Stylebook Compressed

Stylebook
Amanda Odorico
Ryerson University
Student No. 500550838
FFD40B-Senior Fashion Design Project
Professor Glynis Dupuis
DUE DATE: April 12, 2017 by 3pm
Table of Contents
Design Philosophy and Collection Inspiration..................................................................4
Fashion Illustrations.........................................................................................................5
Summary Sheet and Fabric Swatches.............................................................................6
Numbering Systems.........................................................................................................7
Collection: Research and Development...........................................................................8
Technicals with Fabric Swatches...................................................................................20
Cost Sheets with Fabric Swatches.................................................................................34
Collection Analysis.........................................................................................................47
Conclusion.....................................................................................................................60
Appendix........................................................................................................................61
References.....................................................................................................................62
Evaluation......................................................................................................................63
Design Philosophy and Collection Inspiration
Flux by chAOs is a women’s athleisure collection debuting for Fall/Winter 2017. The
notion of Flux is inspired by the kinetic motion and constant flow of waves and the
nonstop movement of water. No matter how still the water along the shoreline look,
there is an uninterrupted shift in the water. Flux is a noun for constant flow or flowing,
nada, where the inspiration was taken from,
the water colours where darker tones and hues, with the contrasting white foam along
the shoreline, and the glimmers of blue when the sun reflects on the surface of the
water. It was reflected in the collection by including blacks and greys, with contrasting
whites and pops of blue throughout.
The Flux woman is a busy and active woman that wants something that is unique,
yet able to fit easily in her wardrobe. Flux by chAOs has a design philosophy where the
target consumer, is the person that is focused on and designed around. By looking for
gaps in the market, Flux by chAOs will bring comfortable athleisure clothing that stands
out, and is different than what is already offered.
4
Fashion Illustrations
5
Summary Sheet and Fabric Swatches
Wavelength
Swelling
86% Polyester
86% Nylon
14% Spandex
14% Spandex
Cresting
66.5% Rayon Bamboo
28.5% Cotton
5% Spandex
Troughing
80% Nylon
20% Spandex
Wave Speed
100% Polyester
Amplitude
89% Rayon
11% Nylon
Frequency
Ripple
90% Polyester
81% Nylon
10% Lycra 6
19% Spandex
Numbering Systems
F 17 X X X
Brand Name: Flux Year: 2017 Fabric No. Garment Type Details
Fabric No. Garment Type Details

