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 Prefaces
by Auguste Eseofrer and Phtl6as Gllbert
to the or{gtnal edltion of
to
Larousse Gastronomique
Publishers' note
Publishers' note
Escffier died before the edition o/
first edition of Larousse
Escoffier died before the first Larousse Gastronomique
Gastronomique was
published in IgJg; the great,king of cooks and the
puhlished in 1938; the great 'king of cooks and the cook of kings'
cook of kings, wrote
wrote
his
his preface after readhg the draft
reading the first draft of theof the manusuipt. phitias
Philéa.s
Gilbert laler
Gilbert later saw
saw the
the complete workwork and
and added
added aa supplementary preface.
supplementary preface.

The history of
The of the
the table of aa nation
table of nation is
is aa reflection of the
reflection of civilization of
the cÏvilization of that nation. To show
nation. To show the
changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe
...., .........b'~'" in the order and of meals from to comment on the
to describe and comment
progress of the French cuisine, is to paint a picture of the many stages through
progress of the French is to a of the which a
which a nation
has evolved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating wild roots,
has ev01ved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived caves, fOOts,
raw
raw fish fish and and the still pulsating flesh
the still flesh of animais killed
of animals kiHed with
with the
the spear.
spear.
It is
It is this this history that is the
that is the subject of Larowse
of Larousse Gastronomtqtrc,
Ga.stronomique, in inwhich
which Prosper Montagn6 has
outlined in
outlined in some
sorne thousand
thousandpages .pages all aH thethe improvements
improvements brought brought to to the
the culinary art art from
prehlstoric times to the present day. Presented in the form of a dictionary, it sums up all that has
"", • .u.",~,","'''''' times to the Presented in the form of a dictionary, it aH that has
been achieved by the science of alimentation, and everything in it has been minutely studied and
been achieved and in it has been studied and
described.
described.
Those who
Those make a
who make a profession
pr()te~;Slcm of gastronomy will find in
will find in this
this book matter for
book matter for comparison
between what used to be the art of good eating and what it is today. Housewives will be particularly
between what used to he the art of Housewives win be
interested in the evolution of the table through the ages, its refinements modified in each epoch*to a
înterested in the evolution of the table the ages, its refinements modified in each a
certain extent by the exigencies of reigning fashions. hofessional cooks, both men and women, will
certain extent the of """F.~J
..UJIF. fashions. Professional both men and women, wî11
be able
be able to to drawdraw inspiration from the principles HA~~!-,M~~ of
of aa culinary technique founded
founded on on the llnIV"""C::~
the universally
recognized knowledge and authority of the author. The text of the book and the recipes are enlivened
of the author. The text of the book and the are enlivened
byby attractive
attractive anecdotes anecdotes and
and legendary
.'"'/5,""' .......... tales.
tlVhile waiting to read them in print, I went
While to read them in through the the innumerable
innumerable manuscript pages pages of of this
this
encyclopedia and I am still under the spell cast by this work. How could it have been completed so
cm;ycloptoolla and 1 am still under the this work. How could it have been so
rapidly? For For thethe author had only one
author had one collaborator, albeit albeit an
an eminent
eminent one,
one. who
who was entrusted with
was entrusted with
all
aH scientific
scientific and and medical
medical subjects, and and the the material
material waswas prepared in less than
in less than three
three yearsi.
years.
Iarotuse Gastronomique is a
Larousse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude and model of exactitude and precision in
in all
an that
that concerns
concerns the the
etymology of ofcertain
certainwords, the thedefinition
definition of ofculinary terms, theorigin of
terms, the foods inin everyday use
offoods useandand
the
the many many recipes for each grven dish. dish.

Sym bolsofplenty
Symbols of p!enl y- -bread andwine,
breadand wme.meat
mealand cggs(phot.
andeggs (Phal. Nicotasl
Nico/as)
 and there are some very attractive
Numerous descriptive photographs illustrate illustratecertain
certain subjects,
subjects, and there are sorne very attractive
reproductions of antique engravings. Magnificent colour plates show finished dishes with their
col our show tinished dishes with their
appropriate garnishes.
were well aware of this, had not
Such aa work
Such work would
would have have beenbeen incomplete, and and the
the authors
authors were well aware of this, had not
vineyards. The greatest of these,
considerable space
considerable reserved for
beenreserved
spacebeen for the riches of
the riches ofour famous French
ourfamous French vineyards. The greatest of these,
~V!,~"'~.""'l in
classified, are shown together in explicit tables.
tables.
some gastronomes of great renown
Finally, the biographies of certainof maîtres de
certain maitres cuisine and
de cuisine and sorne gastronomes of great renown
gastronomical bibliography mentions a
are for
are immortalized in
ever immortalized
for ever these pages,
in these pages, and culinary and
and aa culinary and gastronomical bibliography mentions a
great number of
great number of works, somesome of which are
of which perhaps unknown
are perhaps
to the bibliophiles.
unknown to the bibliophiles.
All those who
AH those make aa cult
who make cult of of good eating and and good drinking
will find that Prosper Montagn6's
drinking will find that Prosper Montagné's
Larousse Gastronomique
Larousse work that
is indeed aa work
Gastronomique isindeed they will
that they will consult
with interest and one that will have a
consult with interest and one that will have a
prominent place in library. And
their library.
in their this will
And this be the
wîll be the author's
merited and just reward, which I
author's merited and just reward, which 1
heartily applaud.
Auguste Escoffier
Auguste Escoffier

outlined the opinion he

the opinion after having
formed after read the first draft of the
In his
ln his preface, Escoffier outlined he formed having read the tirst draft of the
Thismanuscript revised
later considerably revised
was later and completed' Being in a
Gastronomique. This
Lqousse Gastronomique.
Larousse manuscript was and in a
position than
favourable positîon he, it
than he, it was
was onon the study of
the study these final pages that my judgment was
of these
more favourable
more final pages that my was
that of
with that of Escoffier
Escoffier and and is all the
is ait the better founded because I have been able to see
better founded
based; itit conforms
conforms with because 1 have been able to see
for myself what
for what he he predicted.
Predicted.
Escoffier and l,I, old
and friends of
otd friends prosper Montagnd, realized that he had undertaken a formidable
of Prosper
Escoffier Montagné, reaHzed that he had undertaken a formidable
which only
of which
one of
task, one only the authors of
the authors works can
of culinary works understand the importance, but knowing
can understand
task, the but
his capacity for work and
for work and his inflexible will
his inflexible willpower, extensive erudition and his professional
his extensive
his power, his erudition and his professional
which puts him
knowledge, which him in in the
the first place among
first place among greatgreat cooks of our time, we were certain that he
knowledge, cooks of our we were certain that he
would bring
would it to a successful conclusion'
bring it to a successful conclusion.
As Escoffier wrote, itit isis to
Escoffier wrote, all those
to ail those whowho have anything to
have anything to do
do with food or who are interested
with food
As or who are interested
in the
in history of
the history of the cuisineand
the cuisine and thethe table, that this
table, that book îsis addressed.
this book I
addressed. It is-dare say it-the
It is-dare 1 say it-the
apotheosis of
apotheosis the professional work
of the work of of Prosper Montagnd.
vade-mecum for everyone' a reliable
is-a vade-mecum
Gastrinomiquemust
Larousse Gastronomique
Larousse become--and itit already is-a
mustbecome-and for everyone, a reliable
ready to
counsellor rcady to be consulted atatany
beconsulted momentand
anymoment and ononno what subject connected with the
matter what
no matter
counsellor subject connected with the
sciencesand
alimentary sciences
alimentary thearts
and the artsofofthe table'
thetable.
suchaa magnificent and
thatsuch and perseveringefforteffort may find its reward
Like Escoffier,l Iwish
Like heartily that
wish heartily may find its reward
for whom it was conceived, a welcome which it deserves from any point
in the welcome of those
in the welcome of those for whom ît was /"1"",,/""'1\,,"'''' a welcome which il deserves from any
of view'
ofview.
Phil6as Gilbert
Philéas Gilbert
 4
.
.,: t

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yudhacookbook.blogspot.com
 THE NEW
LAROUSSE
GASIil}K(EN@NilHruffiTE
T MI
yudhacookbook.blogspot.com

THE
EEENCYCLOPEDIA
PE lA
OF FO
OF FOOD, WINE
\TINE & COOKERY
& OOKERY

by Prosper J\!(ontagné
7fontagni

AMERICAN
AMERICAN EDITOR,
EDITOR: CT{ARLOTTE
CHARLOTTE TURGEON
TURGEON
PREFACE
PREFACE BY ROBERT J. COURTTNE
BY ROBERT]. COURTINE
ORIGINAL pREFACEs
oRrcrNAL BY AucusrE
PREFACES By ESCOFFIER AND pmldns
AUGUSTE EscoFFrER PHILÉAS GTLBERT
GILBERT
TEXT
TEXT TRANSLATED
TRANSLATED FROM THE
THE FRENCH
FRENCH BY MARION HUNTER M.I.L.
MARION HUNTER M.LL.

too o
1000 Jllustr
Jllustrations
ations 1Jncluding
ncluding

Many in Jull
7[any '}=ull Color

CRO\TN
CROWN PUBLISHERS,
PUBLIS E IN .· NE
INC. NEWT YORK
 Prosper Montagn6
by Prosper Montagné
Originally published
published under the title
under the
Nouveau
N Larousse
ouv e au Lar astronomique
Gastronomique
ou s s e G

American
American Editor Charlotte Turgeon
Editor:: Charlotte

© CopyrightLibrairieLarousse,
@ Copyright Librairie Larousse, Paris 19. 1960
© Copyright
@ Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited
Copyright English text The Hamlyn Limited 1977

All
AU rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy-
mechanical, including photocopy-
inlormation storage
ing, recording, or by any information retrieval system,without
storage and retrieval system, without
permission inwriting
permission in from the Publisher. Inquiries
writing lrorn Inquiries should be addressed to
Publishers,Inc.,
Crown Publishers, Inc., One Park Avenue, NewNew York, N.Y. 10016.

Printed in the U.S.A.

Printed U.S.A.
Published simultaneously Canada by General Publishing
simultaneously in Canada Company Limited
Publishing Company

Library
Library of Congress C atalo ging in Publication
C ongr es s Cataloging Publication Data
Main entry under
under title:

The New Larousse gastronomique.

Larousse gastronomique.
Translation
Translation of Nouveau
Nouveau Larousse gastronomique.
gastronomique.
Ed. for 1961,
Ed. for by P.
1961, by P. Montagné, published under
Montagnd, published title: Larousse
under title: Larousse
gastronomique.
gastronomique.
1. Cookery-Dictionaries-French. 2.
1. Food-Dictionaries-
2. Food-Dictionaries-
French. 3.
French. 3. Cookery,
Cookery, French. I. Dunbar,
French. 1. Dunbar, Janet. II. Montagné,
Janet. Il. Montagnd, Prosper,
1865-1948.
1 865- 1948. Larousse gastronomique.
gastronomique.
TX349.M613 1977
TX349.M613 1977 641'.03
641'.O3 77-9905
0-517-53 137-2
ISBN 0-517-53137-2
 Preface
In his preface to
In to the first edition of Larousse
the first redîscovered -- in order to endorse
has rediscovered endorse them --- the
Gastronomique
Gas tr onomique Escoffier wrote: wrote : broad outlines of ancient
broad outlines ancient practice, somewhat
somewhat
'The history of
'The history of a nation's table is a reflection of forgotten since the beginning
forgotten beginning ofof this century. It It is
the civilisation of
the civilisation of that nation. To
that nation. show the
To show essential to incorporate into this work
essential work the lessons
changes in the order and serving of meals from
changes learnt fromfrom aa combination
combination of ancient wisdom
century to century, to describe and comment on and modern research.
the progress of the French cuisine, is is to paint a Legislation, as as well,
weH, has modified the
has modified the basic
picture of the
picture the many through which
stages through
many stages which a nutrition of twentieth-century
twentieth-century man, man, and and if
if the
nation has evolved since the distant times when, gourmet can still, with justification, reject certain
gourmet
as aa weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating
as forms of
forms of progress,
progress, he must must nevertheless take
wild roots, raw fish and the still pulsating flesh of them. Moreover, taking his pleasures of
note of them.
animals killed
animaIs kiUed with the spear. the table where he can find thern, he has to recog- rocog-
'It is this history that is the subject
'It subjectof of Larousse nise, for
nise, for instance, that deep
instance, that freezing or freeze-
deep freezing
Gastronomique, in which Prosper Montagné Montagn6 has drying (words which w€re were unknown to Prosper
outlined in sorne
some thousand
thousand pages all the improve-
pages aH Montagn6
Montagné and and his contemporaries) offer to the
ments brought to
ments brought to the
the culinary art art from
from pre- appetite as as well
weIl asas to the greed
to the greed of man man many
historic times to the
historic thé present day. Presented in the satisfying
satisfying solutions.
solutions.
form of dictionary, it sums up aIl
of a dictionary, all that has been The laws pertaining to
The laws to wine and vines
wine and vines have
achieved by
achieved by the science of
the science of alimentation,
alimentation, and considerably alteredaltered the wine scene
the wine scene in in France.
everything in it it has been minutely studied and
has been Chefs in general are little Httle interested Înin wine, and
described. this is doubtless whyhitherto
why hitherto Larotnse
Larousse Gastrono-
'Those who make a profession of gastronomy
'Those ne~~ectea the cellar. My friends and 1
mique has neglected I
will find
will find in this book
in this book matter
matter forfor comparison have made a better selection from French wines
between what used used to be the art of good eating and those from other countries, bearing in mind
countries, bearing
and what it
and what it isis today.
today. Housewives
Housewives will will be the latest rules and regulations.
interested in
particularly interested the evolution of
in the of the Jean Desmur, who may deserve thetitle'Picthe-title 'Pic de
through the ages,
table through ages, its refinements modified La Mirandole
La Mirandole de la gastronomie', took
de la took upon
in each epoch -- to
in each to aa certain extent by
certain extent by the himself the duty
the dut y of recounting the the details
details of
exigencies of
exigencies reigning fashions.
of reigning fashions. Professional
Professional domestic history and
domestic history and gastronomical
gastronomical folklore,
both men
cooks, both men and women, will be able to draw and because
hecause one must be he up to to date
date with what
inspiration from
from the principles of
the principles of aa culinary one loves, we Est list the food and wine associations
technique founded on the universally recognised
technique recognÎsed which have multiplied since the last war.
have multiplied
knowledge and authority of of the author. The rest All this rounds out the original work without
AH
of the book and and the the recipes are are enlivened
enlivened by either changing the direction or the balance. This
either changing
attractive anecdotes
anecdotes and legendary
legendary tales.' is aatt least profound wish.
least our profound
work of Prosper Montagn6
The work Montagné (and of Dr. It remains for me to introduce and thank the
Gottschalk, who
Gottschalk, who helped him him notably withwith the contributors of this new edîtion:
contributors edition:
historical, scien
scientific medical material) is an
tific and medical Madeleine Decure, director of the the publication
historic work which it 1S
historic is proper to revive today, Cuisine
Cuisine el et vins
vins de France
adding new gastronomic while retaining its
SLflDD()IDIC treats white Jean D.
Jean D. Arnaboldi,
Arnaboldi, chief editoreditor of the the publi-
and balance. Indeed, if
style and if the
the history of cation
ca tion Bien
Bien Vivre
inseparable from the domestîc
cooking, which is inseparable domestic Frangoise d'Athis, general secretary of of the
the Revue
history of the people, hasn't changed and if the du vin de France
great recipes remain
great remain the the same despite the
same despite of I'Acad6mie Rabelais
Henry Clos-Jouve, ofl'Académie
tremendous simplification of modern
tremendous modern cooking, Jean Desmur
on the other
other hand dietetics is a new science which Pierre Neuville
Neuville Robert J. Courtine
Courtine
Table of Comparative
Table of Comparative Measures
Measrrres
Note
Note
Published for
Published for use throughout the
use throughout world, this
the world, this edition of LAROUSSE
edition of LAROUSSE
GASTRONOMIQUE contains
GASTRONOMIQUE American and
contains American British equivalents
and British equivalents as as
well as
weIl original French
as original French measurements
measurements in in aIl
all recipes.
recipes. Occasionally
Occasionally what what
appears to
appears to be discrepancy in
be aa discrepancy in conversion
conversion may In fact
occur. In
may occur. fact this
this results
results
from proportionate
from proportionate alteration of quantities
alteration of quantities throughout
throughout thatthat recipe
recipe inin
order to avoid
order to avoid awkward
awkward fractions
fractions inin measurements.
measurements.

The cups
The cups and
and tablespoons quoted, together
tablespoons quoted, with the
together with the French
French measures,
measures,
in this
in this book
book areare American
American Standard, which are
standard, which slightly smaller
are slightly smaller in in
capacity than
capacity British Standard
than British standard cups and spoons.
cups and The American
spoons. The American and and
Canadian Standard -!-* pint
Canadian Standard pint measuring
measuring cupcup has
has aa capacity
capacity ofof 88 fluid
fluid
ounces; the
ounces; the British
British Standard Imperial -!-] pint
Standard Imperial pint measuring
measuring cup cup hashas aa
capacity of 10
e'apacity of fluid ounces.
10 fluid ounces. TheThe American
American and and Canadian
canadian Standard
Standard
measuring tablespoon
measuring measures i$ fluid
tablespoon measures fluid ounce; the British
ounce; the British Standard
Standard
measures 1I fluid
tablespoon measures
tablespoon fluid ounce.
ounce. 33 teaspoons
teaspoons areare equal to 1I table-
equal to table-
measutrmrlttr
spoon. All measureme ts refer to LEVEL
refer to LEVEL spoons
spoons and
and cups.
cups.

LIQIJID MEASURES
LIQUID MEASTJRES

French British
British American
American
1I litre 1
lf pints
li 4| cups
4i cups
orlquart2ounces
or 1 quart 2 ounces

1I demilitre (-!-
$ litre) iI pi
pint
nt (generous) 22 cups
cups (generous)
(generous)
or
or 11 pint
pint (generous)
(generous)

1I decili tre (($

decilitre -il> litre) 3-4
3-4 ounces 1-* cup
cup (seant)
(scant)
or iI pint
or pint (seant)
(scant)

WEIGHT
WBIGHT

French British and

and American
1

1I gram .035
.035 ounce
1 --
28·35
28.35 grams 1I ounce
ounce

100 grams 3-!-

3| ounces
I114
14 grams 4 ounces
ounces (approx.)

226· 78 grams
226'78 8 ounces
8 ounces

500 grams
500 I1 pound
pound 1-!-
1| ounces
ounces (approx.)

I1 kilogram
kilogram 2·21 pounds
2'21
 APPROXTMATE EQUIVALENTS FOR
APPROXlMATE EQUTVALENTS FOR BASIC
BASIC FOODS
FoonS

French British
British American

Almonds,
Almonds, blanched,
bJanched, whole
whole 150 grams 5| ounces
5t ounces I1 cup
Baking powder
powder 4·3 grams
4.3 1I teaspoon I1 teaspoon
(approx.) (approx.)
30 grams 1I ounce
ounce 2]
21 tablespoons

Breadcrumbs, dry
Breadcrumbs, 90 grams 3! ounces
3L I1 cup
,, fresh
fresh 45 grams r+ ounces
1t ounc€s I1 cup
"
Butter 15 grams {1 ounce
ounce I1 tablespoon
tablespoon
125 grams 4 ounces *1- cup
500 grams I1 pound 2 cups
(generous)
(generous)

Cheese
Cheese 500 grams 1I pound 1I pound
(generous)
(generous) (generous)
(generous)
"),
(grated Parmesan)
Parmesan) 100 grams (scant)
4 ounces (seant) I1 cup (seant)
(scant)

Coffee, medium ground 85 grams 3 ounces I1 cup

--
(cornflour)
Cornstarch (cornflour) l0 grams
10 t$ ounce
ounce 1I tablespoon
tablespoon
Cream of tartar 3-4 grams l$ ounce
ounce 1I teaspoon
1

Fish 500 grams 1I pound 1I pound

(generous)
(generous) (generous)
(generous)
1
all purpose)
Flour (unsifted, ail 35 grams 1I -ft
ft ounces t* cup
70 grams 2~ ounces
2$ *t cup
grams
142 grams
142 4f ounces
4! 1I cup
500 grams 1I pound 3| cups
3t
(generous)
(generous)
",,
(sifted, ail
all purpose) 32 grams 1I ounce t cup
(generous)
(generous)
60 grams 2$
2! ounces t* cup
128 grams
128 4| ounces
41 1I cup
",,
(sifted cake
(sifted and pastry
cake and
flour) 30 grams 1I ounce *t cup
60 grams 2 ounces 1-* cup
120 grams
120 4 ounces 1I cup

Fruit (fresh) 500 grams 1I pound 1I pound

(generous)
(generous) (generous)
(generous)
",,
(dried) 500 grams 1 pound 2 cups
(generous)
(generous)
Gelatine (leaf sheets) 6 medium size 1I ounce 2 tablespoons
leaves
1I cup
",,
(granulated)
(granulated) 150 grams
150 5$ ounces
51
Meats 500 grams 1 pound 11 pound
(generous)
(generous) (generous)
(generous)
",,
(diced) 226 grams
226 grams 88 ounces 1I cup
Mustard (dry) 15 grams
15 tI ounce 2 tablespoons
 French
French British
British American
American
Pepper (whole white)
Pepper (whole white) grams
30 grams
30 1I ounce
ounce 3ftablespoons
3i tablespoons
(generous)
(generous)
,,
"
(whole
(who black)
le black) 30 grams
30 grams 1I ounce
ounce 4|tablespoons
4t tablespoons
(generous)
(generous)
,,
"
(powdered)
(powdered) 30 grams
30 grams 1I ounce
ounce 44tablespoons
tablespoons
(generous)
(generous)
Raisins (seeded)
Raisins (seeded) 12 grams
12 grams $ ounce
lounce 1 tablespoon
tablespoon
200 grams
200 grams 6$ ounces
61 ounces 1 cup
cup
,,
"
(seedless)
(seedless) l0 grams
10 grams l$ ounce
ounce 1 tablespoon
tablespoon
160 grams
160 grams 5$ ounces
51 ounces 1 cup
cup
grams
500 grams
500 1I pound
pound 3 cups
cups

Rice
Rice 240 grams
240 grams ***t
88 ounces 1 cup
cup
Salt
Salt 15 grams
15 grams tI ounce
ounce 1I tablespoon
tablespoon
(ground)
Spices (ground)
Spices 2| grams
2t grams $ ounce
-Px ounce 1I teaspoon
teaspoon
15 grams
15 grams tI ounce
ounce 22 tablespoons
tablespoons

Sugar (fine granulated)

Sugar (fine granulated) grams
55 grams l$ ounce
ounce 1I teaspoon
teaspoon
15 grams
15 grams tI ounce
ounce 1I tablespoon
tablespoon
60 grams
60 grams 22 ounces
ounces !* cup
cup
240 grams
240 grams 88 ounces
ounces 1I cup
cup
,,
"
(powdered) 34 grams
34 grams 1I ounce
ounce !* cup
cup
(generous)
(generous)
68 grams
68 grams 2f ounces
2, ounces tt cup
cup
140 grams
140 4~
4$ ounces
ounces 1I cup
cup
,,
"
(confectioner's or icing) 35 grams
35 grams 1I ounce
ounce !* cup
cup
(generous)
(generous)
70 grams 2f ounces
2; ounces tl cup
cup
140 grams 4f ounces
14; 1I cup
cup
,,
"
(brown) l0 grams
10 i$ ounce
ounce 1I tablespoon
tablespoon
80 grams 2i
2$ ounces t* cup
cup
160 grams 5t
5$ ounces 1I cup
cup

Vegetables (fresh) 500 grams 1I pound 1I pound

pound
(generous)
(generous) (generous)
(generous)
(dried: Ientils
lentils or split
" peas)
peas) 500 grams 1I pound 22 cups
cups
(generous)
(generous)
 H
ABAISSE-A
ABAISSE - A tenu French pastry-making
term used in French pastry-making to describe may be or, better still, aa handful
be substituted for the sage or, handful of
aa piece (or sheet)
piece (or of rolled-out pastry.
sheet) of It is
pastry. It also used
is also used to rosemary boiled with the
boiled with skin of an
the skin orange. Bay leaves are
an orange.
describe aalayer
layer of sponge cake or biscuit.
ofsponge good.' (le
also good.' (le Minagier
Ménagier de Paris, fourteenth
fourteenth century)
ABOMASUM. CAILLETTEc,{trrsrre -- Fourth
Fourth stomach of the the rumi-
Dried caillette
nants. Dried
nants. (solid rennet)
caillette (solid or its
rennet) or its extract,
extract, liquid
rennet (obtained by by infusion) is used in the
used in the cheese-making
cheese-making
coagulating milk.
industry for coagulating
is also
Caillette is
Caillette also the name given in
the name in the Arddche and
the Ardèche and La
Dr6me to aa large
Drôme large sausage stuffed with aa mixture of minced
pig's liver
Iiver and chard Ieaves.
leaves.

ABONDANCE -- Wine diluted with water.

ABONDANCE
word ironically
This word
This ironically describes
describes the drink which
the drink in days
which in
go used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine
ne by used
gone
and water abundant. The term
was scarce and tenu is used, deprecat-
deprecat-
ingly, of watered-down wine.
An abaisse of pastry ABROTONITE -- Herb-f1avoured
ABROTONITE The ancients
Herb-flavoured wine. The ancients used
of mugwort
to macerate a sort of abrotanum in this wine
mugwort called abrotanum
flavour.
to enhance its f1avour.
ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-killer) A substantial
(Hunger-killer) -- A substantial dish
dish served
ABSINTH. ABSINTHE
ABSINTH. ABSTNTHE -- Liqueur made
made byby macerating and
early in the meal. (Artemisia absinthium)
distilling thc
distilling thc leaves wormwood (Artemisia
leaves of wormwood
ABATTE (Beater) -- A
ABATTE A popular corruption
corruption of the
the French then adding
then adding other aromatic plants (fennel, Chinese
aromatic plants Chinese anise,
word battre
word (to beat).
battre (to An abatte is
beat). An is aa rather thick, broad,
rather thick, hyssop, etc.).
double-edged knife used
double-edged flattening meal.
used for f1attening meat. Absinth ap6ritif in
Absinth (colloquially known as la verte) was the apéritif
grown in the 1914 war.
vogue before the
ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE
ABEL-MUSK. An aromatic
,c,Mnnnrrr -- An plant grown
aromatic plant
vn D'ABSINTHE
Absinth wine. VIN
Absinth infusion of
D'ABsINTHE -- Wine spiced by infusion of
Martinique, the which have
the seeds of which very strong, must
have aa very mustyy
wormwood leaves.
wormwood leaves.
smell. In India these
smel!. these seeds
seeds are mixed with coffee to give it a
heighten its stimulating properties.
and to heighten
special aroma, and
Ambrette is also the name of an ambergris-scented
ambergris-scented variety
of pear.
ABLUTIONS, TABLE. TABLE. ABLUTIONS
ABLUTIoNs DE rABLE -- The custom
DE TABLE Wormwood
Wormwood
of passing bowls of water to to guests at
at table, toto rinse
rinse their a. Branch
a.
b. Inflorescence
b.
fingers at the end of of a rneal,
meal, or after eating
eating certain dishes
dishes with c. Flower
c. Flower
back to earliest
the fingers, goes back earliest antiquity. It was a common
practice with the
practice with the ancient
ancient Egyptians,
Egyptians, the the Greeks
Greeks andand the
Romans, who
Romans, who not only washed their hands hands before the meal
but also between the courses.
common to ail
'This practice, cornmon all ancient people, is explained
by the fact that in those days food was taken taken with the fingers.
A servant
A poured the
servant poured the contents of aa vesse! (usually scented
vessel (usually
water) over the fingers
hands were simsimply
fingers of the guest. In other circumstances,
ply washed in a basin.' (Vie
by Louis Nicolas Menard)
Menard)
circumstances,
(Vie privie
privée des anciens, v
Recipe for finger-bowl
Recipe for water. RECETTE
finger-bowl water. FscETrE POURpouR UNEUNE EAU
'Boil aa handful
D'ABLUTToN -- 'Boil
D'ABLUTION handful of sage in water. Pour off the
resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or marjoram marjoram
ABSORPTION

ABSORPTION (Whinsical
ABSORPTION (Whimsical gastronomy)
gastronomy)- This was
- This was the meal ('Sour-sweet') -- An
ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet')
ACETO-IX)LCE An Italian commercial
offered in times to
in bygone times to the senior students of I'Ecole
the senior l'École product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first
product consisting of
polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough
polytechnique by the new arrivals. 'Enough is bbsorbed
absorbed there pickled in
pickled in vinegar,
vinegar, then preserved in
then preserved in a syrup of Muscat
a syrup Muscat
to justify
justify the name of ceremony.' (Lor6dan
of the ceremony.' (Lorédan Larchey)
Larchey) grape must,
must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served as
as an
hors-d' œuvre.
hors-d'euvre.
ABSTINENCE
ABSTINENCE -- Days Days of
of abstinence
abstinence are those on which one
should abstain from
should abstain from eating
eating meat,
meat, although one is
although one is not ACETOMEL.
ACETOMEL. AcfroMEL-
ACÉTOMEL - Sour-sweet
Sour-sweet syrup made of of honey
obliged to fast.
fast. Meat abstinence does not prevent one from
Meat abstinence of fruit. Quinces,
and vinegar used in the preservation of Quinces, pears
Iiving
living a perfectly nonnal life. In fact,
perfectly normal fact, the total exclusion of and grapes thus preserved
preserved take the name ofof aceto-dolce,
aceto-dolce, i.e.
condiments is indispensable in a number
certain foods and condiments number sour-sweet fruit.
sour-sweet
of dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed for
of dietary
those who have over-indulged
over-indulged at table.
ACETONE.
ACETONE. AcfroNE
ACÉTONE -- A colourless, inflammable
inflammable liquid
liquid
with an acrid burning
burning taste and a quince-like
quince-like smell. Acetone
ABUTILON -- There are more than sixty
sixt y varieties of this appears in the body when the process cif decomposition of
of decomposition
plant scattered throughout the
plant scattered world. An
the world. An edible
edible species
species fatty matter is
is deficient and particularly
deficient and particularly when the diet
when the diet is
known
known as as Abutilon grows in Brazil.
esculentum grows
Abuti/on esculentum Brazil. The
The Brazilians
Brazilians lacking in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently
frequently arises in
call it bengas
benças de deos and cookcook its flowers with meat.
meat. severe cases ofdiabetes
severe of diabetes and starvation.
starvation.
In abutilon is cultivated
ln Europe, abutilon garden plant for the
cul tiva ted as a garden
beauty of
beauty ofits flowers, but only
its flowers, rarely for use as food. In some
only rarely sorne
ACHAR.
ACHAR. AcHARDACHARD - - This word, derived from from thethe Persian
Persian
word atchar,
word describes a
atchar, describes spiced pickle
a strongly spiced pickle (usually
(usually
particularly in Asia and
countries, particularly and in the
the West
West Indies, its
saffron-coloured) made from
saffron-coloured) from fruit,
fruit, or vegetables,
vegetables, or or very
leaves are
leaves are cooked
cooked andand eaten in the manner of sorrel
the manner sorrel or
young, tender buds of of palm cabbage (palmetto)
(palmetto) or bamboo
bamboo
spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the
the species
species
sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout the Indian Archi- Archi-
known as Abutilon
Abutilon indicam.
indicum.
pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union
pelago, Réunion Island.
Island.
ACACIA-Acacia
ACACIA - Acacia blossoms
blossoms are used for making
are used making fritters and Lemm
Lemon achar (Creole cookery).cookery). AcHARDS
ACHARDS DE CITR9NS -
DE crrRoNs -
a home-made liqueur.
liqueur. Choose thin-skinned
C6oose thin-skinned lemons quarter them. Extrait
lem ons and quarter Extract the
blossom fritters -- See FRITTERS.
Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. juice,
juice, discard the pips, and macerate
macerate the lemons in layers layers of
ratafia -- See LIQUEUR.
liqueur or ratafia
Acacia Hqueuror LIQUEUR. kitchen
kitchen salt.
Remove the lemons from the salt and soak them in cold
ACAI\THUS (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn
ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). ACANTHE - This most decora-
- This decora-
water for 24 hours, changing the water times. Boil in
water several times.
tive plant commonly found in southern France where its
plant is commonly
fresh water until the
fresh water the lemons
lemons become
become soft. Strain offthe
soft. Strain off the water.
elegant, denticulated leaves are
denticulated leaves are eaten, when young,
eaten, when young, as
as a
Dry the lemons and put them to marinate marinate in the following
salad. It has emollient
emollient qualities.
qualities.
sauce:
ACARNE
ACARNE -- Name giveil to the European fish
Name given fish commonly
commonly Pound a
Pound onion, a
large onion,
a large a pimento,
pimento, andand a large piece of
a large
known
known as sea bream.
bream. grnger
ginger to a fine
fine paste mortar. (Ginger,
paste in a mortar. (Ginger, as well
weil as allspice,
aUspice,
Bourbon
Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be bought
bought in
ACAVUS. AcAvE
ACAVE -- A variety of snail common in French
French
delicatessen shops.) Add vinegar
delicatessen shops.) vinegar and a teaspoon
teaspoon of of Bourbon
Bourbon
vineyards and gardens.
gardens.
saffron. Blend with sufficient best best quality olive oil to ensure
ensure
ACCOLADE, IN-
ACCOLADE, IN - A
A manner
manner of of arranging
arranging pieces
pieces of
of the same
same that the lemons, when packed into jars, will be completely completely
nature meat, poultry,
nature -- meat, fish -- back
poultry, fish back to
to back on one dish. This
This covered.
covered.
method
method ofof presentation was much
presentation was much in vogue
vogue in
in the olden
olden days. Palnetto achar (Creole
Palmetto achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS
ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs
PALMISTES - -
Palmettos (palm cabbage)
Palmettos cabbage) can can be bought in
be bought in delicatessen
delicatessen
shops. Remove carefully from the can,
shops. can, discard
discard thethe oil in
which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive olive
oil.
achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS
Vegetable achar
Vegetable ACHARDS os DE rfcuMts
LÉGUMES - -
Remove the seeds and pulp
seeds and from I1 or 2 cucumbers, and
pulp from
the insides
the insides from large pimentos. Cut
from 22 large cucumbers, pimentos,
Cut cucumbers,
carrots and French beans into
several carrots
and several into thin strips about
about
4 cm. (l|(11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and
roughly chopped cabbage
roughly cabbage leaves.
leaves.
Macerate these
Macerate vegetables for 36 hours.
these vegetables hours. Drain
Drain thoroughly,
Chickens served en accolade
Chickens served
dry, season with sauce
dry, and season sauce described
described in the recipe
recipe for Lemon
Lemon
achar above.
ACELINE -- French
ACELIIYE name for
French name for a European fish
a European fish a a little
To preserve
preserve the achar, spoon into glass preservingpreserving jars,
jars,
resembling the perch.
resembling the perch. Its flesh isis quite good
Its flesh and itit isis prepared
good and prepared
completely with good
coyer completely
cover good quality olive oil, and and seal the
like perch
like perch (q.v.).
(q.v.).
jars
jars hermetically.
hermetically.
ACETABULUM. ACÉTABULE -
ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E - The ancient Romans used
AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r
ACHILLEA ACHILLÉE - Plant, of which
- Plant, which one
the word acetabulum to describe
word acetabulum describe the vessel that held the
the vessel
Achillea ptarmica,
species, Achillea which grows in woods, is edible.
ptarmica, which edible.
vinegar. It
vinegar. lt was
was also
also used measure in medicine.
used as a measure medicine.
Its tender young
Its young leaves
leaves are added
added to salads.
salads.
ACETIC ACID. lcfnqun
ACETIC ACID. ACÉTIQUE -- The acid which
which forms
forms the
the basis
basis
ACID. ACIDE -- A chemical hydrogen
AcIDE hydrogen compound recognis-
recognis-
vinegar. It
of vinegar.
of It is used in
is used in cooking sugar
sugar in confectionery.
confectionery.
its property
by its
able by pro pert y of causing litmus solution to turn red.
of causing red.
ACETIFICATION. ACÉTIFICATION -
ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN chemical reaction
- The chemical reaction used in cooking are vinegar,
The acids most commonly used
caused by a
caused by yeast (Mycoderma
a yeast (Mycoderma aceti). Aided by
aceti). Aided by various
various lemon juice
lemon juice and verjuice.
industrial
industrial processes
processes (see VINEGAR), it
(see VINEGAR), it transforms
transforms wine
wine
ACIDIFIERS (Bilible).
ACIDIFIERS (Edible). ACIDIFIANTS- Foods that
ACIDIFIANTS - Foods that build
build up an
alcohol (or
alcohol alcoholic liquid)
other alcoholic
(or other liquid) into
into acetic
acetic acid.
acid.
excess of
of acid in the
the system, leading to acidification of the
system, leading
ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns Instrument for
ACETIMETER. ACÉTIMÈTRE -- Instrument for assessing
assessing the
the body fluids.
body fluids.
degree of
degree concentration of
of concentration of vinegar.
vinegar. Acid-tasting fruits are not
Acid-tasting necessarily acidifiers; nor
not necessarily nor do

2
 ACROAMA

the
the latter possess an
necessarily possess
latter necessarily acid taste;
an acid lemons, for
taste; lemons, ACORN. cLAND
GLAND - Fruit of the
- Fruit ttre oak
oak tree.
tree. Sorne types are
Some types
example, are not acidifiers. and were
edible and were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they
Meat
Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta
pasta and bread
bread discovered cereals. In sorne
discovered some countries, such as Spain, acorns
:rcorns
are powerful acidifiers;
are acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish,
fish, eggs,
eggs, butter,
butter, roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory
are eaten raw or roasted. chicory
fats,
fats, chocolate, asparagus, hop
chocolate, asparagus, shoots, Brussels
hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, has costive properties)
has is used
properties) is as aa substitute
used as for coffee.
substitute for
artichokes, onions, chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts,
onions, chestnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts For this purpose the roasted
roasted acorns of thethe ballota oak are
and almonds less seriously so. most commonly
commonly used.
used.
ACIDIFY. AcTDTFIER -
ACIDIFIER - To add acid (lemon juice, vinegar
add acid BARNACLE. slrlNn
ACORN BARNACLE. BALANE - A small
- A small shellfish with a
or verjuice) to a culinary preparation.
preparation. conical irregular shell which is found in all ail seas, attached to
rocks. It
rocks. It is
is also called acorn
also commonly called shell and
acorn shell and turban
ACIDITY. lcIorrf
ACIDITÉ -- Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain
shell.Itsflesh
shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate prepared like crab
delicate and is prepared crab (q.v.).
vegetables and fruit and disappears
disappears or diminishes as a result
of a'blanching' operation (see BLANCHING).
a 'blanching' operation BLANCHING).
Nowadays, the
Nowadays, acidity of a
the acidity a liquid
liquid is measured in
is measured in pH
units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydro-
chloric acid), to
chloric acid), to 7, indicates a
7, which indicates a completely
completely neutral
neutral
substance. The scale continues above
The scale above 7 to indicate degrees of
indicate degrees
alkalinity (opposite of acidity).
alkalinity acidity).
Tbe acidity scale shows
The the degree of aeidity
shows the acidity of certain
foods.
foods. Acorn barnacles
barnacles stuck to a piece
piece of
of shell

14 Sodium
ACQUETTE
ACQUEITE -- An old, spirituous spirituous and very aromatic liquor,
very aromatic
much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its
t3
13 appearance resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig
appearance (Danzig
eau de
eau de ure). There are
vie). There are two
two varieties: acquette (in
silver acquelle
varieties: silver
12 Italian bianca), and gold acquelle
Italian aqua bianca), acquette (aqua doro).
d'oro).
Sodium cyanide
Silver acquette is made as follows:
1- Caffeine
11 Sodium carbonate cinnamon
Ceylon cinnamon g. (8 oz.)
225 s.
Cloyes
Cloves 25 s.
g. (L
(1 oz.)
10 Phenol
Nutmeg
Nutmeg 25 g. (l
(1 oz.)
85° alcohol
85" 20 litres (4|
20litres (4t gallons, 5t 5] gallons)
Ammonia

~~r
Steep these various ingredients in the alcoholfor
Steep these alcohol for 24 hours,
- 0
-J-
then distil
then distil without
without rectifying; you will
rectifying; you obtain 20
will obtain 20 litres
(4| gallons, 5f
(41 gallons, 51 gallons)
gallons) liqueur. kg. (55
«1-
~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~ \
l{l liqueur. Dissolve 25 25 kg. (55 lb.)
i;t
of soda
::.::::> 8. Bicarbonate
-J-I Soawater sugar in IIII litres (2|
(2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the
«0
Cf)
ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...
\o
-.j

syrup obtained as
syrup as aa result of the distillation.
result of Leave to rest for
distillation. Leave

:: };~:~.::~OD ~) \
NEUTRALITY
NEUTRALITY the time
the time required, filter and put a crushed
required, filter crushed silver
silver leaf
leaf into each
each

c~1
bottle.
bottle.
i
~
Hydrogen {s~ To prepare goldgo Id acquette take:
-1- 5 peroxide
.4 cinnamon
Ceylon cinnamon g. (8 oz.)
225 s.
u::> SWEAT ~
.4
«-J 5 chloride
Zincchloride
Zinc o
~ Cl oveS
Cloves g. (l
15 s. (t oz.)
o
Cf)
q.
Angelica roots
Angelica g. G
75 e. (3 oz.)
Daucus of Crete
Crete 75 g. (3 oz:)
';1
Beer
Bgel
4 Lacticacid
Lactic acid Fresh lemon (peel of)
Fresh a0 g. (r|
40 s. (lJ oz.)
Orange iuice
0range juice
Wine
85'alcohol
85° alcohol 20 litres (4|
20litres (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons)
3· Grape iuice
Grapo iuice Proceed as
Proceed as for preparing silver acquette, with just one
Lomonjuice
Lemon
crushed gold leaf into each bottle.
difference, that you put a crushed bottle.
iuice
GASTRfC JUIGE
GASIBIC JUICE
Acaticacid
acid
ACRIDOPHAGE
ACRIDOPHAGE -- One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food
Acstic
epicures of Europe, but
may seem extraordinary to the epicures but it is
Pi cric scid
Picric acid quite acceptable gastronomes. It appears
acceptable to African gastronomes. appears that
that the
taste locusts resembles, ifif somewhat
of locusts
tas te of somewhat remotely,
remotely, that of
of raw
Hydrochloric acid
Hydrochloric shrimps.
ACROAMA -- A Greek word,
A Greek adopted by
word, adopted by the
the Romans,
Acidity
Acidity scale
scale meaning 'that
meaning 'that to which
which one listens', further
one listens', further extended to
mean 'that to which one payspays attention'.
To
To better entertair
entertah their guests, the patricians made a
guests, the
ACIDULA TE. acnurnn
ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULER -
- To render
render a dish
dish slightly acid, habit of
habit of summoning
summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted,
enacted,
sour or piquant by the addition of
piquant by of lemon, vinegar, etc. at times, very licentious
licentious scenes),
scenes), men and women dancers,
dancers,
jugglers,
jugglers, acrobats, tumblers,
tumblers, dwarfs even gladiators
dwarfs and even gladiators and
ACIDULATED. acnulE
ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULÉ -- Term which is
Term which is only used
used to
savage beasts to perform
savage beasts perform while
while the meal was in progress.
progress.
describe mineral
describe minerai waters
waters charged
charged with
with carbonic
carbonic acid.
acid.
To the Romans this word acroama
acroama meant not only thesethese
ACON -- An
ACON An implement
implement used by by French mussel
mussel farmers to types of entertainment,
various types entertainment, butbut also
also the
the performers
performers
gather
gather the mussels from
the mussels from the
the mussel beds in the
mussel beds coye of
the cove themselves.
themselves.
Aiguillon, near La Rochelle.
Aiguillon, near The custom of the auoaftro
acroama continued
continued through the cen-
The use
The of this
use of this tool
tool dates
dates back It isis mentioned
back to antiquity. It mentioned but was renamed
turies but entremets ('between courses').
renamed entremets courses'). These
in Charlemagne's Capitularies. entremets had nothing
entremets common with what
nothing in common what today
today describes
describes

3
ACTINIA
ACTINIA

aa course
course ofof vegetables or aa sweet
vegetables or sweet course
course served towards the
served towards the Strain the
Strain juices, remove
panjuices,
the pan removeexcess fatand
excessfat reduce totothe
andreduce the
end meal Acroama,
of aa meal.
end of Acroama,and the'spectacular
and the entremets'that
'spectacular entremets' that desired consistency.
desired consistency.
succeeded it, were
succeeded it, were enacted all through
enacted ail through the
the meal.
meal. the agami
Place the
Place agami onon aaserving dishsurrounded
serving dish surroundedbybythe the
ACTINIA (Sea (Ser anemone). lcnNm -- Although
anemone). ACTINIE Although actiniae
actiniae
garnishes. Coat
garnishes. with the
Coat with thesauce.
sauce.
ACfINIA
are urticating
are (stinging) animais,
urticating (stinging) animals, they
they are
are used
used as food inin
as food
AGAPE(Love
AGAPE (Iove feast) Thiswas
feast)-- This the name
wasthe nameof ofthethemeal which
mealwhich
certain localities.
certain localities. The
The inhabitants
inhabitants of of southern
southern coasts
coasts of of
France relish
relish aa species
species of actinia which
of actinia which they call rastègne
they cali rasftgne and
the early
the early Christians
Christians heldheld together church, ininmemory
together ininchurch, memory of of
France and
maintain that
that their
their taste
taste resembles that of
resembles that of crabs.
crabs.
the Last Supper.
the Last Supper. The The Council
Council of of Carthage abolished the
Carthage abolished the
maintain
Actiniae have
Actiniae have toto be thoroughly beaten
be thoroughly beaten before cooking to
before cooking to
agapes
agapes inin A.D.
a.o.397
397in n order put an
order totoput anend
endtotothe
thecalumnies
calumniesofof
tenderise them.
them. They
They can then be which they
which theywere theobject.
were the object.
tenderise can then fried, made
be fried, made intointo fritters,
fritters,
omelettes, etc.
etc. The
The meals
meals held
held by
by the earlyChristians
theearly Christians ininthe catacombs inin
thecatacombs
omelettes,
memory of
memory of the martyrs were
the martyrs were also calledagapes.
also called agapes.
ADOC -- Name
ADOC Name sometimes given to
sometimes given to sour milk.
sour milk. This word
This word nowadays
nowadays isisused
used totodefine
define an importantfamily
an important family
ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION meal.
meal.
ADULTERATION. FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate
deliberate lowering
lowering
of the
of quality of
the quaJity of foodstuffs for the
foodstuffs for purpose
the pur pose of illicit gain.
of illicit gain.
AGAR-AGAR (Bengal
AGAR-AGAR (Bengal isinglass) productobtained
isinglass) -- AA product obtained from
from
A:GINETIA. .EcrNErrE -- The
/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE The type type genus
genus ofof this
this plant,
plant, various seaweeds,
various seaweeds, known known also also as as Japanese
Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon
Ceylon
Eginetia indica,
/Eginetia indigenous to
indica, isis indigenous to the
the East Indies. The
East Indies. The natives
natives moss.
MOSS.
of the coast
of of Malabar
coast of Malabar cali call itit tsiem-cumulu
tsiem-cumulu and blend itit with
and blend with Agar-agar
Agar-agar isis collected
collected in in the
the form
form of of thin,
thin, crinkly,
crinkly, whitish,
whitish,
nutmeg and
nutmeg and sugar
sugar to form an
to form an excellent (chewing-
mascatory (chewing-
excellent mascatory transparent
transparent strips. strips. ItIt swells slightly inin cold
swells slightly coldwater
water and
and con-
con-
gum) used
gum) for strengthening
used for strengthening the the teeth
teeth and combating bad
and combating bad siderably
siderably so in boiling
so in boiling water,
water, in which itit finally
in which dissolves. AA
finally dissolves.
breath. fairly stiff
fairly jelly can
stiff jelly can be be obtained
obtained from from it,it, which
which isis used
usedinin
bacteriology.
bacteriology.
AEGIS OFOF RHODES.
RHODES. AEGISmcn DE RHoDEs -- One
DE RHODES of the
One of the seven
seven
great masters
great of ancient
masters of ancient Greek
Greek cuisine (third century
cuisine (third
Its neutral
Its neutral taste makes itit suitable
taste makes suitable forfor use
usein incooking
cookingand and
century B.C.).
B.c.).
confectionery,
confectionery, and for making
and fot jellies.
making jellies.
in the
He excelled in art of
the art of cooking
cooking fish.
fish.
ItIt isis by
by regurgitating
regurgitating seaweed
seaweed of of this
this type
type that
that the
the salan-
salan-
AFFINAGE -- WordWord used in the
used in the French
French cheese industry to
cheese industry to gane (Chinese swalIow)
gane (Chinese swallow) buildsbuilds itsits nest,
nest, soso much
much prized
prized byby
the process
describe the
describe of ripening
process of or maturing
ripening or maturing cheese in
cheese in the
the Chinese
Chinese under under the
the na me of'bird's
name of 'bird's nest',
nest', for
for which
whichfactory-
factory-
temperature'controlled
tempera ture-controlJed cellars.
cellars. made
made agar-agar
agar-agar isis often
often passed-off
passed-off in in the
the West.
West.
AFFRIANDER -- French
AFFRIANDER culinary term
French cuJinary term which
which means
means to
to
Agar-agar
Agar-agar always always contains
contains the the carapaces
carapaces of of dia toms
diatoms
(microscopic
(microscopic unicellular
unicellular algae)
algae) easiJy
easily identifiable
identifiable under
under thethe
tempt; to
tempt; to attract
attract by pleasant appearance
by the pleasant appearance of
of aa dish.
dish.
microscope.
microscope. This This factor
factor makes
makes possible
possible the the rapid
rapid detection
detection
AFTER-TASTE.
AFfER-T ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste
ASTE. ARRIÈRE-GOÛT that returns
Taste that to the
returns to the of any fraudulent
ofany fraudulent use use of the product.
ofthe product.
mouth after ingestion of certain foods
mouth foods and
and beverages.
beverages.
AGARIC
AGARIC -- A A family
family ofof fungi
fungi with
with aa compact
compact capcap and
and radiat-
radiat-
AGAMI (Trumpeter) -- A bird of
of the wader
wader family
family of
of which
which
ing gills, that
ing gilIs, that grows
grows profusely
profusely in in damp
damp andand shaded
shaded places,
places,
the Guiana agami
the agami is typical. Its
is typicaJ. Its flesh
flesh has
has appreciable
appreciable merit.
merit.
and
and isis also
also found
found inin fields,
fields, on
on tree
tree trunks,
trunks, in
in caves
caves and
and onon
The agami
The agami isis used
used inin cookery
cookery mainly
mainly inin South
South America,
America, decayed
boild in consommé
boiled consomm6 or braised with rice. decayed wood.
wood. There
There are are about
about 2000
2000 known
known species
speciesofof
agarics
agarics andand quite
quite aa large
large number
number of of them
them are
are edible.
edible. The
The
Its flesh has
has a pleasant flavour but is
pleasant flavour is rather dry,
dry, although
although
poisonous
poisonous species
species are
are chiefly
chiefly found
found among
among thethe genus
genus called
called
less so
so in the domesticated
domesticated bird.
Amanita.
Amanita.
Among
Among the the edible
edible agarics
agarics are
are the
the following:
following:
Edible
Edible agaric or cultivated
agaric or cultivated mushrooms,
mushrooms, grown grown inin the
the
quarries
quarries around
around Paris
Paris -- thethe c1assic
classic type
type of
of mushroom.
mushroom. This This
is
is often
often described
described under
under the term champignon
the tenn champignon without
without any
any
other
other qualification.
qualification.

Agami
Agami

Agami tràhla chilienne

chilienne -- Choose
Choose asas tender an an agami
agami asas pos-
sible. Pluck, draw, singe c1ean it.
singe and clean it. Prepare
Prepare aa garnish of of
rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. BardBard itit and
and put
put to
to
braising pan with
braise in a braising with the
the usual
usual accompaniments
accompaniments of of
vegetables and
vegetables and spices,
spices, and some
sorne dry
dry white
white wine.
wine.
braise in
Separately, braise veal jelly
in veal stock 12
jelly stock medium-sized
12 medium-sized
onions stuffed
onions stuffed withwith a salpicon (q.v.)
a salpicon (q.v.) of
of sweet pimentos
sweet pimentos
blended with
with a a few
few tablespoons of reduced velouté
of reduced velouti (q.v.).
Prepare also
Prepare also 450
450 g.g. (l
(lIb.) Okra in
lb.) Okra in tomato
tomato sauce
sauce (sec,
(see OKRA).
OKRA).
As soon
As soon as
as the
the agami
agami is is cooked,
cooked, remove
rem ove from the braising
from the braising
pan. Glaze itit in
pan. Glaze in the
the oven.
oyen. A
A type
type of agaric which
ofagaric which has
has very
very distinctive
distinctive ridges
ridges on
on the underside of the cap
the underside ofthe cap

4
 AILLADE
AILLADE

Royalagaric,
Royal agaric,agaric
agaricodorain
odorainor or St.
St.George's
George'sagaric andthe
agaricand the Ingredients. 150
Ingredients. g. (5
150 g. oz., I1cup)
(5 oz., cup) sweet almonds, I1litre
sweet almonds' litre
cultivatedagaric
cultivated agaricare arealso found ininthe
also found theParis
Parisregion'
region. 1tfi generous quart)
pints, generous
(I~ f,ints, verjuice, tt litre
quart) verjuice, (scant pint,
litre (scant pint,
Among the
Among the poisonous
poisonous species
species are are Amanita
Amanita phalloides
phalloides Z*hipO waterand
2* cups)waier 150g.g.(5(5oz.,
and 150 oz.,! brown or
cup)brown
I cup) orgranulated
granulated
(death cap)
(death cap) and
and Amanita verna (glll)
Amanita vernn (gill)(see
(seeMUSHROOMS).
MUSHROOMS) . sugar.
sugar.
-Method
Toprepare
To prepareedible
edibleagarics,
agarics, saute
sautéininaa shallow
shallowpan
panininoil
oil or
or preparation. Blanch
Method ofofpreparation' almonds after
the almonds
Blanch the after having
having
butter ; dress
butter; dress with
with herbs,
herbs, Creon
Cream sauce SAUCE), rià /ala
(see SAUCE),
sauce (see scalded them with
scalded them boilingwater.
with boiling Pound them
water. Pound them ininaamortar
mortarasas
provençale, dà la
provmgale, la bordelarse (see GARNISHES).
bordelaise (see GARNISHES). They They cancan finely
finely as moisteningthem
possible, moistening
aspossible, with aa little
them with littleof thewater'
ofthe water.
also be
also be used
used as
as aa garnish
garnish for
for aa large
large number
number ofofdishes.
dishes. When thiy
When dilutewith
paste,dilute
fonn aapaste,
theyform with the restof
the rest ofthe waterand
the water and
verjuice
verjuice and through aa napkin,
strain through
and strain th en put
napkin, then under aa press
putunder press
AGATHON -- Poet, Poet, born
born in
in Athens,
Athens, and not in
and not in Samos,
Samos, as as
AGATHON extract all
to lxtract
to ail thethe liquid.
liquid . l+ dl. (t
It dl' pint, !f cup)
(! pint, white vinegar
cup) white vinegar
certain authors
authors maintain.
main tain.
certain combined with
combined with I1litrelitre (lf
(là- pints, generous quart)
pints, generous water may
quart) water may
His sumptuous repasts
His sumptuous repasts gave
gave rise
rise to
to aa great
great deal
deaJ ofofjesting
jesting
substituted for
he substituted
be for the verjuice and
the verjuice and water.
water.
on the
the part
part of
of Aristophanes
Aristophanes andand other
other dramatists.
dramatists. SomeSorne
on Sweeten the
Sweeten Iiquid with
the liquid with the sugar, or'
brown sugar'
the brown or, ifif this
this isis not
not
people claim
claim that
that Plato's
Plato's Banquet was composed
Banquet was composed at at his
his table.
table.
people available, granuhted
available, granulated sugar, sugar, and through aa napkin
strain through
and strain napkin
AGA VE -- A
AGAVE A genus
genus of of South
South American
American plants beJonging to
plants belonging to again, but
once again,
once this time
but this without pressing.
time without pressing.
the family
the family Agavaceae native of
Agavaceae -- aa native Mexico. In
of Mexico. In Cuba
Cuba and
and Stand mixture in
this mixture
Stand this an ice
in an surrounded by
bucket, surrounded
ice bucket, by aa mix-
mix-
Mexico its
Mexico its pulp
pulp isis fermented
fennented to
to make
make an
an alcoholic
alcoholic beverage
beverage ture of
ture cru shed ice
of crushed ice and
and seasea salt allowing l0
salt), allowing
(coarse salt),
salt (coarse 10 per
per
called pulque.
called pulque. cent of
cent salt, and
of salt, leave to
and leave to chill' Loosen the
chilI. Loosen the parts which get
parts which get
stuck to
stuck to the sides of
the sides of the ice bucket
the ice about every
bucket about every 15 J 5 minutes'
minutes.
AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi
AGNOLOTTI. Agnolotti ià la la pi6montaise
piémontaise (Italian
(ltalian cookery)
cookery)- - When
When the mixture acquires
whole mixture
the whole granulated texture,
acquires aa granulated texture, serveserve
Prepare aa noodle
Prepare noodle paste
paste in in the
the following manner: put
following manner: put 450
450 g.
g. it in sherbet adding half
glasses, adding
sherbet glasses, coffeespoon of
ha If aa coffeespoon of kirsch
kirsch to to
(l(I lb.,
lb., 44 cups)
cups) flour
flour in
in aa circle
circle oror 'fountain'
'fountain' on table. In
on aa table. In the
the
each glass.
each glass.
middle of
middle of this
tbis circle
circle put
put 44 egg
egg yolks,
yolks, 20
20 g.g. (a
(a generous
generous table-
table-
spoon) butter,
spoon) butter, aa pinch
pinch of salt and I1 dl.
of salt dl. (6
(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scantscant AGUAXIMA - A
AGUAXIMA species of
A species of Brazilian pepper not
Brazilian pepper very dif-
not very dif-
*t cup)
cup) water.
water. ferent from ordinary
ordinary PePPer.
pepper.
Knead for l0
Knead 10 minutes
minutes but but avoid
avoid giving
giving too too much body to
much body to
AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclri-
AGUNCATE. AGUNCATÉ-A fruit grown
A fruit grown in in Peru,calledpalta
Peru, calledpalta
the paste.
paste. Allow
Allow to to rest
rest for l0 10 minutes.
the shaped like
Lima. ItIt isis shaped
in Lima. calabash (gourd),
like aa calabash (gourd), is green in
is green in colour
colour
Roll out the
Roll out the paste
paste with aa rolling-pin
rolling-pin as as thinly
thinly as possible.
possible.
has a varniJhed
and has appearance. Its
varnished appearance. Its skin
skin comes away from
cornes away from
Place walnut-sized
Place walnut-sized piecespieces ofof forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT,
FORCEMEAT,
the flesh easily when the fruit ripe. This
fruit is ripe. flesh, somewhat
This flesh, somewhat
forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them
Beefforcemeat) common with
Beef eaten with salt. It
insipid, is eatCn It has something in in common with
55 cm.
cm. (2 inches) from
(2 inches) from the the edge
edge of thethe paste
paste andand 5 cm.
cm. (2 (q'v.).
the flesh ofof avocado
avocado Pear pear (g .v.).
inches) from
inches) from each
each other.
other.
Fold the overIapping AIGRE DE
AIGRE (French name
CDDRE (French
DE CÈDRE for Citr~
Dame for medica) --
Citnrs medica)
Fold overlapping edge edge of the paste over over this row of
agnolotti. Press down
down around
around each heap of forcemeat, to
each heap Fruit of cultivated
of a citron tree cultiva in Provence,
ted in Provence, around Grasse
around Grasse
agnolotti. Press
make the
make paste stick
the paste stick weil.
well. CutCut out agnolotti with
the agnolotti
out the with a and Nice, also
and Nice, at San
also at Remo and
San Remo and near
near Genoa in Italy.
Genoa in It
Italy. It
crescent-shaped,
crescent-shaped, fluted-edged
fluted-edged pastry-cutter,
pastry-cutter, thus thus obtaining makes a very refreshing summer drink.
summer drink.
little
little turnovers.
turnovers. An aiguillette thin slice
means aa thin slice cut
AIGUILLETTE -- An aiguillette means cut
Poach
Poach themthem in in boiling
boiling water
water for l0 minutes,
for 10 minutes, allowing lengthways on poultry and
the breast of poultry
on the and winged game.
winged game.
22 teaspoons
teaspoons salt salt per
per litre (lfà- pints,
litre (1 pints, generous
generous quart)quart) water. Slrictly speaking,
Strictly speaking, the word should only he
should only be used
used to describe
to describe
Drain,
Drain, and and place
place inin aa dish
dish.. fowl, but itit isis often
often used when
used wh referring to thin
to thin
thin slices
tbin slices of fowl, en referring
Make
Make aa saucesauca from
from the the braised
braised beef
beef left
left over from the
over from slices of
slices of meat, e.g., 'cut
meat, e.g., of beef
fillet of
'cut aa fillet into aiguillettes'
beef into aiguillettes'..
forcemeat.
forcemeat. Serve Serve this and and grated
grated Pannesan
Parmesan cheese with the
cheese with Aiguillette is
Aiguillette is a/so used to
also used to descrihe the top
describe the rump (see
top rump BEEF).
(see BEEF).
agnolotti
agnolotti..
AGONE
AGOIYE D'ISTRIA
D'ISTRIA (Smaris
(Smarh graerlis). AcoN -- ln
graerlis). AGON Italy itit isis
In Italy
known
known under
under the
the name
name of sardina and
of sardina and indeed
indeed itit has
has much
much the the
same
same flavour and isis similar
flavour and similar inin size to the
size to the sardine.
sardine. Ali All the
the
recipes
recipes given
given for
for sardines
sardines (q.v.)
(q.v.) can
can hebe applied
applied to it. Like
to it. Like
sardines, agone can
sardines, agone can bebe salted
salted..
AGORANOME
AGORANOME -- InspectorInspector of of markets
markets in in ancient
ancient Greece.
Greece.
He
He controlled
controlled the price of
the price of produce
produce and
and was
was responsible for
responsible for
the
the implementation
implementation of of the
the laws
laws relating
relating to
to its
its markets.
markets. The
The
agoraiome of
agoranome of the
the Greeks
Greeks corresponds
corresponds to to the of the
aedile of
the aedile the
Romans.
Romans.
AGOU
AGOU -- Agou Agou or or negroes'
negroes' sago sd8'o resembles
resembles small-grain
small-grain
millet.
millet. This
Thisgraingrain isisof
of brownish-grey
brownish-grey colour with aa yellow
colour with yellow
spot where itjoins
spot where it joins the
thestem.
stem.ItIt isiscooked
cooked like
likerice.
rice. Flour
Flour made
made
from
from itit isis used
used toto make
makecakes
cakesand andporridge.
porridge.
AGOUTI
AGOUTI -- Rodent Rodent the
the size
sizeof
ofaahare
hare found
found ininBrazil
Brazil(where
(where
Agouti
Agouti
ilit isiscalled cotia), Guiana,
calledcotia), Guiana, the theDominican
Dominican Republic,
Republic, andand
generallythroughout
generally throughoutthe theWest
WestIndies.
Indies.The
The agouti
agouti can
canlive
liveinin
Europeififititisisprotected
Europe protected from
from the
thecold.
cold. AILLADE - - Definition
AILLADE usedininthe
Definition used southof
thesouth ofFrance, which
France,which
The fleshisisgood
The flesh goodtotoeat,
eat,even
eventhough
though the theflavour
flavourisisrather
rather (Languedoc ororProvence)
according totothe
applies,according
applies, district (Languedoc
thedistrict Provence)
strong.
strong. ItItisisprepared
preparedlike
likesucking
suckingpigpig(see
(seePORK,
PORK, Piglet).
Piglet). butare
areaHallgarlic
garlic
totopreparations
preparationswhich differsomewhat
which differ somewhat but
AGRAS
AGRAS- - Agras
Agrasisisan
anAigerian
Algerianiced
icedbeverage;
beverage;totobe
bemore
more based.
based.
precise,
precise,aagranité.
graniti.Its
Itsmain
main ingredients
ingredientsare
arealmonds
almondsand
and Firstly,ail/ade
Firstly, ailladesauce, sortofofgarlic
santce,aasort garlicvinaigrette (q-v.)'
vinaigrette (q.v.),
verjuice.
verjuice. includingshallots,
sometimesincluding
sometimes shallots, chives andother
chivesand garnishes'
othergarnishes.

5
AIOLI
AÏOLI

Aillade sauce
Aillade sauceisisserved withco
served with cold meatand
Id meat andfish, withpotatoes
fish, with potatoes
and, generally, with
and, generally, with ail
alldishes
dishes served
servedàdlalavinaigrelle.
vinaigrette.
Secondly, bread
Secondly, bread àd l'aillade,
I'aillade,aa slice slice ofof toasted
toasted bread,
bread,
thoroughly rubbed
thoroughly rubbed with garlic and
with garlic andsprinkled
sprinkled with with olive oil.
olive oil.
This provengal aillade
This provençal aillade isisthe equivalent of
the equivalent of the Languedocian
the Languedocian
(garlic-rubbed
chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). Albatross
Albatross
chapon bread).
Certain authors
Certain authors also mention other
also mention other regional
regional preparations
preparations
known under
known under the the name
name of of aillade.
aillade. Among
Among these ari:
theseare:
Aillade albigeoise
Aillade albigeoise which which isis nothing
nothing more more than than anan aïoli
atoli
(q.v.).
Aillade d la la toulousaine
toulousaine which which isisalsoalso an atoliwithblanched
anaïoli with blanched
pounded walnuts
and pounded walnuts added.added. ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of
ALBUFÉRA
and
preparations are
these preparations very appetising but
are very but something
something chieflyCh,naictenStxj
dishes chiefly
dishes characterised by the sauce which goes with
Ali these
ofof-All
an acquired
an acquired taste, taste, garlic being being their outstanding
outstanding charac-charac-
them.
them.
teristic. Tbey
They are are excellent for for seasoning
seasoning salads.salads. Theterm
_The term d'AlbuJéra
d'Albufdra was probably first
was probably first used
usedeither
either by
by
teristic.
Car6me or
Carême or by
by his
his successor Plumerey,so
successor Plumerey, sothe
the recipeforfor
AIOLIoT
AÏOLI IILLOLI -- Peel
or AILLOU Peel4 4 large cloves of garlic, and pound
and pound Duckling àdlalad'AlbuJéra
Duckling d'Albufiraisis almost
almost certainly
certainly the authenticone.
one.
to aa fine
to paste in
fine paste mortar with I egg yolk. Season
in aa mortar Season withwith aa ItIt differs
differs slightly
slightly from
from the
themodem
modern version.
version.
pinch of of salt,
salt, and continue to
and continue pound, adding 21-
to pound, 2| dl.
dl. (scant
(scant Marshal Suchet
Suchet was
Marshal was made Duke of
made Duke Albuf6rainin1812
ofAlbuféra l812 after
after
] pint, generous
generous cup) olive oil
cup) olive oil little
little by little, as
by little, ior mayon-
as for mayon- the victories of
the victories of Oropéza,
Orop6za, M Murviedro
urviedro and
and Valencia
Valenciainin Spain.
Stir this
naise. Stir this mixture
mixture vigorously.
vigorously. When finished, itit should
When finished, should The lake
The lake of of Albuféra
Albuf6ra isis near
near Valencia. (See DUCK.
Valencia. (See
have the
have the appearance
appearance of thick smooth
of aa thick smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e.
mayonnaise. cHrcKEN.)
CHICKEN.)
Aioli isis served
Afoli mainly with
served mainly with boiled
boiled fish,fish, hot or or cold,
cold, but
but
can also
can also be be served
served with with cold
cold meal,
meat, or or used
used as seasoning for
as aa seasoning for ALBUMEN -- AA constituent
ALBUMEN constituent of of seeds containing food
seeds containing food
salads and
salads cooked vegetables.
and cooked vegetables. for the
reserves for
reserves plant in
the plant in germination. Albumen
Albumen isissometimes
sometimes
Garnishod aïoli.
Garnish.ed .liou GARNI
aio[. AÏOLI cARNr -- This dish, very popular in
This dish, farinaceous, as
farinaceous, in cerealssuch
as in such as asmaize,
maize, barley,
barley, corn
corn and and
Provence, is is composed of of aa variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s,
ingredients, such as rye; sometimes
rye; sometimes oilyoily or
or fleshy
fleshy as
as in
in coconut
coconut palm
palm and
and in in black
black
Provence,
boiled cod, cod, snails cooked cooked in in salt water,
water, fennel, onions poppy. In
poppy. In certain palms itit acquires
certain palms acquires thethe hardness
hardness of of ivory.
ivory.
boiled onions
with cloves, boiled
stuck withcloves, boiled carrots,
carrots, french
french beans, artichokes
beans, artichokes The albumen
The albumen contained
contained in in coconuts in the
coconuts isis in the fonn
form of of an
an
stuck
cooked in in salt
salt water,
water, unskinned potatoes, bard-boiled
unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, outer layer surrounding
outer layer surrounding the inner cavity that
the inner that contains
contains the the
cooked eggs,
Small octopi, boiJed
etc. Small boiled in in salted
salted water with herbs, herbs, are some-
are some-
liquid commonly
liquid commonly known known as as cocon
coconut ut milk.
etc.
times added. All these are arranged on aa large dish and and served
served
with aïoli.
with aioli.
The preparation of
The of this
this dish, says J. B. Reboul, one
J. B. one of thethe
maitres de la cuisine
maitres provengale, demands aa great
cuisine provençale, great deal
deal ofof Section ofa
Section of a grain ofcorn
grain or corn showing
showing
artistic arrangement.
artistic arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have the albumen
the albumen
enumerated, however,
enumerated, however, are are absolutely essential. There is is no
no
set rule
set rule on on this point. One
this point. One should proceed proceed according to to one's
tastes and the
tas tes and means at one's disposal.
the means
Aïoli ili la
Aidi la grecqrre -- A kind of vinaigrette sauce
A kind which is
sauce which
prepared
prepared as as follows: combine combine pounded walnuts, walnuts, almonds Many types of grain are are used forfor their
their albumen
albumen in in domestic
domestic
and
and hazelnuts
hazelnuts with fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and and soaked in in economy, in medicine and
economy, and inin the
the arts.
arts. Thus
Thus cereals
cereals provide
provide
milk,
milk, andand pounded
pounded garlic. BJend with oil, vinegar and lemon
garlic. Blend with flour;
us with
us flour; thethe coffee
coffee shrub
shrub wüh with anan alkaloid known
known as as
juice. Serve with
juice. Serve with fried
fried and boiled
boiled fish. caffeine; the poppy with
black poppy
the black with poppyseed
poppyseed oil,oil, used
used almost
almost
AISY unlve:rSélllv
universally as food. The
as aa food. The seeds
seeds of certain species of of water-
water-
AISY - Name given to the (soured)
Name given left over from the
(soured) whey !eft lilies,
lilies, very pleasant to the palate, palate, are much
much used in Cbina
China andand
scalding of
scalding of milk
milk usedused in prod uction of Gruytre. This
in the production Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a speciesspecies of pine that growsgrows
whey
whey is used to
is used cbeeses of an
to make cheeses an inferior quality called in Provence
in Provence and and Italy contain
serai.The contain an an oily,
oily, delicately flavoured
serai. The aisy stored in barrels and added to daily &s more
is stored
aisy is
whey albumen, which makes them much valued valued inin confectionery,
confectionery,
becomes available.
whey becomes
particularly in the manufacture
manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several
Several
ALARIA - A
ALARIA genus of
A genus of seaweed of which five five species are species
species of of palm tree provide
provide both edible oil and and oil for light-
found in
found in the seas ofnorthern
the seas of northern Europe.
Europe. ing. Linseed oil
ing. Linseed oil cornes
comes from the seedsseeds of flax.
One
One variety,
variety, knownknown as badderIocks in
as badderlocks in Scotland
Scotland and A species
species of of dwarf
dwarf palm, foundfound in Peru, produces
produces aa large
murlins in
murlins in Ireland,
Ireland, flourishes
flourishes along the Atlantic
along the Atlantic coast
coast of
of the fruit which the natives call call cana or cabezo
cabezo de negro, When
de negro.
British Isles. It
British Isles. It is eaten in Scotland, in lreland,
is eaten Ireland, and in the the fruit is
the is green, thetbe albumen'of
albumen· of its its seeds
seeds isis aa pleasant-
Faroe
Faroe Islands.
Islands.. Only
Only the the slightly
sligbtly sweet central
central cartilaginous
cartilaginous tasting liquid which, when fermented, yields aa wine that that is
is
vein
vein is
is consumed.
consumed. much
mu ch appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when
wh en ripe,
The fruit, ripe,
ALBACORE (Yellowfin
ALBACORE tuBa) -- A
(YeLlowfin tura) large species of tunny
A large tunny becomes very hard and can be be put
put to the
the same
same uses
uses as ivory;
as ivory;
(tuna)
(tu na) fish.
fish. This
This isis also
also the
the Portuguese word for
Portuguese word for the
the sword-
sword- in fact itil is
in fact is exported underunder the
the name
name of of raw
raw ivory or vegetable
or vegetable
fish (q.v.).
fish (q.v.). ivory.
ivory. When When burned, burned, the
the product
product obtained
obtained compares
compares
favourably with ivory black, which is obtained obtained fromfrom ele-
ele-
ALBARELLE -- A
ALBARELLE A genus of edible fungi
of edible which grows
fungi which grows on
on phants' teeth
phants' teeth and
and tusks.
chestnut and white poplars.
trees and
chestnut trees poplars.
ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm
ALBATROSS. ALBATROS -- Sea bird with
Sea bird with very tough
tough flesh.
flesh.
ALBUMIN.
ALBUMIN. ALBUMTNE - Viscous
ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter
whitish matter with
with aa
slightly salty
slightly salty taste.
taste. An example is is white
white of
of egg,
egg, which
which con-
con-
That of the young
That ofthe young bird
bird isis eaten, nevertheless, and isis prepared
eaten, nevertheless, prepared tains albumin
tains albumin up up to 59 per
to 59 per cent
cent of
ofits
i18 total
total weight
weight (see
(see EGGS).
EGGS).
like Wild &tck
like Wild (see DUCK).
duck (see DUCK).
A}bumin is
Albumin also found in
is also ln blood
blood serum,
serum, in
in milk
milk and
and inin
ALBIGEOISE Garnish for
ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish for large
large and
and small
small cuts
cuts of meat. It
ofmeat. It plants, particularly in
plants, in the
the seeds of dried
seeds of dried vegetables. ItIt is
is for
for
consists of
consists ofstuffed
stuffed tomatoes and potato
tomatoes and potato croquettes.
croquettes. this reason
this reason that
that the water
water inin which
which peas,
peas, beans and
and lentils
lentils

6
 ALCAZAR
ALCAZAR

are
are cooked viscous when
becomes viscous
cooked becomes Albumin is
cooled. Albumin
when cooJed. Method. Slice
Method. onions and pimentos and
Slice the onions and brown them them inin
soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates
coagulates at aa tempera- slightly crushed
butter. Add slightly garlic. Sprinkle
crushed garlic. Sprinkle withwith flour,
flour, stir,
stir,
78-80'C. (172-176"F.)
ture of 78-80°e. (l72-l76°F.) andand then becomes insoluble. allow toto brown lightly, and
brown lightly, and addadd the
the meat (which has
meat (which has been
been
Albumin in the form of of aa thin yellowish transparent sedi- minced), breadcrumbs, and
minced), and seasoning.
seasoning. Add Add thethe egg
egg and
and
ment can be obtained by evaporating the white of egg
the white at a
egg at well. Moisten with aa little of
blend weil. of the stock
stock oror boiling water,
boiling water,
temperature of about 50°e. (122"F.).
50'C. (l22°F.). and leave
and leave toto simsimmer
mer for quarter of
for aa quarter of an
an hour.
hour.
Albumin is used in the confectionery
confectionery industry as as aa substi- Put this
Put this forecemeat mixture, while
forecemeat mixture, still hot,
while still into aa pastry
hot, into pastry
tute for white of egg in the manufacture
manufacture of certain kinds of of forcing-bag fitted ring. Hold
fitted with aa ring. Hold thethe bag over aa saucepan
bag over saucepan
whisked pastes
whisked pastes such as marshmallow, Montelimar
liquorice, Montélimar
marshmallow, liquorice, of boiling
of boiling stock
stock andand squeeze;
squeeze; cut off small
cut off small slices
slices ofof the
the
nougat and various meringue products. sausage,as
sausage as it it cornes out of
comes out of the
the bag.
bag. Sim
Simmer quenelles
these quenelles
mer these
It is also
also used
used as an egg
as an egg substitute inin the
the manufacture
manufacture of of in the boiling stock
in leaving the
stock leaving lid off
the lid off the pan.
the pan.
cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be dis- Chop the
Chop the tomatoes, soften them
tomatoes, soften them in in butter,
butter, andand add
add them
them
solved in about seven times its weight of co cold
Id water. to the
to the soup just before
soup just before itit is
is served.
served.
Albumin in the form of beaten whites of egg is used in the
clearing ofof wine.
ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINOïDES -- Substances
ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances possessing
akin to
properties akin to those albumin (coagulable by
those of albumin by heat),
proteinic substances.
also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic
in ail
They exist in all living organisms, animal or vege-
organisms, whether animal veg€-
table.
Chemical analysis
analysis reveals the same four basic
same four basic elements:
elements:
carbon, hydrogen, oxygen oxygen and nitrogen associated in
and nitrogen in vary-
ing quantities with other elements.
Albuminoids constitute
constitute one one of the
ttre essential elements
elements of of
our diet.
our Of aU
diet. Of all the
the substances we we generally eat, the only
eat, the only
ones lacking in albuminoids
albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone
an industrial purifying process su ch as
such as oil
oil and
and sugar.
sugar.
In dietetics,
ln dietetics, an an increased ration of
increased ration of albuminoids
albuminoids is is oc-
oc-
casionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but more
casionally prescribed more
frequently the Alcarazza
Alcarazza
the amount of albuminoids
albuminoids in the the diet
diet is
is reduced
when, forfor example,
cxample, the the kidneys failfail to
to eliminate
eliminate waste pro- pro-
ducts
ducts or the liver is unable to transformtransform them. ALCARRAZA (Water
ALCARRAZA (Water cooler). ALcARAZAS -- The
cooler). ALCARAZAS The French
French
Without going
Without going to to the
the extent
extent ofof reproducing
reproducing specialist
specialist have borrowed this
have borrowed this word from the
word from the Spanish,
Spanish, who who in in turn
turn
tables
tables of analyses, itit is
of analyses, is possible
possible to to divide
divide albuminoid or or borrowed itit from from the Arabic alkourraz
the Arabic (pitcher). In
alkourraz (pitcher). In Egypt,
Egypt,
nitrogenous food food into four categories:
categories: the alcarraza isis called
'the alcarraza called bardak; this has
bardak; this has become
become the the French
French
Very popooror in albumins (less
in albumins than 1I per cent):
(less than cent): green
green vege- bardague and
barclague and balasse. Bardak isis aa Turkish
balasse. Bardak Turkish word probably
word probably
tables,
tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes,
pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice,
rice, cream, butter, honey,
cream, butter, stemming
stemming from from the
the Arabic root bara,
Arabic root bara, meaning
meaning to to cool,
cool, and
and
sugar, oils. frorn which
from which isis derived (meaning, like
barradn (meaning,
derived barrada like alcarraza,
alcarraza, aa
(up to
Poor (up to 66 per cent):
cent): spinach,
spinach, artichokes, green green cab-
cab- vessel
vessel for
for cooling liquids) and
cooling liquids) and the
the Spanish
Spanish wordword albarrada.
albarrada.
bages, Brussels
bages, Biussels sprouts,
sprouts, chestn green peas,
uts, green
chestnuts, peas, cocoa,
cocoa, These porous, unglazed
These porous, unglazed jugsjugs ofof various
various shapes
shapes are filled
are filled
chocolate. with water and
with water and hung
hung in in the
the shade
shade inin aa draught.
draught. The The water
water
Rich (6
Rich (6 toto 1212 per
per cent):
cent): bread,
bread, Bours,
flours, cereals,
cereals, noodles, oozes
oozes through
through the the pores of the
pores of jug and
the jug and evaporates.
evaporates. The The
eggs.
eggs. hotter the
hotter the outside
outside temperature
temperature and and the drier the
the drier air, the
the air, the
Very
Very rich (I2 to
rich (12 to 3030 per
per cent):
cent): walnuts,
walnuts, almonds,
almonds, hazel-
hazel- quicker
quicker the the evaporation.
evaporation. The The heat
heat necessary
necessary for for evaporation
evaporation
nuts,
nuts, various
various meats,
meats, fish,
fish, dried
dried beans,
beans, dried
dried peas,
peas, lentils,
lentils, isis extracted
extracted fromfrorn the liquid inside
the liquid inside the jug, which
the jug, which isis thus
thus
beans,
beans, chick peas,peas, cheeses.
cheeses. cooled.
eooled.
ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican
ALBUNDIGAS (Mexican cookery) cookery) - TheThe originof
origin of ALCAZAR (Pâtisserie) - Line
ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)- Line aa sponge
sponge tin with Lining
tin with Lining pastepaste
albundigas appears to to be
be Spanish
Spanish or or Mexican. In Mexico itit
In Mexico (see
(see DOUGH).
DOUGH). Prick Prick thethe bottom
bottom and and spread
spread with with 22 table-
table-
is almost aa national
is national dish. spoons
spoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) apricotapricot jam.jam. Fil
Fill1 three-quarters
three-quarters of of
Combine
Combine 450 450 g. (l lb.)
g. (l Ib.) finely chopped fillet of
finely choppedfillet of beef
beef and
and the
the tintin with
with the
the following
following mixture:
mixture:
100
100 g.g. (4
(a oz.)
oz.) fairly coarsely
coarsely chopped
chopped fat fat bacon.
bacon. Season
Season with
with Ingredients. 125
Ingredients. 125 g. g oz.,
g. (4 oz., 1I cup)
cup) icing
icing sugar,
sugar, 44 egg egg whites,
whites,
salt and pepper.
pepper.Add Add aa little
little crushed
crushed garlic
garlic and
and aa teaspoon of of 60
ffi g.e.Q oz., tI cup)
(2 oz., cup) ground
gtound almonds,
almonds, 60 60 g.
g. (2 oz., tI cup)
(2 oz., cup) Bour,
flour,
chopped
chopped parsley,
parsley, andand bind with an an egg.
egg. Shape
Shape into
into thickish 25
25 g.g. (lQ oz.,
oz., 22 tablespoons)
tablespoons) meltedmelted butter,
butter, kirsch.
kirsch.
cakes.
cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into
into an
an ovenproof
ovenproof dish
dish and
and Method
Method of preparation. Beat
of preparation. Beat the
the sugar
sugar andand thethe egg
egg wrutes
whites
coyer with tomato
cover with tomato sauce.
sauce. Cook Cook in in the
the oyen
oven for
for 20
20 minutes.
minutes. over
.over gentle
gentle heat
heat toto obtain
obtain aa firm
firm meringue,
meringue, th en add
then add ground
ground
Serve
Serve with RiceRice àd la criole (see
la créole (see RICE).
RICE). almonds,
almonds, Bour flour and,
and, finally,
finally, melted
melted butter
butter mixed
mixed with with halfhalf aa
Albundigas
Albundigas can can also
also be be made
made from frorn aa mixture
mixture of of veal
veal and
and wine
wine glass
glass of kirsch. Spread
ofkirsch. Spread on on aa buttered
buttered and and Boured
floured baking
baking
pork. sheet.
sheet. Bake Bake in in the
the {)ven
'oven atat 180°e. (350'F., Gas
180"C. (350°F., Gas Mark
Mark 4) 4) for
for
The
The Mexicans also also have
have aa soupsoup called
called byby this
this na me :
name: 50
50 toto 60 minutes and
6O minutes and turn
tum outout onto
onto aa wire
wire tray.
tray.
Ingredients. For
Ingredients. litres (st
For 33 litres pints, 6t
(5f pints, 6| pints)
pints) light
light stock
stock oror Fit
Fit aa cloth
cloth piping-bag
piping-bag with with aa ftuted
fluted pipe,
pipe, andand fill
fill with
with un- un-
water, take 225 g.
take225 g. (8
(8 oz.)
oz.) fiUet
fillet of
of pork,
pork, vealveal or
or beef,
beef, 55 medium-
medium- cooked
cooked almondalmond paste paste in in the
the proportion
proportion of 450 g.g. (l(l lb.)
of 450 lb.) to
to
sized
sized onions,
onions, aa clove
clove ofof garlic,
garlic,44 green
green pimentos,
pimentos, 33 peeled
peeled and
and 450
450 g. (l lb.) (see
g. (lIb.) (see ALMOND,
ALMOND, Almond paste 1).
Almond paste 1). Pipe
Pipe aa lattice-
lattice-
deseeded
deseeded tomatoes,
tomatoes, 50 50 g.
g. (2 oz., tI cup)
(2 oz., cup) butter,
butter, 22 tablespoons
tablespootts work
work over over the
the pastry,
pastry, then
then pipe
pipe aa border.
border. Place
Place in in aa hot
hot oyen
oven
(3
(3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour,
flour, thethe samesame amount
amount of of sieved
sieved to
to col our the
colour the almond
almond paste.paste. Coyer
Cover withwith thick
thick apricot
apricot jam jam
breadcrumbs, t
breadcrumbs, I teaspoon
teaspoon coriander
coriander or or thyme,
thyme, or,or, better
better still,
still, and
and put put half
halfa a pistachio
pistachio nut nut inin the
the centre
centre of each lozenge.
ofeach lozenge.
marjoram,
marjoram, which which has has aa more
more delicate flavour, 1I egg
delicate Bavour, egg and
and 1I As an
As an alternative
alternative to to an
an almond
almond paste paste border
border use use apricot
apricot
tablespoon
tablespoon salt.salt. jam sprinkled
jam sprinkled with with chopped
chopped roasted
roasted almonds.
almonds.

7
ALCOHOL
ALCOHOL

ALCOHOL. ALCOOL
ALCOHOL. ALcooL - - Liquid
Liquid obtained
obtained by by distilling
distilling fer-
fer- mentco-ordination,
ment co-ordination, congestion
congestion of of the
theface,
face,overpowering
overpowering
mented liquors.
mented liquors. drowsiness; Third
drowsiness; Third degree: Lossof
degree.'Loss of mobility,
mobility, sensitiveness
sensitiveness
In chemistry,
ln chemistry, ail all organic
organic substances
substances composed
composed ofof carbon,
carbon, will.
and will.
and
hydrogen and
hydrogen and oxygen,
oxygen, capable
capable of of being
being combined
combined intointo an
an 2.2. Aeute
Acuteintoxication
intoxication -- Early
Earlysymptoms
symptoms the thesame
same as asinin
acid to
acid to form
form an an ether,
ether, are defined as
are defined alcohol. We
as alcohol. We shall
shall deal
deal inebriety, but
inebriety, but the period of
the period ofexcitation
excitation isisvery
veryshort,
short, resulting
resulting
only with
only with ethyl ethyl alcohol
alcohol or or wine
wine alcohol,
alcohol, also
alsocalled
called wine
wine quickly ininsomnolence,
quickly somnolence, whichwhich cancan develop into aacoma
developinto coma andand
spirit. ItIt isis the
spirit. principal product
the principal product ofof the fermentation of
the fermentation of sweet
sweet even death through
evendeath through cerebral
cerebral or pulmonarycongestion.
or pulmonary congestion.
liquids formed
liquids formed by double decomposition
the double
by the decomposition of ofglucose under
glucose under 3.3. Chronie
Chronic alcobolism
alcoholism -- Repeated abuseof
Repeated abuse of alcoholic
alcoholic
the action
the action of of yeast.
yeast. This
This microscopic
microscopic vegetable cell repro-
vegetable cell repro- liquids produces
liquids produces Jesions
lesions ofof the
the stomach (gastritis), of
stomach (gastritis), of the
the
duces itself by
duces itself by splitting
splitting glucose
glucose intointo carbonic acid and
carbonic acid and liver (cirrhosis), of
liver(cirrhosis), of the
the kidneys (nephritis), and
kidneys (nephritis), ofthe
and of nervous
the nervous
alcohol and
alcohol and aa few palatable and
few palatable and sweet-smelling by-products.
sweet-smelling by-products. (delirium, neuritis).
system (delirium,
system neuritis).
BEER, WINE.)
(See BEER,
(See WINE.)
AIfi -- English
ALE English beer, lightly hopped
beer, lightly hopped and and slightly bitter. ItIt isis
stightly bitter.
used in
used in cooking
cooking for for making
making various various cheese
cheese dishes, notably
dishes, notably
for Welsh
for rarebit (q.v.).
Welsh rarebit (q.v.).
Ale isis obtained
Ale obtained by by rapid
rapid fermentation
fermentation and and acquires
acquires
strength on
strength on maturing;
maturing; fermentedfermented small small beer, on the
beer, on the other
other
hand, has
hand, only aa short
has only life. Stout
short life. Stout and porter are
and porter are brewed
brewed from from
roasted grain;
roasted grain; aleale isis made
made from from grain
grain inin its
its natural
natural state.
state.
Microscopic cells
Microscopie inducing
cells inducing ItIt used
used to to be
be aa tradition
tradition in in wealthy
wealthy English
English families
families to to
alcoholic fermentation
alcoholic fermentation celebrate
celebra te the birth of
the birth of aa son
son by filling one
by filling one oror more
more barrels
barrels of of
ale, specially
ale, specially brewed
brewed for for thethe occasion.
occasion. The The barrels
barrels werewere
hermetically sealed
hermetically sealed and and not not opened
opened untiluntil the
the son and heir
son and heir
reached his
reached his majority.
majority. On On this
this memorable
memorable day day -- called
called thethe
'coming of
'coming age'-
of age' friends, tenants
- friends, tenants and and servants
servants were invited
were invited
to great repast,
to aa great which concluded
repast, which concluded with with thethe passing
passing round
round of of
the splendid
the splendid twenty-one-year-old
twenty-one-year-old ale. ale.
Ale posset
Ale Heat 1I litre
posset -- Heat (lf pints,
litre (I~ pints, generous quart) ale
generous quart) with
ale with
Alcohol isis produced
Alcohol produced by by fermenting
fermenting natural natural sweet juices
sweet juices little sugar,
aa little pinch ofpowdered
sugar, aq pinch of powdered gingerandginger and grated
grated nutmeg.
nutmeg.
(grapes, apples,
(grapes, apples, sugarsugar cane,
cane, beetroot,
beetroot, etc.) etc.) oror amyloide
amyloide Boil 1I litre
Boil (l| pints,
litre (l~ pints, generous
generous quart) quart) unskimmed milk milk andand
musts, which
musts, which havehave been
been su subjected
bjected to preliminary fermenta-
to preliminary mix it,
mix it, while
while still
still boiling,
boiling, with with thethe ale.
ale.
tion which
tion which transforms
transforms the the starch
starch into into glucose.
glucose. WortWort of of Toast and
Toast ale -- An
and ale An English
English beverage which which used
used to to bebe
cereals (beer), potatoes,
cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc. are
are used. served in
served in win
winter, after the
ter, after dinner, at
the dinner, at the
the same time as
same time as the
the
The distillation of
The distillation of these
these musts
musts andand worts producesproduces spirits cheese.
(q.v.); the
(q.v.); the concentration
concentration and and rectification
rectification of of these
these spirits Method. Bring
Method. Bring 1I litre (li (lf pints, generous quart) old old ale,
ale, toto
produces industrial alcohols.
produces industrial alcohols. which aa coffeespoon
which coffeespoon of ginger has has been added, to
been added, to the
the boil.
Absolute
Absolute 100 per cent
100 per alcohol is
cent alcohol is aa laboratory product; it is
laboratory product; Pour it,
Pour it, whilst
whilst almost
almost boiling,
boiling, into jug with
into aa jug with aa metal
metal lid lid
a caustic liquid,
a caustic liquid, which boils at
which boils 78.3'C. Because of
at 78·3°C. of its
its high containing a thick slice
containing slice of bread toasted on both sides. sides. Leave
water absorption
water potentiality it
absorption potentiality it must
must be be treated with with great the ale to to stand
stand for aa short time before serving.
caution.
caution.
Officinal (medicinal) 95'
Officinal (medicinal) 95° alcohol
alcohol is is aa colourless, mobile,
ALECTRYON -- A
ALECTRYON A large
large tree of which
tree of which the
the best-known
found in New Zealand.
species is found Zealand.
non-residual liquid,
non-residual volatile, with
liquid, volatile, with a pleasant odour
a pleasant odour and and a
Its red
red berries,
burning taste; itit boils
burning taste; boils at 79.9"C.It
at 79·9°C. It can be mixed with
be mixed water in
with water
Its much prized
berries, much for their
prized for their pleasant
pleasant acid
acid
all flavour, are usd
used in the manufacture
manufacture of refreshing beverages.
beverages.
ail proportions,
proportions, with contraction (that
with contraction (that is is to say, the
to say, the total An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).
volume
volume of the mixture
of the mixture is is lower
lower than that of of the components)
components)
and with
and emission of
with emission of heat.
heat. ALEMBIC.
ALEMBIC. ALAMBTc -
ALAMBIC - Apparatus used
Apparatus for distilling.
used for distilling. It
85' alcohol is
85° alcohol is commonly
commonly called called 'three-six'
'three-six' (trois-six)
(trois-six) comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or with-
comprises
because three parts
because three parts of of this
this alcohol,
alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal outaa bain-marue,
out bain-marie, surmounted bybyaa cap with
with a serpentine,
serpentine, i.e.,
quantity
quantity of of pure
pure water, produce six parts of
water, produce of ordinary eau- eau- a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil
coilleading
leading from it.
de-vie.
de-vie.
Alcohol possesses antiseptic
Alcohol possesses properties; it
antiseptic properties; it is a diffusible
diffusible
stimulant
stimulant whichwhich has has numerous
numerous uses uses in in therapeutics.
therapeutics.
In
ln its chemical composition
its chemical composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars
(l(1 molecule
molecule of glucose is
of glucose split, by
is split, fermentation, into
by fermentation, into 22
molecules of
molecules alcohol). It
of alcohol). It possesses
possesses definite but but moderate
moderate
alimentary properties,
alimentary because itit decomposes
properties, because decomposes too too quickly
quickly in
the organism,
the organism, and and thethe energy released can
energy released can only
only be used to
be used to aa
small degree, mainly
small degree, because itit becomes
mainly because becomes aa toxic toxic substance
substance
when taken in
when taken in large (see ALCOHOLISM).
doses (see
large doses ALCOHOLISM).
Old·fashioned alembic
Old-fashioned alembic
ALCOHOLISM. ALCOOLISME -- Intoxication
ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME Intoxication produced
produced byby
the abuse of
the abuse of liquids
liquids containing
containing alcohol.
alcohol. There
There are
are three
three
distinct
distinct forms:
forms:
l.1. Inebriety
Inebriety -- Occurring
Occurring whenwh en alcohol reaches aa certain
alcohol reaches certain
degree, variable
degree, variable with
with individuals,
individuals, manifesting itself in
manifesting itself in the
the
following
following manner:
manner: First Sensation of
degree: Sensation
First degree.. of well-being,
well-being,
stimulation
stimulation of the intellectual
of the intellectual faculties
facuIties and the imagination,
and the imagination,
slight swelling of
slight swelling of the
the face;
face; Second degree: Mental
Second degree: Mental in- in-
coherence, diminution
coherence, diminution of of muscular strength, lack
muscular strength, lack of
of move-
move-

8
 ALGERIA
ALGERIA
species-of
chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various
Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in
The liquid to be distilled is put directly into the boiler (in chopped.are
iurniiuti" This makes
used as a them
base easier
in the to use. Various
manufacture of kombu'
the caseofofa ilnaked-flame
thqcase topofofthe,bain'
alembic),ororonontop
naked-flamealembic), the hain- laminaria
it thenare used asvegetable
a base infor thesoup or mixed with rice
manufacture
The ;hi;h used as a
that formspart
mariethatforms
marie it.il.The
partofof Thealembic thenheated'
alembicis isthen heated. The which is then used as a vegetable for wiili rice
for example'
or mixed
pass into seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten
actionofof
a"tioo the heat relcasesalcoholic
theheatieleases vapours.These
alcoholicvapours' These pass into seasoned with soy sauce. Olher
are used inpdtisserie and confectionery'
for example,
the serpentine(*tti"tt
il;;.t,tn. (whichisÎscooledcooledby flowingwater)'
byflowing
and
water), and are interest
Butused în pâtisserie and \"VJlU'-·"'''Vlll..'
algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and
wastota heat the
heat the
condense.The Thetiaditional methodwas
Charentemethod
traditionalCharente But algae areconfine-d
not simply to aFar
culinary expedient,
countries; in the
andinterest
"ond.rrr..
alembicsdirectly over
alembics woodfires.
overwood Thefirst
fires.The liquidobtained'
firs!liquid obtained,
in1t.*"i,
in themofis the
not
not experts,
confinedthey to Far
Eastern
Eastern acountries;
valuable in food the
through opinioo constitute
le /ebrouillis
brouil/is-rn.rik
- hadtotobeheredistilled
- -hud passingit it through
redistilledbybypassing opinion of the experts, they constitute a valuable food
resource for the future.
the oncemore.
alembiconce
thealembic more. ii
resouree
ir in for
thisthe
way future.
that chlorella, microscopic freshwater
in the
AAnumber improvementshave
numberofofimprovements beenincorporated-
havcbeen incorporated in the ft which,
is in lhis wayfavourable
undei that ch/orella, microscopie
conditions, reproduce them-
rreshwaler
aljae
oh-fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe
old-fashioned alembic to enable alcohol to he oblained at the which, under favourable
rapidity, mayconditions, save our planet
one day reproduce them-
of the r.iu.t *ittt astonishing
nrtt and to
first attempt, and to ensure continuous feeding
ensure continuous feeding of the with astonisrung
E. and A. N".g.te have good reason to write:
save our planet
"tt.-pt, itorn fu*ioe.
apparatus.
.apparatus. :L;;;;;;laifeeding
from famine. E. and A.of liboratory animals has to
reason proved
write:
Traditionalists however, that
insist, however,
Tradîtionaiisisinsist, theseimprovements
thatthese 'Experimental
any doubt feedîng
thJ food of and energy animaIs
value of has proved
chlorellae.
GVirO
tt"""
have onfy
only increased the 'boiler
increased the 'boiler taste' and yield inferior
taste' and inferior beyond any doubt the food and are rich in proteinic, lipic and
value of chlorellae.
re~iUlts.
results.
iii""pp"r.nt
It is
that chlorellae
that chlorellae areacceleraled cultivation will and
as distil- vitaminised substances, and that
industry, more
InIn industry, morecomplicated apparatus, such
complicated apparatus, such as distil- vlt:amml:sed
provide man substances.,
with an and that
important-nutritional supplement' It is
will
ling
lingtowers with rectifiers,
towerswith areused'
etc., are
rectifiers,etc., used. provide man with an important nutritional with that
supplement. H is
;;i ; qr;iion of replacing traditional cultivation
not a question
;i;G;, but the of replacing
lattir maylome Iraditional in the exploitation
in usefuleultivation with that
ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive
ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in water. The nutritive but theinlaarid
tter may usefuJ in the exploitation
come in zones''
or semi-arid
of so-lar'energy
generally been
has generally
m919
n"tu. of algae isis indubitable,
value of and has
indubitable, and been more This meani that the underprivileged peoples of thc
energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' globe
;;G".ly proved proved than that of
than that fungi. During
of fungi'
the 1914
During the 1914 Trusreceive
means their
that the underprivileged
quota and trace
of vitamins peoples of elements
the globe
wu, these
war, theS<.: ptants were were usedused as fodder for
as fodder for horses'
horses. "o"n
could receive their quota of vitamins and trace elements
which at present they entirely lack'
Recent iesearch
Recent research has confirmed the
has confirmed the dietetic
value of
dietetic value of which at present they entirely Jack.
atgae- As As far far as feeding human-beings is
as feeding human heings is concerned, it scems concerned' it seems
North use ALGERIA.lrcfnn_Algeriaisanessentiallyagricultural
certain small
ih"at certain small pririitive
primitive tribestribes in the extreme
in the extreme North use ALGER lA.
t*n,r', ALGÉRŒ
i.p.cially - Aigeria
in the is anwhere
iell region essentially cultivation
cerealagrîeultural
when food food is
scarce'
algae as
algae nourishment when
emergency nourishment.
as emergency is scarce. country, especially in the Tell region where cereal
oredominates. Pasture lands extind to the high
plains' while
eultivation
S&"tat varietiei of algae are eaten in Scotland' forhîgh
--tlg;.
Several varietÎes or algae are eaten in Scotland. irr"-rnou"tuinsPasture and land landsunsuitable
ex tend to the agriculture
plains, while are
East and
are used
are esteemed in
are highly es-teemed the Far
in the Far East and are used mountains
with and
forest. It land
is a unsuitable
country, for
therefore, agriculture
of considerable are
as a Sasis for a large number numher of of widely marketed foodstuffs'
widely marketed foodstuffs. covered wi th forest. 1t îs a country, therefore, of considera
resources. In ancient times it was one of Rome's
"ont..O granaries' ble
it
It is from ce.tain
is from laminaria species
certain laminaria (sea tangle) that the -
resources. In barley' oats'
species (sea
kombus, for
tangle) that the
are several Atgeria hasancient every timesform ilofwas one of
cereal: Rome's
wheat,
;;;;
Japanese d.il* kombu, or
kombu, or kombu.s, there are
for there se veral Algeria
-uirE,
has etc. \theat
.iff"t, formis of wheat, for the manu-
cereal: valued
especially oats,
-
seiweed-based dishes so
SC2IW(:eO-o;asc:Q called'
so calle<!. maize, millet, etc. is products, valued
since it
for produces
the manu- a
in vinegar
vinegar for hours until1hl'.r"""nh
for hours until thoroughly i;;tut; of of pasta and semolina
The algae are soaked in facture
p".tt *fti.tt, pastawhileandswelling
semolina in products,
the process of cooking'
since it does
in the air' The
open air.
the open The skin skin of of 1the leaves is
saturatei and
saturated, and dried in he leaves pastalose
not
whieh, while swellîng in the process of
its shaPe.
itren strredaed off, using a sharp knife, and the white under' ---ine
then shredded off, a sharp knife, and the white under-
crushed into
and crushed into a
not loseatgerian
its shape. vineyards, work ofthc French colonists, are
fying pulp iltp scraped...."p"d. ThiJpulp then.dried
is then The Aigerian vineyards, work are gradually
lying pulp Îs dried and a
situated riainly around Oian andof the French
Algiers' They colonists, are
ot eut into into small geometrical.shapes
small geometrical according to
io*?it, or
powder,
"ui
shapes according to
like anchovy
anchovy essence, essence'
situated mainly
Oi-ini.f,i"g in number. around Oran and of Mascara' are
The wines gradua!ly
Mostaganem
iequirements. A A condiment,
condiment, rather rather like diminisbing in number. The wines
and M6d6a are among the best known' Since the
time of the
u"iu.w popular with with thethe Japanese,
Japanese, is made from
is made fragments
from fragments and Médéa are among the besthave
known. V.D.Q.S.
very popular ri.n"r, administratio-n they beenSince
classifiedtime of the
ofof thisthis samesame pulp, boiled inin soy
pulp, boiled sauce'
soy sauce. French administration they of have been c!assified
high alcohol and have
content V.D.Q.S.
fish' vege-
with fish, vege- (q.v.). They are generally
The central
The central part pirt of of these algae Îsiscooked
these algae cooked with (q.v.). r.".pirflu"alities,
are generallywtrictr of high alcoho\
mate. and haveof
the providence
thelrcontent
tables and
tables andsoups soups to to enhance
enhance thcir flavour' AA beverage
tlieir flavour. beverage made made !l#
good a."t"rs-who specialise which in make the dessert grapes
themEarly of
ir"_ pulverised
from prf"".isid kombu kombu isisdrunk drunk like like tea. Kombu isisadded
rea. Kombu added to
to
iin.
wîne
blending.
specialise in blending. Barly
for rice' It is often cut into are exported in June.
stews^and
stews and used as a condiment
used as a condiment for rice. ft is often eut into are Plums,
exported in June. and almonds are other equally early
greengages
;;;;* unadried a.i"O by fire,and either consumed thus, oror
byaa tire, and either consumed thus' Plums, greengages fruits such
and
boilingwater.water' - fruits. Then theie areand almonds are
the specifically other equally
Algerian earlyas
aftersoakingsoakingititfor foraafew momentsininboiling
fewmoments fruits. Then there are the specifically
and figs' Algerian two are
The last fruits suchdried
as
varietyof
anothervariety
eatanother ofalgae,
algae'one which they
onewhich o.*nl.q tangerines, dates
TheJapanese
The Japanese eat they o.ranges, tangerines.,
uiia &pottdin dates andquantities'
considerable A large
figs. The last twoproportion
are dried
artificially. Arter After being washed, these are dried in A largeinproportion
the manu-
cultivate artificially. washed, these are dried in andoiitt"exported
irut g"t in and
considerable are used locally
tangerinesquantities.
".rtiGt"
thethesun,sun,Iightly rou'rt"d, crumbledinto
lightlyroasled, intosmall pieces' and used
smallpieces, and used of the oranges and tangerines are used locally in the manu-
facture of liqueurs.
flavoursoups andsauces.
sauces.
totoflavour souPsand
usedinin Japanis kantus, is kantus'.a
faclure farming produces excellent quality potatoes'
of liqueurs.
Vegetable
Anotheralgae
Another productortcn
algaeproduct oftenused a Vegetable producespeas'
farmingtomatoes, excellent
carrots, melons' wa!e-r-
& in form of white' shiny' half- beani artichokes,
sort oigi"" g"Utitt"
rottof glue or gelatine in the form of the shiny, half- beans, artichokes,
;;i;;t and aubergines tomatoes, peas, carrots,
(eggplints)' olives are cultivated water-in
;;;;.p"t.* shavlngsororfiakes. Kantusisisused
flakes'Kan/us used like tapioca for m'
""'''''1 ...'''' . . ''' shavings like tapioca for melons and
itt. tittot"t aubergines
regions and in aliw
(eggplants). Olives
higher are
regions to
cultivated
- up 900 in
preparing jellies,soups soupsand andsauces.
sauces'. the littoral3000regions
re-eg in and in a fewRefineries
altitude. higher regions
situated- upon 900 spot
to the m.
'^irg"""iidietetics dietetics^_ Dieticianshave
- Dîelicians great
havegreat faith faithininthe the iover
(over 3000a feet) in altitude. Refineries
quality-oil, situated fruity'
easy-fl9wing, on thegolde.n'
long in- produce very good
value of algae. And,
nlllnl!''''''lll value of algae. And, in fact, man has long in-
in fact, man has of the
""tiiTioour of algae in his diet' The acoasts furnish all ihe'fish oiL easy-tlowing, fruit y,
and crustaceans
cludedcertain
cluded varieties
certainvarieties of algae in his diet. The coas(s as well as/rzdts. fish
de and
mer crustaceans
very similar to
of the
those
whowere werethe thefirstfirsttotorecognise
recognise the Mediterranean,
ft Itwas wasthe theJapanese
Japanesewho the Mediterranean,
found on the coast as weil asfruits de mer very similar to those
ofProvence'
Oielticvalue uatueofoialgae algaeand andtatoexploit
exploitthem systemltic-ally'
themsystematically. -
dietetic found on the
iuig. ft"rdscoastof of Provence.
livestock feed on the pasture lands of the
Red iea atga"ofofthetheporphyry porphyry genuslre are cultivated
in
cultivatedin the bays the bays
Large herds ofare
livestock landsasofcattle,
of algae beds have interiolr. There about feed on the
ten times as pasture
many sheep the
of i"r.-v"and Hiroshima. and Hirostrimi. thousands of beds have There arewhy
interior. explains about teo times
are soasmany
many more as cattle,for
sheep recipes.
"i ocean'1 to I to2 2m.m' (ltoto2 yards)2 vards) *tti.ft there
sprung up ono"the
;t;;;G trt"edge
edge ofofthetheocean, which there are so Algerian
ndigenous more recipes
animals' suchforas
below ti,.
Gro*-the surface. surface.-Cultivation presents
cultivationpresents no particular no particular -utton than for beif.Indigenous animais, such a gastro-
as
continuesright throughthet-he
rightthrough y"at' camels and gazelles' appear on the menu more as
proUf"rnand
problem and thethe harvestcontinues
harvest year. appear on the menu more as a gastro-
nomical curiosity than inyttring else, and are treated
in an
The The Japanese consume algae
Japanese consume algae in a wide variety of9f in a wide variety wayl.in
ways: in
preparationofof various dishes' The exceptional manner. anything else, and are treated in an
-
soups, in salads, in in
r"6;,ln-tui"at, thethe preparation various dishes. The exceptional manner.
AE;;;. cooking is not so very different from that of
on""slicedtii""O tttinty, over
hardenedover a tierce heat, a fierce heat' and
algae areu.. often thinly, hardened and Algerian cooking is not 50 very different from that of
"ifr"
9
 ALGERIA
ALGERIA
Tunisia and Morocco. All three come under the
heading of the walls, windows and doors of Moslem houses,
Arab cuisine.
Tunisia and Morocco. Ali three come under the heading of the walls, windows and doors of Moslem hou ses, is aissymbol a symbol
abound: absinth, verbena, basil, citron, gum
of power and has an historical significance.
ArabSpicescuisine. resin, of power and has an historical significance.
Moses, having changed his rod into a serp€nt, showed
mint, abound:pimentos,
Spicessesame, absinth, verbena,
etc. Dishes basil,
arecitron,
flavouiJ gum *itf,resin,,r, ,Moses, having cbanged his rod into a serpent, showed hishis
el-hanout,
mint, sesame, a blend
pimentos, etc. Dishes are
of-twenty-seven flavoured
different spices insepar-with ras hand114^tl Pharaoh,as as
to Pharaoh, if if
to to bear
bear witness
witness to to
hishis po*.r.-fn.
power. Tbe
ably linked faithful th's adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses
el-hanoul, with the
a blend of twenty-seven
feast oi Atd-et-Kibir. different spices insepar- faithful thus adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses as as a a
protection from the evil eye.
ablyArab Iinked with the
cuisine or 6tent of Aid-el-Kébir.
feastcookery'. cursrNE ARABE _ This type protection from the evil
of foodcuisine A y1ry rigid period of fasting, thethe Ramadan, prescribed
Arab is simple or 'tent
and cookery'.
healthyj the CUlSINE
milk,ARABE - This
oit, semotioa, .iJi .-A
ror
of Ramadan,
a,, Mosrems during alr daylight hours of the.n^ti..
is is
pre:scrlbf:d
ofd?r:1
food isvegetables,
simple andhealthy;pasta products, the milk, oil, semolina,
condiments and meats hours of the month
month
go of Ramadan, which is the ninth-month of the fvfonammeOan
wrucn
dates, vegetables, lnto its composition
pasta products, are condiments
all excellent and and produce
meats month of the Mohammedan
year.
easilygo
which digestible
into its composition
dishes. are ail excellent and produce year.
The word Ramadan comes from a verb meaning
easily The method dishes.
digestible of slaughter.used by the Arabs, consisting of The word Ramadan cornes from a verb meaning totorain, rain,
because it itwashes
because washes away the sins of the flesh and .t.""nr",
seygringthe
The methodneck, of slaughter
the.windpipe used by the th. Arabs, jugutar;;;r;;
two consisting of away the sins of the flesh and cleanses thelt.
heartofofitsits.rn.nllf·,tll'<;:
impurities.
without the
severing h-ftingneck,thetheknife offuntil
windpipe and"nd the two ii cimprete,-is
severance heart
particularly
without liftingtothe knife off until severance
The period of fasting was laid down by Mohammed,
_The
be recommended.
during
The Arabs
n,ol1"t,,.,,I!1lrlv to eat
be recommended.
only the flesh of animals; the blood is for_ during thesecond secondyear year oithe Hegira, to sanciify by,;Eious
observance the memory of what-happened
bidden. Theeat Koran lays the flesh
downofwhich animais; foods the the
blood e*U, is for- observance the
when
toit. fi;f;;
permitted
bidden. Theto Koran down which foodsanimals,
the Arabs are "* when heheate atethethe forbiddenfruit. fruit. Ad'am, banished fro. tfr"
poultry andto alleat.
pennitted
eat.
_This includes
includes
aquatic
ail"iithe
il; Garden of Fden, cried bitterly, but his iepentance
birds, except birds aquatic
of prey_animais,day or nocturnal Garden of Eden, cried bitterly, but his repentance was wasnot not
- all livestock
poultry and ail birds, animals,except birds o""n,
cimels, of prey,h".p,'"t..,-*iin-t-fr"
- day or nocturnal lccgltedbybyGod
accepted GoduntÏl untilthirty
thirtydaysdaysal'after
ter hisiri,fall, *h;;rusil;
fall,when
- exception
body had been cleansed of the impurities with
ail livestock of pig animais,
and wild camels,
boar. oxen, sheep, etc., with the body had been c1eansed of the impurities with wruch whichhis his
disobedienoe had tainted him, and posterity
exception
The lawgiver
.ingThe of pig advises
and wildhisboar. faithfur: 'Do not eat in a crouch- disobedience had tainted him, and posterity was wasthusthuscon-
con.
demned totoa aconsecutive
demned consecutive fast fastofofthirty
thiriy daysa ayear. year.
or lawgiver
huddled advises position, hisas faithful:
this position'Do not eat in a crouch-
inclines on. to .ut During themonth
too or
ing huddled
much, but sit at the table as thisin position
Juch a manner inclinesasone to eat
to appear ^ the monthofofRamadan Ramadanthe the-Moslems must mustabstain
abstain
always
too much, but to get at the table in su ch a manner as to appear from
l'rom food, drinkand
drink andtobacco
tobaccol'rom fromsunrisesunrisetotosunset.
sunset.
ready up.,
alwaysArabs ready to get up.'
generally .In NorthAfrica,
In North Africa,where yhergIslam Islam isisthe predominatingreli-
thepredominating
drink only once, after a meal, when a gion, burst of artilery fire announces to the
reli_
communal
Arabs generally drink only
vessel (guerba), once, after a meal,
watei when a gion, aaburst of artillery fire announces to the faithful faithfu]thatth;t
containing spring o, _if{ Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing
communal
makes the round vessel (guerba), containing spring
of those participatiig in thewatermeal.
or milk, Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing thirty tfrirtydays
auy,a
single
the"
makes The the person round of thoseshourdparticipating in the intomeal. cannon
single cannon shot shot fired
firedeach each evening atatsunset sunset signaIs
signalsthe
drinking not bieathe the bowr end offasting for that day. "u"iing
The drinking
liquid; heshould must not breathe
remove it from into the bowl
ni, fip, end of fasting for that day.
::i9iTi"g.,he U"for. Ramadan ends ends withwith pantagruelian feasts, feasts,called
oegmrung to
co:nUllln:mg thebreathe
liquid; again.
be mustThen remove it from
he may his
resume before Ramadan called AAid-et-
ia-e/-
drinkine. Kibir, whichwhich somewhat
somewhat ."r".ibl, the
A
be~~mrurlg
cup of coffee to breathe and a pipe of Thentobaccohe Kébir, the Christian
Christian Christmas
Christmas
dinner. Moslems who cannot
cannot celebrate
meal of the coffee
true and Arab. a "i*"y" """.i"J.'l'rr". dinner. Moslems who
gather together in Moorish caf6s.
celebrate this this feast
feast atat home
home
of the true Arab.
Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable gather together in Moorish cafés.
companion Culingry specialities
9f tglu:l (they constitute the two great pt"urur.r'oi it
Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion Culinary specialities of of Nortb Africa _
North Africa-
of tobacco rt- is (they constitute Flour boiled
Adssida. Flour boiled in in water,
water, thenthen mixed
mixed withwith butter.
,{rab)' very rich in tonic substanr"r uno trt.irior.ofu..y
the two great pleasures the" Aâssida.
Basco-utou. Spanish
butter.
Arab). It is
beneficial in very
a countryrich inwhere
toniethe substances and therefore very BascoulOu. Spanish loaf loaf made
made of of egg yolks, flour
egg yolks, flour and
and
summer temperature varies orange blossoms.
blossoms.
beneficiaJ25'C.
between in a and 50"C. where(77"F.the summer
and 122.F.). temperature varies orange
between
The tea25°C. hour and is a ritual. There isand
Bissar. Drid beans cooked
Bissar. Dried beans cooked in water in water and and oil oil until
until they
they
mint tea, absinth and sage form aa sort
teaThe laced teawith
hourmarjoram,
is a ri tuaI. basil and is mint tea,
ambergri, form sort ofjelly; eaten eaten hot hot or
or cold.
1un uro_"ti. head
tea lacedserved
lnruslon with with ambergris basil balls
and ambergris
mounted in silver is the Bouzel/ouf
,,Bgulellou!..Sheep's he ad singed on aa brisk fire to remove remove
infusion served
ultimate refinement) ambergris balls mounted au
ail hatrs;
hairs; boiled,
boiled, then seasoned witb with oil, vinegar, salt,
oil, vinegar,
ultimate refinement). pepper
pepper and and garlic.
garlic.
Arabs drink no wine; the Koran forbids it.
Arabs
One drink
of the no wine;
authors of the thecommentaries
Koran forbids it.
to the Koran, Sidi Breyes beylicales.
.Bleyes beylicales. LittleLittle squares of of cooked semolina
semolina mixed
Dylaleddine,
One of the authors with pistachio
with pistachio nuts, nuts, walnutJ
walnuts and almonds.
thinks, ofhowever,
the commentariesthat thetoprophet the Koran, Sidi
*rrt almonds.
Dylaleddine,
wanted thinks, however,
to forbid excessive wine drinking, and that the Prophet simply Brik.Eggs
Brik. Eggs in in puffpastry
puff pastry fried fried in in oil.
oil.
that *in, i,
wanted toprovided
permitted forbid excessive
one doeswine not get arunk. and that wine is
drinking, Little reddi*-brgy
Cacao. Little
Cacao. reddish-brown lozenges lozenges made made fromfrom sugar,
sugar,
pennitted not .Eatdrunk. pistachio
pistachio nuts,nuts, almonds
almonds and and lemon
Another, provided oneone doessaid:
better, and drink, but with- lemon essence.
out Another,
excess, for
-going
going
Godone lovesbetter, and drink, but with- Chekchuka. A
Chekchuka. A dish made dish made of "i"o"".
sweet or
of sweet or strong
strong peppers,
peppers,
not him who commits excess., tomatoes,
outArrbexcess, for God loves
gastronomical not
customs _ him .When
who commits excess.'
the food is-s"rueO,,
tomatoes, baby baby marrows (zucchini) or
marrows _(zucchini) or auU"rglnir-ffi
aubergines (egg-
Arab gastronomieal customs
EJ SV.aut6,.'help yourself from around tfre - 'When the food is served,' plants),
plan ts),-cut cut in in pieces
pieces and fried in
and fried in olive
olive oitoil *ttiguiit
with garlic u?"0 and
:?f El eage ofifrl onion,
qrsn, Syauté,
teavrng the'help yourself
middle, as the fromblessing
around the edge of the onion, the the whole
wholeeithereithermixedmixed withwith beaten
beaten eggs,
eggs, or or not, and
not, and
the middle, as the blessing of heaven will
of heaven will cooked
descendleaving upon it.' cookedfor for aa few
few minutes
minuteson on aa slow
slow fire.fire.
descend upon it.' Cherb-a-bel-fnft. Green Greencorn corn soup.
soup.
of. hospitality. are rigorously observed by the
.,1|11-11*,..
The laws bo~;pitalit:y Djendjelem. A whitish, whitish, soft
rvroslems. lt a of stranger, by the soft_pastl, made made of ofsugar,
sugar, ginger,
ginger,
ready-made. -
be he we]l or poorly dressed, upp"urc
atMoslems. If a stranger, or of starch and andaapinch pepper.It isisbought
pinchofofpepper. boughtready--madi.
the entrane to a tent, or at the door a t ou*",'unO'urt,
forat the entrance the
hospitality, to a master
tent, or of at the
the door house,
household i_;;;;i;
asks Dolma. Highly
lolrya. Highly seasoned
seasoned mixturemixture oirice,of rice, chopped
chopped meat meat
for hospitality,
answers: 'Be welcome,, the master of the household immediately and
andonions. wrappedinincabbage
onionsyrapped cabbageleaves,leaves,covered
coveredwith withwater
water
and bids him enter, indicatinj
answers:
nla99 o1 the 'Becarpet
welcome,' or mat bids him enter, indicatinga a
and which and
andcooked
cookedininaacasserole
casserolewith-fire
with firebelowbelowand above.simii;;
andabove. Similar
covers the floor. Im_ totoTurkish
place on the carpet
mediately, the visit is treated aswhich or mat a festivecovers the tloor. Im- Turkishdolma.dolma.
occasion
guTtmediately,
is offered the avisit
cup isoftreated
coffee or as a festive occasionand andthe the Douara.
Douara.BoiledBoiledpluckpluckand andtripe
tripeseasoned
seasonedwith withcumincuminand and
tea and whatever
guesttoiseat.
ready offered a cup of coffee or tea and whateverthere thereisis sprces.
to eaL Guizada. AA kind kindofofscalloped
scallUIPOO little
liUlecookie
cookiemademadefrom from
_H_ospitality is the duty of every good Moslem. semolina
When a Moslem family offers of every good Moslem.
ybriro.rln semolinaand andeggs, baked in the oven. oven.
esselmenor
you sorne messe/men orsome Homse.Little balls of phste friod
Homse. andcoated
friedand coatedwith
withhoney.
honey.
y.baa1-el garroussa (cakes in thi fo.m oi tapering fingerssorne or Kabab.
sebaas-el
biscuits shapedaarroussalike small hands) in the fonn it is-; ,ig' tt-"t fingers or
of tapering Kabab. Mutton
Mutton cut cut into squares, braised braised ioin butter, f"tC
biscuits shaped like smaU hands) it is a sign thatt;;;;;
welcome. you are seasonedwith
seasoned withsalt
saltand
andpepper
pepperan-d served
servedliberally
liberally garnished g";iJ;;
welcome.
The pattern ofthe hand seen on the cakes,
with
withsliced
slicedonions
onionsandandparsley.
parsley.
on
The pattern of the hand seen on the cakes, onthethe tents.
tents,onon Kefta.Chopped
Kefta. Choppedand spicedmutton,
andspiced mutton,shaped
shapedintointorissoles
rissoles

l010
 ALIMENT
ALIMENT

and grilled
and grilled overover aa wood
wood fire.
fire. This ragoût is
This rago,fit is a country
country dish
dish called alicot rn
called alicot in dialect.
dialect. The
The
Khali'.
Khali'. Dried
Dried mutton cooked in
mutton cooked in oil and fat
oil and fat and th us pre-
and thus pre- etymological root
etymological root is retained in
is retained in all
aU its
its various forms: ali,
various forms: a/i,
served.
served. wings; cait,
wings; cuit, cooked.
LianL
Liani. LambLamb stew stew with chick peas,
with chick seasoned with
peas, seasoned with wild
wild
parsley.
parsley. ALIMENT-
ALIMENT - Derived
Derived from the Latin
from the word alere:to
Latin word alere: to nourish,
nourish,
Makrouda.
Makrouda. Pastry shlffed with
lozenges stuffed
Pastry lozenges with dates.
dates. to grow.
to cause to grow. The root alt
The Celtic root means nourishment.
ait means nourishment.
M'darbel.
M'darbel. Mixture Mixture of of fried
fried baby marrows (zucchini)
baby marrows (zucchini) and and word 'aliment'
The word
The indicates an
'aliment' indicates object, while
an object, while the
the word
word
little
!ittle pieces of beef fried
of beef fried in
in oil seasoned with
oil seasoned hot pimento
with hot pimento and and 'nourishment'
'nourishment' indicates indicates an an action,
action, although
although the the latter
latter is is often
aa dash ofvinegar.
of vinegar. employed as a synonym of 'aliment'. 'aliment'.
Mekechter. Chickenfricassée with
Mekechter. Chicken/ricassie with chick
chick peas.
peas. Any substance which upon entering the
Any substance the body is is capable of
Merga.
Merga. Strongly spiced stock
Strongly spiced made of
stock made of mutton'or
mutton'or chicken,
chicken, supplying itit with materials
supplying materials for for growth or or repair
repair and and with fuel
or both,
or both, which
which the Arabs drink
the Arabs drink only when itit isis very
only when very cold or or in for its energyenergy requirements is an aliment. aliment.
cases ofillness.
cases of illness. Simple aliments aliments are are those that the organism consumes consumes and
M'habia.
M'habia. Cake Cake mademade from
from milk, semolina, pistachio
milk, semolina, pistachio nuts,
nuts, hc,..... }.", without
absorbs ",;t!"... "t first submitting them them to modification;; water,
to modification
walnuts and
walnuts and pine nuts. nuts. which is
which is of considerable alimentary importance (see
of considerable (see
M'hamsa. Soup with
M'hamsa. pasta and tomatoes.
with pasta WATER),
WATER), and sea salt are about the only :ou substances in this
ILJ:>L,alllvC;:O in

Mokh.
Mokh. Sheep's brain and and tongue, seasoned with garlic, category.
cayenne pepper and wild parsley.
cayenne parsley. To study
To study the the aliments
aliments we we must must beginbegin by selecting the
Osbane. Forcemeat made
Osbane. made from from chopped
chopped sheep'ssheep's pluck genuinely alible alible elements
elements of of eacheach one one and proceed to
and
and meat, mixed mixed with rice, seasoned with red
rice, seasoned red pepper and examine them individually. Today we consider
examine elementary
consider as eleme:nUlry
spices. Used for stuffing stuffing sheep's intestines.
intestines. aliments, ternary substances (that (that is is substances of of carbon,
J'{II'Y1-lJer-lelrTGSS A stew made of
Rim-bel-terfa,rs. of gazelle meat and Saharan Saharan hydrogen
hyd rogen and oxygen). These ternary su substances
bstances are are always
truffles (Saharan dish).
trufres associated with with other mineraI mineral elements,elements, namely the the carbo-
Mixture of chopped mutton and onions seasoned
Sferia. Mixture seasoned hydrates, fats fats and and quaternary substances (also (also called
called nitro-zirro-
with
with salt,salt, pepper and and cumin. These These are are shaped into !iule little gmous substances
genous substances because because nitrogen nitrogen combinescombines witb with the
balls, dipped in egg and fried fried in butter.
butter. carbon, hydrogen and
carbon, oxygen). Quaternary substances are
and oxygen). are
Tadjin helou. Very delicate stew made of mutton or beef, proteids or proteins (formerly (formerly called called albuminoids).
albuminoids). To To these
veÉ~et,lbl(!s in
vegetables in season,
season, prunes or or raisins andand aa fewfew quinees.
quinces. three broad classes of aliments (simple, (simple, ternary and quater-
and quater-
This is covered
covered with pie pastry and and cooked in the oyen. oven. nary) we must add mineral substances
add minerai substances and and vitamins.
Terbia-bel-hebar.
Terbia-bel-hebar. Macidoine Macédoine of vegetables served with with aa Carbohydrates are represented by the starches starches and and sugars.
sugars.
roast bustard (!iule (little bustard or field duck). Apart from from small quantities present in
small quantities in sorne
some animalanimal tissues,tissues,
Tleitli. Macaroni
Macaroni garnished
garnished with chopped
chopped meat and baked these are ail all of of vegetable origin. The action of
The action of the
the digestive
eggs.
eggs. ferments transforms them into glucose
fennents glucose which which is is absorbed by by
Tomina. Coarse
Tomina. Coarse semolina
semolina cookedcooked in in anan earthenware the blood,
the blood, then then condensed
condensed by by the liver into
the liver into glycogen
glycogen or or
casserole and plunged into butter and and boiling honey. animal starch.
animal starch. This This is is broken down down Ettlelittle by little
little to to meet the the
Yubbo. Cake made from honey, olive oil, rose rose petaIs,
petals, requirements. The
body's requirements. The finalfinal stagestage of of this decomposition
this decomposition
ftour
flour and dandelions. yields water and and carbonic
carbonic acid. acid. In In certain illnesses the
certain illnesses the pro-
Other
Other specialities include lagni, much-valued palm milk;
lagni, much-valued cess of
cess decomposition isis arrested
of decomposition arrested and intermediary pn.)UUl,;lS
and intermediary products
leben,
leben, which is nothing but whey; whey ; and
and kéfir
k6fir made from cow's, cow's, (acids) which
form (acids)
fonn remain in
which remain in the blood. When
the blood. When the quantity of
the quantity of
goat's or
goat's or sbeep's
sheep's milk; chreyba, chreyba, rahatloucoum,
rahatloucoum, sahleb, sahleb, glucose circulating
glucose circulating in in the blood reaches
the blood reaches too too high aa level level as as aa
rogagues, messelmen,
messelmen, makroutes,
makroutes, stuffed
stufed dates,
dates, etc.
etc. result of
result of inadequate transformation, part
inadequate transformation, part of of ilit is eliminated
eliminated
And when we
And we addadd toto this list (in its
list tadjins (in its several forms),
several forms), in the
in the urineurine (which (which normally
normally does does not not concontain
tain any). any). Such Such isis
méchoui
michoui and and couscous
couscous with its its various accompaniments (see (see the case
the case in in diabetes.
diabetes.
COUSCOUS)
COUSCOUS) and and thethe delicacies
delicacies of of Tunisian and and Israeli
Israeli The body
The body can can transform carbohydrates into
transform carbohydrates into fats.fats. These
These
cuisine, we
cuisine, we realise
realise that African regional cookery
that African cookery need need not not two aliments
two aliments are therefore to
are therefore to an an extent interchangeable.
extent interchangeable.
fear comparison
fear comparison with with moremore sophisticated metropolitan The fats
The fats or fatty bodies
or fatty bodies are compounds of
esters: compounds
are esters: glycerine
of glyeerine
cusine.
cusine. fatty acids.
and fatty
and Alimentary fatty
acids. Alimentary fatty bodies
bodies are present in
are present in both
both
the animal
the animal and and vegetable kingdoms. The
vegetable kingdoms. The digestive
digestive ferments ferments
ALGfRIENNE (À
ALGÉRIENNE L') -- This
(A L') This isis the
the name
name ofof aa garnish,
garnish,
decompose the
decompose the fats, which which then then reconstitute
reconstitute themselvesthemselves to to
aplpl!c:able principally to
applicable nnnf',r.",II" to meaL
meat. It
It consists
consists ofsmall
of small tomatoes
tomatoes
form organic fats.
form fats. The fat fat isis ththen laid dOWll
en laid down in in the
the tissues
tissues and and
braiSed in oil acc;onlpamHX1
accompanied by by sweet potato croquettes,
sweet potato or
croquettes, or
in the cellular tissue, utilised by
and isis utilised by the body
the body
especially in
\.<"k-''''''''''Y the cellular tissue, and
sweet potatoes cooked in in butter.
butter.
according to
according to its
its needs.
needs. When When the fat thus
the fat laid in'
thus laid idreserve
reserve isis not not
ALICA
ALICA -- A A sort
sort of
of porridge ofof which
which the
the Romans
Romans were were very used
used in in sufficient
sufficient quantityquantity by by the body, itit accumula
the body, accumulates tes in in the
the
fond. It
fond. It was
wils prepared with spelt (hard or
spelt (hard or durum
durum wheat,
wheat, what organs and and tissues
tissues and and results
results in in obesity.
obesity.
today
today isis knownknown as as German
German wheat)
wheat) mixed
mixed with
with aa sort
sort of
of clay
clay Fats may be partially replaced inin the
be partially the diet diet by carbo- carbo-
(creta\ found
(creta) found between
between Pozzuoli
Pozzuoli and
and Naples
Naples on on the hill of
the hill of hydrates, but these
hydrates, these are not absolute equivalents
are not equivalents and the diet
the diet
Leucogee
Leucogee (Phny). (Pliny). AA drink
drink was
was also
also made
made fromfrom Alica.
Alica. of an
of an adultadult must contain aa minimum
must contain minimum of of 7070g.S. (21 QLoz.) fats
oz.) fats
ItIt isis said
said that
that Augustus
Augustus paid aa rentrent of
of 20,000
20,000 sesterces
sesterces toto daily. This
daily. This amountamount may may he decreased in
be decreased insummer
sr,rmmer but but itit must
must
the
the Neapolitans
Neapolitans for for the
the exclusive right toto this
this clay. (Creta in
clay. (Creta n never
never fall fall below
below 40 t oz.)
a0 g.g. (1(1* oz.) per perday,
day, of of which
which 25 25g.g.(l(l oz.)oz.)
Latin
Latin me ans both
means both 'clay'
'clay' and
and 'chalk'.) should
should be animal fat.
beanimal fat.
Although fat
Although fat forms normal part
forms aa normal part of of certain
certain organs, and
ALICANTE
ALICANTE WINE. WINE. ALICANTE
ALIcANTE (VIN o') -- AA very
(vtN D') very well-known
well-known although carbohydrates,
although carbohydrates, too, too, are constitutive elements of
are constitutive
dessert
dessert wine
wine from
from the
the Spanish province of
Spanish province of Alicante.
Alicante. This
This isis
certain tissues,
certain tissues, the principal function
theprincipal function ofthese of these two twoelements
elements isis
also the name
also the name given n the
given in the midi
midi of
of France
France to to aa variety
variety of
of red
red
toto provide
provide energy. energy. ItIt isis thanks thanks toto them them that that the the bodybody isis
grape
grape (known,
(known, too,
too, as
as Grenache).
Grenache). capable
capable of of physical
physical exertion
exertion and and of of maintaining
maintaining its its,,,,,,,,,,,",r,,_
tempera-
ALICUIT
ALICUIT (Languedoc
(Languedoc cookery)
cookery) -- Ragoût
Ragofrt of
of giblets (princip-
giblets (princip- ture. Theyare
ture. considered, therefore,
are considered, therefore, mainly as combustives,
as,",V'''U'''''Ll
ally
ally turkey gszzards and
turkey gizzards and wings)
wings) prepared
prepared as
as described
described inin the
the or as r"<: ..u ..'",t,,nf aliments,
respiratory aliments, since since itit isis through the oxygeninin
theoxygen
recipe
recipeforfor Turkey
Turkey giblets
giblets bonne-femme
bonne-femme (see
(see GIBLETS).
GIBLETS). the air thattbis this corn bustion isiseffected.
combustion effected.

ll
Il
ALIMENT
ALIMENT

Theoretically, fats
Theoretically, fats decompose
decompose into into carbonic
carbonic acid acid and and isis explained not only
explained not only byby the
the diversity of the
diversity of the methods
methods em-em-
water (Iike
water (like thethe carbohydrates);
carbohydrates); but but inin certain
certain illnesses
illnesses this this ployed, but
ployed, but also (in the
also (in animal) by
the animal) by the
the differences
differences arising
arising
decomposition stops
decomposition stops at at oneone of of several
several intermediate
intermediate stages stages from the
from the race,
race, feeding
feeding and
and cuts considered; in
cuts considered; in the
the vegetable.
vegetable,
and the
and the resulting
resulting excess exc€ss of of fatty
fatty acids found in
acids found in the
the blood
blood the variety,
the the soil
variety, the soil in which itit has
in which has been cultivated, the
been cultivated, the
constitutes one
constitutes one of of the factors of
the factors of acidosis.
acidosis. fertiliser used,
fertiliser used; the part analysed.
the part analysed.
The albuminoidsQtroteinic
The albuminoids (proteinic or quaternary substances)
or quaLernary substances\ con- con- M. R.
M. R. Berg
Berg has calculated the
has calculated the figures for cabbages
figures for cabbages inin the
the
tain carbon,
tain carbon, hydrogen,
hydrogen, oxygen oxygen as as their principal elements,
their principal elements, accompanying table.table.
and aa fourth
and fourth -- rutrogen.
nitrogen. Their Their chemical
chemical composition
composition isis CABBAGES GATHERED
CADDAGES GATHERED
extremely complex
extremely complex (see (see ALBUMINOIDS).
ALBUMINOIDS). Under Under the the March
in March
in in Decemba
in December
influenoe of
influence of digestive
digestive elements
elements they they are
are subjected
subjected to to aa series
series
of modifications
of modifications which which terminate
terminate in in the production of
the production of Oxide of
Oxide potassium
of potassium 0.5067
0·5067 0.6748
0·6748
albumins; these
albumins; these are
organism uses
The organism
are usedused in
uses the
in the constitution
the albuminoids
constitution of
albuminoids partly
of our
our tissues.
partly as
tissues.
as energy
energy
of sodium
Oxide of sodium 0.0330
0·0330 0·0640
0.0640
The
factors, but
factors, principally to
but principally to aid growth and
aid growth and in in the
the reparation lime
Oxide of lime 0.1730
0·1730 0.1596
0·1596
of our
of our tissues.
tissues.
Unlike carbohydrates
carbohydrates and fats, albuminoids do
fats, albuminoids do not under-
Oxide of iron
of iron 0.22t6
0·2216 0.2870
0·2870
Unlike
go total
go total deeomposition;
decomposition; in in eight casescases out of of ten
ten this stops at at anhydride
Phosphoric anhydride 0.5833
0·5833 0.0287
0·0287
theurea
the stage, the remainder being eliminated in the
urea stage, form of
the form of Sulphuric anhydride 0.5833
0·5833 0·2569
0.2569
various nitrogenous
various nitrogenous substances, sorne of which have still
some ofwhich still not
not
determined.
been determined.
been Chlorine 0.6550
0·6550 0.4445
0·4445
Deficiencies of
Deficiencies of the liver (the
the liver (the great
great transformer
transformer of nitro- nitro- offresh
cent of
Per cent fresh substances
substances
genous substances) or
genous or ofof the kidnep (the
the kidneys (the great
great eliminators
eliminators
of the
of the same) cause proteins, or
cause proteins, or their products of disintegra-
their products Figures vary according to whether analysis is is made of the
tion, to accumulate
tion, accumulate in in the blood and a serious disorder called called exterior leavcs, the interior leaves
leaves, the or the
leaves or the buds
buds of the
the vege-
vege-
azotaemia results
azotaemio results (of (of which
which uraemia is is aa modification).
modification). ln In table. Basic
Basic elements predominate in in the exterior,
exterior, whereas
other instances,
other instances, the the urine is found found to to contain
contain substances itit interior leaves and, in particular, the
the interior the buds, are distinctly
ougbt not
ought not tato contain
contain such such as as aminic acids or even albumins acid.
(ahuminuria'1.
(albuminuria). Cooking procedures modify the ratio and
the ratio and proportion of
The albuminoid group
The albuminoid group alsa comprises closely related
also comprises related sub- mineral salts primarily by dissolving the alkaline elements,
minerai
stances known known as as proteidae
proteidae which which are are albumins combined sa if aa piece
that if
so that of beef in
pieoe of which the
in which acid elements
the acid elements pre-
with carbohydrate to
with aa carbohydrate form aa paranucleine
to fOTm paranuc/eine (paranucleo-
Qtaranucleo- dominate is boiled an an alkaline
alkaline stock can
can be obtained.
proteides).
proteides). effect of
The elTeet cooking is even more
of cooking more marked with vegetables.
Finally, classod as
Finally, classed 'albuminoids' are
as 'albuminoids' non-proteic nitro-
are non-proteic nitro- Blanching (prerequisite in in the manufacture of tinned food)
genous substances
genous substances like gelatine, keratin,
like ge1atine, keratin, etc. reduces the mineral
minerai content of vegetables and destroys
destroys the
Minerals,too,
Minerais, too, are are indispensable
indispensable elements of of our alimenta- minerals. Prolonged boiling has an even more damag-
basic mineraIs.
tion. Sodium chloride
tion. Sodium chloride (sea (sea salt)
salt) is is the only minerai
mineral used alone ing effect. The effects
iog elTect. effecls of other methods of cooking are less
cook.ing are Jess
in its natural
in its natural state; state; the the others oceur occur as elements of
as elements of various
various sine thejuices
drastic since the juices released by the
the vegetable
vegetable are usually
usually
compounds
compounds (probably (probably the only form
the only fonn in which they
in which they are consumed with it.
consumed iL
assimilable) combined with
assimilable) albuminoids, carbohydrates
with the albuminoids, carbohydrates
TOTAL MINERAL
TOTAL LOSS DURING
MINERAL TOSS IN:
COOKING /N:
DUR/NG COOK/NG
fats of
and fats
and of ourour natural
natural foods.
We know
We know the tbe approximate
approximate needs needs of of the organism
organism as as regards
regards Water
Water Oil Fat
Fat Butter
Butter
certain
certain chemical substances that
chemical substances tbat areare eliminated
eliminated daily daily in cent
per cent per cent
cent per cent
cent per cent
cenl
ponderable
ponderable quantities. excreta, for
The excreLa, example, remove
from
from the the body
quantities. The
body each day on average average 7 g.
for example,
g. soda,
soda, 4· 75 g.
4-75 g. potas-
Carrots
Carrots 49.95
49·95 30.59
30·59 20·91
20.91 19·65
19.65
sium,
sium, 1.25 1·25 g. g. calcium,
calcium, 1.63 1·63 g.g. phosphorus,
phosphorus, 0.5 0·5 g.g. magnesia,
magnesia, Potatoes
Potatoes 66·74
66.74 31.33
31·33 52'38
52·38 42.85
42·85
0·05 g.
0.05 g. iron,
Iron, 0.05 0-05 g.g. sulphur,
sulphur, as as well
weil asas a quantity of
a small quantity of
chloride
chloride and traces of
and traces manganese, bromine,
of manganese, bromine, iodine, silica
Onions
Onions 66'67
66·67 47.25
47·25 60 53.M
53·44
and
and fluorine.
fluorine. Other Other elements
elements enter enter intointo alimentation
alimentation in LOSS OF POTASSIUM SALTS
Imponderable quantity,
imponderable quantity, which which does does not not meanmean to say that
to say
their
their r6le
rôle is is insignificant;
insignificant; in in fact
fact there is is a probability
probability that
Carrots
Carrots 52.05
52·05 23·97
23.97 14·38
14.38 22·60
22.60
we
we maymay findnnd amongamong these these imponderables
împonderables an explanation expia na Lion for for Potatoes
Potatoes 57.61
57·61 20-46
20-46 l.5l
l11·51 tt.97
11·97
the part
the vitamins play
part vitamins play in in the diel. For
the diet. For example,
example, recent recent
research
research has revealed that
has revealed that vitamins
vitamins act as coenzymes (or
as coenzymes (or
Onions
Onions 66'67
66·67 13.33
13·33 19.16
19·16 26.67
26·67
codiastases)
codiastases) and and areare therefore
therefore involvedinvolved in degradation or
the degradation
in the or Sorne experiments have
Some shown how
have shown the total
how the loss of
total loss
resynthesis of
resynthesis the various
of the various nutriments.
nutriments. minerais and
minerals and potassium salts varies according
aceording to 10 different
dilTerent
Remineralisation
Remineralisation experiments have been carried out with
been carried witb cooking procedures.
cooking procedures.
animais. That
animals. That is is to say, the
to say, the principal
principal minerals
minerais have have beenbeen Artificial
Artificial aliments -
aUments - Natural foods that that have been pre-
have been
removed from
removed from theirtheir alimentation
alimentation and replaced replaced by complex complex pared industrially
pared industrially are not not included heading (they
under this heading
included under
mineral
minerai mixtures.
mixtures. These experiments invariably
These experiments invariably failed when will
will be dealt withwith later).
later). Here
Here wewe are referring to aliments
aliments
chemically pure
chemically pure salts
salts werewere used;used; positive
positive resultsresults were ob- ob· that
that have treated in order to make them
been chemically treated
have been
tained
tained using less-well-purified salts, which
using less-well-purified which shows the the im- more digestible
more digestible oror more easily assimilated:
more easily assimilated: there many of
are many
there are
portant
portant r6le impurities (i.e.,
rôle impurities (i.e., the the imponderable
im ponderable traces traces of of them. Among
them. Among the the nitrogenous substances are
rutrogenous substances are purified
purified
certain elements) play
certain elements) play in in the
tbe diet. albumins,
albumins, legumin, albumoses and
legumin, albumoses peptones. All
and peptones. these pro-
AU these pro-
Most
Most of of the chemists who
the chemists who havehave analysed
analysed the the aliments
aliments have have ducts can
can bebe prescribed therapeutically but
prescribed therapeutically their prolonged
but their prolonged
determined
detcrmined their their total
total mineralisation
mineralisation by by reducing
reducing them them to to the
the use inevitably
use leads to
inevi ta bly leads to disorders;
disorders; they
they have
have never
ne ver succeeded
succeeded
form
form of ash. This
of ash. This callscalls forfor complicated
complicated calculations
calcuJations and and in supplementing natural
in supplementing foods in
natural foods the adult diet.
in the diet. As
As far as
as
gives far
gives far from
from accurate
accurate results results when when the the final
final figure
figure is i5 children
children are co ncerned , modified
are concerned, modified artificial
artificial foods
foods are those
are those
applied
applied to fresh foods,
to fresh foods, such such as as those
those we consume daily.
we consume daily. This
This most
most frequently used, dextrined
frequently used, dextrined and
and malted
malted flours,
flours, etc.
etc.

l2
12
 ALIMENT

Chemical aliments - We - We mustmust not forget that

not forget even if
that even if 6.
6. Beverages:
Beverages:
albuminoids, carbohydrates and fatty
albuminoids, carbohydrates fany bodies are elements
elements of (a) water
our alimentation,
alimentation, theythey areare not
not aliments. Aliments have have a (b) fruit juices
juices
traditional form
traditional form and and areare borrowed
borrowed (apart from a
(apart from a few (c)
(c) alcoholic
alcoholic drinks
mineraIs) from the animal or vegetable kingdoms; the three
minerals) three (d) aromatic drinks.
aromatic
elements listed
elements are merely constituents of aliments
listed are aliments (along Weight aliments - Normally
ofaUments
Weigbt of stomach is more sensi-
NormaUy the stomach
with a
with few indigestible
a few indigestible substances such such asas cellulose). The tive to
tive to the aliments than to
weight of aliments
the weight to their
their volume.
volume. The
presence ofof cell besides providing bulk has been
ulose besides
cellulose been proved weight of the
weight the total diet (beverages excluded) ranges
total diet rauges from
after research to
after exhaustive research ta be indispensable in
be indispensable in the
the ac- 1500 to
1500 to 1800 g. for
1800 g. for a man, aa little
a man, less for
Iittle less for a
a woman; the
complishment of
complishment of digestive phenomena.
phenomena. weight becomes excessive above 2500 g.
excessive above
Complete -
aliment - An
Complete aliment An aliment
aliment that contains, or
that contains, or is weight of a
The average weight
The a meal must not
meal must not exceed 800
800 to
reputed to contain, alimentary substances in the
containn the various alimentary 1000 g. for a man and 600 to 800 g. for a woman. Generally
Generally
proportions. Milk
right proportions.
right Milk is is the only practically complete
the only a feeling of saliety
satiety occurs these limits are reached.
occurs before these reached.
food (as far as babies are concerned) and even it is deficient
in Vitamin C. MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF ANIMAL FOODS
MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FOODS
Economy aliments -- Sorne
&onomy aliments Some of the the substances we occasion-
ally describe in this way have, like Iike cocoa and chocolate, real 100 G.
100 G. MEAT (net weight) can be
wcight) can be replaced source of
as aa source
replaced as
food value;
food value; others, suchsuch as coffee, coca-cola, only act
tea, coffee,
as tea, act protein by:
through the nervous excitation
excitation they provoke. 100 g.g. olfal
offal or variety meats
It is arguable whether or not the ingestion of these these sub- 100 g. fish (net weight)
stances can increase the energy output
stances output ofa diet, but they can, 2-t eggs
2|
conditions, calm or falsely appease,
under certain conditions, appease, the sensa- It litre milk or the equivalent in milk derivatives (see table
tion of hunger and and impart a feeling of well-being. below)
Nutritive value of certain elements -- Bearing in
Nuhitive in mind the
importance of
importance of the
the various
various elements
elements in in the
the normal
normal diet MUTUAL
MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF DAIRY
S(]BSTITUTION OF DAIRY FOODS
(albumins, carbohydrates, fats, etc.) an aliment will be more MILK can be replaced
!* LITRE MILK replaced by:
nourishing the
nourishing the more fatty
fa Ity bod
bodiesies it contains, for these are 120 g. unsweetened concentrated milk
riches t, volume for volume, in calories.
richest, calories. 80 g. sweetened concentrated milk
The mutual
mu tuaI substitution tables tables of various groups of ali- 30 g. powdered milk
ments (see below) give sorne some indication of the relative values 125 g. curdled milk (cream cheese)
of certain aliments of
of of animal and vegetable
vegetable origin. We Wc have 2 small cartons yoghurlyoghurt (about 250 g.)
Randoin, MM. Legallic, Causerets and
to thank Mme. Lucie Randoin, 4 petits szisses (about
petjf5 .slli.sses (about 120 g.)
G. Duchêoe
G. Duch€ne for them. 1I demisel
demi-sel (about 60 g.)
Meat, milk, butter and
Meat, milk, and bread have been taken
have been taken asas basic 40-50
40-50 g. fermented Camembert,
fermented soft cheese (Brie, Camembert,
elements in
clements in these substitution tables.
these substitution The compilers
tables. The compilers have Coulommier s, Livarot, Munster, etc.)
Coulommiers, etc.)
then calculated the
then caJculated quantities of
the quantities of other
other aliments
aliments (c1osely
(closely
30--40
30-40 g. (Gruyire, Dwch
g. fermented hard cheeses (Gruyère, Dutch cheese,
related in nutritive value) required to replace aa given given w!::ight
weight S aint - P aulin, Cantal, etc.)
Saint-Paulin, etc.)
of each
each of these basic elements. Gruyire cream
g. Gruyère
60 g. cream cheese
In establishing these quantities, they they have naturally taken g. goat
25 g. goat cheese
into account
aceount that the aliments mentioned in in each group are
precisely the
not of precisely the same
same composition and'may ev
composition andmay differ
en ditfer
even MUTUAL
MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF FARINACEOUS
SUBSTITUTION OF FARINACEOUS
profoundly on points. We
on certain points. We cancan nevertheless see see the
FOODS
FOODS
advantage
advantage of comparing
comparing aliments which, which, practically speak-
ing, are interchangeable. If the
jng, are alimentation is
the alimentation is sufficiently G. BREAD
100 G. BREAD can be replaced as aa source
can be of calories by:
varied the
varied the organism can only benellt
can only from their
benefit from their different 70 g. cereal flour
nutritional values.
nutritional 70 g. rusks or dry sponge fingers
alimenb -- Nothing is
Volume of aliments variable than
is more variable than the g. biscuits
50 g.
capacity of
capacity of that
that elastic the stomach;
organ the
elastic organ stomach; although g. gingerbread
80 g.
cm.3 is the recognised average capacity, this may fall to
1200 cm.) 70 g. porridge
porridge oats
600 cm]
cm.3 or rise to 2000 cm.) cm.3 according to the individual. 70 g. pasta or noodles
We must not forget that iogestedingested liquids leave the stomach g. rice
70 g.
very rapidly
very rapidly and
and enter only minimally
enter only minimally intointo calculations
calculations g. dried vegetables (haricot beans, lentils,
75 g. lenlils, peas, etc.)
involving the volume of aliments. g. potatoes (gross weight)
350 g.
Classification of the alimmts -- Any attempt to
tbe aliments to draw
draw up a 150 g.
g. chestnuts
chestnuts (gross weight)
set guiding principles for
set of guiding for sensible eating mustmust be
be based 90 g. prunes, etc.)
g. dried fruit (dates, figs, prunes,
upon quite aa simple classification of the aliments.
little to choose between the varÎous
There is liule various classifications MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION
MUTUAL OF FATTY
SUBSTITUTION OF
nutritionists, but like Mme. Randoin we prefer
suggested by nutritîonists, SUBSTANCES
the following: G. BUTTER
100 G. BUTTER can lipids by:
as aa source of lipids
can be replaced as
l. Milk and its derivatives (with the exception
1. exception of butter). g. animal fat
100 g. fat, etc.)
fat (lard, mutton fat,
2. Various meats and
2. and fish,
fish, eggs. g. oil
85 g.
3. Fatty substances.
3. g. margarine
100 g.
4. Starchy
4. Starchy foods (flour, bread,
foods (flour, bread, noodles, rice, dried
noodles, rice, dried vege- 120 g. unsmoked bacon
tables, potatoes) and and sweetened fruit, sugar,
sweetened foods (dried fruit, sugar,
jam, chocolate, etc.). Consisteocy alimenb=
Consistmcy of the aliments foods is of
consistency of foods
- The consistency
5. Fresh vegeta
5. bles and
vegetables and fruit: far greater importance (as regards their digestion) than their
(a) eaten
(a) eaten raw (cruditis)
ruur (crudités) volume or
volume or weight. As aa rule,
weight. As rule, whatever
whatever their initial con-
their initial
(b) eaten cooked. sistency, alîment5 to reach
aliments ought to reach the stomach reduced
the stomach reduced toto a

t3
13
ALIMENTATION
ALIMENTATION

rulp (or
mlp (or pap)
pap) tbrough
through mastication
mastication and insalivation (for
and insalivation (for thethe value, here,
value. according to
here, according to aa learned
learned Swedish doctor, are
Swedish doctor, are the
the
gastric musculature
6astric musculature isis too too feeble
feeble in in tbethe humanhuman species species to to produced on
effects produced
effects on man
man byby the
the different
different foods
foods he he eats:
eats:
break down
break down large fragments; the
large fragments; latter lie
the latter lie tootoo longlong in in the
the -- By
By eating
eating beef (especially roast
beef (especially roast beef) for months
beef) for months on on end,
end,
stomach and
stomach and cao can cause dyspepsia). The
cause dyspepsia). The bad bad habit habit of of not
not one certain to
one isis certain to acquire
acquire self-confidence
self-confidence and and audacity
audacity ...
...
chewing food
chewiog properly, of
food properly, of swallowing
swallowing too too quickly
quickly (tachy-(tachy- Mutton makes
-- Mutton makes one melancholy ...
one melancholy ...
phagra) has
pbagia) has thethe worst possible effects.
worst possible effects. Pork makes
-- Pork makes one one pessimistic.
pessimistic. CouldCould ilit be that pork
be that pork
X-ray examination
X-ray examination reveals, reveals, for for example,
example, that that aa hard- hard- butchers
bu only see
tchers only the black
see the black side of things?
side of things?
boiled egg,
boiled considered to
egg, considered to he be one
one of of the
the mostmost indigestible
indigestible of of Duck ftesh
-- Duck flesh makes man bad-tcmpered
makes man bad-tempered .. . . ..
foods, leaves
foods, leaves the the stomach
stomach just just as quickly as
as quickly soft-boiled egg
as aa soft-boiled egg For wit
-- For wit and
and beauty
beauty eggs
eggs areare supreme
supreme .. . . ..
if itit isis grated
if grated finely
finely (or (or chewed
chewed very thoroughly) to
very thoroughly) give itit aa
to give Walnuts, hazelnuts,
-- Walnuts, almonds, dried
hazelnuts, almonds, dried figs
figs develop
develop thethe
similar consistency.
similar consistency. mind....
mind ..
We must
We must Dot not conclude
conclude from from this this thatthat the the Ideal
ideal way way of of -- Tomatoes,
Tomatoes, orangesoranges andand lemons
lemons considerably
considerably improve
improve
ingesting food
ingesting food isis in in thethe fform
onn of of aa purée;
pur6e; on on the contrary,
the contrary, quality of
the quality
the of the voice ...
the voiee ...
pur6ed foods
puréed foods are are aa last resort, to
last resort, to have
have recourse
recourse to to inin cases
cases of of Finally, doughy
-- Finally, doughy English-type
English-type bread bread slows
slows thethe mental
mental
infection of
infection of the mouth and
the mouth and teeth,
teeth, or or as temporary measure
as aa temporary measure light-textured brcad
processes; light-textured
processes; assures aa buoyant
bread assures buoyant morale.
morale.
in some
in some forms forms of of dyspepsia,
dyspepsia, or or in in the
the earlyearly stagesstages of of con-
con- Rye bread and
Rye buckwheatpancake
and buckwheat pançake make one melancholy....
one melancholy ..
valescence. The
valescence. importance ofmasticatîon,
The importance of mastication, insalivation, insalivation, and and
digestion cannot
digestion cannot he over emphasised;
be over emphasised; aa diet diet consîsling
consisting solely solely ALIMENTATION -- Alimentation
ALIMENTATION Alimentation varies varies according
according to to age,
age,
of puréed
of pur6ed foods foods wouldwould not not stimulate
stimulate the the stomach
stomach muscles muscles climate, profession, and
climate, profession, and state
state of of health.
health.
sufficiently and
slIfficiently and could
could ca cause gastric atony;
use gastric atony; itit could could also also lead
lead Alimentation must
Alimentation must be be adequate.
adequate. Il It must (with a
provide (with
must provide
to dental
to dental caries owing to
caries owing to the
the enforced
enforced idleness idleness imposed imposed on on small excess)
small excess) the the wherewithal
wherewithal for for growth
growth (in (in the
the young
young
the teeth.
the teeth. So So one one mustmust encourage
encourage the the culinary
culinary habit habit of of person), for the repai! repair andand upkeep of ofthe and organs,
tissues and
the tissues organs,
adding some
adding some hard hard substances
substances (fried (fried croûtons,
cro0tons, for for example)
example) and for the
and the expenditure of ofenergy.
energy.
to foods
to presented in
foods presented pur6ed fonn.
in puréed form. To determine the
To the energy
energy value
value of an aliment or
an aliment or diet,
diet, wc
we
Tenperature of
Temperabue of the alimenb- Hot
the aliments·- Hot foods
foods are more stimulat-
are morestimulat- employ as aa measure the calorie (q.v.), going
employas going on the principle
ing than
lng than cold cold and and manman alwaysalways looks looks for for such stimulation in
such stimulation in that ail
that all forms of energy energy can oc
can be transfonned
transformed into heat.
his food, for
his food, for unlike
unlike other other animalanimal species species he he is is not
not content
content Various methods methods are are used
used to to determine tbe the requirements
simply to
simply to have
have his his hunger
hunger appeased.
appeased. of the
of the human body. body. One One way is by calculating
is by calculating the the average
Only extreme
Only temperatures are
extreme lemperatures harmful to
are harmful to tbethe organism. from
from the global alimentation of
the global of aa population.
population. AnotberAnother
If food
If food is is too
too hot hot itit can can cause
cause burns burns to to the the mou mouth, the
th, the method
method is is by
by analysing the the ingesta (aliments and
ingesta (aliments and oxygen
tongue, and
longue, and the the œsophagus,
esophagus, especially especially when when hot Iiquids liquids are consumed), and the excreta
cODsumed), excreta (excretions, secretions, carbonic
secretions, carbonic
gulped down.
gulped down. The latter can
The latter can also cause irritation
also cause irritation to to the exhaled) and
acid exhaled) quantity of
and the quantity ofheat discharged.
heat discharged.
stomach which
stomach which may may even develop into
even develop gastritis.
into gastritis. Modern dieticians a{"e
Modern are agreed
agreed that the normal normal alimentation
alimentation
Foods which
Foods which are are too too cold cold induceinduce conslriction
constriction of of the for
for anan adult of of average weight (65 (65 kg.
kg. oror 143 lb.) in in repose
capillary blood
capillary blood vessels
vessels of of the
the stomach,
stomach, causing causing subsequentsubsequent or engaged in
or in only
only Iight
light duties
duties mustmust correspond to to 2350
dilatation.
dilatation. The The side side effects
effects are are eveneven worse worse than than those calorieg that
calories, tbat is approximately 36
is approximately calories for
36 calories every kg.
for every
produced
produced by foods which
by foods which are are tootoo hot.hot. of weight (2.2lb.).(2·2 lb.). Previously
Previously aa much higher calorie intake
The nature
The nature and consistency of
and consistency of the aliments have
the aliments have aa strong was considered
consid ered necessary.
bearing
bearing on on howhow their
their temperature
temperature is is withstood;
withstood; one can, can, ifif We usually allow that:
need
need be, be, sipsip broth
broth or or coffee
coffee at 60"C. (140'F.);
at 60~C. (140~ F.); porridge porridge taken I1 g. albuminoids
albuminoids gives out 4'44 calories
4·44
at
al the the same temperature would
same temperature would have have serious
serious effects.effects. The I1 g.
g. carbohydrates
carbohydrates gives out 4'23 calories
4·23
particular
particular moment moment at at which
wbich these these foods
foods are are quickly
quickly swal- swal- I1 g.
g. fat gives out
fat gives 9.40 calories
9-40
lowed
lowed is is also significant; an
also significant; an iced substance taken
îced substance taken on on an The figures of of the physiologist M.
the physiologist M. Atwater
Atwater are are slightly
empty
empty stomach storoacb can can be be harmful,
harmful, whereas whereas the effect of
the effect of an ice lower because he incorporated
lower because incorporated losses losses and waste productsproducts in
cream
cream taken taken immediately
immediately after after a meal and
a meal and received
received by by an tbem. His
them. His table reads as follows:
already full
already stomach would
full stomach wou!d not not be be nearly
nearly so so serious.
serious. Albuminoids
Albuminoids 3·68 calories per g.
3'68
Too
Too swift swift a transition from
a transition from hot hot to cold, for
to cold, for example,
example, aa Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates 3·00 calories per g.
3'00
hot
hot foodfood followed
followed immediately
immediately by by an iced drink,
an iced drînk, is is extremely
extreme1y Fats 8·65 calories per g.
8'65
harmful
harrnful to to the enamel of
the enamel of the
the teeth.
teeth. He
He also distinguished
distingulshed between substances of
between substances animal origin
of animal
Soups rapidly
Soups become cold
rapidly become cold in the plate,
in the plate, so so theythey areare usually
usually (best
(best utilised)
utilised) and substances of vegetable origin. To obtain
of vegetable obtaill
served very
served very hot; hot; itit is is hardly possible to
hardly possible to drink
drink aa clear clear soupsoup 100 calories one
100 one must consume, according to
consume, according to him:
him:
heated
heated above above 60"C. 60°C. (140°F.) -- even
(140"F.) even aboveabove 58"C. 58°C. (136'F.).
(l36°F.). Animal proteins
Animal proteins 23· 50 g.
23.50 g.
Most
Most people people wait wait until
until itit cools
cools to 37° to
to 37" 45 C (99'to
to 45"C c
(99° to 103'F.)
103°F.) Vegetable proteins
Vegetable proteins 28'19
28·19 g.
to laste the
to taste the flavour.
flavour. Amyloide
Amyloide substancessubstances 25.00
25·00 g.
Thick
Thick soups, soups, porridges,
porridges, vegetable vegetable pur6es purees must must not not be be Animal
Animal fats fats ll.18
11·18 g.
g.
drunk
d runk above above 38" 38° to 42 C. (100"
to 42"C.Q
(100° to to 107'F.).
107°F.). Vegetable fats
Vegetable fats ll'97
11·97 s.
g.
Roast
Roast meat meat isis usually
usually served served between
between 40o 40° and 45°C. (104'
and 45"C. (104° We
We must must not not loselose sight of the fact
of the fact that these figures
that these figures are
and ll3"F).
and I13 e F). Its temperature must
Its temperature must not not fall fall belowbelow 40"C. 40°C. merely averages, and
merely averages, while of
and while of great interest in
great interest in alimentary
alimentary
(104'F.)
(104°F.) otherwiseotherwise the the fat begins to
fa t begins congeal (this
to congeal (this is is especially
especially studies of
studies collectivitîes they
of collectivities they loselose their
their precision
precision when when
true
true of of roast
roast mutton).
mutton). This This isis whywhy platesplates are heated (particu-
are heated (particu- reduced to
reduced to the level of
the level of individuals.
indivîduals.
larly
larly meat meat plates).
plates). The food
The requirements of
food requirements the child
of the child areare (in
(În proportion
proportion
HotHot bread bread of 38 C. (100"F.)
of 38"C.Q
(100°F.) and and aboveabove is is much
much more more to
to its weight) slightly
its weight) higher than
slightly higher those of
than those an adult
of an since itit
adult since
indigestible than
indigestible than cold cold bread; bread; this depends less
Ihis depends less on on the the must satisfy its
must satisfy ifS growing
growing needs. Those of
needs. Those of the
the aged
aged areare less
less
temperature itself
temperature itself thanthan on on the the physical
physical conditioncondition of of the
the bccause ofthe
because expenditure ofenergy.
reduced expenditure
of the reduced ofenergy. Food Food require-
require-
crumb. ItIl isis aa widespread
crumb. widespread belief, belief, however,
however, that that slow slow digestion
digestion ments increase with
ments increase with the lowering of
the lowering of exterior
exterior temperatures
temperatures
of
of cold
cold foodsfoods is beneficiaJ. Ninon
1S beneficial. Ninon de de Lenclos
Lenclos attributesattributes his his and with
and with the the work
work done.done.
sprightly
sprightly old age to
old age having all
to having ail hishis life ea ten cold
lire eaten cold food.food. The daily
The daily dietdiet must
must be be balanced.It
balanced. It must must contain
contain aa mini-
mini-
Psychologicd
PsychologicaJ effects effects of of the aliments -- For
the aliments For its its curiosity
curiosity mum
mum amount amount of of albuminoids
albuminoids and and fats,
fats, and
and enough
enough carbo-
carbo-

l4
14
 ALLIGATOR
ALLIGATOR

hydrates to
hydrates ensure that
to ensure the two
that the two preceding
preceding elements are with an extremely strong pungent
water, with pungent odour
odour reminiscent
reminiscent
thoroughly
thoroughly utilised.
utilised. of urine. Its
of urine. Its fumes can be asphyxiating. It is
asphyxiating. It used in
is used con-
in con-
normal diet must
The normal must comprise:
comprise: . fectionery as a solvent for
fectionery as carmines.
for cochineal carmines.
80 g. albuminoids
80 albuminoids vegetable origin
ALKALOIDS. lrcnroinss
ALKALOIDS. ALCALOÏDES - of vegetable
- Substances of
70 g. fats
70 fats on the
that a powerful
that have a effect on
powerful effect even when
the organism, even
350 g.
350 g. carbohydrates
carbohydrates
absorbed in
absorbed in minute quantities. in coffee,
(The stimulants in
quantities. (The coffee,
The proportion
The proportion of fats in
of fats in an diet must be higher in
an infant's diet
and chocolate are
tea and are alkaloids.)
alkaloids.)
relation to
relation to carbohydrates.
carbohydrates.
The daily
The dai/y diet must
must be The impossibility of
be varied. The of measur-
measur- ALKERMES. lrrnnuis
ALKERMES. ALKERMÈS -- An red cordial,
old-fashioned red
An old-fashioned cordial,
imponderables of
the imponderables
ing the alimentation (very minute
of alimentation minute mineral
mineraI very popular, produced by
once very
once distilling aa sweetened
by distilling sweetened
substances and vitamins)
"UiU:>I,<lll\A<O and vitamins) obliges
obliges us to procure
us to our alimentary
procure our alimentary infusion of nutmeg,
infusion nutmeg, cinnamon, bay leaf and
bay leaf and cloyes. Its
cloves. Its
elements from a
elements a wide variety of nutrients (something, in hence its name.
colour is derived from kermes, hence name.
fact, that man has always done instinctively).
instinctively).
ALLARH (Jack-by-the.hedge). ALLIAIRE
ALLARIA (Jack-by-the-bedge). ALLIAIRE -- This plant has
This plant has aa
It is probable
It is probable that the disorders from following too
disorders arising from
of flavour, and can be
very pronounced garlic flavour, used as
be used condi-
as aa condi-
uniform a diet are caused by the
uniform the absence or deficiency of
these imponderables.
imIPOJr1df:ralbles. ment for salads.
The daily dietdiel must be be pleasant. Although it is possible
possible to ALLEMANDE SAUCE
ALLEMANDE SAUCE - The name given given to aa classic white
classic white
feed like
feed like animals upon what
sim ply upon
animaIs simply nature provides
what nature (as
pro vides (as sauce made by adding egg yolks yolks and cream to toaveloutd (q.v.).
a velouté (q.v.).
members of certain certain sects do) man
sects do) man hashas always tried to in-
tried to A more modern version of
A of the
the recipe for for this
this sauce
sauce (one(one
crease the savouriness
crease savouriness of of his food by adding palatable condi- of the best
best in the culinary repertoire) is
the French culinary given in
is given in the
ments and
ments and by applying heat.
by applying The culinary
heat. The art, which
culinary art, which is devoted to sauces.
section devoted
derived from these two operations, has the effect effect of adding Despite its
Despite its name,
name, thisthis sauce
sauce is is not
not of of German
German origin.
to the psychological need and satisfaction oftaking nourish-
of taking nourish- According to to Carême
Car€me it it isis soso called
called because
because of of its
its light
ment, a gustative, olfactory satisfaction, and in so doing has colour, and
colom, and to distinguish itit from
to distinguish from espagnole
espagnole sauce, sauce, which
exerted
exerted an an influence
influence on on the development of
the development of the
the human is (The latter
dark. (The
is dark. latter does
does not not seem
seem to to have originated in
have originated in
species. Spain, either.)
Natural alimentation-
aHmentation - Without either denigrating culinary
either denigrating In the
the French culinaryculinary repertoire, there there is is an
an enormous
enonnous
qualities or
qualities or betraying gastronomic traditions,
betraying gastronomic traditions, dieticians number of
number of designations
designations borrowedborrowed from from otherother cotmtries,
countries,
encourage us
encourage us toto use
use natural foods in
natural foods in the composition of
the composition of most of
most of them
them describing dishes dishes of of entirely
entirely FrenchFrench origin.
origin.
menus. Modem authors
Modern authors also refer to
also refer to thethe allemande
allemande as as Sauce
Smtce
This means that we ought not to to consume food food products parisienne (see
parisienne SAUCE).
(see SAUCE).
that have
have been
been subjected to to any form of chemical adultera- Car6me's recipe -- Carême
Carême's Car€me begins by by giving the the recipe
recipe forfor
tion. Mme. Randoin defined the problem perfectly when she Velouté sauce (see
VeloutC sauce SAUCE), then
(soo SAUCE), describes the prepara
then de5;cnbes preparationtion
wrote: 'Nourishing ourselves
WTote: ourselves is is aa serious business upon
serious business of allemande
of allemande sauce sauce as follows:
as follows:
much, good and
which much,
which and bad,
bad, depends.
depends. It It isis incumbent, half the
'Pour half
'Pour the velouté
velouti into into aa saucepan.
saucepan. Add Add an an equal
therefore, uponupon each
each oneone of us to realise
us to that we
realise that we make
make or or quantity of of good
good chicken
chicken consommé,
consomm6, to to which
which has has been
break our health
health by a judicious or or injudicious
injudicious choice
choice ofof the added aa few mushrooms
added mushrooms (stalks (stalks and peel), and
and peel), and as much salt
as much salt
elements that constitute our daily diet.' as can be
as can held on
be held on the point of
the point ofaa knife.
knife.
The fact remains that every individual case different, and
case is different, and Place the
Place the sauce
sauce over brisk heat
over aa brisk heat andand stirstir with
with aa woodwooden en
that although we we have aa few general
general lines to go on,
to go on, there
there are
are until itit cornes
spoon until comes to to the boil. Draw
the boil. Draw itit away away from from the the
no truly standard régimes r6gimes inin alimentation.
alimentation. flame, coyer,
cover, and and leave
leave to to simmer
simmer for for about
about an hour. Skim
an hour. Skim
Besides
Besides using natural products
using natural wherever possible, the
products wherever the off the fat
off fat and
and replace
replace on on aa high high flame, stirring with
flame, stirring with thethe
best
best one
one cancan do to follow
do isis to the precepts of quantity, of
follow the of wooden spoon
wooden spoon to prevent itit sticking
to prevent sticking to to the bottom of
the bottom of the
the
preparation, and and of cooking methods laid down by the
of cooking the pan. When
pan. perfectly cooked,
When perfectly cooked, the the sauce
sauce shouldshould coat coat the the
dieticians. surface of
surface of aa spoon quite quite thickly;
thickly; and and whenwhen poured, itit
introduction of
Forced feeding- The introduction of aliments into
directly into
aliments directly should be
should of the same
be of same consistency
consistency as redcurrant jelly.
as redcurrant
the "lU'l1AQ,,",lI.
stomach. Remove
Remove the saucepan from
the saucepan from the heat and
the heat prepare aa liaison
and prepare
Artificia.l
Artificial feeding
feedlng -- Alimentary
Alimentary substances
substances cancan be be made
made to to using 44 egg
using yolks mixed
egg yolks mixed withwith 22 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons)
penetrate
penetrate the the organism by by channels
channels other than the
other than gastric
the gastric cream.
cream. Pass through aa sieve,
this through
Pass this adding aa piece
sieve, adding piece of of best butter
best butter
one.
one. These
These procedures are are confined
confined toto the medical domain.
the medical domain. the size
the size ofof anan egg, cut into small
cut into small pieces. Pour Pour the liaison,
the liaison,
(Food). ALCAUNISANTS (Aliments) -- little by
little little, into the
by !iUle, velouti, stirring carefuJly
the velouté, carefully with with the the
ALKALESCENTS (Food).
ALKALESCENTS ALcALINISANTS (Aliments)
Foods that (lime, soda, wooden spoon
wooden spoon to make sure
to make sure thatthat itit isis blended in in smoothly.
smoothly.
that contain
contain an
an ex cess of
excess of basic
basic elements
elements (lime, soda,
potassium, m'lgrleslurn). When itit isis ail
When perfectly incorporated,
all perfectly incorporated, replace replace the the sauce
sauce on on aa
magnesium).
moderate heat
moderate heat and continue stirring.
and continue
Milk and
Milk are the only alkalescents of animal origin.
and blood are
As soon
As soon as few bubbles start
as aa fewbubbles start to to rise, remove
rise, rem from the
ove from the
On the
On the other
other hand, most foods of vegetable origin
hand, most origin areare
heat and add
heat and add as grated nutmeg
much grated
as much nutmeg as can be
as can held on
be held on the
the
alkalescents
alkalescents with
with the
the exception
exception of of cereals, cereal products
cereal products
of vegetables of which point of
point of aa knife.
knife. When When weilwell blended,
blended, pass through aasieve.'
pass through sieve.'
and aa number
and number of vegetables of which we we consume
consume the the
flowers (artichoke) or
flowers or buds
buds (asparagus,
(asparagus, Brussels
Brussels sprouts).
sprouts).
ALLIGATOR -- A
ALLIGATOR A species
species of American crocodile
of American crocodile commonly
commonly
All acid-tasting
Ali acid-tasting fruit such
such asas lemons,
lemons, redcurrants,
redcurrants, etc.,
etc., are
are
called cayman.
called
alkalescents.
alkalescents. The alligator has
The already bec
has already become part of
orne aa part of the gastronomic
thegastronomic
Celery, Jerusalem
Jerusalem artichokes, turnips, carrots,
artichokes, turnips, carrots, beetroot,
beetroot,
world. Not
world. Not onJy rather too
its rather
only isis its musky flesh
too musky flesh eaten
eaten by by the
the
cucumber, cabbage,
----
cabbage, dandelions,
.. 1. . - -
dandelions, endive,
endive, lettuce,
lettuce, tomatoes,
tomatoes,
it, but
but slices alligator are occasionally
natives who
natives who capture
capture it, slices ofof alligator are occasionally
spinach,
spinach, oranges,
oranges, tangerines
tangerines and and lemons
lemons are very strong
are very strong
served
served in in London
London and and Paris.
Paris.
alkalescents;
alkalescents; other
other fruits,
fruits, milk,
milk, potatoes
potatoes and
and cauliflower,
cauliflower, less
less
The most valued
The most parts of
valued parts of the reptile are
the reptile feet or
thefeet
are the flippers,
or fljppers,
so.
so.
since the alligator,
since the although Jess
alligator, aJthough aquatic than
less aquatic than most
mostcroco-
croco-
ALKALMLATILE.
ALKALI VOLATILE. ALCALI voLArIL-
ALcALI VOLATIL - Commonly known
Commonly known diles,
diles, also lives in
also lives in water.
water. These flippersare
These flippers I'amiri-
are prepared dl'améri-
as
as liquid ammonia. ItIt isis aa colourless
liquid ammonia. liquid, lighter
colourless liquid, lighter than
than caine, àd /'indienne
caine, I'indienne or or inin any
any similar TURTLE.)
manner. (See TURTLE.)
similar manner.

