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Key words: printed fabrics, camouflage fabrics, military clothing, protective clothing, physical-
mechanical properties, physiological properties.
advanced materials and technical textiles variables, such as the skin and tempera-
for military use. The main functional ture, and is a function of environmental
criterion which fabrics for military pur- variables such as temperature, humidity
poses should meet include the physical and wind speed, the activity level of the
and camouflage requirements, resistance individual, the properties of clothing in
to various environmental conditions, wa- terms of water tightness, and the water
ter, wind, fire, heat, specific battlefield vapour permeability of the fabric. Protec-
threats, and economic conditions. Except tive clothing of low resistance to water
for making military clothing for different vapour permeability can cause heat stress
conditions and uses, camouflage fabrics and the occurrence of large amounts of
are used for tactical and ballistic protec- perspiration of the wearer, thus hindering
tive vests, helmet protection, protection visual, cognitive, physical and psycho-
of military equipment in the field and logical characteristics [3]. Soldier equip-
complete camouflage of military facili- ment is very complex and quite difficult,
ties. Hence, these textiles are often treated especially if bullet-proof vests are made
for resistance to UV, water, fire, heat and with built-in metal plates. Accordingly,
wind, and it is very important that they wearing such equipment requires the
still remain relatively lightweight [1, 2]. good fitness and physical endurance of
soldiers. Basic ergonomic principles re-
A human being cannot successfully func- quire that the burden is as close as possi-
tion without a full sense of comfort. The ble to the body, thus preserving the wear-
comfort properties of materials are large- er’s balance and stability. This means that
ly reflected in the psychological factors the soldier suit and vests or sewn fabric
that may cause psychological discom- carry almost all the soldier equipment,
fort that interferes with the motivation meaning that it has to be functionally per-
and readiness to perform high risk tasks. fect in seamed and seamless places. Such
Therefore requirements for comfort and reasoning has resulted in the concept of
flexibility are made on these fabrics a soldier suit, vest and belt for carrying
which will allow the good mobility and loads, which allows soldier mobility,
n Introduction psychological stability of soldiers. Thus with easier access to certain parts of the
Technical textiles provide invaluable it is desirable that the fabrics are made equipment and reducing own contours.
properties for military purposes, which from natural fibres that are lightweight,
are necessary for movement, survival and stable, durable and resistant to external The aim of the camouflage properties of
struggle in a hostile environment. Sol- conditions. Since it is difficult to make a military camouflage fabrics, which will
diers must dress in such a way that they fabric that would simultaneously meet all be dealt with in this paper, is to break the
feel comfortable and can also survive; these requirements, they are made from silhouette of a human body or military
it is therefore of paramount importance a combination of natural and synthetic facility with printed samples of the col-
that the clothing and associated equip- fibres, making it possible to fulfill almost ours of their direct environment in order
ment are lightweight, compact, durable, all requirements that are made of them. to achieve imperceptibility [4].
stable and of high performance. Require-
ments placed on textile material protect- One of the most prominent features of Furthermore materials for military cloth-
ing individuals in life critical situations comfort for military clothing is the prop- ing have many other protective proper-
in terms of protection from various envi- erty of thermal comfort, i.e. comfort or ties, which are achieved by various proc-
ronmental conditions and combat threats discomfort associated with how hot or esses in chemical finishing, i.e. certain
result in the significant investment of fi- cold one feels. Thermal comfort is close- substances are applied to the surface of
nancial resources in the development of ly related to changes in physiological the textile fabric, where they are retained,
82 Kovacevic S, Gudlin Schwarz I, Durasevic V. Analysis of Printed Fabrics for Military Camouflage Clothing.
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012; 20, 3(92): 82-86.
