Chevrolet Suburban 2000-2002

Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes

Function Vehicle Color Location
Start: YELLOW (# AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #1: PINK (# AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS*
Ignition #2: WHITE (# AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS(ECM)
Ignition #3: N/A
Accessory: ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/AC)
Brake Light: WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach Signal: VIOLET/WHITE AT PLUG ABOVE VALVE COVER ON DR. SIDE
Parking Lights: BROWN (+) # PIN PLUG IN FUSE PANEL OR AT SWTICH
Headlights: YELLOW (+) AT HEALIGHT SWITCH
Diesel Glow
Plug:
Clutch Bypass
Wire:
Notes: *This Vehicle Is Equipped With GM's PASSLOCK II Anti-Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass
Module part # 2x402 where X can be any number.
Chevrolet Suburban 2000-2002
Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function Vehicle Color Location
Constant +12 RED (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Volts:
OEM Alarm GREEN IN FLAT CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL
Disarm:
Dome WHITE AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **
Lights/Superv:
OEM Horn: BLACK (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Power Lock: LT. BLUE # PIN PLUG AT FUSE PANEL ON DR. SIDE
Power Unlock: WHITE DRIVER'S KICK PANEL IN BODY CAVITY ***
Trunk Release: N/A
Alarm Input WHITE AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **
Wire:
** Convenience Center Is Locate Under Driver's Dash Near Fire Wall (Listen for dome light relay).
Notes:
*** See Note #202 - Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

I just did an '02 last week. It was actually a pretty easy install. A couple of tips for you...you can get to the
lock/unlock, parking lights, and alarm disarm at the bcm which is right under the steering column. This will
keep you from having to dig for them in the driver's kick panel and at the headlight switch. The lock/unlock
are in the brown plug, the parking lights are in the light blue plug, and the disarm wire is in the purple plug.
Wiring colors are all the same as mentioned in the diagram above. Make sure that you get the white ignition
2 wire hooked up. If you don't, major transmission problems will follow. Also, the best place I found to put
the hood switch is on the brace on the driver's side that goes from the firewall over to the fender. Good luck,
let me know if you have any questions!

The remote starter unit will have a 2nd IGN output (-) or (+) depending on the system that you have. Most
will be (-) that will trigger a relay to engage the 2nd IGN to power on during remote start. Use this diagram
to trigger the 2md IGN with a (-) output from the alarm:
http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/N2P.jpg
If you do not have a designated (-) or (+) trigger output for the 2nd IGN wire, use this diagram :
http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/2nd_ignition_relay.jpg

Try using the white wire at the ECM. The ECM (Engine Control Module) is located near the battery, down
low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in
the connector labeled red. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the red
connector.

Passlock 1/II:

GM Passlock I & II Information

Please study the following information carefully WHEN INSTALLING REMOTE START
systems on a 1996 or later GM car or truck.

Introduced in 1996, GM has changed the VATS anti theft system to Pass-Lock system.
This is a similar device to the VATS system, in that there is a resistor present during the
start cycle. However, in the PASSLOCK system, the resistor has been placed inside the
ignition switch, instead of the key. See the GM V.A.T.S page for more information.

To remotely start a car with this feature, you must bypass the PASSLOCK system. There
are two methods of doing so.. The first, is to permanently bypass this system. This is the
easiest method for accomplishing your task. The second way, is to temporarily bypass the
PASSLOCK, by introducing relays into the system, which retain all of the features of the
system, while allowing your remotes start module to bypass it automatically during a
remote start cycle.

Vehicles effected
(1996 and newer): N & J body cars, such as
Pontiac Sunfire and GrandAm Passlock-1
Chevrolet Cavalier Passlock-1
Buick Skylark Passlock-1
Oldsmobile Achieva Passlock-1

1997 or newer
Chevrolet Malibu Passlock-II
Oldsmobile Cutlass Passlock-II

1998 or newer
All trucks , SUVs and Vans Passlock-II

It is important to pay special attention to the fact that there are many different ways of
achieving the same goal. There are actually 2 different Passlock-II systems. On the next
 page, there are tests to establish
which type of passlock-II your car
has.

