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CAUTIONiThe mast and rigging or your Rave conduct electricity. Always look
.Overhead for wires when rigging, transporting, launching and sailing your Rave.
"Failure to do so could result in serious injury or death. :
Hydrofoil sailing has many things in common with sailing conventional boats, but in some ways it is vastly different- The
potential speed of a hydrofoil-based craft is much higher than that of most sailing craft and demands respect and caution.
• Always inspect the rigging, crosstubes, foils, control assemblies, and sails before sailing your WindRider Rave. If any of
these parts require maintenance, do this before sailing. A (allure at foiling speeds can have severe consequences.
• Sail under complete control. This means sailing at speeds appropriate for conditions and traffic. Rave can sail at speeds
that leave little time to react to changing conditions. Leave plenty of margin for error; a collision with debris (logs,
crabpots, etc.) or other craft can lead to serious injuries or fatalities. Always look around you before you turn.
• Be aware of water depth where you sail. The WindRider Rave requires a minimum of five feet of dear depth (no weeds
or other obstructions) for safe hydrofoiling.
• The stability of the WindRider Rave is aided by the foils. At rest, stability is reduced, and increases as the boat
accelerates. For this reason, you should always apply power gradually.
• Respect local, state, and federal laws regarding the operation of your Rave. Make sure yourWindRider Rave meets all
applicable registration requirements.
• Boat modifications are a common part of speedsailing. Keep in mind, however, that hydrofoils in general - and the
WindRider Rave specifically - operate under very high stress loads. Some modifications could increase the risk of
structural failure and/or void our limited lifetime warranty.
• WindRider Rave's trampolines are for boarding only. Do not sit, stand, or carry passengers on them while the boat is in
motion.
Get to Know Your WindRider Rave
Thanks for choosing a WindRider^ Rave and becoming part oftheWindRider trimaran revolution.
We're excited about this unique recreational hydrofoiling machine and think you'll share our enthusiasm.
TheWindRider Rave is a different way to sail fast. Speed sailing has long been the territory of sailboards,
beach cats, overpowered planing hulls, and esoteric one-offs. No more. Rave uses proven technology to sail
at speeds beyond the capabilities of most wind-powered craft. It offers exotic performance at a relatively
modest price.
Rave's designers, Dr. Sam Bradfield, Mike McGarry, and Tom Haman, are among the elite of the speed-
sailing set. Dr. Bradfield has set world records and explored the practical boundaries of hydrofoil sailing.
Now, his knowledge and experience, and in-house R & D Director Rick Jones' practical savvy, have made
Rave a reality.
This owner's manual will help you learn more about yourWindRider Rave hydrofoil/trimaran and its
safe operation. Inside, you'll discover how to assemble, sail, transport, and care for your Rave.We've tried to
illustrate important information in simple, clear language.We think you'll appreciate this approach, and
encourage you to become thoroughly familiar with yourWindRider Rave before you go sailing.
We've enclosed a warranty registration card in this manual. Please complete and return it within 90
days of purchase to activate your warranty. The U.S. Coast Guard hull number for your Rave is etched into
the plastic on the top back corner of the starboard side of each hull.We also invite your comments and
suggestions; include them on your registration card, or write or e-mail us. If you have questions about your
WindRider Rave, your dealer will be glad to assist you.
WindRider
Mailing Address PO Box 4339 Archdale, NC 27263 USA
Shipping Address 3761 Old Glenola Rd.Trinity, NC 27370 USA
Telephone (336)434-7470
Fax (336)434-6912
E-Mail cservice@windride.com
Web http://www.windride.com
Caring for theWindRider Rave
The Rave is designed to be a durable, long lasting boat, Sail Care
but it will require maintanance to assure performance and Sails should be stored dry and free of salt and dirt. They
longevity. should be rolled to prevent folding the mylar laminates. If
rolled with the battens in the sails, care should be taken to
Rinse assure that each batten remains parallel to the roll.
The entire Rave should be thoroughly rinsed after each To ease raising the mainsail, the luff rope can be
sailing trip to prevent accumulation of salt, mud and sand in lubricated with a dry sail lubricant such as McLube Sailkote.
working parts and to maintain the Rave's appearance. Pay
special attention to all metal parts that will corrode if they Sealants
remain salty. Moving parts should be rinsed to assure their Drain plugs and inspection ports are installed with
action will remain smooth. sealant at the factory. Should these fittings ever need to be
replaced or simply resealed, it can be done with an adhesive
Lubricate called "Marine GOOP" available at most home maintenance
The dagger (or vertical) section of the hydrofoils and
stores. Goop can also be used to reinstall the plastic
rudder should be lubricated with a dry lubricant such as
wingtips on the foils if they are ever taken off for service.
