wheelarch is also
checked at the same time as measuring to centralise the body - a difference
in height will affect the side to side measurement.

Check that the door hinge boxes fit between the body and chassis on both
sides.
Look around the contact surfaces between the body and Lhe chassis. Note
the surfaces where the body rests vertically on the chassis. If there are
any large gaps that woul"d not close up under normal bolting down, note the
size of the gap. The rear of the transmission tunnel is especially prone
to this. When you are satisfied that the body is aligned correctly, the
holes for the securing bofts can be drilled.
These are supplied in the body fixing kit, together with rubber sealer and
mastic type silicone sealant. The bolts are positioned approximately every
5 inches. They are drilled in a vertical plane around the floorpans where
the fibreglass cockplt internal overlaps the chassis members.

The front inner wheelarches bolt ont.o the outer lower chassis rail (drilled
horizontally ) .

The bodyshell- will now be easy to align on finaf fitting.

11
We recommend the above procedure of trial fitting as adjustment is made
easier belore contact with the mastic type seal-er.
We recommend using a self adhesive neoprene rubber of approximately 4omm
wide by 6mm thick. This is attached on all body to chassis contact
surfaces and can be doubled up in areas in order to seal up gaps.
A bead of mastic or seam sealant is then placed on top of the rubber,
and the body can t,hen be replaced.
Align the rear of the body again and secure it with a few fixings - do not
bolt down full-y at this stage. Raise the nose of the body to its height as
before. Check the fit of the doors in the apertures.
BoIt up Lhe radiator, frame and front inner wheelarches as before
Drill through and bolt up (7/76" ) between the angle brackets on the front
of the radiator frame and the front inner wheelarches. (one bolt per side
- a spacer may be required between the frame and wheelarch. )
The aluminium panels are now finally fitted. These are secured onto the
front of the fibreglass flange in the body with M6 bolts. Access to these
can be gained at the door hinge area.

Finally, secure the fixings in the cockpit. The boot of the car is bolted
through the boot support frame on the chassis. Two bolts per side are
used.

The fuel tank hofes should be drilled through the boot floor. The tank is
fitted from inside the boot of the car. Before fitting the tank we advise
that:
The sender unit is fitted with a new sealing ring and locking ring.
The sealing fits between the tank and sender, the locking ring on
top of the sender.
Fit a breather pipe to the small pipe at the top right hand side
of the tank. This vent pipe should run over the top of the tank
and exit Ehrough the inner rear wheelarch on the left hand side
of the car (this will prevent fuel surging out under cornering)
Fit a length of rubber fuel hose to the tank sender (approximately
1 metre l-ong) to connect to the fuel pump.
Drill a hole at the bottom corner of the shelf where the tank will
sit (right hand side for right hand drive cars - left for left hand
dr''i vc) t,o acccpt the rear f oom. Pass the rear }oom through.
IdcnLit'y Lhe I'uef tank sender wire so that this can be clipped
on before fitting tank.
The hole should be cut for the fuel filler cap (cutting this
before tank fitting elintinates getLing fibreglass dust in the
tank ). See FUEL CAP

t2
hIINDSCREEN FITTING

Measure a l-ine 7 inches forward of the pointed part at the front/top of the
doors (see Plg. 14). This gives the centre point of the windscreen pillar.
Side to sjde meansurements are obtained by running a straight edge up the
lnner edge of the triangular plate in the footwells (see Fig. 13). This
measurement can be re-checked for accuracy against the legs of the wind-
screen. Cut sfots to allow the legs to be inserted. The legs should
pass through the aluminium panel and just into the milled section in the
chassis. The screen legs should be set at an angle of 9O" to the chassis
member (FiS. 13). Open out the sloL in the body if required. The screen
will eventually be sealed with a trim plate on the top of the body - a
rubber gasket should be cut to provide a waterproof seal. A similar
elongated slotted aluminium plate and rubber gasket should be made to seal
the screen }egs as they pass through the aluminium panels. The legs are
then drilled through twice to take 3/8" bolts supplied jn the nut and bolt
kir.

