F L Y I N G H I G H
Why every man
needs K-pop
Get off your PSY horse
and expand your
musical horizons
Somewhere between Beyoncé’s
Coachella domination and
Kendrick Lamar’s Pulitzer, it’s
become clear that pop music
has never been more credible.
The line separating pop and
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES
prestige is blurring, and artists
once designated for pre-teen
girls are being lauded by the
critical elite. With that, the scene
is set for a K-pop reckoning.
And 2017 was something of a
marquee year for the genre. More
MUSIC
than 12,000 people flocked to the
London Korean Festival, while boy
band BTS stormed the stage at
the American Music Awards.
Kanye West, Anderson .Paak and
Desiigner have all lent their vocal
talents to K-pop tracks, while
streetwear brands such as Juun.J
are using K-pop influences to get
Seoul Fashion Week mentioned
alongside London and Milan.
PSY dragged the genre into
public consciousness with 2012’s
Gangnam Style, but there’s much
more to K-pop than half-hearted
horse impressions. “Addictive
melodies, eye-catching
choreography and flawless
production mean foreigners
can enjoy K-pop regardless of
language,” says a Korean Cultural
Centre UK spokesperson.
The most pervasive tracks
boast overly caffeinated beats
capable of shimmying over the
language barrier and into your
ARTISTS ONCE
DESIGNATED FOR
PRE-TEEN GIRLS
ARE BEING
LAUDED BY THE
CRITICAL ELITE
W W W . S H O R T L I S T . C O M
memory, but artists such
as DEAN and Samuel Seo hint
at the genre’s greater potential.
Mingling jazz, soul and R&B,
they offer a mature contrast with
K-pop’s saccharine tendencies.
So just as Guus Hiddink’s
3-4-3 altered perceptions of
South Korea in the 2002 Fifa
World Cup, a dose of genuinely
good K-pop might do the same
for your tired old Spotify playlist.
Lucas Oakeley
Catch the 2018 K-Music Showcase
in Rich Mix, London on 10 May;
richmix.org.uk
5
STYLE STYLE

I am SPA TIPS FOR MEN look at making the most of it

by maximising the use of the
D E BU N K I N G T H E C O M P L E X facilities, both pre- and post-

Spa-tacus WO R L D O F S PA ET I Q U ET T E

Just because the social taboo

What happens if you’ve never been to a spa has been broken, it doesn’t
mean that men are at ease
before? And what happens if you like it? in the confusing rule-centric
Lucas Oakeley finds out world of health spas. Here
are Esquire’s spa tips for men,
written by other men:
1. ARRIVE IN ADVANCE
Going to a spa is not like
setting is a bit like having a shower in the getting your haircut, you can’t
middle of the rainforest…café. show up to the appointment
bang on time and expect it to
Checking back in with Richard, it is time for
start. You’ve got to arrive, fill
him to get to work. Subsequently swallowing out the consultancy forms, de-
my anxiety (and a complimentary fruit skewer) robe and (at some point) relax.
I am ushered into the soothing ambience of the The entire point of booking
massage room. The lights are dimmed, candles into a spa is to have someone
are lit, the sultry soundtrack of acoustic jazz massage you into a state of
relaxation. Plan your time in
tinkles through the speakers. advance and you will reap the
Unsure of correct protocol, I eventually benefits.
strip myself down and clamber onto the
comfy massage bed. Eschewing any awkward 2. DOUBLE WRAP
preamble, Richard immediately proceeded to ‘Spa pants’ – or ‘manties’ if
knead my all the tension I had into oblivion. you will – are about as useful
The whole experience is an unrelenting as they are comfortable. Once
assault of relaxation, with the only transitory you have worked out which
way they go on (a task in itself),
distraction occurring when an acoustic cover
you will realize that they offer
of a popular chart hit from the 1990s starts you practically no modesty
playing over the speakers. whatsoever, so our advice is
While laying there wondering what Eagle to wear two pairs. Donning a
The view from Eye Cherry is up to these day, it dawns on me second pair over the top will
The Burj Club‘s that the concept of time really doesn’t seem to get rid of the transparency
relaxation lounge issue and the additional
matter in a spa. It almost ceases to exist.
support will make you feel more
treatment. The sheer number
of 5-star spas in the Gulf
mean that the oneupmanship
is relentless. Saunas, steam
rooms, plunge pools, barbers,
thalassic pools, green tea,
beach access and relaxation
rooms with fantastic views,
all come included in the fee.
After all, if you’re beyond the
moat, you may as well enjoy the
castle, right?
4. SPEAK YOUR MIND
Be honest with the masseuse
about the pressure you can
handle. Remember, they are
not going to judge you (or care)
about how hard or soft you
want the pressure, but you’re
paying so let them know. If
you’re fighting back the tears as
the large Vietnamese masseuse
proceeds to beat seven shades
out of you, it’s probably worth
mentioning your discomfort.
5. SLEEPING ON THE JOB
Falling asleep during a massage
is totally fine. You’ve probably
gone to a spa because it’s
been a taxing week/month
and you’re in need to unwind,
if that involves nodding off
during a backrub then so be it.
Although, let it be said, drooling
while you’re lying face-down is
super awks.
6. TIPPING

