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Building a Biodiesel Processor

Thank you for your interest in our biodiesel processor ebook. This guide is intended to provide the information
required to build your own biodiesel processor. When I first began building processors I couldn't find a
completed parts or price list. The lists I found seemed to be a few years old and the information wasnt nearly as
clear as it could of been. Alot of trial and error went into the design before releasing this information and we are
glad to be able to share my knowledge with you. We've answered all the questions for you.

What to get? Where to buy? How much it costs? How to build? How to save? How to upgrade?

There is also helpful advice and tips that will help you along the way. Thanks again and for all the latest
biodiesel information and tutorials visit us at Biofuelprocessor.com
Why Biodiesel?
Studies show that biodiesel outperforms gasoline, ethanol, and conventional diesel in reducing climate-altering
carbon dioxide emissions and in overall fuel-efficiency (see sidebars below).

Using 100-percent biodiesel (B100) eliminates all of the sulfur emissions associated with conventional diesel,
cuts emissions of carbon monoxide and smog-producing particulate matter almost in half, and reduces
hydrocarbon emissions by between 75 and 90 percent. Perhaps most significantly, using B100 reduces the
emissions of carbon dioxide—the main greenhouse gas causing global warming—by more than 75 percent.
Even using a blended biodiesel fuel like B20 (a 20-percent biodiesel/80-percent petrodiesel blend offered at
most biodiesel fueling stations) still reduces carbon dioxide emissions by 15 percent, according to the
Department of Energy.

Besides lowering emissions at the point of use, biodiesel fuel—made from corn, soy, or other plant matter—had
a past life absorbing carbon dioxide while it was growing as a crop in the field. With its past carbon dioxide
absorptions balancing its later carbon dioxide emissions, biodiesel results in an overall life-cycle lowering of
carbon dioxide emissions over both conventional diesel and gasoline. The industrial processes used to produce
biodiesel are cleaner than conventional diesel processes, reducing emissions associated with the life cycle of the
fuel by more than 80 percent.

As a cleaner burning fuel, biodiesel is better for a car’s engine than conventional diesel, providing greater
lubrication and leaving fewer particulate deposits behind. Biodiesel’s high ignition point (350°F vs. –43°F for
gasoline) makes it a safer fuel as well. Biodiesel is biodegradable and considered nontoxic by the
Environmental Protection Agency. All diesel vehicles have 20- to 30-percent higher fuel economies than
comparable gasoline vehicles.

Biodiesel also frees car-drivers from reliance on dwindling fossil fuel resources and the world politics
associated with obtaining those resources. It also keeps fuel dollars in the US. Biodiesel is more accessible than
ever, with the number of public fueling stations in the United States rising from zero in 1997 to 750 today. To
find a biodiesel fueling station or local biodiesel supplier near you, visit the National Biodiesel Board’s Web
site

What does a biodiesel processor do?


In order to make biodiesel you need 3 key ingredients: Vegetable Oil, Methanol and Lye. A biodiesel processor
is a machine that you can build that allows the methanol and lye to be safely mixed in the smaller tank. It also
allows hot oil to be trasferred into the larger tank without handling. In effect, it does the hardwork for you. A
pump is used to move the biodiesel throughout valves in the system. Start the processor, set a timer and come
back later. For those who are looking to save money on gas making your own biodiesel fuel at your home can
be the way to save thousands per year. Biodiesel can be produced at home for less than ½ the cost of diesel per
gallon. With diesel prices nearing $5.00 a gallon, biodiesel and various other biofuels deserve serious
consideration more than ever.
Biodiesel Processor Parts List
Below is a list of the parts used to make a working biodiesel processor. You can follow the parts list exactly or
use it as as a reference for your own custom project. Many parts are interchangeable with others. For example,
you can use all threaded or non-threaded pipes or all female pipes instead of male. Keeping the parts consistant
makes things much easier. My partner and I can build a processor in approx. 3 hours working together or about
5 hours working alone. When doing this for the 1st time it will more than likely take a full day or two.

