Paper Protagonist©

Male – 001a
Man At Arms Expansion Set
Assembly Instructions

Assembly:
Please note that the instructions are listed in an order designed to fit in between certain steps referenced on the
General Assembly Instructions. Please familiarize yourself with those before starting the assembly here. If
assembling into a seat or on a mount, check the fit up prior to assembling the legs fully as some positions may
require trimming.

As an expansion set, this requires a complete set in order to be used. Any of the Male Protagonist sets will have
components necessary to make complete figures, although this is meant to complement the Man at Arms set
specifically.

Component Assembly

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Composite Bow
Fold the two halves of the bow arms together, forming a two-sided assembly. Fold the handle assembly in half,
gluing only at the tips, leaving a bowed section in the middle. Glue this to the face of the bow arms, curving the
bow arms slightly to match the curve of the handle. Make two loops from the horn reinforcements by curving
around to glue the tips together without folding. Once cured, fit the looped end around the bow arm tips. The
loop should hook at the front, with the thin glued end at the 'back' or the same side as the handle. Form the end
of the bow arm tips to the shape of the horn and glue. Form the desired 'bow' to the arms (depending on whether
it will be drawn, merely strung or unstrung and laminate with a thin layer of white glue to reinforce the shape. Add
thin thread if desired for enhanced realism.

Arrows/Quarrels
Fold and glue the two halves of the shafts panel. Once cured, carefully separate with a razor-knife each shaft
from the fold (note that the quarrel shafts are about 3/5th the length of the arrows). Fold, but do not glue the
fletchings row lengthwise. Apply glue to one inside face of the fletchings row, and affix each shaft to a fletching,
aligning with the textures. Once all shafts are attached, apply glue to the other face of the fletching and fold over.
Once cured, separate each arrow/bolt by cutting the fletchings apart halfway between each shaft.

Crossbow
Laminate the top/bottom stock component to a scrap piece of cardstock. Once cured, excise and fold the two
halves together. Excise the side-halves component and carefully apply to the sides of the top/bottom section.
Note that the bridge should align directly behind the slot on the top half of the stock. There should be a small part
of the side sections that trail underneath the bottom section. This can be strengthened if desired by laminating
this component to a scrap of paper-stock first. Fold the trigger (long metal piece) in half and glue the halves
together. Affix to the underside of the crossbow as shown. Fold the two bow arm halves together and glue; once
cured glue to the front of the crossbow (the white square will indicate the glue side center). Form the bow arms
to the desired shape and laminate with a thin layer of glue to harden the shape. Add thin thread if desired for
enhanced realism. A quarrel can also be glued on top of the crossbow if desired.

Gear/Ratchet for Crossbow

Fold the hexagonal panels into a box and glue, leaving a gap in the center where the toothed hook will go. The
free untabbed ends should be tacked against the hexagonal sides with glue. Carefully excise the hook

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components, trimming on the top (flat) end and the hook end only. Leave whitespace inside the hooks. Fold (but
do not glue) the long component, with the texture on the outside. Fold (but do not glue) the short component with
the texture on the inside. Align and glue the two hook ends of the short component with the long component
ends. Once cured, glue the remaining halves of the long component together, forming a 'Y'. Trim once cured.
Fold the arm component and glue. Fold the handle component, leaving the ends open and glue, forming a deep
'T'. Fold the 'V' strap halves and glue.

Once the desired pose is determined, fit the 'Y' hook into the gear box (hex). If posing on the crossbow, the hex
should be placed just behind the metal mechanism on the top of the crossbow. The 'Y' hooks should be over the
string. Attach the arm and handle to the side of the hex, in whatever position required for the pose. Loop the
strap around the crossbow (between the trigger and the bow) and glue to the gearbox. This may also be posed
on the belt or quiver, in which case, leave the Y hook extended and the arm hanging loosely down. The strap can
be attached to the gearbox bottom and then attached to whatever part of the figure deemed appropriate.

Quiver
Both quivers are assembled in a similar way, although one is intended for arrows and the other quarrels, they
can be interchanged reasonably easily. Roll the main part into a tube and gently form to match the shape of the
bottom of the quiver. Fold the tabs and glue. Affix the optional metal rim to the edge of the quiver. Fold the strap
to form a two-sided belt. It can be used as an alternate belt for the figurine or as a shoulder harness for posing
the quiver on the back.

Paint the inside of the quiver black or dark brown for enhanced realism.

Hafted Weapons
Begin by assembling the haft itself. A variety of stains and lengths have been provided. There are 6 different
lengths, in 0.5 meter increments (approximately 20 scale inches), chose whichever is best suited to the weapon
being assembled. Roll the haft using a thin wire as an aid and glue. Trim the length if required.

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Several copies of banded caps and leather wrappings have been provided, encircle the haft where desired with
as many as you would like. Caps are intended generally for the bottom of a hafted weapon, with wrapping panels
in the general center.

