COMMON COMPETENCY

Unit of Competency: Apply appropriate sealant/ adhesive

Module Title: Applying Appropriate Sealant/ Adhesive

Module Content:
1.1.1 Use of sealant and adhesive
1.1.2 Types and classification of sealant and adhesives
1.1.3 Types of surface material and appropriate sealant/ adhesive to be used.
1.1.4 Techniques and procedures in preparing surfaces for sealant/adhesive.
1.1.5 Tools and materials to be used in applying sealant/adhesive
1.1.6 Techniques in applying sealant/adhesive
1.1.7 Safety requirements in applying sealant/adhesive
1.1.8 Sealant/adhesive storing procedures.
1.1.9 Waste disposal standard procedure
1.1.10 Hazards associated with improper waste disposal

No. of hours: 4 Hours

USE OF SEALANT AND ADHESIVE

Sealant is a substance used to block the passage of fluids through the surface or
joints or openings in materials, a type of mechanical seal. Sealants are not
adhesives but some have adhesive qualities and are called adhesive-sealants or
structural sealants.
Adhesive have more power for holding and bonding, and sealants are great for
air and water tight spaces. You cannot go wrong when you use the product
according to the demand of the surface in which you are
working with. While he two seem to be very similar, and their
distinctions are also quite similar they are different products
entirely.
TYPES AND CLASSIFICATION OF SEALANT AND ADHESIVES

Structural adhesives refer to relatively strong adhesives that are normally used
well below their glass transition temperature, an important property for polymeric
materials, above which polymers are rubbery and below which they are glassy.
Common examples of structural adhesives include epoxies, cyanoacrylates, and
certain urethanes and acrylic adhesives. Such adhesives can carry significant
stresses, and lend themselves to structural applications.
Pressure sensitive adhesives are very low modulus elastomers which deform easily
under small pressures, permitting them to wet surfaces. When the substrate and
adhesive are brought into intimate contact, van der Waals forces are sufficient to
maintain the contact and can provide relatively durable bonds for lightly loaded
applications. Pressure sensitive adhesives are normally purchased as tapes or
labels for non-structural applications, although can also come as double-sided foam
tapes which can be used in semi-structural applications.
TYPES OF SURFACE MATERIAL AND APPROPRIATE SEALANT/ ADHESIVE TO BE
USED

Sealants and adhesives share many characteristics, they are not chemically or
structurally identical and cannot always be used interchangeably. A sealant is
typically a viscous material that becomes solid upon application, where it creates a
barrier. The sealant barrier inhibits the penetration of many different elements,
such as liquid, air, fire, or noise, depending on the exact nature of the sealant. A
sealant is generally used to close gaps that other materials cannot successfully
close. An adhesive is a mixture that bonds items together, and can exist in many
states, such as liquid or powder. It often requires the application of a set
temperature to cure it, and is frequently used to bond thin materials. Some very
strong sealants qualify as adhesives, but weaker sealants primarily fill space, as is
the case with sealant putty.
Sealant and Adhesive Functions
Whereas adhesives’ primary purpose is to bond two objects together, sealants have
different functions. As stated above, they are intended to fill a space between two
objects, not necessarily bond them strongly together. Secondly, sealants are
responsible for creating a barrier, by means of their chemical composition and
physical structure, as well as by properly adhering to the objects surrounding a
space. Thirdly, sealants should maintain these functional properties under the
specified conditions, if they are properly used and maintained. Adhesives, on the
other hand, are not used to fill spaces and are available at much higher strengths.

TECHNIQUES AND PROCEDURES IN PREPARING SURFACES FOR

SEALANT/ADHESIVE

There are five basic steps for proper joint preparation and sealant application:

1. Clean -Joint surfaces must be clean, dry, dust free, and frost free.

2. Prime - If required, primer is applied to the clean surface(s).

3. Pack - Backer rod or bond breaker are applied as required.

4. Seal - Sealant is applied by "pushing the bead" into the joint cavity.
5. Tool-Dry tooling techniques are used to create a flush joint and make certain the sealant
has the proper configuration and fully contacts the joint walls.

SUBSTRATE CLEANING PROCEDURES

This section provides information on cleaning solvents and general cleaning procedures for
porous and non- porous substrates. The key to good sealant adhesion is a clean surface. You
should always check with the supplier of the substrate to ensure that the cleaning
procedures and solvents are compatible with the substrate.

1. Organic Solvent Usage not every contaminant is effectively removed by every solvent,
and some substrates can be seriously damaged by certain solvents. Please follow the solvent
manufacturer's safe handling recommendations and local, state and national regulations
regarding solvent usage. Please Note

That IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) may not remove contaminants from polyester powder coated
aluminum, hence xylene or white spirit is recommended.

2. Non-porous Substrates Non-porous surfaces must be cleaned with a solvent before the
sealant is applied. The solvent used will depend on the type of dirt or oil to be removed and
the substrate to be cleaned. Non-oily dirt and dust can usually be removed with a 50
percent solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and water, pure IPA or methylated spirit. Oily
dirt or films generally require a degreasing solvent such as xylene, or white spirit.

Sealant should be applied as follows:

1. Masking tape should be used to keep excess sealant from contacting adjacent areas
where it is not intended to ensure an aesthetically pleasing job.

2. Apply the sealant in a continuous operation using a caulking gun or pump. A positive
pressure, adequate to fill the entire joint width, should be used. This can be accomplished
by pushing" the sealant ahead of the application nozzle. Care must be taken to ensure
complete fill of the sealant cavity,

3 TOOLING THE SEALANT

1. Tool the sealant with light pressure before a skin begins to form (typically 10 to 20
minutes). Tooling forces the sealant against the back-up material and the joint surfaces. Do
not use liquid tooling aids such as water, soap or alcohols. These materials may interfere
with sealant cure and adhesion and create aesthetic issues.

2. Remove the masking tape before the sealant skins over (within about 15 minutes of
tooling)

TOOLS AND MATERIALS TO BE USED IN APPLYING SEALANT/ADHESIVE

Jus N Tyme JNT-8-RSC-blu sealant scraper is made of blue Acrylic blend plastic.
Acrylic is a harder, sharper plastic good for scraping decals, soft and leathery
sealant and caulking. This scraper has two scraping ends, each having double angle
tips and measures 8” long with 2” and 1” wide tips, 3/16” thickness. This scraper is
identified by its part number and color. Note: Acrylic blend is not chemically
resistant and due to its hardness it can chip easily.

Jus N Tyme JNT-8-RSC-org is made in orange glass filled Nylon plastic to assist in
FOD needs. Nylon is more chemically resistant in using with solvents for scraping
hardened sealant. This scraper has two scraping ends, each having double angle
tips for increased tip toughness and measures 8” long with 2” and 1” wide tips, 3/16”
thickness. This scraper is identified by its part number and color.

Wood glue: Yellow in color, this is designed specifically for bonding sections of wood.
Working time is about 15 minutes. It has a shelf life of about one year.
Contact adhesive (contact cement): A very strong solvent-based adhesive, this can
be used to bond a large range of materials including wood, metal, many plastics and
decorative laminates. It is not suitable for use with some materials, such as
polystyrene and bitumen, or as a mirror adhesive, so check the manufacturer's
instructions before using it.
Construction adhesive: Used to bond surfaces that cannot easily be joined with
screws or nails, or combined with mechanical fasteners to form very strong bonds.
Available in tubes and sealant-like cartridges. Most (especially water-based and
solvent-free types) need at least one of the surfaces being bonded to be porous.
Resin: Made up of two elements that mix once they are dispensed from the
cartridge, resin creates very strong bonds. Where a secure anchoring point for a
wall fixture is required (on shelves, for instance), resin is injected into the hole
before the fixture is inserted.
Expanding foam: Supplied in an aerosol can, this foam is used to fill large gaps,
bonding to their edges.

SAFETY REQUIREMENTS IN APPLYING

SEALANT/ADHESIVE STORING PROCEDURES

Storage
• The storage of adhesives and sealants should be restricted to ‘no smoking’ areas,
as even nonflammable adhesives can emit vapor’s which may be converted to toxic
products by a burning cigarette.
• All flammable adhesives should be stored in suitable flameproof areas.
• All adhesives and sealants should be stored in dry conditions and within the
temperature range as recommended by the manufacturer or the SDS. Typical
temperature range is 5°C to 30°C.
• Warm drums of solvent-based adhesives should be opened slowly and carefully to
allow gradual release of internal pressure.
• To ensure that the useful shelf life of adhesive products is not exceeded, strict
rotation of stock should be observed.
• In all cases, the manufacturer’s instructions and directions printed on both the
SDS and the label should be observed.

WASTE DISPOSAL STANDARD PROCEDURE

Spillage and waste disposal

• Spillages of any type must be attended to immediately.
• Refer to the SDS on spillage procedures. Generally an inert material can be used
to soak up the spillage, which can then be placed in a suitably closed container for
safe disposal.
• For solvent-based adhesives, care must be taken in the disposal of full or empty
containers to avoid a latent explosion and/or fire hazard.
• The empty containers should be either carefully punctured or left open to
eliminate/minimize solvent vapor-air expansion and internal pressure build-up.

HAZARDS ASSOCIATED WITH IMPROPER WASTE DISPOSAL

Methods of waste management

Waste management is now tightly regulated in most developed countries and

includes the generation, collection, processing, transport and disposal of waste. In
addition the remediation of waste sites is an important issue, both to reduce
hazards whilst operational and to prepare the site for a change of use (e.g. for
building).
The major methods of waste management are:
• Recycling—the recovery of materials from products after they have been used by
consumers.
• Composting—an aerobic, biological process of degradation of biodegradable
organic matter.
• Sewage treatment—a process of treating raw sewage to produce a non-toxic liquid
effluent which is discharged to rivers or sea and a semi-solid sludge, which is used
as a soil amendment on land, incinerated or disposed of in land fill.
• Incineration—a process of combustion designed to recover energy and reduce the
volume of waste going to disposal.
• Landfill—the deposition of waste in a specially designated area, which in modern
sites consists of a pre-constructed ‘cell’ lined with an impermeable layer (man-made
or natural) and with controls to minimize emissions
 COMMON COMPETENCY

Unit of Competency: Move and position vehicle

Module Title: Moving and Positioning Vehicle

Module Content:
2.1.1. Safety in driving.
2.1.2. Engine system checkup procedures.
2.1.3. Tire inflation pressure specification
2.1.4. Belt tension checking procedures.
2.1.5. Driver’s code and conduct.
2.1.6. Starting an engine
2.1.7. Shifting gears.
2.1.8. Steering vehicle
2.1.9. Brake application
2.1.10. Driving skills
2.1.11. Oil level
2.1.12. Brake fluid level
2.1.13. Battery electrolytes
2.1.14. Tire pressure
2.1.15. Clutch fluid
2.1.16. Position of driving gear
2.1.17. Lighting and warning devices

No. of hours: 4 Hours

SAFETY IN DRIVING

As a driver, you must play your part by making sure that you are fit to carry out your
driving duties. You should plan your journeys safely and obey occupational health and
safety, and road traffic laws when driving for work. Driver Training Drivers should
consider maintaining their skill and knowledge by undergoing regular refresher training.
 ALL DRIVERS MUST CARRY A VALID DRIVING LICENCE FAILURE TO
DO SO IS AN OFFENCE

Knowledge of rules of the road

You must have a satisfactory knowledge of the rules of the road to get a driving license, but
learning about road safety does not stop once you pass your test. Drivers must regularly
update themselves on road safety rules.

FITNESS TO DRIVE - Your physical health, psychological and emotional state and your
general attitude towards driving play a major part in your fitness to drive.

It is important to remember that your fitness to drive can be negatively affected by:
Fatigue
Alcohol
 Drugs [over the counter, prescription or illicit]
Temporary illness
A medical condition
Daily stress events
 DO NOT CONTINUE TO DRIVE IF YOU ARE SUFFERING FROM
FATIGUE

You are most likely to feel sleepy when driving:

 On long journeys on monotonous roads
 Between 2am and 6am
 Between 2pm and 4pm
 After having less sleep than normal
 After drinking alcohol
 After taking medicines which cause drowsiness
 On journeys home after night shifts
 On journeys after a very long working day

MEDICAL CONDITIONS- Common conditions, such as colds, flu, migraine, stomach

upsets, hay fever, etc. can affect your ability to drive safely. For example, the symptoms of a
cold (headache, blocked sinuses, sneezing, and tiredness) if severe enough can impair your
concentration, reactions and judgment.

If you start to feel ill while driving, stop the vehicle somewhere safe. If the condition is not
serious, you may feel well enough to continue after a short break, a warm drink or taking
some medication.

Eyesight
You should have your eyes tested regularly. Have them examined at least every 2 years or
as advised by an optometrist or a qualified dispensing optician. If you do have to wear
glasses for driving, make sure to always wear them when driving and keep the lenses clean
and scratch free. Carry a spare pair in your car. Carry a pair of sunglasses in your vehicle
in case they are needed.

Alcohol and Drugs

The consumption of alcohol or drugs (including prescription drugs) impairs judgment,
makes drivers over-confident, and makes drivers likely to take risks. It slows reactions,
increases stopping distances, affects judgment of speed and distance, and reduces the field
of vision. Even a small amount of alcohol, well below the legal limit, can seriously affect
your ability to drive safely.

 YOU ARE LEGALLY OBLIGED TO CARRY YOUR DRIVING LICENCE WITH

YOU WHEN YOU DRIVE A VEHICLE

Drivers who have consumed alcohol may focus more on tasks such as gear changes and take
too long to make vital decisions and may miss hazards such as pedestrians on the roads.

It is difficult to know the alcoholic strength of a drink without seeing the bottle. Drinks
poured at home are usually larger than ones bought in a pub or restaurant. The only safe
option is to avoid drinking alcohol in the hours before you will be driving (for example, at
lunchtime). Never rely on trying to calculate accurately how much alcohol is in your body,
and whether you are above or below the drink drive limit.

 IT IS AN OFFENCE TO DRIVE OVER THE PRESCRIBED LEGAL LIMITS FOR

ALCOHOL AND DRUGS

THE MORNING AFTER

The ‘morning after’ is a dangerous time for impaired driving. It takes 1 hour for your body
to process 1 unit of alcohol. So, for example, it could take 10 hours or more hours for your
body to process the alcohol and become alcohol free. Many drink drivers are caught the
morning after they have been drinking. It takes several hours for alcohol to disappear from
the body, so if you were drinking late the previous night, you could easily still be over the
limit on your way to work the next morning. Even if under the legal limit, you may still be
affected by the alcohol in your body.

Daily Stress Events

Stressors are generated by day-to-day events, e.g. work related issues, relationship
difficulties, financial matters and family matters. It is important to manage these stress
events in order to minimize their impact on your driving.

Personal safety
 A well-maintained and regularly-serviced vehicle is less likely to break down and
leave you stranded.
 Take a mobile phone with you for emergencies. Make sure the phone is fully charged
before your journey.
 In general do not pick up hitchhikers or offer lifts to people you do not know.
 Keep valuables and bags out of sight and out of reach.
 Keep the car doors locked while driving in slow moving or stationary traffic if you
feel vulnerable.
 Always lock the door when you are away from the vehicle – even when paying for
fuel.

Safe Parking
 The golden rule is to make sure that others can see you and that you do not park in
an isolated place. Always consider the position of the vehicle on the other side of
your intended space.
 Think about pulling in your wing mirrors, but remember to pull them out again
before driving off.
 Put all valuable items out of sight, e.g. in the boot before leaving your vehicle.
 Lock all doors, windows and the sunroof.
 Listen and look around before getting out of your vehicle.
 Note the location of the street where you park. Think about the time you will be
returning to your vehicle – a safe place during the day may be very different at
night.
 Choose a car park or parking space that is close to your final destination.
SAFE VEHICLE- You need to check both the exterior and interior of the vehicle before
driving. Check the following:
✔ Tires- Undamaged (no cuts or bulges), are at the correct pressure and have enough
tread depth all round. The legal minimum is 1.6mm, but above 3mm gives much shorter
braking distances in the wet
✔ Vehicle body- No signs of damage or loose vehicle body panels and that the boot and
bonnet are closed properly
✔ Fluid levels- Oil, coolant and windscreen wash levels are correct (check when cold)
✔ Fuel- Know the correct type of fuel for the vehicle [especially for hire or loan cars].
Make sure the fuel cap closed and secure
Brakes. Working correctly. Make sure the parking brake is on properly when parked
and before exiting the vehicle at any time
✔ Lights and indicators- Clean, not damaged and working correctly. Carry spare bulbs
in your vehicle
✔ Windscreen and windows- Clean and not damaged. No items attached that may
restrict driver’s view. Use of screen wash in winter stops your water freezing. In
summer this helps to remove insects from windscreen
✔ Washers and wipers- Working correctly. It is recommended to change wipers
regularly. The rubber deteriorates over time when exposed to the elements. An
occasional wipe with methylated spirits will prevent streaking
✔ Mirrors- Clean, correctly positioned for your maximum safe vision and not damaged.
No items attached that may restrict driver’s view
✔ Documentation- All the legally required documentation is displayed on the
windscreen (i.e. Motor tax, Roadworthiness, Insurance discs)
✔ Dashboard- Look at the dashboard when you start the car and check which lights
illuminate. If you are not familiar with the vehicle, check the handbook to ensure you
know what the different lights mean
✔ Doors - Make sure that all of the vehicles doors are closed properly
✔ Seat position- Adjust driver’s seat to suit you. You should be able to see and reach all
of the controls comfortably. Good all-round, unobstructed, visibility is vital. Check that
your view is not obstructed by objects such as stickers or electronic devices
✔ Handbrake or Parking brake. Make sure brake is applied when you stop or park the
vehicle
✔ Gears. Make sure the gears are in neutral or parked for automatic vehicles
✔ Safety Belt. Do up your safety belt and check passengers are wearing theirs and that
any children are properly restrained

 THE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF VEHICLE BREAKDOWN IS VEHICLE

NEGLECT

Vehicle cleanliness- Windscreens/rear windows should be free from clutter to aid efficient
demisting of windscreen and optimal view of the road. Dashboard and cab area should be
kept clean and free of loose items. If eating in the vehicle, leftovers, wrappers and
containers should be disposed of immediately in a suitable manner. NEVER EAT AND
DRIVE AT THE SAME TIME.

Tires
 The life of tires depends on how the vehicle is driven. Avoid hitting tires against curbs,
especially when parking as this may weaken the tire and may damage your wheel or wheel
tracking. Excessive speed, braking or acceleration will cause tires to wear faster. If tires are
not maintained at the manufacturer’s recommended pressures, they will wear more
quickly. You should regularly check your tires and if in any doubt, get them checked by an
authorized tire dealer. Check your spare tire from time to time. Emergency wheels have a
maximum speed and may have a limit on the distance that can be travelled. If the vehicle
does not have a spare wheel, make yourself familiar with the use of alternative equipment
provided. E.g. air compressor or temporary sealant. If the vehicle is fitted with run flat
tires, make sure that you know the limitations on use, such as maximum speed and
distance that can be travelled in the event of a puncture of loss of pressure.

Safety Equipment - It is recommended good practice that you carry the following items of
safety equipment for use in emergencies or breakdowns. You need to be prepared to deal
with situations that happen in daylight as well as in poor visibility or at night.