Relays shown are standard

automotive 5 pin spdt relays,
available from IEI.
A multi meter is required to
measure the resistance values.
Accuracy is important within 5%.

Once the value of the resistor is

measured, a resistor of the same
value +/-5% must be purchased
(Radio Shack, for example). You
can also use a Potentiometer (POT), which can be adjusted to the same value of the
resistor in the ignition switch.

Passlock-I bypass procedure....

1: Remove the top and bottom shrouds from the steering column.

2: Find the 3 wire ribbon cable, coming from the ignition switch, containing White,
Black, Yellow (Sometimes White, Black, Black). These are THIN wires.

3: Locate the Black 6 position connector on the LEFT side of the steering column, right
above the ignition switch position. There is a BLACK (Thin) wire in this connector,
called "Bulb Test", which shows Ground with ignition in the Off position, OPEN in the
"Run" position, and GROUND in the "Crank" position.

4: Turn the ignition switch to the "Run" position. Do not crank the car.

5: Cut the Thin Yellow wire and strip both ends.

6: Without cutting the Black wire, expose some of the copper.

7: Using the ohmmeter, measure from the Yellow wire (the end coming from the ignition
switch), to the exposed Black wire and record the value. Measure more than once to
assure you have the right value.
 8: Acquire the same size resistor
and 3 relays, and perform the
connections shown in the diagram
below.

PASSLOCK-II bypass procedure

There are 2 types of Passlock-II

systems. To determine which
system you have, follow these
instructions;

1: Locate two wires, which are

THIN and are in the main ignition harness.. Orange/Black (or Black) and Yellow.

2: Cut the Yellow wire, and strip back some of the insulation from the Orange/Black (Or
Black) wires.

3: Turn the ignition to the "Run" position ( don't crank the starter). Measure and record
the value measured from the KEY SIDE of the Yellow wire, to the Black/Orange wire.

4: Turn the key to the "Crank" position and release. Now read the value again.

5: If the value changed, follow "Method#1". If the value stayed the same, follow
"Method#2".

These diagrams are from our friends at ALARMTEK AUTO ALARM

Bypass Passlock II all the time:

Recently my 99 Grand Am SE (3400 Auto) has been having a problem where the car will not start. It
cranks over but it gets no fuel and the security light comes on for 10 minutes. If I try again after the
light has gone out, it usually starts. Otherwise I wait again. It has always started eventually. From
reading posts here and elsewhere, I determined that the Passlock II module in the ignition keyswitch
is probably failing, leading the car to believe it is being stolen, activating the anti theft. There are
four solutions to this that I am aware of:
1. New ignition keyswitch (expensive and most seem to fail again)
2. Cut the small yellow wire (shown below) while the engine is running (results in the security light
being on all the time and may lead to the car not starting if the battery ever needs to be replaced)
3. Bypass it using an aftermarket module designed for a remote starter
4. Trick the car into thinking that that the passlock module in the ignition is sending the proper
signal using a resistor (I chose to go this way, as shown below)

***Warning: I am not an expert anything, let alone an expert mechanic. Follow my example below at
your own risk***

1. Remove the plastic trim from around the radio and heater controls. Do this by pulling gently on it,
it is held in place by metal tabs. After it is loose, disconnect the wires to the lighter socket. Then
remove the the traction control and emergency flasher light buttons from the trim by unscrewing the
three screws that attach them to the back of the trim. You can now set the trim aside and let the loose
wires hang out of the way.

2. Remove the radio by unscrewing the three screws that hold it in. You can use a towel to support
the radio against the shifter so that you don't have to disconnect it. If you disconnect the wires to the
radio, you risk triggering the radio's anti theft. You can safely disconnect the antenna wire so that it
can be positioned out of the way more easily.

