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3D Slicer Settings for Beginners – 8

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Proper 3D slicer settings can mean the difference between a successful print, and a failed print. That’s
why it’s so important to know how slicers work and how each different setting will affect your results.

https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ 06/07/2017, 08D54

Page 1 of 21
 We understand that the many settings on slicing software can be intimidating, especially for beginner
makers. Sometimes even advanced makers make mistakes and end up with failed prints. Just ask
Pinshaper & experienced 3D printer, Zheng3 (https://pinshape.com/users/10770-zheng3?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)! His picture below illustrates a
simple but effective example of the difference that 3D slicer settings can have on a print.

Part of the problem is that the optimal slicer settings depend on what design you’re printing and what
material you’re using, so there is no “one setting fits all” perfect setting. The big question, then, is: how do
you know what slicer settings to use on which designs & material?

To break it down, let’s go through some of the basic features of a slicer, and talk about how each setting
will affect your print. This is more of an introduction to the topic than an in-depth guide.

https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ 06/07/2017, 08D54

Page 2 of 21
 What Is a 3D Slicer & What Does It Do?

A slicer is 3D printing software that converts digital 3D models into printing instructions for your 3D
printer to create an object. The slicer cuts your CAD model into horizontal layers based on the settings
you choose, and calculates how much material your printer will need to be extrude and how long it will
take to do it. All of this information is then bundled up into a GCode file which is sent to your
printer. Slicer settings do impact the quality of your print so it’s important to have the right software and
settings to get you the best quality print possible.

For the examples, we will use Cura (version 15.04.3), a free slicer with similar features to most other
slicers.

The basic settings menu in an older version of Cura looks like this:

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Page 3 of 21
 (https://blog-assets.pinshape.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/02122112/Screen-Shot-2015-
12-08-at-11.14.31-AM.png)

8 Slicer Settings You Need to Know & How They Work!

1. Layer Height
Think of layer height as the resolution of your print. This setting specifies the height of each filament
layer in your print. Prints made with thinner layers will create more detailed prints with a smoother
surface where it’s difficult to see the individual filament layers. The downfall of thinner layers is that it
takes more time to print something, since there will be more layers that make up your object.

If you’re printing something without detail, a thicker layer will get you a faster print but it will be a
rougher surface and the individual layers will be more visible. Low resolution printing is good for things
like prototyping where details may not be necessary.

If you want to print something with intricate details, you will get the best print with a thinner layer height.
Cura recommends settings of .06mm for a high resolution print like this Tudor Rose Box by Louise
Driggers (https://pinshape.com/items/5758-3d-printed-the-tudor-rose-box-with-secret-lock)

EDIT: After consulting with a few of our community makers, we found that a layer height of .06mm is not
a realistic setting for most FDM printers. Here is what one of our pro makers Dan Steele
(https://pinshape.com/users/11828-dan-steele?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings) recommends for detailed settings:

.4mm nozzle fine = .1mm average=.2mm rough=.34mm

.35mm nozzle fine= ,1mm avg = .2mm rough = .3mm

https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ 06/07/2017, 08D54

Page 4 of 21
 (https://pinshape.com/items/5758-3d-printed-the-tudor-rose-box-with-secret-lock?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

For medium resolution designs, Cura recommends .1mm. Unless you’re printing something with lots of
detail, medium settings should work perfectly for most designs with some level of detail like this Spiral
Chess Set by BigBadBison (https://pinshape.com/items/5518-3d-printed-spiral-chess-set-large). This is
the layer height we use as our go-to in the Pinshape office on our Ultimaker 2.

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Page 5 of 21
 (https://pinshape.com/items/5518-3d-printed-spiral-chess-set-large?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

Larger layers work best for prints that don’t have a lot of detail. Cura recommends .2mm for a “low
resolution” print with little detail like this Elephant by le FabShop. (https://pinshape.com/items/662-3d-
printed-elephant)

(https://pinshape.com/items/662-3d-printed-elephant?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

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Page 6 of 21
 PRO TIP: 3D printing veteran Chris Halliday (https://pinshape.com/users/36981-chris-halliday)
recommends changing one setting at a time, keeping track of how each incremental change affects your
print!

2. Shell Thickness
Shells refers to the number of times the outer walls of the design are traced by the 3D printer before
starting the hollow inner sections of your design. This defines the thickness of the side walls and is one of
the big 1 gest factors in the strength of your print. Increasing this number will create thicker walls and
improve the strength of the print. It is automatically set to .8 so there shouldn’t be any reason to change
this for decorative prints. If you print something that will need more durability, or if you’re creating a
water-tight print like a vase, you may want to increase shell thickness.