F
Even when you’re hot, sweaty, and not really comfortable, therefore helping If you’re happy with your
ull disclosure, I have never been to a spa before. In fact, I’d always thought that a sauna was simply a convenient sure what you’re meant to be doing, there’s respite to be found in you relax — which is kind of the treatment then feel free to
the closest I’ve ever been is Spa Francorchamps, the F1 location for Italian mobsters to catch-up on business. In stark the aimlessness of your situation. You won’t find yourself fretting whole point. tip your masseuse, although,
racetrack in Belgium. It wasn’t very relaxing. contrast to my stereotyped preconceptions, the sauna at The about your job, your weekend plans, or Eagle Eye Cherry’s rather than inviting them into
3. THE FACILITIES the locker room where you can
The Spa at The Burj Club in Dubai is an actual spa. Burj Club was pleasantly devoid of any potential gangsters. It is whereabouts. The only thing you’ll be slightly concerned about is
Generally speaking, spas are fetch your wallet, the better
It offers all the actual spa things you could imagine, like actually rather nice. whether those radicals have been neutralised. And I think there’s not cheap. So if you’re going way is to ask for their name and
body treatments, facials, steam rooms and sauna located within Complete with a big wooden spoon and a bucket full of water something to be said about that simplicity. to be dropping Dhs500 on leave the tip with the reception
its Burj Khalifa premises. Overlooking The Dubai Fountain, the that masochists – and mob bosses keen to sweat out a potential The Burj Club, Burj Khalifa, Downtown Dubai. theburjclub.com a backrub, you may as well desk.
men’s only facility offers a range of treatments, which they claim rat in their racket – can use to make the hot room even hotter, the
are ‘guaranteed to transport you into a state of pristine relaxation’ sauna is ideal for letting your worries seep out from every pore of
and also do rather unnerving sounding things like ‘neutralise free your body. Due to an intoxicating mix of youthful inexperience Vitamin cleansing
radicals’. I wasn’t aware that my body even had any ‘free radicals’. and what I can only assume was mild heat exhaustion, I get a bit RAISE THE BAR bar; AED76 by
Baxter of California;
I find myself in the locker room wearing nothing but a towel over enthusiastic with the spoon Fresh super soaps are
mrporter.com
and a bathrobe – I have no idea how long I need to wait, or even “I ALWAYS and end up nearly turning myself cleaning up
if I’m in the right place. Awkward. Thankfully, the calming THOUGHT A into a human dim-sum.
presence of my spa spirit guide, Richard, comes to my rescue. SAUNA WAS In desperate need to cool Forget shower gels, Exfoliating
Exfoliating body soap,
First up: the steam room. For the uninitiated, it’s like sitting in WHERE MOB off, I jump into one of the fancy scrubs and cleanser – a seaweed block, AED95 by
a car that’s been left out in the sun all day. Naked. With no AC. BOSSES WENT showers that offer settings such new batch of elegant, AED86, by Kiehl’s;
Haeckels; kiehls.com
After 15 minutes with nothing but an LED light dotted ceiling TO SWEAT OUT as ‘Niagara rain’ and ‘Cold mist’. heritage-style soaps haeckels.co.uk
for company, I not only feel cleansed, but I am at such a loose A POTENTIAL With bright lights and poorly are on the rise. Kuro soap, AED120 Kaffir lime and peppermint solid
end that I begin to questioning my very existence on this planet. RAT IN THEIR recorded parrot squawks, having by Sort of Coal; shop- shampoo, AED28 by All Natural
Worried the heat is getting to me, I duck out. RACKET” a shower using the ‘Niagara rain’ beast.com Soap Co; allnaturalsoap.co.uk

66 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M O CTO B E R 20 1 7 O CTO B E R 20 1 7 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M 67
 MEET THE CHARITY THAT’S
MAKING A ‘RADICAL’
DIFFERENCE TO THE LIVES
OF PALESTINE’S CHILDREN
BY LU CAS OA K E L E Y