Table 1. Size recipes. Most fabrics used for this purpose were Table 2. Sample weaves.
woven in simple and basic weaves: plain
Sample Size recipes
weave, twill, satin, rips, Panama, and Sample Weave
500 l water + 75 l condensate
17 kg INEX 773C (PVAL) combinations thereof. A sample of fabric
Sample A
34 kg FIBROSINT C75 (synthetic A was woven in a combination of plain
size)
2 kg AVIROL 308AS (antistatic
weave and rep weave, sample B - in
agents, softeners) 5-end satin, and sample C was woven in
Sample A
500 l water + 75 l condensate twill 2/2 (Table 2). Fabric samples were
46 kg INEX 746H (PVAL)
35 kg FIBROSINT C75 (synthetic
woven on a cam air-jet weaving machine.
Sample B
size)
2 kg AVIROL 308AS (antistatic Plain + rep
After weaving, the fabric was dyed with
agents, softeners)
500 l water + 75 l condensate
vat dyes. After the dyeing process, the
25 kg FIBROSINT C75 fabrics were finished with a variety of
Sample C (synthetic size) protective finishing treatments: water-
2 kg AVIROL 308AS (antistatic Sample B
agents, softeners) proofness, water repellency, oil repel-
lency, resistance to infrared light, UV
radiation, heat, fire, soiling, anti-static 5-end satin
not penetrating into the yarn. Therefore, treatment, etc. To test the yarn and fab-
continuous use leads to the abrasion of ric samples, standardised methods were
textile materials, thus destroying the used. Determination of yarn linear den-
Sample C
surface layer, which causes the gradual sity was tested according to HRN ISO
disappearance of the coated film, further 2060:2003, and yarn hairiness was tested
leading to the loss of properties required on the basis of registering fibres protrud- Twill 2/2
for the application of such a fabric in ac- ing from the yarn structure according to
tual environmental conditions [5, 6]. ASTM D 5674-01 on a Zweigle G 565
tester. Testing of yarn unevenness was ing properties (breaking force, breaking
Each military nation adapts the look of performed using the capacitance method elongation, work to rupture and yarn ten-
on a Keisokki instrument according to sile strength) of the yarn before and after
camouflage materials (colours and pat-
ISO 16549:2004, while yarn twist was sizing were tested according to Standard
terns) to their application needs and envi-
tested on a MesdanLab Twist tester ac- ISO 2062 on a Textechno Statimat M ten-
ronmental conditions in which the fabric cording to Standard ISO 17202. Break- sile tester (Table 3).
will be used (forest, desert, ...) in order to
achieve adequate camouflage properties. Table 3. Yarn parameters tested before and after sizing; Tt - linear density of yarn, tex
Camouflage properties must also cover a Tm - yarn twist, twists/m, H - yarn hairiness, number of fibres longer than 1mm protruding
wide range of the electromagnetic spec- from the yarn surface, U – unevenness, %, Fr - breaking force of raw yarn, εr - elongation
at break of raw yarn, %, Wr - work to rupture of raw yarn, cN×cm, σr - breaking strength
trum, including ultraviolet (< 400 nm) of raw yarn, cN/tex, Fs - breaking force of sized yarn, cN, εs - elongation at break of sized
and the visible spectrum (400 - 800 nm). yarn, %, Ws – work to rupture of sized yarn, cN×cm, σs - breaking strength of sized yarn,
cN/tex, X - mean, CV - coefficient of variation, %.
/ / /
higher machine efficiency and to im- 1603.76 1162.22 1221.09
Ws, cN×cm X
prove fabric quality, sizing was carried CV 44.50 32.03 41.14
out according to defined conditions and σs, cN/tex X 22.82 21.54 24.12
CV 5.66 7.04 5.08
recipes for the samples (Table 1).
