Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Riga
October - November 2018

Latvia 100
Concerts, festivals, fireworks
and fun facts to mark the
nation’s centenary

inyourpocket.com
N°135 - FREE COPY DOWNLOAD
OUR FREE
APP

iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword 4
Gossip and rants from the editor
Arriving in Riga & Getting Around 6
How to get to your hotel
Riga Basics 12
Getting to grips with Riga
Craft Brew Crawl 14
A tour of Riga’s best brew pubs and ale houses
Culture & Events 16
Concerts, festivals and events
Restaurants 26
From pork knuckle and sauerkraut to sushi
Nightlife 40
Bars, pubs and clubs
Sightseeing 52
Museums, churches and attractions
Shopping 60
Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres
Sports & Leisure 62
Bowling, paintball, saunas and swimming pools
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Contents
Useful Addresses 64
Spas, doctors, dry cleaners and more
Hotels 66
Beds for backpackers and business executives
Liepāja 70
A hip, bohemian city on the Baltic Sea
List of small features
Explore Latvia 9
Latvia 100: 100 facts for 100 years 9 - 66
Historical timeline 11
Latvian cuisine 36
Latvian spirits 44
Independence Day 54
Staro Riga Light Festival 55
20th-century Portraits 56
Hiking in Ķemeri 58
Baltic Oaks 59
What to buy in Latvia 61
Hockey: Dynamo Riga 62
Riga for kids 63
Learn Latvian! 67
Grobiņa day trip 73
Old Riga walking tour 94
Maps & Index
Liepāja map 77
Old Riga map 79
Riga city centre map 80
Venue index / Old Riga street register 82
Latvia map 83
The Central Market and
Old Riga from above
October - November 2018 3
 Foreword
After a hot and dry, once-in-a-lifetime summer that began
in early May and only ended in mid-September, we can
honestly say, without a hint of sarcasm, that we’ve had
our fill of sunshine and are now looking forward to a new
season of brisk autumn walks in Riga’s parks and gardens.
But strolls in the fresh fall air won’t be our only source of
optimism in the coming months when temperatures drop
and the days turn dark all too fast. We began our count-
down to the 100th anniversary of Latvia’s independence
at the end of last year with 100 fun facts about Latvia for
each of its 100 years as a sovereign nation. The final 16 facts
are spread throughout this special issue, where you’ll also
find loads of information about centennial events, concerts
and celebrations. Naturally, you’ll also find a wealth of other
events as well as independent reviews about restaurants,
bars and essential sights. However, if you have the time, the
best way to honour Latvia on its 100th anniversary would
be to explore its charming countryside to get a true picture
of this ancient land. Discover pristine nature trails on a hike
in Ķemeri (see p.58), medieval as well as tsarist architecture
in Liepāja (see p.70), past glory at the Viking settlement of
Grobiņa (see p.73) or many other towns (see p.9) that em-
bellish Latvia’s rolling hills and meandering coastline.
Mārtiņš Zaprauskis moved from the
mean streets of suburban New Jersey
to Riga in 1998 and soon after began
writing about the city’s best bars, res-
taurants and clubs as editor of Riga
In Your Pocket. He enjoys playing
football, drinking craft brews, read-
ing history books and exploring Latvia and the wider world in
general. If you’d like to contact him with any questions or com-
ments, drop him a line at martins@inyourpocket.lv.
From small acorns...
In 1992 a small team published the first
In Your Pocket guide to Vilnius in Lithuania.
25 years on In Your Pocket now covers
over 100 cities throughout the world
in print, online and on mobile reaching
over 10 million readers annually.
PRINT
If you’d like to join our group of independent local
publishers we’d love to hear from you. Drop us a line at
joinus@inyourpocket.com
4 Riga In Your Pocket
COVER STORY
This issue’s cover photo was taken
high atop St. Peter’s iconic spire.
Open every day except Mon-
days, the observation platform
of this reconstructed 13th-cen-
tury church has afforded Riga’s
residents and visitors spectacular
views of the city since it was first
opened in 1970. Riga Cathedral
and Riga Castle can be seen here as well as the River
Daugava, among other historical landmarks.
PUBLISHER & STAFF
Publisher
©SIA Latvijas ceļveži, Lāčplēša 43/45-15, LV-1011, Riga, Latvia
Tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80, riga@inyourpocket.lv, inyourpocket.com
Riga In Your Pocket is printed by SIA DuGa; ISSN 1407-2335
Editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis
Sales & Office Manager Ģirts Upenieks, tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80,
girts@inyourpocket.lv
Layout & Design Mārtiņš Zaprauskis
Cover photo Mārtiņš Zaprauskis
Photography Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted.
Events and culture photos courtesy of various media groups
and concert organisers.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright SIA “Latvijas ceļveži”. Maps copyright
SIA “Karšu izdevniecība Jāņa sēta”. All rights reserved. No part of
this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission
from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In
Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Ber-
nardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
ONLINE
MOBILE
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Arriving in Riga
Arriving in Riga is fairly simple these days. The bus and train
stations are located right on the edge of Old Riga and the
airport is only a short cab or bus ride away.
BY BUS
The first thing you’ll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal
or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00; from 24:00 - 05:00 there is
a €1 admission fee) are the impressive hangars of the Cen-
tral Market to your right. Inside, LuxExpress and Ecolines
offices are located to your left as well as an ATM, baggage
room (€0.60 - 1.40 for the first hour, €0.30 each additional
hour) and toilets for €0.30 (ask for paper). To your right is
the waiting room. A bar/cafeteria and a baby-changing
station are available upstairs. At the far end of the hall are
bus (open 08:00 - 21:00) and tourist information centres
(open 10:00 - 18:00), a currency exchange and a pharmacy.
Outside you’ll find a ticket machine where you can buy
public transport tickets. Getting to town: trams N°7 or
9 stop in front of the bus station; ride it one stop into the
centre (buy a €1.15 from the Narvesen newsstand outside
or a €2 ticket from the driver on old trams or from a ticket
machine on new trams). To get there on foot, turn left,
walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘Vecrīga-
Vaļņu iela’ into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously
dodgy, so if you’d like to travel farther afield then either
order a taxi by phone (see p.11) or use public transport.
QJ-3, Prāgas 1, www.autoosta.lv.
BY CAR
Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations
and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land
borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the
border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require
time and patience. Happy trails! Q
BY FERRY
The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km
north of Old Riga. A bank machine and café (09:00 - 18:30)
are available as well as a Tallink ferry line ticket office and
a souvenir/alcohol shop. Getting to town: go right across
the parking lot in the direction of the ugly grey skyscraper.
Old Riga is just beyond it. Taxis are also available. QB-2,
Eksporta 3a.
Take a stroll along the River Daugava M.Zaprauskis
6 Riga In Your Pocket
TOURIST INFORMATION
LIVE RIGA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
The Live Riga information centre offers a wide range
of information in a variety of languages. The friendly
staff can assist with hotel bookings, tours and other
useful services. QI-2, Rātslaukums 6, tel. (+371) 67
03 79 00, info@rigatic.lv, www.liveriga.com. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Also at H-2, Kaļķu 16, tel. (+371) 67
22 74 44; J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), (+371) 67 22
05 55. A
BY PLANE
The airport (lidosta) is some 10km southwest of Riga’s
city centre. Once you’ve got your bags and you’ve cleared
customs you can rent a car, change money, have a drink
at Costa Coffee or visit the airport welcome centre in the
arrivals hall for information. An ATM and a post office
(open 08:30 - 13:00; 14:00 - 17:00; closed Sat, Sun) are also
available. If you’ve departed from a non-Schengen coun-
try such as Ireland, the UK, the US or Uzbekistan, you will
arrive in a different terminal at the north end of the airport
building. Car rental and currency exchange are available
here, but you might want to leave the terminal, make a
right and then enter the Schengen arrival hall as it offers
more services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis
will be waiting for you outside the arrivals hall. A typical
ride to Old Riga or the city centre should cost no more
than €15. Bus N°22 (get off at Grēcinieku iela for Old Riga
or at Stockmann for the city centre) costs €1.15 (€2 if you
buy a ticket from the driver) and departs for the city centre
roughly every 10 - 20 minutes between 05:45 and 24:00.
Express mini-bus N°322 costs the same, but doesn’t stop
as often and will take you as far as the Central Station from
06:30 - 21:30. Exit the airport arrivals hall and walk across
the parking lot to find the bus stop and ticket machine.
You can also buy tickets at the Welcome to Riga airport
information centre in the arrivals hall or at airport news-
stands like Narvesen. QAirport, www.riga-airport.com.
BY TRAIN
The train station (centrālā stacija) has a spacious central
hall and many shopping and eating options. International
trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Cen-
tral Hall (Centrālā zāle) where you’ll find renovated pay toi-
lets (€0.30). A baggage room (€0.71 - 2.13/day; open 04:30
- 24:00) is available in the basement. Exchange money at
the currency exchanges (valūtas maiņas) in tunnels A and
B, at the Citadele bank to the right of the Central Hall when
coming from the platforms, or at the Swedbank to the left.
There are several bank machines in the terminal. The train
information office is open 08:00 - 20:00. Getting to town:
you are right beside Old Riga. Turn left when leaving the
station and head toward the spire of St. Peter’s Church,
then walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘13.
janvāra iela’ and turn right onto Aspazijas bulvāris. QD-4,
Stacijas laukums.
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Getting Around
Looking for cheap flights in Europe? Need to know how
much a tram or trolleybus costs? Want to know what time
a bus leaves for Tallinn or where to catch an overnight train
to St. Petersburg? Read on.
AIRPORT
RIGA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (LIDOSTA)
Riga International Airport, known throughout the world
as RIX, lies some 10km southwest of the city. A cab ride
to the airport will cost you anywhere between €12 - 15,
but you can also get there in roughly 30 minutes (depend-
ing on traffic) with bus N°22, which operates between
05:45 and 23:10. The most convenient stop in Old Riga is
at Grēcinieku iela. You can buy a ticket from the machine
at the stop for €1.15 or purchase a ticket from the driver for
€2. For departure times visit www.rigassatiksme.lv.
The airport has undergone major improvements over
the years and seems to always be expanding to accommo-
date more passengers. A TGIFriday’s is available at the far
right of the airport and a LIDO Latvian restaurant is open on
the top floor of the main terminal for those who want a last
sip of a local beer or who just can’t stand airplane food. A
sushi restaurant, sports bar and lots of local cafés are avail-
able on the other side of the security checkpoint as well as
a variety of duty free and paid shops, including Victoria’s Se-
cret and Furla. For more information visit its comprehensive
website.Qtel. 1817 (toll call)/(+371) 29 31 18 17 (toll call
from abroad), www.riga-airport.com.
AIRLINES
AIRBALTIC
The Latvian national airline flies to dozens of destinations
throughout Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia.QA-
irport, tel. (+371) 90 00 11 00 (toll call)/(+371) 67 00 60
06 (from abroad), www.airbaltic.lv. Open 05:00 - 23:00.
BELAVIA
Direct flights to Minsk.Qwww.belavia.by.
FINNAIR
Direct flights to Helsinki.QAirport, tel. (+371) 67 21 12 77,
www.finnair.com.
LOT (POLISH AIRLINES)
Direct flights to Warsaw.Qtel. (+371) 67 20 71 13, www.
lot.com.
LUFTHANSA
Direct flights to Frankfurt.Qtel. (+371) 67 85 21 99, www.
lufthansa.com.
NORWEGIAN
Norway’s low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo,
Bergen and Trondheim as well as Stockholm and Copen-
hagen.Qwww.norwegian.no.
RYANAIR
Ryanair offers cheap direct flights between Riga and Bar-
celona (Girona), Berlin, Bremen, Brussels, Burgas (Bulgaria),
Cologne, Dublin, East Midlands (UK), Frankfurt (Hahn),
Glasgow, Leeds (Bradford), London (Stansted), Malta, Man-
chester, Milan (Bergamo) and Paphos (Cyprus).Qwww.
ryanair.com.