PHOTO: GETT Y IMAGES

98 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M O CTO B E R 20 1 7 O CTO B E R 20 1 7 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M 99
A
The founder of SkatePal,
Charlie Davis, is dedicated
to developing a skate
culture in Palestine
A T R I C K L E O F B LO O D RU N S D OW N FA H M I
S AWA L M A’ S L E G . He waves away a friend who has rushed
over to help him up off the ground. It hurts, but he’s smiling.
“I nearly landed it that time!” he says with a laugh…
Unlike most regular 14-year-olds, Sawalma — who hails
from the Palestinian town of Asira Al-Shamaliya — has already
encountered more of the world’s hardships than most will
witness in their entire lives. However, just like most 14-year-
olds, Sawalma is far more interested in eking out as much fun
from life as possible. A grazed knee is hardly going to stop him.
Situations like Sawalma’s certainly aren’t unique, with more
than half of all Palestinians living in the occupied territories
being under the age of 21. In spite of this young and doubtlessly
restless population, the cultural, educational, and sporting
opportunities in the region remain severely limited.
A combination of that void of opportunity with the
overwhelming desire that all children have for a sense of
individuality is what inspired the creation of SkatePal —
a charity focused on spreading the love of skateboarding
throughout Palestine, hence Skate-Pal. As cases like Sawalma’s
prove, that love has become infectious, with children all over
the country finding that skating offers a freedom they would
otherwise never have experienced. Sawalma certainly agrees.
“My life changed when the skate park was built in Asira. It’s
nice for all the children, because now they can play somewhere
safe that isn’t in the street.”
Having been officially recognised as a charity in 2014,
SkatePal, the brain-child of skateboarder Charlie Davis,
has grown over the last few years. Now the fastest growing
skateboarding community in Palestine, SkatePal’s onus is on
building communal areas to teach children and teens how to
skateboard at various sites throughout the beautiful country.
Skateboarding might not necessarily be the first thing
that comes to mind when you think of the region, but people
like Davis are keen to change that perception; providing the
youth of the West Bank with a welcome distraction from the
oft-politicized situation that surrounds them. Skateboarding
PHOTOS: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
The SkatePal-built
parks have become
a focal point for
communities
100 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M O CTO B E R 20 1 7
certainly helped Aram Sabbah, 19, a youth from the city of
Ramallah who can make a legitimate claim to be one of the very
first people to skate in Palestine. “I used to protest and throw
stones,” explains Sabbah, “But after I started skating, it became
my life. I decided wasn’t going to do dangerous stuff. I could just
get on my board and forget everything.”
Volunteering as an English teacher at a Palestinian youth
centre in 2006, Davis was well acquainted with the region’s
more dangerous stuff. Never once allowing his circumstances
to alter his radical (in a different sense) attitude to life, Davis
would often go out on his skateboard out in his spare time. Not
exactly a common sight on the streets of Jenin, he was amazed
to find himself the centre of attention, surrounded by fascinated
children who had never seen a skateboard before – let alone
seen a man perform an ollie on one.
Inspired by the success of similar organizations like
‘Skateistan’ – an award-winning not-for-profit organization
that started in Afghanistan and has since spread its influence to
South Africa and Cambodia – Davis’s idea for SkatePal was born
from the sheer enthusiasm exhibited by the region’s youth.
“I’ve been skating for 15 years, and I have met some of my
best friends through skateboarding,” says Davis, who is spending
Fahim Sawalma, 14,
the majority of his existing free time planning the build of a new has become obessed
with skating since the
skate park in the village of Jayyous. “You can travel anywhere arrival of SkatePal
in the world, and if you see another skater you instantly have a
connection of shared experience with them in spite of whatever
other cultural differences there might be between you. That’s
something I really wanted to bring to Palestine and I knew that
if I were to come back with more boards, it would take off.”
And take off it has. What started in 2013 as a relatively
small project initiated by Davis, his brother, and two helpful
volunteers – in which the rag-tag quartet built a wooden mini-
ramp and hosted a summer skate camp at the local centre – has
since grown into a fully-fledged charity with around 70 total
volunteers. But why has skateboarding in particular seen such
a success? Well, according to Davis it’s all do with the inclusive
ethos around skating. “Unlike many other sports, skateboarding
is actually non-hierarchical. It dissolves barriers between class,
race, age, and gender. But most importantly of all, it’s fun!”
O CTO B E R 20 1 7 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M 101
It’s that wholesome sense of fun that
truly drives the heart of SkatePal;
it doesn’t matter whether you’re a
beginner or a professional, a child or an
adult, everyone is able to take part and
everyone is bound to get a scratch or two.
Both his knees now sufficiently grazed,
nothing appears to halt Sawalma’s grip-
tape encased labour of love. A perplexed
crowd even begins to gather to watch the
boy with the strange wooden board on
wheels continue to make the same mistake
over, and over, and over again…
Volunteering in the region for over
seven years before he established
SkatePal, Davis already had a vast
knowledge of the country, the culture,
and the language before he began his gnarly endeavour. “I
had thought at the start that there might have been a backlash
from some of the older, more conservative members of the
community, but skateboarding has actually been received
extremely well. It is now one of the few activities that boys and
girls can participate in together.” In spite of his achievements
both on and across the board, it hasn’t always been smooth
sailing, or smooth skating to be exact, for Davis and his charity.
“One of the biggest challenges we face is importing
skateboards in to Palestine. It’s one of the necessary steps we
need to take so that the skateboard scene can continue to grow
on its own, but in order for that to happen it has to pass through
two sets of customs, which can take a very long time and can
often be very expensive. But, like all the other issues we have
faced, it’s usually just a matter of patience and persistence!”
Volunteers such as Léo Gorman, 21, know just how satisfying
this patience and persistence can be. Having previously helped
with the construction of the Asira al Shamaliya park in 2015,
Gorman described the build as the “best project” he’s ever
worked on. “It was a fantastic opportunity to experience
a culture that I had no connection to before. The Palestinian
people in particular were especially welcoming and made
immense efforts to help us feel a part of the community.”
A committed member of the SkatePal community, Gorman has
since helped organize his own fundraising events to aid the
charity and spread Davis’ skate ramp mission around the globe.
The continued efforts of individuals like Gorman accentuate
the potential of skateboarding as a world-wide support network.
Proving there’s always a lesson to be learnt from simple acts of
kindness. It’s the modest altruism of one person helping another
The skate parks are
built by a collective
of volunteers, NGOs
and local councils
102 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M O CTO B E R 20 1 7
The atmosphere
created in the parks is
“IN SKATING YOU WILL FALL DOWN
like a family, minus the
embarassing parents
A HUNDRED TIMES, BUT YOU WILL
EVENTUALLY MASTER THE TRICK”
to stay upright on a skateboard that
makes the sport so meaningful to anyone
who has ever found themselves in a
difficult situation or in need of a foster
family on wheels.
The atmosphere amongst the team at
SkatePal really is like a family minus the
embarrassing parents. The fact that many
of the volunteers foster such a powerful
emotional connection to their students is
also promising news. Particularly when
taking into consideration that many of
the charity’s larger projects — like the
aforementioned Jayyous skate park,
created in collaboration with local non-
profit group SkateQilya — rely on the
blood, sweat, and tail-grabs of dedicated
and experienced volunteers like Gorman.
After all, as Davis lets us know,
building a skate park isn’t exactly a
walk in one. “Once we secure a piece
of land on which to build we have to
begin advertising for volunteers with skate park construction and you can tell that he’s an attentive father. In saying that, You may not be a fan of skateboarding, but Davis’s hard-work
experience to join us. Then, after the designs have all been he’s not the sort of dad who’ll embarrass you with table-top provides an ample reminder that even such a small a change,
drawn up, a team of around 15 of us spend about eight weeks dancing or a loud and problematic view on Brexit. Davis is like the introduction of what is essentially a piece of wood
building the skate park using all local materials, working the kind of dad who’ll teach you how to kick-flip before you with four wheels on it, can make a big difference to someone’s
alongside local NGOs and the council.” can walk. But for good reason. “One of the most important life. “Our end goal in Palestine is to create a self-sustainable
Davis truly embodies the skater spirit, having continued lessons skateboarding has taught me is perseverance. If there’s skateboard scene not reliant on outside assistance. To make
to work part-time jobs in order to help run the organization a particular trick that you want to learn it’s inevitable that you this happen we’re working with as many local organisations as
alongside fellow director Theo Krish. SkatePal is Davis’ baby will fall over hundreds of times trying to master it. And you’ll be possible so that when the time comes there will be other people
falling over like that for a month, a year, for as long as it takes! working with skateboarding in the country who can take the
But I think that experience of persistence, and that drive to keep lead from us. Of course we’ll still continue to visit and see our
on going when you are aiming for challenging goals, teaches you friends and encourage as many people as possible to come and
a lot about self-belief and determination.” skate here, in Palestine.”
It’s that determination which has allowed SkatePal to grow A slight shimmy to the left followed by a quick snap to the right
in such a short period of time. But for Davis it’s simply not about and Sawalma, much to his own disbelief, finally lands his trick.
the numbers. “The most satisfying thing for me has been to see “Yes!” he shouts, arms raised in triumph towards what’s now a
the kids skating, and to see in their eyes the same excitement for bemused crowd of onlookers. Most of them left hours ago along with
skating that I remember when I first started. It’s great to be able the sun, but a few stragglers are still present to witness Fahmi’s
to introduce people to something which I have been thankful personal victory. Fahmi walks home glowing in a mixture of pride
for all my life, and especially to see them take to it so quickly!” and sweat. The bystanders may think Fahmi is a little bit mad, and
Like Davis’s own world-view, the aims of SkatePal remain more than in need of a good shower, but they’re also certain that
refreshingly down-to-earth. “Our focus is purely on having fun there’s got to be something pretty special about that strange wooden
and skateboarding. We always stay apolitical and areligious, and board with wheels to keep one boy enthralled for so many hours.
concentrate instead on what we can do through skating.” SkatePal is proof of that.
O CTO B E R 20 1 7 E S Q U I R E M E .C O M 103
The first
in Cornwall, that’s perhaps a
more realistic promise than the
ones made by celebrity chefs