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) 83
Table 4. Fabric parameters tested before and after chemical finishing treatment; Frf - Also, one of the most important indica-
breaking force of raw fabric, N, εrf - elongation at break of raw fabric, %, w - fabric width, tors of textile material quality and the
cm, m - fabric mass per unit area, g/m2, d - fabric density, threads/1cm, t - fabric thickness,
mm, Fff - breaking force of finished fabric, N, εff - elongation at break of finished fabric, %, value of the finished product is its use
X - mean value, CV - coefficient of variation, %. durability. Therefore abrasion resistance
is very important for textile material used
Sample A Sample B Sample C
Fabric for military purposes [7]. To test the abra-
Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft
sion resistance of the fabrics, the Martin-
W, cm 159 159 149
dale method was used in accordance with
m, g/m2 220 280 250
Standard ISO 12947-3:1998 - Determi-
t, mm 0.436 0.557 0.439
d, threads/cm 36.0 20.7 46.7 29.1 36.2 21.0
nation of mass loss was used. Testing
Raw
689.73 451.11 828.66 750.21 784.53 496.87 was done according to predetermined
Frf, N X
CV 3.58 2.17 1.57 1.96 5.45 4.56 intervals to determine the mass loss or
X 39.67 24.83 33.50 30.00 20.33 16.50 in six intervals (10,000, 20,000, 30,000,
εrf, %
CV 0.73 1.16 3.95 1.67 6.19 3.03 40,000, 50,000 and 60,000 cycles of
X 681.37 441.30 777.99 845.01 774.73 500.14 abrasion), respectively. Mass losses were
Fff, N
Finished
CV 3.55 2.22 2.55 5.00 2.19 1.96 calculated for all samples according to
εff, % X 43.17 22.50 32.33 35.67 18.67 17.00 the six intervals, shown in Figure 1.
CV 5.47 5.23 6.25 5.67 5.58 2.94
The quality of military camouflage fabric
Table 5. Material resistance to heat and air permeability and bursting strength. depends on the colour fastness to various
influences to which this material is ex-
Sample A Sample B Sample C
Fabric property posed. In addition to fastness to light, the
CV, % CV, % CV, %
X X X heat, water, and colour fastness to abra-
Resistance to heat permeability
- Ret, m2KW-1
0.0185 3.9 0.0127 1.3 0.0203 2.0 sion is also very important. When evalu-
Resistance to air permeability, mm/s 22.244 4.2 10.220 4.6 36.972 6.3
ating colour fastness to abrasion, it is
Ball burst strength, N 910.0 9.4 1596.6 13.2 773.0 12.1
about assessing a change in colour shade
that is different after use in compari-
son to the original one. An assessment
was made with the instrumental method
35
(which is very simple and objective, and
the results are reliable) using a remission
30 spectrophotometer, Datacolour Spectra-
flash PLUS-CT SF 600, the results of
25 which are shown in the CIELab system
(Figure 2) [8].
20
Pm (%)
Pm, %
15
n Discussion
10
Camouflage fabrics, with their multiple-
use in clothing, camouflaging soldiers
5
and military equipment, are one of the
0 main components under war conditions.
A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 The production and structural parameters
Sample
sam ple of these fabrics, their physical and me-
chanical properties, dyeing by means of
the printing technique and chemical fin-
Figure 1. Presentation of mass loss (Pm) according to 6 intervals for samples tested;
where: A – sample A, B – sample B, C – sample C; 1 – 10,000, 2 – 20,000, 3 – 30,000, 4 – ishing affect the fulfillment of the numer-
40,000, 5 – 50,000, 6 - 60,000 abrasion cycles. ous and high demands placed on them.