*chargeable call
(+371) 29 311 817 calls from foreign countries,

AIRPORT INQUIRIES SERVICE

8 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com

SAS SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES
Direct flights to Stockholm and Copenhagen.Qtel. (+371)
67 85 21 91, www.flysas.com.
TURKISH AIRLINES
Direct flights to Istanbul.Qtel. (+371) 67 21 00 94, www.
turkishairlines.com.
UKRAINE INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES
Direct flights to Kyiv.Qtel. (+371) 28 62 07 01, www.
flyUIA.com.
UTAIR
Direct flights to Moscow (Vnukovo).Qwww.utair.ru.
UZBEKISTAN AIRWAYS
Direct flights to Tashkent.QB‑3, Elizabetes 11, tel. (+371)
67 32 45 63, www.uzairways.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WIZZ AIR
Flights to and from Barcelona (El Prat), Bari, Bergen, Don-
caster Shefield, Dortmund, Eilat (Ovda), Eindhoven, Kutaisi
(Georgia), Liverpool, London (Luton), Oslo (Torp), Reykjavik
and Tel Aviv.Qwww.wizzair.com.
CAR RENTAL
AUTO
Only €30 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also
be hired if you don’t feel like sitting at the wheel. It also
offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited mileage and free de-
livery to any Riga address.QReformācijas laukums 1, tel.
(+371) 29 58 04 48, www.carsrent.lv. Open 24hrs.
CARGURU
A car sharing service that lets you rent cars that are parked
around the city. Find the closest car on its website, follow
the instructions and you’re off. Prices depend on duration,
kilometers driven and other factors, but petrol is included.
See website for details.QKungu 8, tel. (+371) 27 33 27 33,
www.carguru.lv. Open 24hrs. A
FERRIES
RIGA PASSENGER TERMINAL
If you’re travelling to Riga with Tallink from Stockholm then
you’ll arrive here.QB‑3, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371) 67 32 62
00, www.rigapt.lv.
TALLINK
Tallink provides regular ferry service between Riga and
Stockholm every other day.QB‑2, Eksporta 3a, tel. (+371)
67 09 97 00, www.tallink.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Also
at D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A).
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
LATVIA FACT #85
Between 1900 and 1914 Riga’s
population doubled from 250,000
residents to 500,000. This was
largely due to industrialisation and
the abolition of serfdom in the 19th century.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Getting Around
EXPLORE LATVIA
Latvia boasts dozens of ancient Crusader castles,
nearly 500km of untouched beaches, scores of manor
houses that have been converted into hotels and spas,
charming medieval towns and pristine nature reserves
that are just begging to be explored. Although many
of these attractions can be reached by public trans-
port, if you’d like to see more than one in a day, we
recommend you contact our English-speaking friend
Jānis (janisosis@inbox.lv or (+371) 29 58 04 48) who
will drive you anywhere you want to go in Latvia (or
the Baltics) for an affordable fee.
Cēsis: located a little farther
down the same railway line, the
charming town of Cēsis is con-
sidered to be the most Latvian
city in the whole country and it’s
also the birthplace of the Latvian
flag, one of Europe’s oldest. Its
main attraction is its enormous Crusader castle, but
the town itself and its 12th-century church are also
picturesque and worth a visit.
Kuldīga: a former Hanseatic
city and one-time capital of the
Grand Duchy of Courland, this
picturesque town is one of the
best preserved medieval cities
in Latvia. Although its imposing
castle was completely destroyed,
its 17th-century wooden buildings with terracotta
tile roofs are its main attraction as well as its historic
churches, cobblestone streets and the widest water-
fall in Europe, which can be viewed from one of the
longest brick bridges on the continent.
Rundāle Palace & Bauska:
only an hour bus ride south
of Riga you’ll find the town of
Bauska whose main claim to
fame is its giant castle situated
at the confluence of the Mūsa
and Mēmele rivers. It’s also a
good place from which to explore nearby Rundāle
Palace, the most impressive 18th-century baroque
treasure in the Baltics. Find more information about
both destinations at www.iyp.me/71789f
Sigulda & Turaida: only an
hour train ride from Riga’s central
station you’ll find this historic
gem perched atop a valley over-
looking the meandering River
Gauja. Explore two castle ruins,
one renovated castle, a 19th-
century manor house and the largest sandstone cave
in the Baltics. Adrenalin junkies can also bungee jump
from a cable car or take a run on the legendary bob-
sleigh track. More at www.inyourpocket.com/sigulda
October - November 2018 9
 Getting Around
BUS SCHEDULE LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
BUS STATION (AUTOOSTA)
From RIGA To RIGA The bus is quicker and cheaper than a train journey but
Dep. Arr. CITY Dep. Arr. they often fill up quickly, especially during the summer.
23:30 06:10 KALININGRAD** 21:30 06:00 Ticket counters 1 - 9 sell tickets to all local destinations.
For buses to destinations abroad visit Ecolines or LuxEx-
12:30 16:40 KAUNAS** 05:45 11:45 press, which have offices on the ground floor. The bus
18:00 23:40 KAUNAS** 15:05 18:50 station’s information centre is open from 08:00 - 21:00.
22:25 07:20 MINSK** 22:30 07:20 QJ‑3, Prāgas 1, tel. (+371) 90 00 00 09, www.autoosta.
lv. Open 05:00 - 24:00.
19:15 08:45 MOSCOW** 20:45 10:15
ECOLINES
09:00 11:35 PÄRNU* 08:50 11:25 As its name suggests, this company has been providing
18:30 21:05 PÄRNU* 17:50 20:25 affordable bus service to hundreds of cities in 18 European
08:00 10:30 PÄRNU** 09:50 12:25 countries since 1993. You can purchase a ticket at its ser-
vice centre in the Riga Bus Terminal or save some time and
14:15 16:50 PÄRNU** 19:05 21:45 receive a substantial discount by ordering a ticket online at
08:55 19:15 ST. PETERSBURG* 11:55 22:20 www.ecolines.net. Most buses offer free coffee or tea on-
22:45 09:10 ST. PETERSBURG* 21:40 07:45 board as well as electrical sockets for recharging devices
and free wi-fi.QJ‑3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. (+371) 67
09:00 20:00 ST. PETERSBURG** 10:00 21:45 21 45 12, www.ecolines.net. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A­W
17:00 05:30 ST. PETERSBURG** 20:30 07:00 LUX EXPRESS
21:00 07:00 ST. PETERSBURG** 22:30 10:35 Try its luxury express buses to Tallinn and Vilnius that in-
clude free wi-fi, coffee and tea, a toilet and onboard enter-
22:00 08:00 ST. PETERSBURG** 22:40 08:50
tainment screens at each seat (bring earbuds if you want
09:00 13:25 TALLINN* 07:00 11:25 to listen to music or watch a film). It also operates routes to
12:30 16:55 TALLINN* 08:30 12:55 other cities in the Baltics, Poland and Russia.QJ‑3, Prāgas
16:00 20:25 TALLINN* 12:45 17:10 1 (Bus Station), tel. (+371) 67 78 13 50, www.luxexpress.
eu/en. Open 06:40 - 20:00. A­W
18:30 22:55 TALLINN* 16:00 20:25
02:30 06:50 TALLINN** 06:30 10:35
08:00 12:15 TALLINN** 08:00 12:25
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Riga has 8 tram lines, 17 trol-
09:00 13:35 TALLINN** 09:30 13:55
leybus routes and 56 bus routes
12:00 16:30 TALLINN** 13:00 17:40 that operate from as early as
14:15 18:40 TALLINN** 17:00 21:45 05:00 to as late as 01:00, de-
17:00 21:20 TALLINN** 19:00 23:15 pending on the route. You can
buy €1.15 tickets at designated
19:00 23:45 TALLINN** 22:00 02:20 Riga Transport (Rīgas Satiksme) ticket offices, at public
08:55 12:50 TARTU* 07:20 11:15 transport ticket machines or at Narvesen newsstands, post
19:00 22:55 TARTU** 03:10 07:00 offices and Rimi supermarkets. You can also buy a ticket
from the driver (on old trams) but it will cost you €2. New
22:00 01:35 TARTU** 06:30 10:30 trams offer ticket machines on board. Passengers have
07:00 11:00 VILNIUS* 08:00 12:25 a wide variety of ticket options including tickets for one
10:35 15:00 VILNIUS* 12:30 16:45 (€1.15), two (€2.30), four (€4.60), five (€5.75), 10 (€10.90)
and 20 (€20.70) rides or tickets good for one (€5), three
12:30 16:45 VILNIUS* 16:10 20:20
(€10) or five (€15) days of travel.
02:30 06:30 VILNIUS** 03:20 07:20 The tickets are valid for trams, trolleybuses and city
07:30 11:30 VILNIUS** 07:30 11:45 buses. Press the ticket against the electronic ticket readers
11:00 15:05 VILNIUS** 09:30 13:55 on the bus or tram as soon as you board the vehicle. The
green light will flash and the display will show you how
14:15 18:40 VILNIUS** 14:45 18:45 many more rides are left on the card (e.g. Atlikums: 9).
18:00 22:05 VILNIUS** 18:00 21:55 You can also take a mikriņš, passenger vans that list
22:25 02:25 VILNIUS** 22:00 02:20 their destinations and route numbers on their windscreens.
Pay the driver the fare, which varies depending on the
* Lux Express ** ECOLINES route. Read more about routes and exact departure times
Local buses depart frequently to cities throughout in English on the Riga Transport Authority’s website www.
Latvia (www.autoosta.lv). Schedule subject to change. rigassatiksme.lv. QJ‑3, Prāgas 1, tel. (+371) 80 00 19 19.
Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
10 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com