3. Retraction

This feature tells the printer to pull the filament back from the nozzle and stop extruding filament when
there are discontinuous surfaces in your print, like this one:

(https://pinshape.com/items/1940-3d-printed-islamic-christmas-ball?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

Retraction is usually always enabled, unless your print doesn’t have any discontinuous surfaces in it. This
setting can sometimes cause filament to get clogged in your nozzle during a print in which case you
probably want to disable it. If you find there is too much filament oozing out of the nozzle, leaving your
print with a bunch of strings or clumps on the outer edges, then be sure to turn on retraction.

4. Fill Density

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 Infill refers to the density of the space inside the outer shell of an object. You’ll notice this is measured in
% instead of mm like the layer height. If an object is printed with 100% infill, it will be completely solid on
the inside. The higher the percentage of infill, the stronger and heavier the object will be, and the more
time and filament it will take to print. This can get expensive and time consuming if you’re printing with
100% infill every time – so keep in mind what you’ll be using your print for.

If you’re creating an item for display, 10-20% infill is recommended. If you need something that is going
to be more functional and sturdy, 75-100% infill is more appropriate. Cura infill creates a grid like
pattern inside your object which gives the top layers of your model more support.

One of our community members, Dan Steele (https://pinshape.com/users/11828-dan-steele?

utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings) is a fan of more infill than less:

“For infill I have rarely found myself regretting adding to much, and have often been disappointed by adding to
little. For something with a large surface area on top I would generally use a minimum of 18% infill. For
something I wanted to be mechanically strong I would throw an extra shell in and go up to 40% infill.”

To see the effects of different infill settings yourself, check out Eunny’s great Infill display for teaching
(https://pinshape.com/items/9157-3d-printed-infill-percent-display-for-teaching).

(https://pinshape.com/items/9157-3d-printed-infill-percent-display-for-teaching?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

5. Print Speed
Print speed refers to the speed at which the extruder travels while it lays down filament. Optimal settings
depend on what design you’re printing, the filament you’re using, the printer, and your layer height. Of
course, everyone wants to print their object as quickly as possible, but fast print speeds can cause
complications and messy looking prints. 1

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Page 8 of 21
 For complicated prints, a slower speed will give you a higher quality print. A good starting point that Cura
recommends is 50mm/s. You can also play around with speed and see what works best for your printer.

6. Supports
Supports are structures that help hold up 3D objects that don’t have enough base material to build off
of as they are being printed. Since objects are printed in layers, parts of an object that extend past a 45
degree angle will have nothing for the first layer of filament to build on. These are called overhangs and
can create a drooping look without supports.

How do you know whether or not your design needs supports?

Just remember, Joe Larson’s (http://joes3dworkbench.blogspot.ca/2014/05/3d-printing-tip-designing-

with-supports.html) YHT rule (http://joes3dworkbench.blogspot.ca/2014/05/3d-printing-tip-designing-
with-supports.html):

1. Anything in a “Y” shape is safe to print without support because it’s a gradual slope which still
has enough material beneath it to keep it from drooping. This is another way to think of the
45 Degree Rule, which states that in general, overhangs with a slope greater than 45 degrees
will require supports.

2. Designs that take the form of an “H”, where the middle overhang connects to either side is
called bridging. Any type of bridge should have supports to prevent drooping or a messy
print.

3. Anything with a “T” shaped overhang will need support to avoid drooping.
Support Type
In the drop down menu, there are two types of support you can choose from:

Touching Build Plate – this is for designs where the section of the design that needs the support can
attach to the build plate like this:

×
Want more 3D
printing
awesomeness?
We'll send you our coolest stories, hottest

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 We'll send you our coolest stories, hottest
Everywhere
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designs weekly!

overhangs in a place that won’t attach to a support coming from the build plate. The head on this
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YES, I <3 3D PRINTING his chest.
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(https://pinshape.com/items/8859-3d-printed-batman-for-3d-printing?
utm_source=blog&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=slicersettings)

7. Platform Adhesion Type

These settings will affect how your model sticks to the print bed. Warping at the bottom of a design can
be a main culprit for prints not sticking to a print bed, but there are two main settings you can adjust to
help with platform adhesion:

Raft: A horizontal grid that goes under the object that acts as a platform to stick to the bed and
build from. They can also be useful when printing models with small parts at the bottom of your
print, like animal feet. If you do choose to use a raft, it will leave rough edges on the bottom of your
print when you remove it.

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Page 10 of 21
 Brim: Like a brim of a hat, brims are lines around the bottom of the object which keep the corners of
your model down without leaving marks on the bottom of the object. This is a better option if your
main objective is to get your model to stick to the print bed. Brims can also be used to stabilize
delicate parts of an object that are isolated from the rest of the model like the legs of a table.

8. Initial layer thickness

This is located in advanced settings in Cura and refers to the thickness of your very first layer on the print
bed. If you want a more sturdy base for your print, you can make the initial layer thicker. The default on
Cura is .3mm which gives a thick bottom layer that’s easy to build on and sticks to the platform well.