The following items should be kept in a place that is easy and quick to access in an
emergency:

✔ Warning triangle
✔ First aid kit [for driver]
✔ Torch
✔ High visibility jacket(s). Keep one for each occupant in the vehicle cab at all times

Seat belts
Seat belts must be worn by all passengers and the driver when a vehicle is being driven.
You should adjust the seatbelt to suit you before driving. The driver is responsible to make
sure that all passengers, including rear seat passengers, wear a seat belt on every journey,
no matter how short. This applies in vans, as well as cars, and in larger vehicles if they
have seat belts fitted.

Child restraints
For those whose driving for work duties involve carrying children under 17 years as
passengers, particular attention should be paid to making sure that children are properly
and securely restrained in the vehicle to prevent unnecessary injury.

 IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY, AS THE DRIVER, TO ENSURE THAT

PASSENGERS INCLUDING CHILDREN UNDER 17 YEARS USE THE CORRECT
RESTRAINT OR A SEAT BELT
 SEAT BELTS SAVE THOUSANDS OF LIVES EVERY YEAR. IT IS ESTIMATED
THAT 20% MORE LIVES A YEAR COULD BE SAVED IF EVERY OCCUPANT
ALWAYS WORE THEIR SEAT BELT

Vehicle security
There are many simple steps that you as a driver can take to safeguard your vehicle. When
parked remove the ignition key, engage the steering lock and apply the parking break
before getting out of your vehicle.

To prevent your vehicle being stolen or broken into:

✔ never leave your vehicle unattended when you are warming it up in winter or cooling it
down in summer
✔ Lock the vehicle. Even if only leaving it for a couple of minutes. E.g. when paying for fuel
✔ Close all windows fully
✔ never leave work documents or equipment or personal items on view inside the vehicle
✔ Use attended or secure vehicle parking areas
✔ Always Park in well-lit areas

SAFE JOURNEY - You should make sure that you are fit to drive. Do not drive if you feel
fatigued, unwell or are under the influence of alcohol or drugs. You should be well rested
before you start out on a long journey.
Almost all road crashes involve human error, ranging from simple, ‘honest’ mistakes to
deliberate dangerous and illegal behavior. Every year many people are killed in crashes in
which someone was ‘careless, reckless or in a hurry.”
Speed is the single biggest contributory factor in vehicle collisions.
Collisions often occur when the driver “looked but didn’t see”. Never be distracted, always
concentrate on your driving

 IT IS ESTIMATED THAT IN UP TO 40% OF ROAD DEATHS, ALCOHOL WAS A

FACTOR
 20% OF FATAL ROAD CRASHES ARE ESTIMATED TO BE CAUSED BY
FATIGUE

Driving is a very personal thing; our attitude as drivers, how we deal with our own
mistakes and our reaction to those made by other people, will influence our own safety and
wellbeing and that of other road users around us.

Aggressive, selfish or impatient attitudes when we drive can develop into a tendency to
take irresponsible risks, such as:

▲ Tailgating [driving too close to the vehicle in front]

▲ Exceeding speed limits

▲ Undertaking

▲ Jumping red lights

Driver emotional mood can influence behavior. Drivers commonly express how they feel in
the way they drive. Traffic delays and congestion can influence our frame of mind. Life
stresses, such as relationship anxieties, financial or employment problems, domestic or
workplace arguments, influence our mood and can affect our driving.

 BEFORE DRIVING FOR WORK YOU MUST FOCUS ON THE TASK, PREPARE
FOR THE JOURNEY AND ALWAYS GIVE IT YOUR FULL ATTENTION’

Safe speed- Always drive within the legal speed limit for the type of vehicle you are driving.
A good rule of thumb is to leave enough space when you are stopped in traffic so that you
can see the road under the rear tires of the vehicle in front.

Speed limits

Always stay within speed limits (including variable limits and temporary limits at
roadwork’s) even if you think the limit is too low. Speed limits set the maximum speed for
that road. But there are many circumstances when it is not safe to drive at that speed (for
example, around schools at opening and closing times, on busy, narrow roads, and on rural
roads which are bendy and hilly and where visibility is restricted). Always drive mindful of
all of the prevailing conditions.

Drivers are responsible for the speeds at which they choose to drive, but there are some
simple and practical things drivers who find it difficult to stay within speed limits can do to
help themselves:

Top tips to help you drive at the right speed

✔ Check your speedometer regularly, especially when leaving high speed roads
✔ Know the limits – look for signs, especially at junctions
✔ Remember, speed limits are a maximum, not a target
✔ Try to stay in lower gear in a 50 km/h speed limit area
✔ Lower your speed when kids are about
✔ Concentrate on your driving
✔ Slow down when entering villages, towns and residential areas. Drive as though a child
could step out in front of you at any time
✔ when in car parks drive very slowly. Small children cannot see over parked cars. Drivers
may not see them either
✔ Give yourself plenty of time

Mobile phones
Using a hand-held or hands-free mobile phone while driving is a significant distraction, and
greatly increases the risk of collision. It is illegal to hold or cradle a hand-held mobile phone
while driving (this includes any activity that involves dialing a number, writing a text or
accessing internet or other applications.

 YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BE TALKING ON THE PHONE FOR IT TO BE A MAJOR

SOURCE OF DISTRACTION
 It can also be illegal to use a hands-free phone while driving. Depending upon the
circumstances, drivers could be charged 46 IMPACT RISK OF SPEED PEDESTRIAN
DEATH 30 km/h 5% 50 km/h 45% 60 km/h 85% Safe Journey with driving without
reasonable consideration, careless or even dangerous driving if an incident occurs whilst
they are distracted because they are using a hands-free phone.

 IT IS ILLEGAL TO HOLD OR USE A HAND HELD MOBILE PHONE WHILE

DRIVING

Safe Driving Practices

When starting from cold drive away as soon as it is safe. Do not leave your car idling. Drive
smoothly. Read the road ahead so you can keep moving as much as possible, and avoid
harsh acceleration and braking. Accelerate gently and decelerate smoothly. Change gear as
soon as possible without laboring the engine (around 2000 rpm in a diesel car or around
2500rpm in a petrol car). Only use the air conditioning if you really need to. Turn off
electrical equipment, such as heated rear windscreen, demister blowers and headlights,
when you do not need them. Stay within speed limits. Driving at lower speed will improve
fuel economy.

ENGINE SYSTEM CHECK UP PROCEDURES – in every journey, we must aware the

common checking of our engine system because this may help us for safe travel and quality
journey.

 BELTS AND HOSES

What is it?
You car’s belts and hoses are essential to the cooling, air conditioning and charging systems,
and the engine. Don’t take these routine replacement intervals for granted because they can
break down and leave you stranded.

What does it do?

The timing belt keeps the crankshaft and camshaft mechanically synchronized to maintain
engine timing. Whether serpentine, V-belt or fan belt (the belts on the outside of the engine),
they all transmit power from the front of the engine to accessories that need to be driven, such
as the air conditioning, the charging system and fans. Radiator and heater hoses carry coolant
to and from the engine, radiator and heater core.

Typical Wear and Tear

Key items that affect the replacement interval for belts and hoses:

 Vehicle age
 Electrolytic corrosion
 Mileage
 Oil contamination
 Belt tension
 Failed hose clamps
 Symptoms

 Squeaking noise from under the hood during start-up or operation

 Coolant leaks
 Dashboard light will illuminate
 A/C System may fail
 Engine overheating
 Smell of burnt rubber

 BRAKE SYSTEM

What is it?
Your car’s brake system is its most critical safety system and you should check it immediately if
you suspect any problems. A properly operating brake system helps ensure safe vehicle control
and operation under a wide variety of conditions.

What does it do?

When you push the brake pedal, the force generates hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder.
This pressure flows through the hydraulic lines and hoses to the wheel cylinders and calipers,
forcing the shoes against the drums (drum brakes) and the pads against the rotors (disc brakes).
The resulting friction slows the vehicle and is relative to the amount of force applied at the
brake pedal.

Typical Wear and Tear

Brakes are a normal wear item for any car and eventually they’re going to need replacement.
Avoid letting your brakes get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which usually means expensive
rotor or drum replacement. Factors that affect wear include driving habits and quality of brake
pads and shoes.

Symptoms

 Car pulls to one side during braking

 Pulsating brake pedal or steering wheel shake
 Brake pedal feels “mushy”
 Unusual noise when you step on the brake pedal
 Repeatedly need to add brake fluid to the master cylinder
 Brake fluid sprayed onto outside of wheel
 Unusual odor or noise

 EMISSION SYSTEM

What is it?
Your car’s emission system keeps the engine running cleanly and efficiently in all sorts of
operating conditions. A steady or flashing warning light on your vehicle dashboard indicates a
problem that is currently happening and may require immediate attention. Failure to do so can
reduce your gas mileage or cause your vehicle to pollute.

What does it do?

 Your car’s emission system controls the emissions, exhaust and pollutants (including gasoline
vapors escaping from the fuel tank), using an array of sensors, computerized engine controls
and the exhaust components. The emission system substantially reduces harmful gases such as
carbon monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and, by law,
must be maintained in operating condition.

Typical Wear and Tear

Some factors affecting the emission system include:

 Driving and atmospheric conditions

 Mileage
 Vehicle age
 Type of spark plug electrode material
 Poor vehicle maintenance
 Poor quality fuel
 Damaged or worn sensors
 Dry-rotted or cracked vacuum hoses

 ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

What is it?
The engine cooling system affects your car’s overall dependability and engine longevity. Cooling
systems have advanced over the years with new coolant formulations and new radiator designs
and materials. If you suspect a problem with your cooling system, you should check it
immediately.

What does it do?

The key parts of the cooling system remove heat from the engine and automatic transmission
and dissipate heat to the air outside. The water pump circulates coolant through the engine.
The coolant absorbs heat and returns it to the radiator where heat is dissipated. The thermostat
regulates the coolant temperature to keep it consistent for efficient engine operation.

Typical Wear and Tear

Factors that affect the replacement of cooling system parts include:

 Driving habits
 Operating conditions
 Type of vehicle
 Type of coolant
 Frequency of regular maintenance such as coolant changes

Symptoms

 Overheating
 Sweet smell
 Leaks
 Repeatedly need to add fluid

 EXHAUST SYSTEM
 What is it?
Your car’s exhaust system has come a long way from the old days of exhaust pipes and mufflers.
Today, the exhaust system is safety and emissions control rolled into one. Have your car’s
exhaust system inspected regularly and check it immediately if you suspect any problems.

What does it do?

The exhaust system routes dangerous exhaust gas from the engine out and away from the car to
keep from affecting the occupants. Next, the exhaust system reduces exhaust noise from the
engine. The catalytic converter reduces the level of harmful pollutants in the exhaust. The
oxygen sensors mounted in the exhaust system monitor the level of oxygen in the exhaust gases
to maintain efficient engine operation and to monitor the converter’s operation.

Typical Wear and Tear

Maintain a safe car with regular exhaust system checks. Factors that affect replacement
requirements include:

 Driving habits (short trips take their toll on exhaust system life)
 Road conditions (salt, road spray, bumps)
 Vehicle type
 Age of exhaust system parts

Symptoms

 Loud noise
 Rattling noise when starting, accelerating or braking
 Drowsiness while driving
 Rotten eggs smell

 FILTERS AND FLUIDS

What is it?
Your car’s filters are important to the longevity of your car and interior comfort. Maximize your
car investment by replacing filters regularly.

What does it do?

The oil filter traps contaminants, allowing the oil to flow through the engine unrestricted. The
fuel filter separates harmful contaminants that may cause problems with carburetors or
intricate fuel injectors. The air filter traps dirt particles, which can cause damage to engine
cylinders, walls, pistons and piston rings. The air filter also plays a role in keeping
contaminants off the airflow sensor (in fuel-injected cars). The cabin filter helps trap pollen,
bacteria and dust that may find their way into a car’s ventilation system.

Typical Wear and Tear

Filters are normal wear items that require regular checks and replacement. Factors that affect
replacement intervals include:

 Mileage
 Driving habits
 Driving and road conditions
 Type of filter
 Vehicle type

Symptoms

 Poor gas mileage

 Hesitation while accelerating
 Musty odor in the cabin

 FUEL SYSTEM

What is it?
You car’s fuel system works with the rest of the engine control system to deliver the best
performance with the lowest emissions. Check your car’s fuel system regularly or immediately if
you smell gas or suspect a problem.

What does it do?

The fuel system transfers fuel from the fuel tank and passes it through a fuel filter for straining
before it arrives at the injectors. A pressure regulator controls fuel pressure to ensure good
engine performance under a variety of speed and load conditions. Fuel injectors, when activated,
spray a metered amount of fuel into the engine. Some vehicles use a return line system to
return unused fuel back to the tank.

Typical Wear and Tear

Intervals for fuel system maintenance may be influenced by:

 Fuel quality
 Vehicle age
 Mileage/time
 Operating conditions
 Maintenance history

Symptoms

 Poor fuel economy

 Vehicle won’t start
 “Check Engine” light is illuminated

 LIGHTING AND WIPERS

What is it?
Lights and wipers play a major role in safe driving – the chances for accidents increase if you
can’t see or be seen. Some states have laws that require the headlights to be on with the wipers.
If you detect any problems with your car’s lights or wipers, have them checked out at once.

What does it do?

The wiper system keeps excessive water, snow or dirt from building up on the windshield and
removes them to maintain clear visibility through the windshield. The lighting system provides
nighttime visibility, signals and alerts other drivers, and supplies light for viewing instruments
and the vehicle’s interior.
 Typical Wear and Tear
Lights and wipers are normal wear items that require periodic replacement. Factors affecting
replacement intervals include:

 Operating conditions (winter conditions are tough on wiper blades)

 Frequency of use
 Material and type of lights and wipers
 Sunny weather – wiper blades can deteriorate faster and need more frequent replacement in
desert states

Symptoms

 Chattering or streaking wiper

 Rapid signal blinking
 Dimming lights

 STARTING, CHARGING AND BATTERIES

What is it?
Your car’s starting and charging systems, and the battery, help ensure dependable vehicle
operation whenever you drive your car and in all sorts of driving conditions. Make sure to check
these systems regularly.

What does it do?

The battery stores electrical energy and the starter converts that energy into mechanical force
to turn the engine for starting. The alternator produces electric current to replace what the
starter used during start-up and to support electrical loads when the engine is running. An
ignition module turns the low-voltage supply to the ignition coil on and off, and the coil produces
the high voltage for the ignition system. This creates a spark at the spark plugs and ignites the
air/fuel mixture in the engine. A belt transmits power from the front of the engine to the
alternator’s pulley, along with other accessories.

Typical Wear and Tear

Driving habits such as frequent engine on/off cycles will cause more wear on the starter than a
simple trip back and forth to work. Other factors include:

 Driving and weather conditions

 Mileage
 Vehicle age
 Excessive electrical draws like in-vehicle entertainment systems

Symptoms

 Headlights and interior lights dim

 “Check Engine” and/or battery light may come on
 Accessories fail to operate

 STEERING AND SUSPENSION

What is it?
 The steering and suspension systems are key safety-related systems that largely determine
your car’s ride and handling. Have these systems checked regularly, at least once a year and
usually with a wheel alignment.

What does it do?

The suspension maintains the relationship between the wheels and the frame or unibody. The
suspension system interacts with the steering system to provide vehicle control. When working
properly, the suspension system helps absorb the energy from road irregularities such as
potholes and helps to maintain vehicle stability. The steering system transmits your input from
the steering wheel to the steering gear and other steering components to control the car’s
direction.

Typical Wear and Tear

Over time, steering and suspension components wear out and require replacement. Regular
checks are critical to maintain a safe car. Factors that affect wear include:

 Driving habits
 Operating conditions (potholes in road)
 Vehicle type
 Type of steering and suspension system
 Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment

Symptoms

 Car pulls to one side

 Uneven tire wear
 Excessive noise, vibration or bouncing
 Loss of control

 TRANSMISSION

What is it?
The transmission works with the engine to provide power to your car’s wheels. Whether
automatic or manual, the transmission plays a major role in the overall performance of your
car. Make sure to check it at the first sign of problems.

What does it do?

A transmission/transaxle keeps the engine’s output optimally matched to the speed and load
conditions. The torque converter, connected to the automatic transmission/transaxle input
shaft, connects, multiplies and interrupts the flow of engine torque into the transmission.
Universal and/or Constant Velocity (CV) joints connect to the driveshaft to transmit output
power from the transmission to the rear axle on rear-wheel-drive cars and the front axle on
front-wheel-drive cars. These joints also allow the driveshaft and/or CV shaft to work at an
angle. The several different types of automatic transmission fluid serve multiple purposes:
cleans, cools, lubricates, transmits force, transmits pressure, inhibits varnish buildup and
continually protects the transmission.

Typical Wear and Tear

Wear and tear on the transmission can be influenced by:
 Driving habits
o Towing or excessive loads
o Operating conditions
o Condition of the transmission fluid
o Frequency of regular maintenance

Symptoms

 Slipping
 Hesitation
 Bucking
 Grinding gears
 Difficulty shifting

 TIRE INFLATION PRESSURE SPECIFICATION

-The first place to look for the correct air pressure for
your specific tires is your vehicle owner's manual. Correct air
pressure should also be listed on the tire placard attached to the
vehicle door edge, doorpost, glove box door or fuel door.

Why Correct Tire Pressure Matters

Keeping the correct air pressure in your tires helps your tires last longer, helps your
car handle better and safer, and helps you save money on fuel.

Check Tire Pressure Regularly

Most people forget about their tires until something goes wrong. The truth is, tires
lose pressure daily. In cool weather, a tire will typically lose one or two pounds of
air per month. In warm weather, tires lose even more air. That’s why it’s
recommended that you check air pressure every other time you stop to fill up your
gas tank. Keep in mind that many vehicles have different tire pressures on the front
and rear axle. And don’t forget to check the pressure in your spare tire.

What Is the Correct Pressure?

The first place to look for the correct air pressure for your specific tires is your
vehicle owner’s manual. Correct air pressure should also be listed on the tire
placard attached to the vehicle door edge, doorpost, glove box door or fuel door.
TPMS Dash Icons

This means that one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

This means that the right front tire is significantly under-inflated.

With the TPMS, one of these symbols will light up on the dashboard when any tire
is 25% under-inflated.

 BELT TENSION CHECKING PROCEDURES

Drive belts always stretch a little in use, because of the

strains put on them by driving the water pump
and generator, as well as the fan itself if it is in the
system. Age and continual flexing also cause belts to crack
and deteriorate.

Stretching slackens a belt, so that it slips on the pulleys. A

cracked belt will eventually break. The tension and general
condition of the belt should therefore be checked at least monthly.

The ignition light comes on to give immediate warning of a broken belt, as the
generator stops working.

 ANY MISALIGNMENT IS USUALLY CAUSED BY MOUNTING THE

GENERATOR WRONGLY.
 Some cars are fitted with an idler-wheel
tensioner, which gives simple and accurate
adjustment of the belt tension. Slacken the
locknut on the adjuster screw and turn the
adjuster until the belt tension is correct. Retighten
the locknut and re-check the tension.