McLube Sailkote" to assure they slide up and down
The mast is a sealed section, meaning the halyards do
smoothly. Dry lube can also be used on all moving contact
not penetrate the mast (which would allow water inflow in
surfaces such as the mast step ball/socket, wand control
the unlikely event of a capsize). Sailors who will choose to
pivot assembly and pushrod ends. Metal pans and fasteners
"push the limits" may like to further seal the mast, as many
can be lubricated with normal marine lubricants to prevent
aggressive small boat sailors do. This can be done by rubbing
corrosion.
silicone caulk over and around all rivets, screws and fittings
on the mast annually to ensure their seals remain sound.
This will provide an extended period of time to right the
boat in the unlikely event that that a capsize occurs.
Assembling and Disassembling theWindRider Rave
YourWindRider Rave is very easy to assemble and disassemble, particularly when it is sitting on theWindRider Rave
trailer. With a litde practice, assembly takes only 20 minutes for one person to accomplish.
1 Main Hull
2 Outrigger
Crosstube Bolts
Crosstube Nuts
Lock Washers
Flat Washers
Lower Shroud Chainplates
Rigging
I Mast
I Mainsail
I Blade Jib
Blade jib
F—l
I Mast Retaining Pin
When assembling your WindRider Rave on its trailer, you typically will not have to assemble the main foils. If the main foils
are assembled, proceed to the next section. For this job, you will need two 7116" wrenches and one I IT wrench.
3. Lift the internal control flap pushrod until the bolt hole
in it is lined up with the bolt hole in the wand control
pivot. Pass the retaining bolt through its washer, the
control arm, the pushrod, and the nylock nut. The push
rod can be bolted to either side of the pivot arm; the
correct side is the one that allows the linkage to push
the flap down completely without binding on the side of
the foil at the top of the vertical member. One side will
fit better than the other. Tighten until secure, then loosen
the nut one-half turn. Note: Do not overtighten; the
pushrod linkage must be able to move freely.
WindRider Rave Assembly
Outriggers
Assembly ofyourWindRider Rave usually begins with the outriggers. The Rave trailer is equipped with hinged crosstube
supports that enable one person to easily manage this task. You will need two 3/4" wrenches for this assembly.
Repeat Step S for the three remaining crosstube bolts ' S-"" ai'i"'"'!'!!!)!,,
nuts and washers, replacing the lower shroud chainplate ^&__^ „
with a flat washer. Check alignment marks on the ^^^^^_
crosstube flanges and adjust if needed. ^^^^^|
Alignment mark
WARNING
Make sure there are no electrical power lines overhead or between you and the launch
site before raising mast. Contact with them could result in serious injury or death.
9
5. Lay out the shrouds so they are straight and free of
Wists. Attach the upper shrouds to the chainplates on
the outriggers. Secure with stay adjusters,
clevis pins, and split rings.
9
10. Secure the port and starboard lower slays to the
chainplates on the crossbeam flanges, using stay
adjusters. Ensure the clevis pins are securely fastened.
The lower shrouds should have a very slight amount of
play in them when the upper shrouds are tight.
The Sailor's Environment
WARNING
Safety is every sailor's concern.You must understand the risks associated with
sailing.The user ofaWindRider Rave and other equipment sold byWindRider is
personally responsible for his or her own safety, and should obtain proper instruction
in seamanship, including boat handling, navigation, rescue, first aid, and CPR.The
user of anyWindRider product assumes all risk and responsibility for any damages,
loss and injury, including death, which result from the use ofWindRider products.
• Preflight your boat. Ensure it's in proper operating condition before you soil See Soiling the WindRider Rove
(page 18) for a preflight checklist
• Dress for conditions. Low temperatures, wind, and spray can contribute to discomfort and hypothermia. Make
sure you (and your passenger) are properly outfitted.
• Make a flight plan. Tell someone where you will be soiling and when you wil return. Consult local chare,
weather reports, and tide tables to determine if you are likely to encounter hazardous conditions. Look for
other traffic and plan a course that will provide maximum clearance for your boat Inspect the surface of the
water, looking for floating debris that might damage your boat
• Always carry appropriate safety equipment At a minimum, this should inckjde n podofc, PfD (Sfe jacket),
horn, and flares or other signaling devices.
