www.travelplaylive.com.

au
 ADVENTURE x EMPOWER x INSPIRE x DREAM x CHANGE

Travel Play Live

Women’s Adventure & Lifestyle

Walk across
the world!
Lucy Barnard kicks off
her epic journey

Adventure
through
adversity
Be inspired by
Tess Ley's heartfelt story

ISSUE #12 2018

Winners
announced
Over 400 women
wanted their happy
place on our cover

Australian
Ninja
We chat to Olivia Vivian
AU $14.95 ISSUE 12
 Runner Up
Cover Image
by Deanne Dwight

#happyplacetpl

It's the rough side of the

mountain that's the easiest
to climb; the smooth side
x
]yy

l
you to hang on to
A R E T H A F R A N K L I N
(RIP March 25, 1942 – August 16, 2018)

TRIBE LEADER
(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Natalie
Drake-Brockman
“Go placidly, amidst the noise and haste and remember
what peace there may be in silence”. (Desiderata: Max
Ehrmann, 1927)
Once upon my toilet wall was this powerful poem. I love,
and I'm guided by, the timeless wisdom in these words.
I also have Shannah Kennedy, author of Simplify Structure
Succeed, to thank for allowing me to feel as close to
happy as I possibly can be each day (you’ll hear more from
Shannah in this issue). Over time I realised that I wasn’t
participating enough in the activities that selfishly made me
happy. I like to think of ‘selfish activities’ as the ones you
enjoy that aren’t related to anyone else.
Turns out that I only had myself to blame and so I’ve taken
charge and put myself first a little more these days and make
time for wholesome activities that selfishly transcends me to
my happy place.
Mostly there is return on this investment for everyone in my
sphere, including my darling husband and two gorgeous
boys who know how valuable this time and space is for me.
I have my hubby, friends and family to thank for the surprise
outdoor bath, my bike Daisy, Fin my SUP and Nurtle the
scooter!
I’m a leisure business specialist by trade and a bit of a
micro adventurer. I am always trying to be spontaneous
and creative with leisure activities, in fact with everything I
do. Always thinking of fun, affordable (mostly free) ways to
reconnect with nature and the unique grassroots culture in
my own, and other, regions because it absolutely, positively
influences my wellbeing. Transportation, away from the
daily grind, involving a bit of fun and a rush of endorphins
within the elements – count me in!
As a subscriber, I am an absolute TPL advocate.
I love everything this community, built by Kez and Amy,
stands for. I feel deeply privileged to have this opportunity
to lead the tribe going forward. Bring It!
03
hello F R O M T H E N E W
TEAM
CHIEF EDITOR
Melanie
Chatfield
My interest in other people and places started from an
obsession with collecting pen pals. I spent countless hours
and hundreds of my mum’s dollars on stamps and envelope
sized trinkets. I swapped notes of my life as an Aussie farm kid
with people from places as diverse as Ghana, Finland, and
Scotland. I never dared to dream that one day I’d get more
than just a glimpse into where some of them lived!
But after a shock diagnosis in my early 20s – which revealed I
had a degenerative eye condition and was losing my sight – I
promised myself that I would see the world while I still had the
chance.
Since then, I have wandered all over our beautiful Australia
and explored over 60 countries. I’ve camped in Africa, ridden
a donkey in Egypt, scuba-dived in the Galapagos, slept in
the Moroccan desert, paraglided in Argentina, sky dived in
Canada, skied in Japan, cycled in Latvia, trekked in Nepal,
ice-skated in New York, drunk vodka in Russia, danced the
CanCan in London, and had my eyeballs licked by a Shaman
in Peru.
To fund my insatiable bucket list, I work and volunteer in jobs
focused on improving the health and well-being of others. I
am passionate about helping to build communities that are
diverse, inclusive, safe, active and connected.
What I love about Travel Play Live is the commitment to
nurturing, inspiring and encouraging everyone to get out there
and have a go; reminding all of us to be kind to ourselves, to
look after each other, and to take care of our environment.
I am incredibly excited to join the tribe and can’t wait to hear
and share stories from each, and every one of you.
Happy travels.
Travel Play Live

Newes t Par tn ers In
Change. It can be exhilarating, exhausting and downright ballsy.
It can also be gentle, subtle and incredibly sneaky.
Letter from the Editor
Change. Usually I love it. I thrive on diving
head first into opportunities to learn and
try different things. It makes me feel good
and provides a sense that I am moving
forward. Sometimes I let go and drift,
adapting and evolving with the flow of
what comes my way. Occasionally, I try to
resist it.
On a recent trip to Wales I reflected on its
enduring presence. I was visiting some
friends who have uprooted their little
Australian family to explore the wild lands
across the sea. It was a reunion of sorts.
We’ve been friends for decades but hadn’t
spoken much of late. Distracted and busy,
we were left pondering where the time
had gone.
We could see the changes in our wizened
faces, our unique smiles shaped by diverse
experiences and shifting priorities. Yet, as
we settled in for a familiar Sunday roast,
the differences faded away. The essence
of who we were and what we stood for as
friends hadn’t changed. We laughed as if
we had never been apart.
As many of you know, Travel Play Live is
evolving. Founders Amy and Kez have
stepped to the side, enabling Nat and I
the chance to nurture and build upon the
remarkable legacy they have created.
We are relieved that both inspiring women
A dve n ture
will remain actively connected, continuing
to share their wisdom and guidance with
all of us. Alongside them are a formidable
tribe of inspiring humans who are long-
term friends, readers, contributors and
supporters. You, plus the new friends we
hope to make, are the key to the future of
this community.
Both Nat and myself are committed
to what Travel Play Live stands for. We
embrace this new challenge with passion,
integrity, good humour and an open mind.
It’s quite fitting really that this transition
occurs in Spring, the natural time for
growth and rejuvenation. This issue is
packed full of stories of renewal, reflection,
progress, motivation and exploration.
Nestled among them you will find a
selection of breathtaking images. We
were inundated with entries to our photo
comp and it was hard to pick a winner.
Huge round of applause to Kathy Chislett
who claimed top spot and features on the
cover. Congratulations also to our runner-
up Deanne Dwight and all those who
made the shortlist.
We hope you enjoy this special issue and
encourage you to get in touch, we love
making new friends.
Mel
04 Travel Play Live
ISSUE#12
CONNECT WITH US
www.travelplaylive.com.au
@travelplaylivemagazine
TRIBE LEADER (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Natalie Drake-Brockman
CHIEF EDITOR
Melanie Chatfield
NEW COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS
AND ADVERTISING
hello@travelplaylive.com.au
CREATIVE
Joey Dable
Two Minds Creative
TPL PHOTOGRAPHY
Ben Cirulis
www.fotografija.com.au
SUSBSCRIPTIONS
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Copyritght TPL Publishing PTY LTD 2015. No part of this
publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means without prior written consent of the
publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material
is created by TPL Publishing and its contributors, including
text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from
public domain like social media sites we agree are not the
property of TPL Publishing, and in all cases media permission
has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement.
The content and views expressed in this magazine by
individuals and TPL Publishing are provided in good faith as
information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of
the information provided. We have done our best to credit
all photographers. In some instances photos have been
provided to us by those who appear editorially and we have
their permission to use the images. We apologise if anything
appears incorrectly. It will be a genuine mistake, let us know
and we will ensure to mention it in the next issue.
Photo Credit: Damien Hatton

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05 Travel Play Live

Olivia Rose
Photographer: Brock Deem

#happyplacetpl
 c o n t e n t s
WOMEN OF THE LARAPINTA SNOW GOING BACK POSITIVE CHOICES
Elisha Donkin Alice King & Ben Cirulus BY MOTHER NATURE
TPL Interview
PLASTIC IS NOT FANTASTIC GIRLS ON FILM
Laura Summer Stampa & Jessica Brosnan Jemima Robinson NORTHFACE ATHLETE
ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON
TPL Interview
INCONVENIENT CHANGE SHIFTING PERSPECTIVES
Sputnik IN THE SHIFTING SANDS
OF JORDAN CREATE A LIFE WITH
Caroline Pemberton PURPOSE & PASSION
CONSIDER
Henrietta Lee
CONSCIOUS CLOTHING
Rhianna Knight ALREADY A RUNNER
Ta Lisa Hiron AN ODE TO MY
OUTSIDE SELF
MACPAC AMBASSADOR
Brooke Nolan
DULKARA MARTIG WHAT SCARES YOU MOST
TPL Interview Kemi Nekvapil
BATHE IN NATURE
Lyndall Mitchell
NOCTURNAL SAFETY FOR THERE'S ALWAYS CRITICS AT
THE URBAN ADVENTURER OUR MOST VULNERABLE
Denise Straty Lucy Barnard CONSCIOUS LEARNING:
A KEY TO WELLBEING
Shannah Kennedy
ADVENTURE AUSTRALIAN NINJA
THROUGH ADVERSITY OLIVIA VIVIAN
Tess Ley TPL Interview NEVER TOO OLD TO BE
A FROTHING SURF GROM
Surf Getaways & Andi Wallace
FIND THE COURAGE TO SAY YES BLAZING THE
Senka Radonich TRAIL SOLO
Michelle Ryan MAKING CHANGE:
EMBRACING THE WILD
GREENLAND GRAND ADVENTURE
Amanda Fry
Bridget Kruger MOUNTAIN SAFETY IN
AUSTRIA'S GNARLY TERRAIN
Jennifer Ennion "OUR DELICIOUS ADVENTURE"
EMBRACING BUDDHISM
RECIPES
IN BHUTAN
Jane Grover
Michelle Lawford

READ MORE
Head over to our website for bonus content and previous articles
www.travelplaylive.com.au

STAY CONNECTED
We love to hear from you, so be sure to tell us all about your travels and adventures.
Contact us at hello@travelplaylive.com.au
Share your photos with us on Instagram by using #travelplaylive for your chance to feature.

07 Travel Play Live

Finalist: Women Of Wander
Photo Credit: Abigail Varney

#happyplacetpl
 If we don't change,
x ]dJ"
x ]dH^ ]
y˜ J
A N AT O L E F R A N C E
Wom e n o f t h e

WORDS BY: ELISHA DONKIN

‘You’re doing it alone?!’, is the usual response. As a female, I am used to getting a shocked,
or maybe a concerned look, when I tell people I’m going out into the wilderness on my
own. This time though, I was far from the only one. The Larapinta Trail is a 223 km
long-distance hike, heading west from Telegraph Station in Alice Springs along the West
MacDonnell Ranges and finishing at the peak of Mt Sonder. It’s a remote, rugged and
tough trail, notoriously known for chewing through even the best hiking boots and wearing
people down by making you climb every rock and ridgeline in sight.

010 Travel Play Live

 o most people, it was not a place for a
woman, especially not a solo one. The
rough environment of the outback isn’t
very kind, you obviously have to carry a
heavy pack, and of course, there are no
showers. Oh, and there’s no phone reception. But that’s kind
of the attraction.
I left at 9 am on a Wednesday morning from Telegraph
Station and had a 13.5 km day ahead of me to my first
campsite. It was going to be a scorching winter’s day in Alice
Springs with a top of 28°C and a total climb of 280 m up to
Euro Ridge.
After only one hour into the day, I started to think that my 18
kg pack was actually pretty
heavy. I had never carried
a full pack over such a long
distance before. The trail was
heavily exposed, and I was There are now
under the heat of the sun as more women
it started to ascend the rocky
ridgeline. I scrambled to find
completing
a little bit of shade where the Larapinta
I could stop and make up solo than men
some rehydrating solution
to replace the electrolytes
- I know, I was
pouring out of my body. surprised too.
I clipped a rock with my toe –
which would not have usually
thrown me off balance – but
with the force of 18 kg on my
back working against me I was propelled forward. As I put
my hand out, to stop myself from falling on my face, my knee
grazed a rock. I had blood trickling down my right leg and I
thought to myself, ‘what am I doing out here?’.
Yet it was just these types of challenges that helped me push
on. I knew other hikers would probably see my grazed knee
and think that if I couldn’t even make it past the first day
what hope did I have? I’m not one to give up though, I like
challenges. I didn’t give myself any alternative – I was going
all the way to Mt Sonder no matter what.
I had plenty more bumps along the way. I battled gale force
winds camping on top of a lookout called Brinkley’s Bluff. My
right foot started aching and I burst my extra water bladder
on day six. My left boot started splitting on day eight – the
halfway mark – and I relied on the generosity of others to
provide all sorts of different tapes to keep it together for the
011 Travel Play Live
rest of the trip.
But at the same time, I was getting physically stronger every
day. Six days in I even thought I’d left half my pack contents
behind that morning because it felt so much lighter. It was
just my body adapting, an effect that contributes to the
addictive nature of these kinds of adventures. It’s the ultimate
sense of freedom, independence, and strength. As a
woman, I value these feelings the most.
There are now more women completing the Larapinta
Trail solo than men – I know, I was surprised too. In the
previous few years, the number of female hikers on the trail
has increased dramatically. I met females from as young
as 13 years of age and well into their 60s, completing it
independently either in small
groups or alone.
I was expecting to meet few
other female solo hikers, if any. I
usually like doing something that
not many others do; it gives you
an added sense of achievement.
But I loved the fact that I wasn’t
the only solo female on the trail.
It was refreshing. I was not the
only crazy one.
A male guide I met asked me
why I thought there were more
women on the trail, contrary
to what most people expect.
‘Why?’, is a big question.
Everyone has their own reason
for doing the Larapinta. My reason was because I was
looking for my next challenge. I’d done multi-day hikes
before but nothing of this length and toughness, and never
with a full pack. But everyone was different.
It means though, that more women are saying, ‘I can do
that’. The male guide followed his question up with, “But
why not do another hike, a shorter one, or one not as
rough?” Where is the fun in that though? The remoteness,
the vastness of the landscape, the physical and mental
challenge, that’s what we want.
Whenever I passed a fellow female hiker on the track we’d
always stop, chat, and share stories from the trail. There
was a real sense of belonging, a shared experience; we
understood each other.
Standing on top of Mt Sonder, at the end of 15 days on the
trail, I felt as strong as ever.
BIG ADVENTURES

Explore places where you can find yourself –

and no one else – in a minimal impact style.

#thoughtfultravel

worldexpeditions.com • 1300 720 000

@worldexpeditions

IMAGE: Cho La Pass, Himalayas, Nepal | Marcelle Barnett ATAS No: A10684
7 PRINCIPLES
LEAVE

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

TRACE

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

3. Dispose of Waste Properly
4. Leave What You Find
5. Minimise Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife
7. Be Considerate of Your Hosts
and Other Visitors

www.lnt.org.au

013 Travel Play Live

 PL I S N

It floats through life with a momentary purpose of convenience,

preservation or decoration – and then it is forgotten. Gone, disposed of, lost
or let free. It’s single-use design carries an unknown life expectancy. Alone,
but not lonely, ready to go where the wind takes it next.

Sometimes it pauses to rest in the bushes, or drifts aimlessly out everything we use comes wrapped in plastic and it can feel
to sea, only to return and lap against a sandy beach. Most of the unavoidable.
time, the ignorant and desensitised walk past and don’t even Most of us have the right intentions and want to change, but our
register it exists.Still, there are a growing few that feel a heavy tug current society makes it difficult to do so.
on their heart strings when they
Deep down however, we
see it; they find it impossible
can feel it – a movement is
to go by without picking it
changing our culture. People
up so that the hungry turtles We want our children are opening their eyes to
and birds don’t mistake it for to be able to travel, the reality of the situation
nutritious food. They know full
well that, even post-digestion,
explore and enjoy and creating alternate ways
of inhabiting planet earth.
it lives on. Polluting waterways, the natural wonders Momentum is gathering.
becoming smaller but not of the world, free of Whether you are forging the
ready to decompose in our
lifetime; the devastating result
the plastic tainting way, knee-deep in the trenches
of waste-free living, or still on
of a product built to last. its natural beauty. We the side-lines (curious but not
We’ve all seen it somewhere. are the generation of yet convinced), the following
The horrors of plastic over-use
amplified by a culture that
change. The generation two tales offer hope and
opportunity. Triumph amidst
makes it inconvenient and that can empower and the tragedy.
awkward to refuse, reuse or have a positive impact Jess takes her family’s zero
recycle. Instead, plastic is
strewn across our landscapes,
on our environment. waste experiment out of the
house and across Australia,
never decomposing, drifting, Come join us. creating car-camping
floating, and strangling the conversions that will curb your
natural world. impact.
As consumers, it’s difficult not While Laura, having sailed, cycled and paddled around the world,
to contribute to this environmental disaster. Disposable towels, shares tips on how to reduce your impact when travelling in
disposable wipes, single-use food pouches, plastic wrappers, countries where waste is more in your face.
even plastic water bottles. You name it, man has created it.
You will see how a little pre-planning can go a long way to
Whether buying organic produce (or even bananas) almost
preventing plastic pollution and contribute to cultural change.

014 Travel Play Live

 PL I S N

“We had been cycling down the main arterial highway that
connects North and South Vietnam for almost two weeks. The
dust, exhausting car fumes, and muggy humidity were taking
their toll. My inner mermaid was dying for a swim, so when I saw
a turn off with a symbol that looked something like a beach, I
took it. Sure, it would add a 15 kilometre loop to our journey, but
right now, it seemed like a great idea. Visions of the aquamarine
beaches I had seen littered in the travel guide tantalised my mind.
As we made our way down the dusty side road we were met by
three curiously amused children
who held their hands out for a
high five. I took it as a good sign.
The dirt became sandier and
We had been
My gasp was quickly followed by another as I attempted to
wade through the sea of plastic. For every three metres, there
were at least four plastic bags. And it just kept going. On and
on, the sea of plastic. Out beyond my limit of sight, plastic,
plastic, plastic. I looked back ashore at the unphased fishermen,
surely this must clog up their nets and make them feel strange
about the environment in which they base their livelihood? My
limited Vietnamese and their limited English prevented further
investi ation. The small village of 30-40 huts lay behind me, a
sea of at least three thousand plastic
bags lay ahead of me. I just could not
comprehend how this could happen.

my heart beat lightened as the cycling down As I look back through my memories
of adventuring throughout the world,
sea breeze cooled my face. We
pushed our bikes onwards, past
the main arterial it has been my experiences in the
the strange looks and ramshackle highway that lesser developed countries where the
houses towards the horizon. connects North reality of rubbish has really stood out.
As we made it to the sand, I
dismounted my bike and began
and South Vietnam One image springs to mind, of young
kids playing in the beautiful waters of
running towards the delightful, for almost two the remote atoll Tabeuran in Kiribati.
refreshingly cool ocean. De- weeks. The dust, I join in with them, only to discover
robeing and de-shoeing as I
raced.
exhausting car they are throwing a disposable nappy
at each other...Yuk! My mind flashes
But then I stopped. And gasped. fumes, and muggy to a paddling trip through the remote
Sure it was overcast, so the humidity were gorges of the upper Amazon in Peru.
dazzling azure waters were a taking their toll. We stand around the coals of our fire,
strange shade of grey. And yes, poking the last embers of our plastic
the gritty sand did not quite live waste and trying not to inhale. We
up to the white, squeaky beach know if we don’t burn it ourselves, the
I had dared to imagine. To add to the picture, the local fishing next village we leave it in will.
wharf was providing a unique marine-inspired aroma of its own.
My mental memory flicks on to when I was watching the sunset
Fortunately, when I am dying for a swim, the tiniest murky puddle
becomes an alluring oasis. Well, most of the time. in Majuro, Marshall Islands. Out of the corner of my eye I watch
helplessly as the high tide laps up and over the breakwall of the
As I ran towards this particular paradise, I spotted strange things
dump, dragging a fresh pile of plastic out with each wave.
floating in the water. At first I thought wow: Vietnamese jellyfish
come in pink, blue and yellow! Then, as I got closer, I realised, the A lack of rainfall in some areas has meant soft drinks and packaged
same realisation that turtles often make too late, it’s not a jellyfish: foods are now cheaper and more accessible than drinking water
it’s a plastic bag. and fresh vegetables, so the waste production had boomed.”

