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an ~ _

World's Oceans
an introduction IDJ:he

Warld's Oceans
Seventh Edition

Keith A. Sverdrup
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee

Alyn C. Duxbury
University of Washington

Alison B. Duxbury
Seattle Community College

Boston Burr Ridge, IL Dubuque, IA Madison, WI New York San Francisco St. Louis
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 McGraw-Hill Higher Education 'iZ
A Di"ision of The McGraw-Hill Companies

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WORLD'S OCEANS, SEVENTH EDITION

Published by McGraw-Hill, a business unit of The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc., 1221 Avenue of the
Americas, New York, NY 10020. Copyright © 2003,2000, 1997 by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any
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Some ancillaries, including electronic and print components, may not be available to customers
outside the United States.

* This book is printed on recycled, acid-free paper containing 10% postconsumer waste.

International 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 VNH/VNH 098 76 543 2

Domestic 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 VNH/VNH 0 9 8 7 6 5 43

ISBN 0-07 -24 7280-4

ISBN 0-07-119489-4 (ISE)

Publisher: Margaret J. Kemp

Sponsoring editor: Thomas C. Lyon
Senior developmental editor: Donna Nemmers
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Printer: Von Hoffmann Press, Inc.

The credits section for this book begins on page 497 and is considered an extension
of the copyright page.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Sverdrup, Keith A.
An introduction to the world's oceans.-7th ed. I Keith A. Sverdrup, Alyn C. Duxbury,
Alison B. Duxbury.
p. cm.
Rev. ed. of: An introduction to the world's oceans. 6th ed. I Alyn C. Duxbury,
Alison B. Duxbury, Keith A. Sverdrup. ©2000.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0~07-24 7280-4 (acid-free paper)
1. Oceanography. I. Duxbury, Alyn c., 1932-. II. Duxbury, Alison. III. Duxbury, Alyn c.,
1932-. Introduction to the world's oceans. IV. Title.

GC11.2 .089 2003

5S1.46-dc21 2002067854
CIP

INTERNATIONAL EDITION ISBN 0-07-119489-4

Copyright © 2003. Exclusive rights by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc., for manufacture
and export. This book cannot be re-exported from the country to which it is sold by McGraw-Hill.
The International Edition is not available in North America.

www.mhhe.com
pmlogue chapter 9
The History of Oceanography 1 The Waves 247
chap1eLJ
chapter 1 0
The Water Planet 28 The Tides 277
chapter 2 chapieLlJ
Plate Tectonics 53 Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries 299
chapter 3 chap1eLJ 2
The Sea Floor Environmental Issues
and Its Sediments 98 and Concerns 335
chap1erA chap1eLJ 3
The Physical Properties The Living Ocean 357
of Water 131
chapteLJA
chapter 5 Production and Life 372
The Chemistry of Seawater 156
chapteLJ 5
chapter 6 The Plankton:
The Structure and Motion Drifters of the Open Ocean 392
of the Atmosphere 175
chapteLJ 6
chapter 7 The Nekton: Free Swimmers
Circulation and Ocean of the Sea 415
Structure 208
chapter 1 7
chapter 8 The Benthos:
The Currents 227 Dwellers of the Sea Floor 447

vi BRIEF CONTENTS \\ \\\\.111 hhc .CL1111/S \LTeI cu]'

 Preface x

Guided Tour xiv

pmJoglJe 2.6
2.7
History of the Continents 83
Research Projects and Plans 87
The History of Oceanography Box: Undersea Robotic Technology
Box: Recovery of Black Smokers
88
The Early Times 92
2 Summary
The Middle Ages 95
4
Box: Marine Archaeology 6
Voyages of Discovery
The Beginnings of Earth Science
8
10
chapter 3
The Importance of Charts
and Navigational Information 10 The Sea Floor and Its Sediments
Ocean Science Begins 13 3.1 Measuring the Depths 99
The Challenger Expedition 15 3.2 Bathymetry of the Sea Floor 101
Oceanography as Science 15 Box: Bathymetrics 108
U.S. Oceanography in the Twentieth Century 18 3.3 Sediments 110
Box: Satellite Oceanography 22 3.4 Seabed Resources 124
Oceanography of the Recent Past, Present, Summary
and the Future 128
24
Summary 26
chap1eLA
chapter 1 The Physical Properties
The Water Planet of Water
1.1 Beginnings 29 4.1 The Water Molecule 132
Box: Origin of the Oceans 32 4.2 Temperature and Heat
1.2 134
Age and Time 34 4.3 Changes of State
1.3 135
Shape of the Earth 38 4.4 Heat Capacity
1.4 136
Location Systems 38 4.5 Cohesion, Surface Tension, and Viscosity 137
1.5 Modern Navigational Techniques 42 4.6 Density
1.6 137
Earth: The Water Planet 45 4.7 Dissolving Ability
Summary
139
51 4.8 Transmission of Energy 139
Box: Acoustic Thermometry of Ocean Climate 146
4.9 Ice and Fog
chapter 2 Box: Green Icebergs
147
153
Summary 154
Plate Tectonics
2.1 Interior of the Earth 54
2.2 Lithosphere and Asthenosphere 57 chapter 5
2.3 Movement of the Continents 59
2.4
2.5
Plate Tectonics
Motion of the Plates
71 The Chemistry of Seawater
79 5.1 The pH of Seawater
Box: listening to Seafloor Spreading 157
80 5.2 Salts 158