What’s the difference between initial layer thickness and bottom/top thickness in the basic settings?
While the initial layer thickness is the very first layer that goes down, the bottom and top thickness
refers to how many mm of solid material will be set down before your infill is created.

These are the basic settings for a slicer program – if you want to get into more advanced territory,
there are more settings but these are the main ones a beginner needs to be aware of.

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Page 11 of 21
 PRO TIP: When venturing into more complicated prints, 3D printing pro Zheng3 has a few steps to add
on to Chris Halliday’s advice on changing one setting at a time:

1. Write down all your settings. Label these settings as a group with a capital letter. e.g. rex_A, rex_B,
rex_C. Screenshots of print settings will be handy here.
2. Write the letter on the finished print with a Sharpie so that you can reference the results when you’re
studying a barrel full of mostly-identical test prints.
3. Change one and only one slicing parameter and repeat from step 1 until you are satisfied with the
print.

4 Different 3D Slicer Programs

If you haven’t figured out which slicer program works best with your printer, here’s some options on the
market to get you started:

Cura (Free)
Cura is made by Ultimaker and is extremely user friendly & fast so it’s great for beginners. It is not a
proprietary software so it works for multiple different printers. The tradeoff of the ease of use is that you
have less control over some of the more detailed settings. There are, however lots of plugin options for
you to add if you need any of those extra features.

(https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software)

Slic3r (Free)
This is an open source slicing project started by the RepRap (http://reprap.org/)Community & works on
multiple printers. Their focus and design goal is ease of use and maintaining the original design. One
unique feature is that it allows you to vary the infill pattern across layers which can increase the strength
of your print. The user interface has improved dramatically since they just started and it has positive
reviews from most of the community.

(http://slic3r.org/download)

Simplify3D ($149 USD)

This is one of the paid slicers on the market — so why should you choose to pay when you have so many
other options for free? The main point we’ve heard from the community is speed & control. It has so
many detailed settings which include the ability to see and adjust every layer of your model & creates
better quality supports that you can manually place and are easier to remove. It is also extremely fast at
slicing. Apparently the fastest on the market. Another bonus is their software is compatible with many
different printers and offers support for close to 200 3D printers
(https://www.simplify3d.com/software/supported-printers/).

Although there is no free trial version of this software, they do let you return the software within two
weeks if you don’t like it. If you are a more advanced maker and care about control and speed, the
investment might be worth it!

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Page 12 of 21
 (https://www.simplify3d.com/buy-now/)

Makerbot Desktop (Free)

Formerly known as Makerware, the Makerbot slicer software has been rebranded as Makerbot Desktop.
The settings are similar to Cura and are very basic and easy to navigate. You can also create custom
profiles in this software but there is no user interface for this function so you must use a text editor.
Feedback from the community is that it can be very slow compared to alternatives. You can download
this software from the Makerbot website.

PRO TIP:: Still need some advice on how to figure out slicers? Here’s a great overall tip from a 3D printing
expert Richard Horne, compliments of 3D printing for beginners: (http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/3d-
printing-tips/)

“Print out lots of 20mm cubes. It’s quite a boring object, but it can help ensure you have a well setup and
calibrated machine.”

If you have another favourite slicer that you use, tell us about it! Anything we didn’t cover? Let us know
and we can write about it in our next blog!

(http://pinshape.com)

Related

(https://pinshape.com/blog/10- (https://pinshape.com/blog/top- (https://pinshape.com/blog/3-

advanced-3d-slicer-settings-
that-will-save-your-prints/)
10 Advanced 3D Slicer Settings
That Will Save Your Prints!
(https://pinshape.com/blog/10-
advanced-3d-slicer-settings-that-
10-most-popular-3d-printing-
articles-of-2015-on-pinshape/)
Top 10 Most Popular 3D Printing
Articles of 2015 on Pinshape!
(https://pinshape.com/blog/top-
10-most-popular-3d-printing-
most-common-3d-printer-
errors-and-fixes/)
3 Most Common 3D Printer Errors
and Their Fixes
(https://pinshape.com/blog/3-
most-common-3d-printer-errors-

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Page 13 of 21
 will-save-your-prints/) articles-of-2015-on-pinshape/) and-fixes/)
January 25, 2016 January 4, 2016 April 28, 2016
In "Pinshape News" In "Industry News" In "Guides"

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Steven Cook
2 years ago
− ⚑

I have used Skeinforge, Slic3r, Cura, Mattercontrol, and Simplify3d. I perfer Simplify3d as it has a built in
simulation. The ability to put supports anywhere and adjust them as mentioned above. Also it works very
fast on slicing. Where it would take 10 to 30 min for one of my models, Simplify3d takes seconds. It also
color codes the layers for dual extruders. I was pleasantly surprised that it supported my AW3D printer.
3△ ▽ Reply

Rights For Whites > Steven Cook

− ⚑
4 months ago

S3D is the best out there still, at least for my FlashForge Creator (MakerBot clone), it's true. (Well, I
haven't tried Matterslice, but I have tried the others).