 CHECKING THE BELT TENSION

Use a ruler to find the midway point on the belt's longest run between pulleys. Hold
the belt between finger and thumb at this point and move it from side to side.
If it moves more than 1/2 in. (13 mm) it is too slack - any less
movement and it is too tight. Check the exact deflection
recommended in the car handbook.

 ADJUSTING THE DRIVE BELT

A drive belt is usually tightened or slackened by means of an adjustable
pivot where the generator is mounted on the engine.

The generator itself is made to pivot on the two bolts holding it, so that it
can swing out and away from the engine. But its movement is governed
and can be restrained by a slotted metal strap bolted to the free side of the
generator.

Belt adjustment is made by slackening off the pivot bolts, then those on
the slotted strap, so that the generator is free to move.

To tighten the belt, use a strong piece of wood to pull the generator away from the
engine - a hammer handle will do - while you test the belt tension with the other
hand.
When the tension is correct hold the generator firmly in that position and tighten
the adjusting strap bolts. Re-check the tension and, if it is still correct, tighten the
pivot bolts.
Hold the alternator steady and check the tension. When
it is correct retighten the bolts.
To slacken the belt, loosen the pivot bolts so that the generator is just movable by
hand. Move the generator towards the engine a little at a time while feeling the
tension on the belt with your other hand.
When the tension is correct, tighten the adjusting strap bolts and the pivot bolt.
Some cars have an idler-wheel pulley which presses on the belt. If yours does, turn
the screw adjuster to move the wheel and alter the belt tension. This is often
simpler than moving the generator.

 ADJUSTING A SPLIT-PULLEY BELT

Take off the front half of the pulley and remove or add to the shims between the two
halves, so narrowing or widening the V between them. As the V narrows, the belt is
forced further from the center, up the shoulders of the pulley, and becomes tighter,
as it widens, the belt runs closer to the center and slackens.

Take care not to trap the belt between the two halves of the pulley
when tightening them again after adjustment.
Replace the pulley front half with the shim on the outside of the
pulley, between it and the nut or nuts.
Tighten the nut a little, turn the engine over one-third of a
revolution, then tighten a little more, and so on until the halves are
firmly clamped together.
Finally, turn the engine over one more time and re-check the belt tension.

 REPLACING A DRIVE BELT

Garages and shops selling fan or drive belts have a list of the correct types for most
popular cars. Buy one of the right size and quality.
Belts for alternators are usually made of stronger material than
dynamo belts. They are also usually more expensive - but if you
use a cheaper dynamo belt to drive an alternator it will
probably wear out quickly and perhaps suddenly.
If the correct belt for your car is not on the garage list ask your
local dealer for advice, or take the old belt with you for
comparison. Even then, make sure the new belt is of the same specification as the
old one, or better.
Fitting a new drive belt is usually simple if the pulleys are at the front of the car.
But it can be more difficult if the engine is mounted across the car, as on the Mini -
because the fan is shrouded or the belt is otherwise harder to get at. On some cars
you must remove the shroud surrounding the cooling fan, or at least part of it.
To take off the old belt, slacken the adjustment bolts on the generator mounting and
push the generator in towards the engine as far as it will go.
You should now be able to pull the belt off the topmost pulley
- usually that on the water pump. Unhook the belt from the
generator and crankshaft pulleys and lift over the fan. On
cars with a shrouded fan, it is usually possible to feed the
belt out over the blades one at a time, between blade and
shroud.

Put on the new belt by the same

methods, but in reverse order. Often,
however, the belt has to be 'wound'
over the top pulley.
To do this, feed it over the fan and on to the lower
pulleys, making sure it is properly located in the V of the
pulleys. Now stretch it as far as possible over the top one, and
wind it on by slowly turning the fan and at the same time pressing
it against the pulley rim with your thumb. Take care not to trap your fingers
between the belt and pulley.

 DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR SIMILAR TOOL TO LEVER THE

BELT OVER THE PULLEY. IF THE BELT IS TOO TIGHT TO BE FITTED
BY THE WINDING METHOD, IT IS TOO SMALL ANYWAY, AND YOU
MUST GET ONE OF THE PROPER SIZE.

 DRIVER’S CODE AND CONDUCT.

7 GOOD RULES FOR A PROFESSIONAL DRIVER CODE OF CONDUCT

1 – Don’t drink and drive
Never drink and drive. Alcohol consumption impairs your ability to drive safely. Not
only does alcohol make a driver over-confident, it affects reaction time and the
capacity to stop the vehicle quickly. This happens even if you drink a volume of
alcohol well below the legal limit.
2 – Pay attention when driving between 2 am and 6 am
This is the time of night you are most likely to feel drowsy; make sure you are not
tired when driving, and stop if there is a risk of drowsiness.
3 – Pay attention when driving between 2 pm and 4 pm
This is the time of day that you are most likely to feel lethargic. Be conscious you
may feel drowsy after lunch so make sure you eat lightly, do not eat heavy food, and
most importantly, avoid the temptation to consume alcohol.
4 – Make sure you are properly rested
The skill of driving is a task that is often taken for granted; if you are accustomed to
a lot of driving you may not consider the inherent dangers of tiredness. Do not take
unnecessary risks. See that you are properly rested before you set out on the road
and definitely ensure that you have slept sufficiently before driving, especially
before long journeys.
5 – Check your eyesight
Have your eyes tested regularly—at least every 2 years—or as many times as your
ophthalmologist considers necessary. If you wear glasses, or contacts, these checks
could very well be more frequent.
If you are wearing glasses make sure you have an extra pair, that they are clean
and free from scratches. Always carry a pair of sunglasses as well in case they are
needed.
6 – Pay attention to the prescription you take
Some medicines have side effects that can influence you’re driving conduct, not only
sleeping pills but also allergy prescriptions, painkillers and other medicines. Always
read the warnings on the package thoroughly. Consult your pharmacist or doctor
concerning any possible prescription side effects that could influence you’re driving
conduct.

7 – Stop if you aren’t feeling well

Resist the temptation to drive if you are feeling unwell, if you have a fever or are
feeling drained. Driving the morning after a drink is not advisable, as you are still
likely to be under the influence. It takes time for alcohol to pass through your body
and you can still be over the legal limit the next morning. Even if you aren’t legally
over the limit, it can affect your ability to drive safely anyway.

MOVE AND POSITION VEHICLE

CONTENTS:

1. Starting an engine
2. Shifting gears.
 3. Steering vehicle
4. Brake application
5. Driving skills

 STARTING AN ENGINE

The "starting system", the heart of the electrical system in your car, begins with
the Battery. The key is inserted into the Ignition Switch and then turned to the
start position. A small amount of current then passes through the Neutral Safety
Switch to a Starter Relay or Starter Solenoid which allows high current to flow
through the Cables to the Starter Motor. The starter motor then cranks the engine
so that the piston, moving downward, can create a suction that will draw
a Fuel/Air mixture into the cylinder, where a spark created by the Ignition
System will ignite this mixture. If the Compression in the engine is high enough
and all this happens at the right Time, the engine will start.

 BATTERY

The automotive battery, also known as a lead-acid

storage battery, is an electrochemical device that
produces voltage and delivers current. In an
automotive battery we can reverse the
electrochemical action, thereby recharging the
battery, which will then give us many years of
service. The purpose of the battery is to supply
current to the starter motor, provide current to
the ignition system while cranking, to supply
additional current when the demand is higher
than the alternator can supply and to act as an electrical reservoir.

 IGNITION SWITCH

The ignition switch allows the driver to distribute electrical current to where it is
needed. There are generally 5 key switch positions that are used:

1. Lock- All circuits are open (no current supplied) and the steering wheel is in the
lock position. In some cars, the transmission lever cannot be moved in this position.
If the steering wheel is applying pressure to the locking mechanism, the key might
be hard to turn. If you do experience this type of condition, try moving the steering
wheel to remove the pressure as you turn the key.
2. Off- All circuits are open, but the steering wheel can be turned and the key cannot
be extracted.
3. Run- All circuits, except the starter circuit, are closed (current is allowed to pass
through). Current is supplied to all but the starter circuit.
4. Start- Power is supplied to the ignition circuit and the starter motor only. That is
why the radio stops playing in the start position. This position of the ignition switch
is spring loaded so that the starter is not engaged while the engine is running. This
position is used momentarily, just to activate the starter.
5. Accessory- Power is supplied to all but the ignition and starter circuit. This allows
you to play the radio, work the power windows, etc. while the engine is not running.

Most ignition switches are mounted on the steering column. Some switches are
actually two separate parts;

 The lock into which you insert the key. This component also contains the
mechanism to lock the steering wheel and shifter.
 The switch which contains the actual electrical circuits. It is usually mounted on top
of the steering column just behind the dash and is connected to the lock by a linkage
or rod.

 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

This switch opens (denies current to) the starter circuit when the transmission is in
any gear but Neutral or Park on automatic transmissions. This switch is normally
connected to the transmission linkage or directly on the transmission. Most cars
utilize this same switch to apply current to the backup lights when the transmission
is put in reverse. Standard transmission cars will connect this switch to the clutch
pedal so that the starter will not engage unless the clutch pedal is depressed. If you
find that you have to move the shifter away from park or neutral to get the car to
start, it usually means that this switch needs adjustment. If your car has an
automatic parking brake release, the neutral safety switch will control that function
also.

 BATTERY CABLES

Battery cables are large diameter, multistranded wire which carry the high current
(250+ amps) necessary to operate the starter motor. Some have a smaller wire
soldered to the terminal which is used to either operate a smaller device or to
provide an additional ground. When the smaller cable burns, this indicates a high
resistance in the heavy cable. Care must be taken to keep the battery cable ends
(terminals) clean and tight. Battery cables can be replaced with ones that are
slightly larger but never smaller.
  STARTER MOTOR

The starter motor is a powerful electric motor, with a small gear (pinion) attached
to the end. When activated, the gear is meshed with a larger gear (ring), which is
attached to the engine. The starter motor then spins the engine over so that the
piston can draw in a fuel/ air mixture, which is then ignited to start the engine.
When the engine starts to spin faster than the starter, a device called an
overrunning clutch (bendix drive) automatically disengages the starter gear from
the engine gear.

 SHIFTING GEARS

 HOW TO DRIVE A STICK SHIFT IN TEN EASY STEPS

Step One: Know Your Way Around

A manual transmission requires the driver to shift the gears

themselves. Most cars have four or five forward speeds, as well
as reverse. In order to master the process, you need to know the
following:
 The clutch pedal is located at the far left and is used
when moving up or down from one gear to another. The clutch is disengaged
when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

 Neutral is not a gear; actually, it is the absence of gear. When the engine is
running in neutral, you can rev up the engine, but you won’t go anywhere.
You’ll also be able to wiggle the shifter back and forth - which you can’t do
when engaged in any gear.

 For most cars, second gear is the workhorse. It will get you up (and down)
steep hills as well as through congested downtown.
  Reverse gear is somewhat different from the others: it’s got more range than,
say, first gear, but doesn’t like going for too long or too fast. So, don’t back up
around the block to pass the time.

 The gas pedal (at far right) works with the gears to give the engine power at
different levels. As mentioned before, if you press on the gas pedal while out
of gear, you will only rev the car up: this is how young men impress women.
But if you over-accelerate with the clutch partially engaged, you’ll eventually
wear it out.

Step Two: Learn the Gears

Learn the location of and feel of passing through the gears. First
learn to shift the gears without the car running (pushing the
clutch in each time). Then, from the passenger seat, try it with
someone else driving the car and operating the clutch. Be sure
to place the stick all the way into gear—until it won’t go any
more—but don’t force it. If you stop halfway, you will hear an
incredibly unpleasant grinding sound which means your car is
not in gear.

Eventually, you will know when to shift by feel, but early on you’ll have to act
deliberately. Even if you’ve never been in a car before, you can tell when a car is in
the appropriate gear: the car’s not making a coughing and chugging sound (gear too
high) but it’s not making a high-revving sound either (gear too low). If you have a
tachometer, shift around “3" (3000 RPM) on each gear or every 15 miles per hour
(1st gear 1-15 MPH, 2nd 15-30, 3rd 30-45, etc.). This is only a general rule, of
course, and higher-powered autos will deviate from this. Shift before you hear that
loud revving sound.

Step Three: Starting the Car

Put the car in neutral before starting, or you will jump and stall the car. This is bad.
Keep in mind that most new cars will not start without the clutch pressed down.
Leave the shifter into neutral while the car warms up. Alternately, start the car in
gear with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, then shift into neutral, release the
clutch pedal, and let the car warm up.

Step Four: Using the Clutch

The clutch is the mechanism that allows the gears
to transition back and forth smoothly. If you pull the
car in or out of gear without using the clutch, or
release the clutch only halfway into gear, you will
hear an amazingly unpleasant sound. Avoid this.

The clutch is the pedal on the left. The brake is in

the middle and the gas on the right. Use your left foot on the clutch and your right
foot on the brake and gas, just like with an automatic.

It’s difficult to avoid some sort of wear and tear on the clutch when learning how to
drive a stick shift. If you go slowly at first and pay close attention, you can feel (in
your feet) where the clutch engages and disengages. If you learn that well, you’ll put
less strain on your car. You’ll also be able to drive any stick shift more smoothly
from the get-go.

Avoid needless acceleration when the clutch is partially engaged. When at a

stoplight, don’t get in the habit of holding the clutch in for more than a few seconds
or you will have other problems down the line. Instead, put the car in neutral while
stopped for any period of time.

Popping the clutch: Invariably, you will miss your gear (or release the clutch too
quickly) and the car will lurch ahead. Often at the outset, you will pop the clutch too
quickly and stall the car. Don’t worry, it happens to
everyone. Just get those exercises out of the way
before you find yourself in bumper-to-bumper traffic.

Step Five: Upshifting

Here we are at the most important junction of the stick shift world: the door to
acceleration. Driving a stick shift is all about that magical place where the clutch
comes up and the gas pedal goes down. It’s that seamless place where the gears are
shifted and the car accelerates. Let’s take first to second on a flat road as an
example: First gear going steady, clutch in as you come off the gas quickly, then off
the clutch slowly while pressing in the gas.

That place in the middle where the clutch pedal is to the floor and you’re off the gas
is where you take the shifter from first to second. Get those feet and hands used to
working together.

Here we go once more:

 Revving high (around 3000 RPM or at 15 mph).

 Clutch in and gas off.

 Move the shifter smoothly from first to second.

 Slowly off the clutch while pushing on the gas.

 Completely let your foot off the clutch and gas it up.

 Same thing next gear

Step Six: Downshifting

Downshifting is the act of moving appropriately to lower

gears while slowing down. This is the essential difference
between the operation of an automatic transmission and
one of manual persuasion: downshifting not only helps
you slow the car, but it also puts you in the right gear for
the speed. Downshifting is your friend - especially in bad
weather or on hills, where immediate braking can be dangerous.

Keep in mind that you may shift down only one gear or simply apply the brakes.
Again, knowing your range in each gear will help determine what’s needed.
While downshifting, move from clutch to brake while in gear. This will help you
slow down without revving too high between gears.

If you are driving 45 mph in fourth gear and come upon a stop sign ahead:

 Push in the clutch and shift down to third while using the brake.

 Let the clutch out slowly to avoid high revs.

 Next, do it again into second before you stop?

 Don’t downshift into first!

Step Seven: Reverse

Be very careful in backing up. The reverse gear is very
quick and can jump out at you. To get into reverse,
sometimes you need lift collar on the shift lever or push it
down. Only do this while at a complete stop.

The clutch is key while going in reverse. Since reverse is

so quick, let out the clutch slowly and push it back in
while using the brake if necessary; you will likely be able to back out of any spot
with this simple measure. If you need to, only push the gas pedal in a little bit.

Step Eight: Starting On a Hill

Find a hill with little traffic. Use your emergency brake

when coming to a stop. When the light turns green to go,
shift into first, start to accelerate slowly as you release
the clutch pedal, then release the emergency brake just
as you feel the car engage the gear. This way you are
using the brake to keep you from rolling back. If you
stall, put on your brake and start again.
Step Nine: Parking
It is important to note that the emergency brake is very
important when parking a stick shift car, because there
exists no “park” gear to keep the car from rolling. Some
rely only on the pull-up emergency brake, usually
sufficient in most situations. But for extra safety, leave
the car in gear AND use the emergency brake.

Step Ten: Practice!

All of this is going to seem overwhelming at first, but it all

become natural with practice. Start off in a big empty
parking lot, then progress to quiet roads when you feel
comfortable doing so. Even if it’s frustrating, keep at it
and you’ll be rewarded with far more control over your
car, better performance, better fuel economy, a valuable
life skill and the ability to drive any four-wheeled vehicle
on the planet.

 STEERING VEHICLE
  Holding the Steering Wheel Correctly

1. Hold the wheel with both hands. Be ready to

negotiate split-second emergencies. Maintain as
much control as possible over the car at all times.
If your car has a manual transmission, shift gears
when needed, but do not keep a needless grip on
the gearshift afterward. Instead, return your hand
to the steering wheel immediately.

 Turning on your windshield wipers, headlights, and turning signals also require you
to remove one hand from the wheel. But these controls are typically located close to
the steering wheel to minimize the time spent driving one-handed.
 Reversing the car is an exception to this rule.

2. Keep your grip firm. Resist the urge to slacken your

grip on the wheel. At the same time, be careful not to
clench the wheel too tensely. This can tire your arms
out and possibly obscure warning signs that
reverberate through the steering wheel. ”Feeling” the
car through the steering wheel is another important
reason to steer with both hands.

3. Hold the wheel at at "10-and-2" or "9-and-3."

Picture the steering wheel as an old-fashioned clock
with 12 o’clock as the apex of the wheel. With your
 left hand, hold the wheel at either 9 or 10 o’clock. Then hold the other side at either
3 or 2 o’clock with your right.
10-and-2 is better suited for older cars or any others with larger steering wheels and
no power steering.

9-and-3 has become the new norm for modern cars equipped with power steering,
smaller steering wheels, and airbags.

4. Mind your thumbs. While driving on

paved roads, hold the wheel with your thumbs
hooked around the steering wheel. If you turn off-
road, remove your thumbs. Place them along the
steering wheel's rim, as if you were giving two
thumbs-up.

 Hooking your thumbs under the rim while driving

off-road may set you up for injury. Your tires
could strike obstacles hard enough to jolt the steering wheel in your hand.
 If you are driving on a paved road with your hands at 9-and-3, nestle your thumbs
along the wheel's spokes where they meet the rim.

 BRAKE APPLICATION

Preventive Auto Maintenance

The Automotive Maintenance and Repair Association (AMRA) recommends to its

members that (1) auto Brake fluid be tested for contamination at OEM
recommended brake system inspection intervals, and (2) that a Brake fluid
replacement service be performed, for most vehicles, when testing shows copper
content exceeds 200 ppm. The AMRA Technical Committee reached these
conclusions after extensive study of industry data, including a review of SAE
Papers, US Government reports (NHTSA and NIST) and independent laboratory
studies, among other resources. The data showed that this increased presence of
copper contamination predetermines the rapid growth of iron contamination and
corrosion which has shown to impede future brake system performance.
What is an auto braking system?

An automotive braking system is a group of mechanical, electronic and

hydraulically activated components which use friction / heat to stop a moving
vehicle.

How does a braking system work?