MEET Laura Stampa

Laura is a barefoot ocean-lover and explorer who loves to write about her adventures. When she
isn’t travelling or picking up rubbish, she lives in Cabarita Beach, Australia. She teaches outdoor
and environmental education, hosts Greening our indust-tree and co-founded Journey Outdoors
in Nature, to create adventurous avenues for people to rediscover their natural wellness.
laurasummerstampa@gmail.com
www.journeyoutdoorsinnature.com.au

015 Travel Play Live

 TURTLE
Friendly
Here are some of Laura's top things to travel with to reduce your plastic footprint
A durable, reusable water bottle
The benefit of a some of the more durable
designs are, not only will they last your entire
journey but often you can fill them up with
boiling water. Great if you are travelling in an
area where tap water is not drinkable as you can
boil it for a few minutes first, thus reducing your
need to buy plastic bottled water.
A water filter
You can get a range of travel filters but I really
like the mini sized ones as then it never feels
like too much to throw it in ‘just in case’.
Many come with handy attachable bags/
bottles making it easier to fill from streams and
waterholes. Great for all outdoor adventures –
planned or impromptu. Can also been used to
filter tap water in villages.
A water bladder
I have a 10 Litre water bladder, which I find
really great to support a travelling duo. I fill it
up prior to those long bus rides, or when I am
camping, hiking or paddling away from a fixed
water source. Some brands also allow you to fill
the bag with hot water - great to snuggle with
in the snow, and they also make a comfortable
pillow. You can often get a fitting that attaches
your water bladder to a filter, so they can be
used in combination. They roll up pretty small
when empty, and also comes in 4L, 2L and 1L
varieties. A cheaper version of this would be
T R A V E L
Tips for plastic proof packing
a goon sack (wine cask bag), but they cannot
hold hot water and are more prone to air
bubbles or holes.
Grape seed extract
The only natural water treatment I have found
yet, other than traditional charcoal particles.
Add ten drops to 1 litre. It has a slightly bitter
flavour that I overlook by justifying that it won’t
be killing the good bacteria in my stomach
(unlike many other chemical drops that do). As
I learn more about the links between gut flora
and mental health, I think grape-seed extract
is definitely worth the investment of about $30
a bottle. It comes in a handy travel size and is
available at some pharmacies and most natural
health food stores. Good for taking care of the
micro-bacteria that some filters won’t get out.
A reusable bag
I really like to bring a roll-top travel backpack.
They pack down super small and also double
as a comfortable daypack. It allows me to go
shopping and not need a plastic bag to carry
my goods. Having an alternative bag makes it
easier to refuse plastic wherever I am. Especially
in countries where the plastic phenomenon is
relatively new, there is often a tendency to put
one thing in two plastic bags. I am not sure
why, but “No plastic” appears to be universal
in all languages from my experience – or atleast
a well defined head shake and point. So do
016 Travel Play Live
what you can, even if you come across as a
weird foreigner. Little things like getting the
weight sticker put directly onto you fruit and
vegetables, rather than having them individually
placed in a plastic bag, will definitely save a
turtle or two!
A reusable mug
Not only is this great for reducing the amount
of polystyrene ending up in the water system,
it also gives you an avenue to staying hydrated
on the go. Drinking herbal tea is a great way to
access safe drinking water – just ensure it has
boiled for a few minutes. Tea drinking rituals
are ingrained in many cultures because of this,
so embrace the opportunity on offer when
you can. Alternatively, if you are travelling in
the tropics, coconut water is the safest form of
clean hydration going around – and it should
even come in its own compostable packaging
(the coconut husk) if its authentic!
Refillable containers or mesh bags
I throw in a few mesh bags and tupperware
containers, which often hold clothing until the
markets take priority. These are great for filling
with nuts, rice, beans, fruit and vegetables or
other small loose items that would normally
come in a plastic bag. You can often purchase
these products loose from small markets (which
are a cultural experience in themselves) or from
bulk food stores.
 PL I S N

“Seven years ago, we were walking along the stunning stretch of with you, to help keep your travelling experience turtle-friendly.
Cinque Terra’s rugged coastline in Italy. The lush nature trails and Although the night-before packing extravaganza is hectic at the
clean salty air felt like freedom. We were on a trip of a lifetime, best of times, if we want to be swimming in water rather than
hiking the picturesque cliffs that joined the Cinque Terra’s five plastic, there is no better time to start making a change than now.
famous fishing villages. So, wherever your feet plan to take you for your next adventure,
But, during our walk, something happened that has stuck with pack well, so you can do your best to leave only footprints.
me forever. Footprints with plenty of space on this beautiful earth for others
to enjoy in the future. We want our
A hiker ahead slowed down
children to be able to travel, explore
as they reached around into
and enjoy the natural wonders of the
their backpack and pulled out We live in such world, free of the plastic tainting its
a plastic bag which looked like
it was holding a nappy. I could
a convenience natural beauty. We are the generation

see them fumbling around with driven world and of change. The generation that can
empower and have a positive impact
the bag for a few minutes and have become really on our environment. Come join us.
then they tossed the bag right
off the cliff – into the pristine
good at throwing
sparkling ocean that we were so stuff ‘away’ but not
captivated by.
thinking about the
I was shocked and instantly felt
saddened. I couldn’t believe
consequence of
what I had just witnessed.” where ‘away’ is.
As travellers, we understand that
limited access to refuse services,
lack of environmental education, and the abundance of cheap
single-use plastics, all exacerbate our environmental problems.
But for those who look on in disgust at the situations in other
countries and shake their heads like the first-world cares more,
the reality is: we are just better at pretending that we do while we
hide the truth.
We live in such a convenience driven world and have become
really good at throwing stuff ‘away’ but not thinking about the
consequence of where ‘away’ is.
For every village of forty houses in our homeland of Australia there
is no doubt a much bigger ‘sea’ of plastic waste exists, hiding in
our landfill. Stumbling across another example of unmanaged
plastic waste polluting a landscape should inspires us to take
more steps to refuse letting plastic into our lives – wherever we
are in the world.
We know the routines of home help facilitate our waste
minimisation, with bulk food orders, fruit and veggie boxes, and
easy access to products that support our values. While travelling
entails many unknown, there are a few simple things you can take

MEET Jess Brosnan

Jess is a passionate zero waste enthusiast and Naturopath who loves to motivate and inspire others to tread a little lighter
and greener. Jess lives in the far North of Western Australia with her husband and two small children; exploring, camping
and adventuring while being mindful of her environmental impact. Follow Jess's journey to zero waste on her Facebook
page Jessica Louise Wellbeing or jlbrosnan@hotmail.com www.jessicalouisewellbeing.com

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 JESS'S ZERO
Camping
WASTE E X P E R I M E N T
Jess’s Zero Waste Camping Experiment
At the beginning of this year we made
a commitment to work towards actively
reducing our household waste and living a
zero waste life.
Over the last few years, I had become more
conscious of our waste but still never took it
seriously. I recycled, and occasionally took
my own bags to the supermarket, but I wasn’t
looking at the bigger picture.
Then, late 2017, after watching the War
on Waste television series on the ABC,
something clicked. The fire inside of me, that
had built up over the years since witnessing
the rubbish being ditched over the cliff in
Italy, had finally reached boiling point – it
suddenly became clear that I needed to
change. So my zero waste journey began.
What is zero waste? The definition is
essentially not contributing to landfill. We
went from an overflowing weekly landfill bin
to completely empty in just five months. We
now compost all our food scraps, buy less
plastic, opt for loose produce, the kids are in
cloth nappies, we take our own containers to
the butchers, get a local fruit and vegetable
box delivered weekly, and DIY our own
cleaning and bathroom products.
Living zero waste takes preparation, especially when going camping, so
here are my tips for camping with a little less waste:
• Ditch the disposables and opt for durable
plastic or stainless-steel reusable plates,
cups, cutlery, utensils. Check your local
op shop
• Replace paper towels with tea towels or
cut up some old towels into squares
Invest in a large durable plastic or stainless-
steel water container
• Buy a universal portable water filter to
fill up your water container and reusable
water bottles
• Take collapsible food containers to save
space and hold any leftovers
• Meal plan and pre-prepare food at home
to portion sizes and freeze in reusable bags
• Take your own condiments, rice, pasta,
beans etc in recyclable cans and reusable
containers
• Avoid buying roadhouse food. Pre-
prepare car snacks such as mini quiches,
homemade yoghurt pouches, bliss balls,
Recently, we set off on a five-week camping
trip from northern Western Australia to Alice
Springs for my hubby to do the Finke Desert
race. Afterwards, we saw Uluru, Darwin,
Kakadu and Broome – using very little plastic
and minimising landfill waste. We travel light,
taking only the bare essentials: our camper,
car, clothes, and the kids.
We took our own water containers and water
filter with a universal tap; had a portable
fridge full of pre-cooked frozen dinners in
reusable bags; breakfast and lunches were
prepared from scratch; and had plastic-free
snacks ready to go on the ten thousand
kilometre journey. We always have our zero
waste essentials with us including cutlery, ZERO
coffee cups, bamboo straws, food containers
and smoothie cups. We also kept four
Waste R E C I P E S
separate waste bins for compost, landfill, soft
plastics, and recyclables, and disposed of Zero Waste Winter
them appropriately at the end of the trip. Camp Breakfast
(great for the whole family)
Zero waste isn’t about being perfect – it’s
about doing what you can and making better Porridge mix
choices. If we all just do one thing each day (pre-make prior to trip and
to live a more sustainable life, that one simple store in air-tight container)
change will have a huge, positive, and long- 4 cups oats
term impact on our beautiful mother earth. 2 cups pitted dates
Don’t wait. Be the change you want to see ½ cup chia seeds
and start reducing your landfill waste today! Blend for 5 seconds
Add 1 more cup oats, stir through
Porridge
½ tin coconut milk
½ cup filtered water
1 peeled chopped apple
and whole fruit like bananas, mandarins,
1 cup porridge mix
dates, apples and kiwi fruit
Add more water if thickens to quick
• Keep your reusable coffee cups in your
1. Cook apple in milk and water first
car for roadhouse stops on those long
2. Once softened add porridge mix
drives, or pull over and boil the kettle and
fill the thermos for the next stop Use other half of coconut milk in smoothie
Buy oats, dates and chia seeds from bulk store
• Avoid buying ice. Use a portable fridge/
Rinse, dry and recycle tin
freezer, or plan ahead by making block ice
or frozen water bottles as ice packs During the summer, prepare the porridge mix
and coconut milk in a container before bed
• Borrow or buy good quality second-
and pop in the fridge!
hand camping gear. Buy only what you
absolutely need
• Invest in a canvas bin and ditch the plastic Zero waste smoothie
bin bags Frozen pineapple
Frozen banana
• Separate your waste into landfill,
Frozen avocado
compost, recycling and soft plastics
(REDcycle) and dispose of appropriately. All pre-chopped and frozen at home
Compost can be dropped at community 1 tsp greens powder
gardens Handful loose spinach
½ tin coconut milk
• Pick up five pieces of rubbish each day
Top with filtered water
and leave your campsite cleaner than you
found it. 1. Blend and enjoy
018 Travel Play Live
 change
If there’s one thing I’ve noticed in recent times, it’s INCONVENIENT
the vast majority of people want to do the right thing,
just so long as it doesn’t cost too much. Too much
time. Too much effort. Too much inconvenience. Too
much money. Or a combo of all of the above.
WORDS & IMAGE BY: SPUTNIK

ost of us agree we should use less plastic bags. The

evidence is overwhelming. It’s bad for the oceans
and the environment we all love so much. But take
them out of supermarkets and all hell breaks loose.
Most of us agree straws are bad and unnecessary. But get rid of
them completely, and what about people with disabilities, or little
kids, or people wearing lipstick? Heaven forbid!
Most of us agree people should be treated with kindness and
respect. But if that means we must use different words to address
them, then nopity nope nope, that’s ‘political correctness’ gone
mad! Most of us agree murdering animals is bad. But…bacon.
The list goes on. Turns out this change
stuff can actually be quite inconvenient.
If you want stuff to change, sometimes it And then there’s
means we have to change. Go figure.
And then there’s the question of who’s
the question I’m always amazed when I see people

going to get all this change happening in of who’s going
the first place. to get all
Most of us agree all sorts of things need this change
to change, but who’s leading the change
charge? Not most of us. Nope, way too
happening in
uncomfortable to be out there alone and the first place.
vulnerable taking a chance. Maybe that’s
OK, just so long as we’re quick to support
those who do.
Take this very magazine for example. When Amy and Kez started
it, it was a massive risk. Most of us agreed the women’s adventure
space could really use an awesome magazine like this one, but who
would be crazy enough to put themselves out there, put their bums
on the line, and make it happen? (Spoiler alert: they did!) And then
what? Lots of pats on the back for sure. But it’s fair to say, after years
of hard work, and now a recent change in ownership, Amy and Kez
aren’t currently sitting back in southern France, rolling around on
their beds among hundred-dollar bills. No, they led the crusade,
created something beautiful, and now they are exhausted and have
passed the baton on.
And that’s where you come in. Whether it’s this crusade, or any
other, as the old saying goes, ‘If not me, who? If not now, when?’.
Movements need movers. And shakers. If you don’t feel like
leading change in whatever area you’re passionate about, be it the
adventure space or otherwise, it’s equally important that you at least
support those who do. Maybe it’s a kind word. Maybe it’s turning
up to an event. Maybe it’s voting with your money.
expecting change to come from somewhere
else. In the form of business guidelines
maybe, industry codes perhaps, or even
more hilariously, government policy. What
are governments and organisations but
groups of people? And isn’t that what we are?
People? Individuals at first. But put enough
of us together, and we’re a powerful force.
The #MeToo movement didn’t start as a
massive movement, it started with a single voice. Then another. And
another. And on it went. Someone started it. But the real change
came when so many others joined in. Even though, especially to
start with, it was almost certainly uncomfortable and inconvenient.
And possibly downright terrifying.
So if there was ever a call to arms for positive change in the world,
whether that be with gender issues, environmental, or anything else
for that matter, it’s this: if kick starting change yourself might seem a
bit more than what you’re prepared to sign up for, at least do your
best to jump in early with whatever level of support you can when
someone else does something worthwhile.
When they yell ‘charge’ (or ‘change’), do your best to follow them
as closely as possible. We can all be brave in different ways. We can
all support in different ways. But we’re all important. Every voice,
every kind word, every bought product, and likewise every product
not bought, adds up. Because when enough of us get together, we
can change all sorts of things. Even the world.

019 Travel Play Live

 C O N S C I O U S

CLOTHING
WORDS & IMAGES BY: RHIANNA KNIGHT

We all know it’s important to wear the right clothes outdoors. Not because purple is the ‘in’
colour of the season, but because you don’t want to end up sweatier than you need to be
hiking up that mountain.

When choosing clothes, stink factor isn’t the only thing to Honestly though, the most sustainable thing you can do
consider. There is also the environmental impact of where is not buy anything. Try it out for a month and become
clothes are made and who is making them. conscious of when you’re most tempted to take out your
It’s not news that fast food is bad for you, but it might card: is it when you see something on sale, is it when the
be that fast fashion isn’t any better. We justify so many product you already own is released in a new colour, or are
purchases because they are cheap; it doesn’t matter if you just bored on your lunch break? Maybe you’ll realise
you only use it a few times or if the quality is bad because that much of what you purchase you probably don’t need,
you can just buy another one, right? But by buying cheap, and on the plus side, you’ll be saving some hard earned
poor quality clothing and cash.
gear that is barely used and If you are trying a new activity
then thrown in landfill isn’t and are not sure what to
very environmentally friendly. When you know purchase (or aren’t even sure
And we’re happy to bet that it’s time to make if you’ll like it), it’s better to
like us, you’ve fallen in love borrow a friends gear rather
with the natural environment
a purchase and than buying something cheap
which is why you adventure invest in good that you’ll only use once.
outdoors. So, it’s time to stop quality gear, When you know it’s time to
making unnecessary negative
environmental impact and
spend some time make a purchase and invest
in good quality gear, spend
start making a change. researching the some time researching the
Lucky for us, some brands brand that you’re brand that you’re supporting:
are starting to step up to the
call, increasing transparency
supporting. What is the brand’s
environmental and
about their supply chain and sustainability policy?
how they are being more
What fibres do they use?
sustainable.
Who makes their gear?
If you’re new to the world of sustainability there can be a
lot to take in, so it’s good to get familiar with some terms Are they manufactured to be as cheap as possible, or are
before you start researching what your favourite brands they quality made goods that will last?
currently do or don’t do. There are accreditations such If you can’t find out information about the product and
as SA800, WRAP, BSCI and FLA that ensure workers are the brand, just ask. If enough people start asking what
treated safely and fairly. There are innovative fibres such their clothes are made from, who made them and what
as recycled polyester, regenerated nylon, and organic manufacturers are doing to reduce their environmental
fabrics, and Bluesign certified materials that have reduced impact, businesses will know how important it is to their
environmental impact by upcycling raw fibres; and using customers. And we all know that businesses are nothing
less water, harmful chemicals and energy to produce. without customers.

020 Travel Play Live

Finalist: Anna Streatfield

#happyplacetpl
 2qy x
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C AT H Y F R E E M A N
 Q&A
with Macpac Ambassador

D A
WORDS BY: TPL & DULKARA MARTIG

Dulkara Martig is a woman enamoured with outdoor adventure. She hikes, rides, runs,
paddles, eats, drinks and sleeps in the outdoors whenever possible – and it seems like it's
pretty much always possible. Born on the West Coast and bred in Nelson, New Zealand,
Dulkara is everything a Macpac ambassador should be: authentic, capable, and perhaps above
all, eager to spread her infectious love of the natural world to as many people who will listen.
We asked her about what it’s like being a woman who’s immersed so deeply in the world of
outdoor adventure, and the challenges that it can present.

What challenges are unique to women in your area
of outdoor expertise?
As a young woman I found it challenging being a minority
in various outdoor groups. I craved female role models and
friends to go on missions with. I’ve always loved whitewater
but one of the reasons I shied away from it more than other
outdoor sports as a young woman was because it was so
male-dominated. I found the culture a bit intense.
I’ve observed different styles of leadership and decision
making amongst women in the outdoors. Perhaps certain
characteristics are more common in females than males.
One challenge I’ve personally found is that in groups
of men I’m often less vocal, less likely to contribute to
decision-making and leadership. As a generalisation I think
women tend to be less confident, doubting themselves
even when they’re highly competent.
How do you overcome these challenges?
I sought out females who shared the same passions as me.
I found a greater sense of belonging amongst a strong
group of female adventurers. As I’ve grown older, I’ve also
realised that we all bring our own special magic to the
world. I used to feel embarrassed at feeling more afraid
in the outdoors than my male friends. I don’t worry about
what people think much now, I’m just authentic. Now
I’m really motivated to get more stories of women in the
industry out there; increase the exposure of women in the
outdoors.
Do you think it’s more difficult for women to take
part in outdoor activities than it is for men?
I’ve noticed a huge shift in the last few years – I think it’s
easier now than it has ever been. And it’s becoming more
socially acceptable to share parenting roles. I went riding
at Wairoa Gorge mountain bike park last weekend with
16 women. One woman breastfed her 4-month old baby
between runs, while wearing downhill kit and a full-face
helmet. I am really inspired by women having families
and still adventuring. I think there used to be more of a
perception that men were stronger and better suited to
technical outdoor activities. That has definitely changed.
There are so many badass women in the outdoors who
have proved otherwise!
Is there a strong community of female adventurers
that you feel part of?
Definitely, and it’s growing rapidly. There’s a different vibe
in a group of women in the outdoors. I personally find it
more relaxed, and generally more supportive. Decision
making tends to be more collaborative and there’s this
softness that seems unique to girl’s trips.
I’m inspired by everyday women who get outside and
empower others to do so, women who instigate things,
bring people together. I’m inspired by my friends. Right
now I’m feeling super inspired by a group of ladies I’m
collaborating with – Ashley Peters, Perryn Lydford and Jo
Guest.
How can other women tap into these communities?
Facebook is a great place to start – there are so many
awesome women’s specific outdoor groups and events
popping up. I think it can be challenging to meet like-
minded women at the start but as soon as you meet one or
two women you’ll find more. For some reason we tend to
hang out in packs!
How can these communities continue to grow,
and inspire more women to embrace outdoor
adventure?
Outdoorsy women need to band together, to collaborate,
empower and support each other. There are many
women’s-only groups and events that are thriving – the
Spring Challenge adventure race is a classic example.

024 Travel Play Live

 It would be cool to see more representation of women in all
walks of the adventure world. But, it will be great when the
outdoor community has evolved enough to focus on people
as simply people, not as genders – and for women to feel
confident embracing the outdoors whoever they are with. I
think the outdoors in New Zealand used to have quite a macho
feel to it. A few years ago, it seemed pretty common for an
outdoor woman to feel like they needed to act more like a man
to fit in – or to prove themselves.
Are there women you’ve been inspired by in the
adventure community?
When I was younger, I was mostly inspired by men because
that’s who I saw doing things that excited me in the outdoors.
But there were a few women. I remember sitting at the New
Zealand Kayak School and Jess Brown showing us pictures of
some epic paddling in California. As a young woman it made
me think ‘wow, that’s cool, they’re crushing it and they’re
ladies’. It made me think that it was possible for me to do that
if I wanted to. More recently I’ve been inspired by many female
co-instructors at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School),
a wilderness education organisation I have been working for.
www.macpac.com.au

025 Travel Play Live

+
 N O C T U R N A L

URBAN
ADVENTURER
WORDS & IMAGES BY: DENISE STRATY (MONKEYSEE)

A swag of women designers across the world are now creating cool urban cycling fashion and accessories
for women. To the naked eye, they look like everyday fashion accessories, but under lights and on a
cyclist, they are glamorous, life-saving adornments. Pieces are subtle enough to integrate into the daily
wardrobe, going seamlessly from the staff meeting to happy hour.

BING! You reach for your phone.
"Hey hey, I'm in town for the night. Love
to catch up. Meet you at the old local @
7pm?"
A glance of the watch says you've got
30 minutes. Laughing with a bestie you
haven't seen in ages versus sitting on
the couch surfing Netflix for a series you
haven't binged yet? You reply quickly.
"Hello! Great. Yes, can do. See you then."
A quick dash to the wardrobe to pull on
your slim fit jeans, merino knit and leather
jacket. You sass it up a little with sexy black
leather ankle boots and bam – five minutes
later and you are heading to the door.
It's dark outside and a mild 15 degrees.
You weigh up your transport options. The
bus you usually take just passed and Uber
is surging. Without a second thought you
grab your scarf and head for your bikes on
the patio. Tonight is more of an upright
commuter vibe than your slick road bike.
The Old Local is just under 6 kms away so
you'll be there in 20 minutes. Perfect.
On the shelf next to your bikes is the usual
paraphernalia: helmet, lights and lock sit,
plus some new, fashion-forward reflective
gear.
5 TIPS FOR RIDING
Gear on, bike ready, you hit the night road AT NIGHT WITH
with confidence to meet your friend. CONFIDENCE:
Life of the Nocturnal Urban Adventurer. 1 Know your route and choose bike
Urban biking is growing in popularity lanes where possible
every year, and fashion is catching up to 2 Wear items with reflective
meet the needs of the people who want properties
to bike in style and safety.
3 Invest in quality lights – front and
As you roll into the Old Local, past the back
backed-up traffic, you check your watch
4 Constant vigilance and make eye
– you’ve made good time. With a rush
contact with drivers
from the endorphins you’re pumped with
5 Enjoy the thrill
excitement, bursting with that childlike joy
that’s so often hard to find as an adult.