FUEL CAP - extend the lines at the sides of the boot to enable you to find
the centre of the panel (FiS. 16 No. 1).
Cut the hole at the dimensions shown (Fie. 16 No. 3). The flange is boLted
directly to the body.
BOOT HINGES - These are paired to counteract the curved surface on the
bodyshell. The longest part of the hinge goes to the rear. The distance
between the hinges is given in Fig.16 No.2. Take care when bolt,ing the
hinges onto the boot lid as overtightening will distort the panel.
REAR BUIt{PER - extend the bottom edge of the boot lid horizontally to
produce a centre point between the tubes each side and dri1l through
body and frame with IOmm drill bit. The body is then opened out to
accept the size of the fixing tubes on the ntrdge bar.
REAR LIGIITS - Position these using the datum lines produced for the rear
bumper.

WINDSCREEN WIPERS AND IilASHER JEf, - DriII through the body using the
measurements given in Fig. 14. The dimensions shown for windscreep
wipers (5 & 6) refer to a right hand drive car. The same measurements
are used as a rnirror image taken from the left side on left hand drive
cars.
FRONT LIGHTS AND INDICATORS - These are cut centrally on the shapes
provided on the bodyshell. Ensure the correct positioning of the adjust-
ment screws when fitting the headlamp buckets.

13
Fig. 10 Radiator Frame pre-fii.

1 Bonnet hinge pickup.

2 Topradiator mounts.
3 Lower radiator mounts
Fig. 13

Windscreen Support at angle

of 90" to Chassis Member.
 t-
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Ii- Fig. 14.

1 Screen washer mounted centrally.
2 .31!" measured from bottom of chrome edge to centre of wheel box
3 1s1r" from back of bonnet to centre of lock.
4 24" between centres of bonnet locks.
' 5 18".
6 17Y2" measured from centre of screen pillar to centre of wheelbox.
7 7" to centre of screen pillar.
15 hinge assembly

1 Section of door.

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FE:z
1 Revolve the 2 halves of the alternator to
reposition the adjustment lug.
2 The adjustment bar is bent in order to pick up -\
on reversed fixing.

il
I
Fig. 18 'Engine mounts (Rover 3.5 V8).
TIANGING THE DOORS

Check the doors in the apertures. Smafl adjustments can be made to the
door gaps by trimming back the panel.
The door hinge and box are fitted in the gap between the body and chassis.
With the hinge bolted in the box the box should be pushed forward on the
slots until the hinge comes into contact with the chassis. It will be
necessary to cut two slots in the body to enable the hinges to open
(approximately 4Omm long).
Replace the door and check alignment with the hinge. Adjustment can be
made with washers in between the door hinge box and chassis or between the
door hinge and the door. (Fig. 15)
Mark the position of the hinge holes, dri11 through and bolt up. Check
the operation of the door.

DOOR LOCKS (Original Style)

Clip the striker flu1}y into the door catch. The catches are fitted so as
the handle on Lhe catch is uppermost,. Position the assembled catch and
striker with the cut out on the door. Remove the chrome outer cover on
the catch and mark the position of the striker. Bort up both parts and
check the operation - smal-I adjustment may be made by slotting the holes.

FITTING THE BONNET

Trim the edge of the bonnet to fit neatly into the aperture. The hinging
of the bonnet is easiest done from inside the engine bay. Fit the hinge
arms to the radiator frame. Lower the bonnet into the aperture and check
the alignment of the hlnge plates between the hinge arms and the bonnet.
Mark the posltion between the hinge arm and ptate, dril1 through and bolt
together. A small amount of adjustment can be made by gently bending the
hinge arm in a vice. Replace t.he hinges and bonnet and mark the holes on
the bonnet. These are then drilled and tapped to take the bol-ts in the
nut and bolt klt.
llepluce utttl lrofL up. A srrrall amount of adjustment can be made with washers
beLween the hinge plate and bonnet. Check the opening of the bonnet.