TAXIS
All licenced cabs have special yellow number plates. Insist
on the meter being turned on. For shorter journeys around
the centre of town try not to pay more than €6, but to avoid
being swindled order a taxi by phone or app. Unfortunately,
any taxi can now make pick-ups at the airport, including
the dodgy ones, but you shouldn’t pay more than €15 for a
ride to the centre. The companies listed below are reputable.
RED CAB (RĪGAS TAKSOMETRU PARKS)
These reliable red and white cabs are at your door within
minutes of ordering one. Also available at the airport.
QValdemāra 51, tel. (+371) 8383, www.redcab.lv. Open
24hrs. A
TAXIFY
Not unlike Uber, this ride sharing app let’s you order and
track cabs via an app. Download it and you’ll be on your
way in no time. Taxify  is also usually  cheaper than taxis,
depending on demand.QKuģu 26, tel. (+371) 27 27 06
34, www.taxify.eu/cities/riga. A
TOURS & TRAVEL
AREA TOURS
A jolly, English-speaking Latvian man will drive you any-
where in Latvia, Lithuania or Estonia with a car or van for
as long as you like. Make your own itinerary and drive!
Available day or night. Recommended.QReformācijas
laukums 1, tel. (+371) 29 58 04 48, www.carsrent.lv.
TRAINS
CENTRAL STATION (CENTRĀLĀ STACIJA)
Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in
the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance,
counters N°1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold
at counters N°1 to 6. Do not confuse perons (the platform)
and ceļš (the track). They are numbered separately in Lat-
via and can be quite confusing. Pietur means stops and
nepietur means doesn’t stop, so if you see a train schedule
with a list of towns and cities in the margin, it is best to
check whether the train stops there or not.QD‑4, Staci-
jas laukums, tel. (+371) 67 23 21 35, www.pv.lv. Open
05:00 - 24:00.
Train bridge across the river M.Zaprauskis
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Getting Around
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
In 2,500BC Indo-European tribes arrive on the Baltic Sea
coast. In Latvia the inhabitants split into several tribes:
Zemgaļi, Sēļi, Latgaļi and Kurši. The Livonians, a Finno-
Ugric group, are equally ancient settlers.
12th century German traders arrive with Christianity.
A holy war against the Baltic pagans is launched with
help from a papal bull from the Vatican.
1201 Bishop Albert founds Riga by building a castle.
1211 The foundations of the Dome cathedral are laid.
1290 The last stand by Latvian tribes is crushed.
1522 German preachers bring the Reformation to Latvia.
1600-1629 In the Polish-Swedish War, Sweden wins
northern Latvia, while the provinces of Kurzeme and
Zemgale are united into a duchy loyal to the Polish-
Lithuanian empire.
1700-1721 Sweden and Russia fight for control of Livonia.
1795 The Russians occupy Latgale and control the en-
tire country until WWI.
1802 Poverty leads to a failed peasant rebellion.
1817 & 1819 Serfdom is abolished in Latvia, but farms
remain in the hands of German and Russian owners.
1873 The first all-Latvian song festival is held in Riga.
1905 On January 24, a general strike is called and
50,000 workers protest in the streets. 80 people are
killed in clashes with Tsarist troops and a further 2,000
are killed by Russian ‘punishment brigades’.
1915 During WWI Russia allows independent Latvian
units to defend the country.
1918 Latvian nationalists declare Latvia’s independ-
ence at the National Theatre on November 18.
1921 Russia vows to respect Latvia’s independence,
which is also recognised by the international commu-
nity on January 26.
1934 President Kārlis Ulmanis stages a bloodless coup
in May and effectively becomes a dictator for six years.
1940 The USSR invades Latvia on June 17. The Soviets
hold sham elections to legitimise the takeover. On the
night of June 13 - 14, 1941, they force tens of thou-
sands into cattle cars and deport them to Siberia.
1941 The Germans take Riga when invading the USSR
in early July. The Nazis murder 90% of Latvia’s Jewish
population in their three year occupation.
1944 The Red Army retakes most of Latvia in July and
September. Thousands of Latvians flee.
1949 On March 25, 42,000 people are sent to Siberia.
The Stalinist regime begins a russification campaign
1989 On August 23 some 2 million Latvians, Lithuani-
ans and Estonians join hands in a human chain stretch-
ing from Tallinn to Vilnius in the 650km-long Baltic Way.
1990 On May 4 the Supreme Council adopts a declara-
tion restoring independence with a transitional period.
1991 On August 21 the Moscow coup collapses and
the Latvian parliament votes to restore independence.
On September 6 the USSR recognises independent Latvia.
2004 Latvia joins NATO and the European Union.
The train bridge over the icy River Daugava M.Zaprauskis
October - November 2018 11
 Riga Basics
ALCOHOL
Latvia once had the dubious honour of holding the re-
cord for the world’s drunkest person. In 2012, a vagrant
was found unconscious by police and rushed to hospital
where his blood test revealed an astounding 8.89 parts per
mille of alcohol. Although we don’t suggest you attempt
to break any records, we do hope you enjoy a local drink
in moderation while in Riga. Užavas and Valmiermuižas
are among the nation’s best beers, but keep your eye out
for great craft brews by Labietis, Malduguns and Viedi. The
infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent spirit that Latvians
enjoy inflicting on tourists. Bars are open at all hours, but
alcohol is only sold in shops from 08:00 - 22:00. You must
be at least 18 to buy alcohol.
The Riga Canal reflects autumn’s splendour M.Zaprauskis
COMMUNISM
Although Latvia was once an involuntary Soviet republic,
visitors shouldn’t come to Riga with hopes of seeing statues
of Lenin and other objects from that bygone era. Most of
these monuments, which are viewed as symbols of oppres-
sion by Latvians, have been removed. A red granite monu-
ment, once dedicated to the Latvian riflemen who protected
Lenin after the Revolution of 1917, still exists on Strēlnieku
laukums, but now honours all of the riflemen - Whites and
Reds. Another monument, dedicated to the Soviet ‘liberation’
of Riga, is located on the other side of the Daugava. Ham-
mers and sickles can also be seen on the wrought iron fence
on A-B dambis near the Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel.
MONEY
As of January 1, 2014, the Latvian national currency is the
euro. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are 1, 2, 5,
10, 20 and 50 euro cent coins as well as 1 and 2 euro coins.
Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20,
50, 100, 200 and 500. There are currency exchange booths
and ATMs everywhere. Most hotels, restaurants and shops
take credit and bank cards and we’ve marked the establish-
ments that accept them.
LATVIA FACT #86
Iceland was the first nation in the
world to recognise the restoration
of independence of the Republic of
Latvia on August 22, 1991.
12 Riga In Your Pocket
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
Nearly 800 years of foreign occupation haven’t given Latvians
much cause to celebrate, hence an acute lack of days off for
the working man. Pagan Midsummer celebrations are the
nation’s most popular holidays when locals head out to the
countryside for bonfires, beer and assorted fertility rites.
January 1 New Year’s Day (Jaungads)
April 19, 2019 Good Friday (Lielā piektdiena)
April 21, 2019 Easter Sunday (Lieldienas)
April 22, 2019 Easter Monday (Otrās Lieldienas)
May 1 Labour Day (Strādnieku diena)
May 4 Independence day in 1990
June 23 - 24 Midsummer celebrations
(Līgo & Jāņi)
November 18 & 19 Independence day in 1918
Dec 24 - 26 Christmas (Ziemassvētki)
Dec 31 New Year’s Eve (Vecgada vakars)
POST
LATVIAN POSTAL SERVICE (LATVIJAS PASTS)
Send postcards, letters and packages, buy stamps and
public transport tickets or do what most locals do here
(hence the queues) and pay your utility bills. Take a num-
ber and have a seat.QH-3, Brīvības bulv. 32, tel. (+371) 67
50 28 15/(+371) 67 00 80 01, www.pasts.lv. Open 07:30 -
19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at D-4, Stacijas
laukums 2, tel. (+371) 67 07 39 00. Open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
ROADS
Latvia has some of the world’s worst drivers. It’s not that
they can’t steer or press the break pedal, although for
some reason Latvians can’t master the art of parallel park-
ing, it’s more likely a reckless streak that allows grown men
and women to act like children behind the wheel. Passing
on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ig-
nored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend
to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out
Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating
an automobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind
that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory
ten-day jail sentence and a huge fine. The speed limit is
50km/h in towns, 90km/h on the open road and it is strictly
enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are not rec-
ommended.
SCAMS
Some strip clubs, nightclubs and late night bars take ad-
vantage of inebriated patrons. Be wary of attractive girls on
Līvu Square asking you to join them for a drink in a nearby
bar. You’ll be shocked to discover that the barely palatable
bottle of wine you bought them costs €700 or more. If you
refuse the bouncers will pummel you until you give them
your PIN code. Avoid seedy bars and try to always pay in
cash at nightclubs.
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Craft Brew Crawl
When in a foreign land we always try to wet our whistle
with a local brew, but since we’re card carrying beer snobs
this isn’t always an easy task. If you’re of a similar mind then
here are a few tips on where to get a good Latvian brew.
OLD RIGA
When in the old town head over to 1 Folkklubs Ala
Pagrabs, which may be hard to pronounce, but serves
roughly 20 Latvian beers including delicious offerings by
the Malduguns brewery like Sānslīde – a kind of dark IPA.
Just around the corner, 2 Paddy Whelan’s has a stag-
gering number of beers from around the globe as well as
quite a few Latvian brews on draught. Not far, down a hard-
to-find street in a medieval warehouse festooned with fire-
arms you’ll find the 3 Armoury Bar that specialises in
craft brews from around the globe. Try the hoppy Cilpa pale
ale by Malduguns on draught. A few blocks away in Old
Riga you’ll find the 4 Aussie Pub, which has a special
14-beer sampler that will give you a crash course in Latvian
beer.
11
12
7
5 whole operation behind a glass wall
2 4
1 3
14 Riga In Your Pocket
CITY CENTRE
Outside of the brick walls of the old town, the hipster fa-
vourite 5 Č (formerly Chomsky) offers a great variety of
Latvian craft beers in bottles as well as an eclectic selec-
tion of German brews including wheat beers and pilsners.
Only a few blocks away at the cosy local pub 6 A l u s
Muiža you’ll find one of the biggest selections of Latvian
craft beers in the city like the Indie Jānis Old School IPA.
For pale ales, IPAs, saisons, pilsners and seasonal offerings
made on the premises try 7 Alķīmiķis (The Alchemist).
A few blocks farther is 8 Ziemeļu Enkurs, which
offers a clandestine location in a disused industrial build-
ing and a variety of tasty beers made on the premises with
names like Mermaid, Icebreaker and Propeller. You can also
order four small tasters for only €3.
However, the main destination for all beer snobs in
Riga has to be the Valdemāra Pasāža (off of Kr.Valdemāra
iela), which is home to 9 the Labietis craft brew-
ery in the courtyard and the 10 embassy of the
Valmiermuiža brewery on the opposite side. Labietis
is constantly experimenting with new
recipes that use unusual ingredients
10 such as local herbs and spices. Try the
9
Three Indians IPA, the stronger Virsaitis
IPA or the potent Tapeworm Killer. The
Valmiermuiža brewery has been pro-
ducing quality beer for years now and
isn’t quite a craft brewer, but they do
pour their latest creations at this ‘em-
bassy’. Try a hearty porter on a cold
winter day or its classic golden lager.
If you’d like to buy some interest-
ing brews for the road then we recom-
mend 11 Alus Celle, where you can
8
also enjoy a brew on the premises. In
the swanky art nouveau district try
12 Būņas which stocks Malduguns,
Labietis and other local craft beers.
BREW TOURS
If you’re not content just sipping a
local brew in a bar, but would like to
6 see how it’s made, then we have a
few suggestions. In Riga you can visit
the Labietis (Aristīda Briāna 9A-2,
labietis.lv) craft brewery and see the
while you sip a brew or take a tram to
the Aldaris Beer Museum (Tvaika
44, beermuseum.lv) for some history
followed by beers in its tasting room.
A one hour and 45 minute drive
northwest of the capital you’ll find the
Valmiermuiža brewery (Dzirnavu
2, Valmiera; valmiermuiza.lv), one
of the best beer experiences in the
country (reservations required).
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
Perhaps the best aspect of Riga’s cultural life is that world-class
performances are very affordable. Locals hold the opera and MUSIC & EVENTS
theatre in the highest esteem and make it a point to attend
often. Buy tickets to events online at riga.inyourpocket.com. Oct
Date Time Event Venue
CINEMAS Walking with Dinosaurs.
Based on the award-
FORUM CINEMAS 1 - 3 19:00 AR
winning BBC TV series.
Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex in €22 - 65
Northern Europe. QI‑3, 13. janvāra 8, tel. (+371) 1189,
www.forumcinemas.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - Jack White. Boarding
24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A House Reach Tour. A no-
3 20:00 PR
SPLENDID PALACE phone concert by the rock
This cinema offers an ornate old world interior.QC‑4, Eliza- icon. Sold out
betes 61, tel. (+371) 67 18 11 43, www.splendidpalace.lv. Humanoita (Finland).
5 21:00 Progressive / shoegaze DP
music
CLUBS & OTHER VENUES 6, 13, 10:00 Kalnciems Fair. Weekly
9. VILNIS (9TH WAVE) 20, - Saturday crafts and farm- KQ
A large club that often hosts popular Latvian bands.QI‑2, 27 16:00 ers' market
Kungu 8, tel. (+371) 24 55 88 98. Open Fri, Sat 20:00 -
Riga Flea Market. Vintage
03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. A­E 11:00
clothing, antiques,
BIĶERNIEKU TRACK (BIĶERNIEKU TRASE) 6 - SK
jewellery and other knick-
The best place in Riga to see car and motorcycle races.QS. 16:00
knacks; www.spikeri.lv
Eizenšteina 16, tel. (+371) 67 02 58 00, www.bksb.lv.
DEPO Football: Riga FC vs.
6 15:00 SS
A venue for indie, industrial and experimental groups.QI‑2, Metta/LU
Vaļņu 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo.lv. LNK Fight Night. MMA,
FOLK CLUB ALA 6 19:00 boxing and kick boxing AR
Local folk music concerts most days of the week.QI‑2, fights. €10 - 120
Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv. A Triana Park. Latvian pop/
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS 10 20:00 RIS
rock. €15
ETNOGRĀFISKAIS BRĪVDABAS MUZEJS)
This outdoor museum hosts a number of ethnographic Violet Tree (South Korea).
10 21:00 DP
events. Take bus N°1 from the corner of Merķeļa and K-Pop music
Tērbatas to the Brīvdabas muzejs stop.QBrīvības gatve Scarlet Aura (Romania).
11 21:00 DP
440, tel. (+371) 67 99 45 15, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Melodic metal music
Open 10:00 - 17:00. L­K Sound Forest 2018 featur-
ing Tristan Murail, Caterina
Barbieri, Thurston Moore
12 20:00 DMH
(Sonic Youth) and Mats
Gustafsson and Busdriver;
skanumezs.lv. €10 - 15
Sound Forest 2018 featur-
ing Linda Leimane, William
13 20:00 Basinski, RED Trio and Mat DMH
Maneri, Grouper, RP Boo
and Regis. €11 - 23
Football: Latvia vs.
13 19:00 Kazahstan. UEFA Nations DS
League; lff.lv. €5 - 15
Tears of Fire (Iran). Oriental
14 21:00 DP
funeral doom
Football: Latvia vs. Geor-
16 21:45 gia. UEFA Nations League; DS
Jack White will perform at Palladium Riga on October 3. Photo
lff.lv. €5 - 15
courtesy of ww.fbi.lv

16 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com

 Culture & Events
Riga A Cappella Festival.
17 19:00 VOCES8 (UK); rigasacap- GG
pellafestivals.lv. €16 - 28
Mac Demarco. The Cana-
17 20:00 PR
dian singer-sonwriter. €40
18 - Riga International Film
SP
31 Festival; rigaiff.lv
Heretic's Dream (Italy).
18 21:00 DP
Prog rock music
Riga A Cappella Festival.
19 20:00 Barbershop Night; rigas- SG
Canadian rockers Three Days Grace will promote their new album at
acappellafestivals.lv. Free
Palladium Riga on October 30. Photo courtesy of fb.com/ltipsagency
Latvian Blues Band. Lat-
19 20:00 ALA
via's best blues act. Free
Nov
Football: Riga FC vs.
20 13:00 SS Barren Womb (Norway)
Jelgava
1 21:00 and Goatburner (Finland). DP
Riga A Cappella Festival.
Noise rock music
Gentlemen Singers (Czech
20 18:00 RC Genghis Khan (Mongolia).
Republic); www.rigasacap- 2 21:00 DP
pellafestivals.lv. €10 - 24 Heavy metal music
The Sound Poets. Latvian 3, 10, 10:00 Kalnciems Fair. Weekly
20 20:00 AR 17, - Saturday crafts and farm- KQ
pop/rock. €10 - 45
24 16:00 ers' market
Latvian Blues Band. Lat-
20 22:00 MS Winterfest. Toninho Horta
via's best blues act 3 19:00 GG
(Brazil). Guitar jazz. €10 - 50
Riga A Cappella Festival.
21 18:00 Kamēr... (LV); rigasacappel- SPC Cossacks of Russia dance
4 18:00 GG
lafestivals.lv. €10 - 16 performance. €7 - 35
Queen Rhapsody with Swan Lake performed by
23 20:00 Natalia Posnova and Sym- AR 5 19:00 the St. Petersburg Festival DT
phonica ARTica. €19 - 59 Ballet. €25 - 80
Sulfurdust (Finland), The Peter Bence (Hungary).
25 21:00 Sunburst (Italy) and Hangar- DP 6 19:00 Piano arrangements of RCC
vain (Italy). Hard rock popular hits. €24 - 46
KOK World GP 2018. Rusu Jungle (UK). Modern soul
27 19:00 AR 8 20:00 PR
vs. Zaur. €12 - 50 music. €29 - 35
Bleach Nirvana Tribute Lāčplēsis (Bearslayer) rock
27 21:00 9V 8 20:00 AR
Band. €15 - 32 opera. Sold out
Vivaldianno. City of Mir- The Latvian Centenary.
rors. The best of Antonio Latvia's most popular
28 19:00 AR 9 20:00 AR
Vivaldi with a hint of rock. songs by its best musicians,
€30 - 70 singers and actors. €5 - 69
Football: Riga FC vs. 10:00 ZooExpo 2018. Dog and
28 15:00 SS 10 -
Ventspils - cat show; bt1.lv/zooexpo. KH
11
18:00 €3.50 - 6
Three Days Grace. The
Canadian rockers are Football: Riga FC vs. Spar-
30 20:00 PR 10 14:00 SS
promoting their new taks Jūrmala
album. €39 Lāčplēsis Day Midnight
Concert by Skyforger.
10 24:00 Latvian folk metal with VEF
Find more events at: light and video installa-
tions. Free
www.inyourpocket.com/riga/events