When the brake pedal is depressed, the pressure on the brake pedal moves a piston
in the master cylinder, forcing the brake fluid from the master cylinder through the
brake lines and flexible hoses to the calipers and wheel cylinders. The force applied
to the brake pedal produces a proportional force on each of the pistons.

The calipers and wheel cylinders contain pistons, which are connected to a disc
brake pad or brake shoe. Each output piston pushes the attached friction material
against the surface of the rotor or wall of the brake drum, thus slowing down the
rotation of the wheel.

When pressure on the pedal is released, the pads and shoes return to their released
positions. This action forces the brake fluid back through the flexible hose and
tubing to the master cylinder.
What components are in the auto braking system?

Disc Brakes
Disc Brakes are comprised of a disc or rotor, a caliper assembly, disc brake pads and
the wheel bearings and hardware necessary to mount the components on the
vehicle. The caliper is connected to the master cylinder through tubes, hoses and
valves that conduct brake fluid through the system.

Drum Brakes

Drum Brakes are comprised of a drum & backing plate, a hub or axle assembly,
brake shoes , wheel cylinder, wheel bearings and hardware necessary to mount
these components on the vehicle. The wheel cylinder is connected to the master
cylinder through tubes, hoses and valves that conduct brake fluid through the
system.

Brake Fluid:

Brake fluid is a type of hydraulic fluid used in brake applications for automobiles
and light trucks. It is used to transfer force under pressure from where it is created
through hydraulic lines to the braking mechanism near the wheels. Braking
applications produce a lot of heat so brake fluid must have a high boiling point to
remain effective and must not freeze under operating conditions. Brake fluid is also
designed to protect against corrosion of the system materials it contacts, however
those corrosion inhibitors deplete over time.

Excessive moisture is also an issue. MAP continues to seek additional information

from brake fluid manufacturers and other technical experts to identify the point of
vaporization that may seriously affect braking efficiency and safety.

Things to watch for

 Scraping or grinding noise coming from the brakes

 Test of Brake fluid indicates a copper content of 200 ppm or greater
indicating the need for a fluid replacement
 Brake pedal feels soft or spongy when the brakes pedal is depressed
 Vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied
 Brake fluid level in master cylinder low
 Brake system Warning Lamp stays illuminated

How long does it take to stop an automobile?

MPH Reaction Time (ft) Braking Distance (ft) Total (ft)

15 16 12 28

25 27 32 59

30 33 47 80

45 50 104 154

55 61 155 216

70 77 252 329

 DRIVING SKILLS- Driving is the controlled operation and movement of

a motorized vehicle with wheels, such as a car, motorcycle, truck, or busby
either a human or computer controller.

How to improve your driving skills? Here are the tips;

a. If you have access to vehicles of different makes and models, switch

them often. This way you'll be working on driving as a whole, not on
driving a specific car.
b. Find a training lot. A disused airfield is the best idea, because it has long
straight stretches (the runway), corners (turn way to runway entrance) and
wide open spaces (the area in front of the hangars). If you are not so lucky as
to have a disused airfield nearby, you may look for these three things
separately. You may use abandoned country roads and disused parking lots
that measure at least 50 by 50 feet.
c. When you practice, focus not on the driving itself, but on feeling the
behavior of the vehicle. This includes lateral stability, acceleration, braking
distance, etc. When you learn how to feel the vehicle, you'll be able to drive
anything at its verge.
d. Think of any hypothetical situation you may encounter, e.g flat tire,
high-speed under-/over steer, pursuit driving, etc. Think what you must
do in that particular case, then get in the car and do it. Make a note of your
weak points and work to improve them.
e. Handbrake turning is not only for showing off. It's the best way to correct
high-speed under steer. It's also useful on icy roads. It gives you confidence
on rough road.
f. Practice emergency stopping. If your car has ABS, disable it when you
practice.
g. Identify each dangerous situation when you drive and remember
it. Then, when you have the time, think of what you could've done better and
practice the preventive measures and maneuvers
h. Learn to drive backwards using only the side view mirrors. Once you get
the knack of it, it's one of the most useful skills a driver can have.
 i. Practice emergency in-turn braking. Do it in a wide empty lot, not on the
road.
j. Test the brakes soon after you start down the road.

CHECK THE VEHICLE

CONTENTS:
1. Oil level
2. Brake fluid level
3. Battery electrolytes
4. Tire pressure
5. Clutch fluid
6. Position of driving gear
7. Lighting and warning devices

 OIL LEVEL

How to check your vehicle’s oil level?

You should check your car’s oil at least once a month to make sure that there’s
enough oil and that it isn’t contaminated. Oil reduces the friction in your engine
and keeps it running smoothly. When you check your oil, if it is dirty or smells of
gasoline, it’s time for your oil to be changed. You should also check the levels using
the oil dipstick – if you’re oil is clean but only reaches the “Add” part of the dipstick,
you’ll need to add more oil.
The process for how to check your oil is simple and involves using the dip stick to
see levels and test quality. To find out whether your vehicle needs oil, follow these
steps:

1. Pull out the dip stick and wipe it off on a clean, lint-free rag.
Be sure the engine is cold (or has been off for at
least ten minutes) before you check the oil. The
location of the oil dipstick depends on whether
your vehicle has an in-line engine (rear-wheel
drive) as shown here.

If you have a transverse engine (front-wheel drive) your

dipstick should be located near the front of the engine,
as shown here.

2. Insert the stick back into the pipe.

If the dipstick gets stuck on the way in, turn it around. The pipe it fits into is
curved, and the metal stick bends naturally in the direction of the curve if you put it
back in the way it came out.

3. Pull the dipstick out again and look at the film of oil on the end of the stick.
Note how high the oil film reaches on the dipstick and the condition of the oil,
and add or change the oil as needed.
You don’t add oil into the tiny tube that the dipstick sits in; that’s just asking
for messy frustration. Look for a screw-off cap on top of the largest part of the
engine. It could be blank or it could be labeled “Oil Cap” or something
similar, and it might even indicate which grade of oil you ought to be using in
your car. Unscrew that cap and add oil as needed.
4. Put the dipstick back into the pipe. You’re done!

 BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

Many of the symptoms associated with a brake problem are the result of brake fluid
issues. Fortunately, checking your brake fluid level is a relatively easy process—just
follow the steps below and have your car manual handy.

1. Open the hood of your car and find the brake master cylinder.

The cylinder is usually on the driver’s side of the car, toward the back of the engine
compartment. Your manual should also include an illustration of your engine
compartment that includes the location of the master cylinder.

The brake master cylinder is small and rectangular and has a plastic reservoir and
a rubber cap on top, with small metal tubes leading from the cylinder. The cap on
top usually reads “use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container.”

2. Check the fluid level.

Most reservoirs are usually marked with “minimum” and “maximum” fill lines; the
brake fluid level should be between them. Newer cars have a translucent reservoir
which allows you to see how high the brake fluid level is without taking off the cap,
but you may have to remove the cap on older cars to check the level.

3. If the brake fluid level is low, fill it up.

Before you fill up the master cylinder reservoir, check with your car manual to see
what grade of brake fluid your car needs—most cars use Department of
Transportation (DOT) 3 or 4. If your reservoir is split in two, fill both halves.
Reservoirs should be filled up to the “Maximum” line.

4. If the fluid level is low, check your lines.

A low brake fluid level in the master cylinder indicates that you may have a brake
fluid leaking problem which may still persist even after you fill it up. If you have a
low fluid level, the next step is to check your brake lines.

 BATTERY ELECTROLYTES

Liquid electrolyte plays a key role in transporting the positive Lithium ions between
the cathode and anode. High purity electrolytes are a core component of li-ion
batteries. The most commonly used electrolyte is comprised of lithium salt, such
as LiPF6 in an organic solution.

The Chemical Composition of Lead-Acid Battery Electrolyte

When a lead acid battery is fully charged, the electrolyte is composed of a solution
that consists of up to 40 percent sulfuric acid, with the remainder consisting of
regular water. As the battery discharges, the positive and negative plates gradually
turn into lead sulfate. The electrolyte loses much of its sulfuric acid content and
eventually becomes a very weak solution of sulfuric acid and water.

Since this is a reversible chemical process, charging a car battery causes the
positive plates to turn back into lead oxide, while the negative plates turn back into
pure, spongy lead, and the electrolyte becomes a stronger solution of sulfuric acid
and water.

Adding Water to Battery Electrolyte

Under normal circumstances, the sulfuric acid content in battery electrolyte never
has to be added to, but the water does have to be topped off from time to time.

The reason is that the water is lost during the electrolysis process. Water content in
the electrolyte also tends to evaporate, especially during hot weather, and it is lost
when that happens. The sulfuric acid, on the other hand, doesn’t go anywhere. In
fact, evaporation is actually one way to obtain sulfuric acid from battery electrolyte.

If you add water to the electrolyte in a battery before damage occurs, the existing
sulfuric acid—either in solution or present as lead sulfate—will ensure that the
electrolyte will still consist of about 25 to 40 percent sulfuric acid.

Adding Acid to Battery Electrolyte

There usually isn’t any reason to add additional sulfuric acid to a battery, but there
are some exceptions. For instance, batteries are sometimes shipped dry, in which
case sulfuric acid must be added to the cells before the battery is used. If a battery
ever tips over, or electrolyte spills out for any other reason, then sulfuric acid will
have to be added back into the system to make up for what was lost. A hydrometer
or refract meter can be used to test the strength of the electrolyte.

Using Tap Water to Fill Battery Electrolyte

The last piece of the puzzle, and possibly the most important, is the type of water
used to top off the electrolyte in a battery.

While using tap water is fine in some situations, most battery manufacturers
recommend distilled or deionized water instead. The reason is that tap water
typically contains dissolved solids that can affect the function of a battery,
especially when dealing with hard water.

If the available tap water has an especially high level of dissolved solids, or the
water is hard, then it may be necessary to use distilled water. However, processing
the available tap water with an appropriate filter will often be enough to render the
water suitable for use in battery electrolyte.

 TIRE PRESSURE

How to Check Tire Pressure

Proper tire maintenance keeps you safe and your car running its best. One of the
most important—and most often overlooked—regular maintenance you should be
doing is checking the pressure of your tires regularly.

Car tires don't have to be punctured to leak air. And unlike your gasoline gauge,
most cars don't alert you to check your tire pressure. This guide will guide you
through how to properly check the pressure of your tires, and why you should keep
it at the top of your routine.

 Why Is Tire Pressure Important?

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, under-inflated

tires have a higher risk of damage and failure. Not only will they wear out faster if
under-inflated, but faster deterioration can also lead to reduced control of your
vehicle, tire blowouts, and crashes.
In addition to safety, there's also an environmental and economic benefit to keeping
your tires full of air. Gas mileage is reduced by .2% for every 1 PSI (pound per
square inch) your tire pressure drops below the recommended level. By keeping
your tires inflated to the proper pressure, you could save yourself up to 3% in gas
mileage, depending on your vehicle and driving habits.

Not only are you saving more money in reduced visits to the gas pump, but you're
also ensuring our planet continues to grow and thrive for drivers of the future.

 PSI Explained

Open your car's glove compartment, pull out your owner's manual, and look up
“tires." You should find details including front and rear “PSI" listings. PSI stands
for pounds per square inch. This number is determined by your vehicle's
manufacturer, and it’s how you can tell if your tires are properly inflated.

PSI is based on your vehicles:

 Total weight and size.
 Towing weight capability.
 Recommended tire size.

It's important to note that you should always use the pressure recommended by
your vehicle's manufacturer to ensure optimal vehicle performance. This means you
need to ensure that your tires are appropriate for your vehicle, and that the PSI
recommended for the tire matches what your vehicle's manufacturer recommends
for your car.

 When to Check Tire Pressure

Even brand new tires with minimal wear and tear lose air constantly. Factors that
can affect tire pressure include:
 Hot or cold temperatures.
 Driving distance.
 Towing or carrying added weight in your vehicle.
Most tire and vehicle manufacturers recommend checking your tire's pressure each
month, as they can lose multiple pounds of pressure within that time from simple
daily use.

In addition, it's important to check pressure as temperatures heat up. Tires react
quickly to changes in temperature, and a rise in heat can cause rapid pressure loss.

Leaky valve systems, low leaking punctures, and other often hidden damage can
also decrease air pressure—all the more reason to check your tires regularly.

 How to Check Your Tire Pressure

Checking tire pressure is easy. You can do it right at home or at the gas
station. Just be sure you check the pressure when your tires are cold, or haven't
been driven in several hours. This will give you the most accurate reading.

The most important piece of equipment you need is an accurate tire pressure gauge.
You can find battery-operated digital gauges, or more traditional stick-type
gauge found at most gas stations. A good gauge shouldn't set you back more than
$15—a worthwhile investment for a longer life for your tires.

Make sure you have your manufacturer's PSI handy when you're checking your tire
pressure, and then follow these steps:
 Remove the end caps on your tires' air valves (don't lose them!).
 Place the tire pressure gauge into the valve stem and press down quickly to get
a reading.
 Check the PSI reading. Compare that to your vehicle's recommended PSI.
o It can often be tricky to get the gauge to press fully onto the valve,
resulting in an off reading—so take a few readings to eliminate any
anomalies.
 If the reading is above the recommendation, push in the valve to let out some
air (you might have to do this a few times to get it right).
 If the PSI reading is below the recommendation, fill your tire with air until you
reach the ideal level (this may also take a few tries).
In all, checking the air pressure on your tires should take just a few minutes and is
well worth the savings and protection you'll gain!

 Signs You Need New Tires

By checking tire pressure once a month, you'll get a good idea how they are
performing. If your tires are fairly new and continue to leak air, you should consult
your dealer or mechanic. You may have a faulty valve or other damage that is
difficult to detect... which could unfortunately result in the need to replace the tires
completely. But with proactive maintenance, you could catch an issue before it
becomes a problem, and just end up needing a small repair.

 CLUTCH FLUID

How to check clutch fluid? Here are the east steps;

1. Open the car's hood. It's best to do so when

the car is stopped on a level surface, with the engine
cold.

2. Look for the clutch fluid reservoir. On most

cars with hydraulic clutches, the clutch fluid
reservoir is located near the brake master cylinder
at the back of the engine bay but is smaller than
the brake fluid reservoir. If in doubt as to where to
look, consult with your car's owner's manual.

3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The

reservoir should either be filled to the top, or filled
to between the minimum and maximum lines shown on the reservoir, depending on the
car in question. On most new cars, the reservoir will be made of translucent plastic,
while older cars may have metal reservoirs, requiring you to remove the reservoir cap
before you can see the fluid level.

4. Add fluid to the reservoir. Pour the fluid carefully

into the reservoir, wiping up any spills.
 Hydraulic clutches use the same type of fluid as
hydraulic brake systems. Use the fluid with the
DOT specification recommended in your car's
owner's manual.

5. Replace the reservoir cap and close the

hood. Be sure the gasket on the cap seats
correctly.

SELECT MEASURING INSTRUMENT

CONTENTS:

1. Types of measuring instruments and applications.

2. Techniques in measuring parts/components.
3. Methods of calculating/solving mathematical problems.

 TYPES OF MEASURING INSTRUMENTS AND APPLICATIONS

Types of Precision Measuring Instruments Used in Industry

1. Vernier Caliper: It is an instrument used to measure internal and external

dimensions of an object with a great accuracy. It is provided with inward jaws and
outward jaws to facilitate the measurement. A screw clamp is provided that can
lock the position of the vernier scale, so that the instrument can be moved without
disturbing the reading. A manually operated vernier caliper has a main scale (in
millimeters or inches) and a sliding vernier scale attached to the movable jaw, as
shown in the figure.

2. Micrometer Screw Gauge: To measure diameter of thin wire or thickness of thin

metal sheets with accuracy, micrometer screw gauge is
very useful. It has U-shape frame with fixed sleeve.
Rotating thimble movement is converted to linear
movement of spindle. Main scale and vernier scale are
displayed on sleeve and thimble respectively.

3. Dial Indicators: Measurement of deflection is needed in many industrial

applications. Examples of this include measurement of the movement of a car body
while testing in bending moments and checking the waviness of a
surface of a machined component. In both cases, small linear
displacements are to be measured with accuracy. Dial indicators,
mounted on magnetic stand provide accurate measurements of
deflection for the parts under study. They are also available in an
electronic version.
4. Height Gauge and Surface plate: Accurate height measurement of machined
components can be done with a height gauge placed on a surface plate. The working
principle of a height gauge is similar to the vernier caliper. It is
available in all the three types, i.e. with a conventional vernier
scale or dial gauge or a digital display. The surface plate is a
thick solid granite plate placed horizontal to the ground. A
sharp pointed scriber is provided on the gauge to make a mark
on the object. The object to be measured for height is placed on
the surface plate. With the help of an adjusting screw, the
scriber can be moved up and down.

 TECHNIQUES IN MEASURING PARTS/COMPONENTS

  METHODS OF CALCULATING/SOLVING MATHEMATICAL PROBLEMS.

General Problem-Solving Steps

Step 1: Understand the Problem

The first step is to read the statement of the problem carefully to make sure you
understand the information given and the problem you are being asked to solve.

Step 2: Carry Out a Strategy for Solving the Problem

Solving a mathematics problem requires more than understanding a description of

the problem that is, more than understanding the quantities, the data, the
conditions, the unknowns, and all other mathematical facts related to the problem.
It requires determining what mathematical facts to use and when and how to use
those facts to develop a solution to the problem. It requires a strategy.

Step 3: Check Your Answer

When you arrive at an answer, you should check that it is reasonable and
computationally correct.
 Have you answered the question that was asked?
 Is your answer reasonable in the context of the question? Checking that an
answer is reasonable can be as simple as recalling a basic mathematical fact and
checking whether your answer is consistent with that fact. For example, the
probability of an event must be between 0 and 1, inclusive, and the area of a
geometric figure must be positive. In other cases, you can use estimation to
check that your answer is reasonable. For example, if your solution involves
adding three numbers, each of which is between 100 and 200, estimating the
sum tells you that the sum must be between 300 and 600.

STRATEGIES
Strategy 1: Translate from Words to an Arithmetic or Algebraic Representation

Word problems are often solved by translating textual information into an

arithmetic or algebraic representation. For example, an “odd integer” can be
represented by the expression 2n +1, where n is an integer; and the statement “the
cost of a taxi trip is $3.00, plus $1.25 for each mile” can be represented by the
expression c = 3 + 1.25m. More generally, translation occurs when you understand a
word problem in mathematical terms in order to model the problem
mathematically.

Strategy 2: Translate from Words to a Figure or Diagram

To solve a problem in which a figure is described but not shown, draw your own
figure. Draw the figure as accurately as possible, labeling as many parts as possible,
including any unknowns.

Drawing figures can help in geometry problems as well as in other types of

problems. For example, in probability and counting problems, drawing a diagram
can sometimes make it easier to analyze the relevant data and to notice
relationships and dependencies.

Strategy 3: Translate from an Algebraic to a Graphical Representation

Many algebra problems can be represented graphically in a coordinate system,

whether the system is a number line if the problem involves one variable, or a
coordinate plane if the problem involves two variables. Such graphs can clarify
relationships that may be less obvious in algebraic presentations.

Strategy 4: Translate from a Figure to an Arithmetic or Algebraic Representation

When a figure is given in a problem, it may be effective to express relationships

among the various parts of the figure using arithmetic or algebra.