14
\\--"_
BONNEf, LOCKS AND STAY

Positioning of the l-ocks is shown in Fig. 14 No.4. When the locks are
closed the longest part of the handle should be to the rear, as should the
cam. The cam latches underneath the return edge on the body. The excess
length of square bar should be cut off - this is best done by removal of
the handles.
The bonnet stay is bolted to the right hand side return edge of the body
and to the raised section on the underside of the bonnet.
Measured from the front edge of the bonnet the positions rearwards for
fixing are:
BodY t7 inche s
Bonnet 31 inches

A large washer should be placed between the body and the stay to prevent
rubbing the paint.
You willneed Lo fabricate a small bracket (usually aluminium riveted to
the bonnet) in order to mount the stay onto the underside of the bonnet.

TIANGING ITIE BOOT

Place the booLlid in Lhe aperture, trimming the panel to fiL.

With the holes already drilled in the body, mark and drill those on the
bootlid. Ensure that the hinges are fitted to the correct sides of the
car, bolt up and check the opening of the panel.

BOOT CATCH AND STAYS

Mark the position of the handte. (See Fig. 16 No.4) The handfe is
secured on the outside of the bootlid with countersunk self tappers. The
catch plate is then positioned over the square shaft of the handle and
secured by drilling and tappi,ng the bootlid. The other part of the boot
catch is fitted to the flrame bonded into the rear of the body. A 5/L6"
bolt secured with two nuts provides the peg around which the latch catches.
Front to rear adjustment may be required as well as up and down, in order
to oll[uin l.lrc lrcst..l.ochi.ng action. The boot stays are secured in a similar
way to that on the bonnet (Two stays are required on the boot Iid) The
stays mount from the return edge on the body - lowered from the body by
aluminium brackets. You will need to fabricate two more small brackets to
attach the sLays to the underside of the bootlid. Measured from the front
of the bootlid, the positions rearwards are:
Body 41 inches
Boot 20 inches

t5
ROLL BAR FITTING

Cutting the holes for this can be done by sighting through from under the
wheelarch. Drill a pilot hole and then start to enlarge and plot the full
size of the ro11 bar hole.
Alternatively, it is possible to shine a powerful torch up the roII bar
fixing tubes and see the position of the tubes through the top of the body
- the darker the room the better.
When the holes are enlarged, drop the ro11 bar through the body and through
the tubes. The height of the bar can be set by measuring the gap between
the bar and the body. At the centre of the car, this gap should be
7 inches.
The roll bar is best filled with expanding foam. (Can be found in aerosol
tins at DIY centres or builders merchants ) This helps prevent the noise
of the differential being transmitted through the hollow tube. The bar
is secured by drilling through the fixing tube and bar on both sides.
Bolts are supplied for this in the nut and bolt kit. It is essential-
that any of the ro11 bar protruding below the bottom of the mounting
tubes be cut off. This will aIlow necessary suspension travel of the
alumunium hub carriers.

L6
 16

olru D! du^c L
It is necessary to swop the alternator from one side of the
car to the other. This is to al]ow for clearance on the
steering rack. To do this you require the SRC fabricated
alternator bracket.
This bolts onto the left hand side of the engine. Remove
the engine lifting bracket from the front left hand side.
The new alt,ernator bracket bolts onto this position. you
will also need to remove one of the waterpump bolts for the
lower support to fix to. (This waLerpump bolt is impossible
to remove with the engine in place in the car. )
The alternator itself al-so needs modification in order to
reposition the adjustment 1ug. (FiS. 1/ No. 1)
Mount the alternator on the bracket and check that the fan
belt pu1ley aligns with those of the waterpump and crankshaft.
Adjust if necessary.
The adjustment bar now requires modification. A bend rnust be
put in the bar in two places in order to pick up on another
waterpump bol-t. (FiS. 1/ No. 2)

l"inally, l'iL Llrc new (shorter) fan belt supplied with the
alternator bracket, tensLon as normal and secure all fixings.
N.B. rt may be necessary to cut a small notch in the alternator
bracket to aflow it to cl-ear some types of distributor. Remove
the fan and power steering pump (not required).

t7
 ENGINE AND GEARBOX UO[INTS

The engine mounting plates are replaced with those supplied in the basic
body/chassis kit. The plates bolt directly to the engine block in place
of the Rover steel items. The standard Rover rubber mounts then bolt to
these. Nol-e that the rubber mounts are marked TOP. (Fig. 18)
The gearbox uses the standard Rover rubber mounts and pressed steel cross-
members.