Wavelength-100 Dress-100 N/A-100
Frequency-200 Jacket-200 Reflective-200
Troughing-300 Sweater-300 Mesh Paneling-300
Amplitude-400 Top-400
Wave Speed-500 Pants-500
Ripple-600
Swelling-700
Cresting-800
The numbering system for this collection allows it to be easily used and meant for
mass production. At the beginning of the number system, the letter F is used to
represent the name of the brand, as it is meant for mass production, there will be
other companies using the same manufacturer, this allows for easy reference. Then
the year of the collection will be referenced, in this case 17 will be inputted as the
debut for the collection is in fall/winter 2017. Next is the fabric number, that is listed
above. Only using the first number in the sequence of three digits needs to be listed,
for example, ripple’s number is 600, but the only number that needs to be inserted in
the style number is 6. Same goes for the garment type and detailing section. Garment
type references whether it is a dress, top, pant, jacket, or sweater. Lastly, any special
details is referenced in under the last digit, if there is reflective trim or mesh paneling
place in a garment it will be referenced there.
7
Collection: Research and Development
Purpose of Study
The purpose of the research proposal is to explore target market and to create a
suitable collection, and the research of this market will determine how the designs of
Flux can be successful within this chosen demographic. In addition, the study will reveal
the collection's market competition and as well as the required successful
merchandising within retail locations. Information needed on the target market includes
age, lifestyle, financial situation and priorities. To know the existing competition and
where their merchandise is sold will help in designing a different, unique and
detailed-oriented product and the best location to layout the brand for best sale results
to the appropriate consumer. Study results will come from reading trend reports,
technology articles, interviews with industry professionals, and a specialist, all of which
will be used as a guide to narrow down the needs of the proposed target market, the
current merchandise available and what works or lacks functionality and, most
importantly, any strategy to creating successful designs that stand out in today's large
fashion industry.
Justification
Within today's female athleisure market there are subsections of women which include
All Day Actives, Protein Princesses, Ath-Fakers and Fashleisures (Athleisure Style
Tribes, 2016, 2). The All Day Actives believe in daily fitness and attempts to incorporate
it in various ways within a busy and hectic life. They want functional and comfortable
clothing in today's current styles. Protein Princesses are generally Millennials and work
on aspirational fitness goals for social media in order to brag about being healthy
8
(Athleisure Style Tribes, 2016, 3-6). Many of these women wear tight garments that
shape and mold to the body to show off their figures. Ath-fakers want to look like they
work out, however they may actually have not entered a gym in months or even years.
Lastly, the Fashleisures are more concerned with high end labels than fitness and tend
to mix luxury fashion with sportswear (Athleisure Style Tribes, 2016, 3-6).
With these subcategories highlighted, Flux is going to target the All Day Active
females and provide them with affordable and unique clothes that are functional but
with a classic fashion look that can be mixed with their current fitness wardrobe. All Day
Active females who fall within the demographic of Generation Y value quality clothing
with a price point that is justifiable with the design aesthetics and details (Galambos &
Krahn, 2013, p.93). The trend information needed for a successful collection includes
color and construction details. The popular colors for the 2017 autumn/winter season
are various tones of greys, piercing blacks, and clean whites with a bright contrasting
colour to add 'pop' to the outfit. Flux will use the seasonal tones integrated with
assorted blues in different intensities to allow for harmony with clothing currently owned
(Active Colour Analysis, 2015, 3).
In order for this collection to be victorious in an already competitive industry, Flux
must be urban chic and able to synchronize with pieces in the female closet and stand
the time (Fowler & Reisenwitz, 2014, p174). Furthermore, items must be easy to wash,
wear and care for, for today's busy existence. Moreover, with the overabundance of
lycra and spandex in the market, there is a large gap of oversized pieces for athleisure
wear. A strong feminine article with distinctive design details allows the garment to
stand out or to create a variety of looks (All Day Active, 2015, p.7).
9
Conducted research provides the following data:
1. People watching can show what is current but it is important to be able to
decipher what is a mass produced item chosen and worn without much thought (i.e.,
hoodies and sweats) and what is either a timeless classic piece or fashion forward
garment to be worn for longer than the current season.
2. Textiles need to be tested to ensure the proper technology is chosen for a
particular garment. Testing incudes washing and drying, breathability, feeling it against
the skin (Yogawear Textiles, 2013, 4-9) and, most importantly, putting it through
multiple fields (i.e., leggings are worn in multiple settings such as hot yoga, pilates and
running and not a single product test) (Hope, personal communication, September 21,
2016).
3. In conjunction with observation and testing, publication reviews such as reading
fashion reports, textile articles and color forecasting trends will provide up to date
information and outline upcoming style direction. WGSN, in particular, provides a
reliable and excellent resource of expected future movement in the industry (Key Items
Active Women, 2015, 2-18).
4. Lastly, in order to understand the needs of the target market, industry
professionals will be interviewed to get a unique perspective to capture the interest of
the intended target market. By personal, telephone or email conferences these industry
professionals provide insight on their particular markets, customers’ lifestyle needs,
garment requirements and which current popular product is being worn. An additional
source of information is a student massage therapist who has studied ligaments,
10
muscles and bones. With her expertise key features to benefit the body relating to
perspiration, movement and thermal regulation is provided for consideration. As this is
an athleisure line meant to focus on the comfortability of the consumer, someone
specializing in the health professional field is an excellent source to draw upon.
Methodology
In order to determine the scope and design of the collection, the research has been
documented by many formats and in multiple steps with primary research being street
observation, textile testing and conducting interviews with industry professional, while
secondary research includes publication reviews.
On the next page, Table 1 sets out the schedule of specific tasks, both primary and
secondary completed.
11
Table 1
Specific Tasks and Timeline
12
Customer/Target Market Analysis
The customer for Flux clothing is an educated female between 25 and 35 years of
age who earns an average to above average salary, which is roughly between $40,000
to $75,000, and is willing to spend money on good quality garments that will last a long
time and provide multiple uses. Publication and interview research reveals that this
market range will benefit from features that include strategically placed panels such as
mesh to minimize the body overheating, reflective piping to add safety functionality, and
silhouettes of garments cut to minimize confinement and circulation restriction. As well,
design aspects of the line will include loose fitting jackets but with a feminine taper,
pant fitting with a higher waistline and a lowered crotch, and versatility such as tops
without defined front and back. Generation Y will appreciate these design aspects
(Hope, personal communication, September 21, 2016).
This person works in a profession that keeps her constantly on the move, whether
she is a physiotherapist showing patients stretches, working in child care and chasing
down kids all day, or an independent female that works from home and not have a
specific dress code. She can also be an office worker who cycles or walks to her place
of employment, or any female who is willing to invest in an exceptional garment will
want to be seen wearing Flux. The multipurpose coverings will be able to adapt to every
part of her busy day. She is aware that she needs to be a priority to herself, as well as
her family, so she looks for garments that help her take care of herself and her body
(To, personal communication, September 17, 2016).
13
Design Implications of the Customer/Target Market Analysis
With the research completed it is clear what current design features are in today’s
athleisure and athletic wear and details that need to be either incorporated within Flux
or avoided based on the needs and wants of Generation Y. Currently a younger
demographic is found purchasing and wearing athletic wear, however, Flux will target
females slightly older who have started their careers and have more disposable income
than the younger group (Hope, personal communication, September 21, 2016). Flux is
not luxury wear nor is it quick and cheap fast fashion.
The Flux woman is looking for garments that can be tossed on for a light workout at
the gym and with its breathability fabric confident to continue to wear it while handling
errands post workout, or worn in social situations like coffee or drinks with her
girlfriends. While researching a wide variety of existing brands and from talks with
fashion professionals, it is apparent that females today are looking for garments that
offer features that allow them to wear that piece in multiple ways to increase its
usefulness (Oehlschlager, personal communication, September 18, 2016). For
example, a jacket that has zippers in either the arm or armhole seam can be removed
to uncover a new look for the jacket. By creating an article that has multiple looks it is
more likely to be a favorable selling feature as it can be added to an existing wardrobe
for future mix and match (Graydon, personal communication, September 19, 2016).
Furthermore, adding safety features such as reflective strips, with design aesthetic
creates a unique and different look. Reflective strips not only keep the consumer
visible, it adds contrast to the garment. Also it is clear that competing companies and
designers currently offer mostly form fitting pieces that contour the body (To, personal
14
communication, September 17, 2016). However, with Flux, as the majority of the body
types are not the skinny runway model that we have come accustom to seeing in
advertisements, another focus and different pathway is to provide wider pant legs, such
as, harem pants. Generally, athleisure fits tighter with the use of spandex and Lycra
whereas luxury fashion is fitting wider, often with busy prints. The designer plans to go
against the grain and look to a more a flattering, yet looser approach to the garments.
Moreover, while talking to a specialist who understands how the body functions, the
researcher discovered that areas that have folds (i.e. armpits, behind the knees, neck,
feet, and towards the breast) tend to generate more sweat causing discomfort (Arana,
personal communication, September 17, 2016). In order to alleviate the
unpleasantness, mesh and lightweight breathable panels will be placed. These mesh
panels will enable consumers to cool down quicker.
Competitive Analysis
Table 2 and Table 3 on the next couple pages set out the major competitors in the
market along with a summary of the number of styles for each merchandise category
offered in athletic and athleisure wear. A quick review of Table 2 reflects the excess
styles of Lycra and spandex leggings in comparison to the styles of mixed fabric pants.
Table 4 reflects the characteristics and quality of the garments, the cohesion within a
collection, the price point versus the quality, as well as the designer’s opinion as to the
ranking of each competitor within the market (best quality to least quality).
15
Table 2
Visual Competitive Analysis
Table 3
Statisical Competitive Analysis
Tanks Tees Shorts Leggings Pants Hoodies Jackets