Outlaw
with dozens of outlets around
the world. He also cites the
presence of Biggs and McArthur
as his eyes and ears in the
Emirate as a big factor in his
CAN MICHELIN- quest to maintain the standards
APPROVED CHEF of his UK outlets.
NATHAN OUTLAW Those standards are
FINALLY GIVE THE impeccable, as the two Michelin
BURJ AL ARAB THE stars attest, but customers
RESTAURANT IT might be surprised by a style
DESERVES? that might at first seem at odds
BY LUCAS OAKELEY with the over-the-top luxury of

D
escribing Nathan
Outlaw as a ‘fish
out of water’ might
be an obvious
description for the
seafood specialist, as he patiently
waits in the lavish Burj Al Arab
lobby. Obvious, maybe. Apt?
Certainly.
The 38-year-old British chef,
whose eponymous restaurant in
the English town of Port Isaac in
Cornwall boasts an impressive
two Michelin stars, is the first
to admit he’s a man more suited to the rugged Cornish coastside
rather than the ‘seven-star’ treatment and heat of the Dubai
desert, yet the unlikely partnership has started off well.
With a steadily growing reputation in the UK, Outlaw’s latest
calling involves the rejuvenation of the Burj Al Arab’s resident
seafood restaurant, Al Mahara. Now renamed Nathan Outlaw At
Al Mahara, the easily-sunburnt yet affable Brit is keen to bring
his name, ethos and philosophy regarding quality fresh, local
produce to the Middle East. “Every time I come over I’m going
to try and get out there with a few fisherman and attempt to
integrate what they have to offer into the menu,” he says. Which,
he admits, is something he hasn’t heard of any other chefs in the
region doing.
This focus on locally sourced fish isn’t the only thing Outlaw
is bringing to Dubai. Joining him in the revamped restaurant,
which is a centre-piece of the Burj’s recent North Deck
expansion, are head chef Pete Biggs and general manager Sharon
McArthur, two of Nathan’s most trusted colleagues who have
previously worked with him at both his Cornwall and London
branches. There really is a familial sense of loyalty to everything
Outlaw does, with his own dad still working in the UK capital
outlet’s pastry section.
Even so, he’ll have to overcome the understandable wariness
towards celebrity chefs who stamp their name on a restaurant
over here and then leave it to simmer all by itself, a cash-grab that
many others have done in the region. Outlaw assures us that this
won’t be the case, promising to visit every six or seven weeks in
order to make sure that things are going swimmingly. Because
he only has the two restuarants, along with a gastro pub also
Burj Al Arab. Outlaw’s signature
style is delicious food without
any unnecessary pomp and
circumstance. In his own words,
he’s “quite put-off by serious
‘hush-hush’ dining rooms,” so
this isn’t the experience he’ll
be offering, saying he prefers to
let the fresh ingredients do the
talking. He also assures us that
‘deconstructed’ is not a word
that we’ll find on his menu.
‘Lobster’, on the other hand
“I’m going to is a word that will feature. As
get out there are ‘turbot’, ‘brill’, and ‘oysters’,
with a few all of which will be served in a variety
fisherman of styles rarely seen in the region.
and integrate Eschewing the traditional ‘starter,
what they main course, dessert’ archetype, the
have to offer” menu will be split into four separate
sections, each offering an array of
options that are refreshingly faff-
free. Simple dishes like cured monkfish and roasted scallops are
designed to allow the fresh line-caught fish and seafood to be the
real stars of the show. It’s no-frills-all-gills dining, in essence.
For a man who names his restaurants after himself, Outlaw is
surprisingly humble about his growing success. He’s more than
happy to attribute his good fortune to his “excellent staff and
the enduring bravery of local fisherman,” and seems not to covet
attention. That said, he looks like he’d be more than a match for
any other fiery personalities in a kitchen, which brings to mind
another UK chef with a restaurant just up the road, Gordon
Ramsay. Who would win in a fight? “We’re probably both about
the same height so it’d be close,” he muses as a wry smile crosses
his face and his mind wanders to what we can only assume is a
boxing ring in the midst of a bustling kitchen. “I’m a lover not a
fighter, though, so I would never instigate a fight. But if he ever
did have a crack – well, I used to do a bit of boxing when I was
younger, so I certainly can look after myself.”
Whether he’s a lover, fighter, or merely a pleasant family man
who just so happens to be a world-class chef, we can’t wait to see
whether he can bring his signature style to the Burj Al Arab and
finally put it where it belongs, on Dubai’s culinary radar.
Jumeirah.com/Burj-Al-Arab

2 ESQUIRE J U N E 20 1 6
 FOOD M A H B

GARDEN OF PLENTY
T H E N E W P E RU V I A N P L AC E T H AT’S
D E F I N I T E LY A G O O D I D E A

We always have time for innovative ideas,

hence why the Canvas initiative run by
Marriott hotels is something we cannot
praise enough. The idea is to take spaces
that aren’t working and give them over to
young, ideas-driven entrepreneurs who can
come up with something a bit more cutting-
edge to give the space a new lease of life.
At the JW Marriott Marquis in Dubai,
one of these Canvas projects is Garden.
Replacing the easily-forgotten Levantine
restaurant Nawwara, Garden is a vibrant
Peruvian restaurant with a young clientele,
that features, colourful, modern-Peruvian art
works and hanging plants that circle a water-
feature centrepiece.