15
t5
ALLSPICE
ALLSPICE

ALLSPICE.
ALLSPICE. rourE ÉPICE -
TOUTE 6prcs Corn mon name for the myrtle
- Common them into pieces
strips, cut them (l inch) wide, and bake
pieces 2 to 3 cm. (1
seed (Jamaica
seed (Jarnaica pepper) and for
pepper) and for cultivated
cultivated nigella
nigella (fennel
(fennel in the oven
oyen at 200'C. (400'F., Gas Mark 6) for 12 minutes.
200°C. (400°F.,
flower).
f1ower).
ALMOND.
ALMOND. AMANDE
AMANDE - of a stone fruit, particularly of
- Kernel of
ALLUMBTTES
ALLUMETTES - Strips of of puff
puff pastry variously
variously garnished the almond tree.
tree. There are
are two varieties, sweet almond and
and
baked in
and baked in the
the oven.
oyen. bitter almond.
almond. They come mostly from from North Africa,
Africa, Pro-
Little cakes made of of puff
puff pastry and and filled or garnished
garnished vence, Italy
ltaly and Languedoc, and
and from California, U.S.A.
with
with various
various mixtures
mixtures are also called ca lIed allumettes.
allumettes. More than half their weight is oil. There are two varieties
Allumettes (hot
Allumettes (hot hors-d'auvre) -
hors-d'œuvre) - Roll out a a strip of puff of this; one is used principally in perfumery,
is used perfumery, the other in
pastry
pastry to aa thickness
thickness of of ]t cm. (+ (t inch) and aboutabout 7 to 8 cm. pharmaceutics, in the manufacture
manufacture of soothing emulsions.
(3 inches) wide.
(3 inches) Co ver the
wide. Cover the surface with f'rsft forcemeat, or
Fish forcemeat, The almond tree
The tree is mentioned in Genesis, and almonds were
any
any other
other suggested mixture (see
suggested mixture (see FORCEMEATS
FORCEMEA TS or among the fruit offered to Joseph (see ALMOND, Country
STUFFINGS). Cut into rectangles,
STUFFINGS). place on a baking
rectangles, place baking tray,
tray, almond).
almond).
and bakebake in in the oyen at 200'C.
the oven 200°C. (400"F.,
(400°F., Gas Mark 6) for
about
about 15 15 minutes.
minutes.
Allumettes Ià la
Allumettes périgourdine - Coat
la perigourdine Coat the puff puff pastry
pastry with a
purée of
puree chicken livers
of chicken livers (see FORCEMEATS or STUFF-
(see FORCEMEATS STUFF-
INGS)
INGS) mixed mixed with
with finely
finely chopped
chopped truffies. Bake in
truffles. Bake in the oven.
oyen.
Allumettes ià la
Allumettes reine -- Coat
la reine Coat thethe puff
puff pastry
pastry with
with aa very
very fine
fine
mixture of
mixture of minced breast of
minced breast of chicken and truffies,
truffles, blended
blended
with thick
with thick Veloutd sauce (se,
Velouté sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Bake Bake in in the
the oven.
oyen.
Allumettes Ià la
Allumettes toscane - Sprinkle
la toscane Sprinkle the the sheet of of puff
puff pastry
pastry
with grated
with Parmesan. Cut
grated Parmesan. Cut into strips and
into strips bake in
and bake in the
the oven.
oyen.
Ox
Ox palate
palate allumettes.
allumettes. ALLT,JMETTES
ALLUMETTES DE DE pALArs
PALAIS DE DE BGUF
BŒUF - -
'Remove
'Remove the skin from
the skin from 22 ox palates
palates previously
previously cooked
cooked in
water.
water. CutCut into
into strips
strips the size of
the size matchsticks and
ofmatchsticks marinate in
and marinate in
lemon juice
lemon juice oror vinegar seasoned with aa little
vinegar seasoned salt, sprigs of
little salt,
parsley,
parsley, andand whole
whole spring
spring onions.
onions. When
When they are thoroughly
they are thoroughly
macerated drain
macerated drain them,
them, and and dip them in
dip them in a batter
batter made
made as as
follows:
follows:
'Place 22 good
'Place handfuls of
good handfuls f1our, I1 tablespoon
of flour, tablespoon fine fine oil,
oil,
Almond
and aa little
and finely ground
little finely salt, into
ground salt, basin. Dilute
into aa basin. this gradu-
Dilute this gradu-
ally with
ally beer until
with beer until the
the batter reaches the
batter reaches consistency of
the consistency
thick cream. Dip
thick cream. the palate
Dip the palate strips into it
strips into and fry
it and fry until
until
golden
golden brown. Serve as
brown. Serve as hot possible.' (La
as possible.'
hot as Cuisine bour-
(La Cuisine bour- Aboukir almonds (confectionery).
Aboukir almonds (confectionery). nrrlNnEs D'ABOUKIR --
AMANDES D'ABoUKIR
geoise,1769,
geoise, 1769, Paris)Paris) Petits
Petits fours, made of kirsch-flavoured,
fours, made kirsch-flavoured, green-coloured
almond paste, shaped in
almond paste, the form of
in the of an almond,
almond, and stuffed
stuffed
with
with aa blanched almond. Aboukirs
blanched almond. coated with gum, or
Aboukirs are coated
iced with
iced with sugar cooked to
sugar cooked to hard
hard crack
crack stage (see
(see SUGAR).
SUGAR).
Almond and
Almond and puff
puff pastry gâteau. cArntu
pastry gffteau. FEUILLETÉ lux
GÂTEAU rEUlLrerE AUX
This gdteau
AMANDES - This
AMANDES- gâteau isis known
known under
under the
the name
name of Pithiviers
of Pithiviers
(q.v.).
(q.v.).
Almond
Almond butter.butter. BEURRE D'AMANDES -- Pound
BEURRE D'AMANDEs Pound 150 150 g.
(5 oz.,l
(5 oz., 1cup)
cup) freshly
freshly blanched
blanched almonds
almonds in in aa mortar
mortar until
until they
they
are reduced to
are reduced to aa paste,
paste, adding
adding aa fewfew drops
drops of of cold water
water to to
prevent
prevent them them from tuming into
from turning into oil. Pound in
oil. Pound in 225 g.g. (8
(8 oz.,
oz.,
I1 cup)
cup) fresh
fresh butter.
butter. Pass
Pass through
through aa veryvery fine
fine sieve.
sieve.
This butter
This used for
butter isis used for flavouring
flavouring certain
certain sauces
sauces and and cream
cream
soups; itit isis also
soups; also used
used in in the
the preparation
preparation of of cold d'œuvre.
cold hors d'euvre.
Almond cuokies.
Almond cookies. rAINS ANGLAIS -- Small
PAINS ANGLlrs Small dry dry cookies
cookies pre-pre-
pared in
pared the following
in the following manner.
manner.
Ingredients. 225
Ingredients. 225 g. g. (8 oz., 2
(8 oz., 2 cups) sieved flour,
cups) sieved flour, 225 g. g.
Allumettes (cakes)
Allumettes (cakes)
(8(8 oz., cups) ground
oz., 22 cups) ground almonds,
almonds, 225 225 g. (8 oz., I1 cup)
g. (8 cup) castor
castor
(fine) sugar,
(fine) sugar, 100 100 g.g. (4 oz., It cup)
(4 oz., cup) butter,
butter, 44 eggs,
eggs, halfa
half a liqueur
liqueur
Allumettes (cakes)
Allumettes (cakes) -- These sweet pastry
These sweet pastry cakes
cakes are
are said
said to
to glass of
glass of rum.
rum.
have been
have been created century ago
created aa century ago by Swiss pastry-cook
by aa Swiss pastry-cook who
who Method. Sieve
Method. Sieve thethe flour
flour onto
onto thethe table.
table. Make
Make aa wellweil inin the
the
lived in
lived Dinard (Ille-et-Vilaine).
in Dinard (Ille-et-Vilaine). M. M. Lacam,
Lacam, who who wrote wrote aa centre and
centre and add add the almonds, the
the almonds, the sugar
sugar andand thethe well-softened
well-softened
history
history ofofpastry-making,
pastry-making, describes describes thethe invention
invention as as follows:
follows: butter. Break
butter. Break the the eggs
eggs into
into these
these ingredients
ingredients and and pour
pour inin the
the
'One
'One day Planta, the
day Planta, above-mentioned pastry-cook,
the above-mentioned pastry-cook, had had rum. To
rum. To prevent
prevent burning,
burning, mix mix thethe paste
paste without kneading it
without kneading it
sorne icing
some icing left
left over
over andand diddid not
not know
know what what to to do do with
with it.
it. (if too firm,
(if too firm, addadd an egg yolk).
an egg yolk).
Having softened it,
Having softened it, he added aa pinch
he added pinch ofofflour
flour to
to itit in
in order
order toto Roll
Roll the paste into
the paste into long
long sausages
sa usages on on the
the lightly
lightly floured
floured
prevent
prevent the sugar from
the sugar from running
running in in the heat ofthe
the heat of the oven,oyen, andand table. Cut
table. Cut them
them intointo small
small pieces
pieces and
and roll
roll these
these into
into balls.
balls.
spread ititon
spread onaa sheet
sheetof puffpastry.
ofpuff pastry. This
This hehe cut
cutinto
into little
little sticks
sticks Space the
Space the balls out on
balls out on buttered
buttered trays
trays (use
(use two).
two). Coat
Coat each
each
and baked in
and baked in the
the oven,'
oven.' bail twioe
ball twiee with
with beaten
beaten egg egg and
and score
score with
with the
the blade
blade ofof aa wet
wet
Thus allumettes, na sort
Thus allumettes, sort of ofdry petitfour
drypetit four which
which are are now
now so so knife. Bake
knife. Bake for for 2020 minutes
minutes in in aa slow
slow oven.
oyen.
popular,
popular, were
were invented.
invented. Almond
Almond cookies (lemon-flavoured). pArNS
cookies Qemon-flavoured). PAINS ANcLArs
ANGLAIS AU AU
Method. Roll
Method. Roll out
out somesorne puff pastry to
puff pastry to the thickness of
the thickness of CITRON -- Pound
cIrRoN Pound 225 225 g. g. (8 oz., l|
(8 oz., 1t cups)
cups) blanched
blanched almonds
almonds
mm. (*
44 mm. (t inch)
inch) andand cutcut itit into
into strips
strips 88 cm.cm. (3(3 inches)
inches) wide. wide. finely with
finely with 225 225 g.g. (8 oz., I1 cup)
(8 oz., cup) castor
castor (fine)
(fine) sugar
sugar and 22
Spread aa thin
Spread layer of
thin layer Royal icing
of Royal (see ICING)
icing (see ICING) on on these
these whole eggs.
whole eggs.

l6
16
 ALMOND
ALMOND

Sieve 225 g. (8 oz.,

Sieve 225 OZ., 2 2 cups) flour onto onto the table.
table. MakeMake a well weil Here it is in verse:
verse:
in the centre
centre and place place the pounded mixture mixture in it. il. Add 175 g. Comment fait les tartelettes amandines
on fail
Comment on amandines
(6 OZ., *
(6 oz., i cup) butter and and the grated rind
the grated rind of 1 I lemon
lemon (or
orange). Knead well weil together. Battez, pour
Battez, pour qu'ils soient mousseux,
Divide
Divide the paste into
the paste into walnut-sized pieces. Sprinkle the
pieces. Sprinkle Quelques eufs;
Quelques œufs:
table lightly with
table with flour
flour and and formform thesethese intointo little
little cigars,
cigars, Incorporez d à leur mousse
mousse
pointed
pointed at each end. Place them on a buttered baking baking sheet, Un jut de cCdrat
Un jus cédrat choisi;
choisi:
brush with beaten egg and score in the centre. Bake Bake in a hot Versez-y
oven for 8 to to l0
JO minutes.
min utes. Un bon lait d'amande d'amanck douce;
douce;
Almond
Almond cream. creaOl. cnirunCRÈME D'AMANDES - Prepare ]~ litre
- Prepare Mettez de ck la la pdte
pâte àdflan
flan
(scant pint" 2*
(seant pînt, cups) crime
2l'cups) pâtissière in the usual manner,
crème pdtissiCre Dalll Ie
Dans le flanc
flanc
cool it and add to it 250 g. (9 oz.,l] OZ., l-t cups)
cups) freshly blanched De moules dà tartelette;
tartelette:
pounded to
almonds poundod
almonds to a a smooth
smooth paste paste withwith 250250 g. g. (9
(9 oz.,
OZ., D'tm doigt preste
D'un doigt preste abricotez
abricotez
generous
generous cup) sugar sugar and 250 250 g. (9 oz.,OZ., generous
generous cup) butter. butter. Les
Les cdtds;
côtés;
This cream is
This cream used for
is used for filling
filling sweet dishes. For
sweet dishes. uime
For crème Versez goutte dà gouttelette
Versez
pdtissiire
pâtissière see CREA MS, French postry
see CREAMS, pastry ueam.
cream. mousse m
Votre mousse
Votre en ces puits, puis
puis
Almond loaf. pAlN
Almond COMPLET -
PAfN coMpLE'r - A cakecake made of almond almond Que ces puits
Que puits
paste shaped like like a loaf.
10af. Passent anfour,
au four, et, blondines,
blondines,
Almood milk.
Almond milk. rlrr D'AMAl';1)E.S -
LAIT D'AMANDEs - The
The codexcodex gives gives the Sortant en gais troupelets,
troupelets,
following recipe for almond
followiog recipe almond milk: milk: SOn! les
Ce sont
Ingredients. 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., seant *
OZ., scant ! cup)
cup) blanched
blanched sweet Tartelettes
Tar amandines.
t e le t t e s amandine s.
almonds, 50 50 g. (2 oz.,OZ., Ii cup) white sugar, I1dl. (6 tablespoons,
cup) white tablespoons, Beat your eggs, the yolk and white
Beat
seant *t cup) distilled water.
scant Very light;
Method.
Method. Place the almonds, sugar sugar and water in a marble Mingle with their creamy fluff
their creamy
mortar and pound to a very smooth smooth paste. Press Press through a Drops of lime juice,
of lime juice, cool and green;
greeo;
fine sieve.
sievc. Theo pour in
Then
Alnond
Almood nougat. nougat. NoucATNOUGAT AUx AMANDES -
AUX AMANDTs - Dry
Dry 500 500 g. Milk of almonds. just
of almonds, just enough.
enough.
(18 OZ., 4l
(18 oz., 4t cups) blanched, chopped almonds in the the oven.
oyen. Dainty patty pans,
Dainty pans, embraced
embraced
Place them in a copper bowl
Place them which 400 g. (14 oz.,l|
bowl in which oz., li cups) cups) In puff-paste --
ftavoured with
sugar, flavoured wîth a squeeze of lemon juice,
a squeeze juice, has has been these ready within reach;
Have these
boiled to to a pale
pale caramel. Stir Stif this mixture with a spatula. With your thumb
With and finger, pinch
thumb and pinch
While
Whîle the mixture is
the mixture is still hot, pour
still hot, pour it it into
into variously
variously Half
Half an inch
inch
shaped greased moulds. moulds. Alternatively, the the nougat
nougat may may be Up around the of each --
the edge of
spread thinly
thinly on an oiled oîled marble slab and cut eut into different
different Into these, a score or more,
Into these,
shapes.
shapes.
Slowly pour
Slowly pour
Nougat prepared in this way may be shapcd into bowls,
he shaped All
Ail your store
store of
of custard;
custard; so
so
baskets, clogs
c10gs and other other objects.
objects. golden-brown --
them, bake them golden-brown
Take them,
Almood paste I. pAtE
Almond D'AMANDES -
PÂTE n',q,Ira.l,NDEs Crush 450 g.
- Crush g. (l
(1 lb., Now sit down! .... ..
3 cups) blanched almonds and place them in a mortar with
Almond tartlets!i
Almond tartlets!·
the
the selected flavouring (vanilla
selected flavouring (vanilla sugarsugar or or liqueur).
liqueur). Cook
900 g. (2
900 lb., 4 cups)
cups) sugar
sugar to to hard
hard crack stage stage (see SUGAR).
SUGA R). *• From Hooker's translationof
Qlb.,4 From Brian
Brian Hooker's Cyruno de Bergerac
translation o/Cyrano by Ehnond
Bergerac by EdmoruJ
Add
Add this gradually to the almonds, pounding vigorously
the almonds, vigorously Rostand. Published by Heinemann
Ros/and. Published with Allen & tlnwin.
association with
Heinemann in association Unwin.
until well
weil mixed.
Almood paste
Almond paste II. n. pArE D'AMANDES -
PÂTE D'^luANDEs - Ingredients. 475 475 g. Bitter almonds. AMANDES AMÈRES -
AMANDfS ,ltr{tnss - Bitter almonds
almonds owe
(17 OZ.,
o2.,3| cups) sweet almonds, 25 g. (1
3t cups) (1 oz.,
OZ., 3 tablespoons) bitterness to
their bitterness relatively high amount
to the relatively amount of of prussic acid
bitter almonds., 5 g. (l
bitter almonds, teaspoon) gum arabic,
(1 teaspoon) arabic, 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.,
OZ., contain. They should therefore
they contain. therefore be used in moderation.
moderation.
seant cup) icing sugar, I1 egg white, juie
scant juice of I1 lemon. almonds are employed in pdtisserie
These almonds pâtisserie for flavouring
fiavouring
Method.
Method. PoundPound the almonds almonds with the lemon juioe
the lemon juice and pass pass icings and fillings; and
icings and and in confectionery.
confectionery. TheyThey are
are not
not used
used as
through
through a fine strainer. Put into a copper pan
fine strainer. pan with the icing icing dessert fruit.
sugar and egg egg white. Dry this mixture gently over
this mixture over heat,
heat, The oil obtained
obUlÎned from from them is is poisonous.
poisonous.
stirring all the time. Add the
ail the the gum arabic dissolved dissolved in in a little Bhnctd
Blanched almonds. MONDÉES -
AMANDES uoNoEss
almonds. AMANDES - Drid
Dried almonds
almonds
water. from
from which
which the the skin
skin has removed. Proceed in
been removed.
has been in the
To
To behe perfect this this paste
paste mustmust not be be sticky. It Il is used
used as an following
following manner.
manner. Put Put the almonds
almonds into sieve; plunge
into a sieve; into aa
plunge into
abaisse (q.v.)
abaisse (q.v.) in various
various sweet dishes and petits petits fours.
fours. saucepan of
saucepan of boiling
boiling water lmmediately draw the sauce-
water and immediately
Almood praline. rRALIN
Almond PRALIN Aux AMANDES -
AUX AMANDnS Melt 450 g. (l
- Melt (l lb.,
lb., pan to the side of
to the of the stove.
2 cups) castor (fine) sugar slowly slowly in a copper pan. Cook it Drain
Drain the
the almonds, a few few at
at a time, aod skin
lime, and them as soon
skin thern
until it reaches
until reaches the the degree of of light caramel, 160'C. 160°C. (320"F.).
(320"F .). as you seesee that the cornes off when
the skin comes when pressed with the
Add to sugar 450 g. (l
to this sugar lb., 33 cups)
(lIb., cups) raw unblanched
unblanched well- well- fingers. Drop
Drop them them into water, drain and pat
into cold water, pat dry. IfIf
dried almonds. t hey are to
they 10 be kept, sca tter on a sieve or fine grill and dry
kept, scatter
Tip all
ail this
this mixture
mixture onto an marbre slab. Allow to
an oiled marble thorougbly in a slow
thoroughly slow oven. Store in a
oyen. Store a tin or jarjar with a
cool. Pound the the mixture in in a mortar. Pass Pass it through
through a fine well-fitting lid.
well-fitting Keep in a dry place.
lid. Keep place.
sieve. Keep
Keep this almond powder
this dry almond powder in tins with well-fittingwell-fitting Chopped elmonds.
Chopped almonds. AMANDES HACHÉES -- These are
AMANDES HAcHEEs are blanched
blanched
lids. almonds roughly or finely chopped depending upon
almonds roughly upon howhow
Almond
Almond tartlets.
tartlets. TARTELETTES AMANDTNES AMANDINE.<; -- The recipe recipe for are to
they are he employed.
to be employed.
these very delicate tartlets
these tartlets was was setset to rhyme by
to rhyme by Edmond
Edmond Coloured
Coloured almonds. AMANDES cot.oRfEs
a Lmonds. AMANDES COLORÉES - Variously
Variously
Rostand in Cyrarn Cyrano de de Bergerac.
Bergerac. The itself istS attributed
recipe itself
The recipe coloured shredded
coloured shredded and and ground
ground almonds
almonds are use<:! for
are used for colour-
colour-
to Ragueneau, the
to Ragueneau, the famous
famous seventeenth-century pastry- pastry- ing nougat and for
Îng nougat sprinkling on iced
for sprinkling iced petits
petits fours, cakes,
fours, cakes,
cook. biscuits (cookies)
biscuits (eookies) and sweet dishes. dishes.

17
ALMONDS. EARTH
ALMONDS,

appropriate to the colour may be added'

Flavouring appropriate added: thus etc. Verdun
filbert paste, etc. Verdun sugared almonds are are particularly
particularly
pink
pink may be scented raspberry essence; mauve flavoured
scented with raspberryessence, esteemed.
with
wi th essence of violets. Sweet almollds. DoucEs -- Sweet almonds are in
almonds. AMANDES DOUCES
Country ahrod (lndian
Country 1Iimond (Indian almond
almond tree).
tuee). BADAMIER -
uomum. - This great demand
gœat demand for pdtisserie
pâtisserie and all Spanish
confectionery; ail
and confectionery;
which is
tree, wruch
tree, is also
also ca lied catappa, grows generally in
called in Asia. and Italian almonds are sweet.
and
The fmitfruit is
is an
an almond, of pleasant pleasant taste, from wruch which an oil
an oil Green sweet almonds are greatly esteemed
esteemed as dessert fruit
somewhat similar to olive oil is extracted. and are consumed
and consumed in great quantities. They are less oily and
Another species of country country almond producesproduces resinous and
resinous and that reason easier to digest
for that digest than dryalmonds.
dry.almonds.
aromatic matter,
aromatic matter, aa kind kind of gumgum benzoin, which which is is used in
used in Whole 1Ilmonds.
Wbole almonds AMANDES
AMANDEs ENTIÈRES
ENTTiRES ..- When
When a a recipe in
confectionery.
confectionery. pdtisserie and confectionery
pâtisserie and calls for
confectionery calls for aa certain
certain amount
amount of
Dic€d aImonds.
Diced almonds. AMANDEsAMANDES EN EN ofs -
DÉS - Blanched,
Blanched, halved whole almonds, this means blanched almonds and not raw
almonds cut into large or or small dice as as required. They are always referred to as raw, meaning with
almonds, which are always
used for sweet dishes and and in pdtisserie.
pâtisserie. the thin brown skin left on.
Raw 1Ilmonds.
almonds. AMANDES
AMANDEs BRUTES BRUTEs -- ThisThis is the name
is the name given
tn pdtisserie
in pâtisserie and confectionery to
and confectionery almonds which
to almonds which have ALMONDS, EARTH. EARTH. AMANDES
AMANDEs DE rERRE ..- These
DE TERRE These are
simply been taken
simply takeh out of of their hard shells but
hard shells are left un-
but are cyperus tubers, grow in marshy ground
tubers, which grow ground in countries
skinned. with hot and
and tempera
temperate climates.
te c1imates.
The hard-shelled Provençal Provengal almonds are the the most sought atnond-shaped tubers
These almond-shaped
These are brown
tubers are outside, very
brown outside,
after for pdtisserie.
after pâtisserie. But medium-sized almonds grown in the white inside
inside and extremely starchy. They can either be eaten
plains are also in great demand. These often contain quite a raw (Iike
raw chestnuts). A kind
(like hazelnuts) or cooked (like chestnuts). kind of
high proportion
high proportion of bitter bitter almonds and and are
are the ones pre-
the ones flour is made from them.
ferred for for ma
making
king almond paste. ALOCASIA -- Plant indigenous to the Indies of which there
ALOCASIA
The broad and fleshy béraude comprise a smaller
biraudc almonds comprise are about fifteen
arc known species.
fifteen known The most
species. The important of
most important
percentage of bitter almonds and are generally shredded or
percentage these, a native of Ceylon, has spread throughout
ofCeylon, throughout most of
of the
ground and
ground used for sprinkling on petits
and used fours, biscuits and
petits fours, Indian subcontinent. There its voluminous roots serve as
il, voluminous as a
sweet dishes. prolonged period of cooking.
food, but only after a prolonged cooking.
almonds are irregular in shape and very small.
Tournefort a/monds
Because of their
Because excellent flavour, they are much in demand
theu excellent ALOE. Aloiis
ALOÈS -- A genus of plants
plants belonging to the family
for the confection
confection of almond paste. Liliaceae. From
Liliaceae. From the of this
the leaves of plant aa purgative
this plant purgative gum
alnonds.
Roasted almolld
Roasled cnIrrfss -- Shred
.... AMANDES GRILLÉES Shed the almonds resin Vietnam produce
resin is extracted. Certain species found in Vietnam
and dry thern them in the oven until they turn pale golden. an edible starch.
starch.
Salted almollds. AMANDEs SALÉES
almonds. AMANDES sALfEs - - Toast sweet blanched erpruu-A
ALPIIEUS. ALPHÉE
ALPHEUS. -- A kind of shellfish slightly corn·
shellfish with a slightly com-
almonds in the oven until their
almonds their colour changes to pale yellow,
colour changes pressed body
body resembling that of the crayfish. SorneSome species
species
turning once. Sprinkle
tuming Sprinkle with with a pinch ofsaffron,
of saffron, red pepper
pepper and are found in ail coastal waters; others are peculiar
all French coastal peculiar to
ginger then fry in butter
ginger butter until golden
golden brown. Drain on a cloth the Mediterranean.
Mediterranean. Sorne
Some varieties are are confined to the seas
and cool. Finally, coat the almonds with a clear solution of of of Asia, Australia and America.
America.
gum arabic and sprinkle sprinkle with fine salt. Although quality to the spiny
Although inferior in quality spiny lobster, this shell-
shell-
alnonds. AMANDES nrrnfrs
Shredded almonds. EFFILÉES - .. These areare used
used a is quite highly esteemed. All
fish is
fish Ail methods of preparation
great deal
grcat pâtisserie and in confectionery.
deal in pdtisserie Shredded and
confectionery. Shredded given for lobster
lobstcr are applicable to it.
il.
roasted almonds are used for coating and garnishing sweet
dishes; shredded, unroasted (white)
dishes; shredded, (white) almonds are are used
used for ALSACE
ALSACE- - The Alsatian
Aisatian larder is well
larder is stocked with
weIl stocked with numerous
coatinEpetitsfours,
coating confection of
petits fours, and in the confection of cooked nougat, excellent foods. Alsace
and excellent Alsace has a long tradition of good fare
tradition of
Mont6limar nougat,
Montélimar nougat, petits fours, meringues,
petils fours, meringues, almond so it is
50 is not
not surprising that its
surprising that its gastronomic
gastronomie repertoire
repertoire isis a
slices, etc. lengthy one, full of succulent
succulent dishes.
There are several very efficient implements for shredding From
From Strasbourg and Colmar Colmar come that source of unend-
source of
operation can be performed
although the operation
almonds, although equally
perforrncd equally ing delight to
ing delight gourmands, the
to gourmands, the magnificent terrines and
magnificent terrines and
well by hand. Thealmondsshould
weil The almonds should be lengthwise and each
cut lengthwise
becut pdtis
pâtés de foies gras gras truffés,
truffis, which rival in i! thcir
their delicacy even
shredded into twelve to
one shredded
one to fifteen
fifteen pieces. ThisThis shou
shouldId be those of of the south-west
south-west of of France
France (see PÂTÉS, TERRINES).
PATES, TERRlNES).
done immediately
irnroediately arterafter blanching
blancrung and and before
berore the the almonds The most delectable charcuteries in France are also found
delectable charcuteries found
dried. After
are dried.
are Aner shredding they they should be laid on
be laid on aa metal in
in Alsace, and and thanks to the quality of the pork pork shoulder,
sheet
sheetand dried in aavery
and dried slow oven or
very slow orin
in awarmingcupboard.
a warrning cupboard. smoked bacon, save/oy saveloy and sausages, the
and sausages, choucroute pre-
the choucroute
During the dryingdrying process they should be turned three three times strasbourgeoise is more delicious than
pared àd la mode strasbourgeolse than any
aa day. StoreStore in hermetically
hermetically sealed tins. others.
others.
dnonds DRAGÉES
Sugared almollds. onic.cfEs - - Almonds coatedcoated with hard But choucroute andfoies gras truffis,
cllOucroute andfoies excellent though
truffés, excellent though they
sugar. Sugared almonds (not, (not, strictly
strictly speaking,
speaking, exactly
exactly as we be, are not the only specialities.
specialities.
know
know thern today, but
them today, but nevertheless coated with
nevertheless coated with sugar or Meat in this trus region is of of good quality. PorkPork is particularly
particularly
honey) have aa long history. Il It is said that around
around the year tasty. Seigneur cochon ('the ('the noble pig') holds a place of high
177 t.c.
177 B.C. aa patrician Roman Roman family,
farnily, the
the illustrious Fabius honour in Alsace. The Benedictine monks were the first to
Alsace. The
family, had the habit of of distributing sugared almonds to the recognise the advantages
recognise advantages of ofpig
pig breeding.
populace as a token of ofrejoicing
rejoicing on the occasion
occasion of ofaa birth
birlh or 'The Benedictine monks, who were were the first to keep fish 5sh
marriage in the family.
in the farnily. So it is evident that the custom
So il custorn ofof ponds, thus thus laying the basis of pisciculture,
the basis were also the
pisciculture, were
presenting sugared almonds
presenttng sugared almonds at at the celebration of
the celebration of aa birth first to
first recognise the
to recognise advantages of pig
the advantages pig breeding,'
breeding,' writes
goes back a very long way.
goes Paul Bouillard in an essay on the cookery of Alsace. In
of Alsace. ln fact,
It is
is difficult to make
make sugared almonds home, and hardly
almonds at home, the region produces
the region firm-textured, delicately
produces firm·textured, delicately flavoured,
flavoured,
necessary, considering the excellent
nec€ssary, excellent sugared almonds manu- admirable pork. The Strasbourg pork butchers,
admirable butchers, masters
masters of
factured commercially. Some
factured commercially. Some are made from
are made from windfall
wÎndfall their art, transform it into a number of preparations preparations which
which
almonds; others with hazelnuts or pistachios;
almonds; pistachios; others again cnjoyed by the gourmets of
are not only enjoyed Alsace but in all
of Alsace ail the
filled with
filled with a a few drops of
few drops of liqueur, chocolate, almond or
chocolate, almond best Paris restaurants.

l8
18
 ALSACE

I NE 'I- R MA.NY Alsatian

Alsatian geese
is from geese that
these specially fattened geese
from these that the magnificent
magnmcent
It
geese are famous for the delicacy of their flesh. It

\_rtr
_ :
liver is obtained which the maîtres
liver Alsace trans-
mattres de cuisine in Alsace
form so skilfully
fonn celebrated pdtes
skilfully into the celebrated and terrines.
pâtés and
''-;ffl r,"*Yr.r'",'\egetabl The vegetables of Alsace look goodgood and good. And
and taste good.
the
the orchards
orchards ofof Alsace produce
produce delectable fruit of
delectable fruit of which
some, such as quetsches (Alsace plums) and mirabelle plums,
sorne, plums,
are not only delicious to eat fresh fresh but are also used used to make
Kirsch. '--' .c'/ /' ./ : ( noted eaux-de-vie
noted eaux-de-vie (see (see SPIRITS).
SPIRITS). The list wou
The list would not be
Id not
--/'/ -Brandies:
Quets h, t'l c i ra bei e. jy^&'.oJ .'t. S ?RA S URC complete without mentioning the
complete without the cherries
cherries and and thethe rasp-
-' - - ttei., *irlrr%,,,.., J ry
I

berries, which are

berries, which are distilled to to make
make well-known liqueurs.
The freshwater fish fish are renowned, too. Who does does not know
("//.. J f;[:!"lll;:n:n'
\--r,'soiQo*^i.elfl,r:r:,5;":
.
the succulence of of the Rhine salmon,
salmon, the river trou trout,t, the cray-
- from the
fish from
fish the streams
streams of of the
the Vosges;
Vosges; the the eels, tench and
eels, tench and
_t,lt;:;j,!,ric",y1rtt!:,;:,:Jl;^,(fti"fr*S{t':,'.
_,rhothlu,rt <"prt-Z) c,n!".'ul"aol iili"l''u',.-. or "".r. bream from from which
which delicious matelotesmatelotes au au vin d'Alsace are
vin d'Alsace are
r."
\t
\/ tl.lo i./+R,""./',,/rtrr).
(J
/.1::1:,*i,'..,1''o'"'
i.' qu/(r,e 6aio n t r'. t y. ili,i',
e u,, n (bacon
lili'.i',lj;,, poup,anrs of vcrt,
prepared
prepared ?
Y i " ;am I Brlrcrry
1

nt.!, po.i *,rtr With such raw materials -- and we have by no no means men-
?n! ll: I:: (* ff;
quetrcho.
^- -,9
-;?
\ f' )',r 77i/llc,testrtit l1l:"',','.i:1
ff;:'-1T :"1,'{:: tioned aIl all of them -- the mattes de
the maîtres cuisine and
de cuisine and cordon
cordon bleu
s r,f d| ; qi o */, r;J.',H t :i
t
if :: ;, ;l:; ^,:1";l:::0, chefs ofof Alsace
Alsace cannot help but cook weil. well. In fact the Alsace
Alsace
' aux(Mtnei 1( j ^ pirt'
i/f!f:x,T ii';nii#"::.:
tomatoes wrth " Ct'on'curc ot
-- ,i'- meal is aa perfect epicurean
meal epicurean symphony.
,.o_,) o$"tl Besides the
Besides the magnificent
magnificent choucroute
chouuoute de de Strasbourg
Strasbourg and and
Cravfirh ! a.c -,t'! lCOlmAa p,!ed,or,cnrorc. pdti
pâté de foie grasgras aux aix truffes
truffes thethe following are principal
the principal
are the
KCf fy ;;.^!lE,*.j^, ti,j,.,1,"f,.;,i:1,r".
pre ved.sbose
Je r
n Alsace, dishes truly
dishes of Alsace, truly representative
representative of of the
the region's
,{* n*f
i;;,%;-- RHINE
t p
vr,rrrf h??rl?fi
p B n llil'l, :i',0,",0o'
. ",. Il"';ffi
d'onrs ,
xl.Ppc'
;'
n *''* n'
superb cuisine:
potee : matelote
Salmon, Po.rn specialities -- Aisatian
Culinary specialities Alsatian potée: matelote of of fish
.fish de
de
iJ;;;-'- --A-"-i8'F.,"" S/
f,'fil''"''' !l I'Ill; crayfish
l'Ill; crayfish'cardinalised
'cardinalised in Alsatian wine';
in Alsatian wine'; stuffed carp carp àd
stuffed breast or ;;llfir" S/I ll rAW.(onron nan),
breast of of veal;
veal; hothot meat
U I Errycclo.
l'alsacienne; crayfish flan; sstuffed
crayfish flan; tuffed breast
I t pdti ; anion
pâté; onion flan or zewelewal;
zewelewai; civet of hare
civet of hare with
with noodles;
noodles ;
( | s(icntcle, flan or
OllSB | Eicrlucto,
saddle of hare hare àd la crime; beckenoffe,
la crème; beckenoffe, aa kind kind of estouffade
estouffade
made with
made with mutton,
mutton, pork pork and which must
potatoes, which
and potatoes, must be
cooked in
cooked in aa baker's
baker's oyen oven to justify its
to justify its name;
name; fat geese àd
fat geese
I'alsacienne;the
l'alsaCienne; shoulder of
i.e., shoulder
the schifela, i.e., pork with pickled
of pork pickled
turnips; ham
turnips; ham cooked
cooked in in pastry;
pastry; fricassée
fricassde of of chicken
chicken àd
salmis of
I'alsacienne; salmis
l'alsacienne; goose; turkey
of goose; turkey with
with chestnuts; calfs
chestnuts; calf's
liverfritters;
liver fritters; chartreuse
chartreuse of kalerel, aakind
partridges;kalerei,
of partridges; kind of pork
of pork
brawn; Strasbourg
brawn; Strasbourg black puddings, saveloys
black puddings, saveloys and and sausages;
sausages;
stufed sucking
stuffed sucking pig pig 'à
'd la peau de
la peau goret' ; red
de goret'; red cabbage
cabbage with with
Gastronomie
Gastronomic map of Alsace
map of Alsace potatoes àd l'alsacienne;
chestnuts; potatoes
chestnuts; I'alsacienne; kohl rabi àd la
kohl rabi la crème;
crime;

$itirj:iifl'fiii,=''

AJsatian
Alsatian charcuterie (pork butcher:y
charcuterie (pork butchery produce):
produce):
l.l. Little
Little Strasbourg
Strasbourg sa
sausages (knackwurst);2.
usages (knackwurst); 2. Saveloys;
Saveloys; 3. 3. Thann
Thann sausage;
sausage;4. 4. Metwurst;
Metwurstl 5.5. Black
Black pudding with tangue;
pudding with tongue;6. 6. Ham
Ham sausage (Schinkenwurst);
sausage (Schinkenwurst);
7.7. Schwartenroagen;
Schwartenmagen; 8. 8. Bierwurst;
Bierwurst; 9.
9. Veal roll; 10.
Veal roll; 10. Schwartwurst;
Schwartwurst; Il.I l. Strasbourg
Strasbourg sausage;
sausage; 12.
12. Mulhouse
Mulhouse sausage;
sausage; J3. Lyon type
13. Lyon type sausageroade in
sausage made in
Strasbourg;
Strasbourg; 14. Leberwurst; 15.
14. Leberwurst; 15. Tongue roli with
Tongue roll with truffies;
trufres; 16.
16. Veal roll with
Veal roll with foie
foie gras
gras

19
19
 (A L')
ALSACIENNE (À
ALSACIENNE L')

Wasselonne
o

s'n"^"*
{ o
-, - Q!?"w.E
R'TS1st

Alsatian kugelhopf
Alsatian kugclbopf
iylvtancr
noodles à
noodles l'alsacienne; knepfle.
d l'alsacienne; knepfle,a kind of
a kind fritter; mi/chstriwle;
of fritter; milchstriwle;
bretzel; schenkele;
bretzel; schenkele; beignets
beignets dede carnaval
carnaval (car (carnival fritters);
nival fritters);
various types·
various types of of Aisatian
Alsatian tarts;
tarts; kougloff
kougloff or or kugelhopf;
kugelhopf;
Jewish kouguel;
Jewish kouguel ; bi/berry
bilberry flan; kafeekrantz, etc.
flan ; kaffeekrantz, etc.
Winos -- To
WiDes To accompany
accompany ail all these good things,
these good things, Alsace
Alsace
produceq in
produces, in addition
addition to to aa delicious
delicious beer,
beer, sorne
some rarerare and
and
exceptional wines, which which are white.
are mostly white.
The decree
The decree of of 33 October
October 1962 created the
1962 created the appellation
appellation
'Alsace' or
'Alsace' or 'vin
'vin d'Alsace'.
d'Alsace'. ThisThis appellation
appellation can include the
can include the Hardt Clevner
variety of grape.
variety grape. InIn fact,
fact, Alsace
Alsace wine
wine does not usually
does not usually bear
bear
the na
the name
me of of the locality from
the locality which itit cornes,
from which comes, butbut of of the
the IINE
grape used
variety of grape used inin its production.
its production. iVeuf
Cipaga nobles.
Cépages Sylvaner. A fresh, fruit
nobles. Sylvaner. fruityy wine,
wine, best drunk
best drunk
young. Excellent accompaniment for
young. for sauerkraut
sauerkraut and and char-
char-
rch;/
cuterie.
Muscat. A
Muscat. A wine
generally served as an
with aa distinct aromatic
wine with
an apéritif
aromatic Bavour
ap'6ritif or dessert
dessert wine.
flavour tbat
that isis Guebwr'ller v
Pinot gris (or 'Alsace Tokay'):
gris (or Tokay'): Quite
Quite aa full-bodied
full-bodied winewine
with aa delicate bouquet.
Pinot blanc
Pinot blanc (or (or Clevner):
Clevner): A A fresh,
freslr" rather
rather sharp
sharp wine,
often used
used for blending.
Gewiirztraminer and Traminer.
Gewürztrarniner Traminer. The The wine fromfrom tbis grape
this grape
fruity,
is very fruit y, with aa distinctive
distinctive flavour,
flavour, and and isis often drunk
well
weil matured. Wine
Wine map
map of
of Alsace
Alsace
Riesling. A dry, dty, very elegant vigour. Perfect
elegant wine, full of vigour.
for fish,
fish, shellfish and seafood.
seafood. It It also goes well
also goes well with
with sauer- Cépages
Cdpages courants. Chasselas
Chasselas andand Kniperlé.
Kniperl6. Carafe
Carafe wines.
wines.
kraut. The
The wine resulting from the blending of
from the of cépages
cipages nobles
nobles and
and
cipages courants is
cépages is called Zwicket Edelzwicker
called Zwicker. Edelzwicker isis the
the name
name
given to aa b1end
blend of cépages
cipages nobles.
nobles.
Red wines
wines and
and Rosés.
Rosis. The
The red
red wines
wines are
are made
made from
from the
the
black Pinot grape,
grape, rosé
ros6 from the
the grey
grey Pinot
Pinot grape.
grape. Produc-
Produc-
tion is poor compared to that of of white wine.
wine. The
The name of of the
the
locality often
locality often accompanies
accompanies that of the
that of the grape.
grape. Among
Among the
best known are Ammerschwihr,
Ammerschwihr, Barr, Barr, Eguisheim, Kaysers-
Kaysers-
berg,
berg, Kientzheim,
Kientzheim, Mittelwihr, Ribeauvillé,
Ribeauvill6, Riquewihr.
Riquewihr.
ALSACIENNE (A L') -- Definition app1ying
ALSACIENNE applying to
ro an
an enormous
enonnous
number of preparations. The predominating
predominating ingredients of
of
dishes
dishes thus prepared are
thus prepared are sauerkraut, ham
ham and
and Strasbourg
Strasbourg
sausage.
sausage.

ALUM. ALUN -- A double sulphate

sulphate of aluminium and and potas-
sium or ammonium; an an astringent-tasting
astringent-tasting salt.
salt.
Alum was once usedused in confectionery
confectionery to
to set
set the co10ur
colour of
of
crystallised fruits,
fruits, and
and in pâtisserie to
in pdtisserie to prevent
prevent eggegg whites
from whi1e being whisked. This
from curdling while This is
is now
now forbidden
forbidden
by law.
ALUMINlTE -A
ALLTMINITE - A kind
kind of alumina-based fireproof
of alumina-based fireproof porcelain.
All
Ali porcelains, in fact,
fact, are based on
are based on alumina
alumina silicates,
silicates, but
but
higher content
aluminite has a higher content of
of alumina
alumina (oxide of of alumi-
alumi-
is consequently much tougher than
nium) and is than other
other porce-
Vines in
Vines Alsace (French
in Alsace (French Government
Governmenr Tourist
Tourisi Ofice)
Office) lains and possesses a far greater resistance
resistance to heat.
to heat.

20
20
 AMBIGU

kitchen utensils:
Aluminite kitchen utensils :
L Gratin dish:
1. dish; 2.
2. Saucepan:
Saucepan; 3. 6lter: 4.
3. Coffee fiIter; 4. Sauté
Saut6 pan; 5.
5. Vegetable steamer; 6. dish; 7.
6. Snail dish; 7. Plate;
Plate; 8.
8. Rarnekin:
Ramekin; 9. Shell; 10. Soufflé
9. Shell; SouffiE dish

ALUMINIUM -- Ductile,
Ductile, resistant metal looks like
that looks
metal that positively ecstatic outpouring, sings the praises
Savarin, in a positively
sil ver, its principal characteristic being its extreme
silver, extreme lightness.
lightness. of the restorative powers of ambergris chocolate.
The numerous properties of of aluminium have led to its use This product, which
This which was
was formerly uSedused inin confectionery
confectionery
in the manufacture
manufacture of of kitchen utensils: saucepans, marmites,
marmites, and in cookery, is today used perfumery.
used as ila fixative in perfümery.
stewpans, etc.
stewpans, etc. Conclusive
Conclusive experiments
experiments werewere previously
previously In Miditation
ln Méditation VI Z1 Brillat-Savarin refers to
Brillat-Savarin refers to ambergris
carried out to determine the actionaction various liquids used used in chocolate as the 'chocolate of the
as the africted': '1
the affiicted': 'I know that
preparation of food
the preparation food had
had on aluminium. Marshal glorious memory, constantly
Marshal Richelieu, of glorious constantly chewed
It has been proved that there is little or no reaction with ambergris lozenges;
lozenges; asas for myself, when 1 I get
get one
one of those
red or
red or white
white wine,
wine, brandy, pure a1cohol,
brandy, pure alcohol, coffee
coffee oror tea days when the weight of age makes itself felt, or when one's
itself feh,
poured in hot, beer,
beer, 5 per cent
cent solution of tartaric, acetic, mind is sluggish,
sluggish, 1I add a knob ofof ambergris
ambergris the size of of a bean,
acids, 3 per cent solution of butyric
citric, lactic or phenic acids, pounded with sugar,
poundedwith to aa strong
sugar, to strong cup
cup of chocolate, and and 1I
acid, 0·2 per cent solution
0'2 percent of salicylic acid. Nitric acid, on the
solution ofsalicylic always find my
always find my condition
condition improves
improves marvellously.
marvellously. The
other hand, attacks the metal vigorously.
vigorously. burden of life becomes lighter, thoughts ftow flow with ease;
ease, and
1I do
do not suffer from insomnia, which would have have been
bden the
AMANITA.
AMANIT A. AMANITE
AMANITE -- A genus of fungi of
of the agaric
agaric group.
invariable result of a cup of coffee taken for the same pur-
invariable
There are numerous species ofof amanitae,
amanitae, sorne
some edible, others
pose.'
dangerous and
and even deadly. It is,
is, therefore, very important
highly praises the power of
Brillat-Savarin also bighly of ambergris
to learn to recognise them. (See MUSHROOMS.)
MUSHROOMS.)
in his Magl'stires
Magistères Restaurants.
Restaurants.
AMARANTH.
AMARANTH. AMARANTE plant is
This plant
,lMA.n.ANrp -- This is cultivated
cultivated in
AMBIGU (Cold collation) -- Trévoux
(Cold collation) gives the
Trivoux Dictionary gives
for the beauty of its ftowers.
France mainly for In Italy, how-
flowers. In
following definition: 'A mixed
definition: 'A at which
following collation at
mixed collation which meat
ever, the tender leaves
leaves of one variety
variety of amaranth are eaten,
and fruit are served together
together in such
such a manner
manner as to make one
prepared rather like spinach.
spinach.
wonder whether it is a simple collation or a supper.'
AMBERGRIS. AMBRE cRIs -- An intestinal
Nvrsns GRIS intestinal concretion
concretion of
of the In other dictionaries
ln dictionaries the
the sa me definition, or
same or nearly
nearly the
found ftoating
sperm whale found
sperm floating on the Far Eastern
the surface of Far Eastern sa me, is given with the proviso that the dishes served at this
same,
wax-like substance, dotted with yellow and black
seas. It is a wax-like kind of
of meal must be cold.
spots, and possessing a strong and pleasant smel!.
spots, smell. U sed in
Used lnhis
ln his Dictionnaire
Dictionnaire universel de cuisine,
universel de cuisine, Joseph Favre says
ancient pharmacopoeia as
ancient as anan antispasmodic, itit was
wasalso
also that the word ambigu is applicable to a meal which is taken
Brillat-
credited with aphrodisiac and restorative properties. Brillat- dinner. or between dinner and lun-
between luncheon and dinner,

Amanitae

2l
21
AMBROSIA
AMBROSIA

cheon, and at which ail

cheon, all the dishes, the sweets and the dessert, found in
found in Asia
Asia and Africa. The
and Africa. The species known under
species known under thethe
are served at the same lime.
time. name of
scientific name
scientific of Amomum cardamon produces capsular
Amomwn cardamon capsular
This name
name should apply specifically to to an
an evening
evening meal, fruit often called
called cardamom,
cardamom, which
which are
are used asas aa substitute
substitute
or supper served between
between midnight and and two o'dock in the
o'clock in the real cardamom.
for real cardamom.
morning, in the course of a soirée
morning, soirie (evening
(evening party). Considerable
Considerable quantities of amomum
quantities of amomum are are exported
exported from from
A kind
AMBROSIE -- A of tea
kind of from the
made from
tea made
Siam, Singapore
Siam, Singapore andand Saigon. In France
Saigon. In France thethe seeds
seeds areare
AMBROSIA. tr,rnnosrE the variously known
variously known as grains of
as grains of paradise, Malaguetta
Malaguetta pepper,
ambrosier, a bush with sweet-smelling
arnbrosier, sweet-smelling flowers
flowers and
and leaves. It
leaves. It
Guinea grains, and
Guinea grains, and are
are occasionally used
used as substitute for
as aa sulJstlltulte
said to have
is said have restorative
restorative powers,
powers, especially for stomachic
especially for pepper.
complaints.
complaints.
AMOU - Béarnaise
AMOU- B6arnaise cheese
cheese consumed from October
consumod from October to
to May.
May.
AMÉLÉON -- A
AMELEON A French
French word
word used
used in for aa
in Normandy for
particular kind of
of cider. AMOURETTES -- Culinary
AMOURETTES Culinary name
name forfor the
the spinal
spinal marrow
marrow of of
oxen
oxen and
and calves.
calves. Calves' delicate in
amourettes, very delicate
Calves'amourettes, in flavour,
flavour,
AMERICA -- Wines
Wines and cuisine. (See
and cuisine. WINES, INTER-
(See WINES, are
are used asas aa filling
filling for patties, hot
for patties, pies, vol-au-vent,
hot timbales,pies, vol-au-vent,
NATIONAL COOKERY.)
COOKERY.) etc.
etc.
AMÉRICAINE (À
anAEnfClINE L) -- Name given
(A V) of
given to various methods of Amourettes
Amourettes can can also
also be
be prepared
prepared as as an
an independent
independent dish,dish,
preparing meat,
preparing meat, fish,
fish, eggs,
eggs, vegetables.
vegetables. Among
Among these
these pre-
pre- made
made into
into croquettes,
croquettes, and and various
various fried
fried dishes,
dishes, etc.
etc.
parations the best-known is
the best-known Lobster àd l'américaine
is Lobster I'amiricaine (see
(see Most of
Most of th..::
the recipes
recipes given forfor ca Ives' and
calves' and lambs' brains -
lambs' brains
LOBSTER). which amourettes
amourettes rather resemble
resemble -- cancan be
be applied to to them.
them.
No
No matter how how amourettes
amourettes areare prepared, they should
should first
first
AMERICAN P ARTRIDGE. COLIN
PARTRIDGE. corrN -- Bird
Bird of
of the
the partridge
partridge be
be boiled in court-bouillon
boiled in (q.v.) in the same
court-bouillon (q.v.) same wayway as
as calves'
calves'
family, aa little larger than
than quail,
quail, very
very common in in America. and
and lambs' brains (see
lambs'brains (see OFFAL
OFFAL or or VARIETY
VARIETY MEATS).MEATS).
The
The colin loui, also
colin loui, also called
called American quail (bob-white,
Americmt quail (bob-white,
Virginian colin) is highly esteemed AMPHICLES -- Celebrated
AMPHICLES Celebrated cook cook of of ancient
ancient Greece.
Greece. More More
Virginiot esteemed inin the
the United
United States,
States, and
and than
than any any ofof his
his colleagues of of that
that distant
distant epoch,
epoch, Amphicles
Amphicles
is now established
established in England. (For its culinary preparation,
deserves
deserves to to oe
be rescued from from oblivion.
oblivion. He He alone
alone recognised
recognised
see QUAIL,
see QUAIL, PARTRIDGE.) all that
ail that was
wa3 barbarous
barbarous and and foolishly
foolishly ostentatious
ostentatious in in the
the
AMIENS -- This town in Picardy is
AMIENS is famous,
famous, gastronomically
gastronomically culinary methods of
culinary methods of his
his time,
time, and and in in bis
his teachings,
teachings, and and in in
speaking,
speaking, for its duck pie, its andouillettes and
its andouillettes and its macaroons.
macaroons. - practice,
practice, he he devoted
devoted himself
himself to to the task of
the task of bringing
bringing to to them
them aa
saner
saner logic. 'Amphicles liked liked to to prepare
prepare nature's
nature's products
AMIRAL
AMIRAL (À (A L') -- Name given to fish
fish dishes.
dishes. The
The character-
character- simply.
simply. He had a hare cooked cooked on on aa spit
spit and
and served under- under-
istic
istic feature of these dishes is
these dishes is their
their garnish,
garnish, composed
composed of of done
done withwith nothing
nothing but sprinkling of
but aa sprinkling of coriander
coriander and and fenne!.
fennel.
fried mussels
mussels and
and oysters,
oysters, crayfish tails and
and truffies,
trufres, to which
which He
He maintained
maintained that that aa sucking
sucking pig pig should
should simply
simply be be boiled
boiled
peeled
peeled mushrooms are are added.
added. The
The sauce
sauce isis aa Normandy and
and placed on bed of
on aa bed of sage.
sage. He He wrapped larks larks in in vine
vine leaves
leaves
sauce (see
sauce (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) flavoured
flavoured with
with Crayfish butter (see
Crayfish butter (see and
and red mulletmullet in in fig
fig leaves
leaves and and cooked them them amongamong the the
BUTTER).
BUTTER). cinders.
cinders. No-one
No-one knew knew better
better than
than he he how
how to to harmonise
harmonise aa
AMMAPERDRIX
AMMAPERDRD( -- A A variety
variety ofof the
the European
European partridgepartridge piece of
piece of flesh
flesh and
and an an aromatic.
aromatic. No-one No-one disapproved
disapproved more more
found
found in in Algeria,
Algeria, Egypt,
Egypt, Israel,
Israel, India
India and Persia. It
and Persia. It only
only than
than he he did
did of
of the
the practice of disguising the the flavour
flavour of of aa mea
meatt
differs
differs from
from the
the red-legged
red-legged partridge in in its
its size (it isis smaller)
size (it smaller) or vegetable.
or vegetable. This friend friend of of Theotime even even used used spices
spic€s
and
and inin the absence of
the absence of aa tarsal
tarsal spur.
spur. The
The ammaperdrix
ammaperdrix likes likes sparingly in
sparingly in his
his sauces.
sauces. Where
Where bis his predecessors
predecessors îndiscrimi-
indiscrimi-
hiding in
hiding in rocky
rocky places
places and,
and, like
like the
the French
French partridge,
partridge, feedsfeeds nately
nately mixed
mixed the' the- most
most iIl-assorted
ill-assorted condiments
condiments together, together,
on
on plants
plants resembling
resembling thymethyme and and wild
wild thyme.
thyme. They They are are where
where his his emulators,
emulators, whimsical
whimsical to to excess, lavished
lavished twenty
twenty
sometimes
sometimes found wandering about
found wandering about the
the fields
fields onon the
the Mediter-
Mediter- ingredients
ingredients on on aa single
single dish,
dish, Amphicles
Amphicles confined himself himself to to
ranean coast of
ranean coast of France.
France. AilAll methods
methods of of preparation given given two or
two or three.'
three.'
for
for partridge
partridge (g.v.)
(q.v.) can
can hebe applied
applied toto this
this bird. Our reason
Our reason forfor dwelling
dwelling on on this
this ancient maltre de
ancient maître de cuisine
cuisine
isis sim ply to
simply to remind
remind more more modern
modern practitioners
practitioners of of the
the art
art
AMMOCOETE.
AMMOCOETE. AMMOCÈTE - A fish
errarrlocire-A fish resembling
resembling the
the lamprey,
lamprey, that
that cuIinary
culinary meritmerit does
does notndt necessarily
necessarily lie lie in in the
the extrava-
extrava-
found
found in the mouth
in the mouth ofof the
the Seine.
Seine. gance of
gance of the
the trimmings.
trimmings.
The
The methods
methods of of preparation
preparation given
given forfor eel
eel (q.v.)
(q.v.) and
and
lamprey AMPHITRYON
AMPHITRYON (Host) (tlost) -- Authors
Authors ofof gastronomical
gastronomical books
books
lamprey (q.v.) are
are applicable
applicable to
to this
this fish.
fish.
(such
(such as
as Brillat-Savarin,
Brillat-Savarin, Grimod
Grimod dede lala Reynière,
Reynidre, Berchoux,
Berchoux,
AMMONlA.
AMMONIA. AMMONIAC AMMoNIAc -- A A gaseous
gaseous compound
compound of of nitrogen
nitrogen Monselet
Monselet and and Chavette)
Chavette) andand most
most dictionaries
dictionaries define
define the
the
and
and hydrogen
hydrogen possessingpossessing strong
strong alkaline
alkaline and and caustic
caustic pro- word
word as as 'the
'the one
one with
with whom
whom we we dine'.
dine'. According
According toto Molière:
Molidre:
perties. This
perties. This gas gas affects
affects the
the breathing
breathing and and causes sneezing,
causes "ll",çL.!Jl)';,
watering 'The
'The real
real Amphitryon
Amphitryon
watering of of thethe eyes,
eyes, and
and cougrung.
coughing. Il It isis easily
easily soluble
soluble in Is
water, Is mine
mine ho st with
host with whom
whom 1I dîne.'
dine.'
water, and and then then constitutes liquid ammonia
constitutes liquid ammonia or or volatile
volatile
alkali
alkali (the(the aqueous solution of
aqueous solution of ammonia).
ammonia). A A few
few drops of of itit Ail
All the
the gastronomical
gastronomical writerswriters have
have laid
laid down
down precepts
precepts on
on
are
are recommended
recommended in cases of
in cases of inebriety
inebriety to to induce
induce vomi'tml!.
vomiting. the
the relationships
relationships of of hosts
hosts and
and guests.
guests. The
The most
most famous
famous of of
"",,,'liTJ''U>J.~'''''', these
these works
works isis the
the Manuel
Manuel des arnphitryons by
des amphitryons by Grimod
Grimod de delala
AMMONIA, CARBONATE CARBONATE OF. OF. AMMONIAQUE,
.luttloNIAQUE, CARBONATE
cARBoNATE
Reynière.
D' - A salt that decomposes decomposes under under the
the action
action of of heat
heat into
into Reynidre.
In
ammonia
ammonia and and carbonic
carbonic acid
acid (both gaseous)
gaseous) without
without leaving
leaving In more
more recent
recent times
times Auguste
Auguste Michel
Michel has
has devoted
devoted aawho le
whole
book
book full
full of
of usefuJ
useful hints
hints toto 'the
'the man
man whowho receives
receives at
at his
residue. It
any residue. It is
is used
used in
in certain preparations
preparations under under the
the names
names his
table'
table' concerning
concerning his r6le of
his rôle of host,
host, entitled
entitled Manuel
Manuel des
of baking powder powder or or Alsatian
Alsatian yeast to to render
render non-fermented
non-fermented
nn<mhitrufllH au debut du XX" siècle.
des
dough
dough spongy spongy and and porous.
porous. The gases, in in escaping, occupya
occupy a amphitryons an debut fu X)( siicle.
greater
greater volumev-olume th an the
than the grains
grains of flour,
flour, and and form vacuoles
vacuoles speaking the
Strictly "P'-"""".5, the word amphitryon only
word «rnnhitnJAn only means
means host,
host,
in if and
and applies, and should only only apply, to the pers on who
who enter-
in the dough. These then disappear completely if the heat
thedough. These then disappear completely the heat of
of tains
person enter-
the oyen
the oven is
is sufficiently
sufficiently strong.
strong. someone at
tains someone at rus
his table.
table.
We
We find
find itit difficult
difficult to imagine what
to imagine what aa host
host was
was like
like inin
AMOMUM. AMoME -- Perennial
AMOMUM. AMOME Perennial herb
herb of
of the
the ginger
ginger family
family ancient
ancient times.
times. OneOne of of the
the most
most celebrated
celebrated amphitryons,
amphitryons,

22
22
 ANAEMIA
ANAEMIA

Terracotta amphorae
Terracolla for
amphorae for
oil or
storing oil
storing or wine
wine

Decorated Greek
Decorated Greek amphora
amphora

historical or
historical or legendary,
legendary, was Lucullus. He
was Lucullus. He can
can be
be taken as as aa ground or on
ground on aa specially pierced shelf.
specially constructed pierced
model of
model amphitryons, for
of amphitryons, forhe offered his
he offered his guests trulymagnifi-
guests truly magnifi-
cent feasts.
cent feasts. AMYGDALINE -- Chemical name
AMYGDALINE for the
name for the substance
substance that
Historians have given us
Historians havegiven us accounts
accounts of of the
the lavishness
lavishness ofof makes oil of bitter almonds noxious.
the oil
makes the noxious. Amygdalin is is the
the
Maecenas' table;
Maecenas' table; he, too, is
he, too, is described
described as great master of
as aa great of all substances, cakes or sweets,
term applied to ail sweets, that contain
the art of
the art of entertaining.
entertaining. Heliogabulus
Heliogabulus was was another renowned almonds.
for the
for extraordinary luxury
the extraordinary luxuryof table. Then
his table.
of his Then there were the
there were
three men
three men of of the
the name Apicius in
name Apicius in ancient
ancient RomeRome (see(see ANAEMIA. ANÉMIE
ANAEMIA. llwrtIun -- Anaemia is characterised
characterised by a diminu-
APTCTUS).
APICIUS). tion of
tion of the
the redred corpuscles
corpuscles of the blood. Persons suffering
the blood.
Let us
Let not forget
us not forget Assurbanipal,
Assurbanipal, even even though he belongs to
he belongs anaemia are said to be anaemic.
from anaemia anaemic.
legend rather
legend than to
rather than history. He
to history. was one
He was one of of the
the most Diet for anaemÏcs
anaemics -- Iron being the principal medicine for
ostentatious of
ostentatious of the
the Assyrian kings -- none
Assyrian kings none other than than the anaemic conditions, dieticians introduce
anaemic conditions, introduoe as as many iron-rich
legendary Sardanapalus.
legendary Sardanapalus. foods into
foods into the the dietdiet as possible. These
as possible. These are yolk of
are yolk of egg,
Belshazzar,
Belshazzar, too, must have
too, must have been
been an amphitryon on
an amphitryon grand
on aa grand meat, pig's
meat, blood, etc.
pig's blood, (animal origin);
etc. (animal origin); green
green cabbage,
scale, because
scale, because ev en today,
even today, when describing aa truly
when describing truly magnifi-
magnifi- chicory, oats,
spinach, chicory, oats, lentils, white haricot beans, carrots,
cent banquet,
cent banquet, we still say
we still that itit was'a
say that was 'a veritable
veritable Belshazzar's
Belshazzar's etc. (vegetable
etc. (vegetable origin); also also red wine. It
red wine. is naturally
It is naturally ad-
feast'.
feast'. visable, before following following such a diet, diet, to take into account
'For aa rich
'For rich man,'writes
man,' writes Grimod
Grimod de de la Reynière, 'the
la Reynidre, 'the best the condition of of the digestive
digestive organs, since they are usually usually
rôle in
r6le the world
in the world is is that
that of
of host.'
host.' deficient. This is the reason why, for example, ex ample, pig's blood,
Berchoux, for
Berchoux, his part,
for his says:
part, says: although rich rich in in iron, can can rarely
rarely be used. This
he used. This diet
diet has
'S'il est recently been modified modified following research carried out by an
research carried
'S'il est un
un r6le
rôle noble
noble et
et bien
bien digne
digne d'envie,
d'envie,
C'est American
American scholar, scholar, Dr. Whipple, who
Dr. Whipple, who has has proved
proved both
celui d'un
C'est celui d'un mortel
mortel qui fait en
quifait sa maison,
en sa maison,
Les experimentally
experimentally and in in practice that calfs
practice that calfs liver food that
the food
liver is the
Les honneurs de sa
honneurs de sa table digne amphitryon.'
en digne
table en amphitryon.'
best assures the regeneration of the blood;
of the blood; kidneys, heartshearts
'If
'If there is aa noble
there is noble r6le,
rôle, aa truly
truly enviable
enviable one,
one, and meat also react react well,
weil, but
but less effectively. The efrcacy efficacy of
ItIt isis that
that of
of aa mortal who in
mortal who in his
his house
house does
does preparations
preparations based based on on dehydrated
dehydrated stomach, usually pre-
The
The honours
honours of of his table like
his table true amphitryon.'
like aa true amphitryon.' scribed in pharmaceutical
pharmaceutical form, has has also
also been
been recognised.
recognised.
Barras, Cambac6rds and Talleyrand Whipple's diet consists of a daily ration of 150-250 g.
Barras, Cambacérès and Talleyrand were were distinguished
distinguished (5-9
amphitryons. (5-9 oz.) calf's liver eaten for breakfast breakfast or lunch, a little
amphitryons. Napoleon
Napoleon saidsaid of Cambacérès: 'If
of Cambacerds: 'If you
you wish
wish to
to meat,
meat, fresh
fresh vegetables
vegetables chosen chosen from those rich in iron,
those rich iron, fruit
fruit
eat really
eat weil, go
really well, and visit
go and my arch-chancellor.'
visit my arch-chancellor.' OtherOther tables
tables (peaches,
(peaches, apples, etc.). etc.). Bread, starch products,
Bread, starch products, eggseggs and
were renowned for
were renowned the quality
for the quality of their food,
oftheir food, although
although some,
sorne, sugar
like are restricted;
sugar are restricted; oils and and fats are forbidden
fats are forbidden apartapart from
from aa
that of
like that Mathilde, for
Princess Mathilde,
of Princess for their
their mediocrity.
mediocrity. TheThe little fresh butter;
little fresh skimmed milk
butter; skinmed milk is is generally
generally allowed.
allowed. The The
disappearance of
disappearance of great wealth, the
great wealth, servant problem,
the servant problem, thethe Iiver
habit has preferably
liver has preferably to to be eaten raw,
be eaten especially for
raw, especially for grave
grave
habit of entertaining in
of entertaining in restaurants, have pushed
restaurants, have pu shed amphi-
amphi-
tryonism forms
forms of of pernicious
pernicious anaemia. anaemia.
tryonism to the background.
to the background. But But there are still
there are still houses
houses where
where There
There are are various
various recipesrecipes for the preparation
for the preparation of of raw
raw oror
great pains
great are taken
pains are taken to
to ensure
ensure the bonheur gourmand
the bonheur gourmand of of the
the cooked
guests. cooked liver.liver.
guests.
Raw liver.
Raw liver. Slice
Slice the the liver,
liver, then mince it.
then mince it. The resulting pulp
The resulting pulp
AMPHORA. AMPHORE -- A
AMPHORA. AMpHoRE A terracotta
terracotta vase used in
vase used in ancient
ancient should
should be free from
he free from all all stringy
stringy tissues.
tissues.
times for
t'mes measuring liquids.
for measuring liquids. The capacity of
The capacity of the
the Italic
Italic Serve itit in
Serve sandwiches, or
in sandwiches, mixed with
or mixed with preserves,
preserves, or or with
with
amphora,
amphora, thatthat of
of the
the Romans,
Romans, was 25·89 litres. An
was 25.89litres. An amphora
amphora wann
warm beefbeef tea tea toto form
fonn aa pur6e.
purée.
kept in
kept the Capitol
in the Capitol served as aa standard
served as The Attic
measure. The
standard measure. Attic There is
There even aa recipe
is even recipe for for liver
liver cocktail.
cocktail. Pound
Pound aboutabout
arrphor4
amphora, thatthat of the Greeks,
of the Greeks, waswas aa third
third larger.
larger. Amphorae
Amphorae g. (4
100 g.
100 oz.) lightly
(4 oz.) cooked liver.
lightly cooked liver. Place
Place on on lettuce leaves, and
lettuce leaves, and
were used to
were used store oil,
to store oil, wine,
wine, olives
olives and
and raisins.
raisins. season with
season with saltsalt and pepper. Add
and pepper. Add aa sliceslice of
of raw
raw tomato,
tomato,
The
The amphora
amphora was sessilis or
was sess/r.s or non sessilis according
non se.rsills according to to choppd
chopped parsleyparsley and and aa little
little mustard. Prepare It cup
mustard. Prepare cup tomato
tomato
whether it
whether it stood
stood upright
upright on on its base or
its base terminated in
or terminated in aa sauce, *t cup
sauce, lemon juice,
cup lemon juice, 22 coffeespoons
coffeespoons Worcestershire
Worcestershire
rounded point.
rounded point. In the latter
In the case itit was
latter case was placed
placed in hole in
in aa hole in the
the sauce, t coffeespoon
sauce,1| coffeespoonfinely finely chopped
chopped shallots,
shallots, salt
salt and
and pepper.
pepper.

23
23
ANAGNOST
ANAGNOST

Mix I1 part grated liver to 2l

minced or grated
part of minced 21 pans
parts of this
this
shake and
mixture, shake and chill.
chilI.
Ca/f's liver
Calf's au gratin. Blanch
/iver an Blanch and
and dice
dice 450450 g. (l
(1 lb.) calf's
calf's
liver, and
liver, and place buttered plate. Cover with bread-
place it on aa buttered
sauce and pulped
crumbs, white sauce
crumbs, tomatoes. Season with salt
pulpedtomatoes.
and pepper
and pepper and
and brown
brown inin the oven. A little
the oven. Httle ham
ham and chopped
parsley may be he· added.
added.
balls. Blanch and pound 450 g.
Liver balls. g. (1
(l lb.) liver with
rashers cif
2 rashers Of fat bacon. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
crea m, I1 chopped
cream, onion, 22 eggs (or
chopped onion, the yolks
(or the only), and stale
yolks only),
fresh breadcrumbs until of a consistency to forrn
or fresh fonn into
rather large balls. Bake these in the oven.
rather oven.
cream. Mix i cup pounded
Liver creun.
Liuer I with I1 egg,
poupded liver urith egg, well
weIl
and season with salt and pepper. Thin with milk,
beaten, and
pour into a bain-marie, and place place in the oven until set.
Raw /iver vinaigrette. Cut raw liver into small pieces and
Raw liver
season with vinegar, onion, parsley and chervil.
season chervil.
Preparation of anchovies (after
Preparation of drawing by J Houel)
(afler a drawing HoueI)
ANAGNOSTE - Name given by the Romans to
ANAGNOST. ANAcNosrE-
ANAGNOST.
slave whose job
the slave job it was to read during
during meals.
meals.
The
The custom dates from the time of of the Emperor
Emperor Claudius,
Claudius, stretches almost
stretches almost to the gills.
although nowadays
althougb nowadays itit hardly except in sorne
hardJy exists, except some nunneries The anchovy has
The has long been appreciated as as aa food.
food. It It is
monasteries.
and monasteries. mentioned in
mentioned in the works of
the works Elien and
of Elien and Aristotle,
Aristotle, and and its
Not so
Not there was an anagnoste in each
so long ago, however, there viscera are used
viscera used in the the making
making of garum (q.v.), which
garum (g.v.), which the
of the
of the· French
French educational run by
establishments run
educational establishments by the Greeks and Romans called 'the most precious sauce'.
privileged person. His meals
Church. He was considered a privileged
Church. Anchovies have have a very delicate flavour
very delicate flavour whenwhen fresh, but can
were
were served to him after his corn panions had left the table,
bis companions only be eaten fresh in the countries where
eate,n fresh where they are caught.
and he was usually given aa wider choice and more copious When fried
When they are
fried they tastier than
much tastier
are much than gudgeon or or smelt.
smelt.
portions of food. The post was
food. The much sought after
was much by the
after by The bestbest anchovies
anchovies come from the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast from
pupils. Catalonia, and are very large in that region.
Nice to Catalonia,
Anchovy fillets, prepared
Anchovy prepared at home or industrially, are used
ANALECT. ANALEcTE- Name given to the slave
ANALECT. ANALECTE- dutyy
slave whose dut in many dishes, hot and cold; in pizza, for example. example.
it was to collect the remains of aa Roman meal.
meal. History does Method of of preparatior.
preparation. Cut the head off offand
and clean out the
not relate what happened
happened to these left-overs;
left-overs; they were prob- flesh is
inside.
inside. Wipe the fish without pressing too hard, as the flesh
ably
ably neatened into acceptable
acceptable portions,
portions, artistically
artistically arranged, very delicate.
and
and sold in special markets. (See ARLEQUINS.) and mostmost popular method method of of cooking
Perhaps the
Perhaps the best
best and cooking
ANALEPTIC. lNlr.eprIQUE
ANALEPTIC. ANALEPTIQUE -- Whatever builds up
Whatever builds up and
and fresh anchovies is
fresh anchovies frying them
is frying them in in olive oil. When
olive oil. When they they are
restores
rcstores exhausted
exhausted forces. Tenu
Term applied to light foods which large, aIl all the recipes given for for cooking
cooking fresh fresh sardines (g.v.)(q.v.)
are easy
€asy to quickly produce aa sensation
to digest and which guickly sensation of can
can hebe applied to to anchovies.
anchovies.
well-being. Full-bodied wines,
wines, heef
beef tea, meat jellies, tapioca Anchovy is mostly prepared in brine, and is found found in this
and
and chocolate are aIl
all analeptics.
analeptics. form in aIl
fonn all the markets of Europe. It It can also he be preserved in
oil, or
oil, or pickled.
ANALYSIS. ANALYSE -- Scientific tenn
ANALYSIS. for the
term for the separation Anchovies ài la silésienne.
Ancbovies ANcHoIs À
silesienne. ANCHOIS u SILÉSIENNE
r, LA snfsruNs -- Fillet 6
of the into its
the whole into its component The various consti-
component parts. The consti- fresh
fresh anchovies
anchovies and and leave them to to soak
soak forfor half-an-hour
half-an-hour in
tuents
tueats of food
food have often been
been scientifically
scientifically analysed. white wine.
ANAPHYLAXIS. ANAPHYLAXIE ANApHyLAxE -- Word Word created
created by by Pro- Soak
Soak thethe soft roes of 22 salted
soft roes herring in
salted herring in water,
water, andand rub
rub
fessor C.
fessor C. Richet
Richet to to define the curious
define the curious phenomenon dis- dis- them through aa fine
thern through sieve. Add 2 teaspoons finely
fine sieve. finely chopped
chopped
covered
covered by him: that
by him: that certain
certain poisons
poisons increase rather than
increase rather shallot mixed with
shallot with chopped parsley. Thin
chopped parsley. Thin down
down thisthis purée
pur6e
diminish
diminish thethe sensitiveness
sensitiveness of of an
an organism
organism to their action.
to their with the white wine in which
with which the the anchovies
anchovies were were soaked.
soaked.
A minimal dosedose ofof poison given
given to 1e a4 non-sensitised
nsn-sensitised animal
animal Spread
Spread the mixture in
the mixture in an
an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish, dish, and arrange
and arrange
has nono serious
serious effects, while alarming effects
effects,while effects are
are produced in in the anchovy fillets on
anchovy fillets on it in aa criss-cross
criss-cross pattern. SurroundSurround the the
an animal
animal that hashas previously been given aa non-fatal dose dose ofof fiJlets with aa border
fillets with border of of mixed
mixed salad
salad composed
composed of of boiled
boiled
the
the same
same poison. potatoes and
potatoes and tart tart apples,
apples, cut into small
cut into small dicedice andand weIl
well
This isis especially
This true after
especially true after internaI injeotions. It
internal injections. It also
also Garnish with
seasoned. Garnish
seasoned. with sprigs
sprigs ofof parsley
parsley and and thin
thin slices of
slices of
explains
explains the
thq disorders
disorders that
that occur
occur after
after thethe ingestion of certain
ofcertain lemon
lemon and and beetroot.
beetroot. Just Just before
before serving, with olive
sprinkle with
serving, sprinkle olive
foods.
foods. oil.
oil.
Food
Food anaphylaxis
anephylrxb -- SorneSome people,
people, following
following the the ingestion
ingestion Ancbovy
Anchovy canapés.
canapcs. CANAPÉScer.lApEs AUX ANcHoIs -- Cut
Atx ANCHOIS Cut anchovy
anchovy
of
of certain
certain foods
foods such
such asas bread,
bread, eggs,
eggs, milk,
milk, honey,
honey, chocolate,
chocolate, fillets
fillets in srnall
small pieces
pieces andand arrange
arrange them
them on long slices
on long of bread
slices ofbread
etc.,
etc., are
af€ subject
subject either
either toto skin
skin eruptions,
eruptions, often often ofof the
the nettle-
nettle- which have
which have hadhad the the crusts removed and
crusts removed and been spread with
been spread with aa
rash
rash kind,
kind, or
or to
to aa respiratory
respiratory disorder
disorder akin akin toto asthma,
asthma, or or to
to light coating
light coating of Mattre d'hôte/butter
of Maître d'hdtel butter (see BUTTER). Chop
(see BUTIER). Chop
severe
severe headaches.
headaches. (separately) the
(separately) yolks and
the yolks and whites
whites of of hard-boiledeggs,
hard-boiled eggs, and and
The
The desensitisation
desensitisation treatment
treatmetrt is delicate on~
is aa delicate onp and
and belongs
belongs sorne parsley; arrange
some parsley; little heaps
arrang€ little heaps of of these between the
these between pieces
the pieces
entirély
entirely toto the
the realm
realm ofof medicine. of anchovy.
of anchovy. Garnish
Garnish with with curly
curly parsley.
parsley.

ANCHOVY.
ANCHOVY. ANCHOISANcHoIs -- Small Small sea fish, 15
sea fish, 15 cm.
cm. (6(6 inches)
inches)
long.
long. Its
Its back
back isis aa beautiful
beautiful green
green colour
colour which latpr tu
which latpr ms aa
turns
dark
dark greenish
greenish blue,
blue, thenthen almost
almost black., all of
black, aIl of which'
whict! helps
helps the
the Anchovy
buyer
buyeitoto determine
determine its freshness. It
its freshness. It can
can bedistinguiShed
be distinguished fromfrom
the
the sardine
sardine by
by its projecting snout,
its projecting snout, and
and large
large mouth, which
mouth, which

tierbs and
and spices: lrom lefllo
spices : from left to righl-
right -juniper
juniper berries.
berries, cinnamon,
cinnamon, basil, paprika;aaniseed,
basil, paprika; njseed , cayenne,
cayenne,
ajoujoli, coiander; curry,
ajoujoli, coriander; caraway, raz
curry, caraway, raz el hamour, rosemary;
el IJan/OUl, rosemary; pepper, ginger, fennel,
pepper, ginger, fennel,
pepper;
sweet pepper; celery,
sweet celery,sa frron , c1oves,
saflron, cloves,sage(Hidiard. Phot. Larousse)
sage (Hédiard. Phal. Lorousse)
 ANCHOVY
ANCHOVY

gall-bladders and
gaU-bladders intestinesby
and intestines pressingwith
bypressing withthe thethumb.
thumb. Put Put
the anchoviesininlayers
theanchovies layersinto intoaasmallsmall barrelbarrelwith withsalt saltmixed
mixed
with red
with ochreor
red ochre powderedbrick;
orpowdered brick; the proportionsare
theproportions are66kg. kg.
(12 lb.)salt
(12lb.) salttoto500 500g.g.(1(1lb.) lb.)powdered
powdered brick. brick.The Thelayerslayersofof
anchovies should
anchovies should be be66cm. cm.(2t (2| inches)
inches) thick, thick,each eachlayer layer
separated from
separated from the next by
the next byaa2-cm.2-cm. (i-inch)(f-inch)layer layerofofthe the
mixed salt
mixed saltand brickdust.
and brick dust.
When the
When thebarrel full, put
barrel isisfull, putononthe thelid, lid,which
which must musthave haveaa
hole pierced in
hole pierced inthe
themiddle.
middle. Pour Pour aaconcentrated
concentrated solution solutionofof
sea
seasalt
salt onon the
the anchovies
anchovies throughthrough this thishole.hole.LeaveLeave the thebarrel
barrel
in the
in thesun, with aabrick
sun, with brick overover the
theholeholeinin the thelidolid.TheTheheat heatof of
the sun
the producesfennentation
sun produces fermentation which which preserves
preserves the thefishfishandand
ensures
ensures theirtheirkeeping quality, and
keeping qua!ity, andthe thebrick brickover overthe theholehole
preventsthe
prevents thebrine from evaporating.
brine from evaporating.
When
When the degree of
thedegree offermentation
fermentation isisconsidered consideredsufficient,
sufficient,
Anchovy canapés
Anchovy canap6s
putaacork
remove
remove the brick and
thebrick andput corkininthe thehole holeininthe thelidolid.
Anchovies
Anchovies preserved
preserved in in brine
brine cancan be beused usedas ashors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre
Ancbovy fillets. FILETS
Anchory fillets. D'ANcHors -- Desalt
FTLETs D'ANCHOIS Desalt the the anchovies
anchovies and
and forfor other preparations.
other preparations.
and trim them
and trim them (that(that is,
is, remove
remove bones bones and and skin).
skin). Wipe Wipe these
these RoUed
Rolled ancbovies
anchovies àA laIa Talleyrand.
Talleyrand. PAUPIETTESp,l,uprnrrEsD'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors
fillets with
fiUets with aa c10th
cloth and and cut cut into
into 20r 2 or 33 strips
strips lengthwise.
lengthwise. u TALLEYRAND
ÀA LA rx.lryRAND -- Trim Trim and and flatten
flattenthe thefiUets.
fillets.StutfStuffthemthem
(Canned fillets
(Canned fillets maymay be be used.)
used.) with aa purée
with pur6e made made of pickled tunny
of pickled tunny (tuna (tunafish) fish) mixed
mixed with with
Arrange the
Arrange fillet strips
the fiUet strips decoratively
decoratively in in anan hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre finely chopped
finely chopped truffiestruffies and and bound
bound with with aa tablespoon
tablespoonof of
dish. Garnish
dish. Garnish with with yolks
yolks and and whites
whites of of hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, eggs, mayonnaise.
mayonnaise.
chopped separately,
chopped separately, and and chopped
chopped parsley parsley and and capers.
capers. Arrange
Arrange the the stutfed
stuffed and and roUed anchovies on
rolled anchovies onthick
thickslices
slices of of
Sprinkle the the fiUets with aa few
fillets with few tablespoons
tablespoons of olive oil.
of olive oil. hard-boiled
hard-boiled egg. egg. PutPut them
them on on an hors-d'euvre dish
anhors-d'œuvre dishand andsur- sur-
The arrangement of
The of anchovy
anchovy fiUets porcelain, cut-glass
in porcelain,
fillets in cut-glass round
round themthem with chffinade (q.
with aachiffonade v.) of
(q.v.) of finely
finelyshredded
shredded lettuce.lettuce,
or silver
or silver hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dishes itself to
lends itself
dishes lends to aa variety
variety of of Decorate
Decorate with slices of
with slices of lemon
lemon and and beetroot,
beetroot, and and sprink1e
sprinkle
artistic expression.
artistic expression. Slices Slices of of lemon, quartered lettuce
lemon, quartered lettuce with
with olive
olive oil.
oil.
hearts, sm
hearts, small
ail gherkins cut cut inin various
various shapes, betroot cut
shapes, beetroot cut inin RoUed anchovies ài la
Rolled anchovies la tartare. pAuprETTEs D'ANCHOIS
tartare. PAUPIETTES p'.LNcHors ÀALA r,c,
rounds or crescents,
crescents, etc., etc., can
can also
also be be added
added to to the
the ingredients
ingredients rARrARx -- Trim
TARTARE Trim and and flatten
flatten anchovy
anchovy fillets. fillets. Stuff
Stuff them them
mentioned above. with puree of
with aa purée of grated
grated horseradish
horseradish which which has has been
been kneaded
kneaded
filleb àI la
Anchory fillets
Ancbovy la suédoise.
suedoise. FILETS o'^LNcnors ÀA LA
FTLETS D'ANCHOIS r.L with
with butter.
butter. PutPut the
the roUed
rolled anchovies
anchovies on on rather
rather thick
thickslicesslices of of
suEoolsr -- Arrange the anchovy
SUÉDOISE anchovy fillets,
fillets, prepared
prepared in in the
the usual
usual cooked
cooked beetroot
beetroot (cut (cut with
with fluted
fluted cutters)
cutters) and and arrange
arrange them them
manner, on
manner, on aa foundation
foundation of of salad
salad composed
composed of of tart
tart redred on
on an hors-d'euvre dish.
an hors-d'œuvre dish. Decorate
Decorate with with choppedchopped hard-boiled
hard-boiled
apples and cookedcooked beetroot, cut in small small dice,
dice, seasoned
seasoned with with eggs
eggs and capers, and
and capers, and sprinkle
sprinkle with with olive
olive oil. oil.
oil, vinegar, salt and and pepper. RoUed
Rolled anchovies
anchovies with with bard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs. pAuprErrEs
eggs. PAUPIETTES
Surround tbis
Surround this salad
salad withwith aa garnish
garnish of little bunches
of little bunches of of D'ANcHors AUX
D'ANCHOIS Aux OEUFS
oEUFs DURS DURS -- TrimTrim the the anchovy
anchovy fillets fillets andand
parsley, yolks and
parsie y, yolks and wbites
whites of hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and and cooked
cooked shape
shape themthem into into rolls
rolls (canned
(canned or or bottled
bottled anchovies
anchovies may may be be
all chopped separately
truffies, ail separately and and arranged
arranged in in individual
individual used).
used).
groups. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with aa few few tablespoons
tablespoons of oil. oil. Arrange
Arrange them them in in an hors-d'euvre dish,
an hors-d'œuvre dish, decorate
decorate with with
Anchovy toast.
Anchovy rolsrs AUX
toast. TOASTS ANcHors -- Garnish
Aux ANCHOIS Garnish lightly lightly chopped
chopped hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, eggs, parsley
parsley and capers, and
and capers, and sprinkle
sprinkle
pieces of bread with
toasted pieces with fillets
fillets of of anchovies.
anchovies. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with olive
olive oil.
oil.
them with breadcrumbs which have been fried in in butter, and and Soused
Soused anchovies.
anchovies ANCHOIS umrNfs -- Clean
ANcHors MARINÉS Clean 450 450 g.g. (1(l lb.)
lb.)
brown in the oven oven for aa few minutes. fresh
fresh anchovies.
anchovies. Lay them on
Lay them on aa plate,
plate, sprinkle
sprinkle with with salt,
salt, and
and
Fried anchovies. ANCHOIS .cxcHols FRITSFRrrs -- Clean
Clean and and prepare fresh fresh leave
leave to to souse
souse for for 22 hours.
hours.
anchovies. Dip them in
anchovies. in milk,
milk, drain
drain them,them, and and roll roll them
them in in Dry
Dry the the anchovies,
anchovies, and and fryfry them
them in in smoking
smoking hot hot oil oil just
just
flour, keeping the fish fish separate as as farfar as
as possible. long enough
enough to to stiffen
stiffen them.
them. Drain,
Drain, put put themthem intointo an an earthen-
earthen-
Fry them in very hot fat.
irr very fat. Drain,
Drain, and and sprinkle
sprinkle with with fine,
fine, ware dish,
dish, and
and cover
cover with
with aa marinade
marinade preparedprepared in in the
the follow-
follow-
dry salt. Pile them on aa heated plate and and garnish with fried fried ing manner:
manner:
parsley and lemon quarters. Heat the oil in which the anchovies
the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding were cooked (adding
Medallions of ancbovy
Medalliore anchovy à I la niçoise.
nigoise. MEDAILLONS
MEDATLLoNS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors 55 or
or 66 tablespoons
tablespoons of of fresh
fresh oil).
oil). Fry
Fry aa finelyfinely sliced
sliced medium-
medium-
À u
A NIÇOISE -
LA utgotsn - Spread
Spread slicesslices of crustless
crustless bread
bread with with butter
butter
that has been mixed with thick tomato purée. pur6e. Put aa slice slice of of
hard-boiled egg on each slice,
hard-boiled slice, and
and a roUed
rolled fiUet
fillet of anchovy
egg.
on the egg.
Garnish thesethese medallions with stoned stoned black olives, and
black olives, and
sprinkle with a a little
!ittle chopped parsley. Arrange Arrange them them on on aa
paper doyley, and add a further garnish of of curly
curly parsley.
parsley.
Portuguese anchovy
Portuguese ancbovy fillgts.
fiUets. FILETS
FTLETS D'ANCHOIS poRTUcArsE -
D'ANcHors PORTUGAISE -
Prepare desalted
Prepare desalted anchovies
anchovies in fillets,
fiUets, and cut cut them
them into into thin
thin
Canned fillets may
strips. Canned may be used.
be used.
Prepare aa fondue
fondue of of tomatoes (see (see TOMATO),
TOMATO), cooked cooked
lightly in oil, and
lightly and put it it in
in anhors-d'euvre
an hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Arrange
Arrange the the
fillets in aa criss-cross
fillets pattern on
criss-cross pattern on top top ofof the fondue. Decorate
the fondue. Decorate
capers, chopped
with capers, chopped parsley, slices slices of of peeled
peeled lemon, lemon, and and
sprinkle with
sprinkle with aa few tablespoons
tablespoons of of olive
olive oil.
oil.
Preserved anchovies.
heserved ancbovies. coNsERvE D'ANCHOIS - This
CONSERVE D'ANcHors
- the
This mustmust be be
made with
made with freshly
freshly caughtcaught anchovies.
anchovies. Remove Remove the heads, the
heads, the Medallions
Medallions of anchovy àd la
of anchovy la niçoise
nigoise

25
25

Barquettes andtartlets
Barquettes and tartlets with
witb fruit
fruit fillings (Potel
fillings (Po and Chabot.
tel and Chabot. phot.
Phot. Larousse)
Larousse)
ANCHOYADE

sized onion and aa sliced in the

sliced carrot in oil. Add
the oil. Add 3 unpeeled
unpeeled ANDOUILLETTES (Chitterlings)(Chitterlings) -- Andouillettes are arc pre-
pre-
garlic, 1I dl.
cloves of garlic,
cloyes tablespoons, scant !l cup) vinegar,
(6 tablespoons,
dl. (6 pared like andouilles,
pared andouilles, but smaller intestines are used. There
and 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant tj cup) water. Season
and Season with fine are many varieties, differing for the most part in the spices
salt, and add a sprig of of thyme, 3 sprigs parsley, j bay leaf
parsley, 1- leaf and used
used inin their composition.
composition. SorneSome are made àri la ficelle
are made (old
ficelle (old
1-I teaspoon
teaspoon cru peppercorns.
shed peppercorns.
crushed method); the tripe is cut lengthwise into strips. Others are
for 10
Boil for l0 minutes. Pour
Ppur the mixture,
mixture, still boiling, on the stuffed with diced or minced tripe.
anchovies. Leave to souse
anchovies. souse for 24 hours. gastronomic societies, com-
exclusive of gastronomic
One of the most exclusive
in an
Serve in
Serve an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish garnished
dish garni with slices
shed with slices of prising only five
prising only five branches,
branches, is is the
the Association amicale des
lemon. amateurs d'authentiques
amateurs andouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) -
d'authentiques andouillettes
'Society of loyers
lovers of authentic andouillettes'.
of authentic diploma from
andouillettes'. A diploma
ANCHOYADE
ANCHOY cookery) -- A preparation
(Provengal eookery)
ADE (Provençal preparation based
this society is much sought after.
this after. Its members
members havehave oppor-
oppor-
on anchovy paste.
on paste. Pound
Pound thethe anchovies
anchovies in in aa mortar,
mortar, add
tunities to
tunities to discuss at length
length the comparative merits of the
comparative merits
olive oil and
olive oil and aa few drops of vinegar. Spread
few drops Spread this paste on
this paste
Troyes, Arras,
andouillettes of Troyes, Arras, Cambrai,
Cambrai, Paris, Fleurie in
Paris, Fleurie
of home-made
slices of home-made bread, and sprinkle with finely chopped
Beaujolais, Aubagne, Lourdes, etc.
onion, chopped
onion, chopped hard-boiled
hard-boiled egg, and aa little
egg, and olive oil.
little olive
Andouillettes,like
Andouillettes, andouilles, are
like andouilles, poached and
are sold ready poached
Brown in the oyen.
Brown oven.
Anchoyade àI la niçoise
nigoise -- Add chopped shallot and parsley
All that needs to be done is to slit the skin and
cooled. AlI and grill
Anchoyade
them gently.
to anchovy paste,
to moisten with olive oil,
paste, moisten oil, and
and spread
spread this
It is a mistake to serve fried vegetables with andouillettes.
andouillettes.
fried in oil until
mixture on slices of toast, or bread fried until golden
A.A.A.A.A. has experimented with creamed potatoes,
The A.A.A.A.A.
brown. Sprinkle
brown. with breadcrumbs mixed
Sprinkle with mixed withwith chopped fried onions, raw red
fried red cabbage, creamed
creamed celery, lentils, red
celery, lentils,
parsley and garlic, and
and garlic, and then oil. Brown in
with olive oil.
then with in the beans, vegetables au
beans, au gratin, stewed apples,
gratin, stewed etc., but total
apples, etc.,
oyen.
oven.
agreement has been reached on only one point: andouillettes
agreement
ANCIENNE
ANCIENNE (À (A V)L') -- Name
Name given to to preparations
preparations treated require aa good strong mustard.
according to the precepts of of the old school.
school. These
These dishes
dishes were Andouillettes àI la
AndouiUettes la lyonnaise Slit the
lyonnaise -- Slit the andouillettes and and
garnishes, and braised
usually mixed garnishes, braised beef slowly simmered
simmered cook them in lard or butter. When two-thirds done, add a
characteristic type is Rump of
for a long time. The most characteristic of beef finely previously lightly cooked in
finely chopped onion previously in lard
lard or
àd l'ancienne BEEF).
I'ancienne (see BEEF). butter. Simmer until done. When ready to serve, add a table-
The term also applies
applies to dishes such as pastry shells baked
baked spoon of ofchopped
chopped parsley and and aa tablespoon of ofvinegar.
vinegar.
blind (empty) and
blind and filled with ragoûts
ragofrts of cocks' combs
combs and
kidneys, or
kidneys, or quenelles
quenelles of of truffles
truffies and
and mushrooms.
mushrooms. (For ANDROPOGON (Vlue
ANDROPOGON A genus
(Vlue grass) -- A plant of the
genus of plant
I'ancienne mode see CHICKEN, and for Escalopes
Chicken àd l'ancienne Grarnineae family. Numerous
Gramineae Numerous species
species of it are known, one
are known,
of
of calves' sweetbreads àd l'ancienne OFFAL
l'ancienne see OFF AL or VVARIETY
ARIETY of which is the sugar cane. Several of the plants are used for
MEATS.) infusion. like tea.
infusion,
The term àd l'ancienne
l'ancienne also applies
applies to blanquettes
blanquettes (q.v.) and ANECDOTES (Historig gastronomie
ANECDOTES (Historie, gastronomic and and eulinary)
culinary) -
fricassées (q.v.) oflamb,
fricassies treated in a special
of lamb, veal and chicken treated A convalescent Pompey was was advised by his
advised by his physician that
way. his recovery
bis would be
recovery would hastened by
be hastened following aa diet
by following diet of
thrushes. When his servants
thrushes. servants returned with the news that it
ANDALOUSE (À
ANDALOUSE L) -- N
(A V) preparations
different prepara
ame given to different
Name tions
mainly by
characterised mainly by tomatoes, sweet pimentos
tomatoes, sweet pimentos and was impossible to find any in the height ofof summer
summer except at
Lucullus, the invalid turned to his physician and
of Lucullus,
the home of
chipolata sausages,
sometimes chipolata
sometimes aubergines and
sausages, aubergines rice pilaf.
and rice
(See EGGS, Eggs àd l'andalouse; CHICKEN, Chicken remarked, 'What's this?
remarked, 'What's survival depend
this? Does Pompey's survival
(See EGGS, Eggs I'andalouse; CHICKEN, Chickm àd (Les Classiques de
I'andalouse.)
l'andalouse.) Lucullus is aa glutton?' (Les
upon the fact that Lucullus
la table)
la
ANDOTIILLE -- A
ANDOUILLE A large
large pig filled with strips
pig intestine filled strips of
de Duras,
duc de
Le duc Duras, seeing Descartes
Descartes tucking into aa good
chitterlings and
chitterlings and stomach
stomach of the same animal. These popular
meal one
meal jestingly, 'What
day, remarked jestingly,
one day, ho ! Do
'What ho! Do philo-
sausages are cold, as
are generally served cold, (See
hors-d'euvre. (See
as an hors-d'œuvre.
sophers have aa use for such delicacies?'
delicacies?'
PORK.)
'Why not?'
'Why not?' retorted
retorted Descartes. 'Do you
Descartes. 'Do you imagine
imagine that
Large smoked
L~lfge such as
andouilles such
smoked andouilles as those
those ofof Vire
Vire and Nature simply
Nature produced the good things of the earth sim ply for the
Gu6m6n6 are
Guéméné are sold
sold ready-cooked,
readv-cooked. andand should be served
should be
ignorant?' (Panckoucke)
thinly sliced.
well known that Mme. de Maintenon was extremely
It is weIl
poor
po or at the time ofof her first marriage. One evening while she
evening wbile
was entertaining
was entertaining sorne
some people at at supper and
and had
had nono roast
to offer, her lackey, wittyy fellow of
lackey, a witt of sorne
some spirit, sidled up to
his mistress,
his who was
mistress, who entertaining the
was entertaining the company withwith her
charmingly witt
charmingly wittyy conversation, and whispered, 'Madame,
conversation, and 'Madame,
more story,
one more story, and
and no will notice
no one will notice that you have
that you have no
roast for supper.' (La Beaumelle)
Beaumelle)
The food was
The food very bad
was very at Mme.
bad at d'Aligre's hou
Mme. d'Aligre's house
se and
much discussed.
much 'Really,' remarked M.
discussed. 'RealIy,' M. de 'if
de Lauraguais, 'if
one did not eat one's own bread as weIl neighbour's,
well as one's neighbour's,
would
here one wou Id die of hunger.' (Grimm, Correspondance)
Correspondance)

Admiral Russel invited the officers and

One day AdmiraI and crews of
bis fleet to
his fteet to drink punch with him. HeHe had
had aa marble
marble basin
for the
specially constructed for in the
the occasion in the middle
middle of a
magnificent which he
magnificent garden, into which he ordered to be poured six
(brandy), six hundred bottles of
hundred bottles of Cognac (brandy),
Vire and
Vire and Guéméné andouille (Larousse)
Gu6m6n6 andoujlle rum, twelve
twelve hundred bottles of Malaga, four tons of boiling

26
 ANECDOTES

water, Ihe juice of two

water, the six hundred
two thousand six hundred lemons, six uninspired for a gastronome of his calibre: 'The difference
uninspired
hundred pounds of the best Lisbon sugar and two hundred between Brinvilliers is in their intention.'
between her and la Brinvilliers intention.'
grated nutmegs. A young
grated nutmegs. young man representing Hebe
man representing Hebe rowed
skillful grafting a gardener
By skillful gardener from Montreuil
Montreuil succeeded
sucœeded
round
round the basin in a small
Ihe basin small mahogany boat, filling
mahogany boat, filling the
Ihe cups of in propagating
propagating a most exquisite variety variety ofof peach.
peach. He desired
desired
more than six thousand
more thousand drinkers seated in an
drinkers seated amphitheatre of
an amphitheatre
10 present the fruit
to fruit in homage to 10 Louis XVIII,
XVIII, but beforebefore
benches round the basin. (Ivrogniana)
benches
exposing himself to to a test upon which
a test which hisrus reputation so 50
Heliogabalus used to entertain
Heliogabalus used entertain his meals of
parasites to meals
rus parasites much depended, he
much depended, decided to
he decided to visit
visit M.P.R.
M.P.R. The The latter,
grass, and was wont
wonl to cover rus table with embroidered or
coyer his stretched out
stretched ouI inin hishis armchair,
armchair, legs crossed and
legs crossed and hands
hands
upou which
tapestry tablecloths upon wruch were worked all the dishes
worked ail c1asped, prepared himself
clasped, himself in gentle con templation to deliver
gen tle contemplation
that ought toto have appeared at
have appeared al the courses. At
the different courses. the important
important yerdict
verdict that waswas expected of ofrum. The gardener
him. The
other times he tantalised their
other times gaze with paintings
Iheir gaze paintings of
of various
various requested a
requested a plate
piate with a silver knife.
a silver knife. He cutcut thethe precious
foods, seemingly offering thern everytrung they could wish
them everything peach in quarters,
quarters. speared one of of these with the point of of the
hungry. (Lampride)
for, yet leaving them ravenously hungry. knife and gravely pushed
knife and pushed it it into
into M.P.R.'s mouth, saying, saying,
'Taste the juice!'
juice!' His eyes closed, M.P.R.
eyes closed, tasled the juice
M .P. R. tasted juice
M. le pr6sident
président B. gave a regular weekly dinner; splendid
without uttering a a word. The observed him,
The gardener observdd him, his
table, fine wines, archbishop, and wit
wines, cuisine worthy of an archbishop,
eyes clouded with anxiety. After an interval of of two or three
worthy of a member of l'AcadCmie française 'of the forty-
l'Académie frangaise'of fort y- minutes,
minutes. those of ms mentor
of his opened. 'Good, very good,
mentor opened. good, my
first chair'. An old and faithful servant servant was put in chargecharge of
friend,' were the
friend,' were the only words he
only words he had time to
had time to utter.
utter. Im-
the cellar,
cellar, and was was also
also commissioned 1O to offer the various mediately, the quarter was
second quarter advanced like the first,
the second was advanced first.
wines to the guests. He acquitted himself himself of this task with a
and the gardener, in a
and the a firmer, more confident tone,
more confident tone, com-
discreet and dignifieddignified air, though intonations
intonations of of an amorous
'Taste the flesh'. There followod
manded, 'Tagte followed the sa same
me silence,
tabby-cat crept into his voice each
tabby-cat each time he he announced the Ihe
the same gravity on the part of the learned gourmet. gourmet. This
gravit y on
na me and
name and the patent of nobility of these great wines
the patent -
wines - the
time the movement of his mouth was more pronounced, pronounced, for for
glory of France. He announced with particular fervour a
glory
chewing. At last he uodded
wa~ chewing.
he was nodded rus 'Ah, very good,
his head. 'Ah,
certain
cerlain vin vin de fond.
fond. When he said 'Vin de fond' he
he said he gave the of
very good!' You You are are going to think think that the superiority of
impression that that he rolling it around
was roHing
he was around in his mouth, so
in his judged and that no more remained to be
the peach had been beenjudged
that even the least enthusiastic of the gourmets
that gounnets allowed his rus
said? Not at all! The third slioe followed
tmrd slice followed in itsils turn. 'Savour
tum. 'Savouf
fiIled. However, this
glass to be filled. trus wine, brilliantly presented,
wine, so brilliantly presented,
aroma!'continued
the aroma!' continued the the gardener. The aroma was found found
little pleasure
gave little those who tasted it.
pleasure to Ihose they pulled
il. As a rule Ihey
to
to be worthy of
be worthy of the juice
juice andand the
the flesh.
ftesh. Whereupon
Whereupon the
wry faces
faces while drinking vdn vin de fond.
fond. himself up to his
gardener drew rumself
gardener rus full height to present
present the last
'Tell me, what is r,s this vin de fond?' Mme. la pr6sidente
this vrn présidente B. quarter. His
quarter. His face, flushed, glowed
face, slightly flushed, with pride and
g10wed with
asked her
asked her sommelier
sommelier one one day. 'Is there
day. 'Is there much
much of it it in
in the
satisfaction: 'Taste the whole!' His triumph was complete.
satisfaction:
cellar?'
cellarT
M.P.R.
M.P. tasled it,
R. tasted and carne
it, and towards him
came towards him moist-eyed and and
'Madame,' replied replied thethe servant withwith an of mystery,
air of
an air
hand effusively. 'Ah, my friend, it is
friend, it
smiling. He grasped his his hand
'there is enough
enough to last for ever.'
perfect! 1
perfeet! I offer you my heartfelt compliments.'
compliments.'
'Ah!'said
'Ah!' still looking perplexed.
sa id Mme. de B., stilllooking
'It isis quite
'It quite simple,' continued the
simple,' continued sommelier. '!
the sommelier. 'I make itit Fontenelle dined night at one of
dined each mght of a number of elegant
myself
rnyself from the dregs of Ihe bottles. It is quite good enough
the boules. hou ses, aa fact
houses, that caused Piron to
fact Ihat remark upon
to remark upon seeing the
for people who are prepared prepared to drink without knowing knowing what doyen of
doyen of the Académie passing
the AcadCmie his window
passing his window one day ac-
one day
they are drinking and who cannot tell the difference difference between companied by rus retinue: 'That is the first time 1I have seen
his retinue:
Bordeaux-Lafite.'
a Clos-Vougeot and a Bordeaux-Lafite.' M. de Fontenelle leave home without intending out!'
intending to dine out!'
From that day onwards the the vin
vm defonddisappeared
de fond disappeared from
Artaxerxes, king of Persia, having been defeated in baille,
battle,
the table ofM.Ieof M. le pr6sident
président B. (1.(J. Richard,
Richard,,l'Epoque)
l'Époque) during the
was constrained to eat dried figs and barley bread durillg
history was
the most voracious appetite in hislory
The man with the retreat. He found
round this fare excellent.
this rough fare 'O ye
excellent. '0 ye gods,' he
the Emperor Maximin,
the Emperor Maxiinin, successor of Alexander
successor of Alexander Severus 'what pleasure 1I have denied myself
exclaimed, 'what myself up to now by
Aurelius). He went to
(Marcus AureIius). to the
the extent of consuming (at tastes!'
over-fastidious in my tas
being over-fastidious tes !'
fortyY pounds of meal
meal) fort
an ordinary meal)
an and an
meat and an amphora of
Montmaurwas
Montmaur was eating daywith
eating one day noisycompany
with a large, noisy company
wine; that isis to say. aocording to sorne,
say, according twenty-eight French
some, twenty-eight
singing friends.
and singillg
of coughing and friends. 'Hey there, gentlemen!' he
there, gelltlemen!'
pints; according to otlers, thirty-six. (Encyclopédie
to others, (EncyclopCdie métho-
mCtho-
dique)
called out,
called 'A lillie
out, 'A little silence, pray, eise
silence, pray, how are
else how are we to know
we to
(Menagiana)
what we are eating.' (Menagiana)
NOIe.
Note. A pint in in Paris litre.
0'93 of aa litre.
Paris was 0·93
landlord of aa village inn had
The landlord
The honour of serving
the honour
had the serving immediately felt ill ifwild
Marshal Albert immediately if wild boar or suc
sucking
king
George
George II II with
with anan egg
egg onon an
an occasion
occasion thalthat he
he broke
broke his
rus pig appeared on the
the table.
journey there,
joumey there, and in payment.
guinea in
and asked one guinea Erasmus had
Erasmus only to
had only to sme]] to become feverish.
fish to
smell fish
His Majesty smilingly
His smilingly remarked: When anyone placed apples llear
anyone placed near Duchesne,
Duchesne, secretary
secretary to
'It seems
'It seems eggs areare rather scarce
scaroe hereabouts.' François I, blood
Frangois 1, blood poured from
from his
his nose.
'Oh no,
'Oh no, sire,' replied the
sire,' replied the innkeeper, 'not the eggs -- the
'not the the
According to to Furetière,
Furetidre, inin the
the chapter devoted
devoted toto large
kings.' appetites:
appeliles:
Oh, happy
Oh, happy and and un
unhappy cooks! A
happy cooks! A mosl factious and
most faclious and '1'I have seen
seen one man eateat aa loin of veal, a capon,
capon, aa brace ofof
detestable
detestable race, according toto Hegesender. woodcock and mountain of bread
and aa mountain bread without any help.
any help.
The Athenian
The Athenian government gavegave the freedom city 10
freedom of the city to 'The ballet
'The ballet dancer Aglais, who
dancer Aglaïs, who lived two hundred
lived two hundred or or so
so
certain Cherips
aa certain invented an excellent
Cherips because his father had Învented Christ, was
years before Christ, supper she
was so greedy that for supper would
she would
trufred ragoût.
truffled ragofit. eat ten pounds of meat,
eat ten and aa dozen
meat, and doze'n loaves of bread, and
bread, and
Anthony, weil
well pleased wilh town to
with aa dinner, presented aa town to drink thethe equivalent six pints of wille.
equivalent of six wine.
his cook.
his Claudius Albinus one day
'The Emperor Claudius day ate five
ate for lunch five
President Henaultmade
President Henault made the following remark about Mme. Mme. hundred figs,
hundred figs, aa hundred
hundred peaches,
peaches, ten melons, aa hundred
ten melons,
du Deffand's cook
du cook whose cuisine was far too
was far too unrefined and
and forty-eight oysters
beccaficchi, forty-eight oysters and gapes.
and many grapes.

27
ANETHOLE

'The athlete Milon

'The Milon of Crotonia ate
ofCrotonia ate a whole ox after having 'Oh
'Oh Madame,'
Madame,' said 'all I1 wanted
said Renan, 'ail was a
wanted was a second
carried it for a considerable length of of time on his shoulders.
shoulders. helping of peas.'
'The
'The Emperor Maximin became became so so fat
fat through
through over-
eating that hehe used his wife's bracelets as rings.
wife's bracelets
ANETHOLE. .lxErnor -
ANÉTHOL - Compound of a a hydro-carbon
hydro-carbon
(resembling oiloil of turpentine) and a a certain crystallisable
certain crystallisable
'An
'An actor
actor by the name
by the name of ale, in the presence of
Phagon ate,
ofPhagon of the
Emperor Aurelius: a wild boar, a
Emperor Aurelius: a sheep, a hundred round substance possessing a strong aniselike
substance anise-like odour.
odour.
The essences ofof anise, fennel, Chinese anise and
and tarragon
tarragon
loaves of
loaves of bread, washed it down
bread, and a sucking pig. He washed down with
are mainly formed of of anethole.
twenty-four
twenty-four measures of of wine.' (Les Classiques de la table)
table)
It is used for flavouring sweets, sweet dishes, and various
A FEW GOURMANDS.
A FEW GOURMANDS. euEleurs
QUELQUES cotrnrra,qwDs
GOURMANDS- - liqueurs.
liqueurs.
Louis xm -- He was excellent
Louis XIII at preparing eggs and
excellent at and did so
ANETHUM. ANETH -
ANETHlJM. ANETTI - See FENNEL.
in
in a variety
variety of
of ways: perdus, poached in black butter, hard-
ways: perdus, hard-
boiled
boiled and chopped up up with bacon
bacon (one ofof his
his inventions),
inventions), ANGEL CAKE -- See CAKE.
etc. He also
etc. also larded loins of
larded loins of beef magnificently,
magnificently, using
using his
his
ANGEL
ANGEL FISHFISH (Squatina squatina).
squatina). ANGE DE MER -- A kind of
DE uEn
own vermeil larding
own vermeil larding needle.
needle.
Mme.
Mme. de Maintenon
Maintenon - She was adept at preparing
She was preparing dainty
dog fish, with
dog fish, with a a large, flattened
flattened body; the pectoral
body; the pectoral and
ventral
ventral fins
fins seeming toto continue
continue the lateral of the body in
line of
lateralline
dishes for
dishes for the king (still
the king of good appetite despite
(still of his advanc-
despite his
ing years). Her
ing years). Her particular
particular speciality
speciality was
was dressed
dressed cutlets
all
aU its thickness. The tail is big rounded, while
big and rounded, while the back
is covered with a rough brownish-green skin marked with
seasoned with
seasoned with parsley,
parsley, which wrapped in buttered
she wrapped
whir,h she buttered paper
paper
small whitish and grey spots. The belly is
whitish and is whitish. Angel
Angel fish
and grilled. In other
and other words
words cutlets en en papillote.
Mne. de Conti- She She invented the method of
invented the preparing loin
ofpreparing
is
is the
the intermediary type family of
between the family
type between of sharks
sharks
and that of of ray
ray and skates. On the French coasts, where it
of mutton
of mutton that bears her
that bears name, while
her name, while Mme.
Mme. de de S6vign6
Sévigné had
had a
fishermen call this fish angelot or angel.
abounds, the fishermen ange/.
talent for
talent for preparing
preparing waffies.
waffies.
The flesh of the angel fish is quite
of the quite delicate and recalls that
and recalls
Louis XV-
I.oub He loved
XV - He loved to
to make his own
make his own coffee, and invented
coffee, and invented
omelette of
an omelette
an of asparagus tipstips for Mme.
Mme. du du Barry.
of the ray. All
Ali methods of preparation given for the latter
are applicable
applicable to angel fish.
Louis XYI
Louis XVI -- Like his grandfather,
grandfather, LouisLouis XlV, he had had the
the
sort of
sort appetite nothing
of appetite nothing could
cou Id upset;
upset; the
the very
very evening
evening
before
before the opening of
the opening his trial
ofhis trial he ate six
he ate cutlets, aa chicken and
six cutlets, and
several
several eggs.
Balzac Even ifif he
Balzac (Honor6 de) -- Even he did
did not
not always eat hishis fill
fil!
(because
(because hehe happened to be working)
to be working) Balzac
Balzac had by by nature
nature
an
an astonishing capacity of
astonishing capacity of absorption. And And thethe menu
menu he he
orderd
ordered forfor himself alone at
himself alone at Very's one day
Very's one was not
day was not excep-
excep-
tional:
tional:
Hors-d'euvre
Hors-d'œuvre
Angelica
Angelica
Eight
Eight dozen
dozen Ostend
Ostend oysters
oysters
Twelve pri-sali
Twelve pré-salé mutton
mutton cutlets au naturel
cutlets au naturel
AA duckling
duckling withwith turnips
turnips
A brace of roast partridges
"0fi-:Tff:f[To*'
A Normandy sole
Sweet
Sweet
Fruit
Fruit
Coffee and
Coffee and liqueurs
liqueurs
ANGELICA. ANGÉLIQUE -- A
ANGELICA. ANGELrer.rE of plants
A genus of plants of the family
of the
Whereupon he
Whereupon slept for
he slept for two hours, drank
two hours, drank some sorne coffee
coffee Umbelliferae, of
of which the prototype is
which the i~ generally known
known
and worked
and worked the the whole night until
whole night seven or
until seven eight o'clock
or eight o'clock in in under name of angelica, angelic herb. It is
under the common name is a
the morning.
the morning. large perennial
large perennial herb usuaJly grown
herb usually biennial. In
grown as aa biennial. appear-
In appear-
Victor
Victor Hugo
Hugo -- The The great
great poet was areal
poet was a real guzzler,
guzzler, especially
especially ance itit closely
ance resembles cow
closely resembles cow parsley.
parsley.
late in life:
Jate in life: hehe not
not only
only ate cutlet, but
ate aa cutlet, but the
the bone
bone as as well,
well, Angelico archangelica grows
Angelica grows wildwild inin the Alps, in
the Alps. in the
the
rn,nrhlrlO" it
crunching it loudly between his
loudly between powerful jaws. Sometimes,
his powerful Sometimes, Pyrenees and
Pyrenees and inin northern Europe. It
northern Europe. has long
It has long been
been valued
valued asas
to amuse his grandchildren
to amuse grandchildren after meal, he would
after aa meal, would have have allail aa stomachic,
stomachic, carminative
carminative and and anti-spasmodic
anti-spasmodic stimulant.
stimulant. To-
the left-overs
the brought in:
left-overs brought in: ragofit, fish, vegetables
ragoût, fish, vegetables and and dessert.
dessert. day itit isis cultivated
day mostly for
cultivated mostly for the
the sake
sake ofofits roots and
its roots and stalks.
stalks.
These
These he he put
put with seasoning into
with seasoning into aa large salad bowl
large salad bowl and and ate,
ate, The
The fresh fresh stalks, candied in sugar,
stalks, candied make aa pleasant
sugar, make pleasant pre-
pre-
sharing
sharing the dish with
the dish with the
the enraptured children. He
enraptured children. He called
called the
the called Niort
serve called
serve angelica, or
Niort angelica, or Nevers
Nevers angelica,
angelica, or or Chdteau-
Château-
concoction 'daubs'.
concoction 'daubs'. briand angelica. It
briand It is used by
is used confectioners and
by confectioners and wine
wine and
and
Lamartine-
Lamartine - A A thin
thin man
man who who only liked ice cream. spirit
spirit merchants.
me:rcl1arlts.
Stendhal -- A
Stendhal A fat man with
fat man with aa penchant for for macaroni.
macaroni. The roots,
The roots, which
which come come principally
principally fromfrom Bohemia,
Bohemia, are are
Theophite Gautier -- A
Théophile Gautier delicate palate
A delicate palate who
who did did notnot allow
allow wrinkled, grey outside
wrinkled, outside and and white
white inside.
inside. They
They are
are deceptive
deceptive
himself to
himself to be deceived. It
he deceived. It was
was hehe who,
who, atat the Russian court,
the Russian court, to the palate: sweet
to the sweet at first, producing
at first, producing an an acrid
acrid and
and bitter
bitter
observed to
observed to the
the chef
chefthat
thc:.t his
his almond gâteau (which
almond gflteau (which everyone
p\lf'n"... np after-taste.
after-taste.
else adored)
else adored) was was nothing
nothing more more nor less than
nor less than pounded The
The roots also contain
roots also volatile oil,
contain aa volatile oil, angelicine,
angelicine, angelic
angelic
macaroons.
macaroons. acid, tannin,
acid, tannin, malic acid, pectic
malic acid, pectic acid,
acid, the
the malates,
malates, etc.
etc. They
They
7frlr-
Zola - He He had fondness for
had aa fondness for shellfish
shellfish although
although he he called
called possess very very strong
strong digestive
digestive and and anti-dyspeptic
an'ti-clvsnelltic properties.
nr()nprtll'<:

thern'filth'.
them 'filth'. It isis for
for this reason that
this reason that they
they are used in the production of
are used
Rman
Renan -- Invited
Invited one one dayday to to aa house where the
house where the hostess
hostess cordials and
meliss cordials
meliss and other
other liqueurs
liqueurs such
su ch asas chartreuse,
chartreuse,
desired that
desired that each guest in
each guest in turn
turn should contribute to
should contribute to the
the vespetro, gin gin and
and English
English bitters.
bitters.
conversation,
conversation, Renan persistently tried
Renan persistently tried to intervene during
to intervene during Angelica liqueur.liqueur. LreuEUR ANGÉLIQUE -- Put
LIQUEUR lNo6r.reue Put I1 kg.
kg. (2*
(2! lb.)
lb.)
the course of
the course of the meal. At
the meal. At last
last the mistress of
the mistress of the
the house
house angelica stalks, cut into
stalks, cut small pieces, and
into small and I1 litre
litre (lf,
(11 pints,
pints,
turned
turned to to him
him and said, 'Now,
and said, 'Now, Master
Master Renan,
Renan, it'sit's your
your turn.'
turn.' generous quart)
generous brandy, in
quart) brandy, in aa bottling jar. Macerate for
jar. Macerate for aa

28
28
 ANGLET

monlh. See that the jar

month. hermetically sealed. Expose it
1S hermetically
jar is il to pepper
pepper before being put
before being under a grill.
put under grill. It
lt must bebe cooked on a
whenever possible.
the sun whenever low flame.
t'lame.
Add from 600 to 10 800 g. (1* to l* lb.) lump sugar dissolved
lump sugar When
When fish fiesh is being grilled,
fish with a delicate flesh grilled. such
such asas
in
ln very little
!iUle water.
waler. Press the wholewhole through a silk or fine whiting, fresh elc., it should be
fresh sliced cod, etc., dusted with flour
be dusted t'lour
muslin sieve. Leave to ta stand for a few hours. lhen filter
hours, then filler the and sprinkled with
and sprinkled butter or
melted butter
with melted or oil
oil before pUlling it
before putting it
liqueur through soft paper. under thethe grill.
grill.
Decant into boules, cork and seal.
ioto bottles, Grilled fish d
Gri/led fish l'anglaise is
à I'anglaise siroply with
served simply
is served with melted
angclica. lNcfrrqun
Candied angelica.
Candied CONfJTE -- Cut the angelica
ANGÉLIQUE coNFrrE angelica butter or Maite
MaÎtre d'hitel
d'hôtel butter
bUller (see BUTTER) and (option-
(see BUTTER)
stalks into
stalks înto 15-
15- to 20-cm. (6- to
ta 20-cm. pieces and soak in cold
10 8-inch) pieces ally) potatoes,
pota loes, either steamed or boiled.
boiJed.
water.
Plunge them into a pan of boiling water unti) the pulp
water until AI\GLAISE (Custard) - Variously flavoured custard made
begins to give slightly when pressed with the fingers. fingers, Cool of yolks of egg, sugar and milk (see CREAM, Custard cream).
under a cold tap, tap. drain and peel, taking care to remove aIl all
ANGLER (U.S.
ANGLER (V.S. AI\GLERFISID.
ANGLERFISH). LorrE LOTTE DE MER, BAUDROŒ-
VIER, BAUDRoIE -
stringy parts.
stringy parIs.
This fish is extremely ugly. Its foreparts are very broad while
are very
Macerale in a syrup of 1
Macerate sugar to
I cup sugar la I1 cup water for fot 24
hind-quaners are exceedingly narrow. ILs
its hind-quarters Its head, which is
hours.
c enormous, is very flat fiat and spiky. Along its ilS back it has three
Drain, Boil the syrup to
Drain. (215'F.)
102'C. (215
Lü 102°C. F.) and pour it il over
mobile filaments. The first and largest
very mobile largest ends in a sort of
the pieces ofof angelica.
angelîca.
flail, shaped like
flail, shaped like aa spearhead,
spearhead, which can lash
wh.ich can !ash outout in all
in ail
operation three days running. On the fourth
Repeat this operation
directions. It
directions. Il is believed that thal the angler uses this as bait to
trus as
day cook the syrup to i.e. 105"C. (221"F.). Put
small. pearl, i.e.
10 small
attract i ts prey.
a ttract its
angelica into this it to
bring il
syrup and bring
lhis syrup la the boil several times.
skjn of
The skin or the angler is olive brown along the back and
Remove the pan from the fire and let it stand. stand.
grey on the belly. It is flabbyt'labby and sticky entirely without
stick y and entirely
Drain the
the pieces of angelica
angelica on sieve. Lay
on aa sieve. Lay them
them on a
covered with bony
Instead itil is covercd
scales. Instead
scales. bouy filaments similarsimilar to the
marble sprinkle with fine sugar and put
marb!e slab, sprinkle them to dry in a
pullhem
spikes on its head.
oven. Store in tins.
very slow aven.
The angler is used mainly
The angler mainly as an ingredient
ingredient of bouillabaisse
of bouillabaisse
Niort angelica ili la ANcELIeUE oE
la sybarite. ANGÉLIQUE DE Ntonr
N10RT À re
A LA (q.v.) it can be cooked in the same
(q. v.) and other fish nsh soups, but bu! il
syBARrrE -
SYBARITE ready a
- Have ready dozen or
a dozen so best
or so quality butter
best quality
way as cod or other large sea fish.
brioches.(kept hol), a fruit dish
brioches (kept hot), dish filled with sticks of candied
ftlled Wilh
In
ln whatever
whatever manner manner it it is
is prepared,
prepared, angler should should be
bOUle of
angelica, a bottle angelica cream, aacarafe
of angeljea of iced water, a
carafe of
rather highly seasoned, sinec since it is aa somewhat tasteless.fish.
tasteLessfish.
packet of Egyptian cigarettes.
rlOl'lrl'III'C;:
In the
the U.S.A. the the anglerfish, while whi1e plentiful,
plentîful, is not widely
îs not
Light
Lighl a cîgarelte,
cigarette, sip aa mouthful of îced iced water, crunch a
in the
marketed. White
marketed. White fish flilets or
tîsh fillets can be
steaks can
or steaks be used
used in
of Niort angelica
piece of angelica with a piping hot bite of brioche, sip,
following recipes.
savour a few drops ofangelica liqueur, and then
breathe and savour
Angler ià I'anglaise.
Angler LorrE DE
l'anglaise. LOTTE MER À
DE MER t'lNcr.ltse - FiJlet
A L'ANGLAISE Fillet
repeat the whole process.
proccss.
a medium-sized raw angler, angler, and trim trÎm the fillets. Flatten them
fl1!ets. Flatten
If, according to A Austin
ustin de de Croze,
Croze, toto whom
whom we this
we owe [rus
and season with salt and pepper. Dip them in egg and bread-
recipe, the room is
the room is sprayed with with aa fresh,
fresh, light perfume
crumbs and fry Ihem
crumbs them in butter, browning on both sides. Serve Serve
(verbena oror southernwood) one one can
can have
have an of the
an idea of on aa long dish, covering the
on the fish with Maitre d'hô/el dhdtel buller
butter
sybaritism.
blessed joys of sybaritism.
blessed
(see BUTTER).
ANGELS ON HORSEBACK (English cookery).
ANGELS ON A
ANGES À
ANGES Boild algler with various sauces. LorrE
Boiled BOUlLLlE--
LonE DE MER BoITILLIE
hors-d'euvre is prepared in the following
cHEvAL -- This hot hors-d'œuvre
CHEvAL Skin the angler and cut it into thick steaks. Cook in aa courl- court-
manner. Take plump oysters out of their shells, drain their bouillon (q.v.) as as for Boiled
Boi/ed cod (see (see COD). Serve with with any
liquor aod remove their beards.
and remove beards, and wrap each one în in aa very
very sauce suitable for boiled fish.
sauce nsh.
thin rasher
thin rasher of bacon.
bacon. Thread them on metal skewers,
on little metal Cold angler pâté.pflt6. rAre
r TÉ FROID
FRorD DE LOTTELorrn DE MER -- Proceed as
season
season with salt and of
fingers of
and pepper, and grill. Arrange on fingers for Cold eel pie (see EEL).
for
toast. Fillets of angler braised in in white winc. nrsrs DE
wine. FILETS Lorrr DE
DE LOTTE
Just before
Just before serving, with breadcrumbs which
sprinkle with
serving, sprinkle Mnn BRAISÉS
MER sRArs6s AU AU vrN BLANC -
VIN BLANC Trim and
- TrÎm and flatten
fiatten thethe fillets.
fried in butter.
have been fried Season with salt and pepper. pepper. Lay them in a buttered baking baking
tin and
tin and moÎsten
moisten withwith Fish fumel (sec
FÎsh fumet (see FUMET) with with white
AI\GLAISE -- In
ANGLAISE In cookery, the
the term anglaise is applied toto aa wine. Cook in aa moderate oven.
mixture composed
mixture composed of of eggs, oil Ci
eggs, oi! $ teaspoon per egg),
teaspoon per egg), salt Drain the
Drain fillets. Serve on
the flUets. long dish
on aa long with aa white
dish wîth white wine
and.pepper.
and .pepper. made from
sauce made
sauce from [he cooking stock
the cooking SAUCE, White
(see SAUCE,
stock (see White
Various ingredients which
Various which have
have toto be dipped in
be dipped in bread-
bread- sauces).
crumbs are first coated with this mixture,
mixture, and are
are said to be Fried angler. LonELorrE DE fillets of angler
FRIrE -- Cut the flUets
DE MER fRITE
'd l'anglaise'.
'à I'anglaise'. They are then
then sautécd in butter or oil, or deep-
sautOed in deep- into strips.
inro strips. Dip Ihemthem inin milk.
milk, flour lightly,
lightly, and
and dcep-fry in
deep-fry in
fried. boiling faLfat.
Drain andand season.
season. Serve
Serve onon aa napkin,
napkin, garnished
garnished withwith
ANGLAISE CA
ANGLAISE (A L') -- Name
Name givengiven to to viJrious preparations
various preparations
frîed parsley and
fried parsley and Icmon.
lemon.
cooked in
usually cooked in water (see
(see MUTTON, Leg mutton) or
Zeg of mullon) or
Hot al1gJer pflt6. P,\TÉ
angler pâté. nArE CHAUD
cHAUD DE Lorrn DE MER -- This pie is
DE LOTTE is
in white stock (see
in (see CHICKEN, English boiled chicken).
English boi/ed
made fromfrom fillets
fillets of angler, with pike or or whiting sluffing, in
stuffing, in
term'also applies to the following fish: fish poached in
This lermalso
the same
the same way as Hot eel pie (see
as HOl (see EEL).
court-bouillon (q.v.);; fish grilled or
fish grilled or fried in in breadcrumbs; LorrE DE MER -- CU!
Cut the
Matelot of angler.
angler. MATELOTE
MATELoTE DEDE LOTTE DE MER the
potatoes, boiled in
vegetables, mainly potatoes, in water oror steamed (sec(see
fillets of angler
fillelS angler into squares. them en malelote
squares. Cook them white
matelote in white
POTATOES, POlafOeS Potatoes lid '·anglaise).
l'anglaise).
EEL).
red wine, as
or red for Eel en
as for matelote (see
en male/ole (see EEL).
Grilled ffsh ài l'anglaise.
Gdlld f:ls.b porssoxs GRILLÉS
I'anglaise. POISSONS l'lNcl,tIsr --
cnn-rfs fAA L'ANGLAISE
This method can
This can be applied to
be applied to ail
all fish.
fish. The
The large fish
fish are cut
are CUI AI\GLET -- Town
ANGLET Town sÎtualed km. (2* miles}
situated 44 km. from Bayonne,
miles) from Bayonne,
into slices or steaks,
slices or steaks, thethe 5ma)]
small ones
ones are cooked whole, after
are cooked after sea. A famous
near the sea. famous white wine is is produced here, dry and
here, dry and
having aa few
having few slits
slits cut in them.
cut in them. The The osh,
fish, whole or or sliced,
sliced, is
is heady, which is is called Vin de
called Vin de sable.
sable.
coated with oîl oil or
or melted butter and
melted butter and seasoned with salt
seasoned with salt and
and Rock salt
Rock salt also cornes from Anglet.
comes from

29
29
ANGoULEnan
ANGOULËME

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~TTOU
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ii.xr=;*N=
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ial
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l"ii,"g",.ut"r,
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GUYENNE
11,
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Gastronomic map
Gastronomie of Angoumois,
map of Angoumois, Aunis and Saintonge

ANGOULtME -- A
.I,I,IGOULEME A town
town in
in the
the Charente where
where famous w:rth cCpes
with sautéed d
cèpes sautded à la bordelaise; gigorit or lamb's pluck;
brandies are
brandies distilled. A
are distilled. notOO partridge
A noted partridge pdtd
piité is
is made
made at stuffed cabbage calldfarie;
stuffed cabbage calledJarée; a selection of variouspdtis
selection ofvarious pâtés such
Angoul6me
Angoulême. as pdti
as Joie gras
paté de foie gras truffé of tufi
of Barbezieux andand Angoul€me,
Angoulême,
LNCOUVIOIS This area is situated between partridge pâté of Ruffec,
partridge pdtd pâtés of Exideuil. Sausages,
Ruffec, lark pdtds Sausages,
ANGOUMOIS - This between Poitou
Poitou and
sa ve loys , black puddings,
saveloys, chiflerlings and
puddings, chitterlings other 'charcuterie
and other charcuterie
Périgord, Limousin
P€rigord, Limousin and and Saintonge. Such a neighbourhood
neighbourhood
are all
ail excellent.
excellent.
could not
could help but
not help but turn
tum the in habitants into
the inhabitants into gastronomes,
gastronomes,
considering Among the the sweet dishes andand cakes
cakes there are marvels,
marvels, a
considering the excellence of
the excellence of its food products.
products.
Ground kind ofof fritter; cheesecake made of
cheesecake made of Ruffec cheese; chocolate
chocolate
Ground and feathered game
and feathered game abound
abound in.Angoumois.
in- Angoumois.
Freshwater of all tartlets flavoured with brandy.
tartlets brandy.
Freshwater fishfish of aIl kinds are to
kinds are found in its
be found
to be Îts rivers; the
Touvre, Wines-
Wines - The wines of
The wines of the Angoumois region are mediocre
the Angoumois mediocre
Touvre, which
which flows flows past Angoulême, is
past Angoul€me, is still,
stiJl, as
as Clement
Marot and
and are rarely drunk
are rarely the province.
d runk outside the province. They are excellent
They are
said, 'paved
Marot said, 'paved with with trout,
trout, edged with ecls and crayfish,'
wÎth eels crayfish,'
and for distilling purposes,
for distilling porposes, however. Charente cognac is made made
these delicious
and these delicious fish fish and shellfish are made into into mouth-
watering from these wines (see COGNAC).
wines (see COGNAC).
watering matelotes.
matelotes.
Various species of
Various species mushrooms are
of mushrooms gathered in
are gathered in Angou-
Angou- ANGREC
ANGREC - A A group of plants;
group of sorne of
plants; some known of
of the best known
mois. In
mois. the quarries
In the quarries around
around Angoul6me
Angoulême cultivated mush- mush- which grow in Réunion Island and Madagascar, others on
in R€union
rooms
rooms areare grown;
grown; the delicacy of
the delicacy of their
their flavour
fla vour rivals
rivais the
the the Cape of
the of Good Hope
Hope and on the the west coast of
of Africa.
Africa.
famous
famous mushrooms
mushrooms cultivatedcuhivated in the quarries
in the quarries around
around Paris.
Paris. The most important species is
most important Angraecum Jragrons; its
is the Angraeanmfragrans;
Cattle bred in
Cattle bred in this
this region
region produce
produce excellent beef. beef. First-
First- leaves furnish
leaves faharn, or tea
the/aham,
furnish the tea of
of R€union
Réunion Island,
Island, which
which is
is
c1ass poultry
class poultry is is raised there, Barbezieux
raised there, Barbezieux chickens
chickens being
being widely used in the
widely used same way
the same as China
way as China tea.
tea.
particularly
particularly esteemed.
esteemed.
ANIMELLES
ANIMELLES -- This This is term for the
is aa culinary term testîcles of
the testicles
Culimry speciallties -- Friture
Culinary ryecialities Friture charentaise composed of
charentaise composed of
male animals, in
male animals, in particular those of
particular those rams. In
of rams. ln the
the past,
past,
various small fish;
various small fish; cagouilles,
cagouilles, stuffed or in
st uffed or ragoût. (By
in ragofit.
cagouilleswe animelles were very
animelles were much in
very much vogue in
in vogue in France,
France, Spain and
and
cagouilles we meanmean snails. The inhabitants
snails. The inhabitants ofCharente
of Charente are are so
so
fond Italy.
Italy. For
For recipes
recipes see OFFAL or
see OFFAL or VARIETY
VARIETY MEATS,
MEATS,
fond of them that
of them that they,
they, themselves,
themselves, are are nicknamed
nicknamed cagouil-
lards.) Animelles.
Animelles.
lards.)
Tourtière (raised
Tourtiire (raised pie containing chickar
pÎe containing chicken and and salsify);
salsify): ANISEED (Sweet
AIYISEED (Sweet cnmin). Plants with
VERT - Plants
ANIS vERr
cumin). ANrs -
wilh ovoid
ovoid
jugged hare, to
jugged hare, which is
to which added redcurrant
is added jelly; preserved
redcurrant jeUy; preserved seeds, slightly
seeds, contracted at
slightly contracted at the top, with
the top, with aa ribbed
ribbed surface
surface
duck,which
duck, which is served with
is served with potatoes sautéed in
potatoes sautEed goose fat,
in goose fat, or
or and
and short stiff greyish-green
short stiff greyish-green hairs.
hairs.

30
30
 ANJOU

sugar is
is used
used for several preparations.
for several preparations. The proportion of
The proportion of
aniseed varies. WhenWhen it it is
is intended for for the preparation
preparation of of
cake,25
aniseed cake, 25 g. (l oz., 3 tablespoons) aniseed are added
g. (1
to 500 g.
to 500 (18 oz.,
g. (18 2f, cups)
oz., 2* castor suga
cups) castor sugar. If, on
r. If, on the
the other
hand, it
hand, it is to be
is to be used
used to to fiavour
flavour sponge
sponge cakes,
cakes, biscuits,
proportion of aniseed can
custards or creams, the proportion can gogo upup to
100 grams (4 oz., i cup)cup) per 500500 g. o2.,2*
(18 oz.,
g. (18 cups) sugar.
2* cups)
Method. Pick over the aniseed carefully and
aniseed carefully and rub on fine
on aa fine
stalks. Dry in aa slow oyen
sieve to remove the stalks. oven forfor 12 hours.
12 hours.
with lump
Pound with
Pound lump sugar,
sugar, and sift through
and sift through aa fine fine sieve
sieve toto
obtain
ob tain aa very fine powder. Pound whatever remains in in the
the
Aniseed
until the whole has
sieve until has been sifted.
been sifted.
a. Fruit
a. this sugar
Keep this sugar inin aa hermetically
hermetically sealed jar or
sealed jar tin, and
or tin, and
b. Flower store in aa dry place.
Aniseed-flavoured sugar is aa more satisfactory
Aniseed-fiavoured flavouring
satisfactory fiavouring
than aniseed essence,
agent than
agent which is
essenc€, which rather strong
is rather strong and in-
and in-
clined to have more of an
c1ined aniseed smell
an aniseed flavour.
smell than fiavour.
The seeds sold in the shops must be c1eansed
cleansed of the soil
AI\IISETTE -- Aniseed-based
ANISETIE Aniseed-based liqueur. The best
liqueur. The best aniseed
aniseed
which
which often sticks to
often sticks to them.
them. Parsley seed, with the
seed, with the hairs anisette is also
liqueur in France
liqueur France is made in Bordeaux. Dutch anisette is also
is sometimes
removed, is sold as pdtisserie
sometimes fraudulently sold pâtisserie ani-
ani-
held in high repute.
held repute.
seed. Aniseed is used in confectionery
confectionery and
and distilling.
pAINs À (For the
(For preparation of
the preparation of the liqueur see
the liqueur LIQUEURS,
see LIQUEURS,
Aniseed oookies (Ahatian pastry).
cookies (Alsatian pastry). PAINS A L'ANIS
L'ANIs - Mix - Anise or anisette liqueur.)
500 g. (18
500 g. (18 oz., 2i
oz., 2| cups)
cups) fine
fine castor sugar
sugar and
and 1212 eggs in aa
eggs in
copper basin.
basin. Beat the mixture with aa whisk as for an
as for an ordi- ANJOU -- Land of
ANJOU of sweetness
sweetness andand harmony where where the the cuisine
anisine
nary sponge cake. and natural beauty.
and wines match its natura] beauty.
When the
When the mixture is is weil
well whisked,
whisked, add
add 500 g. (18
500 g. (18 oz., Henry Coutant, aa great
Henry Coutant, gastronome and
great gastronome and aa native
native ofof
4t
4| cups) sieved fiour,
flour, 200 g. (7 oz.,
g. (7 oz., scant 2 cups)
cups) cornfiour
cornflour Anjou, wrote: 'Its cuisine
wrote: 'Its is as
cuisine is mellow as
as mellow its skies,
as its harmon-
skies, harmon-
and 50 g.g. (2 oz,l1 cup) aniseed (in grains). Mix weil.
(2 oz., well. ious asas its horizons. Did not one one of wittiest sons
of Anjou's wittiest and
sons and
Drop tablespoons of the the mixture onto aa wetted
wetted baking aa great gounneL the
great gourmet, humourist Curnonsky,
the humourist Curnonsky, say say that Anjou
that Anjou
sheet. Place in a warm place to dry. When the cookies begin is gastronomy what Racine
is to gastronomy Racine is is to
to literature?' And Coutant
literature?' And Coutant
to rise slightly,
slightly, bake in a cool oyen.
oven. went on:on:
Aniseed-flavoured
Aniseed-flavoured sugar.
sugrr. SUCRE ANIsf -- Aniseed-fiavoured
sucR"E ANISÉ Aniseed-flavoured 'As
'As to its wines,
wines, they are like the humour
are like ofits in
humour ofits inhabitants:
habitants :

" '--01.... MiA I N E

1 '.
Gâteau; croo""ols '\ (j.me pÔlé.
oso?)
with :Imonds •••• Biscuits anisés
I Coroqns dc SoDli

"Craon .····, ..... 51. J~lie" cro~ue_I~'

{Rillettes ChâLe ~;;Ùër·"···
Chickens, Rillettes
-------: '~·f~os~-~--J- --~-Z-·1:'--- Eggs cn ig,3gf
r>t" ~~9re !ù
'" . Rit/eaux ~ ~{ ~
Z .. Cider ~ ~
"
Chouée,Bijane,
~...... Rump 0offvea
Rump i 'a l'l'dhgeiine
veal angevine
Game peltés "'-" !il'*fil"''-.t --r.,
.fl.!nde 6;i 1
_E-4~-----" Game, SausaSausal ,Fruit
rorrel r\
wrih ,orrel
Shad w,ih
Shad
"''''',-
GERS
Sluffed .h.iI .nd Rlilerre •. Gogue •. Ril/eaux ,,,
p:;
Ingrandes'
~luffed artlchoke •. Cremel che .. e
Pay's du Ra,
Potis du Rot René. P6tcs
Plum pÔI"
Rend. Plum // ,,,ii :
Partndge ci<ilalo mancelle.
Parlrldge Srlmon
moncelle, S.lmon / , ;

P,ke au blanc 1
<
Shad meun'''e. R,:lerre. •

MAIIE - \t\tN<4,!orRE Cr'mel chee.e. C.illebolle che.,e

ô la cha rdon"e~e :.

i_lt,jj:t:,
I Fouace, Guuillor"tlNf p Saumur
ttrrrrtst
-Caillebotte
5t t vlrLtg, Y.9
cheese,
vuaainsV(
lhrte RI/lenes

f,';,tt'34
Chouze chee ••
~_~ ... - t-":!'!:.~~U/~('L"C:;
.. --
___ ..... JUULESUIT- -.A.