.^\
Performance & Design Limitations
You purchased aWindRider Rave because you want to Liftoff Performance
go fast - perhaps faster than any other sailing craft on the The actual liftoff speed of theWindRider Rave is
water. Rave is capable of high speeds, but it's important to dependent on boat and crew weight, windspeed,
understand the performance and design limitations of this environmental conditions, heading, and sailing technique. The
unique boat, so your time sailing Rave can be as safe and fun following chart provides guidelines for approximate takeoff
as possible. speeds, based on crew weights from 60-400 pounds.
Because hydrofoils are not common, particularly as
recreational craft, there is a lot of speculation and
misinformation about the boats and their operation. Often, Crew Weight TakeoffV\/indspeed
they're considered temperamental, impractical boats that are (Ibs) mph knots
designed to do one thing well: go fast.
TheWindRider Rave is a departure from this school of 60-120 10-12 9-10
thought. It is a recreational hydrofoil trimaran. The use of
hydrofoils isn't simply to make the boat faster, but to allow it 120-160 12-13 10-11
to make more efficient use of the wind's power. For a boat
owner who wants to make the most of every outing, this 160-220 13-14 11-12
difference is important.
Dr. Sam Bradfield and HydroSail Inc. designed the 220-300 15-16 13-14
WindRider Rave to operate at boatspeeds 1.6X the
windspeed (e.g., 24 mph in 15 mph winds). Actual 300-400 16-17 14-15
performance is dependent on environmental conditions,
crew weight, and other factors, and may vary.
Because of the high loads on the foils, Dr. Bradfield
specified a maximum design speed of 30 mph. This allows a
margin of safety before equipment breakage occurs. In
These tokeoffwindspeeds can be reduced by roughly Zmph
testing, the WindRider Rave has reached speeds of more.
wth the addition of a WndRider Rave Reacher kit.
than 40 mph without problems. But, because foil loads
increase exponentially with wind speeds, you must be aware
that gusting winds can quickly reduce the safety margin. Your
point of sail also has an effect on structural loads; at a given
windspeed, loads are highest on a close reach (70-80° off
true wind). Be more conservative when sailing on
this heading.
Because Rave is a very high-performance sailing craft, we
realize that many owners will elect to sail at or beyond the
boat's limits. If you choose to sail at boat speeds exceeding
30 mph, you must be very aware of wind speed and wind
direction, and sail with care. And, as with any high-
performance machine, you should be prepared to accept
responsibility for equipment breakage.
Preflight
The main foil latches will wear as they slide up and down
Walk around the boat and check the following:
the trailing edge of the foil. A good way to see if they
need replacement is to support your Rave over flat
Frome & Hulls
Are all eight crosstube retainer bolts secure? ground with the foils on "half latch". If the foils at half
Are all bolts which hold space frame in place secure? latch cannot support the boat's weight without slipping,
Are the outrigger inspection port covers secure? then the plastic latches should be replaced soon. The
Are the outriggers empty of water? half latch notches in the foils are shallower than the fully
down position, so the half latch position will start to slip
Sods & Rigging before the fully down notches.
Are all rigging stays in good repair and securely fastened?
Are all control sheets in good repair?
Are sheets properly routed and fastened into the
mainsail and blade jib clews!
Are all sail battens secured and in good repair?
Are the mainsail and jib in good repair!
Raising and lowering the mainsail Raising the jib-routing jib halyard
Main halyard lock The jib halyard has a 2:1 purchase arrangement. The
The main halyard has a hook and ring arrangement to single block with shackle attached fastens to the jib head.
hold the mainsail up when it is at full hoist- The ring that is The halyard itself runs from the becket at the hounds,
welded to the mainsail head shackle will latch on the hook, through the block at the jib head, up through the block at
which is mounted at the masthead. It should hook the hounds, back down along the forestay through the cheek
automatically when the mainsail reaches full hoist, but it will block on the port side of the bow and aft to the cam cleat
only hook with the boat head to wind. Before raising the on the underside of the beam on the port side.