We recommend flitting the speedometer cable to the gearbox before fitting 1n

the car. The same applies to the gearbox oil as access to these items
becomes restricted - especially if feft until- after the propshaft is fitted.

We recommend using Castol SMX in the gearbox (Rover 5 speed). We use two
litres of this (overfilling past the leve1 plug). This has proved the most
successful when coupled to engines producing above standard power.
The engine and gearbox can be fitted as a one piece unit in Lhe car if the
following procedure is used.
Remove the bonnet.
Remove exhaust manifol-ds/headers. Remove t.he gearshift lever taking care not
to lose the spring and plunger. Secure the speedometer cable to the engine
so that it cannob be damaged.
Raise the back ol the car by approximately 20 inches at the rear wheel-s.
Lift the engine and gearbox with engine hoist. The engine should be tilted
rearwards at an angle ofl approximately lO degrees.
Raise the gearbox over the nose of the car and push rearwards into the engine
bay. Lower into posit.ion whilst supporting the gearbox with a trolley jack.
The Rover rubber engine mounts should sit on the inside of the mounts on the
chassis. Raise Lhe gearbox to meet with the chassis mounts. Secure with
bolts. It is possible to make smalt adjustment to the engine position by
placing washers between the Rover rubber engine mount and the engine plates.
Adjustment can also be made between gearbox crossmember and chassis.
If you are retaining the standard Rover rocker covers, Vou wil} need to swop
them from one sidc to the other to allow the bonnet to clear t.he oil filler
nccli.
Aftermarket air filters will need to be used if retaining the standard Rover
' carburettor.
Check that the engine is sitting level, side to side in the chassis before
finally tightening boIts.
1B
HGAUST SYSTEM

Header Pipes

The system of fitting the header pipes is the same for both side pipe and
underfl"oor sysLetns. The header pJ-pes are bunched together in sets of four.
Each bunch relates to one side of the car. Sort the pipes so that they fit
neatly together on the engine. As long as you keep the two bunches separate
from each other, it is impossible to fit the pipes incorrectly. It is
important that a gasket be fitted between the header pipes and the cylinder
head. Rover 3.5 VB engines can use individual exhaust gaskets, part number
AJM692/c3t3o F9. Do not fu1ly tighten header pipes before fitting the
collector boxes on the rest of the system.
Underfloor System
This consists of four main pipes. The pipes are all handed. Connect the
front section to the header pipes, pushing on as far as possible. The rear
section connects to this, taking the exhaust system over the axl-e. Support
the system whilst comparing with the other side. When both are aligned,
secure Lhe underfloor section with thercotton reel-'type rubbers (dri11ed
through floorpan). The rear ol the system uses the'suspension typetrubber
mount, hung from the boot internal. A small amount of adjustment can be made
by levers or the use of a trolley jack, whilst supporting sections of the
exhaust with wooden blocks.

If the exhaust runs very close to chassis members or springs, asbestos cloth
can be wrapped around the syst.em to prevent vibration. Use'Firegum'or a
similar type of exhaust asssembly paste on final fitment.
Side Pipe System
The lirst job is to cut the hole in the side of the bodyshell. The position
of this is governed by the header pipes. The hole is opened out in a similar
shape to that ol the side vents. ( See separate sheet )

Push the collector pipe onto the header system, the mounting bolt should be
pointing down. Push the rear section over the front elbow. The exit hole of
the exhaust should be twisted downwards slightly approximately 5-10 degrees.
The side pipes should run leve1 with the ftoor of the car. Bend the mounting
brackets to srrit and bolt up through floorpan.
Use'Firegum'or similar type of exhaust assembly paste on final fitment.
Heat Shields
These clip over side pipes and are secured by three st.ainless steel Jubilee
clips. The shield should be fitted fu1ly to the rear of the exhausts.
Check clearance on the door when open.