Tanks:

1 - 60 Gallon full drain biodiesel tank and stand

1 - 15 Gallon full drain biodiesel tank and stand

Here is a link to all tanks and sizes offered on TankDepot.com.

On tankdepot.com you have to order stands and tanks seperately. Make sure to always get full drain tanks.
They have various sizes as well. For a 60 gallon you can buy either a 24"D x 46"H or a 30"D x 38"H. We use
the taller 46" model. Either can be used, its your preference ajustments to the guide should be made when using
a shorter size tank. These tanks come from Den Hartog Industries in Iowa if you would like to buy via them
instead. You can also email Den Hartog to find out if he has any distributors located locally. Believe it or not,
sometimes it's cheaper to get them shipped than to pay the rates some companies charge. Buying in bulk can
save money on shipping as well.

In January 2008 tanks could be ordered and arrive within a week or so, but after the increase in popularity
currently there's a 3 week minimum delivery time on all tanks.. If you can find a local company with tanks in
stock and the price is right, that's your best bet to get them quickly. Another option is to check out ebay.
Pipes and Valves:

• 13 - 3/4 inch long x 3/4 hose barbs (pipe threaded, not garden hose threaded)
• 11 - 1 1/2 inch long x 3/4 inch steel nipples
• 8 - 3/4 inch ball valves
• 11 - 3/4 inch elbows (male to female) - You may use female to female elbows but you will need more
3/4 steel nipples
• 2 - 3/4 inch metal cross, all female ends, threaded.
• 2 - 1 1/2 x 3/4 inch PVC Reducer Bushing (one for each tank) threaded on outside and inside.*pvc pic
below
• 2 - 1 x 3/4 inch steel or brass reducer (Goes in the pumps openings) *brass reducer pic below
• 1 - 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 inch steel plumbling tee. All three ends need to be 3/4 inch

All of these parts can be found at your local Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, Harbour
Freight or other hardware or plumbing store. We suggest Utah Biodiesel for as many parts as you can get. The
site has amazing prices, great customer service and just about anything you could ever need in the world of
biodiesel. I recommend them on personal experience.

Pump:

1 - You only need one pump, but theres two to choose from. Here what to look for: Cast Iron Clear Water Pump
— 720 or 330 GPH, 1/2 HP, 1in. You can get a quality pump at either Harbor Frieght or Northern Tool. They
are nearly identical, the Northern Tool pump pulls over twice as many GPH, which is why its nearly twice the
cost. We prefer the Northern Tool's version. There is a link to each below. Of course, you can save some money
if you pick them up locally instead of having them shipped.
Northern Tool part #109955
Harbor Freight ITEM 1479-3VGA

You can get many bigger and better pumps, these are the most economical.

• 1 - 8 ft or longer , 14 or 16 gauge, 3 wired cord. Make sure you get 3 wired and not 2!
• 3 - Insulated Ring Terminal Connector; #8-10 (Stud), 16-14 AWG (Wire) Size. This is to attach the
chord to the pump.

Hose and Clamps:

• Approx 15 ft of 3/4 clear or clear braided tubing/hose. This includes a few extra feet.
• 10 - Hose clamps (big enough to fit around a 3/4 inch hose, going alittle bigger is fine because you can
cut off the lose ends later)2 - Large hose clamps (much larger, sometimes these come with tanks. these
will hold the filer to the stand)
Nuts and Bolts:

• 6 - 5/16-18 x 1 1/2 fully threaded steel carriage bolt (3 for each tank)
• 6 - 5/16-18 hex head nut
• 4 - 7/16 x 3 inch fully threaded steel carriage bolts (all for the pump)
• 4- 7/16 hex head nut
• *Washers can be added as an option.