027 Travel Play Live

 ADVENTURE
through
ADVERSITY
WORDS BY: TESS LEY IMAGES BY: TESS LEY & MICHELLE MCKAY

There is something about major change that drives many of us into the wild or toward a new
destination. We seek the movement of limbs and strangeness of new environments to stimulate
our problem-solving capacity or to find a lost part of ourselves – as though with each step we are
actually moving closer to some unknown solution. But as with any adventure, it is the journey,
not the destination that brings about more change than we anticipate.

028 Travel Play Live

When first diagnosed with breast cancer – at 32 years old and 20 weeks
pregnant with my second son – the very real fear of significant change
overcame me. I knew, as I collapsed to the kitchen floor, a worried doctor
on the other end of the phone and my husband rushing into the room at
the sound of my sobs, that this diagnosis would change everything.
Within a week, I began the first of what has now become 8 surgeries, over
40 chemotherapies, more than 30 radiotherapies, 3 immunotherapies
and countless pokes, prods, biopsies, blood tests, scans and scares with-
in 2 years. Cataloging my procedures gives a small sense of the physical
trauma I’ve undertaken, but no sense of the severe emotional toll of now
having ‘advanced’ (which is the politically correct term for ‘terminal‘) can-
cer at 34 years old with two children under 5 years.
I’ve lost my job, my sense of security, my life plans, much of my physical
ability, and to top it all off, my travel insurance (which is strangely a real kick
in the guts to someone who loves to explore the world). In short, nearly
everything has, in fact, changed. But in different ways to what I had pre-
dicted.
The unexpected upshot of my illness is the insatiable craving for adventure
that quickly emerged. Whilst I’m the most physically broken I have ever
been, I’m also the most physically active and adventurous. In the past year
alone, I have spent days on end hiking, kayaking, horse-riding, paddle
boarding, high ropes adventuring, snow shoeing, bushwalking and even
an attempt at rock climbing (which wasn’t great after all that upper chest
surgery). Each activity has been my own personal pilgrimage, helping me
come to terms with my impending mortality and profoundly extending my
understanding of why adventure is an intrinsic partner in times of change.
Adventure teaches us to cope with ad-
versity in ways that are deeply healthy.
Just as regular exercise increases your
fitness; regular adventure increases The unexpected
your capacity to deal with uncertainty
and a lack of control. You plan as best
upshot of my illness
you can, but you never come away is the insatiable
from an adventure without at least one craving for adventure
unexpected curve ball. Be it a broken
piece of equipment, a wrong turn, or
that quickly emerged.
the heavens opening above us, we Whilst I’m the most
quickly learn that nature and adven-
physically broken
I have ever been,
I’m also the most
physically active and
adventurous.
ture don’t care for our complaints. You can surrender to your situation and
do something about it (accept that it is raining and put on a waterproof
jacket), or you can complain and get angry, but either way: it’s raining.
This lesson, demonstrated over and over, in so very many forms on my ad-
ventures, has been pivotal in transforming my mindset around my illness.
Because, adventures require conscious attention. Conscious decision
making. Using the rain analogy, you don’t just accidentally fall into your
rain jacket: you must consciously choose to put it on. And with the con-
sistent practice of surrendering to changes of circumstances, and making
conscious choices to improve my outlook, like anything, I am now better
at responding to changes in my health and personal life.
The separation from my everyday life is undoubtedly part of this process.
To remove ourselves physically (not just figuratively), from our home en-
vironment and to place ourselves in a foreign environment is essential to
provide a space for independent reflection. Segregated from the ‘stuff’
that makes us ‘us’, we are left with little material possessions on adven-
tures. Our homes, our books, our clothes, our trinkets. As we separate
from our belongings, so too do we separate from our distractions, from
the third party ‘things’ which form our personal identity. And often, left
to our own devices, we gently (and almost unconsciously), shift back into
our true selves. We can suddenly recognise what is truly important to us.
A realignment with our inner values. I often notice that my 4 year-old is just
as happy playing with sticks and stones on a hike as he is with the latest
Lego at home; the joy comes from the act of play, not the toy itself. As we
separate from the ‘things’ that form the habits, we are left solely with the
act itself and we have no choice but to face it head on.
The pull toward habits while adven-
turing is something I have found con-
fronting, largely because the effort it
takes to maintain any one habit high-
lights the addiction to the habit itself.
I have been known to drive an extra
15-20km just for a cup of tea at 10am.
But the truth is, adventuring causes a
conscious examination of these habits
and an incremental shift away from the
subconscious control they have. We
buy a coffee from the random milk bar
at the local town on the way to a hike;
we sleep on a side of the tent that is
different to the normal spot in our bed
at home; we don’t check our phone
for messages because we already
know we’re out of range. The change
in innumerable old habits begin to
unconsciously serve a whole new life-
style more aligned with our personal
values. We naturally gravitate to an
authentic us, what millions before us have sought, as they placed one
foot in front of another on their pilgrimages to Bethlehem, Santiago
or Mecca. Reflection, clarity and spiritual enlightenment toward their
own personal inner conflict.
Change is inevitable. As Marcus Aurelius stated, “Every part of me
will…be reduced by change into some part of the universe, and that
again will change into another part of the universe, and so on forev-
er.” Whether adventure is a coping strategy for dealing with change in
your life, or whether adventure has been the catalyst for change in your
life, the consciousness with which we approach adventures can often
lead to unexpected (but not unwelcome) enlightenment on what we
wish to do in our short, but very precious, time on this earth.
 NICH

I can remember the very moment I made the decision to go on an adventure that seemed
crazy in my mind, but so right in my soul. And it was in that moment that I knew an
adventure like no other would unfold before I even hit the road.

030 Travel Play Live

Four months before turning 40 years old, I decided to get
rid of most of what I owned, stop giving my dream lip ser-
vice and finally pack up my entire life to move into Hank the
Tank (my 4WD), travel New Zealand and run my business
on the road.
Maybe it was the fact that such a significant birthday was
coming up and I took a look back over my life. Or maybe it
was that it had been five years since my mum had passed
away at the young age of 61 – be-
fore she could do all the things she
wanted to do – that got me asking
myself, “What’s the one thing you What’s the
have always wanted to do and ha-
ven’t?”
one thing you
Life has a funny way of bringing have always
together moments where the call wanted to do
from your soul for adventure is loud-
er than your fears.
and haven’t?
It’s in those moments we expand
our courage and say ‘yes’ to adven-
ture.
We say yes to stepping into the unknown of the ‘how’.
We say yes to trusting that the adventure will unfold before
us as it needs to.
We say yes to allowing us to go for our dreams.
For some crazy reason we get stuck in our ‘groundhog’
day version of life believing that that’s how it is.
Oh hell no sista…. Life is whatever you want it to be.
Now I get to wake up snuggled in my sleeping bag in
some of New Zealand’s most epic places. Sometimes I
drift off to the sound of the waves pounding the rocks on
the rugged West Coast. Sometimes I wake to frost on my
windscreen as the snow capped mountains bring a fresh
-3 degrees.
Sometimes I wonder what I’d be doing if I hadn’t had the
courage to say ‘yes’ to the adventure of life on the road.
I’ve climbed mountains I didn’t even know I could. I’ve
stayed in remote huts, walked through sand, snow and
mud. I’ve ridden breathtaking
mountain bike trails in lush West
Coast forest and rugged, rough
South Island terrain.
I’ve taken Hank the Tank four
wheel driving to the top of a
mountain and sat and cried at
the pure wonder of nature.
When I said ‘yes’ to my soul’s call
for adventure 12 months ago,
never did I think it would change
my life the way that it has.
Even though the challenges of rainy days, muddy gear and
lonely nights has made me question from time to time if
I’m doing the right thing, I can honestly answer ‘yes’, the
adventure of it is worth it.
I’ve found new levels to my courage that I never would
have found. Adventure has a funny way of bringing that
out in all of us.
So, whatever adventure it is that your soul craves, find the
courage to say YES and go for it.
www.nzadventuregirl.com
 Greenland
GRAND A D V E N T U R E

WORDS BY: BRIDGET KRUGER

IMAGES BY: KEITH PARSONS & BENGT ROMO

Ski across Greenland they said. What a grand adventure I thought. But does anyone else have this problem
with wearing rose tinted glasses when dreaming up the next big adventure? Magical images come surging
into my head about how it is going to be. It always involves perfect weather and me looking like a strong
warrior goddess who is absolutely in her element. My hair blowing theatrically in the wind while I throw my
head back in laughter. It is a classic image that accompanies each new far out dream I have. Pity they never
quite work out that way. But to hell with happy endings. Ultimately, we are in it for the story.

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 kiing across Greenland was one of the most difficult journeys I have
ever completed. I was part of a small handpicked team, led by the
New Zealand based Antarctic Heritage Trust, for their third Inspiring
Explorers’ Expedition. The Trust are the guardians of the early explorer
bases down in Antarctica, and the aim of their expeditions is to con-
nect young people with the spirit of exploration.
As an adventure therapist, encouraging youth to step outside of their comfort zones
and be more curious about life is a huge part of the work that I do. I had lost touch
with that feeling myself though, and this expedition helped me regain it by throwing
me over the edge with its continuous challenges.
I have always been strong and I have always been a leader. I grew up in remote
western Queensland and I guess all that country air and farm life prepared me for
the rough and tumble of the outdoors. We were constantly adventuring as children,
and this bubbled over into my adult life where I became an outdoor instructor and
therapist. In my twenties, I managed to live and work on every continent, taking up
every strange and wonderous opportunity that came my way; charging through life
full of vibrancy and flair.
Greenland however, was a different story. While I envisioned myself as a graceful and
powerful ski warrioress, there was nothing glamorous about that crossing at all. Most
days I felt completely useless. It would take me 15 minutes every morning to pull on
my rock-solid frozen boots. After slipping those dreaded ice-blocks onto my feet, my
tentmate Hollie and I would clumsily take down our tent. With three layers of mittens
on, our dexterity was seriously debilitated.
From there, it was anywhere between 10 and 16 hours of skiing before we would set
up camp again. We would ski in a line, one behind the other, and have a 10-minute
break every hour. It was a world of vast nothingness. The best way to describe it is to
imagine being on the inside of a ping pong ball, white stretching out all around you.
Some days the blizzards were so intense I didn’t know where up or down actually
was. I just felt like I was floating in a cloud, waiting to fall out of it.
We battled wild weather conditions including two hurricanes. Each time, we had
to dig our tents down into what I imagined was their own grave. Then we used the
excess snow we’d dug out as a huge wall to barricade us against the ferocious winds.
I had never been in a situation like it before; I couldn’t stand up against the wind or
was blown upwards in my tent from the wind howling underneath it. We bunkered
down for 36 hours at time, snow falling like cement and enclosing the tents in on us.
These delightful moments were considered our ‘rest days’. There is nothing like the
steady drum of 180 km/hr wind against the tent to lull you into sleep.
We often talked about why people are crazy enough to do expeditions like this in the
first place. Our magnificent guide believed that people did it for the suffering. While
We battled in those first few weeks we were still having a great time, our fair share of suffering
was going around. Both gastro and a terrible chest infection swept through the
wild weather group and caused me to cough up blood every day for a week.
conditions We often dealt with temperatures of minus 40 C. Even though there was no real
including two exposure, my legs became riddled with frost bite – believe it or not, the fat in my legs
had frozen. It turns out ladies that cellulite is the gift that just keeps giving, not only
hurricanes. does it look fabulous in bikini’s, but it can also catch frostbite. Because of the illness
Each time, we plaguing us and poor weather conditions, we had to extend the number of hours
had to dig our skiing from 10 hours to 16 hours per day. My body was exhausted and the extra hours
started to bring back brain injury symptoms.
tents down into Five years ago, I was involved in a dog sledding accident where a client lost control
what I imagined of their sled and ran over my head. The sleds we used were 250 kg plus the weight of
was their own two people on top; heavy enough to crush a skull. My vestibular system was severely
damaged, and my brain forced me to sleep for days at a time to repair itself. I lost my
grave. short-term memory and my ability to balance. It took months of physical therapy to be
able to function normally again.
These days, my brain injury affects me mostly when I am tired. My body goes into
survival mode and shuts down everything that isn’t needed to function – including

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my personality. I lose my sense of balance and
fall over a lot. My vision becomes foggy, and
my brain feels like it is on fire. I find it incredibly
hard to concentrate on anything at these times
and noise or over stimulation is like a knife being
stabbed over and over in my skull.
This added challenge threw me into having
to rely on others to help me make it through. I
needed extra sleep, so Hollie boiled water for
me at night before she went to bed herself. The
boys carried extra weight for Hollie and me, so it
was less strain on us. This didn’t sit well with me
at all. I felt like a complete burden on the team.
Deep down, I know that everyone needs extra
help at certain times, but I just wasn’t comfort-
able with being that person.
I realised that my sense of self-worth was
wrapped up in my perceived level of productivi-
ty. This belief system was instilled in me through-
out childhood and moulds its way into my life in
many forms, one being perfectionism. Believing
that if you are not the best or doing your best
then it is not enough – that you
are not enough. If I was sick I
would consider myself to be weak
and ‘less than’ because I was not
as productive as usual.
We often talked
Throughout the time on the
about why people
expedition, when my head are crazy enough other laugh through the suffering,
injury symptoms returned, and I to do expeditions and she inspired me with thoughts of
couldn’t contribute much to the
team physically, I felt so much
like this in the what we could become. Every day we
would pull out motivational quotes
shame. This shame ate away at my first place. Our she had carefully prepared before the
soul, affecting my mood and my
state of mind even more. It was
magnificent guide journey to keep our spirits up. On one
particular day the quote was ‘Pain is
like a deep seeded sense of fear believed that inevitable, but misery is optional.’ I
that I was the weakest link – the people did it for the realised I hadn’t been able to step out
primal part of me was expecting
to be kicked out of the tribe. The
suffering. of my misery to see past the pain of
what was going on with my body and
brain is a remarkable thing. The the shame of being less strong than I
thoughts you feed into it become expected.
ingrained within your reality. In
As women, we are expected to be many different things: A nurturer
short, your thoughts become things.
with the patience of a saint; a passionate warrioress; a fashionista but
Imagine the scenario: there I was in Greenland, telling myself for also an adventurer who likes to get grubby; an empowerer; a pillar of
ten hours a day that I was useless and going to be kicked out of the strength yet a gentle carer; a lover, but a lady on the street; a brilliant
tribe. This affected my emotions and my energy. My emotions were cook; an intelligent woman who stands in her truth but doesn’t voice
rock bottom and I couldn’t find pleasure in anything around me. My her opinions too loudly. The list goes on and on. It’s exhausting. And
headaches got worse with the strain of intense emotions, affecting my if we don’t measure up to those labels and expectations, we are led
balance and vision. It was a vicious cycle. to believe we are not enough.
I knew this about the brain though. This wasn’t new information to What was beautiful to me about the expedition was the friendship I
me. What I needed was a massive shift in my perspective about the had with Hollie. How she accepted and loved me for me – for what I
situation. That shift came in the form of Hollie my beautiful tentmate. thought was my ‘less than’ and ‘not enough’ self. If she and the others
Both of us had been struggling through a lot, and I was just so lucky to could accept me in this state, then why couldn’t I?
have such an incredible person to be with each day. We made each

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On the last few days of the expedition we crossed paths with
another team. We had first met them weeks earlier, when they
raced for days to catch up to us. As a team we were on the slow
side, largely due to the sickness and weather obstacles. In the
early days we had compared ourselves to them, but now here
they were: battered, beaten, and just in front of us – they were a
total emotional wreck. They had pushed themselves far past their
limits and were barely talking to each other.
I was so grateful towards my team for having such a sense of unity
and giving it all to help each other through the journey. Witness-
ing the other team’s lack of empathy towards weaker members
made my compassion for those women soar. I really came to ap-
preciate that, even though we are taught to value strengths – like
being the fastest, strongest, or best at something – there are far
more important traits to value, like emotional strengths. I was not
doing myself justice by judging myself on lack of physical strength
when I have so much more to offer. My migraines and symptoms
had finally started to ease at this point and my energy surged. I
was no longer worried about being a burden, but rather focussed
on making life for these other women more bearable. Even
though there was still some pain, I shifted my energy into joy.
The most awe-inspiring scenes enveloped us in the last 21 hours
of the expedition. It was a magical, fantasy-like day. We started to
see mountains emerge out of the vast whiteness around us – the
first real thing we had seen in 27 days. As the mountains grew
into view we skied closer to the
sea; our unified team giggling,
laughing and finally going
downhill. We were having such
an amazing time and feeling so
The moon rose,
pumped up on good energy. As a huge gorgeous
the day grew into night, the sun fiery orb, and it
looked like we
were skiing down
on a sea of clouds
to meet it.
greenlands
GRAND A D V E N T U R E
035
set over four or five hours, blanketing us in stunning light that
sparkled off the snow. The moon rose, a huge gorgeous fiery orb,
and it looked like we were skiing down on a sea of clouds to meet
it. It was the most beautiful evening of my life, and the images will
forever be imprinted on my memory.
The night turned into day and we were still skiing. Somehow,
through all the exhaustion we could still carry on.
The gravity of the expedition only truly sank in when I returned
home. I had walked across an entire country. Even though, at
times, the dramatic part of me felt like I was being marched to
my death, I continued to put one foot in front of the other. The
human body is capable of way more than we give it credit for
– the human mind even more so. We get so caught up in what
we expect ourselves to be that sometimes we forget to see the
beautiful gift that we can be at all. I am so appreciative of the fact
that I am still able to adventure after the accident, and that I am
capable of the feat that I had completed.
My physical strength doesn’t define me. Neither does being the
best or perfect. The greatest thing that this journey taught me is
to accept my body and myself in all its seasons. While I generally
operate in a flourishing state of Summer and Spring (my vibrant
self) – especially while I am travelling and working – I find it so
difficult to accept it when my mind, body and soul are exhaust-
ed. Giving myself full permission to be in those states, and feel
those emotions without feelin shame, has been one of my most
powerful learnings.
I am enough in all states and
seasons.
Instagram:
@adventuresofawildchild
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 Embracing B U D D H I S M I N

BHUTAN
As a wildlife photographer I have a front row seat for the World Conservation Olympics. While other nations
struggle to live in harmony with nature, I think the small, relatively unknown Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan
may be the underdog that wins the gold medal. During my Bhutan adventure, I learned a lot about Buddhism
and its relationship with nature. I also learned a lot about myself.