Contents vii
 5.3 Gases
5.4 Other Substances
164
166
chaptAr 9
Box: Messages in Polar Ice 168
5.5 Practical Considerations: Salt and Water 170 The Waves
Summary 172 9.1 How a Wave Begins 248
9.2 Anatomy of a Wave 249
9.3 Wave Motion 249
chaptAr 6 9.4 Wave Speed 250
9.5 Deep-Water Waves 250
The Structure and Motion 9.6 Wave Height 252
9.7 Shallow-Water Waves 256
of the Atmosphere 9.8 The Surf Zone 260
6.1 Heating and Cooling the Earth's Surface 176 9.9 Tsunamis 262
6.2 The Atmosphere 181 Box: Tsunami Warning Systems 264
6.3 Greenhouse Gases 182 9.10 Internal Waves 266
6.4 The Role of Sulfur Compounds 186 9.11 Standing Waves 267
6.5 The Atmosphere in Motion 186 9.12 Practical Considerations: Energy from Waves 269
Box: Ship Emissions 189 Summary 271
6.6 Modifying the Wind Bands 193
Box: Clouds and Climate 194
6.7
6.8
Hurricanes
EI Nino
199
200
Going to Sea 273
6.9 Practical Considerations: Storm Tides
and Storm Surges 204
Summary 206 chaptAr 10
The Tides
chaptAr 7 10.1 Tide Patterns 278
10.2 Tide levels 278
Circulation and Ocean Structure 10.3
10.4
Tidal Currents 278
7.1 Density Structure Equilibrium Tidal Theory 279
209
7.2 10.5 Dynamic Tidal Analysis 285
Upwelling and Downwelling 212
7.3 10.6 Tidal Bores 289
The layered Oceans 213
10.7 Predicting Tides and Tidal Currents 290
Box: Arctic Ocean Studies 216
7.4 Measurement Techniques Box: Measuring Tides from Space 291
219
7.5 10.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from Tides 294
Practical Considerations: Ocean Thermal
Energy Conversion 220 Summary 296
Box: Ocean Gliders 222
Summary 224
chaptAr U
chaptAr 8 Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries
11.1 Major Zones 300
The Currents 11.2 Types of Coasts 302
8.1 Surface Currents 228 11.3 Anatomy of a Beach 309
8.2 Wind-Driven Ocean Currents 230 11.4 Beach Dynamics 310
8.3 Current Flow 232 11.5 Beach Types 314
8.4 Eddies 233 11.6 Modifying Beaches 315
8.5 Convergence and Divergence 234 Box: National Marine Sanctuaries 318
Box: Ocean Drifters 236 11.7 Estuaries 322
8.6 Changing Circulation Patterns 239 11.8 High Evaporation Rates 325
8.7 Measuring the Currents 243 Box: Rising Sea level 326
8.8 Practical Considerations: 11.9 Flushing Time 328
Energy from the Currents 245 11 .10 Practical Considerations: Case Histories 328
Summary 245 Summary 332

viii CONTENTS \\-\\\\.111 h h e.c ()In! ....

\ -(' rJ r li i'
 clill-p te r 12 15.3 Viruses 405
15.4 Classification Summary of the Plankton 405
15.5 Sampling the Plankton
Environmental Issues and Concerns Box: Extremophiles
406
12.1 Water and Sediment Quality 407
336 15.6 Practical Considerations:
12.2 Gulf of Mexico Dead Zone 339 Marine Toxins 408
12.3 Plastic Trash 341 Box: Rapid Detection
12.4 Ocean Waste Management Proposals of Algal Blooms
341 410
12.5 Oil Spills Summary
343 412
12.6 Marine Wetlands 347
Box: Spartina: Valuoble and Productive
or Invasive and Destructive? 348 clill-p te r 16
12.7 Biological Invaders 350
12.8 Overfishing and Incidental Catch
12.9 Afterthoughts
352
354
The Nekton: Free Swimmers
Summary 355 of the Sea
16.1 Mammals 416
chapter 13 16.2
Box: Whale Falls
Marine Birds
422
427
Box: The Sea Bear
The Living Ocean 16.3 Marine Reptiles
428
13.1 Ocean Biology 431
358 16.4 Squid
13.2 433
Groups of Organisms 358 16.5 Fish
13.3 434
Environmental Zones 360 16.6 Classification Summary of the Nekton
13.4 437
Facts of Ocean Life 360 16.7 Practical Considerations:
13.5 Bottom Environments Commercial Fisheries
367 438
13.6 Close Associations Summary
367 444
13.7 Barriers and Boundaries 368
13.8 Practical Considerations:
Modification and Mitigation 368 clill-p te r 17
Box: Biodiversity in the Oceans 369
Summary 370
The Benthos: Dwellers
chapter 14 of the Sea Floor
17.1 Algae and Plants 448
17.2 Animals
Production and Life 17.3 Classification Summary of the Benthos
451
14.1 Primary Production 460
373 Box: Deep-Sea Ice Worms 462
14.2 Controls on Primary Production 17.4
374 Tropical Coral Reefs 462
14.3 Global Primary Productivity 378 17.5 High-Energy Environments
14.4 467
Measuring Primary Productivity 379 17.6 Deep-Ocean Chemosynthetic Communities
14.5 Total Production 468
381 17.7 Sampling the Benthos
Box: The Antarctic Food Web 469
384 17.8 Practical Considerations:
14.6 Practical Considerations: Human Concerns Harvesting the Benthos
387 469
Box: CaICOFI-Fifty Years of Coastal Ocean Data 388 Box: Genetic Monipulation of Fish
Summary and Shellfish 475
389
Summary 476

chapter 15 Appendix A Scientific (or Exponential) Notation 478

Appendix B SI Units
The Plankton: Appendix C Equations and Quantitative Relationships
479
482
Drifters of the Open Ocean Glossary
485
15.1 Kinds of Plankton Credits
393 497
15.2 Bacteria 404 Index
501

Contents ix