Strategy 5: Simplify an Arithmetic or Algebraic Representation

Arithmetic and algebraic representations include both expressions and equations.

Your facility in simplifying a representation can often lead to a quick solution.
Examples include converting from a percent to a decimal, converting from one
measurement unit to another, combining like terms in an algebraic expression, and
simplifying an equation until its solutions are evident

Strategy 6: Add to a Geometric Figure

Sometimes you can add useful lines, points, or circles to a geometric figure to
facilitate solving a problem. You can also add any given information—as well as any
new information as you derive it—to the figure to help you see relationships within
the figure more easily, for example, the length of a line segment or the measure of
an angle.
Strategy 7: Find a Pattern

Patterns are found throughout mathematics. Identifying a pattern is often the first
step in understanding a complex mathematical situation. Pattern recognition yields
insight that may point in the direction of a complete solution to the problem or
simply help you generate a hypothesis, which requires further exploration using
another strategy. In a problem where you suspect there is a pattern but don’t
recognize it yet, working with particular instances can help you identify the
pattern. Once a pattern is identified, it can be used to answer questions.

Strategy 8: Search for a Mathematical Relationship

More general than patterns, mathematical relationships exist throughout

mathematics. Problems may involve quantities that are related algebraically, sets
that are related logically, or figures that are related geometrically. Also, there may
be relationships between information given textually, algebraically, graphically, etc.
To express relationships between quantities, it is often helpful to introduce one or
more variables to represent the quantities. Once a relationship is understood and
expressed, it is often the key to solving a problem.

Strategy 9: Estimate

Sometimes it is not necessary to perform extensive calculations to solve a problem—

it is sufficient to estimate the answer. The degree of accuracy needed depends on
the particular question being asked. Care should be taken to determine how far off
your estimate could possibly be from the actual answer to the question. Estimation
can also be used to check whether the answer to a question is reasonable.

Strategy 10: Trial and Error

For some problems, the fastest way to a solution is to make a reasonable guess at
the answer, check it, and then improve on your guess. This is especially useful if the
number of possible answers is limited. In other problems, this approach may help
you at least to understand better what is going on in the problem.

Strategy 11: Divide into Cases

Some problems are quite complex. To solve such problems you may need to divide
them into smaller, less complex problems, which are restricted cases of the original
problem. When you divide a problem into cases, you should consider whether or not
to include all possibilities. For example, if you want to prove that a certain
statement is true for all integers, it may be best to show that it is true for all
positive integers, then show it is true for all negative integers, and then show it is
true for zero. In doing that, you will have shown that the statement is true for all
integers, because each integer is either positive, negative, or zero.

Strategy 12: Adapt Solutions to Related Problems

When solving a new problem that seems similar to a problem that you know how to
solve, you can try to solve the new problem by adapting the solution—both the
strategies and the results—of the problem you know how to solve.

If the differences between the new problem and the problem you know how to solve
are only surface features—for example, different numbers, different labels, or
different categories—that is, features that are not fundamental to the structure of
the problem, then solve the new problem using the same strategy as you used
before.

 CARRY OUT MEASUREMENT AND CALCULATION

Conversion of units of measurement from English-metric and vice versa.

English Metric

Inches (in) x 2.54 = centimeters

Feet (ft) x .3 = meters
Yards (yd) x .9 = meters
Miles (mi) x 1.6 = kilometers
Square inches (in2) x 6.5 = square centimeters
Square feet (ft2) x .1 = square meters
Square yards (yd2) x .8 = square meters
Acres x .4 = hectares
Cubic feet (ft3) x .03 = cubic meters
Cords (cd) x 3.6 = cubic meters
Quarts (lq) (qt) x .9 = liters
Gallons (gal) x .004 = liters
Ounces (avdp) (oz) x 28.4 = grams
Pounds (avdp) (lb) x .5 = kilograms
Horsepower (hp) x .7 = kilowatts

Metric to English
Metric English

Centimeters (cm) x .39 = inches

Meters (m) x 3.3 = feet
Meters (m) x 1.1 = yards
Kilometers (km) x .6 = miles
Sq. centimeters (cm2) x .2 = square inches
Square meters (m2) x 10.8 = square feet
Square meters (m2) x 1.2 = square yards
Hectares (ha) x 2.5 = acres
Cubic meters (m3) x 35.3 = cubic feet
Liters (l) x 1.1 = quarts (lq)
Cubic meters (m3) x 284.2 = gallons
Grams (g) x .04 = ounces (avdp)
Kilograms (kg) x 2.2 = pounds (avdp)
Kilowatts (kW) x 1.3 = horsepower

Units of Length and Measure

Length

12 inches ........................ 1 foot

36 inches or 3 feet .............. 1 yard
1760 yards or 5280 feet .......... 1 mile

Liquid Measure

8 ounces ........................................ 1 cup

16 ounces or 2 cups ............................. 1 pint
32 ounces or 4 cups or 2 pints .................. 1 quart
64 ounces or 4 pints or 2 quarts ................ 1/2 gallon
128 ounces or 16 cups or 8 pints or 4 quarts .... 1 gallon

LO1. IDENTIFY TYPES OF LUBRICANTS/COOLANT

CONTENTS:
1. Lubrication schedules
2. Uses of coolants
3. Properties of lubricant and coolant
4. Types of lubricant and application
5. Hazards associated with lubricants.

 LUBRICATION SCHEDULES
 USES OF COOLANTS
What Coolant Does
Coolant consists of a mixture of water and antifreeze that is stored in the car’s
radiator. A good rule of thumb is to mix them 50/50, but more antifreeze in the mix
increases the boiling point and decreases the freezing point. Generally speaking, a
50/50 mix is more than adequate for the kinds of conditions the engine faces. As the
engine burns the gasoline, nearly 1/3 of the energy produced ends up as waste,
either in the form of excess heat energy or exhaust. The heat energy that remains in
the engine cannot simply be allowed to sit and fester. That is how overheating and
eventual breakdown happen.

The coolant mixture is moved through the engine by means of a water

pump. The water circulates through the engine, absorbs the excess heat
energy and carries it to the radiator. There, through a process of heat
exchange, the heat is dispelled, the water is cooled and sent circulating
through the system again. The radiator is positioned to receive an inflow
of outside air constantly to help cool the water.

Why Coolant is Important

Without coolant, the heat produced through constant internal combustion

would destroy the engine very quickly. Water alone is not entirely
adequate to keep the system cool, for the high temperatures inside the
motor would eventually boil it off. In time, the water in the system would
evaporate entirely. Likewise, in very cold weather, the water would freeze
when the car sat idle, rendering the cooling system useless. For these
reasons, the mix of antifreeze is vital to the proper working of the coolant
system.

The coolant in a car’s cooling system needs to be inspected every so often

to protect against corrosion. While the main component of antifreeze,
ethylene glycol does not expire, any additives to inhibit corrosion
eventually do. This makes it a requirement that you change the coolant
every 30,000 miles. The radiator, too, must be in good working order. If
rust builds up, the heat exchanger may fail to function properly and lead
to problems down the road.

 PROPERTIES OF LUBRICANT AND COOLANT

Most important properties of coolants:

o Good cooling and lubrication,
 o Prevention of corrosion,
o Physical, chemical and technological stability during use,
o No harmful effects on human health,
o No excessive foaming.

Cooling during machining A sufficient amount of a coolant needs to be supplied at a

certain pressure to the worked area during machining in order to perform this
function. If the coolant is not supplied to the right place, its effects are suboptimal.
The figures show the points/places to which the coolant needs to be supplied for
individual types of grinding. Reducing the amount of a coolant because it is sprayed
around the work area may cause defects on the work piece (cracks, thermal changes
and similar problems). During work and after it, the grinding wheel should not
remain immersed in the coolant, because it might break during next use due to
imbalance. When work is completed, the grinding wheel should be centrifuged to
prevent damage upon reuse. Newer machines are constructed in such a way that
the machining zone and thus also the cooling zone are enclosed and the coolant
cannot be sprayed around.

 TYPES OF LUBRICANT AND APPLICATION

4 Types of Lubricants and How to Use Them

OILS

Oils are thin liquids made of long polymer chains, with additives for various extra properties.
Common additives include antioxidants to keep the oil from oxidizing, corrosion inhibitors to
prevent parts from corroding, and detergents to keep deposits from forming. These long chains
are hard to squeeze out from between surfaces, making oils useful as a slippery barrier between
them. Oils come in different “weights” (such as 5W or 10W), which correspond to viscosity. The
lower the number, the thinner the oil, and the more easily it will flow.

Uses: Hinges, bearings, tool maintenance, sharpening blades

Types: Motor oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, bar and chain oil

Use When:
• You want to lubricate something without the resistance inherent in using grease
• You need lubrication to wick into a small space, without having to take anything apart

Don’t Use When:

• The surfaces being lubricated are exposed to dust or dirt, which can eventually gum up and
cause more friction
• You need to keep things around the surfaces clean, because oils are low in viscosity and thus
tend to drip and run
• The surfaces are exposed to water or anything that can wash the oil away. It won’t last long!
(While oil can help make things water resistant, it can also absorb water over time. The more water
that absorbs into the oil, the lower its adhesion will be, causing it to wash off of the very parts that
need lubrication.)

GREASES

Greases are made by using oil (typically mineral oil) and mixing it with thickeners
(such as lithium-based soaps). They may also contain additional lubricating
particles, such as graphite, molybdenum disulfide, or polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE, aka teflon). Greases combine the lubricating properties of oils with added
stickiness, allowing the lubricant to adhere to the surfaces better. Greases can even
act as a barrier, protecting the surfaces from contaminants that can corrode or
damage them. Like oils, greases come in a range of consistencies, from ketchup-thin
to thick like cheddar cheese. One downside to grease is that because it’s so thick
and sticky, it can cause
resistance in small or fast-
moving mechanisms.

Uses: Gears, bearings, chains,

linkages

Types: White lithium grease, marine grease, silicone grease

Use When:
• You need lubrication to stay put and stick to surfaces for a long time
• You want to seal out contaminants such as water or dust
• You use a machine so infrequently that you may forget to oil it

Don’t Use When:

• You have fine or fast-moving mechanisms where thick grease would create too
much resistance
• You don’t want a mess. When parts move, they can fling grease all around, so it
may not be the best option for keeping things clean
PENETRATING LUBRICANTS

Any shade-tree mechanic would agree that these types of lubricants deserve their
own special section. Penetrating lubricants are the saviors of many stuck-bolt
combatants, loosening years of rust and debris in minutes. Contrary to the other
substances covered here, penetrating oils are not designed for long-lasting
lubrication. Instead, they are low-viscosity oils with additives that are specifically
designed for one purpose: to infiltrate the tiny cracks between surfaces (such as
screw threads), add lubrication, and break up rust.

There are a lot of different penetrating oils out there, but did you know that you can
make your own low-cost penetrating oil that outperforms almost all of them? In an
experiment conducted by Drexel University engineering students, they found that a
mixture of vegetable oil and acetone works as well (or better) than WD-40 at
loosening stuck bolts.

It’s easy to make! Just mix up a solution that’s 90% vegetable oil and 10% acetone,
and squirt it wherever necessary. Be careful when mixing, as acetone is flammable,
and will melt many plastic containers. If possible, use a glass or metal container to
mix it, or buy an oil can to make things even easier. Also, be sure to shake the
mixture before each use, as acetone and vegetable oil tend to separate over time.

DRY LUBRICANTS

Dry lubricants are made up of lubricating particles such as

graphite, molybdenum disulfide, silicone, or PTFE. At the
molecular level, these particles are super slippery, so they reduce
the friction between surfaces in contact with one another. It’s
common to find these lubricants in spray form, where they are
mixed with water, alcohol, or some other solvent that will
evaporate away after application, leaving behind a thin film.

Uses: 3D printer rails, threaded rods, locks, hinges

Types: Graphite powder or spray, molybdenum disulfide spray, (dry) silicone spray,
PTFE spray
Use When:
• You have tiny parts that shouldn’t be gunked up by grease or oil that will attract
dust
• You need to keep surrounding surfaces clean
• Your surfaces are exposed to extremely high heat or pressure, which would
typically oxidize oils

Don’t Use When:

• Your surfaces are exposed to solvents or other liquids that can wash them away.

https://makezine.com/2016/09/15/skill-builder-lubricants/

 HAZARDS ASSOCIATED WITH LUBRICANTS

Safety Tips for Handling Industrial Lubricants

Workplace accidents and safety incidents can be prevented. Post-accident

investigations reveal that many of these mishaps could have been avoided if
personnel were more fully aware of workplace hazards and applicable critical safety
guidelines. Understanding basic safety precautions when working with lubricants is
important for any employee working in an industrial plant, and especially gear-
manufacturing operations. Below are a series of guidelines that can help lubrication
specialists recognize the potential hazards associated with handling, storing, and
using petroleum products.

High-Pressure Injection Hazards

High-pressure injection injuries, also known as grease gun injuries, are caused by
the accidental injection of a foreign material--such as grease, oil, or solvent under
pressure--through the skin and into the underlying tissue. This is analogous to
medical techniques used to administer immunization shots without a needle. A
grease gun injury can cause serious delayed soft tissue damage and should be
treated as a surgical emergency. Any person sustaining an injury of this sort should
seek immediate medical attention, regardless of the appearance of the wound or its
size. Accidents involving injection injuries can occur when using any type of
pressurized equipment. Two common cases in which petroleum products may be
involved are accidents with pressurized grease guns or with hydraulic systems.

Pressurized grease guns are commonly used in service stations, garages, and
industrial plants. Typically, most service stations have grease guns operating at
621-1,034 kPa (90-150 psi) air pressure. Most modern industrial hydraulic systems
operate in the range of 13,790 to 34,475 kPa (2,000 to 5,000 psi). A stream of oil
ejected from a nozzle or leak under pressure of this magnitude has a velocity
comparable to the muzzle velocity of a rifle bullet.

The most common sites of injury are the fingers or hand. However, any part of the
body can be involved. With grease guns, especially, accidents usually occur when
the injured person wipes the tip of the nozzle with his finger or the nozzle slips off
the grease fitting while being held in place. Grease may also be injected into the
body from a leak in the grease line. In hydraulic system accidents, a leak in a
hydraulic line can emit a high-velocity stream of oil and cause injury if it strikes a
person. Workers are commonly injured when they try to stop the leak by covering it
with their hand or finger.

Chemical irritation is not a major problem with most petroleum products because
hydraulic oils and greases are generally non-irritating and present low toxicity to
the skin. However, the resulting bacterial infection can be a problem because of the
damaged tissue and circulation in the wound, even though it has been surgically
opened and the foreign material removed. One of the dangers from this type of
injury is that it is not recognized quickly by the injured person as being serious.
Often the initial wound may be very small and essentially painless. The injured
person may even continue working. However, in every case in which a person
receives this type of injury, he should stop work and get immediate medical
treatment. The following are some basic rules that must be observed are found in
the sidebar at right.

In case of a grease gun accident, seek immediate medical treatment. Identify the
grease or oil involved in the accident. Contact the supplier or the manufacturer to
obtain the product's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) about possible toxicity if a
physician or hospital needs more information.

Mechanical Hazards
Handling Drums: A typical 55-gallon drum of oil or grease weighs nearly 450
pounds (204 kg). If a drum is dropped, it may bounce out of control or burst at a
seam, creating a spill and/or fire hazard. Two people should overturn or upend a
drum to prevent muscle strains and other injuries. When rolling a drum, always
keep its motion in check; never allow it to free roll. When hoisting a drum, use a
drum sling that hooks over the ends of the drum. Do not use air pressure to empty a
drum as it may burst open.

Oil and Grease Spills: Oil or grease spilled on floors, catwalks, and ladders can
present fall and fire hazards. Wipe up lubricant spills immediately or use absorbent
drying pads or granules. Repair or report sources of lubricant leaks. In the oil house
or storage area, replace leaky dispensing devices, keep drip pails in place, and wipe
up any spills.

Application to Machines: Do not apply lubricants to machines in operation unless

the machine is equipped with central lubrication systems or the fittings and oil caps
are piped out to a safe place. Do not reach over, under, through, or past moving
parts of machinery. For machinery requiring lubrication during operation, refer to
OEM recommendations for safety procedures. For machinery that specifically
requires shutdown for lubrication, ensure that the machinery is properly locked and
tagged out of service.

Machine Guards: Guards on belt or chain drives, open gears, couplings, etc., should
be removed only after the machine is shut down and properly locked and tagged out
of service. Replace guards promptly after lubrication work is done and report
damaged guards or places where guards are needed.

Ladders and Work Lifts: A ladder should be of suitable material; for example, a
metal ladder or lift should not be used where there is possible contact with electrical
wiring or equipment. Use ladders of the proper length; do not overextend extension
ladders. The ladder or lift should be inspected to be sure that the safety feet, rungs,
and slide rails are in good condition and free of oil and grease. Use both hands when
climbing; carry equipment in a sling, bag, or pockets, or hoist it up to the point of
use.

Safe Clothing: Follow plant rules for the proper kind of safety shoes, hats, goggles,
glasses, gloves, or special clothing. Do not wear loose or torn clothing that can be
caught in moving parts of a machine. Wear long sleeves in the vicinity of hot
surfaces.

Hand Tools: Take special care when using hand tools. Use the right tool for the job;
do not improvise or change its configuration for a purpose for which it was not
intended. High-pressure grease guns can develop several thousand pounds of
pressure and a grease jet from a grease gun can pierce the skin.

Hazards to the Skin: The skin may be sensitive to prolonged exposure to petroleum
products such as cutting fluids, solvents, and rust preventatives. Irritation, itching,
or skin rashes (dermatitis) may develop. To prevent trouble or escalation, wear
rubber gloves whenever possible. Wash hands and affected skin areas frequently
with mild soap and warm water. Launder oil-soaked clothes and get first aid for
cuts and scratches exposed to petroleum products. Good standards of care, and
personal and plant hygiene, are advised when handling lubricating products.
Fire Hazards
Most petroleum products will burn. Lube oils and greases have relatively high flash
points, but solvents, kerosene, diesel fuel, and gasoline have much lower flash
points and will burn readily. Do not use gasoline for cleaning and do not smoke
around any petroleum product.

In Case of Fire: In the event of a fire, sound the alarm and dial 911 (or your plant's
emergency line). Do not let the fire cut off your escape route. Stay upwind and do
not breathe any more smoke than is necessary, since smoke from certain petroleum
fires can be dangerous. Firefighting should only be performed by designated and
trained individuals. For extinguishing agent, dry chemical, foam, and carbon
dioxide (CO2) are recommended. Water can also be used, but be cautious of using a
solid stream of water as it can disperse across the affected area and will conduct
electricity if sprayed directly on a live electrical panel. Use of water sprays should
be left to trained firefighting personnel.

Oily Rags: Keep oily rags in a labeled, closed, oily waste can. Rags soaked with
paint or linseed oil should not be kept in a closed container, but instead should be
hung up to dry and then disposed of according to plant practices and governmental
regulations.

Handling Solvents: Many solvents emit enough vapor to form flammable mixtures
with air. Any spark, even from static electricity, can cause a fire. Before opening or
dispensing solvents or fuels, make sure the containers are grounded, either with
ground wires, metal to metal contact between containers, or direct contact with the
ground. Handle solvents in well-ventilated areas and keep containers closed when
not in use.

