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ISSUE 27

FREE

The Atoll
of Pukapuka
Master Artist
Island Art
Te Maeva Nui
Adventures at Sea

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Cook Islands Escape Magazine
www.escapemagazine.travel
One unforgettable Day
“The view of the island from the plane
was just spectacular.”

“I think we’d all forgotten


how to relax, the cruise
fixed that.”

“This tour was the


highlight of our
trip. We loved
every minute of it.”
Flights depart daily
(except Sundays) from
Rarotonga Airport at
8.00am. Returns 5.30pm.

“Once they found the fish the For more information please
call our reservations centre
boys snorkelled for hours.” (Mon-Sat) on 22888 or email
bookings@airraro.com
LM/SD 2023017

www.airraro.com
Aitutaki

Cruising, swimming, snorkelling,


Cruising, swimming, snorkelling,
relaxing over a barbequed
relaxing over a barbequed
lunch of freshly caught fish
lunch of freshly caught fish
as you explore Aitutaki’s
asbeautiful
you explore Aitutaki’s
lagoon.
beautiful lagoon.
AIR RAROTONGA’S
DAYTOUR INCLUDES:
A I R R A R O T O N G A’ S
- Aitutaki
DAY T O U Risland
I N C Ltour
UDES:
THE VAKA CRUISE
• Aitutaki island tour
- Island hopping
T H E VA K A C RU I S E
- Delicious barbequed lunch
• Island hopping
served on-board
• Delicious barbequed lunch
- Complimentary
served on-boardtowels and
snorkelling equipment
• Complimentary towels and
- Bathroom facilities
snorkelling equipment
• - Bathroom
Round trip facilities
airfares from
• Rarotonga
Round trip airfares from
Rarotonga
All inclusive costs:
FFROM
RO M $493
$459 PPER
E R PERSON
PERSON
Adults $493 (incl. VAT)
Child $246.50 (2-11 yrs)
Infants FREE (under 2 years)
CONTENTS
Issue 27
July 2018
52 74

Up front Tour of the Cook Islands


6 Introduction 10 An introduction to the Cook Islands
8 Contributors to this issue 22 Rarotonga
80 Aitutaki
86 Atiu
Features 88 Our South Pacific Home
– Southern & Northern Group Islands
40 The Atoll of Pukapuka
Amelia Borofsky talks about the island and the people of
Pukapuka, one of the Northern Cook Islands. Regulars
46 
Beachcomber - from Ruin to Renewal 12 Art Scene
Rachel Smith looks at the history and renewal of the Our writer Joan Gragg talks about her early childhood
Beachcomber, from when it was built to present days. memories of building a family home.

50 A Rarotongan Art Tour 16 Book Worms


A quick tour of some of the local art galleries on A review of topical authors and their books.
Rarotonga.
18 What’s in Store?
Taking a look in shop windows.
52 A Master Artist
Local writer Glenda Tuaine talks to Mike Tavioni about his 20 Raro Rhythm
life and times and his aspirations for artists of the future. Read about Kathy Brown a Cook Islander who has played
internationally during her career and is now back home,
62 Te Maeva Nui 2018 - The Path of the Moon sharing her talent.
A look at the upcoming annual cultural celebrations that
are Te Maeva Nui which are part of the of Cook Islands 28 Island Cuisine
Constitution celebrations. This year the theme is about We visit local restaurants.
the path of the night or the moon and how it influences
life in the Cook Islands. 36 Phillip Nordt on Food
Learn how to prepare and serve the opah or moonfish as it
66 
Fresh Fruit on Rarotonga is also called.
A brief look at some of the fresh fruit to be found in and
56 
Great Places to Stay
around Rarotonga, and some of their uses.
A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.
68 Te Ipukarea Society - Caretakers of the Cooks 92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide
Read about TIS and their efforts to promote a more The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and
environmentally friendly and sustainable society in the nightlife.
Cook Islands.
96 What’s On?
70 An Interview with Marc Cameron A calendar of events and holidays.
 - A Collector of Stories
Tim Meyer sits down in Rarotonga to talk to Marc 97 Seven Events that you shouldn’t miss
Cameron, author of the latest Tom Clancy novel about Upcoming great events to see and do.
his love for The Cook Islands.

74 Camping on a Cargo Ship


Thomas Koteka gives us yet another intriguing insight to
days gone by, and his adventures.

Front Cover: Young fishermen in Pukapuka Photo: Amelia Borofsky

4 • ESCAPE
EDITOR'S Note
Kia Orana and welcome to the Pacific Paradise of the
Cook Islands and issue 27 of Escape magazine.
While some of you are sitting on a beach or relaxing
by the pool in Rarotonga, Aitutaki or one of the other
Cook Islands. Others of you will be reading this,
publisher
RD Pacific Publishing Limited
sitting in an Air New Zealand Koru lounge in Auckland
or even the Qantas or Strata lounges while waiting to
editors go away on holiday or having picked up a copy from a Flight Centre Expo are planning
Margaret and Steve Woulfe
already where to go and stay while over here. Hopefully this gives you a small taste of
design what the Cook Islands have to offer. When you are thinking of that next trip away, this is
Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group the place to visit.
Auckland, New Zealand

printed in New Zealand Now we have three airlines flying to Rarotonga – Air New Zealand, Jetstar and Virgin it is
Webstar a division of Blue Star Group easier and more affordable than ever to come over for a week or two or more. With daily
(New Zealand) Ltd, Auckland. flights from New Zealand to Rarotonga and easy connections to Air Rarotonga, all the
advertising director Cook Islands are in easy reach.
Margaret Woulfe
In the next 12 months there are lots of events and experiences to be had in the Cooks.
regular contributors
Glenda Tuaine From traditional dancing and singing (Te Maeva Nui) to running in the Round Rarotonga
Joan Gragg Road Race in September - if you dare! Go to the rugby sevens or the netball in
Rachel Smith November or just go swimming in the blue waters or practise for running around Aitutaki
Tim Meyer next year in the Aitutaki marathon, there are activities for all the family. For more
Amelia Borofsky
information on Whats on see pages 92 to 98 or call any of the Cook Island Tourism
Rachel Reeves
offices listed on page 98.
advertising sales Rarotonga
Steve Woulfe
We have accommodation from high end resorts and hotels to backpackers for the
Phone: (682) 23449 or 57298
Email: advertise@escapecookislands.com
budget conscious to self-catering holiday homes, there is something here for every
budget, so check out some of the best places to stay both in Rarotonga and Aitutaki
distribution Rarotonga later in this issue. For those who like to dine out we showcase the best of the best
Phone: (682) 57512
restaurants and cafes in Rarotonga and Aitutaki.
Email: advertise@escapecookislands.com

distribution Aitutaki We hope that everyone finds something to enjoy in this issue and welcome any
Annie Bishop
feedback you may have either via email or on our Facebook page – Cook Islands Escape
Phone: (682) 31009
Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck
Magazine. Don’t forget if you are on Facebook to please like our page and follow our
page to keep up with events and people in the Cook Islands. Don’t forget to mention
Escape is published bi-annually by Escape magazine when you book or use any of our advertisers as some are offering a
RD Pacific Publishing Limited
discount for name dropping.
P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Email: advertise@escapecookislands.com
To all visitors please take this magazine home with you and share with your friends so
All contents of ESCAPE magazine are
they too can come and experience our little piece of paradise.
copyright of RD Pacific Publishing Limited.
Any reproduction of any part of this
magazine without prior written permission And last but not least to Raui Manapori and his wife Mahina and daughter Frances for
is strictly prohibited. their hospitality and kindness on our trip to Aitutaki in March, meitaki atupaka.

Kia Manuia

Margaret & Steve

6 • ESCAPE
T H E WOR L D S BE ST K E P T SE C R ET
Our resorts are an independent, character infused family of hotels
in our little paradise of the Cook Islands, filled with local, colourful
characters who go above and beyond. At Pacific Resort, we believe
the magic of travel is in discovering something different. Something
local, valuable and authentic.

W W W. PAC I F I C R E S O RT.C O M

R AROTONGA · COOK ISLANDS


STAY CONNECTED
WITH BLUESKY
WHILE IN THE
COOK ISLANDS CONTRIBUTORS
Glenda Tuaine
Glenda has lived in Rarotonga since 2005 when she returned to be

WiFi HOTSPOT the Marketing Director for Cook Islands Tourism after working in the
New Zealand Arts industry as a Festival Director, Producer, Writer,
sometime Radio and TV Presenter and all round arts advocate.
For fast internet connections on
the go, Check out our Hotspots. Now Glenda and her husband Mo run the successful creative
There are over 300 Bluesky company Motone focusing on Music and Performing Arts
WiFi HOTSPOTS development in Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Glenda is of Aitutaki and Rarotongan descent and
in Rarotonga and when not working on a myriad of projects can be found at the beach with her daughter Ruby
Aitutaki giving you
easy internet access and dog Nemo.
to your family, friends
and Social Media.
Tim Meyer
Tim has lived in the Cook Islands for a number of years, working in
diving and resort management in Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Manihiki.
He is an ocean enthusiast, father, husband, gardener and over all
MOBILE a man marvelled by the wonders of the South Pacific. In his spare
time, Tim enjoys island life with his wife and two children who are
Grab a $49 Bluesky VISITOR
SIM card. Available from any both born in Rarotonga. He also writes for the personal family blog
of our Bluesky Outlets and our azurecoconut.blogspot.com where he shares the adventures of a French/German family
Airport Kiosk. Our VISITOR SIM exploring the world in an unconventional way.
card is preloaded
with 3GB of data,
30mins of calling and
300 TXT to anywhere Dr. Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky
in the world*. Dr. Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky grew up in Pukapuka and
Hawai’i and calls Oceania home. A global traveler, she has visited 42
countries, but Pukapuka remains her favorite. She wears hats as a
community psychologist, storyteller, mother, and surfer. Her wanting
to give back to the Pacific led her to founding
INTERNATIONAL www.seaofislandsconsulting.com. She has written for the Atlantic,

CALLING New Zealand Geographic, and Cook Islands News. She sends a huge Atawai Wolo to all her
family and friends who influence her writing and heart.
Get talking with INTERNATIONAL
CAPPED CALLING. Our one-hour
capped calling rates are some of
the best under the Rachel Smith
Pacific sun. For up Rachel is a freelance writer who has recently returned to live in
to an hour pay $5.00 Rarotonga. It was a love for the relaxed island pace of life, and
to call New Zealand the beauty and warmth of the Cook Islands and its people, which
and $10.00 to call made it an easy decision to move back after three years of living
Australia, Fiji, UK, USA in Christchurch, New Zealand. Her freelance and fiction work has
and Canada. featured in a number of online and print magazines, and she now
combines freelance, fiction and policy writing with family life.
http://rachelmsmithnz.wix.com/rachel-smith

Visit us at any of our Joan E Gragg


Bluesky Outlets in Joan was born in Rarotonga and has lived most of her life in
Rarotonga and Aitutaki Rarotonga with brief interludes in New Zealand and Australia. In
2010 she graduated with a Masters of Art and Design from AUT.
She paints in watercolour and oils and enjoys making sculptures
using local materials. Her happy childhood is the subject of much of
her writing.

Also
Learn our language & culture. Download Jess Cramp, Ewan Smith, Rachel Reeves, Thomas Koteka, Nick Henry, Margaret Woulfe
the Hika Kia Orana app today from the and Steve Woulfe.
App Store & Google Play store.

8 • ESCAPE
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beside the ocean.
Located on the
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36 individual villas situated on 5 acres of tropical gardens of Rarotonga,
where our
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The Cook Islands 15 tiny islands in paradise, that
a small nation calls home.

London

Berlin
Vancouver

Rome
Beijing Seoul
Tokyo
Los Angeles

Hong Kong

Honalulu

Northern Group

Capetown
Perth
Sydney
Auckland
Cook Islands
Southern Group

W here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon 13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association
meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands. with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship,
all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country
The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal
you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on
special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative
warmth. is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs)
counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body
It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled of traditional chiefs.
them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook
Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of
visitors. Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and
cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short
All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group
km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their islands each offering something different.
own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to
the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or
Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow. boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to
The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to
popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world. the northern group islands.
The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki,
Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea. But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and
Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade
Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island. winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots
found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always
Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and
populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.

10 • ESCAPE
THE
VAKA
CRUISE
2018 EVENT FORMAT:
Cruising Aitutaki’s magnificent
lagoon aboard our unique
(pending wind
conditions)
We
Polynesian-style expect
craft the week to look like this…
SUNDAY 19 AUGUST: Aitutaki

MANUREVA AQUAFEST • Welcome briefing for participants and supporters


• Final registrations and distributing Manureva Packs (reusable

Aitutaki 2018 water bottle & straw, event shirt & hat + lots of other cool swag)

This is the cruise you can’t miss …


A five day international watersports festival; Manureva Aquafest
MONDAY 20 AUGUST: Aitutaki & Motu Tavake
• Traditional blessings and Turou (welcome call)
Six hours
is a special on Aitutaki’s
experience beautiful
filled with exhilarating, lagoon.
action packedIsland hopping, snorkelling,
• Official and a delicious barbequed
Opening Ceremony
watersports, blended with the lunch served
traditions and on-board
culture of thewith • Boat Towels
Cook bar service. transfer to Motusnorkelling
and Tavake
Islands. • Orientation
equipment are complimentary. Bathroom facilities. and Day 1 kiteboarding races start!
TUESDAY 21 AUGUST: Motu Tavake
Each year, Manureva Aquafest brings together competitors and • Day 2 of kiteboarding races and potential downwinder
supporters from around the South Pacific and beyond to enjoy
WEDNESDAY 22 AUGUST: Motu Tavake
The Vaka
the unique conditions Cruise departs
of Aitutaki’s Monday
stunning lagoon to Saturday at 10am from O’otu and returns at 4pm.
– pristine
• Day 3 of kiteboarding Big Air, Expression session
aqua blue water, warm and flat, perfect for freestyle, racing and
• Night BBQ and party on the beach at: (TBC)
big air kitesurfing, as well as stand up paddleboard (SUP) races,
swimming and apnea breath challenge. THURSDAY 23 AUGUST: Aitutaki
• Join the fun with our local school “Kite Kids” programme
This year’s event with a purpose highlights women and youth at Araura College.
in sport and the environment. The stunning Miss Cook Islands, FRIDAY 24 AUGUST: Aitutaki
Alanna Smith, will be competing, judging the kid’s kite building • Aquafest Day at Aitutaki Village, Ootu Beach – swimming,
competition at one of Aitutaki’s schools and providing a powerful paddleboarding and apnea breath challenge
environmental message through her work with Te Ipukarea Society. • Closing Ceremony, Prize Giving.

THE
VAKA Take a Romantic
CRUISE
Cruising Aitutaki’s magnificent
lagoon aboard our unique
Dinner
Cruise
Polynesian-style craft

on Aitutaki’s Lagoon
This is the cruise you can’t miss …
Experience a nostalgic tropical evening dedicated to
Six hours on Aitutaki’s beautiful lagoon. Island hopping, snorkelling, and a delicious barbequed
lunch served on-board with barthe1950’s worldand
service. Towels famous Coral Route on Aitutaki’s
snorkelling
fabled
equipment are complimentary. Bathroom facilities. lagoon; includes dinner,
drinks & entertainment.
This is the cruise for
The Vaka Cruise departs Monday to Saturday at 10am from O’otu and returns at 4pm.
true romantics.

www.airraro.com ESCAPE • 11
art
scene

our new

Painting and story:


Joan Gragg

W
hen we first moved in 1950 to way. Instead of keeping in warmth it of coral stones. You could tell that this area
Tutakimoa section 47B. the invited cool breezes to freely blow through had once been at the bottom of a lagoon.
boundary pegs gave us three the house. It was two storied. The upstairs We loved it for so many reasons. not least
quarters of an acre of land six feet below for the kids. The down stairs had a kitchen, of which was it was ours to enjoy for sixty
sea level in the village of Tutakimoa. sitting room, our parents bedroom, a years.
spare room for a guest and an inside
We were very excited about building our bathroom. Outside stood the pit toilet for Building materials were not readily
own house because we had rented a house emergencies and for housing the garden available, especially cement so in the
in Ruatonga ever since our parents had tools. The steep pitch of the roof did not tradition of the London Missionary Society
come to live in Rarotonga from Palmerston have to let the snow slip off the roof but churches built in the eighteen hundreds,
Island in 1943. They had married in allowed torrential rain to flow easily so it we made our own umu ngaika, lime pit.
Rarotonga in March 1941 but moved to could not gather and pool on the roof and A pit was dug in the yard by a bulldozer
Palmerston where our mother was the cause leaks. It also provided protection and the trees in the way of our new house
school teacher. Our oldest sister was born from strong winds. were cut and put into the pit for fire wood.
in Palmerston and our father had to be Kapok, pistata, and coconut. Truck loads of
a doctor when our mother had problems On our section were three huge mango coral rocks from the beaches were brought
giving birth. Dr. Ellison coached him over trees, six enormous kapock trees, an in and baskets full of rocks from our
the radio. He was assisted by the island avocado tree, a lime tree, three breadfruit section were gathered by us children and
midwife. trees, tall mature coconut trees, wild piled on to the fire wood. Our papas from
pistata trees, pawpaw trees and a the village helped to gather coral from
By 1950 there were seven kids in our Brazilian cherry tree, and rampant growing the beach, which they carried in sacks on
family. Five girls and twin boys. au trees. All towered above the tarapi their bicycles to the umu ngaika. When
which is a tall serrated leaf grass that the firewood was covered in a huge mound
Our father drew plans for the house that grabs and scratches your skin as you walk of coral stones, kerosine was poured in
reminded him of his childhood home in past. Under all the lush growth were tons gaps around the umu, then dried kikau
England but functioned in the opposite (a coconut frond) was lit and poked into

12 • ESCAPE
Tivaevae
Collectables.com
the gaps where the kerosine was poured. We used the lime to plaster our house. The TRADITIONAL PACIFIC
We watched with anticipation expecting walls were made with gravel and cement FABRIC ART FOR YOUR HOME
a dramatic explosion because of the fire that was poured into boxing. Steel rods
accelerant addition, which we were never in the boxing every few feet anchored
allowed to use around fires. Instead the the walls to the floor and when the walls
wood slowly ignited and wisps of smoke were the right height and dry they were
appeared and very slowly flames broke plastered with lime. We had a very cool
the surface of the mound and built into house. Lime keeps the walls cool probably
a flaming volcano that burst some coral because it absorbs moisture. In one area it
rocks and spat them out at us. When it was always damp. SHOP
flamed fiercely, water was squirted over ONLINE!
the inferno to slow the wood from burning A special feature about our house was it
too quickly. The burning wood had to be had rounded corners. Where a wall ended
carefully monitored so it did not burn out For quality tivaevae bedcovers,
at a doorway or a wall butted into another
duvets, cushion covers, gifts etc.
of control. The umu burned for many days, or the wall met the floor there were Look for our sign west of the airport -
to us as kids it seemed it burned for many rounded curves and no sharp right angles. opposite the Weather Station in Nikao.
months. Rarotonga
Our roofing iron came from a building that Anne 24688
In the morning, on the way to school we the Union Steamship Company was pulling New Zealand
called in to see how the umu was doing down. It was thick and heavy and had Kathrine
and planned what we could do to make years of shelter left in it. After the roof was 021 0247 7893
use of this burning crackling inferno. We erected Mariana and our Dad and Carry
The Must Stop Shop!
were not allowed to get too close but fires Marsters painted it with silver roof paint.
www.tivaevaecollectables.com
were part of our lives and we planned to Mariana learned to paint and balance on email: info@tivaevaecollectables.com
cook something that we could eat. it was two by one scaffolding on the steep roof.
not very successful because the long sticks The rest of us left that chore to her.

Playingof the
we had to use to get to the heat burned
through before any food had time to cook. When we first moved to the house we had

Cardlsands
a ladder to climb up stairs. As time went by
Our friends helped us gather red the ladder became less steep until finally a
matakoviriviri seeds in empty corn beef proper staircase was built.

Cook Is
cans and toast them over the fire on long
sticks. When cooked the seeds split and we For a few years there was no cladding on
were rewarded with a nut the size of a very the sitting room ceiling so we could peep
small pea. Often we lost the Matakoviriviri through the floor boards from upstairs and
when the stick burned and the can fell into see who our parents visitors were. In those
the fire with all the matakoviriviri that had days people often came to visit after they
taken hours to gather. had eaten dinner. We ate early and went
to bed early. As we grew older our routine
After the umu was burned out a pit of changed and like the umu ngaika our lives
white wet hot lime was left. It looked like evolved into a new existence.
white icing you could eat with a spoon.
Around the edges of the cooled pit where We all worked hard at making our house a Novel, unique and appealingly
the lime was dry it was powdery and would home.
stick to you when you walked in it. It stuck
attractive, this deck of cards features
on your feet and crawled up to your knees 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art
after a few steps. In a minute you could be is influenced by everyday life in the
looking like a Momoke ( A legendary albino Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir!
fairy from the underworld ) all covered in
white lime. You soon learned it is not fun Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market
Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • The Gift Shop
to be covered in lime. It eats into your skin
The little Red Gallery • Perfumes of Rarotonga
and makes you itchy and really stings
when it gets into a cut.
See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre

ESCAPE • 13
ADVERTORIAL

Ariki Adventures
“T he Tans will fade, but the memories
will last forever” It’s easy to think
that Rarotonga is a sleepy little paradise
They also offer Yoga & Wellness Retreats and
Kiteboarding Clinics as part of a package
deal.
where you can chillax and take some well-
earned time out from your hectic lifestyle. Ariki Adventures is their outdoor activity
However for the more adventurous spirit, company based on Kave’s passion for marine
Rarotonga is fast becoming an adventure activities and his love of the environment.
destination. “After 28 years in the air force I wanted
to return home and create life-changing
Ariki Holidays is a locally owned and experiences for tourists and locals alike. Our
operated family business that has quickly marine environment in Rarotonga is stunning
made its presence felt in only three and a and I wanted to build adventures that show
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their vision, “A world where everyone shares The range of activities offered include Night
an Ariki experience” Their values are simple, Paddling, Kiteboarding School, Yoga and
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Jules says “We want to create a holiday tours. The introduction of Sea Scooter Safari
experience here that we expect when we adventures are now their most popular tours.
travel. We love meeting and staying with Imagine snorkelling through a coral canyon
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The Ariki Holidays group comprises or swimming with our majestic Green and
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contained units offering real “value for Guest reviews currently rank Ariki Adventures
money” in Muri. Set on Tamaariki family as #2 of 38 outdoor activities in Rarotonga.
land over-looking Motutapu Islet, each unit
accommodates two people and is perfect Ariki’s Shack is Jules & Kave’s Café and is also
for couples or friends wanting the personal the adventures Booking Office. Located in
one-on-one personal approach with locals. Muri, it is the funkiest little Shack on the rock.
They are the first to introduce Cold Brewed
Facilities include a recreation area called coffee and tea on the island and have a
the “Arenui” (meeting house) where guests quality range of cold and hot drinks as well as
can relax, have a drink at the bar or watch fresh bagels on offer.
a movie. Once a week Jules offers an umu
kai or BBQ meal to get to know each other From the serene to the adrenaline, Ariki
and their 9.4 Guest Rating from Trip Advisor Adventures has something on offer for you. In
is testament to their personal approach. Rarotonga, Ariki is “where adventure awaits”.

14 • ESCAPE
Island Escape
Over forty years ago, an Air New Zealand DC10 arrived in Rarotonga
carrying a youthful Australian family on the adventure of a lifetime.

Disenchanted with the duties of a suburban housewife As fate would have it, during the 1980’s a new industry
and never seeing a husband that worked 12-16 hour was born on the Island of Manihiki, Black Pearls. Our family
shifts as an electrical engineer, my mother rebelled and company evolved to include these stunning newcomers
escaped to the little known islands of the South Pacific with and became the first local company to specialise in
a friend and mentor. Black Pearl Jewellery.

Having previously visited Norfolk and Lord Howe Islands, On the occasion of our 42nd anniversary, I warmly
the duo arrived in Rarotonga. The effect was immediate welcome you to our Cook Islands Black Pearl Jewellery
and my mother realised that she had found our new home. stores on Rarotonga and Aitutaki to experience a part
of our on-going family adventure.
Shortly thereafter, and to the chagrin of friends and
neighbours, my family abandoned the suburbs of I also take this opportunity to bid you Kia Orana and
Melbourne for an unknown future on an unknown Island. welcome to my adopted home.

Since that time, my family has built a company specialising My name is Ben Bergman, Pearl Jewellery Designer
in Cook Islands Pearls. and Managing Director of Bergman & Sons,
Black Pearl Jewellers of the Cook Islands.
Relocating to the northern group Island of Penrhyn for
5 years in 1976, my parents collected natural pearls for Kia Manuia.
European and Asian markets.