WORDS & IMAGES BY: MICHELLE LAWFORD

ross National Happiness (a complex index exhilarating. Here I was in a country teeming with one of the
of the nation’s well-being), does not just most diverse and plentiful populations of fauna in the world,
apply to people, but also to animals. It but actually seeing any of it required luck.
seems to me that the animals of Bhutan are Wildlife photographers don’t like relying on luck. Shoots are
very happy, and this happiness appears usually planned around predictable events such as migration,
to be the envy of intelligent animals in neighbouring states. feeding and mating. Every ethical means is employed to
Researchers are finding that increasingly, tigers are crossing increase the quality and duration of contact: hides, stands,
the border from India and coming to live in Bhutan – if this trackers, and helicopters. In Bhutan, connecting with nature
is illegal migration, the is simply more natural. I had
Bhutanese don’t seem to to let go of the obsession
mind! pounding in the heart of every
wildlife fanatic. The need
In Tango, just outside the
capital Thimphu, my guide
At the Cheri to ‘just let go’ was evident
Dashi showed me a photo of Monastery, perched from the start when I realised
a tiger seen sauntering down at an altitude of my guide, Anjana, was
very knowledgeable about
the road just a week before.
But, it’s not just tigers that
2850 metres in Bhutan’s culture and history
are popping up. Dashi told Jigme Dorji National but she did not know much
about Bhutan’s animals. This
me that elephants cross over Park, I entered the was very different from most of
into Bhutan every night from
Assam, where poachers are
temple and opened my trips where my guides are
active, and then cross back my heart and mind indigenous trackers, expert
in locating wildlife. Instead
into their home territory in
the morning. Somehow,
to the possibility of being focused, I had to be
even the elephants know of relinquishing open. This was not going to
that killing animals in Bhutan control. be easy!
is illegal and punishable by At the Cheri Monastery,
life in prison. perched at an altitude of 2850
Bhutan is a preserve for metres in Jigme Dorji National
some of our planet’s most Park, I entered the temple and
rare animals including snow leopards, tigers, red pandas, and opened my heart and mind to the possibility of relinquishing
moon bears. Impressively, 72 per cent of the country consists control. The monk opened the palm of his hand to me and I
of protected habitat. The happiness of these ecologically took the sacred dice and rolled it for good luck.
diverse habitats has also been ensured. The first thing I Despite my new-found zen, I must confess the intoxication
noticed was that, apart from Manas National Park, all the other I felt during the steep hike down when I spotted a mother
national parks in Bhutan lack any kind of infrastructure. The Himalayan Goral (mountain goat), and her baby on a rocky
only way to traverse these vast wilderness areas is on foot. This ledge. The mum lovingly licked her baby, who reciprocated
has a two-fold effect: it makes Bhutan the ideal destination for by climbing on top of the mother’s head. All new mothers
hiking and long treks into pristine landscapes; and it means can feel they are teetering on the edge, but this mother was
wildlife is protected, not just by law, but also by inaccessibility. literally on a precipice, barely holding on, tolerating her ever-
As a wildlife photographer, this was both exasperating and energetic youngster’s antics. These rare moments with an

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elusive maternal couplet were heavenly. Whether it was high humans. I soon learned (and beseeched Anjana) to maintain
altitude light-headedness or the practice of mindfulness, my a substantial distance from them, otherwise they would
experience was intense. become alarmed and rapidly disappear into the thick foliage.
Although I tried to embrace the Buddhist teaching of not Reaching the village of Tingtibi at dusk, we were greeted by a
forming attachments, I still desperately hoped that the road tree heavy with golden langur families getting ready for bed.
less travelled from Tronsga to Tingtibi, via Zhemgang, would It was becoming dark, and I was so exhausted from 10 hours
yield wildlife sightings. Following the rim of Djime Synge of treacherous travel I felt I didn’t have the strength to lift
Wangchuck National Park, my driver, Sunam, cheerfully my camera and heavy 100-400mm lens. Usually, this would
headed south on the impossibly narrow, one lane ‘highway’. never deter me – I would just will myself to find that extra bit
There is literally no room for road rage here! The road twists of energy. But, there is something about Bhutan that gave me
and writhes like a deranged snake as it clings perilously to the permission to just sit by the tree and surrender myself to the
mountain edge. Every turn is a blind corner. All the drivers experience. In that moment I had no purpose or goal other
proceed slowly and courteously – another expression of than to witness something beautiful.
Buddhist philosophy or plain common sense? Tingtibi is only known to the most passionate birders and
Road works to upgrade the highway added the charm of an is very much off the beaten track. Anjana had never been
obstacle course to the journey. Parts of the mountain had there before, but the queen of networking started to chat
fallen onto the road and with a local man sitting on a
parts of the road had fallen porch and he just happened
down the mountain. Legend to be a birding guide. The
has it that Black Mountain
Forest used to be inhabited
There is something next morning, we were up
at dawn and had the most
by a vicious demon that was about Bhutan that wonderful five-hour amble
subdued centuries ago, gave me permission in a forest alive with the
but Anjana said she still felt sounds of birds warbling,
the demon’s presence and
to just sit by the laughing, chirping, tweeting,
would not suggest travelling tree and surrender twittering, crowing, cooing,
on this stretch of road at myself to the singing, shrieking, and, in
night. I quite agree! the case of the red hornbill,
The long hours on this road
experience. In that barking. Then, to top it off, I
paid off and we spotted moment I had no heard a barking deer actually
three different troupes of purpose or goal bark.
golden langurs. Furry cream After the euphoria of my
youngsters played and
other than to witness wildlife fix, we returned to
squabbled. I captured them something beautiful. Paro. I reverted to a bit of old
swinging away on vines to fashioned retail therapy and
escape or to drop in on an bought an exquisite antique
unsuspecting playmate. Buddha. Anjana was very
Sometimes, the playmate excited and said we would
reached up to sabotage a manoeuvre by pulling on that take my Buddha on our high altitude climb up to Tiger’s Nest
irresistibly long thick furry tail. There were games of chasey (Taktsang) to be blessed by a monk. The hike up to Taktsang
up and down trees, and great feats of leaping from branch is one of life’s great experiences. I saw people of all shapes,
to branch. A mum with her tiny orange baby was very loving ages, nationalities and fitness levels walking together; in a
and protective; allowing the baby to explore a little but then spirit of adventure and breathlessness. Some hikers sported
taking him into her arms when he ventured too far. the latest trekking gear, and some made the rainy, muddy
Anjana had never seen golden langurs before and she was ascent in a sari and thongs. The blessing of my Buddha is a
absolutely besotted and delighted. Now I was the guide and memory I will always cherish. Anjana, like most Bhutanese,
she was discovering another world within her own country. is deeply religious. I am not a religious person, but what
Wildlife photography is usually all about staying very still and was holy for me was the genuine affection and honour she
very quiet, but Anjana could hardly contain her enthusiasm bestowed on me through this gift.
as she raced towards the langurs, pointing and calling out. Buddhism is the key to unlocking the soul of Bhutan. Perhaps
This had a predictable effect on the langurs. Clearly these thousands of monks meditating many times a day have a real
wild animals were totally unhabituated to the presence of effect on the psyche of a nation. The monasteries of

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Embracing B U D D H I S M I N

BHUTAN

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Embracing B U D D H I S M I N

BHUTAN

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Embracing B U D D H I S M I N

BHUTAN

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Bhutan may be remote and inaccessible, but the monks As a psychologist, I teach and practice mediation and
are not. I was struck by the unique relationship the people mindfulness, and incorporate it into my busy life. In Bhutan,
seem to have with the highly respected monks. I witnessed a meditation and mindfulness is not just something you do; it is
beautiful combination of reverence tempered with familiarity the essence of where you are and who you are. Its something
and affection – I guess you could call it love. There are akin to the feeling I get in Sydney when I occasionally
approximately 10,000 monks in Bhutan and I think Anjana, an meditate at a Buddhist temple and experience the power of
irrepressible chatterbox, knows every one of them! communal meditation. I think in the wild, the total absorption
Anjana could not pass anyone without having a conversation. and wonder I feel may also be a kind of meditation. Bhutan
At first, stopping to talk to just turns the dial up on contemplating the vastness of the
people (instead of locating untouched physical and
animals) was a little frustrating metaphysical landscape.
for me, but I met so many Perhaps my next challenge
wonderful people, including
the man walking down the
As our human will be to work out how to
hold on to my zen once
road carrying a new-born calf. population I return home and begin
He explained that the mother increases, planning my next trip as I
had been so traumatised by
the birth she had abandoned
sharing the effortlessly seduce a song
out of my singing bowl.
her baby and he now had planet with other What is undeniable is that,
to be the mother. “She is a species is one as a photographer, I have
first-time mother. She will do expanded my horizons.
better next time”, he said
of our greatest In Bhutan, I took almost as
gently. challenges. many shots of monks as of
Wherever we went, I spoke monkeys.
(through Anjana) to people As our human population
bound together through increases, sharing the
Buddhism and a conviction planet with other species is
that government policy is underpinned by respect for all one of our greatest challenges. What brought me the most
living things. If a country can have a soul and a conscience, joy in Bhutan is the fact that this is one of the last remaining
I felt it most tangibly in Bhutan. I experienced the spiritual protected, pristine wilderness regions in the world. Here,
presence of nature itself while hiking through a misty wild animals have nothing to fear from humans. The
forest of pink and red rhododendron at Dochula Pass. The geography has dictated a humble way of life and the people,
high-altitude vapour was so delicious and cool, I could feel in turn, nurture their little piece of the Himalayas.
my lungs expanding to accept this gift and felt the thin air I discovered that Bhutan is beautiful by nature.
infusing my brain with a natural high.
At the end of my odyssey, was I frustrated because I hadn’t
seen a snow leopard or a red panda? No. I saw extraordinary
temples and was awed by meditations of monks bowed in
silent contemplation. Cascades of maroon-robed monks
dazzled me as they poured down the steps of monasteries. TRIP NOTES
I laughed with men and woman barely older than me; their To apply for a Visa to visit Bhutan, you
faces carved and chiselled by a harsh climate and a harsh life. must be part of a tour and a guide
They were also the fittest people I will ever meet, including must accompany you throughout
the sixty-year old woman who hikes up and down Taktsang your stay (which is a lovely way to get
twice a day with packs of horses! I mastered the ancient art a real insight into Bhutan). You can
of making a bowl sing – it took a whole afternoon of learning join an organised tour, form your own
to relax, while putting enormous pressure on myself to group or travel by yourself. Visit
succeed. I was reminded that seeing truly wild animals is an www.tourism.gov.bt for lists of
extraordinary privilege, not an agenda. recommended tours and guides.
For me, this had been a very different kind of adventure.
Instead of the usual emphasis on pushing myself physically,
the challenges were more psychological and spiritual.

Disclaimer: Michelle Lawford travelled as a guest of Tourism Council of Bhutan. She had a fabulous luxury stop-
over in Bangkok as a guest of Como Metropolitan, and was treated to their famous Shambhala Spa massage and
Glow wellness cuisine. www.wild-photography.com.au

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Finalist photo credit:

Donna Nixon

#happyplacetpl
 Snow BACK
GOING

WORDS BY: ALICE KING IMAGES BY: BEN CIRULIS

At 2am it was -15 degrees outside (and inside) our tent. I gradually became aware of a faint whimpering
noise…and then realised it was coming from me. I was already wearing all my layers inside my sleeping
bag, and there were still another five hours to make it through before sunrise. So how did I end up here,
snow camping in Kosciuszko National Park in the middle of winter?

couple of months earlier, I
found myself in a flat frame
of mind. A string of ongoing
injuries had me thinking about
all the activities I couldn’t do,
and not particularly enjoying the ones I could.
I was feeling unfit and uninspired, just drifting
along from week to week.
It was time to make a change.
I sat down and brainstormed my ‘Adventure
List’. Anything that sparked a sense of
excitement went straight to the top, be that
big or small, new ideas or old favourites – night
time mountain biking, a yoga retreat with my
girlfriends, trying out bouldering in the local
climbing gym, off-road running at sunrise,
borrowing my friend’s dogs for outdoor
playtime. Somehow the list of things I couldn’t
do didn’t seem quite so important anymore.
Anything that felt like a ‘should’ rather than a
‘hell yeah!’ got left off – which was half of my
existing weekly routine. It was like a switch had
been flicked, lighting up ordinary life with the
potential for adventure. But out of all the ideas
on the list, there was one big one I kept coming
back to.
My Dad, a rugged Kiwi outdoorsman, has spent
years talking wistfully about wanting to do ‘the
trip of a lifetime’, a mountaineering expedition
over South Island New Zealand’s Barrier Range.
I called him and said “Are you serious about
doing this trip this year? Because if you are, I’ll
come with you.”
Emails bounced back and forth across
the Tasman. Before I knew it, it was really
happening. In six months time, my Dad, my
brothers, my husband Ben and I would be
spending a week trekking across a glacier.
Crampons, ice axes, snow camping – the
works!
I drew up a gear list and blocked out hiking
training weekends in the calendar. Interestingly
now that I had a big picture goal to prepare
for, some of the ‘should’ things on my list – like
doing my physio rehab exercises – shifted back
to a ‘yeah’ (if not quite a ‘hell yeah!’).
There was just one little problem. I’m bad with
the cold. As in, I struggle with chilblains (stage 1
frostbite) in Sydney’s ‘winter’. Was I really going
to be able to handle sleeping in the snow?
There was only one way to find out. Armed with
a bunch of new and borrowed alpine gear, we
headed for the Snowy Mountains. If equipment
maketh the mountaineer, I was well on my way
there.
After sleeping in the van by the roadside we
started early. Driving into an awakening world,
morning light flooded the fields with gold.
A quick stop for coffee and ski hire gear in
Jindabyne, and we were winding our way up
the mountain, the sky that uncomplicated shade
of blue usually only seen in tourism brochures.
Snow dusted the tips of the trees, sketching
the landscape as a study in white. It was a
bluebird day, the kind that skiers wax lyrical
over. I couldn’t call myself a skier – my couple
of childhood snow trips were distant memories
– but the optimism of the day swept over me
all the same. First time backcountry skiing, with
a pack? Piece of cake. Camping in the snow?
That’s tonight’s problem to worry about. I still
remembered ‘french fries’ and ‘pizza’ – what
else could I need? Right now, there was just me
and a whole mountain full of white fluffy stuff to
explore.

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Ben glided competently off ahead, and I
waddled awkwardly after. Soon the slope
started to steepen, and I looked up, and up,
and up, all the way to Ramshead, a majestically
towering edifice far above. “We’ll just do a
quick lap before lunch”, he said enthusiastically,
taking ten long steps to my every one.
Even with my new hill-climbing moves ‘reverse
pizza’ and ‘sideways crab’, I made snail-like
progress. After an hour of calf-cramping
shuffling, the top still didn’t look any closer.
Thankfully Ben realised his plan might be a little
optimistic and we made a welcome diversion to
the kiddies’ toboggan slope. Some gentle laps
had me feeling much more in my element, and
after a lunch stop for a hot Cup-of-Soup, I was
ready to take on the second half of the day.
We set out on the Cascades trail, leaving the
populated road behind. The hum and swish of
cars and clatter of voices soon faded, swallowed
by the silence of the white clad snowgum forest.
Before us the valley stretched out in a vast
expanse of white, divided by the smooth black
ribbon of the river. There wasn’t another soul
in sight.
As we slowly ascended the backbone of Bob’s
Ridge, a flock of rosella parrots flitted amongst
the gums, crimson feathers vibrant against the
snow. Away from their chatter, the stillness
took on a palpable quality. I could almost feel
it, hushed and velvety against my skin. I was
getting tired now, moving slower with every
step. Our shadows grew long, and the sun hung
low in the sky.
It was time to set up camp before the light ran
out. We picked a stretch of perfect, untouched
snow. Feeling somewhat criminal interrupting
that perfection, we shovelled and stamped a flat
section to pitch on. I had yet to be cold all day,
but seeing our little yellow tent dwarfed by its
icy surrounds, I felt my misgivings return with a
shiver.
We ate our hot packet meals and sipped cups
of tea, watching the last light slip out of the sky.
There is something profoundly satisfying about
reducing life down to its simplest components
– food, shelter, warmth – and feeling body and
mind at rest together.
The temperature was dropping rapidly, so
we retreated into the tent, burrowing into our
sleeping bags and turning off our headlights.
Darkness closed around us like a fist.
My initial cosiness was fleeting, replaced
with a creeping chill. Suffice to say the next
twelve hours were ones of quiet (or, given the
whimpering, not so quiet) desperation, as I
experienced a first-hand demonstration of the
difference between the ‘comfort’ and ‘survival’
ratings of my sleeping bag. The longest night of
my life crawled by, hour by hour.
I slipped off into sleep at one point, and found
myself in a colourfully tiled bathhouse, the air
filled with steam and a hot bath waiting for me
to sink into it. At that point, I woke up again, my
breath condensing into delicate patterns of frost
on the tent roof.
Yet endless as the night seemed, the earth
gradually turned, and the sun eventually rose,
an unbreakable pattern from time upon time.
Our tent glowed yellow in the dawn light and
my heart lifted. As I looked out over the layers of
the early morning landscape, memories of the
dark melted away, helped on their way by a hot
cup of tea. A fresh day was waiting.
It was all down hill back to the van. I seemed
to have the hang of things today with only one
crash along the way. While I skied, I reflected.
No, adventure isn’t always comfortable. But
when the sun comes up, it’s always worth
it. These incredible moments of undiluted
experience, of simply being, are the ones I will
never forget. Bring on New Zealand!
Post script: part of the reason I got so cold
was insufficient ground insulation. I’m already
planning the next test snow camping trip, this
time with a new thermal sleeping mat AND a
closed cell foam mat…wish me luck!

There is something
profoundly satisfying
about reducing life
down to its simplest
components – food,
shelter, warmth –
and feeling body and
mind at rest together.

047 Travel Play Live

 Photo credit: Ben Thouard
u - In Perpetual Motion - Tahiti

O N

T H E R I S E A N D R I S E O F F E M A L E A D V E N T U R E F I L M M A K E R S

We have a long history of fierce inspiring ladies in the adventure world – from pioneers like
aviator Nancy Bird Walton; to Brigitte Muir who, in 1997, was the first Australian woman to
summit Mount Everest; to Terra Roam who more recently became the first women to walk
solo unsupported around Australia – yet still so few adventure films featuring women.

WORDS BY: JEMIMA ROBINSON

As the curator of adventure film tours for more than a decade, the welcome rise in films featuring women is noticeable.
However, the reason for the change may be surprising. In my opinion, it’s not that there are more adventurous women pursuing
their dreams, it’s that there are more creative women behind the camera telling their stories. Filmmakers are drawn to the people
that inspire them – and often it’s the tales of other women that inspire them most. Lucky for us, three Australian female filmmakers
are sharing their talent for storytelling and creating some incredibly inspiring adventure films.

Krystle Wright
A DV E N T U R E P H OTO G R A P H E R
Photo credit: Ben Sturgulewski
- In Perpetual Motion - New Zealand
With over a decade in the industry as a global award winning adventure photographer, Wright
has collected as many inspiring adventure gal pals as she has high profile gigs. The four minute
adrenaline packed short film Where the Wild Things Play blew up the internet in 2017, achieved
well over 3 million views online, and launched the inaugural Gutsy Girls Adventure Film Tour.
Wright didn’t set out to make a female only film: “I like to make films that feature characters,
stories, and ideas that I conjure up in my dreams. I've always been passionate about telling
stories and don't wish to fall into those boundaries that I am nitpicking what sex, colour, age or
background my subjects are. Instead, I believe we should celebrate great content because no
matter what, a great story holds the power to resonate and engage.”
Her more introspective film In Perpetual Motion, lit up the big screen around Australia at the
2018 Gutsy Girls Adventure Film Tour. In the visual portrayal of her own life, Wright reveals
that being behind the lens isn’t always about exotic locations with your adventure besties,
“Some of the challenges that come with adventure filmmaking is being able to work in extreme
environments such as the freezing cold, soaring temperatures and in precarious positions such as
hanging off the side of cliffs or swimming around in pounding surf.”
048 Travel Play Live
 Like her work, De Colling is brave and real. The Melbourne based director
has a talent for bringing a story to life and in the most visually stunning way
possible. De Colling is driven by “...the constant possibility to meet new
Cassie people, learn and explore. It's the desire to push creative boundaries and
De Colling the challenge of weaving new perspectives and creativity.”
D I R E C TO R As adventurous in her work life as she is in her downtime, De Colling has
directed a ski-film in Kashmir, crafted a breathtaking freediving film in
remote Western Australian waters, and is currently working on a feature
documentary with Aboriginal artist Queen Regina Pilawuk Wilson, the first
woman to walk off the Catholic church missionary and spur the 'homelands'
movement.
De Colling credits Sir David Attenborough for her passion for adventure
filmmaking, “Attenborough sparked thoughts of all the wild and wonderful
places in my imagination as a child. I knew that I would always work in
adventure and natural history films. I was always passionate about the
outdoors, and I wanted to see the world and really learn about different
cultures and places. Being a filmmaker seemed to be the only way to have
the life I dreamed of.”
De Colling favours working on films that feature women, “...because as a
gender women are underrepresented both on and off screen. [Only] 7% of
directors are female and 25% of females play leading characters in films. I
am personally inspired by women, they are role models for girls – and I had
very few of them when I was growing up. I think it's important to create and
share as much female-driven content as possible and bring more balance in
the future.” Her stunning portrayal of champion female freediver Ai Futaki
screened as part of the Ocean Film Festival World Tour at over 50 locations
around Australia, New Zealand, China and beyond.

Photo credit: Andy Szollosi
Olivia Page
FILM: WINTER ON THE BLADE
With a foundation in photography, Page’s affinity for the aesthetics
of the outdoor world is obvious. But her love of the outdoors and
capturing images were put to the test when she signed up to help film
the Tasmanian climbing epic Winter on the Blade which recently toured
with Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour.
Her commitment to her craft is evident in the film which doesn’t shy
away from showing the obstacles involved in filming in one of the wettest
winters on record. When asked about the challenges of adventure
filmmaking Page responded: “Everything. Literally. Considerations like
weight; you have to carry filming gear plus everything else that you need,
camping gear, climbing gear, so forth; a 40 kg backpack can be pretty
standard. Access to powering and charging electronic equipment;
cameras, laptops, hard drives. You’ll be carrying a tonne of batteries;
if you’re shooting in the cold they go flat faster. The weather, like rain,
humidity and snow will cause lens fog and internal moisture in camera
gear. Dry bags become your best friend. You’ll go hungry and use things
like rice when you have nothing else to soak up internal moisture in
lenses. Equipment is expensive – falling over, carrying gear in backpacks
or just simply dropping and smashing gear are very real occurrences.
Time limitations and weather windows dictate how much you can shoot.
Sometimes it’s impossible to shoot because of the weather, or too
dangerous – and all focus must go into the objective or adventure.”
Page’s next project is an all-female climbing trip to New Zealand in early
2019. In addition to being an active member of the climbing team, Page
aims to document the expedition and make a film to be released next
year with the assistance of the Travel Play Live Women’s Adventure grant
program.
“Increasing the visual presence of females in the outdoors increases future
female mentors: their encouragement, knowledge and inspiration then
fuels the next generation of explorers, thinkers, adventurers and activists. I
hope that one day we will speak of first ascents, not of first female ascents.
But until then, we must create an environment that encourages females
to dream bigger and push limits. Basically I would like to see, and be
inspired by, more women kicking butt."

If you want to support more women in adventure films, we encourage you to support the
women behind the lens who make these films possible.

049 Travel Play Live

 shifting PERSPECTIVES

in the shifting sands of Jordan

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

It’s my most ‘Frequently Asked Question’ as I’m fortunate to spend my life on the road in a messy work/play
mash up. Unable to define myself I scribble ‘traveller’ in the occupation box of incoming passenger cards.