Hazards to Lungs
Dangerous vapors, mists, or dusts can form in plant working areas, and prolonged
exposure can be hazardous. If overexposed, get out of the area and get first aid. Do
not enter any large confined spaces such as empty tanks, vats, kettles, etc., alone
and without checking for oxygen deficiency with approved measuring devices.
Regardless of toxicity levels, approved respiratory devices are recommended for use
in these areas. Always use the "two-man rule" when working in these spaces and
talk to each other frequently. If entering into a confined space wear approved
ropes/harnesses, especially in dark areas. Consult your local and state officials for
published Lower Explosive Limits (LEL) and Permissible Exposure Limits (PEL). (
Donlon , 2005)
LO2. USE AND APPLY LUBRICANTS/COOLANT
CONTENTS:

 LUBRICATION SCHEDULE
 HAZARDS ASSOCIATED WITH LUBRICANT
 LUBRICATION PROCEDURE
 TECHNIQUES IN HANDLING LUBRICANTS
 PERSONAL SAFETY PROCEDURES
 USE AND CARE OF TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

LO3. PERFORM HOUSEKEEPING ACTIVITIES

CONTENTS:

 WORKSHOP POLICY AND PROCEDURE

  MAINTENANCE AND STORAGE OF SHOP CLEANING EQUIPMENT
 USE AND STORAGE OF CLEANING CHEMICALS
 SHOP SAFETY PRACTICES
Student Shop Safety Rules

 Safety glasses with side shields or goggles are to be worn at all times while in
the shop. Bring your own glasses.
 No loose fitting clothing allowed when working in the shop.
 No open toe shoes or sandals allowed in shop.
 Two persons must be in shop to operate mill or lathe unless authorized.
 Door to shop must remain open while using shop.
 All users must sign in before using shop.
 Students must have prints or drawings of parts with dimensions, hole locations,
thread sizes, and other machining information prior to machining.
 Users must clean up area used every time work is finished. If you have not
completed your project and must leave the shop you must clean area prior to
leaving. Others may need to use the area in your absence.
 Students must clean and return all tools to proper location when finished.
 No tools are to be removed from shop without authorization.
 No horseplay allowed in shop. Do not distract anyone using equipment.
 Report all injuries to Russ Reynolds or Bryan Merritt immediately.
 Floor area where work was done must be swept after every use.
 Never enter the student shop through the main shop. If the door is locked, use
your key. If you don’t have a key you are not authorized to use the shop.
Always shut shop door when you leave if no one else is in the shop.
 Safety is your top priority when using the shop. If you are not sure what you are
doing, “ASK”.
 Never attempt to use equipment you have not received training on.
 Report any broken tools or machines immediately to main shop.
https://www.phys.ksu.edu/machine-shop/safety-rules/safety.htm

 HOUSEKEEPING PRACTICES
1. Prevent slips, trips and falls
2. Eliminate fire hazards
3. Control dust
4. Avoid tracking materials
5. Prevent falling objects
6. Clear clutter
http://www.safetyandhealthmagazine.com/articles/12470-tips-for-effective-
workplace-housekeeping

 5S
What is 5S

One of the most powerful Lean Manufacturing Tools and a cornerstone of any
successful implementation is that of 5S, but what is 5S and its 5 Steps of Seiri,
Seiton, Seiso, Seiketsu and Shitsuke?
5S is a simple tool for organizing your workplace in a clean, efficient and safe
manner to enhance your productivity, visual management and to ensure the
introduction of standardized working.
Most of the other definitions of 5S and descriptions that I see here on the internet
concentrate heavily on the aesthetics and the efficiency gains that you achieve
through implementing 5S and neglect the real aim of 5S; the need to introduce
standard operational practices to ensure efficient, repeatable, safe ways of working.
In addition to standardised working which provides you with a stable foundation to
build all of your other improvements through implementing Lean Tools, you also
provide a highly visual workplace. One of the most important factors of 5S is that it
makes problems immediately obvious.
5S is a team run process and should be conducted by the people who work within
the area in which the principles of 5S are being applied, it is not a tool that can be
applied by an outsider onto an area without the knowledge and cooperation of the
people within it.

The Concept of 5S
5S is a methodical way to organize your workplace and your working practices as
well as being an overall philosophy and way of working. It is split into 5 phases,
each named after a different Japanese term beginning with the letter “S”; (Seiri,
Seiton, Seiso, Seiketsu, Shitsuke) hence the name 5 S

5S Seiri; Sort, Clearing, Classify

5S Seiton; Straighten, Simplify, Set in order, Configure
5S Seiso; Sweep, shine, Scrub, Clean and Check
5S Seiketsu; Standardize, stabilize, Conformity
5S Shitsuke; Sustain, self discipline, custom and practice

5S Seiri or Sort
5S Seiri or Sort is the first step in 5S, it refers to the sorting of the clutter from the
other items within the work area that are actually needed. This stage requires the
team to remove all items that clearly do not belong in the working area and only
leave those that are required for the processes in question.
5S Seiton or Straighten / Set in order
5S Seiton or Straighten is the process of taking the required items that are
remaining after the removal of clutter and arranging them in an efficient manner
through the use of ergonomic principles and ensuring that every item “has a place
and that everything is in its place.”\

5S Seiso or Sweep / shine

5S Seiso or Sweep is the thorough cleaning of the area, tools, machines and other
equipment to ensure that everything is returned to a “nearly new” status. This will
ensure that any non-conformity stands out; such as an oil leak from a machine onto
a bright, newly painted clean floor.

5S Seiketsu or Standardize
5S Seiketsu or standardize is the process of ensuring that what we have done
within the first three stages of 5S become standardized; that is we ensure that we
have common standards and ways of working. Standard work is one of the most
important principles of Lean manufacturing.

5S Shitsuke or Sustain
The final stage is 5S Shitsuke or sustain, ensuring that the company continue to
continually improve using the previous stages of 5S, maintain housekeeping, and
conduct audits and so forth. 5S should become part of the culture of the business
and the responsibility of everyone in the organization.
http://leanmanufacturingtools.org/192/what-is-5s-seiri-seiton-seiso-seiketsu-
shitsuke/
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM SHOP MAINTENANCE

LO1. INSPECT AND CLEAN TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND WORK AREA

CONTENTS:
1. Workshop policies.
2. Types and usage of cleaning chemicals.
3. Safe handling of equipment and tools.
4. Service procedures.
5. Equipment maintenance standards.

TYPES AND USAGE OF CLEANING CHEMICALS

What are the chemical used for cleaning?

Alkaline. Alkaline cleaning agents contain strong bases like sodium hydroxide or
potassium hydroxide. Bleach (pH 12) and ammonia (pH 11) are
common alkalinecleaning agents. Often, dispersants, to prevent redeposition of
dissolved dirt, and chelants, to attack rust, are added to the alkaline agent.

LO2. STORE/ARRANGE TOOLS AND SHOP EQUIPMENT

CONTENTS:

1. Storage and disposal of hazardous/flammable tools/materials.

2. Personal safety procedures.
3. Relevant technical information
4. Labeling procedures
5. Principles of total quality management (TQM) and 5S

LO3. DISPOSE WASTE AND USED LUBRICANTS

CONTENTS:
 1. Effects of automotive wastes to men and its environment.
2. Waste management and disposal
3. Cleaning chemicals for grease and lubricants
4. Labeling procedures and technique

 WASTE MANAGEMENT AND DISPOSAL

Waste management and disposal - is the process of treating solid wastes and offers
variety of solutions for recycling items that don’t belong to trash. It is about how
garbage can be used as a valuable resource. Waste management is something that
each and every household and business owner in the world needs. Waste
management disposes of the products and substances that you have use in a safe
and efficient manner.

Various Methods of Waste Disposal

Landfills
Throwing daily waste/garbage in the landfills is the most popularly used method of
waste disposal used today. This process of waste disposal focuses attention on
burying the waste in the land. Landfills are commonly found in developing
countries. There is a process used that eliminates the odors and dangers of waste
before it is placed into the ground. While it is true this is the most popular form
of waste disposal, it is certainly far from the only procedure and one that may also
bring with it an assortment of space.

Incineration/Combustion

This process is also known as thermal treatment where solid waste materials are
converted by Incinerators into heat, gas, steam and ash. Incineration is something
that is very in countries where landfill space is no longer available, which includes
Japan.

Incineration or combustion is a type disposal method in which municipal solid

wastes are burned at high temperatures so as as to convert them into residue and
gaseous products. The biggest advantage of this type of method is that it can reduce
the volume of solid waste to 20 to 30 percent of the original volume, decreases the
space they take up and reduce the stress on landfills.

Recovery and Recycling

Resource recovery is the process of taking useful discarded items for a specific next use.
These discarded items are then processed to extract or recover materials and resources or
convert them to energy in the form of useable heat, electricity or fuel.

Recycling is the process of converting waste products into new products to prevent
energy usage and consumption of fresh raw materials. Recycling is the third component
of Reduce, Reuse and Recycle waste hierarchy. The idea behind recycling is to reduce
energy usage, reduce volume of landfills, reduce air and water pollution,
reduce greenhouse gas emissions and preserve natural resources for future use.

Plasma gasification

Plasma gasification is another form of waste management. Plasma is a primarily an

electrically charged or a highly ionized gas. Lighting is one type of plasma which
produces temperatures that exceed 12,600 °F . With this method of waste disposal,
a vessel uses characteristic plasma torches operating at +10,000 °F which
is creating a gasification zone till 3,000 °F for the conversion of solid or liquid
wastes into a syngas.

During the treatment solid waste by plasma gasification, the waste’s molecular
bonds are broken down as result of the intense heat in the vessels and the
elemental components. Thanks to this process, destruction of waste and dangerous
materials is found. This form of waste disposal provides renewable energy and an
assortment of other fantastic benefits.
Composting

Composting is a easy and natural bio-degradation process that takes organic wastes
i.e. remains of plants and garden and kitchen waste and turns into nutrient rich
food for your plants. Composting, normally used for organic farming, occurs by
allowing organic materials to sit in one place for months until microbes decompose
it. Composting is one of the best method of waste disposal as it can turn unsafe
organic products into safe compost. On the other side, it is slow process and takes
lot of space and turns it to

Waste to Energy (Recover Energy)

Waste to energy (WtE) process involves converting of non-recyclable waste

items into useable heat, electricity, or fuel through a variety of processes. This type
of source of energy is a renewable energy source as non-recyclable waste can be
used over and over again to create energy. It can also help to reduce carbon
emissions by offsetting the need for energy from fossil sources. Waste-to-Energy,
also widely recognized by its acronym WtE is the generation of energy in the form of
heat or electricity from waste.

Avoidance/Waste Minimization

The easier method of waste management is to reduce creation of waste materials

thereby reducing the amount of waste going to landfills. Waste reduction can be
done through recycling old materials like jar, bags, repairing broken items instead
of buying new one, avoiding use of disposable products like plastic bags, reusing
second hand items, and buying items that uses less designing.
Recycling and composting are a couple of the best methods of waste management.
Composting is so far only possible on a small scale, either by private individuals or
in areas where waste can be mixed with farming soil or used for landscaping
purposes. Recycling is widely used around the world, with plastic, paper and metal
leading the list of the most recyclable items. Most material recycled is reused for its
original purpose.

The Bottom Line

There are certain waste types that are considered as hazardous and cannot be
disposed of without special handling which will prevent contamination from
occurring. Biomedical waste is one example of such. This is found in health care
facilities and similar institutions. The special waste disposal system for this unit in
place to dispose of this type of waste.

https://www.conserve-energy-future.com/waste-management-and-waste-disposal-
methods.php

CORE COMPETENCIES
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: CARRY OUT MINOR VEHICLE MAINTENANCE AND SERVICING
LO 1. CLEAN VEHICLE UNIT
1. Light Vehicle Unit
2. air compressor
3. vacuum pump
4. steam cleaner
5. polisher
6. hose
7. Cleaning materials
  LIGHT VEHICLE UNIT

CLASSIFICATION OF MOTOR VEHICLES

 Class 1: Light vehicles: Light vehicles are motor vehicles, other than heavy
vehicles as defined above, with or without a trailer, and include motorcycles,
motor tricycles and motor cars.
 Class 2: Medium heavy vehicles: Medium heavy vehicles are heavy vehicles,
as defined above, with two axles.
 Class 3: Large heavy vehicles: Large heavy vehicles are heavy vehicles, as
defined above, with three or four axles.
 Class 4: Extra-large heavy vehicles: Extra-large heavy vehicles are heavy
vehicles, as defined above, with five or more axles.

 AIR COMPRESSOR
An air compressor is a device
that converts power (using an
electric motor, diesel or gasoline
engine, etc.) into potential
energy stored in pressurized air
(i.e., compressed air). By one of
several methods, an air
compressor forces more and
more air into a storage tank,
increasing the pressure. When tank pressure reaches its upper limit the air
compressor shuts off. The compressed air, then, is held in the tank until called into
use.[1] The energy contained in the compressed air can be used for a variety of
applications, utilizing the kinetic energy of the air as it is released and the tank
depressurizes. When tank pressure reaches its lower limit, the air compressor turns
on again and re-pressurizes the tank.
An air compressor must be differentiated from an air pump which merely pumps air
from one context (often the surrounding environment) into another (such as an
inflatable mattress, an aquarium, etc.). Air pumps do not contain an air tank for
storing pressurized air and are generally much slower, quieter, and less expensive
to own and operate than an air compressor.

 VACUUM PUMP
A vacuum pump is a device that removes gas
molecules from a sealed volume in order to
leave behind a partial vacuum. The
first vacuum pump was invented in 1650 by
Otto von Guericke, and was preceded by the
suction pump, which dates to antiquity.

 POLISHER

WHAT DOES POLISHING DO?

Polishing is a broad term for a range of

processes designed to either remove or mask
sub-surface paint defects and greatly enhance
surface gloss in readiness for sealant or wax
protection. In this guide, find out about what
polishing does and why it is the secret to
achieving an amazing finish, how to assess
the condition of automotive paint, what the
differences are between compounds, polishes,
glazes and chemical paint cleaners, how to polish your paint effectively by hand,
and how to polish your paint safely by machine.

 HOSE
 A hose is a flexible hollow tube designed to carry fluids
from one location to another. Hoses are also
sometimes called pipes or more generally tubing.

 CLEANING MATERIALS

Cleaning agents are substances (usually liquids,

powders, sprays, or granules) used to remove dirt,
including dust, stains, bad smells, and clutter on
surfaces. Purposes of cleaning agents include
health, beauty, removing offensive odor, and
avoiding the spread of dirt and contaminants to
oneself and others.

Cleaning involves sweeping floors, dusting furniture

and other surfaces, mopping or washing floors,
polishing surfaces, articles and accessories,
scrubbing tiles, sinks, toilets, disinfecting drains,
rearranging cleaned areas and putting things in
their specific place. We can say that cleaning is a
process of removing dust, dirt or any other
undesirable materials like stains, spots, contents of
an ashtray

LO 2. MAINTAIN AND SERVICE THE VEHICLE SYSTEM

CONTENTS:
1. Parts of vehicle and its functions
2. Basic principles of operation of vehicle system such as electrical system, fuel system,
cooling system, steering system, exhaust system, tires and brakes.
3. Routine service and maintenance of light vehicle
4. Minor routine repair and servicing
5. Diagnosis of vehicle faults and irregularities and major repair and service requirements.
6. Housekeeping
7. Writing and documenting service and maintenance reports
 8. Care and use of tools for routine maintenance and servicing

 PARTS OF VEHICLE AND ITS FUNCTIONS

 Engine: Including Block, Heads, Pistons & Valves

 Cooling System: Including Radiator, Thermostat, Water Pump, Heater & Hoses
 Charging System: Including Alternator, Regulator & Battery
 Ignition System: Includes Spark Plugs, Distributor, Ignition Wires & Coil
 Automatic Transmissions: Understand the concepts behind what goes on inside
these technological marvels and what goes into repairing them when they fail.
 Brakes: Including Disk & Drum Brakes, Master Cylinder, Power Booster & Anti-
lock Brakes
 Wheel Alignment: With explanations of Caster, Camber, Toe-in along with other
angles that are important to know about.
 Hybrid Power Systems: A detailed look at these new propulsion systems to
determine how they are able to get exceptional fuel economy and equally
impressive control over tailpipe emissions.
 Dashboard Gauges: A look at the gauges on your instrument panel and how to
read them.
 Air Conditioner: Including Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator & Receiver Dryer
 Electrical Systems: Excellent courses on Electrical Fundamentals, Circuits,
Controls and Electronics
 Fuel System: Includes Carburetor, Fuel Injection, Fuel Pump & Fuel Filter
 Emissions System: Including Catalytic converter, Air Pump, Oxygen Sensor,
Computer & PCV Valve
 Battery: A look at how they work and what can go wrong with them.
 Starting System: Including the Battery, Starter, and Ignition Switch & Neutral
Safety Switch.
 On Board Diagnostics: How Today's Cars Diagnose Themselves
 The Timing Belt: What They Do, What Happens when they Fail
http://www.carparts.com/classroom

The Engine

Every car is powered by an engine, and most cars use an internal combustion
engine that runs on gasoline. Gas, along with air, is drawn into a combustion
chamber where it is compressed and ignited by a spark. The resulting combustion
provides a power stroke that, when repeated rapidly, powers the car. Engines are
often referred to by the number of cylinders they have, and each cylinder contains
its own combustion chamber. A car's overall power is a function of the size of the
engine as well as factors such as the timing of the combustion and the type of
transmission used.

The Drive Line

The drive line is a series of components that connect the motion produced by the
engine to the wheels of the car to provide forward (or backward) motion. The engine
is connected to a drive shaft (a rigid metal shaft) via the transmission. Whether a
car uses an automatic or manual transmission, the function is the same: to use
metal gears to match the engine's speed to the power requirements of the car, which
depend on vehicle speed, the slope of the road surface and the weight of the car
itself. Additional gears transmit power from the drive shaft to the wheels
themselves.

The Electrical System

A car's electrical system is powered by a rechargeable battery that draws its power
from the engine itself, which acts as a generator. The battery is used to start the
car, providing the initial motion of the engine and powering items such as the fuel
pump and starter. A car's battery is also used to power the headlights, radio,
dashboard gauges, turn signals and an array of safety sensors. Most cars also have
additional uses for the electrical system such as power automatic windows or door
locks. All of these electrical items are wired to the battery with a series of fuses
ensuring that the electrical system can continue to function even if one part fails.

Brakes and Wheels

Various types of wheels and tires are useful for driving under specific conditions.
All-season tires, for example, have the versatility of being used throughout the year,
even if severe conditions occur. A car's brakes are one of its most important safety
features and generally come in one of two types: disc or drum. Disc brakes use a
spinning disc, which is pinched between brake pads mounted on calipers to slow the
motion of the car. Drum brakes use shoes that push outward to contact the inside of
a spinning cylinder, or drum. Some cars contain both types of brakes (one type for
the front wheels, another for the rear wheels) to take advantage of the best each
type of braking system has to offer.