That said, it's missing a few features that Slic3r has, and that people have been begging for for years on
S3D's forum, to no avail. However, Slic3r is itself quite compromised and I can't recommend it.
△ ▽ Reply

Chris Halliday
− ⚑
2 years ago
Not much I can add to this well thought out article! Id only suggest changing one setting at a time to avoid
not understanding which setting helped you or hurt you and to keep good notes!
1△ ▽ Reply

Pinshape > Chris Halliday

− ⚑

https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ 06/07/2017, 08D54

Page 14 of 21
 Pinshape > Chris Halliday
− ⚑
2 years ago
Great advice Chris! We've added this to the article!
△ ▽ Reply

Tanya Wiesner
− ⚑
2 years ago
Personal opinion as someone who as used both Cura and simplify3d, simplify3d has better algorithms for
slicing than Cura as it is a program dedicated to supporting multiple printers. Cura on the other hand is
owned by Ultimaker and mainly supports their brand of printers and other printers are a second priority. I'm
not against Cura and definitely recommend the program for beginners but I've seen better prints come from
my printrbot using Simplify3d with little changes to the settings. Similar settings in Cura for my printer are
decent but no where near the quality I get from using the paid software. Have not tried slic3r.
1△ ▽ Reply

whistletalker
3 months ago
− ⚑

Repair Bad STL files play list on YouTube

▶ Repair STL Files - YouTube — disq.us
△ ▽ Reply

Bill H.
− ⚑
3 months ago
Hello this may seem like a crazy question I am still a bit of a Noob when it comes to 3d printing but I just
recently got simplify 3D and was using Matter Control before that for my Robo 3d R1 Plus. I just compared
the two with print times for the same item found on Thingiverse. My Matter Control software first off gave me
a warning that the item being printed was too difficult and could cause problems 2nd after taking forever to
slice said it would take 11 hours to print. I then opened up Simplify 3D and it had no issues at all with the
print and told me it would only take 4 hours to print the item both slicers are loaded with default settings and
both defaults are pretty similar with speeds at 60mm's a second. Infill's are both set the same at 10% any
suggestions as to why Matter Control would take so much longer? just curious. Thanks for the help in
advance.

see more

△ ▽ Reply

MJNCR
− ⚑
a year ago
I use Craftware from CraftUnique - Does a great job and is reviewed well.
https://craftunique.com/cra...
△ ▽ Reply

Camilo Parra Palacio

− ⚑
a year ago

FlashPrint slicer is nice,only work for FlashForge 3d printers but have a treelike automatic support generator
that can save your material and is easy to post process.
△ ▽ Reply

https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ 06/07/2017, 08D54

Page 15 of 21
 △ ▽ Reply

DG
− ⚑
a year ago

Have you tried MatterControl - would love to see that added to the Software packages.
△ ▽ Reply

Heather Chen
− ⚑
2 years ago
Great for starters. I have a specific question. Do you have any suggestions on slicer settings that would work
well in this scenario: Printing an object with a large flat base on a printer without a heated bed (such as
Printrbot Metal Simple), typically using PLA. This type of print tends warp quite a bit. I have tried leaving the
fan off for the first several layers which does work to some degree. But I was wondering if using more (or
fewer?) solid bottom layers, or changing shell thickness (thicker or less), or infill density can make any
difference.
△ ▽ Reply

Chris Halliday > Heather Chen

− ⚑
2 years ago
Im surprised your PLA is warping. Have you tried printing on a raft? And have you had any success doing
that?
△ ▽ Reply

Heather Chen > Chris Halliday

− ⚑
2 years ago

I haven't tried it with raft. I will try it.

△ ▽ Reply

Tanya Wiesner > Heather Chen

− ⚑
2 years ago
Re-calibrate your printer so you get proper first layer squishing. Clean out your printer's nozzle
thoroughly every so often as a dirty nozzle can sometimes prevent proper adhesion to the bed. Use
blue painter's tape. Print with a large brim that connects to the print. Print slower. Adjust your temp.
Place a large cardboard box over the printer to eliminate drafts. Check your filament for contamination
and add a filament cleaner to your printer to clean dust and other contaminates that can build up on
the filament just from sitting around. You can use rafts but it isn't guaranteed to prevent warping. It
may be that the design you are trying to print has to many stress points and isn't optimal for 3d
printing. Check out the forums for more tips.

see more

△ ▽ Reply

Tanya Wiesner > Tanya Wiesner

− ⚑
2 years ago

I should add, worst case scenario is to try a different slicer program.

△ ▽ Reply

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Page 16 of 21
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