One Family
One Gem
One Adventure

Cooks Corner RAROTONGA


Pacific Resort AITUTAKI

p +682 21 902 e luke@bergmanandsons.com


w www.bergmanandsons.com ESCAPE • 15
book
worms

escarpment of Gallipoli, industrialised So it is that we can follow the story of


killing fields of Western Europe and also in soldiers from the Pacific Island through the
Egypt and Palestine. One-hundred-and- politics and practicalities of recruitment
seven lost their lives to disease or enemy through to their return home after
action, 73 were wounded and a further hostilities. They played their part in the
three were prisoners. Until now little of big Western Front battles of the Somme
note has been written of their military and Passchendaele, and also in Egypt and
service 1914—1918, its origins and, indeed, Palestine and participating in the multiple
their personal stories. engagements of Gaza.

Howard Weddell’s first and much- Such battles are only one part of a much
anticipated book, Soldiers from the bigger story. Howard has spent a good
Pacific: The Story of Pacific Island Soldiers amount of attention to addressing the
in the New Zealand Expeditionary subjects of disease, death, discipline
Force in World War One, handsomely and diet throughout, along with many
addresses all of these matters. In timing other fascinating points that have been
this tome fits nicely with the centenary unearthed over 12 years of research
commemorations of the First World War; studying military personnel files, war
in practice the research and writing began diaries and other official documents. Few
more than a decade ago as a labour of historians go to this length; fewer still
love that has consumed much of Howard’s manage to make it interesting reading.
time on weekends and in evenings. What we have in Howard’s book is a top-
Soldiers from the Through its pages the reader will spy to-bottom account of Pacific soldiers in
Pacific the author’s eye for fine detail, a bent to the NZEF, adding a fresh dimension to
examine his subject area fully, a careful the existing pool of literature about that
Howard Weddell and even-handed approach to analysis, formation. It has the added bonus of
as well as empathy for the men and their being the first of a kind for Pacific Island
The book review is from Dr Andrew
ordeals. At least some of this will be linked communities and also the great and great-
Macdonald. Dr Andrew Macdonald is a
to Howard’s own career as a now-retired great grandchildren of those who sailed off
New Zealand-born author and military
officer in the New Zealand Army. He has for a great adventure. It is not at all going
historian living in London. He holds a
overcome a dearth of eyewitness accounts too far to describe this book as ground
PhD (University of London) in First World
from communities that pass history orally breaking and a long-overdue addition to
War military history. His PhD is in the
from one generation to the next, but the historiography of the First World War.
assessment of military effectiveness
nonetheless succeeded in producing a
in the First World War. He is the author
compelling digest. This book can be purchased via:
of three books covering the Somme
www.soldiersfromthepacific.com
and Passchendaele battles. He is twice
Anyone who has visited Rarotonga must
published by HarperCollins.
surely have observed that country’s
links to the First World War. Zip around
The history of World War One is known to
its coastal ring road on a scooter and
many, however the participation of roughly
there is plenty of evidence to be seen,
1000 men from the Cook Islands, Fiji,
most commonly in the form of returned
Niue, Tonga, Kiribati, Tuvalu, Samoa and
servicemen’s headstones and other
Norfolk Island who joined the New Zealand
memorials. The timeless stories of these
Army from their tranquil homelands until
men — some hailed as heroes, others
recently has faded into forgotten history.
as so-called characters and more still
These Islanders served — whether as
anonymous to the pages history — and
individuals or part of a Pacific Islands-
others who served alongside them, are
recruited unit — on the inhospitable
outlined in detail.

16 • ESCAPE
Published in early 2016, Cook Islands Art
and Architecture is notable not only for
its extensive illustrations and analyses of
Cook Islands drumming, dance, carving,
Cook Islands Art crafts, painting and architecture but also
& Architecture for its own striking design reflecting the
colours and motifs of these most colourful
Rod Dixon, Linda Crowl and creative islands.
and Marjorie Crocombe
Available from the University of the South
Already acclaimed as a Cook Islands Pacific (Cook Islands), or order online at
taonga or treasure, this richly illustrated http://au.blurb.com/b/6956145-cook-
485 page book provides visitors with a islands-art-and-architecture
colourful and comprehensive account of
the traditional and contemporary arts and
heritage of the Cook Islands.
Pa and the Dolphins
The book’s 21 essays have been written Jillian Sobieska
by Cook Islands artists, choreographers,
performers and academics, encompassing A True Story of Pa, Rarotongan
local dance, drumming, fashion, painting, Hero and his Journey to Tahiti
quilting, carving, weaving, tapa making, This spellbinding tale of one of Rarotonga’s
theatre, as well as architectural practice. most loved characters (the same Pa that
escorts you on the Cross Island Walk) will
A central argument of the book is the delight children and adults alike.
contrast between the specialized and
individualistic nature of western art Well written and beautifully illustrated by
production and the ‘grass roots’ collectivist Jillian Sobieska, a renowned Cook Islands
nature of Cook Islands art works. While artist, it tells the true story of Pa swimming
Cook Islands visual and performance in Tahiti and being hassled by a shark.
art is often inspired by a single ta‘unga Believing his life to be in danger he prayed
or expert, its final form depends on for help – and was rescued by dolphins.
improvisation and elaboration by a Well that’s enough detail… do buy the
large group of artists and performers book, its a little treasure.
working collectively. This is best seen in
the production of tivaivai, in dance and Available from Jillian Sobieska: Tel 21079,
dramatic performance and in choral or Bounty Bookshop
music where an individual idea is taken
up and elaborated by an ensemble of
artists or performers. Even the most
contemporary Cook Islands artists,
working in modern media, including
photography and painting, are often
-consciously or unconsciously - drawn
back to collaborations with their local
communities, ensuing a strong ‘grass
roots’ involvement in what - in other
countries – has contrarily become an elite
pursuit.

ESCAPE • 17
what's
in store

New Design from Bergman & Sons, Cook Islands Black Pearl and
Diamond Earrings in 18ct Yellow Gold Cage settings. Call into Bergmans
at Cooks Corner and see their advert on the back page.

Cook Island Moana Dolls ($45 each) are among the many
items available from Tivaevae Collectables near the weather
station on the Main Road. See their advert on page 13.

These great drink coolers and nip glasses are available in a variety of
designs at Treasure Chest. Take one or two home to keep reminding you of
your special time in the Cook Islands. Call into any of their four shops and
see their advert on page 26.

Here at The Little Red Gallery we


have a large range of prints, local and
Pacific artworks and gifts that reflect the beauty
and uniqueness of the Pacific – the people, the place,
the flavour that is The Cook Islands.
See their advert on page 51.

Show the destinations you visit with


one of our Rarotonga, COOK ISLANDS
Souvenir metal number plates. Great
as a gift for your guests to promote
our tourist location! Or simply hang
in your home! Only $30.00each.
Available at Perfumes of Rarotonga
Located in Cooks Corner Avarua or
our Factory outlet in Panama next
to the airport. See their advert
opposite page.

18 • ESCAPE
Perfumes of
Rarotonga

Handmade
Island Perfumes and Gifts
Browse the wide range of locally made goods at Island

e
Craft including fragrant coconut liquid soap with
’ s
g
frangipani essence and Matau or ceremonial hooks.
Call into their shop in downtown Avarua and see their ok y
Co
d
r
advert on page 43. o

fu
t
C
a
f
For the best range of fishing tackle,
hire tackle and fishing charters in
Rarotonga call and see the Marlin
Queen team in the orange/yellow
hut on the Main Road at Avarua
Wharf. See their advert on page 37.

Cooks CoRneR,
avaRua Phone: 24238
www.perfumes.co.ck
www.facebook.com/PerfumesRaro
Cook Islands black pearls, south sea
gold and south sea white pearls,

Great
PACIFIC
WEAVE
fashioned into beautiful pearl strands
at Moana Gems Pearl & Art Gallery.
Cultural
Experience!
Call into their Pearl & Art gallery in
uptown Avarua and see their advert
on page 39.

Factory
Rito Hat, Cook Islands
handmade

Outlet
Tamanu oil is pressed from tropical tree nuts of the Calophyllum family.
It has been traditionally used as a local medicine to help soothe the
skin and promote healing throughout the Pacific, great for
skin irritations such as eczema, psoriasis and Visit our factory:
chickenpox. Available at CITC Pharmacy as a pure Handmade local
oil or combined with other healing oils products for your skin & Woven Crafts
from around
from $12.90. See their advert on
hair, island perfumes, the
Mauke Miracle Oil,
gifts and Pacific and
page 67. Cook Islands
120 ml: souvenirs.
hand cooked oil with
skin healing
qualities.

Just before Airport - Panama,


Call: Perfumes of Rarotonga: 25238, Pacific Weave 27535,
Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 -ESCAPE
4:30, Sat 9:00-1:00,
• 19
Onlineshop: www.perfumes.co.ck, www.facebook.com/PerfumesRaro
raro
rhythm

Kathy
Brown
A life of music
Story: Glenda Tuaine

T
he Cook Islands contemporary music stuck to. “I enjoyed it. I was so keen In 1991 Kathy returned to Rarotonga on the
music scene I think is like one of our to get into my music I was playing and request of her grandparents who simply
beautiful Tivaevae, bright, brilliant, performing, then conducting and teaching wanted her to return to be with them
uniquely stylish and decorated with choir, my passion just kept growing!" as she had a house back in Rarotonga.
original character. One such character is Her music career broadens again and
Talking to Kathy you can just tell she is
the effervescent and talented musician she becomes a part of Sweet Sour and
in all senses a professional muso. Her
Kathy Brown. I sat down with Kathy to Cream with members George Upu and
love of what she does is very matter of
talk about her current music projects and Tina Herman. The trio quickly becomes
fact. When she relays some of the stories
the pathways that lead her to being the one of the Cook Islands most popular trios
of her music career it is obvious she is a
musician she is today. playing at all the hotspots of Rarotonga
talented entertainer and a music business
and rocking Stair Case, Trader Jacks and
“I started at a very young age - at 12 woman. Music is her passion that became
the then Hidies Bar at Cooks Corner.
years - as a pianist for the SDA Church and her career as she jokingly tells me how
With their fan base growing and albums
was being taught music by a wonderful in her younger days she chucked in her
being recorded by the trio their popularity
Australian woman who has since passed day job doing secretarial services for a
stretches to audiences not only here in
Michelle Porter” and so the story unravels Government department to pursue playing
the Cook Islands but overseas. They begin
as to how Kathy one of our long standing more gigs at night. “Music was a hobby at
touring in New Zealand and Australia but
performers on the local music circuit first. I had no idea it would turn into a full
not without a little controversy too! Back
became trumpet player, pianist, guitarist, time career” Kathy explains.
on home shores a court case suddenly
session muso, part of the well known Cook
From 1985 to 91 Kathy was in New Zealand makes headlines in Rarotonga over the
Islands trio Sweet Sour and Cream, solo
working in studios as a back-up singer ownership of their name which saw a rival
artist Katarina and of course Kathy Brown
and session musician for Cook Islands Sweet Sour and Cream claim the rights
for her diners at the various restaurants
artists who were recording at the Te Ono to the name. After a month long battle in
she now plays in. But let’s get back to the
Studios in South Auckland which were the courts Kathy, George and Tina won
trumpet playing! Her father encouraged
owned by Tereapii Pita. Working alongside the case and continued on recording
her as a young girl to play trumpet in the
Cook Islands music legends such as Apiti group albums with the support of Vaimutu
SDA brass band “And you had no choice
Nicholas, George Brown, Apii McKinley and Records owned by Noo Vaevae Pare which
but I read music and if I had to pick it up I
Henry Story, she provided back-up vocals we know now as Heimana Music. But the
could still blast out a tune.” She then goes
and keyboard in the studio and performed realities of life and new directions see the
on to tell me that she would often be told
with a variety of Cook Islands artists trio disband when George and Tina both
that it was not an instrument for a lady
around Auckland. This was where Kathy move overseas and Kathy now embarks
but her Dad supported her to be multi
learnt her versatility and the ins and outs on her career as a solo artist. Under the
talented. Kathy fills me in that her family
of live entertainment. performance name of Katarina she is
was very musical and as he tried to get all
supported by Raro Records owner Nia
of her siblings involved Kathy was the one

20 • ESCAPE
night of the week and as if she isn’t busy Talking with Kathy I know that her Gospel
enough Kathy is about to embark on Album will be an inspired piece of work
a new journey investing in a hut at the and once her school is up she will be a
Punanga Nui market in Avarua which will formidable teacher. I am excited that
become the ‘Kathy Brown School of Music Kathy will be developing a resource centre
and Performance’ where she will pass for our young people to tap in to their own
on her skills and knowledge to the next aspiring musical talents. Kathy is helping
generation of performers. “After all these to create the new bright patterns of the
years of performing I want to help develop Musical Tivaevae of Cook Islands music.
Heather and goes on to produce three solo the young ones. I can teach guitar, ukulele,
albums under her own recording label Ariki piano, vocal training so I am really excited
When you are in Rarotonga you can
Records. to get this underway”
see Kathy performing at the following
“I chose to play in restaurants when Tina When I ask Kathy if she has plans for places:
and George left, first at the Edgewater another album she lets me know that her
• Monday - Moana Restaurant
for 6 years followed by the Rarotongan plans for a gospel album are underway
Hotel , then Pacific Resort but really I with a possible release for the end of the • Thursday & Sunday – The Muri Night
have played just about every resort and year she laughs “I have gone full circle and market
club on the Island!” Kathy’s style fits in come back to my roots, back to the church • Wednesday & Friday nights and
to those venues so very easily because giving thanks to the Lord for the great Sunday lunch at the Islander Hotel
she is a performer who loves to play talent he blessed me with so a Gospel • Kathy’s albums are available from
slow easy listening music and has an Album is my composition in my Reo (Cook Raro Records in Avarua Township and
extensive repertoire. That is why she is Islands Maori language)”. Heimana Music in Auckland
one Cook Islands Musician that is never
short of work, playing just about every

Cook Islands Retailers


Moana Gems
The Pearl Lounge
Paka’s Pearls
Goldmine

Far from the clamour of our everyday urban


world, in the vast blueness of the Pacific,
lies the pristine necklace of the Northern
Cook Islands. The remote home of Avaiki
pearls. From their clear depths, the profusion
of green, blue, aubergine and silvery hues
in Avaiki pearls capture the rich colours
of the lagoon.

For discerning jewellers and jewellery buyers


who demand beauty, rarity and integrity,
Avaiki pearls have a special appeal. Only the
highest grades of pearls sustainably harvested
from the lagoon become Avaiki pearls.

Their consistently deeper nacre creates higher


lustre and resilience - a rare beauty to stand
the test of time.

www.avaikipearls.com ESCAPE • 21
Rarotonga, the most populous of the Cook Islands, captivates about 120,000
hearts a year. Whether you’ve been here once or have been returning annually for

se
decades, you know Rarotonga as paradise, an escape from the drudgery of

di
traffic and consumerism, a window into a simpler past.

Para
Rarotonga –
a pacific

Story: Rachel Reeves

O
nce you’ve visited an outer island, When there’s nothing on either television about their canoes
your perspective changes; you channel, when you don’t have easy access on plaques at Avana,
notice the modern conveniences to Wi-Fi, you learn to be outside, smell the site of their departure – but others
available on Rarotonga, the trucks and the flowers, taste the fruit, appreciate the were hooked. They had travelled over
supermarkets and nightclubs, but still sun and stars, and commit to memory thousands of kilometres, searching for
you appreciate the pace of life. Still you the natural beauty that’s been seducing islands, navigating not with GPS but by
notice that there aren’t any stoplights and travelers for centuries. reading the stars, swells, and skies. They
the same musician greets every flight. were migratory people, comfortable at
You notice that people wave at oncoming The first visitors to Rarotonga were the sea, but on Rarotonga they built homes
traffic. You notice there are only two bus Māori people who came, depending on of coconut trunks and fronds, planted
routes: clockwise and anti-clockwise. who you believe, from either Avaiki – the crops, and created a society in which
You notice that on Rarotonga, time slows mythological centre of Polynesia – or East everyone had enough to eat. Rarotonga’s
down.
Photo: Kirby Morejohn
Asia or South America. Some continued inhabitants split into three villages –
on to settle New Zealand – you can read Takitumu, Te Au O Tonga, and Puaikura,

22 • ESCAPE
each with its own governing chief. skin, past coconut palms, banana and
Centuries later the Europeans arrived, papaya trees, and remain undecided about
and were also entranced by the island’s whether you love this place.
breathtaking beauty. A book written in
1842 documenting early missionary work Rarotonga might be just 32 kilometres
describes Rarotonga this way: “its hills around, but she is versatile, with creeks
and valleys are rich in the fruits of the and swimming holes and waterfalls some
earth: mighty trees overshadow the land, locals don’t even know about. Take a walk
and grow down to the very borders of the or ride a scooter along the back road
sea; not in a dense unwholesome forest, or into the mountains; hear the air get
shutting out the light of the sun; but quieter and the birds get louder. Watch the
scattered here and there among the green bush get thicker. You won’t get lost if you
hills, and affording a delicious shade; remember to use the sound of the waves
some are covered with beautiful flowers as your compass.
and some with light foliage, waving like Be captivated and charmed
plumes in the wind.”
From the air
The best way to see all of Rarotonga is
by Cook Island’s only
Nearly 200 years later, Rarotonga’s
splendour continues to make this kind from the air. If you miss the view when the
plane lands, and if you’re willing to shell
Semi-Submersible
of impact. Despite the luxury resorts
out the money, Air Rarotonga does private
Avatiu Harbour
and 24-hour petrol stations that
have since sprung from its soil, the aerial tours in a small Cessna. A cheaper
option is to hike one of the island’s many
island is still the kind of beautiful that 5 min walk (west) from Punanga Nui Market
makes your heart swell. You can’t peaks. Most require a tour guide, but a
hike to The Needle, and across the middle Ph +682 55901 or +682 55903
watch an Arorangi sunset or climb one
of Rarotonga’s mountains without of the island, is manageable and clearly
feeling awestruck by the beautiful marked. You’ll need good fitness and good
world we live in. You can’t drive a shoes. Locals are friendly; ask anyone
motorbike around the island, with the how to get to the start of the “cross-island
wind in your face and the salt on your walk” in Avatiu and they’ll point you in the
right direction.

Tours leave 9am, 11am, 2pm and 4pm


(sea conditions dependent)
Bookings essential for 9am and 4pm tours
ESCAPE
Please arrive 10 minutes prior • 23
to departure time
The ascent is steep, but the view from felt. They would have been at once weary you want to get certified – visit one of the
the top makes the trudge worthwhile. from the long voyage and awestruck by three dive shops on the island.
From The Needle, one of Rarotonga’s the dramatic mountains and white-sand
tallest mountains, you can see every beaches of their new home. You can rent kayaks, take yoga classes
shore, ringed by a translucent lagoon, There are dozens of ways to experience on stand-up paddleboards or sign up
the white foam of waves crashing on the this view. for a kitesurfing lesson. You can swim to
reef, and the yawning blue Pacific. It’s the The Boiler – what’s left of the SS Maitai,
kind of view that makes you feel tiny and You can spend the day on a fishing shipwrecked in 1916 – and then jump off it
insignificant, but also like you rule the charter, casting for deep-sea fish under into the sea.
world. the tropical sun, or you can take a ride on
a glass-bottom boat. Both Captain Tamas If you prefer to stay on the shore, engage
Descending down the other side of Lagoon Cruizes and Koka Lagoon Cruises with the sea by watching an outrigger
The Needle will lead you to Wigmore’s make daily trips to Koromiri, a motu (islet) canoe race, held weekly during the sport’s
Waterfall, one of the locals’ favourite off Muri Beach. Each tour features a local season. In November teams arrive from
swimming spots. string band and a barbecued lunch of all over the world to compete in Vaka Eiva,
freshly caught fish. At low tide, the Muri an international paddling competition
For a more informative cross-island lagoon is shallow enough to walk to the and Rarotonga’s largest sporting event.
experience, book a tour with Pa, a motu with a picnic lunch and a towel. Between the months of July and October,
traditional healer who grew up climbing Dive shops hire out snorkeling gear, and be on the lookout for whales. You can learn
mountains and studying the medicinal the best place to see marine life is in an more about them at the Whale & Wildlife
properties of plants. Pa takes tourists area protected by a ra’ui – a traditional Centre in Atupa.
across the island six days a week. ban on fishing and collecting seafood,
imposed and lifted by chiefs. Signs mark And if you’re a surfer, you know the drill:
the ra’ui; most snorkelers prefer the ra’ui respect the locals. It’s their wave.
From the water at Fruits of Rarotonga in Tikioki and at
To behold Rarotonga from the sea is to The Rarotongan Resort & Spa in Arorangi.
channel the joy its settlers must have If you’re a certified SCUBA diver – or if
On land
There’s always something to do on
Rarotonga. There’s sport to watch – on
Saturdays, village clubhouses host rugby,
rugby league, netball, cricket, lawn
bowling, and soccer matches, depending
on the season. They also throw socials
afterward, with cheap drinks and low entry
fees.

There’s a nine-hole golf course in Nikao,


with a bar and eatery inside its clubhouse,
and two miniature golf courses in Arorangi.
There’s also a driving range in Vaimaanga.
You can play paintball and laser tag; take
cycling, quad, or buggy tours that go
around the island; or hire bicycles (either
manual or electric) to explore the side and
back roads.

You can take photos of the abandoned


Sheraton – a hotel that was never finished
because its developer, who had links to
the Italian mafia, disappeared. If you
believe the local legend, a curse on the
land stalled the project. In Titikaveka, you
can visit Maire Nui gardens, a sprawling,

24 • ESCAPE
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carefully manicured jungle with a quaint café. There are several art
galleries around the island, and you can buy handcrafted ukuleles
from inmates at the Arorangi Prison.

The Punanga Nui marketplace on a Saturday morning is an


essential itinerary item. For locals, it’s a social outing; everyone

CAR & BIKE RENTAL


goes. From 6 a.m., you can visit the open-air market to get your
fresh nu (coconut water) and local fruits and vegetables. You can
also buy cooked food, both international – the crepes and waffles
are popular – and local delicacies. There’s something for every
eater, from smoothies to stir-fry to sausage rolls. The Punanga Nui MADE EASY!!!
market is also a one-stop souvenir shop. You can buy everything
from island music to large handmade quilts to coconut oil to
hand-painted pareu (sarongs). Mamas sell hats and bags woven
out of coconut fibre. Pearl farmers sell their black pearls, cultivated
and harvested on the island of Manihiki, 1100 kilometres north of
SCOOTERS
Rarotonga. from as low as
If you miss the Punanga Nui market, there are souvenir shops $12.50 a day
around the island, most of them in Avarua, where you can pick
up something for friends and family members who had the great
misfortune of not joining you in paradise.

A special way to immerse in the island culture is to attend a


Sunday service at the Cook Islands Christian Church. The Cook
Islands, like much of Polynesia, readily embraced Christianity;
though the missionaries ruled in authoritarian ways, imposing
outrageous fines and penalties on the disobedient, their gospel
stuck. Church is a pillar of any Cook Islands community, both at *All prices are PER DAY
home and overseas. Congregations are welcoming if you dress
modestly, behave respectfully, and take some gold coins for the 3 CONVENIENT LOCATIONS
HEAD OFFICE: (Arorangi): +682 22632 Open 7 days
TOWN OFFICE: +682 24632 Open 6 days (Mon – Sat)
MURI OFFICE: +682 21632 Open 7 days

PLUS A WIDE RANGE OF PEOPLE MOVERS & LARGE


ESCAPE • 25 CARS
AT DISCOUNTED PRICES. JUST ASK OUR STAFF!!
offering plate. The power of the imene the country became self-governing,
tuki – a blend of traditional chanting and and every August, Rarotonga holds a
Christian hymns – will stir your soul. festival to celebrate. Called Te Maeva Nui,
the weeklong event features a parade
Two museums in Avarua – the of floats decorated with local foliage
government-run National Museum and and a spectacular nightly show at the
the private Cook Islands Library & Museum National Auditorium, in which villages and
Society – are excellent resources for islands compete in singing, dancing, and
those seeking more information about drumming.
Rarotonga and its history. The latter hires
out books, or you can buy beach reads at
Bounty Bookshop in Avarua. Weddings
Rarotonga is a popular spot for destination
weddings; hundreds of tourists get married
For beautiful food to suit any palette, try
here each year. On-island wedding
one of Rarotonga’s many restaurants;
planners can design a special ceremony
more information is available within the
on the beach, and liaise with hair and
pages of this magazine. Whether you’re in
makeup artists, caterers, a celebrant, and
the mood for freshly caught fish, a burger,
photographers/videographers before you
pizza from a wood-fired oven, French
arrive. All you have to do is bring your
Come in to view our extensive fare, or Asian fusion, Rarotonga’s got a
loved ones and prepare mentally for a
restaurant for you.
range of sarongs, island clothing, wedding you won’t soon forget.
footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s
largest selection of souvenirs, From your seat Cook Islanders are notoriously generous
crafts and gift ideas. Celebrations of culture occur almost people, some of the most hospitable in the
nightly. Attending an “island night” a must world. They will make you feel welcome,
during a holiday to Rarotonga. You get a as long as you treat them with respect, the
chance to watch local dancing, energetic way you would anyone who invites you
and sensuous, and hear local drumming, into her home. Be mindful of the fragile
reportedly the best in the Pacific. If you island environment also; as the travel
dread the limelight, beware the ura piani, adage goes, take nothing but photos and
when dancers recruit tourists of the leave nothing but footprints.
opposite sex for a number. But above all, enjoy yourself and a place
that makes you feel a little bit more alive.
At an island night, you’ll also get to try When you leave, you will join the ranks of
local food. Dishes like ika mata (fresh hundreds of thousands of people around
raw fish in coconut cream), rukau (taro the world who think often of, and talk
leaves in coconut cream), taro, and poke often about, Rarotonga, who dream of the
(arrowroot and coconut cream with a day they’ll return.
pudding-like texture) are available at some
shops and restaurants, but at an island
night you can have them all, buffet-style.
Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325
Hotels and cultural centres offer island
Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 nights for a range of budgets; talk to your
Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 accommodator about your options.

Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325 If you’re on Rarotonga in August, you’ll get
to experience the ultimate celebration of
Hats Cook Islands culture. A bit of background:
Rarotonga’s chiefs consented to becoming
a British protectorate in 1888; all of the
Cook Islands were later handed over to
colonisers from New Zealand. In 1965,
Salt &
Pepper
shakers

treasure@oyster.net.ck
26 • ESCAPE
Quality
Cook Islands
Pearls
From our very own
Manihiki Island Farm
COOK ISLANDS
Top Jewellery & Gift Store
BEST PRICES • QUALITY • SELECTION • SERVICE

BLACK PEARL JEWELLERY


- Avaiki Black Pearls -
Karen Walker Jewellery
Polynesian Rings in Gold and Silver
Wedding/Engagement & Dress Rings
Gold & Silver Chains, Charms, Earrings
Lladro • Amber • Jade • Coral • Opal

For the best deal in the Cook Islands come to


Goldmine, Main Road, Avarua

P. 24823 | F. 24824 | email: goldmine@oyster.net.ck


www.rarotongablackpearls.com

COOK ISLANDS ROAD RULES


The main island of Rarotonga is circled by 2 roads – the main road along the coast or Ara
Tapu and the back road or Ara Metua. Driving is on the left hand side of the road – the
same as in New Zealand, Australia and United Kingdom. If you have a full driving licence
from your home country then you are entitled to drive in the Cook islands for up to 6
months. If you are here longer then you must apply for a Cook Islands driving licence which
can be obtained from the Cook Islands Police headquarters in downtown Avarua.

THE ROAD RULES ARE SIMPLE...


1 Maximum speed at all times for all vehicles is 50 km/h
2 If you do not have a Cook Islands motor cycle licence you must wear a helmet.
3 In villages, passing schools and in town the maximum
speed is 30 km/h PEARL FARMER • RETAILER
4 In villages, passing schools and in town the • WHOLESALER
maximum speed is 30 km/h
5 Drink driving is an offence – you could face
Court and if convicted a fine or jail sentence Lesley & Temu Okotai
6 Be aware of dogs or animals running out from Harbour House, Avatiu
properties wandering mainly on the back road
P. 20635
You are here for a good time, do not ruin it through
speed or drink driving. Call a Taxi 28862, 50908, 72888
farmdirectpearls@gmail.com
or take an organised tour of the Island.

IN AN EMERGENCY CALL 999


NON EMERGENCIES: Police 22499 • Hospital 22664 • Power faults 25257
AITUTAKI: Police 31015 • Hospital 31698 • Fire 31829
ATIU: Police 33120 • Hospital 33664

ESCAPE • 27
island
cuisine

FLAMBÉ waterfall that compliments flame torches


throughout the garden.

RESTAURANT Live nightly entertainment on opening


Crown Beach Resort & Spa nights, with the addition of a fire dance
display on Fridays.
Situated directly at the entrance to the
Crown Beach Resort, Flambé Restaurant With a menu that not only uses as much
was opened on the 23rd of May 2016. local produce and fish as possible, but also Our outdoor Bar, boasts restaurant
Since its inception, our team of dedicated offers international dishes that include themed inspired cocktails and a large
and attentive staff have lovingly taken ostrich, venison, duck, and much more. beverage selection of varietals, wines,
the Flambé name and its reputation for This restaurant’s style of cuisine celebrates bubbles, beers, and non-alcoholic
dynamic service and outstanding cuisine the classical culinary art of Flambé, with beverages.
to another level of fine dining in Rarotonga. succulent meat cuts and local fish taking
The Flambé menu has been inspired by on that characteristic char-grilled delicious Flambé also caters for private events for
a Cook Island legend of how fire was finish. the groups wanting something different,
introduced into the World. It now blends spectacular, and a fine dining experience.
the fusion of Fire and Ice in its menu and Desserts at Flambé are a delectable Flambé is also Adults only – a bonus for
ambient outlook. celebration of the taste buds. The the guests wishing to have a peaceful,
Signature dessert of the Crepe Suzettes intimate, and authentic evening.
The ambience boasts the use of original provides entertainment for the eyes
local artwork, a locally made champagne being prepared especially for guests at Open for dinner only Tuesday to
flute chandelier, mood lighting, an outside their table, or, that of a hand-made ice Saturday. Fire dance show on Saturday
dining gazebo and bar, and a coral igloo - encapsulating the famous Belgium only. Bookings essential P +682 23953
chocolate and almond semifreddo.

28 • ESCAPE
OPEN 7 NIGHTS · MAR – OCT
WED – MON • REST OF THE YEAR

Club Raro
Avarua
(Town)

Matavera
N
Edgewater
W E
Arorangi
Muri
S
The Rarotonga Beach Resort

Located in Arorangi on the Main Road Titikaveka

(500 metres from the Edgewater toward Avarua)

· Open from 6pm - best to reserve a table!


· Return transfers available by
arrangement & location
· Live music with Tani & Rose on Mon nights
· Fully licensed Check out our
Gordon, Rebecca & The Kikau Team ‘all-day’ breakfast menu
Phone: 26860 ˙ Mobile: +682 55869
Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck
and join us for awesome
coffee, friendly service
and great home style
cooking.
cape Magazine Ad Oct v1.indd 2 21/10/16 3:37 pm

Try our custard square


and cheesecake
– local favourites!
Open Sunday – Friday 8.00am – 3pm
Located on the main road at Muri Village.
Wifi available.

P. 20858
a supply of large crayons, and a few
children’s books are on the table between
comfy couches. Locals often come to the
café for coffee or for one of their delicious

KORU CAFÉ
meals. Visitors are delighted by the variety
on the menu and the specials of the day.
Aitutaki Specials include lightly seared fresh caught
tuna, or tapas such as steak with a mild
Good Food, Good Friends, Good Times blue cheese dressing served on a board.
Spicy tomato soup is available in season,
This family owned and run café, located and sometimes a huge bowl of chicken
on the way to O’otu Beach, first opened soup – good for the soul. Crispy Salt and
in January 2008 and has a well-deserved Pepper Squid is a local favorite along with
reputation for consistently delicious food other seafood dishes. All day breakfast “death by chocolate” brownie with ice
and great service. A local patron described items include omelettes made of local free cream, are “to die for.”
it as “professional cuisine with creative range eggs, brioche French toast with fruit
flair”. The café is proudly owned and compote, cream and real maple syrup, and Special events include jazz concerts with
operated by Steve and Trina Armstrong. rashers of crispy bacon. open mic, and they are open for dinner
Trina says, “It had been a dream of ours to service during the high season as well.
one day move to Aitutaki to build a café Hearty sandwiches are served on Guests are happy to discover the made to
and just enjoy life...and well, here we are. homemade breads all baked onsite, order take-away meals such as BBQ pack
We’re just loving it.” They and their three accompanied by tasty sauces and salsas. and “Heat and Eat” meals, or they can
children enjoy living near Trina’s parents There are gluten free options and several order in advance anything they choose
who host an accommodation on the island vegetarian dishes seasoned with fresh from the menu. Delivery also available.
and have a plantation where they grow herbs, as well as a huge steak sandwich Koru Café (www.korucafe.biz) is an ideal
much of the local produce used at the café. for big appetites. Wifi is available and place to bring family and friends for a
tourists often can be seen booting up their gourmet feast with home-style touches by
Why Koru Café? Trina explains: “Koru is a laptops or tablets. this island family.
New Zealand Maori word for the design
used as our logo. The koru depicts the Koru Cafe’s original desserts, from coconut By Linda Kavelin-Popov
growth of a new fern – the opening of the cheesecake to sticky date pudding to www.lindakavelin.com
frond – and represents new beginnings,
growth, peace and harmony; which is very
symbolic for us, and our move to Aitutaki
for our new start.”

The café is open seven days a week from


7 AM to 3 PM, and is an ideal place for a
coffee, all day breakfast or a wide range
of lunch dishes and daily specials. A local
said, “They serve the best coffee on the
island. They have an espresso machine
and they know how to use it.” They use
Lavazza Italian coffees, both hot and iced.
Patrons can sit outside at umbrella shaded
picnic tables or inside the restaurant,
surrounded by large screened windows
with soft Pacific breezes blowing through.
Children are given colouring pages, and

30 • ESCAPE
in a

r
ne
on
t ai
c

Please
support the
advertisers
Casual Beach Side Cafe
Authentic Thai food,

in this
tasty Mexican, burgers,
fish and chips, coffee

magazine…
home-made desserts
+ we’re fully licensed.
Opening Hours
Sunday to Friday
they make it possible
8.30am - 2.30pm
for you to read this
Ph 20020
for free.
Find
us on your
map at the
halfway mark
down South at
Titikaveka...
SALTWATER CAFE - RAROTONGA
2013 & 2016

ESCAPE • 31
www.themooringfishcafe.com
If you are a guest of the hotel, eggs are
included as part of the breakfast buffet as
the hotel is owned by the local egg farmer.
Non guests are permitted to use the pool,
as long as they order Food and Beverage
from the Restaurant. The pool is one of
the bigger ones on the island and located
in the centre of the hotel complex which
keeps it nice and sheltered and of course
is child free.

There are a couple of theme nights like


Polynesian Island Night on the Wednesday
(we make an exception for kids on this
night). This is seriously one of the best

SILVER SANDS SilverSands located at the boutique adult shows with amazing costumes and
only Muri Beach Club Hotel has it all! accompanied by the fire dance show.

RESTAURANT The food is simply superb and caters to all


Really good value at only $59per person
for a huge buffet feast with a bit of
Muri Beach Club Hotel tastes including those that are gluten and everything, plus the show up close and
lactose intolerant. personal.
Silversands is perfectly positioned to give Muri Beach Club Hotel is open every day of
you a choice of dining experiences that are the year, including public holidays(without Pig and Prawn night is the Friday and a
unrivalled. Whether it is casual poolside the surcharge). SilverSands has some of bit more of a hands on experience. The
with cocktail in hand, inside the restaurant the friendliest staff you can come across, fall off the bone Pork Spare Ribs and the
with a melody of island tunes sashaying and if you are really lucky and order a tantalising King Prawns are served on hot
across the room in a more formal setting, Snickers Bar cocktail then it is personalised plates accompanied by a much needed
or being spell bound by the views of the by writing your name on the glass which is finger bowl.
stunning Muri Lagoon. really cool!
Sunday ends the week with Reef and Beef
night, the juiciest tender steaks or freshly
caught fish, with a menu of side dishes - I
am getting hungry just thinking about it.

All the theme nights are accompanied


by Live Music which certainly adds to the
ambience.

So in summary, great staff, great location,


great food, no kids – what more could one
ask for!

32 • ESCAPE
Tuoro
Licensed

Casual and friendly


Asian street-style café
Muri Village
Fresh flavours of Mexico for
dinner, plus fresh fish, pizza, Asian Fusion including
vegan and gluten free. vegan & gluten free options

Open for Dinner from 5.30pm


Open for dinner from 5.30pm
Takeaways available Great Food!
Closed Sunday & Tuesday
Great Views!
Takeaways Available
See you there amigo! Great serVice!
Muri Village
P. 20693 or 26487
Phone: 22232 or 26487
Lunchtime casual dining with a
selection of flavoursome tapas
& main dishes. All homemade

TAMARIND
using fresh local produce that will
tantalise your taste-buds, at very
HOUSE Fresh Delicious Tropical Cuisine
affordable prices. Black Rock Lager
on tap. Located in a tropical garden
RESTAURANT & BAR at Black Rock Villas with superb
elevated views over the lagoon &
ocean. Live music on Sundays.
Unique al fresco dining in town
Bookings Advised
Open for Lunch from 11am
LUNCH
LUNCH: TUES – FRI 11.30 AM – 2 PM
Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun
THUR & FRI 11:30am - 2pm
(CLOSED MON AND SAT LUNCH) Extensive choice of vegan and fish dishes
DINNER: MON – SAT FROM 5.30 PM
DINNER
SUNDAY BRUNCH: (APRIL – OCTOBER)
MONFROM
- SAT from
9 AM – 1.305.30pm
PM
A
A beautiful
beautiful heritage colonial house,
located
locatedonon the
the seafront, just 33 minutes
minutes
from
from the
seafront, just
town centre.
the town centre. Takeaways Available
Dine by
Dine by candlelight
candlelight inin the
thepeaceful
peacful
seclusion of a romantic tropical setting.
seclusion of a romantic tropical setting.
THE PERFECT
THE PERFECT VENUE FOR
VENUE FOR YOUR
YOUR
WEDDING
WEDDINGORORPRIVATE FUNCTION
PRIVATE FUNCTION

EMAIL tamarind@oyster.net.ck Open Monday - Saturday


www.tamarindrarotonga.com newplace@oyster.net.ck
PHONE 26487 Ph 22279 or 22299 PH. 21233
blackrok@oyster.net.ck
ESCAPE • 33
www.blackrockvillas.com
NAUTILUS
RESORT
RESTAURANT
Nautilus Resort Rarotonga, absolute
beachfront overlooking the sparkling Muri
Beach and lagoon and just 20 minutes
by road from Rarotonga’ s international
airport is already adding to its trophy
cabinet by taking out the inaugural
Supreme Award for Restaurant of the Year,
topping a group of Cook Islands eateries organic fresh produce and plenty of fresh A la carte favourites from Carlos are, of
and wowing the public with their culinary fish and seafood. course the traditional Cook Island dish,
creations by winning the La Chaine High-ceilinged and overlooking an infinity with a Nautilus twist on ‘Ika Mata’ – purely
des Rotisseurs and Cook Islands Chefs pool that seems to flow directly into the for the use of the absolutely freshest
Association Restaurant of the Year Awards lagoon, the restaurant opens at 7.30am use of raw game fish Tuna and our local
dinner. for breakfast, which drifts through to lunch coconut, and the Nautilus Signature dish
and an inviting all-day menu and then – ‘Polynesian Fish’ using the very best
The laid-back luxury of Nautilus Resort slides effortlessly through Nauti Hour (aka fish available each day (at the time of
offers a fresh new dining experience Happy Hour) and into dinner until late. writing the deep sea Red Snapper was
showcasing signature tastes featuring a featured), served on a bed of black ink
Polynesian inspired restaurant, absolute Nautilus Executive Chef Carlos Rebello (squid) risotto, fennel, saffron aioli and
pure South Pacific beachfront. The cuisine is originally from Brazil, growing up in pineapple salsa. For the sweet lovers – the
is Cook Island - Asian - European fusion, the professional kitchens of his mother Nautilus ‘Banana Cigars’ are always a
using local seasonal ingredients and and grandmother’s own family Brazilian favourite – using local Rarotongan ‘finger
produce, with of course an emphasis on restaurant … but drawn to the love of his bananas’ wrapped in a light filo pastry,
surfing and beach life (and a Kiwi wife!) the with homemade chilli chocolate sauce
last 8 years have been spent working in and resort made whiskey ice cream. Meat
Australian and New Zealand restaurants. lovers are in for a treat with a new menu
just launched featuring ‘Duo of Beef’ –
When asking Carlos his #1 reason that took two cuts of beef, succulent filet mignon
him to work in the Cooks, it was the ability matched with a slow cooked short rib,
to harvest the most freshest wild produce served with garlic potato puree and local
from the sea (especially his favourite fish – Rukau (cooked Taro leaves). For Under-12s
proximity to the freshest Tuna), and being there’ll be delicious and nutritious fresh
able to work closely with local villagers pasta dishes, meatballs, and of course the
(and assisting local growers) to provide freshest hand caught fish and ‘best’ chips.
seasonal indigenous produce such as the
Dragonfruit, local varieties of Taro, and To accompany the ‘smart’ food they also
Maniota (similar to arrowroot) - creating have a casual Beach Bar serving light
unique dishes to Nautilus called ‘Smart meals from 11am to 9pm, where lunch
Food’. Additionally, he grows organic includes a selection of meat and fish
produce right here at the resort … he can burgers. And don’t forget the famed Nauti
explore and teach guests about Cook Mojito, which includes a couple of secret
Island native fruits, vegetables and herbs ingredients and pioneered the sugar-cane
all in the Nautilus’s own ‘edible gardens’. swizzle stick . . . Nauti but nice!
This philosophy is a resort wide planting
philosophy that sees abundant grown
produce throughout the resort.

34 • ESCAPE
Located at PUNGANA NUI MARKET
(BESIDE THE PLAYGROUND),
AVARUA

A u t h ent i c e
in
A TAST E O F AS IA

Asian C u i s Sashimi & Carpaccio


Ika Mata
Seafood Platters
Fish, Chips & Salad
Fish N Chips Gourmet Sandwiches
$13.00
All day breakfast
And heaps more

A short stroll east of town | Phone - 28830


Ika Mata
$10.00

Now with online menu - www.bamboojacks.net Mon 8am – 4pm Fishermans


Platter
We also have an air-conditioned private room for Tues – Fri 8am – 9pm
Sat 8am – 2pm
$18.00

dining & meetings (with conference facilities) P. 23 577 Phone orders welcome

Mon – Sat 6:30am – 4pm

P. 23 575
Phone orders welcome

No.1 !
for seafood
Fresh Sushi
Cabinet food daily
Freshly squeezed
Juice Boosts
Healthy & delicious
Smoothies
Espresso Coffee
& Cake
And heaps more
try our
Pizza Shack Located
eat in or take out beside the
playground
Punanga
PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck Nui Market,
Avarua
Best chocolate
ESCAPE • 35
brownie in Raro!
gone
fishing Story:
Phillip Nordt
OPAH CARPACCIO
1/ flakey salt, fresh lime juice, freshly
grated coconut, green onion, petite

OPAH
salad of herbs.

Recipe per servIng


Ingredients
The Moon fish 150g, freshly grated coconut

O
50g, green onions x 2 tablespoons, Herbs:
pahs (also commonly known as
Coriander, Maire – bush basil, mesclun
moonfish) are large, colourful,
salad handful, Asian rice wine dressing,
deep-bodied pelagic lampriform
fish. The moonfish is actually a commercial Method Method
Fish Species. This fish can get very large and Centre Plate the small Mesclun & fresh Start by preparing all vegetables, ready to
weigh up to 1,000 or more kilos.
herb salad and add light Asian dressing. serve.
Cut slices of moonfish around 3-5 cm
The upper part of the fish looks like tuna Sauté Cucumber shavings with all
and tastes like a cross between tuna and diameter and place 2 rounds around the
ingredients in a deep pan or wok with the
salmon, but their pectoral muscles - the plate and the petit salad. Sprinkle with
coconut Oil….season with salt/pepper.
ones that power the fins on the side of the freshly grated coconut, thin slices of green
body - look and taste like beef. Opah can Place the slice of Opah on top and cover to
onions, add lime juice, freshly cracked
be eaten raw, but they're also great on the steam for about 5 minutes.
pepper and flaky sea-salt (Marlborough….
barbecue or smoked. To Serve
but anything like Maldon will do).
Place vegetables on a plate and place
Today I am sharing a few secrets on what Salt & Pepper to taste.
Opah fillet on top, pour on sauce, squeeze
to do with fresh moon fish. The meat is soft Rito extra Virgin Coconut Oil, fresh lime
and can be carefully bruised, we fillet it some fresh lemon, garnish with the herbs
juice, garnish with fresh Coriander & Bush
carefully, considering the different parts of and serve.
Basil.
flesh for different uses, wrap them in cling
film or vac pack and put them straight on CHIMI CHURRI OF OPAH
ice. I do not like waste and decide for a little
STEAMED OPAH 3/
2/
plantain fritters, paw paw salsa,
appetiser with left-over bits.
over cucumber shavings, palm smoked paprika & lime aioli.
sugar, red onions, ginger, mirin & rito
4 Persons
extra virgin local coconut oil.
Ingredients
800g Opah fillets (200g of Opah red meat
Ingredients
fillet per person)
Moon Fish fillets from the upper part 200g
Plantain 600g, 2 tablespoons tapioca
each x 4
flour, 2 eggs, ½ red Onion julienne, Salt/
Red Onion quartered and cut into leaves x
Pepper to season.
4 tablespoons each
Plantain Fritter: Method: boil plantain,
Tamari Soy 1 tablespoon
cool then chop into thin long strips, add all
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil for frying x 2 above ingredients, shape in to patties and
tablespoons grill on griddle to serve.
Cucumber shavings 4 cups Chimi Churri Rub: 1 tablespoon of each:
Fresh ginger, fresh chilli, fresh garlic, spring
Palm sugar x 4 cubes
Onion, fresh coriander, cracked black
Red Onion wedges, 200g
pepper, Flaky Salt, Extra Virgin Coconut
Fresh Ginger 8 thin slices Oil, mix together with Opah Fillets and
Mirin ½ cup marinate up to one hour.

36 • ESCAPE
Paw Paw Salsa: ½ Paw Paw chopped into Bluesky Emerging Tourism
Leader Award 2018
brunoise (fine dice), ½ Red Onion chopped
– On the Beach (OTB) Restaurant & Bar
into brunoise, 2 tablespoons Coriander
chopped, 1 fresh Chilli chopped, 2 Lime
squeezed. Mix all ingredients together and
set aside for use.
Smoked Paprika/Lime Aioli: Use 1 cup
freshly house made or best Mayonnaise,
crush 2 Garlic cloves and make into paste
with salt, 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
powder, juice of 2 limes, mix together and
set aside for use.

Method & Serving of Opah Chimi Churri


Char grill or grill Opah Fillets on high heat
for 3 minutes on each side, fry plantain
patties on the griddle plate, centre plate
plantain. Place hot Opah Fillet on top of
plantain, dress with paw paw salsa over
and around and place a tablespoon of
smoked paprika & lime aioli on top of the
Opah, serve.
Bon Appetit, Phillip Nordt
Bachelor of Culinary Arts

with us?
Why come fishing
Our record fish
and high catch rate
speaks for itself!