sail, make sure that the knot which ties the halyard to this To raise your jib, shackle the jib halyard block to the jib
ring is very short. If the loop on the bowline has stretched head grommet. Start the jib luff zipper, which will zip both
to be too long, the knot will hit the masthead before the ring around the forestay and around the portion of the halyard
hooks. You will hear the ring hook; you can then pull down which runs from the cheek block to the hounds. Slowly pull
on the luff, feed the bottom of the luff rope into the mast, the halyard tail to raise the jib, while zipping the luff around
and downhaul your sail using the block and tackle provided. the forestay and halyard as the sail rises. When the jib is
The main halyard can be stowed on the cleat located on the mostly up, the jib tack can be fastened to the hole behind
main hull deck just aft of the mast, using the small black where the forestay attaches using the shackle provided.
bungee provided. Tighten your halyard a satisfactory amount, but never so
To drop your main, first unhook your mainsheet, uncoil much that the forestay goes
your halyard and have it free to run, unhook your downhaul, slack. If the forestay is slack,
and point the boat straight into the wind. Remove the lower the jib luff will be overloaded
portion of the luff rope from the mast and make sure it is and may be damaged. Now
free to feed into the upper mast. Pull firmly on the halyard release the jib sheet from its
to raise the mainsail about I"; this will raise the ring above cam cleat and fasten the jib
the hook. Now rotate the mast fully to one side, which will sheet block to the clew of
move the hook on the mast to the side of the ring. While the jib. The jib halyard can
holding the mast at full rotation, pull the luff rope down and be stowed on the cleat
roll up the sail. If the sail has blown slightly off the centerline located on the port side of
of the boat, the trailing edge of the mast should be rotated the main hull deck just aft of
away from the sail (to windward) to make unhooking easier. the crossbeam, using the
small black bungee provided.
A/
Starting Out
It's time to sail! With the Rave pointed into the wind,
hoist the sails. Check around you for potential hazards, then
shove off and move clear of the dock or mooring. You will
need two feet of water to lower your rudder half way, which
will give you sufficient steerage.
If you will be sailing without a passenger, we recommend
covering the front cockpit- This will prevent water from
entering the front cockpit and therefore keep your boat
drier. If sailing with a passenger, the front cockpit can be
sealed using a spray
2. Pull and hold left and right latchlines (red) to release
skirt. Cockpit covers i
foils. If water depth is less than five feet, release
and spray skirts are
latchlines immediately to prevent them from dropping
available from your
beneath the first foil notch. Pulling the latchlines again
WindRider dealer.
allows the foils to drop to full depth.
Look around
you and make sure
you are clear of
traffic or other
hazards. You should
have more than five
(5) feet of water
depth before fully
lowering the foils.
If the foils did not drop far enough for the latch to lock,
while stopped or moving slowly, pull left and right
CAUTION control bungees (black) to fully lower foils. Use only as
Before attempting to sail your much tension as is necessary. Once the foils are lowered,
WindRider Rave on the foils, immediately ease tension on the control bungees.
familiarize yourself with the boat in
light air conditions.
CAUTION
Adjustments to foil control bungee
tension must be made smoothly.
Never release bungee tension , ;
suddenly or completely while the
boat is foilbome. . ^'|i!?; :T!:';;-'T;^•rHTE;:. '
SPECIAL NOTE!
It is important that enough bungee tension be maintained at speed to keep both
hydrofoils fully submerged in the water. Lifting (horizontal) foils should never be
allowed to leave the water while foiling.
29
Heading Up to Stop
Like any other sailboat, the WindRider Rave must be Foil loads are highest at this point of sail. If you are
Steered directly into the wind to stop. WindRider sailing in strong winds and head up to reef the mainsail, you
^ recommends that you ease sheets and depower the sails may inadvertantly overload the foils and cause them to fail.
before heading up, particularly if steering from a broad reach
to dead upwind. Easing the sails will slow you down.
When heading up at high speeds, alway i and depower the sails "first.
24
Points of Sail
YourWindRider Rave is most capable of flight at 80°-
120° off the wind, and beyond these points you will need
higher windspeeds to sail foil-borne. For this reason, it's best
to begin flight on a reach, then, wind speeds allowing, either
head up to sail close hauled, or bear off to sail on a broad
reach or downwind. Straight downwind is slow and foils
provide less stability than a broad reach. For best downwind
performance jibe from broad reach to broad reach.
Stress Management
Foil-assisted sailboats operate under extremely high
loads. The foil daggers must resist compression (lifting
forces) and deflection (during tacks and gybes, and due to
side forces on the sails). Because theWindRider Rave does
not heel and relieve wind pressure on the sails, forces upon
the foils increase exponentially during wind gusts.