Crusts on
As we perused a menu compiled by
Peruvian head chef, Edgar Hurtado, formerly
of The Act, we sampled a couple of Garden’s
THE FOUR SEASONS ABU DHABI MEANS BUSINESS signature Pisco cocktails (it seemed rude not
to), small sharing plates began to colonise
Ever since its pre-summer opening, both light, healthy dishes such as our table. A ceviche dish comprising of
the UAE capital’s new Four Seasons red quinoa and watercress salad, as Corvina, leche de tigre, red onions, chulpi
corn and crispy calamari, created a festival of
has been making some serious waves. well as heartier ones – New York
contrasting textures and flavours. Tiraditos,
It helps, of course, that its Al Maryah steak served with red chicory and causas, skewered langostine and everyone’s
Island location makes it prime-placed hollandaise sauce, anyone? – for those favourite health-food-du-jour, quinoa with
to take advantage of Abu Dhabi’s who take their midday dining a little asparagus and black truffle, soon followed
working crowd, who in-turn are bit more seriously. the impressive start. 
Considering the name of the restaurant,
prime-placed to take advantage of the The fact that this speedy meeting-
our ordering may have ventured a little too
business lunch at its restaurant, Crust. orientated meal will set you back far into the seafood direction – with squid ink
The sleek, sun-filled, waterfront a mere Dhs55, is a rather sound risotto, scallops, and excellent calamari – but
spot makes an impressive venue for a indicator that Crust means business. we did our due diligence, sampling a Canilla
quick bite, guaranteeing to have you Crust, Four Seasons Abu Dhabi. de cordero (lamb shank) and even some
Lomo saltado (stir fried beef), before tackling
on your way in 45-minutes. Carefully Weekdays, 12pm to 3.30pm. Dhs55.
a creamy sponge cake with ‘tres leches’
thought through, the menu offers fourseasons.com/abudhabi sauce and ice cream.
While creative dishes and supercharged
fresh produce continues to prolong Peruvian
cuisine’s moment in the spotlight, the
ROLL WITH IT O K KU H E L PS S H A R P E N YO U R SU S H I S K I L LS decision to transform a tepid Levantine
restaurant into a vibrant social space a short
Truth be told, we can’t get enough sushi. Seriously, we didn’t think it
was possible, but we’ve even started carrying around emergency tubes hop from Dubai’s Downtown and Business
of wasabi, just in case. So the news that one of our favourite sushi Bay areas, is justification that the Marriott’s
restaurants, Okku, has started offering a sushi making masterclass went Canvas initiative is very much a good idea.
down quicker than a portion of soy-dunked nigiri.
Led by the restaurant’s award-winning chefs, the Dhs350 tutorials
can be organised for you and your mates from 5pm to 7pm daily (except
Friday and Sunday), teaching you all there is to know about the art of
sushi making, its history and the the techniques of preparing sashimi,
makes and nigiri. Okku.com

BREAKFAST IN BED
If you’re not a breakfast-in-bed kinda guy, then we
suggest you put this magazine down right now, go sit in
the corner and think about your life choices. The rest of
us can revel in the news that everyone’s new favourite
home-delivery company, Deliveroo, has started offering
breakfast to your door. What’s that? Getting to spend
those precious extra minutes in bed while someone else
cooks your eggs? Awesome.
Details: deliveroo.ae