• Half & Full Day Charters • Three boats available


• Shared or Private charters • Top quality Shimano gear

P. +(682) 55202 or +(682) 20683


E. fishing@marlinqueen.co.ck | www.marlinqueen.co.ck
Rarotonga’s best known & most trusted local crew

ESCAPE • 37
CAFES & Kikau Hut, Arorangi
Ph 26860

RESTAURANTS Tamarind House, Tupapa


Ph 26487
RAROTONGA
Please support these advertisers for making Bamboo Jacks, Taputaputea
Ph 28830
it free for you to take your copy home.
Kai Pizza, Punanga Nui
Bite Time/Body Fuel, Punanga Nui Ph 23336 or 53330
Ph 23577 or 23575

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner


The New Place, Avarua
La Casita, Muri Village Ph 22279 or 22299
Ph 20693
Nautilus Resort, Muri Village
Espresso Coffee OTB, Arorangi
Ph 22461
Ph 25125

Smoothies Shipwreck Hut @ Aro’a Beachside Inn


The Rickshaw, Muri Village
Ph 22232
Local Beers Ph 22166
Club Raro, Tupapa
Ice Cold Drinks Trader Jacks, Avarua
Ph 26464
Ph 22415

NZ & Australian Wines Oceans @ Crown Beach


Little Polynesian, Titikaveka
Ph 24280
Cold Pressed Juices Ph 23953
Silver Sands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel
Vibe, uptown Avarua Ph 23000

ALL DAY Ph 27619

A LA CARTE
Tumunu, Arorangi
Ph 20501
CAFES &
MENU Deli Licious, Muri Village
Ph 20858 RESTAURANTS
AITUTAKI
Gourmet Pies Pacific Resort Rarotonga
Ph 20427
Seafood Platters Aitutaki Village @ O’otu Beach
Ph 31526
Flambe @ Crown Beach
Sushi & Poke Bowls Ph 23953 Rumours Café @ Aitutaki Escape
Hot & Cold Cabinet Food The Yellow Hibiscus @ Palm Grove
Ph 31906
Ph 20002 Boatshed @ Popoara
Ph 31479
Located Uptown Avarua The Mooring Fish Café, Avana
Ph 25553 Koru Café
between Moana Gems & Tuki’s Pareu Ph 31110
Ariki’s Shack, Muri Village
OPEN: Mon - Thur 7am to 3pm Ph 27955 Tamanu Beach Restaurant
Ph 31810
Fri 7am to 9pm Sat 7am to 3pm Tuoro Café @ Black Rock Villas
Ph 21233 Pacific Resort Aitutaki
Ph Orders: +682 27619 Saltwater Café, Turoa
Ph 31720

Ph 20020

Aqua Restaurant @ Muri Beach Resort


Ph 22779

38 • ESCAPE
Pearl & Art Gallery

C O O K I S L A N D S P E A R L S

Simple Elegance & Timeless Beauty


Local Art by: Judith KunzLe - Limited edition Prints • ALLAn tuArA - traditional Carving

Located UPTOWN Avarua, Taputapuatea • ph (682) 22312 • www.moanagems.co.ck

ESCAPE • 39
Atoll
The of

Pukap u ka
People, Prayer,
and Play
Story: Amelia Rachel Hokule’a
Borofsky
Photos: Talcual Films
Homecoming Documentary

M ost tourists will never make it and Manihiki on a private jet, but the stay is usually only a day. To
visit Pukapuka, visitors need: permission from the island chiefs, a
to Pukapuka because of the very flexible travel schedule, money, and patience. Pukapuka must
be one of the hardest places in the world to reach. It is no wonder
transport challenges. Cargo boats that tourists rarely make it to this northernmost atoll of the Cook
go four times a year, but have no Islands.

set schedule. The boat is perpetually You can, however, easily visit Pukapuka from an armchair. Many
scheduled for “tomorrow.” If you do have written riveting accounts of the atoll. More anthropologists
have studied Pukapuka then any other island in the Cook Islands.
manage to catch the boat, the five- My father, Robert Borofsky, wrote an anthropological account
Making History: Pukapukan and Anthropological Constructions of
day boat journey involves sea-water Knowledge. The Beagleholes wrote The Ethnography of Pukapuka.
sprays and clothes that remain damp Japanese archaeologists carbon dated dog bones found on
Pukapuka back two thousand years. It is a place well studied and
for days. There is little room for archived.
romanticising the cargo boat journey
Adventure novelists have left their mark here too. Johnny Frisbie,
to Pukapuka. born of a Pukapukan mother and an American father, wrote her
memoir Miss Ulysses of Pukapuka, at age fifteen. Her father,
Once arriving in Pukapuka, a visitor can stay for the three-days it Robert Dean Frisbie, wrote the novels The Book of Pukapuka, Mr.
takes to offload the cargo or stay indefinitely until the next boat Moonlight’s Island, Island of Desire among others. I’m at work
comes. Air Rarotonga flies occasional charters to Pukapuka, but on a book called Wale (Home) about my own experiences here.
government officials often fill the seats. When available, a one- With more Pukapukans living in New Zealand and Australia then
way ticket costs around eighteen hundred dollars. Air Rarotonga in Pukapuka, it is as much an imagined homeland. If you don’t
also offers a “Northern Atolls Expedition” of Pukapuka, Penryhn, physically make it to Pukapuka, you can close your eyes, take in

40 • ESCAPE
the wind, and imagine a place that sails
on a different plane. It is a place that
prioritizes play, people, and prayer.

On a typical morning, four-year-old


Tangitane splashes in the aquamarine
lagoon, singing a song to herself while
tickling the stomach of a speckled mud
crab. Her neighbour Anne-Tailor runs
to join her. The older children walk the
sandy road home from school. They strip
off their starched navy and white school
uniforms and jump into the lagoon too.
Kids wrestle one another and try to catch
sardines with their bare hands. The sun
descends over the palm trees casting a
warm mango-coloured glow over this
three square kilometre atoll. A church bell
rings. Mothers and older siblings gather
wet children home for a cold bucket
shower and a warm dinner of fish and On Pukapuka, children play from dawn to dusk.
taro.
With a population of four hundred and fifty
On Pukapuka, children play from dawn to
dusk. With a population of four hundred
and no cars, children feel safe to freely romp
and fifty and no cars, children feel safe through nature.
to freely romp through nature. For toys,
Tangitane has two hundred children, the go out in the noonday sun.” The intensity well that is the right time. Many of the
lagoon, and the mud crabs. In Pukapuka, of the heat means taking in the wind is men wear watches but few of them work.
the village, the natural surroundings, and an art form. Taking in the wind means The men follow the time of the tide. “We
older children raise one another. searching for the windiest spot, feeling are vampires,” laughs one teenager who
the light air dance on your skin, chattering has watched a few too many episodes of
Nature looks after the elderly too. Mama with a friend, and letting your thoughts Twilight. Life comes alive at night when the
Maoake and Mama Langi sit on the shore meander across the achingly sapphire cool wind blows.
of the lagoon “taking in the wind.” Every sky. Modernised young couples often
evening, they take in the wind, catch up on ride around on a motor-scooter along the Rather than functioning as a capitalist
the village gossip, and watch the children sandy roads to catch the wind. Finding society, Pukapuka functions as a
play. Mama Maoake is in her seventies or and taking in the wind is a full-time job. Polynesian commune. Pukapuka, along
eighties. She doesn’t know her age, and with Mangaia and Mitiaro, have no
who cares really. Having spent her entire The heat and natural environment forces land court. Traditional leaders make
life on the sister atolls of Nassau and time to move differently in Pukapuka. the decisions about land, practice, and
Pukapuka, she speaks little English. Some People often sleep during the day, and protocol. In Pukapuka, most of the land
days she weaves, some days she peels work hard at night when the air cools. is owned communally by the villages.
taro, some days she plays cards with the It makes sense to fish on the reef when Pio Lavalua, a chief of Ngake and
other mamas until three in the morning. the sun goes down and the fish sleep. current Executive Officer has a salt and
Most evenings, she sits with Mama Langi It makes sense to weave a mat with a pepper beard and enjoys philosophical
taking in the wind, angi angi te matangi, group of women when the moon is full. meanderings. He philosophises like a Yoda
while the children splash nearby. It makes sense to catch coconut crabs of the atoll. “Polynesians are the original
when they wander out of their holes at socialists,” he laughs while we take in the
Pukapuka sits only ten degrees below the night. The question, “what time are you wind. Everyone has land, food, and most
equator. The atoll is at nature’s mercy going fishing?” is usually answered with of the land is made up of communally
too. Summer brings a scorching heat and “it depends. I’m waiting on the tide.” If owned food reserves.
truly “only mad-dogs and Englishmen the tide is optimal at two in the morning,

ESCAPE • 41
The atoll is shaped like a three-bladed women go to the taro swamps. Children down collared shirts. Everyone takes a
fan with a giant lagoon connecting three catch kaipea, tiny land crabs that taste communion of nu, coconut water, and uto,
motus or islets. Only half of one of the sweet and earthy. Fish, taro, and coconuts the sprouted coconut. The coconut tree is
islets is inhabited full-time, the rest of sustain the population of four hundred the tree of life and so it makes sense to
the islets function as ecological food and fifty. The elegant motu system is use this as communion. Singing, prayer,
reserves. For six months of the year, the indigenous food security. and rest defines Sundays.
Kau Wo Wolo, the traditional chiefs close
them. During this time nature replenishes Not all food in Pukapuka, however, After prayer, comes play. “If Pukapuka is
itself. Sometime between March-April, the comes from the land and sea. The cargo about one thing,” says ‘Yoda’ Pio Lavalua,
village holds day-long meetings and after boat Lady Moana usually makes it from “it is about having fun.” Almost every
careful discussion, collectively decides Rarotonga to Pukapuka around four afternoon after work, the villages play
to open the food reserves. Everyone times a year. The sailing cargo boat KWAI sports. For three months at Christmas the
agrees on what days the ladies can go makes it from Hawaii to Pukapuka twice villages hold a very serious competition.
to the uwi (the collective taro swamps), a year. New appliances get offloaded (A Men play traditional games like tika tika,
how many uto (sprouted coconuts) will washing machine! A new truck!), and boxes throwing sticks to see whose stick lands
get distributed to each family, and on the upon boxes of “boat food.” Author Johnny the farthest. Women play lele ipu, racing
harvesting of which crabs and birds. This is Frisbie who grew up on the atoll writes, “it with a coconut shell on your head. Men
consensus democracy at work. was like being on another island when the and women compete in coconut husking,
trading schooner came to Pukapuka.” seeing who can husk one hundred
Motu Ko owned by Ngake village has coconuts the fastest. Traditional to
the sandy airport and plenty of coconut Men line up passing bags of rice, cartons Pukapuka, the young men hold an all-day
crabs. Motu Kotawa owned by Yato of frozen chicken, gas bottles, and boxes wrestling competition complete with its
village has numerous seabirds that nest of diapers down the beach. Children own special chants for the winning village.
in the Pukama trees. Motu Uta owned by delight in the treats of canned corned There is also cricket, tennis, and volleyball.
Loto village is easily accessible and filled beef, cabin bread, and mone mone The village that wins the Christmas games
with uto (sprouted coconuts). For the six (sweets). The villages and individual makes up pautautau, songs of ridicule
months the motu opens, families spend families order 50kg bags of flour, sugar, and holds bragging rights for the year. The
the weekends in the bush clearing and and rice to supplement their fish and taro. losing team fishes for the winning team.
collecting resources. The men fish. The The three shops on the island order extra Play is serious sport in Pukapuka.
food to last between boat trips. Twisties,
Tim-Tams, cans of Sprite, and packets of For the last few years, Talcual Films
twisty tobacco line their shelves. Nothing has worked on a documentary called
gets offloaded on Sunday. As the boat Homecoming: A Film About Pukapuka. The
leaves, life returns to its usual natural documentary promises to capture the
rhythm. strength of this community and record for
the first time the music that pervades life
Sunday in Pukapuka belongs to the on the atoll. All the photos for this story
Sabbath. Children wake early and wash come from the crew. More information
themselves behind their ears. They put on is available online. As producer Gemma
their finest threads, brush their hair with Cubero del Barrio says, “its truly a magical
comb and coconut oil, and slip their hardy spiritual place.”
feet into ornamental shoes. The first brass
church bell rings at six. Children line up in Pukapuka prioritizes people, prayer, and
their best clothes to attend the Protestant play. It teaches how to live closer to nature
or Catholic Church, and on Saturdays the and to rely on one another. It teaches how
Seventh Day Adventist. A cappella hymns to sing songs to the mud crabs and to
echo into the CICC church rafters, painted stop, sit, and take in the wind. While hard
in bright hues of sunshine, flamingo, and to physically reach, Pukapuka touches
sky. “The music literally makes me cry on a romantic imagination of ancient
with its spiritual beauty,” says Gemma Polynesia. You can’t help but feel closer
Cubero del Barrio while filming. On white to God and the infinity of nature on this
Sunday, the congregation is a sea of three square kilometre atoll surrounded by
white long dresses and bleached button unlimited shades of ultramarine.

42 • ESCAPE
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44 • ESCAPE
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chcomber
Bea – from ruin to renewal
Story: Rachel Smith

I
t was 1983 when David Bowie climbed When LMS operations ended in 1965, the business Beachcomber Ltd. “She agreed to
out a window at the Beachcomber. Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC) took give us a lease providing we did not tear
Today the scene from the movie ‘Merry ownership of all their church activities, the coral walls down. The walls were to us
Christmas Mr Lawrence’ is memorialised in and in 1967 with a growing congregation the focus of our rebuild plan.”
the Vinyl Revival corner of The Café, where the church investigated increasing the
you can sip a coffee, play some vinyl and capacity of the school. Some of the roof “The structure was sprouting trees from
check out the very window. was removed to look at the viability of the top of the walls and trees grew in
adding a second story, then along came the coral floor. Coral stones were piled in
The Beachcomber, now home to Cyclone Dolly which effectively removed what was the main part of the building
Beachcomber Pearl Market, Bergman the rest of the roof. where hurricane waves had dumped them
Gallery, The Print Room and The Café, over the years. David appreciated the
has a history packed with stories, people, A complete re-build was proposed, an aesthetics of the remains of the building
pearls and art. idea that was opposed by Makea Nui and decided that he should preserve
Teremoana Ariki on whose land the school every part of the building that spoke of its
Located just east of town in Taputapuatea, was built. Instead an alternate location for history.”
the original building was constructed by a larger construction, the Sinai Hall, was
the people of Te Au o Tonga as a Sunday found across the road. The new Beachcomber opened its doors
School for the London Missionary Society in 1992 as a pearl gallery, complete with
(LMS) back in 1845. At the time it was the The former Sunday School went on the original coral walls and mismatched
second limestone construction in the to house the Cook Islands Legislative window sill height. An art and craft gallery
country, used for reading, writing and Assembly, the precursor to the Cook was added later that year, followed by a
scripture classes in Cook Islands Maori, Islands Parliament, before being left empty glass studio and a stable to house their
and as a gathering point for the local and falling into a ruin. Clydesdale horse. Today, the stable and
community. A ruin to what stands today is a large jump the glass studio are long gone, and while
in imagination. It was a process that began Beachcomber has gone through many
“Lots of local characters remember this with Joan and David Gragg, who had transformations the focus on art and
building,” say Ben Bergman, owner of experience in renovating similar structures pearls remains the same.
Beachcomber and Director of Bergman and had long seen the potential in the site.
Gallery. Notably, Sir Thomas Davis, The Bergman family purchased the site
a former leader of the Cook Islands, “In 1990 we asked Makea Teremoana back in 2001 and under their ownership a
attended Side School when it was located Ariki for a lease on the land and building,” courtyard space was added and a café,
at the site. says Joan, with an eye to relocating their and perhaps most significantly in 2009 a

46 • ESCAPE
purpose built exhibition space. numbered and open prints of many of the
Beachcomber Contemporary Art artists who have exhibited work at the
showcased community and Pacific art for gallery.
15 years under Director Ben Bergman. It
naturally evolved into Bergman Gallery Right next door is the Beachcomber Pearl
in 2016, and has since exhibited shows of Market, which mixes pearls and interior
some of the Pacific’s top artists. design pieces with local art, such as ordinated by artist Ani O’Neill, and is the
textiles and painted furniture by artist Kay home of The Café.
“We started with a very strong base of George.
Cook Islands community artists,” says With all the Beachcomber has to offer, the
Ben. The exhibition history is a line-up of “We really want to involve people in focus for Ben Bergman has always been to
respected artists including Joan Gragg, making their own jewellery,” says Ben. “You showcase the very best of Modern Pacific
Mahiriki Tangaroa, Kay George, Ian George, can come in and sort through loose pearls Art, both to a local and international
Mike Tavioni, Eruera Nia, Tim Buchanan, – and choose the pearl you love.” audience.
Apii Rongo, Tabatha Forbes & Loretta Pearls are sourced from the pristine
Reynolds in addition to the five artists environment of Manihiki. For the customer “International shows allow us to broaden
now represented by the gallery - Reuben it is as simple as choosing a pearl and one our reach - to show we are capable of
Paterson, Andy Leleisi'uao, Tungane of the selection of available settings, with producing conceptual art statements,”
Broadbent, Sylvia Marsters and Benjamin the completed piece ready the following says Ben. “And to show off the destination
Work. day. – to make people aware of the Cook
Islands.”
“We now have a dedicated project space The courtyard at Beachcomber doubles
and dedicated print space,” says Ben, as an exhibition space, such as last year’s Contact: Facebook – Bergman Gallery
with The Print Room a new addition to Vaka Eiva paddle art exhibition co- www.bergmangallery.co.ck | +682 55012
the Beachcomber. The Print Room offers

ESCAPE COOK ISLANDS


2019 Calendar
Cook Island
s Calendar
2019 The Escape Magazine 2019 Calendar
features the very best of Cook Islands images
captured by our photographers during the
past year. Each calendar is individually shrink-
wrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope
for ease of mailing. From most stores and
Islands
re, Cook
of Cultu
Ministry

August souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki.


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ESCAPE • 47
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48 • ESCAPE
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ESCAPE • 49
A Rarotongan

Art tour
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Story: Rachel Smith
painted furniture and wall hangings.

I
Sept 3 - October 6: Matt Payne’s
t is difficult not to be inspired by the Cook Islands, landscapes from the Cook Islands
whether you are a visitor or have lived here for Further art work can be found in the
generations. Creativity has always been an important part Beachcomber Pearl Market, and at The Print
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Islands takes on many forms with talented Cook Islands Opposite the market on the main road in
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The Little Red Gallery.
Gallery,” says Ben Bergman, Director. “I
Avarua realised the conceptual depth of modern Purchased by Lee and Boaz Raela in 2015
Any art tour should start with the Pacific art works – that we could do shows when they returned with their family to live
Beachcomber in Taputapuatea, on the like those in Auckland.” in the Cook Islands, the gallery is led by Lee,
eastern side of Avarua. The Bergman family
who is an artist herself.
purchased the Beachcomber complex back With a focus on Cook Islands and New
in 2001, exhibiting work by Cook Islands Zealand artists, Bergman Gallery represents “We wanted to have more local art - and
artists at the Beachcomber Art Gallery Reuben Paterson, Andy Leleisi'uao, Tungane they’re all really quite different,” says Lee,
and constructing a purpose built exhibition Broadbent, Sylvia Marsters and Benjamin with a mix of Cook Islands and Pacific art
space in 2009. Work, as well as continuing to show other available.
Pacific artists in its 4-5 shows per year.
“Bergman Gallery came about as an end The gallery also takes part in international Lee has filled the gallery with a range of
result of 15 years of the Beachcomber Art exhibitions, earlier this year attending the art work by Cook Islands artists – her own
Auckland Art Fair paintings and prints, as well as prints by
2018 with Andy Joan Gragg, Tim Buchanan, Fe’ena Syme-
Leleisi'uao and Buchanan, David Teata, Miriama Arnold,
Sylvia Marsters Spike Tuara and, New Zealand based artist,
and hosting Valerie Beale.
PŪTAHI ONO Contact: Facebook –
KUKI AIRANI in thelittleredgalleryrarotonga | +682 74981
Rarotonga.

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at Bergman It’s not all tattoos at KareHa Pacific Ink -
Gallery for 2018 Polynesian Art Studio. Inside you will find
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26: Kay George by Shane Andrew.
with a collection of Contact: Facebook – Pacific Ink Tattoos
textiles including +682 56636

50 • ESCAPE
Muri
TE ARA – the Cook Islands Museum of
Cultural Enterprise mixes history and art
with supporting cultural enterprise. Opening
early last year, Te Ara’s gallery space and in 2002 and can be found on most days
gift shop presents work by a wide selection painting out the back of her gallery. Tribal
of Cook Islands artists. designs in both black and white, and colour,
are painted freehand and are a feature of
“Everything is made locally at Te Ara,” says Maria’s work, as well as island scenes and
co-founder Stan Wolfgramm. bright botanicals.

Pacific Weave features art and crafts This begins with photography by Carly The gallery also includes jewellery, pareus,
from around the Pacific including selected Ave, stunning original paintings by Mahiriki cushion covers, soap and bags on behalf of
work by Cook Islands artists. Here you can Tangaroa and a selection of Ani Dun’s work, other artists.
find paintings by Tim Buchanan, Loretta as well as prints and wall hangings from Contact: Facebook – Maria File Art Gallery
Reynolds, Remiah Mani and Kay George, on Maria File and wood block prints by David Rarotonga | +682 53896
a mix of mediums from glass and wood to Teata.
canvas and fabric. Punanga Nui Market, open on a Saturday
Contact: Facebook – Pacific Weave morning, is another great spot to check
www.islandperfumes.com/pacificweave out local creativity. Many of the artists
+682 27575 whose work is included in galleries across
Rarotonga, will also show their work at
Punanga Nui.
Arorangi
Look out for the bright art gallery sign
pointing inland at Akaoa No2 Road in the
village of Akaoa in Arorangi. Known around
the island simply as Ani’s Gallery, Ani
The Little Red Gallery
Exham-Dun’s paintings all feature her take
Local & Pacif ic
For something a little different Uruā

ART
on island designs. Ani describes her work as Collection’s fabric work utilises a Japanese
drawing on a tapestry of tattooing, weaving printing technique, and there is pottery and
of mats and basketware, rock drawings, printed pareu from The Creative Centre and
carvings made of wood and stone, and woven rito pieces by Tarani Crafts & Pearls.
tivaivai. Contact: Facebook – TE ARA - Cook Islands
Museum of Cultural Enterprise
Acrylic on ply, metal, hardwood or canvas, www.tearacimce.com | +682 27641 Originals | Prints | Gifts
her paintings come in a wide range of
sizes including wooden postcards that
Phone: (682) 74981
Maria’s Art Gallery, located just behind
www.thelittleredgalleryrarotonga.com
are stamped and ready to go, as well as Ariki Adventures, is home to the art work of
hanging icons and fabric wall hangings. Facebook: The Little Red Gallery
Maria File. Creativity, in particular painting,
Contact: Ani79777@gmail.com comes naturally to Maria who was first
MARKET
drawn to painting from watching her
G A N UI
mother-in-law. N AN
E PU
S IT
“I paint what I feel and what I see,” says PO
P

Maria, whose work includes original


O
D

paintings on wood and canvas as well as a


TE
CA

wide selection of prints and cards. “It just


LO

comes – it just pours out.”

With a background in painting and teaching


art, Maria returned to the Cook Islands

ESCAPE • 51
Maste r
ist
A

A rt Story: Glenda Tuaine

A
s I stand and look at the two Mike as breathing is to keeping alive. He is a She would tell me go in the corner on the
Tavioni paintings titled ‘Pig Twilight Painter, Sculptor, Master Carver, Screen and floor with newsprint and pastels. So the
Bath’ and ‘Pig Twilight Wash’ I know Block printer, Designer, Canoe Maker, Poet, punishment was really great! I would go
I am up for a great story on how these art Writer, Teacher, Storyteller and a Critic of and draw all kinds of things without her
works have come to be. Sure enough Mike Life and even after that list I am sure I have knowing that I was loving it. She pushed
Tavioni does not disappoint. In that deep probably missed out some other titles that me away from arithmetic and punished
rumbling voice he tells me, “So I just put the could aptly be bestowed on him. me with this!” he laughs and tells me how
paint in the pig pen and chased the pigs he would commit the crime as often as he
around. I thought they would naturally walk An interview with Mike is a snapshot into could so he would be sent to the corner to
all over them but you had to nudge them the life of a resourceful creative mind. I draw.
a bit. In the end one of them pooed on one ask him when creativity started for him. “I
of the canvas’s so I scraped some off that remember in the early days we had a cook Growing up Mike naturally pursues art
one.” He laughs and then tells me that was house, poorly constructed; and when I was and as a teenager he is carving, drawing
the painting out of the trio that sold in the about five or six I became fascinated with and decides to branch into clothing design
gallery in Ponsonby, Auckland. We both fire. I used to hold the burning stick from enlisting his sisters sewing talents to create
agree that it probably sold because they the fire and do all sorts of things from his very first shirt that he patterned with
knew it had poo on it. that. I would sneak round the back and printers ink and a nib. As he tells some of
draw Cowboys and Indians because the the stories of his life he provides insight into
Mike Tavioni is a Cook Islands Master of movies at the time were all about Indians what was influencing the minds of youth
Art, a rebel of sorts with a connection to and Cowboys. I would draw it with the stick, in 1960’s Rarotonga. America definitely
artistic expression that is as vital to him charcoal you know, sometimes still burning” holding the interest of a young Mike who
he reminisces. “From a young kid as soon at one stage became fascinated with
you can hold a knife you are supposed to the American eagle, carving pearl shell
go and cut the coconuts for the pigs so pendants of the symbol for himself and his
when you have done that your parents friends using the one file that he owned.
don’t see you. I would go out carving trees But it is with words that Mike finds an inner
as well as drawing! I would try to carve emotional expression and release. “At
names of whatever I imagined on the trees.” first I started playing with poetry but my
mother loved singing Tahitian songs and
If you haven’t gathered by now Mike in the songs there is poetry so I grew up
naturally likes to push boundaries and with her singing these songs”. As a high
as we delve further into this interview his school student Mike secures a scholarship
cleverness to understand and seize an and finds himself at a school in Kaikohe,
opportunity out of what others may find a Northland, New Zealand. "I actually began
crisis or problem, is a character trait Mike to write poems there because I was so
has had since he was a young boy. “At homesick.”
school I would draw on my books and in
Grade 4 and 5 I had a very good teacher At 16 Mike is influenced by the 18th Century
who punished me all the time for drawing. English Romantic Poet William Wordsworth.