Others:

• 1 - Filter - Generic Strainer Line: These can be found online here


• 1 - Pallet - Can be wood, steel or plastic. The basic shipping pallet works fine, specifically, you'll need 4
ft x 2.5 ft or larger.
• 1 - Wash kit, misting system from Utah biodiesel Supply. (Orbit Arizona Mist 1/4" Misting System
• 4 - 1/4 inch Cable clamps. These are used to mount the wash kit to the top of your processor.
• 4- Very tiny short screws to secure cable clamps.
• 2 - Rolls teflon tape
Bucket Heater:

• 1,000 watt bucket heater : Please read cautions on the link. This is for use in metal containers before
putting into your poly tanks. Don't put the heater in your poly tanks.

Titration Kit:

• You can purchase various sizes and qualities of kits from sites such as Utah Bio or B100 Supply. These
are the beakers and containers to titrate your oil for best results.

Stickers and Decals:

Please visit Utah Biodiesel Supply to choose your decal sizes. The stickers really give the processor a good feel.
The tanks look alittle plain in my opinion. Adding a few of the many decals helps put on the finishing touches.
The cost of building.
These figures represent an average from various places of purchase from January 2008 - October 2008. You
may be able to find parts cheaper locally. Since the biodiesel boom recently, the average cost to build a 60
gallon processor has gone up approx $100 due to the high demands, so prices may be slightly higher as well.
Definately shop around. The idea of a biodiesel processor is to save money on fuel long term, so get quality
parts cheap. It will take alittle homework to find the best deals but you can really save alot this way.

Tanks
60 gallon tank $113.62
60 gallon stand $62.95
15 gallon tank $67.03
15 gallon stand $57.95
shipping on tanks $129.40

Total $429.69 = Tanks to door Iowa to Central Florida.

Parts
13 - Hose barbs (brass $4.79 x 13 = $62.27) (plastic $1.79 x 13 = $23.27
11 - Steel nipples $0.60 x 11 = $6.60
8 - Ball valves (brass $7.99 x 8 = $63.92) (PVC $ 3.99 x 8 = $31.92)
11 - Elbows (metal $1.99 x 11 =$21.89 ) (PVC $ 0.59 X 8 = $4.72)
2 - Pipe crosses (metal $6.99 x 2 = $13.98) (PVC- not recommended, $3.49 x 2 = $6.98)
2 - Pump reducer bushings (metal $1.59 x 2 =$3.18 ) (PVC- not recommended, $0.99 x 2 = $1.98)
2 - Tank reducer bushings (PVC only, $1.99 x 2 = $3.98)
1 - Steel tee (metal $2.99) (PVC $ .79)

Hoses and Clamps


Braided Tubing (15 ft x $1.49 = $22.35)
Small hose clamps (approx $7.50)
Large hose clamps $2.00 (order from tank depot, they come on the bottom of the tanks upon arrival.)

Other Expenses

Filter - $14.99
Pallet- $ Free if you can find one. $5 or less at a pallet company.
Wash Kits - $14.99
Wash Kit screws and clamps - $2.00
Titration Kit - $20.00 -$80.00 depending on size and quality.
Bucket Heater - $40.00
Three wire chord - $8.00
2 tank reducer bushings (PVC only, $1.99 x 2 = $3.98)
1 steel tee (metal $2.99) (PVC $ .79)

As you can see, PVC is much cheaper that steel or brass. Though there isn't much difference between them in a
processor , the metal and brass make the machine more durable. In most cases you get what you pay for. You
might find really really cheap valves and find they are harder to turn etc. Again, try and get parts as cheap as
possible but don't let it compensate quality either.
A metal/brass 60 gallon biodiesel processor with a $40 titation kit and $40 bucket heater included can be built
for $725 or less. If you decide to go the PVC/plastic route you can save approx. $50-100 and end up around
$650. I will show you proven ways to save even more later in the guide.