WORDS BY: CAROLINE PEMBERTON IMAGES BY: ATTA (VARIOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS)

’ve lived both the highs and lows of
globetrotting from polar swimming
in Antarctica to getting food
poisoning on a plane returning
from India. Yes full blown food
poisoning. On. A. Plane. So what’s the
best place I’ve been? It’s an impossible
quandary given every corner of the globe
offers up different perks depending on your
preference. Luxury traveller? Overwater
bungalow in Bora Bora. Adventurous Bucket
List? Camp at Everest Base Camp. Want
undiscovered? Head to Timor Leste.
However, if you asked me ‘Who are the
friendliest people in the world?’ I can answer
that without skipping a beat...
The Jordanians of the Middle East. You didn’t
see that one coming did you?
Hot and exceedingly dry, Jordan is a tiny
desert land. It has no natural resources and
is the second water-poorest country in the
world. Ninety-five percent of the population
are Muslim with a whopping one-third
refugees (an estimated 1.4 million are from
Syria and 2.1 million are from Palestine). It
shares borders with Iraq, Syria, Israel and the
partially recognised state of Palestine, as well
as a maritime border with Egypt. With all the
chaos unfolding in the Middle East I would
forgive you for thinking it doesn’t sound
particularly safe or friendly. And yet…
A travellers’ curiosity has always drawn me to
the Middle East but the sceptic in me long
held reservations. I pondered how safe it was,
how it would be travelling as a woman in an
Islamic country? Did I need to be covered
head to toe to explore? I toyed with whether
cycling knicks would be acceptable or too
revealing (they’ve just launched the ‘Jordan
Bike Trail’ a mixed track traversing the entire
country and I was keen to do a leg), but I
threw them aside and packed another scarf.
The horrific news headlines I’d absorbed
over the past decade streamed in rapid fire
across my brain as I boarded the plane. I’ll
be honest, I was nervous (and somewhat
ignorant).
I arrived late at night, tugging at my long skirt.
At the border I was on the back foot but the
official looked me dead in the eyes, broke
into an enormous smile, and welcomed me
to Jordan before he even took my passport. A
lifetime of airports and that’s the first time I’ve
been acknowledged as an actual person at
passport control.
In the taxi to the hotel my driver graciously
invited me to dinner with his family. No, it
was nothing suss. He had a daughter my age
he thought I could be friends with. By the
time I checked into the hotel at nearly 1 am,
the gentleman on reception fell over himself
to help me with my bags. He disappeared
before I had time to tip him. Far from being
insincere, this open-heartedness became
standard and never stopped. A chorus of
‘welcomes’ followed me everywhere. I was
an honoured guest merely because I was
there.
At first, Jordan’s mighty landscapes; scalded,
parched and hazy with heat, repeatedly
conjures up the question ‘Why?’ Why would
people choose to settle here? Life isn’t easy,
there’s no water, no arable land, hardly a
skerrick of shade. Just sandstone mountains
set in red sand deserts, at most a bristly
scrub. Magnificent? Yes. A natural wonder to
behold? Absolutely. An environment in which
to permanently settle? Umm. Maybe if you
want to live on Mars.
Yet this inhospitable, incredible place is a
prize, and forever has been. Full of history,
it’s the cradle of the world’s largest religions,
the seat of some of the oldest human
settlements. As my guide Ayman says, “If you

050 Travel Play Live

pick up a stone in Jordan you can find a story.
Immediately you’ll go back in time… you can
walk through the history and the culture of
Jordan by just grabbing any stone. Go on,
you’ll sense it.”
It’s true. Pick up a piece of this land and you
could be holding history. That rock could
be from a Crusader castle, a fragment from a
mighty Roman column, a piece of an ancient
Nabataean aqueduct system. This place has
seen both the birth of great civilisations and
the conquering of them. Empire after empire
marked by the moving of sand and stone into
temples, tombs and treasuries. But why? The
question rings persistently in my head as we
start a mountain bike ride to Petra.
As any Egyptian Pharaoh, Roman Emperor,
or present day world leader would happily
point out, Jordan is a geographic gem that
connects Asia, Africa and Europe. Hugely
strategic, it’s been a conduit of trade and
communication since the dawn of time.
Connecting East and West, North and South,
it still plays that role today. It’s been part of
the dominions of the Sumerian, Babylonian,
Assyrian and Mesopotamian Empires. For
a time Pharonic Egypt held its power while
the ingenious Nabataeans rose and built
their empire. Petra, their centrepiece is
recognised the world over. To fathom that
was all BEFORE Jordan was engulfed by
If you pick up a stone in Jordan you can find a story.
Immediately you’ll go back in time… you can walk through
the history and the culture of Jordan by just grabbing any
stone. Go on, you’ll sense it.
the classical civilisations of Greece, Rome
and Persia! The relics of which are probably
sitting heavy in your hand. An archaeologists’
Aladdin’s Cave is an understatement.
Perhaps that’s why, despite the odds being
stacked against them (with a lack of resources
and the geopolitics of the day), Jordanians
are so accepting of travellers. Sitting smack
bang in the heart of the trade route for
millennia they are educated, open-minded
and open-hearted. Their layered pedigree
has given birth to a unique mentality. True
world citizens influenced by everything
they are open to anything. How obvious
that they would be progressive! Nomads
are honoured to the highest degree so the
last thing you need to worry about is your
safety. Your only concern is changing your
perceptions of travel in the Middle East and
how many cups of tea you can drink in a day.
Take the Bedouin hospitality for example.
Flushed and red-faced we were part way
through our ride to Petra (yes I did deeply
regret not bringing those bike shorts and
yes you can wear whatever you like within
basic decency and respect). Bouncing over
desert rocks, ripping through dry valleys and
clicking over the kilometres we came upon
a hessian tent surrounded by a flock of goats
and two camels standing as sentries. A man,
Abu Sabba, appeared, his face etched with
Photo Credit: Hassen Salum
051 Travel Play Live
desert wisdom. One could only hazard a
guess at his age. He had a classic red and
white keffiyeh scarf wrapped around his head
and bright eyes lined with kohl to absorb
the glaring sun. He invited us in. Seated
on Persian carpets laid upon the sand he
presented us with camel’s milk. As is custom,
he drank first to show us the milk was good.
We followed suit but sipped tentatively, it
was sour and warm but not unlike cow’s milk,
honestly better than I expected.
The Indigenous Bedouin, whose lifestyle has
not changed much since biblical times will
always invite in a wanderer. No questions
are asked for three days until finally on the
fourth the host is allowed to ask your name
and intention. The host is expected to boil
their last rice and slaughter their only sheep
to feed a stranger. Under their roof you are
under their protection. They know firsthand
the perils of desert travel, and in turn when
they roam they count on the unquestioning
hospitality of their kin.
Refreshed, we were back on the bikes, heat
rising fiercely from the ground, swirling about
our sweaty, dust coated calves. Our final
descent brought us to Petra. From afar it’s
impossible to distinguish this 2000-year-old
city, hidden within a maze of monolithic rocks
rising from the desert floor. It is this same
camouflage that kept it lost to the world for
Photo Credit:
Rupert Shanks
hundreds of years until a Swiss man; Johann Ludwig Burckhart, arrived Don’t be deceived, Jordan is not all history, there’s plenty of adventure
in 1812 and tricked the locals to let him into the lost city by pretending too. With both a trans-country hiking trail and the Jordan Bike Trail
to be an Arab pilgrim. connecting the length of the country you can sightsee and sweat all
Today, the rose gold metropolis is well walked but still sane. Busy but at once. There’s challenging rock climbing in the Martian-like land of
not bursting. If it’s on your bucket list get there early in the morning the Wadi Rum, and excellent canyoning the country over. If you’ve had
and weave quietly through the narrow slot canyon named ‘The Siq’. enough of the desert you can get refreshed at the Red Sea, diving and
Take your time to discover the kilometre of vertical sandstone sails, snorkelling with whale sharks.
some reaching up nearly one hundred metres as they unfurl before As a keen horsewoman, riding through the Jordanian desert was one
you. At the end, you’ll step into a natural arena and be rewarded with of my ‘must dos’. We set off atop stunning Arabian horses, my stallion
that postcard view of Petra, the famed Treasury, but promise me you was strong and full of fire, yet manageable and attentive. Exhilarated,
won’t stop there – keep exploring! The city is enormous, each tomb, we cantered through the soft sands of dry riverbeds and galloped up
room and ruin fascinating. What you see is still only the tip of the onto a rocky outcrop that engulfed an entire landscape. The Bedouins
iceberg, with experts estimating that only fifteen percent has been set up a billy and boiled syrupy sweet tea spiced with wild sage. As I
excavated and a further eighty-five percent lies untouched beneath sipped my tea looking out to the horizon, my stallion nuzzled into me
the sand. and I had a conscious moment of knowing that this was one of the best
To get the most out of Petra, don’t adventures of my life.
miss the Monastery and the hike However, on our way back, quietly
to view the Treasury from above. Seated on Persian walking our sweat lathered steeds,
Definitely find a local guide to a fellow rider came aside my horse.
regale you with the actual history
carpets laid Agitated by another stallion his horse
of the nomadic Natabeans as upon the sand he bucked violently, one hoof landing
they are sure to capture your
curiosity. Genius engineers and
presented us with on my horse’s shoulder, the other
connecting square with my ankle.
masters of secrecy, elusive to say camel’s milk. As is The searing pain was overwhelming
the least. Their aqueduct system custom, he drank and I lost my foot from the stirrup. My
and architecture enabled them to horse reared and then straightened
literally devise a thriving oasis in
first to show us the his neck as if to bolt. I anticipated him
the desert, thereby enabling the milk was good. We knowing that if he went, I’d come
trade route and reaping the rich followed suit but off in seconds with no traction in the
rewards for their efforts. To me, they stirrups. He seemed to sense my
are the most incognito, ingenious
sipped tentatively, determination and danced on his
and underrated ancient civilisation it was sour and feet, throwing his head before finally
there is.
warm but not calming, snorting, and giving me the

unlike cow’s milk,

honestly better
than I expected

Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

052 Travel Play Live

 Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks

HOW TO DO IT
Travel with the amazing folk
from Experience Jordan who can
engineer any itinerary and are
experts in adventure
www.experiencejordan.com
Jordanian adventures not to miss:
Photo Credit: Rupert Shanks • Hike a part of the Jordan Trail – or
ride a leg of the Bike Trail
• Float in the Dead Sea – the world’s
opportunity to slip down his side. My ankle herbs in the sweet black tea. My hosts broke largest mineral spa and lowest point
swelled immediately to twice its size. I was in into a spontaneous dance because no tea in the world
agony. party is complete without the party part right?
• Smoke Hubby Bubbly (Water pipe
Fortunately, after a quick trip to the hospital In Jordan, life is good, and therefore everyday
flavoured tabacco or Sheesha) with
and a few x-rays later (always an experience moments like these should be celebrated with
the Bedouin and sleep under the stars
in a foreign country), I was given the all clear. song!
at one of their camps
While miraculously nothing was broken (just As you embark on your journeys, near and
• Eat Mansaf – the delicious national
some nasty soft tissue and ligament damage), far, reflect on your assumptions and seek to
dish comprised of slow cooked lamb
I was disheartened to think that my injury change your stereotypes. I’m not saying throw
in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt
would ruin my adventure. all caution to the wind, but rather, allow your
and rice
The next day, we were four-wheel driving experience to dictate your beliefs, rather than
your beliefs to curtail your experiences. And • Explore the Ancient Red Rose City
through the Wadi Rum to climb the country’s
remember, sometimes our misadventures can of Petra including The Monastery and
tallest mountain before heading on to Aqaba.
lead to our greatest moments. candlelit Petra by Night
I worried I was missing out as I joined the team
in the tray of the open-backed ute. However, • Visit the Burdah Rock Bridge in
not being able to walk meant that for half a Wadi Rum (also known as the Valley of
Photo Credit: Hassen Salum the Moon)
day, while everyone else climbed, I sat quietly
by the vehicles with our Bedouin drivers.
Playing charades through our limited shared
language, sharing tea and broken stories. It
was such an authentic experience; one of real
culture versus the ‘canned culture’ we so often
get on the road as we hurry to ‘sightsee’ but
fail to ‘people meet’.
Sitting with my newfound friends, I had one of
the best, most wholesome travel experiences
of my life. Prior to my trip, if someone had
asked me whether a white woman sitting
alone with two strangers in the deserts of the
Middle East was a good idea, I would have
warned against it. But here I was, sitting in the
sand laughing with these kind hearted souls
who treated a stranger like family, realising
my fears were unfounded and my stereotypes
misplaced. I felt hugely apologetic for my past
judgement.
The billy boiled and we dropped more wild

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 R

WORDS BY: TA LISA HIRON

Since moving from Queensland to Tasmania three years ago, I have delighted at the amazing hikes
all over this incredible state. From the in-town trails on Mt Wellington, through to 10-hour days
spent hiking to Cape Piller or the Walls of Jerusalem. But running? That is new.

o date, I had only attempted small bursts of running twenty-minutes to my car parked at The Springs. I smiled a big grin to
amidst my walking. But, following a hiking trip to myself - I was in perfect timing.
Everest Base Camp, I took the extra level of fitness I’d As I began the last section, I pictured my brain in the back seat of a
gained and ran my first 5 km – so damn proud. car, and placed this space just behind my head, watching my body. I
On a recent trip to the managed big long stretches of running on this last
mountain, I decided to mix the two: I section, taking the time down to forty-five minutes.
wanted a taste of trail running. Following a In the slower, steady, running strides that neared
I was on the mountain alone – I usually
hike as a pair – and the track suddenly
hiking trip to me to my goal, I found ease in recognising when to
let my head lead, and when to silence the thinking
seemed a lot longer than planned. My
Everest Base and trust my body. I created a silence within, so my
casual Sunday afternoon introductory Camp, I took body could hear itself and adjust accordingly.
trail run, that I had relished to tackle in the extra level As my confidence came running back to me, I
solidarity, suddenly left me panicked took big strides and zoomed around the corners –
that I wouldn't reach my car before dark.
of fitness I’d leaning in like you would on a bike – with the cold
So, I pushed myself to run beyond my gained and ran mountain air kissing my cheeks.
limits. I got dizzy and anxious until I was my first 5 km – As the trees gave way to the clearing of The
feeling ill. Moments from throwing up,
I managed to find some common sense
so damn proud. Springs I found my little Corolla waiting to take me
home. I realised that there was no point ‘trying’ to
and sit myself down. be a runner. I already was.
Amongst the forest, on a mossy rock, I Deep inside we all know what needs to happen, but so often we
listened to the trickling water and intellectualised that my mind and panic, we doubt, and our head gets so noisy we cannot hear the
body were competing for top spot instead of working together. I told simple guiding words from within: We already are what we desire
my brain how amazing it was, but this was the time to take a back seat to be. We are our best friend and our worst enemy, and we need to
and let my body do what it instinctively knows what to do. create the space for friendship, so a war doesn't take over. We are
When I caught my breath, I got up, and started off with nice big best served by cultivating healthy adventures of the mind and body in
strides straight up the steep sections of the Myrtle Gully Track. As this magnificent life.
I reached Junction Cabin, I saw the sign noting only one hour and www.tahiron.com

054 Travel Play Live

 W H AT
MOST? WORDS BY: KEMI NEKVAPIL
One of the many reasons people come for coaching is that they want to change
‘something’ about how they are living life. From relationships, to career, to
wellbeing, to accomplishing goals, to letting go of limiting beliefs.
ut even though we may want change, it does not
mean that we are not scared of change.
I was speaking with a client recently about her
apprehension to ‘show herself’ as she called it. She is
a woman who has left the corporate world to pursue
her dream of becoming a freelance consultant. She had left a job she
was very successful in, but she wanted a change. She wanted more,
and she felt being her own boss was the way to grow as a person –
offering her own services excited her.
She had everything in order. Her business cards, her website, her first
social posts, she was ready in every practical way, but she was stalling
when it came to making her website live. Her fear of the change she
had worked for was apparent, and she was apprehensive about taking
the next action.
I asked her about this: “How will anyone know what you are doing if
you don’t share what you are doing?”
She laughed. “I’m scared”, she replied.
“Of course you are scared; this is what
change feels like, but do you know exactly
what you are scared of?”, I asked.
“This seems real now. As soon as the
website goes live, I am out there. I can
fail. I can be judged.”
We spoke about judgement: that
she will be judged, that that’s what
humans do to each other, but that
she needed to be discerning about
the people she listened to and the
judgements she took on.
“What was the biggest change you have gone through in your life?”,
I enquired.
“Moving from Germany and setting up life here, as a single woman
with no connections.”
“That is an immense change; what inner qualities did you harness to
get through that change?”, I asked.
She took a moment. “I had faith, perseverance and connection. I kept
connecting with people. Anywhere I was; at the local shop, the post
office, the swimming pool. I threw myself into making my relocation
work. I was terribly focused.”
“So, you persevere, you are focused and you make connections with
people; you also have faith. Would a woman who possesses these
qualities make her website live?”, I queried.
“100 percent”, she chuckled.
My next question was simple: “So, when are you going to show
yourself to the world?”
When we are about to take on anything new, we have fear.
We want change, and yet it petrifies us at the same time.
Yet we have all been through change before, and
we harnessed aspects of ourselves to navigate and
embrace the change.
Being able to get clear on exactly what you are
scared of is the first step to shifting the fear. The
next step is remembering how you have navigated
change before, because cultivating self-awareness
about how you deal with change will transform your
life.
www.keminekvapil.com
Photo Credit:
Prue Aja Steedman
 Always THERE'S

CRITICS
AT OUR MOST VULNERABLE

056 Travel Play Live

 WORDS BY: LUCY BARNARD
IMAGES BY: LUCY BARNARD & ANDREA TORSELLI

In one of the world’s most inhospitable National

Parks, I fought panic as I lost sight of my
transport, and with it, the final opportunity to
change my mind on what I had decided to do.

So began my attempt to become the first woman
to walk the length of the world.
Starting among an archipelago at the bottom
of Argentina I faced a 10-day traverse towards
a meeting point. From there, I would continue
for four days on a sea kayak along a route
so treacherous I had to hire a safety team to
chaperone me across.
Once on the mainland, the plan was to continue
the walk for 3-5 years until I reached the top of the
world.
Things quickly went bad.
Military workers had moved into one area, their
explosives forcing me to change my route. Then,
I lost a week’s food supply due to a flooded river
crossing. While on rations, I received a satellite
message from the safety team: they, along with the
next food drop, were running a week late.
I began to starve.
By the time I reached the meeting point I was
skeletal. I approached the bay and spotted a dirt
road leading towards a farm house. The kind owner
took me in and began to rebuild my confidence.
While I waited for the safety boat, a kayak
exploration team pulled in after failing to reach their
mark. I was in awe! With sponsored patches on
their jackets – National Geographic and Red Bull TV
among them – I marvelled at how life must be for
this calibre of adventurers.
They mused me and asked if I was hiking in the
area. When I explained what I was doing they In February 2017, I began a
spoke among themselves in another language. journey to become the first
They assumed I wouldn’t understand them: She’s woman to walk the length of
naive. She’ll be destroyed by the time she reaches the world. It’s a 30,000 km
El Chalten. journey from the bottom of
They left soon after, and when my safety team Argentina to the top of Alaska.
arrived a few days later I was too worried about It will take between 3 to 5 years
the closing weather window for second thoughts. to complete and when I do,
I suited up and headed out along the first of the I’ll be the first woman and one
islands. of only a handful to ever have
One year on, I’m more than 4000 km beyond that completed it.
lonely farm at the bottom of the world. People Proudly supported by: The
continue to ask me why I am walking – and my North Face, Sea to Summit,
answer isn’t particularly compelling. Australian Geographic, Phase
I’m doing it because it’s who I am. I am neither Zero Australia, Elemental
confident or uncertain about finishing. It doesn’t Projects, XTM Performance,
worry me because if I hadn’t started, I wouldn’t Goal Zero, Art Spectrum,
have experienced the stories that are now bound Fyshwick Self Storage, Armaskin.
to me for eternity. That alone is enough. www.tanglesandtail.com
There will always be someone who wants to
critique you for who you are. Rather than listening,
spend your time with people who support you.
Have the courage to be who you want to be. In the
end, that’s all you’ll have.

057 Travel Play Live

 Australian Ninja

OLIVIA VIVIAN
R E V E A L S W H A T I T T A K E S T O B E A W A R R I O R

058 Travel Play Live

 Last month, former Olympic gymnast Olivia Vivian made history by becoming the first female to
make it through to the grand final of Channel 9's Australian Ninja Warrior - wowing audiences
with an impressive back flip up the warped wall to secure her place. We caught up with the bubbly
29-year-old from Perth, Western Australia to chat about what helps her to succeed.

