Colorants for Cosmetic Products

Cosmetic regulations in Europe, Japan, Organic Colorants Selecting Colorants Based on Regulations
and the US do not contain lists of Indigoid Group: e.g. D&C Red 30 There are many factors that determine the
Xanthene Group: e.g. D&C Yellow 7 & appropriate colorant choice. Pay attention to
approved cosmetic ingredients except for
D&C Yellow 8 the following before using a colorant:
preservatives, certain active ingredients,
Azo Group: e.g. D&C Red 36, D&C Red • Products that do not come into contact
and colorants. For all other cosmetic
17, D&C Orange 4 with mucous membranes or the eye area
ingredients the regulations allow for
Nitro Group: Ext. D&C Yellow 7 (only one) (e.g. shampoo, conditioner, hand cream):
usage as long as the safety of the final
Triphentlmethane Group: FD&C Blue 1, use FD&C, D&C or Ext. D&C colors
cosmetic has been substantiated.
FD&C Green 3 • Products that are used around the mouth
Currently, the FDA has approved 64 color addi-
Quinoline Group: D&C Yellow 10 & (e.g. face cream, lipstick): use FD&C or
tives for cosmetic use either with or without
D&C Yellow 11 specifically approved D&C colors
batch certification. It is notable that the
Anthraquinone Group: D&C Green 6, D&C • Products that are used around the eye
regulations vary from region to region. For Violet 2 (e.g. mascara, eye shadow): use only inor-
example micas, which are on the approval list of
ganic or natural colors or specifically ap-
the FDA, are not considered a colorant in
proved organic colors (e.g. FD&C Yellow
Europe or Japan. Also, regulations are specific Inorganic Colorants 5). Some natural colors that are not
to the type of cosmetic a colorant may be used Inorganic colorants are composed of insoluble allowed like henna, silver, or lead acetate.
in. Aluminum colorants, for example, are ap- metallic compounds which are either derived
proved in the US, Europe and Japan as a cos- from natural sources (e.g. china clay, carbon Selecting Colorants Based on Formulation
metic colorant for all cosmetic applications ex- deposits) or are synthesized. Inorganic colors Color selection depends also on the properties
cept for lip products in the US. Further, ferric do not have the same kinds of health risks as of a formulation. As a rule of thumb:
ferrocyanide may be used in externally applied organic colors and, therefore do not require • Liquid products (e.g. shampoo, lotion):
cosmetics in the US, while the EU and Japan certification. Unfortunately, inorganic colorants use water-soluble D&C or FD&C colors.
also allow for lip area use. Due to these com- are not available in the range of shades that the • Solid products (e.g. powders): use
plexities, it is wise that appropriate use of each organic offers, and they are not water soluble inorganic or insoluble organic colors
colorant be confirmed against each region's which limits their range of applications. Below is (Lakes). Keep in mind that the same
current cosmetic regulations. a list of the different groups of inorganic amount of a specific colorant may give a
different shade in a different formulation.
colorants (suppliers offer various shades)
Organic Colorants
Colorants are classified as either organic or
inorganic depending on the chemistry. Organic
colors were originally called ,,coal tar“ or ,,ani- Inorganic Colorants & Their Use in Cosmetics
lines“ because they were derived from coal FDA EU Color Japan Lip- Face Nail Eye
sources. However, nowadays almost all organic Name Index No. Name sticks Makeup Lacquers Makeup
colorants are synthetic and are available as Iron Oxide Black 77499 Iron Oxide S M NR M
either water soluble, oil soluble or insoluble Iron Oxide Red 77491 Iron Oxide S S S M
Iron Oxide Orange 77491/2 Iron Oxide S M NR M
(=Lakes) agents in all kinds of shades. In the US Iron Oxide Yellow 77492 Iron Oxide S M NR M
approved organic colors are designated as Iron Oxide Brown 77491 Iron Oxide S M NR M
FD&C, D&C or Ext. D&C. This means: Chrome Oxide Green 77288 Anhydrous X NR NR M
• FD&C: certified for use in food, drugs & Chrome Oxide
• cosmetics Ultramarine Blue 77007 Ultramarine X S NR M
Ultramarine Pink 77007 Ultramarine X S NR M
• D&C: certified for use in drugs & Ultramarine Violet 77007 Ultramarine X S NR M
cosmetics including in those in contact Manganese Violet 77742 Manganese S NR NR M
with mucous membranes and those that Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Ferric X NR S M
are ingested External D&C: certified for (Iron Blues) Ferrocyanide
Source: Whittaker,
use in drugs & cosmetics that do not
Key: S=Some Use, M=Major Use, NR=Not Recommended, X=Prohibited in US Clark & Daniels
come in contact with mucous mem-
branes or those that are ingested. Natural Colorants Since colorants are extremely effective, only
In Europe and Japan color index numbers are In addition to the inorganic colors, there are minute amounts are necessary to color a cos-
employed for identification of organic colors. other colorants that may be used in cosmetics metic product. For example, to color a sham-
The following list shows examples of the seven that are exempt from certification. These are poo only 0.00001% dye is necessary! - There-
typically natural materials like: fore, colorants should be used in dilute stock
• Caramel coloring and Carrot oil solutions (such as 0.1%)..
• Beet extract
• Henna
• Fruit & vegetable juices

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