L9
FRONT NUDGE BAR

The over-riders should first be att.ached to the nudge bar. Lay the bar on
a bench with the front of the bar uppermost. The straight section is the
bottom. Position the over-riders either side with the hollow side down on
the bench. The largest part of the over-rider is the bottom, and should be
1evel with [he bottom ol the sl-raight part of the nudge bar. This is the
correct height setting of the over-riders on the nudge bar. The back of the
over-rider shoufd be flush with the back of the securing bracket on the nudge
bar. Drill through and bolt up. With the complete unit assembled, offer it
up to the nose of the body.
The bar should sit away from the body by approximatel-y one inch at the top.
You may find it useful to place suitably sized pieces of packing between the
two, to maintain this distance. The bar can t hen be hel-d onto the car with
masking tape. This allows you to stand back and view the bar. Adjust if
required and then mark the position of the mounting studs that will- fit into
the back of the over-riders. Drill through the fibreglass and the angle
brackets on the radiator frame. Secure with lomm studding, using }ock nuts
either side of the radiator frame to maintain its position. The studding can
be covered with chrome or stainless tubing cut to size.

PREPARING THE BODY FOR PAINTING

'Ihe paintworh ol a car is considered by many to be the most important part of

the car?s finish. For this reason, we recommend taking Lhe car to a pro-
fessional car sprayer, preferably someone who is used to preparing and
painting fibreglass. Il you intend to take the car to a professional,
speak to them before you take it upon yourself to prepare the body for
them. You will probably find that they would prefer to do this themselves,
and that your untrained attempt may even make the job more difficul-t for
them, if not done properly. This way they are responsible for the complete
job and have no'fet out'clause put down to the body preparation! The best
paint flinish 1n the world would look bad on a poorly prepared body. You may,
however, be able to assist by masking up all the suspension, chassis, etc.
Paint sprayers have a knack of painting everything on the car - so if you
have spent hours cleaning and painting all of the parts do not forget to get
them all covered up. Even the underside of the floorpans wilt come back with
overspray on them !
TIIII BODYSIIELI, S}IOULD BE PLACED IN AN OVEN FOR FINAL CURE PROCESS -
SUE LAI]UL A'TI'ACIIUD TO I]ODY.

If you are going to do the body preparation yourself, we recommend the'

following sequence:

;{

LW
Remove all external accessories.
Check that all of the edges of the panels and body are uniform and not ragged.
A file and sanding block with 40 grit procluction paper will quickly smooth
out minor imperfections.
The ?llash lines' that appear as seams can be reduced to a minimum with care-
ful use of a flire. The whole body should now be 'keyed'up with loo grit
production paper (dry) to remove alt of the gloss from the gelcoat. An air
powered orbital sander is best for this, but electric powered'pa1m sanders'
or a hand block can be used.
For best resurts we recommend'guide coating' the whol-e body. This is a
process where a very fine coat of paint is applied (a contrast colour -
usually black on a grey or white bodyshell) to the car. One aerosol can
is usually more than adequate to do the whole car (speckle coverage is a1f
that is required). A long sanding block (of about 14 inches by 4 inches)
is t.hen used horizontally to rub the car down. The guide coat will then show
up any high and 1ow spots as the car is rubbed down. Shal]ow dips may be
taken out with t.he 'high buildr primer. Deeper holl-ows may need body fitler.
rf the body does require filrer, ensure that the area to be filfed is
thoroughry keyed with 40 grit paper. rf this is not done, the filler may
either drop out or become virtually impossible to successfully btend the
edge of the filler into the bodyshell. If the bodyshell has sustained
damage to the gelcoat and glassfibre, the damaged area should be ground
back to the furthest extent of the cracking and re-Iaminated. Large areas
should then be filted wiLh fibreglass repair paste before final repairing
with normal body filIer.
Discrepancies between the bonnet, boot and doors with the body can be
rectified if you have not managed to obtain a perfect fit of these panels.
Check again that the gaps around the panels are as even as possible. The
edges of the panels should also be reduced to an even thickness by grinding
and adding body liller.
On the inside front edge of the bonnet scoop you willfind a gap between the
panels. This cannot, unfortunately, be avoided during the manufacture, and
so should be now be f1lled with body fill-er.
Once the complete bodyshell and panels have been finally rubbed down and any
damaged areas or hoflows filled and rubbed down, the shel-I is now ready for
primer.