52 • ESCAPE
He is quick to inform me English is his worst
subject as Mike is a fluent Maori speaker
and writes his poetry in the language he
is fluent in, which even when translated
to English captures poetic eloquence that
really does have echoes of Wordsworth
like qualities. Recently Mike completed
his Masters in Art and Design from AUT;
no mean feat for a man who sees English
as his worst subject. His former Professor
asked him to create a poem or proverb for
the University. He created one which he
translates from Maori for me:

career many deem as acceptable. You see


Now it is only silence Muteki ua i teia nei when we return to the life story of this artist
You turn around Uri mai koe I learn that Mike as a young school leaver
wrote to his father to advise him he was
I am still standing here Te tu uatu nei au i konei
going to be an artist.
Your Chord of union to the Divine To Tāura Atua
Awaiting patiently E tatari marie uatu nei Mike explains the reaction. “My father said
For your return I toou okianga mai don’t come back to my home I disown
you. How can you step on my head? What
about your family? How are you going to
Mike explains this is aimed at Cook Mike Tavioni creates art to develop feed yourself son?” Mike explains his father
Islanders who have left not to return. He is conversations, ideas and directions stipulated he could try and study law,
concerned at the increasing depopulation and with his multiple artistic abilities he be a teacher but he had to be somebody
issues that the Cook Islands outer islands facilitates conversation on key topics worthwhile or he could study agriculture.
face. Mike has observed this first hand and affecting the Cooks. But in order to be an Mike not wanting to dishonour his family
from the period 1996 to 2010 looked at the artist you have to be brave, it is not the applied to take agriculture which meant
quarterly population statistics to note the
trends. Mike is a keen observer of what
impacts our country and our communities,
he observes and provides what he terms
‘critic’ on our societal trends and directions.
He is not afraid to voice his views be that
through art or through direct conversation.
“We were losing an average of over 700
people per year from 1996 for over 10
years, who did not come back including
births and deaths in that total. Now it is
2018 and in 1996 there were 2,000 people
in Atiu now there is what? 300? Maybe it is
less. It is the same with all the islands over
here. The illusion is the island, Rarotonga
is over populated but on average 2,000
tourists are here every day as well as 2
to 3,000 foreign workers. The illusion is
Rarotonga probably only has about 7,000
people here including foreign workers.”

ESCAPE • 53
he returned to Rarotonga and worked in time the Mitiaro community were making vision with me you can see he is determined
the Agriculture department for one year. canoes and he was intrigued how they were to make sure this project comes to life.
However during that time Mike applied to made. For every Outer Islands he went to
go to join the New Zealand army and was he kept observing the carving and canoe I too believe that a centre such as this is
turned down a few days before the recruits making skills. incredibly important to the Cook Islands
were about to depart. This was because future development of a creative industry.
of his bond to the New Zealand Island Finally after 20 years Mike tells his father Mike is committed to providing a space
Territories Department and the requirement he is leaving Agriculture to be an Artist where traditional and contemporary
that he had to go to study at Massey and although there were tears from his artisans can combine talents. Where
University. father Mike embarks on his true calling. He discussion and interests can merge to form
teaches himself to screen and block print, artistic products and the stories of our
Mike reflects “Good thing I didn’t go my selling Pareus in Rarotonga and exporting people can be recorded, listened too, acted
best friend died. A lot of people I was with to Samoa and Tahiti. In 1999 he is invited to out or even just imagined. Mike Tavioni is
before they left have all died from Agent Hawaii to the Canoe festival and attends a Cook Islands Master Artist well worth
Orange. Those that didn’t go were lucky. for a decade building canoes every year knowing more about so if you are travelling
It was a blessing not being accepted, we alongside his wife and equally talented on the Back Rd of Atupa, Avatiu, keep an
were all watching too many war movies all Carver Awhitia. Mike proudly advises me eye out for Mike Tavioni’s studio and work in
thinking we were warriors, anyway I ended that the first year he attended he was not progress Art Centre then stop and hopefully
up working for Government.” sure what to expect. “They knew me from you will be lucky enough to spend some
someone who recommended me. I finished time with Mike.
At Massey Mike wrote more poems the canoe in four days the others didn’t
because he was lonely. “That place was finish theirs we only had a week! I didn’t For more information on Mike Tavioni visit
too cold and I couldn’t take it so I wrote really have any tools the first year. It was www.miketavioni.wordpress.com
more poems. One I titled ‘Windy Palm’ me and Hector Busby from NZ and some www.facebook.com/michael.tavioni
meaning Palmerston North.” On returning Tahitians and Hawaiians that was all. We or email – miketavioni@gmail.com
to Rarotonga he works for the Agriculture were given a tree each to make canoes.
Department for 20 years and spends I had some friends that looked after me.
large amounts of time in the outer islands I said I want some metal to make adze.
developing Coconut nurseries, Copra I had a friend who worked in sugar cane
Dryers and planting new crops. It is during fields and he had some broken plates from
this time that Mike learns more as a carver tractors that they used for slashing the
and begins his journey with Canoe building. sugar cane. I drew what I needed and he cut
it out for me”
“I was sent to Mitiaro to build 6 Copra
dryers and invent some things like that to It is this resourcefulness that surrounds
dry bananas and assist them with planting. Mike Tavioni and leads him to his latest
In Mitiaro and all our islands people do project which is one of his biggest. He is
community work. Everything in Polynesia is creating an Arts centre, a school where
communal and cooperative. So the women, traditional arts and skills can be learnt
kids and the people take the coconut, and combined with contemporary arts.
plant it and sing. It was like a festival we Mike being a resourceful man is funding
planted about 10,000 Coconuts back then. and building this off his own back which
We designed Copra dryers using 24 gallon is testament to his independent spirit and
drums and for the first time they managed drive. The vision is to have mainly Cook
to increase their copra production.” Mike Island artists work exhibited in the gallery
enjoys telling me how he used to send which he hopes will feature largely painted
his assistant to do the monotonous work works. Behind the gallery is where the Arts
while he would sit with his grand uncle and school will be located. This will be a school
watch him carving. “I would watch him that teaches traditional arts, language and
carve kumete, one takes a few weeks to cultural practices. Mike believes strongly
finish and when he had enough he would that a good traditional base will provide the
sit down and sleep so I had to go back to foundations for new artists to emerge and
work.” He laughs and says that during that as he discusses the Art centre concept and

54 • ESCAPE
ISLAND STYLE JEWELLERY AND GIFTWARE
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ESCAPE • 55
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The new premises reflect a wonderfully

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Moving People and Money for the better with the renovations and have taken all the
inconvenience in their stride and at times
in the Cook Islands for 20 years with much humour.

J
etsave Cook Islands Limited - It now comprises not just the travel side We are still the same people, offering the
Jetsave Travel, first opened its of the business but also a foreign cash same services, in the same location and
doors in December 1998. At the time exchange service and a money transfer our services still include:
the Managing Director was Melynnda service via Fexco Western Union.
Morrissette, who hailed from the USA. She 1. The issuance of overseas airline tickets
had lived in the Cook Islands for over ten Prior to the era of electronic ticketing, the for travel anywhere in the world
years at that stage. travel industry in those days was very 2. Domestic airline tickets to all the
complicated, particularly with issuing accessible outer islands
Melynnda who was a very experienced tickets. Everything was done by hand, 3. Hotel accommodation, both inbound
travel agent, grew the business for the first mostly in triplicate. Cumbersome as it and outbound
10 years. Sadly she passed away in 2008. seemed at times, it certainly gave an 4. Overseas and Outer island packages
Her position was then filled by the current interesting background to the industry. 5. Foreign Money Exchange - best rates
General Manager, Julie Bateman. Julie had Today a complicated itinerary can be done and minimal fees
worked for Melynnda and Jetsave for a in a few minutes as opposed to what could 6. Domestic money transfers between
number of years as Melynnda’s personal be hours spent on the phone coordinating islands
assistant and also as assistant manager. flights, hotels and other associated 7. Business payments to anywhere in the
services. world
After a few years in business and seeing 8. Tours and activities for our visitors
how successful the business was operating As time marched on, we employed 9. Cruises
Jetsave travel introduced a financial services additional staff to cope with the growth of 10. An afterhours emergency number to
division which included becoming a network the business. We then started to feel more provide 24/7 assistance in our travel
agent for Western Union Money Transfers. than a little "crowded" in our premises - division
Today Jetsave Cook Islands Limited is a one originally designed for 4 staff - the office
stop shop for all travel needs. was now accommodating 9 staff. Crammed
to say the least! Jetsave is located downtown Avarua just a
few doors up from Bank South Pacific.
A decision was made in 2017 to upgrade You can phone us on (+682) 27707 or
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58 • ESCAPE
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COOK ISLANDS MĀORI:
Cook Islands Māori was first written down in
the 1830’s when missionaries codified it into
the bible. Before then, it was only an oral

LANGUAGE AND PROVERBS


language and still oratory and storytelling
remain important. Like the bible, Cook
Islands Māori is rich with proverbs.
Story: Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky
One of the best ways to understand a
language is through its proverbs. Proverbs

C
get at the hidden meanings of the language
ook Islands Māori delights with a descending or landed bird) to learn the and teach us about ourselves. They contain
poetry, metaphor, nature, and language. metaphors, morals, and wisdom. Kia
hidden layers of meaning. One word Manūia! Good luck and cheers!
has many different meanings and layers of The three official languages of the Cook
meaning depending on the culture, context, Islands are: Cook Islands Māori, Pukapukan, Meitaki Ma‘ata to Rutera Taripo, Te Reo
and intonation. and English. The islands of Manihiki, Māori Coordinator at the Ministry of
Rakahanga, Penrhyn, Atiu, Mitiaro, Mauke, Culture, and Dr. Sally Ake Nicholas for their
People appreciate you trying out the basics Aitutaki, and Mangaia each have their own assistance.
while in the islands. Greet people with Kia dialect distinct from Rarotonga. Pukapuka
Orana, which serves as hello and literally has an entirely unique language as does
Selected Cook Islands
means may you live long and healthy. Palmerston. Palmerston speaks their
You can say meitaki for thank you, which own unique archaic form of Midlands 19th
Maori Proverbs
means all good as in everyone’s feeling Century English mixed with ship language
‘Auraka e kai mata i te vī
good. Most locals appreciate the effort of and Cook Islands Māori. Palmerston
Don’t eat mangoes while they are green.
visitors or manu‘iri (literally translated as residents still say “ahoy” for “hello.”
Don’t do anything in haste. Be patient.

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60 • ESCAPE Spa
Pa’s
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Eia’a e ‘akatangi vave i te pū, ‘e kāre i
māoa ake te varāoa.
Don't blow the horn till the bread is baked.
Don't boast about something until it is
actually done.

‘E tumurangi matangi kāre ra i ua.


A storm cloud but no rain.
Said of a person who says that they will
give, but then forgets about it.

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Karikao pao ngatā.
A hard to crack seashell.
Said of a person that is very stubborn. guide!
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topa ki roto. garden. Join our cross-island trek
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The person who digs a pit will fall into it. herbal walk.
If a person finds fault for another, that Learn about local medicine plants
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‘Ākara kā veu te punā vai. safety with one of our professional
Te ma’ata ‘i ta’au ka ‘ōronga ko te ma’ata
Be careful or the clear pool might become experienced guides.
rāi ia i ta’au ka rauka.
The more you give the more you receive.
dirty. Tours operate Mon – Sat
Wealth is measured not by how much you
Be careful that your cleverness does not P. 21079 (bookings essential)
turn into foolishness.
have, but by how much you give. Give freely
and you shall receive. Do not be selfish.
Kāre ‘a mangō e tuku i tāna kai e mate
‘uātu.
‘A’aere mārie ‘e aku pōtiki kia kite koe ‘i
The shark does not give up its food.
ngā ‘inapōtea.
Said of a person who shows great tenacity.
Go quietly my sons, so that you see many
moonlights.
Tā te tangata e rūrū ra, tana rāi ia e
Go slowly, quietly, and carefully so that you
kokoti.
may live long. Do not live in haste.
What a person sows, they will reap.
If a person does bad things, they will reap
O’ore ‘a meika para ‘ua.
bad things. If they do good things, they will
Skin it like a banana.
reap good things.
It can be done easily and is easily
overcome.’

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ESCAPE • 61
a N u i 2 0 18
ev
Te Ma THE PATH OF THE MOON
Story: Amelia Rachel Hokule‘a Borofsky research their own island communities for inspiration. The Head
Photos: © Ministry of Culture of the Ministry, along with a committee, carefully researches and
chooses a theme that celebrates the strengths of Cook Islands

B
culture. The themes become a repository of Cook Islands culture.
are feet clatter back stage. Girls
adjust their ‘Au (hibiscus bark) skirts. For 2018, the theme ‘Te au Arāpō o Tōku Matakeinanga/The
Tangerine-coloured feather headdresses Traditional Calendars of My Ancestors’ promises to ignite the
imagination. The theme is about arāpō, which translates as
frame their lengthy raven hair. A sixteen- the path of the night or the moon. The traditional Polynesian
year-old passes around scintillating calendar relies on the moon rather than the sun to mark time.
Russian Red lipstick for all to share. Aunties Taripo, who helped choose the theme, says, “It will challenge
everyone to do their research. They will need to talk to the elders
with their glue guns attach last minute of the community and find out the traditional calendars of their
seashells to skirts. Boys shine their bodies island.” The process of researching the theme creates the cultural
up with coconut oil. A stagehand ushers connection and each island will have their own way of representing
this in their performances.
groups past the scarlet curtain and onto
the brightly lit stage. The night sky of the Northern Group looks different than the
night sky of the Southern Group. Taripo continues, “Each island
The stage lights up for Te Maeva Nui, the annual cultural has a different moon. The moon phase tells us when to fish and
celebration of the Cook Islands. Every August, the whole country what to fish. It tells us when to plant and what to plant. It tells
commemorates independence with parades, markets, craft fairs, when to make love if we want a son, a daughter, or twins. There
flowers, food, song, drumming, and dance. Alive and buzzing with are even particular moon phases for having a red-haired child. If
excitement, it is the time to see authentic Cook Islands culture you follow the stages of the moon, you’ll be able to accomplish
from all fifteen islands. what you need to do.” The path of the moon opens up a variety of
interpretations.
The Cook Islands gained full independence on August 4th 1965,
becoming a state in free association with New Zealand. To honour Most of the islands, particularly Rarotonga, have moved away
the occasion, the government launched a week-long ‘Constitution from a traditional calendar. Fishermen and planters still abide by
Celebration.’ In the seventies and eighties, the event took on a it, but many have forgotten. The Ministry of Cultural Development
more political tone with songs and dances composed for the sees this as an opportunity for everyone to research, talk to elders,
political party in power. In the nineties, the Ministry of Cultural and learn about their own islands through uncovering the multiple
Development set themes for the event, asking performers to meanings of the traditional calendar. “In the old days,” says Taripo,

62 • ESCAPE
“the connection with the wind, the rain, the attendance, Te Maeva Nui 2018 promises February we go into the bush with the
ocean, and the spirituality of our people a week-long show-stopping whirlwind of kids, aunties, and all the dancers. We find
guided life. This theme takes us back to cultural celebration. the ‘Au tree and cut the young branches.
the skills and spirituality of our ancestors, We put them on the back of the truck and
from fishing to planting, to genealogy, Robert Ioaba, Events Coordinator for the go back to the hall to strip the bark. Then
mythology, and traveling on the vakas, Ministry of Cultural Development, says we put the bark into rolls and let it sit in
canoes.” Seventeen-year-old dancer for “The most exciting thing about this year’s the seawater for two weeks. After that
Vaka Takitumu, Chémanya Mackenzie- Te Maeva Nui is the reuniting with our we have to clean all the gunk off, dry it
Hoff, says, “I am so excited about this people from the outer islands. It has been out in the sun, dye them, and then weave
year’s theme! With the moon we have a lot two years since they came and they can’t it all into a skirt.” The ‘Au skirt forms the
to showcase.” wait.” Fifty to sixty people from each island basis of all the costumes. The three sisters
will come to represent their unique style share a sense of pride in making their own
Preparations for the August festival start of drumming, dancing, and singing about costumes from bark to stage.
as early as November. Committees meet. their traditional ancestral calendar.
Everyone discusses and debates the In the last few weeks before Te Maeva Nui,
theme. The team chooses the composers, It takes looking behind the scenes to truly many stay up all night. “Usually the week
choreographers, and lead costume appreciate the year-long labour that is Te leading up to the celebration we don’t
designers. Pukapuka/Nassau, Manihiki/ Maeva Nui. Sisters Lexi Mackenzie-Hoff, sleep at all,” laughs Czaria. A designated
Rakahanga, Tongareva, Palmerston, Czaria Mackenzie-Hoff, and Chémanya mama cooks the meals every night and
Mitiaro, Atiu, Mauke, Mangaia, and Aitutaki Mackenzie-Hoff dance for Vaka Takitumu. makes sure the performers never go
will each send a team to Rarotonga to They talked about all the hard work it hungry. Drummers, dancers, children,
compete for 2018. Rarotonga has at least takes to bring this show to the stage. committees, and families spread out on
four teams competing: Oire Nikao, Vaka the mattresses on the floor.
Puaikura, Vaka Takitumu, and Tupapa Lexi explains the lengthy process of
Maraerenga. With all the outer islands in making the costumes: “First around

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prized. “I started as a kid banging sticks on
the Anchor Powdered Milk Tins. Drumming
is in our blood,” says Ioaba. The deep,
soulful sounds of the drumming echoes
inside the National Auditorium and all the
way up to the moon.

Ioaba highlights the unique style of


drumming from each island. “Each island
Leading up to Te Maeva Nui, the air feels “Manihiki has the best uto, sprouted has its own unique style and beats,” he
electric with the stress of perfection. “I like pancakes,” says Czaria who looks forward says, “I can hear the sound and right away
all the stress,” says Czaria. “We want to to their stall every year. If you’re lucky, I know which island the team came from.
beat the other groups,” explains Chè, “but you’ll find a canary yellow pupu shell In the Northern Group, the drum portrays
mostly we want to beat our performance necklace at the Mangaia stall. Browne a story. Pukapuka’s drumming is the
from the year before.” When it comes time says, “it's a great time for the outer islands most unique. It is the most sophisticated
for the dress rehearsal at the National to showcase their baskets, hats, mats, drumming. Most of the drumming you hear
Auditorium, the groups only walk through brooms, earrings, bracelets, ei’s, seafood, is a complete beat whereas Pukapukan
their routines to hide their secret show- and more.” You’ll find the diversity and drumming is only half the beat. I tell each
stoppers. “Its all very secretive leading up quality of the crafts higher, and the prices island stay with your style.” The message
to the competition,” says Lexi. Te Maeva Nui lower because you’re buying directly from for each island to stick with its own style
is a celebration, and also a competition. the sellers. Island Trade Days provides a is a common message from the Ministry of
rich array of traditional foods, crafts, and Cultural Development. Te Maeva Nui helps
Finally, the day comes. Friday, July souvenirs. preserve the rich diversity of each island’s
27th opens with an official ceremony unique cultural performance.
with dignitaries and the float parade After shopping, evenings find everyone at
down Avarua main road. Saturday July the 2,000-seat National Auditorium for The very last day of Te Maeva Nui
28th highlights the national costume the cultural performances. Performers is Monday August 6th with the 53rd
competition, where the costume designers compete in at least four different Constitution Celebrations ceremony, prize
compete with original designs in the wet- categories. The electrifying Ura Pau, drum giving ceremony and closing speeches. The
green and dry categories. Events Officer dance, brings the house down with its Prime Minister gives a speech reflecting
Janette Browne says, “Team leaders fast beats. The Kapa Rima, action song, upon the year for the country. The
have wanted to see the costume area has a slower beat with hand movements judges announce the winners. Everyone
compensated better.” The prize money for that tell a story. In the Pe‘e, chant, a male returns back to their home islands filled
the best costumes has increased creating chants a well-known legend or a new with stories and dreams for next year’s
more incentive and wilder costumes. story based on the theme and everyone celebrations.
Judges walk backstage to inspect the engages in a theatrical performance. The
costumes carefully. Browne says, “Judges Ute, a traditional singing four-beat song, The trio of sister dancers Czaria, Lexi, and
have to come back stage and see for brings older singers to the stage. Sunday Chè urges everyone to come. “It is literally
themselves. They either find pieces falling August 5th closes out the performances a one of a kind event,” says Czaria who
off where the glue gun didn’t work, or with the Imene Tuki, traditional hymns now dances for a Tahitian troupe in Paris.
exquisite craftsmanship.” Chémanya sung in high pitched voices by the women, Lexi chimes in, “I can’t believe a lot of
Mackenzie-Hoff says, “I love it when the backed by low base notes from the men. visitors don't even know about it. I would
judges come backstage and they just say Singers often get up and dance impromptu come to Rarotonga just for Te Maeva Nui.”
‘wow.’” with huge smiles, swaying hips, and hands “This is really the only time you can see the
outstretched to the heavens. The Imene whole variety of Cook Islands drumming
The festivities really get underway from Tuki heard at Te Maeva Nui far surpasses and dancing,” says Chè. When asked if
Monday July 30th, through Saturday anything you will hear at church on the dancing sisters had any last words
August 4th, when Constitution Park Sundays. to share, Czaria yells from another room,
comes alive with Island Trade Days. Every “You’ve got to go! Take your kids! Te Maeva
morning, stalls fill with arts, crafts, and Ioaba loves the drumming the best. The Nui 2018 is a must!” Follow the path of
food unique to each island. Penrhyn drumming competition, Tangi Ka’ara, takes the moon and you’ll find yourself at the
brings their stunning ghost white rito hats. place on August 4th. Like the dancers, National Auditorium of Rarotonga from
Pukapuka sells their long kikau brooms. the drummers make their own drums of Sunday 29th July to Monday 6th August
Manihiki showcases their best pearls. different wood with mahogany the most 2018 celebrating Cook Islands culture.

64 • ESCAPE
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ESCAPE • 65
FRESH FRUIT
tried various methods including using
butterflies to curb their growth. Choose the
passion fruit that is yellow or purple (not

ON RAROTONGA green). It can be eaten wrinkled or straight


from the vine.

Story: Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky


Vī/Mango

N
SEASON: Summer (November-February)
othing says tropical holiday like
Introduced from South Asia
waking up to a breakfast of ripe
Running down your fingers and
paw-paw squeezed with fresh
staining your face, the succulent
lime juice and grated coconut. Driving
fruit never disappoints. Mangoes
around the islands you’ll see the bounty
have over one thousand different
of tropical fruits. Fallen roadside fruit is up red varieties and the most common
for grabs but ask before picking the fruit flesh. variety in the Cook Islands is the
from someone’s tree. Locals will often share Simply Alphonso. Generally, mangoes are
when politely asked. cut in half, ready to devour when the peel turns
scoop out the seeds orange-yellow or reddish. The desirability
The best place to find local fresh fruit is at and reserve to make a peppery dressing, of the mango means that they don’t come
the Punanga Nui Market on a Saturday. drizzle with lime and enjoy. cheap, even in summer.
During the week, roadside stalls also offer
Climate change has impacted the growth
up a variety of fruits from local backyards
and small scale farms. Arorangi and
Meika/Bananas rate of mangoes. A recent climate change
SEASON: Year-Round report on the increasing temperatures in
Titikaveka, the agricultural hubs of the
Introduced from Australasia the Cook Islands entitled itself, “Mangoes
island, have the highest number of roadside
The Cook Islands has 68 varieties of in July.” Last year, mangoes appeared in
stalls. Wigmore’s Superstore in Vaimaanga
bananas. You’ll find the major varieties year July—a truly freak occurrence. For a few
also stocks a good variety of seasonal local
round. Bananas in Rarotonga taste sweeter years the mangoes did not fruit at all. It is
fruit at reasonable prices.
than those found in New Zealand, which said that a large amount of mangoes in
usually come from Ecuador. The small lady a bunch signals an upcoming cyclone. In
Summer (December-March) delivers the
finger bananas taste sweet and starchy recent years, the mango season has an
greatest variety of fruit, but paw-paw and
while the larger green variety taste sweet element of unpredictability.
banana fruit year round. Climate change
and watery. In the Cook Islands, bananas
has disrupted some of the fruiting with
mangoes surprisingly appearing a few
are used in a variety of dishes particularly Dragon Fruit/Pitaya
the popular banana poke, a rich dessert SEASON: Summer (November-February)
years ago in July. For the greatest variety
made by combining banana, starch, sugar, Introduced from Mexico
of tropical fruit, visit the Cook Islands in
and coconut cream and baking it in the Also known as apple cactus or prickly pear,
the summer months. Here is your guide to
oven into a kind of pudding. Punanga Nui the dragon fruit comes from a cactus plant.
Rarotonga’s favourite fruits including their
Market on Saturdays sells banana poke The Cook Islands has three kinds: red skin
local name, season, health benefits, and
in small tubs as well as different banana with red flesh, yellow skin with white flesh,
how to eat them. Dig in and enjoy!
varieties.