The foils on yourWindRider Rave are designed with a
large load safety factor. However, because forces increase
very rapidly you must be aware of boat speed, wind speed,
and wind direction at all times. This minimizes the possibility
of equipment failure.
Be aware of boat speed, wind speed, and wind direction at all times.
Reefing the Mainsail
Reefing
1. Cleat the halyard on the mast horn cleat so that reefing
tack grommet is about 15" from mast base.
Lowering mast
To lower your mast, first put your Rave on its trailer in
an area that is entirely free of overhead power lines. Power
lines can kill you if they strike your mast or rigging, so look
up and around.TWICE.
I. Once you are in a safe area, fasten your jib halyard block
(which normally attaches to the jib head) to the forestay
bracket where you normally tack your jib. Tighten the
halyard enough that the forestay goes slack, and securely
cleat the halyard. The halyard is now holding the mast
up (double check your dealing job) so you can safely pull
the clevis pin at the base of the forestay. With the
forestay released, make sure your rear upright which
supports the outrigger and mast is inserted into the
trailer, and climb into the front cockpit where you will
stand to lower the mast.
Once you are familiar with your boat, there are a few
tricks that can help you get it from the trailer to the water
in short order. Of course, you must form your own system,
but here are some suggestions that might help.
Flotation bags
Although we know the Rave is nearly unsinkable because
of its two sealed outriggers, flotation bags add extra
security for those who like to push the limits.. The Rave
kit includes two full-length outrigger bags, two bow float
bags and a stem bag. The bow bags are nicely tapered so
they can keep water from rushing to the bow if you
"stuff the bow" in windy conditions.
Windshield
The Rave windshield mounts securely with a bungee
around the front cockpit. It adds a sporty look to the
boat while giving your passenger some added protection
from wind and spray.
Bilge Pump
A bilge pump allows you to empty water from your
craft, improving safety and performance. The Rave bilge
pump is permanently mounted inside the pilot's cockpit.
A hose draws water out of the boat and expels it out a
hole in the side of the mainhull. A through-deck pump
combines simplicity, convenience and a high flow rate. It
is essential for sailors who like to venture offshore. It can
be added by your dealer if you did not order one with
your Rave.
Compass
A Compass is essential equipment when venturing away
from your home base. WindRider Rave's optional deck-
mounted compass allows you to set courses to distant
points, and monitor the course you're following.
Sprayskirts
WindRider borrowed the idea of a sprayskirt from the
world of kayaking. The WindRider Rave sprayskirt is
made of durable, coated nylon, and helps keep water out
of the cockpit.
Miniskirts
A unique WindRider accessory covers the front third of
the cockpit opening. The mini skirt limits water entering
the cockpit, and provides a useful net pocket to carry
your chart, sunscreen, or even loose lines. These benefits
are provided without limiting getting in and out of the
cockpit.
Cockpit Cover
A cockpit cover keeps water, debris, insects, and animals
out of your WindRider'. Made of nylon, a cockpit cover
should be used for transport and storage.
Trampoline
YourWindRider" Rave is equipped with factory-installed
mounting hardware for trampolines. Trampolines will
make it easier to get from your outriggers to the
cockpit-Trampolines are available from your dealer.
Paddle
A paddle is an essential accessory for every WindRider
Rave owner. A paddle allows you to keep going when
the wind dies and also helps in maneuvering in shallow
water with your rudder retracted.
Dry Bags
Dry Bags protect your cargo from spray or immersion.
They are essential to keep safety gear dry so it is ready
when you need it. Voyageur dry bags come in several
sizes to carry gear ranging from a full backpack to a small
cell phone or camera. Ask your dealer about Voyageur
accessories.
APPENDIX
ACCESSORY INSTRUCTIONS
c
Trampoline attachment C
1. Using one of the short lines provided, tie the forward inside comer of the trampolines to the eyes on (
the side of the crossbeam to main hull mounting flange. The comer of the trampoline should be 3"- /•
4" from this eye.
2. Now use the longer line provided to tie the aft inside corner of the trampolines to the eyestraps
found at the rear corner of the aft cockpit. At this point, the inside edge of the trampoline should be
moderately tight.
3. The outside corner is tied last. Here you can use a,trucker's hitch to gain a purchase and pull the
trampoline extremely tight. This outer comer is the only one that must be untied when the boat is
disassembled for trailering.