18 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com

 Lāčplēsis Day. Latvia
honours its armed forces
11 RCA
by lighting candles at Riga
Castle after dark
Traditional Martin’s Day
festivities. Mask making,
singing, dancing, games
11 EM
and folk groups or some
roast rooster at the tavern;
www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv
Staro Rīga Light Festival.
17:00 The city's buildings are
16 -
- illuminated in creative
19
23:00 ways every evening; www.
staroriga.lv
Ieva Akuratere and Juris
Kulakovs at 60. Popular
16 18:00 Latvian songs as well VEF
as hits from their group
Pērkons. €12 - 25
Come Together, Dance
17 17:00 Together. Latvian folk VEF
dancing concert. €5
Abas Malas (Both Sides)
rehearsal. A massive Latvi-
an dance concert with 450
17 18:00 AR
of the nation's best ballet,
folk and modern dancers;
abasmalas.lv. €11 - 28
Antonio Vivaldi. The Divine
and Earthly. The St. Pe-
17 20:00 GG
tersburg State Symphony
Orchestra. €30 - 50

VENUES
11 - 11.novembra Krastmala 9V - 9. vilnis
ALA - Folk Club ALA AR - Arena Riga
BT - Biķernieku Track DP - Depo Nightclub
DMH - Daile Music House DS - Daugava Stadium
DT - Daile Theatre
DZH - Dzintari Concert Hall (Jūrmala)
EM - Ethnographic Museum GG - Great Guild
KH - Ķīpsala Hall KQ - Kalnciems Quarter
LNL - National Library LR1 - Latvian Radio 1
MP - Melnā Piektdiena MS - Moonshine
OP - Opera PR - Palladium Riga
RAD - Radisson Blu Latvija
RBM - Riga Bourse Museum RCA - Riga Castle
RCC - Riga Congress Centre RIS - RisebaH20
SG - Small Guild SK - Spīķeri
SJC - St. Peter’s Church SS - Skonto Stadium
VEF - VEF Culture Palace
 Culture & Events
LATVIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY
The Latvian National Library hosts a number of concerts Latvian Independence Day
and exhibitions.QE‑3, Mūkusalas 3, tel. (+371) 67 36 52 with a military parade,
50, www.lnb.lv. 18 11
speeches, concerts and
MELNĀ PIEKTDIENA (BLACK FRIDAY) fireworks
The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music. Take
tram N°1 from Barona to the VEF stop.QBrīvības 193c, tel. Abas Malas (Both Sides).
(+371) 29 73 12 62, www.melnapiektdiena.lv. A massive Latvian dance
MOONSHINE 18 - concert with 450 of the
18:00 AR
Blues and rockabilly club.QH/I‑2, Kaļķu 12, tel. (+371) 26 19 nation's best ballet, folk
65 63 68, www.moonshineriga.lv. Open 11:00 - 04:00. and modern dancers;
abasmalas.lv. €16 - 38
20.10
CONCERT HALLS -
Arena New Music Festival
2018; www.arenafest.lv
ARENA RIGA 04.11
A venue for both sporting events like the Kontinental GBH (UK). The legendary
Hockey League and large concerts. QA‑4, Skanstes 21, 21 21:00 DP
punk rock band live
tel. (+371) 67 38 82 00, www.arenariga.com.
New Age (Australia). Punk
DAILE MUSIC HOUSE (MŪZIKAS NAMS DAILE) 22 21:00 DP
rock
A former cinema is now a venue for Latvian concerts.QC‑4,
Barona 31, tel. (+371) 29 29 96 96, www.dailesnams.lv. Daddy Was a Milkman
DAUGAVA STADIUM (DAUGAVAS STADIONS) 22 20:00 (Lithuania). Electronic / AR
The Daugava Stadium hosts sporting events such as foot- dance music. €18 - 28
ball.QC‑6, Augšiela 1, tel. (+371) 67 84 48 00, www. 10:00 Opening day of the Līvu
daugavasstadions.lv. 23 - Square Christmas Market LS
DZINTARI CONCERT HALL 20:00 (open until January 6)
Jūrmala’s largest events venue offers both an indoor and 23 - Riga Fashion Week; www.
an outdoor concert hall.QTuraidas 1, Jūrmala, tel. (+371) RAD
27 rfw.lv
67 76 20 92, www.dzintarukoncertzale.lv.
GREAT GUILD (LIELĀ ĢILDE) 23 20:00 MØ (Denmark). Pop music. €29 PR
Home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra.QH‑2, Solstafir (Iceland). Viking
23 20:00 MP
Amatu 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv. metal music. €20 - 25
ĶĪPSALA HALL BaltiCon. Baltic Board
A large venue for trade fairs and concerts.QC‑2, Ķīpsalas 24 -
10:00 Game Festival; balticon. LNL
8, tel. (+371) 67 06 50 00, www.bt1.lv. 25
info. €5 - 10
LATVIAN RADIO STUDIO 1 (RADIO 1. STUDIJA)
Latvian Radio’s recording studio.QH‑1, Doma laukums 8, Lords of the Sound Or-
tel. (+371) 67 20 66 87. 24 19:00 chestra. Music is Coming; RCC
PALLADIUM RĪGA www.gastroli.top. €22 - 44
A former cinema has been converted into a concert hall. Gipsy Kings with founder
26 19:30 AR
QC‑4/5, Marijas 21 (entrance from Pērses), tel. (+371) 67 Nicolas Reyes. €30 - 80
28 45 16, www.palladium.lv. Music in the Dark: Christ-
mas Mystery. Jevgenia
27 19:00 GG
Zima and the St. Peters-
burg Virtuosi. €15 - 60
Basketball: Latvia vs.
29 19:30 Montenegro. FIBA World AR
Cup qualifier. €3 - 50
Motörizer (Lithuania).
29 21:00 DP
Motörhead tribute band
Riga's Rhythms. Phronesis
30 19:00 LR1
(UK). Jazz music. €25
Opening of the Old Riga
Christmas Market on
30
Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums); www.vzt.lv
Danish singer-songwriter MØ will perform at Palladium Riga on
November 23. Photo courtesy of FBI - www.fbi.lv

20 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com

 Culture & Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC Aija Ziņģīte (organ), Aija
Oct Veismane (soprano) and
12 19:00 Ivars Bezprozvanovs RC
Date Time Event Venue (cello). J.S.Bach, A.Vivaldi
Organ concert. Jacinta and F.Handel. €10 - 20
Ciganoviča (organ) and Autumn Chamber Music
3 19:00 Natālija Saveļjeva (flute). RC Festival. Reinis Zariņš
Works by A.Kalniņš, 13 19:00 DZH
(piano). Beethoven’s piano
A.Grīnups et al. €10 - 20 sonatas. €7 - 15
Organ duet. Ilze Reine Latvia - Organ Land. A
and Aigars Reinis (organ). marathon of organ music
5 19:00 RC
Works by A. Kalniņš, G. 14 18:00 to raise money for the or- RC
Pelēcis et al. €10 - 20 gan at Liepāja's St. Anne's
Daniil Bulayev. The child Church. Donations
6 19:00 OP
prodigy violinist. €7 - 40 Autumn Chamber Music
Ksenija Sidorova (accor- Festival. G. Sarkisjan (violin),
6 19:00 GG
dion). €10 - 40 17 19:00 G. Šnē (cello) and A. Egliņa SG
Organ concert. Andres (piano). Mozart, Men-
10 19:00 Uibo (organ / Estonia). RC delssohn and Vasks. €15
€10 - 20 Dutch composer and
Symphonic Hits with pianist Michiel Borstlap.
17 19:00 VEF
Goran Gora. Men- Expect both jazz and clas-
10 19:00 GG sical compositions. €19
delssohn’s Italian
Symphony Organ concert. Jeļena
Autumn Chamber Music Privalova-Epšteina (organ).
17 19:00 RC
Festival. Sinfonietta Riga Programme: J.S.Bach.
11 19:00 performs Haydn's Oxford GG €10 - 20
Symphony and Britten's Autumn Chamber Music
Double Concerto. €10 - 25 Festival. A Conversation
Tenor Trio. Arrivederci 18 20:00 with Bach. Ieva Saliete RBM
12 18:30 Roma. From opera music OP (harpsichord) and Matīss
to jazz. €14 - 20 Čudars (guitar). €15
Autumn Chamber Music Organ concert. Larisa Bulava
Festival. Kristīne Blaumane 19 19:00 (organ) and Ilona Meija RC
(cello) and Katya Apeki- (flute). J. S. Bach. €10 - 20
12 19:00 SG
sheva (piano). An Evening Autumn Chamber Music
of Sonatas. Beethoven, Festival. Artemis Quartet
20 19:00 DZH
Debussy and Chopin. €15 (Germany). Haydn, Bartók
and Brahms. €10 - 20
Music Without Borders.
20 18:00 Gentlemen Singers (Czech RC
Republic). €10 - 20
A Song for My Native
Land. Andris Ludvigs
24 19:00 (tenor) and Lilita Ozola RC
(organ). A. Kalniņš, J Vītols
and R. Jermaks. €10 - 20
Sinfonietta Riga orchestra
and Matthew Barley (cello
/ UK). Programme: Heinz
25 19:00 VEF
Karl Gruber's Concerto
for Cello and Chamber
Canto Fiorito (pictured here) and Musica Antiqua Salzburg will per-
form at the Small Guild on November 25 as part of the 18th Annual Orchestras. €12 - 25
Bach Chamber Music Festival. Photo courtesy of music.lv/bachfestival

22 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com


Marks Viļenskis (cello),
Savva Zihs (accordion) and
26 19:00 Andris Veinbergs (bass) SK
perform works by Astor
Piazzolla. €15
Organ music in honour
of Latvia's centenary. Vita
Kalnciema (organ) and the
26 19:00 Riga Saxophone Quartet. RC
Programme: A.Kalniņš,
L.Garūta, P.Vasks, G.Pelēcis
and A.Kalējs. €10 - 20
Come Prima - Altera
30 19:30 Shock. Chamber music VEF
concert. €9
Nov
LNSO. Masters and Master-
2 19:00 GG
pieces. Mozart. €15 - 30
Changeful France. Music
3 15:00 OP
by French composers. €10
Winterfest. Toninho Horta
3 19:00 (guitar / Brazil) and his GG
ensemble. €10 - 50
LNSO. Season opening
5 19:00 concert. Music by Vasks GG
and Bruckner. €35 - 60
The Royal Concertgebouw
Orchestra (Netherlands)
and the Symphonic
8 19:00 Orchestra of the Jāzeps OP
Vītols Latvian Academy of
Music. Weber, Beethoven
and Brahms. €30 -100
Sinfonietta Rīga. Beethov-
9 19:00 en’s 8th and Stravinsky’s GG
Dances. €10 - 20
18th International Bach
Chamber Music Festival.
European Union Baroque
13 19:00 SG
Orchestra. Works by Jean-
Marie Leclair, André Campra
and Georg Muffat. €7 - 15
LATVIA FACT #87
Latvia’s capital has always been a
melting pot, but it might surprise
you to know that a man of Scot-
tish descent, George Armitstead
(1847–1912), was mayor of Riga from 1901 until 1912.
He’s often credited with transforming Riga from a me-
dieval backwater to a European metropolis.
Culture & Events
Amandine Rouge and the European Union Baroque Orchestra will
perform at the 18th Annual Bach Chamber Music Festival on Novem-
ber 13. Photo by Oscar Vazquez courtesy of music.lv/bachfestival
Dedicated to Latvia.
LNSO. Works by Pelēcis,
13 19:00 GG
Gribinčika, Fridrihsons and
Ķeniņš. €7 - 25
Rise and Shine with the
18 10:00 LNSO. Vasks, Prokofiev and GG
Tchaikovsky. €3 - 7
Come Prima - Dark Night.
21 19:30 Trio Con Brio. Works by VEF
new Latvian composers.€9
Schubert... Plakidis.., In
24 15:00 OP
Memroiam. €10
Baltic Symphony Festival.
One Concert, Three Or-
chestras. Works by Kristaps
24 19:00 GG
Pētersons, M. Čiurlionis,
Michael Daugherty and
Erki Sven Tüür. €20 - 55
18th Bach Chamber Music
Festival. The Hanseatic
Way. Lithuania 100! Canto
Fiorito (Lithuania) and
25 19:00 Musica Antiqua Salzburg SG
(Austria). Programme: H.
Praetorius, Thomas Tallis,
Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck
et al. €5 - 10
I Solisti di Pavia (Italy) cham-
26 19:00 GG
ber orchestra. €10 - 50
Symphonic Hits with
29 19:00 Goran Gora. Mussorgsky’s GG
Pictures at an Exhibition
18th Bach Chamber Music
Festival. Anna Katrīna
30 19:00 Paukšēna (cello), Serafina RBM
Jaffé (harp) and Antons
Gračkovs (accordion)