S E P T E M B E R 20 1 6 ESQUIRE 3

WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN WE SLEEP?
BY LU CAS OA K E L EY
M
ost of us know
that sleep is
good for us,
whether we
get enough
of it or not. But what actually
happens to our body during
this time?
Here’s what we know.
The entire process occurs
over four stages and, just
to complicate matters, all
of these stages happen in
cycles — usually four or five
per night. So sleep cycle apps
attempt to estimate how
many cycles you’ve been
through in order to wake you
up during the lightest phase
of sleep.
A typical cycle starts with
the non-rapid eye movement
phase (NREM). There are
three major stages of NREM
before deep rest. The first one
contributes to between five
and 10 percent of an adult’s
total sleep experience, where
your brain is still conscious,
though you slowly start to
feel more relaxed. Try to
watch someone nodding
off. If they’re twitching and
jerking, they’re in this stage.
And incidentally, the more
you think about trying to get
to sleep, the longer you will
remain in this zone.
Stage two, which makes up
45 to 55 percent of the total, is
where you move completely
into sleep paralysis. Muscular
movement decreases, and
your conscious awareness
of the external environment
disappears. Dreaming is still
very rare, however, and you
can easily be awakened. In
fact, some scientists estimate
138 ESQUIRE S E P T E M B E R 20 1 6
T H I S WAY O U T
that the average person
wakes up between five and
15 times every hour when
shifting from one stage of
sleep to the next. You simply
don’t notice it because it
happens so quickly.
Next up is stage three, also
known as slow-wave sleep,
contributing to between 15
and 25 percent of your total.
This is where you become
far less responsive to the
surrounding environment
and your body no longer
produces any reactions. This
deep sleep is considered to
be the most restful, but it’s
not all roses and rainbows:
this is also where things such
as night terrors, sleepwalking,
and somniloquy (sleep-
talking) occur. So if you’ve
ever admitted your deepest,
darkest secrets out loud
in the middle of the night,
blame stage three of the
NREM cycle.
The fourth and final stage
is known as REM (rapid-eye-
movement sleep) and it takes
approximately an hour-and-
a-half for your brain to get
into this phase. This is where
most of your dreams will
occur, despite only making
1.
SLEEPING IN ART
1. Salvador Dali, “Le Sommeil”, 1937 2. Frederic Lord Leighton, “Flaming June”, 1895 3. John Fuseli, “The Nightmare”, 1781
up a miniscule proportion
of your sleep. It’s also the
point where things go a little
haywire, as your eyes begin
to rapidly move behind your
eyelids, hence the name.
Most of your muscles become
paralysed, but your heart
rate, breathing and body
temperature all become less
regulated. Brain waves can
rise to levels equivalent to
those of waking, allowing
your most vivid dreams to
be projected.
Studies have shown the
body restores itself most
efficiently during REM,
hence proper rest is so
important to aspects such
as muscular growth and
recovery following exercise.
Sleep causes the secretion
of HGH, a hormone that
“The most fascinating
thing of all about
sleep? Just how little
we actually know
about what goes on
when we’re resting”
promotes the growth,
maintenance and repair of
muscles and bones.
The flipside is that sleep
deprivation negatively
affects the immune system,
as the body’s level of
disease-fighting agents rises
significantly during sleep
and drop substantially when
awake. The production of
white blood cells, which are
necessary in forming our
body’s defence system, also
2.
increase during sleep.
The recommended
amount of sleep is somewhere
between seven and nine
hours, but it hasn’t always
been this way. Some nomadic
societies exhibit far more
disjointed routines, sleeping
at all times of the day and
night for shorter periods,
depending on the habits of
the animals they’re hunting.
Patterns have also
changed significantly since
the introduction of artificial
light in the mid-1800s, due
to our body’s circadian clock
being profoundly sensitive
to changes in light. People
without access to artificial
light often go to sleep far
sooner after the sun has set,
so it’s no wonder that the
sleeping patterns of pre-
industrial times are vastly
different to those seen today.
In fact, evidence suggests
we used to spread out our
night’s sleep over two shorter
periods, beginning the night
with a period of sleep of four
hours or so, following it with
a state of wakefulness for the
next three, and then sleeping
through until morning.
But the most fascinating
thing of all about sleep is
just how little we really
know about it. To this day
we’ve failed to work out the
purpose of dreaming, despite
hypotheses from great minds
like Sigmund Freud’s. And
maybe it’s okay that our
dreams remain elusive and
just out of reach.
3.
 WO R L D O F PA I N
T H E SAS M A N
FROM HIS
GRUELLING
SAS TRAINING
TO THE
FALKLANDS
WAR, ARMY
VETERAN RUSTY FIRMIN
HAS FORGOTTEN MORE
ABOUT PAIN THAN MOST
OF US WILL EVER KNOW
I’ve been in many dangerous
situations in my 27 years in the
British Army. But by far the most
painful experience was SAS
selection: four weeks, day after
day, of walking up and down
hills in the Brecon Beacons at
the peak of summer.
The terrain was rough and the
heat was intense. Every single
day men fell by the wayside.
It was the kit that got them.
Forty miles a day with a 40lb
bergen, rifle and water on your
back is, in a word, agony.
I’d spend my free time bursting
blisters. The ones on my feet
hurt, but not as much as those
on my back, where the bergen
had rubbed the skin off.
You have to train your mind to
override pain. To put it into that
place where one foot follows the
other until you’re told to stop –
whether you like it or not.
Then we were off to the jungle
in Belize. Jungle training was
even harder. It rains 12 hours
a day. You’re getting bitten to
death by mosquitoes; every now
and then you’d slip down a ditch
and smash your knee on a rock.
If it’s not broken, you carry on.  was the waiting for someone
On my final exercise, I sat
on a hornet’s nest. Suddenly
I was being hammered by
a swarm of furious hornets.
My instructor gave me an
antihistamine and asked if
I wanted to go on. “It’s the final
f*cking exercise,” I said. “Of
course I want to go on.”
3 2 W W W . S H O R T L I S T . C O M
Faces of pain
A STUDY OF DUDES GETTING THEIR PUMP ON
AND FEELING THE BURN
My body was telling me,
“C’mon mate. Pack this in.” You
Bao-Khang Luu, 39 Travis Wood, 34
can understand why only 10 per
“Being able to move “I enjoy pain. Pain is just a
cent actually pass selection. It’s
furniture or carry groceries journey. It’s all about going
designed to wear you down.
makes the pain worth it… through that intense pain
When I finally passed, I had most of the time. to get that sweet release
my first shower in a month. It’s addictive.” of endorphins.”
I looked down at all my cuts
and bruises and I thought,
“I really enjoyed that. I’ve
achieved something huge.”
There’s no sympathy in the SAS
– none wanted and none given.
If someone hurts themselves
you take the p*ss.
A serious injury is different.
In Ireland in the Seventies, Ralph Mascarenhas, 27 Rhys Gruffydd, 36
people were being blown up. “Yeah, it’s painful. But I enjoy “I suffer from constant pain
You end up picking up bits it and once you adapt to an in my lower back, elbow and
and pieces. There’s nothing exercise, the pain stops. shoulder. Pain is something
funny about that. Then you go searching for you put up with when you’re
WORDS: MATT BLAKE INTERVIEWS: LUCAS OAKELEY THANKS TO PHYSICAL CULTURE GYM IN PUTNEY FOR LETTING US SHOOT THEIR MUSCULAR PATRONS
Pain is never going to disappear that feeling again.” chasing the big numbers.”
from this life. You fall over a log
and break your leg, you’ve got
pain. You crash a car, you’ve got
pain. You get shot or blown
up… it all hurts. Then there’s
emotional and mental pain. 
Waiting for orders was as
painful as anything physical. 
Like practising to hit mainland
Argentina during the Falklands
War, knowing it was a one-way Pablo Schmidt, 34 Simon Carter-Graham, 29
mission. Its code name was “Pain? No, it’s not a pain. “You’ve got to go through
Operation Mikado, we called It’s a pleasure.” pain if you want to grow and
it Operation Certain Death.  I think that’s a perfect
metaphor for dealing with
How can you crash two C-130 any hardship in life.”
military transport planes into
an airfield swarming with
Argentinian troops, kill as many
as you can, then escape through
the jungle, on foot? The pain
to make a decision. Then it was
cancelled. That hurt.
Pain can change your life.
But without it, I wouldn’t be
speaking to you right now. Dominic Gray, 23 Allister Day, 31
“It’s got to hurt if you want to “It’s short-term pain but
The Regiment: 15 Years In The SAS get good at lifting heavy sh*t long-term reward. You feel
is out now (Osprey, £8.99); off the floor. It makes my pain all through the body
rusty-firmin.com head feel like it’s going to but it’s over quickly. The
explode. But it feels good.” adrenaline is addictive.”