W-Mr>/^y3>^yy
In most circumstances, it is best to adjust your rudder for level flight. To speed take-off, you can gently
pull back for a little bow up and then level off. Repeat this cycle a few times and you can find yourself
taking off in a step-like fashion. Over-adjustment will only slow you down. To increase your speed when
moving fast, you can very cautiously lower your bow a few inches. This will allow you to use less bungee
tension when running fast. Be careful so that you do not cause a crash landing by lowering the bow too,
much. With a little practice, you will be very comfortable trimming your Rave for optimal performance.
?•?
WindRider RAVE Adjustable pitch rudder installation instructions for
dealers.
Remove stock rudder from rudder box. Untie or cut rope on handle and remove from rudder
blade. Unlatch rudder and slide out bottom of box.
Slide new rudder into box. First slide control cable through the box, followed by the rudder
blade. Be careful not to kink the cable at the top where it leaves the rudder top.
Install new rudder handle. Run rope through hole at the back edge of rudder top. Tie a stopper
knot closely on either side of the rudder (figure I) leaving an equal amount of line on either side of
the rudder Insert the tails of the line through hole in handle and out the sides. Tie an overhand
knot at the end of the lines and pull knots back inside the handle.
Rudder Grommet
Figure 2
Insert control cable into hull. Push control cable through the hole drilled in Step 4 into the
boat. The black plastic cable housing mount fitting must be carefully worked through the hole; it
cannot be removed from the cable.The control cable runs through the deck and under the starboard
support strap on the backrest. Make sure the control cable does not get run between the steering
cable and the side of the boat
Fit rubber grommet into hole. The black rubber grommet (figure 2)found on the control cable
can now be fit around the edge of
the cable entrance hole.
Rivet joystick mounting
bracket to starboard side rail.
Carefully line this fitting up so that
the square hole will be pointed over
the side rail and directly at the center-
ofthe rounded area on the hull
where the joystick will mount(f(gure
3). Once you are sure of the
position, drill holes with a 3/16" bit
and rivet the fitting to the rail.
(Hint It is often best to drill and
rivet one hole before drilling
the second 3/16th hole to assure
the 2nd hole will line up perfectly)
Drill hole for actuator shaft
through hull. Run a 1/2" drill bit
from the inside of the boat, through
the square hole in the joystick
mounting bracket and through the
hull. This will leave a half inch hole
Figure 3
through the center of the rounded joystick area of the hull.
Figure 4
10. Install actuator shaft assembly
and Joystick. Slide the tensioning
spring over the actuator shaft (figure 5).
Push the shaft from inside the hull
through the mounting bracket and out
the hole drilled in step 8. Put the
joystick bolt through the actuator
shaft and tighten the nut at the bottom
(figure 6). Hold the bolt inside the
joystick ball by inserting a medium
sized slot head screwdriver tightly
between the bolt head and the inside
of the hole in ball, maintaining pressure
while tightening the nut on the bottom.
I I. Link control cable to actuator
shaft. Use the machine screw and nut
provided. Tighten nut fully and then
back it off half a turn to allow the
cable fitting to swivel freely on the
actuator shaft (figure 5).
^-v
Congratulations on your purchase of a reacher to turbocharge your Rave. The loads the reacher places
on your boat relate both to windspeed and wind direction, Follow the guidelines below to know when
it is safe to use your reacher but always follow the motto "When in doubt, furl it up".
• UPWIND The reacher can be used from 45 to 60 degrees off the true wind only when the wind
is less than 7 knots. In very light air the added power will help you get upwind faster If you start to
bury your outrigger; furl it up, because the added heeling is slowing you down.
• CLOSE REACHING These headings from 60 to 90 degrees off the true wind are when the loads
are highest on your boat. It is on these headings that you are most likely to break something. You
can fly on these headings with the reacher but only if the wind is less than 12 knots. If you get hit by
a gust, ease your sheets and furl, or run downwind.
• REACHING & BROAD REACHING These are the headings where the reacher was really
designed to be used, from 90 to 170 degrees off the true wind. The windier it is, the further off the
wind you should run if using your reacher In 12-15 knot winds you can reach 100 degrees or more
off the true wind. If the wind is over 15 knots you can only safely use your reacher at more than 140
degrees off the true wind and if the wind is I 8 knots or more don't use the reacher at all. WHEN
IN DOUBT, FURL IT UP!
• WINCH HANDLE If you think you need one, you are using the reacher under too much loading.
If it luffs, sheet it then. You should not need a handle.