Ardith 6 5 2 6 2 2 0
Diadora 4 3 2 7 3 3 0
Hyba 29 22 3 28 4 3 7
Lolë 34 30 5 29 14 2 4
Lululemon 29 9 20 27 4 7 10
Nike 27 30 31 10 0 14 11
Pink 12 6 7 17 1 11 0
Titika 16 14 10 22 10 15 13
Zella 9 8 5 16 1 3 4
16
Table 4
Designer Characteristics and Quality of Garments

Rank Store Justifications Comparisons/Differences with
Flux
1. Zella at • Innovation • Reflective materials
Nordstrom • Quality woven into the fabric
• Variations of styles and whereas Flux will have it
colours sewn in
2. Lolë • Quality fabric and • Has the most pant
construction selection of all
• Variation of styles competitors, however still
is a slim fit. Flux is going
to be a wider fit and taper
inward
3. Titika • Styles are sleek and • Uses mainly a wick away
sporty that are durable spandex or Lycra
• The finishing of the whereas Flux will focus
garments is impressive on breathability by
strategically placing mesh
panels
4. Flux • Unique styles N/A
• Quality Construction
• Price for Quality
5. Lululemon • Selection in store is • Repetitive styles
repetitive throughout legging. Flux
• Overpriced for selection will design different styles
that appeals to a variation
of tastes
6. Nike • Overpriced for quality • Uses overly bright
colours that clashes with
someone’s wardrobe
7. Pink by • Selection of styles • Many of the garments
Victoria’s • Quality of Fabrics have thin fabrics that are
Secret see-through in less than
ideal locations. Flux will
place panels in certain
areas to ensure coverage
8. Ardith • Not many styles offered • Many of the edges on the
• Fairly overpriced garments were not
finished, which made the
collection look
incomplete. With Flux,
crisp and finished edges
are key
17
9. Hyba by • Styles are repetitive • Repetitive styles
Reitman’s • Very little variation from throughout legging. Flux
tank tops and leggings will design different
styles that appeals to a
variation of tastes
10. Diadora at • Quality of construction • Uses overly bright
Sport • Selection of styles is colours that clashes with
Chek narrow someone’s wardrobe
Design Implications of the Competitive Analysis
From the designer’s personal observations and the primary source information
derived from the professional industry interviews, the competitors appear to provide the
market with an over abundance of tight fitting spandex/Lycra made leggings and tanks,
often in bold prints and patterns that create a sexual appeal which attracts the younger
generation. On the other end of the scale, they promote logoed sloth comfort in their
baggy hoodies and sweat pants. These pieces are geared more for the Millennials than
to the market of the Generation Y.
The designer’s clothes will incorporate functions and details such as convertible
jackets and non-defining front/back tops as well as loose fitting age appropriate pants
for the woman wanting to take care of herself and feel and look good at the same time.
The upscale pant options are refreshing choice from leggings and sweat pants currently
offered. The Flux line look will have a timeless appeal.
By referring to Table 4 above you will note the differences in what each major
competitor offers and what is being considered in this clothing line by chAOs.
18
Selling Opportunities
Flux is a brand that targets women who live in urban and suburban North America
and will be sold in major cities which include Toronto, Vancouver, Montreal, Los Angles,
New York and Seattle. This casual athleisure would be sold at above mid to average
department stores as well as single focused fashion stores as the current consumer of
this line would go to these types of stores and be noticed, such as Sport Chek,
Nordstrom, The Bay. At this time the designer is not considering Europe or Asia as a
viable option. The designer’s experience is that Europe, in particular, tends to have a
different attitude towards fashion and hesitates to wear the Flux type label in public.
Being the new kid on the block in a tight competitive market, the designer does not
expect to be easily accepted by the department and fashion stores. This actually works
to the designer’s advantage and mass production will not be initially required and the
designer can focus on quality control to resolve unexpected issues.
Flux will be provided online as well as in popup locations. Research has shown that
popup locations have proven successful in the past (Bucuta, 2015, p. 40). Having
locations within large malls or major intersections in downtown areas will boost
awareness and popularity of Flux.
19
F-17-2.122
Self Contrast Trim