Tools Needed in Production


Most tools used in building are fairly common. The majority of the work involves tightening pipes with a 1/2
inch to 1 inch crescent wrench. A drill is used to mount the tanks and pump and a 1 inch hole saw is used with
the drill to cut one hole on each tank. I recommend that you have another person help you with the pump, if for
no other reason than having someone hold it in place makes tightening much easier. A vice can also be used or
you can even bolt the pump to the edge of a pallet, get the pump section built and then unbolt it and mount in
the correct position. Putting the pump section together is the most strenuous part by far. You will need 5
sections of hose for our model, which can be cut easily with a hose cutter, razor blade or pocket knife.

• Phillips-head Screwdriver (small to medium)


• Flat-head screwdriver (small to medium)
• Crescent wrench, preferably two for leverage (1 inch and 1/2 inch sizes)
• 7/16 wrench
• 5/16 wrench
• Hose cutter, razor blades or knife.
• Power Drill
• Drill bits - various sizes. You will need to drill holes to mount the tanks and pump to the pallet, these
will need to be larger bits. 3/8 or bigger. A smaller bit should be used to mount wash kit 1/4 works
perfect.
• 1 inch hole saw (fits into drill)

Ways to cut your costs even more!


Shopping around and checking for the best deals is a guranteed way to save money when building a biodiesel
processor. I've been able to make 40 gallon processors for as low as $550 total by contacting companies and
comparing prices alone. Unfortunately, like most things in demand, the prices of parts have gone up in recent
months. Great deals can still be found. Here are some tips

• Ebay - Look for bulk auctions and general good deals. Brass barbs are approx $5.00 each in stores but I
managed to find 80 barbs for $30 shipped. Most of your pipe, hose, clamps and even tools can be found
at 1/2 price or better. I have had my unwanted ebay issues like many of you, but when ebay runs as it
should its still one of the best bargains around.
• Utah Biodiesel Supply - There are certain parts such as metal crosses, wash kits, heaters, titration kits,
and ball valves that are harder to find. You cant beat their $5.58 brass valves anywhere.
• Sales - Every month Harbor Freight and Northern Tool send out ads and have sales. The pumps tend to
be $5-10 off a few times a year. This is a good time to save a few bucks.
• PVC - As we showed with the price chart, you can take $50-100 off your final cost by using pvc pipe
and plastic barbs instead of metal and brass.
• Avoid Shipping - places like Ebay, Utah Bio, and Tank Depot are going to charge you for shipping.
Sometimes deals are so good that even after shipping its still worth purchasing online, but if you can
find everything locally, tanks included theres $150 in savings to be had.
• Smaller Processors - This guide is used to make a 60 gallon processor, but the idea works for any size.
You can buy smaller 30 or 40 gallon tanks and a 15 gallon and do the same thing. Save upwords of $40
with a smaller system.

The goal is to save as much as possible without risking quality.

How to customize your biodiesel processor.


We use a very simple design we call "the bull". The 2 elbows on the top of the pump form a bull horn shape and
allows the tanks to be connected easily. The main thing to understand is how the system works. Once you have
a clear idea of the process, the possibilities are endless. Here are a few ways to take your unit to the next level.

• Different Pumps - many new pumps have shown up in the market recently.
• Timers - add a built in timer
• Automatic Valves - difficult but you could go all out and design a system with fully automatic valves
set to timers.
• On/off switches - design a control panel to allow easier operation of the process.
• Filters - add a Purolite filter.
• Wash Kits - instead of mounting the kit inside the tank, make a seperate wash kit from a drum or extra
poly tank. You may also purchase entire assembled kits to do this for you.
• Steel Tanks - these are harder to find but if you can come across them. They retain more heat but you
cant see the fluid from the outside.

Every piece can be upgraded, its really just a matter of preference. A good thing about the biodiesel boom as
been to see all the new ideas and designs. Some people get really innovative and that's always great to see.
Beginning to build:
Teflon tape should be used on all pipe threads.