MEATOPIA
 1 August-2 September;
3 includes live (presumably cheesy) music
Tobacco Dock, London
WHAT IS IT: Meatopia isn’t all about
the meat. Be it from land, sea, bone
or, er, hop, this (mostly) carnivorous
carnival is a celebration of the very
best in taste and provenance.
THE LINE-UP: You can’t spend every
waking moment of the weekend
stuffing your face, so take part in one
of Meatopia’s workshops or work off
those meat sweats in front of the live
bands and headline DJ sets.
FOOD & DRINK: If last year’s line-
up including Yotam Ottolenghi,
Richard H Turner and Nathan
Outlaw is anything to go by, this is a
weekender you won’t want to miss.
From £23.85; meatopia.co.uk
LONDON CRAFT BEER
FESTIVAL
3-5 August;
Tobacco Dock, London
WHAT IS IT: Does what it says on the tin.
London Craft Beer Festival is back for its sixth
year, taking over Tobacco Dock from 3 to 5
August. This hop-heavy festival contains more
than 60 international brewers pouring out a
selection of over 300 different beers to keep
you cool in the summer sun.
THE LINE-UP: Thirsty festivalgoers will also
be treated to an impressive musical line-up,
including DJ sets from Two Door Cinema Club,
Huey Morgan, Toddla T, Everything Everything,
Greg Wilson, The Heatwave, Trojan Sound
System and Hip-hop Karaoke. What more could
you possibly want? Nothing, that’s what.
FOOD & DRINK: Helping to soak up at least
some of that alcohol is a range of eating options,
with pop-up kitchens from the likes of Hoppers,
Luca and Big Apple Hot Dog, all providing the
perfect accompaniment to your pint. Even more
tasty food pop-ups are set to be announced,
so make sure to follow the good folks at the
London Craft Beer Festival on Facebook and
Twitter for updates on who else might be
making an appearance.
From £46.50; londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk
LONDON CHEESE
PROJECT
26-28 May; The Geffrye
Museum, Shoreditch, London
WHAT IS IT: The London Cheese
Project is a joyous three-day
celebration of all things fromage, turning
the grounds of The Geffrye Museum into
a veritable garden of Edam. Definitely not
one for the lactose intolerant.
THE LINE-UP: Non-edible entertainment
and a stacked programme of free talks on
topics ranging from ‘urban cheesemaking’
with Mexican queso specialists Gringa
Dairy to the ‘art of cheddar’ with Devon
cheeseheads Quickes.
FOOD & DRINK: The very best of the
nation’s ’mongers, merchants, and artisan
cheese producers will all be around to
make their presence smelt. A host of
London’s favourite street-food traders,
committed to using artisan produce, have
also joined this year’s line-up, with Mother
Flipper, Butchies and The Cheese Truck all
serving one-off takes on their usual menus.
It’s a guaranteed gouda time. Sorry.
From £5; londoncheeseproject.com
BEAVERTOWN
EXTRAVAGANZA
7 -8 September; Printworks,
Canada Water, London
WHAT IS IT: Following the success
of last summer, the festival is happy
(or is that hoppy?) to announce
that this time the party will be
bigger and even better. With 90
different international breweries
pulling pints over the weekend, last
year’s 77-strong line-up pales in
comparison.
THE LINE-UP: Whether you’re
a committed crafter or a novice
looking to learn more, don’t miss the
opportunity to quench your thirst –
and your curiosity – at one of Good
Beer Hunting’s beer-illiant talks.
FOOD & DRINK: You could make a
beeline for homegrown favourites
like Pressure Drop, Kernel or Brew
By Numbers. But with so many to
choose from, this is the place to sip,
glug or chug something new. Take
care, though – make sure you soak it
all up with a visit to one (or more) of
Kerb’s 18 food trucks.
£65; beavertownbrewery.co.uk
51
LOCAL HEROES
S U M MER T ERRACE S
THE PRINCE
1 14 Lillie Road, SW6 1TT
The Prince has undergone
a royal makeover to become one of
London’s must-visit summer spots.
The venue is now a true food and
drink mecca, providing tasty treats
from the kitchens of street food
specialists Patty & Bun, Begging Bowl
Canteen, Coqfighter, and Foley’s.
theprincelondon.com
THE ESCAPIST
Ben Pugh on ditching the city to set up ethical online grocery company Farmdrop
I
GREW UP IN London, near Battersea Park,
but at weekends would escape the city and
go to visit my grandma in Wiltshire. She
lived right next door to a dairy farm and I
would often spend my time helping the local
farmer milk his cows.
After leaving university, I worked in the
boating industry, delivering yachts across
the oceans in New Zealand, the
South Pacific and South Africa;
I’d fish off the back of them to
sustain myself through those
long journeys.
But despite my love for the
outdoors, I ended up working
in the City as a broker covering
retail stocks at various banks. I
14
RUMPUS
2 ROOM
20 Upper Ground, SE1 9PD
This bright, buzzing and beautiful
rooftop bar at Mondrian on the South
Bank, is close enough to the river for
you to enjoy that traditional sense of
maritime spirit, but not close enough
that you’ll actually get wet. Head
on up for British-American-inspired
serves like ‘Thanks a Tot!’and New
England lobster rolls.
rumpusroomlondon.com
also worked on the stock flotation for Ocado
back in 2010. During these years I gathered a
lot of insight into the supermarkets’ ways of
working and saw how, ultimately, they were
propping up a broken food system.
I’ve always been passionate about the
environment and started Farmdrop in
2012 because I was unhappy with the
lack of fresh and locally sourced
food available in the shops. I’d
spoken to local farmers and
was struck in particular by one
conversation with a grower
who was selling his butternut
squashes to a supermarket for £1
while the retailer was then selling
them on for £3. I thought it was
SOMERSET
3 HOUSE
Strand, WC2R 1LA
In partnership with beer brand
Peroni, Somerset House’s airy
riverside terrace has been
transformed into an immersive
Italian experience until the end of
September. In true Italian fashion
you can dine on a range of sharing
boards and pizzas in the heart of one
of London’s most famous landmarks.
somersethouse.org.uk
absolutely astonishing that in the internet era
there could be such an unfair distribution of
value between the producer and the retailer.
That was the real tipping point for me to start
the business.
Photograph by (The Prince) Pasco Photography
At Farmdrop, we see it as our mission to
fix the food chain. That is why we source local
food wherever possible and deliver it directly
to our customers’ doors in electric vans. We
only harvest produce to order, which helps
minimise food waste, and gives local farmers
an unprecedented share of the retail price.
That producer share gives our farmers the
financial breathing space to produce food in
a way that is good for the land, the animals,
and ultimately our health. f
For more information, visit farmdrop.com