REMEMBER This is a. high-powered sail and must only be used by sailors who understand and respect
the loads it can place on the boat. These are the same guidelines that would be used for any high-
performance multihull using a reacher Because you are flying a hydrofoil, you must use good judgment
rather than waiting to capsize as a sign that you are using too much sail. Be safe and this sail will provide
you many hours of fast flying,
^
Installing The Windrider Rave Reacher Kit.
I. Install hounds fitting to mast. This is centered on the leading edge of the mast (see figure I).
Locate the fitting so that the hole for the shackle is exactly 24" from the top of the mast. This fitting
•" can be taped to hold it in place, before drilling 3/16" holes for the stainless rivets to be fastened in.
These stainless rivets must be popped with a heavy-duty rivet gun, Make an effort to push the hound
fitting tightly against the front of the mast before drilling holes. A single block with a becket will be
shackled to this fitting.
24" from Shackle Pin to Masthead
Mount halyard swivel cleat to mast. This swivel cleat will be riveted into 3/16" holes that you
drill in the mast. This should be mounted on the port side of the mast, above and slightly ahead of
the downhaul cleat so it will not interfere with the downhaul (see figure 2).
Figure 2
Run halyard from becket, through single block that will be clipped to swivel on head of sail, back
through block on mast and then to swivel cleat which you just mounted to the port side of mast.
4. Fasten eyestraps for ratchet blocks to top of crossbeam (see figure 3). The holes to bolt
the eyestrap to the beam should both be directly on the top of the beam. Locate the holes so that
the center of the eyestrap where the block mounts will be 24" from the centerline of the boat. We
have found 24" from the centerline to be a good location for the ratchet block. If you are a technical
Figure 3
5. Attach eyestraps for sidestays. These eyestraps mount horizontally on the inboard side of the
hull mounting flange ahead of the hydrofoil box (see figure 4). The holes should be 5/8" above deck
level, and the aft hole 1/2" from the weld that holds the flange to the hydrofoil box. Drill holes and
mount with the screws, nuts and washers provided. Kevlar sidestays will be fastened hens.
6. Mount small cheek block for furling line. This block (see figure 5) is mounted with self-tapping
screws on the underside of the crossbeam just outboard of the jib sheet cheek block on the
starboard side.
figure 5
7. Install jam cleat and fairlead for furling line. The cleat will mount as shown in figure 6,
directly under the jibsheet cam cleat and fairlead.The fairlead mounts just ahead of the cleat. The
cleat is mounted with machine screws and be backed with washers and nuts inside hull.The fairlead
mounts with self-tapping screws.
Figure 6
Vt
41
8. Bolt bobrtoy fitting to bow. Use a small screwdriver or knife to carefully remove the black plugs
found at the waterline of the main hull bow. Slip the stainless bobstay fitting bolt through the hole
you just exposed (see figure 7). This is an asymmetrical fitting. If the holes don't seem to line up, flip it
over
; •}»»: ••
Figure 7
9. Insert bowsprit into sockets and drill pin hole. First, put a black plastic sleeve into the front
of each socket on the bow (see figure 8), then slip the bowsprit into sockets. If it is tight, a good
marine dry lube like McLube Sailcoat will make it easy. Shackle the bobstay wire from the underside
of the sprit onto the bobstay fitting on the bow. Tighten the bobstay by using a rubber mallet to
drive the sprit forward until the bobstay is tight enough to prebend the sprit down a bit. After
making sure the tang for the furling drum is straight up and the bobstay is still very tight, drill through
the holes in the aft socket with a 3/8" bit from each side. An aka lock pin will be inserted through
this hole as seen in figure 8.
4Z
10. Mount winch. The winch is mounted in the center of the control deck angled aft by the black
plastic wedge provided (see figure 9). Remove the screw found in the center of the winch handle
socket to allow the winch to be lifted from the mounting base (see instructions from Harken
included with the winch). The winch is mounted with only four screws.The two holes which are
_ closest to the front of the boat will be unused (these screws would not see sheet load anyway, so are
unnecessary). Align the plastic wedge so it follows the rounded front of the winch pad of the control
decfe-with the thinnest portion aft. The wedge MUST be placed right side up, which is when screws
inserted into the holes will be perpendicular to the top surface of the wedge, not perpendicular to
the control deck. Once the wedge is in place, drill the four holes furthest aft though the deck and
aluminum plate underneath. Bolt the winch base and wedge on with the screws provided, using
fender washers on the aft two screws. Remount the winch on its base and tighten the screw in the
center
Figure 9
I I . Fasten cam cleat for sheet. The location for the cleat can be seen in figure 9. It is mounted just
aft of the starboard side of the winch, placed on the same angled surface where the bungee cam
cleats are mounted. Placement is such that when the sheet leaves the starboard side of the winch
and is pulled aft to the cockpit it will lead directly into the cleat. Mount with the large wedge, screws
and backing plate provided.