21
F-17-6.143
Self Contrast
22
F-17-6.243
Self Contrast
29
F-17-452
Self Trim
30
F-17-832
Self Contrast Trim

31
F-17-713
Self Contrast
32
F-17-422
Self Trim
33
Cost Sheet
Student Name: Amanda Odorico Season: Fall/Winter 2017
Section: 02
Style #: F-17-112 Pattern Number: 1001
Piece Goods Technical Sketch
Description Width Price per yardage Cost

yd./m
Wave Length1.88 yds 5.99 1.167 $ 6.99

Troughing 1.64 yds 5.49 0.09 $ 0.49
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Piece Goods total $ 7.48
Allowance (+10% piece goods subtotal) $ 0.75
Piece Goods final total $ 8.23
Trimmings
Description Size/color Unit Price Quantity Cost
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Thread Black 0.02 9 $ 0.18
Ribbing Grey 5.49 0.33 $ 1.81
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings total $ 2.12
Labour Fabric Swatches
Labour-sewing/cutting Self Fusing Contrast Lining Others

$ 15.00
Labour pressing (if applicable)
N/A N/A
labour finishing (if applicable)
Source Source Source Source Source

$ -
$ -
Fabricana N/A Fabricana N/A Fabricana
$ -
Other Cost (must be specific)
$ - Content Content Content Content Content
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) $ 15.00 80% Nylon
86% 95% Cotton 5%
N/A 20% N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming Polyester
Spandex
Spandex
total +labour cost total) $ 25.35
Sample Cost (1% of all cost) Whole Sale Price: $ 55.00
$ 0.25
Total Costs Suggested Retail Price: $ 110.00
$ 25.61
34
Cost Sheet
Section: 02
Style #: F-17-2.122 Pattern Number: 6001

yd./m
M
Neoprene 1.62 14.99 1.31 $ 19.64

Air Mesh 1.6 5.49 0.26 $ 1.43
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Snaps Black 0.25 1 $ 0.25
Thread Black 0.02 6.5 $ 0.13
Reflective N/A 2.49 1.39 $ 3.46
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 33.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ - Affordable
N/A Fabricana N/A N/A
Textiles
$ -
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) $ 33.00 90%
100%
Polyester N/A N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 10% Lycra
Polyester
$ 0.60
$ 60.74
35
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Self 1.64 7.49 0.75 $ 5.62

Contrast 1.64 5.49 0.389 $ 2.14
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 15.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ -
Fabricana N/A Fabricana N/A N/A
$ -
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) $ 15.00 81% Nylon 80% Nylon
19% N/A 20% N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming Spandex Spandex
$ 0.24
$ 23.90
36
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Self 1.53 7.49 1.278 $ 9.57

Fusing 1 1.99 0.083 $ 0.17
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Ribbing Grey 5.49 0.09 $ 0.49
Elastic White 0.99 0.69 $ 0.68
Cording Black 0.49 1.22 $ 0.60
Caps Grey 0.40 1 $ 0.40
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 20.00
N/A N/A

$ -
Leather
$ - and
Fabricana N/A N/A Fabricana
Sewing
$ - Supply

100% 95% Cotton
Rayon N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 11% Nylon
Tricot 5% Spandex
$ 0.33
$ 33.35
37
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Self 1.88 5.99 1.111 $ 6.65

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Reflective N/A 2.49 0.5 $ 1.25
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 16.00
N/A N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ -
Fabricana N/A N/A N/A N/A
$ -
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) 86%
$ 16.00 Polyester
N/A N/A N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 14%
total +labour cost total) $ 24.70 Spandex