For a textile material which is used for
The testing of basic fabric parameters One of the most important properties of military purposes, its resistance to the va-
was also performed. The fabric density technical textiles for military purposes is riety of conditions to which the material
or number of threads per length unit was material resistance to heat permeability is exposed is important.
determined according to Standard EN and the possibility of the free passage of
water vapour (perspiration) through the In the weaving process, especially on air-
1049-2:1993, and determination of the
material. Modern laboratory methods jet looms, there are a few problems that
mass per unit area was performed ac-
allow us to measure the permeability of affect the entire process of fabric manu-
cording to Standard ISO 3801:1977. The facturing. These problems are caused by
heat and water vapour through the mate-
breaking force and breaking elongation rial and the material resistance to water the interaction of weaving conditions and
of the fabrics before and after treatment vapour using a so called hot plate. The yarn properties. The shed formation, cy-
was tested on a Textechno Statimat M test was carried out in accordance with clic strain, and abrasion of threads with
tensile tester according to Standard ISO Standard ISO 11092:1993. The results of elements of the loom cause thread break-
13934-1:1999 (Table 4). these tests are shown in Table 5. age. In order to solve these problems, the
84 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92)
yarn used as warp yarn has to be sized,
b*
resulting in enhanced physical and me- 16 0 65 69 60
1
ily. Moreover the fabric is woven in satin 14 3
0
4
3
2
63
5 5 5
weave with greater thread floating (than 2
4
6 2
1
3 6 62 4
3
65 5
4
54
12
in a plain, rep or twill weave), allowing 4 5 6
61
2
3
2
greater heat permeability. Resistance to 10
1
64 1 50
5
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92) 85
ever, the best results of abrasion resist- gives an advantage to sample A because it Different agents allowing air and sweat
ance in terms of the smallest mass loss was constructed in a combination of plain permeability, but disabling water and
and latest occurrence of holes are shown and rep weave, where plain weave is char- water vapour are applied to these fabrics.
by sample A, but only at interval 6 or af- acterised by its tight and dense structure The utility value of camouflage fabrics
ter 60,000 abrasion cycles. and by the most frequent changes in the depends on the fabric’s physical and me-
warp and weft interlacing points. Abra- chanical properties. Mass loss or abra-
Many parameters affect the abrasion re- sion greatly affects the quality of the dyed sion resistance is usually the weakest link
sistance of materials: raw material com- sample, evaluated using the colour fast- in the use of these clothing fabrics. The
position, yarn fineness and strength, fabric ness grade. The impact of sample abrasion first fabric deformations are reflected by
density and the weave in which the fabric on colour shades present on the samples changing the colour shades. The CIELab
is woven. The samples of yarns tested con- is shown in the CIELab system, being system is the most suitable system for
sisted of a blend of natural and synthetic the most suitable for numerical evalua- numerical evaluation of colours. The first
fibres (cotton and PA 6.6, and PES in the tion of colours. In the coordinate system deformations occur in the limb bends.
ratio of 50/50) in order to satisfy a wide a*/b*, the position of colours and satura- Today, the fabrics are usually laminated
range of requirements made on such ma- tion (chromacity) of an individual shade with nanopur coating on the reverse side
terials. The samples of yarns tested con- at each lightness level (L*) is obtained. of the fabric, improving the physical-me-
sisted of a blend of natural and synthetic The remoter the position of the measured
chanical and physiological properties of
fibres (cotton and PA 6.6, and PES in the sample in the CIEL*a*b* diagram from
composite materials.
ratio of 50/50) in order to satisfythea wide the central point of aromaticity, the more
range of requirements placed on such ma- saturated or purer the colour is. It follows
terials, from comfort and flexibility, which from the above that according to the dia- Acknowledgment
can be achieved using natural fibres, to grams shown in Figure 2, changes in the The results presented come from the scien-
durability and resistance, which can be saturation and lightness of a certain colour tific project: Advanced technical textiles and
obtained using synthetic fibres. Although shade caused by the number of abrasion processes, coded as 117-0000000-1376,
PA 6.6 and PES are very similar in their cycles can be easily observed. In all sam- conducted with the support of the Ministry
properties, there is still a difference which of Science, Education and Sports of the
ples tested, the unabraded samples were
(as seen from the test results) significantly Republic of Croatia. We would like to thank
the remotest from the point of aromaticity, the textile company Čateks d.d. Čakovec for
affects the properties of the yarns and fin- meaning that here the colour shades are making the samples and allowing us to do
ished fabrics. Standard strength values of the most saturated, as could be supposed. tests in their laboratories.