12. Tie Kevlar sidestays to bowsprit using a bowline. You can tape the loop of the bowline if
you'd like, to avoid chafe. The outer end of the sidestay will be secured to the eyes installed in Step
5 using a trucker's hitch to get them very tight. Properly adjust them so they are very tight and the
pole is centered, and then mark the line to speed setup in the future. It is important that these stays
be kept tight when sailing and be inspected for wear and replaced as needed.
13. Spool the furling line (1/8" black line) into furling drum to assure that when the sail is furled it
spins the luff wire in the direction which will TIGHTEN the twist of the wire. The furling line
should run from the drum, through! the small cheek block on the starboard side of the sprit, through
the cheek block which you mounted in step 6 and then through! the fairlead and cleat mounted in
step 7.
GLOSSARY
Sailing and foiling have their own vocabularies. Us this Head Up Change direction so the boat sails at a
glossary to understand unfamiliar terms and concepts more acute angle to the wind.^,
described later in this manual. \^A
Beat Sail on alternate port and starboard Hydrofoil An underwater wing designed to
tack to go to windward. generate lift. Properly used and with
sufficient wind power, hydrofoils lift a
Bow Front of the boat boat's hulls clear of the water and
drastically reduce drag.
Cavhation Vaporization (or "boiling") of water
due to extremely low pressure on the Hydnofbiling Sailing with the boat fully supported
low pressure side of the foils. Occurs by hydrofoils.
at extremely high speeds (beyond the
sailing limits of the Rave). Knot A rate of speed equal to one nautical
mile per hour. One knot =1.15 mph.
Close Hauled Sailing very near the direction of the
wind. Leech The trailing edge of the mainsail that is
connected to neither the mast nor
Cross Tube Frame member that supports a boom.
trimaran's outriggers.
Leeway The distance or angle a boat on a
Ease Sheets Release the main and/or jib sheet to heading is blown sideways through the
change sail angle.
Fall Off Change direction so the boat sails at a Leeward The side of the boat that is away from
deeper angle relative to the wind. the wind.
Foil See hydrofoil. Luff 1) Allow the sail to flap freely into the
wind, generating no power.
Gybe Change direction while sailing 2) The leading edge of the sail.
downwind so that the true wind
passes from one aft quarter over the Monohull A boat with one hull.
transom of the boat to the other aft
quarter. This causes the mainsail to Multihull A boat with multiple hulls.
swing across the boat
^
Outrigger An outer hull that provides a trimaran Starboard Tack Sailing with the wind striking the sail
with stability and flotation.Also called from the right side.
an ama.
Screacher A large roller furling jib found on
Pijat*- You, the sailor in command of the multihulls. Specifically designed for
\ Rave. screaming reaches.
^^ s.
Pitchpole Bury the bow, causing the boat to go Stall Condition when a hydrofoil exceeds
end over end. its maximum angle of attack. The foil
can no longer provide lift, and the
Point of Sail Direction of travel relative to wind boat returns to its hulls.
direction.
Stem The back of the boat.
Port Looking forward, the left side of the
boat Tack I) Change direction while sailing to
windward which causes the wind to
Port Tack Sailing with the wind striking the sail pass from one side of the bow across
from the left side. to the other side of the bow.
2) The point at which the bottom,
Reach Sail perpendicular, or 90° to the wind leading edge of the mainsail is secured
(also known as a beam reach). If you to the mast, or the jib to the bow.
are sailing at less than 90°, you are on
a close reach. Sailing at more than 90° Trimaran A boat with three hulls.
is a broad reach.
True Wind Wind direction and/or speed when
Reef Reduce sail area. the boat is at rest-Also known as
ambient wind.
Rudder A movable surface, located at the
boat's stem, used to control the boat's Ventilation Air being sucked down to the foil
direction. from the water's surface.This occurs
when foils rise too high, due to
Rudder Pedals Foot pedals, located in the rear insufficient bungee tension.
cockpit, used to control the rudder
angle and boat direction. Vmax Maximum design speed. Exceeding this
speed may result in damage to your
Starboard Looking forward, the right side of the boat
boat.
Windward The direction from which the wind
blows.