$ 0.25
$ 24.94
38
Cost Sheet
Student Name: Amanda Odorico Season: Fall/ Winter 2017
Section: 02

yd./m
Self 1.64 7.49 0.83 $ 6.22

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Thread White 0.02 7 $ 0.14
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 5.00
N/A N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ - Affordable
N/A N/A N/A N/A
Textiles
$ -
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) $ 5.00 86% Nylon
14% N/A N/A N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming Spandex
$ 0.12
$ 12.23
39
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Active Brush 1.88 5.99 1.61 $ 9.64

Fusing 1 1.99 0.15 $ 0.30
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Ribbing Grey 5.49 0.09 $ 0.49
Thread Black 0.02 9.5 $ 0.19
Caps Grey 0.40 1 $ 0.40
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 20.00
N/A N/A

$ -
Leather
$ - and
Fabricana N/A N/A Fabricana
Sewing
$ - Depot

Labour cost total (labour and other costs) 86%
$ 20.00 Polyester 100% 95% Cotton
N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 14% Tricot 5% Spandex
total +labour cost total) $ 33.43 Spandex

$ 0.33
$ 33.77
40
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Neoprene 1.62 14.99 1.167 $ 17.49

Air Mesh 1.6 5.49 0.39 $ 2.14
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Snaps Black 0.25 2 $ 0.50
Thread Black 0.02 9 $ 0.18
Reflective N/A 2.49 3.4 $ 8.47
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 30.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ - Affordable
N/A Fabricana N/A N/A
Textiles
$ -
100%
Polyester N/A N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 10% Lycra
Polyester
$ 0.61
$ 61.48
41
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Self 1.64 7.49 0.67 $ 5.02

Contrast 1.64 5.49 0.4 $ 2.20
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 10.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ -
Fabricana N/A Fabricana N/A N/A
$ -
19% N/A 20% N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming Spandex Spandex
$ 0.18
$ 18.25
42
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Rayon 1.53 7.49 1.3 $ 9.74

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Reflective N/A 2.49 0.86 $ 2.14
Caps Grey 0.40 1 $ 0.40
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 15.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
Leather
$ -
Fabricana and N/A N/A N/A
Sewing
$ -
100%
Rayon N/A N/A N/A
Tricot
$ 0.30
$ 29.96
43
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
White Terry 1.64 7.99 1.06 $ 8.47

$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Ribbing Grey 5.49 1.6 $ 8.78
Reflective N/A 2.49 0.125 $ 0.31
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 17.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
$ -
Fabricana N/A N/A N/A Fabricana
$ -
Labour cost total (labour and other costs) $ 17.00
66.5% Rayon
Bamboo 95% Cotton
N/A N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming 28.5% Cotton 5% Spandex
5% Spandex
$ 0.36
$ 35.90
44
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
White Nylon 1.64 7.49 1.2 $ 8.99

Stretch Mesh 1.64 5.49 1.2 $ 6.59
Fusing 1 1.99 0.1 $ 0.20
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Caps Grey 0.40 1 $ 0.40
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 20.00
N/A N/A

$ -
Leather
$ - and
World Sew Fabricana N/A N/A
Sewing
$ - Supplies

100%
14% 20% N/A N/A
Total Sample cost (piece good final+trimming Spandex
Tricot
Spandex
$ 0.39
$ 39.56
45
Cost Sheet
Section: 02

yd./m
Rayon 1.53 7.49 2 $ 14.98

Fusing 1 1.99 0.25 $ 0.50
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
Trimmings
Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Snaps N/A 0.25 3 $ 0.75
Reflective N/A 2.49 2.32 $ 5.78
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -
$ -

$ 25.00
N/A N/A N/A

$ -
Leather
$ - and
Fabricana N/A N/A N/A
Sewing
$ - Supplies

100%
Rayon N/A N/A N/A
Tricot
$ 0.49
$ 49.17
46
F-17-112
Recommendations for Assembly Feasibility of Designs for Production
• Use a four thread serger to sew all • Need to slightly lower the price if
seams in the dress the target consumer wants to be
• The sample production only able to purchase it. Needs to
requires two machines; same with change from $110 CAD to $85
mass production, however, it will (retail value)
be set up in a way that the worker • One way to cut back on costs is
does not have to go back and forth using a less expensive self-fabric
threading machines • It can be produced at a lower price
• Keeping the same assembly steps point in China while being mass
from sample production to mass produced
production • All of the operations are critical in
order to construct the garment (i.e.
serging and cover seaming)
Recommendations for Change

• Two changes will improve the overall garment:
(1) Take out the seam along the center back to reduce cutting costs and fabric
waste
(2) Using a more luxurious ribbing along the neckline to match the soft poly-
spandex blend dress
47
F-17-2.122
• Recommending steaming and • The jacket retails for $250 CAD,
pressing during production as well and in order to lower production
as post production costs, the design aspects would
have to change. Since there is so
many seams and pieces, it raises
the prices, especially in mass
production