facebook.com/rigainyourpocket October - November 2018 23

 Culture & Events
UPCOMING FILMS
Oct Dates indicate premieres
From All films at Forum Cinemas
Venom. Action / horror starring Tom
5 Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €3.50.
Hardy
A Star Is Born. Musical starring Bradley
5
Cooper and Lady Gaga
First Man. Biography starring Ryan
12
Gosling
Peppermint. Action / thriller starring
12
Jennifer Garner
Christopher Robin. Family film starring
19
Ewan McGregor
19 Smallfoot. Animation film
Father Night (Tēvs Nakts). Biography
25
about Žanis Lipke. English subtitles
26
Halloween. Horror starring Jamie Lee
Curtis
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNĪCA)
The destination for world-class organ concerts. Tickets can
be purchased here at the ticket counter.QH‑1, Doma lau-
kums 1, tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv.
RIGA CONGRESS CENTRE (KONGRESU NAMS)
A large venue for dance concerts, musicals, plays and of
course conferences.QF‑2, Valdemāra 5, tel. (+371) 67 04
36 78, www.kongresunams.lv.
SKONTO STADIUM (SKONTO STADIONS)
A venue for sports matches as well as large concerts. Aero-
smith, Metallica and Depeche Mode have all played here.
QB‑4, Melngaiļa 1a.
SMALL GUILD (MAZĀ ĢILDE)
Popular venue for small concerts and events.QH‑2, Ama-
tu 3/5, tel. (+371) 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza.
SPĪĶERI
The national chamber orchestra Sinfonietta Riga per-
forms at this chic renovated warehouse behind the Central
Market.QD/E‑4, Maskavas 4, korp. 2/3, tel. (+371) 67 21
50 18, www.sinfoniettariga.lv.
ST. JOHN’S CHURCH (JĀŅA BAZNĪCA)
This 13th-century church also hosts concerts now and
again.QI‑2, Skārņu 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28/(+371) 25
63 55 65, www.janabaznica.lv.
ST. PETER’S CHURCH (PĒTERBAZNĪCA)
Riga’s iconic St. Peter’s Church, which boasts the city’s tall-
est spire, also hosts concerts and exhibitions from time
to time.QI‑2, Skārņu 19, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 30, www.
peterbaznica.riga.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon.
VEF CULTURE PALACE (VEF KULTŪRAS PILS)
This massive Soviet-style cultural centre was completely
renovated in 2017 and now hosts events and concerts.
QRopažu 2, tel. (+371) 67 18 16 34, www.vefkp.lv.
24 Riga In Your Pocket
EXHIBITION SPACES
ARSENĀLS EXHIBITION HALL
This exhibition hall specialises in local and international con-
temporary art projectsQH‑1, Torņa 1, tel. (+371) 67 35 75
27, www.lnmm.lv. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00,
KIM?
This gallery displays works by contemporary and up-and-
coming local and international artists.QB‑4, Sporta 2, tel.
(+371) 29 60 09 16, www.kim.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Tue
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €3.
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ART & DESIGN
This museum regularly exhibits both local and interna-
tional contemporary art.QI‑2, Skārņu 10/20, tel. (+371)
67 22 78 33, www.lnmm.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: museum €2.50,
exhibitions €3.50, combined ticket €5.
FESTIVAL & MARKET
LOCATIONS
11.NOVEMBRA KRASTMALA
The road that separates Old Riga from the River Daugava
is occasionally closed for special events such as Midsum-
mer’s Eve, Independence Day, the annual Riga Festival in
August and New Year’s Eve.Q11.novembra krastmala.
CATHEDRAL SQUARE (DOMA LAUKUMS)
Cathedral Square or Doma laukums is located in the very
heart of Old Riga and is often the setting for concerts, mar-
kets and special events, not to mention al fresco cafés and
beer gardens in the summer months.QDoma laukums.
OPERA & THEATRES
DAILE THEATRE (DAILES TEĀTRIS)
Classic and contemporary Latvian theatre.QB‑4, Brīvības
75, tel. (+371) 67 27 04 63, www.dailesteatris.lv.
LATVIAN NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET (LATVI-
JAS NACIONĀLĀ OPERA UN BALETS)
A magnificent venue for opera, ballet and international
performing artists.QH‑3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. (+371) 67
07 37 77, www.opera.lv.
RISEBA ARCHITECTURE AND MEDIA CENTRE H2O 6
This industrial brick building hosts a variety of events.
QC‑1, Durbes 4, tel. (+371) 29 34 91 22, www.riseba.lv.
Eartheater (New York) will perform at Sound Forest 2018 on Octo-
ber 6. More festival events at www.skanumezs.lv
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
OPERA & BALLET
Oct Tickets: €5 - 60; opera.lv
Date Time Event Venue
Don Carlo, opera, Verdi.
Guest performance by the
3 19:00 OP
Lithuanian National Opera
and Ballet Theatre
Čiurlionis, ballet, Giedrius
Kuprevičius. Guest perfor-
4 19:00 mance by the Lithuanian OP
National Opera and Ballet
Theatre
La Piaf, ballet. Music by
Édith Piaf, Gabriel Fauré,
Maurice Ravel et al. Guest Don’t miss the Latvian National Opera & Ballet’s performance of
5 19:00 OP
performance by the Lithu- Puccini’s Turandot on October 11 and November 14. Photo cour-
anian National Opera and tesy of the Latvian National Opera & Ballet - www.opera.lv
Ballet Theatre
Antonija #Silmači, ballet,
10 19:00 OP The Three Musketeers,
Juris Karlsons 9 19:00 OP
ballet, Jan Kučera
11 19:00 Turandot, opera, Puccini OP
The Little Magic Flute. A
La Bayadère, ballet, 12:00 production for children
12 19:00 OP 10 OP
Minkus 15:00 with music by Mozart (in
The Little Magic Flute. A Latvian)
12:00 production for children The Rake's Progress, opera,
21 OPN 10 19:00 OP
15:00 with music by Mozart (in Igor Stravinsky
Latvian)
The Blue Danube, ballet
Premiere. The Three Mus- 12:00
26 19:00 OP 11 with music by Johann OP
keteers, ballet, Jan Kučera 18:00
Strauss
The Three Musketeers, 14 19:00 Turandot, opera, Puccini OP
27 19:00 OP
ballet, Jan Kučera
The Opera's 100th
Don Pasquale, opera, 16 19:00 Anniversary. Local and OP
28 19:00 OP
Donizetti international oepra stars
Tannhäuser, opera, The Opera's 100th
31 18:30 OP
Wagner 17 19:00 Anniversary. Local and OP
international opera stars
Nov Don Juan, ballet with mu-
21 19:00 OP
Romeo and Juliet, ballet, sic by Mozart and Chopin
1 19:00 OP 22 19:00 Carmen, opera, Bizet OP
Prokofiev
Antonija #Silmači, ballet, The Three Musketeers,
2 19:00 OP 23 19:00 OP
Juris Karlsons ballet, Jan Kučera
The Rose of Turaida, opera, The Flying Dutchman,
3 19:00 OP 24 19:00 OP
Zigmārs Liepiņš opera, Wagner
The Sound of Music. The 12:00 The Nutcracker, ballet,
25 OP
4 12:00 classic musical for young OPN 18:00 Tchaikovsky
and old (in Latvian) 28 19:00 Nabucco, opera, Verdi OP
Raymonda, ballet, Antonija #Silmači, ballet,
4 15:00 OP 29 19:00 OP
Glazunov Juris Karlsons
7 19:00 Faust, opera, Gounod OP Eugene Onegin, opera,
30 19:00 OP
Tchaikovsky

facebook.com/rigainyourpocket October - November 2018 25

 Restaurants
A thin-crust pizza, fresh sushi, hearty pork knuckle or an Ar-
menian shashlik are never far from your fingertips in Riga
and many cafés now offer cheap lunch specials to lure din-
ers into their establishments. A tip of 10% is expected at
most places. The average cost of a main course is listed in
parentheses.
ASIAN
NEW
KINKI
No, it’s not what you think. That’s an ‘i’ and not a ‘y’ at the
end of Kinki. In fact, Kinki is an elegant, some might say
stylish Asian restaurant providing modern ambient mood
music and an original décor whose main feature is a series
of white, gold and silver reliefs depicting life in a coy pond
complete with fish and lily pads. Even the cutlery and
glassware are unique. We tried the ramen soup with beef
short ribs and a stir fry with exotic vegetables and prawns
and were not disappointed. The delicious food is by no
means cheap, but an affordable lunch special is available
on weekdays.QC‑4, Blaumaņa 5a, tel. (+371) 28 63 55 55.
Open 12:00-21:00. (€7 - 15). A­W
WOK N KURRY
This cosy restaurant offers a pleasant brown and beige
interior that also includes large windows facing the
street and Asian paintings representing each of the
cuisines served here, namely Indian, Chinese and Thai.
Delicious curries, stir fries and grilled dishes are freshly
prepared each day by a team of Indian chefs who use
a variety of exotic spices that they brought with them
from their homeland. Expect a fusion of incredible fla-
vours at this Indian-run establishment that proves that
authentic Asian cuisine need not be expensive. A lunch
special including a vegetarian version is also available.
QC‑5, Kr. Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes), tel.
(+371) 67 49 68 18, www.woknkurry.lv. Open 11:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (€5 - 8).
A­S ­V ­W
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials app
26 Riga In Your Pocket
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
V Home delivery E Live music
J Old town location B Outside seating
X Smoking section S Takeaway
W Wi-fi
NEW
ZE SUKIN SAN
Although the Āgenskalns neighbourhood seems like an
unlikely location for an offbeat izakaya, we’re very happy
that it’s here. Ze Sukin San provides a steady stream of
1970s and 80s rock music and a décor that is decidedly un-
Japanese (think military memorabilia and Soviet-era knick-
knacks). Thankfully, the cuisine is as far away from a mess
hall as you can imagine and you can watch the chef pre-
pare ramen soups, stir fries, grilled yakitori, pad thai and
lots of other tasty Asian dishes in the open-plan kitchen.
Take a seat under the camouflage netting and order a local
brew while you wait for your order.QD‑1, Meža 4a. Open
11:00-23:00. (€5 - 12). A­­S­W
BAGELS
BIG BAD BAGELS
This charming little bagel bistro, which is already a hit with
the city’s American expat population, offers a number
of different bagels served with a wide variety of fillings.
Although we’re quite partial to the big breakfast sand-
wich bursting with fried eggs and bacon on a jalapeño
and cheese bagel, we also recommend the classic cream
cheese and lox and pretty much anything else that’s
listed on the menu. Order takeaway bagels and make
your own breakfast at home or have a seat with a coffee,
freshly squeezed juice or a smoothie.QC‑4, Baznīcas 8,
tel. (+371) 24 55 65 85, www.bigbadbagels.com. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also at D/E-4, Mas-
kavas 4. Open 09:00 - 19:00. (€4). A­­S­W
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
BAKERIES
CADETS DE GASCOGNE
Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Larane’s French
bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Riga, including
the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of
the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade croissants, macarons,
quiches, strong coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice
also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat.QG‑2, Z.A.
Meierovica bulv. 8, tel. (+371) 67 32 01 03, www.cadets.
lv. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Also at C-5, Barona 52 (entrance
from Ģertrūdes). A­

MĀRTIŅA BEĶEREJA
Martin’s Bakery offers a modern, beige environment to
enjoy classic Latvian pastries from freshly baked pīrāgi
(bacon dumplings) with a variety of different fillings like
ham, onions and mushrooms to delicious sweet pastries
from fragrant kanēļa maizītes (cinnamon buns) to gooey
kafijas maizītes (custard-cream buns). You can order any-
thing it offers to take away, including coffee.QI‑3, Vaļņu
28, tel. (+371) 67 21 33 14, www.bekereja.lv. Open 07:30
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. S

BARBECUE
CHARLESTONS
We’ve been big fans of this casual, yet elegant restaurant in
the city centre for years and if you drop by you’ll see why.
The main dining hall offers soft, dark colours and much
of the space is divided by stacks of alder firewood, which
is used to smoke many of its meat and fish dishes. In fact,
the delicious pork ribs and other Charleston delicacies are
smoked for 4 - 14 hours in a specially-designed smoke room
downstairs. Naturally, seafood and a variety of vegetarian
dishes are also available for the non-carnivores among us.
So if you like good beer, wine and cocktails and mouth-wa-
tering barbecued meals, then look no further than Charles-
tons, which also has a great weekend brunch (Sat, Sun 11:00
- 15:00) that’s fun for the whole family.QC‑4/5, Blaumaņa
38/40, tel. (+371) 67 77 05 73, www.charlestons.lv. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00
- 20:00. (€10 - 28). A­T­­S­W