WORDS BY: TPL & OLIVIA VIVIAN IMAGE BY: OLIVIA VIVIAN

hat was going on in your head when
you flipped upside down on the
warped wall and became the first
female to reach the finals of Channel
9's Australian Ninja Warrior?
Obviously, after failing the warped wall in season one, all I wanted
to do was conquer it. But my first priority was actually getting there.
So, I focused in on every obstacle one at a time and tried not to get
ahead of myself. But the moment I got to the wall and stared down –
or rather up – I knew I had the capability to do it.
The instant I grabbed the top of that obstacle I swear fireworks went
off in my heart, even before I had hit the
buzzer. I was so proud of all the hard work
that went into achieving that moment, and
am so grateful for my entire Ninja commu- Good things
nity who helped me to get there.
come not to
You made the competition all look so
easy. Did you have to work extra hard
those who
on any of the obstacles? wait – but to
The third obstacle always seems to be
about balance and agility. It’s honestly
the ones that
the scariest one for me as I tend to have go out and
concrete feet and don’t move too quickly. et them.
I tried training balance by doing agility lad-
ders and some stairs to build leg power, OLIVIA VIVIAN
but if I’m completely honest, no amount
of training could prepare my heart for the
attack it gets each time I reach that obstacle!
Do you have any advice for women or girls who may be
thinking about joining traditionally male dominated sports
like Ninja?
Traditional is out the window now. Women are totally capable of
participating in sports like Ninja. It’s just up to us to BELIEVE we
can do it, and start training like we can. It’s only impossible until it’s
done, but it takes commitment to get it done.
As a professional athlete and all-round awesome person,
countless people look up to you for motivation. Do you have
any role models of your own?
I have several because I love finding strength and inspiration from
so many people. I was such a selfish brat growing up – honestly,
my family can back me up on that! But after losing my dad when I
was 23-years-old, it changed my perspective and outlook on life. I
now no longer sweat the small stuff and try to be the best version of
myself that I can.
My college gymnastics coach was a huge inspiration to me. She
took believing in oneself to a whole new level. She taught me the
importance of self-belief and backing yourself 100 percent, not just
settling for a level of semi-belief or ‘sort of’.
I also look up to all the strong positive women around me because
smiles are infectious. A confident and uplifting attitude can make
such a difference in today’s fast paced world.
Alongside your physical prowess, what personal attributes
have helped you to achieve so much?
Self-belief is your greatest tool; then back it up with a lot of hard
work. We can’t sit back and wish for things to come our way. Good
things come to those who go out and get them.
I also believe in humour, laughter and smiling. Life is precious, so
remember to stop every now and then to feel your feet and enjoy
the moment.
Given your love for action, what are you
working on right now?
After Channel 9's Australian Ninja Warrior
aired, I’ve been inundated with school, club
and business appearance requests. I try to jug-
gle all of those alongside working in my café
and training. I feel honoured and humbled
that so many people recognise me from the
show and tell me that I’ve inspired them, so I
am focused on giving back as much as I can.
Over the next few months I’ll be training for
upcoming National Ninja competitions, and
then start preparations for season three.
Finally, as a result of your athletic ex-
periences, what advice do you have for
aspiring youngsters?
If I was to pass on advice to other young ones it would be a message
of hard work and patience through the tough times. I made it to the
Olympic Games as a gymnast by being resilient and never giving
up. I wasn’t always the most talented, but I showed up to every
single training session, regardless of whether or not I’d had a bad
day the day before.
www.oliviavivian.com.au

Photographer Iain Gillespie

 lazing
Bthe

s lo trail

WOR D S & I M AG E S BY : M IC H E L L E RYA N

When I was a child, I’d never imagined that as an adult I’d be hiking in so many places throughout the
world. To be honest, I don’t quite remember what it was I had imagined my life to be. I do remember
always feeling I wanted to be free and travel the world – but not necessarily by walking it.

Life always gives you surprises and pathways, and for me women out there living great adventurous lives including
that is the most exciting thing; exploring all that appears in many solo female hikers that travel all over the world. For
front of you and discovering the hidden surprises. the most part, they are more than ok and survive to live
Walking has always been a another adventure.
great way to explore and as I started hiking when I was
long as mankind has been
around we have done exactly
I want other younger through Girl Guides,
Duke of Edinburgh but as I
that. We walked to discover, we women out there became an adult I married,
walked to get from one place to to know that had children and my priorities
another, but with the invention
of powered vehicles, not many
even though changed. As my kids grew, I
started thinking more about
people walk like we used to.
we do live in a me and my own interests which
In recent years I have noticed crazy world, we led me back to my hiking life. I
more and more people – also live in an realised that there was a whole
world out there that I was missing
especially women – are going
back to walking to explore;
amazing world. out on.
discovering not just the nature First, I headed out on local trails,
around us, but also themselves. but before too long this left
In this world of instant news, there is plenty of bad, scary me wanting more. I thought about travelling overseas
and terrifying reports: murders, accidents, rapes, people and interstate to discover their trails. Like most people,
being robbed. But what they don’t report are all the specifically women, I would buddy up with another hiker
good things, it just not as news-worthy. There are many to do this. I think we are programmed to feel like we

060 Travel Play Live


need to do that to protect our safety as
women.
Eventually I realised that there was no
reason why I could not attempt it on my
own. I started to try local day walks by
myself which led to consecutive days
camping out. Then that led to a 645
km trek overseas and a 212 km hike
interstate on my own.
There’s been no stopping me since then.
Last year I completed a 1000 km hike in
the Western Australian bush on the world
famous Bibbulmun Track.
In addition to doing solos, I have been
trekking in Europe on many distance
trails alongside my husband – who
had been watching my hiking life with
great interest and decided he needed
to get a part of this amazing world.
We have hiked together through Italy,
Switzerland, France, United Kingdom,
Scotland, Norway, Austria, and Slovenia.
I have also hiked through Alaska with a
friend – now that was a trip to remember!
I want other women out there to know
that even though we do live in a crazy
world, we also live in an amazing world.
This is a world wanting to be explored
and there is no better way to do that than
by getting out there and walking it.
I would like to share with you a piece
I wrote whilst on my Bibbulmun Track
walk. At the time I was in the middle
of the journey and it had been six days
since contact with the outside world.
I am at one…...
My heart slows down
My breathing becomes a relaxed
rhythmic flow
I feel at ease, relaxed at one
This might be where you would say I’m in
the middle of nowhere
But really, I am on a major highway of
busyness (calm)
I am lost, I am found
I am alone but surrounded by life
That fills my heart with joy
I am one…...
This is life…...
This is living……
This is breathing……
This is me…….at one
6 Carry a Personal Location Beacon.
TIPS
Too many people still wander out on
hikes in the bush and don’t have a PLB.
One of these could save your life! They
F O R WO M E N W H O WA N T T O
are not expensive and can be hired.
HIKE If you choose to go very remote, also
consider using a satellite phone.
7 Carry identification. I always
SOLO
carry an ID card with all my necessary
information so if I have a situation and am
in shock it’s easier to hand that over.
8 Employ S.T.O.P at times of need.
This means S – stop, T – think, O –
1 Do your research. Choose the trail
observe, P – plan. If a situation arises, for
you would like to hike and RESEARCH,
example you think you may be lost, then
RESEARCH, RESEARCH. I can’t
stay calm and remember S.T.O.P.
emphasise this enough as I see many
9 Be focused and aware. I always stress
people on a trail that haven’t done their
research. No excuse these days as the you should, especially if on your own, be
resources are at our finger tips. present in your journey. Always be aware
of your surroundings, this could be a
2 Ask the important questions. How
great help in any emergency or even to
long is the trail? How difficult is the trail?
just prevent you losing your way. Keep
What is the terrain like? Where is it? What
an ear out; don’t put your headphones
is the best time of the year to hike it?...
in both ears if listening to music. I tend to
and so on.
not listen to my music when hiking as it
3 Be realistic in what YOU can
distracts me from my surroundings.
achieve. Don’t choose a trail that would
10 Meet strangers on the trail.
be too difficult for you. Be completely
When you come across another hiker
honest with yourself in what YOUR
acknowledge them. Let them know you
capabilities are: endurance levels,
are aware of their presence by a simple
fitness, and skill set. Never put yourself in
‘Hi’ or nod of the head.
a high-risk situation or set yourself up to
11 Always tell people where you
not make it.
are. Make sure you let a loved one know
4 Train and get in shape. One of the
where you are going, when you will
most common reasons for people not
return, and contact them when are safely
succeeding on a trail is because they
back. DON’T flash it over social media
haven’t conditioned their body to cope
as you do not want the wrong people to
with the day in day out physical workout
know where you are.
you will be experiencing. I see people
12 Carry the right amount of food
having to leave their hike early because
they have injuries that could have often and water. I always carry the amount I
been prevented if they had prepared need for the time I’m on a trail plus a little
their body properly. Don’t be that more to be sure.
person. Learn from others. Spend time reading
5 Learn basic first-aid skills. You other peoples experiences from their
really need to know how to help yourself blogs. Often people are writing these
in time of need. If something should go accounts as they go so their stories are
wrong, like a twisted ankle, snake bite less likely to be glossed over than if it is
or broken bone, then you are your best written once they return.
hope. Ensure you have a full first-aid kit in 13 Use your common sense and
your pack and know what to do with it. HAVE FUN!
Knowledge is power, and it could be the
difference in life or death if something
was to go seriously wrong. If you are not
sure, sign up for a first-aid course in your
local area.
061 Travel Play Live
 Y

WORDS BY: JENNIFER ENNION IMAGES BY: CHRISTOPHER HARRISON

Slicing across a mountain face laden with powder I glide between pines, moving further from the
main trail. A wide, steep slope falls away from beneath my board. From somewhere, behind the trees
or up above, the excited shouts of skiers can be heard. Aside from that, there’s the muffled silence
synonymous with secret stashes of ski-resort snow we all seek out. I’m not on an average hill. I’m at
famous St. Anton am Arlberg, in Austria, staring down an advanced run covered in fresh snow – and
I’m the only woman, the odd one out in a cool crew of blokes. This is made all the more obvious by the
fact I’m also the only snowboarder. I’m acutely conscious of not holding anyone up but I needn’t worry.

y phone reads 6:20am when I wake
at Hotel Schwarzer Adler, built in the
1500s in the pedestrian village of St.
Anton, 100 km west of Innsbruck. I
pull back the curtains in my traditional
wood-panelled room. Staring into the darkness, I grin widely
as I make out the fresh flakes falling thickly in the golden glow
of street lamps. Ullr, the “god of snow”, hasn’t let up since my
arrival from Lech to St. Anton 24 hours ago. By breakfast time,
news that 70 centimetres of powder is waiting is music to my
beanie-ensconced ears. I’m itching to go, but lifts don’t start
turning until 8:45am, so I gorge on hearty porridge and eggs
in preparation for the energy-sapping day ahead. Then it’s
time to layer up and head into the below zero temps – and that
wonderful, relentless snow shower.
We meet instructor Maris beside the main gondola. He
looks seasoned, with the kind of tan you only get in the
mountains and an all-knowing eagerness for what lies ahead.
In anticipation of the conditions, I swap my set-up for a longer,
wider powder board. It delays me from getting on the lifts but
means I’ll have the best gear to tackle the fresh snow and steep
terrain. Next, I get kitted out in an emergency avalanche beacon
and a pack with a shovel, in case things go awry. It’s the first
time I’ve carried avalanche gear and it’s reassuring knowing that
I have it. Austrians are risk averse, which is great for gung-ho
Aussies unaccustomed to the steep pitch and snow depth here.
The gear gives me and my dude-crew a healthy fear of, and
respect for, the Arlberg. We’re not in Kansas anymore, so to
speak.
After a couple of blue-bird days in neighbouring Lech/Zurs,
where the scenery and terrain are dramatic, wild and sprawling,
the conditions have changed drastically. Our powder-skiing
ability is about to be tested. And so it is that we find ourselves
staring down walls of deep snow, tree-lined trails and bowls of
meringue-like goodness. It’s epic and we barely make a dent in
the more than 300 kilometres of ski trails on offer.

062 Travel Play Live

With thighs and glutes burning, I’m happy to start “après” with an
afternoon tea date with one of Austria’s leading female snowboarders.
I sit in the lounge room of Barbara Mossmer’s cosy lodge, Alkira,
sipping English Breakfast and nibbling biscuits while discussing the
very real danger of avalanches and how quickly weather changes in
Central Europe. As the first female in Austria to gain full certification in
snowboard instructing, in 1996, and having been in countless search
and rescue missions, Barbara knows her stuff.
“A lot of people think ‘yeah, I’ve got my safety pack, I’ve got my
beeps’, but they don’t even know how to use it,” Barbara says,
confounded. (*Beeps refers to an
emergency beacon.)
“We’ve had massive avalanches in this
area…” she continues. “It’s a lot of common
sense but, in the end, even people who It’s the first time
know the mountain, who are out there all the
time, they’re at risk.”
I’ve carried
The reality is there is massive avalanche
avalanche
potential in St. Anton, as there is in many gear and it’s
Northern Hemisphere ski resorts. As reassuring
knowing that
I have it.
a result, visitors are prohibited from venturing off-piste (where
it’s not groomed) without an avi kit, even if that off-piste terrain is
considered “in bounds”. This is because Arlberg resorts don’t have
any boundaries telling you to stay in confined areas of a resort, like
there are in Australia. It’s a refreshing discovery and one that leaves the
responsibility of safety in the hands of the skier.
“You can’t rope off that much area, it’s just impossible,” Barbara says.
It’s one of the first big differences I notice when I arrive; fences don’t
exist. If you ski away from the lifts and groomed trails (i.e. off-piste and
in the side- and backcountry) you risk more than your lift pass. This is
something our posse takes seriously, and we
stick closely to Maris. Although a couple of
us have skied in Europe previously, there’s no
denying that we’ve earned our ski stripes on
the smaller, hard-packed slopes of Australia,
where we’re used to zipping through gum
trees and riding comparatively stable terrain
(although avalanches do occur). Here, we
have to adjust not only our riding styles to
tackle the powder but also our attitudes
when it comes to potential hazards. We
become more conscious riders and think a
little harder about the lines we take.
Barbara, who started St. Anton’s
snowboarding school and spent 27 seasons
instructing, has “lost quite a few friends due
to avalanches”.
“So, I always say, if people had as much respect for the mountains as
they do for the oceans…” her voice trails off and we sit for a moment in
silent agreeance.
Skiers and boarders who ride off-piste generally understand the risks,
and, truth be told, it’s this challenging terrain (and the party lifestyle)
that lures so many Australians to this corner of Austria. Over the past
few years, the Australian ski scene has been changing its focus, with
more Aussies going further afield, with side-country and split-boarding
(like ski touring for snowboarders) growing in popularity. With this
in mind, Barbara, who spent 12 seasons instructing in Victoria’s Mt.
Buller, recommends tourists to the Arlberg check out the safety camps
being offered by St. Anton sports shops and sign up for training with
the ski school.
“The thing is a lot of people are actually kitted out really well,” she
says as we finish our cuppas and snow continues to tap on the lodge
windows. “They’ve got the top gear,” she says, “but they don’t know
how to use it; they don’t practise.”
And it’s that last word that rings in my ears the next morning as I pull
the straps of my avi pack over my shoulders and check my beacon
is switched on. Practice is key for staying safe and enjoying the
deep powder the Arlberg is famous for. And it’s this powder-skiing
“practice” that’s the perfect excuse to keep coming back.
 MOUNTAIN
SAFETY
In Austria's GNARLY TERRAIN
Travel there
The Arlberg is known as the “cradle of alpine skiing” due to it being the
epicentre of the downhill ski technique. The five villages that make up the
Arlberg are Lech, Zurs, St. Anton, St. Christoph and Stuben. Skiers will love
the wide, groomed trails of Lech and Zurs, snowboarders will have a hoot
in the off-piste in St. Anton, and romantics will fall in love with quaint St.
Christoph and Stuben.
You don’t have to go off-piste to have an unbelievable ski experience in
the Arlberg. The White Ring is a whopping 22-kilometre trail that snakes
through the mountains. On a bright blue day, the views from the route are
phenomenal and will distract you from your technique.
If you’ve got a posse of women to ride with, check out St. Anton’s “Ladies
First!” feel-good weeks in January, during which female skiers receive
discounts on lodging, ski passes, meals and shopping.
For more about the Arlberg region, visit en.arlberg.com and austria.info/
skiing. Other handy websites include skistanton.com/en, alkira.at/en and
schwarzeradler.com/en/.
Disclaimer: The writer travelled as a guest of Austrian National Tourist Office
064 Travel Play Live
Q&A
with Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is the founder of
The Wild Ones Media, an online
magazine for “people who play
outdoors”. We catch up with her to
talk all things adventure travel.
Jen, you’re currently travelling around the
coastline of Australia with your family and a
36-year-old caravan. What’s that been like?
It’s wonderful and challenging and exciting all at the
same time. You don’t realise just how big Australia
is until you spend days crossing the Nullarbor and
4WDing down dirt tracks in places like Kakadu. We
have a beautiful, varied landscape and sometimes it’s
overwhelming and isn’t friendly to our vintage caravan,
but it’s been a lot of fun exploring national parks and
remote beaches. I highly recommend it.
You recently launched www.thewildonesmedia.
com so you could tell the stories from your
Australia trip but also stories from around the
world. What was your motivation for the site?
I started The Wild Ones because there’s a big gap in
the adventure media landscape in Australia, despite
the fact the adventure travel industry is growing. More
Australians, and more women especially, are wanting to
get outdoors and challenge themselves, and, just like
Travel Play Live, I want to encourage them to do so. I
think it’s important for all of us to reconnect with nature
and to push personal and industry boundaries.
You’ve been a journalist for more than a decade.
What crazy assignments have you been on?
I’ve had some pretty cool work trips overseas, including
one to sub-Arctic Canada where I got to swim in a dry
suit with beluga whales. It was freezing but I couldn’t
stop smiling afterwards. I’ve also hiked to Everest Base
Camp in Nepal, which is a career highlight, and slept on
the banks of the Okavango Delta – not far from hippos –
in Botswana. Soon I’ll be heading to Cape York, the tip
of Australia, so that’s sure to be a bit crazy.
Finally, what do you say to women who want to
start hiking or snowboarding or just get outdoors
more but don’t know where to start?
You really just need to believe in yourself – in your
physical ability and your mental capacity to deal with
challenging situations – and then take that first step,
literally. Convince a sibling or friend to join you on a few
morning excursions close to home, maybe a local hiking
trail, and take it from there. If you dig a little, you’ll soon
discover there are ski resorts that offer women’s camps
and plenty of similar workshops and special days to
encourage like-minded people to live a more active life.
 POSITIVE
CHOICES M O T H E R

WORDS BY: TPL & JOCELYN EVANS IMAGES BY: NICK COVELLI

Right Foot Forward WA is a small outdoor expedition business dedicated to empowering youth-
at-risk. We caught up with founder, and outdoor education specialist Jocelyn Evans to learn
more about how she helps young people build confidence and recognize their own potential.

hat is it all about? The program is designed to enable young people to

The idea was borne from my
passion and belief in the positive
outcomes adventure-based
learning offers, and a desire to see
all young people have an opportunity to access such an
experience.
The initiative is aimed at young people aged 11-25 years
who are largely disengaged from school. The core
explore what it means to respect and be responsible
for themselves, others and the environment. The focus
is on building self-esteem, independence, resilience,
confidence, self-efficacy, leadership and decision-making
skills.
Experienced instructors are always on hand to provide
guidance and ensure young people are safe and
supported.

program involves 5-10 days hiking and camping in the
South West region of Western Australia.
Each day, participants hike to a new camp and are
responsible for all the set up and meal preparation. Other
activities vary depending on the group, but can include
caving, abseiling, rock climbing, mountain biking, and
Aboriginal culture sessions.
Why use an expedition-based camp program?
The semi-wilderness setting removes young people from
urban distractions and simplifies their options; helping
them gain insight into their core values and accept
responsibility for their choices. All the stimulation of
everyday life for young people are removed (including
technology), allowing them time to focus on themselves
and their peers, and learn how to be present.

065 Travel Play Live

 chats and evening debriefs. Without being prompted, the young
people say the most insightful things about perseverance, self-
confidence, and belief in themselves that they can actually do
things.
Among the special moments is when the young people show
gratitude to one another. One time when we were abseiling,
the young people demonstrated such incredible support and
compassion for others who were
really challenged by heights. One of
the boys said how much he had been
inspired by those that had attempted
An expedition sets up a regular
the young the big abseil, because he himself
routine and lends itself to people say the couldn't overcome his fear. As a result,
some of the other young people
empowering young people most insightful realised the impact that their attitude
to take charge of their own
experience. The young people
things about and behavior have on the experiences
are supported to make many perseverance, of others.
of the decisions about the way self-confidence, At the end of the day, I often give
the expedition is managed; the delegated youth leaders some
offering them a chance for
and belief in motivational stories to look through
personal growth. themselves that and chose one to read aloud if they
How does it work? they can actually wish. Sometimes young people are
initially hesitant to read in front of
Young people are taught do things. others, but often by the last night
how to set up a safe and
comfortable campsite it’s great to see many of those who
including hygiene and cooking have trouble with reading and writing
systems, self-care and looking after the whole team. They also learn attempting to read part of the story to
map reading and navigation skills, camp cooking, bush craft and the group.
minimal impact camping techniques. It’s a real privilege to share in the growth and positive change
In pairs or threes, participants lead the group for half to a full day. that occurs in the young people who participate. It’s why I am so
This helps to develop the young person’s communication, planning, passionate about the work that I do.
time management and decision-making skills. www.rightfootforwardwa.com.au
Everyone faces at least one challenge over the course of the
program. Be it physical, mental, emotional or social. Young people
are encouraged to persevere, develop resilience, and explore
appropriate behaviours and attitudes that will help them to manage
challenging situations in the future. BIO
What do you love most about the work that you do? Jocelyn Evans is a qualified and experienced
Many of the kids I see come from home environments that do outdoor education guru. She has led group
little to nurture and support them. My hope is, that as a result of adventures in various locations across Aus-
their experience on camp they are better equipped to make some tralia, as well as internationally. Jocelyn has
positive choices in life. a passion for the natural environment and
For some young people the camp is as much about having a break loves getting amongst it any way she can.
from destructive environments as it is about learning new skills. The When she isn’t hiking, biking, or immersed in
opportunity to simply be in a space where they are valued, trusted, new places, she is exploring the value of bush
and empowered for a week can reboot their energy levels and help adventure therapy, practicing AUSLAN, or
them to cope better when they return home. delivering a therapeutic drumming workshop.