Dashboard Instruments

One of the most visible parts of a car is its instrumentation. Most drivers are aware
of the speedometer and fuel gauge, but other dashboard instruments are equally
important. A tachometer, which displays engine speed in rotations per minute
(RPM), indicates how hard the engine is working. An oil pressure gauge or engine
temperature gauge can be useful in diagnosing common problems, such as a leak of
oil or engine coolant respectively. Stopping a car when oil pressure begins to drop or
temperature begins to rise can avoid catastrophic engine failure.

https://itstillruns.com/parts-car-functions-5399118.html

Engine. The engine—the "heart" of the

automobile—operates on internal combustion,
meaning the fuel used for its power is burned
inside
Karl Friedrich Benz in his first automobile.
of the engine. This burning occurs inside
cylinders, which contain pistons. The pistons
are attached, via a connecting rod, to
a crankshaft. Gasoline, the most common
automobile fuel, is pulled into the cylinder by the vacuum created as the piston
moves down through the cylinder. The gasoline is then compressed up into the
cylinder by the upward movement of the piston. A spark is introduced through a
spark plug placed at the end of the cylinder. The spark causes the gasoline to
explode, and the explosion drives the piston down again into the cylinder. This
movement, called the power stroke, turns the crankshaft. A final movement of the
piston upward again forces the exhaust gases, the byproducts of the fuel's
combustion, from the cylinder. These four movements—intake, compression, power,
exhaust—are called strokes. The four-stroke engine is the most common type of
automobile engine.
Fuel system. Gasoline must be properly mixed with air before it can be introduced
into the cylinder. The combination of gasoline and air creates a greater explosion.
The fuel pump draws the gasoline from the gas tank mounted at the rear of the car.
The gasoline is drawn into a carburetor on some cars, while it is fuel-injected on
others. Both devices mix the gasoline with air (approximately 14 parts of air to 1
part of gasoline) and spray this mixture as a fine mist into the cylinders. Other
parts of the fuel system include the air cleaner (a filter to ensure that the air mixed
into the fuel is free of impurities) and the intake manifold (distributes the fuel
mixture to the cylinders).
Exhaust system. After the fuel is burned in the pistons, the gases and heat created
must be released from the cylinder to make room for the next intake of fuel. The
exhaust system is also responsible for reducing the noise caused by the explosion of
the fuel.
Exhaust gases are released from the cylinder through an exhaust valve. The gases
gather in an exhaust manifold before eventually being channeled through the
exhaust pipe and muffler and finally out the tailpipe and away from the car. The
muffler is constructed with a maze of baffles, specially developed walls that absorb
energy (in the form of heat, force, and sound) as the exhaust passes through the
muffler.
The burning of fuel creates hazardous gases (hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide, and
nitrogen oxide) that are extremely harmful to the engine's components and the
environment. The emission control system of a car, linked to the exhaust system,
functions in two primary ways. First, it reduces the levels of unburned fuel by
burning as much of the exhaust as possible. It does this by returning the exhaust to
the fuel-air mixture injected into the cylinders. Second, it uses a catalytic converter
(fitted before the muffler) to increase the conversion of the harmful gases to less
harmful forms.
Cooling system. The cooling system also maintains the engine at a temperature that
will allow it to run most efficiently. A liquid-cooled system is most commonly used.
The explosion of fuel in the cylinders can produce temperatures as high as 4000°F
(2204°C). Liquid-cooling systems use water (mixed with an antifreeze that lowers
the freezing point and raises the boiling point of water) guided through a series of
jackets attached around the engine. As the water solution circulates through the
jackets, it absorbs the heat from the engine. It is then pumped to the radiator at the
front of the car, which is constructed of many small pipes and thin metal fins. This
design creates a large surface area that draws the heat from the water solution. A
fan attached to the radiator uses the wind created by the movement of the car to
cool the water solution further. Temperature sensors in the engine control the
operation of the cooling system so that the engine remains in its optimal
temperature range.
Lubrication. Without the proper lubrication, the heat and friction created by the
rapid movements of the engine's parts would quickly cause it to fail. At the bottom
of the engine is the crankcase, which holds a supply of oil. A pump, powered by the
engine, carries oil from the crankcase and through a series of passages and holes to
all the various parts of the engine. As the oil flows through the engine, it forms a
thin layer between the moving parts so they do not actually touch. The heated oil
drains back into the crankcase, where it cools. The fumes given off by the crankcase
are circulated by the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve back to the
cylinders, where they are burned off, further reducing the level of pollution given off
by the automobile.
Electrical system. Electricity is used for many parts of the car, from
the headlights to the radio, but its chief function is to provide the electrical spark
needed to ignite the fuel in the cylinders. The electrical system is comprised of a
battery, starter motor, alternator, distributor, ignition coil, and ignition switch. The
starter motor is necessary for generating the power to carry the engine through its
initial movements. Initial voltage is supplied by the battery, which is kept charged
by the alternator. The alternator creates electrical current from the movement of
the engine, much as windmills and watermills generate current from the movement
of air or water.
Turning the key in the ignition switch draws electrical current from the battery.
This current, however, is not strong enough to provide spark to the spark plugs. The
current is therefore drawn through the ignition coil, which is comprised of the tight
primary winding and the looser secondary winding. The introduction of current
between these windings creates a powerful magnetic field. Interrupting the current
flow, which happens many times a second, causes the magnetic field to collapse. The
collapsing of the magnetic field produces a powerful electrical surge. In this way,
the 12-volt current from the battery is converted to the 20,000 volts needed to ignite
the gasoline.
Because there are two or more cylinders, and therefore as many spark plugs, this
powerful current must be distributed—by the distributor—to each spark plug in a
carefully controlled sequence. This sequence must be carefully timed so that the
cylinders, and the pistons powering the crankshaft, work smoothly together. For
this reason, most present-day automobiles utilize an electronic ignition, in which a
computer precisely controls the timing and distribution of current to the spark
plugs.
Transmission. Once the pistons are firing and the crankshaft is spinning, this
energy must be converted, or transmitted, to drive the wheels. The crankshaft spins
only within a limited range, usually between 1,000 to 6,000 revolutions per minute
(rpm). Although the wheels spin at far lower rpms, the range at which they spin is
wider (to accommodate the wide range of driving speeds of an automobile). The
gears of the transmission accomplish the task of bringing down the fast-spinning
input from the crankshaft to the smaller number of rpms needed by the wheels.
There are two types of transmission: manual and automatic. Automobiles generally
have at least three gears, plus a reverse gear (many manual transmissions have
four or even five gears). With manual transmission, the driver controls the shifting
of the gears. In an automatic transmission, gears are engaged automatically. Both
types of transmission make use of a clutch, which allows the gears to be engaged
and disengaged.
Chassis. The chassis is the framework to which the various parts of the automobile
are mounted. The chassis must be strong enough to bear the weight of the car, yet
somewhat flexible in order to sustain the shocks and tension caused by turning and
road conditions. Attached to the chassis are the wheels and steering assembly, the
brakes, the suspension, and the body.
The steering system allows the front wheels to guide the automobile. The steering
wheel is attached to the steering column, which in turn is fitted to a gear assembly
that allows the circular movement of the steering wheel to be converted to the
straight movement of the front wheels. The gear assembly is attached to the front
axle by tie rods. The axle is connected to the hubs of the wheels.
Wheels and the tires around them form the automobile's only contact with the road.
Tires are generally made of layers of rubber or synthetic rubber around steel fibers
that greatly increase the rubber's strength and ability to resist puncture. Proper
inflation of the tires improves fuel efficiency and decreases wear on the tires. When
applied to the wheels, brakes provide friction that causes the wheels to stop
turning.
The suspension system enables the automobile to absorb the bumps and variations
in the road surface, keeping the automobile stable. Most cars feature independent
front suspension (the two wheels in front are supported separately). In this way, if
one wheel hits a bump while the other wheel is in a dip, both wheels will maintain
contact with the road. This is especially important because steering the automobile
is performed with the front wheels. More and more cars also feature independent
rear suspension, improving handling and the smoothness of the ride.
The main components of the suspension system are the springs and the shock
absorbers. The springs suspend the automobile above the wheel, absorbing the
bumps in the road surface. As the chassis bounces on the springs, the shock
absorbers act to dampen, or quiet, the movement of the springs.
The body of a car is usually composed of steel or aluminum, although fiberglass and
plastic are also used. While the body forms the passenger compartment, offers
storage space, and houses the automobile's systems, it has other important
functions as well. In most instances, its solid structure protects passengers from the
force of an accident. Other parts of the car, such as the front and hood, are designed
to crumple easily, thereby absorbing much of the impact of a crash. A firewall
between the engine and the interior of the car protects passengers in case of a fire.
Lastly, the body's design helps to reduce the level of wind resistance as the car
moves, allowing the driver better handling ability and improving the efficiency of
the engine.
http://www.scienceclarified.com/As-Bi/Automobile.html
  DIAGNOSIS OF VEHICLE FAULTS AND IRREGULARITIES AND MAJOR
REPAIR AND SERVICE REQUIREMENTS

Check Engine Light On

The Check Engine Light (which is actually the Malfunction Indicator Lamp or MIL)
alerts you when an emissions-related problem occurs with the engine control system
or emission controls on your vehicle. Depending on the nature of the problem,
the Check Engine Light may come on and remain on continuously or flash. Some
intermittent problems will make the Check Engine Light come on only while the
fault is occurring (such as engine misfire). The Check Engine light usually remains
on once a fault has been detected, and will remain on to remind you that a problem
has occurred that needs to be investigated.

An illuminated Check Engine Light can be annoying because you don't know what's
wrong, and whether or not the problem might be a serious one or just a minor fault.
There is no way to know what the problem is until you plug a scan tool into the
vehicle's diagnostic connector and read out the code(s) that turned the light on.

ENGINE OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT ON

If the engine oil pressure warning light is on, it may

mean your engine has lost normal oil pressure. STOP
driving immediately and turn the engine off. The
engine can be severely damaged if oil pressure is lost.

Oil Pressure Warning Light Diagnosis

First, determine if the oil is full or low by checking the

dipstick. NOTE: On some engines, there is an oil level sensor in the engine's oil pan
that will turn on the oil warning light if the oil level is low. If the dipstick shows a
low oil level (the oil level is at or below the ADD line, or no oil can be seen on the
dipstick), your engine may be leaking oil, burning oil or both.

Oil leaks are a common cause of oil consumption and a low oil level in the engine.
Oil leaks can occur at the valve cover, oil pan or timing cover gaskets, or the front
and rear crankshaft oil seals. Inspect the top, sides and bottom of the engine for
signs of oil leakage. Look for greasy stains, heavy accumulations of grease, or oil
dripping on the ground. The higher the miles on the engine, the more likely the
gaskets and seals may be leaking. If your engine is leaking oil because of a bad
gasket or seal, the leaky gasket or seal should be replaced.
If the outside of the engine is clean and there are no obvious oil leaks, and the oil
level is low, the engine is probably burning oil due to worn piston rings, valve
guides or valve guide seals. This may be the result of high mileage wear or neglect.
Either way, this kind of oil consumption problem is expensive to fix because it may
require rebuilding or replacing the engine.

NOTE: On many engines, replacing the valve guide seals will significantly reduce
oil burning if the original guides and seals are worn.

ENGINE TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHT

Driving with the temperature warning light on can

increase the risk expensive engine damage! When the
temperature light comes on, it means your engine is
overheating (running too hot). An engine should not
overheat if the cooling system is properly filled and is
working normally -- even during hot weather or stop-and-
go driving. Sometimes abnormal driving conditions such
as towing a heavy trailer during hot weather may
overload the cooling system's capacity to control heat, but usually a temperature
warning light means trouble.

What To Do If Your Temperature Warning Light Comes On

STOP DRIVING IMMEDIATELY!. Pull over to the side of the road as soon as it is
safe to do so, then shut off your engine and wait for things to cool down.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to open the radiator cap! The radiator contains hot
water under high pressure. Opening the cap on the radiator or a pressurized coolant
reservoir could allow steam and water to blow out and burn you. There's nothing to
be accomplished by opening the cap while the engine is still hot, so let your vehicle
sit and cool off.

After things have cooled down (wait at least half an hour or more), then you can
open the radiator cap or reservoir and check the coolant level. Place a rag over the
cap first, and slowly turn the cap until it stops at the first detent. This should allow
residual pressure to be released. Wait until all pressure has been released before
removing the cap the rest of the way.

Add water or coolant to the radiator or coolant reservoir if it is low. Actually, you
should add premixed coolant or a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water
to maintain the proper freezing, boil over and corrosion protection. But in most
cases when this happens, it's an emergency situation and you won't have a jug
of antifreeze handy. If that's the case, add water now, then drain out some of the
coolant later and offset the extra water by adding the proper amount of antifreeze.

ENGINE OVERHEATING

Is your engine overheating? Most engines are

designed to operate within a "normal" temperature
range of about 195 to 220 degrees F. A relatively
constant operating temperature is essential for
proper emissions control, good fuel economy and
performance. But problems can arise that cause the
engine to run hotter than normal, resulting in
engine overheating.

Your engine's cooling system is filled with a 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene
glycol antifreeze. The coolant will boil at 225 degrees unless it is held under
pressure by the radiator cap. A 15 PSI radiator cap will increase the boiling
temperature of a 50/50 coolant blend up to 265 degrees F. If the concentration of
antifreeze to water is upped to 70/30 (the maximum recommended), the boiling
temperature with a 15 psi radiator cap goes up to 276 degrees. So obviously the
radiator cap plays a significant role in preventing the coolant from boiling and the
engine from overheating.

POSSIBLE CAUSES OF OVERHEATING

Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system's ability
to absorb, transport and dissipate heat: A low coolant level, a coolant leak (through
internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of
accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that doesn't open,
poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric
cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump
impeller, or even a defective radiator cap.

One of nature's basic laws says that heat always flows from an area of higher
temperature to an area of lesser temperature, never the other way around. The only
way to cool hot metal, therefore, is to keep it in constant contact with a cooler liquid.
And the only way to do that is to keep the coolant in constant circulation. As soon as
the circulation stops, either because of a problem with the water pump, thermostat
or loss of coolant, engine temperatures begin to rise and the engine starts to
overheat.
The coolant also has to get rid of the heat it soaks up inside the engine. If the
radiator is clogged with bugs and debris, or if its internal passages are blocked with
sediment, rust or gunk, the cooling efficiency will be reduced and the engine will
run hot. The same thing will happen if the cooling fan is not engaging or spinning
fast enough to pull air through the radiator.

The thermostat must be doing its job to keep the engine's average temperature
within the normal range so the engine does not overheat. If the thermostat fails to
open, it will effectively block the flow of coolant and the engine will overheat.

Exhaust restrictions can also cause the engine to overheat. The exhaust carries a lot
of heat away from the engine, so if the catalytic converter is restricted, or a pipe has
been crimped or crushed, exhaust flow can be restricted causing heat to build up
inside the engine.

It's also possible that your engine really isn't overheating at all. Your temperature
gauge or warning lamp might be coming on because of a faulty coolant sensor.
Sometimes this can be caused by a low coolant level or air trapped under the sensor.

POSSIBLE CONSEQUENCES OF ENGINE OVERHEATING

If your engine is overheating, it may start to detonate. The engine may rattle and
ping and lose power. If detonation continues, it may damage the rings, pistons
and/or rod bearings.

Overheating can also cause pisto scuffing. As the engine gets hotter and hotter, the
pistons may swell to the point where there is no more room for expansion and they
scrape against the cylinders, damaging the pistons and cylinders.

Exhaust valves may also stick or scuff in their guides. This can damage the valves,
guides and lead to a loss of compression.

Another consequence of engine overheating may be a blown head gasket. Heat

makes aluminum swell almost three times faster than cast iron. Thermal stress can
distort the head and make it swell in areas that are hottest like those between
exhaust valves in adjoining cylinders, and areas that have restricted coolant flow
like the narrow area that separates the cylinders. The typical aluminum head
swells most in the middle, which can crush the head gasket if the head gets too hot.
This will usually cause the head gasket to leak compression between adjacent
cylinders, or leak coolant into the cylinders.

Engine overheating can also cause an overhead cam to seize and break.
Engine overheating may also stress old radiator and heater hoses and cause they to
burst under the additional pressure. Steam that is generated inside the cooling
system can also damage radiators with plastic end tanks.

A HOT warning lamp should never be ignored. Though a few high tech cars like
Cadillacs with the Northstar engine can disable cylinders to "air-cool" the engine
and keep it running at reduced power in the event of coolant loss, most engines will
suffer serious damage if they overheat. So advise your customers to stop driving at
the first sign of overheating. Turn the engine off, let it cool down and try to find and
fix the cause before risking further travel.

HOW TO FIND & FIX COOLANT LEAKS

Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the
cooling system. Nine out of ten times,
coolant leaks are easy to find because the
coolant can be seen dripping, spraying,
seeping or bubbling from the leaky
component. The first symptom of trouble
is usually engine overheating. But your
car may also have a Low Coolant
indicator lamp. If you suspect your
vehicle has a coolant leak, open the hood
and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking
from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or
yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. You may also notice a
sweet smell, which is a characteristic odor of ethylene glycol antifreeze.
The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just
under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a
backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The
gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted
water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on
the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a
result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another
place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic
end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes
in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also
vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never
been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.
Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator
can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak
coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the
hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow
coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the
hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the
engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out,
and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the
exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks,
the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air
conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak
directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is
leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on
the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the
bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor. Some Chrysler
vehicles have a reputation for developing coolant leaks in the heater core, and
repeat heater core failures. Some have found that an aftermarket copper/brass
replacement heater core lasts longer in these applications than the original
equipment aluminum heater core.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder
heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble
down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L
V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake
manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and
often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the
intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS

There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are
impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that
internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket.
The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant
leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine.
A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a
lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the
leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head
or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the
cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the
cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates
(conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic
converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting
overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when
you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing
the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the
bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick
appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or
discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic
transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic
transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing
leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the
transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a
leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to
eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

Car Won't Start?

YOU TRY TO START YOUR CAR BUT IT WON'T START

What should you do when your car won't start? Diagnosing a no-start condition
requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from
starting. Below is a list of possible causes that can prevent your car from starting.

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, or press the START button,
voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral
safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the
pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When
the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it
closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to
crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage
the flywheel and cranks the engine.
If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the
battery/ignition/starter circuit.

COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another
vehicle or battery charger).

Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH
battery cables).

Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten
wiring connections).

Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there
is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).

Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove
starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).

Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear
and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).

Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn
to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch.
Replace ignition switch if defective).

Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic
transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch
with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for
voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.

Dead Smart Key Fob battery Refer to owner’s manual for emergency starting
procedure if your Key fob won't start your car. On some vehicles, placing the fob
next to the push start button, pressing the Start button with the fob, or inserting
the fob into a special slot on the instrument panel, steering column or center console
may allow it to communicate with the ignition system so your engine will crank and
start.

Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long
handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).