BEST OF THE REST
 2  St Ermin’s Hotel
2 Caxton Street, Westminster, SW1H 0QW
Draw up a chair at St Ermin’s Hotel’s
revamped London Essence Summer Terrace,
order yourself a G&T and get a true sense
of place with the new bar and drinks menu.
Inspired by the hotel’s rooftop garden, it uses
fresh ingredients, herb garnishes and honey
from the St Ermin’s bee colony.
020 7222 7888; sterminshotel.co.uk
 3  Bar Elba
109-117 Waterloo Road, SE1 8UL
Named after the island that Napoleon was
exiled to for 300 days, Bar Elba aims to bring
a party island atmosphere to Waterloo. And
it works. Killer grilled cheese sandwiches
and burgers are provided by Dip & Flip,
while effervescent big-jug cocktails are a
guaranteed path to fun times.
020 3892 8166; bar-elba.co.uk
THE SELECTOR
TAKE IT
OUTSIDE
Making the most of summer in the city
is easy with so many terraces and
gardens – here are some of the best
 1  The Prince
14 Lillie Road, Earls Court, SW6 1TT
Former pub The Prince of Wales has
undergone a royal makeover to become a
must-visit summer spot. It’s now a true food
mecca, providing tasty treats from Patty &
Bun, Begging Bowl Canteen, Coqfighter, and
Foley’s. If that all-star team hasn’t got you
reaching for your sunnies, the presence of
The Prince’s summer garden certainly will.
@theprincelondon.com; theprincelondon.com
116
 4  Sager + Wilde Paradise Row
Arch 250 Paradise Row, Bethnal Green, E2 9LE
Sager + Wilde’s courtyard is the ideal place
to quaff your way through an extensive wine
list and sample seasonal fare. And it doesn’t
get more seasonal than fusilli with dandelion
and Spenwood pesto. Pair that with a Nettle
Collins and you’re basically eating the British
countryside, all from a cobblestone street.
020 7613 0478; sagerandwilde.com
3
 5  Coq d’Argent
No.1 Poultry, Smithfield, EC2R 8EJ
Apologies to the vegetarians out there, but
grilled meat and the summer were just meant
to go together. And you can now make that
pairing even better by gawping at the pristine
panorama of the city you call home while
enjoying a 50-day dry-aged Sirloin steak
when you head to Coq d’Argent’s terrace bar.
020 7395 5000; coqdargent.co.uk
 5
1
 1  St Pancras by Searcys
Grand Terrace, St Pancras International Station, N1C 4QL
You don’t have to be going places to visit
Searcys’ champagne bar in St Pancras train
station, but it certainly helps. At the touch
of a ‘Press for Champagne’ button, Searcys’
2 selection could take you from the new-school
vineyards of the Surrey Hills straight to the
Grand Marques of Champagne – without
even leaving the bar’s heated leather seats.
020 7870 9900; stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk
THE SELECTOR
LOVELY
4
BUBBLY
Sparkling wine is always a pleasure, even more so if you drink it in
Photograph by [Coq D’Argent] Thomas Alexander; [OXO Tower] Michael Kyle; [Salon] Joe Woodhouse; (The Remedy) Derek
the right places. Here’s where you should head for your bubble fix
BEST OF THE REST
 2  OXO Tower Restaurant
Barge House Street, South Bank, SE1 9PH
There are more than 800 wines on the list at
the OXO Tower restaurant, and the best way
to get a taste for them is the six-course menu
 4  The Remedy
124 Cleveland Street, Fitzrovia, W1T 6PG
David Clawson and Renato Catgiu met while
working at Terroirs (a key player in London’s
natural wine scene) before they opened The
2
that’s paired with English wines. Kicking it off Remedy. Head on in for a drop of grower
is Harvey Nichols’ collaboration with Digby champagne, cava or a boundary-pushing
Fine English: a sparkling brut NV made from creation like funky South African ‘I wish I was 3
a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes. a Ninja’ Colombard pet-nat.
020 7021 1600; oxotower.co.uk 020 3489 3800; theremedylondon.com
 3  Salon  5  Noble Rot
18 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD 51 Lamb’s Conduit Street, Bloomsbury, WC1N 3NB
Low-intervention wines are the name of the The sparkling wine list at Noble Rot is
4
game at this tiny Brixton restaurant. If the basically a love letter to champagne with a
menu’s Spanish sparkling wine or prosecco few pignolettos, moscato d’astis, and English
doesn’t tickle your fancy, pop into Salon’s and Welsh sparkling wines thrown in to keep
bottle shop next door and pick up a quirky pet- things balanced. It’s heavily, if not solely,
nat or sparkling Italian garganega. Oh, and did focused on European winemakers and is
we mention corkage is free on Sundays? pretty much an oenophile’s heaven.
 5
020 7501 9152; salonbrixton.co.uk 020 7242 8963; noblerot.co.uk
117

THE SELECTOR
THE PICK OF
THE BRUNCH
Choosing where to brunch in London can be overwhelming… These
spots offer something that’ll capture your imagination (and appetite)
BEST OF THE REST
 2  Red Rooster
45 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3PT
Praise the lord because your brunch prayers
have finally been answered. Transforming
Shoreditch’s Curtain Hotel into a church of
good eating every Sunday, Red Rooster is the
only place in London (and quite possibly the
world) where you can brunch while being
serenaded by the House Gospel Choir.
020 3146 4545; redroosterldn.com
 3  Mr Bao
293 Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4UA
Offering Taiwanese takes on traditional
British breakfast fare with dishes like Bao
Benedict and the Full Taiwanese (Taiwanese
sausage, spring onion pancake, smoked
bacon, bao bun, Asian beans, and spiced
eggs), this isn’t brunch as you know it. It’s
much, much better than that.
020 7635 0325; mrbao.co.uk
120
 1  Dalston Superstore
117 Kingsland High St, Dalston, E8 2PB
More regularly considered a place to go
for a boogie rather than brunch, Dalston
Superstore does a pretty great job of
combining the two. Head there every
Saturday and Sunday to shake yo’ thang
with your favourite drag stars and dine on
poached eggs, fried sweet potato and beet
hash drizzled with tahini, toasted seeds, and
chives. It’ll satisfy pretty much any craving
you might have. Culinary or otherwise.
020 7254 2273; dalstonsuperstore.com
1
 4  Milk 2
18-20 Bedford Hill, Balham, SW12 9RG
Brunch is pretty much this Balham outlet’s
specialty. That, and coffee. Aesthetic eats
like the buckwheat pancakes come topped
with seasonal produce like poached rhubarb
and are so photogenic you almost feel awful
eating them. Well, until you take your first 3
bite and promptly wolf down the rest.
Photograph by (Dalston Superstore) VANEK London
milk.london
 5  KuPP
Unit 53, Merchant Square, Paddington, W2 1AS
KuPP capitalises on the Scandi obsession
4
with a banging bottomless brunch deal.
This place is all about the hygge and huge
portions. For just £25 per person, you and
your Stieg Larsson-loving mates can get stuck
into one of KuPP’s smögåsbords plus an hour
and a half of unlimited drinks
 5
020 7262 8618; kupp.co