• Two major changes in the jacket:
(1) Using a single layer of neoprene instead of a double layer because it
became too heavy when it was assembled. Hopefully, using a thinner
neoprene will also reduce bulk in the seams
(2) Changing the type of reflective tape because it was a woven material, so it
puckered within seams and there were issues when it was placed on a
curved seam. Instead using a fuse on reflective patch would work better
with moving within the garment and the seams.
48
F-17-6.143
• Production for this top was easy • In order for the top to sell, the cost
and straightforward to produce would have to be lower than $70
• Serge and then cover seam the CAD retail value, but with mass
mesh sleeves in black thread, then production, hopefully the cost
change the threading in the would be reduced significantly
machines to blue thread, first
serge and cover seam
• As a sample it was easy to
produce, and within mass
production it would be easy to
produce

• Only one change possible for the garment (however doing the change will
increase the cost due to extra pieces, cutting, and labour):
(1) Add a facing on the back cowl so when it drapes, people do not see the
inside or the “bad side” of the fabric
49
F-17-451
• Using a rayon, it needed to be • The pants that retail for $130
pressed constantly during CAD, which is a reasonable cost
production, which helped, and will considering the fabric and the
help in mass production while in labour and construction that goes
construction into the pants
• This design is feasible for sample
making as well as mass production

• Two changes for future production:
(1) Creating deeper pockets which runs over the side seam. The sample
pockets were not deep enough, and if an item, for example a phone is
placed in the pocket it would be visible because it would stick out
(2) Adding more gathered fabric around the calf and making the ribbing larger.
This will create a fullness in the pant leg that matches other components
within the collection, and the larger rib will allow for larger calf sizes to fit
into the pants.
50
F-17-132
• As a sample piece and as a mass • With the retail cost placed at
produced piece it is feasible. $100 CAD for this sweater, it is
Creating a marker was reasonable considering the
straightforward because of the amount of time for cutting and
angles of the yokes, it made it assembling all of the yokes
easy to place the pieces close to • However, as a starting brand, the
each other, being economical. cost needs to be lower in order to
• Step by step procedures were make a profit and actually gain
straightforward and easy to do in sales
both sample and mass production. • Possibly using a different type of
The assembly of the front and poly-spandex blend however that
back is simple, and then combining would change the overall quality of
the pieces at the SS and the AH is the garment, or changing to design
clear-cut style to have less panels

• Two major changes that need to be taken into consideration when moving
forward with this style:
(1) Instead of using self fabric around the hem, use ribbing. The issue that
occurred during sample making was the fabric band stretched out and was
noticeable while on the hanger
(2) At the cuff where the reflective tape was placed, it limited the circumference
of the hem so it made it difficult if someone has larger hands to fit through,
so a recommendation for change is to add a snap so the cuff can open and
close
51
F-17-741
• Simple and straightforward top to • Costing $50 CAD retail is
assemble and would work really reasonable for a high tech shirt
well in a mass production and would sell easily within the
• It only is comprised of three pieces target market category
and only required assembly of the • Since there is only three pieces
SS and shoulder seams with a and not much to go along with the
serger and a cover seam along the assembly process and the
neckline, AH, and hem aftercare that goes along with it

• Not necessary moving forward in production, however, it may benefit the
product slightly and may be worth it to try:
(1) Moving the brand label lower down on the surplice cut back, since the top
is meant to be reversible, the label shouldn’t be right along the center back
because then it would be visible if worn “backwards”, instead, placing it
lower down on the left hand side (where all of the labels are placed
consistently through the collection)
52
F-17-151
• In order to make this piece to the • Pants in the athleisure market
best quality possible, the upper generally range just under $100
part of the pants should be retail value, and these pants go for
assembled normally first, and then $135 CAD, so the cost needs to be
attach the lower leg parts, as it lowered. Possibly by using
worked well during the sample different notions may lower the
assembly process. It helps with cost a little bit. The main aspect
distributing the gathers along the that raises the cost of the pants is
knee line and the ribbing cuff at the the type of fabric that is used in the
ankle pants, as well as the labour costs
for gathering the knee line. Overall
these pants maybe lowered to
$100 CAD in order to break into
the market, but no more

• Two changes that should be taken into consideration when it comes to working
on this garment:
(1) Adding more gathers along the knee line (therefore adding more fabric in
the lower panel) because it gives more volume of fabric for movement
within the pants (helps with not riding up the wearer’s leg)
(2) Changing where the lower leg panel starts. It was too low on the sample
piece, and was measured and needs to be moved up exactly 1.75” in order
to hit just about the knee, which maximizes the volume for movement and
stretching of the wearer

53
F-17-2.222
• While stitching the reflective tape • The jacket retails for $250 CAD,
into place, topstitch it down to and in order to lower production
make sure it does not stick out costs, the design aspects would
• With the sleeve, it the reflective have to change. Since there is so
tape has to be folded in half and many seams and pieces, it raises
then topstitched first, then sew the the prices, especially in mass
seams together. Doing this allows production
both sides of the undersleeve to
have topstitching holding