,74/"' iBaW i,..,

~
~
ec t-
t(
-
" TOU
POITOU
POl
lr- I'
I
I

Gastronomie
Gastronomic rnap
map of
of Anjou
Anjou

31
31
ANJOU
ANJOU

light and
light and sparkling,
sparkling, of of incomparable
incomparable tas taste,
te, butbut atattimes
timesalso also
malicious and
malicious and treacherous
treacherous towards towards those
those who who have have no no idea
idea
how to
how to face
face up up toto their
their caprices
caprices withwith adequate preparation.
adequate preparation.
Admirable wines,
Admirable wines, however,
however, which which meritmerit one one of of the
the first
first
places among
places among the great wines
the great wines of of France.'
France.'
Anjou cattle,
Anjou cattle, bredbred forfor food, give meat
food, give meat of ofexcellent quality.
excellent quality.
The Maine
The Maine region
region cattle
cattle are are famous
famous for for the quality of
the quality of their
their
meat, and
meat, and so so are the Cholet
are the Cholet cattle.
cattle.
Anjou pork
Anjou pork isis of of the greatest delicacy,
the greatest delicacy, and and various locally
various locally
made charcuterie
made rillettes, potted
charcuterie -- rillettes, pork mince,
potted park mince, andouilles,
andouilles,
scrusages, black
sausages, black (U.S. (U.5. blood)blood) puddings
puddings -- are are admirable
admirable
'bacchic sspurs',
'bacchic purs', as as Rabelais
Rabelais called called them,
them, justjust the thing to
the thing to
make one
make one appreciate
appreciate the fragrant wines
the fragrant wines of of the Anjou vine-
the Anjou vine-
yards.
yards.
Anjou chickens
Anjou chickens are are tender
tender and plump, and
and plump, and make excellent
make excellent
fricassées.
fricassies.
'The fish
'The fish which
which the Loire so
the Loire generously offers
so generously offers us us between
between
Saumur and
Saumur and Champtoceaux
Champtoceaux isis more more delicate
delicate thanthan anywhere
anywhere
else,'declares
else,' declares an an Anjou gourmand.
Anjou gourmand.
Its pike are
Its pike are among
among the the finest;
finest; its
its shad,
shad, its its tench
tench andand its its
bream know
bream know no no rivaIs.
rivals. For For pike
pike andand shad,
shad, the the cooks
cooks of of
Anjou have
Anjou passed on
have passed on fromfrom generation
generation to to generation
generation the the
recipe forfor aa succulent
succulent sauce,sauce, beurre
beurre blanc (white butter),
blanc (white butter), the the
creamy taste of which is aa fragrant
thste ofwhich fragrant delight.
delight. Tench
Tench and and bream,
bream, The Loire near
The Loire nearSaumur
Saumur (French
(FrenchGOI'emmenl
GovernmentTourisi
Tourist Office)
Offce)
particularly bream,
particularly bream, are cooked chiefly
are cooked with aa sorrel
chiefly with sorrel stuffing
stuffing
which makes aa savoury foundation for
savoury foundation for their
their flesh.
flesh. With food
With food ofof such quality available
such quality available the themaster
master cookscooksand and
The Loire salmon
The salmon are famous; they
are famous; they are
are cQnsidered
censidered the the best
best cordons bleus of
cordons bleus of Anjou
Anjou are are naturally
naturally noted
noted for for their
theircuisine.
caisine.
all French river
of ail river salmon.
salmon. Culinary
Culinary speciaUties
specialities -- Saumur
Saumur rillettes,' rillons(greaves);
rillettes; rillons (greaves);
Poultry is is excellent
excellent in in Anjou. The The whole
whole worIdworld knowsknows of of potted pork mince,'
potted park mince; white puddings and
white puddings and other
other charcuterie
charcaterie
capon de
capon de la fliche
flèche and and chicken
chicken du du Mans.
Mans. First-class
First-class game game is is made
made from
from thethe fine
fine pork
pork ofof the
the region.
region.
found here.
also found here. Bouilleture,aa kind
Bouilleture, kind of matelote ofvarious
of matelote of various fishes,
fishes, principally
principally
Anjou vegetable produce is superb. superb. The The green
green cabbages
cabbages of of eels;
eels; stuffed
stuffed shad;
shad; bream
bream inin butter; pike or
butter; pike or shad
shad au au beurre
beurre
this region, the piochous, as as they
they are
are caIled,
called, are are weil
well known
known blanc (white
blanc (white butter);
butter); matelotes
matelotes of offreshwater
freshwater fish; fish; perch
perch with
with
and are made
and made into into those fricassées which delight
Jricassles which delight the the loyers
lovers prunes;
prunes; fish
fish stews;
stews; eel pdti.
eel pâté.
of country dishes. Rump
Rump of of veal
veal àd l'angevine;
I'angevine; pig's
pig's fry;
fry ; gogue;
gogue; fricassée
fricassie of of
The Anjou orchards
The Anjou orchards produce produce excellent
excellent fruit; fruit; pears, chicken; partridge àd lala mancelle;
chicken; partridge mancelle ; chouée
chouie (boiled
(boiled greengreen
dessert andand cider apples, plums and and strawberries.
strawberries. 'We 'We must
must cabbage
cabbage sprinkled
sprinkled withwith butter)
butter);;fricassée
fricassie of of green
green cabbage;
cabbage;
pay homage
homage to the fruits of Anjou, which which form form aa vegetable fricassde of
fricassée of cauliflower;
cauliflower; greengreen sa lads with
salads with walnut
walnut ail.oil.
aristocracy of
aristocracy of this
this province
province of of France,'
France,' said said gastronome Well-known
Well-known cheeses cheeses include
include the the Saumur
Saumur chouzé;chouzi; caille-
caille-
Henry Coutant.
Coutant. botte
botte àd la chardonette, and
la chardonette, and the
the Saumur
Saumur and and Angers
Angers crémets.
crimets.
Anjou cheeses are renowned. The The famous Angers Angers crémets
cremeE Other
Other famous
famous dishes
dishes are bijane or
are bijane or 'magpie
'magpie soup' soup' (similar
(similar
(soft fresh cream
cream cheeses) should really be classed classed amongamong the the to
to the
the Saintonge
Saintonge broth)broth) -- bread
bread crumbled
crumbled into into sweetened
sweetened red red
sweet courses rather than the cheeses. These crémets,
sweet crimets. whichwhich wine;
wine; roast
roast meat
meat with
with hot
hot wine; milliire (maize
wine; millière (maize meal meal andand rice
rice
are generally eaten eaten withwith sugar,
sugar, cancan also
also bebe sprinkled
sprinkled with with porridge); fouie (a
porridge); fouée (a sort
sort ofof fiat
flat girdle
girdle cake
cake made
made of of bread
bread
salt and flavoured with chives. dough,
dough, spread
spread with butter);fouace (fiat
with butter);fouace (flat cakes
cakes baked
baked in in the
the

A vineyard
A vineyard on
on the
the bank
bank of the Loire
of the Loire at Huillé
at Huill6

32
32
 ANJOU
ANJOU

( Map of the principal vineyards

~ vineyards in Anjou
EAU Angers
c.oi x Dt:
Champ/ace '4 LOIP.~ SÙJartlleJemy
• S.'{jeorçe~5fL Bra;n·s/./Au/IIIOII
IlIgrolldes Sovennil!~ ~ ___- -__
• LoPosJo.nmàf! l'turs
Monljeau R~c/iefort- 5.' Me/alfle Le Tl7ourei/
• Cliobonlles -JUr!oJrr. BrIssac •
laPommeroye '..St.4UblfldNUlgne)~ •
C/laudefond' BeaulIeu ~ Gellnes ~
f'LamIJu; ol'oye .~.f Sa mur .~~
dlJLalloy "our:rel! 1 . .• ~'l Q"\ ).. ~
C' • Chavaglles 5Wtlolre <:JO ~;\()\'I'li!
o~f: LeCllo,:p .. 5~/orl!nt. ">r:sq(§#).~<:J IRE
1v foyeroye 110~!lçne·8rlafll! Varratn! \"-t-Q'I' \.0
-t D V $l6erJfY7e
..,. OOue cll0;11? .
·Chamoujny
~yo L.h· B :S;Cyr-en·80urq""""""---
~ es ,~ers reZe.
Nuej! • MO~lJil.8{!//ay
ayofl le~uyN-f3ome

, &"!fs~:e;ç, oo Pouon,oy

8"",/1,,,,,,,\ ':n: Botties and a glass for Anjou wine

Bottles

hearth). Rabelais speakssp€aks of of'fouaciers

'fouaciers of ofLern€
Lerné (or Lernay),
Lernay), from
from the
the Gamay, C6t and
Gamay, Côt grapes. The
and Groslot grapes. The Cabernet
of Maine-et-Loire,' which which shows how long these cakes have ros6 is (as its name indicates) produced exclusively from the
rosé
known. There
been known.
been There are also guillaret
are also gui/laret or or échaudé;
ichaudi; Angers Cabernet grape.
aniseed biscuits; prune pie.
bisaits; prune pie. The fouace
fouace and guillaret are
and the gui/laret are The Angevin all into verse:
Angevin poet Marc Leclerc has put it aIl
not delicate pastries; in the past they used to be sold in the
markets and at fairs in western
fairs in western France. Their main main quality Voici les
les vins du Layon,
was to provoke thirst. Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé,
Beaulieu, Touarc6, Faye,
Wines -- The Anjou wines include those of the Angers and
Wines Doux coum' le miel au rayon,
Saumur regions
Saumur (which have
regions (which have aa right
right to to the
the appellations
appellations Chauds coum' le soleil qui raye,
'Anjou' and 'Saumur').
'Saumur'). Voild la Coulée
Voilà Coulie d' Serrant,
wines. These are made from the Chénin
White wines.
White Ch6nin grape. Saint- Bar thC lemy, Savennières,
Saint-Barthélemy, S avenniC r e s,

Saumur. Very
Saumur. Very drydry white wines with aa strong
wines with strong bouquet. Qui tiennent
tiennent ben aussi leu rang
They stand up
They up very well to
very weIl to the
the fermenting process of the
fermenting process Avec ceuss d'La
canss d' Possotuiire,
La Possonnière,
mdthode champenoise to
méthode to give very
very pleasant semi-sparkling
semi-sparkling Ceux dedc Saumur
Saumur et d'alentour,
and sparkling
sparkling wines.
wines. The grapes are grown grown on the banks of Saint-C yr-en- Bourg,
Varrains ou Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg,
the Loire and on those of its tributary,
the Thouet. Brézé,
tributary, the Thouet. Brezg, Montsoreau,
Mont soreau, Parnay, Dampierre,
Parnay
Parnay and Montsoreau
Montsoreau are three of of the principal vineyards. Et leu si plaisant gofrt d' pierre,
plaisant goût
Coteawc de
Coteaux de lala Iniire. Fine, elegant white
Loire. Fine, with a
wines with
white wines L' champigny
L' champigny qu'àqu'd la
Ia couleur
couleur
strong bouquet
strong bouquet are produced here;
are produced here; these get dryer every
these get Et la senteur des framboèses
des framboises
year. The best-known
year. best-known vineyards are are those Epir6, Saven-
those of Epiré, I'on n' sait quel est l' meilleur
Et l'on
nières
nidres (which has a right to a special appellation),
appellation). la Roche-
Roche- Vin de nffeau ou
de tuffeau ou vin d'ardoèse.
d'ardoCse.
aux-Moines and
aux-Moines and la la Coulée
Coul€e de de Serrant, both on
Serrant, both on the
the right
bank. Here are the wines of Layon,
La Coulée
Coul€e de de Serrant is a walled vineyard vineyard that was was pre- Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé,
Touarc6, Faye,
sented by Louis XI to his chamberlain Perthus de Brie along
chamberlain Perthus Sweet as honey in the comb,
with a château
chAteau which has since disappeared.
disappeared. Glowing like the sun's ray,
It was
It was at la Roche-aux-Moines,
at la Roche-aux-Moines, on on 2727 July
lruJy 1214, that
12L4, that There is the Coulée
Coul€e de Serrant,
John Lackland was
John defeated by
was defeated by Louis XI, XI, son
son of Philippe
Philippe Sain t- Barthélemy, Savennières,
Saint-Barth€lemy, S avennidres,

Auguste. The
Auguste. The vineyard, planted by
vineyard, planted by the monks of Saint-
the monks That are every bit as good
Nicolas of Angers, dates back to the eleventh
Nicolas eleventh century
century A.D. As those of La Possonnière
Possonnidre
Coteaux du
Coteaux &t Layon.
Layon. Liqueur-like aromatic white white wines Of Saumur and its neighbours
made from
made from over-ripe grapes ('la pourriture noble' or 'noble Varrains
Varrains or Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg,
Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg,
ot', Botrytis cenerea).
trot', cenerea). Montsoreau,
Montsoreau, Parnay, Dampierre,
Dampierre,
The great liqueurJike Anjou wines are at their best in the
great liqueur-like And the raspberry-scented Champigny
Champigny
Bonnezeaux
Bonnezeaux and and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. The
Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. The colour of rubies
Coteaux de l'Aubance
I'Aubance are also worth mentioningmentioning -- excellent
excellent Laced with the tang of the soil
white wines from the banks of the River River Aubance. Chalk or sla te
slate
Red The red
wines. The
Red wines. red wines
wines of Anjou and and Saumur
Saumur come Who can say which is best.
from the Cabernet grape. The best known of them (and for
reason) is
good reason)
good Saumur-Champigny with
is Saumur-Champigny with its its exquisite Good quality marc brandies (distilled from the husks of
strawberry bouquet and
strawberry and deep ruby colour.
deep ruby colour. It It was
was Cur- after the
grapes after
grapes wine has
the wine has been
been made) and sorne
made) and some highly
nonsky's favourite wine. d'Angers are also pro-
esteemed liqueurs such as Guignolet d'Angers
Rosi
Rosé wines. The The rosés Anjou and
ros6s of Anjou and Saumur, velvety or duced in this region.
well known and much in demand. They are
dry, are weB are made Finally, there is Segré
Segr€ cider, which is excellent.
excellent.

33
ANNA POT
ANNA POTATOES
ATOES

ANTISEPSIS. ANTISEPSIE
ANTISEPSIS. nvnsnpsrr - - Method
Method wruch aims atatthe
which aims the
preventionof
prevention putrefaction or
of putrefaction orinfection
infection bybyuse
useofofchemical
chemical
substances. The
substances. The salting
salting and
and smoking
smoking of of meat
meatactually
actually con-
con-
stitutes an
stitutes an application
application of of antiseptic treatment.The
antiseptic treatment. Theuse of
useof
vinegar in
vinegar in marinades,
marinades, and ofsalt
and of saltor alcoholfor
or alcohol forpreserving
preserving
fruit, also
fruit, also achieves
achieves this purpose.With
thispurpose. With exceptions,
exceptions, the
theuse of
useof
antiseptics as
antiseptics preservativesfor
as preservatives forfood
foodsubstances generally
substances isisgenerally
condemned. The
condemned. practice can
Thepractice can bebedangerous, exceptininthe
dangerous, except the
hands of
hands qualified food
of gualified food chemists,
chemists,who who use,
use,when
when reguired,
required,
selected
selected substances which are
substances which strictly controlled
arestrictly controlled bybyappro-
appro-
priate laws.
priate laws.
ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTIQUES
ANTISEPTICS. lNnsnprrer.rEs - - Substances
Substanceswhich
whichcounter-
counter-
act putrefaction, fermentation
act putrefaction, fermentation and
and infection.
infection. (See
(See PRESER-
PRESER-
Casserole for Anna
Casserole for Anna potaloes
Dotatoes vATroN.)
VATION.)
ANVERSOISE (À
ANVERSOISE (A V)
L') -- Method
Method of of preparing
preparing large
large and
and
pomvrns DE small
small pieces
pieces of
of meat,
meat, calves'
calves' sweetbreads
sweetbreads and
andeggs.
eggs.These
Theseare
are
ANNA POT POTATOES.
ATOES. POMMES DE TERRE A method
ANNA -- A
rERRE ANNA method ofof
potatoes cut
preparing potatoes in thin
cut in thin round
round slices, in butter
cooked in
slices, cooked butter
garnished with hop
garnished with hopstaJks in butter
stalks in orcream
butter or cream and
and potatoes
potatoes
in aa special
in special utensil or aa covered
utensil or covered terrine.
terrine. (See POTATOES.)
(See POT A TOES.) fried in
fried in butter.
butter.

ANNETIE POT
ANNEITE POTATOES. porrauns DE
ATOES. POMMES DE TERRE ANNETTE --
rERRE ANNETTE
AOUDZE -- Name
AOUDZÉ Name given
given inin Ethiopia
Ethiopia toto aastrongly
strongly spiced
spiced
Prepared like Anna
Prepared like Anna potatoes, but the
potatoes, but potatoes should
the potatoes should be
be
sauce which is made
sauce whichis made of of pimento,
pimento, ginger,
ginger, cloyes
cloves and
and an
an
shredded into fine
shredded into fine julienne strips (q.v.). (See
strips (g.v.). POTATOES.)
(See POTATOES.)
aromatic plant somewhat
aromatic plant similar toto thyme,
somewhat similar thymeoknown
known asas
zégakelie.
zigakelie.
The
The Ethiopians
Ethiopians serve
serve this
this sauce
sauce with
with aadish
dish which
which they
they cali
call
brondo,
brondo, of
of which
which they
they are
are very
very fond.
fond.
APERITIF -- The
APÉRITIF The old old pharmacopoeia
pharmacopoeia recognisedrecognised major major
(roots of
bitters (roots
bitters of parsley,
parsley, fenneJ,
fennel, asparagus
asparagus and and butcher's
butcher's
broom)
broom) and and minor
minor bitters
bitters (roots
(roots ofmaidenhair
of maidenhair fern, fern, couch-
couch-
grass,
grass, thistle,
thistle, rest-harrow
rest-harrow and and strawberry-plant).
strawberry-plant). The The term
term
as
as used
used today
today only
only applies
applies to to stimulants
stimulants of of appetite.
appetite.
Apéritifs
Aperitifs served
served in in cafés
cafts areare drinks
drinks of of aa greater
greater or or lesser
lesser
degree
degree of of bitterness,
bitterness, variously flavoured, which
variously flavoured, which are are drunk
drunk
neat
neat or or diluted
diluted withwith water.
water. TheyThey generally
generally have have aa strong
strong
alcoholic
alcoholic content,
content, because
because the the essences
essences of of which
which theythey areare
composed
composed are are not
not soluble
soluble except
except in in strong
strong alcohol
alcohol (which
(which isis
Annona
Annona why
why they
they gogo cloudy
cloudy whenwhen mixed
mixed withwith water)
water) andand thisthis alcohol
alcohol
l. Cherimoya
1. Cherimoya
2.
2. BulJock's
Bullock's heart
heart content
content to to aa great
great extent
extent nullifies
nullifies the
the beneficial
beneficial action
action of of the
the
3.
3. Sour sop bitters.
bitters.
But,
But, through
through sheer sheer force
force ofof habit
habit (or(or perhaps
perhaps throughthrough
imagination),
imagination), sorne some people
people think
think that
that they
they have
have no no appetite
appetite
ANNONA.
ANNONA. ANONEANoNE-- The annona or custard apple
unless
unless they
they havehave their
their daily
daily apéritif
ap€ritif (or aperitifs). ItIt isis this
(or apéritifs). this
apple isis the fruit
fruit
of of trees (Annonaceae) native to
of a family of to tropical
tropical America
fact
fact which
which has has led
led toto the
the coining
coining of of the
the phrase
phrase that that ifif an
an
America apéritifcan
ap€ritif can open open thethe appetite,
appetite, itit does
does soso with
with aa skeleton
skeleton key.key.
but cultivated
cultivated in southern California and and tropical
tropical Asia. The The Be
Be this
this as
as itit may,
may, the
the apéritif
ap€ritif was,
was, and
and still
still is,
is, aa traditional
traditional
cherimoya (Annona
cherimoya (Annona cherimolia), one of the
one of the most
most popular rite
globe artichoke rite in
in certain
certain circles.
circles.
varieties, resembles aa globe artichoke inin both
both colour
colour and and
shape, with the difference that its skin isis shiny.
shiny. It
It has
has cream
cream
coloured flesh, less white than
coloured than that of the sour sop (Annona
sour sop (Annona
muricata), which isis larger
larger and more
more acid in
in flavour.
flavour. TheThe sweet
sweet
sop (Annona squamosa), which sorne some people say say is
is the
the true
true
apple, is particularly popular
custard apple, popular in
in the
the West
West Indies
Indies and
and
has a sweet,
sweet, custard-like
custard-like flavour
flavour and aa strong
strong scent.
scent. Annonas
Annonas
are only eaten raw.
ANON -- This fish, one of
ANON of the
the varieties of
of haddock,
haddock, abounds
abounds
in vast
vast numbers in
in the
the English
English Channel.
Channel. Its
Its flesh
flesh is
is very
very
white, and layered.
white, layered.
The fishing season
The mainly January
season for it is mainly January and
and February.
February.
the U.S.A. hake
In the hake and
and cusk
cusk (usually sold
sold in fillets) are
in fillets) are very
very
to this
similar to this fish.
fish.
For cookery
For cookery purposes
purposes it
it is
is treated
treated as
as whiting
whiting (g.v.).
(q.v.).
ANTHRACITE -- Coal
ANTHRACITE Coal remarkable
remarkabJe for
for its
its great purity; one
great purity; one
of the
of the fuels
fuels which
which is
is used,
used, in
in preference
preference to
to others,
others, for heating
for heating
and cooking.
and cooking.
ANTIDOTE. coNrRE-porsoN
ANTIDOTE. CONTRE-POISON - Substance capable of
Substance capable of
neutralising the
neutralising the toxic
toxic properties of
of another
another substance, by
substance, by
forming with
forming with it
it an
an insoluble
insoluble non-toxic
non-toxic combination.
combination. La
La Partie
Partie de
de Plàisir,
Plaisir, an
an engraving
engraving by
by de Moitte afler a painting by Lancrel
de Moitte after a painting by Lancret

34
34
 APHORISMS AND
APHORISMS AND AXIOMS
AXIOMS

The
The traditional apéritif 'rite'
traditional ap6ritif -rite' is tending to
is tending to disappear.
disappear. 14. A
14. dessert without
A dessert is like
cheese is
wit hout cheese 1ike a beautiful
bea utiful woman
woman
Those who
Those to look
used to
who used upon itit as an
look upon occasion to
an occasion meet their
to meet their with
with one
one eye.
cye.
friends or
friends simply as aa form
or simply fonn ofof relaxation
relaxation are
are beginning
beginning to to 15.
15. One can learn
One can lcam to
to cook.
cook, but
but aa restaurateur is born.
restaurateur is born.
substitute
substitute for
for this'agreeablefaux
this 'agreeablefaux pas pas of the pdlate'perhaps
of the pi1[ate' perhaps 16. The
The most indispensable quality
most indispensable quality of of a cook is is punctu-
punctu-
fruit juice,
aa fruit juiee, or glass of
or aa glass of mineral water, or -- better
minerai water, betler still
still- - alîty; it should
al.ity; should also also be be that
that of of aa guest.
guesl.
simply glass of
simply aa glass of wine.
wine. To wait
17. To
17. wait too long for
too long for aa late-comer
late-comer is is to
to show
show aa lacklack of
Doctor
Doctor Ramain, Ramain, who who calls himself an
calls himself an 'independent
'independent consideration for
consideration for all those present.
all those present.
gastronome',
gastronome', has selected what
has selected wha t he considers to
he considers to bebe the
the best
best 18. He
18. He who receives his
who receives his friends
friends and gives. no
and gives no personal
personal
ap€ritifs
apéritifs andand lists them in
lists them the following
in the following order:
order : attention to
attention to the meal which
tbe meal which is is being prcpared for
being prepared for them,
them, isis
L1. The
The best vintage brut
best vintage brui Champagne, served served well
weil chilled
chilled not
not worthy
worthy of of having
having friends.
friends.
and sparkling with
and sparkling with tiny
tiny bubbles.
bubbles. 19. The
19. mistress of
The mistress of the house must
the house always make
must always make sure sure that
that
2. The still
2. The still Champagne
Champagne Blanc Blanc dede Blancs.
Blancs. her coffee is
her coffee is excellent,
excellent, and and the master of
the master of the house that
the house that hishis
3. A
3. glass of
A glass genuine old
of genuine sherry; or,
old sherry; beUer still, an
or, better an wines
wines are are choice.
choice.
authentic Cbâteau-Châlon yellow
authentîc Chdteau-Chdlon wine from
yellow wine from thethe Jura.
Jura. 20. To
20. To invite sorne one is
invite someone is to
to take charge of
take charge of his
his happiness
happiness
4. An
4. An 'Aligot6'
'Aligoté' white Burgundy (Aligot6
white Burgundy (Aligoté is is the name of
the name of during
during the the time
time he spends under
he spends under your your roof.
roof.
the grape)
the blended with
grape) blended with aa little
little fine Cassis. 'Kir,'
fine Cassis. 'Kir,' asas this
trus Sorne of
Some of Brillat-Savarin's
Brillat-Savarin's aphorisms, aphorisms, notably notably the the oneone
mixture
mixture is is called,
called, is is aa misnomer,
misnomer, since since itil was
was already
already being
being which daims that
which claims that 'One
'One can can learn
learn to to cook,
cook, but but aa restaurateur
restaurateur
drunk
drunk in Burgundy in
in Burgundy in l9l2,long
1912, long before
before the the Alsatian
AJsatian Canon
Canon isis born' are rather
born' are rather disputable
disputable!!
Kir
Kir held
held office
office as as deputy mayor of
deputy mayor of Dijon.
Dijon. There
Thcre areare many
many other other gastronomic
gastronomie aphorisms.aphorisms, We We quote
quote
5. A
5. good quality
A good Scotch whisky
quality Scotch whisky served neat or
served neat or with
with aa sorne which
some which are attributed to
are attributed to the
the actor
actor Des Des Essarts,
Essarts, who, who,
splash of
splash of soda.
soda. according to
according contemporary author,
to aa contemporary author, had had an appetite pro-
an appetite pro-
6.
6. Certain authentic Italian
Certain authentic Italian vermouths,
vermouths, alone,alone, or or with
with portionate
porüonate to to his corpuleoce (Des
his corpulence (Des Essarts
Essarts was was veryvery fat)
fat) and
and
ice, or
ice, or with
with chilled sparkling mineral
chilled sparkling minerai water.
water. was
was as much aa gastronome
as much gastronome as as aa man
man of wit- qualities
ofwit- qualities whichwhich
7. One
7. One of of aa small number of
small number of good
good drydry French
French vennouths
vermouths oflen go
often go together.
together.
such
such as as Noilly,
Noilly, drunk
drunk neat,neat, oror with sparkling mineral
with sparkling minerai water
water- - Sorne people
Some people claim daim that that he he was
was the precursor of
the precursor of Brillat-
Brillat-
or (wait
or (wail for for it!) blended with
it!) blended Even the
Casis. Even
with Casis. aocient (but
the ancient (but Savarin. AA good
Savarin. good dinner
dinner would wou Id put put him into good
him into good spirits.
spirits. LIeHe
reborn!)
rebom! ) Savoyard
Savoyard Chamb6ry
Chambéry vermouths
vermout hs are are recommended.
recommended. would
would eloquently
eloquently analyse analyse the qualities of
the qualities each dish
of each dish and and
8.
8. AsAs aa last resort, during
last resort, during the long hot
the long hot summer
summer days days crea te amusingly
create amusingly bizatre combinations of
bizafre combinations of words:
words:
(espccially ifjf you
(especially happen to
you happur live in
to live in the south of
the south of France)
France) aa 'Good
'Good cookery
cookery isis the the food
food of of aa clear
clear conscience.'
conscience.'
splendid light'pastis'
splendid light 'pastis' simply because its
simply because its tart aniseed flavour
tan aniseed flavour 'kt'Let the
the legleg ofofmutton
multon be be awaited
awaited as the first
as the first lovers'
lovers' meet-
meet-
refreshes
refreshes the the palate
palate without
without spoiling
spoiling the the appetite.
appetite. ing,
ing, mortified
mortified as as aa liar caught in
liar caught in the act, golden
the act, golden as as aa young
young
German girl,
German girl, andand bloody
bloody as as aa Carib.'
Carib.'
APHORISMS
APHORlSMS ANDAND AXIOMS. APHORISMES Er
AXIOMS, ApHoRTsMES AXIOMES *-
ET AxroMEs 'Take advantage of
'Take advantage of the the gracious condescensÎon of
gracious condescension of the
the
Short pithy
Short pithy maxims, rules and
expressing rules
maxims, expressing precepts of
and precepts of eJegant calf's
elegant kidney, multiply
calf's kidney, multiply its metamorphoses; you
its metamorphoses; you can,can,
gastronomy,
gastronomy, hygiene hygiene and everything pertaining
and everything pertaining to the table,
to the table, without
without givinggivlng itit offence,
offence, call cali itit the chameleon of
the chameleon of cuisine.'
cuisine.'
the most
the celebrated of
most celebrated of which
which are those of
are those of Brillat-Savarin,
Brillat-Savarin, 'Make
'Make of of anan eggegg an amiable intermediary
an amiable intermediary which which comes cornes
given
given by by this
this master
master of ofgastronomical
gastronomical sciences sciences as preface to
as aa preface to between
betweeo the various parts
the various parts of food to
of food bring about
to bring about difficult
difficult
Physiologie
Physiologie du du gofrt.
goût. Here
Here theythey are:
are: reconciliations.'
reconcil iations.'
l.1. The universe isis nothing
The universe nothing except except for for life,
life, and
and everything
everything 'Mutton
'Mutlon is is toto lamb
lamb what what aa millionaire
millionaire uncle uncle is is toto his
his
that
that lives has to
lives has feed itself.
to feed itself. poverty-stricken
poverty-strîcken nephew.' oephew.'
2. Animals
2. Animais feed; feed; man eats; only
man eats; only aa man
man of ofwit
wit knows
knows how how 'A'A vineJeaf wrapped round
vine-leaf wrapped round aa partridge
partridge brings brings out oût itsits
toto eat.
eal. quality, just
quality, just as as the barrel of
the barrel Diogenes brought
of Diogenes brought forth forth the the
3.
3. The destiny of
The destiny of nations depends on
nations depends on their manner of
tbeir manner of qualities
qualities of ofthethe great
great thinker.'
thinker.'
eating.
eating. 'Never
'Never forget
forget thatthat thethe pheasant
pheasant must must be awaited like
be awaited like the
the
4. Tell
4. Tell me what you
me what you eat, and IJshall
eat, and tell you
shall tell what you
you what you are.
are. pension
pension of ofaa manman of letters who
ofletters who has never written
has never epistles to
written epistles to
5. The
5. The Creator,
Creator, by by making
making man man eat eat toto live, invites him
live, invites him to to m.inisters or
the ministers
the madrigals to
or madrigals to their
their mistresses.'
mistresses.'
dodo so so with
witb appetite
appetite and rewards him
and rewards him withwith pleasure.
pleasure. Des Essarts, born
Des Essarts, born at Langres in
at Langres 1740, was
in 1740, was one one of ofthethe best
best
6. Gourmandism is
6. Gourmandism is anan actact ofof judgement,
judgement, by by which
wbich we we actors of
actors ofthethe Com€die-Frangaise.
Comédie-Française. He suddenly in1793,
died suddenly
He died in 1793,
prefer
prefer things
thingswhich
which havehave aa pleasant
pleasant tastetaste to thosewhich
to those which lacklack on hearing ofthe
on hearing arrest ofone
of the arrest of one ofhis best friends.
of bis best friends.
this quality.
this quality. The
The poets
poets and and prose writers of
prose writers ofthethe past
past have
have alsoalso formu-
formu-
7.
7. The pleasures of
The pleasures of thethe table belong to
table belong to all ageS, to
ail agei, to all
ail lated gastronomical
lated gastronomical aphorisms aphorisms and and axioms.
axioms.
conditions, to
conditions, to all countries and
ail countries and to every day;
to every day; they
they cancan be be Horace,
Horace, who who setsetgreat
grea tstore
storeby bythe c1ean liness of
thecleanliness ofthethe table,
table,
associated with
associated with all ail the
the other pleasures and
other pleasures and remain
remain the the and
and above above all insisted that
ail insisted that oneone should
should be able to
be able to see
see one's
one's
longest to
longest to console
console us us for
for the loss of
the loss ofthethe rest.
rest. reftection mirrored
reflection m.irrored in in the the plates
plates and glasses, wrote
and glasses, wrote as as
8.
8. TheThe table
table isis the
the only
only place
place where
where one one isîs never
never bored
bored follows:
follows:
during
during the the first
first hour.
hour. 'The
'The stomach
stomach heaves heaves when when one receives from
one receives from aa valetvalet aa
9.
9. The di5covery of
The discovery ofaa newnew dish does more
dish does more for for the
the happi-
happi- goblet bearing the
goblet bearing greasy imprint
the greasy imprint of of hishis sauce-stained
sauce-stained
ness of
ness ofmankind
mankind than than the the discovery
discovery of ofaa star.
star. fingers, and
fingers, and when when one one seessees at at the
the bottom
boltom the the filthy
filthy dregs
dregs
10. Those who
10. Those who give indigestion or
themselves indigestion
give themselves or get
get drunk,
d run k, collected
collected there.'
there.'
do not
do not know
know how how to eat or
to eat or drink.
drink. Plutarch
Plutarch makes makes this statement -- which
this statement which he he attributes
attributes to to
l. The
I Il. Thecorrect
correct order
orderof offoods startingwith
foods isisstarting with the
theheaviest
heaviest Aemilius
Aemilius Paulus,Paulus, the theconqueror
conqueror of Persia: 'The
ofPersia: 'Tbesamesameintelli-
intelli-
and ending with
and ending with thethe lightest.
lightesl. gence
genceisis required
required toto marshal
marshal an army inin battle
an arrny battle as as toto order
orderaa
12. The
12. The correct
correct orderorder of beverages is
of beverages starting with
is starting with the
the good
gooddinner.
dinner. The Thefirst
firstmust
must be beas asformidable
formidable as aspossible,
possible, the the
most
most temperate
temperateand endingwith
and ending with the
the most
most heady.
beady. second
second as as pleasant
pleasantas as possible,
possible, to the participants.'
to the participants.'
13. To
13. daim that
To claim tbat wines should not
wines should not be changed is
he changed is aa In these words
In these Plutarch gives
words Plutarch gives aa valuable
valuable lesson lesson to to all
al!
heresy; the
heresy; the palate
palate becomes saturated and
becomes saturated and after
aner the the third
third would-be gastronomes, to
would-be gastronomes, those who
to those who frequently
frequently compose compose
glass the
glass best of
the best of wines nothing but
arouses nothing
wines arouses but an an obscure
obscure menuswhich
menus which wouldwould give give no no pleasure
pleasure to truegastronome.
to aa true gastronome.
sensation.
sensation. Rabelais
Rabelais categorically
categorically declares declares that that only only 'candle-lit'
'candie-lit'

35
35
APHORISMS AND AXIOMS

dinners and suppers suppers are pleasing. He goes goes on to say: 'There 'There level of
he on the level
be of Polygnotus
PoJygnotus and Phidias,
Phidias, he his part
he has his part and
is no good cheer cheer except at night when the the lanterns are in his place in civilisation as a whole.'
whole."
place with
wilh their gentlegentle flickering lights.' 'Skilful
'Sk.ilful and refined cookery cookery has always made its appear-
Nearer to our own time, other writers and gastronomes ance during the most glorious glarious epochs in history.'
have formulated many
have many aphorisms which may may be be taken
taken as 'Vatel
'Vatel is not not less famous than his master, conqueror of
master, the conqueror of
sound gastronomical
sound gastronomical rules. rules. Rocroi, and and if if glory
glory is nothing but smoke, then then Antonin
Antonin
Carême gives the following advice to ministers and
Thus Car€me Carème has
Car€me bas made as much of it it as Napoleon.'
diplomats: 'The culinary art follows diplomacy, and every 'To give life to ta beauty, the painterpainter uses a whole whoJe range of of
prime minister should pay it tribute.'
prime minister tribute.' colours, the musician of of sounds, the cook of tastes - and it is
of tastes
Talleyrand knew knew this this only too too well.
weil. He
He used used to ta advise indeed remarkable that there
indeed remarkable there are sevenseven colours, seven musi-
ambassadors at the courts
French ambassadors courts of foreign sovereigns sovereigns to ta cal notes and seven tastes.' tastes.'
rely more on their their casseroles than on their secretaries. secreta ries. Lucien Tendret also made the following
Lucien Tendret following remarks illustrat-
illustrat-
Carême also says: 'To
Car6me preside over a political cham
'To preside chamber, ber, or importance of good cuisine
ing the importance cuisille in diplomatic
diplomatie affairs:
affairs:
to hold aa post in an embassy, em bassy, is to ta take a course in gastro-
a course 'Political issues are
'Political issues decided at
are decided table. Talleyrand often
at table.
nomy.' owed his
owed successes to
his successes to thethe skilful creations of
sk.ilful creations of Antonin
Another
Another of of Car€me's
Carême's aphorisms stresses stresses how how very very im- Car6me.'
Carême.'
portant is the part
is the part played
played by by cookery: 'When 'When there is is no 'At
'A t the time of the Congress Congress of Vienna, the ambassador ambassador
more cookery in the world there will be no more letters, no (Talleyrand),
(Talleyrand), taking leave of
taking leave Louis XVIII,
of Louis said to
XVIII, said to him:
o'Please
quick and lofty intelligence, no no pleasant
pleasant easy relationships,
relationships, "Please believe me, Majesty, Il need
me, your Majesty, need saucepans more
no more social unity.' (Pdtissier pittoresque)
unit y.' (Pâtissier pilloresque) than written questions."'
questions." ,
responsible for this aphorism: 'Intellectual
Saint-Beuve is responsible
Saint-Beuve 'IntelJectual 'Monsieur
'Monsieur Guizot assures us
Guizot assures us that
that while he was am ambassador
bassador
men who quîcklyquickly wolf wolf down whatever nourishment nourislunent is neces- neces- in London,
London, his rus cook was more useful useful to ta him politically
politically than
sary for
sary for their
their bodies with with aa kind
kind of disdain,
disdain, may may be be very his secretaries.'
secretaries,'
rational
rational and have have a lofty intelligence, but they are not men of of He also gave the following ad vice, in the form ofaxioms,
advice, of axioms,
taste.' to his
rus hosts and guests:
Monselet, who
Monselet, who was was aa gastronome and and extremely witty, witt y, 'To order
'To order and conduct aa dinner
and conduct dinner is is givcn only to
given only to fine
formulated many aphorisms in his writings.
formulated writings. This one shows gastronomes, of
gastronomes, of delicate cultivated tastes. A skilful host
delicate and cultivated
importance of good dinners:
social importance
the social is as rare as aa good cook.'
'Tout sefait
'Toul se fait en dinant
dînant dans siicle où
dans le siècle oil 1101lS
nous sommes
sommes 'One only dines well
'One weil ata t the homes of of true gastronomes who
t rue gastronomes
c'est par des dÎner.ç
Et c'est diners qu'on gouverne les hommes.' feel allail the nuances. The least puffiness spolls spoils the loveliest ofof
'Everything is done at dinner in the century in which which we faces, and
faces, and attention to detail creates perfection.' perfection.'
live, and it is by dinners that men are governed.' 'With
'With money,
money, anyone anyone can can offer
offer succulent dishes and
succulent dishes
Monselet also wrote: famous
famous wines, wines, but courtes kindness cannot be bought.'
courtesyy and kindness
'Gastronomy is the joy joy of every condition and every age. 'To make people
'To make people who have no appctîte appetite eat, to make make the witwit
It adds beauty to wit.'
lt of those who have it sparkle, to
of ta enable those who Jack lack these
'A gourmet is aa being pleasing to Heaven.'
'A qualities to
qualities to find
find them
them -- this this isis the science of
supreme science
the supreme of a
'All passions,
'AJI passions, rationalised
rationalised and controlled, become an art. gastronome-host.'
gastronome-hosl.'
Gastronomy, more
Gastronomy, more thanthan any other passion,
any other passion, is is sensitive
sensitive to to 'The gourmets, if if they
chey are are not seated comfortably and
not seated
reasoning and and direction.' have no elbow raom, room, count both the wines and food for
and the food for
'Ponder weil well on this point: point: the pleasant
pleasant hours of our Iife life nothing.'
all connected, by
are ail
are more or
by aa more or less intangible link,
less intangible link, with And to sum up his phîlosophy philosophy Lucien Tendret says:
some memory of the
sorne the table.' 'French conversation was born in
'French in the salons of the eigh-
'There are
'There are manymany flowers which serve
flowers which only to
serve only to produce teenth century. From the dining-rooms dining-rooms of the the Regent, from
of which one could
essences, ofwhich could have made made savoury dishes.' those of
those of President H€nault, Baron
President H~nault, Holbach and
Baron Holbach and Mme.
Lettres àd Emilie he gives the following advîce
And in his Le!lres advice to Geoffrin, there emerged emerged aa society,
society, certainly sceptical and
sceptical and
ail 'Enchant, stay beautiful
all women: 'Enchant, beautiful and gracious; but to do impious, but
impious, permeated with
but permeated wilh suave urbanity and
suave urbanity and that
well. Dring
this, eat weil. Bring the consideration to
the same consideration the prepara-
ta the ingenious and and enlightened courtesy which which has since spread
tion ofyour
ofyour food as you devote devote ta appearance. Let your
to your appearance. your throughout Europe,
throughout Europe, and and has has become
become one one ofof the
the salient
dinner be be aa poem, Iike like your dress.' rac teri s tics 0off modern ci
characteristics
cha civilisation.'
vi lisa ti 0 n. '
Tendret, the
Lucien Tendret,
Lucien the great-nephew
great-nephew of of Brillat-Savarin, Jean Richepin makes
Jean Richepin makes aa practical
practical point point in his poem,
in his
created aa few gastronomical aphorisms in his book La Table A rable:
À Table:
au pays de de Brillat-Savarin.
Brillat-Savarin. They are, are, no doubt, less famous
no doubt. Est-on dix, yy compris
Est-on compris la lafamille,
famille. on se serrel
se serre!
than those of the author author of Physiologie
Physiologie du gottt, but aa few
&t goût, few ofof Mais pas trop
ftop cependant, et et sans être
Atre à I'dtroit
d l'étro;1
them deserve to be
them be quoted here: II
Il faut l'air aux
faut qu'on ait de "air aux coudes.
coudes, elet le droit
'Cuisine is
'Cuisine both an
is both an artart and
and aa science.
science. Il It isis an
an artart when
when it it I'on veul,
bavardant, si l'on
De faire en bavardant, gestes;
veut, de grands r;?estes;
strives to to bring
bring aboutabout the the realisation
realisation of of the
the truetrue andand thethe Grignotis de profil,les
Grignotés sont indig~stes.
mets SOnl
profil, les mets indigestes. .
beautiful, called le
beautiful, le bon (the good) in
bon (Ihe in the order of culinary
the order
the family; sit
'We are ten, with the sit closer together!
ideas. As aa science,
science, jt it is analagous
analagous ta to chemistry, physics and and
But not too closely: we don't want la to be
be cramped,
natural history. 1Its
natural ts axioms are called aphorisms, its theorems theorems
We must have elbow room,
We room, and
and be able
recipes, andand its philosophy gastronomy.'
philosophy gastronomy.'
To talk and
Ta and make gestures, ifif we feel inclined;
feel so incllned;
beautiful and
'The beautiful and thethe good are are identical, but the the fleeting picking at
and picking
Sitting sideways and food is courting
at food
impressions created created by by the work of aa cook
the work cook or or aa musician indigestion.' '
indigestion.
disperse even
disperse even as as they
they are are being
being experienced.
experienced. Raphael's
painting The
painting The Transfiguration
Transfiguration is is immortal,
immortal, but but Carême's
Car€me's to Lucien Tendret, he
return to
To return he has
has something ta to say to
say la
Ragottt de
Ragoût truffes àd la parisienne
de truffes parisienne lasts only while
lasts only while it is is being people who
reassure people who think think they
they are doing wrong
are doing in giving
wrong in giving
just as
eaten, Just
eaten, as roses
roses lastlast as long as
as long their fragrance can
as their can he be themselves up toto the
the pleasures of the table:
the ta ble:
enjoyed.' 'The casuists
'The have classed
casuists have gluttony as
classed glutlony as one of Ihe
one of the seven
seven
cook is
'The cook no less than an
is no and even
artist. and
an anist, even jf if he may not
mav not deadly sins,
deadly if itit is not
sins, but if not taioted
tainted by the drinking to
the vice of drink.ing to

36
36
 APHORISMS AND
APHORISMS AND AXIOMS
AXIOMS

The
The Five
Five Senses, painting by
Senses, aa painting D Téniers
by D T6niers

inebriation or eating to excess, it de serves to be

deserves be ranked
ranked with with Appetite and
Appetite and digestion. 'Appetite proclaims
digestion. 'Appetite proclaims itself itself byby aa
the theological virtues.' And- And - slight sensation
slight sensation of of languor
languor in in the stomach, and
the stomach, feeling of
and aa feeling of
'Those who have aa profound profound indifference to to the
the pleasures tiredness.'
tiredness.'
of the table are are generally
generally gloomy, charmless charmless and and unamiable.' 'Digestion isis an
'Digestion an absolutely function, and
mechanical function,
absolutely mechanical the
and the
Apothegms.
Apothegms. APOPHTEGMES APoPHTEGMEs GOURMANDS couRMANDs- - The
The aaphorisms
phorisms of of digestive organs
digestive organs can can be thought of
be thought of as mill equipped
as aa mill equipped with with
Brillat-Savarin
Brillat-savarin are are known
known throughout
throughout the world. Much
the world. Much less less sieves.'
sieves.'
known are are the gastronomical
gastronomical apothegms apothegms which which the author of
the author of 'To understand
'To digestion as
understand digestion whole, itit must
as aawhole, must be be linked with
linked with
Physiologie
Physiologie du du goût
goftt has
has set forth on
set forth on the philosophy of
the philosophy of the
the food and
food and itsits consequences.'
consequences.'
table: 'Digestion, of
'Digestion, all the
of ail the bodily functions, isis the
bodily functions, the one which
one which
Cookery.
Cookery. 'Cooking 'Cooking is is one
one of of the
the oldest
oldest arts,arts, and
and one which
one which exercises
exercises the greatest influence
the greatest influence on on the mental state
the mental state ofof anan
has
has rendered
rendered us us the most important
the most important service service in civil life.'
in civillife.' individual.'
individual.'
'The
'The science
science which which feeds
feeds menmen isis worth
worth at at least
least asas much
much as as 'Some people
'Sorne people are are inin aa bad
bad temper
temper while digestion isis in
while digestion in
the
the one one which
which teaches
teaches how how to kill them.'
to kjll them.' progress; itit isis therefore
progress; therefore not not the time either
the time either to to suggest
suggest pro-pro-
'Once
'Once fire fire waswas discovered,
discovered, the the instinct
instinct for for improvement
improvement jects or
jects to ask
or to favours of
ask favours of them.'
them.'
made
made men men bring bring foodfood to to it,
it, inin the
the first
first place
place to to dry
dry it,it, and
and 'Theory and
'Theory andexperience
experience both prove that
both prove that the quality and
thequality and
afterwards
afterwards to to puputt on
on the
the fire
fire to to cook.'
cook.' quantity of
quantity food have
of food powerful influence
have aa powerful influence on work.'
onwork.'
'Cookery
'Cookery made made greatgreat progress
progress when when fire-resisting
fire-resisting vesselsvessels 'A'A badly nourished man
badly nourished mancannot adequatelycope
cannot adequately copewithwith the
the
in
in bronze
bronze or or clay
clay appeared.'
appeared.' effort of
effort continuous work
of continuous work for for any length of
any length oftime.'
time.'
'Meals,
'Meals, in in thethe sense
sense in in which
which we we understand
understand the word,
the word, Obesityand
Obesity and Thinness.
Thinness. 'Obesity neverfound
'Obesity isisnever foundamong among the the
began
began with with the the second
second age age ofof thethe hurnan
human species.'
species.' savages or
savages or among
among the theclasses
classesof ofsociety wherethe
society where people have
thepeople have
'In
'In the
the state
state of of society
society in in which
which we we now
now find ourselves, itit isis
find ourselves, to work totoeat,
towork andwhere
eat, and where theytheyonlyonlyeat live.'
eattotolive.'
difficult
difficult to to imagine
imagine aa nation
nation whichwhich livedlived solely
solely on on bread
breadand and 'Thinness isis not
'Thinness greatdrawback
not aagreat drawbackfor for men,
men,but butititisisaa
vegeta
vegetables.'bles. ' dreadful misfortune for
dreadful misfortune for women.'
women.'
Gourmandism
G ourmandism and and Gourmands.
Gourmands.''Gourmand G ottmandism ism isisananarden
ardent, t, Foods.
Foods.'By 'By foods
foodsone meanssubstances
onemeans substanceswhich, introduced
which, introduced
rational
rational and and habituai
habitual preference
preference for for things
things whichwhichflatter
flatter the the into
into thethestomach,
stomach, can canbe assimilated by
beassimilated digestion,and
bydigestion, restore
andrestore
taste.'
taste.' the
theenergy
energy lost lost by
bythe human body.'
thehuman body.'
'From
'From whatever
whatever point point of of view
view you you looklook atatgourmandism,
gourmandism, 'Wewere
'We were not notsatisfied
satisfiedwithwith the qualitiesnature
thequalities naturegave gavetoto
itit deserves
deserves nothing nothing but but praise
praise and andencouragement.'
encouragement.' poultry;art
poultry; artstepped
stepped in, in,and underthe
andunder pretextof
thepretext ofimproving
improving
'Gourmandism
'Gourmandism isisone one of of the
the main
main links
links uniting
uniting society.'
society.' fowls,
fowls, made martyrs of
made martyrs ofthem.'
them.'
'If
'If there
there are are gastronomes
gastronomes by by predestination,
predestination, then thentherethereare are 'Poultryisisfor
'Poultry forcookery
cookerywhat canvasisisfor
whatcanvas painting, and
forpainting, andthethe
also
also sorne
some by bycircurnstance.'
circumstance.' cap
capof ofFortunatus
Fortunatusfor charlatans.ItItisisserved
forcharlatans. servedtotoususboiled,boiled,
Taste.
Taste.'Taste
'Taste isissimple
simple in inits
itsaction,
action, thatthatisistotosay,say, ititcannot
cannot roast,hot
roast, hotororcold, wholeororininportions,
cold,whole portions,with withororwithout
without
react
react to to two
twoflavours
flavours atatonce.'
once.' sauce,
sauce,and andalways
alwayswith withequal
equalsuccess.'
success.'
'Man's
'Man's palate,
palate, by by the
thedelicacy
delicacy of ofits its texture
textureand andof ofthe the 'Three
'Threelandslandsof ofancient
ancientFrance contestthe
France contest honourofofpro-
thehonour pro-
various
various membranes
membranes that thatsurround
surround it, it,gives
gives sufficient
sufficient proofproof ducing
ducingthe thebest poultry:Caux,
bestpoultry: Caux,Le Mansand
LeMans andBresse.'
Bresse.'
ofof the thesublimity
sublimity of offunctions
functions for forwhich
which ititwas wasintended.'
intended.' 'Turkeyisisundoubtedly
'Turkey undoubtedly one oneof thebest
ofthe giftsthat
bestgifts thatthe New
theNew

37
37
APHTONITUS
APHTONITUS

APHTONITUS -- One of tbe the seven chefs of Ancient

seven great cbefs
Greece. He invented the pudding.
pudding.
APICIUS -- There There were
were three Romans by
three Romans the name
by the name of
Apicius. Ali All three werewere famous, not not for their genius,
genius, their
virtues, or their great qualities, but for their gluttony and
virtues,
achievements in the gastronomical
achievements gastronomical art.
The first lived
The first lived under Sulla, the
under Sulla, second under
the second under Augustus
Tiberius, and the third under Trajan. It is
and Tiberius, is the second
Apicius
Apicius who is the most most famous, and it is ofhim of him that Seneca,
Seneca,
Pliny, Juvenal
Pliny, Juvenal and MartialMartial have spoken spoken so much. Athenaeus
sa ys that he spent immense
says immense sums to satisfy his gluttony and
that
tha t he invented several kinds of of cakes which bear his name.
Seneca,
Seneca, who was bis contemporary, tells us that he ran a sort
his contemporary,
of school of 'good 'good fare'.
fare'. He adds adds that Apicius, having got
into heavy debt,debt, was at last forced to examine examine the state of of his
affairs, and that, seeing seeing he had only 250,000 Roman pounds
left (some authors
left (sorne authors say forty
say fort million sesterces,
y million about an
sesterces, about
income of €80,000), he poisoned himself, fearing that such a
of f80,000),
sum would not be enough for him to live on.
Pliny often speaks speaks of ragofits which Apicius invented,
of the ragoûts
and calls them nepotum omnium omnium altissimus
altissimus gurges.
The third Apicius lived under Trajan. Having invented a
secret method of preserving oysters, oysters, he managed
managed to deliver
sorne
some very fresh on es to the Emperor,
ones Emperor, who was busy fighting
the Parthians at the time.
The name Apicius was
The was not not only given to
only given to cakes
cakes but but to
several kind of sauces.
There
There exists, under the name of of Coelius Apicius,
Apicius, a treatise
De re
De re culinaria, printed for the first first time
tirne inin Milan (1498);
(1a98);
the cri tics do not think, however, that it was written by
critics any
byany
of the three men named named Apicius. Martin Lister produced a
magnificent edition
magnificent edition of of this
this book entitld De
book entitled De obsonus
obsonus et
condimentis,
condimentis, sive de arte coquinaria
coquinardc (London 1705), of which
1705), ofwhich
125 copies were printed.printed.
However, the first edition, which is undated, seems to be
than the
older than
older the Milan edition. It It was
was printed in in Venice by
Bernardus de de Vitalibus,
Vitali bus, and comprises fort fortyy quarto pages,
thirty-two of which constitute
the first thirty-two constitute Apicius's book.
But the latest edition, aa remarkable
remarkable summary of the Dix DLx
livres de
livres de cuisine d'Apicius is
cuisine d'Apicius is that
that of of Bertrand
Bertrand GuéganGu€gan
(published by René Ren€ Bonnel, Paris, 1933). 1933).
To return to to Marcus Gavius Apicius, it it is interesting
interesting to
note sorne
note some of his his discoveries.
discoveries. To To improve sows' livers, he
sows' livers,
fattened them them with dried dried figs, gave them
figs, gave them honeyed
honeyed wine wine to
drink, then
drink, then suddenly slaughtered them without warning.
them without warning.
When camel was on the menu he only had the most delicate
part served up -- the heel.
World
W orld has made to the 0Old.' Id. '
Did Imperial Rome have her gastronomes in the strictest
'Game provides the
'Game the delights
delights of our table; it it isis healthy, sense
sense ofthis word, and were
of this word, illustrious personages, whose
were the illustrious
rich,
rich, savoury food, excellent in
savoury food, in taste
taste and
and easy
easy to to digest,
digest,
prowess
prowess at table history or legend, real
described in history
table has been described
especially
especially when young.'
'Under the direction of an able connoisseurs of culinary matters? On
connoisseurs this point
On this point Carême,
Car6me,
able chef, game goesgoes through
who made a profound study of of the history
history ofof ancient Rome,
many skilful modifications and
many skilful and transformations,
transformations, and and pro-
says that Roman cookery cookery was was'fundamentally
'fundamentally barbaric'.
barbaric'.
vides most of
vides most of the
the full-flavoured dishes which constitute
dishes which constitute
What
What the the historians tell us
historians tell us of of the three men
the three men named
named
cuisine.'
superlative cuisine.'
'The taste ofof a Périgord partridge is not the same as that
P6rigord partridge
Apicius leadsleads us to agree with Carême.
us to Car6me. The The Roman
Roman table
tha t of
certainly sumptuous and magnificent,
was certainly magnificent, in the spectacular
spectacular
Sologne partridge.'
aa Sologne
'If the sense, but it was not at ail all refined.
'If the garden warbler
warbler were
were thethe size
size ofof aa pheasant,
pheasant, it
at the family, governed the
the Apicius family,
Rome, at
Rome, the time of the
would most certainly
certainly cost as much as an an acre of land.'
whole world, at any rate the world as it was then known. known. She
'The quail is the sweetest and the nicest of game birds. It It dictated her
dictated her lawslaws toto distant provinces.
provinces. From From thesethese sub-
is an act of ignorance to serve it in any way except roasted.' jugated provinces she
jugated received great
she received great quantities
quantities of various
'A woodcock glory only when
woodcock is in its full glory when roasted actually
roasted actually
food products.
food products. Gallia Gallia Narbonensis sent her pork.
sent her pork. Africa
before the eyes of
before of the hunter; above ail, all, the hunter who shot
it.' and Asia sent
and Asia sent delectable foods foods which the Roman cooks,
the Roman
'In the trained by the Greeks, Greeks, prepared in lavish manner.
'In the hands
hands of an an able
able cook,
cook, fish
fish can
can become
become an an in-
exhaustable
exhaustable source of delight.' APONOGETONACEAE.
APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONSApoNocEroNs -- Flowering rush
'The smelt is is the garden warbler of the water; the the same represented by one genus, Aponogeton
family, represented Aponogeton. Their leaves
smallness, the same high flavour, the same superiority.' float on the surface of the water,
water. rather like waterlilies.

38
 APPERT
APPERT

The Aponogeton
The distachyas isis widely
Aponogeton distachyus widely cultivated
cultivated inin the
the The only
The only document
document that that has has been been found found relating
relating toto
temperate of Europe.
parts of
temperate parts For sorne
Europe. For some years now itit has
years now has be-
be- Appert's civil
Appert's civil state
state isis his
his death
death certificate,
certificate, although although we we do do
come completely
come completely naturalised
naturalised atat Montpellier,
Montpellier, where
where ils its know that
know that he he was born in
was born in Châlons,
Chdlons, in in the Marne, in
the Marne, in 1750.
1750.
young shoots
young shoots are
are eaten and calied
eaten and called Cape
Cape asparagus.
asparagns. TheThe Whether itit was
Whether was Châlons-sur-Marne
Chdlons-sur-Marne or or Châlons-sur-Vesle
Chdlons-sur-Vesle
common names
common for this
names for plant are
this plant are Cape weed and
Cape pond weed and water
water remains aa mystery.
remains mystery.
hawthorn.
hawthorn. His father
His father was wine merchant
was aa wine merchant in in the
the Champagne
Champagne region, region,
APOPHORETAA -- Name given given by and Nicolas
and Nicolas began began work work with with him,him, corking
corking bottles. bottles.
APOPHORET by the
the ancient
ancient Romans
Romans to to
gifts which
the gifts which the Then he
Then moved on
he moved on toto learn
learn the culinary art
the culinary art as cook at
as aacook at the
the
the the host
host made to his
made to for members
guests for
his guests members of of
their families.
families. These gifts were
These gifts of great
often of
were often great value.
value. They
They
court of
court of Christian
Christian IV. IV. He He also worked in
also worked in several
several brasseries
brasseries
their
precious dishes and private households.
and private households. Finally Finally when when he he was about thirty
was about thirty
were mostly precious or vases which had
dishes or had been
been used at
used at
the feast.
feast. Sometimes
Sometimes the
years old
years (about 1780)
old (about 1780) he he setset upup as confectioner in
as aa confectioner in rueruedes des
the the slaves who served
slaves who served at table were
at table were also
also
presented to Lombards, Paris.
Lombards, Paris.
presented to the
the guests.
guests.
Appert became
Appert became deeply deeply interested
interested in in the preparation of
the preparation of
APOTHECA. lpornEcn- Roman name
APOTIIECA. APOTHÉCA- room, situated
of a room,
name ofa situated food products. He
food products. He soonsoon realised
realised the the inadequacy
inadequacy and and dis-dis-
under the roof of
the roof of aa house,
house, so
so arranged that the
arranged that the smoke
smoke ofof advantages of
advantages of contemporary
contemporary methods methods of of preservation,
preservation, and and
various fireplaces passed with the sole
passed through it, with sole purpose of
purpose of himself the
set himself
set the task
task ofof investigating
investigating new new ones. ones.
boiling down
boiling down the
the famous
famous Caecu
Caecubum wine to
bum wine to the
the desired
desired In 1810,
In 1810, in in order
order to to bring
bring his invention to
his invention to the notice of
the notice of the
the
consistency.
syrupy consistency. public, Appert
public, Appert published
published lele Livre Livre de de tous tous les les ménages
mdnages ou ou
to mature.
This wine took at least fifteen years to I'Art de
l'Art de conserver
conserver pendantpendant plusieurs
plusieurs années anndes toutes toutes les les sub-
sub-
stances animales et
stances animales vigitales ('The
et végétales ('The Manual
Manual for for Every
Every House-House-
APPAREIL -- In
APPAREIL In French culinary
culinary terminology
terminology this
this word
word isis
used to describe mixed preparations that go into the making
go into making
hold or
hold or the
the ArtArt of of Preserving
Preserving ail all Varieties
Varieties of of Animal
Animal and and
of dishes. For example, Vegetable Substances
Vegetable Substances for for Several
Several Years').
Years').
of dishes. For the following
example, the following terms
terms areare used:
souffii (soufflé
appareil àd soufflé (souffi€ mixture); appareil He wrote: 'My
He wrote: 'My method
method isis not not aa vain theory; itit isis the
vain theory; fruit
the fruit
appareil appareil àd biscuit (sponge
biscuit (sponge
mixture); appareil àd crème
crime renversée (custard mixture),
renversie (custard mixture), etc.
of late
of late nights,
nights, much much deep thinking and
deep thinking and research,
research, and and in- in-
mixture); etc.
numerable experiments.'
numerable experiments.'
APPELLATIONS D'ORIGINE -- According
APPELLATIONS According to to French Most probably Appert
Most probably Appert intuitively
intuitively recognised
recognised the the destruc-
destruc-
legislation the
legislation label of
the label of aa controlled
controlled winewine must
must bear
bear anan tive action
tive action of of heat
heat onon the 'ferments' that
the 'ferments' that alteralter animal
animal and and
appellation d'origine; that is to say the name of
appellation of the viticultural vegetable substances.
substances. He He realised
realised that that if if itit were possible to
were possible to
area to which it belongs. destroy or
destroy attenuate the
or attenuate the effect
effect of of these 'ferments' by
these 'ferments' by heating
heating
d'origine are
Appellations d'origine are divided into two
divided into two categories:
categories: sufficiently, and
them sufficiently, and afterwards
afterwards succeed succeed in preventing other
in preventing other
contrdlie (A.O.C.) and
appellation d'origine contrôlée and vins dilimitds de
vins délimités de 'ferments' from
'ferments' from beingbeing introduced
introduced into into the the substance,
substance, the the
qualiti supérieure
qualité (V.D.Q.S.). The
supirieure (V.D.Q.S.). first and
The first and superior group
superior group conservation of
conservation of the
the latter
latter wouldwould be prolonged, ifif not
be prolonged, not in- in-
consists of wines
consists of wines belonging
belonging toto the viticultural areas
the viticultural that
areas that definitely, at
definitely, at least
least forfor aa very
very long period. Although
long period. Although this this dis-
dis-
produce wines
wines of great quality and and individuality, following coverywas
co very was not not based
based uuponpon scientific
scientific theory,
theory, Appert managed
Appertmanaged
traditional methods.
traditional methods. The The latter is aa secondary
latter is group of
secondary group of through empirical
through (rule-of-thumb) methods
empirical (rule-of-thumb) methods to to perfect
perfect aa
controlled wines belonging to to viticultural
viticultural areas that have
areas that system of
system of food
food preservation
preservation which which in principle isis little
in principle little dif-
dif-
earned aa reputation forfor their general
general quality while
while not
not pro- ferent from
ferent from that that employed
employed in in manufacturing
manufacturing processes processes
ducing wines of
ducing of su ch individual characteristics as those of
such of the today.
first group. Encouraged by
Encouraged by official
official approval,
approval, Appert gave gave up up hishis con-
con-
fectionery business
fectionery business and and occupied
occupied himself himself exclusively
exclusively with with
experiments; these
experiments; these at at length
length proved proved the validity of
the validity of hishis
theories.
ln 1794
In 1794 he settled
settled in in Ivry-sur-Seine.
lvry-sur-Seine. In In 1804,
1804, withwith the the help
help
of sorne
of financial backing, he
some financial he acquired
acquired aa piece piece of of land
land of of 44
hectares (10
hectares (10 acres)
acres) at at Massy
Massy in in Seine-et-Oise,
Seine-et-Oise, and and builtbuilt aa
factory. ThisThis he equipped
equipped with with what to to us us would
would seem seem rather
rather
Nicolas Appert
primitive machinery. He He employed
employed about about fifty fifty workers.
workers.
Scientific
Scientific controversies
controversies arose arose overover Appert's
Appert's discovery,
discovery, and and
it was
it was not not until
until Pasteur
Pasteur arrivedarrived on on the the scene scene that that aa satis-
satis-
factory explanation was
factory was reached.
Massy
Massy was destroyed destroyed by by thethe Allies
Allies in in 1814.
1814.
Although old old and practically penniless,
and practically penniless, Appert Appert did did notnot
give up.
give up. In In 1817
l8l7 he he settled
settled in in rue
rue Cassette,
Cassette, in in Paris,
Paris, and and
managed to
managed to obtain
obtain premises
premises in in rue rue Moreau Moreau from from the the
government. There There he he resumed the application application of of his
his manu-
manu-
facturing processes
facturing processes on aa large large scale.
scale.
APPERT -- It is impossible to explain how so many people people The last years of his Iife, life, like his early years, years, are are something
something
(including the authors of the first edition of this dictionary) of aa mystery. He He died
died in in extreme
extreme poverty poverty on on 1I June
June 1840. 1840.
committed thethe error of naming
naming Frangois
François Appert in this
Appert in In 1852, Chevallier-Appert
In Chevallier-Appert took up up where the the other
other had had left
left
context, when it ought
context, when ought to be Nicolas -- at least according
according to a off.
short report in
short report in I'Encyclopidie du XD(
universelle du
l'Encyclopédie universelle XIX" siècle
siicle He was
He Appert's successor
was Appert's successor and and he he perfected
perfected Appert's Appert's
(1858
(1858 edition, published
published eighteen
eighteen years
years after the
the death
death of ideas. He had had the idea idea of putting canned foods foods in in the
the auto-
auto-
Charles-Nicolas Appert).
Charles-Nicolas clave (q.v.), which
clave (q.v.), which up up to to then
then had had been been used used for for entirely
entirely
His biography is is so vague that we prefer to repeat what different purposes. He raised the temperature to aa high level.
different purposes. level.
the canners
the canners themselves
themselves have to say about him. Since it was was necessary to to know the the temperature inside inside the the
About a a hundred
hundred and sixt Y years
and sixty ago, the
years ago, the Frenchman
Frenchman autoclave during
autoclave during the the operation
operation in in order
order to to preserve
preserve the the
Nicolas
Nicolas Appert
Appert discovered
discovered how to to preserve
preserve food products
products by quality of the
quality the canned
canned foods,foods, Chevallier-Appert
Chevallier-Appert devised devised aa
the action
the action of
of heat. pressure gauge as as weil.
well.

39
39
APPETENCE
APPETENCE

Calville Blanc apple

Reinette du Canada apple Richared

Richared apple (Pomona)
apple (Pomona) Stark Jaugrines apple
Stark Jaugrines (Pomona)
apple (Pomona)

lppfrsNcE -- A
APPETENCE. APPÉTENCE A feeling which
which brings desire
desire Calville, in
Calville, particular Calville
in particular Calville Blanc, irregular in
Blanc, irregular in shape
shape
for food; this is the first stage for appetite. with more or or less prominent
less pro minent sidessides and pronounced 'shoul-
and pronounced 'shoul-
ders', is
ders', is gradually
gradually disappearing,
disappearing, but still has
but still has sorne
some adherents
adherents
APPf,TIT
APPÉTIT -- Common
Common na for chives
me for
name in French.
chives in French. (See
on account
on account of of its
its very
very delicate flavour. These
delicate Bavour. different
These different
CHIVES.)
varieties of
varieties of apples
apples keepkeep the the market
market weil well su supplied
pp lied fromfrom
APPETITE.
APPETITE. APPÉTIT Appfrlr -- Psychologists define
define under thethe term September
September to April or
to April May. French
or May. production isis important
French production important
natural.appetite
natural,appetite the tendencies which which instinctively cause
cause us both quantitatively and
both quantitatively qualitatively, and
and qualitatively, and isis complemented
complemented
to needs of the body.
to satisfy the needs by apples
by imported from
apples irnported Italy and
from Italy Holland. During
and Holland. During the the
In physiology
physiology appetite is is defined
defined asas sometrung
something rather dif-dif- season France
season France exportsexports her her excess
excess (the(the golden
golden varieties
varieties
hunger. Hunger
ferent from hunger. Hunger in in reality
reality is
is nothing more than especially)
especially) to to Germany
Germany and and Great
Great Britain. Imports are
Britain. Imports are also
also
the need
need to eat, whereas appetite is the lure of of pleasure which
which received fromfrom the the southern
southern hemisphere
hemisphere in April, May
in April, May and and
whilst eating, brought about
one experiences whilst about by aa particular June,
June, when
when stocksstocks of of French
French apples
apples are
are exhausted.
exhausted.
condition of the organism. The
The apple,
apple, like like the grape, isis one
the grape, one of our choicest
of our choicest dessert
dessert
The sensation
sensation of hunger, which develops at at regular meal- fruits. It
fruits. It isis rich
rich inin assimilable
assimilable mineraIs
minerals -- calcium,
calcium, copper,
copper,
times
times inin civilised
civilised people,
people, sometirnes disappears if itit is
sometimes disappears is not
not iron,
iron, magnesium
magnesium and and potassium
potassium -- and and contains Vitamins BB
contains Vitamins
satisfied at the usual
usual hour.
hour. The
The appetite
appetite isis stimulated
stimulated by the
the and
and C,
C, and
and tannin.
tannin. Apples
Apples are are used
used in in the preparation of
the preparation of
sight and smell of food; bitter substances
substances frequently awaken
awaken numerous
numerous sweet sweet dishes,
dishes, preserves,
preserves, etc.,etc., and
and in in the
the manu-
manu-
lost appetite by releasing digestive
digestive secretions.
secretions. facture
facture ofof pastries
pastries and and apple
apple sugar
sugar in in confectionery.
confectionery. They They
In certain psycruc
psychic and
and mental cases,
cases, appetite
appetite can
can degener-
degener- are
are also
also pressed
pressed and and used
used in in the
the alembic
alembic to to give
give cider,
cider, from
from
ate into
into aa craving for offensive
offensive and
and non-edible substances.
substances. which
which isis derived
derived Calvados.
Calvados.
The opposite ofappetite
The is anorexia,
of appetite is anorexia, wruch
which means
means distaste
distaste Bakd apples
Baked apples in in pastry
pastry or or douiJIon
douillon normand.
normand. RABOTTES
RABoTTES DE DE
for food. poMMEs OU
POMMES ou DOUILLON
DOUILLoN NORMANDNoRMAND -- ChooseChoose big big sound
sound baking
baking
apples
apples and
and corecore them,
them, to to remove
remove the central part
the central part containing
containing
APPIGRET -- An
APPIGRET An old
old French
French word
word which
which Rabelais
Rabelais used
used to
to the
the pips.
pips. Make
Make aa circular incision round
circular incision round the the rniddle,
middle, to pre-
to pre-
define
define gravy, juice, seasoning.
BraW, juice, seasoning.
APPLE. poMME - AppIes
APPLE. POMME - Apples are are the fruit
fruit of
of aa tree
tree belonging
belonging to to
the family Rosaceae.
the Rosaceae.
The
The numerous varieties
varieties of of apples
apples areare divided
divided into
into cooking
cooking
and
and eating
eating apples.
apples.
The
The best
best dessert
dessert apples
apples among
among the American varietiesvarieties are:
are:
Golden
Golden Delicious,
Delicious, golden
golden yellow
yellow in in colour,
colour, truncated
truncated in in
shape,
shape, with
with aa delicate juice, very
delicate juice, very tasty
tasty fiesh,
flesh, eaten
eaten between
between
October
October and April; Red
and April; Red Delicious, Starking
Starking Delicious
Delicious and and
Richared,
Richared, truncated in in shape,
shape, inin varying
varying shades
shades of of dark
dark red,
red,
keeping
keeping weil
well until March. Among
until March. Among the the varieties
varieties of of French
French
origin are: Reine
origin are: Reine des
des reinettes,
reinettes, early
early variety,
variety, yellow
yellow streaked
streaked
with russet; Reinette du
russet; Reinette &t Canada,
Canada, rough-skinned,
rough-skinned, yellowish-
yellowish-
green
green with
with brown
brown spots,
spots, mid-season
mid-season variety
variety keeps
keeps weilwell if
if itit
has
has been grown at
been grown at aa high altitude; Reinette
high altitude; Reinette du du Mans
Mans and and
Reinette
Reinette Clochard, late varieties
Clochard,late varieties both
both cultivated
cultivated in in the
the Loire
Loire
valley.
vallev. Baked
Baked apples
apples in
in pastry
pastry

40
40
 APPLE
APPLE

vent their
vent bursting. Fill
their bursting. Fill the
the middle, hollowed out
middle, hollowed out by
by the
the following recipe:
following recipe: 'Scald
'Scald 650 g. (l+
650 g. (l-l: lb.) chestnuts, remove
lb.) chestnuts, remove the
the
corer, with
corer, with butter kneaded with
butter kneaded sugar (and
wilh sugar (and with pinch of
wilh aa pinch of shells and the
shells and inner grey
the inner skin, put
grey skin, them into
put them pan with
into aa pan with aa
cinnamon, ifif desired).
cinnamon, desired). vanilla bean and
vanilla bean and enough milk (previously
enough milk boiled) to
(previously boiled) to cover
coyer
Enclose
Enclose eachapple Lining pas/e (see DOUGH),
a piece ofLiningpaste(w
each apple inin apiec,eof DOUGH), completely. Simmer
them completely.
them gently for
Simmer gently 45 to
for 45 50 minutes.
to 50 minutes.
rolled
rolled out
oUi not
nol too Put aa little
Ihick. Put
100 thick. circlet of
little circlet paste (cut
of paste (eut out
out 'Core and peel
'Core and 10 medium-sized
peel 10 apples. Cook
medium-sized apples. Cook them them inin aa
with on top
culler) on
fluted-edgcd cutter)
with aa fluted-edged top ofof each Brush with
apple. Brush
each apple. with light syrup, strongly
light syrup, with vanilla;
fiavoured with
strougly flavoured enough for
vanilla; itit isis enough for
beaten egg
beaten and score
egg and oUlside of
the outside
score the of the
the apples lightly with
apples lightly with aa the pulp just
the pulp just to be softened.
to be softened.
knife.
knife. 'Shred about
'Shred about 15 15 almonds them until
roast them
and roast
almonds and until they
they go
go
Bake in aa moderate
Bake moderate oven oyen fromfrom 25 25 to to 3030 minutes.
minutes. ServeServe slightly yellow (not
slightly yellow brown). Add
(not brown). Add to them 50
to them 50 g. g. (2
(2 o2.,3
oz., 3
piping
piping hot. hot. tablespoons) coarsely
tablespoons) crumbled marrons
coarsely crumbled marrons glacis.
glacés.
Note.
NOie. The apples apples can be be peeled
pecled before before being being putput into
into 'Make aa cream with
'Make wilh 150 150 g.g. (5 cup) castor
oz., 3~ cup)
(5 oz., castor sugar'
sugar,
pastry.
paslry. They can also be cooked first
be cooked first as for Apples Apples bonnebonne egg yolks,
44 egg l|
yolks, 11 tablespoons
tablespoons (2 tablespoons) flour
(2 tablespoons) flour andand 44 dl.dl.
femme (see below).
femme below). In ln that case the
that case baking will
the baking will only
only taketake (}
ct pint, seant 2
pint, scant vanilla-flavoured, boiled
cups) vanilla-flavoured,
2 cups) boiled milk.milk. After
After
minutes. Lining
15 minutes.
15 Lining pastepaste can be replaced by
be replaced by left-over
left-over pieces
pieces boiling
boiling this cream for
this cream for I1 minute, remove from
minute, remove from the the heat
heat and
and
of puff
of puff pastry.
pastry. incorpora te 2
incorporate tablespoons (3
2 tablespoons tablespoons) butter.
(3 tablespoons) butter. Do Do notnot
Apptes bonne femme.
Apples bonne femme. PoMMEs
POMMES BoNNE BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Make Make a lightlight allow to
allow to boil again. Rub
boil again. Rub the the chestnuts through aa sieve,
chestnul~ through sieve, putput
circular incision
circular incision round round thethe middle
middle of sorne baking
of some apples, and
baking apples, this puree
this purée intoa sauté pan,
into a saut6 pan, andand addadd 125125 g.g. (4(4 oz-,l
oz., 1 "up)
cup)
core them.
them. castor sugar sugar and and l+ dl. (t
It dl. pint, J1cup)
(i pint, cream. Stir
cup) cream. Stir on on the fire
the tire
Put themthem in a buttered ovenproof dish. Fill
buttered ovenproof middle of
Fill the middle of for minutes, and
for 22 minutes, spread on
and spread on aa dish.
dish.
each apple with with a little butter
butter mixed with with fine castorcastor sugar.
sugar. 'Place
'Place the the well-drained
well-drained apples apples on on this chestnut puree,
this chestnut purée, pour
pour
tablespoons of
Pour a few tablespoons water into the
ofwater the dish, bake gently in
bake gently in the
the creamcream over them, and
over them, sprinkle with
and sprinkle with thethe almond
almond and and
the oyen and serve in the same dish.
the oven dish. chestnut mixture.'
mixture.'
Apples Bourdaloue.
Apples Bourdaloue. PoMMEs BOURDALOUE -
POMMES BouRDALoue - Poach apples,
apples, Apples ffamb6
Apples flambé au kirsch (or
au kirsch (or other
other liqueurs).
liqueurs). PoMMES POMMES
who le, halved or quartered, in
whole, in syrup,
syrup, as as described in in the rrmrmfrs
FLAMBÉES AU There are
KIRSCH -- There
AU KIRscH are two ways of
two ways of preparing
preparing this Ihis
recipe for Apricots Bourdaloue (see
Apricols Bourdaloue (see APRICOT).
APRICOT). dish.
dish.
butter, marmalade
Apple butter,
Apple marmalade - See See JAM, JAM, Apple Apple ielly;
jel/y; 1. Core cooking
1. apples, peel
cooking apples, them and
peel them poach in
and poach in aa light,
light,
MARMALADE,
MARMALADE, Appil, Apple marmalade.
marmalade. vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain them, put
Drain them, put into
into aa silver timbale
silver timbale
Buttered apples. PoMMEs POMMES AU BEURRE BEURRE - - Peel and core sorne some or
or an aven pro of china
an ovenproof china or glass dish.
or glass Sprinkle with
dish. Sprinkle with kirsch,
kirsch,
baking apples and parboil for 2 minutes
baking minutes in boiling water with
boiling water with heat, and
heat, and set set alight just before
alighl just serving.
before serving.
a dash of lemon juice
of lemon juice added to il. it. Drain the apples, put put them 2. Put
2. Put thethe peeled
peeled and and cored apples into
cored apples into aa buttered
buttered dish.dish.
in aa buttered
in buttered ovenproof dish, dish, sprinkle with fine sugar,
wilh fine Sprinkle with
Sprinkle sugar and
with sugar melted butter,
and melted and bake
butter, and slowly in
bake slowly in
moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons ofwaterof water (or light syrup) and and the oyen.
oven.
cook gently in the oyen. oven. Transfer the
Transfer apples to
the apples to aa silver
silver timbale
timbale or or anan ovenproof
ovenproof
Serve each apple apple on aa round croûton cro0ton of bread bread which has china or
china or glass
glass dish,
dish, sprinkle
sprinkle with with kirsch,
kirsch, andand setset alight just
alight just
fried in
been fried in butter.
butter. Dilute the the pan juices.with
juices with aa few table- before serving.
spoons of water, add a little butter butter and pour over the apples. Note. Apple
NOIe. Apple flambé
flamb6 can also be
can also set alight
be set with brandy,
alight with brandy,
Apples
Apptes au chambertin. POMMES PoMMEs AU cHAMBERTn -- Peel
AU CHAMBERTIN Peel andand raspberry eau-de-vie, Calvados, quetsche, rum,
Calvados, quetsche, rum, or or any
any other
other
core several apples. apples. PoachPoach them in in sweetened ChambertinChambertin liqueur with
liqueur with aa high-degree
high-degree alcohol content.
alcohol content.
allowing 300
wine, allowing 300 g.g. sugar per litre (6 (6 oz. per pint, li
per pint, l| cups Apple flan -- See TART, FLAN.
See TART, FLAN.
per quart)
per quart) of wine. wine. Leave
Leave the apples 10
the apples to cool
cool in in this
this syrup.
syrup. Apple fritters -- See
Apple fritters FRITTERS, Dessert
See FRITTERS, (sweet\ fritters.
Dessert (sweel) fril/ers.
Arrange in aa fruit dish or aa limbale. timbale. Boil down down the syrup by
the syrup Apples glacé
Apples glace Ili l'impératrice.
I'imperatrice. POMMES cl.e,ctss À
PoMMEs GLACÉES r'rup6Rl-
A L'IMPÉRA-
half, leave until cold, then pour
half, pour overover the the apples.
apples. -
TRIcE - Using
TRICE Using dessert
dessert apples, poached in
apples, poached in syrup
syrup and and weil
well
charlotte -- See
Apple charlotte CHARLOTTE.
See CHARLOTTE. drained, prepare
drained, prepare as as described
described in in the
the redpe
recipe for for Peaches
Peaches àd
compote -- See
Apple compote COMPOTE.
See COMPOTE. I' impir at ice (see
l'impératrice PEACHES).
(see PEACHES).
Apples
Apptes Condé.
Cond6. POMMESpoMMEs CONDÉ
coNpf -- Prepare
Prepare as described in the
as described the Apple gratin6. POMMES
Apple gratiné. PoMMES GRATINÉES -
cnlrrx6ns - Peel tart apples,
Peel tart apples, eut cut
recipe for
recipe for Apricols
Apricots Condé (see APRICOT).
Condi (see into quarters, and
into quarters, and cookcook in vanilla-flavoured syrup,
in vanilla-flavoured keeping
sYruP, keeping
Apples ili la
Apples la crème
crbme au au kirsch.
kirsch. POMMES
PoMMEs À u CRhlE
r. LA cniun AU lu them fairly firm.
them fairly Drain and
firm. Drain and dry.
dry.
rnscs -- Peel,
KIRSCH Peel, corecore and cook the
and cook the apples
apples in vanilla-flavoured
in aa vanilla-flavoured Arrange in
Arrange in an
an ovenproof
ovenproof dish dish on layer of
on aa layer of apple
apple sauce
sauce
syrup. Leave
syrup. kave 10 to cool
cool inin the
the syrup. Drain, dry
syrup. Drain, dry and
and arrange
arrange prepared as
prepared for aa charlotte
as for charlotte (see CHARLOTTE, Apple
(see CHARLOTTE, Apple
individually in
them individually
them in glass goblets (or
glass goblets (or on fruit dish).
on aa fruit dish). AtAt the
the charloue). Scatter
charlolle). Scatter sorne macaroons on
crushed macaroons
some crushed on top, sprinkle
top, sprinkle
moment top
last moment
last with half-whipped
top with half-whipped fresh fresh cream,
cream, sweetened
sweetened with little melted
with aa little melted butter,
butter, and brown the
and brown top in
the top in aa slow
slow oyen.
oven.
with sugar
with sugar and flavoured with
and flavoured with kirsch. For this
.l/ote. For
NOie. this dish apples can
dish apples also be
can also cut into
be eut quarters and
into quarters and
Note.Apples,
NOIe. prepared as
Apples, prepared described above,
as described above, can can be topped
be topped cooked in
cooked in butter, instead of
butter, instead of being poached in
being poached in syrup.
syrup.
with cream
with flavoured with
cream ftavoured with various
various liqueurs, such such as anisette,
as anisette, Apple jelly - See
ApplejeUy JAMS AND
See JAMS AND JELLlES.
JELLIES-
b€n€dictine, cassis,
bénédictine, raspberry liqueur,
chartreuse, raspberry
cassis, chartreuse, liqueur, rum,rum, etc.
etc. Apple mousse Ild la
Apple mousse la Chantilly.
Chantilly. MOUSSE
MoussE AUX PoMMEs ÀA LA
AUx POMMES LA
Cr6pes stuffed
Crêpes strffed wilb wift apples
apples (apple(apple pallcakes).
pancakes). CRÊPES cnBprs cHANTILLv -- Prepare
CHANTILLY Prepare aa very thick, vanilla-flavoured
fine, thick,
very fine, vanilla-flavoured
rounnfns AUX
FOURRÉES AUx POMMESpoMM.Es - Prepare
- Prepare the (q.v.) in
crdpes (q.v.)
the crêpes in the usual
the usual Apple sauce
Apple sauce (see (see below). Cool the
below). Cool the sauce
sauce and whisk ilit on
and whisk on ice,
ice,
manner and
manner and coat coat them
them withwith concenlrated
concentrated Apple Apple sauce
saace (see(see adding to
adding to itit aa few
few tablespoons
tablespoons freshfresh thick making sure
cream, making
thick cream, sure
below).
below). that the
that mixture does
the mixture not lose
does not its consistency.
lose its consistency. Pour into glass
Pour into glass
Roll the
Roll pancakes or
the pancakes fold them
or fold them in in four.
four. PutPut them
them on on aa goblets or
goblets fruit dish,
or aa fruit piling itit up
dish, piling in aa dome.
up in dome.
baking sheet,
baking sprinkle with
sheet, sprinkle with icing
icing sugar
sugar and and glaze quickly
glaze quickly Top with
Top with vanilla-ftavoured whipped cream,
vanilla-flavoured whipped cream, whisked stiff.
whisked stiff.
in the
in the oyen.
oven. Serve
Serve on on aa folded napkin.
folded napkin. Apple omelette ài la
Apple omelette la normande.
normande. OMELETIE rounnfn AUX
oMsl-errr FOURRÉE lux
Nole. Stuffed
NOIe. Stuffed crêpescr)pes are are usually
usually called pannequets In
called pannequels in poMMEs DITE
POMMES otrn ÀA LA NoRMANon -- Make
LA NORMANDE Make the the omelette
omelette in in the
the
French.
French. manner, using
usual manner,
usual using eggs sweetened with
eggs sweetened with sugar. Just before
sugar. Just before
Apple eroOte.
Apple cro0te. CROÛTEcno0rn AUX PoMMEs -- Poach
AUx POMMES halved or
Poach halved or folding, filI the
folding, fill the omelette with concentrated
omelette wilh concentrated Apple Apple sauce
sauce
quartered apples
quartered apples in in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup, syrup, and prepare as
and prepare as (see bdow)
(sec below) or with tart
or with taft apples, peeled, diced,
apples, peeled, cooked in
diced, cooked in
described
described in in the recipe for
the recipe for Apricol
Apricot crOÛle
crofite (see APRICOT).
(see APRICOT). butter and
butter and sugar,
sugar, and mixed with
and mixed little apple
with aa tittle apple sauce,
sauce, or with
or with
Apples poMMEs FIGARO
Figaro. POM.\lES
Apples Figaro. FIcARo -- Philéas Gilbert glves
Phil€as Gilbert gives thethe thick fresh
thick cream.
fresh cream.

4l
41
APPLE-CORER
APPLE-CO RER

Arrange the
Arrange the omelette
omelette on on aa long
long dish.
dish. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with sugar
sugar pastry to
pastry toenclose
enclose tbe filling completely,
thefilling completely, and andseal
sealthe
theedges,
edges,
andglaze
and glaze with with aaglazing glazing iron iron or or with
with aasalamander.
salamander. moistening tbem
moistening with water.
them with water.
Apple pectin.
Apple pectin. JUS rus DE poMMES- Tbis
DE POMMES - This juice,juice, which
which has has aa Justbefore
Just before serving,
serving, fry fry inin smoking-hot
smoking-hot deep deepfat.fat. Drain
Drain
strongly viscous
strongly consistency, isis used
viscous consistency, used for for preparing
preparing Apple Appte the rissoles
the rissoles and and arrange
arrange them them on on folded
folded napkins.
napkins. Serve
Serve
jelly (see
je/ly (see JAMSJAMS AND AND JELLIES).
JELLIES). kirsch-flavoured Apricot
kirsch-flavoured Apricot sauce
sauce separately
separately (see
(seeSAUCE).
SAUCE).
ItIt isis also
also used used for for preparing
preparing many many other jellies made
other jellies made of of Apple (or
Apple (or other fruit) rissoles
other fruit) rissoles cancanalso
also be prepared using
be prepared using
fruit with
fruit with too too higb high aa water
water content; without su
content; without such addition
an addition
ch an lining paste,
Iining paste, or or ordinary
ordinary brioche
brioche dough,
dough, and and can
can be
be made
made
these jellies
these jellies would would not not have have the the desired
desired consistency,
consistency, and and inin various
various shapes.
shapes.
would run run the the riskrisk of of ferrnenting.
fermenting. Apple sauce. poMMEs - Cook
would
Added in in the proportions, apple
right proportions,
the rigbt juice does
Apple sauce. MARMELADE
MARMELADEDE DEPOMMES - Cook quartered
quartered
Added apple juice does notnot alter
alter apples in
apples little water
inaalittle until soft.
water until soft. Pass through aastrainer.
Passthrough Add
strainer. Add
the flavour of
the flavour of other fruit.
other fruit. pinch of
aa pinch of salt
salt and enoughsugar
and enough sugar toto sweeten. Boildown
sweeten. Boil until
down until
To obtain
To obtain about about 21 2] litres (4| pints,
litres (4!- pints, 51 5] pints)
pints) apple juice,
apple juice, thick. AA squeeze
thick. squeezeof of lemon juice improves
lemon juice improves the thefiavour.
flavour.
cut 36
cut 36 sound
sound apples apples in in quarters,
quarters, without
without peelingpeeling or or coring
coring Apple soufr6. SOUFFLÉ
Apple soufflé. souFFLf AUX poMMES - Prepare
Atrx POMMES - Prepare asasdescribed
described
them, as
them, both the
as both peel and
the peel and the provide aagreat
pips provide
the pips great deal
deal of of in the
in the recipe
recipe for fruit soufflés,
for fruit souffi6s, using
using apple pulp and
apple pulp and cream.
cream.
mucilaginous matter.
mucilaginous matter. Put Put them them in in aa copper
copper pan pan with
with 22 litres
litres (See SOUFFLES, Sweet
(See SOUFFLÉS, souffiis.)
Sweet souffiés.)
(3| pints,
(31 pints, 41 4{ pints)
pints) water.
water. Seal Seal the paniioseiy
the pan (hermetically,
closely (hermetically,
if possible)
possible) and and cook cook on on sustained (not too APPLE-CORER. VIDE-POMMES
APPLE-CORER. vmn-poMMEs -- Tube-shaped
Tube-shaped implement
implement
if sustained heat heat (not too brisk) until
brisk) until
the apple quarters become
apple quarters for taking
for taking the
the cores out of
cores out of apples.
apples.
tbe become soft soft enough
enough to to 'give'
'give' easily
easily when
when
pressed with
pressed with aa finger.finger. APPRET -- In
APPR};T In French
French cookery
cookery this
this word
word means
means aa finished
finished
Pour the
Pour fruit into
the fruit into aa muslin
muslin c10th cloth fixed
fixed over bowl and
over aa bowl and culinary preparation.
culinary preparation.
leave for
leave for sorne
some time; time; the juice will
the juice will drip
drip througb.
through. Do Do notnot press
press
fruit itself in
the fruit in order
order to to hurry
hurry the process. The
the process. juice can APRICOT. ABRICOT
APRICOT. Fruit of
ABRrcor -- Fruit of the apricot tree,
the apricot tree, brought
brought
tbe The juice can be be
used as as indicated in in various
various recipes.
recipes.
from Armenia
from Armenia into into Italy
Italy but
but not
not widely
widely k.nown
known in in Europe
Europe
used
The residue,
residue, i.e., until the
until the fifteentb
fifteenth century.
century.
The i.e., the apple
apple pulp left behind, behind, can can bebe used
used forfor justly famous
preparing Apple
preparing Apple sauce sauce (see below) or
(se,e below) or paste,
paste, and and forfor various
various
The musk
The musk apricot,
apricot, justly famous for for its
its succulent
succulent flesh,
flesh,
sweet flans, flans. loaves
loaves and and soufflés.
souffi6s.
found in
isis found in the
the south
south of of France,
France, Algeria
Algeria and and Spain.
Spain.
sweet In Auvergne,
Apple pie pie -- See See PIE.
In Auvergne, another
another muchmuch prized
prized variety
variety of of apricot
apricot isis
Apple
Apple pudding pudding -- See PUDDING.
See PUDDING.
cultivated for
cultivated for tbe
the high quality of
high quality ofjam
jam which produced from
which isis produced from
Apple
Apples witb with rice. poMrrrrs GRATINÉES
rice. POMMES cn.lrrufrs AU AU RIZRrz -- Prepare
it.
it.
Apples Among the
g. (4 (4 oz., i-! cup) Among the best varieties of
best varieties apricot isis clingstone,
of apricot clingstone, aa species
species
125 g.
125 cup) ricerice as as forfor Dessert rice rice (see RICE). Put
(see RICE). Put
of apricot with
of apricot with white
white flesh
flesh wbich
which adheres
adheres to to the
the stone.
stone. ItIt has
has
it into
it into an an ovenproof
ovenproof dish dish in in layers, alternating with
layers, alternating with 225
225 g. g.
(8 oz.) aa somewhat
somewhat tart tart flavour.
flavour. Peach apricot, aa choice
Peach apricot, fruit, isis
choice fruit,
(8 oz.) apples,
apples, sliced sliced and and cooked
cooked in in butter.
butter. Smooth
Smooth the
much sought
of the top rice layer, layer, and coyer cover with 10 quarters,
l0 apple quarters,
much sought after for the
after for the delicacy
delicacy ofof its flesh; itit is
its flesh; is fragrant,
fragrant,
surface of juicy and
juicy and sweet.
sweet.
cooked in in butter.
butter. SprinkleSprinkle with with crusbed
crushed macaroons and and aa
tablespoon ofmelted of melted butter, and brown the top. Serve
Apricots are
Apricots are one
one ofof the fruits most
the fruits most used used in in pâtisserie.
pdtisserie.
Serve in in the
the
They are
Tbey are used
used in in aa number
number of of preparations,
preparations, including
including sweetsweet
same
sa dish, with kirsch-fla
me dish, kirsch-flavoured voured lpricot
Apricol sauce (see SA SAUCE),
UCE),
courses
courses and and confectionery.
confectionery. They They also
also make
make excellent
excellent tarts,
tarts, as
as
served separa separately. tely.
well as
weIl as delicious compotes
compotes and and jellies.
Apples
Apples with with rice rice and and meringue.
meringue. POMMES poMMEs MERINGUÉES
MsnNcu6ns AU lu Compotes can can be be made from green
made from green preserved
preserved apricots,
Rlz in vanilla-flavoured apricots,
RIZ - - Poach apple apple quarters in vanilla-flavoured syrup, syrup, or
cook them in butter. Proceed Proceed as described described for Apricols Apricots wilh with
which should
which should be be peeled
peeled before being
being bottled.
rice and meringue meringue (see APRICOT). APRICOT).
Apple dng
Apple ring ià la la normande.
normande. BoRDURE BORDURE oe poMnaes À
DE POMMES i, LArA,
Varieties of apricots
apricots
NORMANDE -
NoRMANDE Peel, core and halve
- Peel, balve the apples, and cook them (Ptpiniire G
(Pépinière G De/bard)
Delbard)
in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup. Leave to cool cool in in the syrup, then
drain on a flat fiat sieve until they are dry. The early Boulbon
Boulbon apricot
Prepare a crime
Prepare crème moulie moulée (see CUSTARD,
(see CUST ARD, Vani//a Vanilla euslard),
custard),
flavouring with I1 to
flavouring to 2 tablespoons
tablespoons Calvados Calvados (applejack), and
cook it it rn bain-marie (q.v.) in a plain ring mould.
in a bain-marue mould. When it
is
is cold, turn tum out the mould onto a dish. Fill the middle with
the dry apple halves, piling piling them up into a dome. Decorate
with
with firmly firmly whipped whipped cream cream piped through a
piped through a forcing-bag
forcing-bag
with a fluted nozzle. Serve with Calvados-flavoured Calvados-flavoured Apricot Apricol
sauce (see
sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
Apple ring Brillat-Savarin. BoRDURE BORDURE DE poMMES POMMES BRTLLAT-
BRILLAT-
SAVARIN -- Fill
SAVARIN savarin (q.v.),
Fill a savarin steeped in
(q.v.), steeped in syrup
syrup and flavoured
flavoured
with
witb rum, rum, with stewed apples which whicb have been mixed with
rum-flavoured
rum-fiavoured confectioner's confectioner's custard custard (see (see CREAMS,
CREAMS, French French
pastry
paslry cream). cream).
Poach
Poach apple halves halves in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drain drain well,
weil,
and
and coat coat with reduced apricot
with reduced apricot pulp. pulp. Place
Place thesethese on top top ofof the
savarin
savarin and decorate decorate with with halves
ha Ives of fresh walnuts,
offresh walnuts, crystallised
crystallised
cherries and
cherries lozenges of
and lozenges of angelica.
angelica. Serve Serve withwith rum-flavoured
rum-flavoured Luizet apricots
Luizet apncots
custard.
custard.
Apple
Apple rissoles.
rissoles. RrssolrsRISSOLES DE DE poMMEs
POMMES -- Roll Roll out a piece piece of
Puff pastry
Puff paslry (see (see DOUGH)DOUGH) and and cut into little circJes 8 to
little circles to
10 cm.
10 cm. (3 (3 to inches) in
to 44 inches) in diameter.
diameter. Put Put aa tablespoon
tablespoon of of highly
highly
concentrated
concentrated Apple Apple sauce sauce (see (see below),
below), flavoured
flavoured with with kirsch
kirsch Nancy peach
Nancy peach apricot
apricot
(or
(or anyany other liqueur), in
other liqueur), in thethe middle
middle of of each
each circle. Fold the the

42
42
 APRICOT
APRICOT

Apncots iil I'ancienne.

Apricots ABRICOTS A
l'ancielllle. ABRIcors À t'lNctBNNs
L'ANCIENNE -- Halve Halve Decant
Decant the the apricots
apricots and syrup into
and syrup into an earthenware bowl
an earthenware bowl
large
large apricots,
apricots, remove rem ove the stones, and
the stones, poach in
and poach in vanilla-
vanilla- and leave overnight.
and leave overnight.
flavoured
l'lavoured syrup. Arrange Arrange on layer of
on aa layer sponge cake
of sponge cake soaked
soaked Next
Next day, day, drain drain the apricots and
the apricots and boilbail the syrup (it
the syrup (it should
should
in
in rum
rum and coated with
and coated with a layer
layer ofof apple Sprinkle with
sauce. Sprinkle
apple sauce. with not
not be above l2o
be above 12~ on syrup gauge). Add
the syrup
on the Add +t cup sugar, and and
chopped almonds,
chopped almonds, sugar and and aa little
little melted butter. Put
melted butter. Put in
in the
the bring
bring up up to to 18'ISO on the syrup gauge. When it is boiling, add
on the add
oyen to
oven Serve with apricot
to set. Serve apricot jam jam diluted in in a little
lillle water,
water, the apricots,
the apricots, bring bring again
again to to the boil, and return to the earthen-
strained
strained and !aced with
and laced with rum.
r\lm. ware bowl.
ware bowL (This (This operation is called 'grving
is called 'giving a a dressing'.)
dressing'.)
Apricot barquettes -- See BARQUETTES.
Apncor barquettes BARQUEITES. Continue to
Continue to give dressing in
give aa dressing in this
this manner
manner every every otherother day.day.
Apricot
Apricot bombe.bombe. BoMBE BOMBE ABRIcoTINE Line a mould
ABRICOTll\.'E -- Line mould with with When
When boiling, boiling, bring the syrup up
bring the up byby 6' each time.
6c each time. AddAdd sugarsugar
chocolate
chocolate ice ice cream. Fill fil! with
with Mousse (bombe) mixture (see
Mousse (bombe\ (see and boil
and boil down down when there is too
when there too muchmuch sYruP, syrup, which which must,must,
ICE CREAMS AND
ICE CREAMS AND ICES), flavoured with
fCES), flavoured with apricot brandybrandy however,
however, completely completely cover caver the the fruit each time.
fruit each time.
or apricot pur€e. purée. When itit comes up
When up toto 30'
30~ (average
(average syrup syrup density) - that that is,is,
Apricot BOUCHÉES iÀ L'.nnnlcot
bouchées. soucH6Es
Apricot bouchdes. L'ABRICOT - - These cakes after
after the tbe third dressing - do
third dressing do not bring itil up
not bring up by more more than than 4o,4°
can
can be made with
be made with either GenoeseGenoese or sponge batter, batter, and are and give
and give the dressîngs only
the dressings only every 3 days. Proceed in in this
filled and coated coated with apricot jam.
with apricot jam. manner until
manner uoti! the syrup reaches 36' 36° (moderately
(moderately thick). thick).
Ingredients.250
Ingrediems. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,generous
OZ., generous cup) sugar, 88 whole
fine sugar,
cup) fine whole Stone the apricots by inserting a
by inserting copper needle
a copper needle at at the
the
eggs, 200 g. (7 oz.,l|
eggs, OZ., li cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I~ cup stalk end and pushing the stone towards
the stone towards the the incision
incision made made at at
plus 22 tablespoons)
tablespoons) best best butter, a a small glass of kirsch or the beginning of the operation.
the operation. Some Sorne of of thethe apricots may may not not
rum. look as good as rest, perhaps
as the rest, perhaps by being slightly damaged damaged
Method.
Melhod. Beat Beat the sugar sugar and the the eggs in a copper bowl on a during the stoning process. Cut
stoning process. Cut thesethese into into small pieces pieces and and
low heat, or water. When the mixture
over hot water.
or over mixture becomes pale, pale, stuff them into the the rest of of the apricots to
the apricots to keep them them in in aa
light and frothy, blend in carefully carefully the sieved flour and the round shape. Lay them in
round an earthenware bowl.
in an
melted butter
melted butter (to which the
(to which Ihe chosen flavouriog has
chosen flavouring has been Bring the syrup to the the boil,
bail, check the degree degree (36'),(36'), and and
added).
added). pour
pour it, iL, still boiling, over the apricots. Leave Leave to cool. Spoon
to cool. Spoon
Pour
Pour the mixturemixture into shallow round
into shallow round moulds (cake (cake or apricots and syrup into
the apricots into jars
jars and cover with with greaseproof
greaseproof
muffin tins) filling filliug up to three-quarters. Cook for about 20 paper, as you would would jam.jam. Keep the jars in in aa cool, dry dry place.
place.
minutes in a slow oven. oyen. Turn out and allow a/1ow to cool. When
ta cool. Candied apricots or apricot comfits in
or apricot in brandy.
brandy, ABRIcors
ABRICOTS
quite
qui te cold, eut cut each bouchdebouchée in half with aa thin sharp sha rp knife,
knife, coNFITs A
CONf1TS À t'eAU-or-vIE-
L'EAU-DE-VlE - Choosc Choose very small, firm apricots of
firm apricots of
crumbling the sponge. Spread with kirsch-ftavoured
ta avoid crumbling
to kirsch-flavoured uniform
unifonn size. sue. BlanchBlanch them them as described in
as described in the recipe for
the recipe for
apricot jam, jam, then sandwich the
then sandwich bouchies together
the bouchées together again. candied apricots above. Soak them
candied them in cold water
in cold water for for anan hour,
hour,
Brush with concentrated apricot jam jam and
and coat the sides ail all drain, and put them syrup, which
them in syrup, which should be be brought up to to
round with chopped roasted almonds. Decorate the
almonds. Decorate the tops 25'(see
25° (see SUGAR). Leave them them in the the syrup at Ihîs degree for
at this
with half aa glacé glaal cherry. 4 days,
days, then drain, and and putput them into inta preserving
preserving jars. jars. Fill
Fill
Bourdaloue l.
Apricots Bourdalure I. ABRICOTS
mntcors BoLIRDALoTJE
BOURDALOUE -- Cook Cook 16 with
withthe the following mixture:
apricot halveshalves in light vanilla-flavoured
in a light vanilla-flavoured syrup. Remove, Remove, Syrup in
Syrup in which the the fruit
fruit was candied, 1I litre
was candied, (lf, pints,
litre (Ii pints,
drain and and arrange in in aa shallow ovenproof dish two-Ihirds two-thirds generous quart).
filled with semolina cooked in
filled wilh in milk
milk and bound with
and bound with 22 egg Neutral alcohol, tasteless,
Neutral of 90", Il litre
tasteless, of90", litre (li(lf pints,
pints, generous
generous
SEMOLINA, English semo/ina
yolks (see SEMOLlNA, semolira pudding).
pudding). quart).
quart).
Cover the apricots with a light layer of semolina, sprînkle
Coyer sprinkle Add a piece of of vallilla
vanilla pad,pod, or or lI teaspoon
teaspoon vanilla vanilla essence
essence
with the crumbs of 2 crushed macaroons and
wÎlh teaspoon of
and aa teaspoon of or 1I dl.
or dl. (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant cup) rum or
scant ~I cup) or kirsch
kirsch per per 2 litres
2 litres
fine powdered sugar. Put in a very hot aven oven for a few minutes ($ pints,
pints, generous
generous 2 2 quarts) liquid. Mix
quarts) liquid. Mix weIl. well. WhenWhen the jars
the jars
to glaze the top.
to have been filled, filled, seal them with
seal tbem with theirtheir special
special tops, tops, or with
or with
Serve wilh with an an apricot
apricot and and kirsch
kirsch sauce (apricot jam
sauce (apricot jam cork lids.
thinned down
thinned down with with the syrup in
the syrup in which
which the the apricots
apricots were Keep în in a cool place, protected protected both both from from heat heat and humi-
and humi-
cooked, strained and and laced with aa tablespoon of kirsch). dity. At At the end end of one month the fruit will
the fruit will he ready for
be ready for use.
use.
Apricots Bourdaloue
Bourdaloue ll. II. ABRICOTS
lnnlcors BOURDALOUE
BouRDALour -- Cook Cook Caramel IIprÎCots
Caramel apricots ln in brandy
brandy (petit (petit fours).fous). ABRICOTSnnntcors (À (r,
apricots lightly in in syrup, halve them, and place on on aa layer of of L'EAU-DE-vIE) AU
L'EAU-DE-VIE) cARAMET -- Drain
AU CARAMEL Drain the preserved preserved apricots apricots as as
cream (see FRANGIPANE) in
1-1'I7Y10',nt7Y1P cream
Frangipane in an
an ovenproof
ovenproof described in
descrihed in the recipe for
the recipe for Cryszallised
Crystallised apricols apricots (see below). below).
dish or
dish or on flan shell.
on aa flan shell. Roll them
Roll them in in powdered
powdered gum gum arabic,
arabic, then then dip dip them, one one by by
Sprinkle with
Sprinkle with crushed macaroons and
crushed macaroons and melted butter, and
melted butter, and one, in
one, in sugar cooked cooked to to crack
crack stage stage (see SUGAR).
(see SUGAR).
glaze
glaze in in the
the oyen.
oven. Serve
Serve with an apricot and
an apricot and kirsch saucesauce asas Space them
Space carefully on
them carefully slightly oiled
on aa slightly marble slab,
oiled marble slab, andand
above.
above. when they
when they are quite dry, put them
are quite them into into flulcd
fluted paperpaper cases.
cases.
Candied
Candied or or crystallised
crystallised aprlcots (apricot comftts).
apricob (apricot ABRIcors
comfits). ABRICOTS Apricot charlotte
Apricot charlotte -- See CHARLOTTE, Fruit Fruit charJol/es.
charlottes.
coNFITs -
CONFITS - Choose
Choose very firm white apricots,
very firm apricots, ofof unifonn
uniform size.
size. Colbert apricots.
Colbert ABRIcors COLBERT
apricots. ABRICOTS coLBERT -- Halve Halve the the apricots,
apricots,
Make aa ligbtlight incision at at the
the opposite end end toto the
the stalk.
stalk. remove the
remove the stones,
stones, and and poach the the fruitfruit inin aa light light syrup
Put them.
Put them, aa few few at time, in a copper pan full
at aa ume, full of
of cold
cold (flavoured with
(ftavoured with vanilla, if desired). Simmer Simmer genlly gently l'romfrom 8 to to
water, so
water, that they
so Ihat they are completely covered. Place the pan
are ""'''''M.I",t,,..hl minutes, depending on
10 rnjnutes,
10 on the ripeness of
the ripeness of the fruit. Cool.
the fruit. Cool.
over
over aa lowlow l'lame.
flame. AsAs saon
soon as apricots rise
as the apricots rise to the surface,
to the surface, To serve,
To arrange the apricots
serve, arrange apricots in fruit dish;
in aa fruit dish; add add aa fcw few
take them
take them out out ofof the
the water with perforated spoon
with aa perforated spoon andand feel
feel drops of
drops kirsch to
of kirsch to the syrup and
the syrup and pourpour itit over over the fruit.
the fruit.
them la
them to see if they
see if they are
are thoroughly softened; this
thoroughly softened; this isis the
the For this
For this compote
compote the halved apricots can
the halved can be be peeled. Ta To
operation.
blanching operation.
Ul"',"'w,WlI!', make the
make operation easier,
the operation easier, dipdip the apricot halves halves for aa few few
Soak the apricotsapricots for for 1212 hours
hours in in cold water, which
cold watcr, which seconds into
seconds into boiling water. Flavour the compote
water. Flavour compote by by adding
adding
should be
should changed every
be changed hours.
every 22 hours. to itit aa few
few of of the
the kernels which have
kernels which have been extracted from
been extracted from the the
Prepare
Prepare the syrup: 1I cup
following syrup:
the following cup sugar
sugar to lf cups water,
to l.i water, apricot stones,
stones, and and blanched.
blanched.
boiled ta
boiled to 18° by aa syrup gauge (see SUGAR).
18" by SUGAR). Pour this this Apricot comlnte -- See COMPOTE.
See COMPOTE.
boiling syrup over
boiling syrup the drained apricots, which
over the which have
have becn put
been put Apricots Conde (old
Apricots (old recipe). ABRICOTS ABRIcors CONDÉ coNof -- Cook Cook
back in
back in the
the copper pan. Bring
copper pan. Bring to to the
the boil over aa high
boil over high apricots in
halved apricots
halved in syrup.
syrup. Drain, arrange arrange on on aa savarin (q.v.)
savarin (q.v.)
Rame.
flame. and top
and top with apricot syrup
with apricot flavoured with
syrup flavoured with kirsch.
kirsch.

43
43
APRICOT
APRICOT

Garnish the
Garnish middle of
the middle of the with aamixture
savarin with
the savarin mixtureof of25
25g.g. CREAMS). Sprinkle
CREAMS). Sprinkle the apricots with
theapricots withfine
finesugar
sugarand andglaze
glaze
(1(l oz.,
oz., i* cup)
cup) cornmeal
cornmeal or or maize flourcooked
maize ftour cooked ininaa double
double ininaavery
veryhothotoyen.
oven.
boiler with
boiler with scant
scant litre (lI pints,
litre O-!- pints, 44cups)
cups)scalded,
scalded, sweetened,
sweetened, Whenready
When ready totoserve,
serve,addaddtotothe dishaafew
thedish fewtablespoons
tablespoons of of
vanilla-flavoured milk,
vanilla-ftavoured milk, until
until thick. Dilute the
thick. Dilute mixture with
the mixture with apricotsauce
apricot lacedwith
sauce laced with kirsch.
kirsch.
cream. Make
cream. little cork-shaped
Make little cork-shaped croquettes from the
croquettes from the corn
corn Apricob flambé
Apricots flambe ininkirsch.
kirsch. ABRICOTS
ABRrcors FLAMBÉS
rL,qMsEsAU KrRscH- -
AUKIRSCH
meal or
meal or maize flour mixture,
maize Hour mixture, and place them
and place round the
them round the Cook apricots ininsyrup,
Cook apricots drain, halve
syrup, drain, halvethem,
them, and andput put22orot33
savarin.
savarin. into individual
halves into
halves individual fireproof
fireproof dishes. Addtotoeach
dishes. Add dish22
eachdish
Apricots Condé
Apricots Cond6I. J. ABRICOTS Fill three-quarters
coNpf -- Fill
ABRrcors CONnÉ three-quarters of ofaa tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons)
tablespoons tablespoons)of of the syrupininwhich
thesyrup which thethe
shallow fireproof dish
shallow fireproof with Dessert
dish with rice (see
Dessert rice RICE). Cook
(see RICE). Cook apricots were
apricots were cooked,
cooked, blended
blendedwith withsorne cornflour oror
somecornftour
apricot halves
apricot in syrup,
halves in drain, and
syrup, drain, and arrange themon
arrange them on the
the rice.
rice. arrowroot. Heat
arrowroot. Heat to toboiling point.
boiling point.
Decorate with
Decorate with glacé
glac€ cherries
cherries and
and angelica
angelica cut into lozenges.
cut into lozenges. When ready
When ready to toserve, pour into
serve, pour intoeacheachdishdishaateaspoon
teaspoonof of
Heat thoroughly
Heat thoroughly in in the
the oyen,
oven, andand serve with Apricot
servewith Apricot and and kirsch and
kirsch andsetset ititalight.
alight.
kirsch sauce
kirsch (see SA
sauce (see SAUCE).
UCE). Apricotflan
Apricot flan -- See
SeeTA TART.
R T.
Apricotfritters
Apricot fritters-- See FRITTERS.
SeeFRITTERS.
Apricotice
Apricot cream -- See
icecream ICE CREAMS
See ICE CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES.
Apricots ài l'impératrice
Apricots l'imp6rahice 1.I. ABRICOTS
,rnnrcors ÀA L'IMPÉRATRICE
L'rMpERArRrcE- -
Three-quarters fill
Three-quarters fill aa dessert dishwith
dessert dish with Rice
Rice àdl'impératrice
l'impiratrice
(see RICE). Set
(see RICE). Set ininaacold place, on
cold place, ice,ifif possible.
onice, possible.Cook Cookaa
dozen apricots in
dozen apricots inaasugar syrupftavoured
sugar syrup flavoured withwith vanilla, drain
vanilla, drain
well, halve
weil, halve the apricots, and
the apricots, andarrange
arrangethem them ininaacircle
circleononthethe
rice. Top them
rice. Top them with with aacoating
coating ofof redcurrant
redcurrant jelly jelly (see
(seeJAMS
JAMS
AND JELLlES,
AND JELLIES, Currant jelly). Decorate
Curuant jelly). Decorate with with cherries
cherriesand and
lozenges of
lozenges of angelica.
angelica. Keep Keep on on ice until ready
iceuntil ready to toserve,
serve, then
then
put the
put dish on
the dish onaalarger
larger one one covered
covered with with aanapkin,
napkin,and andsur-
sur-
round with
round with crushed
crushed ice. ice.

Apricots Condé
Apricots (Scarnati)
Cond6 (Scarnali)

Apricob Condé
Apricots II. ABRICOTS
Cond6 II. lsnrcors CONDÉ
coNo6 -- Arrange the
the apricot
apricot
halves on aa ring of Dessert rice (see RICE). Stud
(see RICE). Stud the apricots
apricots
with halved,
with halved, blanched almonds, almonds, and and decorate
decorate with with glacé
glaci
cherries
cherries and lozenges of ange!ica. angelica. Heat through in in the
the oyen
oven
and serve with Apricot Apricot andond kirsch sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
Apricot coupe -- See See ICE CREAMS AND ICES.
Apricot crofite. cno0rB AUX
croûte. CROÛTE ABRrcors -- Arrange
AUx ABRICOTS Arrange aa dozen
dozen
or so slices of savarin in a circle on a dish,
s!ices of dish. as described in the the
recipe for Fruit crofites
recipe CROUTES) replacing the pine-
croûtes (see CROÛTES)
apple slices by by aa layer of apricot jam spread spread evenly
evenly onon the
savarin slices.
slices.
Cook halved apricots in syrup, drain them, and and lay them
on
on the savarin slices. Decorate
the savarin Decorate with fruit. Heat in
with crystallised fruit.
the oyen and serve with
the oven with Apricot and kirsch sauce or Madeira Apricots àd l'impératrice
Apricots I'imp€ratrice IlII
sauce (see SAUCE).
sauce SA U CE).
apricots in brandy (petits fours).
Crystallised apricob
Crystallised mnrcors (À
forns). ABRICOTS (a Apricots ài l'impératrice
Apricots I'imp6ratrice II. II. ABRICOTS
asnrcors ÀA LL'rMpfRATRrcE
'IMPÉRA TRICE -
-
L'EAU-DE-VIE) cnrsr.lrrrsfs
L'EAU-DE-vrr) CRISTALLISÉS - Use apricots which
- Use which have
have been
been Prepare l'impiratrice (see
Prepare Rice àd l'impératrice (see RICE)
RICE) inin aa charlotte
charlotte mould.
mould.
preserved in brandy (see
preserved (see Candied
Candied apricots in brandy). Lay
in brandy). Lay Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a
Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a
the apricots on a flat sieve and drain for 2 hours.
fiat sieve hours. Melt aa of halved
circle of
circle halved apricots,
apricots, cooked
cooked in· syrup and
in'syrup and drained.
drained.
little
!ittle gum arabic in water. water. Put the apricots in aa bowl and Decorate with glacéglac€ cherries
cherries and
and lozenges
lozenges of of angelica.
angelica. This
This
pour the the gum arabic over them, them, a a little atat aa time,
time, gently method of presentation may may bebe applied
applied toto ail
all fruit
fruit desserts
desserts àd
shaking
shaking the the bowl untiluntil all
ail the apricots
apricots are coated.
coated. l'impératrice.
I'impiratrice.
Remove them,
Remove them, oneone at a time, with cooking
cooking tongs,
tongs, and roll The
The rice
rice can
can alsoalso bebe served
served inin aa savarin
savarin mou mould,Id, tumed
turned
them in
them in crystallised sugar.
sugar. Leave
Leave for an hour on aa wire cake cake out onto
onto aa dish,
dish, thethe centre
centre filled
filled with
with cooked,
cooked. drained
drained half
half
sieve, and when
sieve, when theythey are quite dry arrange them in paper apricots.
cases.
cases. Apricot jan
Apricot jam -- SeeSee JAMS
JAMS ANDAND JELLIES.
JELLIES.
Apricots ià la
Apricots la diable. ABRrcors
ABRICOTS A LA otesr.r
À r,c,
- Spread the
DIAELE - Spread Apricot
Apricot omelette.·
omelette. OMELETTE
oMELETTE AUX ABRrcors -- See
AUX ABRICOTS See EGG,
EGG,
flat sides of
ftat sides of 88 large macaroons with a layer of apricot jam
large macaroons Omelette: Jam andfruit
Omelette: Jarn andfruit omelette.
omelette.
ftavoured with
flavoured with kirsch.
kirsch. Place
Place them on a fireproof
fireproof dish
dish in aa Apricot oreillons.
Apricot oreillons. OREILLONS D'ABRrcors -- Halved
oRETLLoNS D'ABRICOTS Halved apricots
apricots
circle.
circle. are ca lied Apricot
called oreillons. They
Apricot oreillons. They are
are bottled
bottled in in water
water oror aa
Cook
Cook the the same
sa me number
number of of apricots
apricots inin syrup, drain, halve sugar syrup.
sugar syrup.
them, and
them, place 2
and place 2 halves
halves on on each macaroon.
macaroon. Spread Spread over
over Apricot pudding.
Apricot pudding. POUDING
eouorNc AUX ABRrcors - See
Aux ABRICOTS- See PUDDING,
PUDD I NG,
them a
them a few teaspoons of Praline
few teaspoons Praline castard
custard crectm
cream (see(see Fruit pudding.
Fruit

44
44
 ARCHESTRATUS
ARCHESTRATUS

Only
Only two species of
two species of apron are known,
apron are one which
known, one is found
which is found
in the Danube,
in the the common
and the
Danube, and apron, which
common apron, abounds in
which abounds in
the Rhdne
the Rhône andand allail its
its tributaries.
tributaries.
The apron rarely
The apron rarely exceeds
exceeds 18 cm. (7
18 cm. inches) in
(7 inches) length. The
in length. The
upper part
upper of its
part of body is
its body yellowish brown
is yellowish streaked with
brown streaked with
darkish bands or
darkish bands stripes, which
or stripes, which extend obliquely down
extend obliquely down its its
sides. Its
sides. is aa greyish
belly is
Its belly white, its
greyish white, its fins are yellow
fins are yellow spotted
spotted
with
with grey.
grey. Its flesh is
Its flesh is very succulent and
very succulent and resembles that of
resemb1es that of
and it
perch, and
perch, it is
is much appreciated by
much appreciated gastronomes. For
by gastronomes. For
culinary preparation
culinary preparation see see PERCH.
PERCH.
ARAB COOKERY -- See
ARAB COOKERY See ALGERIA.
ALGERIA .
ARAPEDE -- French
ARAPEDE name for
French name for aa univalve com-
shellfish com-
univalve shellfish
Apricot
Aprico! omelette
omelette
monly found
found in Provence. It
in Provence. It is prepared in
is prepared in the
the same way as
same way as
cockles.
cockles.
Apricot
Apricot sauce See SAUCE, Dessert
sauce -- See Dessert sauces.
sauces. ARBOIS - A
ARBOIS A small town in
small town in the Jura (Franche-Comté)
the Jura which
(Franche-Comte) which
Apricot soufflé -- See
Apricot sorff6 SOUFFLÉS, Sweet souffiis.
See SOUFFLES, soufflés. its name to
has given its to highly esteemed white,
highly esteemed red and
white, red and rosé
ros€
Apricots preserved
Apricots preserved in in syrup. CONSERVE D'ABRICors
syrup. coNsERvE D'ABRICOTS AU (See FRANCHE-COMTE.)
wines. (See FRA NCHE-COMTÉ.)
The procedure
SIROP -- The
slRop procedure is is exactly thethe same as asfor Compote of
for Compote Here is is La
La
apricots in syrup (see COMPOTE, Preserved Preserved fruit in com-
fruit in
ARBOLADE
ARBOLADE - Once - Once aa most popular dessert.
most popular dessert' Here
pan and
Varenne's recipe for it: 'Melt
for it: little butter
'Melt aa little butter in in aa pan and add
add
pote).
pote).
yolks of
yolks of egg, juice, sugar
pear juice,
egg, pear sugar and pinch of
and aa pinch of salt.
salt. Cook
Cook
Apricots preserved au
Apricots au naturel. CONSERVE D'AsnIcots
naturel. coNsERvE D'ABRICOTS AU
iogether,
together, then then sweeten
sweeten with with flower
flower water. Colour aa pale
water. Colour pale
NATUREL -
NATUREL - Pack the apricots into preserving jars
the apricots jars without
green and and serve.'
adding either water or sugar. Screw on the lids
adding either Iids and sterilise
for 15 to 20 minutes at 90°C. 90'C. (194'F.).
(194°F.). ARBUTUS BERRY. ARBOUSE ARBousE -- FruitFruit ofof the
the cane apple, aa
cane apple,
Apricots with rice. ABRIcors
Apricots ABRICOTS AU RIz RIZ - Cook 1I cup rice in
- Cook shrub which is found in
is found profusion in
in profusion in the parts of
southern parts
the southern of
2 sweetened milk
2 cups sweetened milk which has been been flavoured with vanilla. North America,
North Mexico, southern
America, Mexico, Europe and
southern Europe and the Canary
the Canary
Place in a fruit dish. Cook halved halved apricots in aa sugar syrup, Islands.
stone them,
stone them, andand arrange
arrange on on the
the bedbed ofof rice.
rice. AddAdd aa fewfew This shrub,
Thls shrub, which grown in
which isis grown in some parts of
some parts of southern
southern
tablespoons of apricot sauce, if desired
tablespoons desired.. Serve
Serve hothot or cold. mainly in
France, mainly
France, in the Languedoc, isis also
the Languedoc, known as
also known straw-
as straw-
Apricots with rice and meringue. ABRICOTS
Apricots nsnNcuEs AU
ABRIcors MERINGUÉS lu It owes
tree. It
berry tree. this name
owes this to the
name to shape and
the shape colour of
and colour its
of its
RIZ - Cook
ntz - Cook 125 125 g. (4 oz., 1
g. (4 f cup)
cup) rice
rice as for Dessert rice
as for (see
rice (see fruit, which
fruit, which resembles
resembles the the strawberry
strawberry but but has neither its
has neither its
RICE) andand arrange
arrange it in aa thick
thick layer on on anan ovenproof
ovenproof dish.dish. scent nor
scent nor its
its melting
melting fiesh.flesh.
Cook aa dozen or so apricots in aa sugar syrup syrup flavoured with
flavoured with 1Italy, Spain and
taly, Spain and AAlgeria are the
Igeria are main su
the main suppliers
ppliers of of wine and
wine and
vanilla, halve and and stone them.
them. Arrange the the halves in in aa circle
circle spirits distilled
spirits from the
distilled from the arbutus berry.
arbutus berry.
on the
the rice.
rice. Coyer
Cover with meringue (q.v.), (q.v.), smoothing
smoothing the the sur-
sur- Besides wine and
Besides wine spirits, the
and spirits, fruit of
the fruit of this berry also
this berry yields aa
also yields
face. Decorate with meringue
face. meringue piped
piped round
round thethe edge.
edge. liqueur crime dd'arbouse,
called crème
liqueur called which has
'arhouse, which has the reputation of
the reputation of
Sprinkle
Sprinkle with
with icing sugar and
icing sugar and bake
bake inin aa moderate
moderate oyen,oven, helpful to
being helpful
being to digestion.
digestion.
raising the temperature to
raising the to very hot at
very hot at the
the last moment to
last moment to Tde berries
The beiries are very fleshy
are very fleshy when ripe; they
when ripe; they are
are sweet, and
sweet, and
make the the meringue goldengolden brown.
brown. WhenWhen baked,
baked, decorate
decorate have faintly acid
have aa faintly after-taste. They
acid after-taste. They are reputed to
are reputed to be astrin-
beastrin-
the
the piped
piped edge
edge further
further with
with aa 1ittle
little apricot
apricot and and redcurrant
redcurrant gent and
gent diuretic.
and diuretic.
jelly, alternating
jelly, alternating the the colours.
colours. This
This dessert
dessert isis usually
usually served
served
hot. but itit can
hot, can also
also bebe served
served cold.
cold. ARCA -- AA bivalve
ARCA bivalve mollusc commonly known
mollusc commonly arch.lts
known asasarch. Its
Pineapple, bananas,
Pineapple, bananas, cherries,
cherries, peaches,
peaches, pears
pears and and apples
apples which are
shells, which
shells, are of rather aadark
of rather colour, are
dark colour, found on
are found allthe
onail the
can
can be
be prepared
prepared in in the
the same
same manner.
manner. The fruit should
The fruit should pre-
pre- coasts
coasts ofof France.
France.
viously
viously bebe poached
poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup
in vanilla-flavoured syrup oror stewed in
stewed in This mollusc isiseaten
This mollusc raw or
eaten raw prepared in
or prepared in the
thesame wayasas'
sameway
butter;
butter; itit can
can be
be used
used who
whole,le, halved,
halved, in
in slices,
slices, or
or diced.
diced. mussels.
mussels.
Apricot
Apricot tarts
tarb and
and ta.rtlets
ta;tleb -- See
See TART,
TART, TARTLET.
TARTLET. southernshores of
ARCACHON-This
ARCACHON town,situated
- This town, onthe
situated on the southern shores of
APRJCOTING.
APRICOTING. ABRICOTER This .is the
,c,nntcorER -- Thisis the term
term used
used inin the d'Arcachon (an
Bassin d'Arcachon
the Bassin (aninlet
inlet of
ofthe Bayof
theBay ofBiscay), dear
Biscay), isisdear
pâtisserie
pdtisserie toto define
define thethe operation
operation which
which consists
consists in
in covering
covering to the
to heartof
the heart of gastronomes
gastronomes and and lovers ofoysters,
lovers of oysters,for for
aacake
cake oror sweet
sweet with
with aa thin
thin layer
layer ofapricotjam
of apricotjam which
which hashas been
been famous for
Arcachon isisfamous
Arcachon for its
itsmagnificent oysterbeds
magnificent oyster (andfor
beds(and for
boileit down
boiled down to to aa thick
thick consistency,
consistency,flavoured
flavoured with
with liqueur,
liqueur, itsgraVé
its particular).
'tes inin particular).
gravettes
and
and passed
passed through
through aa fine
fine strainer.
strainer. of
ARCANETTE -- Name
ARCAI'TEITE Namegiven Lorraine totoaaspecies
givenininLorraine speciesof
small teal.ItItdiffers
local teal.
small local froman
differs from anordinary
ordinary teal from
andfrom
tealand
garganey thatititdoes
garganey ininthat doesnotnotmigra
migrate,
te, and foundininitsits
andisisfound
native landail
native land allthe yearround.
theyear round.ItsItsflight
flightisisshort swift'
butswift.
shortbut
shootingisislike
Arcanetteshooting
Arcanette likeduck shooting,the
duckshooting, twospecies
thetwo species
Apron
Apron being
beingofofsimilar
similarbehaviour.
behaviour.
Theflesh
The fleshofofthis
thisspecies
speciesof ofteal
tealisisexcellent
excellentandandmuch
much
appreciated
appreciated by gastronomes. InIntaste
bygastronomes. tasteititcancanbebecompared
compared
withthat
with of wildduck
thatofwild duck.. Forculinary preparation see
For culinarypreparation DUCK.
seeDUCK.

ARCH- -See
ARCH ARCA.
SeeARCA
APRON - - AA small
APRON smallfish,
fish,with
withaarounded,
rounded,elongated
elongated body
body
ARCHANGELICA. ARcHANGfLIQUE - -See
ARCHAI\GELICA. ARCHANGÉLIQUE ANGELICA'
SeeANGELICA.
covered
covered with
withvery
veryrough
rough scales.
scales. ItsItshead
headisisflattened,
flattened,the
the
snout
snout protrudes
protrudes above
aboveits
itsmou th , its
mouth, itsdorsal
dorsalfins
finsare
areplaced
placedatat ARCHFSTRATUS- -Greek
ARCHESTRATUS Greekpoet poetofofabout
about350 s.c.,who
350B.e., whowas
was
aadistance
distancefrom
fromeach
eachother,
other,its
itsgill
gillslits
slitsare
arelarge.
large. verygreat
a avery gastronome,ilitisissaid.
greatgastronome, said.HeHewas
wasthe authorofofa a
theauthor

4545
 (AL')
ARCHIDUC (À
ARCHIDUC L')

work ininverse,
work verse, Gasfronomy, of which only a few short frag- someresemblance
resemblance totothe peacock, and
thepeacock, andisisround
found ininJava
Gaslrol1omy, of which only a rew short frag- sorne and
Java and
ments have survived. Sumatra.
ments have survived. Sumatra.
Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although The flesh ofargus pheasant isis very
Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although
say in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily; and he
The flesh of argus pheasant verydelicate. All the
delicate. Ail the
lome say
sorne in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily, and he methods of
methods preparation given
of preparation for pheasant
given for (q.v.)are
pheasant (q.v.) are also
also
lived for long time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned
lived for aalong time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned applicable totoargus
applicable pheasant.
argus pheasant.
for the numerous
for the numerous voyages voyages he made toto colleet
he made collect notes
notes on
on
culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. ARIDGE -- The
ARIÈGE The Ariège
Aridge dépanemenl
dipartemenl of of France,
France, situated
situated onon
culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. theSpanish frontier between
Spanish frontier Haute-Garonne ininthe
between Haute-Garonne
Archestratus sometimes referred to as a cook. From the tbe thewest and
westand
Archestratus isissometimes referred to as a cook. From the Pyrdn€es-Orientales inin the
writings of authors of the time it is apparent that he was more
writings ofauthors of the time it is apparent that he was more
Pyrénées-Orientales the east,
east, isis chiefly
chiefly famous for the
famous for the
of a gastronome and an able wdter, not a cookery technician. mineral waters
minerai of the
watersof the thermal
thermal springs
springsat at the
the spas of Ax and
spas ofAx and
ofa gastronome and an a bic writer, not a cookery technician. Aulus.
He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. Aulus.
He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. Among Ariège
Aridge culinary
culinary specialities
The most reliable data we have concerning this poet- Among specialities Ihere
there areare many good
many good
The most reliable data we have concerning this poet- dishes; above all, those
those ririch
gastronome comes from Deipnosophistai or Specialists in dishes; above ail, eh inin fat
fat meat.
meat.
gastronome cornes from Deipnosophistai or Specialisls in Excellent Confits (se CONFIT)
d'oie (see CONFIT) are
Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from Excellent Confits d'oie are made
made inin this
this
Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from region. The
The Ariège
Aridge geese
the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find region. geese have
have aa very
very fine
fine flesh. pork
Aridge pork
flesh. Ariège
the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find of high quality, and
all that pertains to gastronomy,
gastronomy, food production, cookery isis also
also of high quality, and isis made into good
made into good charculerie;
charcuterie;
ail that pertains to food production, cookery Aridge bams
hams and
and sausages
sausages are famous. (See
are famous. LANGUEDOC.)
(See LANGUEDOC.)
and ceremonial banquets. Ariege
and ceremonial banquets.
Here is what Barth€lemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of ARIEGEOISE (À (A V)
L') -= Name
Name given
given to to various
various dishes
dishes
Here is what Barthélemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of ARIÉGEOlSE
Archestratus: all of
almost ail of whieh
which include
include the
the following
following ingredients
ingredients as
Archestrat us: almost as
'This author was a friend of one of pericles' sons. He garnish: green
gamish: green cabbage
cabbage and
and pickled pork, and
pickled pork, and- sometimes
sometimes
'This author was a friend of one of Perieles' sons. He
crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was kidney beans.
beans. (See CHICKEN
(See CHI Stffid chicken I'ariigeoise;
chicken àd l'ariégeoise;
crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was kidney CKEN,, Stuffed
the best they had to offer. In his voyages he did not study the MUTTON, Sluffed
Stufed breasi of mullon
breast of mutton cid l'ariégeoi5e.)
I'ariigeoise.)
the hest they had to otfer. In his voyages he did not study the MUTTON,
customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study
customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study ARLEQUIN (Harlequin)
(Harlequin) --The
since it is impossible to change them, but went into the ARLEQUIN arlequrn is
The arlequin (or rather was,
is (or for
was, for
since it is impossible to change them, but went into the
places where the delights of the table were manufactured, itit is
is_almost thing of
almost aa thing of tbe past) an
the past) an assortment
assortment of of scraps of of
places wbere tbe delights of the table were manufactured, food, bought
bought fromfrom bottle
bottle washers or or washers-up
and had no dealings except with people who catered for food, washers-up in in restau-
and had no dealings except with people who eatcred for rants.
these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not rants.
these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not The scraps were made
scraps were made to to look
look palatable
palatable and
contain a single verse which is not a plea for gastronomy.' The and soldsold to
to
contain a single verse which is nol a plea for gastronomy.' people of of small
small means,
means, who cou could, for aa few
few sous, have
people Id, for have the
the
ARCHIDUC (A L') - A term applying to a great number of illusion of eating good
eating aa good meal.
ARCHIDUC (À V) - A lerm applying 10 a great number of illusion of
preparations. Dishes d I'archiduc are usually seasoned with These bits
bits and pieces were also ealled
and pieees jewels.
preparations. Dishes à l'archiduc are usually seasoned with These called bijoux -- jewels.
paprika and blended with cream. (See EGGS; CHICKEN. Privat d'Anglemont
d'Anglemont says: says: 'Arlequin is is so
so called because
paprika and blended with cream. (Sec EGGS; CHICKEN, Privat because
Chicken sauti Ar chduke.') these dishes areare composed
composed of of bits and pieces,
pieces, thrown
Chicken sauté Archduke.) these dishes bils and thrown 10- to-
ARCHIL (Orchif Dyer's moss). purptsh-red gether in
gether haphazard fashion, just
in aa haphazard just like parti-coloured
like the parti-eoloured
ARCHIL (Orcbil, Dyer's moss). ORSEILLE
oRsETLLE -
- Purplish-red tights of
paste made from lichen, used as colouring matter. It is tights of the citizen of
the citizen of Bergamo. A A bucket of pieces costs
paste made [rom lichen, used as colouring matter. lt is
mainly used for tinting pickled tongue - langue d l,icarlate. 33 francs; there you
francs; there you cancan find everything, from
find everything, from trufled
truffied
mainly used for tinting pickled tongue -langue à l'écarlate. chicken and
chicken and game
game to beef and cabbage.'
to beef cabbage.'
ARDENNAISE (A L') - A term applying mostly to dishes of
ARDENNAlSE (À V) - A term applying mostly to dishes of ARLES
small birds cooked in a cocotte with juniper berries. (See ARLES -- Many Many famous
famous gastronomic
gastronomie products originate in
produets originate
small birds cooked in a cocolle with juniper berries. (See
THRUSH.) this city
this and its
city and neigbbourhood, situated in
its neighbourhood, in the iouthsouth of
THRUSH.) France.
The same name also applies to a method of preparing France.
The same name also applies to a method of preparing Chief
crayfish (q.v.). Chief among
among them them is is the
the celebrated saucisson d,Arles d'Arles
crayfish (q.v.). (Arles sausage), but
(Arles sausage), but the
the region
region also produces
produces excellent oil. oil.
ARDOISE (Slate) - Slang name given to the bills for meals
ARDOISE (Stale) - Slang name given to the bills for meals (See PROVENCE.)
(See PROVENCE.)
taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were
taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were
written on a slate. ARLESIENNE
ARLÉSIENNE (A (À L')-
L') - The na me applies
The name applies to to dishes some of
dishes some
written on asiate. which
which have have a garnish of
a garnish aubergines fried
of aubergines fried in in oil,
oil, saut€ed
sautéed
ARENGA (Sugar paln) - A genus of palm tree. Its trunk tomatoes,
ARENGA (Sugar palm) -- A genus of palm tree. Ils trunk tomatoes, and and onion
onion rings dredged in
rings dredged in flour
flour and fried.
fried.
contains abundant pith, which produces a large quantity of Another
contains abundant pith, whieh produces a large quantity of Another garnish consists of
garnish consists of whole
whole small
small tomatoes
tomatoes peeledpeeled
starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the
starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the and eooked in
and cooked bu 11er, and
in butter, and very tender pickled
very [ender pickled endiveendive
trunk, from which sago
tnmk, from which
(q.v.) prepared.
sago (q.v.) is
is prepared. hearts fried
hearts fried in
in oil.
oil.
From
From the
the clusters,
clusters, which develop all
which develop the year
ail the year round
round Yet anothergarnish
Yet another garoish consists
consists of small tomatoes
ofsmall stutfed with
tomatoes stuffed with
between the lower leaves, there is a flow of sweet sap which, pilaf
hetween the lower leaves, there is a tlow of swect sap which, pilaf andand browned
browned on on top,
top, large
large olives stutfed with
olives stuffed with chicken
ehicken
by simple evaporation,
furrushes a
by simple evaporation, furnishes kind of
a kind sugar of
of suglr of aa forcemeaf,
forcemeat, and and new
new potatoes.
potatoes.
brownish colour, and, by a process of fermentation, a palm
brownish colour, and, by a pro cess of fermentation, a palm
wine. ARMADILLO. urou
ARMADILLO. TATOU -- Small
Small toothless
toothless mammal
mammai covered
eovered
wine. with
In with scales, found in
sc.ales, found in South America. It1t isis about
South America. about the size of
the size ofaa
and in
England
In England and sorne parts
in some parts of
of France, where imported
France, where imported guinea-pig,
sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, guinea-pig, but more highly
bul more highly esteemed
esteemed as as meat.
meat.
sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green,
is candied, and is much valued as a stomach remedy. ARMAGNAC
ARMAGNAC -- Region Region in the old
in the old province
province ofof Gascony,
Gascony,
is eandied, and is much valued as a stomacb remedy.
now
now almost
almost entirely included in
entirely included in the département of
the dipartement of Gers.
Gers.
ARGENTEUIL -
ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus cultivated in
Asparagus cultivated in the
the Argenteuil
Argenteuil The
The Armagnac
Armagnac brandies
brandies areare famous. Armagnac (which
famous. Armagnac (which isis
region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputaiion.
region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputation.
Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings, and spreads
even shaped like
even shaped like aa vine
vine leaf) divided into
Ieaf) isis divided into three
three zones:
zones:
Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings' and spreads .Con- lower
lowcr Armagnac,
Armagnac, upper upper Armagnac,
Armagnac, and and T€nardze.
Ténarèze. (See(See
the renown of
the renown
of its asparagus with
its asparagus wilh the help of
the help of the
the 'Con- sPrRrTs.)
SPIRITS.)
fraternity ofthe Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASpARAGUS.)
fraternity of the Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASPARAGUS.)
Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few
Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few ARMORICAlNE -- Armorica
ARMORICAIIYE Armorica (older(oider Aremorica)
Aremorica) was was the
the
casks of it are still produced annually. ancient namefor
ancient name regioninin north-west
for aa region north-west France
Francecomprising
comprising
casks of it are still produced annually.
the coastof
thecoast ofGaul, betweenthe
Gaul, between Seineand
the Seine and Loire
Loirerivers.
rivers.
ARGUS PI{EASANT - Bird thus called because of the Armoricaine
ARGUS PHEASANT Bird thus called because of the Armoricainenowadays
nowadaysisisthe namegiven
thename giventotoaavery
verychoice
choice
great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears variety
great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears oysters(q.v.).
varielyofofoysters (q.v.).

46
46
 ARROWROOT
ARROWROOT

(ÀL')
ARMORICAINE(A
ARMORICAINE Corruptionby
V)-- Corruption authorsof
certainauthors
bycertain of Medical opinion
Medical concerning the
opmiOn concerning the use of aromatics in
use of aromatics in
tolerate it,
na meofofdishes
thename
the l'américaine,particularly
calleditàI'amiricaine,
dishescalled particularlylobster.
lobster. cookeryvaries.
cookery varies. Some denounceit,
doctorsdenounce
Sornedoctors it, others
others tolerate it,
yei
and yet others
and insist upon it.
others insist upon it. Formerly the
Formerly the use
of aromatics
Asaaresult
As this corruption,
resultofofthis corruption,thethedish,
dish,so typicallyProvenqal,
sotypically Provençal, use of aromatics
has, in
beenplaced
hasbeen
has placedunder thepatronage
underthe patronageof legendaryArmorica.
oflegendary Armorica. and itrong
and seasoning was
strong seasoning abused. Modern
was abused. Modern cookerycookery has, in
large measure, done away with
large measure, done away with these excesses. these excesses.
AROMA. AROME -- Gastronomically
Gastronomically speaking, this word
speaking, this use of
(treatment for maladies by by the
AROMA. ARoME word
Aromatherapia (treatment
iromatherapia for maladies the use of
describes the characteristic
describes the fragrance ofvarious
characteristic fragrance dishes. The
of variousdishes. The
successfully practised,
practised, often
simply
plants) is
plants) is now
now being
being successfully often simply
word
wordaroma thaneither
strongerthan
aromaisisstronger odouror
eitherodour orsmell. Theword
smel!. The word CONDI-
incorporated in the daily diet. (See SEASONING'
daily diet'
incorporated (See
in the SEASONING, CONDI-
perfume,
perfume, on other hand,
the other
on the more specifically
hand, isis more reserved for
specifically reserved for MENTS.)
MENTS.)
essences and
essences other non-edible
and other substances. It
non-edible substances. is right
It is right and
and
proper
proper that literature should
gastronomical literature
that gastronomical have aa termi-
should have termi- AROMATISE.
AROMATISE. ARoMATIsER To impart some aroma to a
AROMATISER -- To impart sorne aroma to a
aromatised
nology ofits
nology of own. We
its own. We say, the aroma
say, the aroma ofofthis consommé, the
this consomm€, the culinary preparation
culinary preparation or oraa pastry.
pastry. Pastries
Pas tries areare also
also aromatised
with
with liqueurs.
aroma of
aroma of tfus fumel (q.v.),
thisfumet (q.v.), the aroma of
the aroma of this
this coffee.
coffee. liqueurs.
name for
plover.
AROMATIC PLANTS.
AROMATIC AROMATIQUES - A
PLANTES ARoMATIQUES
PLANTS. PLANTES -
A great
great ARPENTEUR -- Common
ARPBNTEUR Common French Frencb name for ployer.
number of
number aromatic plants,
of aromatic plants, with bland or
either aa bland
with either or pungent
pungent An old liqueur made
ARQUEBUSE -- An old liqueur made of various aromatic
ARQUEBUSE of various aromatic
aroma,
aroma, are are used
used as flavourings in
as flavourings in cookery.
cookery. plants.
plants.
The following
The following are among the
are among herbs most
the herbs commonly used
most commonly used Eau d'arquebuse - Also
Eau d'arquebuse - known under
Also known under the the name
of eau
name of eau
in
in the kitchen: parsley,
the kitchen: parsley, chervil, tarragon, rosemary,
chervil, tarragon, rosemary, thyme,
thyme, d'arquebusade. This beverage is obtained
d'arquebusade. This beverage is obtained by infusion or by infusion or
bay leaf, wild
bay leaf, thyme, sage, savoury; and
wild thyme, the following
and the following are
are maceration of
maceration plants (kidney
vulnerary plants
of vulnerary (kidney vetch,
lady's finger,
vetch, lady's finger,
the most
the most common aromatics: garlic,
common aromatics: spring onions,
garlic, shallots, spring onions, wound-wort).
wound-wort).
chives and
chives and onions.
onions.
ARRACACHA or
ARRACACHA ARRACACIA - Plant,
or ARRACACIA- native of
Plant, native of Colum-
Colum-
AROMATICS. lnounrns
AROMATICS. AROMATES -- TakenTaken in its general
in its sense, this
general sense, this
and in in North
America.
bia, which
bia, grows in
wbich grows in the Andes and
the Andes North America.
describes all
word describes substances which
ail substances give out
wbich give out an odour of
an odour of Its farinaceous, produce a flour which is
roots, which
Its roots, which areare farinaceous, produce a flour which is
varying degrees of
varying degrees sweetness. The
of sweetness. number of
greatest number
The greatest of cooked
eaten in
eaten in its country of
its country origin. The
of origin- roots can
The roots also be
can also be cooked
aromatics is provided by plants of
aromatics of hot countries, notably
hot countries, notably like yams and
like yams and sweet potatoes (q.v.).
sweet potatoes (q.v.).
concerned here with aromatics
Arabia. We are only concerned used in
aromatics used in of the arra-
T[e starch which
The starch which is extracted from
is extracted from the the roots
roots of the arra-
cookery, pdtisserie
cookery, pâtisserie and confectionery.
confectionery. cacha similar to
is similar arrowroot.
cacha is to arrowroot.
Without indulging in in the excesses of
the excesses ancient practice,
of ancient practice,
- given to spirit distilled from
distilled from
when scents like rose water and benzoin were used on every
were used every ARRACK.
ARRACK. ARAcK ARACK - Name Name given to aa spirit
fermented rice. Arrack is also distilled either from sugar and
possible occasion, present-day cookery cookery has has at its disposal aa
its disposai fermented rice. Arrack is also distilled either from sugar and
juice which seeps
great number of aromatics. The following are among those those coconut rnilk
coconut left to
milk left ferment, or
to ferment, from the
or from the juice which seeps
most widely used
most widely condiments: dill,
as condiments:
used as pepper' cinna-
dill, betel pepper, cinna- through incisions
through incisions mademade on on the coconut palm.
the coconut palm.In R€union
In Réunion
mon,
mon, cloyes, coriander, bay
cloves, coriander, mace, mustard'
leaf, mace,
bay leaf, mustard, nutmeg, Island-, in
Island, in Madagascar
Madagascar and and in in most parts
most parts of the of the South
South
pepper
pepper andand thyme. Next come the aromatics used used mostly for for African sub-continent, where sugar cane
African sub-continent, where sugar cane is cultivated, the is cultivated, the
food: ambergris,
flavouring food: ambergris, anise, anise, basil,
anise, star anise, cumin,
basil, cumin, name of
name of arrack
arrack is is also given to
also given spirit distilled
to aa spirit distilled fromfrom fer-
fer-
juniper, ginger,
ginger, horseradish, rosemary, sage,
horseradish, rosemary, etc.
sage, etc. mented cane juice (sugar
cane juice (sugar cane juice squeezed out under a
cane juice
fennel, juniper, mented squeezed out un der a
plants are
aromatic plants
Some aromatic
Sorne are frequently
frequently used fresh' for
used fresh, for press).
press).
instance: chervil, tarragon,
instance: chervil, parsley, etc.
tarragon, parsley, The essence
etc. The essence ex- ex-
ARROWROOT -- Name given to
Name given to starchy
starchy extracts obtained
extracts obtained
of oranges, and tangerines
tangerines is is ARROWROOT
from the
tracted from
tracted peel of
the peel lemons and
oranges, lemons from the roots of
the roots of various plants of
various plants of the tropical regions.
the tropical regions'
and confectionery,
confectionery, in in addition
addition to to the
the from
also used.
also Pdtisserie and
used. Pâtisserie There is is aa legend that this
legend that originated because
name originated
this name because the
vanilla, tea, chocolate and and There the
aromatics mentioned, also
aromatics mentioned, also use
use vanilla, tea, chocolate Indians consideied the sap obtained from the roots capable
Indians considered the sap obtained from the roots capable
coffee.
coffee. of healing caused by
wounds caused
healing wounds by arrows.
arrows' Hence Hence the name in
the name
onions are
and onions are dealt with
dealt with of in
Garlic, spring
Garlic, onions,
spring on shallots and
ions, shallots 'arrow-root'. The
English, 'arrow-root'. fact is,
The fact is, however,
however, tbat arrowroot
that arrowroot
in their order, as
alphabetical order,
their alphabetical well as
as weil as English,
under
under separate entries in
separate entries name from
its name
takes its from the
the American Indian word
American Indian word for flour-root, for flour-root,
of carrot,
carrot, celery and parsnip,
celery and which are
parsnip, which are takes
the aromatic
the roots of
aromatic roots araruta.
than aromatics.
aromatics. araruta.
more vegetables
really more
really vegetables than The chief of these
chief of starches isis the
these starches the West Indian arrowroot
West Indian arrowroot
The
(Maranta arundinacea),
arundinacea), thus thus cacalled because the plant from
the plant
(Maranta lied because from
which the
which flour isis produced
the flour originated in
produced originated in the West Indies.
the West Indies.
introduced itit into
English introduced
The English
The into India
India and also called West
and ititisisalso called West
Indian salep.
Indian salep.
plant also
The plant
The grows in
also grows in Madagascar.
Madagascar.
Arrowroot edible and
eminently edible
Arrowroot isiseminently imported into
andisisimported intoEurope
Europe
inin great quantities. This
great quantities. This veryvery delicate starch isis used
delicate starch used inin
thicleningsoups
thickening soups and gravies,as
andgravies, asweilwellasasinin the preparation
the preparation
ofblancmanges,
blancmangei, milk puddings and
milk puddings numeroussweet
andnumerous sweet dishes.
of dishes.
Easilydigestible,
Easily arrowroot isisespecially
digestible,arrowroot especially valuedvaluedasasaafood food
for young children,
for young invalids and
children, invalids andthe theaged.
aged.
LIAIsoN Ài L'ARROWROOT
liaison LIAISON
,Amonnoot liaison.
Arrowroot t'nRRowRoor - - Pour into
Pour into
(lf pints,
litre(li
11litre quart) boiling
generousquart)
pints,generous veal(or
boiling veal (or other) stock,
other) stock,
1Itablespoon arrowroot,weil
tablespoonarrowroot, wellblended
blended with littlecold
withaalittle stock
coldstock
ororwater. Mix,bring
water. Mix, bringtotothe boiland
theboil strain.
andstrain.
Arowroot porridge.
Arrowroot porridge. BOUILLIE t'.nRnowRoor - - Mix
BouILLIEÀAL'ARROWROOT Mix
tablespoons(1(|cup)
33tablespoons arrowrootwith
cup)arrowroot tablespoonsCt6cup)
with33tablespoons cup)
cocold milk taken
Id milk takenfrom from66d!. dl.(l(l pint,
pint,2t2|cups).
cups).Bring Bringthe the
remainderof
remainder ofthe milktotothe
themilk boil,adding
theboil, addingeither either1Iteaspoon
teaspoon
saltoror7575g.g.(3Qoz.,
salt oz.,66tab.lespoons)
tablespoons)sugar. sugar.Pour Poursorne someofofthe the
CellaratatCondom.
Cellar Gers,a aleading
Condom, Gers. centreorofArmagnac
leadingcentre distillation
Armagnac distillation
milkonto
hotrnilk ontothe arrowroot,ththen
thearrowroot, returntotothe thepanpan and cook
(FrenchGovernmenl
(French TouristOffice)
Governrnent TouriSI Ofr.ce) hot en retum and cook

4747
 ARSENIC
ARSENIC

gentlyfrom
gently from 88toto10l0minutes, stirringfrom
minutes, stirring timetototime.
from time time.Stock
Stock vinaigre t t e(see
vinaigrette (seeHORS-D'ŒUVRE).
HORS-D'GUVRE).
canbe
can beused insteadof
usedinstead ofmilk.
milk. Artichoke
Artichoke hearts,
hearts,cooked
cooked and
andchilIed,
chilled, make
make one
oneofofthe
the
Arrowroot pudding.
ArroWToot pudding. POUDING L'.e,nRownoor - _ See
por.lDrNc ÀA L'ARROWROOT See best
bestgarnishes
garnishesfor forcocold
Id dishes.
dishes.They
Theycancanbebestuffed
stuffedwith
with
PUDDING, Semolina
PUDDING, pudding.
Semo linapudding. various
variousingredients.
ingredients.TheyTheyare
arealso
alsoserved
servedasasan
anhors-d'œuvre.
hors-d'euvre.
ARSENIC - Anelement element which
whichisisnormally
normally present
presentin (See
(Seealso
also JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.)
ARTICHOKE.)
ARSENIC-An inminute
minute
quantities ininthe
quantities thetissues of the
tissues of thehuman
human body (thyroid gland,
body (thyroid gland,
gland, mammary gland, head
marnmary gland, headand ind body WHOLE
WHOLE ARTICHOKES.ARTICHOKES.ARCTICHAUTS lncrrcHAurs ENTIERS ENrrERs
thymus
lhymus gland, body hair).
hair).
Certain vegetables (kohlrabi,turnips,
vegetables (kohlrabi, turnips, certain
certaincere Artichokes
Artichokes barigoule.
barigoule. ARTICHAUTS
ARTTcHAUTs BARIGOULE BARrcouLE - - Prepare prepare
Certain cereils;,
aIs), sea
sea -
fish,sea
fish, milk and
salt,milk
seasalt, and egg yolk contain
eggyolk contiin sm small quantitiej ofit,
ail quantities of it,
the artichokes
the artichokes as described inin Whole
as described Whole boi/ed boited artichokes
artich;kes
for the
sufficient for requirements of
the requirements of the
theorganism.
organism.
below.
below.
sufficient
Fill the
Fill theinsides
insides with a duxelles (q.v.)
withaduxelles (q.v.)mixture,
mixture, adding adding to to ititaa
ARTAGNAN (A LA D)
ARTAGNAN (À LA D') -- Name of Name garnish composed
ofaagarnish composedof of quarter of
quarter ofitsitsvolume
volume ininfinelyfinely shredded
shredded fat fat bacon,
bacon, the thi same
same
cèpes preparcd àd lala béarnaise
cCpes prepared bCarnaise (see(see SAUCE),
SAUCE), littlelittl; stuffed
stuffed amount
am_ount of of chopped
chopped lean lean ham,ham, and and sornesome chopped
chopped parsley. parsley.
tomatoes and
tomatoes potatocroquettes.
cork-shaped potato
and cork-shaped croquettes. Surround
Surround the the artichokes
artichokes with rashers or
with rashers or strips
strips of of fat fat
This garnish isis served
This garnish with large
served with large oror small
small pieces
pieces ofof meat bacon,
bacon, and and braise
braise them
meat them as described in
as described in thethe recipe
recipe for for Large
Large
and poultry.
with poultry.
and with
gras (see (see below).
braised
braised artichokes
artichokes stuffed stuffed au au gras below). Finish Finish as is
described in
described in that
that recipe.
recipe.
Note. A
Note. A variant
variant of of this
this recipe
recipe consists
consists of of cooking
cooking the the
stuffed artichokes in
stuffed artichokes in oil
oil with
with aa little
little white
white wine.wine.