Pipes should be very tight. After completing, run water through the system to test for leaks before making
biodiesel. This can save you a big mess!

Setting up the Processor Tanks

Begin with your 15 gallon tank and stand. Adjust the tank in the stand so that the gallon markers face forward.
Open the lid and pretend the opening is a clockface. On the left side of the tank at (9 o'clock). A hole will be cut
with your 1 inch hole saw 1/2 inch down. From the outside, screw the male end of a 3/4 inch elbow into the
newly formed hole. Reach inside the tank and attach another 3/4 elbow. Tighten with both ends facing
downward inside and out. (Hint: Use a larger screwdriver inside the elbow to keep straight it pointing straight
down, while you turn the outside elbow. The also helps in providing leverage) A hose barb will then attatch to
the outside female elbow.

Take your 60 gallon tank and repeat. Make sure the gallon markers are facing forward for easy reading. Remove
the lid and make your hole on the right side of the tank at 3 o'clock. Add the elbows and barb and your ready to
move on to the next step. The tank bottoms.

The 15 gallon tank bottom is very simple. Insert your 1-1/2 inch x 3/4 inch PVC Reducer Bushing into the
bottom of the tank. Add a hose barb and you are finished with the 15 gallon tank for now.
For the 60 gallon tank bottom, Insert your 1-1/2 inch x 3/4 inch PVC Reducer Bushing. Screw a steel nipple
into your bushing. Attach your 3/4 inch steel tee. Each end of the tee will have a steel nipple added. Tighten
down your tee. On the left side of the tee, attact a ball valve to the nipple and a barb to the valve. This is your
glycerine drain. Allowing you to drain the glyerine from your biodiesel via a seperate valve. The right side of
your tee, another ball valve. Next, attatch an elbow to the valve and barb to the elbow. You have now finished
building the tanks, onto the pump.

Building the Pump Section

Start by insterting your 1 inch x 3/4 inch reducer bushing into the top opening on the pump.
A steel nipple is fitted into the bushing and a steel cross. (all female, all threaded) 3/4 elbows are attached on
the sides of cross forming the "bull" shape mentioned earlier. You should now have 3 openings (2 on elbows, 1
coming from the top of the cross) where steel nipples will be added. Followed by brass ball valves and hose
barbs.

The valve handles can be removed to make tightening easier. You'll want to stagger your valves so that each
one is able to be opened without being blocked by another.

The bottom reducer bushing is inserted in the horizontal entrance opening of the pump. A steel nipple is added
followed by a steel cross. Add 2 steel nipples to either side of the cross and 1 elbow across from your bushing
entrance. Insert a steel nipple followed by a ball valve, an elbow attaches to the valve and a hose barb is added
to finish this section of the bottom cross. Tighten 2 ball valves to each of the the steel nipples coming from the
cross. Facing the pump, add a hose barb to the right sides valve. This leads to your 15 gallon mix tanks bottom
section. On the left side of you cross, attach an elbow and barb to finish the pump.
Adding A Mircon Filter

Begin by attaching a hose barb to one end of the filter. This is the barb used for initially pulling biodiesel into
the machine. There will be an arrow on the filter itself showing you which way the oil should flow. On the
opposite end an eblow and then hose barb will be added. The elbow will face downward and connect to the
pump bottoms center barb off the elbow. 2 larger hose clamps (can be used from tank bottoms) are used to hold
the filter to the metal tank stands. On the 60 gallon tank, attach to the stand inself. Secure the filter well.