Nītā/Paw-Paw/Papaya
SEASON: Year Round
Pārapōtini /Passion Fruit
SEASON: Summer (November-February)
Introduced from Mexico
Introduced from South America
The sweet soft fruit of the paw-paw has
A curling high-climbing vine, Rarotonga
a host of claimed health benefits. Rich in
boasts two main varieties of passion fruit.
antioxidants, carotenes, flavonoids, vitamin
The yellow variety is large and tangy while
C, vitamin B, fibre, and magnesium. Paw-
the purple variety is small and sweet. Both
paw especially aids in digestion because of
rich in Vitamin C. The red
the presence of papain, a digestive enzyme.
variety is an invasive
The Cook Islands has two main varieties.
species in the islands
The larger variety is yellow with orange
and the Department
flesh and the smaller variety is orange with
of Agriculture has

66 • ESCAPE
AVAILABLE AT

and red skin with white flesh. It grows well orange star fruit not yet browning for
in sandy soil and is especially prevalent on the sweetest flavour. For a tarter flavour,
the island of Mangaia. choose a yellow-green star fruit. In the high PHARMACY
Dragon fruit is rich in antioxidants, vitamin of summer, trees will droop with the heavy
C, carotene, calcium, and several B vitamins. laden fruit and you may find this juicy treat
Billed as a “super food,” some claim it on the ground.
strengthens the immune system enabling

Inspired by
bruises and wounds to heal faster. Kuru Papa‘ā/Jackfruit
Dragon fruit is easy to find at the market SEASON: Summer (November-February)
with its hot pink jacket and pluming flame. Introduced from India
Cutting open a red dragon fruit the brilliant
magenta flesh awes. To get at the fruit,
The jackfruit is a large green oblong fruit.
Composed of hundreds to thousands of traditional
Cook Islands
peel back the hot pink or pineapple yellow individual flowers it is the fleshy petals
leathery jacket. The taste is mildly sweet that are eaten. One jack fruit can weigh as

medicine
and floral, a mixture of rosebuds and kiwi much as 35 kg! To eat the jackfruit, cut it
fruit with a crunchy texture. open and eat the individual fruits or petals
in sections. It has a combination flavour
Kātara‘apa/Sour sop between apple, pineapple, mango, and
SEASON: Summer (November-February) banana. A good source of dietary fibre, it is
Introduced from South America also rich in vitamin C.
At the market, you may come across a
green spiky fruit four times bigger then a Tuāva/Guava
mango. SEASON: Summer (November-February)
Peel back the green spiky skin and eat the Introduced from Mexico
modules of white sweet-sour flesh spitting Renown for their health benefits, guavas
out the smooth black seeds. You’ll be are the original superfood. Their yellow-
delighted by an acidic creamy pineapple green skin opens to a flamingo pink flesh.
banana flavour. This is kātara‘apa also You can eat the whole guava skin and
known as sour sop. Rich in vitamin C, it has seeds the way you would eat an apple.
controversial claims over its role in treating The skin contains the most vitamin C with
cancer. While not yet medically proven, a guava having four times more vitamin C
Māori medicine believes in boiling the than an orange. Filled with antioxidants,
leaves and drinking the tea to aid in cancer folic acid, magnesium, trace copper, dietary
treatment. fibre, potassium and with a low glycemic
index, guavas have a lot of health benefits.
Raparapa/Starfruit In Chinese medicine, guavas have been
Season: Summer (November-April) used to treat diabetes for centuries.
Introduced from Southeast Asia
The star fruit has five distinctive ridges I‘i/Polynesian Chestnut
running down its oval-shaped body. When SEASON: Fall (February-April)
cut in cross section it resembles a star. Rich Imported from Fiji/Melanesia
in vitamin C, the texture resembles that The local chestnuts of the Cook Islands are
of a grape. The waxy translucent yellow a delicacy. The Polynesian chestnut differs
skin is eaten with the small seeds easily from the European chestnut and is the
eaten or spat out. Choose the yellow- seed of a fruit. The smooth orange-brown
skin covers a fibrous shell, which holds an
inedible pulpy fruit and within it the kernel.
The Polynesian chestnut kidney-shaped
seed is toxic raw. When boiled for hours it
turns into an edible creamy, nutty delicacy.
Sold in ziplock bags you can pick them up
at roadside stands.
AVARUA
SHOPPING
CENTRE
ESCAPE • 67
P. (682) 29292
TE IPUKAREA SOCIETY
- CARETAKERS OF THE COOKS
Story: Rachel Smith Photos: Te Ipukarea Society

U
nder the lid is a wriggling mass of compost and worm wee for gardens. “It’s different every day,” says Alanna, who
worms, millipedes and cockroaches The worm farms are typical of the projects alongside Liam joined the TIS team at the
– exactly what you would expect that TIS undertake. A non-government beginning of 2015.
from a well maintained worm farm. Alanna environmental organisation, they work
Smith, Project Officer at Te Ipukarea Society to recognise and support the natural TIS relies on funding from a range of
(TIS), digs around with a spoon and pulls out environment of the Cook Islands – the sources, including BirdLife International with
some worms. These are not any old worms ocean, the land, the mountains and the whom TIS is a recognised partner, and the
but a specific type of compost worm known lagoon, and the many varieties of flora and Arcadia Foundation. BirdLife International
as ‘red wrigglers’ which can be found fauna whose home is spread across the 15 has an obvious focus on conservation
around muddy pig pens. islands. of bird life, and supports many of the
biodiversity projects in the Cook Islands.
Alanna and fellow Project Officer, Liam Kelvin Passfield, Technical Director, has
Kokaua, have set up similar worm farms been a member of TIS since it began This work takes TIS from one end of
at schools across the Cook Islands over back in 1996, initiated as a members the country to the other - from rugged
the past year. Funded by the Global based volunteer organisation by a group mountains to remote atolls and everywhere
Environment Fund Small Grants Programme of concerned citizens. Managed by a in between. Last year Liam visited Mangaia,
(GEF SGP), worm farms were purchased for voluntary committee it has only been for a project on the Tanga’eo, Mangaian
each school and education provided on how in recent times that TIS has been able Kingfisher, which is endemic to the island of
to care for their worms as well as benefits to attract sufficient funds to be able to Mangaia.
such as using organic waste to produce pay four employees, including part-time
Finance Manager Mary McDonald. “I talked with the community about the
current status of the bird and its habitat,”
The small team has a big job to do, says Liam. “We want to ensure the next
working across the Cook Islands to share generation of Mangaians are proud of their
information and create public awareness, bird.”
collaborating with other organisations
both locally and globally, and undertaking This year has a different bird life focus
carefully selected field projects. All their with the team set to head off for three
work is based around their five key focus weeks on another GEF SGP funded project
areas: Biodiversity, Youth, Climate Change, to Suwarrow, a national park established
Eco Sustainable Development and Waste back in 1975. Here they will undertake a rat
Management. re-eradication programme, a follow up to
the first programme in 2012, and also a sea
What this means is that while one day bird survey.
they may be setting up worm farms,
the next day could be spent scrambling “Suwarrow Atoll has a regionally significant
about mountains counting birds, making seabird population,” says Liam, who will
a UNESCO funded documentary on have the challenging task of counting
traditional fishing of flying fish in Mitiaro, hundreds of moving sea birds, with
working with government departments to assistance provided from experts at BirdLife
establish the Cook Islands Marine Park now International. “I’m really looking forward to
known as Marae Moana or journeying up that.”
to the Northern Group islands to eradicate
invasive rats which predate on native birds. Aside from these donor funded projects, TIS
has an additional wish-list of areas to work

68 • ESCAPE
to ban the importation of polystyrene has been aptly named the Dame Margaret
takeaway containers in the Cook Islands. Karika Memorial Internship, the Society’s
long-term patron who sadly passed away
It is a balance between local and global in 2017.
environmental challenges – between waste
on within their five focus areas. And this is reduction issues on a small island to the far On a steamy Friday afternoon Alanna and
where Mana Tiaki comes in. reaching effects of climate change. Recent Liam are doing the rounds of a couple of
work has taken Kelvin across the Pacific to schools, checking up on how their worm
Mana Tiaki, their “protect a little paradise” Tokelau and Niue, who along with the Cook farms are going. At Imanuela Akatemia
campaign, is essentially a visitor payback Islands are part of a community based Christian School, what was once the best
scheme that allows visitors and locals adaptation climate change project funded worm farm in Rarotonga is needing a
to act as guardians or caretakers of the by Australia through the GEF SGP Global touch of TLC. Working with senior students,
Cook Islands and give a little back to Grants. Alanna and Liam empty out a backlog of
help maintain the island paradise. Mana food scraps and add in soil and some new
Tiaki donation boxes can be found across Closer to home and Chris Benson is worms. It is also an opportunity for a chat
Rarotonga in the international departure completing the very first TIS internship about saying no to plastic straws and
lounge at the airport and at cafes, bars and thanks to a generous donation from a polystyrene containers, and supporting
shops. visiting UK bird-loving couple. “It’s been biodegradable products which are now
great,” says Chris, who has worked as part available and in use around Rarotonga. The
“All funds go towards one of our five focal of the TIS team between completing Year 13 restored worm farm is wheeled back into its
areas,” says Kelvin, with the unrestricted at Tereora College and beginning his studies spot under the verandah with instructions
income allowing TIS the flexibility to at university. “We’re not limited in what we on how to keep their worms happy.
undertake work outside of specifically do here – it’s been interesting and fun.”
funded programmes. “This allows us to “It will be back to the number one worm
support the likes of some of the work “We are committed to providing a farm in the Cook Islands in no time,”
we do with schools and the Takitumu continuing internship,” says Kelvin, which says Liam. www.tiscookislands.org
Conservation Area (TCA).”

TIS provide support to the TCA, a PADI 5 STAR DIVE CENTRE


landowners conservation group known for SAFETY COMES FIRST • FREE TRY SCUBA
its work in re-establishing the population

Big Fish
of kakerori, Rarotonga Flycatcher. Such
is the success of the programme that the
population of kakerori has risen from just The Dive Centre
29 in 1989 to a current population of over

d see it live!
Take a dive an
400. TIS assist with guided tours to the area
as well as participating in bird surveys with
TCA and the Department of Conservation
New Zealand, and in the process learn new
skills such as how to safely catch, band and
release the small bird.
Another key area for TIS has been to
decrease the amount of plastic waste
generated in the Cook Islands by
suggesting alternatives to polystyrene and
single use plastic products.
Quality service, dives,
“We go around talking to vendors at training and equipment
the market,” says Kelvin, with TIS also
advertising about local options when www.thedivecentre-rarotonga.com
it comes to recycling. TIS is, of course, info@thedivecentre-rarotonga.com
very supportive of a new policy from Ph +682 20 238 Mob+682 55 238
Infrastructure Cook Islands which hopes
At the beautiful Aroa Marine Reserve look for:

ESCAPE • 69
AN INTERVIEW
WITH

Marc
Camer on
– A COLLECTOR OF
STORIES
Story: Tim Meyer The moment of surprise is a big element in your writing, multiple
Photos: Victoria Otte story lines running alongside each other and intertwining
subplots make for the ultimate page turner. You keep surprising

E
your readers with new characters and twists all the time. When
scape Magazine sat down with New York were you last surprised and by whom or what?
Times Bestselling author Marc Cameron That is the reason why I travel. When I plan a plot, it is all about
on one of his favourite beaches in Rarotonga the unknown parts and connections. These unknown spots are the
inspiration for telling a story. And I fill them with observations of
enjoying a refreshing fruit smoothie from people that I meet and see during my travels. One of my favourite
Charlie’s Café and Beach Hire. His first edition sayings I overheard recently here in Rarotonga was: “you have
of Tom Clancy – ‘Power and Empire’ has more culture than a month-old mango.” I love those things and
you do not learn about them unless you stay for a while.
sold an incredible 150,000 hard copies in the
United States during the opening week. His When did you first hear about the Cook Islands?
oeuvre has been translated into 5 languages Our 30th wedding anniversary came up and my wife asked me
to take her to a white sandy beach. You know, we live in Alaska
and he has published over 10 books, novels and everybody is trying to get away for Christmas. It is cold and
and short stories. A true celebrity of the snowy, so many Alaskans are trying to escape the winter for a
contemporary writer’s guild who is a regular while and go somewhere warm and tropical. I researched the
South Pacific, got stuck on French Polynesia and Bora Bora. But
visitor to our island paradise and we thank soon discovered that the Cook Islands was more what we were
him for taking the time to have a chat with us. looking for. We wanted to get away around Christmas time.
Through Trip Advisor we found Royale Takitumu, Booked, loved it
and never stayed anywhere else. This is our third trip in four years
Escape Magazine was lucky enough to spend to the Cook Islands.
the afternoon with the author discovering
what he draws on for inspiration when When did you decide to combine your love for the Cook Islands
and your writing?
writing, the importance of family and how he The moment we got here. You know I had started writing very
came to fall in love with the paradise that is early, short stories and also Westerns, stories about real cowboys
the Cook Islands and her people. and lots of guns (laughs). About 15 years ago I started writing
professionally and by the time we first came here I was recently
retired from my job in law enforcement, had published 5 books in

70 • ESCAPE
the Jericho Quinn Series and was ready When you don’t write, what do you enjoy kind of my golden eye. I would love to sit
for a new adventure. I write wherever I doing? down with him and compare our ‘golden
go and here I find the perfect mix to be Reading, sailing, motor cycling cross eyes’.
productive: it is safe, relaxed, quiet, not country on my BMW GS Adventure I do
too many distractions just like Hawaii about 10,000 – 12,000 miles per year. Marc has written his first Tom Clancy Novel
70 years ago must have been like. I love Driving gives me the head space to really – Power and Empire here on Rarotonga
meeting and observing people so writing in relax, let the mind travel and explore. There while staying at Royale Takitumu in
a small beach resort gives me exactly that is great inspiration in boredom for me Titikaveka.
environment because it is very transient, (laughs). It is the monotony that lets the
guests come and go all the time and I can brain travel and explore. It is a great way So, with all this time spent in the Cook
sit there at my deck and just filter through of giving yourself the space to think about Islands, will there ever be a Cook Islands
everything that is happening around me. the important things in life and work. As a inspired plot or character?
I am a collector of stories and find many family we also enjoy hunting and fishing. In fact, I love it so much that I have created
great stories here in the Cook Islands. To a certain extent we do lead a self- a Cook Islands character – Lola Teariki,
subsistent lifestyle where my wife catches half Japanese half Cook Islander for my
What do you like most about the Cook ocean salmon and my son and I go caribou mystery novel Open Carry. In the book,
Islands? hunting once a year to fill up our freezers. Lola is a deputy marshal. My editors are
The people; the people; the people. I really still holding it back a little while but it will
love the cultural surprises. You see, this If there was one writer that you could come out in April 2019.
is an old, longstanding tradition but for meet, who would it be?
me it is all new and fairly recent because Hemingway, Norman Maclean – they What do you love most about being a
we (him and his wife Victoria) have just might not have been the best people or the writer?
discovered it. So, talking to locals, hearing nicest guys but I imagine they would be The freedom. I can write from anywhere
their stories is fascinating and very very interesting to talk to. All they wanted in the world. The creativity of imagining
inspiring. Over the years we have made was to tell a good story. And they have stories. It is a childhood dream come true.
some real connections here in the Cook achieved. Ian Fleming would have been Plus, I love the many doors this line of
Islands and now it feels like coming home great to meet as well. You know he wrote work is opening. I have two editors and
to visit good old friends. in a place in the Caribbean called Golden both are well connected and rooted in the
Eye and Royale Takitumu in Rarotonga is old New York publishing business. Through
And your family, have they ever visited
the Cook Islands?
Yes! This year was special for us because
we brought the whole family down
and spent a couple of weeks with the
grandchildren at Lagoon Breeze Villas.
Our adult kids were kind of worried that
they would not find enough entertainment
for the kids here. But our grandchildren
loved it. How much more than a nice
sandy beach, some shells, some sticks
and coconuts do you need? The kids had
a great time and we have created some
beautiful memories as a family.

Where do you find the inspiration for your


ideas?
In people, definitely in people. In
conversation and in my former work
experience in law enforcement.

ESCAPE • 71
them I am meeting many fascinating
personalities. This is fun!

Is it difficult killing a character you really


like?
Sure! Robert Frost said: “No tears in the
writer, no tears in the reader.” You have
to be focused on telling a true story. I
am trying to imagine the plot – here are
the bad guys, they have their plan; want
to blow something up to destabilize a
government or the like and they are going
on a straight line towards their goal.
later. On the second round of editing I fill Tom Clancy said: “When I write about a
in the research blanks. This process is very rock in central park then you need to be
Marc makes a fist and slowly straightens
important because what I write needs to able to go and find that rock.” And I am
up his arm mimicking the bad guys making
be true. So, it has to be well researched. following that motto.
their approach. He then moves his other
For example, the next Tom Clancy book
fist across the extended right arm and
has a lot of satellites in it and there is so How long does it take to write a 582
continues:
much research needed that at some stage pages Tom Clancy novel?
I have to draw a line and make sure that I write two books a year. One Tom Clancy
And then there are the good guys, they
I do not lose the reader by overloading of about 150,000 words and one of my
come in from the side. The best is when
them with facts and science. At the end of own at roughly 110,000 words.
the lines meet multiple times, to the point
the day, I am here to entertain!
where the reader thinks: “No, everything
If you could give Jack Ryan one word of
is lost!” The bad guys have won but then
There is the famous Tom Clancy quote: advice, what would it be?
there is the twist and the good guys have
“The difference between fiction and You be you.
one more ace and solve the conflict. On
reality? Fiction has to make sense”. Can
this line, when somebody has to die it
you tell us how much is real and how Is there a character that you would like to
needs to make sense. Following the plot,
much is fiction? have imagined?
their skill set and age and if the story
Through observation I am trying to tell Not so much a single character but writing
demands it they come to the end of their
the truth of how people talk and behave. itself. I really enjoy Norman Maclean and
rope but you would never kill a person
It is the concept of verisimilitude showing he only wrote three books but the way
just to kill them or for entertainment. The
people how things are by describing how he wrote them makes me think I would
progression towards the inevitable needs
things smell, feel etc. That is one of the have liked to write this. You see a lot of
to be coherent, the character’s death
reasons I like traveling to the places that writing these days is like a bag of potato
needs to be convincing for the reader.
I write about. Some places I have a hard chips, you start and then can’t stop until
When I write those scenes, it feels like I
time traveling to like Cuba especially with its finished but it is not necessarily good
am almost hypnotized by the process of
my back ground in Law enforcement and for you. To recalibrate the brain, I enjoy
writing and it is then physically exhausting
having some Cuban bad guys in the story, reading Maclean and especially – A River
once the scene is over and the character
so I decided that it wasn’t the smartest Runs through it and other stories. It is only
has died at the end. It is tough, no kidding.
thing going to Cuba. Instead, I read many a short text but it is good.
blogs and researched on YouTube to find
How much research goes into your text?
real footage and sources that I use in
A lot. A whole lot. I read research texts
my text. Those parts are relatively close
for one hour in the morning and another
to reality but the connections between
one to two hours in the afternoon or at
places and people have to be filled with
night. When I write, I write the story first
imagination and are therefore rather
and make a note to do more research
fictitious.

72 • ESCAPE
41ST ROUND RAROTONGA ROAD RACE
GOLD SPONSORS
2018 PROGRAM FOR THE WEEK
THU, 20 SEPTEMBER: FUN RUN
Round Rarotonga Road Race 2018 foots off (starts) with dressed up 5km FUN RUN.
The venue will once again be at the yard across from Beachcomber known as Sinai Hall
down town Avarua.
The aim of the race is to get everyone to meet and mingle and have fun before the main
race. So dare to be different turn up as Superman or Robinhood. LETS HAVE FUN!
Everyone is encouraged to dress up for fun, anything goes!

FRI, 21 SEPTEMBER: RARO SAFARI TOURS


FREE DAY, your opportunity to discover more of Rarotonga. Raro Safari Tours
offers an exciting day adventure into the interior of the island and visiting
some of the islands ‘hard to get to’ places. This is a must do tour towards the
beginning of your stay and is a great way to really get a feel for the lay of the
land.
SAT, 22 SEPTEMBER: THE MAIN RACE DAY
The 31km race starts at Sinai Hall (across from Beachcomber in Avarua) at 5:30am and the
10km race will start in Muri at 7:30am. Complimentary busses will be available to pick up
participants in the morning to get you to the race by 5:30am.
Race Numbers and final check in will be conducted from the Corporate Marquees prior to
the race. At the finish line, there will be complementary coconut juice, water,
light snacks and tropical fruit for all runners & supporters after the race.

SAT, 22 SEPTEMBER: NIGHTLIFE 41 ST CELEBRATION


Celebrate 41 years of Round Raro Road Race with fellow race participants on
the GOING TROPPO Nightlife Bus Tour. Cool down the island way with your
responsible sober driver. Cheers to a good run!!! (18 yrs+)
SUN, 23 SEPTEMBER: CAPTAIN TAMA’S LAGOON CRUISE
Discover the Lagoon aboard the glass bottom boats. Snorkel and feed the fish before
heading to a motu (small island) where you will be entertained while the crew
prepare a Fish BBQ lunch. Special price for Road Race participants and Supporters.
SUN, 23 SEPTEMBER: PRIZE GIVING DINNER
Day of rest in the Cook Islands with limited activities available. If you missed out on the
Lagoon Cruise, we recommend you to attend the Sunday Church service where you can enjoy
the distinctive traditional hymns of the Cook Islands. The Official Prize Giving Island Night
Dinner & Show will kick off at 6pm.

MON, 24 SEPTEMBER: HASH HARRIERS BIRTHDAY RUN


The local Hash House Harriers birthday promises a Costumed Run that is not to be missed.
It starts around 5.30pm at the Spaghetti House Restaurant, Edgewater Resort. Come as the
Queen, come as the shoe maker, you name it, you wear it. Wigs and hats supplied by Hash
Harriers on the day.
This event is followed by an Island Feast at approximately $10.00 per person for those that wish
to eat and mingle with the Hash Harrier Team. Cash bar available.

TUES, 25 SEPTEMBER: NUTTERS CROSS ISLAND RUN


The Nutters Cross Island Run is approx. 8.5km that starts at 2:00pm from the Inspiration
of Rarotonga (opposite Vaima Restaurant) and heads over ridges across rugged valleys and
riverbeds down to the Avatiu Coastline.
The remarks from this run have been branded the most difficult in the country. It is not
recommended for the fainthearted. The record still stands unbeaten at 45 minutes, and
promises to be an exciting challenge. If you think you can beat it, give it a go!

WED, 26 SEPTEMBER: ROUND THE ROCK RELAY


The relay will start at 2:00pm for the walkers and 4:00pm for the runners at the Spaghetti
House Restaurant, Edgewater Resort. This is a fun event and all teams are encouraged to
adopt a theme. Registration forms for the relay can be obtained on the day of the 5km FUN RUN,
the day of the main 31km and 10km race, DMCK website at www.dmck.co.ck or from our office
at Turama House in Nikao.
go Ship
Camping on a

Car
Story: Thomas Koteka
Photos: Apai Mataiapo Keu Framhein,
The Late Don Silk & The Late Bob Boyd

beyond the reef. Whilst this perked us up,


we ignored breakfast.