3. Remove the ignition keyswitch. Unscrew the two screws just above and below the ignition. I believe
they are 10mm. Reach in through the hole where the radio was and wiggle the ignition out of its place
and into the hole where the radio was as best as you can. As you can see in the pics later, it won't
come out very far. Maybe someone else can post regarding how to get it to come out further. I didn't
want to disconnect anything. The goal is to get to the wires related to the Passlock II.

4. Find the three Passlock II wires. These wires come out of the top of the ignition. They are in a
black anti friction sheath. They are small wires, maybe 20 or 22 gauge. Maneuver the bundled wires
where you can access them through the hole the radio usually lives in.

5. Remove the sheath. I used a razor blade. An X-Acto knife would be ideal. Very carefully cut the
sheath back without nicking the wires. You don't need to cut it off, just separate it so that you can
pull it back. You should be able to see three wires:
black, yellow, white. You will be working with the black and yellow wires ONLY.

6. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

7. Cut the yellow wire. Leave enough coming out of the ignition that you can get to it later or reattach
it if you ever want to. Leave enough coming from the car that you can solder to it. Strip back both
ends of the yellow wire about 1/4".

8. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation off of the black wire. Do this in a place where you will be able to
solder to it later. Again, use the razor. Take small bites out of it, like you were peeling a banana.
DON'T CUT THE BLACK WIRE.

9. Make sure that none of the bare wires are touching each other or bare metal and RECONNECT
THE BATTERY.

10. Following the multimeter's instructions, connect one lead to the black wire. Connect the other
lead to the half of the yellow wire that is attached to the ignition (not the half going to the car). It will
be much easier if you have alligator clip leads for your meter. Insert your key and turn it to run but
do not start the car. I did not get any reading at this point. Try to start the car. It should turn over
and run for a second but then die. Read the value on the meter. I got 2450 every time I tried it. Your
car will likely have a different value, so you have to measure it.

11. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY and the meter. Make sure the wires are not touching.

12. Use a combination of resistors to come up with a value as close to the value you read as possible. I
used a 2700 and a 27000 in parallel to get 2400 or so. I have read online that anything within 50
either way is ok, but I don't know. There are some useful calculators online to help you figure out
which resistors to use. YOU DO NOT ADD THE VALUES OF THE RESISTORS TO GET THE
FINAL VALUE.

13. Twist the ends of the resistors together so that they are connected in parallel. Use test leads (wires
with alligator clamps on each end) to connect one end of the resistors to the black wire and the other
end to the yellow wire that goes to the car (not the yellow wire to the ignition keyswitch). Make sure
that none of the wires is touching another wire or bare metal.

14. Reconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. It should start normally. If it doesn't, I would
guess that you resistors are not of the proper values. Mine started, so I didn't get into
troubleshooting.

15. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY and the test leads.

16. Solder 2" or so of 20 gauge (or so) wire onto either end of your resistors. Make sure the joints are
very secure. If a resistor or wire becomes disconnected YOUR CAR WILL NOT START.

17. Tape off the yellow wire coming from the keyswitch. This wire is no longer used.

18. Slide shrink tubing over the yellow wire coming from the car. Solder one of the wires attached to
the resistors to the yellow wire coming from the car. Slide the shrink tube over the joint and shrink
it.

19. Solder the other wire that is attached to the resistors to the stripped area of the black wire. Using
good quality electrical tape (3M), tape this joint so that it is insulated and so that the tape supports
the solder joint.

20. Reconnect the battery and try to start the car. It should start.

21. Slide the anti friction sheath back down over the wires if possible. Otherwise you can use
electrical tape to stand in for the sheath. Move the ignition keyswitch back into place, positioning the
new wires so that they don't touch anything that will cut them.

22. Put everything else back together.

I didn't take pictures of every step, but I will try to post what I have. If you have any experience
bypassing the Passlock, I would like to hear about it. So far its been a day and the fix is still working.
If my car starts for a month straight without making me wait 10 minutes, I'll consider it a success.