BELGIAN
BON VIVANT
Solid wooden furniture, a cosy atmosphere and assorted
Benelux decorations aren’t the only things that make this
place an authentic Belgian restaurant. A whole page of
the menu is dedicated to steamed mussels, sausages are
ordered by the half metre and tasty brews from the Low
Countries are served in their proper glasses - a rarity in Riga.
Most of the delicious food and drink isn’t cheap, but Euro-
peans have come to expect that anything from Brussels will
cost them dearly. Thankfully, its breakfast menu is  afford-
able as well as its weekday lunch special.QI‑2, Mārstaļu 8,
tel. (+371) 67 22 65 85, www.bon-vivant.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (€12 - 21). A­­J­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket October - November 2018 27
 Restaurants
BURGER JOINTS
BURGER STUDIO
The only thing this hipsterish neighbourhood lacked was
a craft burger joint, until now. This minimalist grey space
with designer lighting fixtures and chairs is thoroughly
modern with the notable exception of the 19th-century
tiled fireplace in the corner. Beef, chicken and veggie burg-
ers seem to be truly ‘made with passion’ as they claim and
you can get a variety of sides as well as some extras like
chicken wings, which you can enjoy with a soda or a good
local draught beer. That’s pretty much it. Burger Studio
is simple, affordable and right in the city centre.QC‑5,
Ģertrūdes 41, tel. (+371) 25 72 47 12. Open 12:00-22:00.
(€5 - 7). A­S
LATE NIGHT MUNCHIES
This simple room on Old Riga’s most popular nightlife
street is simply decorated with a timber beam ceiling,
hardwood floors and walls plastered with Polaroid pho-
tos of friends, clients and colleagues. Grab a stool at one
of the counters and order pizzas, panini, chicken wings
or its most popular item – big, juicy burgers with a side
of fries. Beer and spirits are also available so you don’t
have to sacrifice any drinking time while taking a refuel-
ing break from one of the neighbouring bars and clubs.
QI‑2, Peldu 21, tel. (+371) 22 33 38 39. Open 11:00
- 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. S­V ­J
28 Riga In Your Pocket
LATVIA FACT #88
Born in Riga in 1943 to a Jewish
mother who had escaped the Riga
Ghetto, Mariss Jansons is consid-
ered to be one of the best conduc-
tors in the world having led some of the best orches-
tras in existence including the London Philharmonic
Orchestra, the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra and
Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra.
STREET BURGERS
Latvia’s largest chain of gourmet burger restaurants is in-
credibly popular and with good reason. Not only will you
find a stylish interior of vintage industrial lamps and medi-
eval beams, but also some of the best burgers you’ve ever
had. Choose your own bun (including gluten-free) and
then try to make up your mind whether or not to go with
Latvian beef, lamb, free-range chicken or veggie options
served with a variety of fries (even sweet potato). But it
doesn’t end there. You’re also confronted by dozens of or-
ganically brewed soft drinks and delicious smoothies and
shakes not to mention a raft of craft brews from around
the globe.QI‑3, Vecpilsētas 8a, tel. (+371) 27 77 22 33,
www.fb.com/streetburgersofficial. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Also at D-1, Meža 4a, tel. (+371) 26 61 13 11. Open 11:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. (€5 - 8). A­­S­V­J­W
riga.inyourpocket.com

COFFEE & CAKE
ART CAFÉ SIENNA
If the interior of this elegant café weren’t so cosy, you
might think you’ve stumbled into a room at the nearby
Art Nouveau Museum. The antique wallpaper, clocks, fur-
niture, chandeliers, bookcases and paintings as well as the
attentive, old-fashioned service make one feel as if they’ve
stepped back in time. Enjoy the most decadent desserts
available in Riga, including the rum-soaked Black Forest
torte, which are all made by the award-winning chefs at
Vincents – the most exclusive restaurant in Latvia. Order
a fancy pot of tea or a cappuccino and breathe in the so-
phisticated fin de siècle ambience or just admire the art
nouveau edifices on the opposite side of the street.QB‑3,
Strēlnieku 3, tel. (+371) 26 14 22 86, www.sienna.lv.
Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. T­­S
NEW
CHEZ OLIVIER CAFE
It’s worth visiting this Old Riga café just to step into one
of the Latvian capital’s most beautiful Art Nouveau build-
ings. Inside you’ll also find a classic black and white tile
floor, wood panelling on the walls and ceiling and huge
windows on both sides of this corner café. Enjoy cakes,
pastries and other desserts or a few sandwiches and sal-
ads with a cup of coffee or tea while listening to French
background music à la Piaf.QI‑2, Kalēju 23, tel. (+371) 26
96 95 66. Open 08:00-20:00. A­S­J­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Restaurants
GRAND POET CAFÉ
Located in the swanky five-star Grand Poet Hotel, this clas-
sic café combines the old world elegance of white marble
countertops and an original decorative tile fireplace with
brass fixtures and designer lamps. If you’re looking for a
refined place to have a latte or a cup of tea while enjoy-
ing amazing cakes, tortes and other desserts inspired by
famous composers, the Grand Poet is a great option. It also
offers beautiful views of the park across the street.QG‑2,
Raiņa 5/6, tel. (+371) 60 00 86 37, www.semarahhotels.
com. Open 10:00-20:00. A­P­G­W
STRADA
Riga’s ultra-hip coffee purveyors have some strong com-
petition in Strada. Not only does it offer excellent java
brewed in a variety of methods, it’s also the only place
in Riga to sell freshly brewed Kopi Luwak (the beans ‘ex-
creted’ by furry critters in Southeast Asia) for a whopping,
yet perhaps justified €14. Coffee beans acquired from Star-
buck’s are roasted on the premises, hence all of the green,
wavy-haired logos about the place, but you can also enjoy
an excellent selection of teas if you prefer getting your caf-
feine via other means. Despite its relatively small size and
cutting-edge interior of copper piping and geometric pat-
terns made of wood, Strada has still managed to find space
for a fun kids’ corner and a small summer terrace on one of
Old Riga’s prettiest streets. Delicious desserts are also on
offer.QI‑2, Jāņa 5, tel. (+371) 26 23 88 85. Open 12:00 -
21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A­S­J
October - November 2018 29
 Restaurants
CAFÉS
ASPARAGOOSE
If you crave something light and healthy and are willing
to visit a city centre street, which most tourists will never
see, then AsparaGoose won’t disappoint. Choose from a
number of freshly made sandwiches, salads and wraps
available in the refrigerators, not to mention one of doz-
ens of different fruit and vegetable smoothies, in a simple,
yet modern space with views of the street outside. Your
roasted chicken wrap with sun-dried tomato hummus and
soy beans (as well as everything else on the menu) can
also be ordered to take away. The exact number of calo-
ries, protein, grams of fat and carbs are listed on each meal.
QC‑5, E. Birznieka-Upīša 20A, tel. (+371) 25 71 59 72,
www.asparagoose.lv. Open 09:00-18:00, Closed Sat,
Sun. Also at Riga Airport. (€3 - 6). A­S­W
BAKEBERRY
Although your eyes will immediately be drawn to the glass
display case full of mouth-watering treats and sweets,
once you stop salivating you might also notice that this
café is not only rustically stylish, but that it’s also huge
with more space than most restaurants could handle.
Drop by for your morning coffee and a delicious pastry
or try a tasty made-to-order sandwich while relaxing on
the indoor swing.QI‑3, Audēju 11, tel. (+371) 67 13 06 67,
www.bakeberry.lv. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
21:00. A­­S­J­W
PAGALMS (COURTYARD)
Tennis anyone? Actually this stylish café has very little to
do with the sport apart from its unusual location overlook-
ing the clay courts behind the National Theatre. Were it
not for the dark wood and the white tiled walls one might
mistake this trendy eatery for a surf shack of sorts, but the
used boards stored up in the rafters may have influenced
our opinion. Although the refined main courses on the
small menu, such as tuna steaks and duck breasts, com-
mand elevated prices, the three-course lunch special is a
steal at only €7 and the breakfast and weekend brunch
are also quite affordable.QF‑1, Kronvalda bulvāris 2B,
tel. (+371) 25 64 20 30. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (€5 - 15). A­­W
ROCKET BEAN ROASTERY
In keeping with the global trends of bearded millennials,
this industrial-style café on Riga’s undisputed hipster Mec-
ca, Miera iela, specialises in exceptional coffee, craft brews
and a small menu of imaginative international cuisine. The
din of spirited conversation and an overburdened espres-
so machine creates a lively ambience that’s hard to beat,
especially at lunch when you can order an affordable two-
or three-course meal. Pour yourself a free glass of water at
the counter, order a slice of cake or do as the locals do and
fire up your laptop under funky lamps made of driftwood
and recycled beams.QA/B‑5, Miera 29/31, tel. (+371) 20
21 51 20, www.rocketbean.lv. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (€5 - 10). A­S­W
30 Riga In Your Pocket
CAFETERIAS
DELICIO
Not only does Delicio offer a big buffet of international and
Latvian favourites, but it also boasts a pasta station where
meals are cooked to order after you’ve chosen your own
ingredients. Beer, Proseco and wine are also available, not
to mention a cosy, yet stylish interior of raised levels and
comfy niches, which make you feel like you’re dining at a
proper restaurant, but for a fraction of the price. Breakfast
specials including a ‘create your own omelette’ are also on
offer in the morning.QF‑3, Dzirnavu 49, tel. (+371) 67 28
53 97/(+371) 67 28 06 66, www.delicio.lv. Open 10:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2 - 6). A­T­S
CENTRAL ASIAN
UZBEGIMS
This authentic Uzbek restaurant housed in one of the
city’s loveliest art nouveau landmarks includes all of the
usual Central Asian kitsch including ceramic plates, tra-
ditional instruments and figurines of bearded men with
watermelons, yet Uzbegims has a much more upmarket
feel with gilded dinnerware, expensive Persian rugs and
impeccable service by professional staff. The whole gamut
of Uzbek cuisine is on offer, but we chose the stuffed au-
bergines and assorted grilled meat skewers with delicious
homemade bread and spicy adjika sauce.QB‑4, Elizabe-
tes 10b, tel. (+371) 66 10 33 34, www.uzbegims.lv. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (€7 - 12). A­
CHEAP & QUICK
PELMEŅI XL
As the name suggests, it offers ‘extra large’ portions of
chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmeņi (Rus-
sian ravioli) for ‘extra small’ prices. Also available are two
kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals
do and wash it down with a beer or, if you haven’t had
enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka.
QI‑2, Kaļķu 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 27 28, www.xlpelmeni.
lv. Open 09:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. (€3). S
LATVIA FACT #89
Born in Riga in 1887, Edward
Leedskalnin (Edvards Liedskalniņš)
single-handedly built an enormous
castle made of giant slabs of coral
rock (some weighing up to 9 tonnes) in Florida from
1923 to 1951. The castle was dedicated to his sweet-
heart, who called off their wedding the day before the
planned nuptials. Now a museum and a popular tour-
ist destination in the sunshine state, it also served as
the inspiration for Billy Idol’s 1986 hit Sweet Sixteen. To
this day, no one is absolutely sure how he achieved this
amazing feat.
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
CHINESE
LIELAIS ĶĪNAS MŪRIS (GREAT WALL OF CHINA)
Because the food is just a few degrees shy of true Chinese,
despite its Chinese owners, imported Asian music videos
and the red lanterns help to create that Far Eastern feeling.
A good budget buffet is on until the evening on weekdays
with half and full servings available, which is no doubt why
it’s almost always packed at lunchtime.QF‑3, Valdemāra
21 (Valdemāra centrs), tel. (+371) 67 24 00 49, www.
lielaiskinasmuris.lv. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (€4 - 9). A­S
CZECH
SVEIKS, ŠVEIK! (HELLO ŠVEJK!)
Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav
Hašek’s classic character the Good Soldier Švejk that dot
the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere
of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls on two floors,
not to mention its most important feature – great beer.
Užavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught, cheap
Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and you can even or-
der a shot of ice cold Becherovka that tastes like ginger-
bread cookies in liquid form. Best of all, unlike the staff that
man the beer halls of Prague, the ladies here aren’t afraid
to smile when they take your order.QB‑5, Stabu 23, tel.
(+371) 67 31 46 74, www.svejk.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (€4 - 8). A­­E
GASTROPUBS
DUVEL’S GASTROPUB
Named after one of Europe’s tastiest ales, this vast gas-
tropub housed in the famous Cat House on one of Old
Riga’s most popular squares specialises, not surprisingly,
in a huge selection of Belgian and Dutch beers served on
draught and in bottles, as well as local brews. Everywhere
you look you’ll see dark wood reminiscent of a classic
grand café, not to mention rows and rows of beer bottles
covering every spare shelf and windowsill. Order barbe-
cue ribs or mussels by the kilo, burgers, steaks and even a
good choice of pizzas or try its affordable weekday lunch
special. In the summer it also boasts an extensive terrace.
QH‑2, Meistaru 10/12, tel. (+371) 67 22 54 36, www.
gastropubduvels.lv. Open 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-
01:00. (€8 - 20). A­­J­W
LATVIA FACT #90
Since officially regaining independ-
ence in 1991, Latvia, Lithuania and
Estonia have each had a president
who had lived in exile in North
America during the Soviet occupation of the Baltics
including Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga, Valdas Adamkus and
Toomas Hendrik Ilves, respectively.
32 Riga In Your Pocket
METROPOLE
Located on the ground floor of Riga’s oldest continuously
running hotel, Metropole offers old world charm with the
ambience of a Belgian grand café. You can begin your culi-
nary journey with beef carpaccio or perhaps a goat cheese
mousse and then move on to mains like baked sturgeon fil-
let and oven roasted or choose a number of other refined
dishes. The interior boasts dark wooden furnishings and a
19th-century black and white photo of some serious gentle-
men posing with drinks at the original De Commerce Hotel
behind the bar. Brews from Latvia and the Low Countries
are also on offer as well as a good wine selection.QI‑3,
Aspazijas bulvāris 36/38 (SemaraH Hotel Metropole),
tel. (+371) 66 01 03 33, www.semarahhotels.com. Open
07:00 - 23:00. (€10 - 20). A­P­­J­W
T73 GASTROBAR
This bright, open restaurant has decided to specialise in
our favourite meal of the day and unlike other trendy Riga
restaurants that only think to serve eggs and bacon at the
weekend, T73 offers a huge range of breakfast food from
pancakes with maple syrup and eggs Benedict to Spanish
omelettes and a full English fry-up, just to name a few. Best
of all, you can get your scramble and toast 24-hours a day
as well as burgers, seafood and so-called hangover soups.
A mix of modern industrial elements make this spacious
venue a relaxing option for a guilty dessert, an evening of
cocktails or a hearty meal in the wee hours of the morning.
QB‑5, Tērbatas 73, tel. (+371) 67 73 73 73, www.t73.lv.
Open 24hrs. (€5 - 15). A­L­W
INDIAN
INDIAN RAJA
All of the dishes served here are so veritably Indian, it’s
almost overwhelming. This is hardly Baltic-modified cui-
sine, which is why the bill won’t be small, but it will reflect
one of the best dining investments in the city. Although
many of them have Indo European roots, most locals still
shy away, which means you, expats and tourists, will have
the peaceful interior and its incredible views of St.Peter’s
Church and its medieval surroundings all to yourself.QI‑2,
Skārņu 7, tel. (+371) 67 22 32 40, www.indianraja.lv.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (€8 - 15). A­­S
INTERNATIONAL
INTERNATIONAL
This modern glass and steel space decorated with black and
white photos and maps of dozens of countries in relief cer-
tainly stands out in this neighbourhood. Choose from a large
selection of tasty, well-presented, yet small dishes from Japan,
Russia, France, Italy, Australia, Spain and others. Although not
exactly tapas, you’re given a small sample of Beef Wellington,
sturgeon fillet, crab tempura and many other delicious dishes,
so you can get to know more than one type of cuisine in one
sitting.QA‑5, Hospitāļu 1 (entrance from Ēveles), tel. (+371)
67 49 12 12, www.riga.international.lv. Open 12:00-22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. (€7 - 13). A­
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
instagram.com/inyourpocket
SOKRATS (SOCRATES)
Just look for the peach-coloured neo-Gothic building that
looks like a castle to find this hotel restaurant serving a
variety of international cuisine from upmarket versions of
simple dishes like fish and chips to mussels in curry coco-
nut milk sauce. You can peruse the quotes of famous phi-
losophers on the walls while you sip a pinot noir from their
extensive wine list. Breakfast is served 07:00 - 10:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 11:00.QB‑3, Elizabetes 21 (Monika Centrum Hotel),
tel. (+371) 67 03 19 00, www.centrumhotels.com. Open
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (€7 - 14). A­W
VAIRĀK SAULES
The sleek, yet warm and cosy interior of this restaurant
chain is cutting edge, the service is genuinely friendly
and the food is fantastic. You can choose from two sepa-
rate menus, one that specialises in Italian and interna-
tional cuisine like pizzas, homemade pastas, seafood and
even vegetarian dishes, and another that lists a variety of
Asian specialities from sushi and sashimi to tasty stir fries
and noodle dishes. A kids’ play area and children’s menu
are also available.QC‑4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. (+371) 67 28
28 78/(+371) 80 00 90 80, www.vairaksaules.lv. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€6
- 12). A­T ­S
34 Riga In Your Pocket
ITALIAN
NAPLES
Naples specialises in all manner of Italian cuisine includ-
ing antipasti, salads, pastas, pizzas and a some main
courses. In the winter you can sit inside this cosy space
decked out in designer wooden furniture and enjoy a
delicious meal and a fantastic view, but when the mer-
cury rises in summer this is one of the hottest venues to
enjoy a cocktail in the sun. Reservations are essential in
the evening and at the weekend, but bear in mind that
the staff know how popular they are, so service can be
haughty.QB‑2/3, Andrejostas 2k-2, tel. (+371) 25 77 55
40, www.naples.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (€5 - 12). A­­
S­L ­W ­C
PIAZZA ITALIANA
A beautifully restored medieval warehouse on a quiet,
cobblestone street not far from Cathedral Square (Doma
laukums), is the perfect location for an authentic Italian
restaurant serving refined Northern and Southern speci-
alities as well as classics like pizza and pasta. The antique
charm of centuries-old brick walls is seamlessly combined
with designer furnishings spread out across a number of
levels that are connected by stairs as well as a glass lift.
An extensive wine list is also at your disposal as well as an
outdoor terrace in the summer.QH‑1, Miesnieku 17, tel.
(+371) 25 66 56 65, www.piazzaitaliana.lv. Open 12:00-
23:00. A­­J­W
riga.inyourpocket.com