these fibres range from 25 - 55 cN/tex for By means of the abrasion procedure and a
PES and from 30 - 68 cN/tex for PA 6.6, gradual increase in the number of abrasion
this difference being also reflected in the cycleces (10,000, 20,000, ...), the values
References
strength of the yarn (Table 3). This dif- of the graphs approach the point of aro- 1. Horvat-Varga S. Utjecaj tehnoloških
ference can be associated with the fabric maticity, which means that the chromatic- parametara u procesu visokofrekvent-
resistance to abrasion, where sample C, ity (saturation by a specific shade) gradu- nog spajanja odjeće, Magistarski rad,
composed of a blend of cotton/PES, re- ally decreases, while the shade lightness Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet. Sveučilišta
corded the highest mass losses and great- u Zagrebu, 2009.
increases. All these changes significantly 2. Tehnički podaci tekstilne tvornice Čateks
est material destruction (Figure 1). In affect the quality of the fabrics in terms of d.d., Čakovec
connection with this the phenomenon, be- colour fastness. 3. Mijović B, Skenderi Z, Salopek I. Com-
sides the raw material composition in the
parison of Subjective and Objective
yarn, several other construction fabric pa- Measurement of Sweat Transfer Rate.
rameters are involved. Samples A and B, n Conclusions Collegium antropologicum 2009; 33, 2:
which are composed of yarns of an equal The following conclusions can be drawn 315-320.
blend of cotton/PA 6.6, despite the differ- 4. Kübra Kaynak H, Topalbekiroğlu M. In-
on the basis of the tests performed and by
ences in the linear density of the yarn, fab- fluence of fabric pattern on the abrasion
comparing the results presented:
ric density, mass per unit area and weave resistance property of woven fabrics. Fi-
The fabrics that are used for camouflage
(Tables 3 and 4), give very similar results bres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2008;
and the like are usually woven on cam 16,1(66): 54-56.
for abrasion resistance compared to sam-
looms, whereby simple basic weaves 5. Kovačević S, Pruss A. Utjecaj dinamičkih
ple C (Figure 1), which can be explained
by the raw material composition of the are used. Fabrics are often woven from naprezanja u tkanju na smanjenje
yarns used for weaving the fabrics or by cotton yarns or in a blend with synthetic prekidne sile i otpornosti na habvanje
fibres. These are often plied yarns woven osnovinih niti. Tekstil 2000; 49, 9: 473-
the use of the stronger PA 6.6. On the 477.
other hand, the differences in abrasion re- with a relatively great density. In such
6. Kovačević S, Strmečki V. Nove teh-
sistance and mass loss between samples A a way a strong and compact fabric with
nologije i novi proizvodi u području tkan-
and B are explained with other structural a uniform surface suitable for applying ja. Tekstil 2000; 49, 1: 21-28.
parameters. Thus, despite a higher fabric dyes and other agents to achieve better 7. Friškovec M, Gabrijelčič H. Develop-
density, higher mass per unit area, but also properties is produced. The warp is sized ment of a procedure for camouflage pat-
higher strength of sample B, it had lower because the yarn in the fabric should tern design. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern
abrasion resistance, higher mass loss, and maintain the properties it possessed be- Europe 2010; 18,4(81): 68-76.
an earlier occurrence of destruction after a fore weaving. 8. Parac-Osterman Đ, Joanelli M.
Računalno određivanje razlike u boji i
smaller number of abrasion cycles than in
tolerancije u tekstilu. Tekstil.
the case of sample A. The reason for this Physiological properties of these fabrics
phenomenon can be sought in the weave are important, especially if used for field
in which these fabrics were woven, which clothing in various weather conditions. Received 19.04.2011 Reviewed 06.10.2011
86 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 3 (92)