MV Manuvai was a hive of activity, deck


passengers had packed their gear so
that the tarpaulins could be secured and
hatches opened to unload Atiu cargo.
3 lighters from the shore were already
alongside and with much zeal loaded with
cargo and passengers for the first run
through the narrow passage in the reef. The
Captain said if we wanted to go ashore, get
down to the cargo deck and await further
instructions. These instructions never came
so when the next lighters drew alongside
we just clambered down the ships side
and set ourselves atop the cargo. Nobody

R
arotonga, December 1973, pre stale vomit, the heat, the steady throbbing seemed to mind.
domestic airlines and the Banana of the ships main engine and the constant
Court was the only place to be motion of the Pacific. Fortunately my Mum had telegraphed my
seen on a Friday and Saturday night, the Auntie Parau on Atiu to look out for us. She
four of us were fortunate to secure the last It was 6.30pm when Cook announced Dinner. was waiting and immediately put us on the
cabin on Silk & Boyds inter island vessel MV A huge pot of boiled mutton flaps and back of a truck for a tour of Atiu. We even
Manuvai for a 5 day round trip cargo run to cabbage accompanied by fresh baked Avarua visited the old Church where my Mum and
Atiu, Mauke and Mangaia. It was to be the bread, tinned butter and hot black tea greeted Dad got married after they eloped from
last ship to these islands before Christmas. us. Cook had forgotten to load sugar and Rarotonga. This was followed by lunch at
milk powder but would pick some up on Atiu. the Resident Agents verandah in the main
With 30 deck passengers under a tarpaulin Feeling famished and queasy at the same village of Ngatiarua hosted by Auntie Parau
stretched over the cargo holds, 4 cabin time did not stop us from tucking in. and the family. We were indeed spoilt
passengers, crew and cargo of all sorts, for choice - boiled fresh water prawns in
MV Manuvai sat right on her Plimsoll Line. Lucky we had bought with us a plastic bucket, coconut cream, whole fried parrot fish,
A Prayer for a safe passage was offered to which we all took turns using on that 1st rukau, swamp taro, mitiore, eke (octopus),
Tangaroa, then she detached her lines and long night in our cabin. Me and my fellow ika mata, breadfruit, pineapples and
set course for Atiu. passengers, Simon and the 2 girls were not drinking nuts… awesome!!!!.
very well at all!!!!
Our cabin had two sets of bunks, a small Afterwards we went for a fresh water swim
wash basin, standing room only for 3 Early morning, the 4 of us despairingly in the Anatakitaki caves. The water was cold
persons and one porthole which none of us ventured onto the main deck, emptied the which helped battle the heat of the day. We
could open, so it was hot. For the time being contents of our bucket over the side and then, also visited Aunties plantation where we
the excitement of the trip preoccupied us we were trounced by the sight and smells of were gifted with fresh pineapples, pawpaw,
from the smell of diesel fumes, whiff of a beautiful island not more than 150 yards bananas and Atiu limes - where we were

74 • ESCAPE
Below: Cave swim Atiu
Previous page: Mangaia pineapples

going to stow all this on board was not a


concern at this time.

After our farewells we boarded the last


lighter in the late afternoon. Strange how
the condition of the seas can change,
we were drenched by the time we pulled
being
alongside and the conditions demanded
fried for breakfast. The
all our attention and adroitness climbing
trip, he said yes and in the same breath told Pacific was dead calm. There was barely
aboard. Where we were going to stow
us there would be no refunds. That being a ripple across the reef, the ocean floor
all that fruit was now of no concern
established he did allow us to use the foam some 10 fathoms below revealed fish of
because they all tumbled into the Pacific
mattresses and bedding from our cabin to many varieties dancing amongst the coral
as we clambered aboard, we did rescue 2
sleep on. As 10 passengers had alighted to outcrops and underwater canyons that
pineapples and a bag of Atiu limes. The rest
Atiu there was ample room for us to set up disappeared into the dark blue. We enjoyed
became the property of the crew from the
camp under the tarpaulin on the deck. The our breakfast that morning - Simon and the
lighter as they gathered what they could
fresh sea breeze qualified our decision and girls were very content.
while heading back to shore. I sensed that
that night we slept soundly.
Simon and the 2 girls were not impressed
A light rain had started as the hatches
as we set sail for Mauke.
After most of the night hove too in the lee of were cleared to unload the Mauke cargo.
Mauke, the early morning greeted us with Amongst other things there was a a new
6.30pm, Cook just had dinner on the table
the aroma of gardenia’s, frangipani, tiare pickup truck for the Island administration
when the yelling started! …“e Mahimahi…
maori and the last of the mahimahi fillets which was skillfully delivered through the
e’e rua Mahimahi…..iiiaaaa kuku” !!! For
expediency the Captain reduced revolutions
as the crew hauled in the 2 mahimahi
caught on the 2 hand-lines. They changed
Afterwards we went for a fresh water swim in
colour a number of times from black to gold the Anatakitaki caves. The water was cold which
and all the colours in between as they lay
on the deck, sad to see such a crude ending helped battle the heat of the day.
to these Pacific wanderers. Cook stowed
most of the dinner he had prepared to have
the next day and with delight, changed
the menu to fresh fried mahimahi fillets.
30 minutes ago these amazing creatures
were roaming the Pacific minding their
own business, never-the-less they were
delicious doused with Atiu limes.

Atiu had put us all in good spirits and we


had found our sea legs, so during dinner we
admitted that our cabin was not the best
environment for us and given the 1st nights
experience we were dead keen to seek
other arrangements. Cook mentioned the
deck was the best place on account of the
constant fresh sea breeze.

So we asked the Captain if we could


become deck passengers for the rest of the

ESCAPE • 75
Left and opposite page: MV Manuvai
Below: Mauke passage 1970's

It was still calm and drizzling, when we


arrived to Mangaia in the early hours
of the morning. Cook was poorly so the
2nd Engineer prepared breakfast, instant
coffee (he found a tin of coffee in the Cooks
cabin!!!), cabin bread biscuits and fresh
pineapple (which he found in our cabin!!!!) -
the breakfast was delectable!!!

Mangaia is my birth Island. I left here when


I was 8 years old, and I had not returned till
now. I recollected many things as I gazed at
the towering makatea cliffs that circled this
very ancient island.
passage on 2 lighters bound together by 6 the bunches of banana’s on the deck and
x 2 timbers and hemp ropes. stored our many bottles of Mauke miracle Often Simon had commented that I was
coconut oil as the light rain continued, still a tad strange fellow with an attitude. This
Fortunately my Mum had telegraphed we were cozy and dry under the tarpaulin was confirmed when he was told by the
Auntie Helen on Mauke to watch out for us, as we set sail for Mangaia. Captain that Managians were often referred
and there she was as we stepped ashore. to as the Irish of the Pacific on account of
Auntie Helen was never short of a word and Like clockwork dinner was announced at their strange behaviour and holier-than-
as we followed her in the rain to her home 6.30pm, and goodness me, what a treat!!! thou attitude.
at Tepari she kept us informed of all the ‘Tiopu tomati’ – or bully beef stew with
gossip on Mauke. She had already prepared fresh Mauke tomatoes, onions for contrast Fortunately my Mum had already
lunch for us, free range chicken curry, bele, and Watties tinned spaghetti for binding. telegraphed Auntie Tu to watch out for us
maito, coconut cream, pawpaw and banana The rain had chilled the air and tiopu tomati, and there she was waiting for us as we
pancakes, tomato and cucumber salad cabin bread biscuits and tinned butter alighted from the barge that had bought
from her garden, fried taro and candied warmed us up. We also had powdered milk us through the passage. Mangaia was the
coconut drink. As we ate she captivated and sugar. Today was an awesome day, 1st outer island to get a motorised barge
us with stories about our genealogy, her Simon and the 2 girls were speechless. to transfer cargo to the ships off the reef.
husband, the late Judge MacCarthy, their
feeding sons and daughters and what my
Mum was like while she was growing up on
Mauke. This fascinating lunch ended when
my cousin Framhein arrived with 4 horses
which we road bareback to the centre of
the island to swim in one of Mauke’s many
fresh water caverns.

Mauke is my family island on my mother’s


side (she and her siblings were all born
here), so being here was a poignant
experience for me. Simon and the 2 girls
were most overcome with my Mauke
heritage as narrated by Auntie Helen in the
short time we were there.

By 4.30pm we had already said our


goodbyes to the Mauke family, loaded

76 • ESCAPE
This was so as this island was exporting
pineapples by the ship load for the NZ
market. As this was the last island on
this schedule MV Manuvai’s holds would
now be empty and ready to load up with
pineapples to trans ship to Rarotonga -
very enterprising!

Auntie Tu had arranged a truck for us to use


for the day to explore Mangaia, which is the
2nd largest island in the group. She also
has the distinction of being the oldest coral
island on the planet, having gone through
a number of periods where she was raised
from the ocean floor. Evidence of this are
her towering makatea cliffs which circle
the island like a castle keep protecting the The barge hit the side of the MV Manuvai quite hard
rolling landscape of her interior. She is also
on account of a rogue wave. I don’t recall how we
riddled with a network of caves many of
which were used by our ancestors to bury did it, but all 10 of us, in unison, alighted effortlessly
the dead.
while that rogue wave held the barge at the very
We visited the hospital where I was born same level as the deck for no more than a split
and the house where I spent my first years
on the planet, memories of my childhood second! Simon and the 2 girls were so impressed
came flooding back. Simon and the 2 girls they cried with joy!
thought I was crying, but it was dust in my
eye!
was actually underwater! No worries said When the barge returned to the landing
We were just about to have lunch at someone, the hull of the barge is sealed a number of official type Officials began
Auntie Tu’s when someone rolled up on and cannot leak. And with that we set off to very heated discussions with the crew.
a very old Suzuki 90 2 stroke motorbike MV Manuvai beyond the reef. Nothing came of it and in the end we wet
and announced that we had to get on passengers again boarded the barge (this
board ship as soon as possible. The last It happened so quickly. The barge tipped time without any cargo) and made our way
of the cargo was being loaded and more suddenly just outside the reef entrance! As back to the MV Manuvai. It was dead quiet
importantly, the weather was deteriorating a result, we and the pineapples slid off deck as we went through the passage entrance,
and the Captain wanted to set sail as soon into the Pacific!!! As we surfaced amongst save for someone whistling an Elvis Presley
as all passengers were aboard. a sea of pineapples, we heard - ”swim to number. We noticed that the wind was now
the reef… swim to the reef”. As the barge stronger and the Pacific a tad nasty.
Auntie Tu said hurry up let’s go or you’ll be chugged away, the crew yelling ”swim to
stranded here for a month! She wrapped a the reef!”, I guessed Simon and the 2 girls The barge hit the side of the MV Manuvai
kikau basket of food for us and took us to were not impressed at this time. quite hard on account of a rogue wave. I
the landing. There were only 10 passengers Apart from a few grazes and scratches don’t recall how we did it, but all 10 of us,
heading back to Rarotonga, which included gleaned as we crossed the reef we, and the in unison, alighted effortlessly while that
the 4 of us. The last barge was loaded other passengers were ok and as we made rogue wave held the barge at the very
with pineapples in wooden containers and our way across the shallow lagoon back same level as the deck for no more than a
we were instructed to climb on top of the to the landing half of Mangaia was making split second! Simon and the 2 girls were so
cargo. Nobody on or off the barge was it’s way to the reef to rescue as many impressed they cried with joy!
alarmed that the transom of the barge pineapples as they could!

ESCAPE • 77
Left: Avarua late 1960's
Above: Old Avatiu Airport
Below: Don Silk and Bob Boyd

After a thank you


prayer to Tangaroa,
family and friends
helped us disembark.
Now on dry land, we all
continued to feel the
motion of MV Manuvai.

With a puff of black diesel smoke from in a game of eucre as MV Manuvai rock and tomorrow evening, it would be a 10 day
the funnel, the holds half full of Mangaian rolled her way to Rarotonga. passage.
pineapples, we set course for Rarotonga.
By all accounts it was going to be a very The Pacific had calmed down by 6am. When I look back, I acknowledge that
rough passage! Extra coverings were placed We could now see the peaks of Ikurangi these small island traders and their crews
at the bow end of the cargo deck to help and Maungatea on the horizon. Everyone sacrificed and risked all in providing a
keep the seaspray from coming in, while the started preparations for arrival into reliable service to the outer islands, but
noise of the hull as it slammed into a wave Avatiu harbour. Cook, now back on that was the norm in those days. A new
was uncomfortably deafening, but we were deck, announced that leftovers were for generation continue this service today, and
warm and snug camped under the tarpaulin breakfast. Simon and the 2 girls thought still with deck passengers under tarpaulins,
on the deck. about it, otherwise no one was interested. a stark contrast to the availability of air
services to nearly all the islands in the
With the Cook still poorly, the usual 6.30pm It was 9.30am as we entered the harbour. group.
dinner announcement was made by the The crew had already hauled and stowed
2nd Engineer. This was ignored by most, the tarpaulins and without any fuss we Mum picked us up in the Datsun truck and
including Simon and the 2 girls. I was were securely moored to Avatiu wharf. we headed to our Takuvaine home for
hungry so I carefully made my way to the a long shower and fresh clothes. As we
dining room to find 2 other passengers After a thank you prayer to Tangaroa, passed the Avarua markets opposite Rima’s
at the table. Boiled salt beef, onions and family and friends helped us disembark. Cafe, out of the blue, Simon suggested we
cabbage, rice, tomatoes, Mangaian taro Now on dry land, we all continued to feel head down to Avatiu wharf in the morning
(the best in the Pacific!!!), cabin bread & the motion of MV Manuvai. This would last and see if they had space for us on deck
tinned butter, steaming hot black tea a couple of days and was quite normal, for the Northern Group trip … but that’s
or instant coffee, sugar, powdered milk Simon and the 2 girls looked as if they were another story.
and pineapple pie! There was plenty for drunk.
everyone !!! I thought, Simon and the 2 girls
would be hungry in the morning. As the last passenger stepped ashore
MV Manuvai opened her holds and the
Full bellied I headed back to the camp site unloading of the pineapples began. Piled
to find them sound asleep. I was impressed high on the wharf was cargo designated
that none of them were seasick. I couldn’t for Manihiki, Penrhyn and Pukapuka, which
sleep so joined the other deck passengers was where the MV Manuvai was heading

78 • ESCAPE
RUMOURS
CAFE

Intimate air-conditioned dining Sunday,


Wednesday & Friday.
Pacific Rim cuisine & full bar facilities
(BYO if you wish).
Reservations Essential.

Ph: +682 31 906 Mob: +682 55755


reservations@aitutakiescape.com
www.aitutakiescape.com

“Sharing our culture with you”


Island Nights
Island Nights
sharing our culture with you - every Tuesday
Every Tuesdays
Local | Food | Music | Dancing
LOc aL • FOOD • Music • Dancing

ESCAPE • 79
Located at Ootu Beach.
Located atOpen 7 days a week for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Ootu Beach.
Aitutaki a little slice
of heaven

Kia Orana! Aitutaki is 220 kilometers north and an easy 45-minute flight from
Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Considered one of the most magnificent
lagoons in the world with small uninhabited islands on its surrounding reef, it is
unquestionably the most picturesque of the Cooks southern group islands.
Many visitors to the Cook Islands take the outside world. The breathtaking allure
opportunity to discover Aitutaki’s beauty of its crystal clear turquoise waters and
by taking a day trip from Rarotonga, sparkling white beaches confirms that it is
which usually includes a cruise on the “one of the places to visit while you are still
lagoon. However, the luxury of a little on this earth”.
extra time fully reveals the stunning
palette of a tropical retreat unsurpassed From the air this island paradise has to
anywhere in the world; and a welcoming be one of the most beautiful sights in the
and friendly local populace who live life South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a
at an easy, relaxed pace. So, if you’re triangular-shaped reef encompassing an
considering a visit - stay over a night or aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and
two, or preferably longer; you will not be twelve small coral islands nestle. A small
disappointed. island is known locally as a motu.

And certainly, a visit to the Cook Islands is The best thing about Aitutaki is
not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is undoubtedly its lagoon. They have taxis
a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and here, but rather than those normally
simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating found on land, these are small fast boats
tonic to sooth away the pressures of the equipped with outboard motors. They can

80 • ESCAPE
take you to your own private island where you can spend the day
snorkeling, sunbathing or having a picnic, and then pick you up
after several restful, sun-filled hours.

There are also numerous lagoon tours, which last almost an


entire day. Lunch, refreshments, snorkeling gear, and towels are
always provided and nearly all tour operators can pick you up
from the airport, or your hotel. Possibly the most well-known is Air The highlight of Aitutaki is her lagoon and
Rarotonga’s day tour onboard Titi-ai-Tonga, a large double hulled a visit is not complete without joining us
vessel that cruises languidly in the lagoon. Sit down meals are for a fun filled day cruising this spectacular
served by friendly staff, and after snorkeling in the lagoon visitors
wonder.
are taken to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai).
Explore the incredible marine life while
Bishops Cruises is perhaps the lagoon’s most experienced and snorkeling and swimming. We offer a range of
they offer a choice of cruises to various islands. And you can tours and lagoon taxi services, hotel transfers,
opt for a smaller boat with a more intimate and personal tour if
snorkeling gear, beach towels and BBQ lunch
on the famous One Foot Island.
... your own private island where
you can spend the day snorkeling, We are also ‘Island Wedding’ specialists.
sunbathing or having a picnic, and
Tel: +682 31009
then pick you up after several restful, Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck
sun-filled hours.
Visit our website to discover more...
www.bishopscruises.com
ESCAPE • 81
This vast lagoon was Zealand and TEAL themery can be found in time to see them move from this part of
a small lodge on Motu Akaiami. The lodge the Pacific, as they pursued the Japanese
once a stopover for the has been built on the exact spot where further to the north and west. The runway
the original terminal stood and remains of has recently been completely rebuilt.
TEAL (Tasman Empire the original base and jetty are still visible Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki
Airways Limited) Short today. Here the well-to-do of the fifties, airport is the busiest it’s been since the war
including movie stars John Wayne, Cary days.
Solent flying boats Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours
traveling the renowned or even overnight, while planes were re- Back further in time; the first European
fuelled, serviced, or waiting for weather to discovery was by Captain Bligh sailing on
‘Coral Route’ through clear. Passengers would swim in the clear the Bounty in 1789. He sighted the island
warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors just 17 days prior to the infamous mutiny.
the South Pacific. under the palms and eat lunches of crisply
cut sandwiches and local pawpaw, before
you wish. After a wonderful morning of
re-embarking.
snorkeling and feeding the fish, lunch is
usually served at One Foot Island which
Aitutaki has an interesting aviation
boasts what could be the world’s smallest
history. It was 1942 when the construction
Post Office. Don’t forget to take your
juggernaut that would soon become
passport with you; because you can have
known as the Seabees came ashore and
it stamped here, making a great souvenir
began constructing what many feared
of your visit.
would be the last line of defence for allied
forces fighting the Japanese. The airport
This vast lagoon was once a stopover for
at Aitutaki was constructed as part of
the TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited)
operation Bobcat. With their slogan” we
Short Solent flying boats traveling the
build – we fight”, the Seabees soon had
renowned ‘Coral Route’ through the South
the island air-base operational; just in
Pacific. TEAL is the former name of Air New

82 • ESCAPE
A I T U TA K I • CO O K I S L A N D S
Tamanu Beach
Tamanu BeachCASUAL LUXURY

A winding road
criss-crossing the island and lots
of small tracks, lead to interesting,
unexpected places and a number of
local villages.
Bligh returned later to Aitutaki and is said to have introduced
the pawpaw which, like other varieties of tropical fruit, grows in
abundance all over the island.

50 years later the first missionary, the Reverend John Williams of


The London Missionary Society, introduced Christianity to Aitutaki
and the Cook Islands Christian Church, down by the wharf at
Arutanga, became the very first Church built in the Cook Islands.
A grand old lady with coral walls, stained glass windows and
ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals
and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to
embrace Christianity.

Delving further into the islands past is local archaeologist


Ngaakitai Pureariki. On a four-acre site in one of Aitutaki’s bush-
clad valleys Nga’a is uncovering remnants of his peoples’ ancient

Takurua
past on a site strewn with large obelisk-like stones. Carbon dating
of samples reveal that the Marae at Paengariki was established
around 1000 A.D. Warriors met here before and after battle; sacred
feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human
sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit for the
Aitutaki Cultural Tour at Punarei.
Island Night
Visitors will find a wide range of accommodation options available
on the main island; from award-winning resorts to less expensive
clean and comfortable motels and backpacker operations. The EVERY THURSDAY
best way to see the Aitutaki mainland is by hired car or motor RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL
scooter. A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small
tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of
Ph. 31 810
W W W.TA M A N U B E ACESCAPE
H . CO M
• 83
Hot sun, white sands,
swaying coconut palms,
a stunning turquoise
lagoon and romantic
sunsets - Aitutaki is
blessed with them all;
and friendly, laughing
people that make you
feel very welcome
– all the time.

local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic


360 degrees’ lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you
turn. Several guided tours are available on the main island, visiting
ancient sites, burial grounds and major points of interest. Most
serve light refreshments or lunch.

Island nights with cultural shows are on throughout the week.


Experiences not be missed are the island nights at Pacific Resort
Aitutaki, Aitutaki Village and Tamanu Beach. Some of the best
meals using local produce are to be savoured at Tamanu Beach
and Aitutaki Escape on the western side of the island and at O’otu
Beach you will find The Boatshed, Koru Café and the Blue Lagoon
Restaurant and Bar. All are great places to visit whether you
want lunch or dinner or just a drink and to relax and to take in the
Islands atmosphere.

Fishing aficionados will be in heaven on Aitutaki, as several


operators offer game and sport fishing beyond the reef and there
is always the call of the elusive bone-fish within the lagoon. On
the waterfront near the wharf at Arutanga, is the Aitutaki Game
Fishing Club which has a bar inside a shipping container; this is
a good place to make contacts for deep sea fishing enthusiasts.
Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a
choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and
a memorable underwater experience.

Hot sun, white sands, swaying coconut palms, a stunning


turquoise lagoon and romantic sunsets - Aitutaki is blessed with
them all; and friendly, laughing people that make you feel very
welcome – all the time.

84 • ESCAPE
rs
From scoote
ch oo se an
to cars, , c e to
load ed ca
at icrsvehicl
auto m ur
yoal
it du
e to suvi
su yoclur
it hi
a ve indi
ed s Our well-maintained and
and modern
modern fleet
eet includes
du al ne ou r
indi
ne edvis from rge
rgeou
frlaom r la
fle et... 44door
door cars
cars &&hatchbacks,
hatchbacks,softvans
tops
fleet… andand
automatic scooters
automatic scooters

Phone: (682) 31739 | Email: rentals@popoara.co.ck


www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com

…We have all the connections for your Aitutaki Experience…

Ph: +682 31 906 Mob: +682 55755


reservations@aitutakiescape.com
www.aitutakiescape.com ESCAPE • 85
Atiu Be different, come to Atiu,
Enua Manu
formations only occur underwater. There
are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern
floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as
though they are embedded with millions of
diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns
is breathtaking.

our little Garden of Paradise Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial
Cave that includes visits to age old marae

T
and “walking the dramatic route taken by
here are few places left in the world full of captivating history, scenery and
hundreds as they went to meet their death
like Atiu, an island with just over friendly people.
in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights
500 people and acres and acres of
and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt
untouched rainforest and coastal bush. The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect
for an island tour. It offers contrasting
There are no western bars (apart from the offering for visitors who want an
scenery, drives through shady roads and
small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights unforgettable nature experience. On the
forest thick with ancient trees to coastal
or busy roads. For travellers searching for day we went, we were guided by Marshall
tracks and points of interest including
an island paradise, Atiu is it. Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne,
the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous
Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation
little beaches ideal for shell collecting or
Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on and how the locals “always leave a bit for
leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea.
departure that they wish they’d organised the next day, like when they go fishing
a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also
George Mateariki, better known as
impressed with the way the island works
Birdman George, takes us on his morning
as a community.
tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of
the endangered Kakerori bird. We are
Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are
a bit startled as George begins loudly
needed for the trek through tropical forest
beeping his car horn as we near the
that resembles a fantastically overgrown
garden. Regarded by environmentalists
as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is The Anatakitaki Cave
home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique
to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way
walk is the perfect
in the pitch black caverns using sonar. offering for visitors who
The towering limestone caverns contain
cauliflower coral, proving that the caves want an unforgettable
were once beneath the sea, as these coral
nature experience.

86 • ESCAPE
nesting ground. He explains that being
inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to
unusual noises. He calls to them, walking
through the picturesque bush and making
kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint,
replying with their call sounds. To see
Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they
were once on the brink of extinction.