SA- InIn home

UCE), the
cookery, in
home cookery,
the braising
in the
braising liquor
the absence
liquor can
absence of
can be be thickened
Demi-glace (see
of Demi-glace
thickened with
(see
SAUCE), with Kneaded
Xneadea
butter (see
butter (see BUTTER).
BUTTER).
Whole boild artichokes.
lVhole boiled artichokes. ARTICHAUTS
ARTTcHAUTs ENTIERS BourLL$ --
ENrrERs BOUILLIS
Cut off
Cut off the
the stalks, pull off
stalks, pull off the
the hard
hard outer outer leaves
leaves and and trim trim
them.
them. Shorten
Shorten them them evenly,
evenly, cuttingcutting off off thethe tops tops to to two-
two-
thirds of
thirds of their
their height.
height. Wash,
Wash, tie tie with
with string
string roundround the the largest
largest
circumference, and and put them,them, basesbases downwards,
downwards, into into aa sauce-
sauce-
pan of
pan of boiling
boiling salted
salted water.
Cook,
Cook, keeping
keeping the the water
water boiling,
boiling, until until done; done; the the timetime
depends on on thethe size
size and freshness of
and freshness of the
the artichokes.
artichokes. Drain, Drain,
dry on on aa cloth,
cloth, remremoveove thethe string.
string. Serve Serve as as indicated
indicated in in thethe
recipe chosen.
The artichokes must must not not be be overcooked.
overcooked. To To ensure
ensure this, this,
test
test the bottom of the vegetable, vegetable, which which should should 'give' .give, under
under
very
very lightlight pressure
pressure when when cooked sufficiently. If
cooked sufficiently. If the
the arti-
arti-
chokes are to be be served cold, put them them in in cold
cold water
water as as soon
soon
as they are cooked.
Boild
Boiled artichokes with with various cold cold sauces. ARTICHAUTS
sauces. ARTTcHAUTS
BOUILLIS -
BouILLrs Boil, cool and
- Boil, and serve
serve with with one one of of the the following
following
sauces: Mayonnaise,
sauces: Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mustard, Tartare, Vinaigrette (see
Tartare, Vinaigrette (see
SAUCE).
sAUCE).
Artichoke
To serve
To serve artichokes
artichokes cold, cold, cook them, them, scoopscoop out out thethe choke,
choke,
Artichoke showing
showing infl orescence
inflorescence
a. Large green
a. Large from Laon
green from Laon b. Camus from Brittany
b. Camus Brittany c. Artichoke
Artichoke bud
bud and remove
and remove the leaves leaves which
which surround
surround it. it. Replace
Replace them them in in the
the
cavity left by the removal of
cavity of the
the choke.
choke. Season Season these these leaves
leaves
with a pinch
with pinch of of chopped chervil chervil and and parsley.
parsley.
Boitd
Boiled artichokes
artichokes with with vrrious
various hot hot sauces.
sauces. ARTTcHAUTS
ARTICHAUTS
ARTICHOKF.
ARTICHOKE. anrIcuAur -
ARTICHAUT - Vegetable derived from
Vegetable derived from the
tbe BOUILLIS -- Boil
BouILLrs Boil asas described in in the
the recipe
recipe for for Whole
Whole boiledboi/ed
cardoon,
cardoon, vastly
vastly improved
improved by by scientific
scientific methods.
methods. ar~ichokes, and
artichokes, and serve
serve with
with one one of of the
the following
following sauces: sauces: White,White,
This plant
This plant has been cultivated
has been cultivated in
in France
France since
since the
the begin-
begin- Butter,
Butter, Cream,
Cream, Hollandaise,
Hollandaise, Mousseline
Mousseline (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
ning of
ning of the
the. sixteenth
sixteenth century
century and
and isis mentioned
mentioned by by Rabelais.
Rabelais. Large braisod
Large braised artichokes
artichokes stufredstuffed au au gras
gras (with
(with meat).
meat). cnos GROS
It originated in
It originated in Sicily,
Sicily, and
and was brought to
was brought to France
France by by ARTTcHAUTS
ARTICHAUTS snArs6s BRAISÉS FARcIs
FARCIS AU AU cRASGRAS - pare
- Pare and and trim trim the the
Catherine de
Catherine de Medici,
Medici, whowho ate many of
so many
ate so of them
them that
that sh!
she artichokes. Blanch
artichokes. Blanch for for 55 minutes
minutes in in boiling
boiling salted salted water.
water.
'cuyda crever' ('almost
'cuyda crever' burst'). (Journal
('almost burst'). of p.
(Journal of P. de
de I'Estoile)
l'Estoile) Plunge into
Plunge into cold
cold water
water or or leave
leave under
under aa runningrunning tap tap to to cool;
cool;
The principal
The regions of
principal regions of French
French production
production are are in
in the
the drain and
drain and remove
rem ove the the choke.
choke.
west (Brittany
west (Brittany andand Anjou);
Anjou); the sou th-east (provence
the south-east (Provence and and the
the Season, stuff
Season, stuff asas desired,
desired, wrap wrap them them in in aa thin
thin rasher,
rasher, or or
Hyères region);
lVbres region); the Garonne valley;
the Garonne valley; the Paris region;
the Paris region; and
and slice, of
slice, offat
fat bacon,
bacon, andand tie tie with
with string.
string. Melt Melt some sorne butterbutter in in aa
Roussillon.
Roussillon. The
The most sought after
most sought are the
after are the laige
large green
green sautépan,
saut6 pan, putput inin finely
finely shredded
shredded bacon, bacon, onions onions and and carrots,
carrots,
artichokes of
artichokes of Laon,
Laon, the camus of
the camus of Brittany,
Brittany, thethe violeiart!
violet arti- and place
and place the the artichokes
artichokes on on this
this foundation.
foundation. Season Season and and add add
choke
choke of ofProvence,
Provence, the green (or
the green (or 'white')
'white') variety
variety of
ofthe
the same
same aa bouquet
bouquet garni (q.v.).
garni (q.v.).
region,
region, and
and the
the large
large macau.
macau. Simmerin
Simmer in butter
butter andand aa small
small quantity
quantity of ofwhite
white wine wine until
until
The
The green
green andand the the violet
violet Provengal
Provençal artichokes
artichokes areare also
also the liquor isisalmost
theliquor almostcompletely
completely boiled boileddown; down; then then add add aa few few
cultivated in
cultivated in North
North Africa
Africa and exported to
and exported France at
to France at the
the tablespoons of
tablespoons of veal
veal stock
stock and and cook cook in in aa moderate
moderate oven oven
beginning of
beginmng of thethe season. The bulk
season. The bulk ofof French
French production
production 180°C. (350'F.,
180"C. (350°F., Gas Gas MarkMark 4), 4), with
with the the lidlid onon the thepan pan forfor 55 55
takes place
takes placeinin the
themonths
months ofofMay
May and and June.
June. to 60
to 60 minutes.
minutes. Baste Baste frequently
frequently during cooking. -
during cooking.
The
The artichoke
artichoke isis aa health-giving
health-giving food,food, and lends itself
and lends itselfto
to Drainthe
Drain theartichokes,
artichokes,remove rem ove stringstringand and bacon,
bacon,and andplaceplace
numerous
numerous delicious
delicious dishes. Whenititisis young,
dishes. When young, and
and therefore
therefore theartichokes
the artichokeson onaadish.
dish. Strain
Strainthe theliquor
liquorininwhich whichthey theywere were
very tender, itit isis eaten
very tender, eaten raw,
raw, dà lala croque-au-sel
croque-au-selwhichwhich means
means cooked and
cooked and skim skim offoff surplus
surplus fat. fat. Stlain
Strain again, again, add'Demi-
add Demi-
with
with 'nought
'nought but but aa grain
grain of salt', dà Iala poivrade,
of salt', and dà lala
poivrade, and glace(see
glace (seeSAUCE),
SAUCE),veal vealstock
stockor orany anyother
othersauce,sauce,according
according

48
48
 ARTICHOKE
ARTICHOKE

to
to the recipe. Boil
the recipe. Boil downdown thethe liquor
liquor and and pourpour overover thethe Proceed described in
as described
Proceed as recipe for Artichokes
the recipe
in the Artichokes barigoule,
barigoule,
artichokes.
artichokes. replacing the daxelles
replacing the mixture by
duxelles mixture by sausage meat with
sausage meat with aa
Large braiscd artichokes
Large braised artichokes stuffed
stulfed au maigre (without
au maigre (without meat).
meat). quarter of
quarter of its weight of
its weight of chopped, lightly fried
chopped, lightly fried onion
onion and and
cRos ARTICHAUTS snalsfs
GROS ARTICHAUTS fARCIS AU
BRAiSÉS FARCIS MAIGRE -- Proceed
AU MAIGRE Proceed as as chopped parsley
chopped added to
parsley added 10 it.
il.
described above,
described above, leavingleaving outout the
the bacon
bacon and and replacing
replacing vealveal Articbokes Ià la
Artichokes la mdnagbre. ARTICHAUTS A
ménagère. ARTIcHAUTs À LA MÉNAGÈRE --
LA rrafr.r,{cins
stock by
stock by vegetable
vegetable stock. stock. Proceed
Proceed as described in
as described in the recipe for Artichokes
the recipe Artichokes barigoule,
barigoule,
Small braised Ilrtichokes. pETITs
braised artichokes. ARTICHAUTS nnusfs
PETITS ARTIcHAUTs BRAJSÉS -- replacing
replacing the the &txelles mixture by
duxelles mixture chopped boiled
by chopped boiled beef beef
These are
These are served
served as as aa garnish
garnish and
and as as aa vegetable.
vegetable. ChooseChoose very
very mixed with
mixed with finely shredded fresh
finely shredded bacon and
fresh bacon and chopped
chopped
young
young small artichokes; pare
small artichokes; them, trim
pare them, trim offthe stalks evenly
off the stalks parsley.
parsley.
and rub
and bottoms with
the bottoms
rub the with lemon; blanch in boiling
lemon; blanch boiling water
water to to Artichokes mirepoix.
Artichokes MIREPOIX -- Put
ARTICHAUTS MIREPoIX
mirepoix. ARTIcHAUTS Put 1212 small
small
which
which has has been
been added
added salt vinegar. Dip
salt and vinegar. Dip in in cold water
water to artichokes, prepared
artichokes, prepared as described in
as described in the for Artichokes
recipe for
the recipe Artichokes
cool,
cool, andand drain. Place them,
drain. Place downwards, in
bases downwards,
them, bases in a buttdred
buttered Clamart. into
Clamart, sauté pan
into a saut6 foundation of
pan on a foundation of 22 dl.
dl. $H pint,
pint,
sauté pan,
saute pan, or heavy frying
or heavy frying pan,
pan, onona a foundation
foundation ofvegetables,
ofvegetables, seant cup)
scant mirepoi.x (see
Vegetable mirepoix
cup) Vegetable (see MIREPOIX),
MIREPOIX), mixed mixed
described in the
as described
as recipe for
the recipe for Large braised artichokes.
Large braised artichokes. Cook tablespoons (3
with 22 tablespoons tablespoons) lean
(3 tablespoons) lean ham eut into
ham cut into tiny
tiny
over a low low heat with the lid on for about l0 10 minutes,
minutes, and dice.
dice.
finish
finish cooking
cooking as described
described above.
above. Simmer for 5 minutesminutes over a low flame, keeping
low flame, keeping the the pan
pan
Drain the artichokes,
artichokes, and and useuse as indicated. Strain the
as indicated. uncovered. Moisten
uncovered. tablespoons (*
Moisten with 44 tablespoons 0 cup) white
white wine.
wine.
braising liquor,
braising reduce, skim off surplus fat, and pour this
liqllor, reduce, this Simmer for minutes, add I1 dl. (6
for 55 minutes, tablespoons. scant
(6 tablespoons, seant it cup)
cup)
sauce over the artichokes.
sauce artichokes. veal caver with
veal stock, cover lid and simmer for
with a lid 35 minutes.
for 35 minutes.
Note.
NOie. Small braised artichokes artichokes can also also be prepared au Serve in
Serve in a vegetable dish. Pour
a vegetable Pour the the mirepoix
mirepoix overover the the
maigre (without
(without meat) by following following the instructions given artichokes, sprinkle with chopped parsley.
artichokes, and sprinkle parsley.
for large braised
braised artichokes
artichokes au maigre.
maigre. Pickled
Pickled artichokes. D'ARTICHAUTS -- Trim
CONSERVE D'AnrIcHAUTs
artichokes. coNSERvE Trim
One can put put the artichokes
artichokes into a buttered sa uré pan with-
saut€ gathered artichokes. Put them, whole
freshly gathered whole or in quarters,
or in quarters,
out blancJüng, provided
out blanching, provided one works quickly
one works quickly enoughenough to in water to which lemon lemon juice
juice has been added.added. Blanch
Blanch them them
prevent their going black. in salted water, allowing l0
salled water, 10 per of salt. Allow
per cent ofsalt. Allow l0 10 minutes
minutes
Artichokes Clamart. ARTIcHAUTS
Artichokes ARTICHAUTS cLAMART CLAMART - - Choose 12 artichokes and 5 minutes for
for whole artichokes quarters. Drain
for quarters. Drain and and
very small young artichokes; artiehokes; trim trlm them and and put them in a refresh in cold water.
refresh
saute pan, or heavy frying pan, with plenty
sauté plenty of butter. Drain them again, into cans, and pour
again, put into the following
pour in the following
Add 225 g. (8 oz., 2 cups)
Add cups) shelled fresh garden garden peas peas and 2 pickling brine:
shredded lettuce hearts.
shredded Season with salt and sugar. Moisten
hearls. Season For 20 litres (4 gallons) water, I1 kg.
(4 gallons, 5 gallons) kg. (21b.)
(21b.) well-
well-
with 3 tablespoons (seant (scant l~ cup) water. Cook Cook with the lid on, refined salt and 2 tablespoons (3
refined (3 tablespoons) lemon lemon juice.
juice.
simmering gently. At the last moment, add aa tablespoon of
simmering of
fresh butter.
butter. Cooki.ng time
Cooking lime time
Cooking lime
This vegctable,
vegetable, being delicate and fragile, can be prepared
being delicate Weighl of cans
Weight of cans with
wilh JI JO°c. ( 230" F.)
l0'C. (230°F.) in a bain-marie
in a bi-metal
bi-melal or aluminium sauté saute pan, or in an earthenware steriliser or canning
pressure sleriliser canning kettle
keltle
or enamelware
enamelware COCOlle, cocotte, and served in the same same dish (to avoid
damage when transferring artichokes to a dish for table).
transferring the arüchokes (l lb.)
500 g. (1 30 minutes
30 1I hour
hour
Artichokes Créey.
Artichokes Cr6cy. ARTICHAUTS
ARTIcHAUTS CRÉCY cnfcv -- Proceed Proceed as 1I kg. (2!
(2{ lb.) minutes
40 minutes 1l|à hours
hours
deseribed
described in the preceding recipe, replacing peas and and lettuce
by anan equal
equal quantity of young peeled carrots. 2 ke. (ai lb.)
kg. (4t minutes
60 minutes 22 hours
hours
Artichokes IlI la
Artichokes la diable
diable or Carciofo àI l'infemo
or Careiofo (Italian
I'inferno (Hlllian
cookery). ARTICHAUTS
oookery). ARrrcHAUrs À A re onnrn -- Lightly
LA DIABLE Ligiltly trim the tips of of Pickled artichokes ili la la grecque.
grecque. CONSERVE o'ARTICIIAUTS
coNsERvE D'ARTICHAUTS
very tender,
very tender, medium-sized artichokes. Remove Remove the choke, A LA
À LA GRECQUE
cRECeue -- This is
- This pickle for
is aa pickJe for which
which onlyonly small ar!i-arti
blanch and drain. Fill the artichokes with a mixture mixture ofbrcad-
of bread- chokes are
chokes used. Large
are used. artichokes have
Large artichokes have ta to be cut into
be cul into
chopped garlic, capers and parsley, and season with
crumbs, chopped which changes the
quarters, wlüch the aspect of ofthis hors-d'euvre.
this hors-d' œuvre.
saltt and pepper.
sal Method. ParePare and trim 100
and lrim small anichokes
100 sma]] artichokes of of the
the same
into aa sauté
Put into
Put saut6 pan pan with oil, packing
with oil, packing them them in in closely. size. As they are
size. trimmed, plunge them
are trimmed, them iotointo the following
following
generously with olive oil and season again.
Sprinkle generously again. Cook in in previously prepared mixture: mixture :
the'oven,
the uncovered, basting frequently. When cooked, the
oyen, uncovered, 55 litres (4t quarts,
litres (41 st
quarts, 5| quarts) quarts) water;
water; 55 dl. dl. (seant
(scant pint,
pint,
artichokes should be be crisp atat the
the tips.
tips. 2f cups)
2~ oil; 11|
olive oil;
cups) olive coriander; 1I teaspoon
t tablespoons coriander; teaspoon
Arrange on on aa dish
dish and sprinkle with the
and sprinkle the oil in which they they peppercorns; 11-
peppercorns; l* tablespoons
tablespoons salt; salt; aa large
large bouquet garni
bouquet garni
were cooked.
cooked. composed of
composed of thyme, bay leaf, fennel
bay leaf, fennel and
and aa slalk of celer)';
stalk of celery;
Dried artichokes.
Dricd artichokes. CONSERVE D'ARTIcHlurs SÉCHÉS
coNsBnvE D'ARTICHAUTS Trim
sfcufs -- Trim and juice of
and the juice of JO lemons strained
10 lemons through aa muslin
strained through muslin bag.
the artichokes
the artichokes and and blanch them them for for 55 minutes in in water
water to to Bring the artichokes to
the artichokes to the boil and
the boil and continue boilingboiling forfor 88
which lem lemon juice has
on juice has been
been added.
added. to 10
to minutes.
10 minutes.
them, and
Drain them, and putput to dry
dry on
on trays in the sun, slow
sun, or in aa slow For aa smaller quantity (20
smaller quanüty artichoke hearts
(20 artichoke hearts or quarters),
or quarters),
oyen. (They can
oven. (They can also threaded on
also be threaded string and
on aa string dried in the
and dried the see Artichokes àd la
see Arlichokes la grecque (HORS-D'GUVRE, Cold
grecque (HORS-D'ŒUVRE,
open air.)
open air.) hors-d'euvre). Cook
hors-d'œuvre). Cook for for 88 toto 10
l0 minutes.
minutes.
For this
For this method of of preserving
preserving artichokes,
artichokes, the the blanching Transfer them, with
Transfer with their liquor, to
their Iiquor, to aa large
large earthenware
earthenware
water must
water must notnot be salted, otherwise
be salted, otherwise saline particles would
saline partieles would crock and
crock allow to
and allow to cool.
cool. Put into 1-
Put into or t-litre
1- or (2- or
|Jitre (2- lJb.)
or l-lb.)
impregnate the the artichokes,
artichokes, drawing humidity and
drawing humidity and thereby
thereby Fill with
cans. FilJ
cans. with the liquor lo
the liquor to within
within the width of
the width of aa finger
finger
desiccation.
preventing desiccation. from the
from top. Seal
the top. hermetically.
Seal hermetieally.
Fried artichokes
Fried artichokes -- See below Artichoke
See below Artichoke hearts fried inin
hearts fried in aa boiler, and
Place in
Place boil 20 minutes
and boil20 minutes for for the~-litre (l-lb.)
the flitre (l-lb.)
baller.
batter. cans and
cans and 30 minutes for
30 minutes for the l-litre (2-lb.)
the I-litre (2-lb.) cans.
cans.
Artichoke fritters. BEIGNETS
Artichoke frilters. D'ARTIcHAUTS -- Thcse
BEIcNETS D'ARTICHAUTS These can
can bebe Artichokes ài la
Articbokes poivrade -- See
Ia poivrade HORS-D'GUVRE.
See HORS-D'ŒUVRE.
served as
served as hors-d'œuvre
hors-dauvre or or asas aa vegetable.
vegetable. (See (See HORS-
HORS- Pur6e of
Purée of artichokes
artichokes for for gamish. punfE D'ARTICHAUTS
garnish. PURÉE D'ARTIcHAUTS --
D'(EUVRE, F"rillers.)
D'ŒUVRE, Fritters.) Half-cook artichoke
Half-cook artichoke heartshearts in in aa white
white vegetable
vegetable courl-
court-
Artichokes ài la
Artichokes la lyonnaise.
lyonnaise. ARTICHAUTS
ARTIcHAUTs À A LAra LYONNAISE-
LyoNNAIsE - bouillon (q.v.), and
bouillon (q.v.), and simmer
simmer in in butter.
butter. Rub through aa fine
Rub through fine

49
49
ARTICHOKE
ARTICHOKE

Artichoke bearts
Articboke i
hearts à lalacrème.
crbme.FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs ÀALA
FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS LA
c,ntrr,rs- - Proceed
CRÈME Proceed asasabove.
above. As Assoon
soonasasthe artichoke hearts
theartichoke hearts
are cooked,pour
are cooked, pour boiIing
boilingcream
cream over them.Simmer
overthem. Simmerdown downby by
half.Transfer
half. Transfer thetheartichoke
artichoke hearts
heartstotoaavegetable Add
dish.Add
vegetable dish.
butter toto the
butter thesauce,
sauce,strain it, and
strain it, pourover
andpour overthe
theartichokes.
artichokes.
AA prepared
prepared cream
cream sauce
saucecancanalso
alsobe
beused forpouring
usedfor pouring over
over
thehearts
the hearts (see SAUCE, Cream
(seeSAUCE, Crearnsauce).
sauce).
Artichoke bearts
Articboke heartsfines
fines berbes.
herbes. FONDS o'AnrrcH^q,urs FINES
FoNDSD'ARTICHAUTS FINES
HERBEs -- Blanch
HERBES lightly, slice,
Blanch lightly, fryinin butter
andfry
slice, and butterininaashallow
shallow
pan. Transfer
pan. Transfer to toaavegetable dish,and
vegetable dish, withchopped
sprinkle with
andsprinkle chopped
cherviland
chervil parsley.
and parsley.
IfIf the
the artichokes
artichokes are veryyoung
are very young and and tender,
tender, sliceslicethem
them
rawand
raw and fry fry inin butter
butterbefore sprinkling with
beforesprinkling with the cherviland
thechervil and
parsley.
parsley.
Artichoke bearts
Articboke hearb fried frid ininbatter.
batter. FONDS
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTTcHAUTSEN E[.r

Preparing artichoke
Preparing artichoke hearts (Scarnati)
hearts (Scarnali) FRrror -- Blanch
FRITOT Blanch the the artichoke
artichoke hearts, hearts, slice slicethem,them, and and
marinate inin oil,
marinate oil, lemon
lemon juice, juice, salt, pepperand
salt,pepper and fines
finesherbes
herbes
sieve. Heat the
sieve. Heat puree and
the purée and add butter or
add butter or cream,
cream, as directed
as directed (q.v.).When
(g.v.). required, dip
When required, dip them
them in in batter
batter and anddeep-fry.
deep-fry.
in the
in the recipe.
recipe. IfIf required,
required, thicken its consistency
thicken its consistency by by adding
adding Drain, season
Drain, season with with fine fine salt,
salt, arrange
arrange them them in in aaheap
heap on onaa
an equal
an equal amount
amount of potato purée.
of potato pur6e. folded napkin, and
folded napkin, garnish with
and garnish frid parsley.
with fried parsley.
Puree of
Purée of articbokes
artichokes soubisée for garnisbes.
soubis6e for punfn D'ARTI-
garnlshes. PURÉE D'ARTr- Gamishd artichoke
Garnisbed artichoke bearts.hearts. FONDS
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTIcHAUTs GARNIS- cARNrs -
CHAUTS sorJBrsfE -- Proceed
cHAurs SOUBISÉE Proceed as as described
described in in the preceding
the preceding Artichoke hearts
Artichoke hearts used principally asaa garnish
used principallyas garnish for for hothot and
and
recipe. Add to
recipe. Add to the artichoke purée
the artichoke pur6e one third of
one third of its volume of
its volume of cold dishes
cold dishes can can be filled with
be filled with various
various mixtures.
mixtures. Here Here are are the
the
Onion soubise
Onion PUREE).
(see PURÉE).
soubise (see main ingredients
main ingredients which which can can he be added
added to to them:
them: for for hot
hot dishes,
dishes,
Artichoke salad
Artichoke salad -- See SALAD, Mixed
See SALAD, Mixed salads.
salads. the artichoke
the artichoke hearts, hearts, cooked cooked in in white
white vegetable
vegetable court- court-
Articboke soufr6 -- See
Artichoke soufflé SOUFFLES, Soufflé
See SOUFFLÉS, Soffii of of various
various bouillon (q.v.)
bouillon (q.v.) andand simmered
simmered in in butter,
butter, are are filled
filled atat thethe last
last
vegetables.
vegetables. moment with
moment with vegetables
vegetables or or other
other ingredients,
ingredients, but but are are not
not
Artichoke stalks.
Articboke stalks. MOELLE D'ARTTcHAUT -- Peel
MoELLE D'ARTICHAUT the stalks
Peel the of
stalks of put in
put in the
the oyenoven to to brown
brown the the tops
tops as as recommended
recommended for for
large artichokes,
large taking care
artichokes, taking care toto remove
remove ail all the
the woody
woody stuffed artichoke
stuffed artichoke hearts.hearts.
casing. Cut them into sticks
casing. sticks 55 cm. (2 inches)
cm. (2 long. Blanch
inches) long. Blanch inin Artichoke hearts
Artichoke hearts intended
intended as as aa garnish
garnish for for cold
cold dishes
dishes are are
salt water flavoured with lemon.
salt water lemon. cooked
cooked in in this court-bouillon, drained,
this court-bouillon, drained, dried,dried, and and filled with
filled with
When they are blanched, artichokeartichoke stalks
stalks can prepared
can be prepared various vegetables
various vegetables which which have have been
been setset in a jelly. Or
in ajelly. Or they
they cancan
in various ways; simmered
in simmered in in butter
butter oror cream
cream in in aa covered
covered be seasoned
he seasoned with with vinaigrette,
vinaigrette, mayonnaise
mayonnaise or or other
other salpicons
salpicons
pan; infritols (q.
pan; infritots (q.v.); (q.v.); curried; with
v.); àd la grecque (q.v.); with gravy.
gravy. (q.v.).
(q.v.).
Artichoke hearts hearts can can also
also be be covered
covered with with aspic jelly or
aspic jelly or
ARTICHOKE
ARTICHOKE HEARTS. FONDS D'ARrrcHAUrs - Artichoke
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS- Chaud-froid sauce
Chaud-froid sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
hearts prepared as
hearts prepared as described
described below
below can can bebe served
served asas aa Filled articboke
Filled artichoke bearts hearts as as garnish
garnish for for cold dishes -- Fill
cold disbes Fill the
the
vegetable or as
vegetable as aa garnish. When slicedsliced and
and blended with aa
blended with hearts
hearts with with various
various buttersbutters whichwhich have have been been pounded
pounded with with
sauce, white or brown,
sauce, brown, they should be be served
served in aa vegetable any of
any of the following: caviare,
the following: caviare, shrimps,
shrimps, crayfish
crayfish and and other
other
dish, in
dish, in aa gratin dish, or
gratin dish, in aa croustade (q.v.),
or in (q.v.), timbale, or
timbale, or shellfish,
shellfish, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, fishfish and
and shellfish
shellfish purées,
pur6es, various
various
vol-au-vent preparation of
vol-au-vent cases. For preparation of the hearts
heart s see Artichoke
see Artichoke salpicons, etc. etc.
hear
hearts ts in cour t-bouillon below.
court-bouillon below. Filld articboke
Filled artichoke bearts hearts as garnish for
as garnisb for bot dir*es -- Anver-
hot dishes Anver-
Artichoke
Articboke heartshearb ià l'allemande.
I'allemande. FONDS D'.enrrcsaurs ÀA
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS soise: hop
soise: hop shoots
shoots in in cream;
cream; argent eu il : purée
argenteuil: pur€e of of white
white
L'ALLEMANDE -
L'ALLEMANDE - Blanch
Blanch the the artichokes lightly and and stew
stew in asparagus;
asparagus; bretonne: bretonne: purée pur6e of of kidney
kidney beans; beans; Compoint:
Compoint:
butter. Transfer into
butter. Transfer into aa vegetable
vegetable dishdish and
and coyer
cover with pur6e of
purée of green
green asparagus;
asparagus; Conti: Conti; lentil
lentil purée;
pur6e; écossaise:
Ccossaise:
Allemande sauce (see SAUCE).
sauce (see brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) of carrots, celery, celery, French
French beans beans and and onions;
onions;
If
If the artichoke
artichoke hearts are too big, cut them into slices. macédoine
macidoine of vegetables vegetables in in butter; princess: asparagus asparagus tips tips
Ardcloke
Artichoke hearbbearts ià la bechamel.
béchamel. FONDS o',mrrcpllr.rs ÀA LA
roNps D'ARTICHAUTS ul and diced
and truffies; Saint-Germain:
diced truffies; Saint-Germain: purée purfie of of fresh
fresh garden
garden
BÉCHAMEL -
sfcHAl'Gr - Proceed
Proceed as as above, using Bichamel
above, using Béchamel sauce (see (see peas; thick
peas; thick sauces
sauces such such as as béarnaise,
biarnaise, Choron, Choron, Henri Henri IV, IV,
sAUCE).
SAUCE). paloise; Vichy: carrots àd la Vichy. (For (For sauces
sauces see see SAUCE.)
SAUCE.)
Artichoke
Articboke hearts cooked cooked in butter - - FONDS
ror.rDs D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTTcHAUTs Artichoke
Articboke bearts herrts ài la la hollandaise.
hltadaise. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTTcHAUTS
fruvfs.q,u
ÉTUVÉS AU seuRRE-
BEURRE- Pare and and trim
trim the artichokes
artichokes as described
described A LA
À norr,c,NDArsE- Cook in
rA HOLLANDAISE- in Court-bouillon IV (see (srCOURT-
COURT-
in
in the next
next recipe. Rub them with lemon, and blanch for 10
recipe. Rub l0 BOUILLOI$, drain,
BOUILLON), drain, put in aa vegetable dish and and coyer
cover with
minutes in boiling salt
minutes salt water
water to which
which a few drops of lemon Hollandaise sauce (see (se,e SAUCE).
SAUCE).
juice
juice have
have been
been added.
added. Artichoke
Artichoke hearts Mornay. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTTcHAUTs MORNAY- MoRNAy -
Drain, put the artichokes
artichokes in a well-buttered
well-buttered saut6sauté pan, Sim
Simmer mer in in butter in aa covered covered pan. pan. Put Put in in aa fireproof
fireproof dish dish
season, sprinkle with
season, sprinkle with melted
melted butter, cook with the lid on
butter, and cook which has has been
been coated
coated with with Mornay
Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
the pan
the pan for 18 to 25 minutes,
to 25 minutes, according
according to their size. Use as as Coyer
Cover the the artichoke hearts hearts with with thethe samesame sauce,
sauce, sprinkle
indicated in
indicated in the
the recipe
recipe chosen.
chosen. with grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and melted butter, and and brown
brown
Artichoke
Articboke heartsbearts in court-bouillon.
court-bouillon. roNos
FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs
D'ARTICHAUTS the top.
AU BLANC -- Strip off
AU BLANc off the
the outside leaves
Ieaves on medium-sized Pickled
Pickled artichoke
articboke hearts. bearts.CONSERVE
coNsERvE DE DE FONDS
FoNDs D'ARTI-D'ARTI-
artichokes. Trim
artichokes. Trim them
them asas evenly
evenly as
as possible,
possible, leaving
leaving only
only the CHAUTS - Choose
cHAUTS- Choose small,small, tender artichokes. Trim Trim themthem with with aa
fleshy middle part.
fleshy middle part. Remove
Remove the the choke, trim the hearts and special peeler or by hand and and put them as as they are are trimmed
trimmed
rub
rub themthem with lemon. Put
with lemon. Put into
into cold water
water as each one is is into
into water water with with lemonlemon juice juice added.
added. Blanch Blanch them them for for 55
trimmed.
trimmed. minutes in salted water (8 (8 perper cent
cent solution).
solution). Drain,Drain, and and
Cook
Cook the hearts in
the hearts in boiling
boiling white
white vegetable
vegetable court-bouillon
court-bouillon refresh in cold water.
refresh
(q.v.).They
(q.v.). They can can be blanched or
he blanched or cooked
cooked until
until soft, according
according Drain again,
Drain again, putput into cans, cans, and and pour
pour over over thethe same
same pickl-
pickl-
to the final
to the final dish chosen. Drain
dish chosen. Drain well.
weil. brine as
ing brine as for Pickled
Pickled artichokes
artichokes (see (see above).
above).

50
50
 ARTOIS AND
ARTOIS AND BOULONNAIS
BOULONNAIS

Cooking time with Cooking time

Cooking time inin stock). Proceed as
stock). Proceed described in
described
as "but in the recipe for
the recipe for artichoke
artichoke
Weight of
Weight of cans cans 110'C. (230"F.) bain-marie or
aa bain-marie or quarters in butter,
buttcr,but finish off with
finish off lemon juice
with lemon juice and
and
pressure steriliser
pressure steriliser canning kettle
canning ketlle chop@fines herbes.
herbes.
Artichoke quarters fried ininbatter.
Ar1IlCI110}{e(11.I1IlrtE~rslmetl QUARTIERSD'ARTIcHA{rrs
batter. QUARTIERS D'ARTICHA1.JTS
500 g. (l
500 e. lb.)
(1 lb.) 20 minutes
20 minutes 40 minutes
40 minutes artichoke quarters.
EN FRrror
EN FRITOT - - Trinn, blanch and
Trim, blanch and marinate
marinatc'artichoke quarters.
I1ke.
kg. (2t
(2i lb.)
lb.) 30
30 minutes
minutes 60 minutes
60 minutes Proceed
Proceed as described in
as described the recipe
in the recipe for Artichoke heartsfried
for Artichoke
in
in batter.
batter.
Artichoke
Articboke hearts stuffed ià la
bearts stuffed la o6venole. FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS
cévenole. FoNDs D' ARTICHAUTS
Artichoke qllllrters ià la
Artichoke quarters la grecque. QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS
grecque. QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS

FARCIS A
FARcrs LA cfvsNore
À Lrq, CÉVENOLE - Blanch -
Blanch the hearts, drain,
articboke hearts,
the artichoke drain,
AÀ Le
LA cneceue -
GRECQUE - Trim Trim artichoke quarters, and
artichoke quarters, and proceed
proceed as as
and sim mer in
and simmer with a
Gamish with
butter. Garnish
in butter. Chestnut purie
a Chestnut purée described in
described recipe for
the recipe
in the for Pickled artichokes dà la
Pickled artichokes la grecque.
grecque.
ftavouroo rith
flavoured with Onion
On ion soubise (sec PUREE).
soubise (see Sprinkle with
PURÉE). Sprinkle with
These
These are are served
served as as cold
cold hors-deuvre.
hors-d'œuvre.
grated
grated Parmesan cheese and
Parmesan cheese and melted and brown
butter, and
meltcd butter, brown thethe Artichoke quarters
Artichoke i
quarters à I'italienne. QUARTIERS D'AnrIcttAUTs
l'italienne. QUARTIERS D'ARTlCHA1.JTS

top.
AÀ t'tr^lttBlttu -
L'ITALIENNE - ProceedProceed as described in
as described in the recipe for
the recipe for
Artichoke hearts stufl'ed à la
hearts sfuffed I chaJonuaise. roNps
la chalonnaise. FONDS D'ARrI-
Artichoke quarters
Artichoke quarters aux fines herbes.
aux fines Finish off
herbe.L Finish with ltalian
off with /talian
sauce (w
D'ARTI-
FARCIS AÂ. r,l
CHAUT'S FARcrs
cHAUTs CHALONNAlSE -- As
LA cnlr,oNNAIsE above. with
As above, with Salpicon
Salpicon
sauce (see SAUCE).
SA UCE).
dci h
la chalornaise (sec SALPICON).
chalonnaise (see SALPICON). Artichoke quarters au jus. QUARTIERS
Artichoke D'ARTtCHAUTS AU
QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS AU

Artichoke
Articboke heorts stuffed ià la
bearts strffed la duxelles.
duxeUes. FoNDs
FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS
D'ARTICHAUTS -
JUS - Proceed as
JUs as described in the recipe for
in the for Artichoke
Artichoke
fARCIS A
FARcrs LA puxsrrns
À r-l DUXELLES -- As wÎth very
As above, with very thick
thîck duxelles
duxelles quarters auxfines
quarters herbes, but
aux fines herbes, but omit
omit the
the herbs.
(q.v.).
(q.v.).
Artichoke quarters Ià la
Articboke quarters QU AR TIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS
la lyonnaise. QUARTIERS D'AR TTCH AUTS

Artichoke stutied à la
Artichoke hearts strffed I la florentine. FONDS D'ARrI-
florentine. FoNDs D'ARTI-
AÀ r,l
LA lvoNrqllse-
L YONNAISE- Proceed as as describedfor Artichoke quarters
described for Artichoke quarlers
n aux fines herbes.
aux fines Finish off
herbes. Finish off with
wÎth Lyonnaise sauce (see
LYDnnaise sauce (see
cHALns FARCIS A
CHAUTS FARcrs À LA rronrNTINE -
FLORENTINE - Simmer the the artichoke
artichoke
sAUCE).
SAUCE).
hearts in
hearts in butter, and fill
butter, and fi.!1 themwith spÎnach that
them with spinach has also
that has also been
been
Slmmered in butter.
simmered Pour Mornay
buttcr. Pour sauce (see SAUCE) over
Mornay sauce quarters ià la
Artichoke quarters
Artichoke la moelle. QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS
moelle. QUARTIERS D'ARTTCHAlITS

spr:inkle with grated cheese,

artichokes, sprinkle cheese, and brown
brown the
AÀ rl
LA noer,rr
MOELLE -- Cook the artîchoke quarters
the artichoke quarters as described for
as described for
the artichokes,
top.
thoseaujus. Finish offwith
tbose aujus. Finish offwith Marrow sauce (see
Marrow sauce SAUCE), and
(see SAUCE), and
Artichoke hearts stuffed i la lyonnaise. FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS
IvelnD.aÏS<e, roNDs D'AR TI CH A UTS
gamish with
garnish with thin slices of
Ihin slices bone-marrow which
of bone-marrow which have
have been
been
poached and drained.
poached drained.
FARCIS A
FARcIs ll
À LA rvoNlqltsn
LYONNAISE - Stuff the artichokes with
- As above. Stuff
quarters ià la
Artichoke quarters
Artichoke la portugaise. QUARTIERS
QUARTIERS
sausage meat and chopped onion which
sausage which have been lightly
have been lightly poRTUGAIsE - Simmer the
fried in butter. D'ARTICHAUTS A
D'AnrrcHAUTs LA PORTUGAISE -
À LA quarters in
the quarters in 44
tablespoons (* (1 cup) together with
oil, together
cup) oil, with 33 tablespoons (scant
tablespoons (seant
Artichoke be.arts stuffed ilt la niEoise.
Articboke hearts niçoise. FoNDS
FONDS o'ARTIcHAUTS
D'AR TlCHAUTS
FARCIS A
FARcIs À ra
LA Ntqotsn - hearts, fry them
- Blanch the artichoke hearts, *l cup) chopped onions.
cup) chopped onions. AddAddzpeeled and pounded
2 peeled and pounded tomatoes,
tomatoes,
and a a little grated garlic
lillie grated garlic and chopped parsley.
and chopped Cook in
parsley. Cook in an
an
in oil, and fill
fil! with Tomato fondue (see TOMATO). Sprinkle
Tomatofon&te
Serve in
gently. Serve dish
uncovered pan, simmering gently. in aa vegetable
vegetable dish
with breadcrumbs and melted butter, and brown the top.
butter, and
and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
witb choppcd parsley.
Artichoke
Artichoke be.arfs
hearts stufTed Pi6montaise. FONDS
stuffed Piémontaise. FoNDs D'ARTIcHAUTS
D' ARTICHAUTS
p$ilroNratss -- Simmer in butter in a covered
PIÉMONTAISE covered pan. ARTICHOKT'., WlNTER.
ARTlCHOKE. lnrrcrulur D'HryER
WINTER. ART1CHAlIT D'HIVER -
- Another
Another
Fill with
Fill with Risotto
Risotto àd lala Piémontaise
Pidmontaise (see RICE), sprinkle
(see RICE). for Jerusalem artiehoke
name for
name (q.v.).
artichoke (q.v.).
with grated Parmesan cheese, and and brown the the top.
hearb stu1Jed
Artichoke bearts stuffed Soubise. FONDSFoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS
o'ARTIcHAUTS mrocmps -- See
ARTOCARPUS. ARTOCARPE BREADFRUIT TREE.
See BREADFRUIT TREE.
soLJBrsE -- As
FARcIs SOUBISE As above, thick Onwn
above. with aa thick Onion soubise isee
soubise (see
PUREE). ARTOIS AND
ARTOIS BOLJLONNAIS -- The
AI\D BOULONNAIS principal food
The principal food rc- re-
of this ancient
sources ofthis
sources province of
ancient province of France
France come from the
come from the sea.
sea.
ARTICHOKE QUARTERS.
ARTICHOKE QUARTERS. QUARTIERS D'ARrIcHAUrs --
QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS Boulogne is
Boulogne is the most important
the most important fishing port in
fishing port in France,
France,
Pare trim medium-sized artichokes and
and Irim
Pare and and culcut them iuto into with the best
with supply of
best supply herring and
of herring Whole eonvoys
mackerel. Whole
and mackerel. convoys
Trim them carefully, rub with
quarters. Trim with lemon, and and blanch lorries carrying
of lorries carrying mackerel,
mackerel, herring, (gurnard) and
gurnet (gurnard)
herring, gurnet and
for 66 minutes in in boiling water water ta to which saltsalt and
and lemon juice
lemon juice other fish
other fish leave this seaport
leave this with supplies
day with
every day
seaport every supplies of of fish
fish
have been
been added.
added. CoolCool under aa cold running tap and
cold running drain
and drain for a11 parts of
all parts of France.
France.
until quite
until quite dry.
dry. The climate of
The climate of this
this region, rather variable,
region, rather variable, isis damp
damp and and
In addition
ln addition to to the specific recipes given in
the specifie in this
this section,
section, not suitable
not suitable for fruit growîng,
for fruit growing, so not much
so nol fruit isis found
much fruit found
most
most ofof tbose given for
those given for small
small artichokes, and and sorne
some of of those there, excepl
there, cider apples.
except eider Cider, together
apples. Cider, with bœr,
together with beer, is is the
the
for artichoke
given for
given artichoke hearts, hearts, ean can be be applied
applied to to artichoke
artichoke main beverage of of the region.
the region.
quarters.
quarters. Artois market
Artois market gardens produce very
gardens produœ good vegetables.
very good vegetables.
Articboke quarters in
Artictoke quarters in but1er.
butter. QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS AU
QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS AU Those around Saint-Omar
from around
Those from Saint-Omar are particularly fine.
are particularly Good
fine. Good
quarters of
BEURR-E -- Blanch quarters
BEURRE of 66 artichokes
artichokes and and put put them
them in in aa quality beef and
quality mutton are
and mutton produced in
are produced Artois; but
in Artois; poultry
but poultry
well-buttered
well-buttered heavyheavy pan. pan. Season,
Season, and moisten with
and moisten with 33 table-
table- and game are only of
and quality.
of average quality.
spoons (scant * cup)
spoons (seant cup) water.water. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with aa tablespoon
tablespoon of of Rivers and ponds abound in fish all kinds.
of ail
fish of Magnificent
kinds. -'Y.l.G'5""'"''''''
melted
melted butter,
butter, bring to to the boil, coyer
the boil, lid and
with aa lid
cover with simmer
and simmcr salmon is
salmon is found io in the
the estuar:ies
estuaries of of the rivers,
small coastal rivers,
the small
gently for
for 30 to 35 minutes. Serve
30 1035 Serve in in aa vegetable dish, pouring
dish, pouring and, in the
and, in the Canche,
Canche, trout with ftesh
trout with flesh of great delicacy.
of great delicacy.
the juices from
from thethe panpan overover the
the artichokes. specialities -- These
Culinary special.ities These are are notnot very
very numerous.
numerous.
quarters aux
Artichoke quartcrs
Artichoke alx fines herbes
fines herbes -. QUARTIERS
QUARTTERS Almost all of
Almost of them
them areare based
based onon seafood
seafood -- fish and shcllfish.
fish aod shellfish.
D'ARTIcHArns AUX
D'ARTICHAlITS Aux FINES HERBEs-
FINEs HERllES Prepare as
- Prepare in the
as in recipe for
the reeipe for The principal specialities of
The principal of the regionare:
the region andouilles (q.v.)
arc andouilles
Artichoke quarters in
Arlichoke in buller. Put in
butter. Put in aa vegetable
vegetable dish. Dilute
dish. Dilute d'Arras and
d'Arras and various charcuterie
charcuterie sucb such as as saucisses
saucisses de
the pan juices wilh
the pan with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant t;| cup) while white (country sa
campagne (country sausages);
usages) ; black (blood) puddings;
black (blood) puddWs;
wine, and boil boil down. tablespoons (scant * cup)
down. Add 33 tablespoons(scant cup) Valenciennes tongue.
th.!cl(ien~~
thickened veal
veal stock
stock and for aa fcw
boil for
and boil moments. Strain trus
few moments. this Beer soup
Beer and leek soup,
soup and latter very
the latter
soup, the popular in
very popular Artois
in Artois
sauce,
sauce, and
and addadd toto itit 1I tablespoon
tablespoon melted melted butter,
butter, aa few drops
few drops and in
and in Flanders; hotch-potch, aa dish
Flanders; hotcn-polCh, of Flemish
dish of origin and
Flemish origin and
of lemon
of juice and
lemon juice and 1I tablespoon choppedlnes herbs
tablespoon choppedfines (q.v')'
herbs (q.v.). woodcock pâté
woodcock pdti of of Montreuil-sur-Mer
Montreuil-sur-Mer - excellent -
excellent dishes
dishes
Pour
Pour the
the sauce
sauoe over
over the the artichoke quarters.
artichoke quarters. which are
which not often
are not nowadays; wild
made nowadays;
often made rabbit wilh
wild rabbil prunes
with prunes
NOle. This recipe
Nore. This recipe can can also prepared au
be prepared
also he aumaigre (without
maigre (without orraisins,
or speciality of
raisins, aa speciality Valenciennes; goose
of Valenciennes; laflamande;
goose àd laftamande;

5l
51
ARUM MACULATUM
ARUM MACULATUM

ffi

kl

Port of
Pon of Boulogne.
Boulogne. On
On the left: trawler
the lefl: trawlerharbour.
harbour.On
On lhe right: harbour
theright: harbourfor
forsmaller
smaller fishing
fishingvessels (percevaf
vessels(Percevaf)

jellied eel; the

the caudière
caudiire de Berck, aa kind
de Berck, kind of
of matelote similar
matelote similar mackerelalso
Canned mackerel
jellied eel; Canned alsocome fromBoulogne,
come from Boulogne,andandareareoften
often
to the
to the chaudrée
chaudrie of of AAunis.
unis. eaten as
eaten hors-d'euvre.
ashors-d'œuvre.
There is
There is naturally
naturally aa whole
whole range
range ofof fish
fish dishes, from
dishes, from Among the
Among pastries and
the pastries and confectionery
confectionery products
products of of the
the
mackerel àd la
mackerel la boulonnaise
boulonnaise to to more
more complicated
complicated disbes
dishes made
made region are
are the Arras hearts
the Arras hearts and
and caramels,
region caramelr, the
theLille
Lille délices,
ddtices,
of various
of kinds of
various kinds of sea fish: burbot,
sea fish: burbot, turbot,
turbot, striped
striped mullet,
mullet, the Cambrai
the Cambrai bêtises, and the
b1tises, and Berck chiques.
the Berck chiques.
smelt, coal-fish (green
smelt, coal-fish pollack), bass,
(green pollack), sole, red
bass, sole, mullet. skate.
red mullet, skate.
But Boulogne
But Boulogne is, is, above
above a1l,all, the
the town
town of of herring
herring and
and ARUM MACULA
ARUM MACULATLTM TUM -- This This plant
plant isis also
also known
known under
under
mackerel - this this can
can be traced back
be traced back toto the ninth century.
the ninth century. The
The the names
the names ofof lords
lords and
and ladies,
ladies, cuckoo-pint,
cuckoo-pint, calfs footand
calf s foot and
mackerel-
herring industry
industry -- herring
herring dried,
dried, smoked, pickled or
smoked, pickled or sold
sold wake-robin.In
wake-robin. French itit isis known
In French known as as chou-poivre (pepper-
chou-poivre-(pepper-
herring
for serving
ready for
ready serving -- has
has assumed
assumed enormous proportions.
enormous proportions. cabbage) because
cabbage) because of of the acridity of
the acridity of its
its leaves
leaves and
and roots. In
roots. In
Herring are
Herring prepared in
are prepared in aa variety
variety ofof ways.
ways. There
There are
are the U.S.A. itit isis sometimes
the U.S.A. sometimes calledcalled wild
wild ginger for the
ginger for the same
same
bloaters, slightly
slightly salted herring which
salted herring which have
have been
been smoked;
smoked; reason.
reason.
bloaters,
salted proper; smoked
herring proper; smoked herring
herring called gmdnrmes;
called gendarmes; The roots
The roots are
are muchmuch valued
valued by by the
the Arabs,
Arabs, who
who cook
cook them
them
sai ted herring
cured and
kippers, cured split; herring
and split; pickled in
herring pickled in white
white wine; cured
cured on hot
on hot cinders.
cinders.
kippers,
herring fillets
herring fi/lets in oil; canned
in oil; canned herring
herring and
and other preparations
other preparations ASAFOETIDA -- Resinous
ASAFOETIDA gum of
Resinous gwn of aa species of oriental
species of oriental
of this
of this fish
fish which
which areare eaten
eaten as hors-d'euvre. .
as hors-d'œuvre In spite
palm. In of its
spite of its offensive
offensive smell,
smell, some
some people
people in
in the
the East
East

. WII~
50 km.
DuDkirk /J/a{Jresse
woodcotk au fumer
Bloaters. Wam
\\ CramiQues·~ChJQueS J Ban
K ouckeborerom. Langues de char
Biscuits \
\~ ..'
Green 80Up ~ Beer 1I0Up
BELGIU
Endiv,e', Cassel '
Chlc:'en ala flamande
Cauilllow~s • Butter. Poultry
St. Omer_ ---.~ Mt des Cats ehe~se • • ,Plum tan
• •• 'Ir Tourcoin~ Galettes '"
Mussels
Salted and Haze\rouck· Juniper..,...·· • Junlpcr
Juniper .Roub
smoked herrings
smoked herrings Mt. des Cal~ ch~ese • ..
Henings augratin
Herrings au gl'arln '. LIr.r.F. AndoUJJf~rles. Taliburs
ULLE.
Steaks O Bab/utes. Cracknel
Steaks /arcr's
farâ~ ..",} ::.

~
Cider

Paris-Plage
Sheep
Cider Sheep
leTouquet-
~~~[:leTouquet.
Jeilied€-ilgMontnmll
Wood
Frogs
Frogs
ekplirés
Cares,
Filled
Fif f

.
Smoked tongues
Sottisesand
Carrés. Sottises and Ddlices

..-. -.!
ed waflles.
waHles. Little
r?noo"'-
Béthune
Little euinouins
QUlnQulnS

'''--''''
Tablettes aL
Tablettes
de Lille
Délices de L"le
au Sl/'op
I
a
\r
siroo

tt
Caudidre,
eets
CrApes
Crt!pes 4ndoul/eftes
Andou;elles 1.::
t.:,
Hotch-potch Rabbit with
Rabbit with prunes
orunes or
or raisins
a Smoked tongues,
Smoked tongues. Goyere
Goyère
berckoises St. Pol Lenr
• Lens Do~~. G~leau carpeaux
G6teau carpeaux
.Valencie~ .. ....
".
iFt.."'tt
'!i;l(0
.. ". ~,,,,,,. \ s'i>~
Denain
Denaln ".," ...
Andouillettes Maubeuge .-.
Coeursdbrras alelo,le de Sambre
BEER Cheese I(om Marville
Marville
Caramels CheeseJrom
lamb
Calves' sweetbreads,
Calves' sweetbreads. Andouilles
Trout. cravfish-
erayiish,
•
+
If
BCtlses, Biscuits Trout,
!
Avesnes.'romrom Helpe.
Hel pe. Che~se
Avefrreraf Irom Marv,lIeana
C h-e.ese
from Maruille anb
Maroilles ,9
RQo"
...."
\s....::roir"'
. ,~
'.'!......,....-l*
.. \O\~
PICARD
PICARD Y
Y
Gastronomic
Gaslronomie map ofArtois
map of Artois and
and Boulonnais
Boulonnais

52
52
 ASPARAGUS

and Far
and Far East use itit as
East use condiment. The
as aa condiment. The Romans added itit
Romans added ing
ing purposes
purposes these fall into
these fall several main
into several main types;
types: French
French
to many dishes
to many dishes under
under the name of
the name sylphium or
of sylphium or silphion.
silphion. asparagus, of which
asparagus, wbich the best known
the best and most
known and most delicious
delicious is
is
Argenteuil asparagus ; Italian
Argenteuil asparagus; asparagus or
!talian asparagus or purple
purple Genoa
Genoa
ASBESTOS.
ASBESTOS. AMIANTE AMIANTE -- Fibrous
Fibrous mineral substance which
mineraI substance which
white Belgian
asparagus;; white
asparagus asparagus;; white
Belgian asparagus German asparagus'
white German asparagus.
is found in
is found eruptive rocks.
in eruptive Asbestos fibres
rocks. Asbestos are sufficiently
fibres are sufficiently There is also green asparagus, which is
also green sub-divided into
is sub-divided into two
two
flexible be plaited
to be
flexible to plaited and
and woven.
woven. TheThe principal
principal characteristic
characteristic
types: small, used
types: used for garnishes and
for garnishes and known
known as as asparagus
asparagus
ofasbestos
of its incombustibility;
asbestos isis its incombustibility; aa piece
piece of asbestic material
ofasbestic material
which is prepared
tips, and large, which like Argenteuil
prepared llke Argenteuil asparagus-
asparagus.
put
put into a blazing fire will
into ablazingfire will not
not burn.
burn.
asparagus can be found in
Early asparagus in France from from February
February
The properties of asbestos
The properties asbestos are
are exploited nowadays for
exploited nowadays for
usually sold at high prices.
onwards, and is usually priees.
the interiors of kitchen
the interiors stoves . Asbestos,
kitchen stoves. being a
Asbestos, being a bad
bad
Method of
Method preparation. This is simple. Scrape,
of preparation. Scrape, or or better
better
conductor, does not
conductor, beat. Unlike metal, it
absorb heat.
not absorb it reflects
reflects still, peel
peel the wash and
asparagus, wash
the asparagus, and tietie into
into medium-sized
medium-sized
by radiation,
by radiation, andand the maximum of
the maximum heat is
of heat obtained with the
is obtained water;
bundles, and
bundles, and cook in aa fairly full pan of boiling
pan of salted water;
boiling salted
minimum
minimum of of fuel, results in a considerable saving of
fuel, which results
allow l|
allow 1t teaspoons
teaspoons salt per litre (lf
per litre (1 t pints, quart)
generous quart)
pints, generous
expense.
expense. When it
water. When is cooked, drain the
it is the asparagus thoroughly
thoroughly
ASCALAPHUS-
ASCALAPHUS - He was
was Pluto's
Pluto's cook guardian of
the guardian
cook and the covered with a napkin,
arrange on a dish covered
and arrange napkin, or or on aa special
according to
Proserpine, according to legend. This position
legend. This position of
of confidence asparagus dish which
asparagus which is equipped with aa flat fiat strainer.
him misfortune, for
brought him
brought he incurred
for he incurred the enmity of
the enmity varies ffrom
cooking period varies
The cooking rom 18 to 20 minutes,
20 minu depend-
tes, depend-
Ceres. Jupiter
Ceres. Jupiter had return Proserpine to Ceres, her
had agreed to return ing on the size and nature of ofthe
the asparagus. It It should not
not bebe
mother, condition that
mother, on condition the girl had eaten nothing during
that the du ring overcooked, as as this renders itit watery andand tasteless.
tasteless.
her sojourn in the
her the infernal
infernal regions.
regions. Ascalaphus revealed
revealed Note. At the end of the season
season asparagus bec little
ornes aa !ittle
becomes
that Proserpine had eaten six grains of pomegranate while while bitter, and
and should be be put into
into fresh
fresh water for aa short
water for short time
she was there, and Ceres turned him into an owl because of
she it has been cooked. Drain thoroughly.
after il
this revelation. Minerva, to
this indiscreet revelation. him in
to console him in his Hot or
Hot or cold asparagus is served
cold asparagusis with various
served with various sauces.
sauces.
bim under her protection.
misfortune, took him
misfortune, protection. When it is
When is to be served running
served cold, it should be left under aa running
tap to cool.
FRÊNE -- The young shoots
ASH. rn6Ns shoots of
of this tree can be eaten in a
salado The seeds
salad. seeds are sometimes
sometimes preserved.
preserved.
FRÉNETTE -- An
ASHDRINK. rn6Nerrp An economical drinkdrink which
which is
be health-giving.
said to be health-giving. Its basis is ash leaves, and the recipe
as follows:
is as
75 g. (3
Boil 75g. (3 oz.,
oz., 3 cups) ash
ash leaves andand 55 g. (lf oz.)
55 g.(li
roasted
roasted chicory
chicory in litres (Si
in 33 litres pints, 6!-
(5| pints, 6| pints) water. In
pints) water.
another
another vessel
vessel dissolve
dissolve 2-!- kg. (51
2i kg. lb.) sugar
(5+ lb.) and 40
sugar and 40 g.
(l\ oz.)
(I-!- (3j pints, 4
oz) citric acid in 2 litres (3-!- 4| pints) water.
Mix the two liquids, leave to cool;cool;then add25
then add 25 g. (l oz.)
g. (1 oz.)
dissolved in water. Pour the
yeast dissolved the whole into aa barrel. Add Add
enough water to make 50 (l I gallons, 14
50 litres (II l4 gallons) and
and
leave to fennent for 12
ferment for 12 days.
Bottle the liquid, corking thethe bottles tightly, and and store in
store in
aa cool
cool place.
The drink isis a kind of
of lemonade
lemonade with aa certain
certain amount
amount of of
alcoholic content.
content.
ASHES. cENDRES -- Residue
ASHES. CENDRES Residue afterafter combustion.
combustion. Various
foods
foods are
are cooked in the
cooked in the ashes
ashes ofof aa wood fire, notably
wood fire, notably Lauris asparagus,'
Lauris asparagus/Argenteuil asparagus
Argenteuil asparagus
chestnuts,
chestnuts, potatoes
potatoes and
and truffies.
truffies.
ASIALIA. ASIALIE
ASIALIA. AsIALIE -- AA deficiency of saliva.
deficiency of It occurs
saliva. It in
occurs in speaking, allow
Generally speaking,
Generally allow about
about 600600 g. (l+ lb.)
g. (Ii lb.) asparagus
asparagus
certain
certain diseases and in
diseases and in certain
certain nervous
nervous conditions.
conditions. per person, served
per person, served with with sauce (see SA
sauce (see SAUCE).
UCE).
Canned
Canned asparagus.
asparagus. CONSERVE D'ASPERGEs -- This
coNSERVE D'ASPERGES This should
should
ASITIA.
ASITIA. ASITIE
ASITIE-- Forced
Forced abstinence.
abstinence. Loss
Loss of
of desire
desire for
for food.
food. not be attempted except with freshly gathered asparagus.
freshly gathered asparagus.
not be attempted except with
ASPARAGUS.
ASPARAGUS. ASPERGE mpnncE -- A A genus
genus of Liliaceae, containing
of Liliaceae, containing Scrape
Scrape offoff the skin and
the skin carefully, but
dry carefully,
and dry but do not wash
do not wash thethe
more than
more than aa hundred
hundred species,
species, found
found in in temperate
temperate and and warm
warm asparagus. Cut
asparagus. Cut off offthe
the ends
ends evenly
evenly so so as to have
as to them all the
have themall the
regions of
regions of Europe
Europe andand America.
America. same length, and
same length, and tie into small
tie into small bundles, choosing stalks
bundles, choosing of
stalks of
Asparagus
Asparagus growsgrows wildwild in in meadows
meadows and and bushy
bushy places,
places, the
the sa
same thickness to
me thickness to ensure cooking.
even cooking.
ensure even
especially in
especially in sandy
sandy soil,
soil, over
over aa great
great part
part of
of France,
France, as as weil
well Special boilers for
Special boilers for asparagus
asparagus can can be be obtained
obtained for for pre-
pre-
as on
as on sandy
sandy coasts
coasts onon the
the Atlantic
Atlantic andand the
the Mediterranean
Mediterranean serving; these are
serving; these equipped with
are equipped with devices
devices forfor controlling
controlling the the
sides.
sides. movement of
movement of the boiling basket
the boiling provided. Fill
basket provided. Fill the
the boiler,
boiler,
In France,
In France, asparagus
asparagus camecame intointo vogue
vogue during
during the the reign
reign according to
according to the instructions given,
the instructions with water
given, with water to to which
which
of
of Louis
Louis XIV,
XIV, thanks
thanks toto Quintinie,
Quintinie, who who waswas the
the first
first to grow
to grow 88 per
per cent
cent salt
salt has
has been
been added,
added, and bring to
and bring to the boil. Put
the boil. Put the
the
asparagus
asparagus for for Le
Le Roi
Roi Soleil.
Soleil. HeHe was
was able
able to
to supply
supply thethe royal
royal asparagus bundles into
asparagus bundles into the
the basket, standing them
basket, standing them up up and
and
kitchen
kitchen with
with asparagus
asparagus all all the
the year
year round.
round. not packing them
not packing them too too closely. Lower the
closely. Lower the basket into the
basket into the
Asparagus (common asparagus),
fficinalis (common
Asparagus officinalis asparagus), has has been been boiler so
boiler that the
so that the asparagus bundles are
asparagus bundles are immersed
immersed up up toto
widely
widely cultivated
cultivated since time immemorial
since time immemorial as as aa garden
garden one-thirdof
one-third their length
of their length andandboil for 33minutes.
boil for minutes.
vegetable.
vegetable. Its Its young
young sprouts,
sprouts, or or shoots,
shoots, areare eaten
eaten either
either Disengage
Disengage the the basket
basket andand dropdrop itit down
down lower into the
lower into the
whole or
whole just the
or just the tips,
tips, i.e.,
i.e., the
the terminal
terminal buds.
buds. In In Spain,
Spain, boiler, sothat
boiler, so two-thirdsof
that two-thirds of the
theasparagus
asparagus tips tips are immersed,
are immersed,
young shoots of
young shoots of aa certain
certain species,
species, which
which have
have long,
long, sharp
sharp and boil for
and boil for another minutes.
another 33minutes.
thorns
thorns onon the
the stems,
stems, are
are also
also eaten.
eaten. Remove the
Remove the basket
basket and plunge itit into
and plunge into aa tub tub ofofcold
cold
AA great number of
great number of asparagus
asparagus varieties
varietiesexist,
exist, but
but for
for cook-
cook- running water,
running water, taking that the
care that
taking care jetsof
thejets of water
water cannot
cannot

53
53
ASPARAGUS
ASPARAGUS

damage the
damage theasparagus tips.Leave
asparagus tips. Leave ininthisthiswater forabout
waterfor about an an
hour.Drain
hour. Drain with with great
greatcare.
care.
Putthe
Put theasparagus
asparagusinto intocans
cansor or preserving jars, placing
preserving jars, placing
some with heads up and others with heads down. Cover with
sorne with heads up and others with heads down. Coyer with
water which
water which has has been
been salted
salted in in the proportion of
the proportion of 300
300g.g.
(11 oz. l| cups) refined salt to l0 litreJ (9 quarts, 1l quarti)
(II oz. li cups) refined salt to 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts)
water.
water.
Cooking time
Cooking time inin
Weight of cans a 115"C: (718"F.) Cooking Cooking time
time inin
Weight of cans a 115°C. (238°F.)
steriliser
steriliser
bain-marie
aabain-marie
500 g.g. (1(l lb.)
500 lb.) l0 minutes
minutes minutes
20 minutes
10 20
I1 kg. (2* lb.)
ke. (2i lb.) l5 minutes
15 minutes 30 minutes
30 minutes
2 kg. (a+ lb.)
2 kg. (41 lb.) 20 minutes 40 minutes
20 minutes 40 minutes
Cnnned green
Canned green asparagus
asparagus tips. tips. CONSERVE
@NsERvE DE porNTss
DE POINTES
Asparagus au gratin
D'ASrERGES vERTEs
D'ASPERGES VERTES -
Divide the
- Divide the asparagus
asparagus stalks into three
stalks into three Asparagus au gratin
parts: the base, the middle and the tips. Asparagus au gratin. ASPERGES
parts: the base, the middle and the tips. Asparagus au gratin. AspERcEs AU GRATTN-
AU GRATIN - Cook in salted
Cook in salted
put the
First put the bases (the toughest
bases (the toughest parts)
parts) into
into aa saucepan
saucepan of of water and drain thoroughly.
and drain thoroughly. Arrange
First water Arrange the
the asparagus in tiers
asparagus in tiers
salted boiling water
salted boiling and boil
water and boil them
them for for 22 minutes.
minutes. Add Add the the in aa fireproof
fireproof dish.dish.
in
middle sections
middle sections and boil for
and boil for another
another 22 minutes.
minutes. AddAdd the tips
the tips Pour Mornay
Mornay sauce sauce (see(seeSAUCE)
Pour SAUCE) over over the tips only.
the tips only. Coyer
Cover
and boil for
and boil for aa third
third 22 minutes.
minutes. Drain
Drain very
very carefully.
carefully. the rest
rest ofof the
the asparagus
asparagus with with greaseproof
greaseproof paper. paper. Sprinkle
the Sprinkle
Put them
Put into cans
them into cans or or preserving jars and
preserving jars and coyer with the
cover with the the sauce
sauce withwith grated
grated Parmesan
Parmesan cheesecheese and
the and melted
melted butter,
butter,
brine as
same brine as in the preceding recipe. brown the
and brown the tips.
tips. Remove
Remove the
same in the preceding recipe. and paper before
the paper before serving.
serving.
Cooking time
Cooking time inin Asparagus ài la
Asparagus la milanaise.
milanaise. ASPERGES
AspERcEs À A LA Dur,c,Nrusn --
r,.l MILANAISE
weight of cans aa 110°
of cans IIT"c: (gT.F.) cooking time
Cooking time in in
Weight C. (230°F.) Proceed as
Proceed described in
as described in the
the recipe
recipe forfor Asparagus au gratin,
au gratin,
steririser bain-marie
aa bain-marie but omit
steriliser but omit the Mornay sauce.
the Mornay sauce.
g. (l lb.) Asparagus ài la
Asparagus la Mornay.
Mornay. ASPERGES
AspERGEs À u MORNAY
A LA rrlonN,ly -- Another
500
500 g. (lIb.) l0 minutes
10 minutes minutes
20 minutes
20 name for
name for Asparagus au gratin.
I1 kg. (2f lb.)
kg. (2i lb.) 15 minutes
15 minutes 30 minutes
30 minutes Asparagus with
Asparagus with noisette
noisette butter.
butter. ASPERGES
AspERcEs AU AU BEURRE
NoTSETTE -- Cook Cook the asparagus by the usual usual method. Serve
2 kg.
2 (a| lb.)
kg. (41 lb.) minutes
40 minutes
40
NOISETTE
Noisette butter (see
Noisette BUTTER) separately.
(see BUTTER) separately.
Cream of
Cream of asparagus
asparagus soup soup -- See SOUP, Cream
See SOUP, Crearn soups.
soups. Alternatively,
Alternatively, arrange arrange cooked and well-drained
well-drained asparagus
asparagus
Aryaragus beaped
Asparagus heaped in croustade àI la
in aa croustade ta Carême.
Car6me. Br.nssoN
BUISSON in aa dish, and keep it warm in the oyen.
in oven. Just before serving,serving,
D'AspERGEs EN cRousrADn A u cmtrr,rn
D'ASPERGES EN CROUSTADE À LA CARÊME -- Cook Cook the the tips
tips ofof sprinkle it
sprinkle it with
with sizzling noisette noisette butter.
thick
thick white asparagus in
white asparagus salted water,
in salted water, keeping
keeping thern
them aa Asparagus àI la
Asparagus mpm,cns A
polonaise. ASPERGES
la polonaise. À rl LA poLoNArsE
POLONAISE - -
little
little underdone.
underdone. Drain Drain andand dry on aa napkin.
dry on Coat each
each one Proceed described in
napkin. Coat one Proceed as as described in the recipe for Asparagus
Asparagus mr au gratin.
gratin.
in
in aspic mayonnaise. Chill
aspic mayonnaise. Chili thoroughly
thoroughly in in aa refrigerator.
refrigerator. Coyer the tips with
Cover with chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and
Arrange in
Arrange in aa low
low flan
flan shell,
shell, made
made of of pie
pie pastry
pastry andand baked
baked parsley.
parsley.
blind,
blind, and and half-filled
half-filled with
with a salad of
a salad of green
green asparagus
asparagus tips tips When
When ready ready to to serve,
serve,pourpour on on sizzling
sizzling Noisette butter butter
and truffes, seasoned with oil and lemon iuice.
and trutHes, seasoned with oil and lemon juice. (see BUTTER)
(see BUTTER) in in which freshly grated white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
have
have been fried until
been fried until light
light golden brown.
brown.
Alternatively,
Alternatively, arrange the the asparagus on a a serving
serving dish
and serve the butter and breadcrumbs
and serve breadcrumbs separately.
separately.
Asparagus soufr6. souffié. See See SOUFFLES,
SOUFFLÉS, Souffii Soufflé of various
various
vegetables.'
vegetables.
Asparagus tips
Asparagus tips for garnisbes. porNTEs
for gardshes. D'ASPERGES --
POINTES D',q,spERcns
Scrape, if
Scrape, necessary, and
if necessary, and cut tips into
the tips
cut the into 5-cm.
5-cm. (2-inch)
(2-inch)
lengths;
lengths; tie tie into
into bundles.
bundles. Cook Cook as described in
as described in the recipe for
the recipe for
Asparagus heaped in a croustade d la Car€me
Asparagus beaped in a croustade li la Carême Green asparagus tlps.
Green asparagus tips. (see
(see below).
below).
IfIf this
this garnish
garnish is used for
is used for hot
hot dishes,
dishes, the the asparagus
asparagus tips tips
Asparagus Ià la
Asparagus la flamande. ASPERGES A
Oamande. AspERGEs À r,,c, FLAMANDE -- Serve
LA rrA,MAr.rDe Serve should
should be added at
he added at the
the very last moment;
very last moment; cook them fiist
cook them first
hot,
hot, with
with melted
melted butter.
butter. Halves
Halves of of hot,
hot, hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggseggs are
are in water, drain,
in water, drain, and dress with
and dress with melted
melted butter
butter or or cream.
cream.
served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates Asparagus
served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates Asparagus makes makes an an excellent
excellent garnish
garnish for eggs which
for eggs which havehave
and mix
and them with
mix them with thethe melted
melted butter.
butter. been scrambled, lightly
been scrambled, lightly boiled,
boiled, auau plat, poached or
plat, poached or in
in an an
Asparagus frid
Asparagus fried inin batter.
batler. FRrror D'ASPERGES -- Cook
FRITOT D'Aspm.cEs Cook thethe omelette. Also
omelette. Also for sorne fish
for some dishes, and
fish dishes, and for
for meat served in
meat served in
tips of large white or green
tips of large white or green asparagus in
asparagus salted boiling
in salted boiling water
water portions -- cutlets,
small portions
small escalopes, noisettes,
cutlets, escalopes, noisettes, small
small fillets,
fillets,
for
for 5 minutes. Drain, dry,
5 minutes. Drain, marinate for
and marinate
dry, and for 30 minutes in
30 minutes in tournedas,
tournedos, etc., etc., forfor calves' sweetbreads, and
calves' sweetbreads, and forfor fowls
fowls and and
oil, juice
lemon juice or
oil, lemon or vinegar,
vinegar, salt
salt and
and pepper.
pepper. When
When nearly
nearly chickens.
chickens.
ready to
ready serve, dip
to serve, dip the
the asparagus
asparagus tipstips into
into aa light
light batter
batter and
and When
Wh en asparagus
asparagus tips tips are intended for
are intended for garnishing
garnishing or or forfor
fry in
fry in smoking-hot
smoking-hot deep deep fat.
fat. Drain,
Drain, dry, season with
dry, season with fine
fine cold salads, they
co Id salads, they must must be dipped in
be dipped in cold
co Id water
water as as soon
soon as as
salt, and arrange in
salt, and arrange in a heap on
a heap on aa napkin.
napkin. they are
they co.oked, and
are co.oked, and well
weil drained. Season with
drained. Season with vinaigrette,
vinaigrette,
Asparagus ià la
Asparagus la Fontanelle. ASPERGES AÀ ra
Fontanelle. lspm.cns FONTANELLE --
LA roNr,lNELLE oror mayonnaise,
mayonnaise, or or bind
bind with mea tjelly.
wi th meat jelly.
Boil
Boil the asparagus in
the asparagus salted water
in salted water andand drain. Serve with
drain. Serve with Asparagus
Asparagustips tipswith cream.porNTEs
witbcretm. POINTESD'AspERGEs
D'ASPERGESAÀr,c, LAcRi;ur
CRÈME
melted
melted butter.
butter.
Soft-boiled
-- Cook asparagus tips
Cook asparagus tips and
and addadd aa few tablespoons of
few tablespoons of fresh
fresh
Soft-boiled eggs are served with
eggs are served with thisthis dish,
dish, the
the guests
guests double
double creamcream whichwhich has has previously
previously beenbeen scalded. Blend inin
scalded. Blend
dipping
dipping the asparagus in
the asparagus in the
the melted
melted butter
butter and then in
and then in the
the lightly
lightly and season. Arrange
and season. Arrange in in aa vegetable
vegetable dish dish with
with tipstips
egg. uppermost.
egg. uppermost.

54
54
 ASPIC

Asparagus tips in butter. porNTEs

Asparagrs D'ASPERGES AU BEURRE
POINTES D'AspERGEs BEURRE- - water, drain again and dry in aa napkin.
napkin.
Remove the the tips from
from a bundle of asparagus; scrape
a bundle scrape and Arrange in aa salad bowl or an hors-d'œuvre
Arrange hors-d'eavre dish. Pour on
dice the rest. Cook
Cook the diceddiced pieces, drain well, weil, and dry in a well-whisked vinaigrette, or aa mixture of oil,
well-whisked oil, lemon juice,
pan over heat. Add small pieces of butter in the proportion proportion salt and pepper. well whisked, so that the sauce
pepper. This must be weil
of 75 g. (3 o2.,6
of oz., 6 tablespoons) butter butter to 250 g. (9 oz.) aspara-
aspara- covers the asparagus in a layer. Serve chilled.
gus, and stir gently. Heap into a dish, and garnish gamish with the White asparagus with
White with cold
cold sauces. ASIERGES BLANCHES
saucesL ASPERGES BLANcIIES
tips, which have been lightly lightly cooked in salted water. AvEc
AVEC sAUcEs Cook the
FROIDES -- Cook
SAUCES FRorDEs the asparagus
asparagus and and drain.
Green asparagus tips. rorvr.ns POINTES D'AspERGEs VERTES -
D'ASPERGES vERTEs - Cut off Arrange
Arrange on a dish serve with one
dish and serve one of
of the following sauces:
the tough stalks, keeping the tender parts of green green aspara-
aspara- Mayonnaise, Mustard,
Mus tard, Tartare, Vinaigrette
Vinnigrette (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
gus. Tie these into bundles of 8 to l0 10 shoots. Cut the lowerlower White
White asparagus with hot
asparagus with bot sauces.
sauces. ASeERGEs BLANcHEs
ASPERGES BLANCHES
part of these bundles into dice, keeping keepillg the actual tips tied AVEc
AVEC sAUcEs cHAUDES -- Cook the asparagus
SAUCES CHAUDES asparagus in salted water
together. and drain.
and drain. Serve
Serve separately one the following
one of the following sauces:
sauces:
asparagus in boiling salted water for 4
Cook the diced asparagus Butter, Bdtarde, Chantilly, Cream,
Bâtarde, Chantilly, Maltaise,
Cream, Hollandaise, Maltaise,
minutes, then add the bundles of of tips. Boil briskly, with the Mousseuse, Noisette (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
saucepan uncovered, for 7 or 8 minutes. Drain the bundles
saucepan
ASPERUI"A. ASPÉRULE -
ASPERULA. ASpERULE - Plant which is is both
both useful
useful and
and
and thethe diced asparagus. Dip
diced asparagus. Dip inin cold
co Id water
water and
and cool.
pleasant. It is also
It is also called
called sweet
sweet woodruff, mugwort, sweet
sv)eet
Proceed indicated in the chosen recipe.
Proceed as indicated recipe. grass and quinsy
grass and quinsy wort. Its white
wort. Its white flowers are used
ftowers are used as
as an
Purée of green
Puree asparagus. prinrn
green rsparrgus. PUREE D'AspERcEs
D'ASPERGES vERTES
VERTES - - infusion, and for distilling
distilling liqueurs.
Cook asparagus tips in fast-boiling,
Cook asparagus salted water, drain, and
fast-boiling, salted northem countries it is
In sorne northern
ln some is also used for flavouring
fiavouring
rub through a a fine sieve. Heat the pur6e,
fine sieve. purée, andand add
add butter sausages.
sausages.
and cream.
cream.
purée is used as a garnish.
This puree ASPIC -- Term which applies to
to aa way of arranging
arranging cold
White ssparagus
asparagus with fried bread. cno0ru GRATINÉE lux
CROÛTE cRlrrNfr AUX It consists
dishes. It consists of putting slices
ofputting slices or fillets of
of chicken, game,
ASPERGES BLANcHES
ASrERGES BLANCHES- - Blanch
Blanch 500500 g. (l lb.) of
(lIb.) white asparagus
ofwhite asparagus various meats, fish,
various vegetables, fruit,
fish, vegetables, etc., into
fruit, etc., into moulded
moulded
tips in salted water for
tips for 8 minutes,
minutes, drain,
drain, and
and simmer
simmer in jelly.
butter until cooked. Cut decrusted bread into slices slices l0
10 cm. Many authors believe that
Many authors this name
that this cornes from
name comes from the
(4 inches)
inch es) long and 6 cm. (2|inches)
long and (21 inch es) wide, and and fry in butter.
butter. serpent called asp, 'whose icy coldness
ca lied asp, coldness recalls that
that of the
Put
Put 77 or
or 88 asparagus
asparagus tips on each each slice
slice of fried bread,
offried bread, sprinkle
sprinkle jelly',
jelly', but it is more probably derived from the Greek word
with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, pour on the butter in which which aspis, which
aspr,s, buckler or shield. It was, in fact, in this
which means buckler
the asparagus
asparagus was cooked,cooked, and brown the top top lightly. form that the first moulds
moulds were made; others were made in
White aspuagus
asparagus with witb melted butter.
butter. ASrERGEs
ASPERGES BLANcHES
BLANCHES the shape of a a coiled snake, doubtless to justify the name
coiled snake, name
AU FONDU *
BEURRE FoNDU
AU BELJRRE - Cook the asparagus
asparagus in salted water, 'aspic'.
drain and serve, piping hot, with warm melted butter. The Whatever its
Whatever its origin,
origin, thethe word
word aspic is applied to
is applied to very
butter should be
butter be melted over over aa gentle
gentle heat
heat and seasoned with
and seasoned different preparations:
preparations: foie Joie gras
gras inin aspic, chicken in
aspic, chicken in aspic,
salt, pepper and a dash of lemon juice.
of lemon juice. partridge in aspic, lobster
lobs ter in aspic,
aspic, fillets
fiUets of oJ sole in aspic.
Pur6e asparagus. pun6n
Purée of white asparagus. D'ASPERGES BLANcHES
PURÉE D'AspnRGES BLANCHES - - For
For methods
methods of aspic aspic preparations
preparations of meat, meat, chicken,
Blanch 500500 g.g. (l
(1 lb.) white asparagus
asparagus tips lips for 8 minutes, game,
game, shellfish and and fish, following entries in their
the following
see the
fish, see
drain, sim mer lightly in butter.
drain, and simmer butter. Season with salt and and alphabetical order: CHICKEN,
alphabetical CHICKEN, LOBSTER, PHEASANT, PHEASANT,
pepper.
pepper. SHRIMP,
SHRIMP, SOLE.
Moisten
Moisten with with 2t dl. (scant 1- pint, generous
2-!- dl. j generous cup) thick Sweet dishes made made of of fruit and set in in jelly
jelly moulds are also
Bdchamel
Béchamel saucesauce (se(see SAUCE). Boil Boil for 15 minutes.
for 15 minutes. RubRub called aspics. The word
ca lied aspics. word aspic is used, too,
is used, too, for the actual
through
through a fine sieve. Heat Heat the pur6e
purée and add butter.
butter. jelly.
jelly.
This purée is used
This purde used as as a garnish for poached or lightly
a garnish ln
In his book
book devoted to cold co Id enties,
entrées, Car6me
Carême describes the
boiled eggs, for
boiled eggs, pieces of
for small pieces meat, for
of meat, chicken, for filling
for chicken, method of preparing aspic jelly as follows:
of preparing
patties and tartlets.
tartlets. 'Clean
'Clean and singe 2
and singe 2 chickens,
chickens, wash wash them them thoroughly,
thoroughly,
White
White aspffagus
asparagus salad. SALADE SALADE D'AspERGEs
D'ASPERGES BLANcHEs
BLANCHES - - truss them, and
truss and place marmite (q.v.) with a round
place in a small marmite
Cook the asparagus tips
the asparagus tips in salted water. Drain,
salted water. Drain, dip inin cold
cold of
of veal, other veal trimmings and a little
veal, other little ham. Add 6 boned
and blanched calves' feet, fill the marmite marmite with water, water, and
leave to cook on a hot stove, but away from from the flame. A
much
much lighter
lighter aspic, easy to
aspic, easy cJarify, is
to clarify, obtained by
is obtained by this
process. Skim thoroughly, and add half
process. half a bay leaf,leaf, a little
thyme and basil, a bunch of parsley and
and basil, and spring onions,
onions, 2
carrots
carrots and and 2 2 onions.
on ions. Keep
Keep the the jelly simmering gently
jelly simmering
for
for 4 hours.
'Whisk 44 egg
'Whisk whites with aa glass
egg whites glass ofofwhite
white wine or or Madeira,
Madeira,
and the
and the same
same amount
amollnt of ofveal stock ififyou
veal stock you wish to give itit some
to give sorne
Arrangement of
Arrangement of aspic, after
after colour;
colour; ifif not,
not, omit
omit the
the stock.
stock. Add
Add to to thejelly,
the jelly, place
place on
on aa high
Carême
Car6me fla me, and whisk until
flame, until the mixture is boiling. Turn heat to
very low. Taste,
Taste, in case a little
little salt is needed.
Coyer the pan and leave
Cover leave to simmer for about about 2 minutes,
when the mixture
mixture should be be clear.
cJear.
Rinse a
Rinse napkin in water,
a napkin wring out
water, wring out well, and tie
weil, and lie the
corners to an upturned chair. Strain the aspic through the
napkin.'
napkin.'
Carême also
Cardme describes how
also describes how aspicaspic should be be coloured:
coloured:
'One of of the principal presentations
presentations of of cold
co Id dishes consists
consists
of these
these clarified, transparent jellies
c1arified, transparent jellies of 2 colours only --
one should be
one be white
white and the other other ofof a good strong colour.'

55
55
ASPIC
ASPIC

Aspic moulds
Aspic moulds

He tells howhow the greatgreat Laguipière

Laguipibre achieved perfect colourings
achieved perfect colourings Aspic crofitons.
Aspic cRo0roNs DE
croOtons. CROÛTONS cnrfs -- Aspics
DE GELÉE Aspics cut cut into
into
jellies: 'Melt
for his jellies: 'Melt granulated
granulated sugar sugar and, without moisten-
and, without moisten- shapes -- triangles.
shapes triangles, rectangles,
rectangles, crescents,
crescents, etc. etc. The jelly must
The jelly must
ing it, let
ing it, let itit colour little by
colour little little on
by little on red-hot
red-hot cinders, which
cinders, which be clear and
be clear and solid.
solid.
should take
should take about quarter of
about aa qu~rter of anan hour. When itit becomes
hour. When becomes When aa number
When number of of croûtons
crotitons have have to to be
be made,
made, pour pour the the
amber-red caramel,
amber-red caramel, moisten
moisten with with half
half aa glass
glass of of water
water andand jelly into
jelly into aa large baking dish
large baking dish to to set. When itit isis quite
set. When quite firm,
firm,
place the
place the pan pan over hotter fiame.
over aa hotter After several
flame. After minutes of
several minutes of turn out
turn out onto
onto aa damp damp clothcloth whichwhich has has been
been stretched
stretched and and
boiling it becomes aa clear amber-red, totally
clear amber-red, totally unlike
unlike the bitter
the bitter fastened
fastened to to aa table.
table. Cut
Cut up with aa knife
up with knife ifif the
the croûtons
cro0tons are are
caramel w
caramel which is allowed
hich is allowed to get black
to get black on on aa high
high fiame
flame andand rectilinear in
rectilinear in shape,
shape, or or with pastry-cutter
with aa pastry-cu tter ifif they
they are
are round.
round.
commonly called
which is commonly "monkey's blood.'"
called "monkey's blood."' The
The technical
technical term term croûtonner
crotttonner de de gelée
gelie means
means to to surround
surround
The modern
The modern method method of of the clarifying process
the clarifying process isis givengiven sorne
some cold
cold foodfood withwith croûtons
cro0tons of ofjelly
jelly cut into shapes.
cut into shapes.
under the
under the entryentitled
entry entitled JELLIES, and and in in the
the one below.
one below. Aspic of
Aspic of freshwater
freshwater crayfish crayfish tails. tails. ASPIC
Asprc DE DE QUEUES
euEUEs
Clarification of of aspic jelly -- To
aspic jeUy To c1arify
clarify 55 litres (4| quarts,
litres (41 quarts, p'fcnnvrssns -- Cook
D'ÉCREVISSES Cook the crayfish àd lala mirepoix
the crayfish mirepoix (see (see
st
5| quarts)
quarts) jellyjelly stock,
stock, addadd 3 eggegg whites and and 500
500 g. (l lb.) lean
g. (lIb.) lean MIREPOIX). Shell
MIREPOIX). Shell thethe tails
tails andand arrange
airange them them in in aa plain
plain
minced beef. Add aa tablespoon oftarragon of tarragon and and aa tablespoon
tablespoon round
round mould
mould which which hashas been
been coated with jelly. Fill
coated withjelly. Fill the
the mould
mould
chervil, roughly
of chervil, roughly chopped. Whisk lightly. Heat
Whisk lightly. Heat the the stock
stock either
either with
with aa Crayfish
Crayfi,sh mousse
mousse (see (see CRA YFISH) or
CRAYFISH) or aaRussian
Russian
aa little until it is tepid, skimming
is tepid, skimming off all the
off aIl fat: this
the fat: this isis im-
im- salad
salad (see SALAD). Chili
(see SALAD). Chill on on ice.
ice.
portant. Bring to to the
the boil, whisking all all the
the time. Lower the
time. Lower the Aspic
Aspic of of fish.
fish. ASPIC
esprc DE porssoNs - This
DE POISSONS - This can can be be made
made withwith
heat and
heat and simmer gently for for 35 minutes. fish
fish of
of various
various kinds,kinds, cutcut in in fillets,
fillets, slices
slices or
or medallions.
medallions. Fill Fill
Rinse a napkin in water, wring out thoroughly, and
out thoroughly, and strain
strain the middle of
the middle of the
the aspic
aspic dishdish with
with aa fishfish mousse
mousse appropriate
appropriate
aspic through
the aspic through the napkin. to the
to particular recipe;
the particular recipe; with with Russian
Russian salad;
salad; or or with
with anyany
Aspic jellyjelly can
can be flavoured with
be fiavoured with various
various dessert
dessert wines: mixture
mixture normally
normally used used forfor cold
cold dishes.
dishes.
Frontignan, port,
Frontignan, port, sherry,
sherry, Marsala,
Marsala, Madeira,
Madeira, Malvasia Aspic
Aspic of of foie gras J.I. ASPIC
foie gras mplc DE DE FOIE GRAs -- Coat
ForE GRAS Coat aa plain
plain
(Malvoisie). These wines, which are
wines, which are only addedadded to to the jelly mould
mould with jelly and
with jelly fill itit with
and fill with uniform
uniform slices slices of of foie
foie gras,
gras,
when it is is tepid, are usedused in the proportion of of 1I dl.
dl. per
per litre
litre garnished
garnished with with large slivers of
large slivers of truffies.
truffies. FillFill the
the mould
mould with with
(3 tablespoons per pint) of
(3 of jelly in thethe case of dessert
dessert wines, jelly. Leave
half-set jelly. Leave on on ice ice toto set. Serve on
set. Serve on aa plate
plate or or inin aa
and 2 dl. in the case of Champagne, Sauternes, Alsatian, or or glass
glass dish.
dish.
other white wines. Aspic
Aspic of of foie
foie gras II. ASPIC
gras II. lsplc DE DE FOIE GRAS -- Coat
ForE GRAS Coat aa mould
mould
Instructions
Instructions for making various aspic jellies will be found found with port-fiavoured
port-flavoured jelly jelly (or jelly fiavoured
(or jelly flavoured with with anyany other
other
under JELLIES, Meat Meat jellies.
jellies. heavy
heavy wine).
wine). Fill Fill with
with truBles
truffes cut cut into
into neat
neat round
round slices,
slices,
Aspics in moulds
Aspics moulds- - Aspics are set set in plain moulds, charlotte- round
round pieces
pieces of of ham
ham or or pickled
pickled tongue,
tongue, and, and, if if desired,
desired, the the
moulds or moulds with a ho
type moulds hole in the middle.
le in whites
whites of of hard-boiled eggs eggs cut cut inin rings.
rings.
Coat the mould with aa thin layer of of jelly, as as indicated in in with jelly. Chill
Fill the mould withjeIly. Chill on on ice
ice or
or in
in the
the refrigerator.
refrigerator.
the recipes. Decorate by pressing pressing intointo the jelly small pieces To
To serve,
serve, turnturn thethe aspic
aspic onto onto aa fiat flat dish,
dish, or or onto
onto slices
slices ofof
of trufre,
truffie, cooked lean harn ham or tongue, and and white
white of hard- buttered bread.bread. If If served
served on on aa dish,
dish, decorate
decorate with with chopped
chopped
boiled egg egg for meat, meat, chicken
chicken or or game
game aspics.
aspics. For fish fish or jelly,and jelly triangles.
jelly.and triangles.
shellfish aspicsaspics useuse pieces
pieces of trufre,
truffie, white
white of of hard-boiled
hard-boiled This aspic can
This aspic can also
also be be made
made by by filling
filling thethe mould
mould with with
egg, the coralcoral of shellfish or slivers of smoked salmon. slices of
slices foie gras
of/oie gras cut
cut out
out with aa shell-shaped
shell-shaped scoop. scoop.

Lobster in
Lobster in aspic (Battendier.
(Battendier. Phot.
Phol. Larousse)
Larousse) Sole
Sole in
in aspic
aspic (Battendier.
(Battendier. Phot.
Phot. Larousse)
Larousse)

56
56

Beef pot-ou-feu (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas)

Beef po t-au-feu (Lasserr e. P ho t. N ico las)
'lnr.
 ASPIC

Chicken in aspic (Roberr Carrier)

5757
Roast
Roastsirloin
sirloinofofbeef
beefgarnished
garnishedwitb
withFrench
Frenchbeans and strips of red pepper,
beans and strips of red pepper,
carrot
carrotsticks aod potato baskets (Phol. .\Iicolas)
sticks and potato baskets (Pfrot. N it'olas\
ASSIETTE

Aspic of frogs' legs Ià I'ancienne.

l'ancienne. Asprc
ASPIC DE
DE GRENouTLLES
GRENOUILLES
À t'lNcreNue
A L'ANCIENNE -- Poach trimmed frogs' legs legs in white wine
flavoured with a sprig
flavoured sprig of thyme and a bay
ofthyme bay leaf. Leave
Leave to cool
in the liquor.
in the Iiquor.
Drain,
Drain, dry, and and coat half
half of completely with a white
them completely
of them white
Chaud-froid sauce based
Chaud-froid based on meatless
meatless stock,
stock, and
and the other
other
half
half with
with a Chaud-froid coloured with crayfish butter
Chaud-froid sauce coloured
(see SAUCE, Compound
(see Compound sauces).
sauces).
Lay
Lay the frogs'
frogs' legs on a wire tray, one by one, and leave
them to get quite cold. Decorate with truffies
them truffles cut in thin
Coat with aspic
slices. Coat
slices. aspic jelly.
jelly.
Arrange
Arrange the the frogs' legs round
frogs' legs round the sides of of a mould which
has
has been coated with jelly,
been coated jelly, alternating them with with peeled
tails. Fill the middle
crayfish tails.
crayfish middle of mould with a Parisian
the mould
of the
(see SALAD), dressed
salad (see dressed with mayonnaise
mayonnaise which
which has
has
thickened with gelatine.
been thickened
been gelatine. Pour layer of aspic
Pour a thin layer aspic
jelly
jelly over
over the
the whole, and chill
whole, and chillonon ice.
To serve, turn
To serye, turn out onto
onto a dish
dish and decorate with a border
and decorate border
of jelly
of croûtons (q.v.).
jelly cro0tons (q.v.).

of cold
Plate of meats (Laroussel
co Id meats (Larousse)

-
Assiettes volantes - This
This term describes a
term describes a selection of
items of food
several items
several one plate, in the
food on one manner of an
the manner
hors-d'euvre, particularly various kinds of salty
hors-d'œuvre, particularly salty foods
foods cut
in thin
thin slices.
slices.
Assiettes garnies -- At the beginning of the
the beginning the nineteenth
century, this
century, this term
term also
also applied to
ta a dish.
Carême says: 'Lunch consisted of six assleltes
Car€me assiettes on which
cutlets, fish, chicken,
veal cutlets, chic ken, game,
game, a side-dish ofof vegetables,
vegetables,
and soft-boiled
and soft-boiled eggs were
were served.'
served.'
Little
Little chicken
chicken aspics
aspics
ASTI
ASTI -- Italian
Italian town (about 25 miles) from
town situated 40 km. (about
Turin. It
Turin. It is
is the
the ancient
ancient Asta
Asta Colonia or Asta
Asta Pompeia of the
Pompeia of
Aspic of poultry
Aspic of poultry and feathered grme.
and feathered game. Asplc VOLAlLLES --
DE voLAILLEs
ASPIC DE
Romans, and is
Romans, famous for its sparkling wine, made from
is famous
slices of
Coat slices chicken or
of chicken game with
or game white or
with white or brown
brown Chaud-
Chaud- Moscato grapes,
Moscato grapes, called
called Asti
Asti Spumante WINE).
Spumante (see WINE).
Coat
sauce (see
froid sauce
froid (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) and and put them in
put them in aa mould
mould which
which ASTRAGAL (Milk vetch). ASTRAGALE
ASTRAGAL ASTRAGALE - - Many varieties of
has been
has coated with
been coated with aspic jelly. Fill
aspicjelly. Fill the
the mould
mould with
with either
either aa astragal grow in Asia; it is also
astragal found in the
also found the temperate
chicken or
chicken or game
game mousse,
mousse, or or with
with some
sorne other
other mixture
mixture used
used regions of
regions of the
the Lebanon.
Lebanon. One
One variety
variety of
of milk
milk vetch
vetch produces
for
for cold
cold dishes.
dishes. gum tragacanth,
gum tragacanth, which
which is
is used
used in confectionery
confectionery and pastry-
pastry-
Aspic of
Aspic of shrimps
shrimps or or other
other shellfish.
shellfish. Asprc
ASPIC DE CREVEITES --
DE cREvETTEs making.
making.
Coat an
Coat an aspic
aspic mould
mould with
with clear fish jelly.
clear fish jelly. Decorate
Decorate the the sides
sides
with
with peeled
peeled shrimp
shrimp tails
tails and
and small
small pieces
pieces of truffle. Fill
of truffie. Fill the
the
middle of
middle the mould
of the mould with
with aa cold
cold shrimp
shrimp mousse mixed with
mousse mixed with
shrimp
shrimp tails
tails and truffles cut
and truffies cut into
into large dice. Fill
large dice. the mould
Fill the mould
with jelly,
with jelly, and
and leave
leave on
on ice
ice to
to set.
set.
Crayfish aspics
Crayfish aspics can prepared in
be prepared
can be in the
the same
same way,
way, using
using
trimmed
trimmed crayfish
crayfish tails
tails and
and crayfish
crayfish mousse.
mousse. Spiny
Spiny lobster
lobster oror
lobster
lobster aspics
aspics are
are made
made by by Using slices of
using slices one or
of one other of
or other of
these shellfish,
these shellfish, together
together with
with thethe appropriate
appropriate mousse.
mousse.
ASSIETIE -- See
ASSIETTE See PLATE.
PLA TE.
Assiette anglaise
Assiette anglaise -- Assortment
Assortment of of cold
cold meats
meats arranged
arranged on on
aa plate
plate oror aa dish.
dish.
The assortment
The assortment usually consists of
usually consists of York
York ham,
ham, salt
salt beef,
beef,
tongue, rib
tongue, rib of beef or
of beef or roast beef. Mortadella,
roast beef. Mortadella, galantine,
galantine,
etc., are
etc., are sometimes
sometimes added
added to to it.
it.
The meat is
The meat garni shed with
is garnished chopped jelly,
with chopped jelly, cress
cress and
and
gherkins. The
gherkins. The assiette anglaise isis served
assiette anglaise served chiefly
chiefly at
at lunch.
lunch.
The term
The term assiettes
assiettesassorties describes various
assorties describes various preparations
preparations
served as
served hors-d'œuvre, thotgh
as hors-d'euvre, though hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre ateare usually
usually Astragal
Astragal
served nowadays
served nowadays in in special
special hors-teuvre dishes.
hors-d'œuvre dishes. a. Astragalus
a. AstragaJus of
of Crete
Crete b.
b. Liquorice
Liquorice vetch
vetch c.
c. Fruit
Fruit

58
58
 ATTELET
AITELET

Another
Another variety produces fruit
variety produces fruit in the form of
of pods,
pods, which,
which, In
In the past, when great number of dishes were
wh en aa great cooked
were cooked
before the
before contained in
seeds contained
the seeds them are
in them are formed,
formed, resemble
resemble thepart
in the fireplace, the burning
fue was actually burning
part where the fire
worms. In
wonns. the past
In the pods used to be added to salads (to
past these pods (to dtre (hearth).
was called the âtre It was in
(hearth). It in the hearth that stews
hearth that stews
mystify guests !).
mystify the guests Astragalus pods
!). Astragalus pods are also pickled in
are also preparations which
and other preparations long time were
which take aa long slowly
were slowly
vinegar, like
vinegar, like capers. cooked, surrounded by hot coals.
There is yet another variety of astragalus, the seeds of
the seeds All these dishes are today cooked in
Ali in ovens heated by gas,
gas,
which, when ripe, are used in cookery.
which, cookery. coal or
electricity, coal
electricity, oil. Quite
or oil. Quite aa few
few gastronomes protest
gastronomes protest
against these methods of
against of cooking, maintaining that
cooking, maintaining that dishes
ASTRINGENT -- Binding,
ASTRINGENT contracting. The
Binding, contracting. vegetable
The vegetable prepared in this way as
cannot taste so good prepared
cannot as when cooked byby
their properties to tannin. Among
owe their
astringents owe Among them are the old methods.
bark of
cutch, bark
cutch, oak, quinquina,
of oak, quinquina, leaves of walnut
leaves of walnut tree, Experience shows that there is nothirig
Experience When
nothing in the claim. When
arbutus tree and bramble, lemon juice, quinces,
bramble, lemon quinces, etc. well-made utensils are used
weIl-made (and kitchen utensils have today
used (and today
ASTRODERME
ASTRODERME - Sea - fish of
Sea fish of an
an unusual
unusual appearance,
appearance, reached aa high
reached high point of perfection),
point of perfection), food
food can
can be
be cooked
cooked
yellowish pink on
yellowish back and sides with black round
on the back round spots, successfully, whatever
successfully, product and whatever
whatever the product the method.
whatever the
alternating with silvery spots on
silvery spots on the Young astro-
belly. Young
the belly.
ATRIPLEX -- Herbaceous
Herbaceous plant of the
plant of the same family as
same family as
ATRIPLEX
have purplish-blue bodies
dermes have
dermes and silvery
bodies and silvery bellies. This
bellies. This goosefoot genus
genus Chenopodium.
Chenopodh*n.
and the
spinach and
spinach the goosefoot
fish, called fel d'America by Nice fishermen,
fei" d'America fishermen, isis well known
weil known
is commonly known as
commonly known orach; itit isis
garden orach;
The atriplex
The atriplex is as garden
along
along the whole of the
the whole the Mediterranean coast of
Mediterranean coast of France and grown
cultivated and
cultivated all over
grown aIl over France. It isis prepared
France. It like
prepared like
(C6te
(Côte d'Azur).
spinach. (See ORACH.)
spinach.
It is chiefly used as an ingredient for bouillabaise
ingredient for bouillabaise...'
Naucratis, in Egypt,
ATHENA EUS -- Greek writer, born in Naucratis,
ATHENAEUS
reign ofMarcus
in the reign of Marcus Aurelius. still al
Aurelius. He was still ive in the reign
alive
of Alexander year A.D.
Alexander Severus, about the year xo.228.228.
Only one of his works has
his works entitled Deipnoso-
has survived, entitled
phistai or Specialists
phistai Specialists in
in Dining, which is
is aa gem of erudition,
giving much
giving much information
information on ancient history
history which we would would
otherwise lack.
ln
In Specialists relating
Specialists in Dining, there are several passages relating
to
to flowers and fruit and
and fruit and their various uses,
their various both practical
uses, both
and
and pleasurable.
pleasurable.
ATIffiMENNE
ATHÉNIENNE (À (A V)
L') -- Name applying
applying to various dishes
to various dishes
which are
are usually
usually flavoured with lightly
flavoured with onion, and
fried onion,
lightly fried and
garnished
garnished with aubergines,
aubergines, tomatoes and
and sweet
sweet pimentos.

Antique
Antique attelets (Collection of
attelets(Collecrion of Dr
Dr GOllschalk. Phot. Larousse)
Gottschalk. Phal. Iarousse)
Athérine

ATTELET
ATTELET -- This word cornes
This word comes from from the Latin hasta,
the Latin hasta, mean-
mean-
ATHÉRINE
ATfffiRINE -- Little Little fish,
fish, with
with aa long,
long, spindle-shaped
spindle-shaped body, body, ing
ing staff
staff oror rod,
rod, and
and inin the
the past
past waswas spelt hatelet.It
spelt hatelet. It isisoften
often
covered
covered with with rounded
rounded scales
scales at
at the
the posterior
posterior end.end. The
The sides
sides
have
used,
used, incorrectly,
incorrectly, to to describe little metal
describe !ittle metal skewers
skewers on which
on which
have aa silvery
silvery stripe,
stripe, the
the head
head isis flattened
flattened on on the
the top,
top, thethe various
various pieces
pieces ofof meat,
meat, sheeps'
sheeps' kidneys,
kidneys, lambs; sweetbreads,
lambs'sweetbreads,
upper
upper jawjaw isis shorter
shorter than
than thethe lower,
lower, andand the
the tee th are
teeth are very
very larks,
larks, etc.,
etc., are
are threaded.
threaded.
smal!.
small. To
To be be precise,
precise, an an allelet little utensil
attelet isis aa little utensil inin the
the shape
shape of ofaa
Two
Two species
species of
of this
this fish
fish are
are known
known on on the
the coasts
coasts ofof France,
France,
where prêtre and faux éperlan. pin or
pin or skewer,
skewer, but with an
but with an orna
ornamental
mental top.top. These,
These, withwith
where theythey are
are called
calledprdtre andfaux iperlan. other items of food
truffies, cocks'
truffles, cocks' combs,
combs, crayfish
crayfish and and other items of food
Common
Common narnes names in in English
English areare silverside
silversideand and sand-smelt,
sand-smelt,
and
threaded
threaded on on them,
them, areare used
usedsolely
solely for for decorating
decorating hot hot oror cold
cold
and the
the fishermen
fishermen taketake enormous
enormous catches.
catches. Other
Other species
species areare dishes grand style.
found dishes served
served in in the
the grand style.
found in in the
the estuaries
estuaries andand Mediterranean
Mediterranean coast coast lakes.
lakes. For grand entrées,
In For arranging
arranging these
thesegrand entries, Carême
Car0me advocated
advocated the the
In the
the U.S.A.,
U.S.A., smelts
smelts correspond
correspond to to this
this fish.
fish. Its
Its fiesh
flesh isis
use of
use of aa great
great number
number of of allelets.
attelets. In In modern
modern cookery
cookery
delicate in
delicate flavour. Athérines
in flavour. Athirines are are usuaIly fried in
usually fried in deep
deep fat,fat, practice
practice this practically abandoned.
but this decoration
decoration has has beenbeen practically abandoned.
but ail
all recipes
recipes suitable
suitable for for small
small bass
bass can
can bebe applied
applied to to this
this Modern
Modern cooks cooks disdain,
disdain, as as aarule,
rule, the
the use
useofof any
anydecoration
decoration
fish.
fish. which
which isis not
not actually
actually edible.
edible.
Afnn (Hearth
ÂTRE (Hearth stone)
stone) -- This
This word
word isis no
no longer
longer used
used today,
today, ItIt isis probable
probable that that the the allelets decorating Carême's
attelets decorating Car6me's
except
except to
to describe
describe the
the central
central part
part of
of the
the baker's
baker's or
or pastry-
pastry- entrées
entriesand and removes
removes were,were,inin fact, fact, edible
edibleandandthetheeffects
effects
cook's oyen.
cook's oven. obtained
obtained were were certainly
certainly beautifu!'
beautiful.

59
59
ATTENDU
ATTENDU

ATTENDU -- French
ATTENDU culinaryterm
French culinary applied totoaadish
term applied dish or
or whichhas
which hasbeen
beenadded concentratedgame
added concentrated gamestock stockreduced
reducedtoto
beverage the consumption
beverage the consumption of of which
which isis intentionally
intentionally post-
post- (q.u.).Finish
afumet (g.v.).
afumet Finish asasdescribed
described ininthe recipefor
therecipe forAttereaux
Attereaux
poned in
poned in order
order toto improve it. Thus
improve it. pheasant should
Thusaa pheasant shouldbe be àdlaIachalonaise.
chalonaise.
attendu, that is,
attendu, that is, kept
kept hung,
hung, before
before being
being cooked
cooked and
andeaten.
eaten. Attereaur auauparmesan
Attereaux pannesan(Parma(Parma style)
style)- - CookCooksemolina
semolina
(q.v.)ininbutter,
(q.v.) butter,andandwhen firm,thread
whenfinn, threadslices
sliceson onthe
theattereaux.
attereaux.
ATTEREAU (Skewer)
ATTEREAU (Skewer) -- In In hishis Dictionnaire
Dictionnaire de decuisine
cuisine etet Addslices
Add slicesofofGruyère
Gruydre cheese.
cheese.
d iconomie (Paris
d'économie (Paris 1836), Burnet, one-time
1836), Burnet, one-time steward steward of of the
the Dip the
Dip attereauxininegg
theattereaux eggand andbreadcrumbs
breadcrumbsand anddeep-fry.
deep-fry.
royal household,
royal household, gives gives the following definition
the following definition of of attereau:
attereau: Attereauxofofcalves'
Attereaux calves'sweetbreads Villeroi.ATTEREAUX
sweetbreads ViUeroi. ATTEREAux DE DE
'Name which
'Name which keepers
keepers of of eating-houses
eating-houses attributeattribute toto aa kind kind RIsDE
RIS DEVEAU vrLLERor - - Braise
vEAU VILLEROI uniform pieces
Braise uniform piecesofofcalves'
calves'
of ragoût
of ragofit made
made of of fiUet
fillet of of veal, cut inin very
veal, cut very thin thin slices. They
slices. They sweetbreads ininaa white
sweetbreads white court-bouillon
court-bouillon(q.v.) (q.v.)and andthread
thread
are studded
are studded with with lardoons
lardoons and and cooked
cooked in in aa piepie dish
dish withwith aa them on
them onthetheattereaux. Finishasasdescribed
attereaux. Finish described ininthe therecipe
recipeforfor
little stock
little poured over
stock poured over them.'
them.' Attereaux àdlalachalonaise.
Atlereaux chalonaise.
Carême, however, in
Car€me, however, in his
his works published before
works published before Burnet's
Burnet's Attereaux of
Attereaux ofchicken livers ài lalamirepoix.
chickenlivers mirepoix.ATTEREAUX
ATTEREAUX DE DE
dictionary, describes
dictionary, describes aa method method of preparation of
of preparation of attereaux
attereaux ForESDE
FOIES VoLATLLE ÀA LA
DEVOLAILLE u MIREPOIX
unBpox - - Fry Frychicken
chickenlivers liversinin
which indicates
which indicates that that this dish isis in
this dish in no no wayway aa ragoût.
ragofrt. In ln butter, drain and
butter, drain and cool.
cool. Thread
Thread them themon onthe theatlereaux,
attereaux.
modern cookery,
modern cookery, attereau
attereau describes
describes both both the metal skewer
the metal skewer with pieces
together with
together piecesofof lean
leancooked
cooked ham, ham,and andsliced
slicedmush-
mush-
on which
on which various
various ingredients
ingredients are are threaded,
threaded, and and the the dish
dish rooms. Coat
rooms. Coat the the atlereaux
attereaux with with aafondue (q.v.)ofofroot
fondue (g.v.) root
itself. This
itself. This is usually served
is usualJy served as hors-d'euvre, but
an hors-d'œuvre,
as an but can
can also
also vegetables
vegetables cut into very
cut into verysmall
small pieces, roll inin breadcrumbs,
pieces, roll breadcrumbs,
be served
be served as as aa small entrde ifif supplemented
small entrée supplemented by garnish.
by aa garnish. and finish
and described inin the
finish asas described therecipe
recipefor for Atlereaux
Attereaux àdlala
Attereaux differ
Attereaux differ from from brochettes
brochettes in in being
being dipped
dipped in in aa chalonaise.
chalonaise.
sauce to
sauce to give
give them
them aa finn firm coating,
coating, rolled
rolled in in breadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, Attereaux of
Attereaux of lambs'
lambs' brains Villeroi. AATTEREAUX
brains Villeroi. TTEREA UX DE DE
and usually deep-fried.
and deep-fried. cERvELLE D'AGNEAU
CERVELLE VILLERoI - - Cut
D'AGNEAU VILLEROI Cut upuplambs'
lambs' brains
brainsand and
The ingredients
The ingredients which which make make up up the the attereaux
attereaux can can be be cook them
cook them in in aa white (q.v.).Cool
court-bouillon (g.v.).
white court-bouillon Cooland anddrain,
drain,
cooked on on wooden
wooden skewers,skewers, and then transferred
and then transferred to to sil
silver
ver and season
and season withwith salt,
salt, pepper,
pepper, oil,oil, aa few
few drops
drops of of lemon
lemon
attelets. The
attelets. The attereaux
attereaux can also be
can also be served without the
served without the juice, and
juice, little chopped
and aa liule parsley. Thread
chopped parsley. Thread on onthethe atlereaux,
attereaux,
skewers on on which they they were cooked.cooked. and finish
and finish as described inin the
as described the recipe
recipe for for Allereaux
Attereaux àdlala
sweet courses can
Sweet can be prepared en
be prepared m atlereau,
attereau, the the method
method chalonaise.
chalonaise.
being the
being the same
same as as that given given forfor savoury
savoury atlereaux.
attereaux. Atlereaux
Attereaux of of calves' brains are
calves' brains prepared inin the
are prepared thesamesame
Attereaux ài la
Attereaux la chalonaise
chalonaise -- Thread Thread the-attereaux
the-attereaux with with manner.
manner.
cocks' combscombs and and kidneys cooked cooked in in aa white
white court-bouillon
court-bouillon
(q.v.), and
(q.v.), and drained. Add mushrooms and and trufHes.
truffies.
Dip the
Dip the atlereaux
attereaux in in Villeroi
Villeroi sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). Roll
(see SAUCE). Roll
them in breadcrumbs
them breadcrumbs and fry in smoking smoking hot deep deep fat.
fat. Drain,
Drain,
season with
season with finefine sait,
salt, and and arrange
arrange on on aa napkin
napkin or or paper
paper
garnished with fried
doyley, garnished fried parsley.
Atterearx ài la
Attereaux la duchesse (dessert) -- Prepare Prepare aa mixturemixture of of
crdme frite
crème frite (see CUSTARD, Fried
(see CUSTARD, Fried custard)
custard) to to which
which have have
added 2 crushed macaroons and
been added and 1I tablespoon
tablespoon crystal-crystal-
lised fruit, cut in very small dice and
lised and steeped
steeped in in rum.
rum. When
firm, thread
firm, thread slices of this this mixture on on thethe atlereau.
attereau. Roll Roll in in
very fine breadcrumbs and deep-fry in in smoking hot hot fat.
fat.
Attereaux
Attereaux à I l'6cossaise
l'écossaise -- Make up up thethe attereaux
attereaux using using
pieces of Pickled
pieces Pick led ox ox tongue
tongue (see(see OFFOFFAL AL or or V ARIETY
VARIETY
MEATS), mushrooms, and
MEATS), and rather
rather thick
thick slices
slices of trufHes.
truffies.
Finish
Finish as described
described in the recipe recipe forfor Attereaux
Attereaux àd la chalonaise.
Attereaux ià h
Attereaux la maralchlre
maraîchère -- Use Use pieces of turnip-rooted
celery (celeriac)
celery (celeriac) previously
previously simmered simmered in butter; mushrooms,
and pieces of cooked
and pieces cooked ham ham for for thethe attereaux.
attereazx. Finish Finish as as
described in the recipe for Attereaux
described Attereaux àd la Ia chalonaise.
Attereaux ià la nigoise
Attereaux niçoise -- Make Make up the attereaux with large
stoned olives
stoned olives stuffed
stuffed with aa pur6e purée of of anchovies,
anchovies, mushrooms,
pieces of
and pieces of pickled tunny. Dip them in in Villeroi sauce (see
Villeroi sauce (see
SAUCE),
SA UCE), with a tablespoon of of concentrated tomato tomato pur6e,purée,
and add add chopped tarragon. tarragon. Finish Finish as as described
described in the the recipe Attereaux
Attereaux of
of lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads
sweetbreads Villeroi
Villeroi
for Attereaux
Atlereaux dà la chalonaise.
chalonaise.
Attereaux ià la normande
Attereaux normande -- Make Make up up thethe attereaux
attereaux by by
threading on plump
threading plump musselsmussels cooked dà la marinidre, marinière, drained,
drained, Attereaux
Attereaux ofof lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads
sweetbreads ViUeroi.
Villeroi. ATTEREAUX
ATTEREAUx DE DE
and stuffed
and stuffed with finely pounded fish forcemeat. Add mush-
with finely RIS
RIs D'AGNEAU
D'AGNEAU VILLEROI
vTLLERoI - Braise
Braise lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads
sweetbreads in in aa
rooms cut cut inin round
round slices. Finish Finish as as described
described in the the recipe
recipe white
-
rooms court-bouillon (g.v.)
white court-bouillon (q.v.) and
and thread
thread them
them onon the
the atlereaux.
attereaux.
for Attereaux
for Atlereaux dà la chalonaise.
chalonaise. Finish
Finish off
off as
as described
described inin the
the recipe
recipe for
for Atlereaux
Attereaux àd la la
Attereaux ià la
Attereaux la pi6montaise
piémontaise -- Make up the the attereaux with with chalonaise.
chalonaise.
slices of
slices polenta (q.v.)
of polenta (g.v.) cooked
cooked in in butter,
butter, and thick thick slices
slices of of Attereaux à la Villeroi can, in addition
Attereaux d Ia Villeroi can. in addition to the basic to the basic
truffies. Dip
truffies. Dip themthem in in egg and and breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and and deep-fry
deep-fry element, also
element, also contain
contain mushrooms
mushrooms cooked cooked in in white
white mush-
mush-
in sizzling
in sizzling fat.
fa t. room court-bouillon and
room court-bouillon and cut
cut in
in slices.
slices.
Attereaux ià la
Attereaux la Saint-Hubert
Saint-Hubert -- Make up up thethe attereaux
attereaux by by Attereaux of
Attereaux of ox palate. ATTEREAUX
ox palate. ATTEREAT.Tx DE DE PALAIS
pALArs DEDE BOEUF
BoEUF --
thread ing on
threading on slices
slices of of pheasant,
pheasant, grouse,
grouse, or or any
any other
other winged
winged Cut the
Cut the ox palate (cooked
ox palate (cooked as as described
described under
under OFF
OFFAL AL oror
game. Add
game. Add slicedsliced mushrooms
mushrooms and and pieces
pieces of of cooked
cooked lean lean VARIETY MEATS,
VARIETY MEATS, Ox palate), into
Ox palate\, into round
round slices.
slices. Put
Put them
them
ham. Dip
ham. Dip the the attereaux
atlereaux rn in Villeroi saucesauce (see (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) to to on attereaux
on with alternate
allereaux with alternate rows
rows of of fried
fried mushroom
mushroom headsheads

60
60
 AUBERGINE
AUBERGINE

a plant originat-
and slivers of
and slivers Coat in
truffies. Coat
oftruffies. in Villeroi
Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE)
sauce (see SAUCE) AUBERGINE or
AUBERGIhIE EGGPLANT -- Fruit
or EGGPLANT Fruit of of a plant originat-
a\low to
and allow cool. Dip
to cool. them in
Dip thern egg and
in egg breadcrumbs and
and breadcrumbs ing in
ing India, known
in India, known also also in France under
in France the names of
and and under the names of
France since
roll
rollinto
intocylindrical
cylindrical shape.
shape. *ilorgrna
melongena and morelle. ItIthas
and morelle. has been cultivated in
been cultivated in France since
the beginning of the seventeenth century. In the U.S.A' it is
Deep-fry sizzlingfat
Deep-fryininsizzling fatand arrangeon
andarrange napkingarnished
onaanapkin garnished the beginning of the seventeenth century. In the U.S.A. it is
with fried parsley.
withfried parsley.Serve withPirigueux
Servewith Périgueuxsauce (seeSAUCE).
sauce(see SAUCE). called eggplant.
called eggplant.·
most used in
Attereaux of
Attereaux oysters Monselet.-
of oysters ATTEREAUX o'suitnns
Monselet. ATTEREAUx D'HUÎTRES There ire
There varieties of
many varieties
are many this plant.
of this plant. The The most used in
vegetable and
MONSELET -- Poach
MoNsELET Poach and and drain
drain oysters. Thread them
oysters. Thread them on on cookery is
cookery is the long purple,
the long purple, which which is is used
used as as aa vegetable and
as aa girnish.
garnish. Among Among other edible varieties
other edible
are: the Bar'
together with
attereaux, together
attereaux, with cooked mushrooms cut
cooked mushrooms cut in
in slices,
slices, as varieties are: the Bar-
bentaie aubergine;the round purple aubergine,the giant New
and thick
and slices of
thick slices truffies. Finish
oftrufles. Finish as described in
as described in the
the recipe
recipe bentane aubergine; the round purple aubergine, the giant New
Attereaux of
for Attereaux
for ofbrains, using Villeroi
brains, using Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE)
sauce (see SA UCE) York aubergine, and
York aubergine, and the round Valencia
the round Valencia aubergine.
aubergine.
based onon fish
fish stock
stock boiled down to
boiled down afumet (q.v.).
to afumet (q.v.). Methods of
Methods ofpreparation.
preparation. There There are are many
many recipes
for coot-
recipes for cook-
based
greatly.
Attereaux of
Attereaux pineapple (dessert).
of pineapple D'ANANAS --
ATTEREAUX D'ANANAS
(ilessert). ATTEREAUx ing aubergines, and
ing aubergines, and the the initial
initial preparation
preparation varies varies greatly.
pieces of
Thread pieces
Thread of pineapple
pineapple on attereaux. Dip
the attereaux.
on the them in
Dip them in aa When this vegetable is to be stewed,
When this vegetable is to be stewed, baked in the oyen or baked in the oven or
salt for minutes to
make its
crime frite (see
crème frite CUST ARD, Fried
(see CUSTARD, custard) and
Fried custurA and bread-
bread- fried, it
fried, must be
it must steeped in
be steeped in salt for 3030 minutes to make its
crumbs. Fry
crumbs. Fry in smoking hot
in smoking deep fat,
hot deep fat, drain,
drain, andand sprinkle
sprinkle excess water
excess water ooze ooze out. out. The aubergines are
The aubergines then thoroughly
are then thoroughly
with fine
with fine sugar.
sugar. dried and
dried and cooked
cooked as indicated in
as indicated in the
the recipes.
recipes.
Serve with
with Apricot
Apricot sauce (see SAUCE)
sauce (see SAUCE) laced laced with
with kirsch.
kirsch. Various
Various uses. Aubergines, cut
uses. Aubergines, cut in dice and
in dice and fried
fried in in butter
butter oror
Serve
eggs (sur le
Attereaux of
Attereaux of salnon See SALMON.
salmon -- See SALMON. oil, can be
oil, can used as
be used as a garrush for
a garnish the following:
for the following: eggs (sur le
(dessert) -- Make
Pompadour (dessert)
Attereaux Pompadour
Attereaux Make up the attereaux
up the attereaux plat, scrambled, poached,
plat, scrambled, poached, fried, fried, or or cooked
cooked in in an omelette);
an omelette);
by threading on slices of
by threading stale brioches,
of stale altemating with
brioches, alternating with fish meunière; lamb
fish meunibre; lamb or mutton chops,
or mutton cutlets or
chops, cutlets ot noisettes;
noisettes;
fried or (see CHICKEN)'
halved apricots which
halved have been
which have cooked in
been cooked in syrup
syrup and tournedosiand chicken
tournedos; and chicken fried or en cocotte (see CHICKEN).en cocotte
drained. Dip them
drained. them in a crimecrème frite (see CUST ARD, Fried
(see CUSTARD, Sliced in
Sliced half lengthways,
in half lengthways, fried fried or grilled, aubergines
or grilled, aubergines can can
breadcrumbs and fry
kirsch. Roll in breadcrumbs be used in the arrangement of poached eggs,
of poached eggs' or fillets of
or fillets of fish.
fish.
custar{ flavoured with
custard) flavoured with kirsch. be used in the arrangement
sprinkle with sugar. Peeled. cut cut in in thick
thick slices
slices and and friedfried or grilled, they
or grilled, they cancan be be
in smoking
smoking hot hot fat. Drain, and sprinkle Peeled,
Attereaux Victoria
Attereaux (dessert) -- Thread
Victoria (dessert) slices of
Thread slices of plum used as a foundation for escalopes,
used as a foundation for escalopes, noisettes, tournedos noisettes, tournedos
pudding on the attereaux, alternating them them with slices of
slices of and other
and other small pieces of
small pieces of meat.
meat.
cooking apples which
cooking which have been steeped in rum. rum. Dip in egg Aubergines ài la
Aubergines h crème
crbme -- Peel Peel 22 firm firm aubergines.
aubergines. Cut Cut
Drain, and
fat. Drain, slices t] cm.
round slices
in round cm. Ct (+ inch) thick, and
inch) thick, steep in salt for
and steep
and breadcrumbs and
and and fry
fry in smoking hot fat.
in smoking and them in
them in salt for
dredge with fine sugar.
dredge minutes. Dry,
30 minutes.
30 Dry, and simmer in
and simmer in butter
butter in in aa sauté
saut6 pan pan or or
frying pan.
heavy frying
heavy pan.
AUBENAS -- Small town in the Ardèche dipartemenl, where
Ard'dche département, fuit before
Just Ulfore serving,
serving, add add I! ltdl'
dl. (i pint,3
(} pint, cup) Cream
1 cup) Cream saucesance
truffies are
truffies found. These,
are found. These, though they may
though they not rival
may not rival the
the (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Stir, taking care
Stir, taking care not not to to damage
damage the the auber-
auber-
(see
flavour of Périgord
P6rigord truffies, are nevertheless excellent.
excellent. Arrange in
gines. Arrange in aa vegetable
vegetable dish. dish.
gines.
Marrons glacis are
Marrons glacés are much-prized
much-prized preserves which are
preserves which are Dilute the pan juice with
the panjuice with 33 dl. dl. (t pint, It
(+ pint, 1| cups)
cups) cream.cream- BoilBoil
Dilute
made at Aubenas.
Aubenas. down by hali remove
by half, remove from from the heat, and
the heat, and add add 50 50 g.g. (2(2 oz',
down oz.,
t* cup) butter. Strain
fresh butter.
cup) fresh Strain and and pourpour overover the the aubergines.
aubergines.
friea aubergines.
Fried AUBERcINEs FRITES
aubergines. AUBERGINES FRITEs -- Cut Cut the the aubergines
aubergines
in thin slices,
in thin dredge with
slices, dredge flour, and
with flour, plunge into
and plunge into aadeep deep panpan
of sizzling
of sizzling oil. Drain, season
oil. Drain, season with with fine salt,and
fine salt, arrange on
and arrange onaa
napkin.
napkin.
Aubergines intended
Aubergines intended for for deep-frying
deep-frying can canalso also be becut into
cutinto
thick square
thick pieces, or
square pieces, orcut fan-wise.
cut fan-wise.
Aubergines au
Aubergines gratin -- Cut
au gratin Cut the aubergineslengthwise
theaubergines lengthwise inin
Mike aa few
half. Make
half. fewshallow incisions and
shallow incisions and leaveleave ininaadish, dish,
sprinkling thickly
sprinkling thickly with with salt. Dry, then
salt.Dry, thenfry fryininsizzling
sizzlinghot hotoil.
oil.
Drain,and
Drain, andwithwitha carefully scoop
spoon carefully
a spoon scoopout outthe thepulppulpwithout
without
damaging the
damaging outsideskin.
theoutside skin. Ch Chopop the pulp,and
thepulp, andadd addtotoititan an
quantity of
equal quantity
equal ofduxelles
duxelles(q.v.) (q.v.)mixture
mixtureand andaatablespoon
tablespoon
ofofchopped parsley.
chopped parsley.
ile aubergine
Fill the
Fill aubergineskins skinswith withthis mixture,and
thismixture, andput putthem
them
intoaabuttered
into buttered or fireproofdish.
oiledfireproof
oroiled Sprinklewith
dish.Sprinkle withfinely
finely
gratedbreadcrumbs,
grated breadcrumbs, fresh freshor ortoasted,
toasted,add meltedbutter
addmelted butteroror
aafewfewdrops
dropsof ofoil,oil,and
andbrownbrown the thetop.toP.
Whencooked,
When Cooked,pipe borderofofDemi-glace
pipea aborder Demi'glace(see SAUCE)
(seeSAUCE)
around the
around theaubergines.
aubergines.
Auberginesau
Aubergines gratinà i lalacatalane
augratin catalane- - Halve Halveaubergines,
aubergines,
scoopout
scoop outthe pulp,chchop
thepulp, op it,it,and
andmix mixititwithwith1Ihard-boiled
hard-boiledegg egg
choppedup
chopped finely.Add
upfinely. tablespoonofofchopped
Adda atablespoon choppedonion o-nign
whiifihas
which hasbeen lightlyfried
beenIightly friedininoil, tablespoonofoffinely
oil,a atablespoon finely
gratedbreadcrumbs,
grated breadcrumbs,sorne somechopped choppedparsley parsleyand andgarlic.
garlic.
Finishcooking
Finish cookingasasabove. above.
Auberginesauaugratin
Aubergines gratinà il'italienne
I'italienne- -Halve Halveaubergines,
aubergines,asas
above,and
above, andmix mixthe tfechopped
choppedpulp pulpwith withananequal equalquantityquantityofof
risottoand
risotto littlechopped
anda alittle choppedparsley parsleyand garlic.Finish
andgarlic. Finishcook-cook-
ingasasabove.
ing above.
Varieties
Varietiesofofaubergines
aubergines
Auberginesauaugratin
Aubergines gratinà i lalalanguedocienne
languedocienne- -Method Methodasas
1. 1.Long purple2.2.Very
Longpurple Veryearly
earlyBarbentane
Barbentane
3. 3.Very
Verylarge
largeround purple4.4.Very
roundpurple Veryearly
earlydwarf purple
dwarfpurple above,filling
above, fillingthe theaubergine
auberginehalves halveswith withsausagesausagemeaL meat'
Finishcooking
Finish cookingasasabove. above.

616l
AUBERGINE
AUBERGINE

Aubergines
Aubergines Imam Baaldi (Robert
Imam Baaldi (Robert Carrier)
Carrier)

62
62
 AUK

au gratin
Aubergioes au
Aubergines i
portugaise - Method
gratin à lala portugaise Method as -
as above.
above. added to
added to the aubergines before
the aubergines before rubbing
rubbing them them through
througb the the
Fill the aubergine
Fi)) the halves with
aubergine halves with their chopped pulp
their chopped pulp to
to which
which sievewill
sieve willgive
givethe puréeaamore
Ihepur6e more substantial consistency, and
substantial consistency, and
has added an
been added
has been an equal quantity of
equal quantity of chopped
chopped tomatoes
tomatoes will make ititwhiter.
will make wruler .
lightly fried in
lightly fried in butter, chopped onion,
butter, chopped parsley and
onion, parsley and garlic.
garlic . Aubergine salad.
Aubergine SALADE D'AUBERcINEs
salad. sALADE Peel the auber-
D'AUBERGINES -- Peel the auber-
Finishcooking
Finish cooking as as above.
above. gines, eut into
gines, cut into thin slices, and
Ihin slices, leave to
and leave stand in
10 stand dish with
in aa dish with
Auberginesau
Aubergines gratiniàlala reine-
augratin reine - Method
Melhod as ahove. Fill
as above. Fil) the
the sail. Dry,
salt. season dil Ia
Dry, season vinaigrelle (see
la vinaigrette SAUCE, Cold
(see SAUCE, Cold Sauces),
Sauces),
aubergine halves
aubergine halves with
with their chopped pulp
their chopped mixed with
pulp mixed with an an and add chopped
and add chervil and
chopped chervil and tarragon.
tarragon.
equaJ quantity
equal quantity of salpicon (q.v.)
of salpicon (q.v.) of bound with
crucken bound
of chicken with 22 NOle. This
,l/ote. salad can
Th.is salad can alsoalso be prepared with
be prepared with aubergines
aubergines
tablespoons (3
tablespoons tablespoons) thick
(3 tablespoons) thick Velouti
Velouté s&tce
sauce (see (see which
which have
have been cooked in salted water,
been cooked in salted drained and
water, drained and dried.
dried.
SAUCE).
SAUCE). FinishFinish cooking
cooking as as above.
above . Saut6ed
Sautéed aubergines. AUBERGINES SAUTÉES --
aubergines. AUBERGINES sic.urEns Peel
Peel thethe
Aubergines au
Aubergines gratin iIII lata toulousaine-
au gratin toulousaine- Peel the aubergines,
Peel the aubergines, aubergines and
aubergines them into
eut them
and cut into 4-cm. (l]-inch) square pieces.
4-cm . (I-t-inch) square pieces .
cut into
cut into thick
truck slices, across or
slices, across lengthways, and
or lengthways, leave in
and leave inaa dish
dish Leave to
Leave stand in
to stand dish with
in aa dish salt. Dry,
with salt. dredge with
Dry, dredge with flour,
flour,
sprinkled with
sprinkled salt. Dry,
with salt. Dry, and and toss in aa pan
toss in pan ofof hot
hot oil.
oil. and sauté the
and saut6 pieces in
the pieces in oil, butter or
oil, butter other fat
or other over brisk
fat over brisk heat.
heal.
Arrange in
Arrange layers in
in layers in aa fireproof
fireproof dishdish in rows, alternating
in rows, alternating Serve sprinkled with
Serve sprinkled chopped parsley.
with chopped parsley.
AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES -- Prepare the
with an
with quantity of
equal quantity
an equal tomatoes cut
of tomatoes eut in half and
in half and alsoalso Aubergire soufflés, AUBERcINES
Aubergine souffies. sounrr6rs Prepare the
tossed in
tossed in oil.
oil. aubergines as
aubergines described in
as described in the recipe fot
the recipe for Aubergines
Aubergines au au
generously with
SprinkJe generously
Sprinkle freshly grated
witb freshly grated breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs gratin.
gratin. RubRub the scooped-out pulp
the scooped-out pulp through sieve. Add
through aa sieve. Add an an
mixed with
mixed chopped garlic
wilh chopped garlic and and parsley. Pour on aa little
parsley. Pour littJe oil
oil quantity of
equal quantity
equal of thick Béchamel sauce
thick Bichamel (see
sauce (see SAUCE).SAUCE) .
brown in
and brown
and in the
the oven.
oyen . Bind
Bind with yolks of
with yolks egg and
or egg season with
and season salt, pepper
with salt, pepper and and aa
This
This dish dish is somelimes called
is sometimes aubergines d
called aubergines ci la ia little
liule grated nutmeg. At
graled nutmeg. At thethe last moment fold
last moment fold in whites of
in whites of
languedocienne.
languedocienne. egg whisked to
egg whisked stift' froth.
to aa stiff froth .
Aubergioes au gratin ili la
Aubergines turque -- Fill
la turque Fill aubergine
au bergine halves
halves Fill the aubergine
FiU the aubergine skinsskins withwith the put them
mixture, pUI (hem into aa
the mixture, into
with their chopped pulp mixed with
pulp mixed with an quantity of
an equal quantity of dish, in
fireproof dish, and cook in a moderate oven
fireproof and cook a moderate oven forfor 8 8 to
to 10
10
mutton, and rice cooked in
braised chopped mutton,
braised in water (taking
(taking minutes.
minutes. ServeServe at at once.
once.
lhese ingredients
these ingredients equal proportions).
in equal proportions). Add Add chopped garlic garlic Aubergire soufr6s i la hongroise. AUBERGnTs
Aubergine soufflés à la hongroise. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES sourrrfns
parsley, and a small pinch of
and parsley, cayenne. Brown the top.
of cayenne. top . AÀ rl HONGROISE -
LA soNcnolsE Proceed as
- Proceed as above, adding 22 tablespoons
above, adding lablespoons
When cooked,
When cooked, pipe pipc a horder of tomato
a border tomalO sauce round round the (3 tablespoons) chopped onion lightly fried
(3 tablespoons) chopped onion lightly fried inin butter,
bUlter, and
and
au bergines .
aubergines. seasoned with
seasoned with paprika.
paprika.
Aubergines in
Aubergines in gravy. AUBERGiNES AU
gravy. AUBERGINEs AU JUs -
JUS - Proceed
Proceed as as Aubergine souff6s au parmesarL
Aubergine soufflés au parmesan. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES AUBERGINEs souFFLEEs

described in the
described recipe given for Aubergines
(he recipe Aubergines d la crème,
à la crime, brut but AU PARMESAN -
AU rARMESAN - As above, adding
As above, adding 2 2 tablespoons
(3 table-
tablespoons (3 table-
substitute truckened veal stock
substitute thickened stock.. spoons) grated Parmesan cheese
spoons) grated Parmesan cheese to lhe fiJJing. to the filling.
Aubergines à la
Aubergines I grecque (hors-d'œuvre)-
la grecque @ors.d'cuwe) - Peel
Peel 2 2 large
latge
aubergines; eut cut them in dice or thick truck square pieces. pieces. Throw
AUDE
AUDE -- This dipartement is
This département is formed
formed of of the low,er part
the lowgr part ofof
Languedoc, a region where good cookery
Languedoc, a region where good cookery has always been has always been
them, aa few
them, few at time, into
at aa time, into aa court-bouillon prepared prepared as as
will be
(which wiJJ found
held inin respect. Among the the specialities
specialities (wh.ich
described in
described in the
the recipe
recipe for Artichokes àd la
for Artichokes Ia grecque
grecque (see (see held respect. Among be found
ARTICHOKE). Bring to aa full full boil, and and cook for for 12 to 15
12 to 15
in their
in their al alphabetical order) is
phabetical order) is the
the well-known
well-known cassoucassoulet'
leI.
There are
There are ttwo kinds in
wo kinds in Aude
Aude -- the
the cassolilet
cassoulet of Castelnaudary
of Castelnaudary
minutes.. Transfer into aa terrine
minutes tenine with the liquor, and and serve
serve as
and the
and the cassoulet
cassoulet of of Carcassonne. Another is
Carcassonne. Another the cassoulet
is the cassoulet
an hors-d'auvre.
an hors-d'œuvre.
Grilled aubergines. AUBERGINES cnnrfss-- Peel Peel thethe auber-
auber- of Toulouse.
of Toulouse.
GriJled AUBERGINEs GRILLÉES
white beans, introduced
and leave to stand in aa dish
dish According to
According to reliable historians, white
reliable historians, beans, introduced
gines, eut cut them
them iotointo thick slices,
slices, and stand in
Dry them, oil, and
with oil, grill
and grill by the
by Arabs, were
the Arahs, cultivated in
were cultivated in Gallia
Gallia Narbonensis
Narbonensis long long
well sprink/ed
well sprinkled wilh with salt.
salt. Dry them, brush with
Arabs taught
before beans were brought from America.
before beans were brought from America. The Arabs taught The
on gentle heat.
on aa genùe heat.
inhabitants to
the inhabitants
the mutton ragoût
prepare aa mutton
to prepare with white
ragofit with white beans
beans
For serving
For serving as as aa vegetable, arrange the
vegetable, arrange the aubergines
aubergines in in aa
with aa few few tablcspoons
tablespoons which isis the
wh.ich the ancestor
ancestor of of the
the present-day
present-day cassoulet. (See
cassoulet. (See
crown shape
crown shape on on aa dish,
dish, and and dabdab with
for further
further details
details ofof trus which the
of which
dish,, of
this dish the
BUTTER). CASSOULET for
CASSOULET
of MaÎ1re
of d'hitel buller
Maitre d'hôtel (see BUTIER).
butter (see
(Turkish cookery) good region is understandably
regioD is understandably proud.) Proud.)
Aubergines Imam Imam BaaldiBaaldi (Turkish cookery) --'Take 'Take good
Aude has
Wines -- Aude
Wines production of
large production
has aa large of lIins
vins ordinaires and
ordinaires and
sound aubergines,
sound aubergines, slil slit them
them along
along their entire length
their entire with-
length with-
d' appellation dd'origine.
vins d'appellation (See LANGUEDOC.)
out peeling,
out peeling, and and scoop
scoop out out some
some of of the pulp. Prepare
the pulp. Prepare aa vins 'origine. (See LANGUEDOC.)
stuffing composed
stuffing composed of of aubergine
aubergine pu/p, pulp, tomatoes,
tomatoes, onions onions and and AUDIGER -- Head Head of of the household to
the housebold to lala comtesse
comtesse de de
with AUDIGER
currants. Fry
currants. Fry trus mixture in
this mixture in oil,
oil, and fill the
and fill aubergines with
the aubergines Soissons, and later to
and later to Colbert. Audiger i5is the
Colbert. Audiger author of
the author of aa
pour in in sufficienl
sufficient
Soissons,
it. Put
il. Put them into an
them ioto an earthenwarc
earthenware dish dish and and pour published in
book published in 1692
1692 of which the
of wh..ich the translate.d
translated tille title isis The
The
book
oil to
oil to coyer
cover them completely. Add
them completely. little thyme
Add aa liltle thyme and and aa bay
bay Wett-brdered Residence and the Art of Governing a Noble-
WeJJ-Ordered Residence and the Art of GOllerning a Noble-
Cook for
leaf. Cook
leaf. for 33 hours
hours on low heat
on low until the
heat until the aubergines
aubergines are are man's House and Other Gentlemen
and Other Gentlemen's Town and and Country
Country
man 's House 's Town
quite soft.
quite soft. Leave
Leave to to cool.
cool. Residences, and and the Duties of
the DUlies of Senior Staff and
Senior Staff Domestics inin
and Domestics
If possi
possible, prepare Residences.
'This ddish
'This should be
ish should veryco
served very
beserved cold.
Id . If ble, prepare General. ln
General. In ilit hehe describes
describes the the composition
composition of of aa lord's
lord's
itit the before itit isis required,
day before
the day required, to allow the
to allow theaubergines
aubergines to to be
be
'household'.
'household'.
wellsaturated in the oil.'
the oil.'
y inin 1660,
weil saturated in Travelling inin Ital Italy 1660, he he came
came across petits pois
across petits pois
Travelling
Imam Baaldi
Imam Baaldi inin Turkish
Turkish means means 'the priest has
'the priest fainted'..
has fainted' growing inin January
January. filled aacraIe
He filled with them
crate with them and and prc-pre-
prepared inin this way
this way growing . He
The legend
The legend goesgoes that when aubergines
that when aubergines prepared iented itit to
sented to the court, who
French court,
the French marvelled at
who marvelled at the sight of
thesight of
were offered to
were offered to aacertain
certain imam (ptiest), he
imam (priest), hewaswasso moved by
somovcd by such an early vegetable. That was how pe tits pois became so
from sheer such an early vegetable. That was how petits pois became so
the fragrant odour
the rragrant odour of of the dish Ihat
thedish that he hefainted
fainted from sheer
fashionable, and and why whyeven today every
even today effort isis made
every effort made ta to
joy. rash.ionable,
gastronomical joy.
gaslronomical produce them them as earlyasaspossible.
asearly Possible.
produce
Aubergine purée
Aubergine (garnish). PURÉE
pur6e (garnish). runrnDD'AUBERGINBs
' AUBERGINES - Peel - Peel
AUK. ALQUE
ALeuE - - Sea ofthe
birds of the Alcidae family.
Alcidae family little (wk
The iiI/le auk
iheaubergines,
the aubergines, cul cutIhemthem ininslices
slices, and leave
, and leave ininaadish with
dishwith AUX. Seabirds . The
salt.Dry
sail. Drythem,
them,and andcookcook ininaacovered casserolewith
covered casserole little
withaalittle measures 38
measures cm.(/6
38cm. (16jnches) whenfully
inches) when grown. ILS
fully groWfl. Itswings
wingsare are
butterand
butter salt.Rub
andsalt. throughaasieve.
Rubthrough sieve. HeatHeat trus pur6e,add
thispurée, add equipped for
equipped forflying, whichcnables
flying, which enables the birdtotoescape
the bird escapefrom from
tablespoons(3(3tablespoons)
22tablespoons tablespoons) butter. butter,and andserve.serve. the pursuitof
thepursuit offishermen hunting il.it.
fishermenhunting
AAfew fewlablespoons
tablespoonsof ofthick
thickBéchamel
Bichamel sauce SAUCE)
(seeSAUCE)
sauce(see Although originatingininArctic
Although originating regions,ititisisfrequently
Arctic regions, frequentlytoto

63
63
 AUNIS AND
AUNIS ANDSAINTONGE
SAINTONGE

be seen ininautumn
be seen autumn and winteron
andwinter onthe
thecoasts
coastsofof England,
England, of which are areused fordistilling
usedfor distilling purposes
purposes (see
ofwhich COGNAC).
(seeCOGNAC).
Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, Thevineyard
vineyardproprietors
proprietors of of this
Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, The this region
regionmake
make aaliqueur
liqueur
P-ortugal, Italy and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on winefor for themselves
themselves andandtheir
their friends,
Portugal, ltaly and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on wine friends, white
white or orsometimes
someiimes
the French ocean coasts. The Icelanders call it alka (aalga) locally ca
the French oceancoasts. The Icelanders cali it alka (aalga) red, locally
red, lied pineau. ItItisismade
calledpineau. made by pouring local
bypouring local brandy
brandy
or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly vahied on the
the must
must du during fermentation, which
or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly valued on ring fermentation, which isis thus
thusarrested,
arrested.
by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they preservingail all the
the fruit.
fruit.
by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they preserving
nest.
nest. AURILLAC -- Town Town inin the
AURILLAC the Auvergne
Auvergne region, which isis the
region, which the
AttNIS AND SAINTONGE -- The The region of Aunis
resion of Aunis has centre of the
centre of production of
theproduction of Cantal
Cantal cheese.
cheese.
AUNIS AND SAINTONGE has
fertile, well-cultivated lands,
fertile, well-cultivated lands, where itops ofof cereals,
where crops cereals, AURIOL -- Name
AURIOL Name forfor mackerel
mackerel in in Marseille:
Marseille.
vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. Animals
vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. AnimaIs AUROCHS -- Wild Wildox,ox, ox
ox of
of the plains. This
raised for food produce meat of excellent quality, including AUROCHS the plains. This animal,
animal, which
which
raised for food produce meat of excellent quality, including in the past used
the past used toto be found inin the
be found
some very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and in the forests of tempera
forests of temperate te
sorne very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and Europe, isis now
now only
only found,
found, and
lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to Europe, and inin very
very small
small numbers,
numbers, in in
lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to Lithuania, inin the
the Carpathians
Carpathians and
gastronomes. Lithuania, and inin the
the Caucasus.
Caucasus.
gastronomes. The meat of aurochs
meat of aurochs isis prepared
prepared as
Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La The ordinaiy beef.
as ordinary beef.
Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La
Tremblade, and Chdteau d'Ol6ron; they are white, or AURORE (A L') principally to
Tremblade, and Château d'Oléron; they are white, or Name
AURORE (À L') -- Name applied applied principally to aa sauce,
sauce, the
the
stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, for which
recipe for which isis given
given inin the
stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, recipe the section
section on on sauces;
sauces; and to ail
and to all
and are considered the best in the world. The pirtuguese the dishes
dishes cooked with this
cooked with this sauce.
and are considered the best in the world. The Portuguese the sauce.
oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. This name
name isis also given to
oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. This also given to aa dish
dish ofof stuffed
stuffed hard-boiled
hard-boiled
Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cl6ron and (see EGGS,
eggs (see EGGS, Aurora
Aurora eggs).
Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cléron and eggs eggs).
La Rochelle, cockles
La Rochelle, which are
cockles which found in
are found in the
the Marennes
Marennes The name
The name also applies to
also applies to aa cheese
cheese made
made in in Normandy.
Normandy.
fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally
fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIE
eusrnaur -- Australian
Australian vineyards
called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. AUSTRALIA. vineyards and
and wines
wines
called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. WINE).
(see WINE).
La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in (see
La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in
France, and among fish found in the region aiJ hake, AUSTRIA. AUTRICHE
AUTRTcHE -- Austrian
Austrian wine
wine and
and cuisine
France, and among fish found in the region are hake, AUSTRIA. (see
cuisine (see
coalfish (U.S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immediatelv WINE, INTERNATIONAL
INTERNATIONAL COOKER
COOKERY).
coalfish (U .S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immedia tely WINE, Y).
after being caught. Fresh
after being caught. Fresh sardines, known as
sardines, known as Royan
Rovan
sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey
sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey
mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch)-. In
mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch). In
the Charente and Sdvre Niortaise and their tributaries there
the Charente and Sèvre Niortaise and their tributaries there
are eels which are delicious stewed or m matelote.
are eels which are delicious stewed or en matelote.
Fruit and vegetables
Fruit and vegetables are particularly good. The garden
are particularly good. The garden
peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at
peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at
Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon.
Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon.
Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oldron
Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oléron
are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red
are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red Papin marmite or
Papin marmite
beans (mogettes') are excellent. or
beans (mogettes) are excellent. autoclave (Conservatoire
autoclave (Conservatoire
_ Orchard and
vegetable garden
Orchard and vegetable garden produce
produce include
include Saintonge
Saintonge des Arts
des et Mdtiers.
Arts et Métiers. Phot.
Phot.
brugnons (nectarines); the
(nectarines);
apples of
brugnons the apples of Saint-porchaire
Saint-Porchaire
JJ Boyer)
Boyer)
(reinettes grrses and clochard)which are exported to England;
(reinettes grises and clochard) which are exported to England;
white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cipes and oyster
white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cèpes and oyster
mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du
mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du
panicot.
panicot.
The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest
The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest
butter, Which can compare with the best Normandy butter,
butter, ~hich can compare with the best Nonnandy butter,
is made in Aunis.
is made in Aunis.
Culinary
Culinary specialities (mussels dà la
Mouclade (mussels
specialities -- Mouclade la crdme);
crème);
mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with
mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with
sausages; razor-Jish sozp (solen); razor-fish stuffed with AUTOCLAVE
sausages; razor-fish soup (solen); razor-fish stuffed with AUTOCLAVE (Pressure
(Pressure cooker)cooker) -- High-pressure
High-pressure steamsteam
breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic
breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic vessel. A
vessel. sort of
A sort boiler, with
ofboiler, with very
very strong
strong walls,
walls, which
which can
can be
be
and parsley and browned on top; scallops auxfiies hirbes;
and parsley and browned on top; scallops aux fines herbes; closed hermetically. ItIt isis provided
c10sed hermetically. provided with safety valve,
with aa safety valve, and
and isis
ragofrt of lavagnons; small cattlefish fried in deep fat; deep-
ragoût of lavagnons; small cut tlefish fried in deep fat; deep- capable of
capable of raising
raising the temperature of
the temperature of the
the water
water above
above
crameou (crabs
fried crameou (crabs that
fried that have shed their
have shed their shellsf; hake soip
shells); hake soup boiling point.
boiling point.
(made with the fish head); chaudrie (fish soup rather liki No
(made with the fish head); chaudrée (fish soup rather Iike No living
living bacteria
bacteria can
can survive
survive the temperature of
the temperature of 120"C.
120°C.
the Breton cotriade); roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. (248'F.)
the Breton co triade) ; roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. (248°F.) inin aa liquid
liquid medium
medium over certain period
over aa certain period of
of time.
time.
Special meat and poultry dishes include chickmfricassde Thus
Special meat and poultry dishes include chickenfricassée Thus thethe autoclave used ininthe
autoclaveisis used thecanning
canningindustry
industrytoto sterilise
sterilise
with
with onions and potatoes;
onions and potatoes; Aunis
Aunis civet, which is
civet, which made of
is made of food products
food contained in
products contained in hermetically
hermetically sealed
sealed cans.
cans. (See
(See
pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; vanous charcuterie; rillettes PRESERVATTON
pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; various charcuterie; rillettes PRESER VA TI ON OF OF FOOD.)
FOOD.)
(potted pork); pktds and terrines; btack and white puddings. This
(potted pork); pâtés and terrines; black and white puddings. This instrument
instrument was was invented
invented by by Denis
Denis Papin,
Papin, and
and thethe
dishes of
Other
Other special
special dishes of this
this region
region include
include roast
roast garlic, original
garlic, original Papin
Papin marmite
marmite has become popular
has become popular once again in
once again in
cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds d Ia
cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds à la the form
the form of thepressure
ofthe pressurecooker,
cooker, which,
which, by bringingfood
bybringing food toto
chardonnette; jonchie (a kind of cream cheese made with aa temperature
chardonnette; jonchée (a kind of cream cheese made with temperature often often reaching 140°C. (284'F.),'makes
reaching 140'C. (284°F.), makes itit
ewe's or goat's milk); vafious fouaces (scones) and coireaux possible
ewe's or goat's milk); variousfouaces (scones) and coireaux
(made of maize flour); la fouie (oil seed cake); gLteau possibletotocook
cookininaavery
veryshort
shorttime disheswhich
timedishes whichwould
wouldtaketake
(made of maize flour); la fouée (oil seed cake); gâteau much
much longer
longer cooked
cooked by theordinary
by the ordinarymethod.
method.
d'Assemblie; Easter gdteau; Taillebourg brioches ; grape
d'Assemblée; Easter gâteau; Taillebourg brioches; grape
jelly; Theresults,
The results,though acceptableininaagood
thoughacceptable goodmany
manycases,
cases,are,
are,
jel/y; Ponsrusks;
Pons
rusks;Frangipane
Frangipane tart.
tart. however, far
however, far from
from being as good
being as good asas those
those obtained
obtained byby the
the
Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most traditional
Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most methods. The
traditional methods. decomposition of
The decomposition ofcertain
certain foods,
foods,

64
64
 AUVERGNE

meat in particular,
meat in particular, is
is taken much further
taken much than in ordinary
further than ordinary
cooking. Furthermore, vitamins
cooking. Furthermore, vitamins can be entirely
can be entirely destroyed.
AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTM
AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTIVE - This This form
form of
intoxication, due to
intoxication, due healthy foods
to healthy ingested in
foods ingested in excessive
excessive
quantity
quantity and subjected to
and subjected to bacterial putrefaction in
bacterial putrefaction in the
intestines, shouJd not
intestines, should not be confused with
be confused alimentary intoxica-
with alimentary
tion due to
tion due ingestion of
to ingestion toxic foods
of toxic foods or foods which
or foods have gone
which have gone
bad.
bad.
AUTRICHIENNE (A
AUTRICHIENNE (À L)
V) -- This
This expression is applied to
is applied
various preparations
various preparations characterised, as in the case of those
those
called d hongroise, by being seasoned with paprika, or
à la hongroise,
Hungarian pepper,
Hungarian pepper, and
and sometimes addition of
sometimes by the addition of onion,
onion,
lightly
lightly fried, of fenne! or sour cream.
of fennel cream.

Pewter sugar
Pewter dredger, ewer
sugar dredger, ewer and porringer from
and porringer from old
old Auvergne
Auvergne

of Limagne produce choice choice dessert fruit fruit (apricots,

(apricots, peaches,
peaches,
apples, pears,
apples, pears, cherries)
cherries) and and also supply the
also supply the important
important
crystallised fruit fruit industry of of Clermont-Ferrand.
Clermont-Ferrand. Auvergne Auvergne
walnuts and chestnuts are
and chestnuts well known.
are weIl known.
In the
In mountainous pasture
the mountainous pasture lands,
lands, oxen oxen are raised which
are raised which
give meat
give meat of of excellent
excellent flavour. Mutton isis greatly
flavour. Mutton greatly valued,
valued,
particularly that
particularly that from from sheep raised in
sheep raised in Vassivières
VassiviEres and and
Chaudesaigues.
Chaudesaigues.
The pork
The pork of of Auvergne isis known known for for the
the delicacy
delicacy of of its
its
This is
flesh. This is made into into many kinds kinds of of charcuterie
cftarcuterie whichwhich can can
found in
be found
be in the
the shops
shops of of Paris and other
Paris and other bigbig cities.
cities.
poultry of
The poultry
The of the region may
the region may not not have
have the quality of
the quality that
of that
raised
raised at at Bresse,
Bresse, but but itit isis nevertheless
nevertheless good, good, as is the
as is game of
the game of
Auvergne, both
Auvergne, ground and
both ground winged.
and winged.
The freshwater
The freshwater fish fish isis excellent.
excellent. Carp, perch, tench,
Carp, perch, pike
tench, pike
and eels
and abound in
eels abound in the rivers and
the rivers lakes, and
and lakes, provide ingre-
and provide ingre-
dients for
dients for succulent
succulent matelotes.
matelotes. The found inin the
trout found
The trout the
Massiac, Aurillac, Murols
Massiac, Aurillac, Murols and Marsenac rivers
and Marsenac delicious
are delicious
rivers are
prepared au
prepared bleu or
au bleu or àd lala meunière.
meuniire. The flesh of
The flesh of Brioude
Brioude
comparable with
salmon isis comparable
salmon with that
that of of Loire
Loire salmon.
salmon.
In the
In the spring, succulent mushrooms,
spring, succulent particularly morels,
mushrooms, particularly morels,
are gathered in
are gathered in the woods and
the woods and forests
forests of of Auvergne.
Auvergne.
specialities -- The
Culinary specialities
Culinary The culinary
culinary specialities
specialities of of this
this
region are
region not very
are not very numerous.
numerous. There There isis the the succulent
succulent potée,potie,
Auvergne which isis made
which made of of salt pork as
salt pork as aa basic ingredient, with
basic ingredient, with cab-
cab-
(French i:x::"; "
( F r e n c h Governmenl
",
o TouriSI ofi
u r is t Office)
c e) bage, turnips, onions,
carrots, turnips,
bage, carrots, onions, leeksleeks and potatoes as
and potatoes as ac-
ac-
companiments,
companiments, and and with garlic as
with garlic local touch.
asaa local touch.The The soupe
soupe
AUVERGNE -- There There isis aa belief
belief that
that the
the cookery
cookery of of this
this au
au farci kind of
farci isis aa kind of rustic pot-au-feu, in
rustic pot-au-feu, which aacabbage
in which cabbage
region
region consists
consists entirely
entirely ofof cabbage
cabbage soup soup or potie, made
or potée, made of of stuffed with
stuffed with sausage
sausage meat meat andand flavoured
flavoured with with chopped
chopped
fresh
fresh and
and salt
salt pork.
pork. garlic and
garlic parsley isis cooked.
and parsiey cooked.
In
In fact,
fact, potée
pofte isis not
not aa specifically
specifically Auvergnat
Auvergnat dish. dish. Each
Each The charcuterie
The charcuterie are are delicious:
delicious: hams; hams; largelargeand and small
small
region of
region of France,
France, including
including the the Ile
Ile dede France,
France, has has its potie.
its potée. country
country sausages;
sausages; black puddings (blood
black puddings (blood sausage);
sausage); greavesgreaves
There
There isis the
the Bourguignonne
Bourguignonne potée, potde, aa wonderful
wonderful dish; dish; thethe (cracklings) ;and
(cracklings); andfricandeau
fricandeau (q.v.), (q.v.),made madeof kindof
ofaa kind pork
of pork
Alsatian
Alsatian potée
po tie which,
which, too,
too, isis succulent,
succulent,.as as isis that
that of
of Cantal;
Cantal; pdti cooked
pâté cooked in thin piece
in aa thin piece ofofsalt pork.
saltpork.
the
the Languedoc
Languedoc potée, potie, which
which isis very very savoury,
savoury, and and the the Among
Among local local specialities
specialities are are tourte viande,aapie
tourte àdlalaviande, pie made
made
Parisian potée, which figures daily
Parisianpalie,whichfigures daily onon the
the bills
bills of
of fare
fare ofof the
the in
inaashallow
shallow dish,dish, lined
lined with puffpastry
with puff pastry and andfilled pork
with pork
filled with
capital's
capital's restaurants.
restaurants. There
There are,are, besides,
besides, many
manyother other potées
poties and
and veal
veal forcemeat;
forcemeat; omeletteomelette brayaude,
brayaude, an omelettemade
anomelette made of of
in
in France,
France, recipes
recipes forfor which
which willwill bebe found
found in in their
their alpha-
alpha- beaten
beatenegg mixedwith
egg mixed with diced potatoes and
diced potatoes diced lelean
and diced an ham ham
betical
betical order,
order, under
under SOUP.
SOUP. Ali All of
of them
them areare made
made of of fresh
freshor or which, beforeititisistumed
which, before turned over over ininthe fryingpan,
the frying pan, isisfilled with
filled with
salt
salt pork
pork asas aa basic
basic element,
element, withwith cabbage,
cabbage, carrots,
carrots, on ions,
onions, grated cheese and
grated cheese thickcream;friands
and thick cream;friands de Saint-Flour, which
deSaint-Flour, which
leeks
leeks and
and potatoes
potatoes completing
completing the the dish.
dish. are
arelike
like those
those found
found ininthe theParisian
Parisianshops shopsselling charcuterie;
sellingcharcuterie;
Auvergne and
Auvergne and Velay
Velay (for
(for these
these two
two charmingly
charmingly picturesque
picturesque legof
leg oflamb
lambbrayaude,
brayaude,which which isisstudded
studdedwith garlic,braised
withgarlic, braised
regions
regions are
are inseparable)
inseparable) are are rural
rural areas
areas offering
offering gastronomes
gastronomes with the
with the usual
usual vegetables
vegetables and aromatics inin white
andaromatics whitewine, wine,
wholesome,
wholesome, unpretentious
unpretentious country
country cooking 'with aastraight-
cooking'with straight- andserved
and served withwith red red beans,
beans, withwith onions,
onions, and andsometimes
sometimes
forward,
forward, honest
honest flavour' (to quote
flavour' (to quote Curnonsky).
Curnonsky). with
with braised
braised cabbage;
cabbage; truffa de , potatoes cooked
truffade,potatoes cookedininaashallowshallow
Besides
Besides thethe cabbage
cabbage soup,
soup, there
there are are peasant
peasant soupssoups likelike pan
panwithwith lean
leanrashers
rashers of ofbacon,
bacon,fiavoured
flavoured with garlic,and
withgarlic, and- -
mourtayrol,
mourtayrol, the great Auvergnat
the great Auvergnat pot-au-feu
pot-au-feu (beef,(beef,ham,ham, added atatthe
added the last minute - - fresh
last minute fresh diceddicedTommeTomme cheese; cheese;
chicken,
chicken, saffron);
saffron); cousinat
cousinat(chestnut
(chestnut soup);
soup);and and the
the cheese
cheese potatoes
potatoeswith with bacon;
bacon;Murat pickled park;
Muratpickled pork; coq coqau vin,aadish
anvin, dish
soup
soup ofof Cantal.
Cantal. for
for which
whichone oneof ofthetheinns
innsatatthe thetop topofofthe Puy-de-D6me isis
thePuy-de-Dôme
Excellent
Excellent vegetabies
vegetables areare grown
grown in in Auvergne.
Auvergne. The The orchards
orchards well
wellknown;
known; the thetripoux
tripouxofofSaint-Flour.
Saint-Flour.

65
65
AUVERGNAT
AUVERGNAT

, .~
. . . . . . . . . . ··.1
-9,,".IJ
. . . "••;, o."
~
'''0
é.
, .... ;
"
,(0,;"
~
BUBGUND]
BURGUNDY
AAVINER
VINER -- French
aa new
new wine
To
To season
French word
wine cask
cask to
season aavat
word meaning

vat also
meaning to
make itit lose
to make
also means
means to
lose the
to season,

to press
season, or
tasteof
the taste
press the
or impregnate
of wood.
wood.
the grapes
grapes as
impregnate

as the
the vat
vatisis
#*rsl*\
s.Am-and'.~~d/.° 6.• ,h.
-Monlpond
Stuffed chicken
Stuffed chicken with
V
'"a';I/sl-,
"9'..-;;

with ! s~"r6o-fi.IJ
,{>,
MI'.
Moulihs
ou 1ns. .lourte
vionde,F"camn.
v'ande, --.,
~, ' .
.
...
Tou,ce adlata
Fricossin, f'ompe
P,pmpe aux oux
being
being filled.
filled.
chestnuts, Game
chestnuts. Game ~,~, ('('p' "Oi~ 0 ~,acconsns. Ioguodes mou.',no,ses.
.. Toquades moulinoises
:i
~W::û,.b~n JA~{;h N'.
!
-"", : Prdlines. Polets
P,ol,nes. Polers do' d'or
BERRY- ~--.Confectione,y. A· to ·coat .lV"--A ~ ~
.! T,uffwes Iro" "e"
s ~ .,oQ" l S - . ., ~
, 9ALLIER r-SOD (', 1 S. ' k chees :
0"(' ~"CIOU e,
Montluno.
,
n
/.''''.'' ~~.
'"
...; .!>1onlllllll·iiult
Rou)adoux
\l
~
0 •
yonnade. Pompe aux
1
1

Tou,ce 0.'0 v,onae ec!.~. • 1 l . • ViireUIlr.s g,al[On'·

î~conf~S!ioner~.~anvtfl]~nde.
dIa vola,lIe. F"coss'~/J .1'vt.;ri" S.\(l\ll' n Il J,op'alI'..'se
Goune,/e. Sucre de Honey.. ~'7-" 0 ! . _~Jourié' ci la
cerises 1 O.' la VO.la;/le
.J -. , ",
1 11/
1
/ . " Ichy:. T,?ut .
Cheese cakë'
~-,..../' ~
, Crayfish, Cepes a la
"
" ~ Rill~lsarley
Il }"
véilln-a.,t,,-
rëme. Ragoût of carrot.
sugar. FrUit pôces
Vegetables and frUit: ~\ "_~,lIord
,sWsalmlS of.mutton
Fruit pdces ~) ,jclWI\fon. if" ( . ThIers
.' .. LYON-
•
J'Rf
JOm <:>, ~
MARCHE, ,
Noix de veau "} ,
cle,monco/se,
~angeliCa pôces ~ Crunchles
Aprocot an

'Clcrmonl-F9-'.J Î
.~ . • ~I" NAIS

~ !Jl1rpièrc
~'J
Pâces and fruit '-., - RO'y"iJt Tripoux
Preserves Chocol;ue. FrUit pâces OJJicl.:'{1ucs
: PU"{-OE-OQM\i> L II' '.
~' ~\'
Tripoux Ham /"""'---_~ Ch,ese ~ ~oob ~~.Ambe.rt 'flntlll'me
la i l ' e S . .N, clrure S,.
Co ou ~/n 1'1~> M!-- ~ ~o -Fourme ",Mo,eli~
. Dore"" ,,,J>. ssoirecheese Leg of lamb
~.... ~ ~\".t-, &~r,~.t:à~,.,tG{,l'Il1liÙI.J-7/.
q h
BI ue c eese v.;e-' c lk \\1 brayoude
1 ChoCOlable
<;) j>

LIMOUSIN <;) w 1 -~~o\~~f-o" Ȏ~r.~'J'~~:''''''J-~_titlJ'rJa~IC

. ,-- ......
~~~ Q',,""i.,~tÎ ~ . '. ~- M;r-;"s
Iliom.es.Monl8gnej<{>

~'B~.
Maur•
Cheese
<#-' (,~..~tÎ
~ 't!-':.-Maréeiia·tt,.
-4 ~o'\;~~Cib",'Ham
Il
Saus!.ge. s
7
) --'L' ANGUE -
rlOU C':
Salmo~ ....
A VOCADO PEAR.
AVOCADO
AAvocado
voeado pear
pear

AvocAr -- The
PEAR. AVOCAT The fruit
fruit ofof the
the avocado
avocado tree,
~,~ ;(.' tree.
Founlorde A ko" ,~ Tripoux, P'ckled pork
J 'V ~"\.
.D"" A-" .ura"'tratP
corne.,!s \~. i DO J.- native ofof tropical
tropical and and sub-tropical
sub-tropical America.
America.
1 CI o-ti'" '.'.
,,,' ~ "'" ~ ~.$ ~
(o~1- g\l J,CANT~L
A! Flour Pu pamles ~
~""" Tarts. Bêt/ses ~
The
The kernel,
kernel, in middle of
in the middle of the
the pulp,
pulp, isis about
about the
the size
size of
of aa
,
, -\"ç~ ,~Vic.s/·Cere ~ ..
and Farces walnut. The
walnut. The fiesh
flesh ofof the
the avocado
avocado is is much
much prizedprized byby the
the
urillac .~/' P~ta~:;,se d /0 _.."~ ~ Americans. It
Americans. It isis thick,
thick, buttery,
buttery, spreads
spreads like like butter,
butter, and
and isis
Tr!poux, Ham. Salaison, ,.' ~ r,,,. ., nutty inin taste.
Goose, Turkey,. Fourme cneese, 1 .CfJaudeSéUgues. Trout
Truffado, Chestnuts, Bourrloles \~. ," Caldagues leg of lamb
The
The avocado
avocado pear pear is
is slightly
slightly acid. It isis eaten
acid. It eaten auau naturel
naturel
(buckwheat pancikes) :q,<" ,;: or seasoned
seasoned with
with Vinaigrette sauce (see
Vinaigrette sauce (see SA UCE) or
SAUCE) or stuffed
stuffed
{ Sto8':à~: r) ,\(vV) \. } PrlnclFl *ortrr: with crab salado
salad.
..!- _.~.1 YENNE o SlFou-rcain FFor
or sorne
some years now chefs have have been
been testing
testing their ingenuity
Gastronomic map of Auvergne
Gastronomie Auvergne
in the
in the creation of new new recipes for this fruit
for this fruit (avocado
(avocado soup,
soup,
creamed
creamed avocados,
avocados, avocados
avocados as as dessert,
dessert, etc.).
etc.). The
The best
best
Among thethe fish dishes, Ussel jellied
fish dishes, is notable,
je/lied eel is notable, and variety of avocado pear pear cornes
comes from Brazi!.
Brazil.
among the game dishes,
the game dishes, Brioude thrush cutlets. The
thrush cutlets. The pasta
products
products of Clermont-Ferrand
Clennont-Ferrand are are excellent. Sweet
Sweet dishes
and confectionery
and confectionery include flagnarde; millards de
fiagnarde.- millards de cerise;
Clermont-Ferrand angelica;
Clermont-Ferrand Thiers crunchies;
angelica; Thiers crunchies; Riom
ichaudi; Murat
échaudé; Murat cornets;
cornets; Saint-Flour bltises
bêtises and farces;
and farces;
Aurillac tart and
Aurillac chestnut tart buckwheat pancakes.
and buckwheat pancakes.
Cheeses of Auvergne include the famous Cantal
Cheeses Cantal cheese;
cheese;
the
the Bleu
Bleu d'Auvergne,
d'Auvergne, thethe small
small Riommois cheeses; goat's Avoeet
milk cheese.
cheese.
Wines -- The vineyards of
Wines of this region {o
<;lo not produce any
red or white wines, but some
great red sorne very good
good table wines.
wines.
wines of Auvergne
The wines Auvergne areare classed
classed among
among the the V.D.Q.S.
They
They areare the
the appellations d'Auvergne and
C6tes d'Auvergne
appellations Côtes and Vins
d'Auvergne, from
from the Gamay
Gamay andand white and and black
black Pinot
grapes. Chanturgue known of
Chanturgue is the best known of the
the local vineyards.
AVOCET_ AvocErro
AVOCET. - genus of
AVOCETIE- A genus of wading
wading birds.
birds. It
It is
is found
found
AUVERGNAT
AUVERGNAT -- Variety of of vine, native
native of
of Auvergne
Auvergne and in
in countries
countries with cold or temperate
cold or temperate climates, particularly
climates, particularly
cultivated in the country around Orl6ans.
cultivated Orléans. It is best known along the coasts
along of Europe
coasts of Europe and America.
America.
because of
because the poet
of the poet Boileau,
Boileau, and does
does indeed
indeed produce
produce wine The flesh
The fiesh ofthe
of the avocet, although
although quite
quite delicate,
delicate, savours
savours of
of
which, as he heady and
he says, is heady and of
of a strong
strong colour. As far consists almost
the food it lives on, which consists almost entirely
entirely of
of fresh
fresh
back as
back as the
the days
days of Louis XIV,
of Louis XIV, inn-keepers
inn-keepers were
were in the
the habit wonns and aquatic
fish, worms aquatic insects.
insects.
of mixing itit with
ofmixing with lighter
lighter and
and less-coloured
less-coloured wines, such as as the
the European avocet
The European avocet is
is about
about the
the size
size ofa
of a pigeon, and
and is
is
lignage, to
lignage, to obtain
obtain pale
pale or ros6
rosé wines,
wines, which
which were
were sold
sold under
under recognisable by its pied plumage. AvocetAvocet shooting
shooting isis prac-
prac-
the name
the name ofof Ermitage,
Ennitage, and which
which are
are now
now known
known under
under dif-
dif- Poitou.
tised in Poitou.
ferent
ferent names.
names. All
AH the
the culinary
culinary methods
methods given for
given for teal
teal (q.v.)
(q.v.) can
can be
be
AVICE applied to avocet.
applied avocet.
French pastry-cook,
AVICE -- French contemporary of
pastry-cook, contemporary of Antonin
Antonin
Carême. In
Car€me. In his
his books,
books, Car6me speaks of
Carême speaks him with great
of him great A y -- Village
AY Village in Champagne,
Champagne, cradle
cradle of of Champagne
Champagne wine
wine
respect and gives
respect and gives him
him first
first place
place among
among the
the pastry-cooks
pastry-cooks of
of (which was
(which was famous even before itit became
even before became aa sparkling
sparkling wine).
wine).
that brilliant
that brilliant epoch.
epoch. Leon X, Charles Quint,
Leon Quint, Henry
Henry VIII VIII and François I1 had
and Frangois had

66
66
 AZYMOUS
AZYMOUS

officers permanently
officers permanently stationed Ay to look
stationed at Ay look after the precious
after the colour,
col acid and
our, acid and slightly sweet
sweet in in taste. It isis used
taste. It for com-
used for com-
vineyard and
aod ensure that the court had regular supplies of
supplies of potes, confectiooery and aa much-prized liqueur.
confectionery and liqueur.
Henri IV williogly
the wine. Henri willingly accepted the title of 'Sire of Ay'. In Provence,
In Italy and
Provence, in Italy and in in Spain,
Spain, as well as
as weil as throughout
whole of
the whole
the Algeria, itit isis used
of Algeria, used for jam, which
for jam, which isis aa very
very
AYAPANA - Plant originating
A Y AP ANA - Plaot originating inin South
South America.
America. Its popular preserve.
popular
leaves, exuding aa pleasant
leaves, exuding aroma, are
pleasaot aroma, are used as infusions,
used as
aperients and soporifics.
AZtror
AZI LZY -- French term
or AZY for reonet,
term for rennet, which is from
is made from
aperieots
certain amount
whey to which aa certain of vinegar is
amount of is added.
added.
The infusion is made in in the way as
the same way as tea, but as
tea, but the
as the
smell of
smell of the is very
ayapana is
the ayapana very strong,
strong, 12 or 13
12 or 13 leaves
leaves are AZYMOUS (Bread). AzyME -- Etymologically,
@read). AZYME the word
Etymologically, the word
enough for aa six-cup teapot. azymous meaos
azymous means unleavened
unleavened..
Ayapana blends
blends perfectly
perfectly with egg yolks, and with cream. The Jews had two ways of unleavened bread;
of making their uoleavened
either by previously grilling the the flour, or by
flour, or by usiog ordinary
using ordinary
AZAROLE -- Fruit of the
Fruit of the Neapolitan
Neapolitan medlar;
medlar; common flour kneaded with warm
fiour wann water and salted, allowing
and salted, l| tea-
allowing li tea-
namb
name ofof a shrub known
koown as Crataegus azarolus
azarolus WhlCh
whrch IS oI lne
rs 01 tne spoons of salt
spoons pe}450
salt pet 450 g. (l lb.)
g. (1 lb.) flour.
flour. The paste was
The paste was rolled
rolled
same species as hawthorn.
species as It isis also
hawthorn . .Tt ipine d'Espagne
also called épine to aa thickness
out to
out thickness of cm. (t
of 1I cm. inch) and
$ inch) placed on
and placed on aa metal
metal
in France.
F.rance. This shrub is similar to aa service tree. sheet. The rolled-out pastry was
sheet. then pricked and
was then and baked
baked in in
The Neapolitan medlar is indigenous to the whole of the aa slow oven.
Mediterranean it isis also
and it
area,, aod
Mediterranean area in the
cultivated in
also cultivatcd the Paris Unleavened bread
Unleavened made from
bread made grilled oatmeal
from grilled flour isis
oatmeal fiour
region.
region. The medlar
medlar berry is oval,
berry is oval, reddish
reddish or yellowish in
or yellowish prepared in in the
the same
same manner.