Completely dust of'f the car with an airl-ine if possibte. Mask up literally
everything that paint coufd possibly get to.

2t
After experimentation with different manufacturers and paint types, we have
found the following to give best results'.
STKKENS l+1 PRTMER - applied straight onto the bodyshell. This primer
eliminates the need to use etch primers, and gives
excellent results covering all repairs whilst
preventing the top coat from sinking back. It
has a rhigh build' texture, so final flating of
panels can be done with this primer.

STKKENS AUTOFTNE TOPCOAT - offers a wide choice of colours, is easy to

work with, can be 'flat and polishedr after
pa int ing .

WARNING_ THE ABOVE PAINTS REQUIRE THE USE OE AN AIR FED RESPIRATOR.

Sikkens paints are available in the U.K. through the Brown Brothers Group.

Stripes
The standard classic stripes on these cars are two wide stripes down the
centre of the entire body.
This again is best left to the professional. Guidelines are as fol-lows:
The car should first be painted in the main colour for the body, and left to
harden. If you are not careful the stripes can give the appearance that the
fittings are off centre. For Lhis reason we recommend first removing alt the
items that wilf be within the borders of the stripes. The centre piece of
the screen can be removed whilst leaving the legs in prace. To do this,
remove the four fixings at either end of the windscreen.

Starting lrom t,he front, r,rith a chinagraph pencil, measure and mark the
centre point of the main items, €.g., scoop, screen, fuel cap, number plate
lamp, boot handle, etc. Take a long piece of thin elastic or string and
attach it to the front of the car with masking tape. Pull the string rear-
wards checking its alignment with the marks previously made. This will show
you how straight the line will appear. You can move the string once under
tension at different points down the car. You may find it necessary to
deviate slightly from your marked points if they have not been centred up
proJlcrly. Wlrcn you are happy with the Iine, mark the width of the centre
s t ripe e i t her. s ide oI' the s tring .

22
lrle normally use 2omm or 3/4 indn tape. h special tape catl-ed fine line tape
is made by 3M specilically for painting stripes. This tape is much thinner
than masking tape and will not allow the paint to rbleedrunderneath. Attach
the tape at the nose of the car and folow the marks you have made. The tape
is best used if stretched out in long lengths rather than trying to do small
sections at a time.
The width of the stripes can Lhen be measured out and tape applied as before.
Our stripes usually measure approximately }7i inches overafl.

DO NOT LEAVE FINE LINE TAPE ON PAINTED SURFACES LONGER TI{AN NECESSARY AS IT
MAY LEAVE UARKS IN ITIE PAINT.

Theexisting paint is then keyed up very lightly before masking up and

applying the new paint.
RE-FITTING THE CAR

Before re-fitting the windscreen, etc., ycju will achieve a better, cleaner
job if the palntwork is first polished (especially areas such as around the
windscreen). At1 the external- items can then be re-fit,ted, ensuring that
rubber gaskets or sealants are used where required.
At this stage we recommend undersealing the ca,r. Spray on type underseal is
the easiest and will give the best appearance. A11 underside parts of the
body should be done - to solten the impact of stones thrown up by the wheels.
The areas of body visible from inside the engine bay can also be done, as this
will improve the appearance of the libreglass laminate.
Fitting The Electrical Components

It is best to fit a]l the efectrical- component,s belore starting to wire up

the car.
The tights and sender unit are to be fitted as before.

FueI Punp

Dependant on the type of engine fitted, this may be electrj,cal or mechanical.