Along the way, George points out


medicinal plants and how they are used to
treat various ailments. “I love my history
and everything I know about Atiu was
taught to me by my grandfathers,” says “There’s money in the land,” says Mata
George. Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes fact file:
laden with ripe berries. Mata is an
Atiu is a 45 minute flight north-east from
A fun experience is a visit to one of the industrious Atiuan woman who produces
Rarotonga and there are regular scheduled
legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee
flights. Alternatively, why not consider
local men gather to drink homebrew and using a technique she learnt from her
an Air Rarotonga ‘Two Island Adventure’
chat about island affairs, with clear rules grandmother as a child. It’s a process
which includes two night’s accommodation
about conduct. Often there’s a string- all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can
at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki and
band for added entertainment. Visitors are be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu
two night’s accommodation at Atiu Villas
always welcome to stop in, partake of a stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.
on amazing Atiu. Local tours are optional
cup of the local brew and meet the locals.
and extra. Available from April to October,
flights depart Rarotonga on Mondays,
...visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic Wednesdays and Fridays.

route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their Book through Air Rarotonga
Tel: (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com
death in ancient times.”

t i
A lasu Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or
stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas,
the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant
and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi.

V i l
BOOK ONLINE AT: www.atiuvillas.com
Ph. (682) 33 777 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info
ESCAPE • 87
ic Home
a
P cif
Our

South

A sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands


combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are
scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean,
covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’
is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every
one offering a warm welcome to visitors.

The Southern Group caves and the famous Motuanga Cave the least visited by tourists. Not because
that has galleries reaching beneath the it is any less beautiful than sister islands
Atiu reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the
See our story on page 86. that crashing white breakers are visible least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are
from most of the unsealed coral road two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels.
Takutea
that runs around the island. Do visit the Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in
Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu
“divided church” built where the villages of the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also
lies the uninhabited island of Takutea.
Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from
Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine
two villages, it has two separate entrances time to time protected by a traditional
island that has been declared a bird
and sitting areas. There are clean and raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve
sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only
comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try stocks. At its widest point, the island is
they can give permission for visitors to
Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages. 6.4 km across and private gardens in
land there.
They can also organise cave, reef and the village are beautifully kept and neat.
forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of Community activities include fishing,
Mauke
the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village
The garden island of the Cook group,
along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on
Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is
unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.
surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral)
for frayed nerves.
with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts
Mangaia
of the foreshore are dotted with isolated
Mitiaro Imagine visiting a fairly large island where
white sandy coves and caves that one
Of the cluster of islands in the southern you and maybe a handful of others are
can swim in. Inland there are fresh water
group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the only tourists. Mangaia is an island

88 • ESCAPE
Below: Mauke
Right: Mitiaro
Previous page: Mangaia

of incredible, serene beauty – from


its rugged coastline to the lush, green
interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for
those accustomed to the constant rush
and haste of the outside world. This is a
place where one can trek for miles along
the coast or in the interior and not meet
another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see
any dwellings; just lots of well-tended
plantations of pineapples, vegetables,
taro, kumara and other crops.
Deep-sea fishing excursions are available
– just ask your host, who can also steer
you in the right direction for guided tours
that include caving, reef/lagoon walks,
bush walks and bird watching. Check
out the market on Friday mornings in a large family. Marsters’ modern day
The Northern Group
the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork descendents are scattered all over the
by the skilled Mangaian women. The world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston,
Suwarrow
shell necklaces and woven pandanus which has six motu or islets in a big blue
Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched"
bags are labour intensive and sold for lagoon about 11 km across. The family
sanctuaries left in the world where
very reasonable prices. Mangaia is exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot
existing endangered species can survive.
the destination for those who love the fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston
The Suwarrow National Park is the
outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and hosts the occasional cruise ship and
first National Park in the Cook Islands
want to experience a friendly island that’s yachts frequently call in. The island also
- international environmental groups
not in the least “touristy.” boasts one of the world’s most isolated
recognise the group of tiny atolls as an
bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a
untouched haven and breeding area for
Palmerston “cold one” and hear tales being regaled
turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of
Made famous by Englishman William by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of
the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow
Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with Rarotonga.
is acknowledged as one of the most
three wives. He later married and raised
important sea bird breeding areas in the
Manuae
Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on
Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve
Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season,
and an important seabird and turtle
between April and November each year.
breeding ground. Its two islets in a large
Yachts often visit the island during these
shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly
months. Suwarrow was made famous
beautiful island, situated about 100 km
by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who
SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim
lived there during the early 1950’s and
traditional land rights to parts of Manuae.
again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about
Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook
his experiences in his book “An Island to
Islands men who produced copra, it is
Oneself.”
now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki
fisherman for its rich fishing grounds
Pukapuka
outside and within the lagoon. It is possible
Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga,
to view Manuae from the air, on a flight
Pukapuka is one of the most isolated
from Atiu to Aitutaki.
islands of the Cook group. One inter-
island flight from Rarotonga about
every six weeks and irregular shipping

ESCAPE • 89
Left: Penrhyn

Penrhyn (or Tongareva)


is the most remote of
the Cook group,
lying 1365 km NNE of
Rarotonga. It has a
remarkable blue water
lagoon measuring
233 sq km.

has kept Pukapuka one of the most Nassau was hooked up to the country’s shells all year around. The women are also
untouched and secluded places in the telephone system only in 2001 and many renowned for their finely woven craftwork.
Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the of the people had never used a telephone Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and
traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where those who have been fortunate enough
unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak families live in kikau thatched cottages. to visit the island, have never been
the distinct Pukapukan language as well disappointed.
as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, Manihiki
almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka The cultured black pearl capital of the Rakahanga
population was almost entirely wiped out Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become Sister island of Manihiki and 42km
during a catastrophic storm that struck centrepieces for fine jewellery that are north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only
the island. Fourteen people survived, from worn by women and men all over the possible by boat from Manihiki or inter-
whom Pukapukan’s today are said to world. In 1997, the island survived one of island vessel. There are two main islands
descend. The late American writer Robert the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history. and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon.
Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and It claimed 19 lives after a tidal wave swept The island is picturesque and unspoiled.
immortalised Pukapuka in the books he men, women and children out into the
wrote about life on the island. The now huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this Penrhyn
uninhabited area where he lived with his remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote
Pukapuka wife and children is one of the outboard boats to travel between Tukao of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE
most beautiful – an untouched white and Tauhunu – two villages on separate of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue
sandy beach with palm trees reaching out islets – or to their pearl farms set up on water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A
to tease the clear blue lagoon. coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in
are sophisticated operations jutting out the extraordinary lagoon. The villages
Nassau of the deep blue lagoon, complete with of Tetautua and Omoka are on different
Access to this tiny island of about 80 small gardens and poultry farms that islets that are barely visible to each other.
Pukapukans can only be gained by inter- help support workers who live in modern Penrhyn island women make the finest
island boat. Regarded as the sister island quarters. Manihiki women have made rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats,
of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga history for entering what was once a male bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are
takes about three days. The islanders are dominated vocation. A number of women amongst the best to be found anywhere in
adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle own and manage their own pearl farms, the world.
that remains unchanged year after year. diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster

90 • ESCAPE
Guidelines for an enjoyable time at the beach
and in the lagoon…
Coral is a living organism! It takes hundreds of
years to develop a reef like ours and you can harm
the reef just by standing on it; many steps
may kill it.

What you can do to help…


• Make sure your gear fits properly, is comfortable
and adjusted, before you go in the water. If you
need to make adjustments, find a sandy area on
which to stand, or swim to the shore.
• If there is a RAUI (protected marine area) in
place, please respect it and leave everything in
the lagoon that belongs to it.
• Observe animals exhibiting their natural
behavior rather than stimulating them to
entertain.
• Please do not harass or touch protected species,
such as turtles, giant clams and fragile corals.
• There is no need to feed the fish. To attract
them closer just bang two little stones together.
They will come.
• Please take your rubbish with you when you
leave the beach.

Thank you for looking after our lagoon.


Take nothing but memories – leave nothing
but bubbles…

Photos: The DiveESCAPE • 91


Centre & Jim Gariu
entertainment
guide

T During the week


ake in the sunset with a cocktail near
the water; catch an Island Night
Show with beautiful dancers, and get A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature
down to live local Cook Islands music and live music during the week - refer to our
dancing all around town. Night Life Guide for details of what’s on,
when and where.
Raro’s night life is special – you can have a
great night out whether you’re on your own, It’s great to wander into some of our
or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing
matter, everyone just gets together. And Club is right on the water; meet the locals
you’ll feel welcome wherever you go. and play some pool, this bar is just east of
town.
Island Night Shows are a must for every
visitor. There is nothing better than seeing If you’re staying around the Muri or
our beautiful men and women, adorned in Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant
flowers and local costume, dancing to the at Muri Beach Club Hotel, or for a la carte
wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), dining and some local music the Pacific
ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is Resort, also well known for their Island
a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience. Night show. For casual ambience, check out
Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw,
these pages to find a venue that suits you. or mouth-watering Mexican dishes at La

HE
AT T TLETS RAROTONGA’S
LE U
AB UM O

BEST SELECTION
A I L I
AV M
O W D PRE
N AN
ND
BO

OF INTERNATIONAL BEER BRANDS

92 • ESCAPE
o . 1 c e l la r s
Casita. Take a walk downtown and call into The New Place for
great al fresco dining. Your N
On the sunset side, you have great choices from Shipwreck Hut at
Aro’a Beachside Inn for casual dining, to OTB at Manuia resort for
beachside dining, to Flambe or Oceans at Crown Beach or Kikau
Hut especially on Mondays for live music.

Check all places out for when they have their happy hours or meal
specials.

Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a


restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with
your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night.

Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the
local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks,

o u r h u g e r a n ge…
Check out
and great company.

Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable
shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open. Over 600 wines, all popular
brand spirits, liqueurs, beers, RTD’s,
mixers, ice, etc. Wedding and special
Friday Night occasion catering, party-hire.
Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, Free delivery 6 days per week.
unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is
a great place to start:

First up is a sunset cocktail at Trader Jacks, where there’s always


a nice mix of locals and tourists. Luna Bar near The Fudge Factory
has various entertainment depending on the night.

Later in the night it’s back to Rehab for some dancing, or perhaps
for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds.
The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes
away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will
give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or
taxi if you’re drinking.

C o o k I s la n d s r:
A g e n t s f o r:
An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your
Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving.

STEINLAGE
GER, WAIKATO,
O, LIO
LI N RED,
RED,
E LION
LION ICE
ICE,, SPEI
IC SPEIGHT
GHTS,
Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy.
X
XXXX, LITTLE
E CREAT
CR
REAT
EATURE
URES,
URES KIR
S, KIRIN.
IN ..
IN.
VILLA MARIA, TE MATA EST
TATE
AT
T , OYST
YSTER
E BAY
ER AY,, JULE
ULES
S TAYL
TAYLOR,
OR,
Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax
GIESENS, MC GU
GUIGANS, MUD
DHOU
HOUSE,
SE, SA
AINT CL
CLAIR
AIR,, YELA
YELANDS
D
and enjoy.
ESTATE, THE NED
ED, MT DIFFICU
ULTY
LTY,, ROAR
OA ING ME
MEG,
G TAY
G, TAYLOR
LORS…
S…
AND 100’S
S MO
ORE

In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace


Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7
ESCAPE • 93
Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck
entertainment
guide
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort:
Live entertainment (transfers available)
Rarotonga Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and
Keep our roads safe
if you’re drinking:
night-life guide Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular
“Dances of Legends” cultural performance &
island/western fusion buffet
MONDAY Islander Restaurant: Tuaine Papatua on guitar
Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live music

homecoming fare before you go out. Edgewater: Ru and Boyz


Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7
Buses: Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs nights a week. Live music with Tani & Rose also Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort:
Island Groove Pub Night menu with live entertainment
Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour

Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:
Live island music FRIDAY
Times are subject to change so contact the Oceans Restaurant @ Crown Beach Resort
i Site 29435 to confirm. Pacific Resort Rarotonga: A la carte dining and & Spa: Steak, Fish & Ribs Night with live
live local artist Fred Betham entertainment

Edgewater: Tokau Haurua Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7


nights a week. Live music some nights
TUESDAY
Island Night Shows Shipwreck Hut @ Aro’a Beachside Inn:
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach
Resort: Live entertainment with a DJ and happy
– Quick Guide Live music on the beach hour(transfers available)

(Bookings are recommended) Yellow Hibiscus @ Palm Grove: Pacific Resort Rarotonga: Tamariki Manuia A la
A la carte with live music from Lincoln carte dining and live local artist Kahiki Tehaamatai
Monday Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:
Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular
Highland Paradise Culture Centre 23953 Pig & Prawn Night with live music
“Dances of Legends” cultural performance &
island/western fusion buffet Trader Jacks: Kura every Friday lunch Friday
Tuesday
night Rere and the boys - rock classics & seafood,
Te Vara Nui Village 24006 Oceans Restaurant @ Crown Beach Resort steaks& pizza
& Spa: Seafood night with live music
The Islander Hotel 21003
Yellow Hibiscus @Palm Grove: Happy hour and a
Blue Lagoon @ Aitutaki Village, Aitutaki 31526 Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: la carte dining with live music every Friday night
Seafood Night with entertainment
The Edgewater Resort & Spa 25435 -Tara Kauvai - Mustonen or Tani & Rose alternate.
Edgewater: Polynesian Floor show with Taakoka Islander Restaurant: Kathy Brown on keyboards
Wednesday & Orama Dance group followed by Tara Kauvai
The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 Edgewater: Tereapii and Girls
Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000 WEDNESDAY
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: SATURDAY
Pacific Resort Aitutaki 31720
Live entertainment with Kura (transfers available) Shipwreck Hut @Aro’a Beachside Inn:
Highland Paradise Culture Centre 23953 Great beach BBQ with live music
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:
Thursday Polynesian Island Night buffet with Akirata Trader Jacks: Music with Tok Watch out for
Dance Troupe “Brews & BBQ” and special guests monthly at
Te Vara Nui Village 24006
Trader Jacks.
Crown Beach Resort & Spa 23953 Crown Beach Resort& Spa: Live music
Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining
Friday Kikau Hut: Live local music with Katreena Smith singing local and popular
songs
Highland Paradise Culture Centre 23953
Islander Restaurant: Kathy Brown on keyboard
from 6pm then Akirata Dance Troupe show from OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort:
Saturday
830pm Live entertainment with Garth on piano (transfers
The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 available)
Captain Andy’s: Andre Tapena
Te Vara Nui Village 24006
Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and
The Edgewater Resort & Spa 25435 BlueWater Grill: Tara Kauvai Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular
“Dances of Legends” cultural performance &
THURSDAY island/western fusion buffet
Shipwreck Hut @ Aro’a Beachside Inn:
Sunset cocktails with live music Edgewater: Polynesian Floor show with Taakoka
& Orama Dance group followed by Tara Kauvai
Remember you’re in Oceans Restaurant @ Crown Beach Resort Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show
& Spa: Live music followed by Cultural Island
Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, Night Show Captain Andy’s: Andre Tapena

Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 BlueWater Grill: Tara Kauvai
so relax and enjoy! nights a week. Live music some nights

94 • ESCAPE
SUNDAY
Club Raro: BBQ night Aitutaki THURSDAY
Tamanu Beach: Takurua, Island Fire & Dance
Show with Te Aito dance troupe and young
Oceans Restaurant@Crown Beach Resort
& Spa: Sunset roast with live entertainment
night-life guide children of Aitutaki and a Fire Dance show on the
beach with stringband. Fantastic entertainment
with a great selection of food
OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort:
Live entertainment with local island strings
MONDAY
(transfers available)
Rapae Bay @ Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Romantic FRIDAY
dining overlooking the sea, nightly from 6pm Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most
popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer
SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:
Flying Boat Beach Bar @ Aitutaki Lagoon
Reef & Beef night with live music
Resort & Spa: Fire dance show with Te Aito Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party
Dance Group no cover charge, a la carte dinner the night away with your host Ricky
Yellow Hibiscus @ Palm Grove:
Sunday BBQ with music from Lincoln and Lito
Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining

with the freshest local foods in a relaxed garden
SATURDAY
Pacific Resort Rarotonga: A la carte dining and Flying Boat Beach Bar @ Aitutaki Lagoon
setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm
live local artist Rudi Aquino Resort & Spa: Fire dance show with Te Uki Ou
Dance Group no cover charge, a la carte dinner
Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: TUESDAY
Blue Lagoon @ Aitutaki Village: Island buffet
BBQ with live entertainment
and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu
SUNDAY
Aitutaki Village: All day barbeque with great
Edgewater: Ru Tauta & Boyze entertainment
WEDNESDAY
The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this Tamanu Beach: Sunset Henry Family Barbeque
popular restaurant any day of the week. A-la- Night with great local entertainment from Uncle
carte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails! Taumuri Williams on keyboard and local island
food
Rapae Bay @ Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Island
night South Pacific cuisine and performances by
local Aitutaki song and dance troupe from 7pm

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening to


visit and meet the locals. Where else would Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.
you find a bar in a 20 foot container?

Located opposite the


Punanga Nui Market,
right next to the bus stop

ESCAPE • 95
what's
on

t hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty
to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports
participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands,
where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will
always find something of interest taking place.

JULY Mon 13th


School Term 3 begins
NOVEMBER
Fri 6th Thu 1st to Sat 3rd
Wed 15th
‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ (Ariki Day) – public holiday Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s, come
Rakahanga Gospel Day
and see great 7’s rugby in a Rarotongan
Thu 19th
Mon 20th to Fri 24th setting
Atiu Gospel Day
Manureva Aquafest in Aitutaki
Fri 23rd to Fri 30th November
Fri 20th
Vaka Eiva 2018 Canoeing Festival
School Term 2 complete – School Holidays SEPTEMBER A weeklong festival that attracts a large
begin
Sun 2nd number of international paddlers. Vaka
Mon 23rd Fathers Day Eiva has been referred to as “the most fun
Mauke Gospel Day event on the paddling planet!”
Thu 20th to Wed 26th
Tue 25th Round Rarotonga Road Race (subject to Fri 23rd to Fri 30th November
Rarotonga Gospel Day confirmation) Mire Tiare Flower Festival
Mon 30th to Sat 4th August Wed 28th to Tue 4th December
Te Maeva Nui Celebrations 2018 OCTOBER Netball in Paradise
Fri 5th
AUGUST School Term 3 complete – school holidays DECEMBER
Fri 4th begin Mon 3rd to Thu 6th
Constitution Day Thu 25th Motu 2 Motu – in Aitutaki
Mon 6th Aitutaki Gospel Day Thu 6th
Constitution Day public holiday Observed Fri 26th Pukapuka Gospel Day – public holiday
Wed 8th National Gospel Day – public holiday Pukapuka
Manihiki Gospel Day Mon 15th Fri 15th
School Term 4 begins School Term 4 complete – School Holidays
begin
Tue 25th
Christmas Day
Wed 26th
Boxing Day

JANUARY 2018
Tue 1st
New Year’s Day – public holiday
Wed 2nd
Day after New Year’s day – public holiday

All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism
Corporation and were correct at time of publication, but subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates
with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435

96 • ESCAPE
7
29TH JULY – 6TH AUGUST
Events That You
Shouldn’t Miss…

Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our


nation’s independence
Every year from June to August about
2,000 people on Rarotonga and on the
outer islands put their lives on hold to
prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national
Islands Tourism, will manage this big event
which has catapulted the Cook Islands on
to the international stage as a desirable
kite surfing destination. 2011’s inaugural
event generated immense support for the
association and this year marks the 8th
such competition on the stunning waters of
Aitutaki Lagoon.

20TH – 26TH SEPTEMBER


Round Rarotonga Road Race
The Round Rarotonga Road Race celebrates
its 40th Anniversary with its annual
23RD – 30TH NOVEMBER
Vaka Eiva
Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters
hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each
year for the Matson Vaka Eiva; an exciting
and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which
is now the largest sporting event in the
country.

Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has


established a reputation as a hugely
enjoyable week of racing, culture, and
festivities, and attracts crews from
throughout the world.
culture and dance festival. It is a week-long
cultural marathon held around the date weeklong event from the 20 -26 September There’s an air of festivity on the island
of August 4th, which is the birthday of the 2018 held on the beautiful tropical island of the whole week long, from the opening
Cook Islands as an independent nation. Rarotonga. The event caters for everyone ceremony, throughout the week of racing
including families, social, recreational and and social activities. The area around Trader
You may have seen cultural dance shows
competitive runners and is a fantastic Jack’s is the hangout of choice for paddlers
around the island, or perhaps in your
opportunity to combine a holiday with a and spectators throughout the week, giving
resort, but you haven’t seen anything that
once in a lifetime sporting achievement. See close views of the start and finish of the
even closely resembles the vibrancy and
Cook Islands Tourism for more details. ocean races.
passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held
in the National Stadium. This is the cultural
highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only 1ST – 3RD NOVEMBER 23RD – 30TH NOVEMBER
people who are ever disappointed are those
who miss it. Cook Islands International Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival
Raro Rugby 7’s
This happy and colourful festival features
20TH – 24TH AUGUST The Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s competitions for the best floral decorated
Tournament has become one of the most shops, schools and government buildings,
Manureva Aquafest - sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific. each one on a different day of the weeklong
International Kite Surfing Although it’s not the Wellington or Hong festivities. Locals also vie for the honour of
Competition Kong sevens, where hundreds of thousands making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland),
flock to the games in colourful eye catching best pot plant and much more.
In August some of the biggest names in kite
surfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie attire, here in paradise, the party and dress The glamorous focal point to the week is
for the top spot at the international kite up atmosphere is very much island style! undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition
surfing competition on Aitutaki. After all – playing sports and having a good which sees attractive young ladies
time is something the people of the Cook competing for this prestigious title. The first
The Cook Islands Kite Surfing Association,
Islands know how to do, and do well. appearance of the contestants is usually
in conjunction with the events team at Cook
at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the

ESCAPE • 97
first Saturday of the festival; the weeks
wraps up with a colourful float parade and
crowning of Miss Tiare on the following
Saturday.

29TH NOVEMBER
– 5TH DECEMBER
Netball in Paradise
The tournament is for UNDER 13, UNDER 15,
UNDER 17, OPEN LADIES, SOCIAL LADIES &
OPEN MIXED divisions. Netball in Paradise
2018 will run for seven days, but every
day and every night you can enjoy our
famous Cook Islands hospitality. For more
information contact DMCK at events@
dmck,co,ck.

For more information and to confirm event


dates, visitors are advised to contact the
Visitor Information Centre –
phone (682) 29435

VISITOR
RAROTONGA (HEAD OFFICE) NORTHERN EUROPE
PO Box 14, Rarotonga cookislands@global-tourism.de
Cook Islands
(682) 29435 SOUTHERN EUROPE
headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck southerneurope@cookislands.travel

INFORMATION CENTRE AITUTAKI


PO Box 3
UNITED KINGDOM
ukmanager@cookislands.travel
Aitutaki
(682) 31767 CHINA
DOWNTOWN AVARUA NEXT TO ANZ BANK tourism.officer@aitutaki.net.ck chinamanager@cookislands.travel
misepa.isamaela@cookislands.gov.ck
JAPAN
ATIU japanmanager@cookislands.travel
(682) 33435
mareta.atetu@cookislands.gov.ck

NEW ZEALAND
Studio 11, Level 3
91 St George Bay Road
Parnell, Auckland 1052
+64 (9) 366 1106
nzmanager@cookislands.travel

AUSTRALIA
Suite 129, Level 14
5 Martin Place
Sydney, NSW 2000
Australia
Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, +61 282 091 658
activities, entertainment and travel to our sister islands.
Phone or call in to see us. NORTH AMERICA
usamanager@cookislands.travel
OPEN: Monday to Friday 8am – 4pm | Saturday 10am – 1pm canadamanager@cookislands.travel
98 • ESCAPE
(682) 29435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck
GRAB A VISITOR
SIM TODAY
From our Airport Kiosk or from any of our $
49
only

Bluesky Outlets in the Cook Islands.

3GB 30 300
MIN TXT
DATA anywhere in the
world
anywhere in the
world

Your minutes & TXT can be used worldwide. 4G data is available in Rarotonga and Aitutaki only and requires a 4G capable device. Visitor SIM lasts for 15 days from activation. Once you have
used up your preloaded data, minutes and TXT you can eCharge top-up at any of our resellers and Bluesky Outlets on casual rates at 20c per MB, 20c per TXT and 99c per minute. Check out
our website for more information on Bluesky 4G mobile data network and for VISITOR SIM details at www.bluesky.co.ck. Effective June 2017.
cook
islands
black
pearls

Cooks Corner, RAROTONGA | Pacific Resort, AITUTAKI


p +682 21 902 e luke@bergmanandsons.com w www.bergmanandsons.com

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