• Two major changes in the jacket:
(1) Using a single layer of neoprene instead of a double layer because it
became too heavy when it was assembled. Hopefully, using a thinner
neoprene will also reduce bulk in the seams
(2) Changing the type of reflective tape because it was a woven material, so it
puckered within seams and there were issues when it was placed on a
curved seam. Instead using a fuse on reflective patch would work better
with moving within the garment and the seams.
54
F-17-6.243
• The assembly for this top is quite • Retail for this top was $70 CAD,
straightforward and easy to because of the amount of pieces
produce both sample and in mass that needed to be cut, and the
production labour involved with the gathers
along the back. Overall for the
style of top, it fits the price range
that it needs to be in and will work
in a mass production environment
really well

• One major change that is recommended if moving forward with this top for
mass production:
(1) Along the back armhole about 0.5” needs to be cut out because it sticks out
too much. Starting at the shoulder seam and blending in to 0.5” to where
the AH notch it, and then blend back out to zero at the SS will cut out the
excess fabric and keep the tank top closer to the body
55
F-17-452
• These pants are to assembled like • These pants are an acceptable
any other pants with a drawstring cost for the athleisure pants since
and elastic waistband. The last they are a woven rayon pant that is
part of assembly is to attach the soft against the skin, and it retails
reflective tape around the hem and for $120 CAD
then blind stitch the reflective tape • Unfortunately breaking into a
into the place competitive market, the cost has to
be lowered slightly because it
wouldn’t sell many at that price.
Lowering it to about $80, it will sell
so many more pieces rather than
leaving it at the original price

• Only one change that is recommended for this design:
(1) Making the pockets deeper for larger items like cell phones to fully fit inside
the pocket without being seen, other than that, the pants turned out really
well and have no further need for changes
56
F-17-832
• The steps to assemble the • This sweater retails for $145
sweater are straightforward. The CAD, which is a little steep for a
only piece that was different was sweater, considering the market is
making sure that the reflective tape meant to be a part of. If the change
on the cuff of the sleeve was below is made, then it slightly cuts
topstitched down the 3” in length back on costs, and in mass
into the sleeve seam allowance production, will add up to a lot of
cutback.

• Overall the design for this sweater worked out really well. There are no
required changes however, one change can be made it improve efficiency for
labour and cut down on cutting and fabric costs:
(1) Instead of having a seam down the CB of the sweater, make it all one piece
and it will require cutting less pieces and assembling them together
57
F-17-713
• This dress was quite simple to • Using two types of materials for
assemble, the mesh paneling was the entire garment, which
laid over the white nylon and essentially means double the
basted into place. Then the bodice material. Retailing at $160 CAD is
of the dress was put together reasonable, but it would probably
similar to F-17-741. sell more units if the price was
• Two skirts are made, one out of $140 CAD. Since it is a higher tech
mesh and one out of nylon and garment, the cost is justifiable.
they are sewn separately, and then • Being made in mass production
then attached at the waistband may cut down costs as the market
can be lined up better with more
units being produced

• There are no changes recommended for this garment aside from possibly
lengthening the mesh overlay panel on the skirt
58
• Putting together is simple, and • This design is feasible for both
very similar to the other jackets. sample and mass production,
The only difference for sewing however the cost needs to be
technique is the type of material lower than the $200 CAD it
that is being used, the two other currently is retailing for. Since it’s a
jackets were made of a thicker thin jacket, technically not a piece
neoprene, whereas this is a thin of outerwear so in order for it to
rayon sell and actually make a profit, the
• Constantly needs to be pressed cost needs to drop considerably
and steam prior, during, and after
production for the best shaped of
the garment

• There was a major issue in the final sample created where it was too tight
around the bust. The princess seams that go along the CF are too tight, and it
pulls along the chest when the jacket is snapped closed. That was the only
issue that needs to be fixed when moving on in production
59
Conclusion
The designer will create a line of clothing under the chAOs brand providing
Generation Ys with a new option for creative, functional and current styles of athleisure
wear well-constructed with a mixture of soft and rigid fabric to mimic the kinetic motion
of a breaker wave under the Flux label. Overall, the collection was successful by
showing the inspiration of waves and motion and creating a line that was highly
technical. The one aspect that Flux by chAOs needs to cosider is while moving into a
highly competitive market, the prices of the garments need to be lowered in order to
make it in the athleisure industry.
60
Appendix A-Industry Expert/ Specialist Contact
Information
#1 #2
Sara Puppi Amanda To
Poor Little Rich Girl Nordstrom
Owner of the Company Logistics Processor
2094 Yonge Street, Toronto 3401 Dufferin Street, Unit 500, Toronto
Work (416) 322-7574 Cell (647) 968-9201
info@plrg.ca amandato300@gmail.com
*Special notes: Email is preferred (as the

opening of Yorkdale is coming up, she
may not be able to talk on phone)
#3 #4
Megan Arana Shannon Oehlschlager
Canadian College of Massage and Arc’teryx
Hydrotherapy Product Developer
Massage Therapist Student 2220 Dollarton Hwy #110, North
225-250 Davisville Avenue, Toronto Vancouver, BC
Cell (416) 804-4402 Cell: (604) 818-3446
marana9004@gmail.com shanon.oehlschlager@arcteryx.com
*Special notes: Leave voicemail and she

will return call as soon as possible
#5 #6
Madison Graydon Jennifer Hope
Sport Chek Nordstrom
Full Time Softgoods Associate Department Manager of Active and Swim
CF Toronto Eaton Centre, 218 Yonge CF Toronto Eaton Centre, 260 Yonge
Street Street
Work: (416) 598-3785 Work (416) 552-2900
maddygraydon@hotmail.com jennifer.hope@nordstrom.com
*Special notes: Does not work on