JAPANESE
SAMURAI SUSHI
Although the Samurai does serve a few Asian-style soups
as well as some tasty stir fries, it mainly specialises in a wide
variety of delicious sushi and sashimi, most of which can be
bought for two-for-one prices. That’s right, if you order a sushi
set, you get an identical set free of charge. Perhaps that’s why
this modern grey space is so popular with the locals despite
the teenage pop music emanating from the sound system.
In the summer you can also enjoy a cold beer with your meal
on its shady kerbside terrace.QC‑5, Marijas 25, tel. (+371) 60
00 13 01, www.samurai.lv. Open 11:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-
24:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. (€6 - 10). A­­V­W
THE CATCH
The Catch brings the best of Japan to Riga, but without any
pretension and without the chain-style ambience of com-
mercial sushi restaurants. This family-run business offers
sushi and sashimi, meals cooked on a robata grill, tempura
dishes, ramen soups and other ‘bowls’ as well as Japanese
beer and signature cocktails. The crunchy sea bass truffle
was excellent as was the ma fa tofu bowl and the matcha
tea ice cream was the perfect finale to the evening. Take
a seat at the bar, in the window niche or under colourful
murals of mermaids deeper inside this trendy, yet casual
half-basement. Reservations recommended.QB‑3, An-
tonijas 12 (entrance from Dzirnavu), tel. (+371) 27 77 00
91, www.thecatch.lv. Open 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-
01:00, Sun 15:00-23:00. (€8 - 15). A­S­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Restaurants
KEBABS
REIGYS AUSMEŅA KEBABS
The small menu of cheap and tasty meat and falafel ke-
babs is written on the wall in a dialect of Latvian and the
delicious meals are served on traditional ceramic plates
from the Latgale region, which can be enjoyed with a soft
drink, beer, kvass (a malted rye beverage) or šmakovka
(Latgalian moonshine). Unlike their supposedly more au-
thentic Middle Eastern brethren, these čangaļi (people
from Latgale) don’t skimp on the meat and aren’t afraid to
add sriracha sauce to lend a little heat. Its popularity with
local hipsters often makes it difficult to get a table at lunch.
QB‑4, Skolas 12, tel. (+371) 24 22 22 12. Open 11:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (€3 - 5). A­S­W
KOREAN
SORAKSANS
Nealrly everything about this authentic restaurant, from
its rustic interior decorated with traditional masks and
paper lanterns to the delicious cuisine, is fantastic. Order
the infamous kim chi, guaranteed to put hairs on your
chest, or one of the many savoury meat dishes served in
sizzling skillets or red-hot ceramic pots. You can also throw
caution to the wind and cook your own meal at the table.
We recommend the posotgogipokom which tastes much
better than it sounds.QH‑1, Miesnieku 12, tel. (+371) 67
22 90 68, www.soraksans.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (€6 -
12). A­
October - November 2018 35
 Restaurants
LATVIAN CUISINE
Although most local food
won’t make it into any main-
stream diets, with perhaps
the exception of the At-
kins plan, one has to keep
in mind that for centuries
Latvians toiled in the fields
burning off thousands of
calories a day, so it’s not so
surprising that traditional
local cuisine is designed for
work horses, not office workers. Here then are some
dishes you’ll come across. Labu apetīti (bon appetit)!
Where to begin? That’s easy. A Latvian meal is seldom
complete without pork. Even if you order a dish with-
out the national meat, there’s a good chance that the
chef has snuck it into your food somehow, usually by
cooking other food, including vegetables, in bacon fat.
Karbonāde ar kaulu (grilled pork chops), karbonāde
(pork schnitzel) and cūkas stilbs (pork knuckle) are all
favourites, but for more exotic pig dishes keep an eye
out for cūkas ausis (pig’s ears), grūdenis (pig’s head
stew) and cūkas kājas (pig’s feet). Kartupeļi (pota-
toes) are served with everything and they’re usually
either boiled, fried, boiled and then fried or mashed.
Sometimes, traditional restaurants will also offer griķi
(boiled buckwheat) instead of potatoes. If in doubt,
stick with the potatoes. Kāposti (cabbage) also plays
a major role in most Latvian meals. Sometimes it’s
served cold as a salad or hot as a side dish like skābie
kāposti (sour kraut). We, however, prefer šķovētie or
štovētie kāposti, which is like sour kraut but sweeter
and darker in colour as it’s stewed longer with sugar.
Pelēkie zirņi (grey peas) is another side dish worth try-
ing. Big, brownish-grey round peas are boiled and then
fried with bacon and usually served with kefīrs (kefir)
or skābais krējums (sour cream).
All kinds of pickled items are also on offer at most Lat-
vian establishments including beets, mushrooms and,
of course, cucumbers. If you see the word marinēts on
a menu it means that something has been marinated
in vinegar. Latvians refer to all salads as salāti including
the classic local staple rosols, which is a combination
of pickled vegetables, potatoes and meat held together
with loads of majonēze (mayonnaise), sinepes (mus-
tard) and mārrutki (horseradish). Other salads are
drenched in sour cream.
Soups are usually hearty like frikadeļu zupa (meatball
soup), zirņu zupa (pea soup) and the Russian favourite
soļanka (tangy tomato soup with potatoes, sausage,
pork kidney and pickles). Latvian seasonings seldom
stray beyond dilles (dill), ķimenes (caraway seeds),
sāls (salt) and pipari (pepper).
36 Riga In Your Pocket
LATVIAN
ALUS ARSENĀLS
This classic brick cellar just off of Castle Square offers a
unique interior of low vaulted ceilings adorned with painted
fall foliage, stained glass lamps and wooden tables, benches
and chairs. The Beer Arsenal specialises in huge servings of
Latvian fare like metre-long sausages, beef tongue salad,
pig’s ears stuffed with caraway cheese and its signature
oven baked pork knuckle for two served on a wooden plat-
ter with a flaming torch. Naturally, a good selection of beer
is also on offer including its own light and dark microbrews.
Cheap daily specials under €5 are a bargain.QH‑1, Pils lau-
kums 4 (entrance from Arsenāla), tel. (+371) 67 32 26 75,
www.alus-arsenals.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€6 - 12). A­X­
FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Riga’s largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend
into the depths of this huge space to find a great selection
of affordable local brews and spirits as well as traditional
cuisine from kotletes (a type of meatball) and grey peas
with bacon to hard-to-find country dishes like pork and
pearl barley stew. Although it’s a favourite among frugal
students, it’s also popular with anyone who appreciates
good food, drink and music under medieval brick vaulted
ceilings. Reservations are essential if you’d like a table on
a Friday or Saturday evening.QI‑2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371)
27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.lv. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Wed
12:00 - 03:00, Thu 12:00 - 04:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat
14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. (€3 - 7). A­­E
MELNĀ BITE (BLACK BEE)
The Black Bee is located on the ground floor of a stylish
design hotel in Old Riga and its menu of Latvian and in-
ternational dishes is impressive and the serving sizes are
just the way locals like them – big! Join the hive and take
a seat next to bee-covered wallpaper underneath unique
lamps that look like they’re growing out of the ceiling.
Although you can enjoy anything from blood sausage
to catfish fillets, we highly recommend the pork knuckle
with sour kraut and potatoes that’s served on a wooden
platter.QI‑3, Audēju 13, tel. (+371) 67 13 06 75, www.
melnabite.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A­J­W
MEXICAN & TEX-MEX
TEX-MEX REPUBLIC (KLONDAIKA)
The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many
westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in
one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer,
head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled
the zelta raktuves (gold mines) or try the saloon-style
restaurant and bar. The Tex-Mex cuisine is just a couple of
degrees shy of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively
cheap. Food is served from 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
03:00.QC‑4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66, www.
texmex.lv. Open 24hrs. (€5 - 12). A­X­W
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
VEGETARIAN
MIIT
Although its slogan ‘coffee, bikes, food’ is certainly to
the point, it neglects to inform you that on weekdays
MiiT is also a vegetarian/vegan bistro that’s incredibly
popular with local hipsters and affluent arty types.
Roughly €5 will get you a tasty soup and a main course,
but you’ll have to pay extra for the excellent coffee,
the mouth-watering brownies or the Valmiermuižas
brews. The interior is simple, yet chicQB/C‑4, Lāčplēša
10, tel. (+371) 27 29 24 24, www.miit.lv. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. (€5). A­S­W
RUSSIAN
TĒVOCIS VAŅA (UNCLE VANYA)
Walk into this upmarket Russian restaurant and you’ll feel
like you’ve strolled onto the set of Doctor Zhivago… before
the revolution brought down the aristocracy. Uncle Vanya’s
elegant interior is loaded with shelves crammed full of old
books, ceramic figurines and other antiques and the walls
are covered in tsarist-era black and white photos and re-
productions of classic Russian paintings. The menu offers
modern versions of traditional Slavic cuisine presented in
a unique way.QH‑2, Smilšu 16, tel. (+371) 27 88 69 63,
www.unclevanya.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€10 - 20). A
SEAFOOD
ZIVJU LETE
The atmosphere is refreshingly casual, the interior modern,
yet cosy and the seafood at this popular restaurant is sim-
ply fantastic. Although we were more than satisfied with
the delicious seafood sauté for two, the steamed mussels,
surf and turf, oysters, grilled octopus and the New England
lobster roll have all been added to our wish list for our next
visit. Fine wines can also be ordered as well as Guinness
on draught, but if you can’t make up your mind, just take
a gander at what’s on ice at the fish counter. Reservations
recommended.QB‑4, Dzirnavu 41, tel. (+371) 20 29 16
53, www.zivjulete.lv. Open 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-
24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. €7 - 15. A­W
LATVIA FACT #91
In January of 1991 following the
bloody seizure of the TV Tower in
Vilnius, Latvians erected makeshift
barricades in Old Riga to protect
the Parliament, Latvian Radio and other strategic in-
stitutions from Soviet forces. Hundreds of unarmed
people manned the barricades in the freezing cold to
protect their dream of freedom from the USSR.
38 Riga In Your Pocket
STEAKHOUSES
STEIKU HAOSS (STEAK CHAOS)
Europeans often make fun of Americans but for some
reason they just can’t get enough of their ‘culture.’ If you
like thick, juicy steaks with giant Idaho baked potatoes,
wait staff in what look like line dancing outfits, then walk
through the swinging saloon doors and get ready for a
feast. The servings are impressive, but bear in mind that
the prices are also Texas-sized.QI‑2, Audēju 2, tel. (+371)
67 22 56 99, www.steikuhaoss.lv. Open 13:00 - 23:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Also at C-4, Tērbatas 41/43,
tel. (+371) 67 27 27 07. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00; H-2, Meistaru 25, tel. (+371)
67 22 24 19. (€14 - 28). A­E
UPMARKET
BIBLIOTĒKA NO1 RESTORĀNS
If you’re looking for refined European cuisine in an elegant,
yet modern setting on two floors with fantastic views of
Vērmanes Park, there’s no better option than Library No.1.
The interior is decorated with shelves full of books, an
entire wall of wine, wooden columns and huge overhead
lamps. The menu is seasonal and often includes anything
from venison steaks to glazed veal cheeks. The restaurant
also prides itself on its extensive wine selection and the
largest Champagne menu in the Baltics. Brunch is avail-
able on Sundays.QG‑3, Tērbatas 2, tel. (+371) 20 22 50
00, www.restoransbiblioteka.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (€15 - 26). A­L
KOLONĀDE. OUR STORIES
You couldn’t ask for a more perfect location. Housed in an
historic building surrounded by Ionic columns, Kolonāde
offers postcard quality views of the Freedom Monument
and the Laima Clock as well as the National Opera and its
gardens. The menu specialises in seasonal gourmet Lat-
vian and international dishes and an extensive drinks list
is also available, which includes an incredible selection
of wine (30 by the glass) that has been carefully selected
by the restaurant’s sommelier. Delicious desserts are also
available and best enjoyed in its glass conservatory, whose
mood lighting changes with time of day.QH‑3, Brīvības
bulvāris 26, tel. (+371) 26 60 88 82, www.kolonade.lv.
Open 11:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€10 - 18). A­J­W
LE SOMMET
For anyone who expects their upmarket international cui-
sine to be accompanied by fantastic views, Le Sommet can
certainly tick both of those boxes. Located on the 11th floor
of the four-star Bellevue Park Hotel, this elegant restaurant
decorated in subdued beige and brown tones lets the vistas
from the floor-to-ceiling windows do all the heavy lifting.
Start with grilled scallops or mussels in Gorgonzola sauce
and move on to the rack of lamb or perhaps a ribeye steak.
QE‑1, Slokas 1 (11th floor), tel. (+371) 29 97 32 59, www.
lesommet.lv. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (€15 - 22). A­P­L­W
riga.inyourpocket.com