Azarole

67
67
 BABA -- Cake
BABA Cake mademade of of leavened
leavened dough, dough, mixed
mixed withwith raisins
raisins
and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking.
and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking.
The invention ofthis
The invention of this cake
cake is is said
said to to be King Stanislas
to King
due to
be due Stanislas
Leczinski. Sorne
Leczinski. authors state
Some authors that the
state that gastronome did
royal gastronome
the royal did
not invent
not invent thethe baba
baba we know, but
we know, but found
found aa newnew wayway of
of eating
eating
kugelhopf, which
aa kugelhopf, which had had been
been made made in in Lemberg (Lvov) since
Lemberg (Lvov) since
1609. He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one Large baba
Large baba
1609. He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one mould
mould
plum pudding.
does aa plum
does pudding. (Larousse)
(Larousse)
The kugelhopf,
The kugelhopj, done done inin this
this way,
way, had great success
had aa great at the
success at the
court of
court of Lorraine,
Lorraine, wherewhere it it was
was served
served accompanied
accompanied by by aa
sweetened and
sweetened and spiced
spiced Malaga
Malaga wine. wine. King King Stanislas was an
Stanislas was an
avid reader
avid reader of of the
the Thousand
Thousand and One Nights,
and One Nights, and
and named
named hishis
favourite sweet
favourite after one
sweet after one of of its heroes, Ali
its heroes. Ali Baba.
Baba.
The cake
The cake was introduced in
was introduced in Paris
Paris at at the
the beginning
beginning of of the
the
nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, *ho had seen it
nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, who had seen it
in Lun6ville,
in Lunéville, wherewhere the court ef
the court fjf Poland
Poland was was transferred.
transferred. He He
made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil,
made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil,
and called it
and called it simply
simply 'baba'.
'baba'. Sthorer
Sthorer made made the babas in
the babas in
advance,
advance, moistening
moistening them them with with a a brush dipped in
brush dipped wine just
in wine just
before selling
before selling them.them. Later,
Later, thethe process
process was was to immerse them
to immerse them
in
in rum-flavoured
rum-flavoured syrup. syrup.
In
In the
the 1840s, cake of
1840s, aa cake of similar
similar nature, calledfribourg,,
nature, called jribourg, was
was
made at
made Bordeaux. At
at Bordeaux. At the same time
the same time a a Parisian
Parisian maifte
maître
phtissier, omitting
pâtissier, omitting raisins from
raisins from the the dough,
dough, gavegave the
the cake
cake
another
another shape,
shape, and steeping itit in
and steeping in aa syrup
syrup of his own
of his own creation,
creation,
produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin.
produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin.
Says Lacam: 'He
Says Lacam: gave to
'He gave his friend
to his friend Bourbonneux,
Bourbonneux, with with
whom
whom he he worked
worked at at Chiboust's,
Chiboust's, the the idea
idea of
of using
using the
the same
same
dough
dough bakedbaked in in aa hexagonal
hexagonal mould, mould, and creating aa cake
and creating cake
which
which was ca lied gorenflot,
was called gorenflot, after
after oneone of of the
the heroes
heroes ofofla
la Dame
Dame
de lfontsoreau.'
de Montsoreau.'

Baba

Recipe used by
Recipe used the pastry-cooks
by the pastry-cooks for for babas:
babas:
Sift 500 g.
Sift 500 g. (18 oz., 4]
(18 oz., cups) flour
4t cups) flour into large wooden
into aa large wooden bowl,
bowl,
weil in
make aa well
make middle, put
the middle,
in the put into well l|It teaspoons
this well
into this teaspoons
salt
salt and
and 2020 g.g. G oz., Il cake)
(t oz., yeast which
cake) yeast which has has been
been dissolved
dissolved
in I1dl.
in dl. (6
(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) waffi1 milk.
cup) warm milk. Add
Add 77 whole
whole
eggs, and work
eggs, and work the paste with
the paste with the hands to
the hands to mix weil. Distri-
mix well. Distri-
bute 300 g.
bute 300 (Il oz.,l]
g. (11 oz., I!cups)
cups) butter,
butter, which
which has has been
been softened,
softened,
in small pieces
in small pieces over the paste.
over the pas te. Cover,
Cover, and keep the
and keep the paste
paste in
in
aa wann place until
wann place the yeast
until the yeast has risen to
has risen double its
to double its original
original
size.
size.
Rum babas and mould (Larousse\
Rum babas and mould (Larousse)
Add
Add 25 g. (l(1 o2.,2
25 g. oz., 2tablespoons)
tablespoons) fine fine sugar, and knead
sugar, and knead the
the
paste
pastewell thatititabsorbs
so that
weilso absorbsthe butter.Add
thebutter. 50g.g. (2(2oz.,
Add 50 oz., scant
seant
I~cup)
cup)currants
currantsand 50g.g. (2
and 50 (2oz., seantI~cup)
oz., scant cup)goiden
goldensultanas.
sultanas.

68
68
 BADIAN
BADIAN ANISE
ANISE

~ixweil.Put
Mix well. Putthe
tbepaste
pasteinto
intowell-buttered
well-butteredbaba moulds,filling
babamoulds, filling
uptotoone-third
up one-thirdofoftheir
theirheight.
height.
Bake inin aa hot
1 Bake hot oven allow to
and allow
oyen and to cool before turning
cool before turning the
the
babas out
babas out ofofthe
the moulds.
moulds. Sprinkle with rum
Sprinkle with rum oror kirsch.
kirsch.
Syrup for
Syrq for babas.
babas. snop BABA -- Add
SIROP AÀ BABA Add 2* (scant ]t pint,
dl. (scant
2t dl. pin t,
generous cup)
generous rum to
cup) rum to l|1t litres
litres (2|
(21 pints, 3! pints)
pints, 3* pints) syrup
syrup
tooked to
iooked .to 104"C. (219°F.). A
104°C. (219"F.). small quantity
A small quantity of coriander isis
of coriander
~ometimes used
sometimes used toto flavour
ftavour thethe syrup'
syrup.
1

BABIROUSSA -- This
BABIROUSSA mammal, allied
This mammal, allied to tbe wild
to the wild boar,
boar,
Idiffers from
differs from the latter in
the latter in the
the curious development of
curious development of the
the
'canines. Its
canines. Its general
general appearance
appearance and and squat
squat shape give itit aa
shape give
:certain similarity
certain similarity toto the rhinoceros. Like
the rhinoceros. Like the latter, itit lives
the latter, lives
in the
in the swampy forests of
swampy forests the Malay
of the Arcbipelago, and
Malay Archipelago, and isis
ifairly easily
fairly easily tamed.
tamed. Its
1ts flesh,
ftesh, which
which is prepared in
is prepared in the
the same
same
Iway as
way as that
that of
ofwild boar (q'v.),
wild boar much ptaed.
(q.v.), isis much prized.
BACCHANALES -
,BACCHANALIA. BAccHANALES
BACCHANALIA. - Festivals celebrated in
Festivals celebrated
Ihonour of Bacchus.
honour of Bacchus. These
These festivals began in
festivals began in Egypt,
Egypt, spread
spread
Ito Phoenicia,
to Phoenicia, and
and then
th en to Greece and Italy.
to Greece Italy.
iBACCHANTE
BACCHANTE -- Priestess,
Priestess, votary
votary of
of Bacchus.
Bacchus.

The nyrnph
The Leucothea and
nymph Leucothea and the infagt Bacchus
the infa)JI Bacchus

BACON. LARD rurrlE -- Once

MAIcRE FUMÉ
LARD MAIGRE used to
Once used pork in
mean pork
to mean in
particularly salt
general, particularly
general, pork.
salt pork.
- (bacon) hadhad been killed,'we
been killed,' in Segretain
read in Segretain
'A big hog (bacon) we read
Moine's medieval tale. And in
tale. And in the
the fable of Cockayne
fable of Cockayne wewe
read:
Bacchus
Bacchus on
on aa barrel Si pats si aa non
Si paiS non Coquaigne
Coquaigne
ofwine. Faïence.
Faience. Qui plus ii dort,
Qui gaigne.
dart, plus ii gaigne.
(Larousse)
(Larousse)
De bars,
De bars, de saumons et
de saumons d'aloses
et d'aloses
Sont toutes
Sont toutes les
les maisons encloses;
maisons encloses;
chevron ii sont
Si chevron
Si d'esturgeon;
sont d'esturgeon;
Les couvertures
Les couvertures de bacons
de bacons
Et les
Et les lates sont de
lates sont de saucisses.
saucisses.

In this
In land, the
this land, the land of Cockayne,
land of CockaYne,
The more one
The more one sleeps, more one
the more
sleeps, the would
one wou gain by
Id gain it.
by it.
With bass,
With salmon and
bass, salmon and shad
shad
All the
AIl the houses enclosed;
are enclosed;
houses are
Their rafters
Their rafters are made of
are made of sturgeon;
sturgeon;
roof of
The roof
The of bacon
bacon
BACCHUS
BACCHUS -- Roman Roman god god ofof wiile,
wine' thethe Dionysus
Dionysus of of the
the And the
And theslates aresausages.
slates are sausages.
Greeks.
Greeks. He He was
was born,
born, according
according to to legend,
legend, in in Thebes
Thebes in in BACOMQUE -- Adjective
BACONIQUE Adjectiveonce
once applied France totomeals
applied inin France meals
1
Boeotia.
Boeotia. Jupiter
Jupiter washis
was his father.
father. Semele,
Semele, bis his mother,
mother' was was one
one which consisted
which exclusively of
consistedexclusively pork, fresh
of pork, freshororsalt, prepared
salt, prepared
of
of the
the daugh ters of
daughters of Cadmus
Cadmus and and Hermione.
Hermione. inin various
various ways.
ways.
When
When Semele
Simele lay lay dead
dead (struck
(struck down
down by by the
the fiery
fiery bolts
bolts ofof
her
her lover),
lover), Bacchus,
Bacchus, too, too, would
would have have peri shed had
perished had not
not
Jupiter
Jupiter made
made Vulcan
Vulcan draw draw out out the
the young
young fruit
fruit ofof love from
love from
Semele's
Seinele's body,
body, lying
lying atat his his feet.
feet. Macris,
Macris, the thedaughter
daughterof of
Aristaeus,
Aristaeus, received
received the the child
child into
into her
her arms
arms andandSabazius
Sabazius put put
him
him inin the
the god's
god's thigh
thigh to to complete
complete the the nine
nine months
monthsof of his
his
gestation.
gestation.
- His
His three
threeaunts,
aunts, Inno,
Inno, Agave
Agaveand and Antonoe
Antoncienursed nursed the the Badiananise
Badian anise

child
child inin rus
hisearly
early years,
years, and andcared
cared forfor him
him withwith maternaI
maternal
devotion.
devotion. FromFrom the the hands
handsof of the
theNymphs,
Nymphs,BacchusBacchus passed
passed
into
into those
thoseof ofthe
theMuses,
Muses, and andSilenus.
Silenus.The TheMuses
Musesinitiated
initiated
him
himintointo the
theknowledge
knowledgeof of harmony
harmony and anddance;
dance;Silenus
Silenus
taught
taught himhimviniculture
viniculture and andthethemaking
making of ofwine.
wine.
The
Thenature
natureof ofhis
hisbirth
birth makes
makes Bacchus
Bacchus aahero herorather
ratherthan
than
aagod;
god;butbutheheisisthe
thelove-child
love-child of ofaagod
godandandaamortal,
mortal,and andwe we
cannot
cannotdenydeny rushisdivinity
divinityininthe thepagan
pagan sense
senseof ofthe
theword.
word.He He
isisthe
thelord
lordofofwine,
wine,asasCeresCereswaswasthe thegoddess
goddessof ofcom-bearing
corn-bearing
and BADIANE- -Fruit
AI\ISE.BADIANE
BADIAI\ ANISE.
BADIAN treeofofthe
Fruitofofa atree thesame
same
andagriculture.
agriculture.The Theancients
ancients thought
thought that thatthey
theywere werethe the
sacred name
nametasting anise.ItItisisbetter
tastingofofanise. knownunder
betterknown underthe nameofof
thename
sacredcouple
couplepresiding
presiding over overthethesolid
solidandandthe theliquid,
liquid,wruch
which
sus tain and star
staranise, andisisalso
anise,and calledChinese
alsocalled anise.Itltisisused
Chineseanise. usedasasa a
sustain andanimate
animatelife. life.

6969
 BAGRATION
BAGRATION

carminative in the form

canninative in the fom ofofananinfusion infusion(50
(50 to 60 g. per litre,
to 60 g. per litre,
2.to2l oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in tfie prepara-
2 to 2-!- oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in the prepara-
tion of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that
tion of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that
of green anise, and the essence to which this-fruit owes its
of green anise, and the essence to which this fruit owes its
aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning
aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning
as a result of taking too strong an infusion have been known.
as a result oftaking too strong an infusion have been known.
In India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the
ln India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the
houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mouth, and it is
houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mou th, and it is
also mixed with tea and liqueurs.
also mixed with tea and liqueurs.
Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an
Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an
English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century,ls used in
English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century, is used in
the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian
the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian
anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In some
anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In sorne
northern countries it is used for flavouring bread.
northern countries it is used for flavouring bread.
BAGRATION- Thena
BAGRATION - The name ofaaRussian
me of Russian general
general who fought
whofought
against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagraion
against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagration
soup, Bagration salad (see SOUp, SALAD).
soup, Bagration salad (see SOUP, SALAD).
BAIN-DE-PBD @ootbath)-- Colloquial
BAIN-DE-PIED (Footbath) Colloquial French for an
French for an
excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills
excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills
from the cup
from the into the
cup into the saucer.
saucer.

AARoman
Roman baker,
baker,after pompe.ii fresco
afteraaPompeii fresco

In France,
In France, the the bakers' corporation was
bakers' corporation confraternity, or
wasaaconfraternity, or
religious society,
religious under the
society, under the name
name of of talemeliers.
talemeliers. TheirTheir
statutes can
statutes can be traced back
be traced back to to the
the time
time of of Saint
Saint Louis,
Louis, and and
the oldest
the oldest complete
complete set of regulations
set of regulations in in existence
existence isis that
that
preserved for
preserved for us by Estienne
us by Estienne Boileau
Boileau at at the
the begjnning
beginning of of the
the
Registres des
Registres mitiers (Regjster
des métiers (Register of of Trades),
Trades), collected
collected about
about
1260.
1260.
The first clause
The first clause decrees: 'No-one can
decrees: 'No-one can become
become aa talemelier
talemelier
in the
in the suburbs
suburbs of of Paris who does
Paris who does notnot buy
buy thethe right
right toto trade
trade
from the King'.
the King'.
Bain-marie
Bain-marie
One of
One of their privileges
privileges was was the
the buying
buying and and reselling
reselling ofof pigs
pigs
paylng for
without paying for tbis right, because
this right, because they
they needed
needed pigs to eat
pigs to eat
the bran which was not yet, in in those
those days,
days, separated
separated fromfiom thethe
flour. To
fiour. To become aa mas ter baker,
baker, andand to to have
have the
the right
right to
BAIN-MARIE - In
BAIN-MARIE - master to
In cookery and confectionery,
cookery and this is
confectionery, this is aa
practise hishis trade, aa baker had had to to serve
serve aa four-year appren-
appren-
vessel half-filled
vessel half-filled with
with hot
hot water, in which
water, in and other
sauces and
which sauces
delicate ticeship, and to buy the the master's
master's certificate
certificate from
from the
the king
king or or
delicate dishes
dishes can be kept
can be hot until
kept hot until required.
required.
Cooking in in a
Cooking from
from the king's pantler. From From the time he received this, this, aa right
scrambled
a bain-marie -
bain-marie - Ceriain
Certain dishes, such as
dishes, such
of inspection
of inspection wasestablished.
was established. Bread ofinsufficient
of insufficient weight was
scrambled eggs, eggs, butter sauces, custard
butter sauces, custard creams,
creams, mousses, was
.oily, disintegrate confiscated and and distributed to to the poor, penalties
the poor, penalties for for the
meat and fish
meat and loaves, which
fish loaves, which may
may turn
turn 'oily' oror disintegrate if
if the
they violation
violation of of the law being
being left to the discretion
discretion of the the head
head of of
are cooked
they are cooked on on direct
direct heat,
heat, can
can be cooked in their own
be cooked
utensils, the community.
community.
utensils, which
which areare lowered
lowered into the hot
into the water. In U.S.A. a
hot water.
utensil Appeals
Appeals were were brought before the grand pantler,
the grand pantler, whose
whose
utensil called
called thethe double-boiler used for
double-boiler isis used this purpose.
for this purpose. judgement
In judgement was final. The penalty
final. The penalty was was simple:
simple: aa finefine ofof 66
In France,
France, the the name
name bain-marie
bain-marie isis also
also applied
applied to
to a utensil
utensil
for (pennies) for any violation of the law.
deniers (pennies)
for sterilising
sterilising babies'
babies' bottles.
boules.
1
BAISER
BAISER -- In sorne regions
In some regions of of France, this isis tle
France, this name given
the name given
to
I[to two
two small meringues joined
small meringues joined together
together with
with thick cream or
thick creEur or
other sweet mixture.
other sweet mixture.
BAJET A species of oyster commonly
1 BAJET -- A species of oyster commonly found found on on the
the coast
coast
of
il west Africa.
of west Africa. The shell is
The shell is flat,
fiat, round,
round, and
and thicker
thicker than
than
that of
that of ordinary oysters. The
ordinary oysters. fiesh is
The flesh is edible
edible but but not
not verv
very
delicate.
deJicate. Ancient bakers'
Ancient bakers' arms
arms

BAKERY.
1 BOULANGERIE -- Shop
BAKERY. BoULANGERTe Shop where
where bread
bread bakedbaked by by the
the
baker
baker himself
himselfisis sold.
sold.
1 TheThefirst bakers inin Italy
first bakers Italy were
were those
those the
the Romans
Romans broughtbrought
from Greece, following
from Greece, following theirtheir campaign
campaign againstagainst phiiip,
Philip,
Hannibal's
Hannibal's ally.
ally. Later,
Later,together
togetherwithwiththetheireedilaves,
freed slaves, bakeii
bakers
formed an
formed organisation which
an organisation which enjoyed
enjoyed· considerable
considerable
privileges.
privileges.

70
70
 BAKERY

Philip the Fair,

Philip the Fair, who reforms into
introdueed reforms
who introduced into this
this legis-
legis- 'Grain merchants shall
'Grain merchants shaH not not make their purchases
make their purchases except
except
lation, decreed that
lation, decreed the fines
that the should be
fines should be discretionary
discretionary and and outside the
outside ten-Ieague (40-km.,
the ten-league 25-mile) limit
(40-km., 25-mile) limit around
around Paris.
Paris.
pastry-cooks shall not buy grain
proportionate to
proportionate offence. He
the offence.
to the appointed the
He appointed Provost of
the Provost of Bakers of
Bakers of small loaves and
smaU loaves and pastry-cooks shall not buy grain
Paris to
Paris to be
be the bakers' judge,
the bakers' and, at
judge, and, at the same time,
the same time, con-
con- before l1
before o'clock in
Il o'clock summer and
in summer noon in
and noon in winter;
winter; large-loaf
large-loaf
their privileges.
reduced their
siderably reduced
siderably privileges. The trade of
The trade of bakery
bakery waswas shaU not
bakers shall
bakers not buybuy grain
grain before o'clock, to
before 22 o'clock, to enable
enable thethe
put
to
to be
be free;
free; hehe forbade buying of
the buying
forbade the grain in
of grain the markets
in the markets needs of
needs bourgeois to
the bourgeois
of the to be supplied first.
he supplied Bakers shall
first. Bakers shall put
for resale, and
for resale, permitted private
and permitted persons to
priva te persons buy in
to buy in the
the their distinctive trade-mark
their distinctive on their loaves,
trade-mark on their loaves, and keep scales and keep scales
same way
same way asas wholesale
wholesale merchants.
merchants . and weights in
and weights in their shops, on
their shops, pain of
on pain deprived of
being deprived
of being of
In
In 1366, Charles VV ordered
1366, Charles ordered that the bakers,
that the both in
bakers, both in Paris
Paris licence or
licence even more
or even severe punishment.'
more severe punishment.'
and outside,
and outside, should
should bring
bring their bread to
their bread market on
the market
to the on mar-
mar- They
They werewere likewise forbidden to
likewise forbidden store away
to store unsold bread;
away unsold bread :
ket days.
ket days . They must all
They must ail make bread of
make bread of the same flour
the same Bour and
and they had
they had to dispose of
to dispose of it at a
it at reduced price
a reduced priee if still unsold
if still unsold
content, the
content, the same
same weight,
weight, and sell itit at
and sell at the same price;
the same price; and within three days
within three days of of baking.
baking.
they should
they should make
make two
two sizes of loaf,
sizes of !oaf, oneone which cost 44 dmiers
which cost deniers In
In 1650, sifted flour
1650, sifted began to
fiour began make its
to make appearance, and
its appearance, and
and one
one which
which cost
cost 22 deniers, the price
deniers, the determined by
being determined
priee being by enab!ed aa great
enabled quantity to
great quantity to bebe transported
transported at at aa time, bran
time, bran
and
the weight.
weîgbt. no longer being
no longer being part of the
part of the fiour. From that
flour. From time onwards
that time onwards
the
price of bread in Paris bakers were
bakers were not allowed to to raise pigs. InIn 1666,
1666, inin the reign of
the reign of
In
In 1372,
1372, the the king
king decided
decided that that thethe price of bread Paris not allowed rai se pigs.
should be
should fixed in
be fixed accordanee with the
in accordance the varying price priee of Louis XIV,
Louis XIV, aa curious
curious case case was recorded by
was recorded by Fournier,
Fournier,
grain. When When grain grain cost
cost 8 sous, white bread
sous, white bread or or pain
pain dcde chailli Moliire
Molière et le procis
et le procès du &t pain
pain mollet (Molibre and
mollet (Molière and the bread
the bread
grain.
costing 22 deniers
iosting deniers a loaf loaf should weigh 251 oz. when baked' baked. roll), in
roll), in the Revue Frangaise.
the Revue Française. (A (A man
man called Poquelin, aa
called Poquelin,
The bourgeoas
bourgeois loaf loaf at the same price should weigh weigh 37| 371 oz.oz. relative of
relative of Molière,
Molibre, was involved in
was involved in the
the case, which con-
case, which con-
when baked.baked. Inferior quality qwlity painpain de brode, costing 1I dmier, denier, cerned aa claim
cemed claim that
that brewers'
brewers' yeast yeast had
had caused
caused illness). The
illness). The
when
should weigh 36 36 oz. baked.
baked. verdict declared
verdict declared that that the
the use
use of of brewer's
brewet's yeast yeast inin bread was
bread was
should
beginning of the century Charles VI detrimental to to health, and and was
was therefore forbidden.
therefore forbidden.
At thethe beginning fourteenth century
the fourteenth detrimental
number of of
decreed: By the beginning of of the century the
eighteenth century
the eighteenth the number
decreed:
'That the the bakers
bakers may may not buy or cause cause to be bought either bread markets had
bread had risen
risen to to 15, to which
15, to which between
between 500 and
500 and
grain or flour Bour on on the Paris markets if if the market has not been been bakers came
600 bakers
600 came fromfrom the city and
the city and the outlying suburbs;
the outlying suburbs; aa
open at least one
open one hour. further 1,000
further 1,000 came
came from from Gonesse,
Gonesse, Corbeil Corbeil and and Saint-
Saint-
'That no no baker
baker can can at at the
the same
same time time be be aa miller
miller or or aa Germain-en-Laye. They
Germain-en-Laye. They traded
traded in in the
the main markets, but
main markets, but
measurer of grain. were many
there were
there many bakel"s
bakers who plied their
who plied their trade
trade without hold-
without hold-
'That the bakers may
the bakers may not not buy grain except
buy grain through the
except through ing master
ing master bakers' certificates. These
bakers' certificates. unauthorised bakers
These unauthorised bakers
intermediary lived around
around the Saint-Jean-de-Latran, Saint-
Temple, Saint-Jean-de-Latran,
the Temple, Saint-
intermediary of aa sworn-in sworn-in measurer.' lived
In
In the
the reign of of Charles
Charles VI, VI, the
the rigours of of an
an interminable
interminable Denis, la
Denis, la Châtre
Ch0re and and Quinze-Vingts.
Quinze-Vingts. They They enjoyed
enjoyed the the
war,
war, the the scarcity
scarcity and and higb prices of cereals,
high prices cereals, thethe sale
sale ofof bread
bread same rights in
same rights in the city as
the city as the people from
the people from outside,
outside, except
except
against
against uncertain
uncertain payment and and other
other causes
causes forced
forced manymany of of for the
for master bakers,
the master bakers, who who had all the
had ail privileges conferred
the privileges conferred
the
the bakers
bakers to to give up up their
their trade
trade and and to to destroy
destroy their
their ovens.
ovens. by the
by licence.
the licence.
AA written
written decreedecree was was issued
issued in in 1415
1415 ordering
ordering them them to to re-
re-
build
build the ovens without
the ovens without delay,
delay, on on pain
pain of of banisbment.
banishment.
Further
Further regulations
regulations were were issued
issued from from timetime to to time.
time. In In
1439,
1439, Charles
Charles VII VII introduced
introduced new new measures,
measures, one one being
being
that
that thethe priee
price of of bread should he
bread should be posted
posted up up inin the
the markets.
markets. In In
addition,
addition, 'The 'The bakers
bakers shall shall not
not buybuy grain before noon.'
grain before noon.' TheThe
bourgeois
bourgeois classes classes were were baking
baking their their ownown bread,
bread, and and thisthis
regulation
regulation aimed aimed at at preventing
preventing the the bakers
bakers fromfrom bulkbulk buying,
buying,
and
and maintaining
maintaining their their monopoly.
monoPolY.
There
There were were other
other decrees.
decrees. Ail All guilds,
guilds, including
including the thebakers',
bakers',
were
were to to have
have their
their own own banners
banners and and insignia.
insignia. In In 1569,
1569,aa
curious
curious regulation
regulation laid laid down
down what what bakers
bakers were weretoto wear:
wear:
shirt,
shirt, drawers
drawers withoutwithout trunk trunk hose,hose, aa cap.cap' They
They werewerefor- for-
bidden
bidden to to go go out,
out, except
except on on Sundays
Sundays and and official
official closing
closing
days,
days, forbidden
forbidden 'to 'to gather
gather together',
together', totoset set up
upmonopolies,
monopolies,
oror toto wear
weardaggers,
daggers, swords
swordsor orother
other weapons.
weapons.
The
The seventeenth
seventeentheentury century marks milestone ininthe
marksaa milestone thehis-his-
tory
tory of of the
theParis
Parisbakery
bakery trade.
trade.ThereTherewere wereimprovements
improvements inin
manufacture,
manufacture, permission permission totosell sellfiour
flour without
without bran,bran,aaregu- regu-
lation
lation forbidding
forbidding the theuse useof ofbrewer's
brewer'syeast, yeast,and andthe thenewnew
pain mollet (bread
pain mollet (bread roll)roll)proeess.
Process.
The Chapter of
The Chapter ofthe theCathedral
Cathedral of ofNotre-Dame
Notre-Dame baked baked
bread
breadwhich which was wascalled
called pain chapitre,which
paindedechapitre, whichhad hadaavogue
vogue
before
before ititwas wassuperseded
superseded by bythe thefavourite
favouritebread breadofofQueen Queen
Marie
MariededeMedici: Medici:aasalted salted bread
breadprepared
prepared with withbrewer's
brewer's
yeast
yeastand andcalled
calledpainpainàdlalareinereine.. Then
Thencame camebread
breadknownknownasas
pains Montauron,which
painsàdlalaMontauron, whichwas waskneaded
kneadedwith withmilk.
mllk.Pain
Paindede
Gentillywas
Gentilly wasmade madewith withbutter.
butter.Besides
Besidespaiz mollet,there
pain mollet, therewas was
pain
painblême biAme(pale (palebread)
bread)and andpain citrouille(pumpkin
painà dlalacitrouille (pumpkin
!oaves),
loaves),made madeby bythe bakersofofsmallloaves.
thebakers small loaves.
Richelieu
Richelieudid didaway
awaywith withmanymanyout-of-date
out-of-datemeasures
measuresand and Boulanger-cabaretier (Miniature[rom
Boulanger-cabaretier(Miniature fromthethe Bibliothequedede
Bibliothèque I'Arsenal)
l'Arsenal)
introduced
introducedbold boldreforms,
reforms,legislation
legislationwhich whichisisininforce forcetoto
this
thisday.day.He Helaidlaiddown:
down:
71
 BALACHAN

Bakers at
Bakers work, after
at work, after aa 1ithogra
lithograph of 1830
ph of lg30

Louis XIV
Louis XIV abolished
abolished the jurisdiction of
the jurisdiction of the royal pantler.
the royal
Artisans and
Artisans and suburban
suburban merchants
merchants were were now now on on thethe same
same
footing as
footing as those
those of of the town, and
the town, and newly qualified master
newly qualified master
bakers
bakers were enabled to
were enabled to practise
practise on on the
the same conditions as
same conditions as
their established colleagues
their established colleagues by paying the
by paying the same
same taxes. The
taxes. The
principal
principal aim aim of of this
this concession
concession was was no no doubt
doubt due due to to the
the
fact
fact that after severa]
that aCter years of
several years of great
great poverty
poverty among among the
people,
people, the Treasury was
the Treasury was depleted,
depleted, and and thethe State
State waswas able
to
to increase taxation by
increasetaxation imposing it
by imposing on suburban bakers
it on bakers as Bakers' ovens,
Bakers' ovens, reproduced
reproduced from
from Diderot 's Encyclopédie
Diderct's Encyclopidie
well
weil asas on those in
on those in the city.
the city.
There followed
There additional laws compelling
followed additionallaws compelling each baker to
the oven, replaced wood
of the wood;; then
then came
came gas,
gas, oil
oil heating,
heating, and
bring certain quantity
bring aa certain quantity of of bread
bread to market
market (Abbé(Abb6 Jaubert, and
Dictionnaire electricity.. Today,
electricity Today, pipes
pipes conta.ining
containing aa liquid
liquid which
which isis first
first
Dictionnaire Universel
Universel des des Arts
Arts etet Mdtiers,
Métiers, 1773) 1773) - a great
a great
hardship, heated inin aa coaJ-fired
coal-fired cham
chamberber circulate
circulate round
round thethe oven;
oven; aa
hardship, as as they
they had had to get rid
to get rid of
of all bread after a c"itain
ail the bread certain
hour, system that has the the advantage
advantage of being
being clean
clean,, uniform and and
hour, and
and so so must
must sellseIJ any surplus very cheaply. cheaply.
At economical.
this period,
At this period, the latter part
the latter part of of the eighteenth century, century,
apprenticeship In France, breadmaking
breadmaking is stiJl
still mainly
mainly carried on on in small-
small-
apprenticeship lasted lasted five
five years,
years, followed
followed by by four
four years
scale establishments, producing
scale producing aa few hundred kg. kg. ofbread
of bread
working for
working for thethe bakers' guild. At
bakers' guild. At thethe end of the nine years
the
the apprentice,
apprentice, unless unless he he was
was the
the master
master baker's
baker's son.son, had
had
a day, but
a day, but the trend is
the trend is towards mass production in
towards mass in large
large
factories, with
factories, skilled technical
with skilled technical organisation
organisation and and highly
highly
toto present
present his his chdd'euvre,
chef-d'œuvre, and on paying paying for a certificate,
certificate,
might developed mechanisation.
developed mechanisation .
might at last practise
at last practise as as aa master
master baker.
baker. ThusThus matters
matters con-
con-
involved in
The work involved in transforming
tran sforming flour
flour into
into bread
bread is
tinued until
tinued until the French Revolution,
the French Revolution, but even after
but even after 1789
1789 the
the is
under the entry BREAD.
described under BREAD.
breadmaking industry
breadmaking industry remained
remained underunder strict
strict control. ItIt was was
only in
only 1863 that
in 1863 that itit became
became free.free. BALACHAN -- Seasoning Seasoning much
much used
used in Siam.
Siam. InIn Tonkin
Tonkin it
it
Baker's
Baker's assistant.
assistant. MrrRoN MITRON -- The The termterm comescornes fromfrom the
the is known
is known as as nukemum.
nukemum . It isis mad6
madé ofof small
small shrimps,
shrimps, pounded
pounded
paper head-dress or
paper head-dress or mitre
mitre which
which bakers
bakers worewore at at work.
work. with
with saltsalt into
into thick
thick brine,
brine, which
which is
is dried
dried in
in the
the sun.
sun. Balachan,
Balachan,
Bakery equipment -- This
Bakery equipment changed very
This changed very slowly.
slowly. Kneading
Kneading itit is
is said,
said, stimulates
stimulates the
the appetite
appetite and
and fortifies
fortifies the.stomach.
the.stomach.
was done by
was done by handhand for for many centuries in
many centuries in aa huge
huge wooden
wooden
trough,
trough, longer
longer than than itit was
was wide,
wide, which
which stood
stood on on four legs. It
four legs. It
BALAINE
BALAINE or or BALEINE
BALEINE -- Name
Name ofof aa restaurant-keeper
restaurant-keeper whowho
had aa flat
had cover called
flat cover called thethe tour.
tour . Modern
Modern bakeries
bakeries have have
ran
ran Ie Rocher de
le Rocher Cancale in
de Cancale in rue
rue Montorgueil.
Montorgueil. Grimod
Grimod
mechanibal de la
de la Reynibre,
Reynière, who
who gave
gave parties
parties at
at this
this restaurant,
restaurant, spoke
spoke
mechanical metal metal kneading
kneading machines.
machines.
very highly
very highly of
of him.
him. Car€me
Carême considered
considered himhim to be aa secbnd-
to be second-
The
The ovens
ovens remained
remained as as they
they are shown in
are shown in Diderot's
Diderot's
Encylopidie rate caterer.
rate caterer. (See
(See RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS OF OF BycONE
BYGONE DAYS.)DAYS.)
En cylopédie from from the days of
the days of the Romans until
the Romans until thethe nine-
nine-
teenth century:
teenth century :aa block block of masonry with
ofmasonry with thethe actual
actual baking-
baking- BALANUS
BALANUS -- FruitFruit of of the
the balanire,
balanite, aa shrub
shrub indigenous
indigenous to
to
oven
oven inside, square in
inside, square shape, the
in shape, the inside edges rounded
inside edges rounded off, off, Egypt. It
upper Egypt.
upper It is
is about
about thethe size
size of
of aa hazelnut,
hazelnut, and
and when
when
surmounted
surmounted by dome called
by aa dome called the chapelle. The
the chapelle. The walls
walls were
were pressed yields
pressed an oil
yields an oil used
used inin the
the perfumery
perfumery industry.
industry. When
When
atatleast
least50 50cm.cm. (20 inches) thick
(20inches) thick and
and thethe oven
oven was was heated
heated byby fresh and
fresh and very
very ripe,
ripe, the
the fruit
fruit isis edible
edible and
and known
known as
as the
the desert
desert
wood.
wood. Coal,
Coal, burntburnt in in aa special
special fireplace
fireplace below
below the the opening
opening date; its
date; its flavour
flavour isis enhanced
enhanced ififserved
served along
along with
with other
other foods.
foods.

72
72
 BALLOTTINE
BALLOTTINE

BALAOU na me for
French name
BALAOU -- French small fish,
for aa small similar to
fish, similar to the
the glaze itit with
glaze with cold aspic jelly
cold aspic made from
jelly made from the stock in
the stock which it
in which it
sardine, which
sardine, abounds in
which abounds Martinique. Its
in Martinique. flesh is
Its flesh is delicate
delicate was cJarified and
cooked, clarified
was cooked, reinforced with
and reinforced gelatine, if
with gelatine, if
easily digestible.
and easily
and digestible. nec€ssary.
necessary.
Arrange
Arrange on serving dish
on aa serving dish and garnish with
and garnish with chopped
jelly.
All
Ali methods
methods of ofcooking sardines can
cooking sardines can be applied to
be applied to balaou.
balaou. chopped jelly.

BALLOTTINE
BALLOTTINE-- Galantine Galan tine normally
nonnally servedserved as hot entie;
as aa hot entrée;
itit can
can also
also be served cold.
be served cold. The ballottine isis made
The ballottine made of piece of
of aa piece of
meat, fowl,
meat, game or
fowl, game fish which
or fish which is is boned, stuffed, and
boned, stuffed, and rolled
rolled
into the
into the shape
shape of ofaa bundle.
bundle. The The term ballottine should strictly
term ballottine strictly
apply only
apply only to to meat, boned and
meat, boned rolled, but
and rolled, but not stuffed. It
not stuffed- It is,
is,
however, also
hbwever, also applied
applied to dishes which
to dishes which are actually galantines.
are actually galantines.
Ballottine of
Ballottine lamb ià la
of lamb la boulanglre. BALLOTTINE D'AGNEAU
boulangère. BALLoTTINE D'AGNEAU
AÀ m BOULANGÈRE -- Prepare
LA nourANGiRE Prepare llke like Shoulder of lamb d
of lamb à la
boulangère (see
boulangire (see LAMB).
LAMB).
Ballottine of
Ballottine lamb Aà la
of lamb la bourgeoise. BALLOTTINE o'lcxnlu
bourgeoise. n,trrorrnsn D'AGNEAU A À
BOURGEOISE -- Prepare
LA BouRcnotsn
LA Prepare like Ballottine of of lamb h à la bonne
bonne
femme (see below),
femme replacing the garnish indicated
below), replacing indicated in in that
recipe by
recipe by garnish GARNISHES) which
bourgeoise (see GARNISHES)
garnish dà la bourgeoise which
of lamb in
Ballottine oflamb jellY
in jelly
should be be cooked with the meat. meat. Ballottine
BaJlottine of lamb braised
Ballottine braised ià la bonne femme. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE
D'AGNEAU BRAISfE
D'AGNEAU BRAISÉE A À LA BoNNE
BONNE FEMMSFEMME - Stuffaa boned
- Stuff boned shoulder mutton. BALLOTTINE
Ballottine of mutton.
Ballottine BALLoTTINE DE MouroN -- Proceed
DE MOUTON Proceed as as

of lamblamb with with sausage meat meat mixedmixed with chopped onion
with chopped described for
described Ballottine of
for Ballottine of lamb.
lamb.
which has been lightly fried in butter or lard, and chopped
and chopped Ballottine of
Ballottine of pork,
pork, braised,
braised, witb with varions garnishes. BAL-
various garnishes. n,lr-
parsley.
parsley. LorrINE DE
LOTTINE poRc BRAISÉE
DE PORC BRAIsfE -- Bone Bone aa shoulder
shoulder of pork and
of pork and
Roll the shoulder into into aa ballottine, tie with string,
tie with string, and prepare as
prepare Ballottine of
as Ballottine of lamb.
lamb. WhenWhen the ballottine isis braised,
the ballottine braised,
oven. Put into an drain, remove
drain, remove string, glaze with
string, glaze jelly, and
with jelly, and serve
serve withwith oneone of of
brown in the the oyen. an earthenware cocotte cocotte (deep
dish). Slice
dish). Slice andand fry fry 12 12 medium-sized
medium-sized onions onions in in butter, the garnishes
the normally used
garnishes normally used forfor meat
meat (see GARNISHES).
(see GARNISHES).
Boil down
Boil down the the braising liquor, liquor, remove
remove fat, fat, strain,
strain, and pour
and pour
together with about 100 g. g. (4
(a oz.) lean bacon which has has been
blanched and diced. Moisten
blanched Moisten with 2 dl. (t (* pint, scant cup) dry dry over ballottine.
the ballottine.
over the
white wine wine which has been boiled down aa little.
has been Ldd aa bouquet
little . Add bouquet Ballottine of
Ballottine pork in
of pork jetly. BALLOTTINE
in jeUy. BALLoTTINE DE PoRc ÀA LA
DE PORC tr GELÉE
cnrfn
garni (q.v.) and and enough thickened meat meat stock just just toto coyer
cover Bone aa shoulder
-- Bone shoulder of pork and
of pork prepare as
and prepare Ballottine of
as Ballottine of lamb
lamb
the ballottine. Bring to to the
the boil. jetly. Garnish
in jelly.
in Garnish and and serve
serve as described in
as described in thethe recipe
recipe for for
CoYer
Cover the the cocotte and and put it in aa hot hot oyenoven for for 45 minutes.
45 minutes. Ballottine of
Ballottine of lamb.
larnb.
Add
Add 500 500 g.g. (generous 1I lb.) potato balls balls andand cook
cook at lower
at aa lower Ballottine of
Ballottine of veaJ.
veal. BALLOTTINE
BALLoTTINE DE vEAU -- Take
DE VEAU Take aa boned
boned
heat
heat for 35 35 minutes. Drain Drain the the ballottine,
ballottine, removeremove string,
string, putput shoulder or
shoulder thin sUce
or aa thin slice of of chump
chump end end of of loin (U.S. sirloin
loin (U.S. sirloin
back in the cocotte,
in the cocotte, and and serve.
serve. steak or
steak cutlet), and
or cutlet), proceed as
and proceed described in
as described in the recipe for
the recipe for
Ballottine
Ballottine of of lamb,
lamb, braised,
braised, witbwith varions
various garnishes.
garnishes. BAL- ul- Ballottine of
Ballottine of lamb.
lamb.
LorrINE D'AGNEAU
LOTTINE D'AGNEAU BRAISÉE BRAIsfE -- PreparePrepare the ballottine and
the ballottine and Ballottine of
Ballottine of veal, either hot
veal, either hot oror cold,
cold, cancan be beserved
served with with
braise itit in
braise in aa deep
deep earthenware
earthenware dish, dish, as as described
described in in the
the one of
one of the garnishes recommended
the garnishes recommended for for meat
meat (see (seeGAR-
GAR-
preceding
preceding recipe,recipe, but but without
without addingadding bacon, potatoes or
bacon, potatoes or NTSHES).
NISHES).
onions.
onions. Ballottine of
Ballottine of chicken
chicken with dark sauce,
with dark servedwith
sauce' served withvarious
various
When
When the ballottine isis cooked,
the ballottine cooked, drain,
drain, and and rem ove string.
remove string. garnishes. BALLOTTINE
garnishes. BALLoTTINE DE PouLARDE ÀA BRUN
DE POULARDE snuN - - Bone Boneaa
Arrange
Arrange on on aa serving
serving dish,dish, surround
surround with with aa garnish,
garnish, or or serve
serve medium-sized fowl
medium-sized fowl (see GALANTINE). Stuff
(see GALANTINE). Stuff itit with
with aa
the
the garnish
garnish separately.
separately. Boil Boil down
down the the braising
braising !iquor,liquor, remremoveove quenelle of
quenelle of finely pounded Pork
finely pounded Porkforcemeat
forcemeat(see FORCE-
(see FORCE-
the
the surplus
surplus fat,fat, strain,
strain, and pour itit over
and pour over the the ballottine.
ballottine' MEAT).
MEAT).
Garnishes
Garnishes which which are are suitable
suitable for for this dish (sec
this dish (see GAR-
GAR- Boil the
Boil ballottine inin aacloth
the ballottine which has
cloth which hasbeen previously
been previously
NISHES)
NISHES) are are as follows: bouquetière,
as follows: bouquetiire, bretonne,bretonne, bruxel-bruxel- soakedinin hot
soaked hotwater
water and and wrung wrung out,ouqand and tie tie ititwith
withstring.
string'
loise, chipolata, flamande, Cook inin aa braising
braisingpan pan with justenough
with just enough chickenchicken stock stock toto
lo is e,chipolata, flamande, jardinière,
i ar dinidre, macédoine,
maci do ine, milanaise,
mil anais e, Cook
nivernaise.
nivernaise. The The dishdish may
may be be served
served with
with noodles,
noodles, rice, pilaf,
rice, pilaf, coyer
coverthethe fowl. Bringtotothe
fowl. Bring boil,put
the boil, putononthe lid,and
the!id, andsimmer
simmer
risotto,
risotto, alsoalso with
with fresh
fresh vegetables
vegetables dresseddressed with with butter
butter or or for50
for minutes.
50 minutes.
cream,
cream, braised
braised or or glazed
glazed vegetables,
vegetables, and and potatoes
potatoes prepared
prepared Drain the
Drain ballottineand
theballottine andkeep keepitithothotforfor10l0minu minutestes ininthethe
in
in various
various ways.
ways. oyen,
oven.to toensure
ensurethat thatthe forcemeatsettles
theforcemeat properly.Remove
settlesproperly. Remove
Ballottine of
Ballottine of lamb,
lamb col d, with
col{ with varions
variorc garnisbes.
garnishes. BALLOT-
BALLoT- fat from
fat fromthe thebraising
braising !iquor, strainthrough
liquor, strain through muslin, muslin, and and
TINE
rrNE D'AGNEAU
D'AGNEAU FROIDE FRoIDE - - Wh When en thethe ballottine
ballottine isisquite quitecold,cold, boil
boildown
down by bytwo-thirds.
two-thirds.Blend Blendwithwith22dl. dl.(tftpint,
pint,scant
scantcup) cup)
pour
pour over over itit aa little
little liquid
liquid aspic jelly, and
aspicjelly, andleaveleaveuntiluntilset.set' thickened
thickened veal vealstock,
stock,and andstrain throughaafine
strainthrough finesieve.
sieve.
Arrange
Arrange on on aa serving
serving dish,dish,or on aa decrusted
or on decrusted butteredbuttered Unwrap the
Unwrap ballottine and
theballottine andglazeglazeititininthetheoven,oven,basting
basting
croûton.
cro0ton. Garnish,
Garnish, and and decorate
decorate with chopped jelly'
withchoppedjelly. with
with the
thethickened
thickenedgravy. Arrange on
gravy.Arrange dish,surround
onaadish, surroundwith with
All
All the
the garnishes
garnishes recommended
recommended for forcold
coldmeat meatand and poultry
poultry garnish, and
garnish, andpour pouroveroverititaafew tablespoonsofofthe
fewtablespoons gtavy;
thegravy;
are
are suitable
suitable forforcoldcold ballottine.
ballottine. serve
servethe restofofthe
therest gravyininaasauce
thegravy boat.
sauceboat.
BaUottine
Ballottine of of lamb
lamb inin jelly.
ielly. BALLOTTINE
BALLoTTINE D'AGNEAU o'acNnluÀALA L'e' The followinggarnishes
Thefollowing garnishesare arerecommended:
recommended:noodles, noodles,
crrfB - - Stuff
GELÉE Stuffaabonedboned and andflattened
flattened shoulder
shoulder of oflamb
lambwith with mushroomsororchipolata,
celery, mushrooms
celery, chipolata,bouquetière,
bouquetidre,DemidofJ: Demidoff,
Galantine
Galantine forcemeat
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEA
FORCEMEAT) mixed n mixedwith withaa espagnole,
espagnole,Godard,
Godard, milanaise,
milanaise,niçoise, nigoise,orientale, pirigour-
orientale, périgour-
salpicon (q.v.) composed
salpicon(q.v.) composed of ofpickled
pickled tongue,
tongue, ham hamand andtruffies.
truffies. dine, portugaise,Rossini,
piimontaise,portugaise,
dine,piémontaise, Rossini,and andwith withailallotherother
Roll,
no[, wrap
wrap ininaapiecepieceof ofmuslin,
muslin, and andtie tiewith
withstring.
string.CookCookinin garnishes
garnishes recommended
recommendedfor chickenororfowl
forchicken servedininsmall
fowlserved small
jellystock
jelly stock asasdescribed
described ininthe therecipe
recipeforforgalantine
galantine(q.v.).(q.v.). pieces withaadark
pieceswith darksauce.
sauce.
Drain
Drain the theballottine,
ballottine,unwrap,unwrap,and andtietieititup upagain
againtightly
tightlyinin Ballottine
Ballottfureofofchicken,
chicken,witb liglrtsauce,
withlight sauce,served
servedwith withvarions
various
aacloth,
cloth,securing
securingeach eachend endwithwithstring
stringand andtyingtyingititalsoalsoinin garnisbes.
garnishes.BALLOTTINE
BALLoTTINEDE PouLARDs ÀABLANC
DEPOULARDE srlNc- -PreparePrepareand and
the cook
cookthetheballottine
ballottineasasdescribeddescribedabove, above,and andglazeglazeititlightly.
ligbtly.
themiddle.
middle.Cool Coolunderunderaapress.press.Unwrap
Unwrapthe theballottine
ballottineand and

7373
 BALM
BALM

Arrange on a fried croffton, or on a foundation of rice or BANANA. BANANE- -Fruit Fruitofofthe thebanana
bananatree, grows
Arrange on a fried croû ton, or on a foundation of rice or BAN ANA. BANANE tree,whichwhichgrows
semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve wrth Vetouti
semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve with Velouté inintropical
tropicalregions.
regions.About
About 30 30species
speciesofit of itare known.
areknown.
or SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which Hindureligion
or Suprême sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which lnInthe theHindu religion there
thereisisaalegendlegendininwhich whichthe banana
thebanana
the ballottine was cooked. wasthe fruitforbidden
thefruit forbiddentotoAdam Adamand andEve Eveininthe theterrestrial
the ballottine was cooked. was terrestrial
Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, paradise,which, which,according
according totothe thelegend,
legend, was
Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, paradise, wason onthe theisland
island
ice, Albufdrq anyersoise, banquière,
rice, Albuféra, anversoise, banquiire,Chi
Chivry, demi-deuil,
vry, demi-deuil, ofofCeylon,
Ceylon,where where the theparents
parents of ofthethehuman
humanrace racecovered
covered
ivoire, princesse, rigence, Toulouse, and, generally, with their nakedness
nakednesswith with banana
banana leaves.leaves. ThisThisexplains
explainsthe names
ivoire, princesse, régence, Toulouse, and, generally, with their thenames
garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light of Adam's
Adam's fig-tree andParadise
garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light of fig-treeand Paradise banana, banana, whichwhichthe theIndians
Indians
sauce. havegiven given tototwo twospecies
speciesof of banana
bananatree.
sauce. have tree.
Small ballottines of chicken. pETrrEs BALrorrrNEs DE The dietetic qualities of the thebanana
banana are undisputed.ItIt pro-
are undisputed. pro-
Small ballottines of chicken. PETITES BALLOTTINES DE .The dietetic qualities of
voLAILLE Ballottines made of chickens' legs, when
VOLAILLE - - Ballottines made of chickens' legs, when thethe vides 100
vides calories per
100calories per100 (250 calories
100 g.g.(250 calories per per100100g.g.in ini ts
itsddried
ried
wings and breast are used for some other dish. form) and and aasufficient quantity of
sufficient quantity all the
ofail mineral salts
the mineraI
wings and breast are used for sorne other dish. form) saltsneces-
neces-
The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first saryfor for the
the body's
body's maintenance.
maintenance.
The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first sary
recipe for Ballottine of chicken They are braised d brun or
recipe for Ballottine of chicken. They are braised à brun or ItIt isis rich
rich inin starch, which isis transformed
starch, which transformedinto into extremely
extremely
d blanc, and garnished and served as described in the direc- energising sugar sugar when
when the fruit isis fully
the fruit ripe. ItIt also
fully ripe. tains aI
contains
à blanc, and garni shed and served as described in the direc- energising alsocon
tions for Ballottine of chicken.
chicken. wide variety of vitamins: A,
variety ofvitamins: A, B, B,BI' Br, Bz,
BroBrz,
tions for Ballottine of wide B lz , DD andand E. E.
Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, When ripe, ripe, the
the banana
banana isis full full of
Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, When of nourishing
nourishing constituents.
constituents.
in which case it served under the name of Jambonneaux
in which case it isis served under the name of Jambonneaux ItIt con
contains
tains 74 74pr
per cent waterand
cent water and22 22 perper cent carbohydrates.
cent carbohydrates.
de volaille. These carbohydrates
carbohydrates are
de volaille. These only assimilable
are only assimilable when when the fruit isis
the fruit
Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) f. nanorrwr fully ripe; ripe; in in green bananas itit remains
green bananas remains aa non-assimilable
Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) J. BALLOTTINE fully non-assimilable
DE POULARDE A r.l Cnr Fr (rN cruuo-rnon) _ prepare and starch.
DE POULARDE À LA GELÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) - Prepare and starch.
cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in Bananas destined destined for for export
export are are harvested
cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in Bananas harvested when when they they are are
one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, still green,
green, at at aa stage when their
stage when their fiesh
flesh isis white
one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, still white and without
and without
Niva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). flavour. They They havehave toto be transported in
Néva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). fiavour. be transported in conditions
conditions ofa ofa steady
steady
Ballottine of chicken in jely II. slrrorrrNE DE pouI-er A temperature of of ]2.5° to l3 l3'c.
BaUottine of cbicken in jeUy II. BALLOTTINE DE POULET À temperature 12.5" to 0
(54.5. to
e. (54·5° to 55·5°F.)
55.5"F.) in in ships
ships
L.l csriE Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in
LA GELÈE -- Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in specially equipped
specially equipped for for this
this purpose.
purpose. They They are are shipped
shipped in in
preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, complete stems
preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, complete stems of from 15
of from 15 toto 40 kg. (33
40 kg. (33 to
to 88 lb.) wrapped
88 lb.) wrapped
which has been strained and the fat removed in special
special paperpaper or or polythene
polythene bags, or in 'hands' of
in 'hands'
which has been strained and the fat removed. in bags, or from 8g
of from
Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate to 12 bananas packed
12 bananas packed in in cartons
cartons or or crates.
crates.
Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate to
with jelly made from the stock in which it was cooked. On arrivaI,
arrival, thethe bananas (which should
with jelly madefrom the stock inwhich it was cooked. On bananas (which should be be at at the
the same same
Ballottine of glazed
Ballottine of glazed chicken (chaud-froid). BALLoTTTNE DE
chicken (chaud-froid). BALLOTTINE DE stage of
stage of maturity
maturity as they were
as they were at at the port of
the port of embarkation)
embarkation)
pouI.Er cracfn (rN crnuo-FRorD) Cook the
POULET GLACÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) -- Cook ballottine as
the ballottine as are ripened
are ripened either either in in converted
converted cellars cellars heated
heated to to aa tem-tem-
described in preceding recipes, chill, and prepare as in the perature of of from
from 16·5° to 20°e. (61.5' to
described in preceding recipes, chili, and prepare as in the perature 16.5' to 20"C. (61,5° to 68°F.)
68'F.) with with aa
recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEI.{). humidity value value of of 90 per cent
cent to 95
recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEN). humidity 90 per 95 per cent,cent, or in in specially
specially
Ballottines of various poultry. BALLorrrN.Es DE voLArLLEs equipped depôts. ripening period is carried out according
dep6ts. The ripening
Ballottines of various poultry. BALLOTTINES DE VOLAILLES equipped aciording
DIvERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guinea- to requirements,
requirements, and varies from 3 to 8 days.
DIVERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guinea- to
fowl
fowl as as described
described inin the
the recipe for Ballottine
recipe for Ballottine of chicken.
of chicken. When bananas
When bananas are are to be eaten raw, preference preference should be
Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed
Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed given to
given those which
to those which are aa uniform golden-yellow colour,
uniform golden-yellow
with
with one-third of
one-third of its its volume
volume of of foie gras, and
foie gras, and chopped
chopped lightly spotted.
or lightly
or spotted.
trufles.
truffles. There are
There some two
are sorne hundred species of bananas
two hundred bananas in in cul-
These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes tivation
These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes tivation throughout
throughout the world. Of these, three varieties are
recommended for chicken. commonly
recommended for chicken. commonly found found on the French French market: market: sinensis
sinensis and and poyo,
BALM.
BALM. BAUME BAUME -- Name applied to
Name applied to variousvarious aromatic
aromatic plants
plants similar to
similar each other, both
to each both slightly curved, with fragrant,
of tasty
tasty flesh, and gros-Michel,larger.
the niint
of the mint type.
type. (and
fiesh, and gros-Michel, larger, straighter, straighter, less less fragile
fragile
,to (and therefore
therefore more resistant to handling) handling) but but less fragrant.
fragrant.
BAMBOCHER
BAMBOCHER -- Slang term in
Slang term in French
French meaning live it
meaning 'to live it
up'. The word comes from the nickname of a Dutch painter,
up'. The word cornes from the nickname of a Dutch pain ter,
Pierre van
Pierre van Laer, called 'Le
Laer, called 'Le Bamboche',
Bamboche', who specialised in
who specialised in
depicting
depicting rustic sceness (barnbo
rustic scene chades').
(bambochades).
BAMBOO.
BAMBOO. BAMBoU-
BAMBOU - Arborescent reeds (a
Arborescent reeds genus of
(a genus ofwoody-
woody-
stemmed grasses) grown
stemmed grown in
grasses)
in tropical coun tries. Its
tropical countries. Its young
young
shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned,
shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned,
as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten
as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten
raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc.
raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc.
pickle
. The. Japanese pickle tender
The Japanese tender bamboo shootsin
bamboo shoots sakévinegar
in sak6 vinegar
(sak6 is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, ba-m-
(saké is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, bam-
boo stems are pickled in palm vinegar.
boo stems are pickled in palm vinegar.
Th9 nlth of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and
The pith of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and
a kind of spirit oozes from it. The fruit of the bamboo is the
a kind of spirit oozes from il. The fruit of the bamboo is the
size of a pear, and is formed of a great number of edible seeds
size ofa pear, and is formed ofa great number of edible seeds
resembling ripe ears of maizn or Indian corn. young bam_
resembling ripe ears of maize or Indian corn. Young bam-
boo shoots
boo shootsare coveredwith
arecovered withfine
finebut
butsharp
sharphairs,
hairs,which
whichmust
must
be removed before cooking,
be removed before otherwise perforation
cooking, otherwise perforation of of the
the
intestines may result.
intestines may result.
BAMBOO
BAMBOO MUSHROOM.
MUSHROOM. cnauprcNoN
CHAMPIGNON DE DE ralrsou
BAMBOU -- A A
mushroom
mushroommuch valuedininChinese
muchvalued Chinesecuisine.It avaiJableinin
cuisine. Itisisavailable
Europe only in its dried form. Ripening placefor
Ripeningplace
Europe only in its dried form. bananas(Pomona')
forbananas (Pomona)

74
74
 BANANA
BANANA

Sinensis andpoyo
Sinensis and come from
poyo come Martinique, Guadeloupe,
from Martinique, Guadeloupe, the the Cut the
Cut the banana halves into
banana halves slices, and
into slices, and steep them in
steep them in sugar
sugar
Ivory
Ivory Coast and the
Coast and Canaries. The
the Canaries. The gros-Michel grown in
gros-Michel isis grown in rum for
and rum
and for 30 Partly fill
minutes. Partly
30 minutes. fill the banana skins
the banana skins with
with
(q.v.)
Central America, South
Central America, America and
South America Cameroun. The
and Cameroun. The latter
latter Dessert (see RICE)
rice (see
Dessert rice RICE) mixedmlxed with salpicon (q.v.) of
with aa salpicon of crys-
crys-
isis gradually replaced by poyo.
being replacedby
gradually being poyo. tallised fruit,
tallised fruit, and flavoured with
and flavoured with rum.
rum. Arrange
Arrange the the banana
banana
In France, the
In France, gros-Michel of
the gros-Michel Cameroun is
of Cameroun is marketed
marketed slices on
slices top, put
on top, the fruit
put the fruit on baking tray,
on aa baking sprinkle with
tray, sprinkle with
principally in
principally in the east of
the east the country,
of the poyo of
thepoyo
country, the the Ivory
of the Ivory melted butter and
melted butter and finely ground macaroons'
finely ground macaroons, and brown in and brown in
and Canary
Coast and
Coast bananas in
Canary bananas in the south, Antilles
the south, Antilles bananas
bananas aa hot
hot oven.
oyen.
in the Paris
in the region and
Paris region and the
the west.
west. Serve with
Serve rum-flavoured Apricot
with rum-flavoured Apricot sauce
(se SAUCE).
sauce (see SAUCE).
croOtes ià la
Banana crottes
Banana BauviUiers. cRoOrEs
la Bauvilliers. AUx BANANES A
CROÛTES AUX BANANES À
LA BAUVILLIERS -- Cut
LA BALTVILLIERS Cut aa stale brioche into
stale brioche into a dozen rectan-
a dozen rectan-
gular slices 6
gular slices cm. (2|inches)
6 cm. (2+ inches) long long andand aa little wider than
little wider than aa
banana. Put the slices on a baking tray, sprinkle with fine
banatra. Put the slices on a baking tray, sprinkle with fine
sugar, glaze in
and $aze
sugar, ara.d in the
the oven.
oyen.
Curved banana
Curved banaoa from
from the
the
Peel 6
Peel bananas and halve lengthways. Put them on aa
6 bananas and halve lengthways. Fut them on
Canariesand
Canaries and straight
straight banana
banana
from America
from America baking tray,
buttered baking
buttered sprinkle with
tray, sprinkle with fine sugar and
fine sugar cook in
and cook in
the oven for 5 minutes. Arrange the bananas,
the OYen for 5 minutes. Arrange the bananas, alternating alternating
with slices of
with slices brioche, in
of brioche, in aa circle in aa fireproof
circle in dish. Fill
fireproof dish' FiJI the
the
centre with
centre cooked with
semolina cooked
with semolina with milk,
milk, sugar
sugar andand vanilla,
vaniJla,
and bound with
and bound egg yolks
with egg (see SEMOLINA.
yolks (see English
SEMOLINA. English semo- serno-
pudding). Mix
Lina pudding).
lina Mix with
with aa salpicon (q.v.) of
salpicon (q.v.) of preserved
preserved fruitfruit
steeped in
steeped in maraschino.
maraschino.
Sprinkle the
Sprinkle the whole dish with
whole dish finely crushed
with finely macaroons
crushed macaroons
Bananas are are sometimes dried in their country of origin andmelted
and and brown
butter, and
melted butter, brown in in thethe OYen. Before serving,
oven. Before serving,
and exported in this form. calorific value then rises to
Their calorific
fonn. Their surround with
surround Apricot sauce
with Apricot (see SAUCE)
sauce (see flavoured with
SAUCE) flavoured with
about 285
about calories per 100
285 calories twice that of
100 g. -- twice ofmeat. The banana
meat. The banana maraschino.
maraschino.
reduced to 'flour'.
can also be reduced form in a number
'flour'. It takes this forrn cro0tes àil la
Banana crofites
Banana la maltaise. cno0rus AUX
maltaise. CROÛTES lux BANANES
saNA,NEs À A LAI-l
preparations, usually flavoured with cocoa
of industrial preparations, cocoa.. MALTAIsE -- Prepare
MALTAISE Prepare as described in
as described in the
the recipe for Banana
reclpe for Banana
bananas may consist of as
stem of bananas
A stem as many
many as as 200,
200, and crofites àd la
croûtes la Bauvilliers, semolina by
replacing semolina
Bauvilliers, replacing thick French
by thick French
weighs from 35
weighs 35 to 40 kg. (77 to 88 lb.)..
88 lb.) pastry
pastry cream cream (see CREAMS),
(see CREA flavoured with
MS), flavoured grated orange
with grated orange
Baked bananas. BANANES BANANDs AU FouR -- Bake the bananas
AU FOUR bananas in peel.
peel.
the oyen wlthout peeling them.
oven without them. Serve with melted melted butter and and Decorate the
Decorate of bananas
circle of
the circle bananas with with candied
candied orange peel
orange peel
fine sugar. Serve with aa red fruit fruit jelly, if desired
desired.. and almonds.
halved almonds.
and halved
Ba nanas Beauharnais.
Bananas Beauharnais. BANANES BEAUHARNAIS - Put
BANANDs BEAUHARNAJS - I\rt 66 flambe. BANANES
Bananas flambé.
Bananas rhMsfns -- Peel
BANANEs FLAMBÉES Peel bananas
bananas and and
peeled
peeled bananas
bananas into into aa buttered fireproof dish.
buttered fireproof with
Dust with
dish. Dust cook them
cook them in in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup. Drain, and
syrup. Drain, put into
and put into
fine sugar,
fine with 44 tablespoons
sprinkle with
sugar, sprinkle tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons)
tablespoons) aa timbale
timbale or or aa shallow ovenproof dish.
shallow ovenproof with liqueur,
Sprinkle with
dish. Sprinkle liqueur,
white rum, and
white rum, and heat on the
heat on the stove. Cook in
stove. Cook in the oven for
the oyen for 55 and set
and alight when
set alight when serving.
serving.
minutes. Pour thick cream over over them,
them, sprinkJe with crushed
sprinkle with crushed Banana flan
Banana flan or tart ài lala crème.
or tart crdme. FLAN FLAN DE BANANEs ÀA LA
DE BANANES LA
macaroons
macaroons and little melted
and aa httle butter, and
melted butter, and glaze
glaze inin aa hot
hot cniuB -- Peel
CRÈME Peel bananas
bananas and and halve
halve them lengthways. Put
them lengthways. Put them
them
oyen
oven.. Serve
Serve in in the
the same
same dish.
dish. in aa buttered
in buttered dish, dish, sprinkle
sprinkle withwith fine
fine sugar,
sugar, and cook in
and cook in the
the
flan made
in aa flan made of of short pastry, and
short pastry, fill
and fill
Bananas
Bananas Bourdaloue.
Bourdaloue. BANANES BoURDALoUE - Peel
BANANtrs BOURDALOUE - and
Peel and oyen. Arrange them
oven. Arrange them in
pastry cream (see CREAMS).
CREAMS). Sprinkle with
Sprinkle with
poach the bananas in
poach in syrup,
syrup, and proceed as
and proceed described in
as described in the
the with French
with French pastry cream (see
recipe
recipe forfor Apricots
Apricots bourdaloue
bourdaloue (see APRICOTS)..
(see APRICOTS) crushed macaroons, and
crushed macaroons, brown in
and brown in the oven.
the oyen.
(garnish for for meat).
meat). BANANES FRITES- - Peel
Peel
Ba nanas in
Bananas in butter.
butter. BANt\NES
BANANEs AU AU BEURRE -
BEURRE - PeelPeel bananas,
bananas, Fried bananas
Fried bananas (garnish
lengthways. Marinate
BANANES FRITES
Marinate for for 30 minutes
30 minutes
put them
put them in in aa buttered and sprinkle
dish, and
fireproof dish,
buttered fireproof sprinkle withwith and halve
and halve the the bananas
bananas lengthways.
sugar. Cook
sugar. slowly in
Cook slowly in the
the oyen (180'C., 350°F.,
oven (180°C., 350oF., Gas Mark
Gas Mark inin oil,
oil, lemon juice, salt
lemon juice, pepper. Dip
and pepper.
salt and Dip the
the halves light
halves ininaalight
4)
4) for
for 20
20 toto 30
30 minutes.
minutes. batter and
batter fry, wh
and fry, when required.
en required.
Banana compote -- See As aadessert
dessert or orsweet course, these
sweet course, these areare the
the same
same as Banana
asBanana
Banana compote See COMPOTE.
COMPOTE. As
Bananas
Bananas Condé.Cond6. BANANES
BANANEs CONDÉcoxo6 - Peel -
Peel and poach the
and poach the fritters (see
fritters (see below).
below).
bananas
bananas and and proceed
proceed as as described
described in in the recipefor
the recipe for Apricots
Apricots
Condé
Condi (see(see APRICOT).
APRICOT).

Bananas la créole
Bananasà ilacr6ole

Bananas àI lalacréole.
Bananas cr6ole.BANANES cnarlNfns ÀALA
BANANEsGRATINÉES u CRÉOLE
cnforp- -
Choose
Choose finn
firm bananas
bananas and cutthem
andcut them lengthwise.
lengthwise. Remove
Remove
the fruitand
thefruit andsoak
soakthe
theskins
skinsfor minutesininboiling
for22minutes boilingwater.
water.
Drain,
Drain,andanddip
dipthem
theminincold
coldwater
watertotocool.
cool. Fried bananas with cream

7575
 BANDOL

(669426
Ashurbanipal (669-626
Ashurbanipal
n.c.)feasting
B.C.) withhis
feastingwith his
qtet(British
queen (British Museum)
Mweum'l

Banaoa fritters. BEIGNETS

Banana fritters. BETcNETs DE DE BANANES Halve the
BANANEs -- Halve the bananas
bananas people of
people of the
thesame literary or
sameliterary orartistic
artistic tas tes, or
tastes, orreligious
religious or or
lengthways and
lengthways and steep them for
steep them for an in rum
hour in
an hour rum or or kirsch
kirsch and
and political ideas,
political ideas, or or of of the
the samesame social
social status,
status, profession,
profession, or or
sugar. When required,
sugar. When required, dip dip them
them in in batter
batter andand deep-fry
deep-fry in in ethnic origin, and
ethnic origin, and so soon.on.
sizzling fat. Drain,
sizding fat. Drain, dry,dry, and
and sprinkle with fine
sprinkle with fine sugar before
sugar before The mystic
The mystic character
character of of aa banquet
banquet isis to to be foundininpre-
befound pre-
serving.
serving. history. In
history. In the
the origins
origins of allhuman
of ail human activity
activity there there was wasmagic,
magic,
Batter. Make aa smooth
Batter. Make smooth thick thick paste with 33 tablespoons
paste with tablespoons the need
the need of of man
man to to make
make the the mysterious
mysterious forces forces of of nature
nature
(scant t* cup) flour and
cup) flour wann water.
and warm water. AddAdd aa tablespoon
tablespoon oliveolive favourable to
favourable to him.
him. On On thethe walls
walls of ofthe Frires caves
(scant the Trois
Trois Frères cavesin in
oil, and
oil, and leave
leave to to stand
stand forfor 22 to
to 33 hours,
hours, stirring
stirring from
from time
time to to Aribge, there
Ariège, primitive painting
there isis aa primitive painting of of aa sorcerer
sorcerer in in cere-
cere-
time.
time. monial robes,
monial performing aa sacred
robes, performing sacred dance
dance in in the
the middle
middle of of
Just before
Just before using, fold 22 stiffly
using, fold stiffy whisked
whisked egg egg whites into the
whites into the an
an immense
immense herd herd of of cattle;
cattlb; apparently
apparently sorne some kind kind of of incanta-
incanta-
batter.
batter. tion to
tion to make
make the tribe's hunting
the tribe's hunting successful.
successful.
Banana mousse
Banana mous$e glacéglac6 -- See
See lCRICE CREAMS
CREAMS AND AND ICES, ICES, When aa slaughtered
When slaughtered animal animal layon lay on the ground, itit was
the ground, was
Fruit mousse.
Fruit mousse. divided into
divided into two two parts,
parts, the the first for the
first for the benevolent
benevolent deities, deities,
Banana soufflé.
Banana sourrrf AUX
sorff6. SOUFFLÉ AUx BANANES
BANANES- - Blend aa tablespoon other for
the other
the for thethe tribe,
tribe, clanclan or or family.
family. In In this
this wayway men men got got
flour
flour and small pinch
and aa small pinch of of salt into aa smooth paste with wittr,l1 dl.
dl. used
used to to meeting
meeting together,
together, to divide amongst
to divide amongst themselves
themselves the the
(6 tablespoons,
(6 tablespoons, scant milk which has been
scant 1-* cup) milk been boiled with with chosen parts of
chosen parts of the
the animal.
animal. They They continued
continued to to dodo this
this on on the
the
35 g.
35 (2 tablespoons,
g. Q tablespoons, 33 tablespoons)
tablespoons) sugar sugar andand allowed
allowed to occasion of
occasion of the
the two great events
two great events of of their
their lives,
lives, birth
birth and and
cool. Add
cool. Add half
halfaa vanilla
vanilla bean (or (or 1-] teaspoon
teaspoon vanilla
vanilla essence) death.
death. TheseThese were were the the first
first banquets.
banquets.
and
and stir
stir well. Bring slowly to just
weIl. Bring just under the the boil, stirring ail all When large large ga therings at
gatherings at table
table became
became possible,
possible, the the eraera ofof
the time;
the time; remove
remove from from the heat. The texture should be be that banquets
banquets began. The The most magnificent were were those
those thatthat took
took
of
of thick
thick cream.
cream. place in the fertile fields fields of of the
the orient,
orient, especially
especially rich rich in
in spices
spices
Rub
Rub thethe pulp
pulp ofof 4 bananas
bananas through
through a fine sieve, mix with with and
and fiavourings.
flavourings.
egg yolks
22 egg yolks andand a heaped
heaped tablespoon butter, and and add
add this The banqueb of tbe
The banquets the Egyptians
Egrptians -- The The Egyptians
Egyptians were were veryvery
mixture
mixture to the cream in the saucepan. Add the stifly
the cream stiffly whisked careful in their cooking, cooking, because because they they believed
believed that that illnesses
illnesses
egg whites.
egg whites. were caused by the wrong choice choice and and cooking
cooking offood. of food. Con- Con-
Butter
Butter a a soufr6
soufflé dish, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, and pour
sugar, and trary to the customs
trary customs of most Eastern Eastern countries,
countries, the the women
women
in
in the
the mixture.
mixture. Bake Bake in in aa slow ovenoyen (160"C.,
(160°C., 325"F.,
325°F., Gas took
took chargecharge of of thethe organisation
organisation of of banquets
banquets in in Egypt,
Egypt,
Mark
Mark 3) 3) for
for 1212 to 15 minutes.
to 15 minutes. directing
directing the the service and and presiding at at table.
table. The The guests
guests werewire
BANIX)L
BANDOL -- Charming port in the &ipartement
Charming fishing port département of
ushered into
ushered into an an ante-room
ante-room on on their
their arrivaI,
arrival, where where they they
Var washed their
washed their handshands and and feet.feet. They
They then then disported
disported them- them-
Var which given its
has given
which has name to
its name to excellent white, red
red and
selves in various games before the feast.
ros6
rosé wines produced in
wines produced locality. (See pROVENCE.)
the locality.
in the PROVENCE.) feast.
At the entrance to the banqueting banqueting hall, hall, servants
servants crowned
crowned
BANGI -
BANGI - Small tree which
Small tree grows in
which grows the philippines.
in the Philippines. It is them with wreaths of flowers. The The first
first drinks
drinks were were served,
served.
lactescent and
lactescent and produces
produces aa pleasant,
pleasant, green coloured fruit, the
green coloured prayers were said, and the
prayers the meal
meal began.
began. The The guests
guests sat sat onon the
the
size ofan
size of an orange.
orange. floor, and and the the various dishes dishes were placed near
were placed near them,
them, in in
BANILLES baskets.
baskets. Young musicians provided music on
provided music on the harp, lyrethe harp, lyre
BANILLES -- Long, Long, tapering small pods
tapering small pods which
which have
have some
sorne
and tambourine; sometimes there
and there were
were performances by
similarity to
similarity to the
the vanilla bean. They
vanilla bean. contain a
They contain a fragrant,
fragrant, by
acrobats and mimes.
acrobats mimes.
sugary juice
sugary which is
juice which is often
often used instead of
used instead vanilla in
of vanilla in the
the
manufacture Herodotus, Athanaeus
Herodotus, Athanaeus and and Plutarch
Plutarch have have recorded
recorded that that
manufacture of
ofchocolate.
chocolate.
in order
order to to stimulate
stimulate the the guests to to enjoy
enjoy earthly
earthly pleasures
pleasures to to
BANQUET
BANQUET -- The The word
word possibly
possibly comes
cornes from
from banc (bench).
banc (bench). the full,
the full, aa coffin
coffin was was sometimes
sometimes brought brought in in atat the
the end
end of of the
the
ItIt may
may have been on
have been benches that
on benches the first
that the first Christians
Christians sat
sat as
as meal, with
meal, with an imitation skeleton skeleton in in it,
it, so
so that
that theythey should
should
they
they celebrated
celebrated their agapes in
their agapes in the
the catacombs.
catacombs. appreciate more
appreciate more highly the the goodgood things
things of of life,
Iife, especially
especially
Whatever
Whatever the origin of
the origin of thethe word,
word, banquet
banquet signifies
signifies aa those of
those of the
the table.
table.
sumptuous meal given
sumptuous meal to aa large
given to large number
number of of guests
guests on
on festal
festal The banquets
banquets of of the
the Assyrians
Assyrians and and the
the Chaldeam
Chaldeans - Strabo
oror ceremonial occasions. Or
ceremonial occasions. Or itit is
is given
given to to bring
bring together
together
The
tells us that the
us that the epitaph
epitaph inscribed
inscribed on on thethe tomb
tomb of
- Stra bo
of Sardana-
Sardana-
tells

76
76
 BANQUET
BANQUET

Fresco showing
Fresco meal in
showing aa meal in
Greek
Greek times
limes

palus 'Sardanapalus, the

reads: 'sardanapalus,
palus reads: son of Anacyndara,
the son Anacyndara, had ostriches, geese
ostriches, geese and cocks.'
and cocks.'
the towns of Anchiale and Tarsus Tarsus built in aa day. day. Passer-by, The Book
The Book of of Esther describes aa banquet
Esther describes banquet given given by by
eat, drink and and be merry, for nothing else matters!' matters!' Ahasuerus, when when Queen Vashti's fall from
Vashti's fail favour was
from favour pro-
was pro-
The Assyrians celebrated the
The Assyrians victories of
the victories of their
their armies
armies claimed after she refused to
had refused
she had to appear,
appear, at at the king's orders.
the king's orders.
with banquets. In an Assyrian bas-relief, we can see the king This magnificent
This magnificent banquet, served in
banquet, served in the the palace
pblace gardens,
gardens,
reclining on a sumptuous couch, the queen sitting at his feet,
reclining lasted seven
lasted The couches
days. The
seven days. couches werewere of of silver
silver and gold, and
and gold, and
the table richly
the table richly decked,decked, slaves slaves playing on on stringed instru- abundance ofwine
an abundance of wine was was poured into gold
poured into gold cups.
cups.
ments. The
ments. The vessels
vessels on on the table have
the table have no feet; they
no feet; they were The banquets of
The Greeks -- City
the Greeks
of the City Feasts
Feasts were were organised
organised
designed to be be quaffed in in one copious draught. by the
by ancient Greeks
the ancient Greeks on on social
social oror religious
religious occasions.
occasions. In In
Maspéro,
Masp6ro, in rnhis his Lectures Historiques,
Historiqtres, gives gives aa description
description addition to
addition to these
these banquets
banquets for for special occasions, citizens
special occasions, citizens
of one
of one of of these
these banquets
banquets orderedordered by by Ashur-bani-pal,
Ashur-bani-pal, the were required to
were to eat
eat aa sacred
sacred meal together every
meal together within
day, within
every day,
king under whom whom Nineveh reached the the height of of its
its power: prytaneum, in
the prytaneum,
the in the
the presence
presence of of the
the sacred
sacred fire fire and
and the the
'The doors of the the palace remained
remained open open to ail all corners
comers for for protecting gods.
protecting gods. TheThe Greeks
Greeks believed
believed thatthat if if tbis custom was
this custom was
seven
seven days. Multicoloured draperies
days. Multi-coloured draperies hung hung on on thethe walls,
walls, missed by
missed by aa single
single day, would lose
they would
day, they lose the favour of
the favour of their
their
transforming
transforming the the court courtyards
yards into into immense
immense banqueting gods.
gods.
halls.
halls. People
People crowded
crowded into into them
them fromfrom morning
morning till till night,
night, In Athens,
In Athens, men men were
were selected
selected by lot to
by lot attend the
to attend meal, and
the meal, and
stretching
stretching out out on on couches
couches and and ordering whateverwhatever they liked.
they liked. were severely
were punished ifif they
severely punished refused to
they refused perform this
to perform duty.
this duty.
Women and and children,
children, as as well
well asas men,
men, were admitted to
were admitted to this
this Those who
Those who sat at the
sat at the sacred
sacred table wore white
table wore white robes
robes and and
largesse. Nor
largesse. Nor were were soldiers,
soldiers, whose
whose duties prevented them
duties prevented them crowns of
crowns of flowers.
flowers. TheyThey werewere called parasites, then
called parasites, then aa sacred
sacred
leaving
leaving the the barracks,
barracks, forgotten;
forgotten; the the king
king sent food and
sent food drink
and drink title. but
title, but lalater destined to
ter destined become aa term
to become term of of contempt.
contempt. The The
to
to those
those whowho could
could not not come.'
come.' parasites had
parasites disappeared by
had disappeared by the time of
the time of Demosthenes,
Demosthenes, but but
In
In Babylon,
Babylon, there there were were orchards
orchards and and gardens capable of
gardens capable of the prytanes were
the prytanes still required
were still required to to eat together inin the
eat together the
supplying
supplying the the town
town with with food
food during
during aa longlong siege.
siege. The
The sump-
sump- prytaneum.
prytaneum.
tuousness
tuousness of of the the banquets
banquets there there equalled
equalled those those of of thethe Women were
Women were never invited to
never invited Greek banquet.
to aaGreek banquet.The guests
The guests
Assyrians.
Assyrians. took their
took their shoes
shoes offoff before entering the
before entering the banqueting
banqueting hall, hall,
The
The banquets
banquets of of thethe Hebrews
Hebrews -- The The Hebrews
Hebrews were nomads
were nomads rested on
rested on couches
couches for for aa time, washed, and
time, washed, invoked the
and invoked gods
the gods
for
for aa long
long period,
period, having having come come out out ofof Chaldea
Chaldea to to occupy
occupy the the of home
of country before
and country
home and before sitting down to
sitting down tothe Young
feast. Young
the feast.
land
land of of Canaan.
Canaan. ProsperityProsperity and and peace
peace on on the
the banks
banks of of the
the girls played upon
girls played upon the harp and
the harp andJute, and there
lute, and dancing
were dancing
there were
Jordan
Jordan enabled
enabled them them to to partake
partake of of the
the pleasures
pleasures of of the
the table.
table. girls.
girls.
At first
At first they
they werewere simple simple pleasures,
pleasures, but but when luxury and
when luxury and
refinement
refinement were were introduced
introduced their their banquets
banquets became became very very
elaborate.
elaborate. At At thethe timetime of of the
the kings
kings they
they satsatdown
down to to table,
table, butbut
later
later adopted
adopted the the habit
habit of of reclining
reclining on on couches
couches to to eat. They
eat. They
perfumed
perfumed their their wine wine with with essences,
essences, and and when
when guests arrived
guests arrived
for
for aa banquet,
banquet, holy holy waterwater and perfume was
and perfume poured over
was poured over
them,
them, theythey were
were crowned
crowned with with flowers,
flowers, and andtooktook their
their places
places
according
according to to their
their rank. rank.
Music
Music was was made made 'with 'with the harp, the
the harp, the tabret
tabret and andpipe.'
pipe.'
Women
Women were werenot not atatfirstfirstadmitted
admitted totothe thefeasts,
feasts, but
but they
they were
were
accepted inin time,
accepted time, and andwere were handsomely
handsomely entertained,
entertained,the the
Sabeans
Sabeans from from the the desert putting bracelets
desert putting bracelets on theirwrists
on their wrists
and
and crowns
crowns on ontheir their heads.
heads.
The
The banquets
banquetsof of thethePersians
Persians -- Athenaeus
Athenaeussays: says:'One 'One
thousand
thousand animais
animalsare areslaughtered
slaughtered daily dailyfor forthe
theking's
king's table;
table;
horses,
horses,camels,
camels,oxen, oxen,asses,asses, deer
deerand andmostmostof of the
thesmaller
smaller
animals.Many
animaIs. Manybirds birdsare arealso
alsoconsumed,
consumed, such Arabian
suchasasArabian Dancingand
Dancing musicatata aGreek
andmusic banquet
Greekbanquet

77
77
 BANQUET
BANQUET

The banquets of the Romans - The splendours of Imperial

_Tbe Thebanquets
banquebofofthe theGauls (100B.C.)
B.C.)- -The Thefood
banquets of tbe Romans - The splendours of Imperial The Gauls(100 foodofofthe the
Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often earlyGauls Gaulsconsisted
consistedmainly mainlyofoffresh freshororsalted
Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often early saltedpork,pork,the the
sacrificed the dishes themselves to presentation and ostenta- animalsthey theyraisedraisedininthe theforests,
sacrrnced the dishes themselves to presentation and ostenta- animais forests,and andmilk.milk.TheirTheirmealsmeals
tion. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his guests 600 togetherwere werelong,long,served
servedby by young people.AAbrazier brazierwiwith th
tion. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his 600
ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils with precious spitsand cauldronswas
andcauldrons was placed near the tables,and
ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils foodwas
andfood was
stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. cookedininthem. them.
stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. cooked
The room where the Romans took their meals was called Theguestsguestssat saton onbundles
bundles ofofstraw
The room where the Romans took their meals was called The strawround roundlow lowtables.
tables.
the triclinium; it was the custom to put only three couches Greatquantities
quantitiesofofmeat, meat,boiled,boiled,roastedroastedononthe
the tricliniwn; it was the custom to put Great thespitspitoror
round a table. Each guest brought his own napkin. On arrival, grilled,with withaalittle littlebread,
bread,constituted
constituted the
round a table. Each brought his own grilled, themeal.
meal.
the guests changed into white robes and sandals, and took Posidonious, the theGreekGreekstoic stoicphilosopher,
the white robes and and took Posidonious, philosopher, has hasleft lefta a
their places at table according to their status. After invoking description of ofthethemeal:
meal:
at according to their status. After invoking description
the Penates, Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating 'Thefood food isisservedserved ininaac1ean cleanway: way:on onsilsilver
Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating 'The ver ororcopper
copper
with their fingers.
with their fingers. dishesininrich
dishes richhouses,
houses,on onearthenware
earthenwareororwood wooden en ones
onesininthe the
homes of
homes ofthethe poor.Each Eachman mantakes takesaawho whole jointand
le joint andbites;
bites;
should the
should the piecebe betootoo toughorortoo toobig, big,he hecutscutsititwith
withaa
small knife,the
small knife, thescabbard
scabbard ofwhich which isisattached
attachedtotohis hissword.
sword.
AAsingle drinking vessel
singledrinking vesselof ofearthenware
earthenwareor ormetal
metalisishandedhanded
round by
round byslaves
slaves and and makes
makesmany manyrounds,rounds,but butone drinks
onedrinks
little atat aa time.'
little time.'
The Gauls
The Gaulsdrank drank various
variouswines wines from from the thehorns
hornsof of wild
wild
oxen, ornamented
oxen, ornamented with goldor
with gold orsilver
silver rings;and andsometimes
sometimes
from the
from the skulls
skulls of of their
their enemies
enemies killed killed inin battle,or orof oftheir
their
own dead
own parents, whose
dead parents, whosememory memory they they thusthus wished
wished toto
honour, out
honour, out of of filial
filial piety.
piety.
A Roman banquet The wines
wines of of Bezier
Bezier and and Vien Vienna,
A Roman banquet The na, and andItalian
Italian and andGreekGreek
wines, were
wines, were seenseen on on the
the tables
tables of of the rich. They
the rich. They werewere taken
taken in in
The first course
The first course waswas thethe hors-d'œuvre,
hors-d'euvre, served with aa Iight
served with light small quantities, and
small quantities, and diluted
diluted with with water.
water. The The poor poor drank
drank
wine. The
The second
second was was the
the coena,
coena, whichwhich was was the main course,
the main couise, beer, and and hydromel
hydromel -- herb herb and and spice-fiavoured
wine. beer, spice-flavoured honey, honey,
after which
after which sacrifices were made
sacrifices were made to to the
the Lares
Lares amid
amid silence.
silence. diluted with
diluted with water.
water.
The third
The third course
course was was the
the dessert,
dessert, freshfresh or or dried fruit or
dried fruit fruit
or fruit Fish was
Fish was eaten
eaten in in areas
areas nearnear the sea, and
the sea, and mainly grilled,
baked in
baked in pastries,
pastries, but but there
there was was sometimes
sometimes aa more more solid solid seasoned with
seasoned with salt and cumin
salt and cumin and and sprinkled
sprinkled with with vinegar.
course instead
instead of of dessert.
dessert. In In aa menu
menu found found in in the ruins of
the ruins of OnOn special
special occasions,
occasions, the the guests
guests sat at aa round
course sat at round table, aa
Pompeii, this
Pompeii, this course included sows'
course included sows' udders,
udders, wild wild boar's
boar,s prominent place
prominent place being given to
being given to thethe most
most distinguished
distinguished or or
head, fricassie
head, fricassée of wild duck,
of wild duck, and and aa cream
cream made made of flour and
of fiour and the most
the most valiant.
valiant. There There was was aa customcustom that that thethe legs
legs of of the
the
Vicence cakes. animals served
animais should be
served should allotted to
be allotted to the
the bravest.
bravest. ThisThis was
Vicence cakes. was aa
Musicians, poets
_ Musicians, poets andand dancers
dancers appeared at at important
important source of
source of quarrels,
quarrelso and and often
often aa fightfight to to the
the death.
death.
banquets, and
banquets, sometimes there
and sometimes there werewere gladiator fighti, acro-
OI~It11~rr\r fights, The banquets of
Tbe of the
the Gallo-Romans
Gallo-Romans -- The The wealthy
wealthy Gallo- Gallo-
bats
bats and
and clowns.
clowns. Romans adopted Latin Latin customs,
customs, and and their
their banquets were were
There
There are are many accounts of
many accounts of the grandiose luxury
the grandiose luxury of of the modelled on the Roman, though they they discarded
discarded the custom custom
barbaric
barbaric feastsfeasts given
given by by the Romans. petronius
the Romans. Petronius givesgives us of reclining
of reclining on on couches.
some idea of
sorne idea of what
what they
they were were like like in in this
this extract
extract fromfrom a De la la Bédolière,
B6dolibre, in in his
his Moeurs
Moeurs et et vie privie des des Français,
Frangais,
description of
description one of
of one of these, Trimalchio's feast:
these, Trimalchio's feast: describes the
describes the banquets
banquets of of the the Gallo-Romans; here here areare
'On
'On aa traytray ofof relishes stood a
relishes stood a small
small bronze
bronze ass,ass, carrying
carrying extracts:
twin
twin baskets,
baskets, one one containing
containing green green and and the the other
other biackblack 'Some
'Sorne Gauls, Gauls, disdaining
disdaining the the indolence of of thethe Romans,
Romans,
olives. Salvers, moulded
olives. Salvers, moulded Iike bridges, like bridges, contained
contained dormice, use
use benches, stools and and other wooden seats seats covered
covered with aa
seasoned with
seasoned with honey
honey and and poppy seeds. seeds. ThereThere were sizzling carpet instead
instead of ofcouches.
couches ... . . The guests put on special robes
sausages on
sausages silver gridiron, with Syrian
on aa silver Syrian plums plums and pome- and sandals and take their places around the table . .. . . Slaves
Slaves
granate
granate seeds placed beneath it.
seeds placed ..A
it ... basket was placed
A basketwas placed before bring in a great quantity of meat, roast or or boiled, whichwhich is is
us_containing
us con taining aa hen, hen, wings
wings spread
spread out ou t asas ifif she were hatching.
she were ha tching. carved with great skill skiU and dexterity by by servants. The meal meal
We
We broke
broke the egg, which
the egg, which was was made made of of light
light pastry
pastry looking
looking starts with a tasting of
starts of mulsurn
mulswn ot or medwn,
medum,mulled mulled wine wine mixed
exactly like
exactly like the
the shell . . and
shell .... and found found in in itit aa plump
plump beccafico
beccafico with honey ....
with honey . . A salver
sai ver is placed
placed in the centre centre of of the table
table and
(garden
(garden warbler),
warbler), deliciously
deliciously spiced, hidden hidden insidlinside the
the y-olk.
yolk. various
various dishes dishes are put on it one after the other: fresh eggs,
Crystal
Crystal flagons, carefully
carefully sealed, were brought in. in. Around
Around quarters of beef, mutton, pork, goat,
of beef, goat, all seasoned
seasoned with yolks
the neck
the neck of each bottle
each bottle hunghung a a label: Falernian opimian op imian of egg, black pepper,
egg, black pepper, brine,brine, cumin,
cumin, salt .... .
wine 100 years
;vine 100 years old.'
old.' As
As aa dessert,
dessert, the the guests
guests areare served with hot or cold cold tarts.
tarts,
The long
The long account
account goes goes on on to to list
list the
the fantastic
fantastic manner
manner in in honey
honey cakes, cakes, soft cheese, cheese, grilled escargots, medlars, chest- chest-
which
which dishes
dishes were served;; aa tray
were served tray with
with the the twelve signs of
twelve signs of the
the nuts,
nuts, figs,figs, Gaul peaches and grapes. At the end of
and grapes. of the mealmeal
zodiac reproduced
zodiac reproduced on on itit in
in aa circle,
circle, onon which
which thethe chef
chef had had hot mu/sUIn is
hot mulswn is brought in once again, and and slaves distribute
placed dishes
dishes analogous to to thethe particular constellation
constellation -- aa toothpicks
toothpicks made made of feathers, wood and and silver.'
silver.'
piece of over Taurus (the
beef over
of beef (the Bull), kidneyskidneys and and testicles
testicles The banquets of
The banquets of the
tbe Franks
Franks -- Caius Caius Sollius ApollinarisApollinaris
over Cancer (the
over Cancer (the Crab),
Crab), the uterus of aa sow
the uterus over Virgo
sow over Virgo (the (the Sidonius
Sidonius states states that that oneone could
could find find in in the
the banquets of of the
the
Virgin),
Virgin), aa hare hare over Sagittarius (the
over Sagittarius Archer), two
(the Archer), two mullets
mullets Franks
Franks 'the 'the elegance
elegance of of Greece,
Greece, the the abundance
abundance of Gaul, Gaul, thethe
over (the
Pisces (the Fish),
over Pisces Fish), andand so on. An
so on. enormous wild
An enonnous wild boar
boar dispatch of of ltaly,
Italy, the the pomp
pomp of of public
public ceremonial
ceremonial allied allied to to
was served on
was served on aa platter,
platter, with with little
little pastry
pastry sucking pigs lasUOlOllsness of
the fastidiousness of aa private
private table,
table, of of the
the order
order befitting
befitting aa
pressing
pressingon on thethe teats . . AA slave
teats .... slave gave the boar aa stab irrthe
the boar king's palace.'
palace.'
belly and out
belly and flew aa cloud
out flew cloud of of thrushes, trying trying to to escape.
escape. Writers of of thethe period
period mention
mention silver silver tables,
tables, gold gold andand
Bird
Bird catchers
catchers caughtcaught themthem with with fowlers'
fowlers' rods. rods, and
and offered
offered silver
silver utensils,
utensils, tablecloths
tablecloths fashioned
fashioned from from fresh
fresh roses.
roses. TheThe
them
themtotothe theguests.
guests. Franks were
Franks were very very hospitable,
hospitable, and and had had aa strict
strict code
code of of table
table

78
78
 BANQUET
BANQUET

manners. Wine
manners. Wine was passed round
was passed round the table and
the table and thethe guests
guests Faïence and
Faience and Nevers porcelain, Venetian
Nevers porcelain, glass. Forks
Venetian glass. Forks and
and
drank from
drank from the same cup.
the same cup. Lamps
Lamps werewere considered
considered to to spoons had
long-handled spoons
long-handled come into
had come into use, and cooking
use, and cooking lad had
desecrate the table
desecrate the at aa banquet;
table at the room
banquet ;the was lit
room was lit by
by torches
torches more refined.
become more
become Belon, inhis
refined. Belon, in his TraitC
Traité des Oyseaux writes
des Oyseaux writes
held aloft
held aloft byby slaves.
slaves. of
of 'a thousand little
'a thousand disguises of
little disguises made into
ftesh, made
of flesh, into soups'
soups,
French banquets from
French banquets from the the Middle Ages to
Middle Ages to the
the fifteenth
fifteenth Jricassies, salads.' After
hashes, salads.'
jricassées, hashes, After roast
roast and boiled joints
and boiled joints and
and
century -- The
century beginning of
The beginning ofaa banquet announced by
was announced
banquet was by the
the game,
game, there were cold
there were cold desserts'such as fruits,
desserts 'such as milk products,
fruits, milk products,
sound of
sound of a horn, a
a horn, a privilege reserved for
privitege reserved for thethe highest
highest sweetmeats, cakes,
sweetmeats, cheese, chestnuts,
cakes, cheese, Capendy apples,
chestnuts, Capendy apples, aa
personages in
personages the kingdom.
in the kingdom. Guests washed their
Guests washed hands with
their hands with salad of
salad lemons or
of lemons or pomegranates.'
pomegranates.'
perfumed
perfumed water before sitting
water before sitting down, and after
down, and each course;
after each course; French banquets ofthe
French banquets century -- In
seventeenth century
of the seventeenth reign of
the reign
In the of
forks had not
forks had invented; food
been invented;
not been food was eaten with
was eaten with fingers.
fingers. Louis XIII,
Louis there was
XIII, there was less display at
less display banquets and
at banquets and more
more
emphasis on
emphasis on harmony
harmony and simplicity. Under
and simplicity. Louis XIV,
Under Louis XIV,
however,
however, there usually four
were usually
there were dishes -- roast
substantial dishes
four substantial roast

Meal served
Meal Grandgousier, Gars:?ti:;.i*-,
served to Grandgousier, from an old
Gargaotua 's father, from edition of
old edition of the
works of Rabelais

Goblets
Goblets and tankards were placed on
and tankards on a side table,
a side table, and
filled pages who brought them
fiUed by pages This manner
them to the guests. Th.is
meals survived until the end
of serving wine during meals end of the
In royal courts, the dishes were tasted
century. In
eighteenth century.
with aa talisman, to assure
by aa special servant, or touched with
by
the royal personages that
the the food
that the not poisoned. The
was not
food was
menus were exotic, and included roast peacocks with gilded
bills and
bills and claws,
claws, swans and pheasants
swans and pheasants dressed
dressed inin their
plumage, ca Ives and
calves presented. The dessert, of
and pigs ornately presented. of
fruit and
fruit and creams, followed by
was followed
creams, was fruit preserves,
dried fruit
by dried
pastry and
pastry and hippocras (spiced wine)
hippouas (spiced wine)..
French banquets the sixteenth
banqueb of the great ban-
sixteentb century -- The great
given during
quets given
quets during this show aa love
century show
this century of opulence;
love of
richly wrought and
richly and engraved gold and
engraved gold and silver dinner plate,
silver dinner A Royal
A Royal banquet during the
banquet during reign of
the reign XIV
Louis XIV
of Louis

Kings
Kings at
at ta ble
table
(woodcut,, Lyon,
(woodcut Lyon, 1508)
1508)

79
79
BANQUET

Seventeenth century
Seventeenth cenlUry French
French ban quet fare
banquet rare (Giraudon)
(Giraudon)

meat, poultry and

meat,poultry and game
gameas weil as
as well as tureens
tureens of
ofsoup. These were
soup. These were ments in
ments in the
the same
same order and with
order and with the
the same
same ceremony
ceremony with with
followed
followed by melons, various
by melons, salads in
various salads bowls 'or
in bowls in little
'or in !ittle plates
plates which
which hehe had
had been ushered in.'
been ushered in.'
to
to make serving them
make serving them easier,' comments Nicolas
easier,' comments Nicolas de
.de Bon-
Bon- Madame Vigie-Lebrun's
Madame Vigée-Lebrun's Greek
Greek supper. Among legendary
supper. Among legendary
nefons (Ddlices
nefons (Délices de
de la
la campagne),
campagne), andand goes
goes onon to
to describe
describe what
what eighteenth century
eighteenth century meals
meals waswas aa supper
supper given
given byby the
the artist.
artist.
he considers to
he considers to be
be anan ideal banquet for
ideal banquet for aa company
company of of thirty
thirty Vigée-Lebrun. In her
Vig6e-Lebrun. her memoirs
memoirs she describes 'the
she describes 'the most
most
people.
people. Among
Among other dishes there
other dishes there should
should be be aa potage
potage de de Ia
la brilliant supper I1 ever
brilliant supper ever gave,'
gave,' which was, in fact, a miniature
which was, miniature
Reine, made of
Reine, made of minced partridge or
minced partridge pheasant, in
or pheasant, the first
in the first banquet. Her brother
banq uet. Her brother was
was reading
reading aa book
book ofof travels
travels to
to her
her one
one
course; roast
course; roast venison
venison haunches
haunches baked baked in pastry in
in pastry in the
the afternoon while
afternoon she was
while she was resting,
resting, and came to
and came to aa passage
passage
second; woodcock,
second; woodcock, turkeys,turkeys, chickens
chickens andand whole
wbole lambs
lambs in in the
the describing aa Greek
describing Greek dinner
dinner and
and the manner of
the manner of preparing
preparing
third; snipe, thrushes,larks
third; snipe, thrushes, larks and'alland 'ail sorts
sorts of
ofsmall
small fried
fried things'
tbings'
in the fourth;
in the fourth; whole salmon, trout,
wbole salmon, carp, pike,
trou t, carp, pike, withy'icassdes
withJricassées
of turtle in
ofturtle the fifth;
in the fifth; and three finishing
and three finishing courses
courses which
which would would
include blancmanges, fruit,
include blancmanges, almonds and
fruit, almonds and green
green walnuts,
walnuts,
preserves in
preserves in syrup,
syrup, oror dried
dried marzipans
marzipans and and sugar
sugar almonds.
almonds.
French banquets of
French banquets of thethe eighteenth Great pomp
century -- Great
eighteenth century pomp
accompanied
accompanied banquets banquets in in the reign of
the reign Louis XV.
of Louis XV. On On the the
occasion of
occasion of the anointing of
the anointing of the king in
the king 1772, aa royal
in 1772, royal ban-
ban-
quet
quet was held in
was held in the
tbe archiepiscopal
archiepiscopal palace palace at at Rheims.
Rheims.
After
After gorgeous
gorgeous processions
processions headed headed by musicians playing
by musicians playing
oboes, trumpets
oboes, trumpets and and flutes,
fiutes, thethe king
king was
was ledled to
to aa table
table on on aa
dais andjoined
dais and joinedby byhigh
bigh officers
officers of ofstate.
state.
Thecompany
The companycomprised
comprised the the noblest
noblestinin the
the land,
land, butbut ladies
ladies
and princelings
and princelings were were not seated with
not seated with thethe gentlemen,
gentlemen, and and
had
had to wait until
to wait the king
until the king had retired. According
had retired. According to to the
the old
old
document from
document from whichwhich the the above descriptions are
above descriptions are taken:
taken:
'During
'During this this sumptuous
sumptuous banquet banquet the Duchess of
the Duchess of Lorraine,
Lorraine,
wbo, from
who, from her her tribune,
tribune, could could see see all
ail the
the succulent
succulent dishes dishes
filing past without
filing past without beingbeing ableable to to touch
touch them,
them, quietly
quietly nibbled
nibbled
biscuits, with
biscuits, with which
which she she waswas fortunately
fortunately provided
provided .... After
. . After
the
the dinner,
dinner, the Archbishop of
the Archbishop of Rheims
Rheîms said said grace
grace -- the the
Duchess of
Duchess of Lorraine
Lorraine by by this
tbis time
time hadhad reached
reached her her reserves
reserves
ofdried
of dried plums
plums-- and and thethe king
kingwas was re-conducted
re-conducted to to his
his apart-
apart- Cutlerybelonging
Cutlery belongingtoto Louis
LouisXIV
XIV

80
80
 BANQUET
BANQUET

several
several sauces. Madame Lebrun immediately
sauces. Madame immediately decided decided to
have certain of these
have certain sauces for
these sauces for aa supper party party sheshe was
giving tbat evening and summoned her cook, ordering
giving that ordering that
Greek sauces should be served with
Greek sauces witb chickens
cbickens and eels on the
menu.
evening's menu.
A friend who had had a collection of Greek urns
a collection urns and and vases
lent her
lent several ofhis
her several of his best pieces, and the room was
best pieces, decorated
was decorated
in classical
classical style.
Two guests, Monsieur Vaudreuil and and Monsieur Boutin,
were not come until ten o'clock,
not able to come o'clock, but the other guests guests
arrived soon after half-past Madame Lebrun
half-past nine. Madame Lebrun dressed
the women in Grecian fashion from draperies draperies she had in her
studio workroom, and and found
found cloaks and and other picturesque
garments for the men.
While
While they waited for
they waited for the two late
the two guests, her
late guests, her brother
recited several
recited several odes
odes of of Anacreon,
Anacreon. and and when
when the the others
others
they found
arrived, they found the company singing
the company Gluck's cborus
singing Gluck's chorus
from Le Dieu de de Paphos et et de
de Cnide, with M. M. de de Cu bières
Cubibres
accompanying them on a lyre whicb
accompanying which he had improvised from from
guitar.
a guitar.
'In all my life 1I have never seen two faces more astonished
than those of Monsieur de
than de Vaudreuil
Vaudreuil and and his
his companion,'
companion,'
continues Madame Lebrun in in her recital of the event. 'They
event. 'They
were astounded and and charmed.'
At supper,
supper, dishes were were served with the
served with the Greek
Greek sauces,
sauces, asas
well as aa sweet mademade from honey and and currants. They drank
They drank
a bottle of old Cyprus wine which which badhad been aa present to to the
the
artist. 'That was all the excess,'
artist. excess,' she remarks.
remarks.
Rumour quickly ran ran round
round Versailles about about thisthis famous
famous
supper.
supper. It was said to to have cost 20,000 francs. francs. In In Rome
Rome the
whispered
whispered figure was was raised
raised to to 40,000 francs,
francs, in in Vienna
Vienna to to
60,000 Petersburg to 80,000. In
60,000 francs, in Petersburg fact, it
In fact, it co
costst Madame
Madame
Lebrun, according to her memoirs, 15 l5 francs.
francs.
French banque$ in the nineteenth century
French banquets century -- TheThe beginning
of this
this century
century sawsaw the
the publication
publication of of BriJlat-Savarin's
Brillat-Savarin's la Ia Banquet given by
Banquet given by the Duke of
the Duke Alba to
of Alba to celebra te the
celebrate the birth of the
birth of of
Prince of
the Prince
Physiologie
Physiologie du du goût, in which
goitt, in which he he established
established the the rules
rules ofof Asturias in 1707

Banquet
Banquet given in honour
given in honour of
of Louis
Louis XVI
XVI and
andQueen Marie Antoinette on the ocCasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraviog on metal, Louvre)
Queen Marie Antoinette on the occasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraving on metal, Louvre)

81
8l
 BANQUET
BANQUET

Dinner given
Dinner given on March1806
on77Mareil 1806by bythe
the
Paris printdealers
Paris print dealers tototheir fellow
their feUow
dealer
dealer LeLeConfrère,
Confrdre. The The legend
legend on onthe
the
printt bears
prin bears the
the following inscription:
following inscription:
'They beg
'They beghim
him to toaccept
acc€pt this light
thislight
sketch
sketchasasaatoken
tokenof oftheir
their esleem
esteemand and
friendship.
friendship. MayMay he heremember
rernember them them
sometimes
sometimes inin his
his retirement
retirement and foraa
and for
long
long lime
timeenjoy
enjoy thethe happiness
happiness he he
deserves
deserves for
for rus
his kindness
kindness of heart and
ofheart and
probity'
probity'

harmoniously. For aa great

dining harmoniously. great gala dinner
dinner he laidlaid down:
down: special
special sweet
sweet dishes
dishes and
and several
several kinds
kinds ofof cheese,
cheese, figure
figure on
on
'That the dining-room be luxuriously lit,
be luxuriously lit, the cloth be
the c10th of
be of the menu.
the The wine
menu. The wine was
was Clos-Vougeot,
Clos-Vougeot, and and the
the company
company
the utmost cleanliness, and
utmost c1eanliness, and the
the temperature from from 13 to 16
13 to 16 did not
did not depart until three
depart until three o'clock
o'clock inin the
the morning.
morning.
R6aumur thermometer (61
degrees by the Réaumur (6l"to
() to 66°F.).
66"F.). Banquets onder the Second
under the Second Empire
Empire -- There
There was
was aa number
number
'That the men be witty wi
'That withoutpretensions
thout' pre tensions and and the women
women of magnificent
of gastronomical galas,
magnificent gastronomical galas, and
and inin the
the sections
sections
without being too coquettish.
channing without
charming COOKING and
headed COOKING
headed and MENUS,
MENUS, examples
examples are
are given of
given of
'That the choice of dishes
'That dishes be be exquisite but restrained in in what these
what these state
state dinners
dinners were
were like.
like.
number, and and the winwines first quality, each the
the first
es of the the best ofof
its kind.
'That the order for the the former should he from the
be from the most
substantial to the lightest, and for the latter from the lightest
to those with the greatest
greatest bouquet.
'That the speed of
the speed of eating
eating should
should be moderate, dinner
be moderate,
being the last affair of the day; and and that the guestsguests behave
like
like travellers who aim to
who aim to arrive at at the
the same
same destination
together.
'That the coffee be scalding hot, and the liqueurs specially
chosen by the master of the house.'
chosen house.'
He added rules for the guests' entertainment
added rules entertainment after dinner:
'That the salon be- be sufficiently
sufficiently spacious
spacious to organise
organise agame
a game
of cards for for those whowho cannot do do without,
without, and to leave
and to
enough room to enable enable the rest to enjoy conversation.
'That
'That the guests be be held by the pleasure
pleasure of the company,
and stirred
and by the hope
stirred by hope that
that the evening
evening will
will not
not pass without
without
sorne further entertainment.'
some entertainment.'
In
In the same
sa me epoch, the gastronome Grimod de la Reynière
epoch, the Reynibre
established a Charte de bon manger.In
also established manger. In his bis Manuel desdes
amphitryons are decreed laws governing
arnphitryons governing banquets. He him- hi m-
self gave grand dinners, some
self gave sorne of
ofthem
them eccentric; he once sent
out
out invitations
invitations for a dinner in the form forro of
of obituary notices,
bidding his
bidding his guests
guests 'attend
'attend the
the funeral
funeral and obsequies
obsequies of of a big
feed.'
feed.'
Fashionable restaurants. During the nineteenth
Fashionable restaurants, nineteenth century,
century,
' was a vogue for
there was
there for magnfficent banquets in certain res-
magnificent banquets
taurants. At
taurants. At one
one such dinner,
dinner, given
given at Rocher
Rocher de Cancale by
de Cancaleby
aa certain English Lord
certain English Lord W.,W., Marennes oysters,
oysters, aa ham roasted
on a spit, grouse
on brought specially from Scotland, salads,
grouse brought salads, The coronation dinner
The coronation dinner of
of Charles
Charles X
X at Reims
at Reims

82
82
 BS{mQUILLES

Banquet held Novernber 1905

held in la Galerie des Machines in Paris, 5 November

Later banquets -- Things were quite different

were quite in the later
different in from the
from the black
black Grenache grape. The Banyuls
grape. The grand cru
Banyuls grand
(22 Sep-
banquet' (22
banquets and at the celebrated 'mayors' banquet' to undergo
have to
have an obligatory maturing period of thirty
undergo an
tember 1900), guests of the President
1900), 22,295 guests of the Republic,
President of wood before being released for consumption.
months in wood consumption.
attired in frock coats and
in frock and crush hats,
hats. were
were served with an
identical menu:
BAOBAB - The
BAOBAB - The largest known tropical African
largest known tree. Its
African tree.
fruit isis called
fruit called monkey-bread, because monkeys eat
because monkeys eat it.
it. Its
Hors-d'auvre
Hors-d'œuvre flavour, is made
pulp, which is very sweet with aa slight acid flavour,
Filet de boeuf m Bellevue
boeuf en Bellevue into aa refreshing drink much liked by the local inhabitants
inhabitants
Pains de canetons de Rouen of
of the region where this magnificent grows, and is drunk
magnificent tree grows,
Poularde de Bresse rôtie
r6tie aa great deal in Morocco and Egypt.
Ballottine
Ballottine defaisan Saint-Hubert
de faisan Saint-Hubert The Africans dry
The dry the leaves of the baobab in in the
the shade,
shade,
Salade Potel call lalo, and
reduce them to powder which they caUlalo, and mix it with
Glace succès Condi
succCs Condé their food.
Desserts
number of guests sat down
Never before had such a large number
together at aa single meal, recounts M. Christian Guy in his
Histoire
Histoire de la cuisine française; this was successfully
cuisinefrangaise; successfully achieved
achieved
by the excellent organisation
organisation of Maison Potel et et Chabot.
It is interesting to note that the menus ofof official
official banquets
never mention the
never mention the cheeses
cheeses served.
served. This may have
This may have been
formed part of the dessert and so needed no
because cheese fonned
special mention.
BANQUIDRE (À
BANQUIÈRE (A LA) -- Garnish
Garnish used
used for chicken, calves'
sweetbreads, vol-au-vent. It is made of
vol-au-vent It of quenelles, mushrooms,
thin slivers
thin of trufles
slivers of truffies andand banquière sauce. (See
banquidre sauce.
GARNTSHES.)
GARNISHES.)
BANTAM
BANT AM -- AA variety of Java
Java chickens, named after the
originated. These birds have a very delicate
town where they origjnated.
prepared in the same way as ordinary
flesh, and are prepared ordinary chickens.
chickens.
BANVIN -- French word for the feudal right which which allowed
the seigneur
the to sell
seigneur to wine from
the wine
sell the his estate
from his for aa certain
estate for
time, before
time, before anyone
anyone else.
else. The word is
The word also used
is also for the
used for
proclamation announcing
proclamation announcing the day after
the day after which
which priva
private
te
could
persons cou Id sell
sell new wine. Baobab
BAI\YUIS -- Commune
BANYULS Commune in the eastem
eastern Pyrenees, which has
given its name to aa well-known
well-known appellation controlée
controlie dessert BARAQUILLES -- A A hot hors-d'euvre; triangular patties,
hot hors-d'œuvre;
and Banyuls grand cru,
wine -- Banyuls and crz, which is
is produced filled with aa salpicon
filled with (q.v.) of winged
salpicon (q.v.) game fillets,
winged game fillets, caives'
calves'
from the slaty
from the mountainous terrain
slaty mountainous in aa restricted
terrain in restricted zone gras, trutHes
foie gras,
sweetbreads, foie trufles and mushrooms, bound with
comprising the
comprising the communes
communes of of Banyuls,
Banyuls, Port-Vendres,
Port-Vendres, Madeira-flavoured Allemande sauce
Madeira-flavoured (see SAUCE).
sauce (see SAUCE). Bar- Aar-
exclusivelv
Cerbbre and Collioure. This wine is made almost exclusively
Cerbère prepared as rissoles.
aquilles are also prepared
aquilles

83
BARASHmflrffMesU
BARASHEKII2f.MASLA

BAR (Butter lamb) (Russian cookery) - Fried barbel.

Fried barbel. sARBtLLoN
BARBILLON FRIT FRlr -- Proceed
Proceed as as described
described in
Make lamb with butter which has been ren- the recipe for for Fried bass bass (see BASS).BASS).
dered left in ic€
ice water. Coyer
Cover the model with a Grilled
Grined barbel. BARBILLoNBARBILLON GRILLÉ cnnr,6 -- Proceed
Proceed as as described
thin utter, down with aa coarse-weave
tter, pressing down coarse-weave in the recipe for
in for Grilled
Grilled bass
Dass (see BASS).
cloth to give the appearance
appearance of fleece.
fleece. Mark the Barbel àI la meunière.
meunibre. BARBILLoN
BARBILLON À A LA MsuNItnn -- Proceed
Ln MEUNIÈRE
eyes with trufles, or two raisins. Put
ttle circles of truffies, Put a described in
as described in the recipe for Bass .Bass àd la meunière
meuniCre (see BASS).
small green ranch in the lamb's mouth. Barbel ài la mode des des mariniers. BARBEAU À rl MODE
A LA Droos DESnEs
This symbolic lamb is is aa feature of the traditional table
the traditional MARINIERS -- Clean and scale al-kg.
MARTNIERs a l-kg. (2-lb.) barbel and cut off
laid for the ritual Easter
Easter meal in Russia. the wattles and and fins.fins. Put the roe, if any, any, back into the fish, fish,
seasoned with salt and pepper.
and pepper.
BARBADOS CREAM. CRÈME
BARBADOS CREAM. DEs BARBADES -- Liqueur
cnirr,c DES
made of lemon,
lemon, orange and citron peel,
and citron peel, mace,
mace, cinnamon,
cinnamon,
Fry 22 chopped
Fry chopped on onions
ions and and 44 shallots lightly in
shallots lightly in butter
without browning,
browning, and place in an earthenware earthenware dish, together
cloyes, sugar
cloves, and eau-de-vie, which
sugar and which was once aa fashionable
with 7 or 8 chopped dried walnuts and and 100 g. (a oz.) chopped
g. (4
drink.
mushrooms.
nARSARfE -- This plant -- also
BARBAREA. BARBARÉE also called
called herb
herb of Make aa few slits in in the fish,
fish, season
season with salt and pepper,
and pepper,
St Barbara, yarrow, and piquant, rather
rocket -- has a piquant,
and yellow rocket and place on the above ingredients in the dish. dish. AddAddz2 glasses
bitter flavour not unlike
flavour not that of cres
unlike that s, and
cress, has the
and has the same red wine, and
red and 100 g. g. (4 oz., ~i cup) butter divided into into small
anti-scorbutic properties~
properties. It grows wild in damp and sandy Bring slowly to the boil on top of the stove, th
pieces. Bring en cook
then
places. in a hot oyen
oven for 35 minutes,
minutes, basting
basting frequently. Ten minutes
A variety
variety of barbarea, called
called land cress or American cress before the end cooking, sprinkle
end of cooking, with breadcrumbs and
sprinkle with and
(U.5. winter
(U.S. winter cress) is cultivatedand
cultivated and eaten in salads. melted butter and and replace in in the oyen.
oven. By the end end of the 35
Barbarea can be prepared in
can be in ail
all the ways
ways recommended
recornmended minutes the wine should should have boiled away. away.
cress. In certain regions it is mixed with spinach.
for cresso spinach. with chopped parsley before serving.
Sprinkle with
Roast barbel.
barbel. BARBEAU
BARBEAU RÔTI n6rr -- MakeMake slits
slits inin aa medium-
BARBARIN -- French name for aa fish
BARBARIN fish of the mullet family.
sized insert fillets
barbel, insert
sized barbel, fillets ofof anchovy in in the
the slits,
slits, sprinkle
BARBARINE -- A
BARBARINE A variety
variety ofof marrow (U.S. squash)
marrow (U.S. squash) of with oil or melted butter, season, and roast in the oyen oven or on
various shapes and sizes.
sizes. It has an
an elongated
elongated shape, rather aa spit. frequently during cooking.
spit. Baste frequently
like aa cucumber, plain yellow or parti-coloured, sometimes
sometimes When the fish fish is cooked and placed on
and placed on aa dish,
dish, dilute the
striped with green. The best barbarines are pale yellow, and
and juices with
pan juices with whitewhite wine,wine, boilboil down,
down, add add 1I tablespoon
can be prepared according to the recipes given
given for marrows butter and a dash of lemon
butter juice, stir weil,
lemon juice,stir well, and serve with the
and
and cucumbers.
cucumbers. fish.
butter or
Anchovy butter Matte d'hôtel
or Maître d h|tel butter BUTTER)
(see BUTTER)
butter (see
can be served at the same time.
BARBERON
BARBER ON -- Name Name used used in in sorne parts of the
some parts the south
south of of
France for for salsify.
BARBERRY. ÉPINE-VINETTEfpNn-vtNsrrs -- A common prickly shrub. shrub. Its
green berries
green berries can can be pickled in
be pickled in vinegar,
vinegar, likelike capers.
capers. The
berries, which ripen
berries, which ripen to to aa red
red colour in in November, contain
Barbel aa great deal of malic
great deal malic and and cicitric
tric acid, andand are
are used
used toto make
syrup, jam, jam, andand aa kindkind of wine.
BARBEL. BARBEAU, BARBILLONBARBTLLoN -- River fish fish recognisable
recognisable by Barberries are are alsoalso used
used to to make aa refreshing drink drink forfor
the barbels at the end of ofthe
the snout, and and at the corners of ofthe
the feverish
feverish conditions.
conditions. A tisane brewed from the
tisane brewed the roots is is used
used
jaws. diuretic, especially
as aa diuretic, especially in in cases of of jaundice.
In France, the
In the common barbel is is found
found in in ail
all the rivers. Dried candied barberries. fpINe-vINErrE CONFITE
barberries. ÉPINE-VINETTE coNFITE AU sEc --
AU SEC
The southern barbel is found found in in the south of France, France, inin the An old
An old recipe says: 'Take large large ripe barberries of aa fine red
fine red
Alpes-Maritimes
Alpes-Maritimes and in the Pyrénées-Orientales.
Pyr6n6es-Orientales. .
colour. Leave them in c1usters. clusters. ForFor 1I kg. (21b.)
kg. (2 lb.) berries, cook
The flesh
The flesh of the
the bar is insipid,
bel is
barbel insipid, andand it it has too many
has too lf kg. (2~
li (2jlb.)
lb.) sugar to a large feather SUGAR). Put in the
feather (see SUGAR).
bones
bones to to be pleasant. The
be pleasant. The fish
fish feeds
feeds onon the river bed
the river bed and barberries and boil on a high flame until bubbles bubbles appear.
appear.
nibbles at at the
the fishermen's bait,
bait, especially
especially those those ofof animal 'Ta\<:e offthe
'Take off the stove. When the fruit is beginning to. to cool, put
origin, which are very much to its taste. It is
origin, fond of crickets
is fond . it inin aa hot cupboard, leaving it to drain on on aa thick c10th
cloth until
and
and grass-hoppers,
grass-hoppers, and in the autumn rises to the in
the surface in next day.
next day. Transfer
Transfer to to sheets
sheets of c1ean
clean white paper to
white paper to finish
finish
their pursuit.
pursuit. draining. Dust
draining. Dust the the c1usters
clusters of berries with sugar
berries with which has
sugar which has
Large barbel, found
found in the Loire, are considered
considered the best, been rubbed through a very fine sieve, sieve, and return them to the the
and may be
and may be poached, braised, baked baked or or roast.
roast. TheThe small hot cupboard to dry off offcompletely.'
completely.'
ones, usually called barbillons, are grilled or
are grilled or fried.
fried. Recipes for the
('Paddler') -- Common French name for
BARBOTEUR ('Padd.ler') the
for barbel can be
for be applied toto the
the catfish of U.S.A. U.S.A. TheThe soft domestic duck. (See DUCK.)
ofbarbel
roes of barbel are
are delicate, but thethe hard roes are reputed reputed to
BARD. BARDER -- To of meat,
be
To bard
bard means to to coyer
cover aa piece of
be poisonous.
rarely,alarge
poultry, game or, more rarely, a large fish before braising it,
BoiJed
Boiled barbel
barbel with variou sauces.
with various sauces. BARBEAU
BARBEAU BOUILLI BoUILLI --
with thin slices ofbacon
of bacon or
or salt
salt or fresh pork, tied with string.
string.
Poach the
Poach the barbel
barbel inin Court-bouillon
Court-bouillon IV IV (see (see COURT-
After cooking, the barding fat is removed.
removed. Its main purpose
BOUILLOI$. Drain
BOUILLON). Drain thoroughly.
thoroughly. Garnish with boiled boiled pot- is or breast of poultry.
is to protect delicate
delicate parts of
of the meat,
meat, or
atoe.s and fr.esh
frssh parsley. Serve, as as recommended
recommended in individual
It is,
is, however,
however; customary
customary to serve roast game -- woodcock,
to serve
recipes, with melted
recipes, with butter or
melted butter or White
White sauce, Butter sauce,
sauce, Butter santce,
quail, pheasant,
pheasant, partridge, etc. fat or
etc. -- with the fat or bacon which
Hollandaise sauce or Caper
Hollandaise Caper sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
was used for barding.
used for
Barbel àt la bourguignonne.
Barbel bornguigDonne. BARBEAU À A LA souncuIGNoNNE
r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE
-- Proceed as as described inin the recipe
recipe for Brill àd la bourguig-
for BrW bourgaig- BARDING FAT.
BARDING n.mon -- Slices
FAT. BARDE Slices of fat bacon,
of fat bacon, or pork fat
or pork fat
nonne (see BRILL). (fresh or salted)
(fresh salted) for enveloping
enveloping poultry and
and game,
game, as
as weil
well as
as

84
84
 BARQUETTES

various cuts of meat, before they

various are braised, poached
they are.braised, poached or
roasted. 1Itt is also used for
roasted. for liningpdt4s cooked in pie-brust
liningpâtés cooked pie-cru st and
terrines.
terrines.

BARIGOULE-
BARIGOULE - Name for a mushroom
mushroom which is also ca
called
lied
brigoule in the
and bourigoule in
brigoule and the south It is
south of France. It is very
good to eat.
BARIGOULE (A LA) -- Some
(À LA) authors of cookery
Sorne authors cookery books
say that the term
terrn d barigutle, given
à la barigoule, given to stutfed
stuffed artichokes,
is derived from the name mushroom which is used in
na me of the mushroom
the south-east of France
south-east of France for filling artichokes.
BAR-LE-DUC -- Town in Lorraine which
BAR-LE-DUC which is
is famous for its
redcurrant jams.
redcurrant

BARLEY. ORGE
BARLEY; oRGE-- One of of the most ancient cultivated cereals,
ancient cultivated
which still exists in its original form on the shores of
original forrn of the Red
and Caspian Seas. Seas. Barnacles
Barley grain is is poorer in gluten than wheat, and its flour
does not forrn
form an elastic
elastic paste when forrnedformed with water. It is
therefore not
therefore suitable as
not suitable an ingredient
as an ingredient for for bread.
bread. Barley regions of
regions of France, for example,
France, for flie, bassin, jamble
example, flie, jamble andand
which is
bread, which is generally mixed with with wheat (once(once aa staple arapède.
arapide.
food forfor agricultural labourers), is rarely made
is rarely made nowadays. ts flesh is rather tough and is eaten
1Its eaten raw, or with vinaigrette
It has good
good keeping
keeping qualities but is difficult to digest. dressing. Small limpets can
dressing. be prepared like mussels, while
can be
A barley
A barley infusion (barley water)
infusion (barley water) waswzn one one ofof the
the most the large ones are grilled, or
butter and grilled,
are often brushed with butter'
popular medicines
medicines prescribed by Hippocrates. Hippocrates. Barley water l'amiricaine, en
prepared àd l'américaine, matelote, etc.
en mate/ote, etc.
is refreshing and
is and emollient.
emollient. To To prepare it, it, wash
wash 20 20 g. (I!
g. (l-! BARNACL,E GOOSE.
BARNACLE GOOSE. BARNAcI{E, BERNACLE -- Bird
BARNACHE, BERNACLE Bird of
tablespoons, 2 tablespoons) pearl barley, and boil in in 1I litre greyleg goose.
passage resembling the greyleg
passage It isis also
goose. It also called
called oie-
(1|i pints, generous quart) water
(1 water until cooked. Leave to stand marine (sea goose) in France.
marine
for aa short time,
for time, strain,
strain, and
and press well with the back
well with back of a Their flesh
Barnacle geese winter on the coasts of Europe. Their
Barnacle
wooden spoon.
spoon. is edible
is but indigestible. Preparation
edible but Preparation isis the
the same
same asas for
slightly laxative, is made in the propor-
A tisane, which is slightly bustard (q.v.).
tion of 1I to 2 tablespoons
tablespoons barley water to to 1I litre (scant quart,
generous
generous quart) water. This tisane
water. This tisane isis beneficial in in feverish
feverish BARON -- This is the French French name of joint of
of a large joint of mutton
conditions.
conditions. comprising the
comprising the sadd and the
le and
saddle two legs.
the two The term
legs. The term is is also
Barley is used in cookery in the form of hulled barley and applied toto lamb.
pearl barley,
pearl mainly used
barley, mainly used for for soups, creams, porridge
soups, creams, porridge In England, it is only used for a large piece piece of beef:
beef : a baron
(bouillie), and
(bouillie), and as garnish for
as garnish for ragoûts (see MUTTON,
ragoitts (see of beef, or double sirloin. In U.S.A. U.S.A. the term is used used mostly
Ragoitt
Ragoût of of mutton with barley). hindquarters (both legs and both loins) oflamb.
for the hindquarters of lamb.
flakes and
Barley flakes and barley flour are
barley flour are used
used to to lighten
lighten cereal anecdote is
The following anecdote about baron
is told about baron or sirloin of of
Artificially germinated
diets. Artificially germinated barley producesproduces malt (q.v.). beef. King Henry VIII, who was aa hearty eater, was fond fond of
Barley sugar
Barley sugar (confection). SUCRE - Cook 250
D'oRGE -Cook
sucRE D'ORGE 250 g. roast beef. One day, delighted by the sight of aa double loin
oz.,l|
(9 oz., li cups) hulled barley in 5 litres (4-! (4| quarts, 5-! 5] quarts) him, he
set before him, he conferred knighthood upon it. it. The noble
for 5 hours.
water for hours. Strain
Strain the liquid (which resembles white
the liquid bestowed on
title bestowed this piece of beef has
on this has been sanctioned by
jelly) and
jelly) and decant.
decant. Add Add sorne
some sugar, previously cooked
sugar, previously cooked to custom, andand the cut is known to this day
is known day as sirloin or baron
as sirloin
(l10"C., 230°F.)
soufr6 degree (110°C.,
soufflé 230"F.) to to this liquid, and cook until until of beef.
sugar reaches
sugar reaches crack degree (150°C., (150"C., 302°F.).
302"F.). PourPour onto an The sirloin is
The sirloin is generally prepared as as aa roast,
roast, and
and some-
oiled marble slab (or oiled metal sheet) and when it begins to times cooked on aa spit. In
times In England, where
where the dish is
the dish is much
cool, cut into long strips strips and twist. esteemed, it it isis served with Yorkshire
served with pudding, which
Yorkshire pudding, which is
This is the original method of making barley sugar sticks. from batter
made from
made batter cooked
cooked in in the
the dripping pan pan under
under the
They are now made from
are now from drawn
drawn sugar. joint.
roasting joint.
Consomm6 with pearl barley. CONsOMMÉ
Consommé coNsourrd À prnrf -
r'oRcE PERLÉ-
A L'ORGE Barons of
Barons of mutton
mutton or or lamb
lamb areare also
also roasted, garnished
roasted, garnished
Wash 100 lN g. (4 oz., generous -!] cup) pearl barley
oz.,generous barley in warrn
warm water with vegetabJes;
vegetables; or they can be served with their their own gravy,
add it to
and add to 2-! (4* pints,
litres (4-!
2+ litres pints, 5-!5| pints)
pints) consommé
consomm6 (meat and garnished with
and with watercress.
stock). Add aa stalk of celery, and simmer slowly for 2 hours. BARQLIETTES -- Oval
BARQUETTES tartlet shells
Oval tartlet with various
filled with
shells filled
Cream of barley soup -- See See SOUPS
SOUPS AND BROTHS. compositions before
compositions before cooking.
cooking. TheyThey can can be be baked
baked blind
Hulled barley
Hulled barley broth. nfcocrroN D'ORGE
broth. DÉCOCTION D'oRcE MONDÉMoNDf -- Wash (empty) and and then
then filled.
100 g. (4 oz.,
g. (4 oz., generous -!* cup) hulled hulled barley in warm warm water, hors-d'euvre (q.v.) or aa
Barquettes are also used for aa small hors-d'œuvre
Barquettes
and soak
and soak in 3| litres
in 3-! litres (3(3 quarts, 7-! 7| pints)
pints) cold
cold water for for an small e ntr de. (For more sweet
small entrée. b ar que t t e s, see
sw eet barquettes, see TTARTLETS.
ARTLETS.))
hour. Add 25 g. g. (4
@ teaspoons)
teaspoons) salt, 2 carrots, 1 onion studded
barquettes 1.
Apricot barquettes I. BARQUETTES
sAReuerrEs AUX ABRrcors -- Make
AUx ABRICOTS
with aa clove, 44leeks and 2 stalks celery.
leeks and Flaky pastry (see DOUGH)
Flaky DOUGH) with 250 250 g.
g. (9(9 oz., 2*2f cups) sieved
sieved
Simmer veryvery slowly
slowly for for 33 hours,
hours, and and strain.
strain. This
This barley flour, scant teaspoon salt, 21 2| teaspoons sugar, 1I egg yolk, 150
broth is is most refreshing.
g. (5 oz., generous1cuP)
generous I cup) butter and and 1I dl. (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant
Mutton broth with barley barley -- SeeSee SOUPS
SOUPS AND BROTHS, 1l cup) water.
Mutton broth. "rrp) thickness of 3 to 4 mm. (t
out the paste to aa thickness
Roll out ($ inch) cut
BARNACLE. suRNrcrs -- Common
BARNACLE. BERNICLE Common name for the
name for the limpet, out with aa fluted
out with fluted oval pastry-cutter and
oval pastry-cutter and lineline boat-shaped
boat-shaped
the mollusc with the conical shell that attaches itselfto
itself to rocks tartlet
tarti et tins with the
tins with the ovals.
ovals. Prick the the bottom of the to
the paste to
on the seashore. It is
on is known
known byby various names in in ditferent
different rising du
prevent it rising during baking. Sprinkle with
ring baking. with fine
fine sugar.

85
BARREL

Making
Making barque ttes (Inr
barquettes (Larousse)
o us s e)

Stone and
Stone and quarter
quarter fresh apricots, and
fresh apricots, arrange in
and arrange in the (49|
(49t gallons, gallons), in
62 gallons),
gallons, 62 in Cognac about 205 205 litres
litres (45
tartlets, side down. Bake
tartlets, skin side Bake in a moderate oyen (180oC.,
moderate oven (180°C., gallons, 56 gallons), in Mdcon about 213 litres (47 gallons,
Mâcon about gaJlons,
350oF., Gas Mark
350°F., Gas Mark 4) 4) for about
about 2020 minutes.
minutes. Take thethe tartlets
tartlets 58t gallons), and in Nantes, 2l0litres
58| 210 litres (46 gallons, 57t gal-
571 gal-
out of
of the
the tins
tins and cool them them on a wire cake tray. Spoon Spoon lons).
Ions).
apricot jam
apricot jam into
into them.
them. Break
Break thethe apricot stones,
stones, blanch
blanch thethe
-
BARROT - French ivord for a
word for small barrel
a small barrel containing
containing
kernels, and put two
kernels, and ha Ives on
two halves on each tartlet.
tarti et.
anchovies; term applies only to anchovy barrels.
anchovies; the term
Apricd barquettes II. sA,neuETrES
Apricot barquettes BARQUETIES Arrx ABRICOTS -- As in
AUX ABRrcors
preceding
preceding recipe, using puff
recipe, using puff pastry instead of flaky pastry.
pastry instead pastry. Commune in
BARSAC -- Commune has given
in the Gironde that has given its
Apricot barquettes A
Apricot barquettes à I'ancienne. BARQUElTES Aux
l'ancienne. BAReTJETTES AUX ABRJ-
ABRI- name to a fine white
name white Bordeaux
Bordeaux wine. Barsac has the right to
Barsac has
cors
COTS A L'ANCIENNE -
À L'ANcIENM - Fill
Fill flaky pastry tartlets with vanilla-
pastry tartlets vanilla- the appellatrbn Sauternes. (See BORDEALIX.)
appellation Sauternes. BORDEAUX.)
flavoured
flavoured .Ba tter cream
Butter (see CREAMS).
cream (see Decorate with
CREAMS). Decorate with halves
halves
BASELLA
BASELLA flndian spinach). BASELLE -- Edible plant, native
(lndian spinach).
of
of blanched
blanched almonds and crvstallised
almonds and crystallised cherries.
cherries.
of
of tropical countries, cultivated in some
countries, cultivated of France. It
sorne parts of
is prepared in the
is prepared the same way as spinach.
spinach.
BASIL. BASILIC -- Plant
BASIL. BAsILtc cultivated in
Plant cultivated gardens for the sake of
in gardens
its fragrance.
fragrance. There
There are several
several varieties: sweet basil,
varieties: sweet basil, the
leaves of
leaves which are
ofwhich are dried
dried and
and used
used as
as a condiment
condiment in cookery;
cookery;
monk's
monk 's basil,
basil, which can
can be
be similarly preserved; and bush
and, bush
bas il, which is
Dcstl, often grown
is often grown asas a herb. It'is
a pot herb. used in
Itis used
Provenca, together with
Provence, together garlic, for
with garlic, flavouring pistou,
for flavornng pistou, a
popular soup in
popular soup in this
this region.
Basil was
Basil once considered
was once royal plant;
considered aa royal plant; only
only the
the soverergn
soverelgn
(basileus) could cut it, and even
(basilats) then only with a golden
ev en then
sickle. The plant has now
plant has come into common
now come common use.use.

Basil

Savoury
Savoury barquettes
barquettes

BARREL.
BARREL. BARILBARIL -- Small cask of
Small cask of variable
variable capacity,
capacity, usually
usually
72 litres (15f
72 litres gallons, l9it
(l5~ gallons, 19i gallons)
gallons) used
used as container for
as aa container for
brandy, vinegar,
brandy, vinegar, oil, anchovies, herrings
oil, anchovies, herrings or other fish,
or other fish, olives,
olives,
etc. A
etc. barrel of
A barrel wine in
of wine in Britain amounts to
Britain amounts to ll5
115 litres
litres (25
(25
gallons, 3l
gallons, gallons), in
31 gallons), in Tuscany
Tuscany 2020 litres (41 gallons,
litres (4f gallons, 5f 5t
gallons).
gallons).
BARRIQUE -- Large
BARRIQUE cask or
Large cask or barrel used for
barrel used for transporting
transporting BASQUAISE (A
BASQUAISE (À LA) Garnish for
LA) -- Garnish for large cuts of
large cuts of meat
meat
liquids
liquids in France. Its
in France. Its capacity varies in
capacity varies in different regions. In
different regions. In composed of
composed offried cèpes andAnna
fried cCpes and Anna potatoesin dariole moulds
potatoes in dariole moulds
Bordeaux
Bordeaux and and in
in the south of
the south France itit is
of France is about
about 225litres
225 litres sprinkled with
sprinkled with chopped
chopped Bayonne
Bayonne ham.
ham.

86
86
 BASS
BASS

BAS-ROND -- Term
BAS-ROND Term incorrectly
incorrectly used in sorne
used in cookery books
some cookery books Cut the
Cut the bass
bassintointo unifonn
uniform pieces. pieces. Cook Cookasasdescribed
described ininthe the
instead of
instead of baron (q.v.).
baron (q.v.). recipe for
recipe for Curried
Curuied fillets
fillets of brill(see
ofbrill BRILL).
(see BRILL).
BASS. BAR This fish,
sAR -- This fish, which
which isis also
Dugl6r6. BAR
Bass Dugléré.
Bass oucr,6nf- - Scale
nen DUGLÉRÉ Scale aabass weighingabout
bass weighing about
BASS. also called
called sea
sea dace,
dace, sea wolf
sea wolf (1* lb.). Cut
g.(li-Ib.).
or sea perch abounds
sea perch abounds in in the Meditgrranean. ItIt isis also
the Mediterranean.
750 g.
750 Cut intointopieces
pieces of ofequal
equal size. Meltsorne
size. Melt butter
some butter
or found,
also found,
in srnaller inaasauté
in pan, and
saut6 pan, andadd add11tablespoon
tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion,44peeled,
peeled,
in smaller numbers,
numbers, in in the Atlantic Ocean.
the Atlantic Ocean. Bass does not
Bass does not
normally go go beyond seeded and chopped tomatoes,
seededandchopped tomatoes,1Itablespoon coarselychopped
tablespoon coarselychopped
nonnally beyond the the English
English Channel,
Channel, and rarely pene-
and rarely pene-
parsley, aasprig
parsley, sprig of of thyrne, quarter of
thyme, quarter of aabay
bayleaf,leaf,and
andaapinch pinch
trates into
trates into the
the Baltic.
Baltic. .
Two species known: the ofofgrated garlic. Put
grated garlic. Put the the bass
bass on on this foundation,season,
thisfoundation, season, and and
Two species areare known: the common
common bass wolf) on
(sea wolf)
bass (sea on
the Mediterranean
Mediterranean coast, coast, and and striped
moisten with
moisten with It 1+dl. pint, i3cup)
dl.(t$ pint, cup) dry dry white
white wine. Bring toto
wine. Bring
the striped bass.
Dass. TheThe common
common
Dass is is seen
seen aa great
great deal
deal in in French
French markets, the boil, coyer
the boil, cover the pan, and
the pan, transfer itit to
and transfer to the
theoyen,
oven,cooking
cooking
bass markets, and and isis recog-
recog-
nisable by its silvery,
by its grey-blue back
silvery, grey-blue
for 12
for to 1515 minutes.
12 to minutes. Drain Drain the piecesof
the pieces of bass
bassand arrange
and arrange
nisable back and and white
white belly.
belly. The
The
bass of of the U.S.A., while
the U.S.A., while not
them on
them on aa dish
dish in in the
theshape
shape of of the fish.
the fish.
bass not exactly
exactly thethe sa prepared
me, isis prepared
same,
in the
the same Remove the
Remove the thyme
thyme and and baybay leafleaf fromfrom the pan, add
thepan, add 60 60 g.g.
in way. Sorne
same way. gastronomes do
Some gastronomes do not
not admit
admit thatthat the the
flesh of of the bass particular delicacy,
any particular
(2! oz.,
(2t oz., 1* cup) butter and
cup) butter tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons)
and 22 tablespoons tablespoons)
flesh bass has any but many
delicacy, but many people
people
like it.
like it. VeloutC sauce
Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) made
(see SAUCE) made of of fish
fish stock.
stock. PourPour the the
prepare. Clean
To prepare. Clean the fish through
the fish through the gills and
the gills and through
through aa
sauce over
sauce over the fish and
the fish and sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped parsley.
chopped parsley.
To
light incision
incision.made Alternatively, instead
Alternatively, instead ofusing
of using veloutévelouti sauce,
sauce, thicken
thicken with with aa
light made on on the
the belly. Do not
belly. Do not scale
scale the
the bass
bass ifif itit isis
to be poached, but scale
be poached, it, without
scale it, without breaking
breaking the skin, if
the skin, if itit isis
tablespoon of
tablespoon of kneaded
kneaded butter, butter, or with j tablespoon
or with t tablespoon Bour flour
to be
be braised, fried or
braised, fried or grilled.
grilled. Wash
Wash andand dry
dry the
mixed with
mixed with 22 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) water; water; thisthis last
last isis
to the fish.
fish.
called àdlameuniire.
caUed la meunière.
Make aa few light incisions on
few light on the
the fleshy part of
fleshy part of the
the back,
back,
Fillets of
Fillets of bass.
bass. FILETS
FrLErs DE BAR -- Bass
DE BAR Bass isis notnot often
often prepared
prepared
slit itit along
along the
the backbone, or or cut into unifonn-sized
cut into uniform-sized pieces;
pieces;
proceed according to in fillets,
in but when
fillets, but when this this method
method isis adopted,adopted, the the fillets
fillets should
should
proceed to the
the recipe
recipe cbosen
chosen..
be skinned and
be skinned and weilwell trimmed.
trimmed. Ali All the the recipes
recipes givengiven forfor whole
whole
bass,
bass, as well as
as weil as those
those givengiven forfor bream
bream (U.S. (U.S. porgyporgy or or scup),
scup),
mullet or
muilet or river trout,
river trou t, can
can bebe applied
applied to to fillets
fillets ofof bass.
bass.So So cancan
recipes
recipes given
given for for fresh
fresh cod,cod, whiting,
whiting, mackerel
mackerel and, and, generally,
generally,
for ail
for all sea fish.
sea fish.
Fried bass.
Fried bass. BARBAR FRITFRrr -- ThisThis method
method isis suitable suitable for for small-
small-
size
size bass.
bass. Scale
Scale thethe fish,
fish, make
make aa few few slits,
slits, and
and soak
soak itit inin salted
salted
milk which
milk which has has beenbeen boiled
boiled andand allowed
allowed to to get
get cold
cold.. Dredge
Dredge
Bass with flour and
with Bour and deep-fry
deep-fry in in sizzling
sizzling oil. oil.
Drain, dry,
Drain, dry, sprinkle
sprinkle with with fine salt, and
fine salt, and garnisb
garnish witbwith fried
fried
Boiled or
Boiled or poacbed
poached bass with various
bass with various sauces.
sauoes. BAR BourLLr
BAR BOUILLI parsley and
parsley slices of
and slices of lemon
lemon..
pocn6 - Put the bass
ou pocHÉ into Court-bouillon III (see (see COURT-
OU - When
When no no small
small bassbass are are available,
available, large large fish,
fish, eut
cut into
into slices
slices
BOUILLON).
BOUILLON). As soon as it boils, draw the pan to to the edge of
edge of or steaks,
or steaks, can can be be prepared
prepared in in the
the samesame way.way.
the burner, and poach, simmering
simmering lightly. Drain the bass, and and Bass
Bass au gratin BAR
au gratin. BAR AU GRATTN -- This
AU GRATIN This metbod
method isis mostly
mostly
garnish with fresh parsley.
garnish applied
applied to fillets of
to fillets of bass.
bass. Proceed
Proceed as as described
described in in the
the recipe
recipe
Serve with melted butter, or with Hollandaise
Serve Hollandaise sauce or or any
any for Sole
for Sole au gratin (see
au gratin (see SOLE).
SOLE).
other sauce recommended
recommended for boiled fisb fish (see SAUCE).
(see SAUCE).
Boiled
Boiled bass,
bass, like ail poached fish,
all poached fish, is
is served
served withwith steamed
or boiled potatoes.
Braised bass witbwith various sauces
sauoes and
and garnisbes.
garnishes. BAR nRArsf
sAR BRAISÉ
-- Clean the bass, and spread the inside
bas s, and inside with aa large piece of
butter which
which hashas been
been kneaded
kneaded withwith chopped
chopped parsley
parsley and
and
seasoned with salt and pepper. pepper. Season
Season the outside. Put
thJoutside. pui it in
in
a fish kettle on a foundation of sbredded shredded carrots and and on ions
onions
lightly
Iightly fried in butter. Add Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Moisten
with
with dry
dry white wine; for a bass weighing 1I kg. (2i (2f lb.) use 33 dl.
Double
Double grill
grill for
for small
small fish
(}
(t pint,
pint, lf cups) wine.
li cups) wine. Sprinkle
Sprinkle withwith 22 tablespoons
tablespoons (3
fish

tablespoons) melted butter. butter. Bring to to the boil, then transfer Grilled bassbass witb
with various
various sauces.
sauces. BAR cRrr,r"6 -- This
sAR GRILLÉ This method
method
the fish kettle
the kettle to the oyen uncoverecl, for 25
oven and cook, uncovered, 25 to
to 30
30 is applied to to bass
bass ofof medium size. size. Scale
Scale the
the fish,
fish, make
make aa few
few
minutes, basting
minutes, basting frequently.
frequently. . shallow incisions, season, season, dredge
dredge withwith flour,
flour, brush
brush with
with oiloil
Drain
Drain the
the bass and arrange
arrange on a dish. Reduce the braising braising or
or melted
melted butter,
butter, and
and grill
grill on
on aa moderate
moderate heat.
heat.
liquor, add butter, and pour over the fish. fish. Add the gamish.
garnish. Turn the the bass
bass once
once during
during cooking,
cooking, andand baste
baste withwith oi!
oil or
or
Serve with Espagnole sauce (made with fish stock) or with
Serve melted
melted butter from from time
time to
to time.
time.
Velouté (see
Velouti SAUCE). All
(see SAUCE). AlI gamishes recommended for
garnishes recommended Gamish
Garnish with with fresh
fresh parsley,
parsley, and and surround
surround witb with slices
slices of
of
large braised fish fish are suitable for bass (see (see BRILL,
BRILL, TUR- decoratively
decoratively eut cut lemon.
lemon. Serve
Serve with with Maitre
Malte d'hôtel
dh\tel buller,
butter,
BOT, SALMON).
SALMON). Anchovy buller,
butter, Ravigote
Ravigote buller (see BUTTER),
butter (see BUTTER), or or one
one ofof
bass with
Cold bass witbvarious
various sauces. BAR FRorD FROID - Cook the fish,
- fish, the special
special sauces
sauces recommended
recommended for for grilled
grilled fish
fish..
whole or in large
whole Court-bouillon III (see
large pieces, in Court-bouillon (see COURT-
COURT- Bass ài la
Bass la livornaise. nln ÀA LA
livornaise. BAR LrvoRNAnn -- This
LA LlVORNAISE This metbod
method isis
BOUILLOI$.
BOUILLON). Allow Allow to cool in
to cool in the Iiquor. Drain,
the liquor. Drain, and suitable for for small-size
small-size bass.
bass. Scale
Scale 44 bass,
bass, season,
season, and and put
put
garnish with fresh parsley.
garnish parsley. Serve
Serve with aa cold sauce.
sauce. them in
them in aa well-buttered
well-buttered or or oiled
oiled fireproof
fireproof dish
dish onon aa foundation
foundation
Cold bass
bass can also be prepared by following one one of the consisting of dl. (1
of 22 dl. $ pin t, scant
pint, scant cup)
cup) Tomato
Tomato fondue
fon&te (see(see
recipes given
recipes given for salmon and salmon trout. Cooked Cookd,in in court- FONDUE)
FONDUE) mixed mixed withwith plenty
plenty of of chopped
chopped on ion, and
onion, and
bouillon,it
bouillon, it can
can also
also bebe served
served with
with the garnishes
garnishes usedused for
for large flavoured with aa pinch pinch ofof pounded garlic.
cold fish,
cold fish, such
su ch as hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs,
eggs, stuffed artichoke
articboke hearts,
hearts, Scatter breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs on on top,
top, sprinkle
sprinkle with
with oil,
oil, and
and cook
cook
lettuce hearts,
lettuce hearts, macidoines
macédoines of of vegetables,
vegetables, etc.etc. in the
in the oyen
oven for for about
about 15 15 minutes.
minutes. Sprinkle
Sprinkle withwith chopped
chopped
Curied bass ià I'indienne.
Curried bass l'indienne. BAR AU AU cuRRrE.
CURRIE, A À r'lNorENNs
L'INDIENNE -
- 1?arsley
parsley before
before serving.
serving.