If the engine is not equipped with a mechanical pump, fit a suitable electrical
unit inside the boot of the car. Some pumps will sufler from reduced efficiency
if fitted above the height of the tank. The pump should be fitted to the left
hand wheelarch ( looking in from the back of the car ) . The outlet of the pump
is normally recommended to be above the inlet - this will allow any air drawn
into the pump to be expelled. (Refer to manufacturers inst.ructions. ) Do not
forget to earth the case of the fuel pump. (See wiring diagram.)
Battery Tray
This if fitted above the bellhousing of the engine. The tray bolts through
t,he footwell panels with the bolts supplied in the nut and bolt kit.

Position the battery in the tray and fit the battery clamp. Two small holes
should be drilled either side of the battery to attach the clamp. Excess length
of t.he clamp can then be cut down.
Horn

These are positioned on the left hand side front inner wheelarch - away lrom
exhausts. Twin tone electric horns are the type normally used. The mouth of
l;hc ltot'n slrottlrl ['irr:cl tlownwards in order to allow water to drain lrom it.

24
Coil and Ballast Resistor
On Rover VB powered cars, this is fitted on the left hand side front inner
wheel-arch. Pord and Chevy VB cars often have the coil and baltast resistor
bolted to the engine itself.
lrlindscreen Vrlasher Bottle

Many variants of these are available. Southern Roadcraft stock new items
which have the pump motor as an integral part of the bottle. Thls is situated
on the left hand side front flootwell. It is best positioned as high up the
footwell face as possible. This will reduce the effect of the heat from the
exhausts and w111 enable easier filling of the bottle. Left hand drive cars
will need to relocate the bottle onto the right hand side of the car.
!,Iiper Motor
This is a standard two speed Lucas unit. It can be found on many British
Leyland cars such as the MGB and Mini. There are a variety of small variations
on these wiper rnotors. The main differences are: -
Park Position: Some motors park with the worm drive fully retracted or
fully extended. This can easily be overcome by modification to the wiper
motor (revolving the gear wheel) or more simply by rotating the wheelboxes
180".
Degrees of Vrlipe: Each wiper motor has a gear wheel which is stamped with
a degree number - these vary from JO' to I3O'. When used in conjunction
with a l2 tooth wheelbox a wheel between 95 and 11! is suitable. If a
40 tooth wheelbox is used a wheel between 11! and 130 should be used.
When the correct combination of gearwheel and wheelbox has been selected the
unit can be fitted.
The motor is positioned on the left hand side footwell top. Use the standard
Lucas pad and clamp to secure the unit to the top panel. it wiII be necessary
to make new outer support tubes for the wiper motor drive. The length of these
can be determined with the wheelboxes secured to the bodyshell and the motor in
position. It will be necessary to flare the ends of the pipe sq t.hat it can
locate itself in the groove of the wheelboxes. 5/L6" OD Bundy pipe is used. Do not
forget to fit the securing nul- to the pipe before flaring both ends on the piece
connecting to the motor. Grease the pipe, worm dirve and wheelboxes before
use. (Reverse layout on LIJD cars)

NOTE: IF- THE PIPE BENDS ARE TOO TIGIIT, THE WORI,I DRIVE WILL BECOME RESTRICTED
AND MAY BURN OUT THE MOTOR.

25
Radiator Fan

Due to the distance between the engine and radiator, it will be necessary to fit
an electric fan. Many makes are available, the most common being the Clova fan
or Kenlow fan. Check manufact,urers instructions as some fans are designed to be
fitted in front and some behind the radiator. For this reason we usually stock
Clova fans - these atl,ach to the back of the radiaLor and so cannot be seen
through the main aperture in the front of the car. These are usually thermo-
statical'ly controlled, but can be overriden by a dash mounted switch (not
normally necessary). Engines over ! litres capacity - especially tuned or to
be used in hot climates, oay require two radiator fans. Refer to manufacturers
instructions for fitting.
Radio Cassette

Dashboards produced after June 1990 have a pre cut panel at the bottom. This is
designed to suit the current standard. Pioneer systems. It is easily cut out
using a hacksaw blade, the excess material then glued around the ho1e. Speakers
can be located between the seats on the rear bulkhead and/or in the footwells.