What I love most is what I hear from the young people in the daily

066 Travel Play

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C A R O L I N E P E M B E R T O N
(Miss Adventure)

Finalist: Bianca Aniceto

#happyplacetpl
 ONLY WAY

068 Travel Play Live

 Q&A
Angie Scarth-Johnson
CONTINUES HER CLIMB TO THE TOP

WORDS BY: TPL & ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON IMAGES BY: BERNARDO GIMENEZ

At just 14 years of age Angie Scarth-Johnson is considered one of Australia’s best female climbers.
The North Face Athlete is well regarded in the climbing community for her gutsy determination,
natural talent, and awe-inspiring strength. We have been keeping an eye on Angie’s progress since we
chatted to her late last year, and continue to be inspired by her dizzying array of achievements.

First and foremost, Angie is an outdoor climber. Predominantly When I have a climbing project on, or I am on a climbing trip, I
self taught, Angie became the youngest person ever to send am at the peak of my motivation. I usually don’t need my mum
a grade (31) at Red River Gorge, USA at 9 years of age. The to yell at me to get up or to set the dogs free to jump on me to
following year, she continued to dominate by becoming the wake me – I am up and ready to go, sometimes so early that the
youngest person to send a grade (32/33) in Rodellar, Spain. sun isn’t even up.
At age 12, Angie became one of only two Australian females That excitement and obsession to complete my climbing
to send a grade (34), also at Red River Gorge, USA. Only challenge takes over and nothing else matters. This may sound
one female in the world has achieved a confirmed grade (36) crazy to many people and I don’t completely understand it
and very recently a grade (37). Most elite professional female myself, but all I know is that it is the feeling of accomplishing a
climbers climb between grades (33-35) – which provides some
oal in somethin that I love doing that makes it all worth it.
insight into how remarkable
Angie is as a climber. You seem to be a natural at
this sport. Has being active
It’s no surprise then that
Angie has also made a name When you do succeed, always been important to
you?
for herself in competition and accomplish I have been very active since a
climbing. She has won the
Australian national title for
something that may young age and now it is simply
her age group since she have felt impossible part of who I am. Without it I
would go insane. Every day,
was seven and was recently
selected to compete
for you there is no I am either climbing rocks,
internationally in The World other feeling like it in bushwalking with dad, bike
Youth Competitions. She the entire world. It’s riding with mum or even just
taking my dogs for a walk around
is hoping to work and train
towards the Oceania Olympic
almost impossible to the street. It doesn’t have to be
qualifying competition in explain this feeling; it’s hard or planned; this is what
early 2020, in which one like you are truly alive! makes it fun and encourages me
female and one male will be to do it again and again.
selected from the Oceania I was very lucky to have found a
region to compete in Tokyo
physical activity that encouraged
2020. This will make Angie the youngest Australian eligible
a love for adventure and an outdoor life style at such an early
for selection at just 15 years of age (she will be turning 16 that
age. I see being active as essential to my life, like eating or
year). As an outdoor climber, the competition will be a huge
drinking water.
undertaking and challenge for Angie. She will need to be
proficient at three disciplines: speed, lead and bouldering, The routes you tackle are incredibly tough and must be
which is different from outdoor climbing where people often exhausting. How do you keep yourself going?
specialise in one or two, mainly lead and bouldering, never It’s hard to mentally pick yourself up and keep going when you
speed. feel as though everything in the world is preventing you from
Angie took a few moments out from training on her latest project achieving your goal. But I learned from an early age that great
to tell us about what drives her to be at the top of her game. success can only be achieved by failing a few times. Those who
can learn from failure – rather than give up – are the only ones
There are plenty of early starts in climbing. What
who can truly reach their final goal.
motivates you to get out of bed each morning?
Generally, my motivation comes from knowing that I have an When you do succeed, and accomplish something that may
amazing life ahead, one which includes everyday goals and have felt impossible for you there is no other feeling like it in the
challenges like training, school work or just hanging out with entire world. It’s almost impossible to explain this feeling; it’s like
friends. you are truly alive!

069 Travel Play Live

 I learned from an early
age that great success
can only be achieved
by falling a few times.

You seem pretty fearless on the rock. Is there anything

outside your comfort zone that you’d like to try?
Rock climbing is only the start of many adventures and
challenges that I hope to have. There are so many things I’d
love to try that fall out of my comfort zone: ice-climbing and
mountaineering really scare me, but I would absolutely love to
give it a go. I would love to do some big wall stuff, maybe at
Yosemite, sleeping on a portaledge (a hanging tent) is a dream
of mine. But I am also keen to do things that don’t include rock
like paragliding, skiing and surfing.
Next month I am going on an amazing adventure to do
something that I have always wanted to do. I am headed to a
fairly isolated Pacific Island call Eua, off the main Island of Tonga
to learn how to find and develop new climbing routes. While it
is still rock climbing, it will be a challenge and certainly outside
my comfort zone. The island has so much awesome rock and
has the potential be a future destination for many Australian and
New Zealand climbers.
Experiences like this are what keep me excited about always
trying new things and pushing the boundaries for young
women. While trying something new and out of my comfort
zone is scary in so many ways, not knowing what lays ahead is
what makes the adventure more interesting and worthwhile.
It is incredible to look at what you have already
accomplished. What has been one of your proudest
moments?
I’m proud of all my adventures but one of my biggest
achievements was the 8c+ (34) that I sent in America. It was the
hardest I have ever mentally and physically pushed myself. Both
the weather and time were against me and I was exhausted. I
had no skin on my fingers and I was only 12 years old. I was so
incredibly proud that I didn’t give up. All the blood sweat and
tears, literally, that I put into that climb paid off, and I achieved
something that only one other person of that age had ever
achieved. I will never forget that amazing feeling.

070 Travel Play Live

ANGIE
MOVES
MOUNTAINS
ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON, STUDENT/CLIMBER/ANIMAL WHISPERER
SEE HER STORY AT THENORTHFACE.COM.AU/SHEMOVESMOUNTAINS.
PHOTOS: SIMON CARTER

TM
NEVER STOP EXPLORING
SUBSCRIBE YOUR
WILD CHILD NOW!
www.bellaraemag.com

2 Tr v l Play
a Live
 ifeth
te naglw
Criemam
br i i

s i o n
PURPOSE +

P a s I am in awe of you, warrior woman.

I see you there, embracing your wild side, throwing off the weight of
worry, expectation and doubt to forge your own vibrant trail over the
crests and through the valleys of life.
You’re doing it!
You’re travelling with purpose and generosity.
You’re playing with wonder and delight.
You’re living with integrity and wholeheartedness.
I see you cultivating a caring, connected community and I want in!
But I’m not here alone – I’m bringing my whole girl gang with me.
Chances are you already know one of them. They’re a diverse bunch,
a mixed mob. They’re young and fierce, angry and selfish, anxious,
smart, hopeful and afraid. They’re growing up in a world of glowing
screens and mental health struggles, and they need you. Though
our gals can seem standoffish, don’t doubt the impact you can have.
They’re watching closely. They’re in desperate need of your wisdom
and encouragement – to fall in love with nature and adventure and
to learn to nurture their bodies and their souls. And when they won’t
listen, give them something good to read.
This is the heart behind your sister in stories – bella rae magazine.
We’re an independent, Australian, print publication too. We believe
in collaboration, not competition, and we hope our readers will grow
into readers of Travel Play Live and other worthy, uplifting media –
because you know while sex, scandal and celebrity sells, it doesn’t
nourish young hearts and minds. You know at times it takes fierceness
and fight to create a life brimming with purpose and passion.
Storytelling has long been an artform which connects and ignites us.
Can we stand together? Because my squad needs yours and I think
you need us too. Count us in – we’re with you.
With love, cartwheels, corn chips and salsa,
Henrietta and the bella rae team

073 Travel Play Live

The Travel Play Live Women's
ADVENTURE
GRANT
PROGRAM
Supporting Epic Women
and their Adventures

Grant Categories
Please note: This grant program is not currently
open for submissions.
1. EXPEDITIONS FOR CHANGE
This category was for applicants whose primary goal of their
adventure is to create change locally, nationally or globally via
their project or expedition. This category was open to:
• Scientists and conservationists who may be conducting
fieldwork in intrepid, extreme or remote locations.
• Explorers and adventurers who are using their expedition to MA J O R PA R T NE R

raise awareness on social or environmental causes.

• Women forging new ground in the adventure arena and
challenging boundaries
2. ADVENTURE FILM & PHOTOGRAPHY
For female photographers, documentary makers or filmmakers MA J O R S U P P O R T E R S

who are capturing the heartbeat of adventure across the globe.

This category was open to creative women who are equally as
adventurous as the subjects or locations whose story they are
telling.
3. YOUNG ADVENTURERS
For young women adventurers under 18 years of age who FO U NDI NG PA R T NE R S

are pioneering the way for their generation to embrace the

heartbeat of adventure.
Funding may also be used to participate in skills training or
competing at a national or international level in outdoor pursuits.
4. WOMEN ADVENTURERS OVER 50
ME DI A S U P P O R T E R
For women 50 and over pushing the boundaries of expectations
when it comes to adventure.

074 Travel Play Live


Photo Credit: Circuit Climbing
Photo Credit: Mickey Williams Snow
An Update from the Recipients
Adventure Film & Photography
O L I V I A PA G E
It’s been an insane few weeks deciding our route. Right now our sights are set high onto the
exposed ridge-lines linking Terror Peak, Danger Peak and Lady of the Snows. To our knowledge,
no one has attempted parts of the traverse due to the exposure and complicated terrain.
Currently Liz is on a North American climbing jamboree, Rosie is getting ready for a trip to
Yosemite and Ana is in Fiordland working hard in the snow and rain to pay off ice tools. I, Olivia,
am madly trying to recover from a TFCC tear to my left wrist and ogling at topographic maps.
Expeditions For Change
LISA EDMONDS & HELEN SMITH
With seven weeks to go before our Camino adventure begins preparation is all going well and on
track. Most of our training is achieved in the outdoors where we love to be. Some training involves
being in a gym. We are preparing to ensure appropriate maintenance is performed on our equipment
so we give ourselves the best opportunity of completing the pilgrimage. We are getting very excited,
and nervous, all at the same time but cannot wait to get to Portugal to see what awaits us.
Young Adventurer
LEAH JEFFRIES
I am about half way through my month and a half trip with the Youth World Climbing
Championships and the senior boulder world cup is done. This year, in the Youth World
Championships, I competed in all three disciplines (being lead, boulder, and speed) with my
best result being 32nd in bouldering out of a strong field of over 70. At the moment I am on a
train traveling through the scenic countryside of Germany on my way to Frankfurt. My coach, Alex
Mcinnes, another Australian athlete and myself are traveling around Europe training in some of
the worlds best indoor climbing facilities to help us prepare for the open world championships.
Women Adventurers over 50
J A C I N TA WA R L A N D
My first few attempts to get access to these sites was a bit rushed. I have now gained
permission and support from the local Traditional Owner groups to go out on country and
photograph their respective women’s sites, so we can do some editing and get these amazing
places onto the special places to go. Spending time to get the right feel for each space will, in
my view, help raise the understanding and value of these important cultural places.
Young Adventurers
EVE DOWLEY
I’ve been over in NZ (Cardrona) training for the Junior World Championships as part of
the Audi Winter Games where I am part of the Australian Park and Pipe team. I am the
only snowboarder (male or female) representing Australia for Park and Pipe so feel pretty
privileged. I was stoked to place 12th in the junior World Big Air comp earlier this week and
super excited to compete tomorrow in my favourite event, slopestyle.
075 Travel Play Live
L A
I N S P I R I N G J O U R N E Y S

We love to hear about people doing amazing

things and wish Laura all the best of luck
with her epic undertaking.

WORDS BY: LAURA MARSHALL IMAGES BY: ERIN FOLEY

ater this month, Canberra secondary school

teacher Laura Marshall will attempt to
become the first ever solo Australian woman
to complete one of the world’s toughest
ultra-endurance triathlons from London to
Paris – the Enduroman Arch to Arc. The event involves
three gruelling legs: 140 kilometre run from the Marble
Arch in London to the coast of Dover, a 33 kilometre
swim across the English Channel, and finishes with a 292
kilometre cycle from Calais to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

Since 2001, there have only been 32 solo athletes to

complete the truly challenging event, eight of which
have been women. However, to date, no solo Australian
women have attempted the remarkable feat! Laura will be
the first.
Laura is working hard to raise funds to take part in the event
with 50% of all donations raised through her GoFundMe
page going directly to beyondblue.
If you’d like to support and follow Laura on her Enduroman
Arch to Arc journey check out her website at
www.LauraMarshallA2A.com

076 Travel Play Live

 An ode to my
OUTSIDE
The me on the trail is different to the me in real life. In real life, I’m constantly questioning if I’m
where I should be. I’m in my thirties and live in a shared apartment; I don't have any savings, a
partner or kids; my closest friends are back home in the UK. To put it into perspective, six months
ago on the day I bought a little tent my housemate bought an apartment.
According to a Google search (yeah I know,
never trust Dr Google), I’m in my sexual
prime; becoming less attractive to the
opposite sex by the day; likely to never own
my own property outright; should have set
up a pension 15 years ago; and have nearly
reached my max earning potential.
In real life, I’m constantly self-conscious
of how I look. My body. My rosacea. And
although I kid myself that I don’t care what
others think of me – I do.
Not to mention the fact that I get knee pain
when it’s cold, and I now get hangovers after
three schooners. Jeez, pass me some fluffy
slippers and a comfy chair will you? I need to
sit down.
Yet out on the trail, it all just melts away.
The outdoors changes me. There’s less
judgement. Of myself, my looks, my body,
my life, and if I’m truthful, of others. When
I’m in the outdoors I feel as though I’m
exactly where I should be. In the outdoors
I feel stronger, more capable and more
focused.
I no longer care about what I’ve achieved
in life because I’ve just achieved something
Self
WORDS BY: BROOKE NOLAN
amazing. Right here. Right now. Right in this
very moment.
In the outdoors, I no longer hate my body.
Why? Because it got me here. It got me up
this big ass mountain. It carried this big ass
heavy pack (yes, a camp chair and bottle of
red are essential). In the outdoors, it’s no
longer about how my body looks but what
my body can do.
I no longer question where I am in life.
Because, if I could choose anywhere in the
world it would be right here, right now.
The sun on my face, the wind in my hair, a
campfire, a sunset, the stars above me as I
drift to sleep. That strange breed of silence
you only get in nature.
The outdoors me is a better person.
I care less about what others think. I stress
less. After all, when you’re on the trail what
is there to think about? Shall we take a break
now or later? What’s for dinner? Shall we
watch sunrise or sunset? Ah screw it. Let’s
do both.
I didn’t discover the power nature had on me
until a few years ago when I hiked the Inca
Trail for my 30th birthday. It’s like a switch
078 Travel Play Live
went off inside me and it’s been my focus
ever since. I moved to Australia with one
goal: to spend more time outside.
If you’d told my younger self that I’d be
most happy hiking, sleeping in a grimy and
sporting a hefty dose of thigh chafe I would
have pissed myself laughing. But here we
are.
I often wonder what I would be like if I’d
discovered the outdoors sooner. Whether
some of my hang ups and insecurities would
still be part of who I am. But I’ll never know.
What I do know, is that I’m grateful that I did
discover the outdoors. I’m grateful for the
moments of reprieve. Reprieve from a world
of carefully curated Insta-feeds that make you
question if you’re good enough. Reprieve
from that invisible timeframe that we’re
apparently supposed to follow.
My only wish now is that I can learn to take
those feelings home with me. Although, with
each trip that gets a little easier. Who knows?
Maybe one day I’ll feel on top of the world
when I don't have thigh chafe. Now that’d
be nice.
 BATHE IN NATURE
WORDS BY: LYNDALL MITCHELL

Nature is freedom, nature is connection, nature is jaw dropping

beauty, nature is fresh pure air, nature is peaceful, nature is

20
the ocean that travels to the horizon, nature is the lush tropical
valley that travels as far as the eye can see – the place where
everything just is. Nature offers us one of the most reliable
boosts to our mental and physical well-being, spending time
outside opens our minds and sharpens our thinking.

ature shows us a sense of freedom, and that there is no such TOP WAYS
thing as perfection. There is no perfect tree or perfect flower; to get nature play back
they are all beautiful and we accept and love that about nature. on your list, young or old.
So, when we are in nature, we are more accepting of our
surroundings and therefore of ourselves. We take the pressure
off perfection, and bathe in the beauty that surrounds us. This is nourishing for
our minds, and the more we take moments and pauses in nature, the more we
replenish our precious bodies, minds and souls.
Our modern lifestyle has pulled us to spend more time inside – away from
nature. And, as much as you know it’s good for you to get outside for fresh air
and vitamin D after being indoors at work all day, when you see the lure of the
couch at the end of a long afternoon, suddenly just the thought of going for a
walk outside can seem unappealing and exhausting.
Getting away from big buildings, technology and noise on a regular basis makes
you happier, more at peace and grounded. We need space. When we get out
in nature we are prompted to listen to our bodies and find a natural rhythm in the
surroundings. The urgency, deadlines and ‘clock time’ melt away. Instead, we 1. Gaze at the sky, looking at the stars.
are guided by the sunrise, sunset, the seasons, and all their innate beauty. Once 2. Relax on a park bench (Forrest Gump-style).
we make that effort to get out in nature, time slows down, and we can see that 3. Play pareidolia with the clouds (looking for
adaptability is the key to success. No day is the same, no weather pattern is the shapes and objects in the clouds).
same, yet nature flows with it all. 4. Watch a sunrise, sunset, or both.
5. Get back into loving your garden,
Scientists are beginning to find evidence that being in nature has a profound
plant your own vegetables.
impact on our brains and our behaviour; helping us to reduce anxiety, brooding,
6. Listen to night sounds like crickets chirping.
and stress; and increase our attention capacity, creativity, and our ability to
7. Do yoga poses outside, which you may find more
connect with other people. Make it a habit to spend more time in nature:
soothing than indoors.
exercise outside instead of going to the gym; read outdoors; organise weekend
8. Visit a nearby river or creek (or urban park with lots
nature getaways; have lunch outdoors; take your shoes off and walk barefoot;
of fountains) and listen to the water flow.
spend as much of your weekends as you can out in nature. At the very least, get a
9. Have a picnic in a public garden.
plant for your office. Live your best life by spending more time in nature.
10. Look for four-leaf clovers with your children.
Natural sense 11. Book a rock climbing, kayaking, or sailing lesson
to try a new outdoor sport.
One way to maximise your connection to nature is to acknowledge sensations.
12. Have a fire pit in your own back yard at night
Stop and think about the feeling of the cool air on your skin, the fresh scents you
with friends.
smell, the vibrancy of colours and organic shapes you see, the relaxing sounds
13. Participate in a community clean-up project.
you hear, and the variety of textures around you.
14. Hike somewhere you have never been before.
Take a minute to put your hands on the soft moss, the smooth bark on the tree 15. Take a walk in your neighbourhood
or let sand run through your fingers. Take off your shoes and feel the ground (and stop and talk with your neighbours).
beneath your feet, bringing your attention to whether it feels hard or soft, cool or 16. Take photos of nature. Frame them or put them
warm, damp or dry. on your desk or in your diary.
This is called being ‘present’ and is a form of meditation. Clearly, everyone’s 17. Watch the moon go through its phases.
access to nature is different, but it is worth taking opportunities to connect with 18. Walk through a park to work.
nature when you can. Nature is magic. And nature is free. Nature helps to top up 19. Have lunch in a park.
our tank and gives us space. That space helps to park our worries and reconnect 20. Plan your holidays in nature.
to what helps us to live lives of meaning and joy.

079 Travel Play Live

 0   yr
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LY N D A L L M I T C H E L L
Finalist: Cassie Harrison

#happyplacetpl
 CONSCIOUS LEARNING
A KEY TO WELLBEING
WORDS BY: SHANNAH KENNEDY

Shannah Kennedy and Lyndall Mitchell, founders of The Essentialists, believe our conscious
choices, habits and behaviours are vital keys to creating powerful results in all areas of our lives.
Their latest book ‘SHINE - 20 Secrets to a Happy Life’ offers practical techniques to increase focus,
reduce distractions and improve wellbeing. The following is an excerpt from Chapter 13: Learn.