87
8',1
BASTE
BASTE

Bass Ià la
Bass la meunibre.
meUllière. sAR LA l{suminr
À rA
BAR A MEUNIÈRE- Suitable for
- Suitable for small-
5mall- BÂTONNETS or
BATONhIETS or BATONS
BÂTONS - VariousVarious preparations
preparations shaped
shaped
bass. Scale them,
size bass. make a few
them, make Incisions, sprinkle with
few incisions, with the form of
in the of little
little sticks.
sticks.
flour,
/lour, and cook in
and cook in a frying
frying pan
pan in
in butter.
butter. Use
Use an oval-shaped
ovaJ-shaped A}nond BÂTONNETS ALlx
bâtonnets. sAroNNETs
Almond bfltonnets. AMANDES -- Fancy
AUX AMANDES Fancy
pan, if
pan, if possible.
possible. (cookies), which come into
biscuits (cookies),
biscuits the category of
into the of petits
petits
When the
When the fish
fish is cooked and golden on both
is cooked both sides, place
place fours.
fours.
on aa dish sprinkle with
dish and sprinkle with chopped
chopped parsley
parsley and a few
few drops
drops Pound 250
Pound 250 e.g. O oz., l|
(9 oz., li cups)
cups) blanched almonds in
blanched almonds in a mortar
mortar
of lemon juice.
of lemon juice. with 250
250 g.g. (9 oz., generous
(9 oz., generous cup)cup) fine
hne sugar. into a bowl
sugar. Turn into bowl
butter left in
Heat the butter pan until it browns,
in the pan browns, adding
adding and mix with f3 egg whites and 11 dl. (6
mix witn scant ft
tablespoons, scant
(6 tablespoons,
more if
more necessary, and pour it over the
if necessary, Bass prepared
the fish. Bass prepared cup) rum. thoroughly into a smooth
Blend thoroughly
rum. Blend smooth paste and roll
paste and roI! out
this way may
in this be served with various
may be various garnishes
garnishes (see
(sec SOLE,
SOLE, 22 cm. Q(l inch)
inch) thick
thick onon a marble siab lightly
marble slab lightly dusted with flour.
dusted with fiOUL
meunière).
Sole meuniire). Cut paste into strips 8 cm. (3 inches)
the paste
Cut the inches) wide, and cut eut the
the
Bass Ià la portugaise
Bass portugaise I. 1. n.m
BAR A LA ponrucAlsE
,\ L,c. PORTUGAISE - Scale a bass
- Scale bass strips into
strips into bdtonnets,2
bâtonnets, 2 cm. cm. (|(i inch) wide.wide. Dip them into
Dip them into
300-400 g. (t
weighing about 300-400
weighing lb.). Slit lightly
(ilb.). lightly along
along the back, beaten egg white then into crystallised sugar. Brush
lightly beaten
season, and put into a butteredbuttered pan. pan. baking trays with wilh butter, sprinkle with flour, and bake the
butter, sprinkle the
quantities of white
Boil equal quantities white wine and concentrated fish bâtonnets in a moderate oven
bdtonnets oyen (180'C., 350°F., Gas Mark 4).
(I80°e., 350'F.,
afume/ (q.v.),
stock down to afumet (q.v.), pour
pour overover the fish, and cook in Bfltom
BâtollS with vanilla
vallilla icing. BÂTONS cr,lcfs
king. rAroNs GLACÉS A LA vlmns
,\ rn VANILLE - -
the covered pan pan for minutes. Drain the
15 minutes.
for 15 the bass, put in in a Pound 250 g. (9 o2.,lfr
Pound cups) blanched almonds with 250 g.
OZ., li cups) g.
fireproof surround with a border
fueproof dish, and surround border of thick Tomato (9 oz., generous
(9 generous cup) cup) fine sugar in a mortar.
fine sugar Turn into a basin
mortar. Turn basm
fondue FONDUE). Boil
(see FONDUE).
fondue (sec Boil down
down the the pan juices,
juices, add
add 33 and add 33 egg
and egg whites
whites andand f1teaspoon vanilla extract.
teaspoon vanilla Blend the
ex tract. Blend
(scant IJ cup)
tablespoons (scant
tablespoons Velouté sauce (see SAUCE)
cup) Veloutd SAUCE) based mixture thoroughly and roll out on a lightly lightly floured
ftoured marble
marble
fJsh stock and some
on fish butter, and pour
sorne butter, pour it over
over the bass. slab until the paste is I1 cm. <i (} nch) thick and aboutabout 15 cm. (6
15 cm' (6
Glazn in
Glaze in a very hot
a very oyen, and
hot oven, and sprinkle with with chopped widc. Coat with
inches) wide.
inches) with a vanilla-/lavoured Royal
a layer of vanilla-flavoured Royal
parsley before serving.
serving. icing (seeICING).
icing (see ICING). Cut into sticks a
sticks 22 cm. (f, inch) wide'
wide. Brush
Brush aa
Bass ài la portugaise
portugaise Il.II. sAR
BAR A À L.c, ponrucAlsE -- Proceed
LA PORTCGAISE Proceed as baking tray with melted
baking melted butter, sprinkle with flour,
butter, sprinkle ftour, and bake
bake
described for
described for Bass Dugléré (but
Bass Dugliri leaving the
(but leaving the fish
fish whole). the bâtons· in a moderate oven
thebdtons.iqamoderate oyen (180'C., 350"F., Gas Mark 4).
(180°e., 350oF.,
Place in a fireproof dish. Boil down the pan juices, to which Chocolate bâtonnets. sAroNNErs
Chocolate bfltonnets. AU cHocot,lr
BÂTONNETS AU CHOCOLAT -- Proceed
some butter
sorne butter has been added, pour
has been ovcr the
pour over the fish, sprinkle
fish, sprinkle as in the recipe for Almond
recipe for g. (9 oz.,
bdtonnets, using 250 g.
Almond bâtonne/s, oz., li ll
with
with breadcrumbs, and glaze in a very
and glaze very hot
hot oven.
oyen. cups) almonds, 250 g. (9 OZ.,
oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 200 g.
g.
i
Bass à la provençale. san
la provengale. BAR A ,\ rn pnowNqALE - Scale the
LA PROVENÇALE - (7
(7 oz.,lf
OZ., 11 cups)
cups) coc<ia, 25 g.,
cocoa, 25 (l o2.,2
g., (1 tablespoons) vanilla-
OZ., 2 tablespoons)
bass, make aa few
bass, few shallow
shallow slits,
slits, dredge
dredge withwith flour,
flour, andand fry flavoured
/lavoured sugar, 3 egg whites.
whites.
briskly in oiLoil. CumiD bfitonnets.
Cumin bâtonnets. sAroNl.IETs
S,\TONNETS AU cUMIN -- Add
AU CUMIN cumin to
Add cumin
When cooked and
When and golden brown on sides, put
on both sides, put the Short pastry II (see DOUGH), when
paslry 1/ when rolling itit out. Cut into
mto
fish in
fish in aa fireproof dish, cover
fireproof dish, cover withwfth Provengale
Provençale sauce sauce (see small sticks,
small roll them,
sticks, roll them, place
place on on aa buttered
buttered baking tray,
SAUCE), sprinkle with breadcrumbs
sprinkle with brcadcrumbs and oil, and
and oil, and brown egg, and bake in a moderately hot oyen
brush with egg, oven (200'C.,
(200°C.,
in aa hot
hot oyen
oven forfor aa few
few minutes. 400'F.,
400 ü
F., Gas Mark 6).
SprinkJe with chopped parsley
Sprinkle with parsley before serving.serving.
Strffed braised
Stuffed braised bass variou garnishes.
with variollS
bass with garnishes. BAR BAR BRAIS6
BRAISÉ
Hazelnut bâtonnets.
Hazelnut sAroNNETs AUX
bfltonnets. BÂTONNETS Aux AVELINES
AvELINES - These -
are
are made
made inin the
the same way as
same way as Almond biltunnets, replacing
Almond bâtonnets,
FARCI - Stuff aa bass
FARcr - Stuff with one
bass with one of of the
the special
special forcemeats
forcemeats
almonds with
almonds haze/nuts which
with hazelnuts been blanched
have been
which have and
blanched and
recommended for for large fish. Braise
large fish. Braise it it as
as described
described aabove.
bove.
dried in
dried in the oven. Flavour the
the oyen. with kirsch.
the mixture with
BASTE. JUTER -- To pour roasting
To pour or braising
roasting or stock over
braising stock bfitom. BÂTONS
Jacob's bâtons.
Jacob's sAroNs DE JAcoB -- Cakes
DE JACOB made from
Cakes made
in order to
aa joint in to keep it moist during cooking. Chou
Chou pasœ
paste (see DOUGH) in the shape of little hollow sticks
(see DOUGH)
filled with French pastry cream, and coated on top with sugar
French pastry sugar
BAT·- culinary term for tail offish.
BAT - French culinary of fish. The length offish
of fish
degree (lsoac.,
cooked to crack dcgree (150'C., 302
302'F.).
ü
ECLAIR.)
F.). (See ÉCLAIR.)
from eye
is measured from
is to tail.
eye to
Royal bâtons
Royal (hot hors-d'oeuvre).
bitons (hot hors-d'oeuwe). BÂTONS RoYALrx -- Roll
sAroNs ROYAUX
BAT. CHAUVE-SOURIS
BAT. cn,c,uvE-souRrs -- Small provided with
mammal provided
Small mammal with of shortcrust paste and cut
out aa piece of
out rectangles.
cut into small rectangles.
membranous wings
membranous enable itit to
which enable
wings which to /ly.
fly. The
The meat
meat is Fill the
Fill middle of each
the middle each with Chicken and partridge
with Chicken partridge force-
force-
esteemcd in certain oriental countries, notably
esteemed in in China.
notably in meat (see FORCEMEAT). Roll each
(see FORCEMEAT). ends
each piece, sealing the ends
well. Deep-fry in smoking
weil. fried parsley.
smoking hot fat. Garnish with fried
BA-T A-CLk"ll -- Pastry dessert
BA-TA-CLAN dessert said to bave
said to have been
been invented
by Lacam,
by Lacam, thethe celebrated
celebrated Parisian pastry-cook. It
Parisian pastry-cook. It isis still
still BATTERS FOR FOR FRYING.
FRYING. PÂTÉ,\ pArs A FRIRE
rnns -- Fryiog batter 1I
Frying balter
made
made in in high-c1ass
high-class Paris
Paris cake
cake shops.
shops. (Car0me's recipe) -- 'Sift
(Carème's 'Sift 350
350 g. (12 OZ.,
g. (12 cups) flour
o2.,33 cups) into aa
flour into
Pound 250 g. (9
250 g. oz.,l|
(9 oz., li cups) freshly blanched almonds in
blanched almonds in bowl, mix
bowl, mix with sligbtly
slightly warmed
warmed water in in which
which 50 50 g. (2 oz.,
g. (2 oz.,
aa mortar. Turn into
mortar. Turn into aa bowl,
bowl, aod
and add add 99 eggs, one by
eggs, one by one;one; butter has
;\-* cup) butter has been melted. Stir
been me/ted. to aa soft
Stir to paste, free
soft paste, from
free from
mix weil.
mix Add 375
well. Add g. (13
375 g. oz.,lt
(13 oz., 11: cups) fine sugar
cups) fine sugar ftavoured
flavoured lumps. Add aa pinch of salt and 2 ta
salt and tablespoons
blespoons (3 (3 ta
tablespoons)
blespoons)
vanilla, lI dl.
with vanilla,
with (6 tabJespoons,
dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1 rum, 125
cup) rum,
* cup) 125 g.
g. brandy, stir
brandy, stir weil,
well, and fold in
and fold in 22 stiffiy
stiffiy whisked egg whites.
egg whites.
(4 oz.,
(4 o2.,11 cup)
cup) sieved flour, and
sieved /lour, mix thoroughly
and mix until quite
thoroughly until quite Use at
Use at once.'
once.'
smooth.
smooth. tr- Mix
Frying batter ll-
Frying Mix 250 250 g. g. (9 oz.,2f
(9 oz., 2! cups) flour, 1I
sifted flour,
cups) sifted
Pour into aa sballow
Pour into shallow tintin with
with fluted
fluted edges and bake
edges and bake in in aa l] dl.
oil, If dl. (i pint, t3 cup) (| pint,
dl. (t pint, seant
moderate
moderate oYen.oven. When cooked, leave
When cooked, leave toto cool,
cool, and
and coyer
cover
tablespoon oil,
tablespoon $ pint, cup) beer,
beer, 22 dl. scant
cup) warm
cup) warm water
water andand aa tablespoon
tablespoon brandy brandy intointo aa smooth
smooth
with
with vanilla
vanilla icing.
icing. pinch of of fine
fine salt. using, fold in
fold in
batter, adding aa pinch
batter, adding salt. Just
Just before using,
BATARDE -- Name
BÂTARDE to Buller
given to
Name givcn sauce JI (sec
Butter sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). stiffiy whisked
22 stiffiy whisked egg whites.
egg whites.
(for fruit
batter (for
Frying baller
Frying fruit fritters
fritters glazed
glazed in in the oven) - Mix
the oven)- Mix
BATAVIA
BAT Variety of
AVlA -- Variety of hearted
hearted lelluce in season
lettuce in in summer
season in summer
in the previous recipe,
recipe, using
using 250250 g.
batter as
the batter
the described in
as dcscribed the previous g.
or
or winter.
winter. (3 tablespoons)
(9 o2.,2|
(9 OZ., cups) sifted
2! cups) flour, 22 tablespoons
sifted flour, tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
BATEAUX - French
BATEAUX French name for china,
name for china, glass or metal
glass or metal con-
con- butter, 1+
melted butter,
melted 1+ dl. pint, t] cup)
(+ pint,
dl. (i cup) beer, dl. (t
beer, 22 dl. pint, scant
(+ pint, scant
tainers
tainers used for serving
used for cold hors-d'œuvre.
serving cold hors-d'euvre. They
They are
are usually
usually water, one
cup) water,
cup) one whole egg, 1I tablespoon
whole egg, pinch of
brandy, aa pinch
tablespoon brandy, of
boat-shaped,
boat-shaped, hence their name.
hence their name. sugar and
sugar pinch of
and aa pinch of salt.
salt.

88
88

Buffe!
Buffet set
set out
out ror formal occasion
for aa formaI occasion(Potel and Chabot.
(Potet wu! Phot. /\rico!as)
Chabot. Phof. Nicolas)
 BAVARIAN
BA CREAM
V ARIAN CREAM

After mixing, keep in a warm place to ferment. Just before

After mixing, iced water,
water, COyer with white paper, and chili
cover with chill for 2 hours
hours in the
using, whisk the batter. refrigerator, or on crushed ice.
refrigerator,
glaze fruit fritters, drain after frying, place on a
To glaze a metal To loosen tlie hbt water, wipe
dip the mould in hot
the bavarois, dipthe it
wipe it
sheet which
sheet which has been lightly
has been sprinkled with
lightly sprinkled icing sugar,
with icing dry, and turn
turn into a dish.
and set in a hot oven.
oyen. The same recipe may be used for bavarois
used for flayoured wlth
bavarois flavoured wrth
Fryiog batter (for vegetable fritters) -
Frnng The batter should
- The coffee, chocolate, (anisette,
brandies and various liqueurs (anisette,
chocolate, tea, brandies
be prepared at least an hour before use. Armagnac, Calvados,
Armagnac, Calvados, Curaçao, fine Champagne
Curagao, fine Champagne brandy,
Mix 250 g.g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour with 4 tablespoons
oz.,2f kirsch, kummel,
kummel; rum, etc.), lemon, tangerine, orange, praline
tablespoons) melted butter, 2 whole eggs, a good pinch of
(5 tablespoons) of burnt almond, hazelnuts,
hazelnuts, etc.
salt, and enough water to make not too thick aa batter. Bavarian cre am ài la
cream la cévenole.
c6venole. BAVAROIS
BAvARoIs À A LAr.l CÉVENOLE-
cfvrNors -
Frying batter (for
Frnng fish fritters) -- Put 250 g. (9 oz.,
(for meat and fisb Coat a mould with with a layer of Basic Bavarian
layer of ueam. FiII
Bavarian cream. Fill with aa
2i cups) sifted flour into aa bowl.
2| bowl. Make aa weil in the centre
well in centre mixture of
mixture of this
this cream
cream andand aa purée
pur6e of of marrons
marrons glacés,
glacds,
and put into it 4 tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) oil or melted refrigerator.
flavoured with kirsch. Chill in the refrigerator.
butter,4 (à- pint, scant 2 cups) slightly
butter, 4 dl. (* slightly warmed water, and Turn'out
Turn the bavarois
. out the onto aa dish,
bavarois onto and decorate
dish, and decorate with
salt. Mix weil
a good pinch of salt. well with a wooden
wood en spoon.
spoon. Chantilly cream
Chantilly cream (see CREAMS). Surround
(see CREAMS). Surround withwith marrons
stiffy whisked egg whites.
Just before using, fold in 4 stiffiy glacis.
glacés.
Frying batter (i
Frying (à la provengate)
provençale) --'Mix (12o2.,33 cups)
'Mix 350 g. (l20z., Bavarian cream àA la créole.
Bavarian cr6ole. BA
BAVARoIS
VAROIS ÀA LA
r,c, CRÉOLE Coatt aa
cRforn -- Coa
sieved flour, 2 egg yolks,44 tablespoons
egg yolks, tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) Aix with sweet
mould with alternate layers of
sweet almond oil and fill it with alternate of
oil, and enough
enough cold water to make make a soft paste. Add a small rum-flavoured and
rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured
pineapple-flavoured Basic Basic Bavarian
pinch of salt,
salt, and fold in 22 stiffiy
and fold stifry whisked egg egg whites. Use cream,
cream) mixed with a salpicon (q.v.) ofbananas
mixed with of bananas steeped in rum.
(Car6me's recipe).
at once.' (Carême's Turn out
Turn out onto
onto aa dish,
dish, decorate with Chantilly
decorate with Chantilly cream (see
cream (see
Batters (sweet) -- See DOUGH. CREAMS) piped through through aa pastry-bag, and and sprinkle
sprinkle with
blanched, shredded pistachio nuts.
blanched,
BAVARIAN
BA V ARIAN CREAM.
CREAM. VAROIS -- Cold sweet once known
BAvARoIs
BA
as
as fromage bavarois, the name name Carême
Car€me gives it inin his Traiti
his Traité
Bavarian cream à
Bavarian i la normande. BA slvARots
VAROIS À l.l NORMANDE
A LA NoRMANDE --
fromage Line aa mould
Line mould withwith aa layer of Calvados-flavoured
layer of Calvados-flavoured Basic
des entremets de douceur.
The name bavarois given to it by aa French chef who
bavarois was given
fill with
cream, fill
Bavarian cream, with thick
thick Apple
Apple sauce (see SAUCE)
sauce (see
gelatine which has been dissolved in water.
whisked with gelatine
whisked water.
practised his art in a stately
practised stately home in Bavaria.
Turn out
Turn out onon aa dish
dish and
and surround with apple
surround with apple quarters
This dish,
This dish, of solid
solid consistency,
consistency, should not be
should not be confused
confused
peeled, cooked
peeled, cooked in syrup, and weil Top with whipped
wbll drained. Top
liquid preparation known
with the liquid known asas the
the bavaroise (q.v.),
cream.
which used
which used to be called crème
crDme bavaroise, and, according to
culinary historians, was invented in Bavaria towards the end
culinary historians,
of the seventeenth century.
The bavarois in past days
bavarois in quite differently
was prepared quite
days was differently
from pre,sent-day
present-day methods; the mixture
mixture was bound only with
clarified
clarified isinglass, not with
with egg yolks, as used in sorne
some modern
reClpes.
recipes.

Bavarian cream,
Bavarian after Carême
cream, after Car€me

Bavarian cream
Bavarian cream au parfait amour
au parfait (CarGme). FROMAGE
amour (Carême). FRoMAGE
pARFArr AMOUR
AU PARFAIT
BAvARors AU
BAVAROIS AMoUR - 'Shred half
- 'Shred half the
the peel
peel ofof aa
lemon very finely. Boil 2 cups milk, add the the shredded
shredded lemon,
66 crushed
crushed cloves
cloves and and 225
225 g. oz., 1I cup)
(8 oz.,
g. (8 cup) sugar. Leave to
sugar. Leave to
infuse for an
infuse hour, and
an hour, and strain through aa muslin cloth cloth into aa
basin. Add
basin. Add 25 25 g. (l oz.)
g. (1 slightly warmed and
oz.) slightly clarified isin-
and clarified
glass, and
glass, and aa few
few drops
drops of of cochineal
cochineal essence. Put Put the basin
the basin
into aa bowlbowl ofof ice. AsAs soon as mixture begins to
the mixture
as the to set, fold
set, fold
in whipped cream.'
in
Bavarian cream
Bavarian cream witb with pistachio
pistachio nuts (Car0me). FROMAGE
nuts (Carême). FRoMAGE
Bavarian cream
cream mould BAVARoIS AUX
BAVAROIS AItx NOIX
NoD( VERTES 'Shell about
vERTEs -- 'Shell about 100 choice pis-
100 choice pis-
tachio nuts,
tachio pound them
nuts, pound them in in aa mortar,
mortar, and and moisten
moisten withwith aa
The following inc\ude
include severa]
several of Carême's
Car0me's recipes. little
litt le water from time time to to time to to prevent them them turning oily. oily.
Basic Bavarian
Bavarian cream. BA BAvARoIS
VAROISÀ A LA cniw-- Blend 500 g.g.
ra CRÈME Dissolve 225 225 g.g. (8 oz., 1I cup)
(8 oz., cup) sugar in in 22 cups cream. Put
cups cream. Put the
the
(18 oz.,
(18 2f cups)
oz., 2! fine sugar
cups) fine and 16
sugar and 16 egg yolks in
egg yolks in aa small
small pounded nuts into aa bowl,
nuts into bowl, and and addadd the little at
cream, aa little
the cream, at aa
sauce low heat,
pan over low
saucepan pinch of salt.
heat, adding aa pinch When the
salt. When time, stirring weiL
time, well. Leave
Leave for for an hour, and
an hour, and strain through aa
strain through
mixture isis quite
mixture quite smooth with ]I litre
moisten with
smooth moisten (If; pints,
litre (l~ fine sieve.
fine sieve.
quart) milk which has
generous quart) has been
been previously boiledboiled and
and Add 25
Add 25 g. (l oz.)
g. (1 oz.) slightly warm clarified
slightly warm clarified isinglass
isinglass which
flavoured with a vanilla bean. Add 25 g. (l oz.) gelatine
g. (1 gelatine which has
has been
been dissolved
dissolved in little water.
in aa !ittle water. Pour Pour the mixture into
the mixture into aa
has been
has been dissolved
dissolved in in cold
cold water.
water. Keep until the
stirring until
Keep stirring the mould or
mould or aa medium-sized terrine, terrine, and place on
and place crushed
on cru shed iceice
mixture isis thick
thick enough
enough to to coat the spoon;
coat the spoon; do not boil.
do not for 15
for 15 minutes.
minutes. Stir Stir weil, (with aa large
well, (with large silver
silver spoon,
spoon, if if pos-
Transfer
Transfer to aa bowl and leave to cool, frequently fanning it to sible)
sible) and stir again
and stir from time to
again from to time.
time. As As soon
soon as it begins
as it
help the process.
process. to set,
to set, stir all the
stir ail the time until aa smooth-flowing
time until smooth-flowing mixture mixture isis
As soon as the mixture
mixture begins to set,
set, fold in (lf pints,
in 1I litre (I~ achieved. Add
achieved. Add whipped
whipped cream,cream, aa httle little atat aa time, until the
time, until the
generous quart) stiffiy whipped cream
cream and
and 100 g. g. (4
(4 oz., ~ cup)
oz.,1",rp) bavarois has
bavarois has aa velvety texture.
finesugar.
fine sugar. . Keep on
Keep on crushed
crushed ice for an
ice for hour and
an hour turning
before turning
and aa half before
Pour the bavarois into a mould which has been rinsed with out onto
out onto aa dish.
dish.

89

Drtck à/'
Duck (Phot. NNicolas)
a/sacienm' (Phol.
d I'alsacienne ico/as)
BAVARIAN
BA CREAM
VARIAN CREAM

Bavarian cream
Bavarian cream made
made with fruit
fruit (Robert Carrier)
Carrier)

90
 BAYONNE
BAYONNE

Bavarian
Bavarian cream cream aux roses roses (Car0me).
(Carême). FRoMAGE FROMAGE BAVARoISBA VAROIS
Aux
AUX ROSES -- 'Strip the
RosBs petaIs ofl
the petals off about 30 freshly freshly picked
roses, and
roses, and put put them,
them,with with a pinch of of cochineal grains, into
225 g.
225 g. (8 oz., I1 cup)
(8 oz., clarified boiling
cup) clarified boiling sugarsugar syrup. Cover, Coyer, and
when itit has
when become just
has become just warm, add add 25 25 g.g. (l
(l oz.) isinglass.
isinglass.
Strain the
Strain mixture through muslin into a bowl, and when it
the mixture
begins to set, fold in whipped cream.'
begins
Bavarian fruit cream. BAVARoIs
Bavarian BAVAROIS ALrx AUX FRUITS - - Put into a
bowl55 dl. (scant
bowl (scant pint,
pint, 2f 2i cups) fruitfruit pur6e,
purée, 5 dl. (scant pint, pint,2f, 2i
cups) heavy (30")
cups) heavy (30°) syrup,
syrllp, thejuice
thejuice of of31emons,
3 lemons, and and25 25 g. (l (l oz.)
gelatine which
gelatine which has has been dissolved in a little water
been dissolved water and strained
through muslin.
through
Blend well, weIl, and add I+ litre (scant pint, 2i
(scant pint, 2l cups)
cups) whipped
cream. Pour
cream. Pour into a mould mould which has been coated with sweet
almond oil (or rinsed rinsed in ice water) and and leave to set for about
l|1+ hours.
Mocha coffee Bavarian cream (Carême). (CarOme). FROMAGE
FRoMAcE BAVA- BAvA-
ROIS AU cnr6
Rors CAFÉ Mor,c,
MOKA- - 'Put 175 g. (6 oz., oz.,l| 1+ cups) mocha coffee Striped Bavarian
Striped cream
Bavarian cream
beans into a a small
small saucepan, and heat heat on on aa moderate fire, fire,
stirring constantly until
stirring constantly until they acquire aa reddish-yellow
they acquire reddish-yellow to the
to boil. Lower
the boil. Lower thethe heat and reduce
heat and reduce the cream by
the cream by one-
one-
colour. Roasting is is complete as as soon
soon as as the
the beans become third. Add 225
third. Add g. (8
225 g. oz., 1I cup)
(8 oz., cup) sieved
sieved sugar and 25
sugar and 25 g. (l oz.)
g. (1 oz.)
oily. Blend thoroughly,
isinglass. Blend
isinglass. thoroughly, strain through muslin
strain through into aa
muslin into
'Drop them into aa basin containing containing 33 cups boiling milk, basin,
basin, and place on
and place on crushed
crushed ice. When the
ice. When mixture begins
the mixture begins
coyer, and leave until the milk is just warm. Strain through
cover, through to set,
to set, fold in whipped
fold in whipped cream.
cream.
aa fine clotho
cloth. Add Add225 225 g. (8 oz., oz., 1I cup) sieved sugar and and 25 25 g. (l
g. (l
BA VAROISE -- Pleasant
BAVAROISE Pleasant beverage prepared in
beverage prepared in several ways
several ways
oz.) isinglass. Blend Blend until qui quitete smooth, and strain again. again. milk, etc.
from tea,
from tea, syrup,
syrup, milk, etc.
'When the mixture mixture begins to set, set, add whipped cream, cream, and and part of century several Bavarian
In
In the early part
the early ofthe
the eighteenth
eighteenth century several Bavarian
pour into aa mould. mould. Place on on crushed ice until fully fully set.'
set.' princes
princes sojouming
sojourning in in Paris were in
Paris were in the habit of
the habit of taking
taking tea tea
Strawberry
Strawberry Bavarian cream. cresm. BAVAROIS
BAvARoIs AUX FRAISES -- Rub
Aux FRAISES Rub Foss6s-Saint-Germain-
together at
together atthe Cafi Procope,
the Café Procope, rue rue des
des Fossés-Saint-Gennain-
2| dl.
2+ dl. (scant + ] pint, generous cup) cup) strawberry
strawberry pulp pulp through
through des-Prés (today rue
des-Pr6s (today rue de de l'Ancienne-Comédie):
I'Ancienne-Com6die): but but they
they
aa fine sieve,
sieve, and add 2+ 2| dl. (scant +I pint, generousgenerous cup) cup) heavyheavy from crystal
crystal decan-
insisted that itit should
insisted that ihould be be served
served to them from
to them decan-
syrup (30°),
(30"), the juice juice of of aa lemon,
lemon, and and 15 15 g.
g. (!(1o2.)
oz.) gelatine
gelatine ters, preferred itit sweetened with capillary
capillary syrup rather
syrup rather
ters, and
and preferred sweetened with
which
which has has beenbeen dissolved
dissolved in in aa little
little water
water and and strained
strained than
than sugar.
sugar. Tbence
Thence the the name bavaroise was
name bavaroise given tb
was given to the new
the new
through
through muslin. muslin. Add Add 2! 2+ dl.dl. (scant
(scant !I pint,pint, generous
generous cup) cup) beverage. Other
beverage. Other caféscaf6s began
began to to serve
serve it,it, simply
simply byby replacing
replacing
whipped cream cream to the the mixture. the capillary
the capillary syrup syrup withwith clarified
clarified sugar cooked toto the
sugar cooked the
Pour
Pour into into aa mould
mould and and chilI
chill onon crushed
crushed ice, ice, oror in in aa re-re-
consistency of
consistency of aa syrup,
syrup, andand adding milk.
adding milk.
frigerator. Tum
frigerator. Turn out out ontoonto aa dishdish and and surround
surround with with largelarge
Bavaroise 1I -- Mix
Bavaroise Mix together
together 22 dl. dl.(t(+ pint,
pint, scant
scantcup) very
cup) very
hulled
hulled strawberries,
strawberries, sprinkledsprinkled with with finefine sugar.
sugar. strong tea, 1I tablespoon
strong tea, tablespoon fine sugar, 1I tablespoon
fine sugar, tablespoon sugar syrup
sugar syrup
Apricot,
Apricot, peach, peach, pineapple,
pineapple, pear, raspberry and
pear, raspberry and other other yolk. Whisk until the mixture
(104"C., 220°F.)
(l04°C., 220'F.) and and an an egg
egg yolk. Whisk until the mixture
fruit bavaror can
fruit bavarois can be be prepared
prepared in in the
the same
same way.
way. becomes frothy. Add
becomes frothY. little boiled
Add aa little boiled Ïnilkmilk andand55 teaspoons
teaspoons
Striped
Striped chocolate
chocolate and and vanilla
vanilla Bavarian
Bavarian cream.cream. BAVAROIS
BAVARoIS kirsch.
kirsch.
RUBANÉ
nun.q.N6 AU AU CHOCOLAT
cnoeoI-.a.r ET nr ÀA LA VANILLE -- Sift
LA VANILLE Sift 250
250 g. g. (9(9 oz.,
oz., Flavourings
Flavourings can can bebe rum,
rum, maraschino,
maraschino, or orany
anyother liqueur.
otherliqueur.
generous
generous cup) cup) fine
fin'e sugar
sugar into saucepan, add
into aa saucepan, add 88 egg
egg yolks
yolks and and (4oz.,
aa pinch
Bavaroise II
Bavaroise II -- Whisk
Whisk 44 egg egg yolks with 125
yolks with 125g.g.(4 oz.,t cup)
i cup)
pinch of of salt.
salt. Stir
Stir overover very
very lowlow heat
heat until
until the
the mixture
mixture isis fine
fine sugar
sugar until
until thick. Add itdl.
thick. Add dl. (3(3tablespoons,
tablespoons,scant scant**cup)
perfectly
perfectly blended.blended. Boil Boil 55 dl. dl. (scant
(scant pint,pint, 2* 2l cups)
cups) milk milk syrup (104'C.,220F.),2|
syrup (104°C., 220°F.), 2i dl. (scant1I pint,
dl. (scant pint,generous
generous cup) "rrp)
cup)
separately,
sefarately, add add 1I vanilIa
vanilla bean.bean. Add Add slowly
slowly to to thethe other
other freshly
freshly made
made hot hot tea,
tea, and
and thethe same amount boiling
same amount milk.
boiling milk.
mixture,
mixture, and and stirstir constantly
constantly over over low low heat.
heat. Wh When en thé thti Whisk
Whisk untiluntil the mixture isis very
the mixture frothy. Add
very frothy. Add 1I dl. dl. (.6(6
resul ting custard
custard thickens
thickens sufficien tly toto coa
coattaaspoon,
spoon, remove
remove
resulting sufficiently tablespoons,
tablespoons, seantscant1+cup)cup) rum,
rum, kirsch
kirsch or orCalvados.
Calvados.
from
from thethe heat.
heat. The bavaroisecan
The bavaroise can also
also be befiavoured
flavoured with with orange,
orange,lem lemon
on
Strain
Strain the the custard
custard and and divide
divide in in two
two parts.
parts. Add
Add 50 50 g.g. (2
(2 oz.,
oz., ororvanilla,
vanilla, which
whichshouldshould first
first be infused ininboiling
beinfused milk.
boiling milk.
22 squares)
squares) melted melted chocolate
chocolate to to oneone part,
part, and and blendblend inin
whipped
whipped cream cream whenwhen itit begins
begins to to set.
set. Blend
Blend whipped
whipped cream cream BA VAROISE AUX
BAVAROISE CHOUX -- French
ALIX CHOUX French slang
slang expression
expression
similarly
similarly into into the remaining custard
the remaining custard mixture.
mixture. describing
describing aamixture
mixture of
ofabsinth
absinth and
andorgeat.
orgeat.
Rinse
Rinse aa mou mould Id inin ice
ice water,
water, or or brush
brush with with sweet
sweet almond
almond
oil.
BAY. rnunrER-sAUcE - - Bay
BAY. LAURIER-SAUCE Bayleaves areaatraditional
leavesare in-
traditional in-
oil. Fill
Fill withwith alternate
alternate layerslayers of of the
the twotwo mixtures,
mixtures, taking taking gredient of
gredient the bouquet~garni
ofthe (q.v.).The
bouquet-garni(q.v.). Theberries ofthe
berriesof thebay
bay
care not
care not to to add
add aa new new layer
layer until
until thethe preceding
preceding one one has has set set
properly.
tree
tree are usedinin aa distillation
are used distillation ofof aromatic
aromatic herbs
herbscalled
called
properly. Place Place thethe mould
mould on on cru shed ice,
crushed ice, or
or in
in the
the refrigera-
refrigera- Fioravanti.
tor, Fioravanti.
tor, and
and leave
leave to to set
set 1+1| toto 22 hours.
hours. To To loosen
loosen the thebavarois,
bavarois,
dip
dip the
the mould
mould in in warm
warm water,water, dry dry it,it, and
and tum
turnthe the bavarois
bavarois BA YONNE - - Town
BAYONNE Town ininthe
theBasses-Pyrénées
Basses-Pyr6n6eswhere wherethe theegg
egg
into
into aa glass
glass dish.
dish. and
and oiloil sauce
sauce called mayonnaise isissaid
calledmayonnaise saidtotohave
have been
beenin-in-
Striped
Striped Bavarian
Bavarian cream cream (various
(various flavours).
flavous). BAVAROISBAvARoIS vented. ItIt isisalso
vented. alsoknown
known forforBayonne
Bayonne hams hamswhich
whichare,are,inin
RUBANÉS
nuslNfs AUX AUx PARFUMS
pARFUMs DIVERS DIvERs -- Proceed
Proceed as asdescribed
described in in the
the fact,
fact, made
madeininaaneighbouring
neighbouring town,
town,Orthez.
Orthez.
previous
previous recipe. recipe. Variegated
Variegated Bavarian Bavarian cream cream can can be bemademade The
The ham
ham isisusually
usually eaten raw.ItItisisalso
eatenraw. alsoused
usedtotoimprove
improve
byby using
using alternate
alternate layerslayers of of vanilla
vanilla and and strawberry
strawberry mixture mixture the flavourof
theflavour ragoittsand
ofragoûts andsauces,
sauces,and
andcooked
cookedasasaagamish
garnish
(or
(or any
any other
other red red fruit),
fruit), vanilla
vanilla and and coffee,
coffee, vanilla
vanillaand andapri-apri- for
foreggs
eggsprepared
prepared ininvarious
various ways.
ways.
cot, vanilla and pistachio
cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. nuts, etc. Bayonne
Bayonne and andthe
theneighbouring
neighbouring region
region produce
produceexcellent
excellent
Vanilla
Vanilla Bavarian
Bavarian cream cream (Carême).
(Car0me). FROMAGE FRoMAGEBAVAROIS s.avA.nolsÀA local dishes.There
localdishes. Thereare garbures(q.v.)
aregarbures (q.v.)(a(amixture
mixture ofofcabbage,
cabbage,
LA VANILLE - Add aa vanilla
LA vANTLLE - Add vanilla bean bean to to 33cups
cups cream
creamand andbring bring bacon,
bacon,goosegoosefatfatand
andrye
ryebread, popularininthe
bread,popular thePyrénées
Pyr6n6es

919l
BEAN
BEAN

district), preserved
district), preserved goose,
goose, preserved pork, locally
preserved pork, locally caJIed
called BROAD BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S.ShellShellbeans). rivrs -- Anoual
beans). FÈVES Annual plantplant
BROAD
methode. All the
methode. Ail the charcuterie
charcaterieof
of the
theBayonne
Bayonne region
regionis good,
is good, ofof the
the Leguminosae
Leguminosae family, family,cultivated
cultivated for for itsitsseeds, which
seeds,which
especially the
the black (blood) puddings.
black (blood) puddings. food for for man
especially serveas
serve as food man and and forfor animais.
animals. The The broad
broad bean,bean, ofof
Among the the sweets, pAtd de
sweets, pâté cidrat (a(a citron
decédrat citron preserve),
preserve), isis which the the Windsor
Windsor isis best known, isis the
Among which best known, the common
common bean bean of of
delicious, and
delicious, and Bayonne
Bayonne chocolate
chocolate isis noted.
noted. Europe. Other Other well-known
well-known broad broad beans
Europe. beans are are the lima bean,
the lima bean,
BEAN. HARICOT
HARrcor --A pulse ofwhich
of which there
there are many varieties,
are many varieties, aa species originating inin South
species originating America and
South America andcultivated
cultivated ex- ex-
BEAN. A pulse
edible, others
some edible, others ornamental.
ornamental. Among Among edible virieties are
edible varieties are
tensively in
tensively in California;
California; the the soya
soya beanbean of of China,
China, JapanJapan and and
sorne
beans, which
glimbing beans, which grow
grow to to aa height
height of to 33 m.
of 22 to l0
to 10
(6 to
m. (6 India, now
India, now very very widely
widely cultivated.
cultivated.Sorne Some beans,
beans, suchsuch as as the
the
c1imbing
feet), and
and are
are trained
trained onon bean poles. The
bean poles. The dwarf
dwarf varieties
varieties horse beanof
horse bean Scotland and
ofScotland and the
thecow cow pea of southern U.S.A.
pea ofsouthern U.S.A. are are
feet),
need nono support.
support. In In most
most varieties
varieties the pod isis tender
the pod tender andand chiefly used
chiefly used forfor forage.
forage.
need
edible when young.
when young. The fresh
The broad beans
fresh broad beans thatthat are commonly used
are commonly used in in Europe
Europe
edible
. Edible bean
Edible bean pods fall under
pods falI under the general heading
the general heading of of green
green do not have
do not have aa very high food
very high food value. Drid beans,
value. Dried beans, on on the other
the other
In sorne
beans. In varieties the
some varieties pod remains
the pod remains tender
tender and go6a to
anO good to hand, are
hand, in amino
rich in
are rich amino acidsacids and potassium salts;
and potassium salts; they
they also
also
beans.
eat even
eat even when fully grown,
when fully grown, butbut inin the
the case
case of of parchment-
parchment- contain large
contain large quantities
quantities of of nitrogenous
nitrogenous substances
substances and and
beans, itit becomes
skinned beans, becomes tough
tough and and leathery.
leathery. Vitamins Band
Vitamins B and E. Their nutritive
E. Their nutritive valuevalue isis therefore greater
therefore greater
skinned
than fresh
than fresh beans.
beans. However,
However, eaten eaten in in excess
excess they they cancan cause
cause
blood disorders
serious blood
serious (favism).
disorders (favism).
100 g.
100 (4 oz.)
g. (4 oz.) unpodded
unpodded beans yield approximately
beans yield approximately 50 50 g.g.
(2 oz.)
(2 oz.) comestible
comestible beans.beans.
To cook
To cook fresh broad beans.
fresh broad beans. SheU Shell the
the beans. Remove the
beans. Remove the
tough outer
tough outer skin skin and
and cook
cook in in boiling
boiling salted water with
salted water with aa
bunch of
bunch of savory. Drain, and
savory. Drain, and proceed
proceed according
according to to the
the
selected recipe.
selected recipe.
Fresh beam àI l'anglaise.
broad beans
Fresh broad l'anglaise. FÈvES rneicrrs ÀA L'ANGLAISE
rAvns FRAÎCHES r'ANcLArsE
Cook the
-- Cook the beans
beans as indicated above,
as indicated above, but leave leave in in their
their skins.
skins.
Drain, and
Drain, and serve with fresh
serve with fresh butter.
butter.
Fresh broad
Fresh broad beans
beans in in bUtter. rtvrs FRAîcHES
birtter. FÈvES rnalcrrts AU AU BEURRE
BEURRE - -
Proceed as for Peas
as for Peas in in butter (see (see PEAS), and and addadd chopped
chopped
savory.
savory.
Broad beans in in cream. rtvns À
cream. FÈvES rl proceed as
cniun -- Proceed
A LA cRÈME as for
Peas in
Peas in butter (see(see PEAS). Moisten with thick fresh fresh cream,
and simmer for
and for aa minute
minute or two.
Broad beans
Broad beam à lai la croque-au-sel. FÈvES rirvx ÀA LA r.l CROQUE-AU-
cnoeus-lu-
SEL -
spr - Fresh
Fresh broad beans served
broad beans served raw raw as as anan hors-d'œuvre.
hors-d'euvre.
The guests
The guests shell the beans
shell the themselves, seasoning
beans themselves, seasoning them
with coarse salt.
with coarse salt. This
This hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre is is popular all all over
over the
south of of France.
Fresh
Fresh broad beaos beans à lai la française.
frangaise. FÈVES rndcrns A
rilvss FRAÎCHES À LAr,c,
FRAN9ATSE - Shell and skin the beans, and cook as for peas
FRANÇAISE Peas àd
lafrangaise (see
lafrançaise (see PEAS), together with a bunch of of savory.
savory.
Purée of fresh broad beam
Pur6e beans for garnishing. runfo puRÉE ne FÈVES
DE FtvBs
rn llcffis - Proceed
FRAÎCHES - Proceed as as for
for Purie
Purée of fresh garden peas
of fresh peas (see
(see
PEAS).
Purée of bean soq
Puree soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. BROTHS.
Fresh broad bearn beans with ssvory.
savory. riivrs
FÈvES rn.licrcs
FRAÎCHES A rl
À LA sen-
SAR-
RrErfi
RIETTE - ShellShell and skin the beans, beans, and cook in boiling salted salted
water with
water with a bunch
bunch of of savory. Drain,Drain, return
return themthem to the the pan,
pan,
and
and shake
shake over heat for
over heat few seconds to get rid of
for a few of any
any mois-
mois-
ture left. Add
ture left. Add fresh butter
butter cut into small pieces. pieces. Mix care- care-
fully
fully so as not to damage damage the the beans.
beans.

FIELD
FIELD BEANS.
BEANS. r'Evrnorss
FÉVEROLES --European
Buropean broadbroad bean,
bean, smaller
smaller
than the ordinary
th an the ordinary kind,
kind, cooked
cooked in
in the
the same
same way.
way. These
These beans
beans
usually
usually remain
remain white.
white. Field bean flour
Field bean flour is
is sometimes added to
sometimes added to
wheaten flour
wheaten flour for the manufacture
for the manufacture ofof bread.
bread.
FLAGEOLET
FLAGEOLET BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors
HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs
FLAGEOLETS - Used Used -
mainly
mainly asas aa garnish
garnish (whether fresh or
(whether fresh dried) for
or dried) for meat
meat dishes.
dishes.
They
They are
are excellent
excellent with cuts of
with cuts of mutton
mutton or or lamb.
lamb, and
and make
make

k
delicately
delicately flavoured
flavoured pur6es.
purées. They are not
They are common in
not common in U.S.A.
U.S.A.
Fresh
Fresh flageolets.
flageolets. HARJcors
HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs
FLAGEOLETS FRArs
FRAIS -- Small
Smal1 beans
beans
of
of aa greenish
greenish colour.
colour ..They
They are cooked in
are cooked in the same way
the same way as
as
Fresh
Fresh white
white haricot'beans
haricotbeans (see below). All
(see below). recipes for
Ali recipes for haricot
haricot
beans
beans are suitable for
are suitable for flageolets.
flageolets.
FRENCH
FRENCH BEANS
BEANS (U.S. (U.S. String
String beans).
beans). HARrcors VERTS -- A
HARICOTS vsRrs A
delicately
delicately flavoured
flavoured vegetable,
vegetable, which should be
which should be freshly
freshly
picked,
picked, when they only
when they need to
only need to be
be topped and tailed..With
topped and tailed .. With
Varieties
Varietiesofbeans older
of beans beans, ititisisnecessary
olderbeans, necessary to
to cut
cut away the stringy
away the stringy edges.
edges.

92
92
 BEANS, RED
BEANS. RED

Wash
Wash the beans in
the beans in cold water, drain,
cold water, and put
drain, and them in
put them in aa Brown
Brown 100100 g. (4 oz.,
g. (a bZ., 11 cup) chopped on ions in
chopped onions in butter
butter and
and
large saucepan full
large saucepan full of
of boiling water (l|
salted water
boiling salted (lt teaspoons
teaspoons add
add thethe beans. Sauté all
beans. Saut6 together; the beans
ail together; beans should be be very
very
salt per
salt per litre, scant quart,
litre, scant generous quart
quart, generous quart water).
water). Leave
Leave the
the slightly browned.
browned. Sprinkle with chopped parsley
Sprinkle with parsley and
and add
add aa
uncovered and
saucepan uncovered
saucepan and cook
cook over over aa highhigh flame.
frame. The beans beans little
little vinegar.
vinegar.
are
are ready
ready whenwhen they they are tender but
are tender but still firmfirm in texture. Do
in texture. Do Mixed beans. HARIcors
Mixed beans. HARICOTS vERTs
peNlcnfs - Boil
VERTS PANACHÉS - Boil separately,
separately,
not overcook. Drain
not overcook. Drain thoroughly.
thoroughly. in salted water, equal quantities
in salted quantities of
of French beans
beans and small
Ifthe
If the beans
beans are are toto bebe kept
kept for for later use, or
later use, or areare to be dressed
to be fresh
fresh kidney
kidney beans (flageolets). Drain
beans (flageolets). Drain thoroughly.
thoroughly. Blend
Blend
with
with oil and vinegar
oil and vinegar as as a salad,
salad, they they should
should be be put
put in in aa colan-
colan- two in
the two
the in butter or cream.
cream.
der under running
der under running water. water. If they are to
If they be served at once in
to be in French beare i
beans à la normande. HARIcors
la normande. VERTS A
HARICOTS vERTs À m
LA Non-
NOR-
butter,
butter, creamcrearn or some other way, they
sorne other they should not be be cooled - Proceed as
MANDE - Proceed
MANDE as for French beans in
for French cream. After
in crearn. After the
after being boiled, but
after being but should be be well
weil drained.
drained. beans are cooked, blend in yolks
beans are of eggs. Just
yolks ofeggs. Just before
before serving
serving
French
French bearcbeans A l'anglaise. HARIcors
à I'anglaise. HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A À t'lNcrllss
L'ANGLAISE add butter.
-- Boil
Boil the beans in salted water, drain, and dry in a cloth.
the beans c1oth.
Serve with fresh butter. butter.
French beansbeans ià la la bonne
bonne femme. HARICOTS vrnrs
femme. HARIcors VERTS A À rlLA
BoNNE
BONNE FEMME FEMME - - Boil the beans in salted salted water until they are
three-parts cooked. Drain,
three-parts Drain, and dry in a cloth. cloth.
Blanch
Blanch aboutabout 200 g. (6 oz.) lean bacon, and cut into small
dice. Fry in butter. butter. Add 500 g. (l (1 lb.) of the nearly cooked
beans, moisten with thickened brown veal stock, cover
beans, coyer the
pan,
pan, and simmer slowly
and simmer slowly until until the beans are
the beans completely
are completely
cooked.
When ready to serve, add a little httle butter and sprinkle sprinkle with
chopped parsley.
French bearebeans in brown brown butter. HARICOTS HARIcors vERTs VERTS AU BEURRE
NOISETTE -
NoIsETTE - Boil the beans in salted water as indicated above.
Drain, and dry in a cloth. clotho Brown 25 g. (1 (l oz.,
oz.,2tablespoons)
2 tablespoons) French bean saI
French salad
ad
butter in aa pan, add the beans, season, season, and toss them weil well
until
untiJ they have absorbed the butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped French bean
French bean saIsalad.
ad. SALADE
SALADE DE HARrcors VERTS
DE HARICOTS Boil the
vERTs -- Boil the
parsley before serving. serving. beans in in salted
salted water. DrainDrain andand dry in in aa cloth.
cloth. Serve
Serve withwith
French beans in butter à i la maître d'h6tel. HARICOTS
maitre d'hôtel. HARtcors vERTs VERTS aa French dressing.
BEURRE i,
AU BEURRE
AU À rl rulirnr Do'H6rsr
LA MAÎTRE ' HÔTEL -- Boil Boil thethe beans as as indi- The salad
The salad cancan be seasoned while
be seasoned while the
the beans
beans are still hot,
are still
cated above, and and draindrain thoroughly
thoroughly. . Toss them in aa pan pan over flavoured with
flavoured with finely
finely chopped mixed herbs
chopped mixed herbs or with thinly
or with
heat forfor aa fewfew moments to to ensure that that ailall moisture left in onion rings.
sliced onion
sliced
them has evaporated. saut6ed in
Fr.ench beans sautéed
Ft;ench in butter.
butter. HARICOTS
HARIcors VERTS saurfs AU
vERTs SAUTÉS eu
Season, and and add add butter cut into very small pieces -- 90
small pieces 90 to BEURRE -- Boil the
BEURRE the beans
beans inin salted
salted water. Drain and and dry in aa
dry in
100 g. bu Uer to 500 g.
butter g. beans (3 to 4 oz., scan t
scantt I cu cup butter
p bu per
tter per cloth. Sauté
cloth. Saut6 in in aa heavy iron pan in in butter,
butter, slightly browning
slightly browning
I1 lb.
lb. beans). Mix the the beans in the the butter so so that the theyy are ailall the beans.
the Sprinkle with
beans. Sprinkle with chopped
chopped parsley.
parsley.
evenly coated
coated.. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. French beans
French i
saut6ed à la
beqns sautéed la provençale. ru'nrcors VERTS
provengale. HARICOTS vERTs
French
French beansbeans in in cream
cream I. I. HARlCOTS
nlruco'rs VERTS vERTs À A LAm CRÈME
cntlr,c -- slurft ÀA LA
SAUTÉS L,c, PROVENÇALE -
pnovENgALE - Proceed Proceed as as forfor French
French beansbeans
Boil the
Boil beans in
the beans in salted water until
salted water until theythey are are three-parts sautied in
sautéed in butter,
butter, substituting
substituting oil for the
oil for butter. Just
the butter. before
Just before
cooked. serving, add
serving, little grated
add aa little grated garlicand
garlic and chopped parsley.
chopped parsley.
Drain, and dry in aa clotho cloth. TossToss in melted butter, and cover
and coyer Preserved French
Preserved -
bears - See
French beans PRESERVATION OF
See PRESERVATION OF
with fresh
with thick cream.
fresh thick cream. SimmerSimmer untiJ until the
the sauce
sauce has has been FOODS.
FOODS.
reduced to
reduced to half its its original volume. volume. Season. Season. Puree of
Purée of French
French beans. punfo DE
beans. puRÉE HARIcors VERTS
DE HARICOTS -
vERTs - Boil Boil
Frenci beans
French beam in cream n.
in cream II. HARICOTS
rHmcom VERTS vERTs À A LAu CRÈME
cntuE -- the beans in
the beans in salted
salted water. Drain and
water. Drain and dry
dry inin aa clotho
cloth. Stew
Stew forfor
Follow the
Follow the preceding
preceding recipe, recipe, but but simmer
simmer the the beans
beans in in aa aa few
few minutes
minutes in in butter,
butter, and rub them
and rub through aa fine
them through fine sieve.
sieve.
rather
rather thinthin Béchamel
Bichamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) instead instead of of cream.
cream. Add to
Add to this half its
puree half
this purée its volume
volume of of mashed potato, and
mashed potato, and
Add butter just before serving. serving. heat up
heat up the mixture. Add
the mixture. Add butter just before
butter just before serving.
serving.
French beans
French prepared in
beans prepared in this
this way way and and sprinkled
sprinkled with with beare in
French beans
French tomato sauce.
in tomato HARIeors VERTS
sluce. HARICOTS vERTs ÀA LA LA TOMATE
ToMATE
chopped
chopped parsley are are called
called haricots
haricots verts verts àd lala tourangelle.
tourangelle. - Boil the
- Boil the beans
beans in in salted
salted water until they
water until they areare three-parts
three-parts
Dried
Dried French
French beans. HARIcoN VERTS
beans. HARICOTS vERTs SECS sEcs -- Soak Soak for for aa cooked Drain, and
cooked.. Drain, in aa clotho
dry in
and dry cloth. Stew
Stew forfor aa few
few minutes
minutes
long
long time
time in in cold
cold water
water and and cook cook like like fresh
fresh French
French beans. beans. in butter,
in butter, andand addadd several tablespoons Tomato
several tablespoons Tomato saucesauce (see(see
French beans ài la
French la française. n^lRlcors VERTS
frangaise. HARICOTS vERTs À A LA FRANQAISE
LA FRANÇAISE SAUCE). Simmer.
SAUCE). with chopped
Sprinkle with
Simmer. Sprinkle parsley.
chopped parsley.
-- Slice
Slice the
the beans
beans in in pieces
pieces about
about 33 cm cm.. (1(l inch)
inch) long.
long. Proceed
Proceed
LIMA BEANS.
LIMA BEANS. HARICOTS
HARIcors DE DE LIMA Lima beans,
LIMA -- Lima sometimes
beans, sometimes
as for Peas
asfor Peas àd la française (see
lafrangaise (see PEAS)
PEAS).. peas,are popular in America. They
in America. They are green,like
are green,
called Cape
called Cape peas, are popular like
French
French beans beans au gratin. HARICOTS
au gratin. HARIcors VERTS vERTs AU GRATIN --
AU GRATIN flageolets, and
flageolets, about the
and about the size ofbroad
size of beans.
broad beans.
Proceed
Proceed as for French
as for French beans beans in ueatn. Put
in cream. Put the the beans
beans in in an
an
All recipes
Ali for Fresh
recipes for haricot beans
white haricot
Fresh white (see below)
beans (see below) are
are
ovenware
ovenware dish dish withwith grated
grated cheese.
cheese. Pour Pour melted
melted butterbutter overover suitable for lima
suitable for lima beans.
beans.
them and
them and sprinkle
sprinkle with with more
more gratedgrated cheese.
cheese. Brown Brown slowly slowly
in
in the
the oyen.
oven. RED BEANS.
RED BEANS. HARICOTS RoucEs -
n c.Rrcors ROUGES-
French
French beansbeans in in gravy.
gravy. HARICOTS
HARIcors VERTS vERTs AU AU JUS Boil the
rus -- Boil the Fresh red beans
Fresh red (U.S. Iddney
beans (U.S. kidney beans). HAnrcors ROUGES
beans). HARICOTS RoucES
beans
beans in in salted
salted water until they
water until they are are three-parts
three-parts cooked. cooked. FRAIS Cook inin the
FRAIs -- Cook the same way as
same way white haricot
Fresh white
as Fresh haricot beans
beans
Drain, and
Drain, and stew stew them slowly in
them slowly in butter.
butter. Moisten
Moisten with with (see All recipes
below). Ali
(see below). for white
recipes for white beans
beans arearesuitable for red
suitable for red
thickened
thickened brown brown stock. stock. beans.
beans.
French
French beans beans ài la la lyonnaise.
lyonnaise. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS vsnrs ÀA LA rl Dried red
Dried red beans. RoucEs SECS
HARIcors ROUGES
beare. HARICOTS Cook inin the
sEcs -- Cook the
LyoNNArsE -- Boil
LYONNAlSE Boil 500 500 g. (l lb.) French
g. (lIb.) French beans beans in in salted water.
salted water. same
same way
way as Driedwhite
as Dried haricot beans
white haricot (see below).
beans (see All recipes
below). All recipes
Drain
Drain and and drydrv in in aa clotho
cloth. for dried
for dried white
white beans
beans areare suitable for dried
suitable for red beans.
dried red beans.

93
93
BEANS, TONKA
BEANS, TONKA

Red beans in
Red beam in red wine à la
red wine ila bouguignonne.
bourguignonne. HARIcors
HARICOTS Drain, and put in a saucepan. Toss them over a ftameflame for a
RoucEs
ROUGES AU ROUGE A
VIN Roucn
AU vrN BOURGUIGNONNE - Cook
LA nounc[IIGNoNNE
À r,.c, -
Cook the few seconds to dry them. Blend in
in75 o2.,66 tablespoons)
75 g. (3 oz., tablespoons)
beans in equal parts of water and red red wine, with herbs and butter to every litre (scant quart,
to every generous quart) cooked
quart, generous
a piece of blanched lean bacon, or lean smoked bacon. beans.
When
When thethe beans are soft,
beans are soft, drain and fry
drain and fry them,
them, together Fresh white beambeans en cassoulet. HARIcors
HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS EN
BLANCS FRAIS
with sorne coarsely chopped bacon, in
with some butter. Serve with
in butter. cAssouLET -- The cassoulet of Languedoc is made from dried
CASSOULET
creamed butter.
creamed bu tter. white haricot beans,
white but it
beans, but it may also be
may also be made from fresh
made from
beans. (See CASSOULET.)
TONKA BEANS -- The seed of a pulse rich in coumarin,
TONKA coumarin, a
Fresh white beans cream. HARICOTS
beans in cream. HARIcors BLANCS nRxs À
BLANcs FRAIS A LAr.c,
fragrant crystalline substance,
fragrant crystalline volatile oils and
substance, analogous to volatile
cniirvrs -- Cook the beans as indicated in Fresh white haricot
CRÈME
camphor, used in the manufacture
camphor, manufacture ofsome
of some liqueurs.
Return to
Drain. and
beans. Drain,
beans. and coyer
cover with thick freshfresh cream.
cream. Retum
FRESH WHITE HARICOT
FRESH WHITE HARICOT BEANS.
BEANS. HARrcors
HARICOTS BLANcS
BLANCS the pan,
the pan, simmer until the the cream
cream hashas been reduced to
been reduced to half
Cook in boiling salted water to which has been
- Cook
FRAIS -
FRAIS been added volume, and
its volume, and add fresh
fresh cream.
cream. MixMix.well.
weil.
aromatic
aromatic vegetables and and a r bouquet
bouquet garni (q.v.). They
They can also Estorffat of fresh
Estouffat beans àI l'occitane.
fresh white beam I'occitane. ESTOUFFAT
EsrouFFAT DE
cooked as follows:
be cooked HARIcors
HARICOTS BLANCS rnHs A
BLANcs FRAIS L'occIrANE -- Brown 250 g.
À L'OCCITANE (+ lb.)
g. (-t
Cut a carrot and an onion into quarters and brown them belly
belly of pork, or salt pork, diced and blanched, in butter or
diced and
lightly in butter. Add the beans, aa bouquet garni and
lightly and 300 g. goose
goose fat. Add 1 I chopped onion,22 peeled,
chopped onion, peeled, chopped
chopped tomatoes,
(ll oz.) blanched lean bacon. Coyer
(11 with 33litres
Cover with (5| pints,
litres (5t little crushed
and aa little
and garlic. Cook for
crushed garlic. for 10l0 minutes. Add Add li l+
6] pints) water, seasoned with salt.
6-t litres
litres (2à- pints, 3t
(2f pints, 3f pints)
pints) white
white haricot beans which have
beans which
Bring to the boil,
to the boil, and after 25
and after 25 minutes add the
minutes add the beans. been three
been parts cooked,
three parts cooked, andand then
then drained.
drained. Coyer,
Cover, and
slowly. This
Simmer slowly. This method greatly improves
method of cooking greatly finish cooking.
finish
flavour of the beans, which can be dressed in aa number
the ftavour Fresh white beaœ beans ài la lyonnaise. HARIcors BLANCS FRAIS
lyonnaise. HARICOTS
of different ways. A m LYONNAISE
À LA rvoNNAIsE -- Cook and and drain the beans. To To each litre
(Dry white haricot beans must must be
be soaked
soaked in in cold
cold water (scant quart,
(scant quart, generous quart) beans
generous quart) beans addadd 22 onions
onions thinly
for a time before cooking.)
cooking.) sliced and cooked in
sliced and in butter until
until tender. Simmer for
tender. Simmer for aa few
few
Fresh beans ài la
Fresb white beans la bretonne. HARIcors BLANCS
bretonne. HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS
FRAIS minutes in
minutes in aa casserole. with 22 tablespoons
Sprinkle with
casserole. Sprinkle tablespoons (3 (3
A nr.sroNr{E -- Cook the beans as indicated in the previous
Le BRETONNE
À LA tablespoons) chopped parsley.
tablespoons) chopped
recipe. Drain, and
recipe. Drain, put them
and put them inin aa pan. Blend in
pan. Blend in Bretonne
Bretonne Fresh white beans
Fresh white with parsley.
beam witb tnRlcors BLANCS
parsley. HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS
FRAIs
sauce (see SAUCE) in the proportion of 2-t 2| dl. (scant I pint,
dl. (scant} pint, Aux FINES
AUX ITERBEs-- Proceed as
FINEs HERBES asfor
for Fresh white beans in butter,
generous cup) sauce to to 1I litre (scant quart,
quart, generous quart) with chopped parsley added.
with
cooked beans. Simmer for a few minutes, and and sprinkle with Purée
Puree of of fresb white beans.
fresh white puRfn DE
besns. puRÉE HARIcors BLANCS
DE HARICOTS BLANcS
chopped parsley.
parsley. FRAIs -- Cook the beans, drain, and rub through aa fine
FRAIS fine sieve.
sieve.
Fresh beans in
white beans
Fresh white in botter.
butter. HARICOTS
HARIcors BLANCS
BLANcS FRAISFRAIs AU Warm this
Wann with aa wooden spoon
pur6e, stirring with
this purée, until itit is
spoon until
BEURRE-
BEURRE - Cook the beans
beans as indicated in the previous
previous recipes. smooth. Before serving, add fresh
serving, add fresh butter in in the
the proportion

rg

beans (Nicolas)
Haricot beaos ( N ico las\

94
 BEARN, BASQUE, BIGORRE
PA YS BASQUE,
BÉARN, PAYS BIGORRE

of 100 g. (4
of 100 oz., *t cup)
(4 oz, cup) butter
butter to g. (generous
500 g.
to 500 (generous 11lb.,
lb., 22 cups)
cups) eIl Dried
Dried white beans in
white beam in tomato sauce. HARIcors
tomato sauce. HARICOTS BLANcS
BLANCS sEcs
SECS
purée.
pur6e. AU
AU ToMATEs - and drain
Cook and
TOMATES - Cook drain the beans. To
the beans. To each litre (scant
each litre (seant
Ifthe
If the bean
bean pur6e is
is to be
be served as
as aa vegetable or aa garnish
vegetable or quart, generous quart)
quart, quart) beans add 3
beans add dl. (]
3 dl. pint, l|
(t pint, li cups)
cups)
itit should be fairly thick.
should be tbick. Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) flavoured
(see FONDUE) with a
flavoured with a little
little
Fresh white bean
Fresh bean salad.
saladoSALADE DE
SALADE DE HARIcors
HARICOTS BLANcS
BLANCS garlic and a
garlic chopped parsley.
tablespoon chopped
a tablespoon parsley. Simmer
Simmer allaIl
FRArs
FRAIS - -Cook and drain the
Cook the beans. Put them in a salad bowl
Put them bowl together pan for
together in a pan minutes, and
for a few minutes, and serve.
serve.
and
and dress with oil
dress with oil and vinegar, season with
and vinegar, salt, pepper
with salt,
and chopped mixed herbs (parsley, chervil and chives). Mix
(parsley, chervil BEAR. OURS -
BEAR. ouRs - Bear meat can only
Bear meat be used
only be after itit has
used after has been
been
well.
weil. marinated for a long
marinated time. It is
long time. not particularly tasty
is not ta st y and
and isis
This
This salad needs a lot
salad needs lot of seasoning. Onion
of seasoning. Onion rings or chopped
rings or often tough. Prepare in
tough. Prepare way suitable for
in any way for wild
wild boar
boar or
or
onion may be added to it. venison. Sorne gastronomes consider
venison. Some consider bear's paws to
bear's paws to be
be aa
great delicacy.
delicacy.
DRIED WHITE HARICOT
HARICOT BEANS (U.S.
(U.S. Horticultural
Horticultural
JAMBON D'ouRs-
Bear ham. JAMBoN
Bear D'OURS - ThisThis ham, common in
ham, common in Russia
Russia
beans). HARIcors BLANCS sBcs-
HARICOTS BLANcs Dried white
SECS - Dried white haricot beans are
haricot beans
and some countries, is cured in
sorne European countries, in the same way way as as
usually soaked for a long time in water, but this traditional traditional pork ham. It
pork ham. eaten cooked or
It is eaten raw. All
or raw. recipes for
AlI recipes for pork
pork
practice is a bad one. If
practice beans or
If dried beans other dried vegetables
or other vegetables
ham are suitable for bear
ham bear ham.
ham.
have to be soaked they
have tbey should be left for a short time only.
short time only.
Bear's prw. IATTEPATTE DE L'OURS -- The
DE L'ouRs The earliest delicacy known
earliest delicacy known
Some recipes recommend 12
Sorne even 24 hours of soaking,
12 or even
Mencius, who lived about
to the Chinese. Mencius, hundred years
about aa hundred years
whereas soaking, even
wheqeas even for for a a few hours, may
few hours, may cause
cause slight
sligbt
after Confucius, said: 'Fish
after Confucius, 'Fish is what
what Illike,
like, so bear's paws;
are bear's
so are
fermentation which noticeably
fermentation noticeably spoils spoils the flavour of
the flavour the beans
of the
cannot have both, I1 will
if I1 cannot
but if will forego the fish fish and
and choose
and can
and can also make them thern slightly poisonous. To To swell the
bear's paw.'
the bear's paw.'
beans, 1 t
lltoto 2 hours soaking is sufficient.
bours soaking sufficient.
The supply of this tbis delicacy is now very limited, limited, andand isis to
to
If
If the beans
beans are are of good quality
of good quality and have been dried within
have been be had, if aU, in north China.
at all,
if at China. Its unique. Mr.
l ts taste isis unique. Mr. Cheng,
Cheng,
the year, they theycan can be be cooked without soaking. soaking. one-time ambassador
ambassadorto to the Court-of St. James', James', said: 'The'The
Pick through the
Pick the beans and and wash them. Put
wash them. them in
Put them in a nearest comparison is that it
nearest it is like the fat fat part of of the best
best
deep saucepan with plenty of cold cold water, and bring slowly ham, or rather much better, for it it has not greasiness of
not the greasiness of
to the boil. Skim. Season. Season. Flavour with aromatic V"j~'-laLJl'-"
aromatic vegetables the latter. It is so smooth and delicious de\icious that it simply melts
it simply
(onions
(on stuck with
ions stuck with c1oves, quartered carrots, a bouquet
cloves, quartered in the mouth.'
mou th. '
garni (q.v.)
(q.v.) and aa small c10ve garlic). Cover the pan and
clove of garlic).
To cook. Wrap the paw c1ean mud and bake
paw in clean bake inin the oven.
oven.
simmer very very slowly. When the mud becomes firm finn like clay, take the paw out of of
In sorne especially for cassoulet (q.v.) and estoufat
some cases, especially estouffat the oven, leave to cool, and peel off the mud -- this will
peel off will auto-
auto-
(q.v.) it is advisable to cook the dried beans with fat. This is
matically
matically tear off offthe
the hairy
hairy skin of of the paw. Simmer
Simmer in water,
done by adding to the stock salted bacon, chine of salt pork
changing the water frequentlyfrequently to get get rid
rid of its gamey
of its gamey smell
smell
or knuckle of pork, and fresh pork skin.
and fresh skin. This addsadds flavour
and taste.
to the beans.
to When the paw has become 'tasteless', cook
become very soft and 'tasteless',
Once cooked, dried white beans can can be used in the sarne same
over low heat with shredded chicken meat, lean Jean ham,
harn, sherry
ways as
ways as fresh
fresh white beans: in
white beans: butter, àd la
in butter, la bretonne,
bretonne, en
and just enough water water to ingredients to
enable the ingredients
to enable to yield'a
yielda
estouffat, àd la lyonnaise, in cream, with herbs,
cassoulet, en estouffat, berbs, as thick gravy. Cut in slices, like
in sUces, like ham.
pur6e, in salad, etc.
a purée,
Ihied white beans
Dried beans ài l'américaine.
I'am6ricaine. HARIcors BLANcS SECS
HARICOTS BLANCS sEcs
BEARBERRY. RAlSIN
BEARBERRY. D'OURS -
nnrsm D'ouRs See ARBUTUS.
- See ARBUTUS.
r'eufnrclrxr -- Cook
A L'AMÉRICAINE
À Cook the beans in in the usual way, adding
usual way,
500 g. (generous
opr,prt"\llC 1 I lb.) lean baconbacon to a litre (lIt pints, generous
litre (1 Bf,ARN PAYS Ufi.CO
BASQUE, BTGoRRE-- The
....".JJr... BIGORRE The art
art of cookery
of cookery
quart) dried haricot beans. beans. Drain, trim and dice the bacon. bacon. is highly esteemed in these three picturesque provinces
three picturesque of
provinces of
Mix the
Mix the beans
beans withwith tomato
tomato sauce,sauce, add add thethe bacon
bacon and the Pyrenees.
simmer until until the
the bacon is is well cooked.
-
specialities - Among the
Culinary specialities many notable
the many notable dishes
dishes
Dried white
Dried white beansbeam ài l'anglaise. HARIcors BLANCS
I'anglaise. HARICOTS BLANcS SECSsEcs À A garbure, aa substantial soup; lou
are garbure,
are lou trebuc, preserved goose
trebuc, preserved goose
I'ANGLAIsE -- Boil
L'ANGLAISE Boil thethe beans
beans in in water
water withwith seasoning
seasoning and pork; toulia
or pork; toulian Bigorre and
in Bigorre ouliat in Béarn,
and ou/iat B6arn, onion soup to to
herbs, and drain. Serve
and drain. Serve with fresh fresh butter. which aa dash
which dash of vinegar is is sometimes
sometimes added, added, and which is is
Dried white
Dried white beansbears ài la la berrichonne. HARIcors BLANCS
berrichonne. HARICOTS BLANcS also made
also made of of cheese,
cheese, tomatoes, leeks leeks and when it
garlic, when
and garlic, it
sscs À
SECS A LA BERRIcHoNwS -- Proceed as for Dried white beans au
LA BERRICHONNE takes name of soupe
the name
takes the soupe du&t berger.
gratin (see below). AlternateAlternate layers of beans and thick thick mutton Poule au pot d'Henri IV IV is dish; tender lamb
historic dish;
is aa historie lamb is is
hash in in an
an ovenware
ovenware dish. dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour pour to be
to had in the
be had Ossau valley in
the Ossau in Béarn, mutton cutlets in
B6arn, rnutton in
melted butter over,
rnelted over, andand brown in the oven. Barbges; there
Barèges; also daube àd la
are also
there are la béarnaise,
biarnaise, or or estouffat;
estouffat;
Dried white
Dried white beansbeans àI la la charcutière.
charcutilre. HARICOTS
HARIcors BLANCS preserved go
preserved goose, pork, turkey and
ose, pork, and duck.
secs À
SECS A LA cHARcur$ns - Cook
LA CHAhCUTlÈRE Cook the the beans
beans withwith aa piece
piece ofof Wines -
Wines - Béarn produces excellent
B6arn produces excellent locallocal wines.
wines. The
desalted lean
desalted lean rawraw ham,
ham, and and herbs.
herbs. When the ham is is cooked, dCpartemenl of
département of the
the Basses-Pyrénées
Basses-Pyr6n6es prod produces
uces several wines
drain it and
drain and eut coarse dice. Drain tbe
cut into coarse the beans thoroughly. come under the
that come categories of the
the categories the appellations d'origiru
appellations d'origine
Brown 150
Brown 150 g. (5 oz.,lf,
(5 oz., cups) chopped on
li cups) onion
ion inin butter. Add and V.D.Q.S.
and V.D.Q.S.
beans and simmer,
the beans
the simmer, presently adding the diced ham.
the diced ham. The Jurançon
The Jurangon is the best known of of the appelations
appelations d'origine
Transfer to
Transfer to aa buttered ovenwareovenware dish. Cook Cook 66 small
small pork wines. It
wines. It was with this
was with wine that
this wine that the King of
the King of Navarre
(cripinettes) in
sausages (crépinettes)
sausages in butter,
butter, and them down
press them
and press down on on moistened the
moistened lips of
the Iips of his
his nephew, the future Henry
the future IV. It
Henry IV. It isis
the beans.
the beans. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with breadcrurnbs,
breadcrumbs, and and addadd the
the butter
butter rosy-tinged wine with
aa robust, rosy-tinged with an unusual, mellow bouquet,
in which
in which the the sausages
sausages were Brown slowly.
cooked. Brown
were cooked. slowly. and cornes
and from the
comes frorn the so-called 'Manseng' vine.
so-called 'Manseng' vine. This
This vine,
vine,
Dried white
Dried white beansbeans au gratin. HARICOTS
au gratin. HARIcors BLANCSBLANcS SECS sncs AUAU with the
together with the Sémillon
S6millon and and Sauvignon,
Sauvignon, also gives the
also gives the
cRATIN -- Cook
GRATIN Cook and drain the
and drain the beans, and add
beans, and add sorne concen-
some concen- Pacherenc de
Pa<;hererlC Vicbilh, aa white
de Vicbilh, produced in
white wine produced in the nortb
north of of
trated veal
trated veal stock.
stock. Pour Pour into into aa buttered ovenware dish,
buttered ovenware the province.
the province.
sprinkle with with toasted breadcrumbs, and
toasted breadcrumbs, and add
add melted
melted butter. The Madiran isis aa very
The very strong
strong wine,wine, the perfect accom-
the perfect accom-
Brown slowlyslowlv in in the
the oven.
oven. paniment to to the
the cuisine
anisine ofof the Among the
region. Among
the region. V.D.Q.S.
the V.D.Q.S.

95
95
BEARN, PAYS BASQUE,
BÉARN, BIGoRRE
BASQUE, BIGORRE

Sauveterre
Sauveterre de B6arn,
Béarn, Béarn (French Governmenl
B6arn (French Ofice)
Tourist Office)
Government Tourisi

thete lrouldguy, the red

there is the Irouléguy, wine of the Basque country,
red wine country, of November. It is and soft, or dry, depending on
is sweet and on the
the
the white and red
white and red wines B6arn, the
wines of Béarn, the Rousselet, and the
Rousselet, and year.
very dry ros6s B6arn -
rosés of Béarn which are
- which are beginning seriously to characteristic feature
'The characteristic feature of
of the Jurançon
Jurangon is its sweetness,
sweetness,
rival
rival those
those of Provence.
Provence. which does not destroy its bouquet or turn it into aa syrup.
PauJ de Cassagnac, aa great
Paul great gourmet, who studied
studied the wines The vintage
The vintage years are mostly
years are irregular; often
mostly irregular; often the
the good
Adour basin, quotes among the remarkable vintages
of the Adour vintages qualities of Jurançon
qualities Jurangon are swamped in
are swamped in the
the excess of sugar.
of the
the Madiran those of 1870,
those of 1886, 1898,
1870, 1886, 1898, 1904 and 1916.
1904 and 1886, and 1916 produced splendid results.'
1905 and
1886, 1905
occasion to drink aa Madiran of 1848 which was
He had also occasion A red
A is· also made in
Jurangon (Bouchy) is'also
red Jurançon and is
B6arn and
in Béarn
still 'at the height of its form'.
still greatly esteemed
greatly esteemed asas aa table wine, but
table wine, but it cannot compare
it cannot
gathered late, towards the end
'The Portet is a white wine, gathered with white Jurançon.
Jurangon.

Lamprey, Shad, Sahed leg of

cEAN:H.J
ffi*i{*'''
Ham omelette,
:?^%ru^zi,A
PoiEi,-a duck preserves (confits)
ftt
r.
Lonquinguesrrtp!t{
Poule ou pot i

ry:"H:f:Sffi
lmffi;*xl#@ffif':iffiW
ci.r6prr, sguids,
Sea-perch, Grey
i[;l;i["'"7
mullet,
"''"=" {
.I-
'-"1
i
--''.;il:;::'
i +-_';;il;;;;;!-, Macaroons. Bas.que flan

i",:,f:.:.:^1^-
n*-*'+-ttr:*'^(t** \
speclolitier o;aaornl
Elzekoria (pumpkin soup). Purce.de ciboure, Piperoile, tf
_\\ ffiffi#ff,
lzird (chafrois) stew ano
Songuetc,-Broye, Cro.gucts b€ornois, .l-_
breadl-
bread), t---rr \\\ preserve (confi)
\\ li
Lretons,5olurgue,
Cretons. Solursue.
Creions, Aliches noifes
Salurgue, /vlicnes (black bread),
noires (Dlack
iiipiinut, Aticutt,' '' -'.-fu'-*r4'r'r'r-r
\
Duck s'fiver,
fl.:i{i'ffli:jfiii::ifl, ,.,,r"r
salmi,
Hochto, Soutd chicken, Pigeon
e,t*yo,t. --\\
i
Merveilles, Crespets. Postis \\ f

Map
Map of Béarn
of B6arn

96
 BEAUVILLIERS
BEA UVILLIERS

BÉARNAISE SAUCE -- This famous sauce is said to have

BEARNAISE have BEAUGENCY -- Small
BEAUGENCY town in
Small town in Loiret,
Loiret, producing wine
wine
origina ted in
originated in B6arn, sorne culinary writers assert
Béarn, though some the Basse-Bourgogne (Lower
resembles the
which resembles (Lower Burgundy)
Burgundy)
that it originated
that originated at Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Saint-Gennain-en-Laye and
and was named
named wines.
wines.
in honour
honour of Henry IV, the Great Biarnal's.
Béarnais. But in fact the
BEAUHARNAIS (A
BEAUHARNAIS (A LA) of preparing
LA) -- Method of preparing small cuts
cuts
Henry IV pavilion restaurant from the year
pavilion dates as a restaurant year 1836
1836 of meat, mainly
ofmeat, mainlytournedos.
.t ourne do s.
Béarnaise sauce first appeared in 1818 in
and the recipe for Bdarnaise
Garnish with small artichoke
Garnish artichoke hearts and Biarnaise
Béarnaise sauce
sauce
la Cuisiniire
Ia Cuisinière des villes
vil/es et des campagnes. (see with a
(see SAUCE), vtith purée of tarragon added to it;
a pur6e it; and
BEAST. B~TE
BEA ST. stTE -
- Animals intended for
Animais intended for slaughter,
slaughter, which
which little potato
potato balls.
the general
come under the tenn of livestock,
general term livestock, are enumerated
under
under that heading. In addition, some
that heading. beasts of
sorne beasts of burden,
burden, such BEAUJOLAIS -- Ancient French region that has given its
as horse, mule, donkey and camel,
as cameJ, are edible. name to a 'gulping'wine
'gulping' wine with a very strong
strong bouquet
bouguet which
which
animais, i.e. ground game,
Among the wild animals, all of which
game, ail which must
must bebe drunk when it
drunk when is young
it is young and
and fresh.
fresh. L6on
Léon Daudet
Daudet
are
are edible, are deer,
edible, are deer, chamois, fallow-deer,
fallow-deer, red deer, wild
red deer, said that Lyon was watered by three rivers: the Rh6ne,
Rhône, the
boar. Sa6ne and
Saône the Beaujolais. The appellation'Beatjolais'
and the appellation 'Beaujolais' is
Iinked with the viticultural
linked viticultural region of Burgundy (q.v.).
of Burgundy (g.v.).
BÉATILLES (Iitbits)
BEATILLES (Titbits) -- Cocks' combs and kidneys, lambs'
sweetbreads, mushrooms, used as a garnish for vol-au-vent,
sweetbreads, vol-au-vent, BEAUMONT -- Savov cheese in season from
Savoy cheese from October
October to
and tourtes (q.v.),
bouchées and
bouchdes bound with aa Velouti
(g.v.), bound Velouté souce
sauce or June.
Supr~me sauce (see SAUCE).
Suprtme
Sub-prefecture of
BEAUNE -- Sub-prefecture of the
the Cdte-d'Or.
Côte-d'Or. Famous
Ragoftt
Ragoût of béatilles (titbits) -- Here is an old recipe:
of Hatilles
of its wines. It has
since the Middle Ages for the excellence of
'Gently cook in butter 250 g. g. Q
(9 oz.) lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads
sweetbreads given
given its name to an appellation contr1lie.
appellation conirôlée.
(which have previously
(which have previously been soaked in
been soaked cold
in co water and
Id water of the southern part of the COte-
The white and red wines of Côte-
blanched). Skin and soak in cold water
blanched). water 125 g. (4 oz.) cocks' 'Cdte de Beaune'. They
d'Or are classed under the name of 'Côte
combs, and cook in a court-bouillon (q.v.). Add 25 g. (1
court-bouillon (g.v.). (1 oz.) are among
are among the finest of
the finest of the wines (see
the Burgundy wines (see BUR-
cocks' kidneys, cooked in in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1cup)
} cup)
GUNDY).
Madeira andand aa tablespoon butter.
butter. Sauté briskly in
Saut6 briskly in butter The annual auction of
The annual wine
wine auction of the Hospices de
the Hospices de Beaune
250 g. (9 oz.) sliced and seasoned
seasoned chicken livers. CookCook 250 g. attracts buyers from all over the world.
attracts from ail
(9
(9 oz.) trimmed and washed mushrooms in butter. Put the
lambs' sweetbreads,
sweetbreads, chicken
chicken livers,
Iivers, cocks' combs and kidneys
cocks'combs BEAUVILLIERS -- Beauvilliers
BEAWILLIERS was aa great
Beauvilliers was great cuisinier. He
and the mushrooms in aa saucepan Add 125 g.
saucepan.. Add g. (4 oz.) sliced served as Steward
served of the Household
Steward of Household to the Count
Count ofProvence
of Provence
and lf
truffies and li dl. (t
(f pint,3t Madeira. Simmer with a lid
pint, cup) Madeira. Attaché Extraordinary of
and Attach6 of the Royal Household.
Household .
on
on,. The restaurant which
The which he (n 1782, according to
he founded (in
'Make aa Velouté (q.v.) using concentrated chicken stock.
Veloutd (g.v.) stock. Brillat-Savarin, in
in 1786
1786 according toto others) was
was situated
Add to it half its volume of fresh cream. Boil down by half.
fresh cream. at 26 de Richelieu and was called la Grande
rne de
26 rue Grande Taverne de
Lace with aa little
Lace with Madeira. add
little Madeira, add sorne
some butter. strain. and
butter, strain, considered the first real
Londres. It can be considered to be
real restaurant to
over the
pour over the ragoût.'
ragottt.' opened inin Paris. Rivarol, Pelletier, Champcenetz, etc.
etc. were

A Beaujolais wine-cellar
A (French Governmenl
wine-cellar (French Ofice)
Tourist Office)
Government Tourisl

97
BEAUVILLIERS
BEA UVILLIERS

habituis and
habitués and moremore th than
an one issue of
one issue of the Journal des
the Journal Ap\tres
des Apôtres BECARD (Hooked
BÉCARD (Hooked DOse) French term
nose) -- French term for
for old
old male
male salmon.
salmon.
was composed
was composed after after aa good good dinner dinner in in another
another restaurant
restaurant Its snout
Its snout begins to protrude
begins to protrude like
like aa hooked
hooked beak,
beak, hence
hence the
the
that Beauvilliers
that Beauvilliers owned owned in in rue
rue de Valois. He
de Valois. He bought
bought three three name. SALMON.)
(See SALMON.)
name. (See
arcades of
arcades of the
the Palais-Royal
Palais-Royal in in 1790
1790 for for 157,000
157,000 francs.francs.
During the turmoil of
the turmoil of the
the Revolution
Revolution la BECASSEAU -- French
BÉCASSEAU French name for the
name for young woodcock,
the young woodcock,
During la Grande
Grande Taverne Taverne
Londres had
de Londres had to to close
close its its doors.
doors. TowardsTowards the until its
until its seventh month.
seventh month.
de the endend of of the
the
Directoire, Beauvilliers
Beauvilliers reopened reopened it. it. InIn 1824
1824 he wrote his
he wrote his
All the
Ali the methods
methods of preparation given
of preparation for woodcock
given for woodcock areare
Directoire, applicable, butbtil becasseau
book l'Artl'Art du dt cUisinier,
cuisinier, which which for for aa longlong time
time remained
remained an an applicable, are mostly
becassean are mostly cooked
cooked on
on aa spit.
spit.
book
authoritative standard
authoritative standard work. work. Brillat-Savarin
Brillat-Savarin wrote: wrote:
'Beauvilliers had
'Beauvilliers had aa prodigious
prodigious memory. memory. He He recognised
recognised
and welcomed
and welcomed people people whom whom he he had had not not seenseen for for twenty
twenty
years, people
years, people who who may may only only have have eateneaten at at hishis restaurant
restaurant
once or
once or twice.
twice.
'He would
'He would ad advise
vise which which dish dish not not to to take, which to
take, which to snap
snap
up, and
up, would then
and would then order order aa third third one which no
one which no oneone elseelse
would have
would have thought
thought of; of; he he wou would have wine
Id have wine broughtbrought up up Woodcock
Woodcock
from the
from vaults, to
the vaults, which only
to which only he had the
he had the key
key ... But this
. . . But this rôle
r6le
of aa host
of host lasted
lasted but but aa moment
moment and and having accomplished itit
having accomplished
he would vanish.
he would vanish. And little while
And aa little while laterlater the amount of
the amount of the
the
dinner bill
dinner bill and
and the the bitterness
bitterness of paying itit showed
of paying showed clearly clearly
that one
that one hadhad dineddined with with aa greatgreat restaurateur.
restaurateur. BeauvilliersBeauvilliers
made his
made fortune, lost
his fortune, lost itit and
and made made it it again
again several
several times.'
BEAUVILLIERS -- Garnish
BEAUVILLIERS Garnish for for braised
braised meat meat consisting
consisting of of
spinach kromeskies, toma
spinach kromeskies, tomatoes stuffed with
toes stuffed with aa purée
puree of of brains,
brains,
and salsify
and salsify sautéed
saut6ed in in butter.
butter.
BECHAMEIL (Louis
BÉCHAMEIL (Louis de) -- Marquis de de Nointel, aa financier
BEALIILLIERS
BEAUVILLIERS AND BONV AND BONVALET ALET -- These These two two cakes,
cakes, thethe who made
who made his fortune during the Fronde (the rising of the
the Fronde the
recipes for
recipes for which
which are almost identical,
are almost identical, were were created towards
created towards aristocracy and
aristocracy and the
the ParIiament
Parliament against
against Mazarin in in 1648-
the middle of
the middle of the nineteenth century.
the nineteenth century. 53) and
53) got himself
and got himself the Lord Steward
the post of Lord Royal
Steward of the Royal
One of
One of Beauvilliers'
Beauvilliers' old old pupils.
pupils. Monnier,Monnier, set set up up aa Household to XIV. The invention of béchamel
to Louis XIV. bichamel sauce
cake shop
cake shop in in ruerue Monsieur-le-Prince
Monsieur-le-Prince and, and, as homage to
as homage his
to his more likely to have been
is attributed to him but is more been the inven-
teacher, named
teacher, named his his creation
creation after after him.him. This This was was the first
the first tion of
tion of aa court
court chef who dedicated it
chef who it to
to Béchameil
B6chameil as as a
cake intended for
cake intended for travel,
travel, wrapped
wrapped in in tintinfoil.
foi 1. compliment.
compliment.
The Bonvalet
The Bonvalet cake cake was created by
was created Jules Leroy,
by Jules Leroy, head head The old Duc d'Escars said:
The old said: 'That fellow Béchameil
B6chameil has
pastry-cook at
pastry-cook at Machin's,
Machin's, 99 99 ruerue de de Turenne,
Turenne, and and he he dedi-
dedi- all
al! the luck. 1I was serving
serving breast of chicken dà la
breast of crime twenty
ln crème
cated it
cated it to
to aa Monsieur
Monsieur Bonvalet Bonvalet in 1869. Here
in 1869. Here is is the
the recipe
recipe years before he
years bom, but 1I have never had the chance
he was born, chance
for these
for cakes, as
these cakes, given by
as given Philéas Gilbert:
by Phil6as Gilbert: of giving
giving my name to the most insignificant of sauces!'
sauces!'
'Pound 200
'Pound 200 g. g. (7
Q oz., scant lf
oz., scant 11 cups) almonds with
cups) almonds with an an equal
equal
amount of BECHAMEL SAUCE
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE - Was bdchamel sauce really invented
béchamel sauce
amount sugar, add
of sugar, add 55 egg whites little
egg whites !ittle byby little.
little. RubRub this by Marquis Louis de
mixture de B6chameil?
Béchameil? Was this financier
financier a gas-
mixture throughthrough a sieve.
a sieve. tronome and a gourmet,
gourmet, and was he in any way competent
'Blend competent
'Blend 500 500 g. (18 oz.,
g. (18 oz., 2{2i cups)
cups) sugar sugar with with 350 350 g. g. (12
(12 oz.,
oz., in
l]11 cups) in the culinary
culinary art? We do not know, but everything everything seems
cups) butter
butter and and 4 4 whole
whole eggs eggs in in a a bowl.
bowl. When When quite quite
indicate that, in fact, bichamel
to indicate being a major sauce,
oz., lf
smooth, add sauce, being
béchamel sauce, sauce,
smooth, add the almond mixture,
the almond mixture, 175 175 g. g. (6(6 oz., li cups)
cups) must
must have been perfected by one of the queux
been perfected queux de semestre
fine cake flour,
fine cake flour, the the same amount of
same amount rice flour
of rice flour and and potato
potato
flour.
flour. Add Add 7 egg whites
7 egg whites whisked
whisked to to a stiff froth.
a stiff froth. Cook Cook in in aa .
-- cooks
cooks in service of
in the service of the royal
royal kitchen.
kitchen.
Originally,
Original!y, bichamelwas
béchamelwas made made by by adding
adding aa liberal
Iiberal amount
amount
moderate
moderate oven oven (160'C.,
(1 60°C., 325oF.,325°F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) in in a a special
special of fresh cream to a thick
of fresh thick veloutd sauce. Nowadays
velouté sauce. N owadays bdchamel
béchamel
cake-baking tin
cake-baking tin (with
(with. a hole in
a hole in thethe middle)
middle) called called d trois
à trois is made by
is made by pouring boiling milk
pouring boiling milk on white roux (blend of
sprinkled with
frères, sprinkled
frCres, with potatopotato flour.
flour. butter and flour).
butter and flour). When a a meat
meat bichamel
béchamel is wanted,
wanted, lean
lean
'When
'When the cake is
the cake is cold,
cold, ice ice itit with
with kirsch
kirsch icing
icing and and fill
fill the
the
veal, diced and simmered in
veal, in butter
butter with
with a minced
minced onion.
onion, is is
centre with
centre with Chantilly
Chantilly ueam cream (see CREAMS) or
(see CREAMS) or Plombiire
Plombière ice ice
ueanf(see added. (See
added. (See SAUCE.)
SAUCE.)
cream' (see ICE CREAMS AND
ICE CREAMS AND ICES). ICES).
Béchamel sauce (Car0me's
B6chamel recipe) - 'When the velouti
(Carême's recipe) velouté isis
BEAVER.
BEA VER. cAsroR CASTOR -- A A mammal
mammal rare rare in in Europe
Europe but but common
cornmon thick, bind it
thick, bind with egg yolks
it with and thick
yolks and cream. Stir with
thick cream. with aa
in U.S.A. Its
in U.S.A. meat is
Its meat is sometimes
sometimes eaten, eaten, but but has has a a rather
rather wooden
wooden spoon to to make
make suresure the
the sauce does not
sauce does stick to
not stick to the
the
disagreeable
disagreeable musky musky flavour.flavour. pan. Remove itit from
pan. Remove from the
the heat,
heat, add
add aa piece of butter
piece of butter the
the size
size
of
of aa walnut and a few
walnut and tablespoons of
few tablespoons of thick
thick double
double cream.
cream.
BEC (Berk)
BEC (Beak) -- Word Word often often used used in in French
French colloquial
colloquial ex- ex-
Add aa pinch
Add pinch ofof grated
grated nutmeg, sieve through
nutmeg, sieve through aa white
white cloth
cloth
pressions,
pressions, such such as as rincer
rincer le bec (to
le bec (to wet one's whistle),
wet one's whistle), which which and keep hot
and keep hot in
in aa bain-marie.'
bain-marie.'
means to
means to drink;
drink; tortiller
tortiller &t du bec bec (to(to wolf down, to
wolf down, to make
make
short work
short work of food), which
offood), which meansmeans to to eat;fin
eat;finbec,bec, which
which meansmeans BECQUETER
BECQUETER - French slang word
French slang word which
which means'to
means 'to peck
peck
aa gourmet.
gourmet. at
at food'.
food'.
BEC-PLAT ('Flat-beak',
BEC-PLAT ('Flat-beak', i.e. ShoveUer) -- Common
i.e. Shoveller) Common French French BEDSTRAW.
BEDSTRA W. clu,rE-r GAILLET -- Plant
Plant of
of the
the Rubiaceae
Rubiaceae familv.
family.
name for
name for spoon-bill
spoon-bill duck, duck, called
called so because of
so because of its
its flat
flat beak.
beak. The
The flowering tops of
flowering tops the yellow
of the bedstraw or
yellow bedstraw or cheese-rennlt
cheese-rennet
ItIt can
can be prepared in
be prepared in allail the
the ways sui table for
ways suitable for WildWild duckduck contain aa substance
contain substance which used in
which isis used the curdling
in the curdling of
of milk.
milk.
(see DUCK).
(see DUCK). ItIt isis used
used in the preparation
in the preparation ofof Cheshire
Cheshire cheese.
cheese.
BEC-POINTU -- French
BEC-POINTU French name name for for white skate. They
white skate. They callcall itit BEECH. t$rnr
BEECH. -
IffiTRE - Handsome
Handsome tree found in
tree found in upland
upland groves.
groves.
'sharp
'sharp beak' because its
beak' because head is
its head elongated and
is elongated and the the body
body Beech nut
Beech nut is good to
is good to eat. Beech oil
eat. Beech extracted from
oil isis extracted from these
these
oval. ItIt can
oval. can be be prepared
prepared as as ordinary
ordinary skate skate (q.v.).
(q.v.). nuts,
nuts, and second only
and isis second only to
to olive in quality.
oil in
olive oil quality.

98
98
 BEEF
BEEF

nut. rllNs
Beech nut.
Beech -
FAINE - (See above.) Its
(See above.) flavour is
Its flavour is midway
midway fat. applied to
paper applied
Blotting paper
fat. Blotting to the
the surface should never
surface should never be
be
between that
between that of the hazelnut
ofthe hazelnut and chestnut, with
the chestnut,
and the with aa sligbtly
slightly covered with greasy
coveredwith greasy spots, as in
spots, as in the case of
the case horsemeat.
ofhorse mea t.
astringent taste which
astringent taste disappears when
which disappears as in
roasted, as
when roasted, in the
the In France beefis
In France classified in
beef is classified three categories
in three according to
categories according to
case of
case of chestnuts.
chestnuts. itsmarket
its value, which
marketvalue, depends on
which depends on how firm and fine-grained
how firrn and fine-grained
the texture
the texture is, as well
is, as as on
weil as the proportion
on the proportion of ofsinews and fat:
sinews and fat:
First category. Fillet,
First category. Fillet, porterhouse
porterhouse steak,
steak, sirloin,
sirloin, top
top
rump, rump
rump, silverside and
steak, silverside
rump steak, inner parts
and inner parts of the flank
of the flank
and
and round.
round.
category. Top
Second category.
Second Top of sirloin, plate,
of sirloin, plate, top ribs, fore-rib
top ribs, fore-rib
and shoulder ofbeef,
three-rib, shoulder
and three-rib, of beef, chuckchuck end end ofclod,
of clod, and and clod.clodo
Third category. Flank,
Third category. Flank, brisket,brisket, leg leg of beef, neck,
of beef, neck, ox- ox-
cheek,
cheek, shin, ox-knees, shin
shin, ox-knees, shin of beef, knuckle.
of beef, knuckle.
Cows'
Cows' meat meat is inferior to
is inferior that of
to that of bullocks,
bullocks, generallygenerally
speaking, although
speaking, although the fiesh of
the flesh of young
young heifers heifers and and sterile
sterilecowscows
can often
can often be extremely good.
be extremely good. Bull'sBull's meat meat is tough; it
is tough; swells aa
it swells
great
great dealdeal in cooking, but
in cooking, but is is not suitable for
not suitable for anything
anytrung exc€pt except
the stockpot. The
the stockpot. The meat meat of of aa young
young bullock
bullock is usually the
is usually the b9s1.
best.
Good quality
Good quality beef beef is is 97
97 per pet cent assimilable (provided
cent assimilable (provided it it is
is
not eatenlo
not excess) and,
eaten to excess) and, since 1eaves little
since itit leaves residue, is
littleresidue, is easily
easily
digested. Eating
digested. Eating beef beef to to excess, that is to
excess, that is to say, in larger say, in larger
quantities
quantities than than the digestive juices
the digestive juices can can copecope with with (saturation
(saturation
point varies from individual to individual) leads to
point varies from individual to individual) leads to intestinal
intestinal
disorders. The
disorders. The fattier
fattier the piece of
the piece beef, the
of beef, the more calories it
more calories it
provides.
provides. However,
However, an an excessive amount
excessive amount of meat fat of meat fat isis
difficult to
difficult digest, which
to digest, explains why
which explains why so man y people
so many people eat eat thethe
Cattle
Cattle market Bordeaux (French
market at Bordeaux (French Govenrment Tourist Ofice)
Governmenl Tourisl Office) meat and leave
meat and leave the fat. the fat.
Aiguillette de
Aiguillette -
boed - French
.le boeuf French terrn term for for the part which
the part which is is
ialled pointe
also called
also pointe de anlotte and
de culotte and pidce
pièce de boa{. This
de boeuf This is is the
the
BEEF. BoETJF-
BEEF. BOEUF - Beef nourish-
fortifying and most nourish-
Beef is the most fortifying top
top part
part ofof the
the rumprump and and is is usually
usually braisedbraised or poached-
or poached.
-niron
ing of
of ail
all red meat. of beef. BARoN DE
Baron of beef. BARON DE BOEUF - Joint served inBoETJF - Joint served in England
England
ln France, there
In France, are three
there are of beef,
qualities of
three qualities beef, graded
graded at Christmas
at Christmas time. time. It It comprises
comprises the the two sirloins and
two sirloins and aa part part
accordilg to breed, age, state
accordirtg work done and sex
offattening, work
state offattening, of the
of ribs.
the ribs.
includes the meat of bullocks, heifers,
of the animal (for beef includes
of This large
This joint isis trea
large joint treated ted as as RoastRoast sir loin àd l'anglaise
sirloin I'anglaise
cows and bulls). (see below).
(see below).
long specialised in
have long
The English have in rearing and feeding
and feeding Beefsteak. BIFTECK
Beefsteak. BIFTEcK -- This This word,word, of English origin,
of English origin, defines
defines
for beef.
cattle for imported
Durham Shorthorns were imported
County Durham
beef. County aa slice
slice of of beef taken from
beef taken from the fillet and
the fillet grilled. The
and grilled. The namename is is
into France to
into improve the
to improve the strain of beef-producing stock.
strain of stock. given to
also given
also to aa slice
slice of of beef
beef takentaken from from the sirloin, or
the sirloin, conte-
or contre-
The Durham-Manceau
The crossbreeds, Charolais,
Durham-Manceau crossbreeds, Limousin,
Charolais, Limousin, filet.
filet.
Garonne, Normandy
Normandy and and Salers
Salers are
are also for fatteIiing.
good for
also good fatteriing. Instead of
Instead of grilling beefsteak, itit may
grilling beefsteak, may also also be fried in
be fried in butter
butter
lard. For
or lard.
or For recipes
recipes see Entrecbte, Chateaubriand,
see Entrecôte, Chateaubriand, Contre- Contre'
etc.In
filet, etc.
filet, France, minced
In France, minced beef, beef, served
served raw raw or or cooked,
cooked, isis
also called
also called bifteck.
bifteck.
i l'am6ricaine. BIFTECK
Beefsteak à l'américaine.
Beefsteak L'ltrdnrclrNn -- Trim
BIFTEcK ÀA L'AMÉRICAINE Trim
4@ g.g. (14
400 (14 oz.) fillet of
oz.) fiUet of beef,
beef, cut offfat,
cut off mince the
fat, mince the meat finely,
meat finely,
and shape
and shape intointo flatflat cakes.
cakes. Make Make aa little little nestnest in in the
the centre
centre of of
each'steak'and
each 'steak' and slip raw yolk
slip aa raw yolk ofof eggegg intointo it. it.
Serve with
Serve with the the beef beef cakes chopped onion
cakes chopped onion and and parsley,
parsley,
and capers
and pickled inin vinegar.
capers pickled vinegar.
This dish
This dish isis often prescribed in
often prescribed in aa building-up
building-up diet. diet.
i l'andalouse. BIFTECK
Beefsteak à l'andalouse.
Beefsteak r'Ar'IDII-ousn -- Mince
BIFTEcK ÀA L'ANDALOUSE Mince
400 g.
400 g.(14
(14 oz.) beef finely, add
oz.) beeffinely, add to to itit 50
50g.g. (2 oz.,loap)
(2 oz., chopped
t cup) chopped
onion lightly
onion fried inin butter,
lightly fried butter, with with aa pinchpinch of pounded garlic.
of pounded garlic.
Season and
Season and shape
shape into into fiat
flatcakes.
cakes.DredgeDredge with flourand
with flour and fry fry inin
oil.
oil.
Arrange the
Arrange cakeson
beef cakes
the beef half tomatoes
on half tomatoes which which have have been been
saut6ed inin oil.
sautéed Fill the
oil. Fill centreof
the centre of thethedish dish withwith rice pilaf.
rice pilaf.
Dilute the
Dilute the pan juicesleft
pan juices left over
overfrom from frying frying the meat with
the meat with
1I dl.
dl.(6(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant t* cup) cup) sherry;sherry; boil boil down,
down, add add
butter and
butter and pourpour over over thethe beef cakes.
beef cakes.
Beefsteak àI cbeval.
Beefsteak BIFTEcKÀACHEV
cheval. BIFTECK cnevAr, AL - - SeasonSeasonthe thesteak
steak
withsalt
with saltand pepperand
andpepper andsauté quickly ininhot
saut6 quickly hotbutter. Arrange
butter'Arrange
on withone
plate with
onaaplate oneor twofried
ortwo friedeggseggson ontop.top.Pour butter and
Pourbutter and
Charolais
Charolaiscattle
cattle the cookingjuices
thecooking juices over overthe beef.
thebeef.
Beefsteak pie
Beefsteak pie(English
@nglish cookery).cookery). PÂTÉ pArfCHAUD crnuo DE DEBOEUFBoEUF
l'lNcmtsn- -Cut
ÀAL'ANGLAISE Cut littkg. (3*
kg. ($ lb.) lb.)best qualitylean
bestqwi.lity lean beefbeefinto into
Prime
Prime beef redinincolour,
bright red
beefisisbright firmand
colour,firm elastictotothe
andelastic the slices1 cm.
slices I cm.(-!Ginch) thick. Season
inch) thick. Seasonwith withsalt, pepper and
salt,pepper and
touch. ItIt has
touch. hasaafresh
freshsmell;
smell; the fatintermingles
thefat withthe
intermingles with the gratednutmeg,
grated nutmeg, and andsprinkle
sprinklewith withchopped chopped onion onionand and
lean, pepperingititwith
lean,peppering whiteor
with white orslightly
slightlyyellowish grainsof
yellowish grains of parsley.Put
parsley. Putthe theslicesslicesinto intoaapie piedish. dish.Add Addstock stockororwater. water.

99
BEEF

rib entrecôte rump steak

rump<;teak

I , flank: 2. skirt
l, f1ank; 2. skir! brisket top rump
top rump

top rib fillet

contre-filet
con tre-filet

100
\00
 BEEF
BEEF

ide Topside
Silve rs

flonk
Thick flonk
Thick

I LLtI Rolled ribs

Rump sleok
ond
slRt()lN

Shoulder
tul
Best \--
rib n+*=S

B riske t

(huck Neck
English ofbeef
cuts or
EnglishCULS beer

Birteck à cheval Beersleak pie

101
BEEF
BEEF

Sirloin sleok
Round steolt

Porlerhouse sleok
Rump
roosl
(lub steok

Stonding Flonk sleok

rib roost

Short ribs

Rolled rib
roosl

Brisket
(Corned beef)

(huck pol roosl Slew men lt

Stew meo
American cuts
American cuts of
of beef
beef

Wet the
Wet the edge
edge of of the
the pie
pie dish,
dish, put
put a border
border of of pastry
pastry around
around
it, moisten
it, moisten with with aa little
little water
water andand putput on
on a lid
lid of
of pie
pie or puff
pastry.
pastry. Seal Seal thethe edges,
edges, ornament
ornament the top with pieces
the top pieces of
pastry cut
pastry cut inin fancy
fancy shapes,
shapes, brush
brush overover with beaten
beaten egg yolk,
and make
and make aa holehole inin the
the centre
centre to to allow
allow steam
steam to to escape.
escape. Bake
Bake
in aa moderate
in modera te oven oven for 1i to
for l| to 22 hours.
hours. Serve
Serve hot.
hot.
Beefsteak ià la
Beefsteak la russe
russe Oitok).
(bitok). BTFTEcK
BIFTECK A À r.r - For each
RUSSE - For
LA nusse each
serving, trim
serving, trim 125125 g.g. (4
(4 oz.)
oz.) lean
lean beef;
beef; cut away all ail fat and
remove sinews.
remove sinews. MinceMince finely
finely and and addadd 25 25 g. g. (l oz., 22
(1 oz.,
tablespoons) butter.
table'spoons) butter. Season
Season withwith salt,
salt, pepper
pepper and nutmeg.nutmeg.
Shape into
Shape into flat
fiat cakes,
cakes, dip dip in
in flour
flour and
and fry
fry in
in clarified
clarified butter.
butter.
Add 22 tablespoons
Add tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) crearncream (sour
(sour cream,
crea m, for
preference) and
preference) and I1 tablespoon
tablespoon demi-glace (g.v.) to
demi-glace (q.v.) to the
the butter
butter
left in
left in the
the pan.
pan. Put
Put I1tablespoon
tablespoon chopped
chopped onion,
onion, lightly
lightly fried
in
in butter,
butter, on on each
each meatmeat cake,
cake, and and garnish
garnish withwith saut6ed
sautéed
potatoes.
potatoes.
À r.l
Beefsteak tartare.
Beefsteak tartare. BIFTEcK
BIFTECK A LA r.cnrARE
- Proceed as
TART ARE - Proceed as
described in
described in the
the recipe
recipe forfor Beefsteak
Beefsteak dà I'amiricaine
l'américaine but but omit
omit
theraweggyolk.
the raw egg yolk. Serve Serve TarTartare
t ar e ssauce separately (see
auce separately (seeSAUCE).
SAUCE). Bifteck ià la
Bifteck la tartarc
tartare (Ledoyen.
(Ledoyen. Phot.
Phol. Nicolas)
Nicolas)

102
t02
 BEEF
BEEF

((rosse
ro sse

Gite de derriirc
derrière
Tende de
Tcnde de tronche
tronche
Aiguillelte Gite dà lo
Gile 10 noir
noix
{ Tlonche
Tranche gtotse ou rond
grosse ou
Aloyau for roosting
Aloyou (ulolte rond
Romsteck
Romsteck
filel tFlanchet
lonchet
Eovelle

Foux filet
(conlre-lilet )
Ong let

Hompe

(ontre-filet f or roosting
(hdteoubriond
Milieu de

Enlrec6te tendron
P lot de (ôtes
Plat cdtes
f rom contre-filet
(ouvell
couvert
Milieu
Plol de c0tes de Poilr ine
d6couveit poitrine

Gito de devont
Poleron Crosse
(rosse

llotlsuse

(ôtes
Cotes (ouvert
couverl Jumeour
Jumeaux
Poifrine Inl rec6lo s

French cuts
French ofbeef
cuts of beef

Cold
Cold boiled
boiled beef. soruF BOUILLI
beef. BOEUF BouILLI DE DEssERTE -- Left-over
DE DESSERTE Left-over Boiled beef
Boiled beef ànla la hongroise.
hongroise. BOEUF BoUILLI ÀA LA
BoEUF BOUILLI soNcnotsB
r-,1 HONGROISE
pieces
pieces of of boiled
boiled beef,
beef, cutcut in
in thick
thick slices,
slices, served with various
served with various -- Cut
Cut the into large
beef into
the beef large dice,
dice, and saut6 inin oil
and sauté oil or butter inin
or butter
sauces.
sauces. which 100
which 100g.g. (4 oz.,l1 cup)
(4 oz., cup) chopped onion has
chopped onion has been lightly
been lightly
Cold
Cold boUed beef ài la
boiled beef la parisienne.
parisienne. BOEUF rn
rRotn Àr, LA
BoUILLI FROID
BoEUF BOUILLI fried. Season
fried. Season with paprika.Add
with paprika. AddCream (se SAUCE).
sauce (see
Crearn sauce SAUCE).
IARISIENNE -- Cut
PARISIENNE Cut the
the boiled beef into thin
boiled beefinto thin slices. Arrange on
slices. Arrange on aa Boiled beef
Boiled with horseradish
beef with sauoe. BOEUF
horseradish sauce. BoUILLI SAUCE
BoEUFBOUILLI sAUcE
long
long dish
dish inin aa straight
straight row.row. Garnish with boiled
Garnish with boiled potatoes RAIFoRT - - Beef
RAIFORT Beef fromfrom the thestockpot with Horseradish
stockpot with Horseradish sauce sauce
(peeled
(peeled and and cutcut inin slices),
slices), sliced tomatoes, French beans,
sliced tomatoes, beans, (seeSAUCE)
(see SAUCE) served servedseparately.
separatelY.
quarters of
quarters of hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, eggs, watercress
watercress and and anyany other
other Boiled beef àn l'indienne.
Boiled beef BoEuF BOUILLI
l'indienne. BOEUF BouILu ÀAL'INDIENNE
I'tNomNNB - -
vegetabJes
vegetables in in season.
season. Decorate
Decorate the with thin
meat with
the meat thin onion
onion LlkeBoiled
Like beef àdlalahongroise,
Boiled beef substitutingcurry
hongroise, substituting powder
curry powder
rings,
rings, and
and sprinkle with Vinaigrette
sprinkle with Vinaigrette sauce
sauce (see
(seeSASAUCE)
UCE) and and for paprika. Serve
for paprika. Serve Rice I'indienrcseparately
Riceàdl'indienne separately(see RICE).
(seeRICE).
chopped
chopped parsley,
parsley, chervil
chervil and
and tarragon.
tarragon. Serve
Serve cold.
cold. Boiled beef
Boiled beefau pauvrehomme
aupauvre homme (old(old recipe).
recipe).BOEUF BoUILLI
BoELJFBOUILLI
Left-over
Left-over piecesof ofboiled
boiled beef can be
beefcan be prepared in invarious
various pAUvREHOMME
AUPAUVRE
AU boiled beef,
Left-over boiled
HoMIVIE- - Left-over beef,eut intoslices,
cut into slices,
ways, including: boulettes,
ways, boulettes, croquettes,
croquettes, kromeskies, en m fritot
fritot sprinkled withsalt,
sprinkled with pepper, chopped spring on
salt,pepper, onions
ions andand
(i.e.
(i.e. fried
fried inin deep fat), en
deepfat), enmiroton.
miroton. parsley.Add
parsley. Addàa!ittle[ttle dripping
dripping or or fat skimmed off offthe stock'
thestock-
BoUed beef ài laladiable.
Boiled beef diable. BOEUF BotnLLIÀALA
BoEUF BOUlLLI ntABrn- - Cut
L.q,DIABLE Cut pot,aapinch
pot, pinchof garlic,aaglass
ofgarlic, glassofofstock
stockor orwater,
water,and bread-
andbread-
boiled
boiled beef
beef into
into thick
thick slices.
slices. Spread withmustard,
Spread with mustard, sprinkle
sprinkle crumbs.Leave
crumbs. Leave tatosimmersimmerfor quarter ofofan
forquarter anhourhouron onhothot
with
with melted
melted butter
butteror oroil,
oil.and
and coat
coatwith
with white
white breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. ashes.
ashes.(This dish,ititisissaid,
(Thisdish, said,was consideredaagreat
wasconsidered greattreat
treatby by
Grill
Grill ononaalow lowheat,
heat, making
making both both sides
sides golden.
golden. Serve with
Servewith LouisXV.)
Louis XV.)
Diable
Diable sauce
sauce(see(see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Boiled beefwith
Boiled beef withpiquante
piquante sauce.
sauce.BOEUF BourLLI SAUCE
BoEUF BOUILLI sAUcE

103
r03
BEEF
BEEF
IIeUANTE - Beef fromthe
Beef from thestock
stockpot, piquantesauce
with Piquante sauce Bringtotothe boil,coyer
theboil, lid,and
witha alid,
coverwith
PIQUANTE - pot, with Bring cookininthe
andcook theoyen
oven
(see SAUCE) served separately. 2|hours.
hours.
(see SAUCE) served separately. 2+
Boiled beefàt lala provençale.
Boiled beef provengale. BOEUF BourLLr ÀALA
BoETJF BOUILLI pnovsx-
r,.lPROVEN- Carbonades ofofbeef withlambic
beefwitb lambic(Belgian cookery). CAR-
Carbonades @elgiancookery). cen-
9ALE; Prepare as Boiled beef d la hongroise, substituting
ÇALE - Prepare as Boiled beef à la hongroise, substituting for for BoNADES DE DBBOEUF LAMBTc- -Cut
AULAMBIC Cutthe thebeef intoslices
beefinto
BONADES BoEr.JFAU slicesand
and
the cream
the cream sauce
sauce anan equal quantity of
equalquantity ofTomaLO
Tomato fondue
fondue(see(see fryasasdescribed
fry describedabove aboveininthe
therecipe
recipefor forCarbonades
Carbonadesof ofbeef
beef
FONDUE) fiavoured
FONDUE) with garlic.
flavoured with garlic. Sprinkle withchopped
Sprinkle with chopped àdlalaflamande.
flamande.
parsley. Removefrom fromthe panand
thepan andininthe
parsley. Remove thesame
samefat frythe
fatfry theonions.
onions.
Boiled beef
Boiled root vegetables.
with root
beef with sosuFBOUILLI
vegetables. BOEUF BourLLr AUX Arrx lightly,sprinkle
Brown Iightly,
Brown sprinkleininaagood
good tablespoon
tablespoon ofoffiourflourand
and
nlctxss- Boiled beef
RACINES- Boiled beef served withvarious
served with various stock
stockpotvegetables,
pot vegetables, cookfor
cook foraafewfew moments.
moments.
such as
such carrots, tumips,
as carrots, turnips, leeks.
leeks. Futthe
Put thebeef
beefslices intoaacasserole,
slicesinto casserole, season,
season,add addaabouquet
bouquet
-and
Sea salt,
Sea gherkins, pickles,
salt, gherkins, pickles, etc.,
etc., are served atat the
are served thesasame
me garni (q.v.),
garni (q.v.), moisten with lambic (strong
moistenwithlambic (strong Belgian
Belgianbeer),and
beer),
time.
time. bring to the boil. Cover withaalid
the casserole
bring to the boil. Coyer the casserole with lidand
andcook
cookininaa
Boiled beefsauteed àila
Boiled beefsautéed lyonnaise. BOEUF
la lyonnaise. Bourr,rr SAUTÉ
BoEuFBOUILLI slurf ÀALA r,,c, hot oyen
hot ovenforfor2~Zlhours.
hours.
LyoNNArsE-
LYONNAISE - Cut 500
Cut (generous lIb.)
500 g.g. (generous I lb.) boiled beef into small
boiled beefinto small
slices and fry
slices and fry inin cooking
cooking fat fat or butter.Add
or buttèr. Add225 225g.g. (8 o2.,2
(Boz., 2
cups) chopped
cups) chopped on onions, previously fried
ions, previously fried inin butter.
butter. CookCook
together, season
together, season with with saltsalt and pepper. Sprinkle
and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped
chopped
parsley and
parsley and 22 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) vinegar,vinegar, heatedheated in in
the pan in
the pan in which
which the the beef
beef waswas cooked.
cooked.
Boild beef
Boiled beef sautéed Parmentier. BOEUF
sauteed Parmentier. BoEuF BOUILLIBorlLLr SAUTÉSAUT6
IARMENTTER -- Cut
PARMENTIER Cut 22 medium-sized
medium-sized potatoes potatoes into into large
large dice
dice
and fry in
and fry in butter.
butter. When When nearlynearly done,done, remove
remove from from the pan. In
the pan. In
the same
the butter brown
same butter brown 500 500 g. (generous lib.)
g. (generous I lb.) cut-up
cut-up pieces
pieces of of
boiled beef.
boiled beef. AddAdd the potatoes and
the potatoes and fryfry everything
everything together.
together.
Sprinkle with
Sprinkle with chopped
chopped parsley.parsley.
Boiled beef
Boiled beef withwith tomatotomato sauce. sauce. BOEUF BoEUF BOUILLI
Bor.JrLLr, SAUCE
sAUcE
ToMATE -- Beef
TOMATE Beef fromfrom the the stockpot
stockpot with with Tomato
Tomatosauce sauce (see(see
SAUCE) served
SAUCE) served separately.
separately.
Chateaubriand
Chateaubriand
Beef bouillon.
Beef bouillon. BOUILLON
BourLLoN DE BoEUF -- This
DE BOEUF This stock,
stock, which
which
constitutes the
constitutes the basis
basis of of c1ear
clear soups,
soups, is is also
also used
used for for moisten-
moisten-
ing sauces.
ing sauces.
Beef stock is
Beef stock is obtained
obtained by by cooking
cooking lean lean beef with with carrots,
carrots, Chateaubriand -- Thick
Chateaubriand Thick slice
slice ofof beef fillet ta
beef fillet ken from
taken from thethe
onions, leeks,
onions, leeks, celery
celery and parsnips in water for
and parsnips for about
about 4 hours.
hours. middle of
middle of the fillet, weighing
the fillet, weighing between
between 400 400 andand 800
800 g.g. (14
(14 oz.
oz.
When the
When stock is
the stock to be
is to be served
served as as soup, turnips are are added.
added. and li
and lf lb.).
lb.). ItIt isis usually grilled, garnished
usually grilled, garnished with with- Château
Chhteau
For the
For the method
method of of preparation
preparation of beef stock, stock, see SOUp,
see SOUP, potatoes (see POTATOES) and
(see POTATOES) and served
served with
with Colbert sauce (see
Colbert sauce (see
Clear soup.
Clear soup. SAUCE) or
SAUCE) or Maître
Mattre d'hôtel butter (see
d h6tel buller (see BUTTER).
BUTTEP(\. Chateau-Chateau-
Braised
Braised beef.beef. ESTOUFFADE
rsrouFFADE DE BoEUF -- Fry
DE BOEUF Fry lightly
lightly 300 300 g. g. briand can
briand either be
can either be fried,
fried, oror cQoked
cooked in in any
any wayway suitable
suitable forfor
(11 oz.)
(II oz.) lean,
lean, blanched,
blanched, diced diced bacon
bacon in in butter.
butter. Drain,Drain, and and TT-bone fillets and
steak, fiUets
-bone steak, and rump steak. steak.
in
in the same butter
the same butter fry fry l* kg.
1+ kg. (3t(3* lb.)
lb.) beef,
beef, cut into pieces,
cut into Grtlled. Brush
Grilled. Brush the the chateaubriand
chateaubriand with with butter,
butter, andand season.
season.
each weighing about
each weighing about 100 100 g. g. (4(4 oz.).
oz.). AddAdd 33 medium-sized
medium-sized First place
First place under
under aa hot grill to
hot grill to seal
seal the juices, then
the juices, then lower
lower
onions cut
onions cut into quarters. Season
into quarters. Season with with salt and pepper, add
and pepper, add the heat
the heat and and continue
continue cooking, keeping itit aa little
cooking, keeping little under-
under-
pounded
pounded thyme,thyme, bay bay leafleaf and a crushed
crushed clove of garlic. done.
Wh en all
When these ingredients
ail these ingredients are well weil browned, sprinkle sprinkle in Fried. Season
Fried. Season the chateaubriand, and
the chateaubriand, and sauté
saut6 in in hot
hot butter.
butter.
2 tablespoons (3
2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) fiour. flour. LetLet the flour colour
the fiour Fry briskly
Fry briskly but but on on aa medium
medium Bame, flame, to to avoid
avoid the the meat
meat
slightly,
slightly, stirring
stirring all ail the time. Moisten with
time. Moisten with I1 litre (li (lf pints, becoming dry. dry. Keep
Keep underdone. Garnish Garnish and and serve
serve with
with aa
generous quart)
generous quart) red red winewine and and the the same amount am ou nt of stock. sauce
sauce made from from the diluteddiluted pan juices.
Blend
Blend well,
weil, add bouquet garni
add aa bouquet garni (q.v.'1and
(q.v.) and bring to the boil. The garnishes
The garnishes recommended
recommended for for T-bone,
T-bone, rump rump steaks,
steaks,
Cover
Coyer the the pan
pan andand cookcook in in a slow oven oyen for 2| 2-!- to 3 hours. tournedos and and small fil1et fillet steaks are are applicable to to chateau-
chateau-
Drain
Drain on on a a sieve placed over a
sieve placed a bowl. Put the the pieces of briands.
briands.
beef
beef and bacon into
and bacon into aa pan,pan, addadd to to them 300 300 g. (ll (II oz.) mush- Contre-fiIet- Cut ofmeat
Contre-filet- of meat located
located above the loins and and chine
rooms, sliced and
rooms, sliced sautéed in
and saut6ed in butter.
butter. Skim surplus surplus fat fat off of the animal, c1assed classed in the first category of beef. beef. ItIt can
can bebe
the sauce; boil
the sauce; boil it down, strain, and pour
it down, pour over over the meat.meat. grilled
grilled or, after being boned, trimmed trimmed and and dressed, it it can
can bebe
Sim mer gently
Simmer gently for for 25 25 minutes.
minutes. roasted or braised.
roasted braised.
Brisket. porrRrNE
Brisket. POITRINE DE BOEUF -- This
DE BoEUF This partpart ofof beef
beef is used for
is used Grilled. Cut into thick slices
Gritted. slices and grill as T-bone or or rump
the stockpot. ItIt can
the stockpot. can also
also be be cooked
cooked as as Forequarterflank.
Forequarter flank. steaks.
steaks.
Carbonades of
Carbonades beef Ià la
of beef la flamande.
flamande. c.qnsoNA,DEs
CARBONADES DE DE BoEUF
BOEUF Roast. See
Roast. See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking
cooking
AÀ m pr,lrulNDE Cut 750
LA FLAMANDE -- Cut 750 g. g. (l*
(li lb.)
lb.) lean
lean beefbeef (thick
(thick skirt, timesfor
times for roasts.
or chuck) into
or chuck) into thin
thin slices. Season with
slices. Season with salt and pepper,
salt and pepper, brown
brown Proceed as
Braised. Proceed
Braised. described in
as described in the
the recipe
recipe for for Braised
quickly
quickly on on both sides in
both sides in sizzling
sizzling fat fat (lard
(lard oror clarified stock fat).
clarified stock fat). Served as aa remove,
beef Sened
beef. remove, the contre-flet,braisd
contre-filet, braised or or roasted,
roasted,
Remove from
Remove from the the panpan and and in in the same fat
the same fat fry
fry 44 medium-
medium- is
is accompanied
accompanied by vegetables. It is very good
by vegetables. good served
served cold.cold.
sized chopped
sized chopped onions on ions until until golden.
golden. Put the beefand
Put the beef and onionsonions Contre-filet braised ià l,ancienne.l'ancienne. coNTRE-Frrsr
CONTRE-FILET snetsf BRAISÉ A À
into casserole in
into aa casserole in alternate
alternate layerslayers and and add bouquet garni
add aa bouquet garni L'ANClENNE -- Proceed
L'ANcIENNE Proceed as described in in the
the recipe
recipe for Top
for Top
(q.v.).
(q.v.). rump braised
rump l'ancienne (see below).
braised dà I'ancienne below).
Dilute
Dilute the panjuices
the pan juices withwith 66 dl. dl. (l
(1 pint,2|
pint, 2-!- cups)
cups) beerbeer and
and aa Contrefilet
Contre-filet braised
braised A bourgeoise. coNrns-FTLET
à la bourgeoise. CONTRE-FILET snarsf BRAISÉ
few
few tablespoons
tablespoons stock. stock. Thicken
Thicken with with 33 tablespoons
tablespoons (scant (scant AÀ r,c,
LA nouncEorsE
BOURGEOISE - Proceed
- Proceed as as described
described in in the
the recipe
recipe forfor
*t cup)
cup) Brown
Brown roux roux (see (see ROUX),
ROUX), add add aa tablespoon
tablespoon brown brown Top of
Top of rump
rump dà la la bourgeorse
bourgeoise (see (see below).
below).
sugar, stir,
sugar, cook for
stir, cook for aa few few moments
moments and and strain
strain through
through aa Contre-filet cold,
Contre-filet cold, with
with various
various salads.
salads. coNTRE-FTLET
CONTRE-FILET FRorD FROID
fine sieveonto
finesieve onto the themeat.
meat. cARNI Arrange as
GARNI -- Arrange as described,
described for for Contre-filet
Contre-filet jellied (see
jellied (see

t04
104
 BEEF

Beef à i la
la Créole (Cr6ole cookery). BOEUF
Cr6ole (Créole BoEtIF A cnfore --
Ln CRÉOLE
À LA
Put some fat and aa tablespoon of olive olive oil into aa casserole,
and add 2 sliced onions. Cut the beef in large pieces as for
as for
ragottts (see below), and put them on this bed of
Bee! ragoûts
Beef of onions.
Add aa tablespoon tomato sauce,
Add sauce, aa clove of garlic, garlic, aa sprig
of thyme
thyme and and parsley and and aa fewfew pinches of saffron. saffron. Cook
gently forfor 3 hours with the lid on. The beef and the onions
juice, but if
give out juice, cooking the juice
if at the end of cooking juice becomes
too concentrated, add a few drops of ofwater
water or stock. If Ifthere
there
mu ch sauce, boil
is too much boil itit down.
Daube of beef. DAUBE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- This old dish is is prepared
in different ways in
in different regions. Basically, it consists
different regions.
in different
of aa piece
piece of beef,beef, cooked in in aa daubière
daubiire (q. (q.v.) in braising
v.) in
liquor, with white or red wine wine added to it. In some provinces
the meat (usually taken from the rump) is is cooked who whole,le, in
others it is cut into square pieces or thick escalopes.
others escalopes.
Preparation of contre-filet
Preparation (Iarousse)
contre-filet (Larousse)
Prepared in this way, the daubes are very similar
Prepared sirnilar to Braised
beef.
Daube of beef ài l'ancienne.
I'ancienne. DAUBE DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF À A l'nNcrsNNB
L'ANCIENNE
-- Lard aa piece piece of rumprump withwith thick
thick lardoons (strips of salt
lardoons (strips
below). Serve with
below). with aa salad, artichoke hearts, hard-
salad, stuffed artichoke pork)
pork) and and marinate
marinate for for aa fewfew hours
hours in in white
white winewine and
boiled eggs, lettuce hearts, etc.
boiled eggs, brandy,
brandy, together
together with with sliced carrots and
sliced carrots and onions,
onions, parsley,
parsley,
Contre-filet jellied.
Contre-filet jeUied. CONTRE-FILET
coNTRE-FILET A cBI-Er -- Useful for
LA GELÉE
À LA
thyme, bay leaf leaf and pounded garlic. Proceed as asfor
for Top rump
serving left-over pieces of roast contre-filet. Trim the piece, (see below).
coat with strong aspic jelly,
coloured strong
with slightly coloured jelly, garnish with Daube of beef à i lala bearnaise.
béarnaise. DAUBE DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF À ra BÉAR-
A LA sfen-
chopped jelly and watercress,
jelly and and put jelly
watercress, and cro0tons round
jelly croûtons NAIsE -- Cut 2 kg. (4}
NAISE (4+ lb.) beef, taken from rump or shoulder
the border of
of the serving
servine dish. of beef, into 5-cm. (2-inch) square pieces. Lard each each of these
pieces with aa thick thick lardoon (strip (strip of saltsalt pork), which has
pork), which
been rolled in
been rolled in chopped parsley and garlic, seasoned
and garlic, seasoned with
powdered thyme thyme andand bay leaf, and sprinkled
leaf, and sprinkled with with brandy.
Leave to
Leave to marinate
marinate for for 22 hours
hours in in red
red wine
wine andand brandy,
with sliced carrots and and onions, aa sprig of parsley parsley and thyme,
and aa bay leaf. Line aa daubière
and daubiire (q.v.) with slices slices of Bayonne
ham,
ha alternating with
m, alternating with layers
layers of of carrots
carrots and and sliced
sliced on onions
ions
which have
which lightly fried
have been lightly fried in lard or goose fat.
in lard fat. Dry the
pieces of beef, dredgedredge withwith flour,
flour, andand put them in in layers
layers in
daubidre. Add aa bouquet garni
the daubière.
the garni (q.v.).
(q.v.). Bring the stock stoek in
which the
which the meat was marinated to
was marinated the boil.
to the boil, addadd 22 cru shed
crushed
cloves of garlic, and and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain and pour
over the meat.meat. There should should be enough liquor to cover the
enough liquor
meat completely;
meat completely; if not, not, add
add aa few
few tablespoons meat meat stock.
stock.
Cover the
Cover daubiire with
the daubière lid, sealing
with aa lid, sealing it it with
with a stripstrip of
Contre-filet
Contre-filet flour-and-water paste. Bring to the
flour-and-water the boil on top of the the stove,
maintaining an even heat, for
then cook in the oven, maintaining for44 hours.
Serve in
Serve in the daubiire, having
the daubière, flrst removed
having first removed the the bouquet
garni and
garni and skimmed off surplus fat.
Contre-filet with
Contre-filet with garnishes.
garnishes. CONTRE-FILET
coNtne-FILET GARNI cARNI -- The B6arn, this daube is served with broyo instead
In Béarn, instead of bread.
following are
following are suitable
suitable for for this
this meat.
meat. For For their
their method
method of
preparation
preparation see GARNISHES. (Those
see GARNISHES. followed by
(Those followed by the
letter (b) are
letter (b) suitable for
are suitable for Braised contre-filet.
Algérienne,
Algir ienne, alsacienne
als ac ienne (b), anversoise,
anv e r s o is e, Béatrix,
B i atr ix, bouquetière,
b ou que t ii r e,

bour guignonne (b),

bourguignonne (b), Br illat - Savar in, bruxelloise,
Brillat-Savarin, brux e lloise, châtelaine,
chdt elaine,
chipolata sausages (b), Clamart,
chipolata C lamar t, dauphine, duchesseJavorite,
du che s s e, fav or it e,
flflamande
amande '(b),jrançaise, h o ng r o i s e, j ar d inii r e, languedocienne,
(b), fr ang ai s e, hongroise,jardinière, I angu e do c i e nn e,
lorraine
lorraine (b),(b), lyonnaise
lyonnaise (b), (b), macédoine, marqichire, menton-
macidoine, maraÎchère,
naise,
naise, moderne,
moderne, niçoise, nivernaise, orientale, piimontaise,
nigoise, nivernaise, piémontaise,
portugaise,
por tugaise, prpritanière, provençale,
itanii r e, pr ov engale, Richelieu,
Riche lieu, romaine,
r omaine, sarde.

The contre-filet can can also be served with buttered or braised

green vegetables,
green vegetables, potatoes, macaroni and
potatoes, macaroni and other
other pas pastata
products, rich rich pilaf,
pilaf, risotto, and and puréepur6e of dried dried vegetables.
Coquilles (scallop sheUs) shells) au gratin. COQUILLES
au gratin. coeuILLES DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF
cRATIN -- Line
AU GRATIN
AU Line scallop
scallop shells
shells withwith half-slices of of boiled
potatoes
potatoes which which havehave been coated with
been coated ltalian sauce
with [tahan sauce (see(see
SAUCE), and
SAUCE). fill with thin slices
and fil! slices of cold boiled boiled beef cut up
small. Cover
small. Cover with with more
more sauce, sprinkle with
sauce, sprinkle with cheese
cheese and and
breadcrumbs and brown in the oven.
A number of recipes for for preparing
preparing hot and and cold
cold coquilles
found under
will be found HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop
under HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Scallop shells. Daube Jd la
Daube provengale
la provençale

105
105
BEEF
BEEF
Daube of
Daube beeflii lala provençale.
of beef provengale. DAUBE o.lunr DE on BOEUF
sosur ÀA LA re three-quarters. Pour
three-quarlers. Pour inin 1I dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, seant} scant * cup)cup)
pRovENqALE Cut the into pieœs,
PROVENÇALE - - Cut the beef beef into pieces, lard lard them them and and veal stock
veal stock and bring to
and bring to the
the boil. Boil for
boil. Boil for one minute. Add
one minute, Add
marinate for
marinate for 22 hours
hours as described above,
asdescribed above, but but using
using whitewhite wine wine 100g.g. (4
100 (4oz.,
oz., ± cup) butter
* cup) butter and and season
season to to taste,
taste.
instead of
instead of red
red and adding 33tablespoons
and adding tablespoons (scant;\- (scant f,cup) cup) oil oil to it.
to il. Sprinkle Ihe
Sprinkle the steaks
steaks wilhwith pepper
pepper and and chopped
chopped parsley. parsley.
Drain tbe
Drain pieces of beef and put them into a daubiire which
the pieces of beef and put them into a daubière which Coat with the
Coat with the sauce
sauce and and serve. (Recipe from
serve. (Recipe from the the Restaurant
Restaurant
should be
should be large enough to
large enough to take
take al] all the ingredients. Spread
the ingredients, Spread in in Lasserre.)
Lasserre,)
layers, alternating with
layers, alternating with frcsh
fresh baconbacon rinds rinds eut into small
cut into small dice,dice, Entrec0te or
Entrecôte or Steak i
Steak à laIa fermière -
fermilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak àd lala
blanched, diccd
blanched, bacon, sliced
diced bacon, carrots, chopped
sliced carrots, chopped onions, onions, raw raw bonne femme,
bonne replacing the
femme, replacing garnish indicated
the garnish indicated for for that
that recipe
recipe
chopped mushrooms,
chopped mushrooms, peeled peeled and and chopped
chopped tomatoes,tomatoes, poun- poun- byby I!l{ dl.
dl. (!$ pin
pint, cup) Vege/able
t, j3 cup) Vegetable fonduefondue (see FONDUE).
(see FONDUE).
dedded c10ves
cloves of garlic and
of garlic and stonedstoned black black olives.
olives. Put Put aa bouquel
bouquet Pour over
Pour over ilit thethe pan juices, diluted
pan juices, diluted with with white white wine wine andand
garni (q.v.) in
garni (q.v.) in the middle of
the middle of ailall these ingredients and,
these ingredients and, besides
besides thickened veal
thickened veal stock.
stock.
the usual aromatic
the usual aromatic herbs, herbs, add add aa smallsmall piecepiece of of bitter
bitter orange
orange Entrec0te or
Entrecôte or Steak
Steak à lai la forestière -
forestilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak wi/h
with
peel.
peel. mushrooms 1I or
mushrooms or JJII (see
(see below),
below), replacing
replacing the the mushrooms
mushrooms by by
Pour the
Pour the marinating
marinating Iiquor liquor over over the the whole,
whole, add add some some the garnish called
the garnish called àd laforestière
la forestiCre (see (see GARNISHES).
GARNISHES).
veal stock, and
veal stock, and coyer,
cover, sealing
sealing the the lidlid withwith aa strip
strip of of flour-
flour- Entrec6te or
Entrecôte Steak àI la
or Steak hongroise -- Season
Ia hongroise Season the the steak with
steak with
and-water paste,
and-water paste. Cook Cook in in aa moderate
moderate oyen oven for for 55 or or 66 hours.
hours. paprika, and
paprika, saut6 itit in
and sauté in butter.
butter. WhenWhen three-quarters
three-quarters done, done,
Serve in
Serve in thethe daubière,
daubiire, having having !irst first removed
removed the the bvuquel
bouquet add aa tablespoon
add tablespoon chopped chopped anion,onion, lightly fried fried in in butter
butter andand
garni and
garni and skimmed
skimmed off offsurplus
surplus fat. fat. seasoned with
seasoned with saltsalt and paprika. Dilute
and paprika. Dilute the the pan juices with
pan juices with
Entrec0te or
Entrecôte or Steak Entrecbte isis the
Steak -- Entrecôte part of
the part of the the meat
meat 11 dl. (6 tablespoons,
dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant t* cup)
cup) white
white wine, wine, add add 1I dl.dl. (6
(6
between the
between the bones
bones of of thethe ribsribs of of beef.
beef. A A slice
slice ta taken
ken fromfrom tablespoons, scant
tablespoons, scant ± thn Velouté
cup) thin
* cup) Veloutd saucesauce (see (se, SAUCE).
SAUCE).
the con/refile!
the contre-filet or or from
from the rump isis often
the rUll]p often served
served under under this this Cook for
Cook for aa fewfew moments and pour over
and pour over the the steak.
steak. Serve
Serve
name.
name. with boiled
wilh boiled potatoes.
potatoes.
The real
The real entrecôte
entrecite is usually grilled;
is usually grilled; aa slice slice of of contrefile/,
contre-filet, Entrecdte or
Entrecôte or Steak i
Steak à la lyonnaise 1I Sauti:
la lyonnaise - Saut6 the the steak
steak inin
often called
often called rump rump steak steak in in France,
France, is is sometimes
sometimes fried fried in in butter. When
butter. When three-quarters
three-quarters done, done, add add 22 Lablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3
butter.
butter. tablespoons) chopped on
tablespoons) onion lightly fried
ion lightly fried in in butter.
butter. Dilute
These steaks
These steaks are generally boned
are generally boned before before being being grilled,
grilled. the pan
the juices wilh
pan juices with 1I tablespoon
tablespoon vinegar and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3
When the pieces are
the pieces thick, however,
are thick, however, rib rib bones
bones are are leftleft on.
on. add 1I dl. scant t
When
Grilled. Trim Trim and and flatten
flatten the the steak,
steak, brush with butterbutter or or
tablespoons) white
Lablespoons) white wine,
wine, add dl. (6(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, seant I
Grilled. brush with crtp\ demi-glace (q.v.);
cup) (q.v.); bail
boil down, add aa tablespoon chopped
oil, season
oil, season and and cookcook underunder aa grill,grill, tirst
first on brisk and
on aa brisk and thenthen on on parsley
parsley and pour over the steak.
and pour
lowered hea!.
aa lowered Arrange and
heat. Arrange and serve
serve as indicated in
as indicated in thethe recipe.
recipe. Entrec0te or
Entrecôte or Steak
Steak à la i la lyonnaise
lyonnaise il tr - Cook
- Cook as as above.
Sautded. Trim
Sautéed. Trim and and flatten
flatten the the steak,
steak, seasonseason il it and
and sautésaut6 Dilute tbe
Dilute the pan juices with vinegar
pan jlliœs vinegar and white wine. Add stock,
briskly
briskly in in butter. Arrange and
butter. Arrange and garnish
garnish as indicated in
as indicated in thethe and
and thicken
thicken the the sauce
sauce withwirth Kneaded buller butter (see (see BUTTER,
BUTTER,
recipe. Pour
rectpe. Pour over over itit the the pan juices Ieft
pan Juices left over
over from frying,
from frying, Compound bUl/ers).
Compound butters).
having
having diluteddiluted them them and and finished
tinished off off as described in
as described in thethe Entrec0te
Entrecôte or or Steak maltre Grill the
d'hOtel -- Grill
maître d'hôtel steak. Serve
the steak.
recipe.
recipe. with
with MattreMaître d'hôtel d'hbtel bullerbutter (see (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound
In
ln France,
France, a a steak taken from
steak taken from ribs ribs of beef, or
of beef, confie-filet,
or con/refile/, butters\.,
bUl/ers)
of 400 to
of 400 to 500500 g. (about I1 lb.)
g. (about lb.) is considered sufficient
is considered sufficient for for four
four q
Entrec0te or Steak
Entrecôte Steak marchand
marchand .de .de vin -
vin - Grill Grill the the steak.
steak,
persons.
persons. Serve with
Serve with Marchandde
Marchand de vinbuttervin buller (see(see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound
Entrecôte or
Entrec0te Steak ià la
or Steak béarnaise -- Grill
la b6arnaise Grill the the steak,
steak, and and butters).
bUl/ers).
garnish
garnish with Château potatoes
with Chdteau potatoes (see (see POTATOES) and water-
POTATOES) and water- Entrecôt~ or
EntrecO& or Steak à lai ménagère - Prepare as
la m6nag0re as Entrecite
En/recôte
cress. Serve Bdarnaise sauce
cress, Serve Béarnaise sauce (sec SAUCE) separately. (s*, SAUCE) separately. d
à la la bonne femme. Replace the garnish in
bonne femne. in that
Ihat recipe by by an
Entrecôte or
EntrecOte Steak Ià la
or Steak Bercy - Grill
la Bercy Grill the steak and
the steak and cover
coyer quantity of
equal quantity
equal smaU glazed
of small onions, mushrooms
glazed onions, mushrooms and
with
with BercyBercy butterbutter (see (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters) , cooked
cooked carrots. carrots, Pour Pour the the panpan juices,
juices, diluted
dilllted with with white
white
.Grand-mlre'-
Entrecôte or
Entrec0te Steak ià la
or Steak bolll.le femme,
la bonne femme, or or 'Grand-mère' - wine
wine and and thickened
thickened veal veal stock, over the the dish.
dish.
Saute the
Saut€ steak in
the steak in butter,
butter, browning
browning on on both sides. Surround
both sides. Surround Enhec0te
Entrecôte or Steak Steak Ià la minute
minute - Flatten
Flatten the steak to
the steak to make
make
itit in pan with
the pan
in the with 12 12 small
small glazedglazed onions, blanched potatoes
onions, 22 blanched potatoes itit as
as thin
thin as as possible.
possible. Season and saut6 sauté in butter.butter. Add a few few
cut small, and
eut small, and 50 50 g.g, (2 oz.) diced
(2 oz.') diced and and blanched
blanched salt salt pork
pork or or drops of
drops lemon juice
of lemon juice andand halfhalf a tablespoon of
a tablespoon of chopped
chopped
bacon. Cook
bacon. Cook all together. Arrange
ail together. Arrange in in an an earthenware
earthenware dish, dish, parsley
parsley to the butter
to the butter in which itit was
in which was cooked and pour pour over
with
with the the garnish surrounding it.
garnish surrounding il. Dilute
Dilute the the butter
butter left left inin the
the the
the steak.
steak.
pan with
pan with +±dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seanl *t cup) stock or
cup) stock or water
water Entrec0te
Entrecôte or or Steak
Steak Mirabeau -
Mirabeau - Grill Grill the the steak.
steak. Arrange
Arrange
and pour
and pour over over the the dish. Sprinkle with
dish, Sprinkle chopped parsley.
witb chopped parsley, on
on aa dish, decorate with
dish, decorate with anchovy
anchovy fillets
!illets and
and tarragon
tarragon leaves,leaves,
Entrec0te
Entrecôte or Steak iàla
or Steak bordelaise -- Grill
la bordelaise Grill the steak. Arrange
the steak. Arrange garnish
garnish with stoned, blanched
with stoired, blanched olives
olives and serve with
and serve with Anchovv
Anchovy
on aa dish
on dish and and placeplace l0 sJices of
10 slices of poached
poached and and drained
drained bone bone butter
buller (see (see BUTTER.
BUTTER. Co,mpound Compound butters).butters)
marrow
marrow on on top. Serve with
top. Serve with Bordelaise
Bordelaise sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE).
SAUCE). Entrecôte or
Entrec0te Steak with
or Steak musbrooms I.
witil mushrooms ENTRECÔTE AUx
J. ENTREcOTE AUX
The steak can
The steak can alsoalso be be served sautéed, with with the the panpan juices steak in
served saut6ed, juices cHAMprcNoNs
CHAMPIGNONS - Saut6 - Sauté the the steak in butter.
butter. When When three-three-
added to
added to thethe sauce.
sauce. quarters
quarters done, done, add add 88 mushroom
mushroom caps, caps, and and finish
finish cooking.
cooking.
Entrecôte or
Entrec0te Steak ià la
or Steak bourguignonne -- Sautd
la bourguignonne Sauté the the entre-
entre- Arrange
Arrange the the mushrooms
mllshrooms around around the the meat
meal on on aa dish.
dish.
côte in
cdte in butter,
butter, and garnisb dà la
and garnish bourguignonne (see
la bourguignonne (sec GAR-GAR- Dilute
Dilute the the butter
butter left
left in
in the with I1 dl.
pan with
the pan dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons,
NISHES), Dilute
NISHES). Dilute the the pan pan juices
juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6
(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant +! cup)
scant cup) white
white wine,
wine, addadd I1 dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant +±
seant ]1cup)
scant cup) red wine, add
red wine, add I1dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) cup) demi-glace (q.v-),
cup) demi-glace (q.v.), boil
boil down,
down, strain,
strain, add add aa teaspoon
teaspoon
demi-glace (q.v.),
demi-glace (q,v.), boilboil down,
down, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the dish.
dish. fresb butter,
fresh butter, and and pourpour overover thethe meat.
meat.
Entrec6te or Steak
Entrecôte or Steak Dumas Dumas --- Season Season and and cook
cook conte-filet
contre-filet Entrecôte or
Entrec6te Steak with
or Steak mushrooms II.
with mushrooms n. eNrnrc0TE
ENTRECÔTE AUx AUX
steaks over
steaks over aa high high heat.hea!. Lay Lay themthem on on aa heated
heated meat roeat plateplate cHAMIIGNoNS
CHAMPIGNONS - Proceed - Proceed as above. Dilute
as above. Dilute the the panpan juices
juices
and place
and place 33 slices slices of of previously
previously cooked cooked beef beef marrow
marrow on on with
with white
white wine,
wine, add stock and
add stock and thicken
thicken with with Kneaded
Kneaded butterbuller
each.
each. . (sec BUTTER,
(see BUTIER, Compound Compound butters).
bullers).
Make a sauce with
Make a sauce with the residue left the residue left in the pan
in the pan by by adding
adding Entrec0te
Entrecôte or Steak ià la
or Steak niçoise -- Saut6
la nigoise Sauté the steak in
the steak in butter
butter
I1dl.dl. (6
(6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant! * cup)
cup) dry dry white
whitewine wine and and 2table-
2 table- or or oil.
oil. Arrange
Arrange on dish, garnish
on aa dish, garnish withwith Tomato
Tomalofondue fondue dà la la
spoons (3
spoons tablespoons) chopped
(3 tablespoons) cbopped shallots. shal.lots. Boil Boil down down by by niçoise (see
nigoise (sec TOMATO),
TOMA TO), new new potatoes
pOLatoes cookedcooked in in butter.
butter, and
and

106
106
 BEEF
BEEF

(Rober t Carrier)
MAabeatt (Robert
Entrecote Mirabeau
Entrecôte Carrier)

black olives.
black Dilute the
olives. Dilute the pan juices with
pan juices white wine
with white wine and and sauce accompanying itit should
sauce accompanying should be served separately'
be served separately.
pour over
and pour over tbe steak'
the steak.
piattin it"Ttet mignon,
Sautied. Flatten season' and saut6 briskly
tomato-flavoured
tomato-flavoured veal veal stock,
stock, and Sautéed. thefilet mignon, season, and sauté briskly
garnish and the recommended
Steak ài la a
with a garnish and the sauce recommended
in butter.
butter. Serve sauce
Entrecôte
Entrec0te or or Steak tyrolienre -- Grill
la tyrolienne Grill thethe steak,
steak, top top in Serve with
with on
with onion fried in
rings fried
ion rings in butter,
butter, surround
surround witb border of
with aa border of in the recipe.
in the recipe.
FONDUE), and sprinkle with
and sprinkle with chopped
chopped Filet mignon
mignon can be prepared
car. be prepared in ways suitable for en-
in ways
Tomatofondui(see
Tomato fondue (see FONDUE), Filet suitable for en-
treciltes, rumprump steaks steaks and other cuts,
and other cuts, for escalopes of veal,
for escalopes
parsley.
parsley. trecôtes, of veal,
' Entrecôte
EnhecOte or or Steak
Steak au au vert-pré Grill the
vert-pre -- Grill the steak, garnish
steak, garnish noise tte sand
noisettes and tournedos.
t ourne do s.
of water- mignons en en cheweuil - Trirn, flatten slightly, and lard
with straw
with alternating with
potatoes alternating
straw potatoes with bunches
bunches of water- Filets mignons
Filets chevreuil - Trim, flatten slightly, and lard
BUTTER,
(see BUTTER,
butter (see the fillets with strips of bacon, inserting them in a rosette
cress,
cress, and and serve with Maître
serve with d hiltel butter
Mattre d'hôtel the fillets with strips of bacon, inserting them in a rosette
pattern. LeaveLeave to to marinate
marinate for 24 to 28 hours in the summer'
fot 24
Compound
Compound butters).butters). pattern'. to 28 ho urs in thesummer,
(see MARINADES)'
Entrecôte
Entrec0te or Steak ài lala viennoise
or Steak cookery) --
(Austrian cookery)
viennoise (Austrian from 33to
from to44days
days in inthe
thewinwinter
ter (see MARINADES).
with salt
salt and and Take the fiiletsout
the fillets out of of the marinadeand
the marinade and dry them in a
Beat
Beat the the steak
steak toto fiatten thoroughly, season
flatten thoroughly, season with Take dry them in a
lard'Cover
briskly inin lard. Covel cloth. Saut6 as quickly as possible in clarified butter or oil'
paprika, dredge
paprika, dredge with flour, and
with flour, and sauté
saut6 briskly clotho Sauté as quickly as possible in clarified butter or oil.
fried inin lard,
lard, drained,
drained, Serve withwiththè garnishand
thegarnish sauce recommended in the recipe'
andsauce
wiih onion
with rings which
onion rings which bave been fried
have been Serve recommended in the recipe.
garnishes for
vinegar. following are
The following arethe the most appropriate garnishes
most appropriate
and
and dressed
dressed with with butter
butter and and vinegar. The for
celeriac, lentils,
chevreuil: celeriac,
filetenenchevreuil: chestnuts, onions' They can
lentils,chestnuts,
Serve
Serve boiled potatoes separately.
boiled potatoes separately. filet onions. They can
also bebeserved
servedwith with fresh
freshor ordried noodles, rice
dried noodles, pilaf' risotto,
Beef essence.
Beef mseNcn DE
essence. ESSENCE BoEUF - - Concentrated
DEBOEUF Concentrated meat meat also rice pilaf, risotto,
juice Beef-tea(see
under Beef-tea below)'
(seebelow). etc.
etc.
- Filets mignons - These
juice prepared
prepared as
as described
described under
cutsare from the
taken from
aretaken endof
theend ofthethe Filetsen
Filets chevreuil can also
enchevreuil can also be prepared au be prepared au chausseur, d la
chausseur, à la
Filets mignons - Thesecuts
triggle;
of atriangle; poivrade à
hongroise ,àdlalapoivrade, , dlalaromaine,
romaine, en en venison, etc'
fillet. Tbefilet
fillet. Thelle tmignon
migilonis trimmed into
is trimmed intothetheshape
shapeofa hongroise, venison, etc.
ofthe fillet'IfIfititisistoo
thefillet. too Filletofofbeef.
beei.FILETrtt.srDE BoEUF - The fillet is the undercut of
DEBOEUF
its weighivaries
itsweight according tototbe
varies according thesize
sizeof Fillet - The fillet is the undercut of
fillet used for making tournedos and
big, ititcan
big, canbe dividedinintwo
bedivided twoandandthus provide two
thusprovide twofilets
filets sirloin. Tbe end of the fillet isisused
sirloin. The end of the for making tournedos and
mignons. The middle of the afterthe
fillet,after the fat and sinews
mignons.
mignons. filetsmignons. The middle of the fiIlet,
filets fat and sinews
alsobebeused forthe the havebeen removed, makes
beenremoved, makestender tenderand delicate roasts' or, cut
anddelicate
Thispart
Tbis partofoftbe filletofofbeef
thefillet beefcancanalso usedfor· bave roasts, or, cut
pilafsand
bitki,pilafs andquick qtick intoslices, deliciousgrills.
slices,delicious grills.TheThetop topofofthe fillet,less delicate in
thefillet,
pt"pataiion ofofsteak
preparation steakon onskewers,
skewers,bitki, into less delicate in
taste,moremoresinewy
sinewythan thanthe themiddle, roasted or grilled.
middle,isisroasted
sautés.
saut6s. taste, or grilled.
slightly,seasonseasonit,it,dip dip Trimthe fillet,removing
thefillet, removingskin skinand sinews'Cut
andsinews. into thick
Cutinto
Grilled. Flattenthe
Gritted.Flatten mignonslightly,
filetmignon
thefilet Trirn thick
grilled fillet,
andcover withbreadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, pressing pressing servedas a chateaubriand, asasgrilled
slicesififititisistotobebeserved as a chateaubriand,
intomelted
into butterand
meltedbutter coverwith slices fillet,
partofofthe
flatpart theknifeknifetotomake
makethe thebreadcrumbs
breadcrumbs tournedos,ororfilet mignon.
filetmignon.
withthe
with thefiat tournedos,
and lard it with
adhere
adhereproperly.
properfu.Sprinkle
Sprinklewith withmelted butterand
meltedbutter cookunder
andcook under IfIfititisistotobebiserved whole,trirn
servedwhole, trimthe filletand
thefillet lard it with
recommended stripsofofbacon;
thinstrips bacon;ororbard bardwith rashers and secure with
withrashers
a alowlowgrill. Serve with
grill.-Serve withthe garnishand
thegarnish andsauce
saucerecommended tbin and secure with
accord-
cookedininbreadcrumbs,
filletisiscooked breadcrumbs, the the doast'itin
string.Roastit oven or on a spit, fry orbraiseit,
theoven or on a spit, fry or braise it, accord-
ininthe therecipe.
recipe.As Asthe thefillet string. in the

107
107
 BEEF
BEEF
_1 1 1 Filletofofbeef
Fillet beefà i lalapérigourdine.
perigorudire.FILET rnrrDEnrBOEUF
soeuFÀ ALArA,
N-"""'
1 1 pfnrcounolNe -Insert
PÉRIGOURDINE - Insertslivers
sliversofoftruffte intothe
trufreinto fillet,bard
thefillet, bard
~I~~~
1 ! i !~____ ______ it,it,tie withstring
tiewith stringand braiseininMadeira-flavoured
andbraise Madeira-flavoured braisingbraising
:!!:!i'~, stock.Drain,
stock. Drain,remove
removebarding
bardingbacon baconand glaze.Surround
andglaze. Surround
1 ! ! 1 ! i 1 1 withslices
with grastossed
of foiegras
slicesoffoie tossedininbutter,
butter,and tartletsfilled
andtartlets with
filledwith
''G.: _ ~1=0=. =-:--~-I'2;.:-~,< : aasalpicon
salpicon(q.v.)(q.v.)ofoftruffles.
trufles.Boil Boildown
downthe thebraising liquor,
braisingliquor,
1
~--- -----
1
------*
--
2-
2
- - *----- -*-
-~-
1

33- 4T
*_ ---
5
1 1 1 1
-~ --~-
1 1
_u
_ _5- _
--~
1 strain,and
strain, andpour
Filletofofbeef
FiUet
pourover
overthe
hinceAJbert.
beefPrince
fillet.
thefillet.
Albert.FILET
FrLETDEDEBOEUF pRrNcEALBERT
BoETJFPRINCE ALBERT
Lardaatrimmed
- - Lard filletofofbeef
trimmedfillet withthin
beefwith stripsofofbacon.
thinstrips bacon.
,."**,*fl Division of a fil let of beef:
')lt",l".""|il'l:"'"'ifii,,.,.,""*., Slitthe
Slit filletopen
thefillet withoutcompletely
openwithout completelyseparating
separatingthe thetwo
two
1. Beefsteak; 2. Chateaubriand; 3. Fillet steaks;
4. Tournedos; Filetsmignons
4. Tournedos; s.5.Filets mignons halves.
halves.
Fillthe
Fill insidewith
theinside withpie pieces
ces ofofuncooked
uncooked foie gras,seasoned
foiegras, seasoned
ing to the
ing to the recipe
recipechosen. Follow the
chosen. Follow thespecial
special instructions
instructions andstudded
and studdedwith with pieces
piecesof oftruffles.
truffies.Close
Closethe fillet,tietiewith
thefillet, with
for braising,
for braising, frying, frying, roasting,
roasting, under under CULINARCULINARY y string, and
string, andbrown brown ininaahot hotoyen.
oven.Put intoa abraising
Putinto braisingpan pan
METHODS.
METHOOS. withthe
with the ingredients
ingredients given givenininthe therecipe
recipefor forFillet
Filletofofbeef beef
When the fillet is cooked, untie thestring
string and removethe
and remove the Matignon.Moisten Moistenwith port,cook
withport, cookininthe
Wh en the fillet is cooked, untie the Matignon. theoyen,
oven,and andcom-com-
barding. Arrange
barding. Arrange on on aa heated
heateddish, dish, surround
surround with with the gar-
the gar- pleteasasdescribed
plete described ininthe theabove-mentioned
above-mentioned recipe. recipe.Surround
Surround
nish indicated,
nish indicated, and and serve with its
serve with its own juice or
own juice or the
the sauce
sauce withPrince
with Albertgarnish
Prince Albert garnish(large
(largetruffles cooked ininMadeira)
truffiescooked Madeira)
recommended.
recommended. and mushroom
mushroom caps capscookedcooked ininbutter.
and butter.
Fillet of
Fillet of beef
bed with with garnish.
garnish. FILETFrLET DE DE BOEUF cARNr - - For
BoErrF GARNI For This filletofbeefis
Thisfillet of beef isalso known asasPrince
alsoknown Prince ofWales.
of Wales.
various gamishes
various garnishes suitablesuitable for for fillet
fillet ofof beef, fried or
beef, fried or roast,
roast, Fillet of
Fillet of beef
beefon onskewers.
skewers. BROCHETTES
BRocHETTEsDE FrLErDE
DEFILET BoEUF- -
DEBOEUF
see GARNISHES. In
see GARNISHES. In the following list
the following list of
of recommended
recommended Prepared inin the
Prepared the same
same way wayasasFil/ets
Fillets ofofmullon
muttonononskewers skewers
garnishes, those
garnishes, followed by
those followed by the letter (f)
the letter (f) are
are intended
intended for for (seeMUTION),
(see MUTTON), using usingsquares
squares of of fillet
filletbeef, piecesofof
beef, pieces
fried fillets;
fried fillets; thethe others
others are are suitable
suitable both both forfor fried
fried and
and roast
roast blanched and
blanched fried Jean
and fried lean bacon,
bacon, and and mushrooms.
mushrooms.
fillets.
fillets. Cold fillet of
Cold fillet of beef.
beef. FILET
FrLEr DEDEBOEUF FRorD- - Cold
BoEUF FROID Cold beef beeffilfillets
lets
Anver soise, Béatrix,
Anversoise, B datr ix, bouquetière,
bouquetiir e, Brillat-Savarin,
Brillat- Savarin, bruxel-bruxel- can be
can garnished with
be garnished with various
variousvegetables,
vegetables, boiled,
boiled,drained,
drained,
loise, châtelaine
loise, chdtelaine (f), (f), Clamart,
Clamart, dauphine,
dauphine, duchesse,
duchesse, favorite,
favorite, allowed to
allowed to cool
cool andand mixedmixed withwith half-set
half-setaspic jelly. They
aspicjelly. They
financiire (f),
financière (f), forestière,
forestiire, française
frangaise (f), (f), Frascati
Frascati ([),(f\, Godard
Godard can also
can also be garnished with
be garnished with various
various mousses.
mousses.
(f), hongroise,
(f), jardiniire, italienne
hongroise, jardinière, italienne (f), (f), languedocienne,
Ianguedocienne, Full instructions
Full instructions for for these preparations, as
these preparations, asweil
wellasasaa list list
macidoine, massenet
macédoine, mossenet ([), (f), mentonnaise
mentonnaise (f), (f), milanaise
milanaise (f), (f), of appropriate
of appropriate garnishes,garnishes, will will bebe found
found underunder the the entry
entrv
moderne ([),
moderne (f), niçoise
nigoise (f), (f), nivernaise
nivernare (f), (f), orientale,
orientale, parisienne,
parisienne, COLD FOOOSTUFFS.
COLO FOODSTUFFS.
piimontaise
piémontaise (f), (f), portugaise, printaniire, provençale
portugaise, printanière, provengale (f), (f), Jellied cold
Jellied fillet of
cold fillet of beef.
beef. FILET
FrLEr DEDE BOEUF FRorD ÀA LA
BoEuF FROID u GELÉE
cnrEr
renaissance (f),
renaissance (f), Richelieu,
Richelieu, romaine
romaine ([), (f), Romanov
Romanov (f), (f), sarde
sarde This method
-- This method isis mostlymostly applied
applied to to left-over
left-over pot-roasted
pot-roasted or or
(f), Saint-Germain,
(f), Saint-Germain, viennoise viennoise (f). (f). roasted fillet.
fillet. IfIf the
roasted the piece
piece isis big
big enough
enough to to hebeserved
served who whole, le,
Fried or
Fried or roast
roast fillet of beef
fi.llet of beef can can also
also be be accompanied
accompanied by by cover itit with
coyer with aspic jelly and
aspic jelly and decorate
decorate withwith chopped
chopped jelly jelly and
and
buttered
buttered or or braised vegetables, potatoes
braised vegetables, potatoes and and purées
pur6es of of watercress. Or
watercress. cut itit into
Or cut into thin
thin slices
slices and
and garnish
garnish withwith chopped
chopped
various vegetables.
various vegetables. These pur6es should be served separately.
These purées siparately. jelly and
jelly and watercress.
watercress.
Fillet
Filletof of beef London "ouse.
beef London House. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF LONDON
LoNDoN fillet can
The fillet
The can also
also be trimmed and
be trimmed and placed whole in
placed whole in aa shal-
shal-
HOUSE -
HousE This is
- This is the same as
the saille as Fillet prince Albert (see
Fil/et Prince (see below). low serving
serving dish,
low dish, andand covered
covered completely
completely with with meatmeat aspic
aspic
Fitlet
Fillet of beef Matignon.
of beef Matignon. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF MArrcNoN -- Lard
BOEUF MATIGNON Lard jelly flavoured with
jelly flavoured with Madeira,
Madeira, port port oror sherry.
sherry.
aa fillet
fillet with
with pieces
pie ces of of tongue
tongue àd l'écarlate
l'icarlate (salt(salt beef
beef tongue) Serve aa green
Serve green or or aa vegetable
vegetable salad with the
salad with the fillet,
fillet, asas weil
well
(see OFFAL
(see OFF AL or or VARIETY
VARIETY MEATS), MEATS), and and truffies cut into as aa cold
as cold sauce:
sauce: Mayonnaise, Rémoulade, Tartare, etc.
Mayonnaise,Rimoulade,Tartqre, etc. (see
(see
strips.
strips. Cover
Coyer with with a a layer
layer ofof matignon (q.v.), (q.v.), wrap in in wide, SAUCE).
SAUCE).
thin
thin rashers
rashers of of bacon,
bacon, and secure with
and secure strine.
with string. fiIlet of beef àI la
Cold fillet la niçoise.
nigoise. FILET
FrLET DEDE BOEUF
BoEUF FROID rnon ÀA LA r.q,
Put into
_ _Fut into a braising pan
a braising (see CULINAR:Y
pan (see CULINAR y METHOOS). METHODS). NrgorsE -- Roast
NIÇOISE Roast or or pot-roast
pot-roast the keeping itit aa little
fillet, keeping
the fillet, little
Moisten
Moisten with with Madeira,
Madeira, and and cook
cook withwith the lid !id on for 1I hour. underdone. Leave Leave to to get quite cold.
get quite
underdone. Line aa mould
cold. Line mould with with
Drain
Drain the the fillet,
fillet, remove
rem ove the the bacon
bacon rashers
rashers and and matignon.
matignon. tarragon-flavoured jelly,
tarragon-flavoured jelly, decorated
decorated with with truffles,
truffies, pieces
pieces of of
Glaze
Glaze the the fillet
fillet inin the
the oven,
oyen, arrange
arrange on a dish dish on a cro0ton
croûton of hard-boiled egg white, and
hard-boiled and tarragon Ieaves leaves which have have beenbeen
fried
fried bread.
bread. blanched, dipped in cold cold water and and dried.
dried. PutPut inin thethe fillet,
fillet,
.. Surround
Surround with with garnish
garnish dà la matignon. Strain the braising braising fill
fil 1 the mould with jelly, jelly, and
and leave
leave to to set
set on
on ice,
ice, or or inin the
the
liquor,
liquor, skim skim off surplus fat,
off surplus pour aa little
fa t, pour litt le of
of the
the sau""
sauce aro.rnJ
around refrigerator. Turn Turn out onto aa dish,
out onto dish, onon aa foundation
foundation of of
the fillet
the fillet and serve the
and serve the rest
rest separately.
separately. tarragon-flavoured
tarragon-flavoured jelly.