Mounting to Pallet

Now that the building is finished its time to mount the processor to a pallet. The 60 gallon reactor tank is placed
on the left side.15 gallon mixed tank is placed to its right. Sit your completeed pump in between the tanks. This
is where your preference comes into place. Depending on how you would like your processor to sit on the
pallet, arrange the valves so that hoses can easily connect to barbs. You may angle your tanks or move the pump
forward or back between the tanks. This can affect the amount of hose used by approx 1 ft. We recommend to
purchase 15 ft of 3/4 nylon braided hose, in reality about 10-13 ft gets used.
The stands come with 3 pre-drilled holes in each, while the pump has 4. Use a pencil to mark "to be drilled"
holes in your pallet. Place tanks and pump on pallet and secure with nuts and bolts. The tanks use (6), 5/16-18 x
1 1/2 fully threaded steel carriage bolt (3 for each tank) and are secured with 5/16-18 hex head nuts. For the
pump (4) - 7/16 x 3 inch fully threaded steel carriage bolts are used with hex head nuts. Shorter 7/16 bolts can
be used. As an option, 1/2 inch steel nipples can be used to give the pump "feet". Simply set the pump on 4 steel
nipples over your pallet holes and secure as above. This way your pump sit off the pallet. This idea is
completely up to you.

Attaching Hoses and Clamps

Next, 5 sections of 3/4 inch braided nylon hose will be added and secured to the hose barbs. Place one end of
your hose on the bottom of the 15 gallon mix tank. Measure the distance and attach to the hose to the pumps
right side lower barb. Mark where a cut is needed. Remove the hose with and cut the hose with either hose
cutters, a razor blade or knife. Secure hose to barbs with hose clamps on both ends. All hoses will have hose
clamps on both ends of final product. Don't tighten these all the way until you are ready to test with water.

Repeat this step with the barb coming out of the 15 gallon mix tank and attaching to the hose barb located on
right most valve of the top part of your pump.(The Bull section's right side). Attach the barb coming from the
60 gallon tank to the left most valve on the top section of the pump. The middle valve is closed and without a
hose until you are ready to pump out finished biodiesel.

The 4th hose will attach between the bottom of your 60 gallon tank and the bottom section of the pumps left
most valve. This is a shorter hose and should be cut carefully. A final hose is placed between the filters hose
barb and the bottom of the pumps vertical elbow barb. Depending on how the tanks are mounted, this hose can
run in between the bull section if need be. (to the right of the left most valve).

Tighten all hose clamps.

Building the Wash Kit

Drill a hole in the top section of the 60 gallon tank at 9 o'clock while tank is facing forward. Cut tubing and
arrange mist heads so that you have 4-6 mist heads evenly spaced around the underside of the tanks lid. Use
small screws to attach 1/4 cable clamps to tank and run the tubing through the clamps. The garden hose
attatchment chord is then connected to the wash kit thought the newly drilled hole. Connect a garden hose to the
attachment and turn water on very low. This is a thin tube, not much pressure is needed. You may have leaks or
mist heads that point weird angles etc. Test and arrange so that all mist heads spray evenly.

A wash kit can be built with nearly any hose mist heads. The water mist filters your biodiesel even more and
should be done 2-3 times to insure the cleanest oil possible before adding to your vehicle. You biodiesel
processor should now be ready for testing. Fill a large bucket or drum with water follow the steps for adding oil
to you tank. Make sure all valves are in correct positions and that no small leaks form while running with water.
You may need to prime the pump.
Adding cord to pump

Wiring Instructions (from pump manual)

1. Prepare a 3 chord electric cord set with plug


2. Open the black plastic box (junction box) on the top of the pump
3. Loosen the screws on the small clamping plate
4. Take out the clamping plate and screws
5. Lay the electrcic cord throught the black rubber tapered hold.
6. Loosen the ground screws marked a tree shape and fasten ground wire into it.
7. Loosen the two copper screw nuts (marked V1, W1 and U1) Fasten the electric power leads to them.
8. Put back the clamping plate and screw the plate tight
9. Put back the black wiring kit cover and screw it tight.
Using your new Biodiesel Processor