Electric Aeria1
Positioned on the drivers side on the rear wing. It will be necessary to obtain
a unit which is very compact bel-ow the top of the wing. Position the aerial so
that when extended, it leans slightly rearward and inward on the car. Fit an
extension lead to the aerial to return to the radio. Ensure that the body of the
aerial is earthed ( see manufacturers instructions ) .

26
}JIRING THE CAR

The first job with the loom is to identify the five separate parts.
1. Dashboard ]oom
This is the most, daunting looking! It is approximately one metre Iong,
has three bullihead connectors and a lot of wires leaving the main trunk
every I'ew cen L imetres .
2, Rear loom
This is the longest of the looms. It has a multiplug connector at one
end and a length of approximately three metres before wires start to leave
the main trunk.
3. Front Lighting loom
This has the fuse box connected at one end.
4. lr]iper Motor/ldasher Bottle loom
This is the shortest, most unclutt.ered loom.
5. Engine loom
The remaining loom with the afternator plug on.

Loom numbers 1,4 and ! are all fitted inside the engine bay. Fit the bulkhead
connectors through the bulkhead from the engine bay side, as shown in Fig.12.
Secure t.he fuse box to the bulkhead.

The front lighting and engine loom both run down the right hand side of the car.
They are secured behind the return flange of the bonnet aperture with plastic
'P' cl ips.
The engine loom leaves the body, 1evel with the front of the engine. The loom
should be hidden from view as much as possible, e.g. the horn and radiator fan
wire being secured under the top suspension crossmember.
The front lighting loom continues forwards to the radiator frame. A suitable hole
in the front inner wheelarch allows the right hand side wires to reach the right
hand lights. The left hand side of the loom crosses over and is secured on the
top of the radiator frame. Another hole in the left hand inner wheelarch finishes
the routing ol the front lighting loom.
The wiper/washer loom is secured behind the return edge of the bonneL aperture
{Iti i [. Jtiu;l;t:l; I.o l.]rc l c ['1. ltitrrd s j rlc ol t.hc car. ConnecL to Lhe componenLs .
The rear loom runs lrom the mul-tiplug behind the dashboard, across to the right
hand slde where it passes down behind the door hinge and rearwards in the outer
'corner of the floor pan. It then is raised up behind the right hand seat and
passes through to the boot at the bottom corner of the fuel tank. The main
bunch ol wires after t.he fuel sender, number plate lamp and fuel pump is t,he
right hand side set of lamps. Pass the remainder of the loom through the tube
bonded into the rear of the body, to reach the teft hand set of rights.

)'7
CONNECTING T}IE I,,IRES USING THE WIRING DIAGBAM

The loom is made in a way so that each component (e.g. wiper motor switch) has
its own separate bunch of wires. You may find it easiest to labe1 each separate
bunch as you identify them from the diagram before connecting.

Connec t thc I <l<>rn Lo l-hc components .

We recommend not to connect the battery until all the loom is complete. This will
avoid a short by live wires not yet connected.
Ensure all black wires with ring terminal connectors are securely earthed to the
chassis.
Battery Cables
You will need Lo make your own main battery cables. These are heavy duty cables
(Red - Positive and Black - Negative) which are available from most good car
accessory shops or a Lucas stockist. The SRVB Roadster should be wired
NEGATIVE EARTH.

The main Red cable is connected to the starter motor. The brov,rn live wires with
ring terminals on (situated by the fuse box) are for connection with the main
red cabl-e to the positive side of t,he battery. Special positive and negative
battery terminals are required for main battery cables.
The black negaLive rnain cable shou1d run to a main part of the engine as an
earth, e.B. an engine mounting bolt or engine lifting bolt of at least l/8"
diameter

2B
 2 A Soft top.

1 Fibre washer sits on top of body.

2 5t1r" Irom body to centre of pivot
3 501/2" between centres.
4 3/a" from back of door to centre of hole.
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