Spears: Roll spear tips into a tube, and glue, fitting the banded end over the tip of the haft. Flatten the spears
along the textured sides and trim around the blade. Apply a thin bead of glue to the edges for strength. Spear
tips, both styles, can be assembled to any length haft, making javelins, spears or light lances accordingly. In
addition, the long tip is used in the assembly of the ranseur and the halberd.

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Ranseur: Use the longest haft and make a spear using the long spear tip. Trim around the ranseur, leaving a
small bit of whitespace for folding alignment. Fold over the long spear tip, positioned close to the bottom of the
spear and glue both halves, sandwiching the spear. Trim away the excess whitespace.

Halberd: Use the second-longest haft and make a spear using the long spear tip. Trim around the halberd,
leaving a small bit of whitespace for folding alignment. Fold over the long spear tip, positioned close to the
bottom of the spear and glue both halves, sandwiching the spear. Trim away the excess whitespace.

Paper Protagonist © 2010-2011 TCF Gaming

All rights reserved. For personal use only. Not for resale.
For more information, visit www.tcfgaming.com or www.paper-protagonist.com
Norman Axe: Make a haft from the second-shortest length. Trim around the axe blade, leaving a small bit of
whitespace for folding alignment. Fold over the top of the haft, positioned close to the top of the haft and glue
both halves, sandwiching the tip. Trim away the excess whitespace.

Lochaber Axe: Make a haft from the second-shortest length. Trim around the axe blade, especially near the haft-
attachment points, leaving a small bit of whitespace for folding alignment. Fold and glue over the top of the haft,
wrapping the attachment points around the haft. The blade should extend above the top as shown below. Trim
away excess whitespace.

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For more information, visit www.tcfgaming.com or www.paper-protagonist.com
Mace: Make a haft from the shortest length. Wrap and glue the mace's metallic shaft around the top of the haft.
Fold the mace's tips in half, forming a two-sided texture. There are enough provided for six tips on each mace.
Glue the tips on the top of the metallic shaft as shown with the flat edge against the mace, in a star pattern.

Sword and Sheathe

Roll the sword blade into a tube and glue along the tab (cut a flat line across the tip of the blade). Once cured,
flatten the tube with the tips of the blade in the center of the flat section. Trim the tip 'white' margins and glue the
two tips together. Roll the grip into a tube and let cure. Glue the grip to the end of the blade. Once cure, carefully
cut and fold the crossguard over the seam between the grip and the blade. Trim and fold the pommel over the
open end of the grip. Note that if you want the sword displayed in the sheathe, do not attach the blade.

Like the sword blade, roll the sheathe into a tube and glue along the tab. Once cured, flatten along the length
and trim the tip white margins. Glue and wrap the metal collar around the end. Belt and Loop instructions can be
found below in the Final Assembly and Posing section.

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Final Assembly and Posing
Tunic Extension
Once the legs are assembled, but before any attachments such as belts are added, wrap the tunic extension
carefully around the waist, aligning it against the top of the hip. Shape the extension as needed to simulate the
drape of fabric.

Hauberk

3.1 Wrap and glue the hauberk 'skirt' around the hip, aligning the seam (and tabs) with the torso seam.
Once cured glue each of the 'skirt' petals underneath the main belt, using the thin tabs provided.
Assemble the torso sections of the hauberk, including the cap. Once cured apply glue and slip over the
miniature torso (note the separated part should be aligned to the front), aligning over the tabs of the
'skirt'. Wrap the shoulder sections over the bicep portion of the arms, aligning the 'E' arms with the

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 shoulder caps and glueing over them.

Coif
6.1 Glue the coif drape over the neck and position so that it 'caps' the chest and back. Assemble the coif
by creating a ring from the top section and fitting the cap and back sections to it.

Cloak
The Cloak is provided on two pages intended to be printed double-sided, Side A and Side B (note that the 1:35
scale also has Page 1 and Page 2 Side A/B). While the textures have been aligned to fit exactly, you may want
to test print in black and white. Note that few printers are able to print align precisely with the edges of the paper,
so some white space may be present on some of the reverse prints. Trim these away or colour to match as
desired. Note that the cloak and the hood should be separated on the mirror halves. Alternately, you can print
only one side and fold/glue the opposite half over to make a double-sided piece, although I've found this makes
the cloak too stiff to replicate fabric.

The cloak should be one of, if not the, last component attached to a figure. Plan the cloak fit in advance,
ensuring that other components will fit nicely under the cloak's drape. Work the cloak lightly in your fingers,
taking the stiffness out of the paper. Form the cloak along the shading lines, in a radial pattern, folding the top
edge over to fit the figures shoulders. Dry-fit the cloak on the figure and form as desired, trimming if necessary.
Once satisfied, glue the cloak onto the figure at the shoulders, and at points where the cloak touches other
components for stability.

Curve the top of the hood and wrap the sides to form a shell. Glue each tab on the inside of the hood and color
with paint or marker to cover the white. Drape the assembled hood over the head of the figure and glue, or
carefully fold the hood into a compressed roll and glue behind the figure's head.

Paper Protagonist © 2010-2011 TCF Gaming

All rights reserved. For personal use only. Not for resale.
For more information, visit www.tcfgaming.com or www.paper-protagonist.com