Jl-lliiii.lr1

Special braising
Special braising pan
pan for
for fillets
fillets (D
(Dehillerin. PhOf. Larousse)
ehillerin. Phot. Larousse)

108
108
 BEEF
BEEF

Marinate
Marinate 12 12 small tomatoes in
sm aU tomatoes in oil,
oil, vinegar,
vinegar, saltsalt and
pepper,
pepper, removeremove the the insides,
insides, andand stuffwith salpicon (q.v.)
stuff with a salpicon (q.v.)
of trufres.
truffies. Stuff 12 12 artichoke
artichoke heartshearts with
with green asparagus
asparagus
tips;
tips; place these round
place these round the beef. Garnish
the beef. further with stoned
Gamish further stoned
olives stuffed with
olives stuffed Anchovy butter
with Anchovy buller (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters).
butters).
chopped jelly
Put aa little chopped between each group of
jelly between of garnish
and
and decorate
decorate the the edge of of the with jelly
the dish with jelly cro0tons.
croûtons.
Cold fiIlet
Cold beef ià la
fillet of beef la parisienne. FrLEr FILET DE BOEUF FRorD
DE BoEUF FROID
A LA pARTSTENNE
À r,,c, Pot-roast or roast the
PARlSIENNE -- Pot-roast the fillet and leaveJeave to
cool. Trim, dry, and coat with jelly. jelly. Arrange on a dish, or
on a buttered
on buttered cro0ton
croûton ofbread,
ofbread, or on foundation ofcooked
on a foundation of cooked
rice. Surround with
rice. with small timbales of Macidoine Macédoine of vege-
.tables (see
,tables (see MACEDOINE).
MACÉDOINE). Decorate Decorate the dish with jelly
tbe disb
croûtons. Serve with Mayonnaise
cro0tons. Mayonnaise sauce (see SAUCE).
Cold fillet of beef beef Ià la russe.
russe. FrLET
FILET DE BOEUF A
DE BoEUF À rA RUSSE -
LA m.rsss -
Cook the
Cook the fillet as described in the
as described recipe for Coldfillet of
the recipe beef
ofbeef Small fillets niçoise (lzronsse)
fillel s rià la nigoise (Larousse)
d la parisienne
à la parisienne and leave to get cold. cold . Cut out the central part,
leaving only a 'frame', with a narrow strip of about 4 to 55
leaving cooklng given for tournedos are applicable to small fillets.
of cooking
of
cm.. Q
cm (2 inches) at each eacb end. Cut the cut-out eut-out meat into thin Sm ail fillets of beef ài la niçoise.
Small nigoise. PETITS FILETS pe
PETITs FILETs BoEUF A
DE BOEUF À
slices, and
slices, and put them them back back in in the
the hollowed-out meat case, NIÇOISE -
LA NIgoIsE Saut€ the fillets in butter, drain them and
- Sauté and place
place
pressing
pressing them them in in tightly.
tightly. CoverCoyer with Madeira-flavoured
with Madeira-flavoured each on crofiton of bread fried
on aa croûton fried in in butter.
butter. FillFill the middle
the middle
aspic jelly which has had chopped trufres truffles added. of the dish with cooked qooked French beans dressed dressed with with butter,
Arrange the fillet fillet on aa bread cro0ton or aa foundation of
bread croûton and place between each fillet aa little little heap
heap of small potatoes
cooked rice, and garnish gamish with hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, halved and (or potato balls) cooked in in butter.
covered with jelly, artichoke hearts hearts stuffed with vegetables Dilute the pan juices juices with white wine, add add TomaLO
Tomato fon&te
fondue
dressed with mayonnaise, and lettuce hearts
dressed hearts eutcut in quarters. FONDUE) flavoured with garlic and cbopped
(see FONDUE) chopped tarragon,
Cold fllet
Cold fillet of beef à i lala strasbourgeoise.
strasbourgeoise. FILET FILET DE BoEUF
DE BOEUF and pour the sauce over the fillets. Top with rolled ancbovy
and anchovy
FROID A
FRoID À r,c, srRA,snoLJRGEoIsE -- Prepare and cook
LA STRASBOURGEOISE fillet
cook the fillet fillets and
fillets and sprinkle with with chopped
chopped parsley.
as described in
as described in the
the recipe
recipe for for Fillet
Fil/et of beef Prince Albert, Albert, Beef forcemeat for agnolotti -- See FORCEMEA
Beefforcemeat FORCEMEAT. T.
studding it witb with trufles
truffles instead
instead of strips of larding bacon. bacon . Forequarter flank. pnr-os-cOrn -- Top
flank. PLAT-DE-CÔTE Top partpart of of thethe rib,
Leave to to get
get cold. generally used for tbe
generally the stockpot.
Trim the fillet and coyer port-flavoured jelly. Arrange
cover with port-flavoured After pickling in in brine for several days, it can can be be poached
on a buttered croûtoncrofiton ofbread,
ofbread, or on a foundation
foundation of ofcooked
cooked in water with vegetables and aromatics, and
and aromatics, and served
served hot with with
rice.
rice. Gamish truffies cooked in port, cooled and dipped
Garnish with truffles aa garnish:
garnish: braised
braised red red cabbage,
cabbage, braised braised greengreen cabbage,
in jelly, and
in jelly, chopped jelly
with chopped
and with and bunches
jelly and bunches of of parsley. butter beans, and pur6es of fresh
and purées fresh or dried vegetables.
Decorate with jelly croûtons.
Decorate crofitons. This eut
This cut can also be
can also be used
used for for making
making stews,stews, and and cancan be
Fillet
Fillet of beef
beef steaks. FILETS
FILETs DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF DE ofuru -- Slices eut
or DÉTAlL cut prepared as as Pressed beef (see (see below).
offfillet
off fil let ofbeef
of beef can prepared in any way suitable
can be prepared suitable for steaks, Fricadelles of
FricadeUes of cooked
cooked beef. rnlclDELLEs DE
beef. FRICADELLES DE BOEUF
BoEUF AVEC AvEc
rump
rump steak and and tournedos. vIANDE CUITE
VLANDE Mince 750
culrE -- Mince 750 g. (l* lb.)
g. (li- lb.) cooked
cooked beef (remains(remains
Grilled.
Grilled. TrimTrim and and slightly flatten tbe
slightly flatten fillet,, brush
the fillet brush with of aa piece
piece of of boiled
boiled or or braised
braised beef)beef) and mix with
and mix with 350 350 g.g.
butter or other fat, season and grill under aa brisk heat. o2.,1|
(12 oz.,
(12 potato purée.
thick potato
cups) thick
li cups) pur6e. Add Add 150 150 g. (5 oz.,
g. (5 1|
oz., li
Sautéed.
Sautded. SeasonSeason the fillet and
the fillet and cook
cook in in aa sauté
saut6 panpan in in cups) chopped
cups) chopped onion, onion, and bind with
and bind with 22 wb whole eggs. Season
ole eggs. Season
butter.
butter. Keep slightlyslightly underdone. with salt,
witb salt, pepper and and grated nutmeg, and
grated nutmeg, and mix weil. well.
Sm
Small flleb of beef.
aU fillets pr"rns FILETS
beef. PETITS FTLETS DE BoEUF -- Small
DE BOEUF Small slices
slices Divide intointo pieces
pieces of about 100
of about 100 g. (4 oz.)
g. (4 oz.) each.
each. Roll Roll them
them
fillets eut
of fillets cut aa little bigger than than tournedos. Ali All the
the methods
methods on aa board
on board sprinkled
sprinkled with with flour,
flour, and and shape
shape into into thick, flat
thick, fiat
cakes.
cakes. Brown them them on on both sides sides in in butter
butter and cooking
finish cooking
and finish
in the
in the oyen.
oven.
with aa well-spiced
Serve with
Serve well-spiced sauce: Piquante or
sauce: Piquante or Robert
Robert sauce
sauce
SAUCE), or
(see SAUCE),
(see with aa vegetable purée.
or with puree.
Fricadelles of
FricadelJes of rawraw beef.beef. FRICADELLES
rnIc.a.DELLEs DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF AVEC AvEc
vIANDE CRUE
VIANDE Chop together
cRUE -- Chop together 750 750 g. (U lb.)
g. (li- lb.) lean
lean beef,
beef, 250 g.
250 g.
(9 oz.)
(9 oz.') decrusted
decrusted bread bread,, soaked
soaked and and squeezed
squeezed out, out, and
and addadd
350 g.
350 g. (12
(12 oz., l] cups)
oz., l-t butter, 125
cups) butter, 125 g. (4 oz.,
g. (4 oz., 11 cup)
cup) onion
onion
chopped and
chopped lightly fried
and lightly fried in butter, and
in butter, and aa tablespoon
tablespoon choppedchopped
parsley. Bind
parsley. with 33 whole
Bind with whole eggs,eggs, season
season with with salt, pepper and
salt, pepper and
pinch of
aa pinch grated nutmeg,
of grated nutmeg, and and mixmix weil.
well.
Prepare and
Prepare cook the
and cook the fricadelles
fricadelles as described in
as described in the pre-
the pre-
ceding recipe.
ceding recipe.
glaze. GLACE
Beef glaze.
Beef cLACE DE Boil down
BoELJF -- Boil
DE BOEUF concentrated beef
down concentrated beef
stock to
stock to aa syrupy
syrupy consistency.
consistency.
This glaze
This glaze isis used
used forfor flavouring
flavouring sauces, gravies andstews.
sauces, gravies and ste,ws.
(See EXTRACTS, Meat
(See EXTRACTS, Meat extract.)
extract.)
Goulash (Hungarian cookery).
Goulash (Hongarian cookery). GULY curvs AS DE BoEUF -- A
DE BOEUF A way
way ofof
stewing beef
stewing beef (or (or other
other meat), meat), spicedspiced witb with paprika,
paprika, or or
Hungarian red
Hungarian pepper.
red pepper.
These stews,
Tbese stews, in in Hungary
Hungary as as inin France,
France, are prepared in
are prepared in
Grilled
Grilled small
small filfillets
lets different ways.
different ways. Two popular methods
Two popular methods are are given below..
given below

109
109
BEEF
BEEF

shallot which
shallot which has has been simmeredinin aalittle
been simmered little white
white wine.wine. Put Put
this mixture
this mixture on on thethe croûtes.
cro0tes. Place Place the remaining marrow
the remaining marrow
slices on
slices on the mixture, coyer
the mixture, cover with withfinefinebreadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, season season
with freshly
with freshly groundground pepper,
pepper, and brown ininaahot
and brown hot oyen.
oven.
Medallions of
MedaUions of beef fillet. MÉDAILLONS
beeffillet. rrlfolrr-r,oNs DE DEFILET
FrLET DE BoEUF - -
DE BOEUF
Round slices
Round slices of of fillet,
fillet, rather
rather smaller
smaller than thantournedos.
tournedos. Their Their
weight varies
weight varies between
between 80 and 100
80 and 100g.g.(3 (3toto 44oz.)
oz.) and
and they
they can can
be prepared inin any
be prepared way suitable
any way suitable for fortournedos
tournedos or or noisettes.
noisettes.
They are
They are sometimes
sometimes called called coeurcoeur de de filet
filet dede boeuf
boeuf.
Miroton of
Miroton of beef.
beef. MIROTON
MrRoroN DE DE BOEUF Arrange thin
BoEUF -- Arrange thin slices
slices
ofof boiled
boiled beef, overlapping slightly,
beef, overlapping slightly, inin aa fireproof
fireproof dish dish on on aa
thick foundation
thick foundation of of Lyonnaise
Lyonnaise sauce sauce (see (se SAUCE)
SAUCE) mixed mixed
with sliced
with sliced onions
onions which which have have been lightly fried
been lightly fried inin butter.
butter.
Pour Lyonnaise
Pour Lyonnaise sauce sauce over over the meat, sprinkle
the meat, sprinkle with with melted
melted
Goulash
butter or
butter or dripping,
dripping, and brown the
and brown the top
top in in the
the oyen.
oven.Sprinkle
Sprinkle
Goulash
with chopped
with chopped parsley. parsley.
Paupiettes of
Paupiettes of beef. pAuprETTEs DE
beef. PAUPIETTES BoEUF -- Paupiettes
DE BOEUF Paupiettesare are
Hungarian goulash
Hungarian goulash J. I. GUL
curyns
y AS DEDE BOEUF
BoEUF À A LAu HONGROISE
noNcnorsE -- ballottines (q.
ballottines (q.v.)
v.) made
made of thin slices
of thin slices of various meats,
of various meats, stuffed
stuffed
Fry 1t
Fry l* kg. (31 lb.)
kg. (3t lb.) lean
lean beef
beef cut into pieces,
cut into pieces, and and 22 medium
medium and rolled.
and rolled.
onions, cut
onions, into large
cut into large dice,
dice, inin 125
125 g. oz.,*t cup)
(4 OZ.,
g. (4 lard. Season
cup) lard. Season Flatten
Fla tten thinthin slices
slices of of beef,
beef, season
season wi with
th salt and pepper
salt and pepper
with salt
with salt and
and aa teaspoon
teaspoon of paprika.
of paprika. and coyer
and cover with with aa layer
layer of pork sausage
of pork sausage or or well-spiced
well-spiced force- force-
When ail
When all the
the ingredients
ingredients are well browned,
are weil browned, add add 500 500 g.g. meat.
mea Roll into
1. Roll into thethe shape
shape of of large
large cork
corks, s, wrap
wrap in in thin
thin rashers
rashers
(generous lb.)
(generous lb.) tomatoes,
tomatoes, peeled,
peeled, seeded
seeded and and diced.
diced. Moisten
Moisten ofof bacon,
baco4 and and tie with string.
tie with string.
with 22 dl.
with (] pint,
dl. (t pint, scant cup) water,
scant cup) bring to
water, bring to the boil, coyer
the boil, cover Braise the
Braise paupiettes,and
the paupiettes, and moisten
moisten with with white
white winewine or or
with aa lid,
with lid, and
and simmer for for 11|t hours.
hours. Add Add 22 dl.dl. (t pint, scant
($ pint, scant Madeira (see
Madeira CULINARY METHODS,
(see CULINARY METHODS, Braising). Braising).
cup) water and
cup) quartered potatoes,
and 44 quartered potatoes, and and continue
continue to to cook
cook Remove bacon.
Remove bacon. Boil Boil down,
down, strain
strain the the braising liquor and
braising liquor and
for about
for about another hour. pour itit over
pour over the paupiettes. Gamish.
the paupiettes. Garnish. Ail All garnishes
garnishes for for braised
braised
Hungarian goulash goulash n. II. GUL
cury,cs
y AS DEDE BOEUF
BoEUF À A LAu HONGROISE
noNcnorsB beef can
beef can be be served
served with withpaupiettes.
paupiettes. Certain Certain types types of of garnish,
garnish,
Brown pieces
-- Brown pieces of of beef
beef and
and chopped
chopped onion onion in in lard.
lard. Season
Season such as
such as bourgeoise,
bourgeoise, chipolata chipolata sausagessausages or or small
small onions,
onions,
with salt and paprika. Sprinkle
with Sprinkle 22 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) should be
should be added
added when when the the paupiettes
paupiettes are are halfhalf cooked,
cooked,
flour into
ftour into the pan and cook for aa few moments. moments. Add Add enough
enough covered with
covered with the the strained
strained braising liquor, and
braising liquor, and left
left toto finish
finish
clear brown stock to coyer cover the meat,22 dl.
the meat, (| pint,
dl. (t pint, scant
scant cup)
cup) cooking with
cooking with the panpiettes.
the paupiettes.
tomato purée,
tomato pur6e, and and aa bouquet garni (q.v.). Stir,
garni (q.v.). Stir, bring
bring to to the
the Paupiettes of
Paupiettes of beef
beef can can he prepared àit la
be prepared la bourguignonne
bourguignonne
boil, cover, and
boil, coyer, cook in
and cook in the
the oyen
oven for 2t
for 2| hours.
hours. ServeServe with (braised in
(braised in red
red wine).
wine). The garnish -- small
The gamish small onions,
onions, lardoons
lardoons
potatoes.
boiled potatoes. (strips of
(strips of salt pork) and
salt pork) and mushrooms -- must must he be cooked
cooked with with
Beef
Beef au gros sel. BOEUF BoEUF AU cRos SEL
AU GROS ssr -- Boiled meat, meat, served
served the paupiettes.
the paupiettes.
garnished with the vegetables with which it was cooked,
hot, gamished Paupiettes
Paupiettes of of beef àI la la hongroise. pAUpTETTBs DE
hongroise. PAUPIETTES sosuF ÀA
DE BOEUF
and sea salt. (See
and sea BOUILLON, SOUP.)
(See BOUILLON, LA HoNGRorsr -- Stuff
LA HONGROISE Stuff the paupiettes with
the paupiettes with vealveal forcemeat
forcemeat
Hamburger steak (also caUed called steak à I l'allemande).
I'allemande). BIFTECKBTFTEcK mixed with chopped
mixed chopped onion onion friedfrid inin butter.
butter. PlacePlace in in aa pan
pan on on
À rl
A LA glrunouRcEorsr
HAMBOURGEOISE -- Mince finely 400 a00 g. (14 oz.) beef, taken foundation of
aa foundation of more fried fried onion,
onion, and and season
season with with salt
salt and and
from contre-filet or fillet. Add
from Add 50 50 g.g. (2 oz., t cup)
(2 OZ., cup) chopped,
chopped, paprika. Put the
paprika. lid on
the !id on the pan and
the pan and simmer
simmer for for 10l0 minutes.
minutes.
lightly
lightly fried onion, and
fried onion, and 22 raw eggs.eggs. Season
Season weil with salt,
well with Moisten with
Moisten with dry dry white
white wine,wine, allowing
allowing 22 dl. dl. (t pint, scant
(+ pint, scant
pepper
pepper and grated grated nutmeg, and shape shape into 4 fiat flat cakes. cup) for
cup) for 10 l0 paupiettes.
paupiettes. Boil Boil down,
down, then then add add about
about 44 dl. dl. (i (*
Dredge with
Dredge with flour and fry
ftour and fry inin clarified butter, keeping
clarified butter, pint, scant
pint, scant 2 cups) ligfit Velouté
cups) light Velouti saucesauce (see (se SAUCE).
SAUCE). Put Put aa
them a little underdone inside (they are just
them just right when little bouquet garni garni (q.v.)(q.v.) in in the
the middle
middle of of thethe dish.
dish. Bring
Bring to to thethe
beads of blood forrn form onon the surface). Put
the surface). Put aa tablespoon of boil, coyer
cover the pan, and cook in the oyen, oven, basting frequently.
frequently.
on ion, fried in butter, on
sliced onion, on each steak. paupiettes are
When the paupiettes are nearly done, done, drain drain them,
them, remove
remove
Beef
Beef hash. HAcHrs HACHIS DE BoEUFBOEUF -- This is made made out of boiled barding, put back into the pan and add add 20 small small mushrooms
or braised left-over meat. lightly tossed in butter. Add cream to the sauce, sauce, boil down down aa
Recipes for beef hashes will be be found under the the section
section little, strain, and
little, and pour over the paupiettes. paupiettes. Cook Cook untiluntil they they
HASHES.
HASHES. They They can be made made in scallop
scallop shells, as kromeskies,
kromeskies, are
are done.
croquettes, auxfines
aux fines herbes, d à la honggoise,
hongroise, àd l'italienne, àd la Serve
Serve on on croûtons
cro0tons fried fried in in butter,
butter, covering
covering them them with with
Iyonnaise,
lyonnaise, Parmentier,
Parmentier, dà Ia la polonaise,
polonaise, dà la la portugaise.
portugaise. sauce and mushrooms.
sauce
Beef juices. rus
Beefjuices. JUS DEDE BoEUF
BOEUF- - These juices, usually
Thesejuices, ca lied jus
usually called. jus de Paupiettes
Paupiettes of beef with pilaf. PAUPIETTES pArJprETTEs DE DE BOEUF
BoEUF AU AU RIZ Rrz
viande, are used in building-up diets, and and are obtained by PILAF -- Prepare
IILAF Prepare as for Paupiettes
as for Paupiettes of beef with risotto (see
with risotto (see
pressing
pressing grilled s!ices of
grilled lean slices beef in a special apparatus.
of beef below), replacing the risotto with with pilaf rice.
Keftedes of beef
Keftedes beef (German cookery). KEFTEDES KEFfEDES DE BOEUF -
DE BoEuF - Paupiettes of beef with
Paupiettes witb risotto.
risotto. PA pAUpTETTEs
UPIETIES DE DE BOEUF
BoEtJF AU AU
Prepare
Prepare Hamburger
Hamburger steaks omitting omitting the the onion garnish. Rlsorro -- Cook the paupiettes,
RISOTTO paupiettes, glaze glaze them, and and serve
serve with
This method
method of of preparation
preparation can also be applied to other other Risotto (see
Risotto (see RICE).
RICE). Simmer down down the liquor in in which
which the
meat. It is
meat. is similar to bitki or cutlets cutlets d à Ia
la Pozharsky, which which paupiettes were braised, strain, and pour over them.
can
can be made of
be made of veal, crucken or game, and fish.
veal, chicken Paupiettes of
Paupiettes of beefbeef Sainte-Menehould.
Saints.Menehould. PAUPIETTES pAUpTETTEs DE DE
Ox (beef)
Ox Iiver. ron
(beef) liver. FOIE DE BOEUF -
DE BoETJF - This is less delicate than BoEUF SAINTE-MENEHOULD - Braise
BOEUF SATNTE-MENEHoULD
- Braise the paupiettes until
the paupietfes until
liver. All
calf's liver. recipes for calf's liver are
Ali recipes are suitable for ox ox three-quarters done. Allow to cool
three-quarters cool in the strained braising
(beef)
(beef) liver. (See OFFAL
liver. (See OFFAL or or VARIETY
VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) liquor. Drain, dry, and spread with mustard flavoured ftavoured with
Beef marrow on cro0tes.
Beef marrow croûtes. cno0rgs
CROÛTES A LA L{onnr
À r,q, MOELLE - Poach
- Poach pinch of
a pinch of cayenne pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with melted butter, roll
slices of
slices marrow in
of marrow salted water,
in salted water, and drain thoroughly. Fry Fry in fresh breadcrumbs, and cook under aa moderate grill.
slices of
slices bread in
of bread in butter.
butter. Chop
Chop a slice of of the
the marrow
marrow in small Garnish with
Garnish with watercress,
watercress, and and serve
serve with with the the braising
pieces
pieces andand mix mix with
with concentrated
concentrated veal veal stock and and aa chopped liquor boiled down and strained.

ll0
110
 BEEF
BEEF

Ragoit
Ragoût ofb€ef ( Robert Carrier)
of beef(Roberl Carrier)

good
Paupiettes of beef with vegetables. PAUPIETTES
Paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE DE BoEUF
BOEUF When the
When the meat
meat and and the vegetables acquire
the vegetables acquire aa good colour,
colour,
and serve garnished sprinkle in in sorne moisten with
flour, moisten
some flour, clear brown stock and
nux rfcuvms -
AUX LÉGUMES - Braise
Braise the paupiettes
paupiettes and serve garnished
broad beans,
beans, green green
sprinkle
mix. Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.)
with clear
and a
brown stock
crushed
bouquet garni (q.v.) and a crushed garlic clove. garlic
and
clove.
vegetables: buttered French beans,
with vegetables: beans, broad mix. Add
etc., braised
peas, etc.,
peas, braised celery, lettuce, glazed
endive, lettuce,
celery, endive, glazed carrots,
carrots, Simmer, with
Simmer, with thethe lidlid on, for It
on, for l] hours. Drain, and
hours. Drain,
place
and place the
the
turnips, small
turnips, onions, etc.,
small onions, etc., potatoes prepared in
potatoes prepared in various
various pieces of meat in a large ovenware
pieces of meat in a large ovenware dish. dish.
pur6es of dried
ways, purées
ways, dried or or fresh
fresh vegetables. Put garnish on
Put aa garnish on toptop of of the meat. Boil
the meat. Boil down
down the sauce'
the sauce,
Porterhouse steak
Porterhouse steak-- Cut Cut from the chump end of of the sirloin'
the sirloin. strain and
strain and pourpour overover the Complete the
ragofit. Complete
the ragoût. cooking in
the cookjng in
Pressed
Pressed beef. pnsss6 -- Pressed
soruF PRESSÉ
beef. BOEUF Pressed beef, which is
beef, which is served
served the oyen
the oven forfor 1l]t hours,
hours, with with the dish uncovered.
the dish uncovered.
as an
as usually bought
hors-d'euvre, isis usually
an hors-d'œuvre, ready-cooked in
bought ready-cooked in the
the Garnishes suitable for
Garnishes suitable for beefbeef ragoûts: Bourgeoise, bour-
ragofits: Bourgeoise, bour-
shops, but
shops, but itit can
can be made at
be made at home. guignonne, chipolata
guignonne, chipolata sausages, mushrooms, chestnuts,
sausages, mushrooms, chestnuts,
Take 33 kg.
Take (61 lb.)
kg. (61 lb.) brisket,
brisket, prick with aa thick
prick with thick trussing
trussing salsify.
salsify.
to 10
for 88 to l0 days. process is
The process ragofits can
Beef ragoûts can be moistened with
be moistened with red wine, and
red wine, and are then
needle, and
needle, pickle in
and pickle in brine
brine for days. The is Beef are then
completed more
completed quickly in
more quickly in summer
summer than than in winter.
in win ter. called beef d la bourguignonne. lt is a
called beef à la bourguignonne. It is a popular dish not only
popular dish not only
The pick!ing brine isis the
pickling brine the same
same as that used
as that used for for Pickled
Pickled in Burgundy,
Burgundy, where where itit originates,
originates, but also in Paris, where it
but also
The in in Paris, where it
(scarlet) beef
(scarlet) beef or ox lOngue
or ox tongue (see OFFAL).
(see OFF AL). CareCare mustmust be taken
be taken figures almost daily
figures almost daily on on the menus of
the menus of smaU restaurants, es-
small restaurants, es-

beef isis completely

the beef
that the submerged in
completely submerged in the liquid; coyer
the liquid; cover pecially those
pecially those keptkept by by wine merchants. On these
wine merchants. On these menus the
menus the
that
with aa wooden
with wooden board board and and putput aa weight
weight on on top.
top. dish isis described
dish described as Bourguignon.
as Bourguignon.
Wash the
Wash the beef
beef inin cold water and
cold water into pieces
cut into
and cut pieces to fit the
to fit the The garnish for
The garnish beef àd la
for beef la bourguignonne
bourguignonne consists consists ofof lean
lean
will later placed' Cook Cook in in water
water rashers of bacon, scalded
of bacon, scalded and browned, small
and browned, glazed onions
small glazed
moulds
mou Ids inin which
which theythey will later bebe placed. rashers on ions
with aa carrot
with carrot cut cut inin quarters
quarters and and aa bunch
bunch of of leeks.
leeks. AfterAfter and mushrooms.
and mushrooms.
cooking, drain,
thorough cooking, drain, putput into
into square
square mou moulds, cover Rib of
Rib of beef. c0rs DE
beef. CÔTE BoEUF -- This
DE BOEUF This cut alsocalled
cut isis also called train
train
thorough Ids, coyer
c\tes.It divided into ftain de
into train de côtes dicouvert and
cbtes découvert and train
with aa wooden
with wooden board board and and putput aa weight
weight on on top.
top. dede côtes. It isis divided train
When the
When quite cold,
meat isis quite
the meat cold, take
take out out of of the
the moulds.
moulds. dede côtes couvert.
cdtes couvert.
with gelatine
Coat with
Coat which has
gelatine which has been diluted and
been diluted and mixed
mixed with with When boned,
When boned, the rib isis cut
the rib cut in in slices
slices or or entrecôtes, which
entrecdtes, which
little carmine.
and aa!ittle carmine. WhenWhen one layer isisset,
one layer add
set, add are then grilled (see
then grilled (see Entrecite).
burnt sugar
burnt sugar and are Entrecôte).
another, then
another, another. These
then another. protective covering
make aa protective
These make covering for for Roasted or
Roasted or braised
braised whole,whole, ribs ribs of of beef are excellent.
beef are excellent.
the meat,
the enabling itit to
meat, enabling to keep
keep forfor sorne time.
some time. In big
In big restaurants
restaurants roast roast rib rib of beef isis served
of beef served on on aa mobile
mobile
with fresh hotplate, and and isiscarved
carved in front ofthe guests.
in front of the guests. The garnishThe garnish or
To serve,
To serve, cut into thin
cut into thin slices and decorate
slices and decorate with fresh hotplate, or
parsley. gravyand and sauce
sauceare arealso
also keptkept on on the same trolley in bains'
the same
parsley. gravy trolley in bains-
Beef ragotts. RAGOÛTS
Beefragoûts. RAGoOrs DE DEBOEUF Pieces of
BoEUF- - Pieces shoulder
rump, shoulder
of rump, marie.
marie.
ribare
or rib
or areused forthese
usedfor Bone the
ragottts. Bone
theseragoûts. meat and
themeat and cut into
cut into Roast ribrib of beef isistreated
of beef treated Iikelike aU red meats and must be
all red
Roast meats and must be
piecesof about 100
ofabout l00 g.g.(4(4oz.). Brown inindripping
oz.). Brown dripping or butter,
or butter, underdone on on thethe inside
inside (see (see CULINARY METHODS,
pieces underdone CULINAR y METHODS,
together with
together withonions
onions and andcarrots
carrots cut intoquarters.
cutinto quarters. Season Season Average cooking timesfor
Average cooking roasts).
times forroasts).
withsaltsaltand pepper.
and pepper. Braised ribribofbeefis prepared ininthe
of beef isprepared same way as Top rump'
thesame
with Braised way as Top rump.

lll
III
 BEEF
BEEF

fub of beef
Rib ofbeef
Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with all the gar_
.Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with ail the gar-
nishes recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When rouJt.d,
nishes recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When roasted,
it_is usually served wiih its own juices, clear and strong;
it is usually served with its own juices, clear and strong;
when braised, with the braising llquor boiled down. fi'e
when braised, with the braising liquor boiled down. The
left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes. Decorating a aroast
left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes, Decorating roast(French GovernmentTOlJrisl
(French GOl'ernment TouristOffice)
Office)
recipes for which are given under EUINCE. HASH:
recipes for which are given under ÉMINCÉ, HASH,
SALPICON Braised rib rib ofof beef. proceed asas
SALPICON. Braised cdrn DE
beef.CÔTE DEBOEUF nR.clsfE- - Proceed
BoEUFBRAISÉE
Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Cover with pieces of fat
Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Coyer with pieces of fat described in
described in the
the recipe
recipefor for Braised
Braisedbeef. beef.
beaten flat, and tie with string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle Note. To
beaten fiat, and tie To braise,
braise, use piecesof rib,cut
ofrib, thickslices
cutinin thick
with salt, put in with string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle Note. usepieces weigh-
slices weigh-
with salt, put in aa roasting pan and
roasting pan and cook
cook inln ihe on"rr.
the oyen, ing from 22 toto 33 kg.
ing from (t+ toto 6}
ke. (4! 6| lb.).
lb.).
uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot
uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot Cotd
Co rib of
Id rib beef ài la
of beef la mode.
mode.CÔTE c6rs DEor BOEUF
BoEUF FROIDE
FRoTDE ÀALA uooE
re,MODE
until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the asfor
until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the Proceed as
-- Proceed Top rump
for Top rump àdla la mode
mode (see below).
(see below).
recipe.
recipe. Rib of
Rib of beef
beef with with garnish.
garnish" CÔTE oOTE DE DE BOEUF GARNTE- - For
BoEUF GARNlE For
garnishes suitable
gamishes suitable for for roast
roast or or braised
braised ribsribs of of beef,
beef, see
see
GARNISHES. The
GARNISHES. following are
The following are the principal gamishes:
the principal garnishes:
letter
let ter (b)(b) following
following the the name
name of of the garnish indicates
the garnish indicates that
that
itit is
is intended
intended for for braised
braised rib rib ofof beef:
beef:
B our g eo ise (b),
Bourgeoise (b), bourguignonne
bourguignonne (b), (b), bruxelloise,
brux e t Io is e,chipolata
chipolata
sausages (b),
sausages (b), dauphine,
dauphine, duchesse,
duchesse, flamande,
flamande, hongroise,
hongroise,
jardiniire, loruaine, lyonnaise,
jardinière, lorraine, lyonnaise, macédoine,
maci do ine, maraîchère,
maraichire, milan-milan-
aise, moderne,
aise, moderne, nivernaise, parisienne, piémontaise,
nivernaise, parisienne, piimontaise, potatoes
potatoes
cooked in
cooked in various
various ways, portugaise, Richelieu.
ways, portugaise, Richelieu.
In addition
In addition to to these garnishes, roast
these gamishes, roast ribs
ribs ofof beef
beef can
can bebe
served with
served with buttered
buttered or or braised
braised vegetables,
vegetables, and and purées
purdes of of
vegetables.
Jellied rib of beef. c0rB DE
beef. CÔTE oe BOEUF
BoEr.rF À rl GELÉE
A LA cnrEr -- Trim
Trim left-
left_
over rib
over rib ofof beef, cover with
beef, coyer with slightly
slightly coloured
coloured aspic aspic jelly,
garnish
garnish with with chopped
chopped jellyjelly and and watercress,
watercress, and and decorate
decoraie
the border
border of of the
the dish with jelly jelly croûtons.
crofftons.
lellied rib
Jellied rib of of beef can can be accompanied by
be accompanied by various
various plain
plain
or mixed salads.
mixed salads.
Roast rib ofbeef(boned and rolled)
Roast rib of beef (boned and rolled) Roast rib
Roast rib of of beef ià l'anglaise.
I'anglaise. CÔTE cOrs DE or BOEUF norm ÀA
BoEUF RÔTIE
L'ANGLAISE -
L',q,NGLarsn - Roast
Roast the the rib as as described
described in in the
the preceding
Roasting
Roasting on spil. Trim
on aaspit. the rib.
Trim the Tie with
rib. Tie with string as described
string as recipes
described recipes but allow a little more cooking time.
above. Brush with
above. Brush with dripping, season with
dripping, season salt, and
with salt, and cook
cook in in Serve with
Serve with Yorkshire
Yorkshire pudding,
pudding, baked baked in in the
the dripping-
dripping_
front
front of
ofaa hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate
hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate pan if
pan the joint
if the joint is cooked on a spit, or in an
a spit, an ordinary-pai,
ordinary pan,
heat
heat to
to ensure
ensure that
that the meat cooks
the meat cooks through.
through. TakeTake offthe
off the spit
spit using
using beef beef drippings
drippings for fat, ifif the the joint
joint is cooked
cooked in thi the oyen.
oven.
and
and proceed
proceed as as described
described above.
above.
Bib of beef
Rib of beef roasted
roasted on on aa spit
spit should
should be taken off
be taken off the
the spit
spit
and kept in
and kept in aa slow
slow oven
oyen 30 minutes to
30 minutes to t1 hour,
hour, depending
depending
on size (this
on size (this applies
applies to to whole
whole roast
roast rib).
rib). The
The cooking
cooking is is thui
thus
completed
completed and and thethe meat settles in
meat settles the gentle
in the heat lnd
gentle heat and be_ be-
comes more tender.
cornes more tender.
Rib of
Rib beef ià la
of beef bouquetière. c6rr
la bouquetilre. CÔTE DE BOEUF A
DE BoEuF À LA LA
BoueuErriRn
BOUQUETIÈRE -- Cut Cut aa thick slice (containing
thick slice (containing two bones) off
two bones) off
trimmed rib
aa trimmed rib of
ofbeef. Season this
beef. Season ofrib
slice of
this slice rib and cook in
and cook in aa
sautépan
saut6 pan in in clarified
clarified butter.
butter.
_ Drain,
Drain, andand garnish
garnish withwith carrots
carrots andand turnips
tumips cutcut toto aa uni-
uni-
form size, French
form size, French beans,beans, artichoke
artichoke heartihearts stuffed
stuffed withwith
garden
garden peas,
peas, new
new potatoes cooked in
potatoes cooked rn butter,
butter, florets
fiorets of of
cauliflower.
caulifiower.
Dilute
Dilute thethe pan juices
pan juices withwith Madeira,
Madeira, add add aa little
little demi-
demi-
Sirloinjoint
Sirloin jointready
readyfor
for roasting
roasting

glace(q.v.)
glace (q.v.)andand pour
pourover the rib
over the rib of
ofbeef.
beef.

tt2
112
 BEEF
BEEF

Roas! beef.
Roast ROSBIF -- Rib
beef. nossr fillets (U.S.
roasts, fillets
Rib roaSts, (U.S. tenderloin)
tenderloin) becooked
be together, without
cooked together, boning. ItItisisnot
without boning. found inin retail
not found retail
sirloin
sirloin and rump make
and rump roasts. The
excellent roasts.
make excellent The meat
meat should
should markets in
markets in U.S., but aa sirloin
U.S., b:ut sir/oin roast
roast can substitute in
can substitute in the
the
be covered with
be covered dripping or
with dripping other fat
or other fat and roasted in
and roasted in aa following
followingrecipes.recipes.
moderately hot
moderately hot oven (see CULINARY
oyen (see CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Aver- Aver- When
When the ,idoin is
the sirloin cooked whole,
is cooked whole, the the top
top has has to to bebe
cooking timesfor
agecooking
age limes for roasts).
roaslS). trimmed
trimmed otr slightly and
offslightly and the ligament all
theligament al! along
along thethe chine
chine hashas
just
Rump of
Rump beef. culorrE
of beef. CULOTTE DE BOEUF --. This
DE BoEUF This cut cut represents
represents toto be severed in
be severed severa! places.
in several The fillet,
places. The fillet, which is inside
which is just inside
what isis left
what left of the hindquarter
of the hindquarter after after the the sirloin
sirloin has been cut
has been eut this cut,
this eut, should
should have quite aa lot
have quite offat
lot of fat left on it;
left on some of
it; some ofthe
the
off. ItItisis first
off. category beefand
first category braised and
beef and isis braised and usedused for for stocks.
stocks. fat surrounding itit should
fat surrounding should be be cut off. After
eut off. After having
having been been thus
th us
Thetop
The top of ofthethe rump, commonlyknown
rump, commonly known as aspidce
pièce de de boeuf,is
boeuf, is trimmed,
trimmed, the the joint seasoned with
joint isis seasoned salt and
with salt pepper and
and pepper and tied
tied
served
served as remove. All
as aa remove. Ali thethe recipes applicable to
recipes applicable to itil will
will bebe with
with string.
string.
found
found under under Top Top rump (see below).
rump (see below). The sirloin,
The served as
sirloin, served as aa meat remove, isis generally
meat remove, generally roasted.
roasted.
Rump
Rump steak. ROMSTECK -- Rump
steak. RoMsrEcK Rump steak steak is slicc of
i5 aa slice of beef,
beef, ItIl isis cooked
cooked eithereither on on aa spit or in
spit or oyen and
the oven
in the and keptkept aa little
little
varying in
varying thickness, taken
in thickness, taken from from the the toptop of sirloin (U.S.
of sirloin (lI.S. face
face underdone inside.
underdone inside. ItIt cancan also
also be braised, cut
be braised, eut into pieces 22 to
into pieces to
of the rump),
of the rump), or lower part
the lower
or the part of of the sirloin, formed
the sirloin, formed by by the
the kg. (4
33 kg. (4t toto 6| lb.), in
lit lb.), manner (see CULINARY
usual manner
the usual
in the (see
CULINARY
thick, fJeshy parts
thick, fleshy which cover
parts which cover the pel vic girdle'
the pelvic girdle. This This cuteut isis METHODS, Braising).
METHODS, Braising).
used for
used roasts and
for roasts and isis also excellent when
also excellent braised, but
when braised, bU! isis Sirloin ià la
Sirloin d'Albuféra (CarGme's
la d'Albuf6ra recipe). lroYlu
(Carême's recipe). ALOYAU À r.l
A LA
chiefly preferred
chiefly preferred grilled.grilled. I)'ALDUFÉRA -- 'Prepare,
o'llsuFERA 'Prepare, braise braise and glaze a
and glazn a sirloin.
sirloin. PourPour
Rump
Rump steak steak can can be cooked in
be cooked any way
in any suitable for
way suitable for beef-
beef- round ita
round ragoût made
it a ragofit made in the following
in the manner: Put
following manner: sorne of
Put some of
pan juices butter into
(see
steaks and
steaks and fillets.
tillets. the pan
the juices and and aa little fresh butter
little fresh into Tortue
Tortue saucesauce (see
Grilled.
Grilled. ProceedProcecd as described for Entecdte,
as described Entrecôte, grilled.gri/led. SAUCE), add
SAUCE), add to to itit aa plateful
plateful each each of lightly fried
of lightly fried calves'
calves'
Sautied.
Sautéed. Proceed Proeeed as described fot
as described for Entrec|te,
Entrecôte, sautied.
sautéed. sweetbreads, salt
sweetbreads, ton gue and
beef tongue
sait beef mushrooms. Bring
and mushrooms. Bring the the
Salt and smoked beef.
and smoked beef. soeuF
BOEUF s,c,Lf SALÉ er ET ruuf
FUMÉ - SuitableSuitable ragoût to
ragofit the boil
to the boil once. Gamish with
once. Garnish sliced fillets of young
with sliced fillets of young
principally for brisket, but
principally but top rump rump and shoulder shoulder of of beef
beef rabbits d
rabbits à ta Decorate with
Orly. Decorate
la Orly. with attelets (q.v.); put
allelelS (q.v.); put onon thethe
(chuck)
(chuck) can also be prepared in this
be prepared thi, manner.
manner. attelet first aa plump
alle/et first plump double cock's comb,
double cock's then aa slice
comb, then of rabbit
slice of rabbit
After having been been kept in brine (in (in the same way way as as ox dà la
la Orly,
Orly, then another cock's
tben another and a
comb and
cock's comb a glazed
glazed black
black
tongue) for a period
tongue) penod of according to season, these cuts
of time according cuts trufle.'
truffle.'
are desalted and cooked in in water, allowing 15 minutes per
15 minutes per Braised sirloin
Braised sirloin. ALoYAU I3RAISÉ -
ALOYAU nnxsf - Trim
Trun a piece of
a piece of sirloin,
sirloin,
500 g. (1 (1 lb.). cutting
cutting across the joint,
across the joint, with the grain
with the grain ofof the Lard it
meat. Lard
the meat. it
beef is served hot, accompanied
Salt beef accompanied by by various
valious vegetables
vegetables with lardoons, which
thick lardoons,
with thick have been
which have seasoned with
been seasoned salt,
with salt,
(braised red or green cabbage, sauerkraut) and, and, in in general,
general, pepper and
pepper spices, sprinkled
and spiees, with chopped parsley
sprinkled with chopped parsJey and and
with all vegetables normally served with
ail vegetables with poached
poached beef' beef. It Il is
is steeped for
steeped for an ho ur in
an hour sprinkling of
in aa sprinkling brandy with
of brandy with carrots
carrots
also used
also used in potie. potée. To To serve
serve cold,
cold, cool under aa press,
cool under press, as as and
and onions.
onions. TieTie with
with string and braise.
string and braise.
described in
described in the earlier recipe recipe for Pressed beef. beef, Reduce pan
Reduce pan juices,
juiees, skim off fat,
skim off fat, strain, and pour
strain, and pour over
over the
the
Smoked beef,
Smoked beef, whichwhich must must be pickled in
be pickled in brine
brine before sirloin before
sirloin serving.
before serving.
smoked, is prepared in the same way as salt
being smoked, salt beef'
beef. lt It is
is Braised with variou
sirloin with
Braised sirloin garnishes. ALoYAU
varions garnishes. BRAIsf AvEc
ALOYAU BRAiSÉ AVEC
served hot hot or cold. DIVERSES - Braise
GARNITURES DIvERsEs
GARNITURES Braise the
-
the sirloin as
sirloin as described above.
described above.
Saut6s of
Sautés of beef.
beef. SAUTÉS
s.q,urFs DE BoEUF -- These
DE DOEUF These are prepared
are prepared Serve with
Serve with oneone ofof the following gamishes,
the following garnishes, disposed around
disposed around
from parts
from parts of rump rump and and centre
centre fil fillet
let eut in pieces.
cut in pieces. Season the meat or
the meat or served separately:
served separa Bourgeoise, bruxelloise,
tely : Bourgeoise, bruxelloise,
with salt and pepper. pepper. Sauté
Saut6 briskly in butter, keeping keeping under-under- celery, chipolata sausages,
celery, chipolata sausages, sauerkraut, kohlrabi, Dubarry,
sauerkraut, kohlrabi, Dubarry,
done
done on the imide. inside. Remove
Remove from from the pan as soon as
as soon meat
as the meat duchesse, flamande,
duchesse, jardinidre, milanaise,
flarnande, jardinière, milanaise, napolitaine,
napolitaine,
is browned, and
is and keep Dilute the
hot. Dilute
keep hot. juices with
the pan juices with wine,
wine, noodles, .piimontaise,
noodles, piémontaise, various various po ta toes, provengale,
potatoes, Riche'
provençale, Riche-
add thickened
add thickened brown brown veal veal stock
stock or or demi-glace
demi-glace (q. (q.v.), boil
v.), boil lieu, risol/o
lieu, GARNISHES).
(see GARNISHES).
risotto (see
down, and
down, and strain.
strain. Put Put the pieces of
the pieees of beef back back into into the pan,
the pan, Sirloin, left-over
Sidoin, left-over pieces braised or
pieces braised or roast.
roast. DESSERTE
DESSERTE DE DE

pour the the sauce

sauce over them, and
over them, and reheat without boiling'
without boiling. ALOY AU -- Ali
L'ALovAU
L' All the
the recipes for the
given for
recipes given preparation of
the preparation of Rib
Rlb
Saut6s of
Sautés of fillet of beef
fillet of beef can can be be cooked
cooked with with various
various gar- gar- ofbeef or Contre-filet
of beef or Contre-filet are applicable to
are applicable sirloin.
to sirloin.
nishes: mushrooms cooked
nishes; cooked in in the
the same butter as
same butter the beef;
as the beef; Bones which remain
Bones which remain afterafter the meat has
the meat has been completely
been completely
truffies, cut
tru.ffles, cut inin thick
thick sliees, lightly tossed
slices, lightly tossed in in the
the same butter;
same butter: used up can
used up can be be uscd
used forfor makiog
making Beef stock (sœ
Beef stock (see STOCKS)-
STOCKS).
potatoes, eut
potatoes, cut in in dice frid inin butter,
and fried
dice and added to
butter, added to the
the beef
beef Roa$ sirloin.
Roast sirloin. ALOYAU
ALoYAU RÔTI n6n -- This
This can
can be
be cooked whole or
cooked whole or
after itit has
after has been transferred into
been transferred into aa timbale;
timbale; fresh fresh buttered or or in pieces.
in pieces. Cut off the
Cut off the top
top.and trim the
and trim the sirloin, light
leaving aa Iigbt
sirloin, leaving
glazed vegeta
glazed vegetables. bles. layer of
layer fat on
of fat on the fillet,
the fille t, to prevent itit from
to prevent from drying during
drying during
following methods
The following
The methods are are alsoalso suitable
suitable for for preparing
preparing cooking. Tie
cooking. with string.
Tie with string.
sautés
saut6s of beef; àit la
of beef: h crème,
crime, the the pan juices being
pan juices diluted with
being diluted with Roast it, on
Roast it, on aa spit in the
or in
spit or oven, by
the oven, following the
by following instruc-
the instruc-
with fresh cream ;àd la
fresh cream; bourguignonne, given for
tions given for the cooking of
the cooking of red
red meats
meats (sœ (see CULINARY
Madeira and
Madeird and moistened
moistened with la bourguignonne, tions CULINARY
juices diluted
pan juices
pan diluted with with red wine, with
red wine, with aa garnish
garnish of of lean
lean METHODS). Garnish
METHODS). Garnish with with watercress
watercress and and serve its own
serve its own
rashers of
rashers of bacon, blanched and
bacon, blanched and fried,fried, andand smal! small glazed
glazed juices separately.
juices separately.
onions and
onions mushrooms sautéed
and mushrooms saut€ed in in butter; provengale, the
butter; àd lala provençale, the Roast sirloin ài l'anglaise.
Roast sirloin l'anglaise. ALOYAU
ALoYAU RÔTI L'lNctrusn - Trim
nOn ÀA L'ANGLAISE- Trim
juices diluted
pan juices
pan diluted withwith whitewhite wine wine and and moistened
moistened with with and tie
and tie the joint, enclose
the joint, enclose in in paste of flour and
made offlour
paste made and hot water,
hot water,
TomalOfondue
Tomato fondue (see TOMATO).
(seeTOMATO). with one
with quarter of
one quarter its weight
of its of chopped
weight of chopped and and salted
salted beef fat
beef fat
Sauté
Saut6 of of beef
beef can also be
can al50 be served surrounded with
served surrounded with aa border
border added to
added to il.it. When
When nearly cooked, remove
nearly cooked, remove the the crust
crust andand
of lice
of pilaf or
rice pilaf risotto.
or risotto. brown the
brown joint.
the joint.
Shoulder
Shoutder of of beef.
beef. PALERON
PALERoN DE BoEUF -- Fleshy
DE BOEUf Fleshy part part ofof the
the Serve with
Serve Yorkshire pudding
with Yorkshire (q.v.)
pudding (q. cooked in
v.) cooked in the roasting
the roasting
shoulder.ItIt isis mainly
shoulder. mainly usedused forfor ma making stock, but
king stock, but itit can
canalso
also bebe pan, and
pan, and the joint's own
the joint's juices.
own juices.
braised,
braised, as as top rump, and
top rump, made into
and made into stews.
stews. Roas! with various
sirloin \\llh
Roast sirloin gamishes. ALOYAU
various gamishes. ALoYAU RÔTI n6n -- Roast
Roast
Sirloin. ALOYAU
Sirioin. ALoyAUDE BoEUF-
DE130EUf Thiseut,
- This whichisisc1assed
cut,which classed in in the
the the joint asasdescribed
thejoint above.Serve
described above. with one
Serve with oneof garnishes
thegamishes
of the
firstcategory
tirst category of of beef,
beef,isisthe part of
the part ofthe animal from
theanimal from the hook
thehook recommended for
recommended for Braised The sir/oin,
sirloin. The
Braised sir/oin. braisedor
sirloin, braised or
totothe
the first ribs. ItIt includes
firstribs. includesthe contre-filet or
thecontre-filet or faux-filet
faux-filer (U.S. (U.S. roasted, can
roasted, canal50also be accompanied by
beaccompanied by the recom-
garnishes recom-
the garnishes
sirloin)and
5irloin) and the thebeef
beef fillet tenderloin). ItIt isisonly
(U.S. tenderloin).
fillet (U.S. onlycalled
called mendedfor
mended forContre-filet (U.S. sirloin),
Contre-filet (U.S. sirloin), Rib
RiDand Fillet ofbeef
andFil/el of beef
aloyau (sirloin) wh
aloyau(sirloin) en ititincludes
when includes these these two should
whichshould
cuts, which
twocuts, (U.S. tenderloin).
(U.S. tenderloin).

113
113
 BEEF
BEEF
Sliced beef with various sauces. frrarNcfu DE BoEUF _ Left-
Sliced beef with various sauces. ÉMINCÉS DE BOEUF - Left- Poached.Tie
Poached. withstring
Tiewith stringandandcook, withthe
cook,with theusual garnish,
usualgarnish,
over poached, braised or roast meat is usually used for this pot-au-feulsee
dish.poached,
over inina alarge
largestock
stockpot, indicatedforforPot-au-feu
pot, asasindicated SbUpSy.
Cut the braised or roast meat is usually used for this
piece of meat into thin slices, ind pour over Bringtotothe boil,remove
thebail, removescum,
(see SOUPS).
dish. Cut the piece of meat into thin slices, and pour over Bring scum,season, andleave
season,and leavetotosimmer
simmer
them one of the following sauces: Bordelaisei:, bourluignonne, for4 4toto5 5hours.
them one of the following sauces: Bordelaise, bourguignonne, for Drainthe
hours.Drain themeat, removestring,
meat,remove string,and
andserve
serve
charcutiire, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italiinni, lyon_ withitsitsown
ownstrained
charcutière, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italienne, lyon- with liquor,grated
strainedliquor, gratedhorseradish,
horseradish,and rock
androck
naise, Madeira, piquant po ivrade.
naise, Madeira, piquante,e,poivrade. salt.
salt.
Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contre_filet, Entre_
Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contrefilet, Entre-
cite, etc.
côte, etc.
Ox tail - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS.
Ox tail-See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS.

tmerican marmite for beef-tea

American marmite for beef-tea

Beef-tea
Beef-tea -- Coneentrated
Concentrated consomméconsomm6 or or meat
meat JUlee,
iuice. ob-
ob_
tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and seaiing them
tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and sealing them
hermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special-screw-
hermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special screw-
top pewter receptacle (American marmite). put into a pan of
top pewter receptacle (American marmite). Put into a pan of
boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes.
boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes.
500 g. (l lb.) meat will give about 150 g. (a to 5 oz.) liquid.
500 g. (lIb.) meat will give about 150 g. (4 to 5 oz.) liquid.
Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value than ordinary meat_
Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value th an ordinary meat-
stock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convaliscents.
stock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convalescents,
for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awaken_
for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awaken-
ing the appetite.
ing the appetite.
Tongue - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, Beef or Ox
Tongue - See OFF AL or V ARIETY MEATS, Beef or
tongue.
tongue.
Toprump. pricr pn soeur (rorNrr on curorrn) (See Rump
Top rump. PIÈCE DE BOEUF (POINTE DE CULOTTE) -- (See Rump
of beef) Top rump is sometimescalled,pointe de'culotte. but is
of beef) Top rump is sometimes called pointe de culotte, but is
more frequently described on menus as piice de boeuf.
more frequently described on menus as pièce de boeuf
Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6+Jb.) piece of top rump with
Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6t-lb.) piece of top rump with How to lard top rump
rump (Nicolas)
strips salt pork,
(Nrcolas)
strips of
of salt pork, well seasoned and
weil seasoned and sprinkledwith
sprinkled with brandy.
brandy.
Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spices, and tie
Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spi ces, and tie
with
with string.
string.
Marinate
Marinate for for 55 hours
hours in wine with
in wine with thyme,
thyme, baybay leaf,
leaf, parsley
parsley Top rump
rump d bourgeoise. pricr
à la bourgeoise. PIÈCE DEDE BoEUF
BOEUF .A. À r,c.
LA souR-
BOUR-
and
and a crushed
a c10ve ofgarlic.
crushed clove crorsr
of garlic. GEOISE -- Steep
Steep lardoons
lardoons in brandy
brandy and spicesspices and insert
in sert in in aa
Drain and dry
Drain and dry the the meat
meat with
with aa cloth.
c1oth. Brown
Brown in in butter
butter oror large
large piece of rump.
piece of rump. Season
Season andand marinate
marinate in in 55 dl. (scant
(scant pint,
other fat.
other fat. Fry
Fry 22 sliced
sliced onions
onions and
and 22 sliced carrots in
sliced carrots in butter.
butter, 2i cups)
2{ cups) white wine for
white wine for 66 hours.
hours.
put them into a braising pan with l] kg. (3* lb.) fleshy bones,
put them into a braising pan with 1t kg. (3i lb.) fleshy bones, Cook
Cook inin aa braising
braising panpan with
with vegetables
vegetables and other other garnish
aa calf's
calf's knuckle chopped into
knuckle chopped into small
small pieces
pieces and
and browned
browned in in as indicated for
as indicated for Braising
Braising meat meat (see CULINAR y
(see CULINARY
the aven, 22 calf's
the oven, calf's feei,
feet, boned,
boned, scalded,
scalded, dipped
dipped in in cold
co Id water
water METHODS).
METHODS).
and tied with
and tied with string,
string, and bouquetgarni
and aa bouquet garni (q.v.).
(q.v.). Lay the meat
Lay the meat When
When three-quarters
three-quarters cooked,
cooked, drain
drain the
the meat
meat and put itit in
and put in aa
onon this foundation. Add
this foundation. Add the the marinating
marinating liquor,
liquor, cover
cover thethe casserole with
casserole with 44 carrots
carrots which
which have
have beenbeen cutcut into
into small
small
pan,
pan, and cookaa little
and cook away from
little away from direct heat until
direct heat the liquor
until the liquor pieces and
pieces and two-thirds cooked in
two-thirds cooked in stock,
stock, and and small
small glazed
glazed,
isis almost completely
almost completely reduced. reduced. Add Add slightly
slightly thickened
thickened veal veal onions.
onions. Add
Add calf's
calf's feet,
feet, braised
braised with
with the
the meat,
meat, boned
boned and and cut cut
stock
stock mixed
mixed withwitb 33 tablespoons
tablespoons (scant
(scant *i cup)
cup) tomato
tomato sauce
sauce into
into pieces.
pieces. Strain
Strain the
the braising
braising liquor,
liquor, skim
skim off
off fat,
fat, and
and pour
pour
totocover
coverthethemeat.
meaL over
over the
the meat. Cook with
meat. Cook with aa lid
!id on for llli hours.
on for hours.
Bring theboil.
Bringtotothe boil.Cover
Coverthe thepan
panandandput
putininaaslow oven for
slowoven for Drain
Drain the meat and
the meat and serve
serve with
with the
the liquor.
liquor.
about 4
about 4 hours. Drain
hours. Drain the the meat, untie, and
meat, untie, glaze itit in
and glaze in the
the Top romp à ta
Top rump i
bourguignonne. priicr
la bourguignonne. PIÈCE ouDE sorur
BOEUF A À ra
LA
oven,
oven,basting
bastingwith
withits owngravy.
itsown gravy. BoURGUTcNoNNE Insertlarge
BOURGUIGNONNE-- Insert large lardoons
lardoons into
into aa piece
piece of
ofrump
rump
Arrange
Arrangeon onaalarge
largedish,
dish,surround
surroundwith thegarnish
withthe gamishrecom-recom- and marinate in
and marinate brandy for
in brandy for 66 hours.
hours. Braise
Braise in
in red
red wine,
wine,
mended, disposedininseparate
mended,disposed separategroups.
groups.Boil
Boildown
downthe thebraising
braising following
following the recipe for
the recipe Braising meat
for Braising meat (see CULINAR y
(see CULINARY
liquor, skim off
liquor, skim offthe thefat,
fat, and pour
and pourover overthe
themeat.
meat. METHODS).
METHODS).

r14
114
 BEEF
BEEF
wine and a few tablesPoons
When cooked,drain
three-quarterscooked,
Whenthree-quarters drainthe meatand
themeat putinto
andput intoaa fewminutes,
few minutes,and addaalittle
andadd littledry
dry wine and a few tablespoons
demi-glace (q.v.) (or
daubière (q.v,)
daubiire (q.v,) with garnish dà la
with garnish la bourguignonne
bourguignonne (see
(see 6r*;-gtice (q.v.) (or thickenid veal stock)' Boil .!:t
thickened veal stock). 9oil for ?2
parsley, chervil and
Add z2 teaspoons
GARNISHES)
GARNISHES)and andits braisingliquor,
itsbraising strainedand
liquor,strained andwithwithfat fat minutes. edd
minuies. chopped
teaspoons chopped parsley, chervilpour and
the sauce' Stir well and
skimmedoff.
skimmed Simmerslowly.
off.Simmer slowly. tarragon,and
tarragon, !ittlebutter
andaalittle buttertoto the sauce. Stir weil and pour
Top
Toprump braised i àl'ancienne.
rompbraised l'ancienne. PdcE PIÈCEDE BRAISÉEAÀ
BOEUF BRAISEE
DE BoE-uF *iilH"?Kt6f;;'
over the ·tournedos.
the tournedos in butter, and
L'ANCIENNE -- Trim
r'lNCmNNs Trim top top rump,
rump, and and tietie with
with string.
string. Braise,
Braise, Tournedos Choron -- Saute Sauté the tournedos in butter, and
Garnish with artichoke hearts
andwhen
and wbenthe meatisisstill
themeat littlefirm,
stillaalittle drain,put
firm,drain, underaapress'
putunder press, place tbemon
placethem onfried
fried crootons.
croûtons. Garnisb with artichoke bearts
filled with garden peas
stewedininbutter
and
or panwith
orininaapan withaaweightweighton ontop. Leavetotocool.
top. Leave cool. whichhave
which beenstewed
havebeen butter and filled with garden peas
Cut
Cutoutoutthe centrepart,
thecentre leavingaa meat
part, leaving meat ring ringaboutabout l|Itcm. cm. or asparagus tips
or utp"tugrrs dressed
-Choron
tips
butter' Pour on each tourneda
dressed inin butter. Pour on each the tournedo
aa rini (see SAUCE)' Dilute pan
(f(t inch)
inch) thick.
thick. BrushBrush with with beaten
beaten egg egg and cover with
and cover with white
white ring ofofitrict
thick Choron sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Dilute the pan
juiceJwith veal stock, and pour a
breadcrumbsmixed
breadcrumbs mixedwith with grated
grated Parmesan
Parmesan cheese. cheese. PressPresswellweil white wine
juices with white and thickened
wine and thickened veal stock, and pour a
to make the
to make breadcrumbs adhere,
the breadcrumbs sprinkle with
adhere, sprinkle with melted
melted few tablespoonsover
few tablespoons the tournedos-
over ttle tournedos.
Tournedos Ià la
the tournedos in butter'
butter, and
butter, brown in
and brown in the
the oven.
oven. Tournedos Clamart -- Saut6
la Clamart Sauté the tournedos in butter.
Simmer artichoke hearts in butter, and fill with a puree of
Cut the meat
Cut the meat taken ta ken out out of centre part
the centre
of the part into into very
very thinthin Simmer artichoke hearts in butter, and fil! with a purée cooked of
fresh peas and small new potatoes which have been
slices, put
slices, them into
put them sauté pan,
into aa saut6 added thin
pan, added slices of
th.in slices tonguedà
oftongue fresh peas and small new potatoes which have been cooked
and thickened
juices with white wine
l'écarlate (salt
I'icarlate (salt beef tongue) and
beef tongue) sliced mushrooms'
sorne sliced
and some mushrooms, in butter. Dilute
in butier. Dilute the the pan
pan juices with wbite wine and thickened
and pour
tournedos.
lightly fried
lightly fried in Moisten with
butter. Moisten
in butter. with aa few tablespoons con-
few tablespoons con- veal stock, and
veal stock, pour overover the
the tournedos.
tournedos in butter, place
braising liquor,
centrated braising
centrated strained and
liquor, strained and with
with the the fat
fat skimmed
skimmed Tournedlos Helder -- Saut€
Tournedos H-etder Sauté the the tournedos in butter, place
each one with a ring of
Add +!- dl.
off. Add
off. dL (3 tablespoons, scant
(3 tablespoons, scant lt cup)
cup) Madeira
Madeira and and leave
leave tbem on
them croûtons, and
fried crottons,
on fried and top
top each one with a ring of
slowly but but dodo not not boil. Béarnaise sauce
Biarnaise sauce (see SAUCE),
(see further decorated with a
to stew slowly
to stew boil. SAUCE), further decoratedGarnish
(see FONDUE)'
with a
Place these slices
Place these slices in meat ring,
the meat
in the ring, andand serve serve withwith the the teaspoon of thick Tomato fondue
teaspoon of thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). Garnish
the pan juices with wtite
remainder of
remainder of the
the sauce.
sauce. with potatoes fried
withpotatoes fried in butter, Dilute
in butter, Dilute the panjuices with white
veal stock, and pour over the tournedos'
Top romp ià la
Top rump mode. p$cn
la mode. PIÈCE or BOEUF A
DE BoEuF À Ll
LA uoonMODE -- CookCook as as wine and thickened
wine and tbickened veal stock, and pour over the tournedos.
the tournedos in butter and
described in
described recipe for Top
the recipe
in the Top rump
rump dà la bourgeoise, replacing
la bourgeoise, replacing Tournedos Henri
Tounedos Henri IV IV -- Saut6
Sauté the tournedos in butter arti and
place on fried crofitons. Top each tournedo witha small
white
white wine
wine by by red.
red. place on fried croûtons. Top eacn tournedo with a small arti-
Top skirt.
Top skirt. oNGLET
ONGLET DE DE Bonur
BOEUF- - Thisjuicy
This juicy cut cut can can bebe prepared
prepared .ttot filled with
heart filled
choke heart with thick
Bdarnaise sauce (see SAUCE),
thick Béarnaise sauce (see SAUCE),
Garnish with small pota-
in
in anyany way suitable for
way suitable Beefsteak. It
for Beefsteak' Itis is also used for
also used for decorated with
decorated with a s!iver of
a sliver of truffie.
truffie. Garnisb with small (q'v pota-
Madeira and demi-glace
pan juices with
juices ')
carbonades, for extracting extracting meat meat juice,
juice, and for for beef
beef saut6es'
sautées. toes. Dilute
toes. the pan
Dilute the with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.)
Grill
Grill oror saut6.
sauté. and pour over the
and pour over tbe tournedos.tournedos.
(medallions of fiIlet
Tournedos (medallions
Tournedos of beef) - Small
filJet of slices of
Small slices of
fillet of beef, usually frid
of beef, fried in butter, or in aa mixture mixture of of butter
butter
and oil,
and or in
oil, or in oiL Their preparation
oil. Their preparation is is similar
similar to to that
that of of
Noisettes of
Noiselles of mullon
mutton (see MUTTON)' They
(see MUTTON). They should should be be
cooked very very quickly, to to make
make sure that they
sure that remain pink
they remain pink
inside.
Tournedos can also
Tournedos also be grilled (see
be grilled grilled).
mignons, grilled).
(see Filets mignons,
Before garnishing, they they are are sometimes
sometimes placed placed on grilled or
on grilled or
cro0tons, potato cakes,
fried croûtons, artichoke he
cakes, artichoke hearts,
arts, small mounds
small mounds
of rice,
of etc. Garnishes
rice, etc. Garnishes and and sauces
sauces for for tournedos
tournedos will will be found
be found
in alphabetical
in alphabetical order order under GARNISHESGARNISHES and SAUCE.
and SAUCE.
Tournedos
Tournedos AbrantèsAbrantis -- Season Season the tutrnedos with
the tournedos with salt and
salt and
paprika and
paprika and sauté
saut6 themthem in in oiL
oil. Place them on
Place them grilled slices
on grilled slices ofof Tournedos Marguery
Tournedos Marguery
au bergines. Fry
aubergines. Fry 1I tablespoon
tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion in in the oil, add
the oil, add aa
(q.v.) of
salpicon (q.v.)
salpicon of peeled pimentos and
peeled pimentos and aa few few tablespoons
tablespoons
tomato sauce,
tomato sauce, and and pour pour over over the the tournedos.
tournedos' Serve Serve with with
potatoes which
potatoes which have have been been cutcut small
small and cooked in
and cooked in butter.
butter. Marguery -- Sauté
Tournedos Marguery Saut6 thethe tournedos in butter, and
Tournedos tournedos in butter,(q'v')
and
with an irtichoke heart
an artichoke heart filled with a salpicon
filled with
Tournedos ài l'algérienne
Tournedos I'alg6rienne -- Season Season the the tournedos
tournedos with with saltsalt top each
top each with a salpicon (q.v.)
in butter. Place on
butter. Place fried croûtons
on fried cro0tons and and of truffles
trufles àdlaIacrème. Fill the centre of the dish
crCme. FiU the centre of the disb with morelswith morels
and paprika and
and paprika saut6 in
and sauté of
*ith Garnish algirienne (see (see GARNISHES).
GARNISHES)' fried inin butter,
butter, and place aa few
and place cocks' combs and kidneys
few cocks'
.u.to.tnd with
surround Garnish algérienne fried combs and kidneys
Dilute the
Dilute the pan juices with
pan juices with white
white winewine to to which
which has has been
been between the tournedos. Dilute the pan juices with port, add
between the tournedos. Dilute the pan juices with port, add
added tomato-flavoured
added tomato-flavoured veal veal stock,
stock, and and pour pour over over the the fresh cream, boil down a little, and pour over the tournedos'
fresh cream, boil down a little, and pour over the tournedos.
tournedos
tournedos.. TournedmMassena Massena-- Grill the tournedos and arrange them
Grill tbe
Tournedos tournedos and arrange them
Tournedosarchiduc
Tournedos archiduc-- Sauté Saut6the tournedos inin butter
thetournedos butter and and on artichokes which have been simmered in butter' Add a
on articbokes which have been simmered in butter. Add a
potato cakes, garnishingwith
cakes,garnishing withsmall croquettes
small croquettes sliceofofpoacbed bone-marrow totoeach
poached bone-marrow each tournedo. Cover with
place
place them
them on onpotato slice tournedo. Cover with
ofofcalves'
calves'brains.
brains. Toss sliversoftruffie
Toss slivers butterand
of trufreininbutter place22on
andplace on Marroi sauce I (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped
Marrow sauce 1 (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped
each garnishedtournedo.
eachgarnished tournedo. Dilute Dilute tbe thepan juices witb
pan juices withsberry,
sherry, ^parsleyon
parsley oneach sliceof
eachslice marrow.
ofmarrow.
Saut6 the tournedos in
add fieshCream
addfresb creamand and veal stock ininequal
vealstock proportions, boil
equal proportions, boil Tournedm with
Tournedos with musbrooms - - Sauté the tournedos
mushrooms in
little,season
downaalittle, paprika, strain,
withpaprika, strain, and andpour pouroveroverthe the butter. When half cooked, add small mushrooms which
down season with butter. When half cooked, add small mushrooms which
tournedos.
tournedos. have been lightly fried in butter, and complete cooking.
have been lightly fried in butter, and complete cooking.
wtth Arrangethe tournedosininaacrown
thetournedos crownon on a dish, and surround
Tournedos ài lalabéarnaise
Tournedos b6arnaise- -Garnish grilledtournedos
Garnish grilled tournedoswith Arrange a dish, and surround
potatoes (see (seePOT POTATOES). Servewith with withthe mushrooms. Dilute
themushrooms. Dilutethe the pan juices with Madeira,
smallChâteau
small Chdtean potatoes ATOES). Serve with pan juices with Madeira,
(seSAUCE).
SAUCE). moistenwith withdemi-glace
demi-gtace(q.v.) (q.v.) or thickened veal stock, and
Biarnaise sauce
Béarnaise sauce(see moisten or thickened veal stock, and
Tournedosàilalabordelaise
Tournedos bordelaise- -Place Plaoethinthinslices
slicesof poachedand
ofpoached and pour over the tournedos.
pour over the tournedos.
drained marrowon
drainedmarrow grilledtournedos.
ongrilled tournedos'SprinkleSprinklewith withchopped
chopped Tounedos i la perigourdine - Saut6 the tournedos in
Tournedos à la perigourdine - Sauté the tournedos in
parsley andserve withBordelaise
Bordelaisesauce sauce(see SAUCE).
(seeSAUCE). placeononfried
butter,place friedcroûtons,
cro0tons,and and top each with slices of
parsley
- and servewith butter, top each with slices of
tournedosininbutter, butter,and and truffie which have been tossed in cooking butter. Dilute
thecooking
Tournedos chassetn- -Sauté
Tournedos chasseur Saut6the thetournedos truffie which have been tossed in the butter. Dilute
placeonona adish.
place dish.Sauté Saut6sliced mushroomsininthe
slicedmushrooms thesame
samepan, pan, the pan juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour
the pan juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour
spoonfulofofchopped
iOainga aspoonful
adding shallots.Season,
choppedshallots. Season,brown brownfor fora a overthe
over thetournedos.
tournedos.

115
Ils
 BEEF-EATERS
BEEF-EATERS

Beer : fermentation room (Ileineken) (Adwindig)

Beer: fermentation room (Heineken) (Adwindig) Beer:tank
Beer: tankcellar (Heineken)(Adwindig)
cellar(Heinekeo) (Adwindig)

Tornedos i la portugaise saut6 the tournedos in butter and

Tornedos à la portugaise -- Sauté the tournedos in butter and The inventionof
The invention offermented
fermented beverages
beveragesfromfromgrain
grainisisattri-
attri-
oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Chhrcau buted toto the
the Egyptians,
Egyptians, who who practised
practised the
oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Château buted themanufacture
manufacture of of
potatoes (see POTATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white
potatoes (see POT ATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white alcoholic liquor
alcoholic liquor from
from grain
grain atat least5,000 yearsago.
least 5,000 years papyri
ago.Papyri
wine and tomato-flavoured veal stocli and pour over the of the period s.c. refer
wine and tomato-fiavoured veal stock and pour over the of the period 1300 1300B.e. refer totothe regulation of
theregulation ofbeer
beJrshops
strops to
to
tournedos. prevent people
people over
tournedos. prevent indulging inin beer.
over indulging The Egyptians
beer. The Egyptians mademade
Tournedos Rossini - Saut6 the tournedos in butter and kinds of
several kinds
Tournedos Rossini - Sauté the tournedos in butter and several of beer,
beer, and
and they
they also
also made
madeaawine winefrom
from barley
barley
arrange on crofitons. Put a slicn of foie gras tossed in butter which they
they called
arrange on croûtons. Put a slice of foie gras tossed in butter which called xithum.
xithum.
on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same The Pannonians,
Pannonians, who who lived
on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same The lived along
along the Danube, made
the Danube, made aa
butter in which the tournedos were cooked. potent drink
drink out of barley
butter in which the tournedos were cooked. potent out of barley and millet. AA similar
and millet. similar beverage
beverage
Dilute the pan juices with Madeira Madeira andand demi-glace (q.v.)
demi-glace (q.v.) existed inin Illyria.
Illyria. Teutons
Teutons made made aa kind
Dilute the pan juices with existed kind of of wine
wine from
from fer-
fei-
and pour over the tournedos. mented barley
barley and and wheat.
and pour over the tournedos. mented wheat. 'The'The people
people of of the
the west,'
west,' said
said
Tournedoa Saint-Germain - Saut€ the tournedos in butter, Pliny, 'get
'get drunk
Tournedos Saint-Germain - Sauté the tournedos in butter, Phny, drunk on on mouldy grain.'
mouldy grain.'
plaoe on fried cro0tons, and garnish with a thick puree of
place on fried croûtons, and garnish with a thick purée of The beer
The beer made
made by all these
by all people was
these people was not
not intended
intended to to be
be
fresh peas.
fresh peas.
Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour
Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour
over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazd, carrots^and
over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazed carrots and
small new potatoes gooked in butter, alteinating these vege_
small new potatoes cooked in butter, alternating these vege-
tables round the dish.
tables round the Serve with
dish. Serve with Biarnaise (iee
sauce (see
Béarnaise sauce
SAUCE).
SAUCE).
Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts
Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts
of meat,.
of meat, especially
especially as described in
as described in recipes for Noisettes
recipes for Noisettes of
of
mutton (see
mutton (see MUTTON).
MUTTON). Saut6ed Sautéed or or grilled,
grilled tournedos
tournedos can can
also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with
also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with
French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They can
French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They
also be garnished with fresh vegetables cookedin butier or
also be garnished with fresh vegetables cooked in butter or
braised, such as cubumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows,
braised, such as cu"cumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows,
aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as well as with potatoes
aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as weil as with potatoes
cooked in
cooked in various
various ways; and with
ways; and purées of
with pur6es of freshbr
fresh or dried
dried
vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals.
vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals.
Beefiàlala vinaigrette.
Beef BOEUFAÀra
vinaigrette. BoEUF LA viNlrcnurrr
_ Boiled beef.
VINAIGRETTE - Boiled beef,
diced or cut in
diced or cut in thin
thin slices, seasoned with
slices, seasoned with salt,
salt, pepper,
pepper, oil,
oil,
vinegar,
vinegar, onion and chopped
onion and chopped parsley. Serve with
parsley. Serve with siiciO
sliced Uoited
boiled
potatoes.
potatoes.
BEEF-EATERS
BEEF-EATERS -- Nickname given to
Nickname given the yeoman
to the Yeoman of
of the
the
_Guard onduty
Guardon dutyatatthe
theTower
Towerof
ofLondon.
London. The
Thename
name may
may have
have
been
beenderived
derived fromfrom the
the French
French beaufaitier one who
beaufaitier-- one who attends
attends
the buffet. ItIt isis more
the buffet. more likely
likely that these yeomen
that these yeomen were
were called
caUed
beef-eatersininthe
beef-eaters theseventeenth century,fiom
seventeenthcentury, from their
theirreceiving
receivingaa
large daily ration of
large daily ration of beef.beef.
BEER. BIÈRE-- A
BEER. ndipe A generic
generic term used for
terrn used for all
ail fermented
fermented malt
malt Hop field (J. Boyer)
Boyer)
Hopfield,(J.
beverages,
beverages,and includesporter,
andincludes porter,alealeand
and stout.
stout. The
The beverage
beverage
isis obtained
obtained through
through the the action
action of ofyeast
yeast onon an infusion 6f
an infusion of kept.
kept. Hops
Hops were
were later
later introduced
introduced in in the
the brewing
brewing ofof beer
beer in
in
malted cereals. ItIt isis a-a refreshing
malted cereals. refreshing and
and slightly
slightly stimulating
stimulating the
theNetherlands,
Netherlands, andand in
in the
the fifteenth
fifteenth century
century inin England.
England.
drink
drinkwhich
whichhas sornefood
hassome foodvalue.
value. In
In all
ail regions
regions and at all
and at ail latitudes,
latitudes, beer
beer is
is brewed
brewed from
from

116
116
 BEER
BEER

Beer: assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig)

Beer: filtering
Beer: fiJtering and refrigeration (Gruber,
and refrigeration Melun) (Iarousse)
(Gruber, Melun) (Larousse) Beer: bottle
botlle assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig)

to 15" or or 20'C. (59' or 68'F.). Fermentation

or 68°F.). lasts from two
cereals: wheat, oats, rice
various cereals:
various rice (the
(the Japanese sake), saké), millet,
millet, to 15° 20°C. (59° Fermentation lasts from two
corn), sorghum, etc; etc; and ev en from from starchy four days,
to four days, and and the the yeast gathers at
yeast gathers at the top of
the top the liquid,
of the
maize (U.S.
maize (U.S. corn), and even starchy to liquid,
roots (srveet
roots (sweet potatoes, cassa va), when
potatoes, cassava), when cerealscereals are are notnot hence
hence the term 'top
the term 'top fermentation
fermentation yeast'. yeast'.
Top fermentation,
Top fermentation, which which used used to to he most universaJJy
the most
be the universally
available.
produced popuiar method, method, isis stiU still employed
employed in in Britain, Belgium and
Britain, Belgium and
In&tstial brewing. ln Europe, beer is generally produced
Industrial brewing.In popular
sweetened juice, wort, noithem France. France. Bottom fermentation has
Bottom fermentation developed since
has developed since
fermentation of aa sweetened
alcoholic fermentation
by the alcoholic juice, the wort, northern
flivoured with
flavoured with hopshops and and fermented
fermented by by aa micro-organism,
micro-organism, the introduction
the introduction of of refrigeration.
refrigeration. It It makes possible the
makes possible the
product of the maceration of malt flour
malt flour production of a more consistent
production of a more consistent quality of beer. quality of beer.
yeast. TheThe wortwort is the product
Also manufactured,
manufactured, mostly mostly in yeastless beer
Belgium, isis aa yeastless
in Belgium,
or sprouted barley in water at controlled tempera-
at suitably controlled tempera- Also beer
tures. Cereal starch is fermentable' The
is not directly fermentable. purpose
The purpose called lambic and
called lambic andfaro.
faro.
to breed
is to period in
After aa period in the maturing cellars
the maturing cellars the beer is filtered,
the beer is filtered,
of germinating
germinating the the barley in in the
the malting process is After
grain; these transformation of
induce the transformation of the
the conditioned in
then conditioned
then in casks
casks or or bottles.
bottles. This liquid, so
This Iiquid, easily
so easily
enzymes in in the grain; these induce
starch during the mashing process.process' spoiled, requires the
spoiled, requires the most handling. The
careful handling.
most careful The premises
premises
starch into malt sugar sugar or or maltose
maltose during the mashing
picked over,
and picked over, the the barley
barley and receptacles
receptacles must must he perfectly clean
be perfectly clean and and regularly
regularly
After having
After having been cleaned and
been cleaned and
in tuns, dispatched to
and dispatched to the malt
the malt sterilised. The
sterilised. The beer conditioned inin boUles
beer conditioned bottles isis generaJJy
generally
grains
grains are are set to soak
set to soak in tuns, and
of 60°60' toto 65°C.
houses.
[ouser. The The sprouted
sprouted barley drid inin malt
then dried
barley isis then kilns, tbus
malt kilns, thus pasteurised - heated
pasteurised - heated to to aa temperature
temperature of 65'C.
arresting
arresting germination.
gerrnination. This operation isis regulated
This operation according
regulated according (140'to
(140° 149'F.).
to 149°F.).
Bottled beer charged under
beer isis charged pressure with
under pressure with carbonic
carbonic acid acid
to
to the quality of
the quality malt desired:
of malt desired: pale malt for
pale malt for the manufacture
the manufacture Bottled
of flavoured malt malt for for the manufacture of
the manufacture of which enables
which enables ail all its
its freshness
freshness and flavour toto he
and flavour preserved,
be preserved,
of pale
pale ale;
ale; coloured,
coloured, flavoured
brown to say,
that isis to root-
the root-
say, the provided that
provided that itit isisconsumed immediately itit isisopened.
consumedimmediately opened.
brown ale ale. The
The malt
malt isis then
then degermed;
degermed; that
lets removed. These These have have aa high protein
high protein Low (bottom) fermentation
Low (bottom) fermentation beers used toto he
beers used classed in
be classed in
lets oror malt
malt combs
combs are are removed.
and them ideal cattle feed.
ideal cattle feed' three types:
three pilsen,a
types: pilsen, a light blendbeer;
light blend beer;munich,
munich, aastrong brown
strong brown
and nitrogen
nitrogen content
content which which makesmakes them
the crushed malt isis putput toto vienne,aasweet,
beer: vienne, sweet, amber-coloured beer rapidly
amber-coloured beer rapidly decreas- decreas-
During ~he
During the mashing
mashing process process the crushed malt beer;
macerate
macerate in in water
water and and the mixture heated
the mixture heated to temperature of
toaatemperature of ing popularity.
ing ininpopularity.
Amongthe the top fermentation
topfermen arethe
beers are theEnglish brews:
English brews:
75°C. (167'F.). ln
75"C. (16rF.). In the
thecourse
course of of this
this operation,
operation, which which isis Among tation beers
by paleale,
pale ale,i blendbeer;beer; porter porterand andstout, brownbeers.
stout, brown beers.ThereThere
done
done by by decoction
decoction or infusion, the
or infusion, starch isistransformed
thestarch transformed by a blend
process of of saccharification.
saccharification' lrealso
are alsospecial
specialbeers:beers: the whitebeers
thewhite beers of Louvain and
ofLouvain Berlin'
andBerlin,
enzymes
enzymes into into sugar:
sugar: this this isis the
the process
belongtoto
filtration fromfrom the residue,ca
the residue, called the lambicand
thelambic andfaro
faro of ofBelgium.The
Belgium. Thevarious various beersbeersbelong
The
The wortwort isisseparated
separated by byfiltration lied
the
thedraff; this isii also
draff; this also used
usedas ascattle food. The
cattle food. wortisis
filtered wort
The filtered these types. The most widely distributed is the pilsen-type ofof
these types. The most widely distributed is the pilsen-type
500g.g' paleale.ale.ItItisistrue, however, totosay
true,however, thatthere
saythat thereare arre as many
cooked
cooked and and hops
hopsare added ininthe
are added proportion of
theproportion of150150to to500 pale as many
per gallons,28
22gallons, gallons)' varietiesof
varieties ofbeer
beerasasthere thereare breweries'
arebreweries.
-perhectolitre
hectolitre (5(5OZ.tooz. to18 18oz.
oz.per per22 28 gallons).
The
Thecooled
cooled wort wort isisthen thensentsenttoto fermentation
fermentation tuns. -
tuns'The The Thelegal
The densimetricunit
legaldensimetric unitofofbeer notthe
beerisisnot sameininevery
thesame every
processand
theprocess andthe the country.lnInFrance
country. Franceititisisthe 'Rigie'degree.
the'Régie' degree.There tendency
Thereisisa atendency
addition
additionof of culture
cultureyeast yeast completes
completes the
extractcon- con-
beer cooledtoto0°0oor 2'C'(32°
or2°C. (32"or or referback
totorefer backtotothe theoriginal extract- -that
originalextract thatis,'
is,the
theextract
beerisisplaced
placed ininmaturing
maturing cellarscellars cooled
lengthofoftime wortbefore fermentation. This never
densityisisnever
Thisdensity
36°F.),
36'F.), where it
where it remainsremainsfor foraavariable
variablelength time tainedby
tained bythethewort beforefermentation.
forthe alcoholiccontent
thealcoholic contentofof
depending
dependingupon uponits itstype
typeand quality.
andquality. expressedininalcoholic
expressed alcoholicdegrees, degrees,for
There ofbeer: lowfermentation
fermentation beerdepends
beer dependson attenuation - -on
onitsitsattenuation onthe diminutionofofthe
thediminution the
Thereare aretwotwoprincipal
principal types typesof beer:low
beers differininthe typeofof extractininthe
extract thecourse fermentation. The
courseofoffermentation. Thealcohol contentofof
alcoholcontent
beersandandhigh highfermentation
fermentation beers. Theydiffer
beers.They thetype
andininthe madefrom fromthe theoriginal fluctuates
extractfluctua
originalextract accordingtoto
leavening
leavening used, uied,ininthe speedofoffermentation
thespeed fermentationand the beersmade
beers tes according
method
methodofofmashingmashingthe wort.InInthe
thewort. theformer,
former,the temperature
thetemperature the degreeofofattenuation.
thedegree attenuation.
l0'C. Theihemical compositionofofbeers accordingtotothe
variesaccording
beersvaries the
of fermentationisismaintained
offermentation artificiallyabove
maintainedartificially above10°C. The chemical composition
mostofofthe typeand densityofofthe
anddensity originalwort.
theoriginal wort.The volumeofofaJcohol
Thevolume alcohol
(50°F.).
(50"F.).After Aftera aperiodperiodofofsix sixtototwelve
twelvedays daysmost the type
leavening
leaveningisisprecipitated
precipitated and andforms depositatatthe
formsa adeposit bottom
thebottom itiicon
contains
tains rangesrangesfrom from3 3per percentcenttoto6 6perpercent,
cent,sometimes
sometimes
ofofthe term'low 'lowbottombottomfer- fer- greater,depending
dependingupon uponthe Englishbeers
beer.English
thebeer. particular
beersininparticular
thetun,tun,from
fromwhich whichcornescomesthe theterm greater,
mentation
mentation yeast'.yeast'.lnInthe thesecond
secondcase, case,the temperaturerises
thetemperature rises cancanexceed
exceedthis amount.
thisamount.

t17
117
 BEESTINGS
BEESTINGS
The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not trans_
The extract
formed is formed by dextrines, the maltose not trans- Beersoup
Beer sorp(German
(Germancookery).
cookery).SOUPE sriRE- _Dilute
soupEÀ ALAreBIÈRE Dilute
into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. 150g.g.(5(5oz.) lightroux
oz.)light (q.v.)made
roux(q.v.)
formed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. 150 madeofofbutter
butterand flourwith
andflour with
It is present in the proportion of from 4 io 9 per cent. This
Itextract
is present in the proportion of from 4 to 9 per cent. This
is what gives a sensation of fullness
ItlIlitres (2fpints,
litres(2i pints,3i3{pints)
pints)light
lightbeer.
beer.MixMixweil.
well.Season with
Seasonwith
extract is what gives a sensation of fuUness totothe thipalate
palate which
which saltand
salt andpepper
pepperand andadd add2 2teaspoons
teaspoonsfine finesugar
sugarandanda asmall
small
the tasters call the mash. rtis also due to this extiact that the pinchpowdered
powderedcinnamon.
the tasters cali the mash. It is also due to this extract that the pinch cinnamon.Bring Bringtotothe boil,and
theboil, andsimmer
simmerforfor
carbonic acid forms the substantial froth or head which minutes.
carbonic
indicates acid forms the substantial froth or head which
careful drawing and skilful brewing.
2525minutes.
indicates careful drawing and skilful brewing. B9{oreserving,
Before serving,thicken
thickenwith with2 2dLdt.(1(+pint,
pint,scant
scantcup)
cup)
Beer contains amyloides, protides, alcohol, minerals, doublecream.
cream.Pour Pourover
Beer con tains amyloïdes, protides, alcohol, minerais, double overthin slicesofoftoast
thinslices intoa asoup
toastinto soup
vitamins, etc. It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by whileititisisstill
tureenwhile
vitamins, etc. It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by tureen stillboiling.
boiling.
the body. The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulat_
the
ingbody. The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulat- BEESTINGS. AMOUILLE
effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes. BEESTINGS. Namecommonly
.c,MouLr,E- - Name giventotothe
commonlygiven the
ing effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes.
A Belgian
Adishes
Belgian culinary school strongly recommends the beer
culinary school strongly recommends the beer
first milkofofa acow
firstmilk cowafter parturition.
afterparturition.
conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. BEESWAX. CIRE
dishes conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. BEESWAX. crRE- - Product
Producttransformed
transformedfrom fromthe thehoney
honev
In- France, a special governmental body makes a regular
_ln France, a special governmental body makes a regular absorbedby
absorbed bytheworking
the workingbee, whichitituses
bee,which usestotoconstruct
constructthe
the
check on beers, and severely punishes anyinfraction, olth.
check on beers, and severely punishes any infractions of the cellsininhoneycombs
cells honeycombsand andininthe interiorofofthe
theinterior thehive.
hive.
manufacturing regulations. Thename
manufacturing regulations. The namecires vigitalesisisgiven
ciresvégétales giventotosubstances
substancesextracted
extracted
Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley,
Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, fromcertain
from certainvegetables, particularfrom
vegetables,ininparticular fromcertain
certainpalms.
palms.
hops, yeast), beer is rich in mineral salts and vitamins (Br,
hops, yeast), beer is rich in minerai salts and vitamins (B 1> BEET- -See
Bz,Brr, PP). Its consumption must be controlled, orrather
raihei BEET BEETROOT.
SeeBEETROOT.
B 2 , B 12 , PP). Its consumption must be controlled, or
drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and BEETROOT(U (U.S. Beet).BETTERAVE
drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and
diabetes, as well as in certain types of dyspepsla. It is recom_
BEETROOT .S. Beet). Thereare
BETTERAVE - - There aremany
many
diabetes, as in certain types of dyspepsia. It is recom- ofthis
varieties of plant,sorne
thisplant, somecultivated
cultivatedsolely fordistillery
mended as inweil
diets for increasing weight, ind for nursing varieties
purposes, sorne
solelvfor distillerv
mended in diets for increasing weight, and for nursing purposes, someas animal foodstuff
asanimal foodstuff and
andsorne,
some,asasininthe
thecase
casl
mothers, so long as it does not have too strong an alcoholii ofgarden
mothers, sa long as it does not have too strong an alcoholic of beet,as
garden beet, vegetable.
asvegetable.
content. Among
content. Among the the best
bestvarieties of garden
varietiesof gardenbeetroot are: red
beetrootare: red
Ale, and porter are consumed
consumod in in much
much greater
greater stump-rooted,dark
Ale, .stout
quantities stout and porter are stum'p-rooted, dark red
redMassy,
Massy, large red,early
large red, earlyred
redglobe,
globe,
in Europe than in U.S.A. Some ale is manufaitured dark red
red turnip-rooted
quantities in Europe than in U .S.A. Sorne ale is manufactured dark turnip-rooted Egyptian,
Egyptian, red globesummer
redglobe summeibeet,beet,
in the United States, but most American breweries produce a dark red globeearly
in the United States, but most American breweries produce a dark red globe early beet.
beet.
lager beer which is lighter bodied
bodied th thrin the European
b.r.op"a,
lager beer which is lighter an the
varieties. There is a large volume of importing and expoiting
varieties. There is a large volume of importing and exporting
of beers between Europe and the United States.
of beers between Europe and the United States.
Barley beer. cpnvons - Decoction of barley, fermented
Barley beer. CERVOISE - Decoction of barley, fermented
with- yeast perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which
with yeast -- perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which
produces a kind of barley wine rather than Jbeer. This was
produces a kind of barley wine rather than a beer. This was
a drink of the ancient Gauls. iir:

a drink of the ancient Gauls. F

Ginger beer. sriRn DE GINGEMBnT - Boil 2t ke. (5 lb.) loaf
Ginger beer. BIÈRE DE GINGEMBRE - Boil 2i kg. (5 lb.) loaf
sugar, 75 g. (3 oz, * cup) ground ginger and l litres (3 gal_
sugar, 75 g. (3 oz., i cup) ground ginger and 14 litres (3 gal-
lon9, 3f gallons) water for I hour. When cold, add the jriice
Ions, 3i gallons) water for 1 hour. When cold, add the juice
and thinly peeled rind of 5 lemons. Add cup brewer's yeast
and thinly peeled rind of 5 Iemons. Add -!-+ cup brewer's yeast
smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered
smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered
with a thick cloth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a cloth,
with a thick c1oth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a c1oth,
bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down
bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down.
The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a
The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a
stronger brew is desired, add more ginger.
st ronger brew is desired, add more ginger.
Home-made beer I. nrinn or u6N.l,cn - Boil 2 litres (3*
Home-made beer I. BIÈRE DE MÉNAGE - Boil 2 litres (3t
pints, 4| pints) ordinary barley n 22 litres (4f gallons,
pints, 4t pints) ordinary barley in 22 litres (4i gallons,
66 gallons) water for
gallons) water hours. Add
for 22 hours. Add 125125 g. g. (4
(4 oz.\
oz.) hops
hops andand
g. (t
10 g. (1 ^oz-)
lO oz.) chicory,
chicory, and leave to
and leave to infuse.
infuse. Strain, and pour
Strain, and pour
into a 30-litre (6]-gallon,
into a 30-litre (6t-gallon, 8-gallon) 8-gallon) tun. Add l*
tun. Add kg. (2i
li kg. (2, tb.)
lb.) Five varieties
variclies of beelmol
of beetrool
sugar which has been dissolved in l0 litres (9 quarti, I I
sugar which has been dissolved in 10 litres (9 quarts, II
quarts) water. Mix well. Leave the tun uncovered until the
quarts) water. Mix weil. Leave the tun uncovered until the
following
following day. day. The
The Romans
Romans used used beetroot
beetroot leaves as a vegetable.
vegetable.
Add
Add 50 50 g.
g. (2
(2 oz.)
oz.) brewer's
brewer's yeastyeast which
which has has been
been dissolved
dissolved In
In Russian
Russian cookery
cookery both
both the
the roots and the leaves
Ieaves of of beets
beets
inin aa little hot
little hot water. Stir with
water. Stir with aa stick.
stick. Leave
Leave the the tun open for are
tan open for notably for
used, notably
are used, for various soups soups (see
(see SOUPS
SOUPS AND AND
66 days.
days. Add Add moremore liquid
Iiquid everyevery morning
morning and and evening
evening to to BROTHS,
BROTHS, Beetroot soup dà la
Beetraot soup la Russe).
Russe).
replace that lost through fermentation.
replace that lost through fermentation. On On the seventh iav.
the seventh day, Beetroot in
Beetroot hors-d'œuvre is refreshing
in hors-d'euyre refreshing and increases
increases thethe
bung the barrel,
bung the barrel, and on and the eighth
on the day, bottle
eighth day, bottle the beer. Boii
the beer. appetite
Boil appetite but but isis not
not recommended
recommended for for sufferers
sufferers of of dyspepsia
dyspepsia
thecorks
the corksininwater
waterfor for 55minutes,
minutes, and and cork
cork thethe bottles
boules tightly.
tightly. and
and colitis, since itit is
colitis, since inclined to
is inclined to be indigestible and it,
be indigestible its
Home-made
Home-madebeer beerIL BIÈREor
II. srtRE DEMfNlce
MÉNAGE-- Boil Boil lm100E.g. G(4 o;.)
oz.) cellulose
cellulose fibres
fibres can
can cause
cause flatulence.
flatulence. "rra
hulled
hulled barley,
barley, 500500g.g. (lS
(18 o2.,2f,
oz., 2* cups)
cups) sugar
sugarand handful oi
and aa hindful of For
For information
information on on sugar
sugar beet,
beet, see
see SUGAR.
SUGAR.
l-top_r i" 4 litres (3] quarts, 4] quarts) water; keep boiling
hops in 4 litres (3t quarts, 4t quarts) water; keep boiling Beetroot
Beetroot leaves are perfectly
Ieaves are perfectly edible,
edible, and
and are
are used
used in in manv
many
forforf1hour. Removefrom
hour. Remove from heat,heat,aaa
add tO 10g.g.(*(~oz.) yeastand
oz.) yeast and td10 recipes. In
recipes. In France
France thethe roots,
roots, boiled
boiled oror baked,
baked, areare used
used asas
litres
litres(9(9quarts,
quarts,I IlI quarts)
quarts)water.water. garnish
garnish for for salads, hors-d'œuvre and
salads, hors-d'euvre and various
various game entrées.
game entries.
Leave
Leavetotoferment
fermentfor for44days,
days,thenthenbottle
bottleand cork. (A
and cork. (Alittle
little Wash
Washand and scrub
scrubthethebeets
beetswith
withaa brush.
brush. DryDry tlem
them andand bake
bake
bu_rnt,sugar
burnt sugarmay maybe beadded
added totothis giveititcolour.)
beertotogive
this beer colour.) in
in the.
the oyen. They They areare ready
ready when
when they
they bLgin
begin to to .give,
'give' aa
place. -
Mah
Maltbeer.beer.sriRE
BIÈREos MALT-- This
DEMALr Thisbeerbeerisisobtainod
obtainedby adding
byadding little, -oven.
little, ififpressed
pressed with
with aa finger.
finger. Keep
Keep inin aa cool
cool place.
concentrated
concentratedmalt maltextract
extracttotothe thewort
wortand Iettingititfermeni
andletting ferment Beet i à l'anglaise.
Beet BETTERAVES A
l'anglaise. BETTERAvEs L'ANGLAISE _
À I'aNGLArsp Choose
- Choose
slightly.ItIthas
slightly. hasmuch
muchgreater
greaternutritive
nutritivepropertieJ
propertiesthan than ordi_
ordi- tender beets, peel,
tender beets, cut into
peel, cut into slices
slices and
and boil in salted
boil in salted water.
water.
nary
narybeer beerand
andisisused
usedasasaatonic,tonic,ororforfornuising
nursingmothers.
mothers. Drain,
Drain,dry dryand servewith
and serve with fresh
fresh butter.
butter.

l18
118
 sf,NEotcrN
BÉNÉDICTIN

Beetrooti illalab6chamel.
Beetroot LAntcruurr
SETTERA VESAALA
béchamel.srlrBRA.vES BÉCHAMEL- - Bake
Ba ke dish.)Cover
thisdish.)
this it with very large floury potatoes'
Coyer it with very potaloes.
Season
it.r. und sprinkle with fat or butter' Place a lid onSeason
top'
22beets
beelSinin the
the oven, peel, and
oyen, peel, eut into
and cut into fairly
fairly thick
lhick slices.
slices. these and sprinkJe with fat or a lid on top,
r"uii"g it wlttr a flour-and-water paste' Bake in cinders
Simmergently ininaasaut6
Simmer panwith
sautépan tablespoons(3(3 table-
wÎth22tablespoons table- sealing il with a ftour-and-water paste. Bake in cinders
mixeiwith glowing charcoal for 4 to 5 hours' Serve in the
spoons)butter and
spoons) pinehofofsalt.
andaapinch salt. mixed with charcoal for 4 to 5 hours. Serve in the
recbptacle in which it has been cooked'
To serve, cover
Ta serye, wîth not
caverwith nOI too thick Bichamel
too thick sauce (see
Béchamelsauce (see reœptacle in has beell cooked.
SAUCE),to(0which
SAUCE), whichbutter
butlerhas beenadded.
hasbeen added. BELGIUM See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY'
RELGIUM- - Sec INTERNATIONAL COOKERY.
Beetrootinincream.
Beetroot BETTERA VESAÀr.l
cream.BETTERAvEs LAcntue
CRÊME-- Stew slicesof
Stewslices of
An excellent winter dessert pear
beet butter. Dilute
beetininbutter. panjuices
thepan
Dilutethe dl.(f(tpint, scant
with44dl.
juieeswith scant BELLE-ALLlANCE -- An excellent
BELLE-ALLIANCE winter dessert pear
22 cups)
ClipS) pre-boiled
pre-boîled cream. Cook down
cream. Cook by half,
down by season,
season, ip"".*U". and January). The skin is yellowish on one side
(Oecember and January). The skin is yellowish on one side
other.
remove from
remove from heat, blend inin 50
heat, blend 50 g.g. Q oz., Il cup)
(2 oz., cup) butter,
butter, andand and redon
and red on thethe other.
pour
pourover
overthethe beets.
beets. Variety of large winter pear' Its skin
BELLE-ANGEVINE-- Variety oflarge
BELLE-ANGEVINE winter pear. Ifs skin
Beetmot for
Beetroot for garnish. BITTERA VES PouR
garllish. BETTERAvES GARNITVRES --
POlSR GARNITURES ir!t.* becomes bright yellow, flushed with red
tirsl,then
is green atatfirst, then becomes brîght yellow, l1ushoo wilh red
well-shaped, uniformly
Choosewell-shaped,
Choose unifonnlysized beetrooL Bake
sized beetroot. theminin
Dake them
and pitted with
and brown.
wi th brown.
the allow to
oyen, allow
the oven, becorne quite
to become quite cold, peel. Cut
and peel.
cold, and Cut into
into in February and March, is better to
pear, in
This pear, in season
season in February and March, is beUer to
slices or
slices d ice. or
or dice, or shred in 10 aajulienne.
sh red into julienne. look atlhan to eat, and is used mostly for.filling decorative
look at than 10 cat, and is used mostly for filling decorative
Prepa re<! in
Prepared this way
in this beetroor can
way beetroot can be served as
be served as aa garnish
gamish fruit.
baskelS of
baskets of fruit.
for IlDrs-d'œu\'re or
for hors-d'euvre or for
for salads.
salads.
Variety of peach, with bright red
Beetroot in
Beetroot in gravy. BETTERAVEs
BETTERA VES AU AU JUs Proceed as
JUS -- Proceed as de-
de- BELLE-CHEVREUSE ---
BELLE-CHEVREUSE of pcach, with red
scribed in the recipe for skin. It should be eaten when it is just ripe; when it is too
BeetroOl in
for Beetroot cream, replacing
În cream, replacing the the skin. It should be eaten when il just ripe; when is too
latter by 2 dl. (+ pint, scant scant cup) thickened brown
Clip) thickened brown veal
veal stock.
stock. ripe, its flesh becomes'sleePY'.
ripe, its ftesh becomes ·sleepy'.
Boil the beets in stock for
in the stock for aa few
few moments. Another name for a variety of pear
BELLE-DE-BERRY -- Another name for a variety of pear
moments. BELLE-DE-BERRY
Beetroot IIl la
Beetroot la lyonnaise. BEITERAVES AÀ u.
lyonnaise. BETTERAvEs LYONNAISE -- Melt
LA rvorvNllsn Melt called poire de curi'
called poire de curé.
50 g. (2
50 butter in
oz., I~. cup) butter
(2 oz., in aa pan,
pan, addadd 44 tablespoons
tablespoons (5 (5
Pear with mediocre flesh, usually
tablespoons) finely chopped chopped onion,onÎon, cook slowly without
cook slowly without BELLE-ET-BONNE -- Pear with mediocre flesh, usually
BELLE-ET-BONNE
in syrup or red wine.
allowing it to colour, add beetroot and
sliced beetroot
add sliced and simmer
simmer cooked
cooked in syrup or red wine.
together.
together. Peach which ripens in September and
(* pint, BELLE-GARDE -- Peach which ripens
BELLE-GARDE in September and
Before moisren with
serving, moisten
Before serving, with 2 2 dl. scant
dL Ci pint, scant cup) cup) October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for
October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for
thickened brown
thickened brown veal veal stock.
stock. compotes and in
compotes and in Pastry-making.
pastry-making.
BEITERAVES À u
Beelroot ià la poitevine.
Beetroot poitevine. BErrERAvEs.l, portEvtt'ts - Stew
LA POlTEVIl\i"E - $tew
BELLONE - A variety of very large fig, which grows in
becrroot for a few
sliced beetroot moments in
few moments dl. (*
in 22 dl. Ci pint' scant
sC<tnt cup)
cup) BELLOI'\'E - A variety of large fig, which grows in
These figs are used for preserves'
Lyonnaise sauce (se
Lyonnaise sauce SAUCE). Add
(see SAUCE)' Add a a tablespoon vinegarvinegar Provence.
Provence. These figs are used preserves.
before serving. BELON -- River
BELON in Brittany. The oysters of the beds there
River in Brinany. The oysters of the beds there
Stuffd
Stuffed beetroot cassolettes. CASSOLETTES cAssoLETTEs DE DE BETTERAvES
BETTERAVES bear the same name.
bear the same name.
cARMES -- These
GARNIES These are are served
served as as hors-d'œuvre.
hors-d'euvre. Bake large
Bake large sA'TTHAZAR - Colloquial usage for copious
BELSHAZZAR. BALTHAZAR
BELSHAZZAR. -- Colloquial usage for copious
beets in the oyen
oven and en! cut them into thick slices.
into thick Trim these
slices. Trim to
these 10
the famous feasts mentioned in the
to the
meals;
meals; an an allusion
allusion to famous feasts mentîoned in the
look like casso/elles
look like cassolettes and fill with
and flll with cold hors'd'euvre com-
cold hors-d'œuvre com-
Bible.
position: salpicons
position: salpicons (q.v.)(q.v.) ofof hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs, fish, vege-
eggs' fish, vege- Bible.
dressed with
tables, dressed with mayonnaise,
mayonnaise, various pur6es, etc.
various purées, etc' BELUGA (Huso Huso) Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Bjack
- The white sturgeon of the Black
Sea, Caspian Sea and other waters' It is the largest of the
Name use<! in some of France
parts of
some parts for the
France for the Sea, Sea and other wa lers. ft is the largest of the
BEGUINETTE -- Name
BÉGUJNETTE used in sturgeon family, producing the best caviafe'
garden warbler. sturgeon family, producing the bcsl caviare.
garden for a variety of ortolan found in the
BENARI -- Local Local name
BÉNARI name for a variety ofinortolan found in the
BEIGNETS -- See
BEIGNETS FRITTERS.
SCC FRITTERS. Languedoc district They are fattened the same way as the
district. They are fattened in the same way as lhe
Beignets
Beignet fours) 1I -- Pound
(petits fours)
.. (petits Pound 500 oz.' 33]
(18 oz.,
500 g. (18 t cups) Landes district ortolans. For methods of preparation see
district ortolans. For methods of preparation see
almonds wi
blancfied almonds
blanched with 500 g.g. (18
th 500 oz., 2] cups)
(18 OZ., sugar and 55
cups) sugar ORTOLAN.
ORTOLAN.
egg whites.
egg whites. BENEDICTIN (Cake) (Cake) - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz.,
Add 22 whole
Add whole eggs,
eggs, and flavour with
and flavour vanilla' orange
with vanilla, orange or or BÉNÉDICTIN - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz.,
2! cups) ground almonds, 250 g- (9 oz., generous cup) fine
lemon peel,
lemon or shredded
peel, or crystallised pineapple.
shredded cryslallised Colour with
pineapple. COIOUf with 2!.igut, j *ttot" eggs almonds, 250 g.yolks.
and 12 egg
(9 OZ.,When the mixture
cup) flneis
carmini or or green vegetable colouring colouring agent. Fold inin J16
agent. Fold sugar, eggs and 12 egg yolks. the mixture is
carmine 6 r-toih, add 2 more eggs, one by one. Mix well, and add I
stiffiy whisked egg
stiffly egg whites, and and spoon
spoon intointo bUHered
buttered andand smooth, add 2 more eggs, one by one. 100 Mix g. well, and add 1
(4 oz,
tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; and
f10ured petits fours moulds.
flouied petilsfours Decorate with
moulds. DecoraU! with pieces
piecesof candied
of candied tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; andpotato 100 g.flour
(4 OZ.,
which1I cup)
:"p)
have
sieved flour, and 100 g. (4 oz',3
orange or
orange pineapple. Sprinkle
or pîneapple_ Sprinkle withwith iCÎng
icing sugar
sugarand bake ininaa
and bake sieved Oour, and 100 (4 oz., ",-tp) potato flour which have
been first sieved together.
slowoyen.
slow oven. been flfst sieved
baking tins, sprinkle with flour, and 611 lvvs-lhirds
Butterbakîng
Beigneb IItr --- Pound
Pound together 250 250g.g-(9(9oz.,oz, Illf cups)
cups)
full
Butter sprinkle with flour, and fil] two-thirds
with the caki mixtuie. Bake in an oven at 180'C. (350'F.,
almonds and
blanched almonds and 250 g_g.(9(9oz., generous cup)
oz.,generous cup)sugar.
sugar' full with the cake mixture. Bake in an oven at 180°c' (350°F.,
Gas Mark 4). Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are
Addone white totothe mixtureand
themixture blend ininone
andblend onewhole egg'
whole egg. Gas Mark 4): Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are
Add oneegg
egg white
baked and cool on a flat wire rack. Sprinkle each cake with
with vanilla.
Flavour with
Flavour vanilla. baked and cool on a flat wire rack. each cake with
Benedictine, and when this is absorbed, cover the tops and
Whisk88cgg
Whisk into a very stifffroth and fold them into
whites into
eggwhites Benedictine, and when this is coyer' the IOps and
sides of the cakes with thick apricot jatn. Decorate the sides
mixture.Spoon
themixture.
the Spoonintointo small biscuit moulds, with
sprinkle with
moulds,sprinkJe sides of the cakes with thick apricot jarn. Decorale the sides
withchopped
with chopped roasted almonds.
roasted almonds.
icingsugar,
icing sugar,and bakeininaaslow
andbake slowoyen.oven.
Ice the top of the cakes with pale yellow fondanticingwhich
lce the top of the cakes with pale yellow
BEILCI{E - - AAdish thatgoes
dish,har farback
goesfar backininthe historyofof
thehistory has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when it is sel make
BElLCHE has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when il is
patternofof squareson on it with mauve fondant icing, using a
Germancuisine.
German caisine. a apattern it wÎlh mauve fondant square with half a
a
Trimand andremove
remove[he thefat roundofofbeef
froma around
fatfrom beef.Make sur-
Makesur- forcing-bag. Decotate the the centre of each
Trim forcing-bag. centre of each square a
incisionscross-wise
faceincisions
face overitit(these
cross-wise ailallover (theseculS
cutsmust notbebe
mustoot pistachio nut.
pistachio nuL
toodeep). insidethe
Seasoninside
deep).Season incisionswith
theincisions withsalt, pepperand
salt,pepper and The same mixture can be used for small iced petits fours'
too The same mixture can be use<:! forabove, smaU buticed ispetits fours.in
steeped
spices.
spices. TheThecakecakeisismademade as described
as described above, but icing'
is steeped in
(In
pan'(ln and cut into uniform squares before Decorate
Placethe
Place beefinina alarge
thebeef terrineOforcast-iron
largeterrine cast-ironpan. liqueurand
liqueur eut into uniform squares before icing. Dccorate
Germany,a aspecial silverrcceptable
specialsilver receptableused employedfor
usedtotohebeemployed for eich petit foar with a mauve fondant spiral'
Germany, each petit four with a mauve fondant spiral.
119
119
BENEDICTINE
BENEDICTINE

BENEDICTINE. BÉNÉDICTINE
BENEDICTINE. s6NforcrrNE -- Renowned
Renowned French liqueur
French liqueur BERNARD (Émile)
BERNARD (Erit") -- Famous
Famous nineteenth
nineteenth century
century chef
chef
invented by
invented by the Benedictine monks
the Benedictine monks atat the Abbey of
the Abbey of Fécamp,
F6camp, employed by
employed Wilhekn l,I, King
by Wilhelm King of
of Prussia. In collaboration
Prussia. In collaboration
and still
and produced there.
still produced there. with Urbain
with Urbain Dubois
Dubois he wrote one
he wrote of the
one of the best cookery books
best cookery books
BENfDICTII\B (À (A LA)
LA) -- Garnish of the
of period: Cuisine
the period: Cuisine classique.
classique.
BÉNÉDICTINE Garnish suitable
suitable forfor poached
poached fish
fish
or eggs,
or composed of
eggs, composed of aa brandade (q.v.) of
brandade (q.v.) of cod
cod and truffies.
and truffies. BERRICHONNE (À
BERRICHONNE (A LA)
LA) -- Garnish
Garnistr used for large
used for large cuts of
cuts of
Salt cod ài la
Salt cod h bénédictine. uonun Ài, LA
benedictine. MORUE sfNEorcrrNE -- The
L,c, BÉNÉDICTINE The meat and especially
meat and especially for mutton. ItIt isis composed
for mutton. composed of of braised
braised
cod pounded as
cod isis pounded for brandade,
as for but mixed
brandade, but with potatoes
mixed with potatoes cabbage, sm
cabbage, small onions, chestnuts
ail onions, chestnuts andand rashers
rashers ofof streaky
streaky
prepared as
prepared for purée.
as for pur6e. (See SALT COD.)
(See SALT COD.) bacon.
bacon.
BERRY -- The
BERRY The richest
richest sheep producing region
sheep producing region ofof France. But
France. But
lamb and
lamb mutton are
and mutton not the
are not only gastronomic
the only gastronomic assets of
assets of
Berry. The
Berry. province has
The province always had
has always reputation for
had aa reputation for bonne
bonne
chCre and
chère produces many
and, produces many other
other delicacies, solid and
delicacies, solid liquid.
and liquid.
The cuisine
The of the
cuisine of Berry region
the Berry region has an agreeable
has an simplicity.
agreeable simplicity.
There is
There the fine
is the poultry of
fine poultry of Bourges, ground and
good ground
Bourges, good winged
and winged
game, aa great
game, of freshwater
variety of
great variety freshwater fish, including Vierzon
fish, including Vierzon
Joseph Berchoux
Joseph (l 765-l 839)
Berchoux (1765-1839) lamprey, and
lamprey, and excellent
excellent fruit and
and vegetables.
vegetables.

BERCHOLIX (Joseph)
BERCHOUX (Joseph) -- French poet, born
French poet, born atat Saint-
Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire)
Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire) inin 1765, who made
1765, who made aa name
name forfor
himself in gastronomical
himself in gastronomical literature
literature with
with aa poem
poem entitled
entitled la
Ia
Gastronomie, published in
Gastronomie, published in 1800.
1800. Berchoux
Berchoux was was not
not a
gastronome, but
gastronome, but his poem was
his poem was valued for its
valued for its zest and light-
zest and ligbt-
hearted, witty tone,
hearted, witty and was
tone, and was included
included in in aa volume
volume of of
gastronomic writers
gastronomic writers of
of the quality of
the quality Grimod de
of Grimod Reynibre
de la Reynière
and Brillat-Savarin,
and published by
Brillat-Savarin, published Charpentier in
by Charpentier in 1829
l82g
under the
under the title les Classiques
title les Classiques de la table.
de la table.

Argenton-sur-Crelx
Argenton-sur-Creuse (French Tourisi Ofice)
Government Tourist
(French Government Office)

Bergamot

Cufinavy specialities - These include

Culinary specialities SOUps with truches or
include soups
tartouffes (potatoes),
(potatoes), with reuves and salt pork; sanguine, a
kind of
kind of pancake
pancake made made with chicken's blood;
with chicken's blood; various
various
matelotes; citrouillat (pumpkin pie); sauciaux, a
(pumpkin pie); a peasant
pancake;
pancake; truffiat, home-made potato scone; scone; grignaudcs,flat
grignaudes, fiat
made of
cakes made
cakes of pork greaves or
pork greaves or cracklin
cracklings;gs; poulet
poulet enen
barbouille,
barbouille, chicken
chicken coatedcoated with
with its
its own
own blood; matafan,
pancake; potato
pancake; potato gouere
gouère or or gouiron.
gouéron.
BERGAMOT
BERGAMOT ORANGE. BERGAMOn: - Fruit
ORANGE. BERGAMoTE of
Fruit of the the Wines - Wine
Wines Wine connoisseurs
connoisseurs have have a high regard for
high regard for the
the
bergamot tree, aa kind
bergamot tree, kind of orange with
of orange with avery
a very acid but pleasant
acid but pleasant wines of
wines of this region. And,
this region. And, indeed,
indeed, the very dry
the very dry white
white wines
wines
taste. The highly
taste. The scented oil
highly scented oil extracted from
from its
its rind
rind is
is used
used of
of Berry have every right
Berry have right to be acclaimed for
to be for their
their delicacy
delicacy
in
in perfumery,
perfumery, pharmaceutics
pharmaceutics and and confectionery.
confectionery. Candied
Candied and
and bouquet. They all
bouquet. They come from
ail come from the
the Sauvignon grape.
grape.
bergamot
bergamot peel
peel is used in
is used in phtisserie.
pâtisserie. Then
Then there
there areare the wines from
Sancerre wines
the Sancerre from thethe vineyards
vineyards
The bergamots of
The bergamots of Nancy
Nancy are are the
the most sought after
most sought after in
in surrounding the
surrounding town of
the town of that name (immortalised
that name (immortalised by by
confectionery.
confectionery . Balzac)
Balzac) and those in
and those in the
the neighbouring communes, particu-
neighbouring communes, particu-
BERGAMOT larly
larly Bu6,
Bué, Verdigny,
Verdigny, Champtin,
Champtin, Saint-Satur,
Saint-Satur, M6n6trol,
Ménétrol,
BERGAMOT PEAR. BERGAMOTE -- Name
PEAR. BERcAMoTE Name applied
applied toto several
severa!
varieties Reigny,
Reigny, Sury-en-Vaux.
Sury-en-Vaux.
of pear.
varieties of pear. The
The bergamote d'automne is
bergamote d'automne is the
the best.
best.
The hamlet
The hamlet of of Chavignol,
Chavignol, near Sancerre, produces
near Sancerre, produces famous
famous
BERLINGOT -- A
BERLINGOTf A hard, candy variously
sweet candy
hard, sweet variously flavoured,
fiavoured, wine which
wine which thetbe poet
poet Hugues Lapaire, a
Hugues l,apaire, native of
a native of Berry,
Berry,
but usually with
but usually with peppermint.
peppermint. Several regions of
Several regions of France
France have
have placed
placed far
far above
above the rest. Chavignol
the rest. Chavigno! was also highly
was also highly esteemed
esteemed
their
their own special variety
own special variety of
of berlingots; those of
berlingots; those of Carpentras
Carpentras by and by
Balzac and
by Balzac by thethe 'bonne dame' of
'bonne dame' of Nohant
Nohant -- George
George
are renowned.
are renowned. Sand.
Sand.

t20
120
 BEVERAGE
BEVERAGE

GAHE Goat's Milk

VierZOn Watnuts S I Melons
Bgul,
Lamprey C H ER
\ Crayfish. Coq ou vin. SheeP'
lFrffi
//
[::'giti:.T*"6jj' j"j
Confectioherv, Beer l

MARCHE
Gastrollomie of Berry
Gastronomic map or Berry

wines are
These wines with seafood,
are perfect with and with
fish and
seafood, fish with the maintain or
maintain or re-establish
re-establistr normal proportion of
normal proportion of water
watcr in in tbe
the
celebrated goat chccse
celebrated of the
cheese of the region. They areare best
best drunk organism.
slightly chilled. Our bodies
Our bodies concontain approximately 70
Iain approximately 70 per cent water,
An excellent
An dry and
excellent dry fruity
and fruit is also
ros6 is
y rosé produced in
also produœd in eliminating daily
eliminating daily an an average of of 33 litres (5{ pints, 6} pints).
litres (Si
from the
Sancerre from
Sancerre black Pinot
the black In aa good
grape. ln
Pinot grape. good viotage
vintage When the water
When water content
content is is lowered to considerable degree,
to aa C01nsi,cler'able
year aa very
year good red
very good red wine comes.from
wine cornes' the same
from the same source.
source. the sensation
the sensation of of tbirst
thirst results. We therefore
results. We have to
therefore have to replace
Then there
Then there isis Menetou-Salon, nearnear Sancerre, which gives
Sancerre, which the water eliminated,
the watcr eliminated, partly partly byby solîd
solid foods which contain a
foods whieh
white wines
white similar to
wines similar already mentioned. Still in the
to those already considerable proportion ofwater,
considerable of water, partly by liquids.
dipartement of
département of Cher, some white wines of almost
Cher, at Quincy, sorne Numerous beverages have
Numerous have been invented. Apart from milk
been "'VG'''''''-
equally fine quality are
fine quality produced.
are produced. (q.v.) which
(q.v.) which is is considered aa liquîd liquid food, beverages are are
classified in 6ve
classitied five ...categories:
"t'p(1,n.n.""
BESAIGRE -- Tcrm
SESAIGRE Term indicaling
indicating that wine isis beginning
that aa wine beginning to 1.l. Pure water and mineral
Pure water waters (see WATER).
mineral waters
turn sour.
tum sour. Aromatic and
2. Aromatie
2. stimulating infusions (see
and stimulating INFUSIONS'
(see INFUSIONS,

SESJ
BESI -- Name
Name in in the Jura and
the Jura Franche-Comt6 for
and Franche-Comté for salted and
salted and HERBAL TEAS,
HERBAL TEAS, COFFEE, dHOCOTAiN, MATÉ,
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. UEtf, TEA) TE.!t)
of well as
as well
as preparations based
various preparations
as various based on on these: Bavarian
these: Bavarian
dried cow's
drîed meat. ItIt is
cow's meat. is also generic term
also aa generie for aa variety
term for variety of
creams, iecd
creams, iced coffee, bishop, etc.
coffee, bishop, (dealt with
etc. (dealt in alphabetical
with in alphabetical
pear.
pear.
d'Aniou. order).
Besi
Besi de Winter pear,
de Caissoy -- WÎnter pear, also rousette d'Anjou.
called rouselte
also calle<!
which cakes
pear, whieh its na
name from aa juices, freshly
3. Fruit juices, extracted and
freshly extracted and notnot modined
modified by by
Besi rl'H6ry -- Winter pear,
Besi d'Héry takes its me from
in their
their pure state
fermentation, whlch
fermentation, which are drunk either
are drunk either in state
in Brittany
forest in
forest where itit originated.
Brittany where originated.
juice), or
(grape juice),
(grape or mixed
mixed with with water
water and and sugar (lemonade,
sugar (Jelm01naoe,
Besi de
Besi la Motte
de la - Autumn pear
Motte - Autumn with white,
pear with white, succulent
succulent
orangeade, etc.).
orangeade, etc.).
fiesh.
flesh.
4. Fermented
4. Fermented beverages,
beverages, the principal of
the principal of whieh
which tSis winc;
wine;
StTE Term used
ROUSSE -- Term
BETE ROUSSE in France
used in to descrihe
France to wild
describe aa wild then beer,
then perry, hydromel
cider, perry,
beer, eider, hydromel and fruit liqueurs
various fruit
and various liqueurs
boar six
boar six months to one
months to year old.
one year old. (dealt with
(dealt with in in alphabetical
alphabetical order). order). There anotler large
There isis another large
group of
group of fcnnented
fermented or or compound
compound beverages. referred to
beverages, refeITcd to as
as
BEURRE -- JuÎey
BEURRÉ Juicy dessert There are
pear. There
dessert pear. are many
many varicties,
varieties,
economical or or medieinaL
medicinal, whieh will he
which wjll found in
be found in this
this section.
section.
economieaJ
among whieh
among which are
arc beurré gns and
beurrC gris and beurré d'hiver nouveau,
beurrC d'hiver nouveanr,
and distilled
distilled beverages or or mixtures,
mixtures, and and
S.5. Fermented
Fermented and
which reach
whieh maturity in
reach maturity in January and February;
January and beurri
February; beurré preparations based based on alcoholic drinks (dcalt
on alcoholic with inin al·
(dealt with al-
Cappiannonf,
Cappiannonf, Oetober and November;
October and Gifard, ripe
beurr| Giffard,
Novembet; beurré ripe phabetical order).
at the
at the end
end of July, and
of July, and beu.rré Diel.
beurrC Die!.
Quantity and temperarure
temperature of of beverages -
beverages - The The normal
normal
BEVERAGE. BoIssoN -- Liquid
BBVERAGE. BOISSON Liquid taken by the
taken by mouth to
the mouth to intake of beverages
beverages varies according to
varies according to their nature, the
their nature, the

t2l
121
BEVERAGES IN
BEVERAGES IN DIETETICS
DIETETICS

requirements of
requirements of thethe organism,
organism, outside outside temperature
temperature and and Generally speaking,
Generally speaking, aa man absorbsinin twenty-four
man absorbs twenty-four hours
hours
state of
state of health.
health. Excessive
Excessive intake intake of of liquids
liquids diminishes
diminishes many cubic
as many
as cubic cm. of water
cm. of water as he ingests
as he calories. The
ingests calories. The need
need
appetite and
appetite and impedes digestion. In
impedes digestion. In sorne
some cases cases itit isis advisable
advisable for water
for water isis related to the
related to the chemical
chemical composition
composition of of the
the diet.
diet.
toto increase
increase the intake of
the intake of Iiquids
liquids in in order
order to to improve
improve elimina-
elimina- protein-rich diet
AA protein-rich diet requires
requires aa considerable
considerable hydrous
hydrous intake.
intake.
tion and
tion and cleanse
cleanse the the organism.
organism. In In others,
others, itit isis advisable
advisable to to
reduce the intake of
the intake of liquids.
liquids. FERMENTED BEVERAGES.
FERMENTED BEVERAGES. BOISSONSnolssoNs FERMENTÉES
rprurmurErs -- The The
reduce manufacture of of fennented
fermented drinks
Should beverages
beverages be be taken
taken with with meals meals or or inin between
between manufacture drinks demands
demands aa series of opera-
series of opera-
Should tions, often
often complicated.
complicated. Spontaneous
meals? Man
meals? Man alone alone drinks drinks wbile while eating;eating; other other animais
animals tions, fermentation of
Spontaneous fennentation of
separate their their solid
solid feeding
feeding from from absorption
absorption ofliqu.ids. grapes, apples,
grapes, apples, oranges, pineapples may
oranges, pineapples may have produced aa
have produced
separate of liquids. Halfa Half a
litre (scant
(scant pin pint,2t cups) waterwater drunk drunk on on an an empty
empty stomach
stomach pleasant drink by
pleasant drink by chance;
chance; but
but chance
chance does not account
does not account forfor
litre t, 2* cups) alcoholic fennentation
the alcoholic fermentation of
leaves itit in in less than half
less than half an hour. The
an hour. The waterwater would would remainremain in in the of cows',
cows', mares'
mares' and and she-camels'
she-camels'
leaves milk, which
which does not take
the stomach
stomach much much longerlonger if if accompanied
accompanied by by other
other food.food. A A milk, does not place of
take place its own
of its own accord.
accord. Still
Still
the more curious,
curious, historically
historically speaking,
meal eaten without drinking
eaten without drinking isis digested
digested quickerquicker and better. It
and better. It more speaking, isis the
the transfonnation
transformation
meal of cereal into fermented
crops into fermented liquor.
of cereal crops liquor. Small
Small tribes in the
tribes in far
the far
isis advisable,
advisable, therefore,
therefore, in in diets
diets for for people
people suffering
suffering from from
past, having fruit nor
dyspepsia and and enteritis
enteritis to to separate
separate the intake qf
the intake solids and
o.f solids and past, neither fruit
having neither milk nor
nor milk nor cereals
cereals at at their
their
dyspepsia
liquids. They They should
should drink drink an an hourhour or or so so before
before the the meal,
meal, so so
disposal, managed
disposai, managed to to produce
produce an an intoxicating
intoxicating beverage
beverage
liquids. from thethe tubers of cassava
as toto ensure
ensure that that thethe stomach
stomach is empty in
is empty in time
time for for sol
solid food. from tubers of cassava oror sweet potatoes. The
sweet potatoes. The use of
use of
as id food. fermented liquors
liquors appears peculiar to
result will
The result will not
not be be thethe same if the taken afterafter the fennented appears toto be
be aa need
need peculiar mankind.
to mankind.
The same if liquid isis taken
the liquid the
meal; the
meal; the stomach
stomach will will be full. and
be full, and the conditions
the condi tions willwill bebe thethe
same as as when drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy
same wb en drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy
people, however,
people, however, providedprovided the amount of
the amount of drink
drink takentaken is not
is not
so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply.
so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply.
Too much
Too much meat, highly spiced
meat, highly spiced dishes dishes and and the the excessive
excessive
use of
use of salt,
salq considerably
considerably increases increases the the sensation
sensation of of thirst.
thirst.
Diet consisting
Diet consisting mainly mainly of of vegetables,
vegetables, containing containing little little salt,
salt,
does not
does not provoke
provoke thirst thirst so much.
so much.
Moderately wann
Moderately warm beverages
beverages dilate dilate the the bloodblood vessels
vessels of of
the stomach,
the stomach, are are better
better absorbed,
absorbed, and and quenchquench thirst thirst
efficiently. If
efficiently. If too
too cold,
cold, theythey cause cause the the contraction
contraction of of the the
abdominal capillary
abdominal capillary system,system, and and may may lead lead to to disorders,
disorders, at at
times of
times of aa serious nature: colic,
serious nature: precordial anxiety,
colic, precordial anxiety, and and even even
syncopes (Joss
syncopes (loss of consciousness from
ofconsciousness from fall fall ofofblood
blood pressure).
pressure).
These disorders
These disorders are are more
more likely likely to occur if
to occur one drinks
if one drinks aa
quantity of
quantity cold liquid
of cold quickly. To
Iiquid quickly. To prevent
prevent such such occurrences,
occurrences,
sportsmen are
sportsmen advised to
are advised to drink
drink hot hot beverages
beverages after after violent
violent
exercise.
exercise. Such Such accidents
accidents occur occur less frequently with
less frequently with iced
drinks, because
drinks, because these these can can onlyonly be swallowed in
be swallowed in small
small sips.sips.
The palate's
The palate's reaction
reaction to to various
various temperatures
temperatures of of beverages
oeverages
varies according to
varies according to their
their nature.
nature. Below Below 6" 6° to 8°e. (43.
to 8.C. (43° to
47"F.)
47°F.) water water givesgives the impression of
the impression of being ice-cold; it
being ice-cold; it is
is
pleasantly
pleasantly cool cool at (54°F.), it
12°e. (54"F.),
at 12"C. becomes warm
it becomes wann and
unpleasant at
unpleasant at l6'C.
16°e. (61'F.),
(61°F.), and and at 25"C.-(77"F.)
at 25°C: (77°F.) it it is
is too
hot for
hot for mostmost people. Aerated water
people. Aerated water seems seems colder colder than tban
ordinary
ordinary water water at 6°e. (43'F.)
at 6"C. (43°F.) owing owing to to the release of
the release of carbon
carbon
dioxide, and
dioxide, and remains cold
remains cold up up to 10 e. (50"F.),
to lO'C. 0
(50°F.), becoming
becoming
pleasantly
pleasantly cool cool up up toto l7'C.
17°e. (62"F.).
(62°F.).
The temperature of
The temperature of milk
milk at at thethe farm
farm immediately
immediately after after
milking
milking varies varies between
between 33" 33° and and 34'C.34°e. (91" (91° and and 93"F.).
93°F.).
When heated to
When heated 55° to
to 55" 56°e. (l31° to
to 56'C. (131" 133°F.) itit seems
to 133.F.) seems very Cabaretier selling drinks
hot
hot and causes perspiration.
and causes perspiration. ,",n"31,1il!5f lf lll,1i,o,l8,'r-,r,
in the seventeenth century (Guérard)
Wines. The
Wines. The best temperature for
best temperature for an an average
average white wbite winewine is is
about l0'C.
about 10 e. (50'F.).
0
(50°F.). Some Sorne wines,wines, such such as as Sauternes,
Sauternes, can can be be Barley
Barley cordial. D'ORGE -
BOISSON D'oRcE
cordial. BorssoN - Put
Put 5CI500 g.g. (18
(18 oz.)
oz.)
chilled (frappis).
chilled (frappés). ordinary
ordinary barleybarley andand 200 g. (7
200 g. oz.) couch grass
(7 oz.) grass into
into 2020 litres
litres
Sparkling
Sparkling wines wines shouldshould only only be cooled by
be cooled ice, without
by ice, without (4] gallons, 5]
(41 gallons, 5t gallons) Boil. Add
water. Boil.
gallons) water. Add 100 100 g.g. (4(4 oz)
oz.)
adding
adding salt salt (often
(often an expedient in
an expedient in aa restaurant
restaurant for for clients
clients Iiquorice cut
liquorice cut into small pieces.
into small Leave to
pieces. Leave to get
get cold,
cold, strain,
strain,
who
who are are in in aa hurry).
hurry). These These wines wines lose lose aa great great dealdeal of of their
their and
and bottle.
bottle.
quality at a temperature
quality at a temperature below below 6"C. (43"F.).
6°e. (43°F.). Red Red wines,
wines, Barley
Barley water. EAU D'oRGE
water. EAU Pour boiling
D'ORGE -- Pour boiling water
water on on aa hand-
hand-
especially
especially the tbe great wines of
great wines ofBordeaux, ful
brought
Bordeaux, are served chambris
are served chambrés- - fui of of barley and bring
barley and bring to the boil
to the Pour off
again. Pour
boil again. the water
off the water
brought slowly slowly to to room temperature (16o
room temperature (16° to to 18"C.,
18°e., 61" 61° to to and replace with
and replace with boiling
boiling water,
water, this
this time boiling for
time boiling for 1515 to
to 20
20
64"F.).
64°F.). Burgundy
Burgundy wines wines are are drunk
drunk at at aa cooler
cooler temperature,
temperature, minutes.
minutes.
and light
and light white
white wineswines are served cold.
are served cold. IfIf pearl
pearl or
or hulled
hulled barley
barley is used, I1 tablespoon
is used, tablespoon per per litre
litre
(scant
(scant quart, generous quart)
quart, generous quart) water, there isis no
water, there need to
no need to boil
boil
BEVERAGES IN
BEVERAGES IN DIETETICS. BOISSON rN
DIETETICS. sorssoN EN orertrreuE
DIÉTÉTlQUE- - itit in
in two waters. Cook
two waters. Cook the barley until
the barley the grains
until the grains split.
split.
Beverages are
Beverages are of importance in
supreme importance
of supreme in dietetics.
dietetics. Water, Water, Cider type tlrink.
Cider type drink. BorssoN
BOISSON FAgoN Blend llIl litres
CIDRE -- Blend
FAÇON crDRE litres
man's natural beverage, is essential to
man's natural beverage, is essential him. ItIt isis possible
to him. possible to to (2|
(21 gallons,
gallons, 33 gallons) water, I1 litre
gallons) water, litre (If,
(li- pints,
pints, generous
generous
go up to
go up to forty days, and
fort y days, and even more, without
even more, eating ifif one
witbout eating one quart)
quart) double ~eer, l0
double !eer, g. (*
10 g. (t oz.)
oz.) citric
ci tric acid and aa large
acid and large glass
glass
drinks large quantities
drinks large quantities ofof water;
water; being deprived of
being deprived of itit leads
leads brandy.
brandy. StirStirwell.
weil. Decant
Decant into
into bottles
bottles and tie down
and tie down thethe corks.
corks.
to
to death.
death. This
Thisdrinkdrink will ready for
be ready
will be usein
for use in 55to days' time.
to 66days' time.

r22
122
 BEVERAGES IN
BEVERAGES IN DIETETICS
DIETETlCS

Clairet -- Boil
Boil 6*
6t kg. (l4-!- lb.)
kg. (14+ lb.) carrots and 125 g. (4
125 g. (4 oz.)
oz.) and
and 75 75 g. (3 o2.,6
g. (3 tablespoons) fine
oz., 6 tablespoons) sugar, and
fine sugar, stir well.
and stir well. Leave
Leave
liquorice
liquorice roots in l0
fOOts in litres (9
10 litres quarls, ll
(9 quarts, 11 quarts) water.
waler. to stand for
ta stand 24 hours,
for 24 then filter.
hours, then tilter.
Strain, pressing the ingredients so
the ingredients so as to 10 extract as much much Honey
Honcy water. water. slu MlELLÉE -- Dissolve
EAU I\,IIEIIEE sorne pure
Dis,<;olve some honey in
pure honey in
liquid
liquid as as possible. hot
hot water,
water, add add a little
liule nrm
mm or brandy and
or brandy dash of
and aa dash of vinegar.
vinegar.
Add
Add 250 e. g. Q (9 oz.) tartaric acid, 250 g. (9 oz,2{ cups) ItIi isii> aa refreshing
refreshing drinkdrink but does not
but does not keep.
ground ginger, 2 2 kg. (41b., lb., 9 cups) brown sugar and 2 Hop
Hop drink. BorSSON AU
drink. BoIssoN HOUBLON - Put into
AU HouBLoN -into aa 20-litre
20-litre
litres (3*
litres (3! pints, 4| pints) brandy to the liquid. ($-gallon,5fgallon)
(4}-gaUon, crock I1 ke. (2i Qtlb.,
lb., 41
+
cups) sugar,
sugar, 22
Pour into into a barrel of 100 litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) handfuls hop flowers, 8
handfuls to l0 orange
8 to Icaves and a
orange leaves a glass
capacity. Fill with water, and leave for 8 days. Bottle and
capacity. vinegar. Fill with
vinegar. wiÙJ water. Leave to
water. Leave rnacerate for
to macerate for 22 days,
cork, tying tying down down the corks. stirring frequently. Strain
stirrîng frequently. through a
Strain through a cloth, deeant into
c1oth, decant into
EconomicaJ drink
Economical drink I. ECONOMIQUE -- To
BOISSON fcoNoutQun
I. BotssoN To make boules, and cork, tying
bottles, down the corks.
tying down
litres (13 gallons, 16|
60 litres
60 161- gallons), put put 4 4 litres (3| (3i quarts, Hydromel (Codex
Hydromel recipe) - Dilute
(Codex recipe) Dilute 100'9.
1OOg. G (4 oz.,
oz.,! cup) pure
] cup) pure
4|
4:1 quarts)
quarts) red or white white wine into in to a tun, add add 56 litres (12{ (l2k white honey in 11 litre (If,
white honey (1 t pints, generous
generous quart) quart) warmwarm water,water,
gallons, 15|
gallons, 1st gallons) water, 2 kg.
gallons) water, kg. e4(41 lb.,
lb., 9 cups)
cups) sugar
sugar and strain.
strain.
(having dissolved it before putting it into
(having ioto the tun), a a small Vinous hydromel is made from one part
Vinous hydromel part honey and three three
lemon
lemon cut eut into pieces and tied in a muslin bag. Leave
and tied Leave for parts water.
wa ter.
5 tota 6 days, stirring once once a a day, decant into bottles, storing storing Hygienic and and refreshirE drink. HYGIÉN1QUE sr
BOISSON nvcdNtQus
drink. BoIssoN ET
them upright.
them n.arnlicrrlssANrE - Mix 50 litres 1itres (II(11 gallons,
gallons, 14 14 gallons)
ECOllomiCal drink
Economical drink II.II. BoIssoN ÉCONOMIQUE -
BmSSON EcoNonnQuE Put into
- Put into a I
water, litre (lj} pints, generous quart)
pints, generous quart) brandy,brandy, I litre
receptacle 20litres
receptacle 20 litres (4j gallons, 5] gallons) water, I1 litre (lf (scant pint,2lcups) coffee coffee andand I1 kg. (2*1b.,4|
(2t lb., 4i cups)cups) brown
generous quart) wine, I kg.Q*1b.,4+
pints, generous lb., cups) sugar and sugar together. Stir well. weIL
I1 lemon
lemon cut eut intointo slices. Leave Leave to macerate for
10 macerate for 4 days, Kefr. rfrn - This beverage, made from fermented cows' cows'
stirring once a day. Bottle Bottle and tie down the corks. This drink milk,
rnilk, isii> used in bordefing on
in countries bordering on the Caucasus. The
the Caucasus. The
will be ready for use in 4 to 6 days' time. lime. fermented kefir kefu is dried, preserved, and
dried, preserved, transportcd in
and transported in thethe
Elderblossom cordial. BoIssoN
Elderblossom BOISSON DE SUREAU -- Take
DE SIJREAU Take a barrel of of form
form of of grains called ca lied pousse touiours. They They multiply
multlply in- in-
about 60 litres (13 gallons, l6f gallons) capacity, enlarge
(! 3 gallons,l6t enlarge the definitely by fermentation, so so that a minute quantity
a minute quantity is is
bung hole and and fillfil! the barrel with water. Put the following
barrel wîth enough to produce any amount of of kefir.
ketir.
ingredients into aa muslin muslin bag: 2 ke. (4f,1b., cups) refined
lb., 9 cups) Allow 40 a0 g.g. (ll
(11 oz.) kefir to t.o 1I litre
litre (seant quart, generous
(scant quart, generous
sugar or, ifthat
sllgar if that is not available, ordinary granulated sugar, quart)
quart) water.water. Put Put the the kefir into aa stone
kefir into stone jug, dilute with
jug, dilute with
100 g.g. (4 oz.) dried elderblossom, 50 g. g. (2 oz.) hops, 1I lemon
oz.'1hops, water, slightly, stir,
sweeten slightly,
waler, sweeten stir, and
and leave
leave for for 24 24 hours.
hours. Stir Stir
eut into pieces and
cut and the juice squeezed
thejuice squeezed into the water, water, and and 2t 2l again, leave leave for 44 days, days, and and bottle.
bOille. Ready Ready for for use
use in in 66 or or
(scant I pint,
dl. (seant pin t, generous cup) vinegar. Leave to infuse for 5 7 days' time arter after bottling.
days, stirring with aa stick stick once aa day. Leave to rest
day. Leave rest onon the Lemonade -- See
Lemonade See LEMONADE.
sixth day and bottle on on the seventh (decanting into cham- Fizzy lemollade.
lemonade. LIMONADE GAZEUSE -- Ordinary
Lnvrone,DE GAZEUSE Ordinary lemonade
lemonade
pagre bottles,
pagne boUles, if possible). Tie down the corks. This beverage
ifpossible). aerated with carbon dioxide
aeraled dioxide by means means ofaerating apparatus.
of aerating apparatus.
will be readyready for use in 5 days' time. Keep the bottles boUles upright Lemonade with pomegranate juice.
Lemonade juice. LfMONADE
LMoNADE AU AtI SUCsuc DE DE
in the cellar. cRENADE -- Extract the juice from 6 ripe red
GRENADE pomegranates
red nA,n-."rr,.o,,.,
.Elder and lime cordial. BOISSON
.EIder BoIssoN DE SUREAU TILLEUL -- Mix
sTJREAU ET TILLEUL pressing in aa fruit squeezer or
either by pressing rubbing through
or by rubbing
handful each
aa handful each of eider and lime-tree leaves with 7 litres
elder and litres (6(6 aa sieve.
sieve. AddAdd the juice juice of of 22 lemons and and 2 oranges,
oranges, and and the the
quarts, 7| quarts) water. water. Add Add 250 250 g.g. (9(9 OZ.,
oz., generous eup) cup) zest of
zest of 1I lemon
lemon and and 1I orange.
orange. Add Add twice twice as much water
as much water
sugar, 2lemons and
sugar,2 and 1 glass vinegar. there is
as Ihere
as juice, sugar
is juice, sugar to to taste,
taste, strain through aa fine
strain through fine sieve
sieve
Leave to macerate for 33 days, stirring once aa day.
to maceratc day. Strain, and chill the lemonade.
and chili lemonade.
bottle and and lie tie down corks. This beverage wiU
down corks. will be ready for
be ready for Liquorice and orange water. EAU EAU DE nfcr,tssn À
DE RÉGLISSE t'on.a.Ncn
A L'ORANGE- -
use inin 5 days' days' time. Put 80 to to 100100 g. (3+ to to 44 oz.) well-washed liquorice
oz.) well-washed liquorice roots,roots,
Hippocras. HYPOCRAS HypocRAs -- Spieed Spiced wine, tonie tonic and stomachic.
and stomachic. cut into small pieces, in
eut pan. Add
in aa pan. Add 10 l0 g.g. G(* oz.) orange
orange zest. zest.
There are
There are beer hippocras, eider
beer hippocras, hippocras, rcd
cider hippocras, red wine
wine hip· hip- Cover wiÙJ
Coyer with 4 litreslitres (3{ quarts, 41 4} quarts)
quarts) water,water, boilboil for for
pocras, ele.
pocras, etc. minutes, and
5 minutes, and strain through aa cIo cloth.
th.
The beverage
The beverage can can be flavoured wîth
be flavoured with any any stone fruit,
stone fruit, Oatmeal water. water. EAU EAU DE cRUAU -- Using
DE GRUAU Using oatmeal, proceed proceed
oranges, vanilla, vanilla, wormwood,
wormwood, violets, etc. etc. as described in
as in the recipe for
the recipe for Barley
Barley water.water.
Angelica hippocras.
AngeLîca hippocras. HYPOCRAS
HYPocRAs À A L'ANGELlQUE
r'^e.NcftIQLJE -- Leave Orangette
Orange rte or or Frénette
Fr6nette cordial.
cordial. BOlSSON
BoIssoN ORANGETTEoRANGETTE ou ou
88 g. (t(* oz.)oz.) fresh fresh angelica
angelica and pinch of
and aa pinch of ground nutmegnutmeg to to rnfNsrrE - Take
FRÉNEITE - Take 50 50 g.g. (2 oz.) ash
Q oz.) ash treetree leaves, peel of of JO 10
infuse in in 1I litre (lf pints, generous
litre (1:1- generous quart) cold wine (red or
wine (red or oranges, 3 kg. (6-i
oranges, (G lb.,
lb., 13 cups) granulated sugar, 50 g.
13 cups) (2 oz.)
g. (2 oz.)
white) for
white) for 22 days. days. Add Add sugar
sugar and little brandy
and aa liule brandy to to laste.
taste. citric
ci acid, 25 g.
tric acid, (l oz.)
g. (1 oz.) brewer's yeast, yeast, bumt burnt sugar.
sugar.
Filter.
Pilter. Boil the
Boil the ashash tree leavesleaves withwith the orange peel
the orange for 25
peel for 25 oror 30 30
Juniper hippocras. HYPOCRAS
Juniper HypocRAs AU lu GENŒVRE
csNIivRE -- Leave Leave 25 25 g.
g. minutes in
minutes in 22litres
litres (31(3| pints,
pints, 4t pints) water.
4] pints) water. StrainStrain through
through aa
(\(l oz.)
oz.) crushed jun juniper berries to
iper berries to infuse
infuse in in 1I litre (lfi pints,
litre (1 pints, cloth.
clotho
generous quart)
generous quart) cold wine, mixed
cold wine. mixed withwith 50 g. (2
50 g. Q oz.) alcohol,
oz.) alcohol, Dissolve 33 kg.
Dissolve ((* lb.,
kg. (61- lb., 13 granulated sugar
cups) granulated
13 cups) sugar in in thethe
for 24
for 24 hours. hours. Add Add aa liulelittle vanilla
vanilla and and 75 75 g.g. (3 (3 OZ.,
oz., 66 above liquid. Add
above Add 50 50 g.g. (2 citric acid.
oz.) citric
Q oz.) acid. Put into aa barrel
Put into barrel
tablespoons) fine fine sugar,
sugar, and filter.
and filter. of about
of about 50 50litres
litres (II (11 gallons, 14 gallons) eapacity.
14 gallons) capacity.
.. " ... t,,,,..."V hippocras. HYPOCRAS
Raspberry
w HYPocRAs À re FRAMBOISE
A LA rnnunolsE -- Strain Strain Dilute 25
Dilute 25 g. (1 0 oz.) yeast inin cold water, m1x
cold waler, mix with
with 22 table-
table-
500 g. (18 oz., 3f cups) gathered raspberries
freshly gathered
cups) freshly raspberries over over aa spoons (3
spoons (3 tablespoons) buml burnt sugar and and add add to to the
the barrel.
barrel.
bowl, pour
bowl, pour in in 1I litre (11(If, pints,
pints, geoerous
generous quart)quart) red red wine,
wine, Fill with
Fill with waler,
water, leave to ferment for 88 days,
to ferment bottle and
days, bottle cork.
and cork.
sweeten
sweeten with with sugar,
sugar, add add 50 (2 oz.)
g. (2
50 g. oz.) wine alcohol, and
wine alcohol, filter.
and filter. Beverage made
Beverage made out out of of pea-pods.
pea-pods. BOISSON BoIssoN DE DE COSSES
cossEs DE DE
Aux ÉPlCES Infuse 22 pots-vERTs - Put pods of green peas
of green into aa stockpot
stockpot and and add add
Hippocras with
Hippocras with spices. HypocRAs AUX
spices. HYPOCRAS fPIcEs -- Infuse POIS-VERTS - Put pods peas into
teaspl:>ollS
teaspoons cinnamon, cinnamon, 15 15 g. (* oz.,
g. 0: o2.,2 tablespoons) nutmeg, aa
2 lablespoons) plenty of
plenty of water.
water. Boil Boil forfor 33 hours,
hours, and and leaveleave to to get
get cold.
cold.
pinch of of macemace and and 33 c10ves (all ground
cloves (ail ground inta into powder)
powder) in in 50 g.g. Add aa handful
Add handful of sage to l0litres
to 10 litres (9 quarts, li
(9 quarts, ll quarts) liquid.
quarts) liquid.
(2 oz.) alcohol. Leave
oz.) alcohol. Leave for for 22 days.
days. Add Add 1I litre (l| piots,
litre (Ii pints, kave to
Leave ferment in aa barrel.
to rerment barrel. DrawDraw off off and
and boUle.
bottle.
generous quart)
generous quart) white white or or red wine, 33 drops
red wine, drops amber
amber essence
essence Golden rbubarb
Golden rhubarb cordial.
cordial. EAU DoRfiE DE
EAU DORÉE RHUBARBE -- Tonie
DE RHUBARBE Tonic

t23
123
BEZIERS
BÉZIERS

and ap6ritif obtained

and apéritif obtained by by macerating
macerating aa piece piece of rhubarb in
of rhubarb in aa liquid drawn
liquid This isis aa biller,
off. This
drawn off. bitter, aromatic,
aromatic, stimulating
stimulating
jug ofwater.
of water. beverage.
Rice warer.
water. EAUEAU DE nz -- Proceed
DE RIZ Proceed as described in
as descnbed in the
the recipe
recipe Raisin wLne. vn.t DE
wine. VIN DE RAISINS
RArsrNs SECS Fut 1I litre
sEcs - Put- (lf
litre (li pints,
for Barley water.
water. generous quart) raisins,
raisins, 300 (Il
oz.,l]
300 g.g. (II oz., 1, cups)
cups) )';,
granulated
GlU'" """_U
Three floweis cordial.
Three cordial. BOISSON
BorssoN DES DEs TROIS FLBuRs -- Pu
rRors FLEURS Putt 5050 g. dl. (3 tablespoons,
sugar and + dl. scant t* cup)
tablespoons, seant cup) wine vinegar
vinegar
(2(2oz.) hop flowers,
oz.) hop flowers, 50 50 g. (2 oz.) violetviolet flowers
flowers and and 35 35 g. (lf into a small barrel. Add
Add water.
water. Leave
Leave to
to macerate
macerate for
for 88 days,
days,
oz.) eider
oz.) elder blossom
blossom into into 20litres (4| gallons, 5| gallons) boiting then
then bottle. The wine
bottle. The wine wiUwill he
be ready for use
ready for use 88 days
days after
after
water. Boil
water. for 55 mihutes
Boil for minutes and and strain through a fine cloth. bouling in the
bottling in the wintcr,
winter, and after 44 days
and after days in
in the
the summer.
summer.
into aa barrel
Pour ioto
Pour barrel with 4î
with 4| kg. (10 lb., 20 cups) brown
BEZIERS -- Town
BÉZIERS Town of of the H€rault département
the Hérault ddpartement whichwhich pro-
pro-
sugar. Add
sugar. Add ~+ litre (scant piot.
litre (seant pint, 2l cups) vinegar and 12 g.
(t(* oz.)
oz.) brewer's
brewer's yeast, yeast, broken
broken up up into pieces.
pieces. Mix Mix weil. Fill
well. Fil! duces aa great
duces great deal
deal of rd table
of red table wines.
wines. The
The culinary
culinary specialities
specialities
the barrel
the barrel with
$"ith 80 litres (17| gallons,
S0litres gallons, 22 22 gallons) water, stir of the
of the regron areare the
the same
same asas those found in
those found all towns
in aU towns of of
vigorously, bung bung the the barrel, and and leave
leave toto ferment. LangllJedloc.
Languedoc. TheyThey include eseargots àit la
include escargots h lodévoÎse;
loddvoise; cabassols;
cabassols;
vigorously,
Wipflavorned water. water. EAU vrNEUsE
EAU VINEUSE
manouls; B6ziers pdtis called
small Béziers
manouls; small called pâtés
pdtCs des
des Pézenas;
PCzenas;
Wine-D8I1/oured - Beverage for for
convalescents, made
convalescents, made by by addiog
adding aa small quantity of
small quantiry of Ho,rdl~aUIJ(
Bordeaux
flaunes
flaunes or flmtzottnes de
ar flauzonnes de Lodive; fouaces
fouaces aux aux fritlons;
frittons; andand
oreilletes.
oreilletes.
or Burgundy
or Burgundy wine wine to to water
water or or soda water. A
soda water. A liule little sugar
sugar and and
lemon essence
lemon essenc€ is ss6stimes added.
is sometimes added. BEZIEU SOEP
BEZIEU SOEP or or REDCURRANT
REDCURRANT SOUP SOLTP @elgian
Blackcurant wine.
Blackcurrant wine. VIN vnr DE cAssxs -- Press
DE CASSIS ripe blackcurrants
Press ripe blackcurrants cookery). SOUPE
cookery). cRosExr.rrs -- Cook
Aur( GROSEU.LES
soupE AUX Cook vermicelli
vermicelli in water;
water;
in aa tub,
in tub, and
and leave
leave for for 24 hours.
24 hours. when
when ready, add
add salt
salt and potato flour
and patata flour diluted
diluted in
in aa liule
little cold
cold
Rub through aa sieve
Rub sieve or or aa coarse
coarse cloth cloth andand separate separate the the water. redcurrant juice and
water. Add redcurrantjuiœ and sugar.
sugar.
juice. Cover
juîce. Cover the remainingremaining marc marc with with water,
water, equalling equalling in in
volume the amount
BHRROTIE (À
BIARROTTE LA)-- Gamish
G LA) Garni$ for
for small cuts ofmeat
of meat com-
com-
volume amount of ofjuice extracted, and
juice extracted, and leave
leave ta to macerate of âpes
posed of galettes; the
posed and ga/etles;
cCpes and latter, prepared
the latter, prepared as
as for
for
for 12
for hours. Press
12 hours. through the
Press through the sieve
sieve agaagain.
in. Mix Mix the the twotwo
juices, and Duchesse potatoes (see
Duchesse pOlaLOes POTATOES),
(see POT A TOES), form
form the
the base.
base.
juices, and addadd 50 50 g. g. Q oz.,oz., t* cup)
cup) sugar
sugar per per litre litre (seant
(scant
quart, generous quart)
quart, quart) liquid. BICARBONATE OF
BICARBONATE OF SODA.
SODA. BICARBONATE
BTcARBoNATE DE souos - In
oe SOUDE In -
Pour the
Pour the liqliquid
uid intointo aa barrel
barrel or or sorne
some otherother receptac1e receptacle this is
medicine, tbis is used
used as
as ao
an alkali and
and antacid. In
In cooking,
and leave
and leave to to fennent.
ferment. When When fermentation
fermentation begins to to be addd to
it is added to sorten used for certain vegetables. It
soften the water used
established, bung the barrel,
established, barrel, leaving an an opening the sile size ofof is sometimes
is sometimes added
added to to the
the water for the
water for the carrots
carrots prepared
prepared
aa vent-peg. After aa few
vent-peg. ACter few days, removeremove bung, bung to allow carbon la Vichy.
àd la
dioxide to escape. Repeat
dioxide Repeat this operation from from time time ta to time BICHIQLJDS -- Very
BICHIQUES Very small fish. (Sec
small fish. (See CURRY, Bichique
Bichique
until there is no longer any risk of too great an expansion of
untll curry.)
gas, then bung the barrel. Draw off
gas, offat at the end of six months.
Cherry wine. VJ1l,1 vnr DE cERrsEr -
OF. CERISES - Proceed as deseribed described in the BIGARADE SAUCE -- See SAUCE.
BIGARADE SAUCE.
recipe for BJackcurrant
recipe Blackcarrant wine. BIGARREAU -
BIGARREAU of hard-fleshed
Variety of
- Variety cherry, rcd
hard-fleshed cherry, red and
Fig wme or
Iig wine ffguette. vrN
Of figuerte. VIN DE FIGUES ("""'-llt' ..... ...,"\ - Put I kg.
Frcr.iEs (rrcunrrn) white. (See CHERRY.)
(2* lb.)
(2-!- lb.) dried figs and and l0 juniper berries into a small barrel.
10 juniper
Add l0
Add litres (9
10 litres (9 quarts, IIl quarts) I quarts) waterwater and and leave leave to BIGNON (Louis) -- Nineteenth
Nineteenth century restaurateur. After
ACter
macerate for 6 to 8 days. Strain the
macerate tbe liquid, bottle,
boule, and leave a
a good training and experienoe in well-known Paris
aod much experience
for
for 4 4 or 5 days before using. using. he took
restaurants, he took over'the management of Café
over the managernent Riche,
CafC Riche,
which saon sole h
soon became famous; sole à la Riche and woodcock it à
wine. vN
Ginger wine. VIN DE crNcEnBRE - Put 9
DE! G1NGEMBRE - 9 kg. kg. (20 (20 lb.,
lb .. 40 Riche were among
among many noted specialities. The restaurant
la Riclrc
cups) sugar into
eups) into 40 litres (8f
40 litres gallons, 1l
(8t gallons, Il gallons)
gallons) boiling boiJing was frequented by most of the men of letters
leHcrs of the period.
water. When the sugar sugar dissolves,
dissolves, add 300 300 g. (ll (Il oz.,2f oz., 2i cups)cups) Bignon was a a remarkably intelligent man
man who
who took
took an
pounded gtnger mots. Boil for a quarter of an
ginger roots. an hour, and înterest in
inteiest in viniculture
viniculture and agriculture. He
and agriculture. He received
received the
remove from from heat.
heat. awards at world exhibitions
highest awards exhibitions of
of agricultural produce,
When the liquid is nearly nearly cold, add 250 g. (9 oz.) brewer's and became the first French restaurateur
restaurateur to be awarded the
yeast. Leave to ferment in a barrel. Draw
yeast. Leave Oraw offafter
off after fennenta- fermenta- Legion
Legion ofof Honour, 1867.
Honour, in 1867.
tion, and when the wine is is quite clear,
c1ear, decant into bottles. boUles.
Juniper wine. vnl VJ1I,1 or GENIÈVRE -- Mix 5 kg. (II lb.) honey
DE cnxGvns (ll BIGOS
BIGOS @olish
(Polisb cookery) -- Wash a 4 kg. (9 lb.) sauerkraut
sauerkraul in
(or
(or brown sugar) with
brown sugar) with 22 kg. kg. ((~l lb.) brewer's yeast
lb.) brewer's yeast and and 50 kg. kg. several before boiling it in water.
several waters before water. Drain,
Drain, and add 22
(l(110
l0 lb.) crushed juniper berries.
lb.) crushed bernes. pounded
pounded onions
on ions andand 4 peeled and and diced
diced cookirtg apples.
apples.
Add
Add 100 litreslitres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) hot water water and and a Mix Put in
weIL Fut
Mix well. in aa casserole in layers
layers with
with cooked meatsmeats
little
liulc crushed coriander. Pour Pour this mixture into inta aa cask eask andand such as venison, chicken, mutton,
venison, chicken, mutton, duck, ham, harn, sausages or
stir vigorously for
stir vigorously for 5 minutes. Cover with boards,
5 minutes. boards, sealing sealing pÎckled pork. Add
pickled Add butter
butter to
to each
each layer,
layer, pour in a little
pour in liule stock,
the
the cask hermetically ifif possible.
eask hermetically possible. and cook in
and oven for
in aa slow oven for 22 hours.
hours.
Leave to
Leave ferment in a place with
ta ferment with a temperature of of 25"C.
25°C. About
About 2525 minutes
minutes before
before servin!,
serving, add
add a butter-and-flour
butter-and-flour
(77'F.). When Wb en fermentation is complete ind the
is complete the winewine has has roux made with
roux (q.v.'1 made with a liUle of the
a little liquor in which
the liquor which the
the
become clear, draw draw off off into
mto aa kegkeg andand put
put in in aa place place with with aa sauerkraut was cooked,
SGLrerACrœw was cooked, and
and serve
serve in
in this
this sauce.
sauce.
temperature not
temperature not exceeding
exceeding 15"C. 15~C. (59'F.).
(59°P.). At At the the endend of of one
one
month, BIJAI\E
BIJANE -- Cold soup popular
Cold soup popular in
in the
the Anjou
Anjou reglon
region made
made by
by
mon th, draw draw off again and
off again keep in
and keep cellar in aa full,
in aa cellar full, well-
well-
crumbling bread into
crumbling bread into sweetend
sweetened red
red wine.
wine.
bunged
bunged keg. !ceg. After
After one one year, decal1t into
year, decant into bottles.
boUles.
Juiper*ine
WIDe (genewette). vrN GENIÈVRE (crr*rvnrrre)
DE cENdvRE
VIN DE - BILBERRY.
Bll,BERRY. MvRTTLLE -
MYRTILLE - Small plant common in
Small plant in upland
upland
Put 50 litres (l(1 I gallons,
Put gallons, 14 gallons) juniper
14 gallons) bernes into
juniper berries mto 100 woods (naturalised
woods (naturalised in U.S.A.). The tart
in U.S.A.). taft purple
purple berries
berries can
can
litres (22 gallons,
litres (22 gallons, 28 28 gallons)
gallons) water, add 22 handfuls
water, add handfuls of worm-
ofworm- be stewed,
be stewed, and
and they
tbey are
are also
also used jam, syrups
used ininjam, syrups and
and liqueurs.
liqueurs.
wood
wood and leave to
and leave ferment in
to ferment place for
cool plaoe
in aa cool one month.
for one month.
Filter
Pilter and
and bottle.
botlle.
BILE
Bll.E -_. Thick, bitter fluid
Thiek, greenish-yellow, bitter fluid secretd
secreted by
by
the livcr. ItTt isis called 'gall' in cookery
the liver. cookery and in industry.
and in industry.
The supply of
The supply of this beverage may
this beverage may behe prolonged
prolonged by by leaving
leaving
the berries in
the berries in the
the receptacle and adding
receptacle and 10 replae
wal.er to
adding water replace the
the BIRD. OISEAU -- Many
BIRD. oBBAU Many wild
wild and
and domestic
domestic birds
birds are
are edible.
edible.