1. Please pre-heat (heat and filter) your used vegetable oil before adding to the processor.
2. Heat the oil
3. Titration
4. Add methanol and lye to the 15 gallon mix tank (making methoxide)
5. Mixing the methoxide
6. Add the oil to the system
7. Add methoxide to oil
8. Mixing methoxide to oil
9. Drain glycerine
10. Washing
11. Drying
12. Remove oil from processor
13. Cleaning the processor

The Basic Recipe

1. Start with 40 gallons of pre-heated filtered WVO


2. Heat the oil to 130-140 °F
3. Titrate Oil = Strong base required
4. Oil amount X 0.20 = Methanol required
5. Add the methanol and lye to 15 gallon mix tank
6. Add WVO (waste vegetable oil) to 60 gallon tank via pump
7. Add methoxide to oil
8. Mix for 2 hours
9. All to sit for 12-24 hours
10. Drain Glycerine
11. Water wash biodiesel with installed wash kit. Allow approx 5 gallons of water to mist into the system.
12. Drain water.
13. Repeat 2-3 times as necessary
14. Remove cleaned biodiesel from the processor
15. Run water through system to clean. Removing hoses maybe needed to get hard to clean areas

The Step by Step Process

Please use diagrams for reference

1. Please pre-filter oil before using in the processor. You may use an old shirt or screen material. The goal
here is to get the larger pieces of waste out of your oil.
2. Begin heating the oil in a steel drum if possible with the supplied bucket heater and heat to 140 degrees.
3. Do a simple titration.
4. Remove lid from 15 gallon mix tank, add your determined amount of lye and methanol.
5. Close the lid and open valves #5 and #6 (see diagram). Turn on pump and allow to mix until all lye has
dissolved. (check consistency through hoses). Close all valves, turn the pump off.
6. To add heated oil to the 60 gallon reactor tank use a 3/4 inch hose of your choice and connect to the barb
attached to the micron filter. Open valves #1 and #3 and turn on pump. When you have all oil into the
reactor tank, close the valves and turn off the pump.
7. To add methoxide to the oil, open valves #5 and #3 and turn on pump. Close all valves and turn off
pump once the methoxide is transferred.
8. Open valves #2, #3, and #4. Run pump for 2 hours.
9. Let the mix sit for 12-24 hours. After a short amount of time you will notice two distinct layers. The
dark layer is glycerine and this will be drain out via the glycerine drain exiting to the left side of the 60
gallon tank. Disconnect the hose you used to add oil to the processor and drain the glycerine into an
empty bucket. You may use this in producing soap if you choose.
10. The wash kit makes water washing oil easy. Attach a garden hose to the wash kit connector and turn the
water on slowly. You don't need to turn the water on very high. Allow 5 gallons of water to mist into the
60 gallon tank. You can check the amount by looking at the gallon chart on the front of your tank.
11. Turn off water and allow the water to filter to the bottom. As the water moves through the oil, it further
cleans your fuel. Drain water via glycerine drain. Repeat this process 2-3 times as necessary.
12. After the final water wash, allow your biodiesel to set or "dry" for 2 hours. Drain any remaining water.
13. To remove the biodiesel, attach a 3/4 hose to the #7 valves barb. Open valves #4, #2, and #7. Turn on
the pump to move into your vehicle or a storage container.

To clean the processor run 20 gallons of water through the system. Manually disconnecting hoses and wiping
down any excess oil as you go.You may use the glycerine drain for draining remaining water.

Cautions:

• Please test ever batch of biodiesel before adding to your vehicle.


• Each batch leaves traces of oil in the machine, proper cleaning is needed after all mixes.
• Pumps will sometime need priming. Allow oil to reach the pump in order to help.

Disclaimer
Handling chemicals and hot oil can be dangerous, always use extreme care when producing biodiesel. This
guide is to be used as an education tool for those interesting in building your own biodiesel processors and is
not to be resold without permission from biofuelprocessor.com.

Thank You for Reading!


For biodiesel information please visit:

Biofuelprocessor.com