Thursdays and Sundays.
#7 #8
Charlene Chiang Gloria Asamoah
Previously Lululemon (currently Shoe Me) Pink
Previously Buyer Brand and Operations Manager
1818 Cornwall Avenue, Vancouver, BC CF Toronto Eaton Centre, 220 Yonge St
charlenec@shoes.com #2101c
Work: (416) 597-8736
61
References
Bucuta, A. (2015). A review of the specific characteristics of the generation Y consumer.
Paper presented at the 38-47. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.lib.ryerson.ca/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/17512
19695?accountid=13631
G. Fowler, J., H. Reisenwitz, T., & R. Fowler, A. (2014). Fashion globally. Qualitative
Market Res: An International Journal, 17(3), 172-191.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/qmr-04-2013-0022
Krahn, H. & Galambos, N. (2013). Work values and beliefs of ‘Generation X’ and
‘Generation Y’. Journal Of Youth Studies, 17(1), 92-112.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/13676261.2013.815701
WGSN. (2015). Active Colour Analysis (pp. 2-9). WGSN. Retrieved from
https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/62773/page/1
WGSN. (2015). All Day Active Report (pp. 2-7). WGSN. Retrieved from
WGSN. (2016). Athleisure Style Tribes (pp. 2-7). WGSN. Retrieved from
WGSN. (2015). Key Items Active Women (pp. 2-17). WGSN. Retrieved from
WGSN. (2013). Yogawear Textiles. WGSN. Retrieved from
62
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63
F-17-451
Self Contrast
23
F-17-132
Self Contrast
24
F-17-741
Self
26
F-17-151
Self Contrast
27
F-17-2.222
Self Contrast Trim

28
F-17-112
Self Contrast Trim

20

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Design Philosophy and Collection Inspiration..................................................................4

Summary Sheet and Fabric Swatches.............................................................................6

Collection: Research and Development...........................................................................8

Technicals with Fabric Swatches...................................................................................20

Cost Sheets with Fabric Swatches.................................................................................34

nada, where the inspiration was taken from,

whites and pops of blue throughout.

out, and is different than what is already offered.

Fabric No. Garment Type Details

place in a garment it will be referenced there.

the collection's market competition and as well as the required successful

(Active Colour Analysis, 2015, 3).

In order for this collection to be victorious in an already competitive industry, Flux

1. People watching can show what is current but it is important to be able to

garment to be worn for longer than the current season.

2. Textiles need to be tested to ensure the proper technology is chosen for a

3. In conjunction with observation and testing, publication reviews such as reading

information and outline upcoming style direction. WGSN, in particular, provides a

Active Women, 2015, 2-18).

4. Lastly, in order to understand the needs of the target market, industry

professionals will be interviewed to get a unique perspective to capture the interest of

professionals provide insight on their particular markets, customers’ lifestyle needs,

source of information is a student massage therapist who has studied ligaments,

perspiration, movement and thermal regulation is provided for consideration. As this is

an athleisure line meant to focus on the comfortability of the consumer, someone

specializing in the health professional field is an excellent source to draw upon.

secondary research includes publication reviews.

Specific Tasks and Timeline

silhouettes of garments cut to minimize confinement and circulation restriction. As well,

(Hope, personal communication, September 21, 2016).

of employment, or any female who is willing to invest in an exceptional garment will

(To, personal communication, September 17, 2016).

or avoided based on the needs and wants of Generation Y. Currently a younger

not luxury wear nor is it quick and cheap fast fashion.

usefulness (Oehlschlager, personal communication, September 18, 2016). For

more likely to be a favorable selling feature as it can be added to an existing wardrobe

personal communication, September 17, 2016). In order to alleviate the

panels will enable consumers to cool down quicker.

Visual Competitive Analysis

Statisical Competitive Analysis

Tanks Tees Shorts Leggings Pants Hoodies Jackets

Designer Characteristics and Quality of Garments

Design Implications of the Competitive Analysis

to the market of the Generation Y.

offered. The Flux line look will have a timeless appeal.

designer can focus on quality control to resolve unexpected issues.

awareness and popularity of Flux.

Self Contrast Trim

Self Contrast Trim

Description Width Price per yardage Cost

Wave Length1.88 yds 5.99 1.167 $ 6.99

Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Labour Fabric Swatches

Labour-sewing/cutting Self Fusing Contrast Lining Others

Source Source Source Source Source

Description Width Price per yardage Cost

Neoprene 1.62 14.99 1.31 $ 19.64

Labels N/A 0.13 1 $ 0.13

Labour Fabric Swatches

Labour-sewing/cutting Self Fusing Contrast Lining Others

Source Source Source Source Source

Description Width Price per yardage Cost