Engine hydro locked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and
wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or
engine cannot be cranked with plugs out).

http://www.aa1car.com/common_car_problems.htm

 HOUSEKEEPING

7 Ways to keep your car clean

Is your car gleaming and well cared for? Or does the interior look like a cross
between a teenager’s bedroom and a dustbin on wheels?
These tips will help you have a cleaner and more organized automobile:
1. Clear the clutter
From children’s toys and travel sweets to ice scrapers and emergency triangles,
there’s so much we ferry around in our cars. A back seat organizer with a variety of
pockets can totally transform your car interior, while a boot organizer can do the
same in the back. Halfords offers a good range, with the Mint Car Seat
organizer being more stylish than most.
2. Remove the rubbish
Old water bottles, apple cores, parking ticket receipts… It’s easy for clutter to build
up in your car. But every room in your home has a bin, and your car needs one, too.
Get a car bin from Lakeland – it hangs on the headrest and has a waterproof lining.
3. Prevention is better than cure
It’s easier to prevent a mess than to clear one up, so impose a level of quality control
when it comes to what you allow into your car. For example, when choosing
children’s snacks for a journey, apples are a better choice than oranges, jelly sweets
a better choice than chocolate. Have a zero-tolerance policy on anything too sticky or
likely to drip, such as ice cream.
4. Cover up
Car seat covers can be whisked off and cleaned in the washing machine – a lot
easier than dealing with upholstery stains.

6. Tackle serious stains

Accidents happen – sometimes children get car sick and you have to deal with the
consequences, or a carton of milk in your shopping bag breaks and floods the foot
 well. In a confined environment like a car, smells can be especially difficult to get
rid of, and a professional valet may be needed.

7. Banish smelly-car syndrome

If your car is less than fragrant, one tip for making it more agreeable is to put some
cat litter into half a pair of old tights. Fill the tights, tie a knot in the end, then put
them under the seat – the cat litter will absorb smells. And it can come in useful in
bad weather – scatter the litter around the wheels to provide grip for the tires in icy
or muddy conditions ( McCarthy, 2017)

 WRITING AND DOCUMENTING SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE

REPORTS
Documenting post-trip vehicle inspections

Despite the fact that post-trip inspection reports have been required for many
years, failure to prepare a post-trip inspection report continues to be one of the most
cited critical violations found during compliance reviews.
Are you properly documenting your post-trip inspections?
According to 49 CFR §396.11, each passenger-carrying driver must prepare
a driver’s vehicle inspection report (DVIR) in writing at the end of each day's work
on each vehicle operated. Each property-carrying driver must prepare and submit a
report if a “defect or deficiency is discovered by or reported to the driver.” This
means that if a passenger-carrying driver operates three commercial motor vehicles
during the day, then three DVIRs are required for that day. A single DVIR is
adequate for any combination of vehicles, such as a tractor plus trailer, but note
that trailers must be included on the DVIRs when a defect or deficiency is
discovered by or reported to the driver on a trailing unit.
No DVIRs are required for single-vehicle operations.
The inspection report must cover the following* parts and accessories, at a
minimum, although the written report itself does not have to list these items:

 Service brakes including trailer brake connections

 Parking (hand) brake
 Steering mechanism
 Lighting devices and reflectors
 Tires
 Horn
 Windshield wipers
 Rear vision mirrors
 Coupling devices
 Wheels and rims
 Emergency equipment

*Additional requirements exist for intermodal equipment inspections.

The DVIR must contain:

 An identification of the vehicle, such as the truck and/or trailer vehicle or license
numbers;
 A list of any defects or deficiencies which could affect vehicle safety or result in a
breakdown, if any;
 For passenger-carriers, an indication that no defect or deficiency was discovered, if
that is the case; and
 Spaces for the three required signatures.

Who has to sign the DVIR? In all cases, the driver who prepared it must sign it.
This is the only signature required if no defects are noted. If a defect was noted,
then a mechanic or other company official must sign it to indicate either that the
vehicle has been repaired or that repairs are unnecessary. Finally, if a defect was
noted, the next driver of the vehicle must sign the report.
The original DVIR must be kept for three months from the date it was prepared.
Drivers are no longer required to carry DVIRs in the vehicle (Keller, 2017).

 CARE AND USE OF TOOLS FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND

SERVICING

How to Take Care of Your Tools?

Good tools can be quite an investment, but if you take good care of them, they'll return the favor.
Keeping your tools properly stored, cleaned, and maintained will save you time and money and
make your DIY endeavors that much more rewarding.

Store Your Tools Properly

Pegboards make a great storage system
for tools. They let you see all your tools at
a glance and they can make use of wall
space in a pretty efficient way. If you don't
have enough wall space, though, you can
still take advantage of pegboards by
building a hinged system, a rolling
pegboard, or even a portable pegboard
storage system.
Toolboxes also make for great tool storage, offering the primary advantage of
portability. While some people opt to store all their tools in toolboxes, for most, the
toolbox is a way of carrying around your most-used tools while leaving the bulk
safely stored on pegboards, shelves, or drawers. No matter what you're doing,
though, you can build a well-equipped toolbox for every level of DIY needs.

Rust is public enemy number one when it comes to tools. To avoid rust when storing
your tools:
 Keep your tools in a dry place. It seems obvious, but garages and basements
and other enclosed spaces can have humidity issues, especially if they are not
heated or air-conditioned. If you keep your tools in a location like this,
especially if you keep them out on shelves or pegboards, consider investing in
a dehumidifier to keep the dampness down. They're not terribly expensive,
especially compared to your investment in your tools, and most let you set a
humidity level so the dehumidifier turns on only when it needs to.
 Hang your garden tools. Even if you keep your garden tools inside the garage
or your shed, hang them so that they don't rest on the floor. Moisture can
easily creep up from concrete floors.
 Store power tools in their original cases. Unless you have a climate-controlled
workshop, your best bet for storing power tools in the hard plastic cases they
usually come with. Not only are they better-protected from humidity, they're
just better-protected in general.
 Use silica gel packs or rust collector. The silica gel packs that come in lots of
packaging are great at keeping moisture at bay. Toss them in drawers or
toolboxes and they can help keep rust away. You can also buy rust inhibitors
for the same purpose and even anti-rust liners for drawers and shelves.
 Power tools: Power tools are a little trickier to clean. First, make sure the tool
is unplugged before you clean it. Next, you'll want to get all the dust off. An
air compressor can be really useful for that. Wipe down the surface of the tool
and then lubricate any moving parts. Machine oil is a fine choice for this, but
 you should also check the manual that came with the tool to see if they have
better recommendations (Walter, 2014)

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: DRIVE LIGHT VEHICLE

LO 1. PERFORM LIGHT VEHICLE PRE STARTING AND WARM-UP

CONTENTS:

1. Pre starting warm up procedures

2. Inspection of vehicle safety devices and tools
3. LTO/LTFRB safety requirements

 PRE STARTING WARM UP PROCEDURES

What’s the proper procedure for starting and warming up my car

in the morning?

We need to divide all the cars and trucks into two groups:

Carbureted cars (1986 or so and older) --- Ignition key on, push throttle to the floor
3-5 times slowly. (The first pump of the throttle allows the choke to close or set and
each subsequent pump simply primes the engine) Take foot off throttle, crank
engine until it starts. Allow engine to fast idle for 2-3 minutes or so.

During the warm up, DO NOT TAP THROTTLE TO DROP FAST IDLE. (By
tapping the throttle and dropping the idle, you have just kicked off the choke you
just set) Put car in gear and drive away.
Fuel injected cars (1986 or so and newer) --- Just start the car. Do not pump the
throttle, do not push on the throttle during cranking, just turn the key and start the
engine. Allow it to idle for about 1 minute, then begin driving.

On newer cars (86 and up) , allowing them to idle for 5 minutes is bad for them.
Driving easy for the first five minutes is the key, because the engine will warm up
faster driving it than it will just sitting there idling.

In almost every car, on the backside of the driver’s visor, there are starting
directions for your car. Please read them and if their starting procedures conflict
with mine, use theirs. And if your car won’t start or dies during these start up
procedures, something is wrong and needs to be addressed. On carbureted cars,
typically the choke pull offs are bad (lots of black smoke, engine dies soon after
starting if I don’t nurse the throttle) or the choke is too tight (lots of black smoke, I
have to manually open the choke) or the choke is too loose or broken (no fast idle
ever).

When your carbureted car is having a tough time starting, one of the main keys to
what is wrong, that your tech should ask, is "Does it fast idle in the morning?" That
tells him if the choke is shut or not, which gives him a nice spot to start.

If a fuel injected car is tough to start, it’s typically a bad throttle position sensor, a
bad coolant sensor, a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or weak spark (Mark
, 2000)

 INSPECTION OF VEHICLE SAFETY DEVICES AND TOOLS

This section has been included in our safety manual to highlight the importance of
proper maintenance as a vital part of a safety program.

In addition to ensuring that workers use the tools and equipment properly, it is
vital that tools and equipment be properly inspected, maintained, and kept in good
repair. Our maintenance program will reduce the risk of injury, damage and lost
production.

Operator Qualifications and Training

All individuals who operate our mobile equipment, cranes, vehicles etc. will have
the appropriate skills, accreditation and/or certification. This applies to both
company employees and contracted equipment services.

The approval process includes the following:

 1. Possession of a valid driver’s license appropriate to the type of
equipment.

2. Successful completion of a practical operating exam administered by

competent and authorized personnel.

3. Vision test to meet the appropriate standard. Vision tests must be

conducted by competent and authorized personnel.

4. Hearing test with or without a hearing aid must be adequate for the
specific operation. Hearing tests will be conducted by competent and
authorized medical personnel.

5. No history of epilepsy or of a disabling heart condition or any other

physical disability or impairment.

6. The operator should be trained in the following:

 their responsibilities to operate the equipment in a safe manner;

 familiarity and comprehension of safety requirements for the piece

of mobile equipment which they intend to operate;

 manufacturer's operating and maintenance procedures;

 how to communicate to maintenance personnel when there is a

problem with a specific piece of equipment;

 hand signals and/or other requirements set by the company, owner,

or dictated by site conditions.

Records

The maintenance program must contain a recording system. Part of this system
should be made up of inventories and schedules. In addition, the recording system
should document what maintenance work was done, when, and by whom.

Monitoring

The monitoring functions in a maintenance program fall into two areas.

First, the people responsible for operating and/or maintaining equipment must
monitor that equipment to ensure that appropriate checks and maintenance are
done.

Secondly, management should monitor the entire program to ensure that it is

functioning in accordance with company policy.

Scheduled Inspections and Maintenance

All mobile equipment is to be inspected and maintained according to the following

Equipment Inspection Schedule as a minimum. Records of all inspections and
maintenance are completed and maintained for review and approval.

Maintenance of equipment, release of lubrication fluids, etc., is performed only in

approved areas. Spills and leaks from equipment are cleaned up promptly.

Equipment Inspection Schedule

Type of Equipment Type of Inspection Schedule

Complete inspection and Before put to work
certification and annually
Critical items, controls,
Daily
overall functioning
Cranes – Crawler, Safety device, hooks, cables,
Truck, Hydraulic, Monthly
electrical
etc.
Complete inspection Every 3 months
Repair When failure occurs
Manufacturer’s
Preventative maintenance
recommendation
Heavy Equipment Complete inspection Before put to work
Dozers, Backhoes Complete inspection Every 3 months
Repair When failure occurs
Compactors, Manufacturer’s
Preventative maintenance
Trucks recommendation
Operator’s checklist Daily
 Miscellaneous Complete inspection Before put to work
Complete inspection Every 3 months
Compressors,
Repair When failure occurs
Welding Machines,
Generators Manufacturer’s
Preventative maintenance
recommendation
Deformation, cracks, Daily or before each
Slings, Shackles, corrosion, etc. use
Chokers, Lifting
Devices Regular inspections of all
Every 3 months
devices

Pre-Operation Checks

Walk around checks on all pieces of mobile equipment are necessary to ensure the
unit is safe to operate both from the personnel standpoint and for the equipment;
that is, all fluids must be at the correct level and all components must be intact.

A. Check for personnel in the cab area and around the equipment.

Before the operator commences the pre-start checks, the operator should
check the cab area for other operators and others who may be working
around the equipment.

B. Visual check

The operator should walk completely around the equipment looking

underneath the equipment, in the engine compartment, and in the cab.

C. Brake Lines

Visually check the brake lines for leaks. Check for moisture on the brake
line. Report any leaks to maintenance for repair as soon as possible. DO
NOT operate equipment with brake leaks.

D. Steering Assembly

 Check the tie rod ends, pins and keepers, bell cranks, drag links,
ball joints, steering rams and hydraulic hoses.
  Check that all the joints are tight.

 Report any faulty conditions to your supervisor.

Note: Never operate a truck with faulty steering.

E. Front Tires

Conduct the following checks on the front tires:

 Visually check the tires for deep cuts, separations and embedded
rocks, nails, or any other foreign material.

 Check for tire bulges at the road surfaces which indicate low air
pressure.

 Check the rims for cracks and breaks.

 Check the valve stems for wear and cuts.

F. Front Wheel Lugs

 Check the front wheel lugs each day.

 Report any loose or broken wheel lugs.

 If there are broken or loose, do not operate equipment.

 Report the condition to your supervisor.

G. Front Suspension

Check the front suspension for bottoming out and also check that all
fastening devices are in place.

H. Fluid Levels

Check all the fluid levels at the beginning of the shift with the
equipment on level ground. Refer to the manufacturer's requirements to
ensure the proper procedure is followed.
 If the fluid level is low, notify your supervisor. Do not operate the
equipment until the appropriate fluid level is brought up to operational
level.

I. Fluid Leaks

Look for fluid leaks while checking the fluid levels. There may be fluid
lines or gaskets that are leaking.

Make a visual check to see if fluid is running down the side of the engine
block or any other areas while the engine is running.

J. Fan Belts, Blower Belts, Alternator Belt etc.

Check that all belts are in place, tight, and in good condition,

K. Air Tanks

Check the following air tanks:

 The Main Air Tank. The operator should drain the tank twice a
shift during the winter months and at the beginning of each shift at
other times. Take caution when draining air tanks because of the
sludge and water that comes out. The tanks should be drained until
clean air is visible.

 Front Air Application Tank. The operator should drain the tank
twice a shift in the winter months and at the beginning of each shift
at other times.

 Rear Air Application Tanks. The operator should drain the tank
twice a shift in the winter months and at the beginning of each shift
at other times.

All air lines should be checked for any damage or deterioration during
the check on air tanks.

L. Hoist Rams
 Visually check the hoist rams to ensure that the hoist anchor pins and
keepers are in place. Check the condition of the hydraulic hose and look
for leaks. Report any concerns to your supervisor.

M. Main Frame

Visually check the main frame for cracks and report any problems to the
supervisor.

N. Lights

Turn on all equipment lights to see they are working properly including;
headlights, clearance lights, and back-up lights.

All faulty lights will be replaced prior to using equipment.

O. Glass

Check that the windshield, windows and mirrors are clean and free of
cracks.

P. Handrails and Ladder

Check the condition of the handrails and ladder and look for loose
handrails or rungs. Report any unsafe conditions.

Q. Wheel Chocks

Ensure that the truck is equipped with two wheel chocks mounted in a
readily accessible place.

R. Seat Belts

Check that the truck has seat belts. It is important that the operator
should use them.

S. Fire Extinguishers

Every piece of equipment must be equipped with adequate fire

extinguishers in good condition. Faulty fire extinguishers must be
replaced immediately.
 T. Back Up Alarm

Check that the backup alarm is working correctly (Annonymous, 2017)

 LTO/LTFRB SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

ROAD SAFETY TIPS

VEHICLE:-A vehicle should be properly equipped and must always be in good

condition for safe driving. No one can legally drive a vehicle that may be a hazard to
any person and property just like its operator, it needs regular clean-up and check-
up.

Underneath Parts- Check tie rod. Low tire pressure may cause the wear and tear
pressure. Always equip vehicle with spare tires. Tires with worn out thread will
slide more easily on wet pavements and may blow-out without warning.

Outside Parts- Have clean rearview mirrors to see at least 200 ft. behind. Windows
must be clean and free of obstruction. Check vehicle lights if they are all working
such as tail lights, turn signals, stop lights, license plate lights and parking
lights. Check wipers if they operate properly to clear the windshield. Check mufflers
to prevent excessive noise and smoke.

Inside Parts

Engine Tune-up: As part of the tune-up, spark plugs, distributor

points, condenser and air cleaner must be replaced, carburetor must be cleaned
periodically.

Battery: It must be kept in good condition. Add distilled water if the level is low.

Safety Devices: Check devices such as fuses and circuit brakers.

Radiator: Check radiator fluid level before starting the engine.

Brakes: Brakes and parking brakes must be firm enough to stop the vehicle.

Others: Check the temperature gauge and hose connections, brake fluid and master
cylinder.
Be sure to check the type of Gasoline/Oil suited for your vehicle.

Check horn if it can be heard from a distance. A defective steering wheel, clutch,
pedals and shift gears need serious attention.

Check the ignition lights and gauges register. The car’s gauge warns the driver if
something is going wrong.

Find a competent and dependable mechanic is important to a driver for proper

maintenance and prevention of car problems before they become critical. It is the
responsibility of the driver to keep his car in good running condition.

DRIVER’S PHYSICAL CONDITION:

It is enough to have a vehicle in good running condition to ensure safety in driving.

As a driver you must be physically, emotionally and mentally fit to operate your
vehicle on the road. This is vital to safe driving.

Vision- A driver must see quickly, clearly and accurately. Seeing too late makes
decisions come too late. Decisions made while driving are based on what the driver
see. If eyes do not see properly, it can be corrected by using corrective lenses.

Smell- By smelling, you can tell the presence of gas that may be coming out of your
car. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may result to drowsiness, headaches,
nausea or mental dullness that impair your driving ability. Check your engine and
exhaust system if they are in top condition.

Hearing -A driver who has impaired hearing may not hear important sound like
police vehicles, sirens of fire engines and horns of other drivers who wish to pass.
The use of hearing aids overcome this defect.

Touch- Proper coordination of hand and feet helps in controlling the vehicle while in
motion. Sensitivity to the important parts of the car such as brakes, steering
system, accelerator, lights and signals through your sense of touch enable you to
determine any incoming failure that may surprise you and the other driver to an
emergency.

Emotions

Emotions affect driving performance. Failure to control emotions may lead to fatal
consequences.
Anger – It impairs the performance of smooth braking and accelerating due to
changes in some body functions such as increase heartbeats.

Anxiety – It may lead to panic decisions.

Excitement – Stress and sometimes happiness changes the functions of the body
and mind that prevents wise decision necessary for safe driving.

Fatigue – Is the most common that lower driver’s fitness. Fatigue may come from
lack of sleep, excessive physical exercise or from mental or emotional stress. Fatigue
dulls the mind and slows down nerve and muscular responses. As a good driver, you
must learn to cope with all these emotions, to perform the driving task safely and
effectively.

DRIVING AND ALCOHOL

Driving is NOT safe when drunk. It is said that “IF YOU DRINK, DO NOT
DRIVE!” Driving a motor vehicle requires concentration. Driver’s found driving
under the influence of alcohol is PUNISHABLE BY LAW. ( LTO, 2017)

LO 2. DRIVE LIGHT VEHICLE

CONTENTS:
1. Traffic rules and regulations
2. Use of steering wheel, clutch, gas and brake pedal.
3. Use of handbrake, front and rear mirror
4. Motoring Tips
5. Driving hazards
6. Right parking and shutting down light vehicle

 TRAFFIC RULES AND REGULATIONS