From the moment you are
born to the moment you
depart our world you will
never stop learning. Our
dedication to this skill and
practice will allow your life to be enriched,
nourished and greatly enhanced. It may
not be in a traditional classroom setting,
or a conscious decision, but we are always
experiencing life which is your best daily
dose of teaching. However, commitment
to lifelong conscious learning is one of
your most worthwhile processes as it will
broaden your taste, perspective, tolerance
and understanding of the world. The power
of learning drives change and growth,
inspiration and motivation in life.
Evidence and research is showing that there
is a direct correlation between individuals
who strive for growth and learning in their
personal lives, and those who thrive in their
professional lives. This can be accomplished
by committing to the concept of lifelong
learning.
Learning is when you gain a mental or
physical grasp of a subject, when you take
ownership of some new knowledge and
broaden your understanding of a topic.
Learning involves thinking and involves
our whole being, senses, feelings, beliefs,
values, intuition and our will to grow. If you
are not interested in learning, you will not
learn. Learning as a skill will depend on
not only your ability but your motivation,
personality, learning style and openness to
want to develop as a person. It is an internal
and intentional activity and one of the highest
rated personal development tools.
As you grow and age, you can become wiser
but often more complex as the world around
you gives you more responsibilities. The
world is awe inspiring and in understanding
many different areas in life we get to
appreciate it a whole lot more. Learning adds
to the excitement of your life, and assists with
making sense of the world in which you live.
A commitment to learning keeps your brain
and mind expanding and more engaged,
rather than just existing. Your mind needs
stimulation in order for it to work at its optimal
level and by continually learning you can
actually improve your brain function as you
age. Learning will also assist you to be able to
deal positively with changes in life as you are
likely to require new tools and knowledge as
you navigate through each decade. Leaders
are learners, the best in the world are full
time learners and committed to continual
upskilling and education.
The pursuit of knowledge is easier and more
accessible than it has even been. Technology
advances have opened the world of
knowledge up and you can access and relay
information instantaneously. But first and
foremost you need to be willing to expand
your mind, your knowledge and decide to
leave your comfort zone, to shed light on
ideas that can expand your vision.
TOP REASONS TO COMMIT
TO CONSCIOUS LEARNING
• Strengthen and enhance your skills.
• Stay up to date with technology.
• Fight boredom patches in life.
• Increase confidence, resilience and
social awareness.
• Increase your earnings in life.
• Grow your career, become a valuable asset.
• Become an expert in your field.
• Improve your brain fitness.
• Experience personal fulfilment.
• Positive role modelling for your children.
• Sustain hope and motivation in life.
• Increase your happiness.
• Gain a new perspective as you
experience life’s ups and downs.
HOW TO LEARN
There are many simple, effective and
realistic ways to implement daily learning
opportunities that do not have to
inconvenience your life.
Choose and focus on topics that you are truly
interested in to kick start yourself and topics
that will support your vision and goals. Also,
be open and keep a liberal view on new
creative opportunities for yourself to move
forward.
• Set some learning goals.
• Commit to a new learning each month.
• Formal classroom – sign up to a course.
• Books – read all styles of books, fiction,
non fiction, book clubs.
• E-books – great for reading when in transit
so you don’t have to carry bigger books.
• Writing – unlock and learn what your deep
thoughts are and find clarit.y
• Conferences – attend to learn and network
with likeminded people.
• Travel – an incredible form of education.
• Interview people – start a book and
interview people to learn from them.
• Audio books – efficient, can learn whilst
driving, walking, resting.
• Attend lectures.
• Watch documentaries.
• Volunteer.
• Bite size leaning – Ted talks, webinars,
podcasts.
Remember education over entertainment is
what will bring about your best possible life
www.theessentialists.com.au

082 Travel Play Live

O x f a m Tr e k t o
Ta c k l e P o v e r t y
15–25 A p ri l 2 01 9

Our
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Join us for the adventure
of a lifetime in northern Vietnam.
Trek through the lush rainforests and terraced rice fields of Sapa Valley.
Explore remote villages and see our life-changing work up close when you
visit a community where we are empowering women to make a living.

For more in at /oxfamtrek

 N E V E R T O O O L D

Sur f G r o m !

Surfing is more than a sport – it’s a lifestyle. It provides you with a happy place and a
good surf can put a smile on your face that will last for days. When first learning to surf,
your focus might be on the technical aspects of surfing such as improving your pop-
up and developing your understanding of the ocean. But before too long, you will start
daydreaming about the perfect wave and counting down the days until your next surf trip.

WORDS BY: SURF GETAWAYS & SURFER ANDI WALLACE

084 Travel Play Live

 ndi Wallace is a perfect
example of a woman, in her
early 40s, who decided it’s
never too late to learn to
surf. She took the leap last
year and signed up to a women’s surf trip.
Before joining, Andi had never surfed and
wasn't even a confident swimmer, yet she
made the life-changing decision that this
was her time to realise a dream.
After her first few surf lessons she was
hooked. Andi returned home with a brand-
new wetsuit and committed to regular surf
coaching.
"I never really thought much about
surfing,” says Andi, “I mean, I drooled over
Kelly Slater in magazines as a teenager
and thought he was hot/cool but didn't
everyone?
A few incidences in my teens and 20s made
me shy away from most water activities.
Coming from New Zealand, people expect
you to be a water baby, but I was the ‘sit on
the beach in the sun’ type as opposed to
getting in there.
That changed on a trip to Bali in August
2017 (I was in Bali after all). I arranged a surf
lesson at Balean Beach but forgot about Bali
time and the lesson was cancelled twice –
maybe it wasn't meant to be. But something
was drawing me to surfing, I started
following surfing pages and watching surf
videos.
I had read about some female surf trips –
which appealed to me as a supportive and
safe way to learn. I loved Byron Bay and after
talking to Jenny Boggis, a former pro-surfer
who co-founded Surf Getaways, I instantly
wanted to sign up. So, I did!
The sign-up forms asked if I could swim 50
metres. Heck I thought, I doubt I could swim
5 metres! But I didn't want to say this on the
form in case it ruined my chance to go, so
I ticked ‘yes’ and immediately enrolled in
LADIES SURF GETAWAYS TO BYRON BAY, FIJI AND THE MALDIVES
Designed for individuals or groups of like-minded ladies who are looking for that perfect surfing escape. Whether you have little or no
surfing experience, or you are a seasoned enthusiast, our personalised coaching programs, led by Jenny Boggis and Serena Adams,
will significantly improve your surfing and your confidence in the water. Perfectly combining the finest accommodation with the ideal
dose of surfing stoke and indulgent pleasures, our Ladies Surf Getaways will guarantee you the ultimate holiday memories to last a
lifetime. www.surfgetaways.com.au
adult swimming classes. I'd had lessons as
a child, but it was more the fear of putting
my head underwater I had to work on. The TOP TIPS
teachers were awesome, I made good
progress, and I was prepared for Byron.
for learning
I knew it would be no easy feat teaching 1 Get the right board. Start off on a big
me (never having been on a surfboard), stable long foam board. A ‘foamy’ makes it
but both coaches, Jenny and Serena, were easier to get up and ride a wave. Only once
amazing. After getting up on my first day, I you’re comfortable riding waves on that is it
told them about my surfing and swimming time for a smaller fibreglass board. Taking out
history (or rather: lack thereof), they were the right board for the right conditions and
surprised but thought it was great. They your level of surfing means catching more
are both experienced at coaching women waves (and more practice catching and riding
and understand how to provide support waves).
beyond the technical and physical aspects
2 Learn about the ocean. The ocean
of surfing. They also knew how to tackle the
changes every day and to find the right spot
mental and confidence barriers that might
to practice your surfing you need to be able
restrict improvement. Being in an all women
to read the ocean and the waves. Also, it is
group, including the surf coaches, created
important to understand the dangers of rip
a safe, supportive and non-competitive
currents and how to keep yourself safe in the
environment; perfect for learning at your
surf as the best surf spots are often remote
own pace.
and unpatrolled beaches.
I really have met some lovely people
3 Take surf lessons or join a surf
since I started this surfing journey. After
camp. Between risky wave conditions and
that holiday, I came home and instantly
unwelcoming local surfers, learning to surf by
found surf schools in Auckland to continue
yourself can be daunting. There’s so much to
learning. I was hooked, and it looks like
keep in mind, like finding the right break for
there is no going back now since I’ve
that day’s conditions, having the right board
purchased a wetsuit and a board. I'm off on
for your abilities, and avoiding other surfers
my next surf trip to Bali soon and am going
in the water. Your surf coach will take you to
to Fiji in November.
a friendly beach break to start off and provide
The surf coaches and all the ladies in my you with the right equipment.
group really helped me find my surf stoke
4 Find surf buddies. It’s hard not to have
and realise that you're never too old to learn
fun when surfing with friends. Women in the
something new. It's a fantastic way to meet
line-up encourage each other, calling others
like-minded women, not to mention keep
onto waves rather than creating competition.
fit.
And if there are no waves that day, go for a
I now look for holidays where I can surf, walk or a coffee and a chat instead.
and it makes me feel really good when I get
5 Have fun. Don’t take it all too seriously.
out every weekend, even if it's only once.
It’s great to set goals and focus on improving
It all just feels so right, like it was meant to
your surfing, but don’t let this take away your
happen this way at this stage in my life – as if
fun from being in the water. In the end, the
I was always meant to surf.
best surfer is the one with the biggest smile –
Surfing has definitely changed my life!” be like that surfer!
085 Travel Play Live
 Photo Credit: Gaye Gerard

MAKING CHANGE
Embracing the Wild

F O U N D E R W I L D F E S T & W I L D F O O D A D V E N T U R E S

Photo Credit: Gaye Gerard

086 Travel Play Live

 I cannot pinpoint one moment when I realised I was unhappy.
It did not happen suddenly, in fact it happened rather slowly.

WORDS BY: AMANDA FRY IMAGES BY: COPYWRITE WILDFEST

ver time, my passion for
promoting other people’s
businesses, managing their
change, crafting their brand
message and feeding their
success stopped being satisfying. Instead, I
became dissatisfied with my own career path.
I had no idea what the solution was except I
knew I wanted to move from change-taker to
change-maker.
I wanted control back – and I have never
underestimated the responsibility and risk that
goes along with that freedom. So began my
path to nature tourism, a process that would
take nearly two years with a business plan
conceived from unremarkable beginnings.
Several factors aligned to bring me to where I
am today.
After my father died, I made the radical
decision to sell my house in Sydney and buy
a weekender in a small village where I knew
absolutely no one; to create a sanctuary away
from the demands and challenges of what was
then a very busy working life. For the best part
of 15 years I ran my own business, managing
public relations for some of the biggest events
in Australia, and working for some of the busiest
celebrities in the world.
For five years I globally managed the fashion
brand for Kim, Kourtney and Khloe Kardashian
and launched the label into 19 countries (this
was at the height of their popularity, so you
can imagine the ride). I will not lie, it was fun,
insanely hard, and it taught me who I wanted
to be and what I was not prepared to ever
sacrifice. Those lessons will never leave me.
My brother got married and created two
gorgeous human beings, my niece and
nephew, twins who bring me more joy than
words can describe. Showing them my passions
and teaching them about native animals turned
on a light that would eventually morph into
Wildfest. Via my house in the Highlands, I was
introduced to some local people who worked
for an animal network. So, on one of my visits
I took the twins along with me. They entered
a world of wombats in the lounge, baby joey’s
hanging off the back of dining chairs at feeding
time, a baby possum climbing the curtains and a
gaggle of geese whose antics had us in stitches
for hours. Apparently, this became quite the
conversation when they returned home and was
all they talked about for days. From that moment
forward Aunty Mandy could walk on water in
their eyes when it came to the animal kingdom.
I knew I wanted to make more kids feel this
way because that is the key to protecting these
creatures for years to come.
Even in the crazy, beautiful and tumultuous
world of celebrity public relations I would find
ways to travel and seek out animal encounters
along the way – from the Mountain Gorillas
of Rwanda, Orangutans in Sumatra to Black
Gibbons in Vietnam.
It was on a celebrity assignment trekking in
Vietnam that the seed was really planted for
my new professional path. I came across an
incredible conservation organisation fighting to
change the way animals are perceived across
Asia. The group felt it was too late to influence
the Baby Boomers on mass (with the strong
medicinal culture wildlife represented) and
that their best hope for protecting endangered
species in the region was to engage up-and-
coming generations. So, they started a program
in the wild that got Millennials connected at
a deep level to change the culture of wildlife
protection. I knew then and there that I wanted
to play a part in making that happen in some
way, and the best place to start was at home in
Australia.
My passion for conservation culminated with an
invitation to a conference for Change Makers
Rule Breakers with Richard Branson on Necker
Island, where I joined a host of other global
entrepreneurs and trail-blazers. Honouring
my heart for the wild, Branson arranged for
me to accompany his zoology team who were
visiting another of his islands, dedicated to
re-populating several endangered species of
Lemur.
That was the moment where I began to craft my
new nature business with one goal: if you can
make people fall in love with the wilderness
then they will fight harder to protect it. And so, I
channelled all my creativity into finding unique,
immersive and fun ways to entice people
outside. From my Canoe, Champagne and
Canapes adventure through the sunken forest
on Lake Yarrunga, to a full fancy-dress Winter
Solstice Feast in the forest in June honouring the
church of nature, I started to find my tribe – and
the evolution continues.
Wildfest is now an annual event, and my
side project, a day-tour business, Wild Food
Adventures, is starting to really take off. The
biggest take away for me has been that the hard
bit isn’t making it happen (although the work
involved is unending), but that silencing your
mind enough to know what it is you actually
want to change about your life was the biggest
hurdle.

HERE AT TPL WE LOVE TO UPDATE

YOU ON CURRENT EVENTS.
TPL Australia’s First Wilderness Festival is back.
EVENTS Discover the WILDer side of the Southern Highlands
Choose from immersive, hands on foodie experiences like wilderness fire cooking classes or canoes, champagne
and canapés. Try an adrenalin rush with our wild spirit challenge and guided wilderness hikes. Perhaps you prefer a
slower, calmer, pace so why not come along to forest bathing, wildly creative or tales from the wild events? Maybe
transporting yourself with your family to WILDfest® Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve for our overnight glamping experience
is more your flavour? Whatever your passion, from heart racing adventures, soul fuelled explorations, the joy of
Travel storytelling or the calm quiet of sleeping under the stars, WILDfest® is about seeing nature in a whole new light.

Play Live
magazine
When from Saturday 29 Sept to Sunday 7 Oct 2018 at WILDfest®
Website www.wildfest.com.au/annualfestival/
Email info@wildfest.com.au Phone 02 4877 1742

Head to our website to view our event directory:

www.travelplaylive.com.au www.travelplaylive.com.au/must-do-events

MarketPLACE
The latest products & offerings from our partners
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RAYS
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088 Travel Play Live
MISTER TIMBUKTU
With the belief that you shouldn’t have to compromise
between sustainability, style and function Mister
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adventure more. They have just launched their debut
collection featuring waterproof raincoats sustainably
made from recycled plastic bottles and leggings and
crop tops made from discarded fishing nets and other
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LISA MESSENGER
Risk & Resilience; Breaking & Remaking a Brand’ by
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From the entrepreneur who has never been afraid
to dream big comes an uncensored story of
what it takes to survive in the start-up scene, her
life-changing decision behind closing Collective
Hub and why pivoting has proved her most
powerful business strategy yet. Written in real time,
Messenger’s latest book is part journal, part business
resource as she documents the hardest year of
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the edge of financial ruin and then delve into the
powerful business strategies that helped her survive.
www.collectivehub.com
 B KS
#TRAVELPLAYLIVELOVEBOOKS

Are you an author or consumer of incredibly fabulous reads? Then share the love with the
TPL tribe. Use #travelplaylivelovebooks and help more people discover great authors. We
are considering launching an online TPL Bookstore and would love to hear from you. Do
you have a book you want to share? Have you read something you love? Would you like to
write a review? Send us an email with your ideas: hello@travelplaylive.com.au.

Roam 4 Eva
On 18 October this year, Terra Roam will set off on a two-year
journey around Australia on a bike named Eva.
Along the way, Terra will promote ethical, sustainable and responsible
adventure travel, and participate in conservation, cultural and community
activities and initiatives. She will interview adventurers, creators and
change makers, and share their fascinating stories including in her book
which she is slowly writing on the journey. Oh, and did we tell you she
was also the 1st woman to walk 17,200 km solo unsupported around
Australia! Amazing!
You are all invited to be part of the adventure.
terraroams.earth
Find us on: Instagram, Facebook, Patreon, Blog, Linkedin

0{y ]y
xyx>

089 Travel Play Live

CHICKEN AND
VEGETABLE BONE BROTH
This is a basic healing food – a chicken bone broth, with vegetables and the pickings
of meat from the carcasses. It is a meal in a bowl I often cook for those who need
healing, particularly when they don’t feel like eating. Bringing warmth, comfort and
nutrition, it is an immune boosting meal that is easy on the digestive system.

SERVES 6-8 (GF) METHOD

INGREDIENTS 1. To make the broth base, place the chicken carcasses

Broth base: into a large pot with 4 litres of water, apple cider vinegar,
2 raw chicken carcasses (approx. 1kg) onion, parsley stalks and bay leaf. Bring to the boil,
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar ladling off the scum as it rises to the top. Reduce the heat
1 onion, halved to a gentle simmer and cook for 2 hours with the lid off.
6 parsley stalks The amount of liquid will gradually reduce. Remove the
1 bay leaf chicken carcasses from the pot and set aside to cool.
Broth:
2. For the broth, strain the cooking liquid through a fine
1 onion, finely diced
sieve straight into a large pot. Add the vegetables and
1 leek, finely sliced
garlic.
2 carrots, finely diced
4 stalks celery, finely diced 3. Bring the broth to the boil for 5 minutes, reduce to

2 large or 4 small potatoes, diced a simmer and cook with the lid off for 40 minutes, to

1 garlic clove, crushed reduce slightly and intensify the flavour.

To serve: 4. Meanwhile pick the chicken meat from the carcasses.

chicken meat from the carcass, finely chopped Finely chop the chicken meat and add that and the
parsley leaves, finely chopped parsley to the broth. Cook for a final 5 minutes to heat
1 tsp fine sea salt the chicken through. Season to taste with salt and
ground white pepper, to taste pepper.

Bone broth
(or stock) is made by boiling the bones of healthy animals together with vegetables, spices and herbs,
producing an infusion rich in minerals. Broth is still widely consumed around the world today, being a
cheap food with a high nutrient density. Besides its culinary uses, broth is an excellent source of minerals
and trace elements and is known to promote the immune system and help digestion. It is high in calcium,
magnesium, and phosphorus, making it great for tooth and bone health. Bone broth assists the health of
joints, skin, nails and hair, due to its high collagen content. Adding a little acid (such as apple cider vinegar
or white wine) helps to break down the bone and extract the nutrients.

SPECIAL ©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure –
THANKS Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

091 Travel Play Live

STEAMED ASPARAGUS
WITH TOASTED PINE NUTS
Asparagus remains one of the few great examples of real seasonal eating. Springtime comes
round and it means that fresh asparagus is on its way. This recipe is great as a side to fish, or to
accompany meats on the bbq, it can also be enjoyed as an entrée or light lunch all on its own.

SERVES 4 (V) (GF) METHOD

INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup (40g) pine nuts
2 bunches asparagus, woody ends trimmed
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tsp caramelised balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Parmesan, shaved and freshly ground black
pepper, to serve
1. Heat a small frying pan over medium heat and dry fry the pine nuts for 1-2 minutes,
until golden brown. Transfer to a plate to cool.
2. Cook the asparagus in a steamer for 3-5 minutes, until just tender and bright
green (test with a small sharp knife). The cooking time will depend on the thickness
of the spears. Remember it will continue to cook once removed from steamer, so get
it out sooner rather than later.
3. Arrange the asparagus on a platter and sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts. Drizzle
with the lemon juice, caramelised balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. Top with
shaved Parmesan and season with pepper as desired.

Note: Caramelised balsamic vinegar is balsamic vinegar which has been boiled to reduce it in quantity, producing a thicker and sweeter
syrup consistency. On some occasions sugar is added at the time of boiling to add further sweetness and help with the caramelising.

SMASHED POTATOES
WITH ROSEMARY
Recently I visited Kurrawong Organics Farm on the Central Tablelands of NSW. Lesley Bland cooked
me a lovely meal using fresh organic vegetables from their market gardens. This is my take on the
delicious potatoes she cooked for me that evening with her freshly dug, new season potato crop.

SERVES 6 (V) (GF) METHOD

INGREDIENTS 1. Preheat the oven to 250ºC (230 C fan forced) and line a large baking tray with
1 kg kipfler potatoes or chat potatoes, scrubbed non-stick baking paper.
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
2. Cook the potatoes in a steamer for 20 minutes until tender. Dry any moisture from
1 tbsp sea salt
potatoes. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer.
1 tbsp rosemary leaves
3. Using a fork or potato masher, gently crush or smash the potatoes so they break
Note: Use the highest setting open but still retain their form. Drizzle with the olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt
on your oven, preferably fan and rosemary.
forced, for the best crunchy 4. Bake on the top shelf for 30 minutes, until golden brown with a crispy outside and
result. fluffy inside.

SPECIAL ©Jane Grover – Recipe from Jane’s cookbook: Our Delicious Adventure –
THANKS Recipes and Stories of Food and Travel www.janegrover.net

093 Travel Play Live

Finalist: Żaneta Chylewska

#happyplacetpl
 fx H

"
,  
H

"
a ] zH

"
N I N A S I M O N E
(Feeling Good)
WOMENS
ADVENTURE,
TRAVEL &
CAMPING
HUB

CONNECT WITH LIKE MINDED,

WILD HEARTED WOMEN IN
THE FACEBOOK HUB.
Share and show off your brave,
adventurous stories. Inspire the
community.

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mostly this is a commercial free zone.

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travelplaylivehub/

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096 Travel Play Live

A N AT O M I C A G I R L ANGE MALONEY A N N A S T R E AT F E I L D

20 Finalists
#HAPPYPLACETPL
#TRAVELPLAYLIVE
B I A N C A A N I C E TO CASSIE HARRISON

DEANNE DWIGHT DONNA NIXON JO MALCOLM

K AT H Y C H I S L E T T KEL ON THE COAST KIM DE KRETSER

098 Travel Play Live

KIRSTEN GILLIES KYLIE BROWN M E L I TA V A N S T E E L

M I C H E L L E R YA N OLIVIA ROSE TEGAN & LAURA

WOMEN OF WONDER Ż A N E TA C H Y L E W S K A BROOKE NOLAN

Thank you to everyone who submitted their photos

into the Happy Place Competition! We received some
fantastic entries, but 20 stood out as our favourites!
Winner: Kathy Chislett (cover)
HAPPYPLACE 2 year tribe membership (8 issues)

PHOTO Runner Up: Deanne Dwight (inside front cover)

1 year tribe membership (4 issues)
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Competition We have a little something to offer you.
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099 Travel Play Live