124
124
 BISCUIT
BISCUIT

(Nrcolas)
Biscuits (Nico/as)
Biscuits

ln classic
In French cookery
classic French term covers
the tenn
cookery the various small
covers various Apricot biscuits
Apricot biscuits (petits (petits fours). Blsculrs ÀA L'ABRICOT
fours). BISCUITS t-'lBnteor --
Cream 500 500 g. (18 oz.,
g. (18 2| cups) fine
oz., 2tcups) fine sugar
sugar and and 16 yolks in
egg yolks
16 egg in aa
of the
birds of
birds the sparrow
sparrow type, are generally roasted
which are
type, which roasted or Cream
cooked on skewers like larks. bowl. Add
bowl. Add 625 6ZS g. g. (1(l lb.
lb. 66 oz.,
oz., 51 5l cups)
cups) sieved
sieved Bour. Whisk
flour. Whisk
the egg
the whites into
egg whites into aa stiff froth, and
stiff froth, fold carefully
and fold carefully into into thethe
BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOa
BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOIL (V.S. (U.S. Lotus). LoTIER -
Lotus). LOTIER paste.
Leguminous plant
Leguminous plant which grows abundantly
which grows abundantly in in meadows, paste. . . .
Half-fill greased
Half-fill greased and flour-sprinkled bakmg
and Bour-sprinkled baking tms with the
tins wlth. the
highways, and
along the highways, in fields of cereal
and in The leaves,
crops. The
cereal crops. leaves, mixture, piped
biscuit mixture, through aa forcing-bag.
piped through forcing-bag. Add little
Add aa httle
when
biscuit
stems
stems and flowers have
and flowers have aa pleasant fragrance, especially
pleasant fragrance, especially when apricot jam,jam, and and covercover with with the remaining mixture,
the remaining sifting
mixture, sifting
apricot
dried
dried, and
and can
can be
be used
used to flavour marinades.
to Bavour marinades. fine sugar
sugar over over the top. Bake
the top. Bake in in aa moderate
moderate oven oven for for 2020
plant are fine
In 'sorne
In districts the
some districts the leaves
leaves and flowers of
and Bowers of this
this plant are minutes. When When cool, cool, store
store in airtight tins.
in airtight tins.
minutes.
used
used to impart the
to irnpart flavour of
the Bavour of wild rabbit to
wild rabbit to hutch rabbits
hutch rabbits Chocolate soufflé soufl6 biscuits (cookies). BISCUITS
biscuits (cookies). soumlfs
BIscuITs SOUFFLÉS
bird's- Chocolate
when
when cooked.
cooked. The rabbit isis stuffed
The rabbit stuffed with handful of
with aa handful of bird's- cHocor,Ar -- Whisk
AU CHOCOLAT Whisk 500 500 g. (18 oz.,
g. (18 oz., 2*2| cups) fine sugar
cups) fine sugar andand
AU
foot trefoil
foot trefoil after
after being
being drawn.
drawn. l0 egg
10 whites over
egg whites over low low heat. When the
heat. When the mixture firm, add
mixture isis finn, add
BISCOTTE -- See
BISCOTTE RUSK.
See RUSK. g- (II
300 g.
300 oz,l1
(lL oz., squares) softened
II squares) chocolate which
softened chocolate which has been
has been
blended with
blended with 22 egg whites.
egg whites.
BISCUIT -- Tenn
BISCUIT Tenn applied
applied to many kinds
to many of biscuit,
kinds of and, in
biscuit, and, in forcing-bag onto
through aa forcing-bag
Pipe through onto aa buttered baking s?eet
buttered ba.king sheet
to
cut to
Pipe
French,
French, to to an
an iced
iced sweet,
sweet, mademade of of ice
ice cream mixture, cut
cream mixture, which hashas been dusted with
been dusted flour, or
with flour, or spoon
spoon the mixture Into
the mIxture into
which
look like
look like biscuits
biscuits (See (See ICEICE CREACREAMS MS AND AND ICES, Neapoli-
ICES, Neapoli- paper cases.
small paper cases. Bake Bake inin aa moderate
moderate oven (180'C.,
oven (180°C.,
smaIJ
tan
tan ice
ice cream).
cream\. 350oF., Gas Gas MarkMark 4). 4).
used toto be made
be made
350°F.,
Army
Army biscuits. Blsculrs DE
biscuits. BISCUITS - These used
GUERRE-These
DE GUERRE
biscrrits (cookies).
Genoo biscuits GENEvoIs -- Mix
BIscuIN GENEVOIS
(cookies). BISCUITS Mix together
together
(6 parts flour to
parts flour to 1I part
part water),
water), Genoa
of fairly substantial
of aa fairly substantial paste paste (6
125 oz., t* cup)
(4 OZ.,
125g.g. (4 fine sugar,
cr.p) fine sugar, 33 egg yolks, 1I w~ole
egg yolks, whole.egg,
egg,
baked
baked for for 20
20 toto 2525 minutes,
minutes, and cooled off
and cooled offuntil completely
until completely little grated
grated lemonlemon rind rind and pinch of
and aa pinch of salt. with aa
Stir wlth
salt. Stlr
aa little
dry. Sometimes
dry. Sometimes aa little little leleaven
aven waswas added
added to to the and
paste, an?
the paste, wooden spoon for minutes. Add
for 22minutes. Add 50 50 g.g. (2 oz., I cup)
(2oz.,} melted
cup) melted
as Itit
taste, as
wood en spoon
invariably
invariably sorne
someseasoning
seasoning to to give
grve the dough sorne
the dough some taste, 35 g.g. (1(l* o2.,6 ground almonds,
almonds, 125 125g.g.
to chew,
difficult to chew, and were
and were
butter, 35
butter, i OZ., tablespoons) ground
6 tablespoons)
had
had nono salt
salt in it. The
in it. The biscuits
biscuits were
were difficult oz.,l1 cup)
(4(4OZ., cup) sieved
sieved Bour,flour,and mix. Lastly
and mix. Lastly foldfold inin33egg whites
eggwhites
not
not much
much goodgood in in soups,
soups,as as they
they did not absorb
did not absorb enough liquid
enough liquid whisked to toaastiff froth.
stifffroth.
whisked
when
when soaked.
soaked. Pour the mixture into
the mixture into finger-shaped
finger-shaped rnoulds which have
moulds whichhave
of the Army food food Pour
After 1894,
After 1894, as as aa result
result of of the work of
the work the Army buttered and
been buttered and dusted
dustedwith withaamixture
mixture of offine sugarand
fine sugar and
been
chemist, Balland, biscuit
chemist, BaBand, biscuit was was replaced
replaced by by army
army bread,
bread, (cornstarch). Bake
cornflour (comstarch).
comflour Bake ininaa very veryslow slowoven.
oven. Dry Dry the the
which
which was wasporous
porous and absorbant, though
and absorbant, stillnot
thougb still popular
not popular biscuits on onaasievesieveand store ininairtight
andstore airtight tins.tins.
biscuits
wi th soldiers.
with soldiers. Ginger biscuits
Ginger (cookies). BISCUITS
biscuits(cookies). BIscuITs AU GINGEMBRE - - Mix
AUGINGEMBRE Mix
SWEET BISCUITS
SWEET (U.S. cookies).
BISCUITS (U.S. Blsculrs DE
cookies). BISCUITS DE 125125g.g. (4(4OZ.,oz., tI cup) fine sugar, 2 teaspoons
fine sugar,2 teaspoonsgroun~ ground
pArnsnnrr- ginger and
ginger and44egg eggyolks, "rrp)stirring
yolks, with liawooden
stirring with wooden spoon spoonuntiiuntil
PÂTISSERIE -

t25
125
 BISHOP
BISHOP

quite smooth. Add 50 g. e oz., { cup) rice flour and 25 s..

(l o2.,3
quite smooth. (2 OZ., t cup) rice flour and 25 g.
Add 50 g.potato
tablespoons)
(1 OZ., 3 tablespoons) potato flour and
flour airdstir
stirweil. Foldinin?
well.Fold 4
egg whites whisked to a stifffroth.
eggPipe
whites whisked to a stiff froth.
the mixture onto greased paper through a forcing_
Pipe the mixture onto greased paper through a forcing-
bag, shaping it into small sticks. Splintcte with sugar, an?
bag, shaping it into small sticks. Sprinkle with sugar, and
n]ace baking sheet. Bake in the oven at lg0"C.I35b"F.,
9nal baking sheet.
place on Bake in the oyen at 180°C. (350°F.,
Gas Mark 4) for 8 to l0 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in
Gas Mark 4) for 8 to 10 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in
an airtight tin.
an airtight tin.
Lemon biscuits (cookies). Brscr.rrrs AU crrRoN
LemoD biscuits (cookies). BISCU1TS AU CITRON - - Cream Cream
50
50 g. (2 oz.,
OZ.,* cup) fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until the
+cup)
mixture is firm. Add grated rind of I lemon, 25 g. (l the
g. (2 fine
mixture is firm. Add grated rind
sugar with 2 egg yolks until
of 1 lemon, 25 g. (1 OZ., oz.,
cup) sifted flour, lS oz., 4 teaspoons) potatJ flour, i
t* cup) sifted flour, 15 g.e.(t GOZ., 4 teaspoons) potato flour, 1
teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a
teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a
stiff froth.
stiffpiry
froth.
through a forcing-bag into
_ Pipe through a forcing-bag into biscuits biscuits onon wafer
wafer paper.
paper.
fnrinkle withwith powdered sugar, and bake at 160.C. lZiS;f .,
Sprinkle powdered sugar, and bake
Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in precedingat 160°C. (325°F.,
Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding
recrpes.
recipes.
Italian biscuits. Brscurrs A r'nq.rrrNr.tr - Cream 500 g.
ltalian
(18 biscuits. BISCUITS À L'IT ALlENNE - Cream 500 g.
oz., 2f cups) fine sugar with l0 egg yolks until smoott.
O? OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar with 10 egg yolks until smooth.
Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the
Whisk
mixture.theAdg egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the
g.-(4 o2.,3 cup) potato flour and 100 g. Bison
Bison
mixture.
(4 oz.,l cup)Add 100 190 g. (4 OZ., ! cup) potato flour and 100 g.
sifted flour. Mix well.
(4 OZ., 1 cup) sifted flour. Mix weil. The American isis different
The American different from
from the
the European
European bison,
bison,
Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, which isis found
found in
in sorne parts of
Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, which some parts of Russia.
Russia.
sprinkle the entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tini
sprinkle entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tins All methods
Ali methods of of preparation
preparation indicated for beef
indicated for beef are
are
with the the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and applicable toto bison, but only
bison, but only after
after marinating
marinating the
with the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and applicable the meat for
meat for
bake in a hot oven. hours.
several hours.
bakeTurnin a hot oyen. several
out the biscuits, ice with Curagao-flavoured icing,
andTurn out the biscuits, ice withCuràçao-flavoured icing, BISQUE -- Name Name of preparation in
of aa preparation in the form of aa purée,
the form pur6e,
decorate the tops with candied orange peel. BISQUE
and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. particularly aa purée
more particularly pur6e ofof crayfish,
crayfish, oror other
Small unleavened biscuits. pETrTs pArNS AzyME - Mix more other shellfish,
shellfish,
SmaU unJeavened biscuits. PETITS PAINS AZYME - Mix served as thick soup.
as aa thick soup.
500 g.
500
oz., 4| cups) sieved flour
(18 OZ., 4!- cups) sieved flour and
g. _(18 500 g. (18 o2.,2f,
and 500 g. (18 OZ., 2,}
served
cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the Bisque soups
Bisque soups in in the eighteenth century
the eighteenth century were
were made
made of
cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the poultry and and game without any
game without any shellfish, and were
shellfish, and
ggltre, put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and g eggs. poultry were not
centre,
My to put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and 8 eggs. pur6es,
a firm dough, adding a little purées, butbut aa presentation
presentation of of boiled poultry
poultry or game, some-
Mix to a firm dough, adding a httle water water ofof necessary.
necessary. times with aa garnish
Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll out and cul into times served
served with garnish ofof cocks' combs and kidneys.
Leave the
circles with a pastry-cutter. place on a out
dough in a cool place. Roll and cut into
lightly buttered In 1758, in
In 1758, in the
the last
last edition of Dons de
edition of de Comus, there is a
circles with a pastry-cutter. Place on a lightly buttered
sheet, prick the biscuits recipe for
fcipe for a a quail soup with
quail soup crayfish, which really
with crayfish, really was
was a
baking sheet, prick the biscuits all ail over,
over, and bake in
and bake in a
a slow
slow
3:5il-
oyen.
bisque soup,
li.sque made of
soup, made of quails, topped with
quails, topped with crayfish
crayfish pur6e.
purée.
Bisque, therefore, probably
Bisque, therefore, meant a
probably meant a soup, with sorne kind
with some
BISHOP (Mulled wine). BrscHoF - Hot beverage popular in of
BISHOP (MuHed wine). BISCHOF - Hot beverage popular in
northern European countries.
of meat
meat andand breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs.
northern European countries. What
What could have given
could have given the
the crayfish pur6e name of
purée the name
The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this bisque
The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this
connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon bisque soup
soup waswas the addition of
the .addition crayfish meat to
of crayfish to various
various
connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon
peel, soups, which
soups, which werewere then
th en called
called bisques.
bisques.
anise. It
cinnamon, cloves, and
sometimes star
peel, cinnamon, cloyes, and sometimes star anise. It isis Bisques, whether
Bisques, whether mademade of shellfish, poultry
of shellfish, poultry or
or game,
game, are
are
served mostly at evening parties. considered
served mostly at evening parties.
19{ lishop. BrscHoF cr.lc6 - Pour a bottle of Champagne considered high style preparations,
high style preparations, and and have
have always
always been
been
Iced bisbop. ,BISCHOF GLACÉ - Pour a bottle of Champagne excessively
excessively spiced.
spiced.
and 5 dl. (scant pint,2f, cups) lime-blossom tea into abowl.
and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2t cups) lime-blossom tea into a bowl, For
For Crab
Crab bisque,
bisque, Crayfish bisque, Lobster
Crayfish bisque, Lobster bisque
bisque and
add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a Spiny
add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a
sufficient quantity of heavy (32') sugar syrup to bring the
Spiny lobster
lobster bisque, see SOUp.
bisque, see SOUP.
sufficient quantity of heavy (32°) sugar syrup to bring the
mixture to a light syrup consistency (18.). Leave in a cool BISTORT. BISTORTE -- A
BISTORT. BrsroRTE farinaceous plant,
A farinaceous plant, the roots of
the roots of
mixture to a light syrup consistency (18°). Leave in a cool
place for I hour. Strain through a fine strainer. which
which are twisted in
are twisted in an S-shape, baked
an S-shape, baked onon hot
hot coals
coals and
and
place for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer.
Ice_as for a granitd. Add 4 small glasses fine Champagne
-brandy eaten by
eaten by the Samoyeds instead
the Samoyeds instead ofof bread.
bread.
for a granité. Add 4 sm ail glasses fine Champagne
Ice asand The
serve in punch glasses. The tender
tender leaves
leaves of this plant,
ofthis found in
plant, found in some high Alpine
sorne high Alpine
brandy and serve in punch glasses. regions,
Rhine wine bishop. BrscHoF vrN DU RHrN Melt 250 g. regions, are eaten like
are eaten like spinach.
spinach.
,^ Rhine wine bis hop. BISCHOF AU AU VIN DU RHIN -- Melt 250 g.
(9 oz., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of BITOK
(9 OZ., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of (Russian cookery).
BITOK @ussian BITOKE -- Bitok
cookery). BrroKE Bitok can
can be made of
be made of
I orange and I lemon, 2 cloves and a small stick of cinnamon
1 orange and 1 lem on, 2 cloyes and a small stick of cinnamon
dissolved in 3 dl. (| pint, l{ cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes.
any kind
any kind of
ofmeat; beef, mutton,
meat; beef, mutton, pork,
pork, veal, chicken, rabbit,
veal, chicken, rabbit,
dissolved in 3 dl. (t pint, It cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. etc.
etc.
Add I bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam Mince
Add 1 bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam
is formed on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve Mince the meat, add
the meat, add bread soaked in
bread soaked in milk
milk and
and finelv
finely
chopped on ion (either
chopped onion raw or
(either raw orlightly
lightly fried), and put
season, and
inis afonned
jug or on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve
in a large silver punch fried), season, put
in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl.
bowl. through aa mincer
through again to
mincer again ensure perfect
to ensure perfect smoothness.
smoothness.
Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other
Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other
wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or
Shapeinto
Shape cakesabout
intocakes cm.(lt
about44 clrn. (ltinches)
inches)inindiameter,
diameter,dredge
dredge
wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or ininflour,
flour,fry
fryininbutter, coyerwith
butter,cover withsour
sourcream,
cream,and simmerfor
andsimmer for
Marsala is sometimes added. 55to 7 minutes.
Marsala is sometimes added. to 7 minutes.
BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It BITTER.
BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It AMER-- Having
BITTER.AMER Havingan
an unpleasant,
unpleasant, wormwood
wormwood taste.
tas te.
differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in Among
differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in
which bitterplants
thebitter
Amongthe plantswhich
whichare usedfor
areused formaking
makinginfusions
infusions
the line of the back falls
which the line of the back falls away away from
from thethe rounded
rounded or
or decoctions
decoctions are:
are: wormwood,
wormwood, camomile,
camomile, endive,
endive,fumitory,
fumitory,
humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head gentian,
1 humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head gentian,germander,
germander,hops,
hops,Iichen, wildpansy,
lichen,wild lessercentaury,
pansy,lesser centaury,
and forequarters, and by its beard.
1 and forequarters, and by its beard.
quassin amara(bitter
quassiaamara (bitterash),
ash),cinchona,
cinchona,rhubarb.
rhubarb.
126
126
 BLANQUET
BLANQUET

According to
According infusions or
Foussagrives, infusions
to Foussagrives, or liqueurs
liqueurs made
made BLANCHJNG. srlNcHn
BLANCHING. Operation consisting of boiling
BLANCHffi-- Operation consisting of boiling
them, or,
of bitterplants may
ofbitter divided into
be divided
may be into five classes (i)
!ive classes (i)purgative
mU'oni""'" ingredientsinin salted
variousingredients
various eithertotoharden
walereither
saltedwater barden them, or,
green vegetables, to
them'
billers, based on
bitters, rhubarb, aloes,
on rhubarb, etc.;; (ii)
aloes, etc. nauseous bitters,
(ij) nauseous as inin the
as case of
the case ofsomesorne green ta cook
cook them.
soaked in
based on
based camomÎle; (iii)
on camomile; astringent bitters,
(iii) astringent wbich, with
bitlers, which, witb the
the Sorne ingredients, previously soaked
Some in cold water, are
cold water, are
as in the
bitter content of
substance content
bitter substance tannin, include
of tannin, include cinchona,
cinchona, blanched in
blanched water (gradually brought
in water brought to the boil),
to the boil), as in Ihe
of calves' heads and trotters, and lambs'
and aotters, calves' and lambs' sweet-
calves'
knapweed, ofchestnut
bark of
KOiiDvveeiO. bark chestnut tree, etc.; (iv)
tree, etc.; stimulaling bitters
(iv) stimulating bitters case
case of calves' sweet-
and to harden the
skin.
(ap€ritifs)
. based on
based wormwood, peel
on wormwood, peel ofof bitter
bitter oranges,
oranges, breads, etc.,
breads, both to
etc., both to cleanse them and
cleanse them to harden the skjn.
Bacon (pork) fa!
Bacon (pork) generally cut in large dice, is blanched to
gentian,
gentJan, germander,
gennander, hops, etc.;; (v)
hops, etc. convulsing or
(v) convulsing toxic bitters
or toxic bilrers fal.., cut in large dice, is blanched to
salt, before fryingit.
green vegetables,
belongin
belong the province
in the province of medicine.
ofmedicine. extract surplus salt,
extract surplus il. Certain
Certain green vegetables,
to reduce
such as
such as green
green cabbages, on ions, etc.,
cabbages, onions, are blanched
etc., are blanched to reduce
BITTER ASH.
BITTER ASH, nors-AMER amara (q.v.),
Quassia arnara
BOIS-AMER -- Quassia used in
(q.v.), used in
their pungency. Other
their vegetables and
Othervegetables and fruiq
fruit, such as tomatoes,
such as tomatoes,
the preparation
the of ap6ritifs.
prepara1ion of
easier to
aperitifs. peel.
peaches, etc., hlaoched to
are blanched
eIC., are render them
to render them easier to peel.
BLACKBIRD. MERLE -- Bird
BLACKBIRD. ri,rEnrn Bird of
of the family, with
thrush family,
the thrush with To remove skin, husk, etc.
black plumage
black and yellow
plumage and beak. Its
yellow beak. flesh is
lts flesh aromatic in
is aromatic in BLANCHING (Nuts).
BLANCHING MONDER -- To rem ove skin, husk, etc.
(Nuts). MoNDER
flavour
flavour and slightly bitter,
and slightly bitter, and is most
and is fragrant in
most fragrant in autumn.
autumn.
of walnuts, pistachios
almonds, walnuts,
of almonds, pistachios and
and hazelnuts.
ha:l.elnuts.
skin.
Corsican enjoy a
blackbirds enjoy
Corsican blackbirds a great
great reputation.
reputation. (See
(See
Pour boiling water
Pour boiling water over
over the
the shelled nuts to
shelled nuts soften the
to soften the skin.
THRUSH.)
THRUSH.) BLANCMANGE. BLANc-MANcrn
BLANCMANGE. BLANC-MANGER- 'These delicious
-'These delicÎous sweets,'
swects,'
'are
BLACK CUMIN.
BLACK CUMIN. NIGELLE Plant of
NIGELLE -- Plant of the
the Ranunculus
Ranunculus
said Carême in
said Car€me his Traiti
in his entremets dc
des enftemets
Traité des de douceur,
douceur, 'are
but, to
they
family, the pungent
family, the seeds of
pungent seeds of which as aa spioe in
used as
are used
whÎch are ln
greatly esteemed by
greatly esteemed gastronomes, but"
by gastronomes, he enjoyed,
to be enjoyed. they
must
must be smooth and
extremely smooth
be extremely white. Given
very white.
and very GÎven these
two
these Iwo
India the Mediterranean
and the
India and region. The
Mediterranean region. seeds can
The seeds cao be used
used
qualities (so rarely found
(so rarely found together), tbey will
together), they
qualities be
instead of
instead of pepper.
pepper. will {w1y,s.
always be
jellies.. This is
preferred to to other creams, even
other creams, even to ta transparent jellies.This is
BLACKCURRANT. cAssls
CASSl'\ Fruit of
-- Fruit of the
the blackcurrant
blackcurrant because almond almond is very nourishing and contains
is very
creamy'
bush used to
bush used (see RATAFIA)
make a liqueur (see
to make and preserves.
RATAFIA) and preserves. balsamic properties which are just right for sweetening the
balsamic properties which are just
bittemess of
bitterness of humours.'
humours.'
BLADDER. VESSLE -
vDssIE Membraneous bag
- Membraneous bag in
in animals,
animaIs., used
used - 'Blanch
Hhmc:ma'nee (Car6me's
Blancmange (Carême's recipe). BLANc-MANGER I:ILANC-MANGHR - 'Blanch
butchering in charcaterie
after butchering charcuterie to prepare certain
ta prepare dishes, for
certain dishes, (l almonds and
about
sweet almonds
for
450 g.
450 g. (1 lb., generous 3 3 cups) sweet and about
example Roum
example duckling m
Rouen fucklins en chemise (see DUCK).
chemise (see DUCK). twenty bitter almonds. Leave them to soak in a bowl of cold
twenty bitter Leave to soak in a bowl of cold
singularly white. white. DrainDrain on
a sieve
BLAJSOIS or BIESOIS
BLAISOF BLÉSOIS -- Region of France bordering
of France bordering on on
water, renders them
which renders
water, which them singularly on a sieve
them,
the Loire. and rub
and rub in in a a napkin. Pound in a monar, moistening
Pound in a mortar, moistening them,
prevent
Culinary The specialities
specialities -- The
Culillary speciaIities specialities of of Blaisois
Blaisois areare
little
little byby little,
little,! with I tablespoon water water at at a time, to
a time, to prevent
tuming into
them turning
them oil. When they
ioto oil. they are are pounded
into a fine
pounded into a fine
similar to those of nearby Orléanais.Orl6anais. dilute with 5 glasses filtered water,
rillettes and known for
well known
rillons are weil
and rillons for !heir quality'
their quality. paste, put
paste, put into bowl and
ioto aa bowl and dilute with 5 glasses filtered water,
Blois ril/eues lOOeAi httle at time. Spread aa clean
at aa time. clean napkin over aa dish,
dish,
All the charcuterie
Ali particularly the
excellent, particularly
charcuterie of this region is excellent, the added a !iule napkin over
pour the
pour the blancmange into into it and,
and, withwith 22 people twistin-g the the
andouillettes and
sausages, andouillettes (blood) puddings
black (blood)
and black puddings (see (see
milk. Put in 350 g- (12.o2.,
napkin, press
napkin, press out out all the almond
the almond milk. oz.,
PORK); game pdtis; pâtés; lark pdtis which are made in
are made in the
the same
same
and rub through aa fine
rub through fine Sleve.
pdti,made l]-cupsf granulaled
granulated sugar sugar and sieve.
shape as the famous Pithivi ets pdtis;and
sbape Chartres pêllé,
and Chartres made Sirain-through a napkin once again, add 30
once again, add 30 g. (1 oz. plus
g. (l oz. plus
ofpartridges.
of partridges. 4 grains) clarified isinglass aa liule little warmer
warmer than than tepid. Blend Blend
excellent are
Also excellent pike, carp and other
are the pike, other freshwater fish,
freshwater fish, in aa
with the blancmange. Pour into into aa mouldmould and and place in
prepared en (q.v.), stewed, or
matelote (q.v.),
en matelote or au
au beurre blanc (see
beurre blanc
container with
container with crushed ice. ice.
itlfE). Meat Meat in in Blaisois
Blaisois is of good
is of good quality. following
The """J'VU"'"
quality. The
'To makemake rum rum blancmange,
blancmange, add I
add t glass glass rum to the
Sp<~Cl:'1lJt.les
specialities are are esteemed
esteemed by by gastronomes: lapereau àd la
gastronomes: lapereau 'To
make aa maraschino
rwn to the
mixture described
mixture described above. above. To To make maraschino blanc- blanc-
(young rabbit
silognote (young cooked in
rabbit cooked in the Sologne style); gAteau
the Sologne
SOl,O!!!iIOle
mange, add add 1-I glass maraschino.
glass maraschino.
I-"IIJ~"JJPr~
Pitiiviers (see PITHIVIERS); tarte
(see PITHIVIERS), tarte des demoiselles Tatin(see
des de"rJoi.~eu.!?s
'To serve in small pots, prepare two-thirds of
serve thisthis sweet
sweet in small pOIS, prepare two-thirds of
TART) ; Lamotte-Beuvron
TART); Lamotte-Beuvron (tart) and Orl6ans cotignacs (q'v')'
(tart) and quantity given given in in tbe preceding recipe;
the preceding recipe; you you will, however,
the quantity
tbe will, however,
Wines -- Wines
Wioe5 Wines of of Blaisois
Blaisois and Orl6anais include Saint-
and Orléanais in small
small
little less
need aa lîttle
need less isinglass, as blancmange
as blancmange served served in
Jean-de-Braye, Meung
Jean-de-Braye, Meung andand Beaugency
Beaugency among among the the Orléans
Orl6ans
than when it is to be turned out.
pots has to
pots has lo be more be more delicate tban when it is ta he tumed out.
wines, and
wines, Cdte-des-Grouets of
and .côte-des-Grouets of the Blois wines.
the Blois wines.
flavoured with with lemon, vanillq coffee,
lemon, vanilla, coffee,
Blancmanges cao
Blancmanges can he be flavoured
These often suffer
wines ofien
These wines suffer from lack of
from aa lack of sun and tend
sun and tend toto pistachio nuts, hazelnuts and and strawberries.
strawberries.
chocolate,
chocolate, pistacbio nUlS, hazelnuts
teeth on
one's teeth
set one's
set on edge, but they
edge, but go perfectly
they go with the
perfectly with local
the local
Whipped cream cream can can alsoalso he incorporated-'
be incorporalcd.'
dishes of
dishes of the region.
the region. Blancmange (modern method). BLANc-MANGER - Blanch
HIElUclrnalllge (modem BLANC-MANGER - Blanch
BLANC -- AA French culinary term
French culinary usually used
term usually to describe
used to describe aa and skÎn
and skin 250 g.g. (9(9 OZ., oz., li lit cups) sweet almonds and
sweet almonds and 15 15 g'
g.
BLANC pound in a mortar
and pound
from aa mixture
mixture of of water flour inin
and flour
water and o2.,5
H(L oz., teaspoons) bitter
5 teaspoons) almonds and
bitter almonds in a mortar
courl-bouillon made from
court-bouillon made pint, 2{
andcertain
offal and
white offal certain little water.
with aa little
with Dilute with litre (scant
water. Dilule with ~1 litre (seant pint, 2i cups) cups)
various substances,
which various
which such as
substances, such as white
water. Turn
cold water. Turn tlUs paste on
this paste on to to aacoarse
coarse lioeu cloth over
linen cloth over a
arecooked.
vegetables, are
vegetables, court-bouillon inn which
cooked. AA court-houillon cultivated
which cultivated cold a
(se COURT-
COURT- bowl and squeeze out all the almond
bowl and squeeze out ail the almond milk. Retum the paste milk. Return the paste
mushrooms are
mushrooms cooked isis also
are cooked also called blanc (sec
called blanc
to the mortar and
the mortar pound again,
and pound adding enougb
again, adding enough fresh fresh water
BOUILLON).
BOUILLON). to water
whitestock, on
either on toextract I litre (seant
extract ·;litre (scant pint,pint,2l
2i cups) almond milk.
cups) almond milk.
This also applied tato white
name isisalso
This name based either
stock, based lO
(*
Heat 200 200 g. (7(7 oz.) oz.) lump sugar, 15 g'
15 (! oz.) oZ.)softened
softened
vealor
veal (see STOCKS, White
chicken (see
orchîcken WiteStocks).
Stocks). Heat
chickenor
ofchicken orother
other gelatine and
gelatine almond rnilk, and seir
and the almond stir with aawoodenwooden spoon
Theterm
The blanc Îsisused
termblanc todefine
usedto define breaSI
breast of
volaille, until ilit boils.
boils.Strain
Strainand leaveta
and leave Whenilitisistepîd,
cool. When
tocool. tepid, add I
poultry whicb
poultry which are
aredescribed
described ononmenus
menus asasblancs
blancsdede volaille, until
dl.(6tablespoons,
dl. (6 tablespoons, seant! scant Icup)cup) mm rumor kirsch.
orkirsch.
etc.
etc.
When the
When mixture Îsiscold,
themixture cold, pourpourinto into aabavarois
bavarois mouldmould
BLANC DE
BLANC DE BLANCS giventatoChampagne
Namegiven
BLANCS - - Name Champagne ob- ob- greased with withsweet almond oil,
sweet almond oil,andandplaceplaoe on crushed ice'
On cmshed ice.
from the
tainedfrom
tained Pinot-Chardonnay white
thePinot-Chardonnay distinct
white grapes,asasdistinct The blancmange
blancmange can canbe turned out
beturned outand andserved
servedafterafteran an hour.
hour.
frornthe
from theChampagne obtainedfrorn
Champagne obtained grapes,the
from blackgrapes, the'Blanc
'Blanc
BLANQUET - -French ripens ininJuly
whichripens
pearwhich
Frenchpear Julyor August.
orAugust.
de Noirs'.
deNoirs'. BLANQUE'!'

127
127
 BLANQUETTE
BLANQUETTE

Thereare
There a-Ttwo kinds:the
two.kinds: thelarge andthe
largeand thesmall
smallblanquet.
blanquet.They
They calledlièvre
called liCvre(hare),
(hare),because
becausethe theshape
shapeofofitsitshead
headresembles
resembles
mediocreininflavour,
aremediocre flavour,and
andused mostlyfor
usedmostly forcompotes. that
thatofofthe hare.ItItis isalso
thehare. alsofound
foundininthe
are com-potds. thiJake
lakeofofBourget
Bourgetandandthe
the
BLANQLIETTE - -White
BLANQUETTE Whiteragoût,
ragofrt,based
basedononlamb,lamb,vealvealoror
fishermen
fishermenofofthis thisregion
regioncalicallit itchasseur
chasseur(hunter).
(hunter).InInother
other
chickenmeat,
chicken meat,bound
boundwiwithth egg yolksand
eggyolks andcream,
cream,andandaccom-
accom-
regions knownasasbavecca.
regionsit itisisknown bavecca.
The blenny's fiesh, white and good in flavour, is mainly
paniedbybya agamish
panied garnishofofsmall smallonions
onionscookedcookedinincourt-court_ _ The blenny's flesh, wiite and good in flavour, is mainly
(q.v.),and
bouillon(q.v.),
bouillon mushrooms.Other
andmushrooms. Otheringredients
ingredientsare aresome-
some-
fried,
fried,butbutcan alsobebeused
canalso ingredientforformatelotes
usedasasananingredient matelotis
timesadded
addedtotothe garnish.
thegamish. (q.v.).
(q.v.).
times
Cutthe
Cut themeat intopieces.
meatinto pieces.Coyer
Coverwithwithwhite
whitestock
stockororwater,
water, BLETTE- -Name
BLETTE Namegiven
givenininsorne
someparts
partsofofFrance
Francetotowhite
white
season and
season bringtotothe
andbring boil.Remove
theboil. Removescum. scum. beet
beetororchard.
chard.
Addananonion
Add onionstudded
studdedwith withaaclove,
clove,a acarrot
carrotand anda a
bouqtetgarni
bouquet garni(q.v.).
(q.v.).Simmer gentlyfor
Simmergently for4545minutes
minutesfor forlamb
lamb BLEU
BLEU(To (Tocookcookauaubleu)
bleu)- -Method
Methodapplied
appliedtotofreshwater
freshwater
orchicken,
or chicken,and and1il| hours
hours forforveal.
veal.Drain
Drainthe piecesand
thepieces and fish,
fistr,mainly
mainlytototroul.trout.This
Thisconsists
consistsofofplunging
plungingthe thefish
fishinto
into
retum them
retum them totothe
thepan withsmall
panwith smallonions
onionsand andmushrooms
mushrooms boilingcourt-bouillon
a aboiling court-bouillon(q.v.),
(q.v.),generally
generaliya amixture ofofwater
whichhave cookedininwhite and
andvinegar,
-iit,r.e water
which have been
beencooked whitecourt-bouillon
court-burillon (q.v.).
(q.v.). vinegar,seasoned
seasonedwithwithsalt
saltand
andsometimes
sometimesspiced
spicedwith
with
-Prepare aa velouté
Prepare velouti(q. (q.v.)
v.) byby thickening
thickening the liquorwith
theliquor with thyme
thymeand andbaybayleaf.
leaf.
whi3e roux (q.v.) and
roux (q.v.) and binding
biriCing with
with eggeggloks .rra.. Cooked
Cookedininthis thisway,
way,the
theskin
skinofofthe
white yolks andaridcream. thefish,
fish,especially
especially that
-accentuatethatofof
Add.a-little_lemon juice, sprinkle with
withchopped
ifiopped parsley, trout,
trout,takes
takeson onaaslightly
slightlybluish
bluishcolour.
Add a little lemon juice, sprinkle parsley,and and colour.To Toaccentua te the the
garnish with
with heart-shaped
heart-shapedcroûtons
cro0tons fried blueing,
blueing, the thefish
fishcan canbebesprinkled
gamish friedininbutter.
butier. sprinkledwith
withpure
purevinegar,
vinegar,before
before
Blanquette àI lala ménagère,
Blanquette n6nagdrgalso also caUed Fricass6e - _ Fry
crlled Fricassée Frv immersing it in court-bouillon.
immersing it in court-bouillon.
pigces of
pieces of meat,
meat, asas described above, inin butter,
described above, *itt orrt
butter, without AIl
All fish cooked au
fishcooked anbleu
blatare
aregenerally
generallyserved
servedwith
withmelted
melted
alfowing them
allowing them toto brown.
brown. Sprinkle
Sprinklewith withflour,
flour,stir,
stir, moisten
moisten butter, handed separately;separately; ororwith
with Hollandaise sauce (see
with white
white stock
stock or
or water,
water, bring
lgtlgfanded
SAUCE),
SAUCE),or
Hollandaise sauce (see
with bring toto the boil,season,
theboil, season, andandadd
add oranyanyother
other white
whitesauce
saucespecially
speciallyrecommended
recommended
an onion
an onion stuck with aa clove,
stuck with clove, aa carrot
carrot and and aabouquet
bouquet garni
garni for
forpoached
poachedfish. fish.
(q.v.).
(q.v.).
BT9 with
Bind with egg jrolks and
egg yolks cream, as
and cream, as described
described in in the
therecipe
recipe BLEU
BLEU D'AUVERGNE
D'AUVERGI\E --Cheese Cheesethat
thatisisstill
stillsometimes called
^ Blanquette. sometimes called
for
for Blanquette. For For further
further recipes for various
recipes for various blanquettes,
blanquettis, Bleu
Blat de
deSalers,
Salers, eaten
eaten from
from November
November totoMay. May.
LAMB, VEAL,
see LAMB,
see VEAL, CHICKEN.
CHICKEN
BLEU
BLEU DE
DE BASSILLAC
BASSILLAC -- Limousin
Limousincheese eaten from
cheese eaten from
BLANQUETTE DE
BLANQUETTE LIMOLX -- Sparkling
DE LIMOUX Sparkling white
white wine
wine made
made November
November to
to May.
May.
by the
by the 'natural'
'natural' method;
method; thethe sparkle
sparkle isis derived
derived from
from gas
gas
generated by
generated by natural
natural fennentation.
fermentation. A A second
second fermentation
fermentati-on
BLEU
BLE-U DE BRESSE -- ROl.~nd
DE BRESSE Roqnd blue
blue cheese
cheese from
fromthe
theco-
co-
takes place in
takes in the bottle without
the bottle without the operative
operative of
of Servaz
Servaz in
in the
the Ain.
Ain.
the addition
addition of of sugar.
sugar. (In
(In
other words,
other words,.through
through thethe transfonnation
transformation of of natural
n"turai grape
grup" BLIND (To bake). CUIRE À BLANC - Flan (pie shell) baked
Cfo bake). curBE A sreNc - Flan (pie shell) baked
sugar remaining in in the
the parent wine
wine after
after the
the first ferminti-
first fermenta- I|.II-VOi.e.
It is
is produced from the 'blind',
'blind', i.e. empty.
empty. Sorne
Some tart
tart and
and fian
flan cases are baked in the
cas"s'ir.
tion.) It the Mauzac
Mauzac and
and Clairette
Clairette grapes,
grapes, baked in the
oyen,
oven, and
and filled
filled with
with dried
dried vegetables,
vegetables, which
which are removed
and gets its name from the commune of Limou in
of Limoux the Aude.
intnJeuae. are removed
once the cases
once the cases are cooked. They are then filled with
are cooked. They are then filled
with the
the
ingredients
ingredients indicated
indicated in in the
the recipe.
recipe.
Cuire
Cuire au
an blanc also describes the cooking
blanc also describes the cooking of certain of certain
substances
substances (mostly
(mostly white
white offal
offal or
or variety
variety meats) in a special
meats| in a special
court-bouillon
cour t-bouillon (q.v.).
(q.v.).
BLINI
BLIM (Russian cookery) -- Blini
(Russian cookery) Blini are pancakes which have
are pancakes which have
been
been mademade in in Russia
Russia from
from lime
time immemorial,
immemorial, especially
especially
Bleak during
during Shrovetide.
Shrovetide. Recipes for blini and various fillings
are given under !.ecipes for blini and various-fillings
HORS-D'ŒUVRE.
are given under HORS-D'GUVRE.
A. Petit, in
A. Petit, nhis TraitC de
his Traité la cuisine russe, says that during
de h cuisine russe, says that during
Shrovetide,
Strovetide, 'from 'from the humblest cottage to the richest palace,
the humblest cottage to the richest palaci
they ail
they all have their blini,
have their blini, twice a day, the whole of that week'.
twrcn a day, the whole of that week'.
Batter for for blini.
bUni. pArs
PÂTE À BLINIS - Prepare a light batter of
Batter A BLrNrrs - prepare a light batter of
20 g. (t oz.,
20 e. G
oz., I1 cake)
cake) yeast
yeast in t
dilutod in I litre (scant
diluted litre (siant pint, 2i
pint, 2l
BLEAK
BLEAK (Able0.
(Ablet). ABLETTE Small European
ABLETTE -- Small European freshwater
freshwater fish,
fish, cups) warm
cups) warm milk milk and
and 50 g. (2 oz., t cup) sieved fiour. Leave
50 g.Q oz., ] cup) sieved floui. Leave
with
with white, rather insipid
white, rather insipid flesh. It is
flesh. It is used
used mostly
mostly for
for frying.
frying. ta ferment
to ferment in warm plae
in aa warm place for 2 hours.
for 2 hours.
Add 250
Add 250 g. g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sieved fi a ur, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl.
(9 o2.,2|
cups) sieved flour, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl.
BLENDER - An
BLENDER - An electrically
electrically operated
operated appliance
appliance used used in
in (t pint,
(| pint, l| li cups)
cups) wann milk and a pinch -of
warm milk of salt. Mix
restaurant
restaurant and
and home
home kitchens
kitchens for
for chopping
chopping and and pur6eing
puréeing
and a pinch salt. Mix
thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites
thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked whisked to a stiff froth, and
sm ail quantities
small quantities of of foodstuffs
foodstuffs in
in the
the preparition
preparation oT of soups,
soups, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) whipped
io a stiff froth, and
cream. Leave the
I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) whipped cream. Leave the
sauces, soufl6s,
sauces, souffiés, baby
babyfood
food and
and other dishes. ItIt isis also
other dishes. also usedto
used to batter to
batter ta rise
rise for
for 35
35 minutes.
minutes. Make small pancakes, frying
emulsify eggs for
emulsifyeggs for such
such sauces
sauces as
as Hollandaise,
Hollandaise, B6arnaise,
Béarnaise, etc.etc.
Make small pancakes, frying
them in
them in butter.
bu tter.
BLOATER. cRAeuELor
CRAQUELOT - Slightly salted, smoked herring
BLENIYY.
BLENNY.
f,reshwpter
BLENNIE cAGNETTE
BT.ENNTE CAGNETTE -
fish. All
freshwjiter fish. Ali the
the other
- A
other members
genus of
A genus
members of
of European
European
oftne
the blenny
blenny family
family
BLOATER.
served mainly in EngJand--slightly
served
salted,
for breakfast and smoked
for high herring
tea.
mainly in England for breakfast and for high tea.
The bloater
The bloateris grilled on a low fire and served with melted
is grilled on a low fire and served with melted
aresea
are seafish.
fish. AAcharacteristic
characteristicwhich
whichisiscommon
common to to all
ail blennies
blennies
butter or Maître d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER,
butter or Compound
isisthe
theabsence
absenceofscales,
of scales,thethebody
bodybeing
beingcovered
coveredwith
withaalayerlayerof
of Maltre d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound
viscousmucus
mucusof ofexceptional thickness. ItItvaries
exceptionalthickness. variesinin size
sizefrom
from
butters).
butters).
viscous
l010tota 1515cm.
cm. (4(4tota 66inches)
inches) and
and isis fawn-coloured,
fawn-coloured, speckled
speckled BLOCK. BILLOT - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed
BLOCK. BrLLor - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed
withbrown,
with brown,with withbrown
browntransversal
transversalstrips
stripsalong
alongthe
theback.
back. on three
on three legs,
legs, which serves for chopping-up meal.
which serves for chopping-up meat.
The
The blenny abounds in
blenny abounds in the
the waterways
waterways of
of the
the H6rault
Hérault A butcher's block is usually a wooden table encJosed in a
A butcher's block
- is usually a wooden tible enclosed in a
département. ItItisisparticularly
dCpartemenr. particularlyplentiful
plentiful inin Agde,
Agde, where
where itit isis wooden frame.
wooden frame.
128
t28
 BONBON
BONBON

BLOND DE
BLOhID VEAU -- Old
DE VEAU French culinary
Old French culinary term
tenn which and can be removed like of a cooked artichoke.
like a choke of artichoke.
describes white
describes Carême, nhis
white veal stock. Car6me, in his Traiti
Traité des sauces,
sauces, mushroom is found in
This mushroom in woods, under oak, oak, chestnut
uses this term.
uses and
and beech trees and
beech trees pines. In
and sometimes under pines. ln the
the Paris
Whit€
White veal
veal stock in the preparation
used in
is used
stock is preparation of sorne brown
of some region it
region appears in
it appears and is
in April and is sometimes veryvery plentiful
plentiful
sauces (see SAUCE) or for glazing
sauces glazing certain
certain substances.
substances. in
in thethe autumn. The underneath may be white, yellow
may be yellow or
greenish
greenish but white, yellow
but never red. The stem is white, yellow or brown;
VOLAILLE -- A synon)4n
BLOND DE VOLAILLD synonym of fond blond, c1ear
of fond clear
itit should spots. The
have any
never have
sbould never any red
red spots. flesh which
The flesh which is
or thickened chioken
chicken stock (see SAUCE, Brown sauces).
sauces).
exposed to the air remains white and never becomes green; green;
Rich veal or chicken stocks are used for braising
braising certain
certain its taste is very pleasant, never
never bitter.
vegetables, such
vegetables, ascelery,
su ch as celery, artichoke hearts, lettuces,
lettuces, etc. Very old damaged by
cèpes, with green tubes and damaged
old cipes, by slugs,
BLONDIR
BLONDIR -- The The operation
operation of lightly cooking
of!ightly cooking any
any substance
substance should be avoided.
in butter,
butter, oil,
oil, or other fat.
or other The
The cipe pized mushroom; itit is,
cèpe is a highly prized is, however, a
The
The term faire blondir also
tenn faire the cooking of
describes the
also describes of a little
!ittle indigestible. According to
indigestible. According some authorities,
to sorne authorities, its
flour and butter mixture which constitutes a light roux (ql
butter mixture (q.v.).
.). nutritive value, like
nutritive value, like that of other
that of fungi, is
other fungi, is insignificant.
insignificant.
(See MUSHROOMS.)
(See MUSHROOMS.)
SANG -
BLOOD. sANG - The blood of butchered animals
animaIs has
has no
number of industrial uses (the
part in nutrition but it has a number
treatment of wines, clarification of sugar,
treatment sugar, the manufacture
manufacture
of coal products,
products, fertilisers,
fertilisers, etc.).
The blood of the
The pig (often
the pig mixed with
(often mixed other blood) is
with other
usd
used to
to make boudin (black pudding),
make boudin pudding), and
and the
the blood
blood of
rabbit, hare and chicken is used
used to thicken the dishes called
ca lied
civets, which -- after the blood has been added -- must not be
heated above
heated 70'C. (158"F.),
above 70°e. (l58°F.), the temperature
tempe rature above
above which
blood coagulates and the mixture curdles.
coagulates and curdles.
Blood soups are made in Sweden (svartsoppe) and Pol Poland
and
(tchernina).
BLOOD PUDDING -- See PORK.
BLOOD PUDDING

BLLIE GAZELLF,. GAZELLE

BLUE GAZELLE. oAz,ELLE BLELTE -- Edible
BLEUE goat found
Edible goat found
mainly at the
mainly at Cape. Its
the Cape. Its meat, which is
meat, which very delicate,
is very delicate, is
like roebuck.
cooked Iike
BOAR -- See WILD BOAR.
jar Bombe
Born be moulds:
BOCAL -- Wide-mouthed,
BOCAL Wide-mouthed, short-necked glass bottle or jar
glass bottle ngit, old-fashioned
modern conical mould; right,
/e/r, modem
left, mould
old-fashioned round mould
for bottling
for or pickling
bottling or pickling vegetables fruit (gherkins,
and fruit
vegetables and
capers,
capers, small onions, mixed
small onions, cherries, small
vegetables, cherries,
mixed vegetables,
etc.) or for preserving fruit in brandy.
melons, etc.) in aa
BOMBE (Ice (Ioe cream).
cream). BOMBE GLAcfE -- !ce
BoMBE GLACÉE Ice cream
cream made in
BODY (To
BODY (To have). CORPS (lvon DU)
coRps (AVOIR ou) -- One
One says aa wine has
has mould, hence
spherical mould, its name.
hence its In modern
name. In cookery itit is
modem cookery
body when it produces in the mouth
produces a sensation of plenitude in mouth made in
made mould. (See
in aa conical mould. (See ICE CREAMS, Bombes.)
from aa harmonious combination
resulting from and
combination of strength and BONBON (Sweet,
BONBON candy) -- Sweets
(Sweet, candy) could Dot
Sweets could not have
have been
been
flavour. from the Orient by
made in in Europe until until sugar brought from
was brought
sugar was the Orient
fsuruflor.I -- The
BOILING. ÉBULLITION liquid in
The movement of aa liquid in the
the returning crusaders
the returning crusaders in the thirteenth century. century. It is known
is known
process of vaporisation.
vaporisation. Boiling takes place when, as as aa result that the first experiments
experiments with sugar-cane juices juices were
were carried
of heating, the
the steam pressure is at least equal that of the
to that
equal to out by the Jews Jews inin Sicily
Sicily about A.D. 1230.
about A.D. 1230. Before that time,
Before that time,
liquid. bonbons
bonbons were were made
made in in France with fruit
France with juice and
fruit juice and honey,
honey,
While a liquid is boiling its constant.
its temperature remains constant. flavoured with amber or or cinnamon.
The point of water has
The boiling point has been
been taken as
as the norm for
the nonn The art of
The art making sweets
of making sweets spread
spread very rapidly. In
very rapidly. In order
order to
to
comparative
comparative purposes,
pufposes, and
and stands at at lOO°e. (212'F.). This
100"C. (212°F.). This appeal
appeal to the the ladies at court, as
at court, well as
as weil as to gentlemen
great gentlemen
to the great
temperature
temperature decreases
decreases by about aa third
by about of aa degree
third of degree per who also
also had liking for sweetmeats,
had aa liking confectionery methods
sweetmeats, confectionery methods
m. (l08
100 m. yards) of altitude.
(108 yards) improved and
were improved
were and the variety of
the variety of sweets
sweets increased. During During
brilliant epoch
the brilliant
the epoch of of the
the Renaissance
Renaissance tbis art was
this art was carried
carried
BOIS SAINTE-LUCIE-Variety
BOIS DE SAINTE-LUCIE - Variety offragrant cherry tree.
of fragrant cherry further. Ali
even further.
even All the gentlemen carried
great gentlemen
the great carried bonbonnières
bonbonniDres
BOLÉE
BOLEE -- Receptacle, usually brownbrown earthenware,
earthenware, used for
used for of sweets,
of which they
sweets, which they offered
offered to to the
the ladies.
ladies. These bonbon.
These bonbon-
drinking cider
drinking in Normandy and
cider in This tenn
and Brittany. This term also
also niires were
nières works of
often works
were often of art,
art. sorne
some of of them
them set with
set with
applies
applies toto the
the cider in the
contained in
cider contained the receptacle. Thus itit isis
receptacle. Thus precious stones.
precious stones.
said:'Boire
said: 'Boire une bolie de
une bolée cidre'-
de cidre' 'To drink
- 'To drink aa bowlfuJ
bowlful of of The making
The making of of confectionery continued, and
confectionery continued, and aa great
great
cider'.
cider'. variety of
variety of sweets
sweets is is available
available today.
today.
Sweets can
Sweets can be be c1assified
classified in in four
four principal
principal groups
groups as as
BOLETUS
BOLETUS (Cèpe). BoLEr -- Genus
(CCpe). BOLET Genus of of fungi
fungi ofof which
which about
about follows: dragées
follows: (sugar-coated almonds)
dragies (sugar-coated almonds) and and pralines;
pralines;
70
70 species
species are
are known
known in in France.
France. Unless
Unless one
one is
is an
an expert,
expert, the
the bonbons
bonbons fondants;
fondants: boiled
boiled sweets pastilles.
and pastilles.
sweets and
only boletus mushroom which
only boletus which can gafely be
can safely gathered isis the
be gathered the Other confectionery
Other preparations, now
confectionery preparations, now factory-made,
factory-made, are are
boleni edulis,
boletus edulis, known
known in in France
France as cdpe de
as cèpe Bordeaux and
de Bordeaux and also classed
also classed in in the
the category
category of of bonbons,
bonbons, such such as caramels,
as caramels,
t?te de
tête de nègre when itit is
nigre when It has
young. It
is young. has aa bronze-col()Ured
bronze-coloured cap, cap, butterscotch, toffee, fruit
butterscotch, toffee, paste, aa certain
fruit paste, number of
certain number of
white underneath,
underneath, onon aa white
white and
and swollen
swollen stem.
stem. AsAs itit grows,
grows, marzipan preparations,
marzipan preparations, crystallised
crystallised fruitfruit andand walnuts,
walnuts,
the
the cap
cap becomes
becomes aa lighter
lighter brown,
brown, begins to to overlap
overlap the
the stem,
stem, almonds and
almonds and hazelnuts
hazelnuts dipped into sugar
dipped into cooked to
sugar cooked to crack
crack
the underneath becomes
the yellow. Later
becomes yellow. Later the
the tubes turn green,
tubes turn green, degree.
degree.

129
129
 BON.CHRNTIBN
BON-CHRÉTIEN

BON-CHREffEN -- AA pear
BON-CHRÉTIEN pear ofof which two varieties
which two varieties areare Flaky pastry
MoELIT -- Flaky
MOELLE pastry vol-ou-vent filled while
vol^au-vent filled while hot with aa
hot with
known; one
known; in summer,
ripens in
one ripens summer, thethe other in winter.
other in winter. (q.v.)
salpicon (q
salpicon .v.) ofof beef bone-marrow blended
beef bone-marrow blended with Demi-glace
td,th Demi-glace
The flesh
The of this
flesh of pear isis quite
this pear quite sweet but aa little
sweet but gritty. ItIt
little gritty. (se SAUCE),
sauce (see
sauce SAUCE), or or very
very concentrated
concentrated veal veal stock.
stock.
isis usually
usually ealen cooked.
eaten cooked. Flavour, ifif desired,
Flavour, little shallot
with aa little
desired, with shallot cooked
cooked in in white
white
BOFDON -- Type wine until ail
wine until all the liquid has
the liquid has evaporated.
evaporated.
BONDON of cheese
Type of in Neufchâtel
manufactured in
cheese manufactured Neufchdtel
in Normandy.
in Normandy. (See
(See CHEESE.)
CHEF,SE.) BONING. DÉSOSSER
BONING. onsossm. -- The
The process of removing
process of removing the
the bones
bones
from joint of
from aa joint of meat, poultry or
meat, poultry or other
other food,
food, whether
whether cooked
cooked
BOllE. os
BO/lt'E. os -- AnyAny of of the
thE ,eparate
sQparate parts parts of of aa vertebrale
vertebrate or raw,
or raw, which
which con
contains bones.
tains bones.
skeleton, forming iL~
skeleton, fonning its framework.
framework. Bones Bones are are composed
composed of of aa The boning
The boning ofof raw
raw meat
meat or poultry requires
or poultry skill, since
requires skill, since
cartilaginous substance
cartilaginous substance impregnated
impregnated with with calcareous
calcareous salts.
salts. the bones should be
bones should taken out
be taken without damaging
out without damaging thethe meaL
meat.
the
By boiling in
By boiling in water,
water, especially
especially under
under pressure,
pressure, they produce
they produce
gelatine. Bones,
Bones, added
added to to stock,
stoch give give itit aa gelatinous
gelatinous con-
con- BONITO. BONITE
BONITO. Small species
BoNrrE -- Small species of of tunny,
tunny, commonly
commonly
gelatine.
sistency.
sistency.
found in
found in the
the Mediterranean
Mediterranean and and on on the Atlantic coast,
the Atlantic coast,
of boues
Uses of bones and parins -- After
meat panngs
and meal After prolonged
prolonged cooking,
cooking, where French
where French fishermen
fishermen also
also cali germon.It
call itit germon. lt isis an important
an important
Uses
retain aa considerable
bones retain quantity of
considerable qu;mtity juices and
of juices gelatini
and geJatine fish on
fish on the North American Pacific
the North Pacific coast
coast and
and is prepared in
is prepared in
bones
which cancan be extracted, fiavoured
be extracted, flavoured with with vegetables,
vegetableg seasoned, the same
the way as
same way as tunny (tuna).
tunny (tuna).
wbich seisoned,
and used for soup.
used for soup.
and BONI\E-DAME -- Common
BON/It'E-DAME Common name for orach
name for in France.
orach in France.
Boil down
Boil down thisthis stock until itit isis transformed
stock until transformed into into meat
meat
jelly which keeps
jelly which well and
keeps weil and can
can be be used
used forfor strengthening
strengthening BONhIES-MARBS -- Vineyard
BONNES-MARES Vineyard of of the Cdte de
the Côte Nuits that
de Nuits that
soups and
soups and sauces.
sauces. produces noted
produces noted red
red wines. It isis situated
wines. 11 partly in
situated partly in the com-
the com-
To extract all the
extract ail juices, the
the jnices, the bones
bones shouldshould then
then bebe broken Morey-Saint-Denis and
mune of Morey-Saint-Denis and partly in in that
ihat of
of Chambolle-
To
up asas small
small as as possible.
possible. ThisThis secondsecond stockstock isis not
not an
an Musigny (C6te-d'Or), and
Musigny (Côte-d'Or), and has
has the right to
legal right
the legal to aa special
special
up
proposition, unless
economical proposition,
economical unless itit can can be be done
done without
without appe llation. (See
appella/ion. BURGUNDY.)
(See BURGUNDY.)
using any
using further fuel,
any further for instance,
fuel, for instance, if if one
one has permanent
has aa permanent BONNET-TURC -- Variety of
BONNET-TURC of pumpkin.
pumpkin.
fire at
fixe at one's disposal.
one's disposaI.
BONVALET
BONV ALET -- This cake,
cake, almost
almost identical with the Olle called
one calI cd
BONE-MARROW. MOELLE
BONE-MARROW. MoELLE -- A A soft,
soft, fatty
f,atty substance was created
Beauvilliers was in 1869
created in 1869 byby aa pastry-cook,
pastry-cook, Jules
contained in in marrow-bones.
marrow-bones.
contained Leroy, who
Leroy, was in
who was in charge of the
charge of the Maison
Maison Machin.
Machin. (See
(See
Spinal marrow is
Spinal marrow is that part of
that part of the
the central
central nervous
nervous system BEAwTLLTERS.)
BEA UVILLlERS.)
contained in
eontained in the
the spinal
spinal cord.cord. The
The spinal
spinal marrow of meat sold
marrow ofmeat sold
in sections
in sections is called amourette
is called amourette (see OFFAL or
(see OFFAL or VVARIETY
ARIETY BOOPS. BocuE
BOOPS. BOGUE -- Mediterranean
Mediterranean fish which two specics
fish of which species
MEATS).
MEATS). are known: the
are knowil" the common
common boops which reaches
boops which 35 cm.
reaehes 35 cm. (14
Beef bone-marrow. MOELLE
Beef bone-marrow. MoELLE DE BOEUF - Cut
DE BoEuF Cut the marrow
marrow in in inches) in length, and
inches) in and the
the bogue
bogue saupe.
thick
thick slices (using aa knife
slices (using dipped in
knife dipped in boiling poach
water). Poaeh
boiling water). This fish,
This fish, which
which can fried, àd la
be served fried,
can be la meunière,
meuniire, and
and
without
without boiling boiling in salt water,
in salt water, and drain. This
and drain. This is is used
used to poached,
poached, and used in bouillabaisse,
and which is also used bouillabaisse, is
is remark-
remark-
garnish steaks.
garnish steaks. able for
able for the
the brightness
brightness ofof its colour -- olive-yellow
iL~ colour olive-yellow on
Beef bone-marrow,
Beef bone-marrow, diced, diced, poached
poachcd and drained, is
and drained, is also the back and
and silver on
on the belly.
used
used in in various
various brown sauces.
brown sauces. BORAGE. BOURRACHE -- Herbaceous perennial plant.
BORAGE. BouRRAcr{E plant. Its
lts
Bone-narrov
Bone-marrow canapés. canap6s. CANAPÉS clNnprs A À raLA uoerm
MOELLE -- Made
from flowers
fiowers are cooked in
are cooked some regions of France as
in sorne as fritters.
fritter,.
from the the marrow
marrow of the large
of the marrow-bone cooked in
large marrow-bone in the The young
pt-au-fat Ieaves are used for flavouring
young leaves fiavouring salads, iced drinks,
drinks,
pot-ou-feu or or petite
petite marmite
marmite (see SOUPS AND
(see SOUPS AND BROTHS).
BROTHS).
These canapis herbal
herbai tea and vegetables, aiso for flavouring
vegetables, and also fiavouring claret cup.
These canapés can can be served in
be served in two
two ways:
ways:
L Spread
1. Spread the the marrow
marrow on slices of
on slices of toast. Season with
toast Season with salt BORAX
BORAX or
or SODIUM
SODIUM PERBORATE. soRArE
BORATE DE souDn
SOUDE- -
and frcshly ground
and freshly ground pepper.peppeL This sometimes fraudulently used,
This was sometimes used, under various names
names
2.
2. Spread
Spread a salpicon (q.v.)
a salpicon (q.v.) of marrow (poached
of marrow (poached and and well
weIl such
such ars 'preservative powder',
as 'preservative powder', 'antiferment',
'antiferment', etc.,
etc., for
drained)
drained) on slices of
on slices of toast. Decorate with
toasL Decorate strips of
with strips of marrow,
marrow, preserving
preserving meat, fish, butter,
butter, wine, etc.
poached in
poached salt water
in salt water and and drained,
drained, or seasoned with
or seasoned with pepper-
pepper- Its use was forbidden in
lts use by an order of
in France bv 14 Julv.
of 14 July,
corns ground
corns ground in in a a mill. Sprinkle with
milL Sprinkle with fresh
fresh breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs 1891.
1891.
tossed in
tossed in butter
butter and and drained.
drained. Put Put the canapés in
the canapis in the
the oven
oYen
for BORD-DE-PLAT
BORD-DE-PLAT - Small Small utensil used in
utensil used in the
the kitchen to10
for aa few few moments.
moments. protect
proteet the border of
the border food in
of a dish on which food sauce is being
in sauce being
Bone-marrow fritots
Bone-marrow frilols. FRrrors,i,
FRITOTS À ra MOELLE -- Cut
LA rraonrr.u Cut into
into thick
thick served.
served.
slices. Stick
slices. them together
Stick them together in pairs with
in pairs forcemeat (preferably
with forcemeat (preferably
ità gratin),
gratin), and steep for
and steep for 20 minutes in
20 minutes in oil, lemon juice,
oil. lemon juice, salt,
salt, BORDEALIX
BORDEAUX - Gourmands, connoisseurs of
Gourmands, connoisseurs of good things
things to10
pepper
pepper and and chopped
chopped parsley.parsley. and gourmets,
eat, and gourmets, experts in in the subtle art
the subtle art of
of wine
wine tasting,
lasting,
Dip
Dip themthem in aa light
in light batter,
bat ter, deep-fry
deep-fry in in very
very hot faL Drain,
hot fat. Drain, hold this town
hold this in particular
town in particular regard.
regard.
dry
dry in in aa cloth,
cloth, and and garnish
garnish with with fried
fried parsley.
parsley. Bordeaux,
Bordeaux, whose wines and food
whose wines food were
were being
being sung long long
Salpicon of
Salpicon of bone-marrow.
booe-marrow. sAI,prcoN SALPICON DB MOELLE -- Dice
DE MoELLE Dice thethe ago byby thethe poet
poet Decimus
Decimus Magnus Ausonius, born
Magnus Ausonius, born in in l.o.
A.D.
marrow
marrow and and poach
poach without
without bringing
bringing to the boil.
to the Blend with
boiL Blend with 3 J0, is
310, birthplace of
the birthplace
is the one of
of one the greatest
of the greatest menmen in in French
French
Demi-glace sauce
Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), (see SAUCE), flavouredflavoured with with shallot
shallot classical
c1assical cookery,
cookery, Dugl6r6.
Dugléré. He had for
He had for long been in
long been in charge
charge
which
which has has been cooked in
been cooked in white wine until
white wine until all the liquid
aIl the liquid hashas of
of the kitchens at
the kitchens the Cafi
at the Anglais in
Café Anglaas which at
Paris, which
in Paris, at that
that
evaporated.
evaporated. time
lime was frequented by
was frequented kings, princes
by kings, princes andand all
ail the
the most
most
This
This is is used
used as as aa filling
filling or garnish for
or garnish fiaky pastry
for flaky pastry vol-au-
vol-au- illustrious
illustrious gastronomes
gastronomes of of Europe.
Europe.
vent
vent and canapés, fried
and canapis, bread (in
fried bread (in fancy
fancy shapes), coddled or
shapes), coddled or Culinary Crayfish dà la
specialities -- Crayfish
Culiosry specialities la bordelaise;
bordelaise; lamprey
lamprey
poached
poached eggs, cggs, artichoke
artichoke hearts, large mushrooms,
hearts, large mushrooms, etc. etc. with
wilh leeks; musse/s dà hla bordelaise;
/eeks; mussels escargots dà In
bordelaise; escargots la Caudiran;
Caudéran;
Bone-manow
Bone-marrow sauce..sAUcEsauce. SAUCE A À r,c
LA Monrrn
MOELLE -- SauceSauce served
served jried whitebait;
fried sausages with
whitebait; sausages with oysters; entrecôte d
oysters; entrec|te à la
la
with meat, grilled
wilh meat, grilled or sautéed fish,
or saut6ed and poached
fish, and poached or or coddled
coddled bordelaise;
bordelaise; leg leg of lamb d
of lamb à la sauté d
chicken sauti
ficelle; chicken
la ficelle; à la
la
eggs. (See
eggs. (See SAUCE.)
SAUCE.) bordelaise;
bordelaise; Pauillac lamb d
Pauillac lamb la persillade;
à la persillade; foiefoie gras
gras with
with
Small vol-au-vent with
SmalJ vol-au-vent bone-marrow. roucrmrs
witb bone-marrow. BOUCHÉES A À rlLA grapes;
grapes; terrine de Nirac;
terrine de Nérac; pdtd
pâté de joie gras
de foie gras au
au truffes;
truffes; cApes
cèpes

130
130
 BORDEAUX
BORDEAUX

0 10 20 30K
o Red wines " White wines

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Map
Map of
of the
the Bordeaux
Bordeaux wine-growing
wine-growing district
district

àd la
la bordelaise;
bordelaise; aubergine
aubergine sauté
sautt with garlic; pancakes àd la
with garlic; la Bordeaux
Bordeaux bas has aa very
very comprehensive
comprehensive range range of of wines:
wines:
bordelaise; and
bordelaise; and famous
famous cakes
cakes made
made byby the
the pastry-cooks
pastry-cooks of of white, from the
white, from the driest to the
driest to the most liqueurJike; red,
most liqueur-like; from the
red, from the
Bordeaux. lightest (the Englishman's
lightest (the 'claret') to
Englishman's 'claret') to the
the most
most full-bodied.
full-bodied.
Excellent cheeses
cheeses are produced throughout
are produced throughout the the region.
region. Besides
Besides the
the so-called
so-called 'generic' appellations of
'generic' appellations of white
white andand
Wines
Wines -- Bordeaux
Bordeaux is is one
one of
of the
the great
great viticul tu rai regions
viticultural of
regions of red Bordeaux,
red Bordeaux, Bordeaux
Bordeaux supérieur,
sup6rieur, Bordeaux clairet and
Bordeaux clairet and
France,
France, producing sorne some of of the
the world's
world's best
best wines.
wines. The
The wine
wine Bordeaux
Bordeaux rosé,
ros6, which
which are
are produced
produced ail all over
over the
the region,
region, thethe
district of Bordeaux
district of Bordeaux isis completely
completely contained within the
contained within the great
great divisions
divisions are
are sub-divided
sub-divided into into regions, which in
regions, which in their
their
borders
borders ofof the
the Gironde
Gironde département, mainly in
dlpartement,mainly in the
the parts
parts Iying
lying tum
turn are
are divided
divided into
into vineyards
vineyards and and appellations.
appellations.
along
along the
the course
course of of the
the rivers
rivers Gironde,
Gironde, Garonne
Garonne and and Midoa AA long
Médoc. long strip
strip ofof land
land approximately
approximately 15 km. (9(9
15 km.
Dordogne.
Dordogne. It It has
has been
been known
known and and esteemed
esteemed for for more
more than
than miles) broad,
miles) broad, situated
situated onon the
the left
left banks
banks of of the
the Garonne
Garonne and and
two
two tbousand
thousand years.
years. Even
Even thethe Latin
Latin poet
poet Ausone
Ausone sang sang the
the the
the Gironde,
Gironde, extending
extending from Blanquefort inin the
from Blanquefort the south
south to to
praises of
praises of these
these wines.
wines. Pointe
Pointe de de Graves
Graves in in the north. There
the north. There are two distinct
are two distinct

131
r3l
BORDEAUX
BORDEAUX

not-so-good years
not-so-good years but but capable
capable of of maturing
maturing to to perfection
perfection inin
the great vintage
the great vintage years.years. White
White liqueur-like
liqueur-like wines, wines, very
very
similar to
similar to Sauternes,
Sauternes, are produced in
are produced in the
the south
south of of the region.
the region.
The dry
The dry white
white wineswines of of Graves
Graves makemake worthworthy companions
y companions
toto oysters,
oysters, seafood,
seafood, fish fish and
and shellfish, poached or
shellfish, poached grilled or
or griiied or
in delicate
in delicate sauces.
sauces. The The redred wines
wines serve
serve thethe same purpose as
same purpose as
those of
those of Médoc.
M6doc. They, They, too,
too, age magnificently. (See
age magnificently. (See classifica-
classifica-
tion GRAVES.)
tion GRAVES.)
Sauternes-Barsac and
Sauternes-Barsac and Cérons. These wine
CCrons. These wine districts form aa
districts form
sort of
sort of enclave
enclave in in the
the Graves
Graves region
region northnorth and and westwest of of
Langon. They
Langon. produce white,
They produce white, liqueur-like
liqueur-like wines wines the colour
the colour
and tas
and taste
te ofof honey,
honey, and have aa flowery
and have flowery bouquet,
bouquet, greatly
greatly
esteemed by
esteemed by connoisseurs.
connoisseurs. These wines are
These wines are the product of
the product of
the vinification
the vinification of of over-ripe
over-ripe grapes
grapes whichwhich are almost in
are almost in aa
crystallised state
crystallised state when picked, owing
when picked, owing to to the
the action
action of of aa
microscopic fungus
microscopic fungus called 'botrytis', which
called 'botrytis', which encourages
encourages the the
sugar to
sugar to concentrate
concentrate in in the
the grape.
grape. Sauternes
Sauternes wines wines areare
usually consumed
usuaJly consumed as as dessert wines, but
dessert wines, but realreal connoisseurs
connoisseurs
like to
like to drink
drink them them with
with foie gras, fish
foie gras, fish inin sweet
sweet sauces
sauces andand
certain parslied cheeses.
certain parslied cheeses.
Loupiac and
Loupiac and Saint-Croix-du-Mont,
Saint-Croix-du-Mont, situated situated on on thethe
opposite side
opposite side of of the
the Garonne
Garonne on on picturesque
picturesque slopes slopes over-
over-
looking the
looking river, produce white
the river, white wines similar to
wines similar to those
those ofof
Sauternes. (See
Sauternes. (See classilication
classification tables.)
A Bordeaux
A Bordeaux vineyard
vineyafi, (French
(French Govemmenl
Govemment Tourisl Ofice)
Tourist Office)
Saint-Emilion. This
Saint-Émilion. This wine
wine district
district isis situated
situated on on the
the right
right
divisions within the
divisions within the region:
region: Bas-Médoc
Bas-M6doc in in the
the north;
north; bank of
bank of the
the Dordogne
Dordogne east of the
east of the town
town of of Libourne,
Libourne, and and
Haut-M6doc in
Haut-Médoc in the
the south
south where
where the the communes
communes of of the great
the great extends into
extends into the the commune of of the
the same
same namename and and several
several
appellations of
appellations of Margaux,
Margaux, Saint-Julien,
Saint-Julien, Pauillac,
Pauillac, Saint-
Saint- neighbouring areas.
neighbouring
Estèphe, Moulis and
Estbphe, Moulis Listrac are
and Listrac situated.
are situated. Also worth
Also worth rhentioning
mentioning are the 'satellite'
are the 'satellite' appellations
appellations
M6doc wines
Médoc wines areare tannic
tannic and and generous,
generous, and and mature such as
such Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, which
as Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, which have havJthe the right
admirably. They
admirably. They are are superbly
superbly elegant with aa fine
wines with
elegant wines fine to affix
to affix the
the appellation 'Saint-Emilion' to
appellatlon 'Saint-Émilion' to their
their own.own. Two
bouquet and
bouquet and aroma,
aroma, andand make
make excellent
excellent accompaniments
accompaniments types of wine can be singled out: those of the
be singled 'slopes' which
the 'slopes'
to all types
to all types ofof roast
roast and grilled meats.
and grilled meats. Those
Those of of Moulis,
Moulis, are rounder and full-bodied, and
and more full-bodied, and those of the 'gravel',
the 'grave!',
Listrac and
Listrac and Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Estbphe are are best drunk with
best drunk with red meat and
red meat and which are
which are sappy
sappy and and more tannic. Both
more tannic. Both havehave the the same
same
game;
game; those
those ofof Margaux,
Margaux, Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien and and Pauillac with
Pauillac with rubiness and
rubiness and fullness
fullness which make them ideal with red meat. meat,
white meat
white meat andand lamb.
lamb. (See(See accompanying
accompanylng table table for
for the game, meat and
game, and sauce dishes, and and the cheeses.
classification
classification ofof these
these wines.)
wines.) The appellations cont|lies of Saint-Émilion
appellatians contrôlées Saint-nmilion are: are: Saint-
-The
The Chdteau-Haut-Brion in
The Château-Haut-Brion in the commune of
the commune of Pessac
Pessac isis Emilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Class6, Saint-Émilion-Grand-
Émilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Classé, Saint-Emilion-Grand-
not actually in
not actually Médoc but
in M6doc in Graves,
but in Graves, and and is
is the only ex-
the only ex- Cru-Classé, Saint-Emilion-Grand-Crq Saint Émilion.
Cru-Class6, Saint-Émilion-Grand-Cru, Emilion.
ception in
ception the firs t grow
in thejirst growth th category.
category. 'Satellite' appellations:
'Satellite' appe llations: Lussac-Saint-Émilion,
Lussac-Saint-Emilion, Montagne- Montagne-
Graves. The
Graves. Graves region
The Graves lies to
region lies to the
the south
south of of M6doc,
Médoc, Saint-Emilion, Parsac-Saint-Emilion,
Saint-Émilion, Parsac-Saint-Émilion, Puisseguin-SJint-
Puisseguin-Saint-
encircling
encircling the town of
the town of Bordeaux
Bordeaux and extending along
and extending along the
the Emilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion,
Émilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, Sablés-Saint-
Sa-bl6s-Saint-
left bank of
left bank of the Garonne to
the Garonne to the region of
the region Sauternes. It
of Sauternes. Il Emilion.
Émilion.
produces
produces red'sappy'wines
red 'sappy' wines closely
closely related
related to those of
to those of M6doc,
Médoc, Pomerol. This wine wine district begins at
district begrns at the
the very
very gates
gates of
of good lasting quality
of good lasting quality and and with
with a a bouquet reminiscent of
bouquet reminiscent of Libourne.
Libourne. A A ferruginous
ferruginous subsoil with a pebbly topsoil topsoil gives
the
the resin
resin and undergrowth of
and undergrowth of the nearby pine
the nearby pine forests;
forests; rich, sappy, full-bodied wines
rich, sappy, with a pronounced
wines with pronounced personality
personality
aristocratic dry
aristocratic dry white
white wines,
wines, also sappy, with
also sappy, with a a superbly
superbly powerful bouquet
and aapowerful bouquet - perfect companions for red meat,
perfect companions meat,
elegant bouquet
elegant bouquet and taste, pleasant
and taste, pleasant when drunk young
when drunk young inin the meat in sauce, game (even (even bigbig game) and cheese. cheese.

Dordogne
Dordogne River andvineyards
River and vineyardsof
ofSaint-Andr6-de-Cubzac
Snint-André-de-Cubzac

r32
132
 BORDEAUX
BORDEAUX

Secondgrowth
Second growlh
Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac
Mou ton-Rothschild Pauillac
Rauzan-Ségla ........... .'.
Rauzan-S6g1a..... :.. . . . . . Margadx
. ...... Margaux
Margaux
Rauzan-Gassies .....................
Rauzan-Gassies .
. Margaux
L6oville-Lascases. Saint-Julien
Léoville- Lascases ................... . Saint-Julien
L6oville-Poyferr6 Saint-Julien
Léoville-Poyferré ................... . Saint-Julien
L6oville-Barton Saint-Julien
Léoville-Barton .....................
.
. Sain t -J ulien
Margaux
Durfort-Vivens ..
Durfort-Vivens .................... . Margaux
Lascombes Margaux
Lascombes ............. . . , ........ . Margaux
Gruaud-Larose-Sarget Saint-Julien
Gruaud-Larose-Sarget .......... . ... . Saint-Julien
Gruaud-Larose Saint-Julien
Gruaud-Larose ..................... . Sain t -J ulien
Brane-Cantenac. . Cantenac
Brane-Cantenac .................... . Cantenac
Pichon-Longueville Pauillac
Pauillac
Pichon-Longueville ................. .
Pichon-Longueville-Lalande Pauillac
Pich on- Longueville- Lalande .......... . Pauillac
Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien
Saint-J ulien
Ducru-Beaucaillou ................. .
Saint-Estbphe
Cos d'Estournel.
Cos .
d'Estournel .................... . Saint-Estèphe
Montrose Saint-Estbphe
Montrose ......................... . Saint-Estèphe

Third growth
Third growth
Kirwan Cantenac
Kirwan .......... . ..... . .......... . Cantenac
Issan
Issan ..........
. . .............. . ... . Cantenac
Cantenac
Lagrange
Lagrange ......................... . Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
Langoa-Barton .
Langoa-Barton .................... . Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
Giscours .................... . .....
Giscours . Labarde
Labarde
Saint-Exup6ry..............
Malescot Saint-Exupéry
Malescot .. . Margaux
Margaux
Cantenac-Brown . Cantenac
Cantenac
Can tenac- Brown ................... .
Boyd .....................
Boyd . . . . . . ... . Cantenac
Cantenac
Palmer ...........................
Palmer . Cantenac
Cantenac
La Lagune
La Lagune ........ " .............. . Ludon
Ludon
Desmirail ................. . .......
Desmirail . Margaux
Margaux
Calon-Sdgur.....
Calon-Ségur ....................... . Saint-Estbphe
Saint-Estèphe
Ferribre ...........................
Ferrière . Margaux
Margaux
Pressing Marquis d'Alesme-Becker ...........
Marquis d'Alesme-Becker .
. Margaux
Margaux
Pressing grapes
grapes at
at Saint-Emilion
Saint-Emilion
(French
(French Government
Goverrunmt Tourisl Ofrce)
Tourist Office)

growth
Fourth growth
Fourth
Saint-Pierre- Sevaistre ........ .. ... . . .
Saint-Pierre-Sevaistre Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
Saint-Pierre- BontemPs .............. .
Saint-Pierre-Bontemps Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
of the
the Pomerol wines;
Pomerol wines; Branaire-Ducru.
Branaire- Ducru .................... . Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
There no official
There isis no official classification
classification of
Château-Pétrus place. Talbot ........................... "
Talbot Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
Chiteau-P6trus isis usually
usually given
given first
first place.
'Satellite' appellations of
'satellite' appellations of Pomerol: Lalande de
Pomerol: Lalande Pomerol,
de Pomerol, Duhart-Milon ...... .................. .
Duhart-Milon Pauillac
Pauillac
and Poujet ........................... .
Poujet Cantenac
Cantenac
and Néac
N6ac (which
(which has has the
the right
right toto the 'Lalande de
appellatian'Lalande
the appellation de
Pomerol'); La Tour Carnet
LaTour Carnet .................... . Saint-Laurent
Saint- Laurent
Pomerol'); ail all of
of these
these are
are red
red wines.
wines.
Bordeaux isis rich
of Bordeaux rich Lafon Rochet
Lafon Rochet....................... . Saint-Estbphe
Saint-Estèphe
Other appellations. The
Other appellations. The wine
wine district
district of
in glowing- Beychevelle ........................ .
Beychevelle Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien
in other appellation wines,
other appellation wines, which
which include
include thethe strong
strong glowing
wines west ofof Le Prieuré
Le Prieur6 ........................ . Cantenac
Cantenac
wines of of the
the Côtes
C6tes de de Fronsac
Fronsac and and Canon-Fronsac,
Canon-Fronsac, west
of the
the Garonne;
Garonne; and andthe Marquisde Terme.................. .
deTerme Margaux
Libourne
Libourne on on the right bank
the right bank of the Marquis Margaux
Bourgeois
Bourgeois and and thethe Blayais
Blayais ononthethe right
right bank
bank of of the Gironde,
theGironde,
opposite
opposite Médoc.
M6doc.
-Between growth
Fdth growlh
Between the the Garonne
Garonne and and the Dordogne,ininthe
the Dordogne, triangle
thetriangle Fifth
formed rivers, isissituated the
situated the Pontet-Canet....
Pontet-Canet ............. . ........ . Pauillac
Pauillac
formed by by the confluenoeof
the confluence of the
the two
two rivers,
region covets,aalargelarge Batailley ..........................
Batailley . Pauillac
Pauillac
regton 'Entre-deux-Mers'.
'Entre-deux-Mers'. The appellat.ioncovers
The appellation
Pauillac
production
prbduction of whitewine
of white wine which
which used used totobe mellow, but
bemellow, but Grand-Puy-Lacostc..................
Grand-Puy-Lacoste . Pauillac
which tlecurrent Grand-Puy-Ducasse ................
Grand-Puy-Ducasse . Pauillac
PauilIac
wni*r isisvinified
vinified drier
drieiand
anddrier
drier totomeet
meetthe currentdemands
demands
of whichhave have LynchBages
Lynch Bages.
....................... . Pauillac
Pauillac
oftoday.
today.There
Thereare aresorne
some veryverygoodred
good redwineswineswhich
LynchMoussas Pauillac
the right toto the
theright theappellations
appellationsBordeauxBordeatrx and andBordeaux
Bordeaux Lynch Moussas .................... . Pauillac
Labarde
sup6riJur.InIn the
supérieur. thesame
samegeographical
geographical region reeron there
there arearethethe Dauzac... '" .....................
Dauzac . Labarde
GravesdedeVayres,
theGraves Mouton-BaronPhilippe .....
PhiliPPe............. Pauillac
Pauillac
Premières,
Premibres, Côtes C6tesde deBordeaux,
Bordeaux, the Vayres, Mouton-Baron .
Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire Dordogne Le Tertre .........................
LeTertre . Arsac
Arsac
Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire and, and,on onthe
theborder
borderofofthetheDordogne
Haut-Bages ................. . .....
Haut-Bages . Pauillac
Pauillac
dipar t ement,Saint-Foy-La-Grande.
département, Saint-Foy-La-Grande
P6desclaux ........................
Pédesclaux . Pauillac
Pauillac
CLASSIFICATION MEDOCWINESWINES Belgrave ., ........................
Belgrave . Saint-Laurent
Saint-Laurent
CLASSIFICATIONOF OFTHE
THEGREAT
GREATMÉDOC
Saint-Laurent
First growth
Firstgrowth coMMUNE
COMMUNE Camensac
Camensac.............. . .......... . Saint-Laurent
Saint-Estbphe
.
Château-Lafite
Chiteau-Lafite......................
. . Pauillac
Pauillac Cos-Labory
Cos- La bory ....................... . Saint-Estèphe
Pauillac
Chiteau-Margaux
Château-Margaux .................. . Margaux
Margaux Clerc Milon.......................
ClercMilon . Pauillac
Pauillac
.
Château-Latour
Chflteau-Latour..................... . Pauillac
Pauillac CroizetBages
Croizet Bages...................... . Pauillac
Macau
Chdteau-Haut-Brion
Château-Haut-Brion ................ . Pessac (Graves)
Pessac(Graves) Cantemerle............ . ...........
Cantemerle . Macau

133
133
 BORDELAISE (A LA)
BORDELAISE (À LA)
CLASSIFICATION OF THE SAUTER.NES WINES
First great growth
CLASSIFICA TION OF THE SA UTERNES WINES sfA.rrLr.EsÀ AL'ANCIENNE
BÉATILLES l',q,NcrcNNn- -Fill Filla abuttered
butteredring ringmould
mouldwith witha a
First great growth coMMUNE vealororchicken
chickenMousse/ineforcemeat
Mousseline forcemeat(see FOnCEMEATS)
(seeFORCEMEATS)
Chdteau d'Yquem COMMUNE
Sauternes
veal
poachslowly
andpoach
Château d'Yquem .................. . Sauternes and slowlyininthe theoyenoveninina abain-marie
bain-marie(q.v.). (q.v.).Wh Whenen
cooked,allow
cooked, allowtotostand standfor fora afew
fewminutes
minutesfor forthe forcemeattoto
theforcemeat
First growth
First growth settle.
Chiteau-LaTourBlanche...
Château-La Tour Blanche ........... . Bommes
settle.
Turnthe thering ringout outontoontoa adish,dish,and fillthe
andfi.!l thecentre
centrewithwitha a
ChAteau-Peraguey
Château-Peraguey .................. .
Bommes
Bommes
Bommes
Tum
ragofitofoflambs'
ragoût lambs'sweetbreads,
sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs
combsand andkidneys,
kidneys,
Chdteau-Rayne-Vigneau....
Château-Rayne-Vigneau ............ . Bommes trufresand andmushrooms,
mushrooms,mixed mixedintna aVelouté Veloutdsauce (iee
Chdteau-Suduiraut
Château-Suduiraut ................. .
Bommes
preignac
Preignac
truffles
SAUCE) flavoured
SAUCE) flavouredwith withMadeira-laced
Madeira-lacedTruffle Truffiefumet
sauce(see
(see
Chdteau-Coutet. . fumet(see
Château-Coutet .................... . Barsac
Barsac FUMET).Gamish Garnishwith withslivers
sliversofoftruffle
truffieheatedheatedinincon-
Chiteau-Climens
Château-Climens Barsac
FUMET).
centratedmeat meatstock. stock.
con-
Chdteau-Guiraud...................
. . Barsac centrated
Château-Guiraud .................. . Sauternes Ringfor brainsài lalapiémontaise.
forbrains pi6montaise.BORDURE nonounsDE
Chflteau-Rieussec
Château-Rieussec .................. .
Sauternes
Fargues
Fargues ÀALA
Ring
m PIÉMONTAISE
pfuoNrArse - - Butter Butter aaring ringmould
mouldand
DECERVELLE
andfill
cERVELLE
fillititwith
with
Chdteau-Rabaud-Sigalas . ... Bommes put
Château-Rabaud-Sigalas ............ .
Ch0teau-Rabaud-Promis .... .
Bommes Risotto
Risotto àdlalapiémontaise
pidmontaise(see (seeRICE).
RICE). Put the mouldininthe
themould the
Château-Ra baud-Promis ............ . Bommes
Bommes ovenfor
oyen foraafew fewminutes
minutestotoheat heatititthoroughly.
thoroughly.
Turnout
Turn outand andfill fillthe centrewith
thecentre withescalopes
escalopes of ofCalves'
Calves'brains
brains
Second growth
Second growth
Ch6teau-Myrat .. àdlapoulette
la poulette (see (seeOFF OFFAL AL or oTVARIETY
VARIETY MEATS) MEATS)mixed mixedwith with
Château-Myrat .................... . Barsac
Barsac slicedmushrooms.
sliced mushrooms. Decorate Decorate the thebrains
brainswith with thin
thin slices
slicesof of
Ch0teau-Doisy-Dubroca ... . Barsac truffiesheated
heated in inconcentrated
Château-Doisy-Dubroca ............ concentratedmeat meatstock.
Chdteau-Doisy-Dadne .
Château-Doisy-Daëne .............. .
Barsac
Barsac
Barsac
truffies
Egg ring
Egg ring Brillat-Savarin.
Brillat-Savarin. BORDURE
stock.
BoRDT.JRE D'OEUFSD'oEUFsBRILLAT-BRTLLAT-
Ch0teau-Doisy-V6drines .... sAvARrN
Château-Doisy-Védrines ............
Chdteau-Arche .. . Barsac
Barsac SAVARIN - Fill aa mould
Fill mould with with Veal Veal forcemeat
forcemeat (see (see
Château-Arche .................... . Sauternes
Sauternes FORCEMEATS) and
FORCEMEATS) and poachpoach inin the theoyen
oven in in aabain-marie
bain-marie
Ch0teau-Arche-Lafaurie....
Château-Arche-Lafaurie ............ . Sauternes
Sauternes (q.v.). Turn
(q.v.). Turn out out and and fillfill the
the centre with eggs
centre with which have
eggswhich have been
been
Chdteau-Filhot . Sauternes
Château-Filhot .................... . Sauternes scrambled with
scrambled with Parmesan
Parmesan cheese cheese and anddiced truffies. Sprinkle
diced truffies. Sprinkle
Chdteau-Broustet
Château-Broustet .................. . Barsac
Barsac with grated
with grated Parmesan,
Parmesan, pour pour aa little
little melted butter over,
melted butter over, andand
Chdteau-Nairac. . Barsac brown the
Château-Nairac .................... . Barsac brown the top top in in aa veryvery hothot oyen.
oven.
Ch0teau-Caillou . Barsac ring ài la
Egg ring la princesse.
princesse. BORDURE pRrNcEssE -_
Château-Caillou ................... . Barsac Egg BoRDURE D'OEUFSD'oEUFs PRINCESSE
Chdteau-Suau...
Château-Suau " ................... . Barsac
Barsac Prepare as
Prepare as Egg Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin,
Brillat-Savarin, using using scrambled
scrambled eggs eggs
Ch6teau-de Malle preignac with asparagus
Château-de Malle .................. . Preignac with asparagus tips tips and and truffles.
truffies. Scrambled
Scrambled eggs with cray-
eggs with cray-
Chdteau-Romer-Lafon
Château-Romer-Lafon .............. . Farfues
Fargues fish, shrimps,
fish, shrimps, fruits fruits de mer, mushrooms,
de mer, mushroomg truffles, trufles, tomatoes,
tomatoe;,
Ch0teau-Lamothe-Bergey .. . Sauiernes can be
etc. can prepared in
Château-Lamothe-Bergey ........... . Sauternes etc. be prepared in the
the same
same way.way.
Chdteau-Lamothe-Espagnet . Sauternes Cream fish
Château-Lamothe-Espagnet ......... . Sauternes Cream fish forcemeat
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS)
FORCEMEATS) isis used used for for
Lenten entrées.
Lenten entries.
B-O_RDELAISE (A LA) - Culinary term which applies to Fish forcemeat
Fish forcemeat ring ring with
with various
various garnishes.
garnishes BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE
BORDELAISE (À LA) - Culinary term which applies to polssoNs - These
different dishes in four categories. The first is chariiterised FARcE DE
FARCE DE POISSONS - These rings,rings, also Lenten fare,
also Lenten fare, are
are made
made
different dishes in four categories. The first is characterised
by the sauce bordelaise, vvitth white or red wine and marrow-
by the sauce bordelaise, with white or red wine and marrow-
of Cream
of Cream fish fish forcemeat
forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) of
(see FORCEMEATS) of pike,
bone fat; the second by the addition of cipes; the third by whiting or
whiting otherfish,
or other fish, moulded and baked as described above. above.
bone fa t; the second by the addition of cèpes; the third by
mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish oi artichokes and They are
They are filled with with a ragoût
ragoitt of fishfish or shellfish, the follow-
mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish of artichokes and
potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. ing being particularly
ing being particularly sui suitable
table forfor the
the purpose: Ragoût Ragofit of of
potatoes. Other ingredients can be added.
This term also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), fruity
fruits de
de mer in shrimp, shrimp, nantua nantua or o, normande
normand" sauce;sauce; oysters
oystrrc andoid
This terrn also applies to various sweet courses (desserts),
cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cipes d ln b)ordetaisi'; mushrooms in
mushrooms veloutd sauce; mussels
in velouté mussels àd la poulette; shrimps; shrimps;
cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cèpes à la bordelaise;
CRAYFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.)
CRA YFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.)
s/ices of
slic-es lobs ter or sp@
of lobster spiny Iobster
lobs ter d uimi or àd l'américaine;
à la crème l,amdricaine;
fish puries
fish purées or salpicons
salpicons with truffies truffles and
and mushrooms.
BORDER @ing). BoRDURE - Dishes that are served in the
BORDER (Ring). BORDURE - Dishes that are served in the Ring of
Ring of frogs'
frogs' legs legs vert-pr6
vert-pré -- BoRDURE
BORDURE DE cRENourLLEs
DE GRENOUILLES
form of a ringn which can be
fonn of a ring, which can made of
be made quenelle or
of quenelle or other
other vrnr-pnf
VERT-PRÉ - - Prepare
Prepare the frogs' legs as described described in the recipe
forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot for.Aspic
forcemeat,
dishes; jelly,rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot for Aspic offrogs'
offrogs' legs legs dà I'ancienne
l'ancienne (see (see ASpIC),
ASPIC), coatingcoating thern
them
custards
dishes; jelly, custards and creams, rice
and creams, rice di,impdratrice, etc.
à l'impératrice, etc. only with
only with WhiteWhite chaud-froid
chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with
for cold and sweet dishes. jelly.
for cold and sweet dishes. jelly.
Borders can be made of small cro0tons of bread, cut into
Borders can be made of small croûtons of bread, cut into Prepare a
Prepare a jelly
jelly ring decorated with circlets of truffies.
ring decorated truffles.
vqigus shapes and frled in butter, fixed to the iniide edge
various shapes and fried in butter, fixed to the inside edge
gf the gerving Season cooked,
Season cooked, well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus tips tips with
with oil,oil,
dish with
of the serving dish with aa mixture
mixture of of flour
flour and egg whiie.
and egg white. vinegar, salt
yineg3l, salt and and pepper.pepper. Turn Tum the the ring
ring ou!-out, andand putput thethe
Fancyjelly shapes can be similarly used for cold diif,es, and
Fancy jelly shapes can be similarly used for cold dishes, and frogs' legs on
frogs' legs on iq it, overlapping
overlapping them slightly. Fill
them sliglitly. Fill the
the centre
centre
vegetable borders for hot dishes.
vegetable borders for hot dishes. with !t"
SF asparagus tips
the asparagus blended with
tips blended with concentrated
concentrated aspic aspic
Ring (border) of béatilles ià I'ancienne.
Rfug (border)
of Hatilles l'ancienne. BoRDURE jelly.
BORDURE DE DE jelly. Decorate
Decorate with with truffie
truffle dipped
dipped in in jelly.
jelly.

Fluted aodplain
Flutedand plainring
ringmoulds (Dehillerin.phot.
moulds(Deiiilerin. Phot. Larousse\
Larousse)

r34
134
 BORDER
BORDER

Piping aa border
Piping border of
of duchess (furo6s€)
duchess potatoes (Larousse) Border of
Border of duchess polatoes (Ldrousre)
potatoes (Larousse)

forcemeat ring with various

Game forcemeat various garnishes. BORDURE
BoRDURE DE Veal or chicken
Veal or forecemeat ring
chicken forecemeat ring with
with various
various garnishes.
GIBIERS - These are
FARCE DE GIBIERS - made of Game (see
forceineat (see
Game forcemeat DE FARCE
BoRDURE DE
BORDURE FARCE DE vEAU, DE
DE VEAU, voLAILLE -
DE VOLAILLE Prepare as
- Prepare as
FORCEMEATS).
FORCEMEATS). The The rings are filled
rings are with purées
filled with pur6es or sal- recipe for
the recipe
indicated in the for Ring biatilles
Ring of béa tilles àd l'ancienne.
I'ancienne.
game in White or Brown
of game
picons of
picons SAUCE).
Brown sauce (see SAUCE). Turn the
Tum ring out
the ring onto aa dish.
out onto Fill the
dish. Fill the centre with aa
centre with
Potato ring.
Potato ring. aonouRn
BORDURE DE poMMEs DE
DE POMMES TERRE -- Duchess
DE TERRE Duchess garnish: veal
gamish: amourettes àd la
veal amourettes poulette, cocks'
la poulette, cocks' combs
combs andand
potato mixture (see POTATOES)
POT A TOES) piped through through aa forcing- kidneys àit la uime, slices
la crème, slices ofof chicken
chicken inin velouté
veloati sauce,
sauce, lambs'
lambs'
bag onto a buttered dish, or moulded by hand hand into aa ring. or calves'
or brains àd la
calves' brains poulette, veal
la poulette, or chicken
veal or chickm hashhash àd tala
Fill the
Fill the centre with slices
centre with cooked fish covered
slices of cookedfish covered with crime, simple
crème, simple or or mixed
mixed salpicons
salpicons inin white
white or or brown
brown sauce,
sauce,
Mornay sauce; slices of various shellfish; hashes hashes of various purte of
purée of chicken
chickm in in velouté
velouti sauce, eggs scrambled
scntce, eggs scrambled withwith
kinds of meat; vegetables cooked in in butter,
butter, etc.
etc. fresh vegetables
various ingredients, fresh vegetables dressed with butter
dressed with or
butter or
Brush
Brush the the ring with beaten
ring with sprinkle with
egg, sprinkle
beaten egg, with grated
grated cream, macidaine of
cream, macédoine of vegetables blended with
vegetables blended with butter
butter oror
Pannesan,
Parmesan, and and brown in in the
the oyen
oven or under the the grill. mushrooms àh la
cream, mushrooms
cream, ln crème.
crime.
Riee ring with
Rice ring variow garnishes.
with various garnishes. BORDURES
BoRDURES DE RIZ --
DE RIZ
These
These rings (borders) are prepared from
are usually prepared from rice
rice pilaf,
risotto, or rice cooked in consommé
consomm6 and and bound with egg.
Press
Press the
the rice
rice weil into the
well into mould and
the mould and set it in
set it in the
the oYen
oven
for aa few minutes.
When turned out out onto
onto aa serving
serving dish, fill the
dish, fiil the centre with
centre with
various ingredients, such as mixed ragoûts ragottts in white or brown
or brown
sauce, salpicons, etc.
sauce, various salpicons, etc.
Semolina
Semolina ring with various
ring with garnishes. BORDURE
various garnishes. BoRDURE DE DE
sEMouLE -- Prepare like
SEMOULE like Rice ring, using
Rice ring, using semolina
semolina cookedcooked inin
consommé
consomm6 and and bound with egg. egg.

Fancyjelly
Pancy jelly shapes arranged in
shapes arranged in aa border round aadish
border round dish
(Larousse)
(Larousse)

Cold rings
Cold for entrées
rings for or sweet
entrees or sweet dishes.
dishes. BORDURES
BoRDURES FROIDES
FRoIDES
D'ENTREITTs -
D'ENTRfEs, D'ENTREMETS
D'ENTRÉES, - These borders are
These borders are usually
usually made
made
of aspic
of or fruit
aspic or jelly. Cold
fruit jelly. Cold entrée
entrie borders
borders can also be
can also made
be made
from
from foie gras, ham,
foie gras, ham, game, chicken
game, chic or fish
ken or fish mousses.
mousses.

RINGS FOR
RINGS FOR DESSERTS.
DESSERTS. BORDURES D'ENrREtffirs -- For
BoRDUREs D'ENTREMETS For
cold sweets,
cold sweets, custards
custards (see CREAMS, Custard
(see CREAMS, Custard creams)
creams) are arc
Ring
Ring (border)
(border) of
of sole
sole àd la
la normande
normande made in
made in aa mould
mould that that has
has been
been caramelised.
caramelised. WhenWhen turnedturned
out,
out, the centre isis filled
the centre filled with macédoines or
withmacddoines pur6es of
or purées fruit, etc.
of fruit, etc.
Ring
Ring of sole àI la
of sole la normande.
normande. BORDURE
BoRDURE DE· sorEs ÀA LA
oe SOLES I-l Rings can
Rings can be be made made of of Dessert rice (see
Dessert rice RICE) and
(see RICE) and
NORMANDE
NoRMANDE - - Prepare
Prepare aa Cream
Crearn fish forcemeat (see
fuh forcemeat (see FORCE-
FORCE- semolina (q.v.), and
semolina (q.v.), filled with
and filled with macédoines
macidoines of fruit or
of fruit or any
any
MEAT),
MEAT), bake
bake and tum itit out
and tum out on
on aa dish. Fill the
dish. Fiil the centre
centre with
with other
other mixture
mixture suitable
suitable for for aa hot
hot sweet.
sweet.
aa ragoût of mussels,
ragof,rt of mussels, shrimps
shrimps andand mushrooms,
mushrooms, bound bound Custard
Custard ringring with mirabelles ài lala vosgienne.
with mirabeUes vosgienne. BORDURE
BoRDUREDE DE
with
with Normande sauce (see
Normande sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). MTRABELLES ÀA LA
MIRABELLES m VOSGIENNE Prepare aa kirsch-flavoured
vosctENNE -- Prepare kirsch-flavoured
Roll
Roll up
up smail
small sole
sole fillets
fillerc and
and cook
cook inin white
white wine.
wine. Place
Place aa Custard crearn (see
Custard cream (see CREAMS).
CREAMS).
poached,
poached, debearded
debearded oysteroyster on on each fillet, coyer
each fillet, cover withwith Fill aa caramel-coated
Fill caramel-coated ring ring mould
mould withwith thethe cream,
cream, and and
normande sauce and
normande sauce and decorate
decorate withwith thin
thin strips
strips ofof truffie
truffie-. cook in
cook in aabain-marie
bain-marie (q.v.). Allow toto cool
(q.v.). Allow cool completely
completely beforebefore
.' Garnish
Garnish with
with crayfish cooked in
crayfish cooked court-bouillon (q.v.).
in court-bouillon (q.v.). tuming
turning out.
out.

135
135
BORIC
BORIe

Cook the
Cook mirabelles in
the mirabelles in syrup.
syrup. Prepare
Preparewhippedwhipped cream creamor or sBMot LEGARNIE
SEMOULE GARNIEDE
DEFRUITS
FRUTTS- Fillaabuttered
-FiU butteredring
ringmould
mouldwithwith
Chantilly ueam (see
Chantilly cream CREAMS). Turn
(see CREAMS). Turn out out the
the ringring onto
onto sweeteneddessert
sweetened dessertsemolina, pressingititweil
semolina,pressing iniothe
wellinto themould.
mould.
aadish,
dish, and fill the
and fill the centre
centrewith with well-drained
well-drained mirabelles.
mirabelles. Top Top Heat foraafew
Heat for fewmoments
momentsininaalow lowoven.
oven.,
with whipped
with whipped cream. cream. Serve
Serve withwith mirabelle
mirabelle saucesauce laced with
laced with Turnonto
Turn onto aadish,
dish,and fillwith
andfill fruitcooked
withfruit cookedininvanilla-
vanilla-
kirsch.
kirsch. flavoured syrup:
flavoured syrup:halved
halvedapricots,
apricots, sliced pineapple,cherries,
slicedpineapple, cherries,
Riee ring with
Rioe ring with cherries.
cherries. BORDURE
BoRDURE DE DERIZ lux CERISES
Rtz AUX Fill
crnrsss - - Fill pears, quartered apples,
pears, quartered apples, etc.
etc.
aa buttered
buttered ringring mould
mould with with Dessert
Dessert rice (se RICE).
rice(see RICE).Heat Heat Heatininthe
Heat theoven
ovenforforaafew
fewminutes,
minutes, and
andwhen
whenready
readytoto
the mould
the mould for for aa few minutes inin the
few minutes the oven, and turn
oven, and turn itit out
out overititaafew
pour over
serve, pour
serve, fewtablespoons
tablespoons of ofliqueur-flavoured
liqueur-flavoured
onto aa dish.
outo Fill the
dish. Fill the centre
centre withwith stoned
stonedcherries which have
cherries which have apricot sauCe,
apricot orother
sau@, or fruitsauce
otherfruit saucewhich
whichgoes
goeswith
withthe
thefilling.
filling.
been simmered in
been simmered in syrup
syrup and and combined
combined with with aa little
little goose-
goose-
jelly.
berry jelly.
berry BOinC (Acid). BORIQUE
BORIC (Acid). BoRIeTJB- -Sometimes
Sometimes used preservative
usedasasaapreservative
ring ài lala créole.
Rice ring
Riee cr6ole" BORDURE
BoRDURE DE Rtz ÀA LA
DE RIZ re cRÉOLE
cnfor,e - - agent (see
ageht BORAX).
(seeBORAX).
Butter aa savarin
Butter savarin ring mould and
ring mould fill with
and fill with sweetened
sweetened dessert
dessert
BORSCH-- See
BORSCH SeeSOUPS.
SOUPS.
rice. Turn out,
rice. Turn out, and fill the
and fill middle with
the middle with half-slices
half-slices of of piue-
pine-
apple which have
apple which have been poached in
been poached in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. BOTER MELK
BOTER MELKoror BUTTERMILK
BUTTERMILK(Belgiao cookery)- -
(Beleisn cookery)
Decorate with
Decorate with preserved
preserved cherries
cherries andand angelica
angelica lozenges.
lozenges. Boil pearl
Boil barley inin buttermilk,
pearl barley buttermilk, sweetened with brown
sweetenidwith. brown
Heat in
Heat in the
the oven,
oven, and and serve with rum-flavoured
serve with rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot for l!l{ toto22 hours.
sugar, for
sugar, hours. Before
Before serving, blendininaalittle
serving blend little
sauce (see
sauce SAUCE).
(see SAUCE). cornflour (comstarch)
cornflour diluted inin cold
(cornstarch)diluted cold water.
water.Treacle
Treacle
Riee ring Montmorency.
Rioe ring Montmorency. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ MoNTMoRENcy -
Rtz MONTMORENCY- (molasses) isissometimes
(molasses) sometimes added.
added.
Fill aa buttered
Fill buttered ring ring mould
mould with with sweetened
sweetened dessertdessert rice,
rice, Vermicelli, rice,
Vermicelli, rice,semolina,
semolina" and
and tapioca
tapiocacan
canalso
alsobe
becooked
cooked
pressing itit on
pressing on weil
well to to ensure
ensure thatthat there
there are no holes.
are no Cover,
holes. Cover, in buttermilk,
in buttermilk, with withcurrants,
currants, sultanas
sultanas and
and cooked
cookedapples
apples
and cook in
and cook in the
the oven
oven forfor aa few
few minutes.
minutes. Remove,
Remove, and turn
and turn added.
added.
onto aa dish.
onto dish.
Fill the middle with
the middle with stoned
stoned cherries
cherries which which have BOTHEREL (Vicomte
BOTHEREL (Vicomte de)de) -- Famous
Famous financier
financier whowho waswas
Fill have been
been
cooked in
cooked in syrup
syrup and well drained,
and weil drained, altemating
alternating them them withwith
born in Dinan
born in Dinan in n 1784
1784 and
and who
whodied
diedthere
there in
in 1859.
1859. His
His name
name
layers of
layers of hothot French pastry pastry cream (see CREAMS).
crecnn (see CREAMS). Finish Finish
deserves to be
deserves to be mentioned
mentioned in in aadictionary
dictionary of of cookery
cookery forfor itit
with aa layer
with layer of of cherries,
cherries, pilingpiling them
them slightly into aa dome
slightly into dome
was
was hehe who,
who, under
under thethe Restoration,
REstoration, created
created 'omnibus-
'omnibus-
restaurants'
restaurants'..
Sprinkle with
shape. Sprinkle
shape. with crushed
crushed macaroons,
macaroons, pour pour on on sorne
some
melted butter,
melted butter, and g)aze in
and glaze in aa very
very hothot oven.
oven. BOTTLE. BOUTEILLE
BOTTLE. BourErLLE -- Oenology,
Oenology, the the science
science which
which deals
deals
Serve with Cherry
Serve with Cherry saucesauce (see(see SAUCE)
SAUCE) which which has has been
been wi th wine,
with wine, gives
gives the
the following
following defini tion to
definition to the
the word
word bottle:
bottle:
laced with kirsch. A glass
'A phial of
glass phial various shapes
ofvarious shapes and
and col ours according
colours according to
to
Semolina ring
Semolina ring filled
fined withwith various
various fruit.fruit. BORDURE
ronounn DE DE the
the nature
nature of
of the wine itit isis intended
the wine intended toto contain.'
contain.' This
This means
means

Botties:
Bottles:
1.l. Double
Double litre;
litre:
2.2.Litre'.
Litre;
3.3. Demi-litre;
Demi-litre;
4.
4. Bordeaux
Bordeaux bottle;
bottle;
5.5. Fillette
Fillette d'Anjou;
d'Anjou;
6.
6. Demi-Anjou;
Demi-Anjou;
7.7. Anjou;
Anjou;
8.8. Mâconnaise;
Miconnaise;
9. Champagne;
9. Champagre;
10.
10. Bourgogne;
Bourgogne;
II.
11. Saint-Galmier;
Saint-Galmier;
12.
12. Fiasco de
Fiasco Chianti;
de Chianti:
13. Fl$te ài vin
13. Flûte vin d'Alsace
d'Alsace

136
136
 BOUCHE DU
BOUCHE DU ROI
ROI

wines should
Bordeaux wines should not bottled in
be bottled
not be in Burgundy should be
should avoided, as
be avoided, should foods
as should showing signs
foods showing
of
that Bordeaux
that Burgundy signs of
wine
wine bottles, and vice
bottles, and versa. No
vice versa' No doubt this larv
doubt this law can
can bebe fermentation (bubbles
fermentation (bubbles of
of gas, bulging lids).
gas, bulging lids).
when itit isis aa case
digressed when case of
of ordinary
ordinary table wines; in
table wines; in fact,
derived from
fact,
digressed
BOUCANADE -- Spanish
BOUCANADE term derived
Spanish term from times
when
times when
sold in
slang it
most of
bottles. In
most wines are
these wines
of these are sold so-called Saint-Galmier
in so-called
placed in
Saint-Galmier
wine was
wine was placed in goatskin
goatskin bottles. In slang it means
means
bottles. The
bottles. practice of
The practice serving very
of serving very old
old wines wines of
and wines
wines and of quaffing straight from
quaffing straight the bottle.
from the bottle.
growths out
great growths
great out of of wicker cradles is
wicker cradles is not approved by
not approved by
gastronomes;
gastronomes; these should be
these should decanted into
be decanted carafes for
into carafes for BOUCHE DU
BOUCIIE ROI -- Term
DU ROI used under
Tenn used the old
un der the régime to
old r6gime to
serving.
serving. describe the
describe service which
the service dealt with
which dealt with the kitchens of
the kitchens of the
the
Contents of bottles in
of bottles The law
France -- The
in France law ofof January
January 1930,
1930, royal household. These
royal household. These services, under certain
services, under kings,,at
certain kings, at
Contenb
states:
states: employed over
times employed
times over 500 people (most
500 people of whom
(most of worked for
whom worked for
Article l.1. Under
Article Under the conditions of
the conditions Article 22 given
of Article below, it
given below, it only months in
six months
only six the year).
in the They were
year). They were exclusively con-
exclusively con-
is forbiddèn to
is forbiddOn to put
put on sale or
on sale or to
to sell wines other
sell wines other than
than cerned with
cerned with the king's table and were distinct from
the king's table and were distinct from the the
common which catered
service, which for the
the officers certain
and certain
officers and
sparkling imported in
wines imported
wines, wines
sparkling wines, bottles and wines in-
in bottles in- common service, catered for
tended for
tended export, wines
for export, imported in
wines imported bottles and
in bottles and wines
wines members of
members of the royal household.
the royal household.
intended for
intended export, in
for export, in bottles other than:
bottles other than: Bouche &t roi
Bouche du roi included
included dealing with food
dealing with food supplies, the
supplies, the
pantler's
pantler's office and the royal butler's
the royal office. The
butler's office. pantler's
The pantler's
l.1. Bottles
BottIes known
known as as bordelaise, bourguignonne andmdcon-
bordelaise, bourguignonne and mâcon- office and
naise, the type
naise, which are indicated in
capacity of which'
type and capacity in the omce nad
office had charge of everything
charge of everything concemed with the
concerned with king's
the king's
table appended
table appended in in the
the law passed on I13-
law passed 1866, concerning
3 June 1866, tableware, bread, and accessories
bread, and accessories ofof the
the table. There were
table. There were
trade usages;
usages; thirteen heads of
thirteen heads of service, four assistants,
service, four one keeper
assistants, one keeper of of
trade
BottIes which correspond to the following characteris-
2. Bottles one sommier,
table-service, one
table-service, sommier, one one washer-up,
washer-up, and and several
several
2.
tics:
tics: boys who assisted
boys who the officials
assisted the in charge
officials in charge ofof these various
these various
Type (cl.)
Capacity (cl.) posts.
posts.
Double litre
Double litre 200
200 The butler's
The office was
butler's office mainly concemed
was mainly concerned with with the
the
Litre 100 beverages served
beverages served to to the king, and
the king, consisted of
and consisted ofthirteen heads
thirteen heads
Demi-litre 50 of service,
of five assistants
service, five assistants and and fourfotn sommiers,
sommiers, who who directed
directed
Sain t -Galmier
Saint-Galmier 90 the convoys of
the convoys of pack
pack animaIs carrying baggage
animals carrying whenever
baggage whenever
Anjou 75 king travelled,
the king
the travelled, or or was
was at war. The
at war. The butler loaf
carried aa loaf
butler carried
Demi-Anjou
Demi-Anjou 37'5
37·5 of bread,
of bread, two two bottles
bottles of of wine,
wine, two two bottles
bottles ofof water,
water, two
two
d'Anjou or napkins and and sorne
some ice for the
ice for king's canteen,
the king's canteen' to Majesty's
His Majesty's
to His
Fillette d'Anjou
Fillette de Touraine
Touraine 35 clolet early
closet early every morning. The
every moming. The canteen containd an
canteen contained an
Rhine wine 72
72 emergency stock
emergency stock of of beverages
beverages should should the king require
the king require aa
drink while
drink while he he waswas in in rus
his closet.
closet. TheseThese beverages were
beverages were
The
The capacity
capacity indicated
indicated above
above is is that
that of of aa receptacle
receptacle
first by
tasted first
tasted by anan officer
officer ofof the royal butler's
the royal office.
butler's office.
measured
measuredit at neck rim at aa temperature of of 15°C. (59'F.). This
l5oC. (59°F.). This included equerries, master
equerries, master
The staff
The for the
staff for the royal kitchens included
royal kitchens
ca paci ty has
capacity has aa tolerance
tolerance ofof22 per cent.
cent. cooks,
cook cooks in
s, cooks in charge
charge of of roasting, pastry-
soup-cooks, pastry-
roasting, soup-cooks,
Article
Article 2. 2. It will not
It will not be permitted to
be permitted to use
use bottles
bottles the
the
cooks, and
cooks, and three galopins or
three galopins or kitchen errand boys,
kitchen errand who were
boys, who were
appearance
appearance of of which
which answers
answers the the description
description givengiven inin
commis of
the commis
the of the kitchens of
the kitchens of those days.
those days.
Article 1I which have have not
not the minimum legal
the minimum capacity, unless
legal capacity, unless
also water-carriers, armchair-
fuel-carriers, annchair-
water-carriers, fuel-carriers,
There were
There were also
these bottles bear aa label
these bottles label indicating their capacity.
indicating their capacity'
carriers, ushers,
carriers, sommiers, heralds,
ushers, sommiers, valetsof
heralds, valets sert-d'eou,and
of sert-d'eau, and
In the
In the case where, in
case where, in accordance
accordance with with the the preceding
preceding
four washers-up.
four washers-up.
paragraph, aa label label isis used,
used, this
this should bear, in
should bear, in addition
addition toto queen, the
The queen, dauphin and
the dauphin thedauphine
and the dauphine ail all had
hadtheir
their
The
the indication
the indication of of the
the minimum
minimum capacity,
capacity, the indication of
the indication of kitchen services,
separate kitchen bringingthe
services, bringing the total servants totoaa
ofservants
total of
separate
the
the degree
degree ofof a1cohol contained in
alcohol contained in the
the wine, where such
wine, where such
very great
very number. The
great number. The officiaIs of the
officials of royal household
theroyal householdwere were
indication
indication isis compulsory.
compulsory. until the endof of the of
reign of
thereign
all members
ail membersof of the aristocracy until
thearistocracy theend
Article
Article 3.3. The
The conditions
conditions laid down in
laid down in this
this decree
decree are not
are not for the royalservice were bought
bought
XIV, and
Louis XIV,
Louis suppliesfor
and supplies the royal service were
applicable
applicable to: to: fiscal laws whichcame
lawswhich came
byby these gentlemen. But
these gentlemen. But the
thesevere
severefiscal
1.l. Bottlescontaining
Bottles containing wines wines made
made before
before the publication
the publication prohibitivelyexpensive, andaristocrats
inin made
madesupplies
supplies prohibitively expensive,and aristocrats
of
of this
this decree
decree andand put into the
put into the above-ementioned
above-ementioned bottles bottles
nonolonger
longer sought
sought these positions of
these positions ofhigh
high office. Instead,the
office'Instead, the
before
before the said publication;
the said publication; passed on ontotorich
richburghers,
burghers, who whopaid paidaahighhigh
were passed
duties were
duties
2.2. Receptacles
Receptacles other other than
than bottles,
bottles, such
suchas ascarafes, cellar-
carafes, cellar-
price obtainthem.
price totoobtain them.
jugs, pitchers,
jugs, etc., inin which
pitchers, etc., which wines
wines areare served
served forfor con-
con-
sumption
sumption on on the
the premises.
premises.
BOTULISM.
BOTLJLISM. BOTULISMEBoruL,IsME - - Serious infection caused
Serious infection causedby by
anaerobic
anaerobic bacteria
bacteria (the(the organism involved isisClostridium
organisminvolved Clostridium
botulinum) which develop
botulinum)which develop inincanned
canned meat,
meat, fish
fishor
orvegetables;
vegetables;
both
both home
homeand and factory canned. ItIt differs
factorycanned. from ptomaine
differsfrom ptomaine
poisoninginin that
poisoning that the
the substances
substances affected
affected bybythe
thebotulism
botulism
bacillus
bacillus (ham,
(ham, porkpork produce
produce andand other
othercanned
cannedfood)
food)show
show
no
no signs
signs of
of putrefaction,
putrefaction, although
althoughatattimes
timestheytheydodohave
haveaa
peculiar sour
peculiar soursmel!'
smell.
To avoid
To avoid the the occurrence
occurrenceof of botulism
botulism only onlyproperly
properly
sterilised
sterilisedcanned
cannedfoodsfoodsmust musthebeused.used.Vacuum,
Vacuurn, eveven
en aa
perfect one,isisnot
perfectone, notaasufficient
sumcientguarantee,
guarantee, because
because anaerobes
anaerobes
develop evenininthe
develop even theabsence
absence of ofoxygen.
oxygen'Food Foodpickled
pickledinin
chlorine containatatleast
should contain
chlorine should least1010per centofofsodium
percent sodium
chloride.
chloride.Ifvinegar
If vinegar isisused
usedfor
forpickling,
pickling,its
itsacetic
aceticacid
acidcontent
content
should
shouldbe bemore
morethanthan22 perpercent.
cent.
Ali
Allsuspect
suspectcanned
canned foods
foodsandandthose
thosehaving
havinga arancid
rancidsmell
smell Members roiroi
Bouchedudu
MembersofofthetheBouche

137
137
 BOUCHEES
BOUCHÉES
BOUCI{EES - Name given to little patties made of puff Puisles poissonsnourris
lespoissons nourrisassez
BOUCHÉES loindedelalarade,
assezloin rade,
pastry baked -blind Name given to little patties made of puff
(empty) and filled with various mixtures.
Puis
Danslelecreux
pastry baked blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. Dans cranxdes rdcifs:lelebeau
desrécifs: rouget,l'orade,
beaurouget, 1'0 rade.
It is said that these bouchCes were invented by Marie pageldélicat,
Lepagel delicat,leIesaint-pierre
saint-pierreodorant.
odorant,
It is said that these bouchées
Leczinska, who, being very fondwere invented by Marie Le
of her food, .adored' the Gibierdedemer
mersuivi parleleloup
suivipar divorant,
loupdévorant,
Leczinska, who, being very fond of her food, 'adored' the Gibier
vol-au-vent, and decided to eat it regularly. So the small, Enfin,la galinette,avec
avecses yeuxdedehogues,
bogues,
vol-au-vent, and decided to eat il regularly. 50 the small,
individual vol-au-vent Enfin, la galine/le, sesyeux

was created - -the 'bouchée àdlatareine'.

was created the 'bouchie reine,. Etd'autres.
d'autres,oubliés parles
oublidspar ichthyologues
lesichthyologues
Recipes vol-au-vent
individual for the preparation of puffpastry bouchies will be
Et
-found
Recipes for the preparation
under HORS-D'(EUVRE. of puff pastry bouchées will be Fins poissonsque
Finspoissons queNeplune,
Neptune, aux auxfeux
feuxd'und'unciel
cielardent,
ardent,
found under HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Choisitàdlalafourchette
Choisit jamaisau
fourcherte etetjamais autrident.
trident.
BOUDY - Good-looking apples which are rather mediocre
BOUDY
in taste. -TheyGood-looking apples which are rather mediocre Hearken toto me, oldcooks
me,old cooksand and new
are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, Hearken new
inbut taste. They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets,
they can also All those who make
those who makelobsters
lobstersout outof ofprawns
prawns
be cooked. Ali
but they can also be cooked. And think
think that
thatone can,Chez
onecan, potelor
BOUFFOIR - Bellows which butchers use to force air under And Chez Potel orChabot,
Chabot.
BOUFFOIR Translate my mydish into slices
dish into slicesof of turbot.
turbot.
the skin and -into Bellows which butchers use to force air under
the cellular tissues of carcases.
Translate
hour has
The hour hascome
the skin and into the cellular tissues of carcases. Tbe come at atlast,
last, when
whenour ourcapital
capital
BOUGRAS (P6rigord cookery) Soup prepared Can add
add oriental
oriental dishes
dishes toto her
her banquets
banquets
BOUGRAS (Périgord cookery) -- Soup prepared from from Can
leeks, onions and potatoes, using waier in which And give
And givethe gourmands in
the gourmands in aa restaurant
restaurant
91bbage, leeks,
cabbage, onions and potatoes, using water in which
black puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much AA real
real MarseiJles
Marseilles ragoûl,
ragofit, and
and notnot aa lying
lying dish.
dish.
black puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much
appreciated in Pdrigord, is made at Shrovetide, when pigs
appreciated
are slaughtered in Périgord, is made atp6rigord Shrovetide, when pigs For this
this Phocaean
Phocaean dish, dish, accomplished
accomplished without
and the delicious black puddinls For without fault,
fault,
are slaughtered
are made. Here and the delicious Périgord black puddings all, isis indispensable
Above al!, indispensable the the rascasse,
is the recipe: Above rascasse,
areBring
made.about Here is the recipe: 'Tis lrue,
true, aa very
very common
2 litres (3f pints, 4] pints) water to the boil 'Tis common fish. fish.
andBring
put about
into it2 thelitres (3t pints, 4-i pints) water to the boil Served on grill alone,
on aa grill alone, ilit does
sliced, blanched heart of a curly green Served not find
does not find favour,
favour,
and put into
cabbage, carrots, sliced,
it the blanched heart of a curly green in aa bouillabaisse
But in bouillabaisse itit does
turnips, leeks, celery and quartered But does exude
exude
cabbage,
olrions. Simmercarrots, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered A marvellous
marvellous aroma aroma on on which
which success
slowly for 40 minutes. Add 2 large sliced A depends.
success depends.
(Jnions.
potatoes, and continue cooking minutes.
Simmer slowly for 40 Add 2 large sliced The rascasse
rascasse feeds
feeds inin crevasses,
crevasses, in in qquicksinds,
for a further 35 minutes. The uicksands,
potatoes,
Aboutand 15 continue cooking for a further 35 minutes.
minutes before serving, drain some of the In bays
ln bays shaded
shaded with with laurel
laurel and myrtle bushes
and myrtle bushes
About 15 minutes before serving, drain some of the
vegetables, Or around
around rocks
rocks covered
covered withwith f10wering
flowering thyme.
cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with flour Or thyme.
vcgelables, cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with
and a little stock, f10ur
and add to the soup. (This is calledfricassde
and
in P6rigord andis and
a little stock, add to tbe soup. (This is calledfricassée Then the
the fish
fish which
which feed
feed away from the
away from the roads,
added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and Then
in Périgord
pour into a and is added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and Among the the reefs:
reefs: the
the beauliful
beautiful red mullet and
red mullet and orades,
tureen over thin slices of bread. Among orades.
pour into a tureen over thin slices ofbread. The delicate
delicate sea bream, the
sea brearn, the sweet-smelling
sweet-smelling saint-pierre,
BOUILLABAISSE The
BOUILLABAISSE
This Mediterranean
- This Mediterranean speciality
-- speciality is
is game escaping
Sea game
Sea from the
escaping from devouring sea
the devouring sei perch,
perch,
prepared all along the south coast of Francs from Cap And
prepared ail along the south coast of France
Cebbre to Menton, each having its special flavour ani from Cap And finally,
finally, the galinette, with
the galinette, with its
its boops'eyes,
boops' eyes,
Cebère to Menton, each having ilS special flavour and And others, forgotten
And others, forgotten byby the
the ichthyologists,
ichthyologists,
recipe. Connoisseurs consider that only authentic
recipe. Connoisseurs
bouillabaisse is to be found consider that thethe only authentic Fine fish,
Fine fish, that Neptune, in
that Neptune, of a blazing sky,
the fire of
in the
in the region between Marseilles
bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between
and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton Marseilles Spikes
Spikes onon aa fork, and never
fork, and never on a trident.
and
a Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton come
close come
second. In
a close
Legendsecond. ln some
some regions,
regions, notably
notably in
in Perpignan,
Perpignan, potatoes are added
potatoes are added
attributes the invention of this dish to Venus, who, to
is said,attributcs
it Legend preparedthe to bouillabaissq
bouillabaisse, and
and often
often the saffru<i is
the saffrori is omitted, which
it is said,gives
it invention ofthis dish to Venus, who,
for her husband, Vulcan. Méry,
prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. M6ry, brings
brings thisthis soup nearer to
soup nearer to the
omittcd,
chaudrée (q.v.)
the chaudrde (g.v.) or the
which
the cotriade
cOlriade
however, the credit to the abbess of a Marseillis
however,
convent: gives the credit to the abbess of a Marseilles (g.v.). At
(q.v.). Sète aa garlic-flavoured
At Sbte garlic-ftavoured fish fish soup
soup is is made
made which
which isis
convent: somewhat
somewhal similarsimilar to the Flemish
10 the walerzoolje (q.v.).
Flernish waterzootje (q.v.).
'Pour le vendredi maigre,unjour, certaine abbesse Ingredients
Ingredients for for bouillabaisse
bouillabaisse -.. The The Provence
Provence botuillabaisse,
bouillabaisse,
'Pour le vendredi maigre. un jour. certaine abbesse
D'un couvent or, more correctly,
or, more correctly, the the Marseilles
Marseilles bouillabaisse, made of
bouillabaisse, isis made ofthe
the
marseillais cria Ia bouille-abaisse.,
D'un couvent marseillais créa la bouille-abaisse.' following
following fish: rascasse, chapon,
fish: rascasse, saint-pierre, conger
chapon, saint-pierre, conger eel,eel,
'f9r u Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess lophius
lophius (angler
(angler fish), red mullet,
fish), red mullet, rouquier,
rouquier, whiting,
whiting, sei sea perch,
perch,
'For
Of a aMarseilles
Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess
nunnery created the spiny
Of a Marseilles nunnery created the blouillabaisse.,
bouillabaisse.' spinylobster,
lobster, crabs
crabs and and other sbellfish. (Many
otbershellfish. (Manyof the fish
ofthe fish used
used
He then goes on to say what a rcal bouillabarse is like. and for
for bouillabadsse,
bouillabaisse, such such as the traditional
as the rascasse, are
traditional rascasse, are not
not
He then goes on to say what a reaJ bouillabaisse is Iike, and
what fish should go into the making of it: found except in
found except in the
the Mediterranean.
Mediterranean. These These are are virtually
virtually
what fish should go into the making of it: unknown in
unknown in England
England and and America
America but but gurnet,
gurnet, mackerel,
mackerd,
Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, srnall turbot,
small turbot, fresh
fresh tunny,
tunny, perch,
perch, pike,
pike, grayling,
grayling, trout,
trout, eel-
eel-
Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, pout
Qui faites des homards avec des icrevisses, poutandandvarious
variousrockrockfishfish can
canbe substitutedififnecessary.)
besubstituted necessary.)
Quifaites desqu'on
homardç avec des écrevisses, All
Et qui croyez peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, these fish
Ail these lish should
should be eut into
becut into uniform-sized
uniform-sized piecei.
pieces. To To
Et qui croyez plat
qu'on peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, make
Traduire mon grec en tranches de turbot. makeenough bouillabaissefor
enoughbouillabaisse for 88toto l0 personsyou
10persons you will
will need
need
Traduireestmon plat grec en tranches de turbot. about
I'heure enfin vmue oit notre capitale about33kg. kg.(6+lb.)
(6i-lb.)fishfishand
andshellfish.
shellfish.
L'heure est enfin venue où notre capitale
Pant joindre d ses banquets Ia table orientale, Put
Put200200g.Q oz., l|licups)
g. (7 oz., cups)chopped
chopped onions,
onions,33largelargeseeded
seeded
Peut joindre à ses banquets la table orientale,
Et donner arx gourmands, chez le restaurateur, and chopped
and chopped tomatoes,tomatoes, 44 pounded
pounded garlic c1oves, i a sprig
garlic cloves, sprig ofof
El ragoitt
donner marseillais
aux gourmands, chez le restauraleur,
Un et non un plat mmteur. fenne!and
-fenlel sprigsofofbruised
and33sprigs bruisedparsley,
parsley,aasprig
sprigofofthyme,
thyme,aabay bay
Un ragoût marseillais et non un plat menteur. leaf
) ce plat phocien, accompli sans difaut,
leafandand aa pieoe
piece of ofdrydry orange
orange peelpeel into
into aa large-casserole.
large casserole.
À ce plat phocéen, accompli sans défaut, AddAddthe theshellfish,
shellfish,thenthenthethefirm-fleshed
firm-fleshedfish. fish.
Indispensablement, mAme avant tout, ilfaut
lndüpensablement.
La rascasse, poisson,même avant tout, ilfaut Sprinkle
Sprinklewith with22dl. dl.($(tpint, seantcup)
pint,scant oliveoil
cup)olive oiland
andseason
season
certes, des plus vulgaires. with
La
IsolC wr un gril, on ne certes,
rascasse, poisson, des plus vulgaires. with salt
saltand freshly ground
and freshly groundpepper.
pepper. Add Add aagood pinch of
goodpinch of
I'estime guire, powdered
Isolé dans
Mais sur un gril, on ne l'estime guère, powdered saffronsaffron and enough water
and enough water to to cover
coyer the the fish
fish
la bouillabaisse aussitbt il rdpand completely.
DeMais {kms la bouillabaisse aussitôt il répand
merveilleux parfums d'oil Ie succis ddpend.
cornpletely.
Derascasse,
merveilleux parfums d'où le succès dépend. Boil
Boilbriskly,
briskly,withwithaalid on,for
lidon, for77toto88minutes.
minutes.Then Thenadd add
La nouruie aux crevasses des syrtes, the
La rascasse, nourrie aux crevasses des syrtes, fishwith
thefish withdelicate
delicateflesh, suchasaswhiting
flesh,such whitingand andredredmullet,
mullet,
Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes,
OuDans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes,
devant un rocher garni de fleurs de thym.
andandcook together.Total
cooktogether. Totalcooking
cookingtime timeofofbouillabar'sse
bouillabaissedoes does
Ou devant un rocher garni defleurs de thym. not exceed1414toto1515minutes.
notexceed minutes.
138
138
 BOUILLABAISSE
BOUILLABAISSE

for bouillabaisse
lngredients for
Ingredients (Scarnati)
bouillabaisse (Scarnali)

over slices of bread,

bread, andand serve with the
serve with the cloves, 22 celery
celery stalks, peeled and
stalks, 44 peeled chopped tomatoes and a
and chopped
Strain the
Strain the soup
soup over slices of cloves, tornatoes and a
and shellfish.
fish and
fish Sprinkle soup
shellfish. Sprinkle soup andand fish with chopped
fish with chopped pinch of
pinch of saffron.
saffron.
parsley. In
parsley. In Marseilles, bread, called
special bread,
Marseilles, special marette, isis used
called marelle, used Cut into
Cut into slices whitings, 1I conger
slices 44 whitings, conger eel, eel, 3 red mullets'
3 red mullets,
3 mackerels. a few fresh sardines, 2 small lobsters or 2
for this
for purpose.
this purpose. 3 mackerels, a few fresh sardines, 2 small lobsters or 2
To make
To make good good bouillabaisse,
bouillabaisse, one of the
one of points isis
essential points
the essential crabs, and some Dublin Bay
crabs, and sorne Dublin Bay prawns, cut into chunks.
prawns, cut into chunks'
in the
the soup Season with with salt, pepper and
salt, pepper and aa little cayenne pepper and add
little cayenne
cook itit as
to cook
to quickly as
as quickly possible, which
as possible, results in
which results soup Season pepper and add
enough dry dry white
white winewine and water to
and water to cover
cover thethe fish.
having the
having right consistency.
the right consistency. enough fish.
Originally aa fisherman's
Originally fisherman's dish, dish, bouillabaisse
bouillabaisse ought ought notnot toto Separately, cook I litre (lf pints, generous quart) mussels
Separately, cook 1 litre (lt pints, generous quart) mussels
cuts ofof fish.
fish. when done,
and, when discard the
done,discard shells and
the shells and add the mussels, and
lobster, only
contain lobster,
contain only the
the cheaper
cheaper cuts and, add the mussels, and
cookery) -- This
(Provengal cookery)
borgne (Provençal This bouilla-
bouilla- liquor they
the liquor
the they were cooked in,
were cooked in, toto the
the fish. Bring toto the
fish'Bring the boil
boil
Bouillabaisse
Bouillabaisse borgne
baisse isis called
baisse l'aigo'sau-d ion inin Provence.
called l'aigo-sau-d'iou Provence. andsirnrner
and gently for
simmer gently for30 minutes.
30minutes.
Fry slices of bread goldenbrown.
until golden
bread until brown' StraÏnStrain thethe fish and
Cook sliced
Cook sliced potatoes slowly inin fish
potatoes slowly fish stock prepared as
stock prepared as Fry slices of fish and
Bouillabaisse àd lala parisienne pour the liquor over
the liquor over the fried bread.
thefried Arrangethe
bread- Arrange the fish on a
described
described in in the recipe for
the recipe for Bouillabaisse parisienne pour
time the
fish on a
soup.
(see
(see below). When the potatoesare
the potatoes done, poach
are done, poachfresh
fresheggs,
eggs, separate
separate dish and at the same
dishand serve at the same tirne as the soup.
serve as
below). When -Bouillabaisse
150 g. (5 oz',,
one
oneby by one,
one,in in the taking care
stock, taking
thestock, not to
careDot tobreak them.
break them. Bouillabaisse ài lalaparisienne
parisienne - - Fry Fry briskly
briskly150 g. (5 oz.,
of bread, lf cups) chopped onion and 75 g. (3 oz-, * cup) chopped'
Pour the
Pour thesoupsoupintointo aa tureen
tureenoverover slices
slicesof bread,andand I-!- cups) chopped on ion and 75 g. (3 oz., t cup) chopped
(usingonly parts)ininI-tl+dl.
white parts) pint, I cup) oil,
dl.(t$ pint,
arrange
arrange the potatoesand
the potatoes and the poached eggs
the poached eggson another dish.
onanother dish. leeks(using
leeks only the
thewhite
colour.MoistenMoisten with with66dl.
tdl.cup) oil,
(1 pint'
Sprinkle
Sprinkle with parsleyand
with parsley andserve thetwo
serve the dishes atatthe
two dishes thesame
same without allowing
without all,owing themthemtotocolour. (1 pint,
time.
time. 212| cups) wine, and
white wine,
cups) white add 1 litre (lf
andadd 1 litre (lt pints, generous pints' generous
MoRUE - - Prepared
Preparedasas quartf water.
water.AddAddtotothis thisstock peeled, seeded and chopped
stock44peeled,
Cod
Cod bouillabaisse. BouILLABAIssE DE
bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE DEMORUE quart) seeded and chopped
parisienne (see
Bouillabaisse àhlalaparisienne
Bouillabaisse (sebelow),
below),this thisisisaastew rather
stewrather tomatoes, 44crushed
tomatoes, crushedgarlic oves, aasprig
garlicclcloves, sprigofofthymethymeand andaa
preparation, see COD. bayleaf. Season with salt, pepper and aagood
leaf. Season with salt, pepper and goodpinch pinch of
than
thanaasoup.
soup.For method ofofpreparation,
For method seeCOD. bay of
DEL'OCÉAN
I'oc6AN - powdered saffron.saffron.Add Addtotothis stockany
thisstock heads and trimmings
anyheads
Ocean bouillabaisse.
Ocean bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE
BouILLABAISSE DE powdered and trimmings
for
Althoughthe
Although thebouillabaisse essentially aaMediterranean
bouillabafsseisisessentially Mediterranean ofbffish
n.nintended
intendedfor foranother
anotherdish. dish.Cook briskly for 2020
Cookbriskly
dish, kindofofbouillabaisse
dish,aakind bouillabaisse isismademadeon onthe Atlantic coast.
theAtlantic coast' minutes and pass through
minutes and pass through a fine strainer. a fine strainer.
Fry55big
Fry choppedon
bigchopped onions,
ions, 500 (generous 1Ilb.)
500g.g.(generous potatoes
lb.)potatoes Cutup
Cut gurnet,red
upgurnet, redmullet, whiting,conger
mullet,whiting, congereel, weever,
eel,weever,
intoslices,
cutinto
cut slices,andand44chopped
choppedleeks tablespoonsü(jcup)
leeksinin66tablespoons cup) andspiny
and lobsterinto
spinylobster intochunks,
chunks,and andlay laythem
themfiatflatinina adeep
deep

oiland
oil and33tablespoons
tablespoons (scant (scantt * cup)cup)butter.
butter.Add Adda alittle
little pan.Place
pan. Placemussels,
mussels,weil wellwashed,
washed,on ontop,top,season
seasonwith withsalt
salt
fennel,a abay
andfennel, bayleaf, cloves,44garlic
leaf,44c1oves, garlic pepperand
andpepper andsprinkle
sprinklewith withchopped
choppedparsley parsley and oil.
thyme,savory
thyme, savoryand and and oil.

139
139
 BOUILLANT
BOUILLANT

Cookbriskly
Cook brisklyfor for1515minutes.
minutes.Add Add33tablespoons
tablespoons(seant!
(scant I turnips, leeks, parsnips,onion,
turnips, onion,celery, celery,garlic,garlic,c1oves.
cloves.
cup)kneaded
kneaded butter.
butter. ToToclarify
clarify bouillon, whisk750 750g.g.(li (lf lb.) lb.)lean
leanmeat,
meat,22leeks leeks
Arrange the fishinrnaatimbale
thefish timbale(q.v.). pourthe
(q.v.).Pour thesoupsoupintointo cutcutup upinto
intosmall
smalldice,
dice,andandaafreshfreshegg eggwhite whiteininaadeep deeppan. pan.
another timbale
another timbaleover grilledslices
overgril1ed slicesofofbread.
bread. AddA.dd2t litres(41
2+litres pints,5t5{pints)
(4|pints, pints)lukewann
hk;warmbouillon. bouillon. Con-Con-
Sardine booillaooisse
Sardine bouillabaisse. BourLLABArssE DE
..BOUlLLABAlSSE SARDTNEs - _ Frv
DESARDINES tinue
tinuetotowhisk
whiskthe thecontents
contents of ofthe
the panuntil untilititboils.
boils.Lower
Lowerthe the
1Ichoppcd
choppedon onion
ion and 2leeksininoil.
and2leeks Addaapeeled,
oil.Add peeled,seeded
seeded and heat
heatandandsimmer
simmerfor forI!lj hours.
hours. Strain through through aaclotho cloth.
chopped_tomato, poundedgarlic
tomato, 22pounded oves, 1Ibay
garlicclcloves, leaf,JIsprig
bayleaf, sprig Bouillon dedeDOce
Bouillon (weddiry sonp)
noce(wedding soup) (périgord
@6rigord cookery)cookery).--
of fennel and andaasmallsmallpiece
pieceof oforange
orange peel.Moisten
Moisten with *iti' This Périgord
Thi-s P€rigord clear clearsoup
soup Îsis reallyaaversion version of ofollapodrida
oilapodrida
pints, lilt pints)
I litre (l$ pints, pints) water.
water.Season
Seasoi withsalt, pepper and
salt, pepper and (q.v.).Four
(q.v.). Four kil1ds
kinds of of meat
meatare are used: . beef,beef,aaveal vealknuckle,
knuckle, aa
a pinch of ofsaffron.
saffron. AddAdd66sliced potatoes,and
sliced potatoes, cookwith
andcook with the the sluffed
stuffed chicken
chickenand andaaturkey.
turkey.
lidOnon the pan.
thepan. All these
Ali these are cooked ininstock
arecooked stock tlavoured
flavoured with withvegetables,
vegetables,
When the potatoes are nearly done,arrange arrange 1I kg. (2+lb.)
kg.(2-1- lb.)
-When the potatoes are nearly done, together
together with withSwiss
Swiss chard.
chard. Add Add onion,onion, frie<.!fried inin lard
lard until
until
cleaned, scaled
cJeaned, scaled andand washed
washed freshfreshsardines
sardines-on
On them,
t[em,- andani golden, and
golden, andvermicelli.
vermicelli.
cook for
cook for 88 minutes.
minutes. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with parsley
parsley andand serve
serve Cere
Cerealal bouillons.
bouillons BOUILLONS
BourLLoNs DE pnCÉRÉALES
cfnf,c,rEs - - These These are are rich
rich
separately. Strairi
Strairi the bouillabaisseover
the bouillabaisse over slices of bread
slices of laid
bread laid inin assimilable
assimilable mineraimineral substances
substances and and soluble
soluble nutritive
nutritive
in a deep dish.
Spinact bouillabaisse
bouilta6giou (Provençal
matter which,
matter which, beingbeing responsible
responsible for for giving vegetablevegetable
cookery). BOUILLABAISSE
@rovengalcookery). BourLLABArssE embryo
eqlbryo the the nutriment
nutriment necessary
necessary for for growth, have a heneficial beneficial
o'fprNARos -- Here Here isis aa recipe contributed
contributed by by the
the great
great effect
effect on on growing children.
D'ÉPINARDS children. BoilBoil