MUUSU
Just look for the historic 18th-century townhouse on one
of Old Riga’s most picturesque cobblestone streets to
find this warm and inviting, yet modern restaurant spe-
cialising in upmarket international cuisine. Muusu offers a
number of different settings including a cosy bar area up
front, a spacious bright winter garden in the back and a
more intimate second floor that leads out to a stunning
courtyard terrace. The service is almost too attentive, but
most people won’t mind being fawned over by attractive,
smiling wait staff.QI‑2, Skārņu 6, tel. (+371) 25 77 25 52,
www.muusu.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
(€12 - 24). A­W
MUUSU TERASE
One of Latvia’s best fine dining establishments has
opened a second sister restaurant, but this time they’ve
moved beyond the old town at an incredible location on
the River Daugava overlooking Riga’s yacht marina and
ferry terminal. You can expect the same high standards,
innovative cuisine and professional service as well as a
subtle green and blue interior with a slight nautical theme.
Naturally, in the summer months you’d be mad not to
reserve a table on the multi-level terrace where you can
watch the chefs prepare many of the restaurant’s speciali-
ties over a charcoal grill. Fantastic cocktails also shouldn’t
be overlooked.QB‑3, Eksporta 1A, tel. (+371) 26 69 99
66, www.muusu.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (€15 - 25). A­­L­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Restaurants
NEIBURGS
One of Riga’s finest art nouveau buildings is home to a
stylish, upmarket restaurant offering both international
and Latvian-style cuisine. Inside you’ll find grey walls
covered by ever-changing art exhibitions, light parquet
floors and spider-like chandeliers made from black read-
ing lamps. Order salads, pasta, Latvian-raised beef and
even ostrich fillets as well as seafood or try its affordable
lunch specials in a refined setting on a bustling cobble-
stone street flanked by bars and cafés. Breakfast is served
07:00 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.QI‑1, Jauniela 25/27,
tel. (+371) 67 11 55 44, www.neiburgs.com. Open 11:00
- 23:00. (€8 - 20). A­
SNOB BAR & RESTAURANT
Spread out across a number of posh rooms and niches,
you can find an interior to suit nearly any mood at this
expansive upmarket restaurant or simply dine at the ad-
joining bar, which not only provides views of the park
and the Riga Canal, but also a couple of big flat screens
showing sports. The dining areas are a refined riot of
blues, greys, browns, golds and even hot pinks and of-
fer an eclectic mix of marble, parquet and brass. You’ll
find sophisticated international cuisine on the menu,
not to mention an impressive selection of wines, which
are stored in a specialised refrigerator near the entrance.
QG‑2, Raiņa bulvāris 5/6, tel. (+371) 60 00 86 06,
www.grandpoet.semarahhotels.com. Open 12:00 -
01:00. A­W
October - November 2018 39
 Nightlife
Riga’s nightlife scene has had its ups and downs over the years,
but, thankfully, neighbourhood pubs are still thriving and
many clubs are once again open until the last paying customer
leaves. Sadly some strip clubs and late-night bars are still out to
scam tourists, so take those beer goggles off and be vigilant.
BARS
ANDALŪZIJAS SUNS
The Andalusian Dog has been a staple of the expat eat-
ing and drinking scene since it opened over a decade
ago. Although its main attractions haven’t changed,
namely decent Tex-Mex food, a lively atmosphere and
an incredible summer terrace, Suns received a facelift to
its spacious, industrial-style interior in early 2014. You can
expect shiny white tiles behind a refurbished wooden bar,
but otherwise not much has changed apart from the ad-
dition of high-end gin and craft brews.QC‑4, Elizabetes
83/85 (Berga bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 84 18, www.
andaluzijassuns.lv. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. A­W
DM BAR RIGA
Although Tallinn has had a Depeche Mode bar for several
years, Latvia’s DM-themed pub only opened at the begin-
ning of 2014. Watch live concerts on flat screen TVs and
order cocktails named after famous songs like Strange-
love, Black Celebration and the non-alcoholic Behind the
Wheel. This tiny cellar bar also offers some unusual DM
memorabilia and a red and white colour scheme in keep-
ing with the Violator album.QH‑1, Mazā Pils 5, tel. (+371)
28 60 04 53/(+371) 29 49 27 29. Open 18:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A­J­W
FUNNY FOX (JAUTRĀ LAPSA)
If you’re in the mood for pub food and drinks and a laid back
atmosphere in Old Riga then the Funny Fox might just be
a good option for you. A huge blackboard which lists all
of the available drinks from coffee to big cocktails runs the
length of the long bar and you can sit at a number of tables
or chat with a bartender from the comfort of a stool. Order
anything from local and foreign brews to chicken wings and
fish and chips or try its lunch specials. It’s also a good place
to watch sports on a number of flat screen TVs and one of
the few places in town that offers karaoke every night at
22:00.QI‑2, Grēcinieku 1, tel. (+371) 28 48 24 26, www.
funnyfoxbar.com. Open 08:00 - 06:00. A­­J
LATVIA FACT #92
In the 19th century breweries
could be found throughout what
is now Latvia, but none as large
as Waldschlösschen, which was
founded in 1865. In 1906 it was Europe’s most modern
brewery and roughly 30 years later the company was
renamed Aldaris (or Beer Brewer in Latvian).
40 Riga In Your Pocket
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino T Child-friendly
V Home delivery E Live music
J Old town location B Outside seating
X Smoking section S Takeaway
W Wi-fi
HHC (HARDCORE HANGOVER CLUB)
The name says it all. HHC is definitely a good place to
nurse a hangover in relative anonymity. Choose from
three different varieties of Lāčplēsis beer from dark to
light for cheap prices or the more expensive Brenguļu
microbrew also on draught. You can also order cock-
tails, play board games, have a smoke in the back room
or just hang out with hard-drinking, tattooed goths
and bohemians.QI‑2, Peldu 21, tel. (+371) 63 31 57
55, www.hhc.lv. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 16:00
- 04:00, Fri 16:00 - 06:00, Sat 17:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00
- 01:00. A­­J
KIWI BAR
Over the years Riga has had its share of English and Irish
pubs, but this is the first kiwi pub to open its doors in
the Latvian capital. Friendly staff pour a good selection
of foreign and domestic beers behind a huge rectan-
gular bar while patrons admire the light wood interior
and watch sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. You can
order a variety of pub food from burgers, breakfasts
and meat pies to sandwiches and ribs or even Indian
cuisine from neighbouring Indian Raja.QI‑2, Skārņu 7,
tel. (+371) 67 21 19 17, www.kiwibar.lv. Open 09:00 -
05:00. A­­J­W
KROGS APTIEKA (PHARMACY BAR)
After presiding over a staple of the Washington DC
nightlife scene for several years, American-Latvian Kri-
staps Krēsliņš opened yet another Pharmacy Bar, but
this time in the Latvian capital. Medieval brick walls,
medicinal tinctures and scales, tables embedded with
capsules and pills and painted silhouettes of old-fash-
ioned bottles on two floors are a clever combination
of old and new and the perfect backdrop for a night of
cocktails and beers. That said, this hip hangout isn’t just
about imbibing. A small menu of burgers, grill cheese
sandwiches and chicken wings have also been added to
the pharmacy’s inventory, so you can grab a great meal
here every day until 22:00. The bar also provides a free
CD jukebox that offers anything from Johnny Cash to
Fugazi.QH‑1, Mazā Miesnieku 1, www.krogsaptieka.
lv. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 05:00. A­X ­­E­J
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
LENINGRAD
Workers of the world, get loaded! Leningrad has Soviet era
paintings, books, vintage wallpaper, antique radios and
a bust or two of the infamous bearded commie with the
bald head. The bar, which is stocked with bottles of Scot-
tish beers by Brew Dog, Latvian cider and plenty of hard li-
quor, can be found to the left, while the concert hall is just
to the right. When live bands aren’t playing you can expect
a steady diet of eccentric as well as classic alternative rock
that’s listened to by students, punks, patriots and even the
occasional politician. QG‑2, Valdemāra 4, tel. (+371) 26
16 13 35, www.leningrad.lv. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 07:00. A­E­W
LIMONĀDE
Although we couldn’t seem to find enough of our inner
teenager to appreciate the pop music emanating from the
speakers, we were bowled over, nearly literally, by the wide
array of shockingly cheap cocktails on offer, particularly
the burciņa, which is a Long Island ice tea served in a litre
mason jar.QI‑2, Peldu 26, tel. (+371) 28 66 65 50. Open
18:00 - 06:00, Tue 18:00 - 02:00, Wed 18:00 - 03:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. A­­J
CASINOS & GAMING HALLS
Latvian law compels all gamblers to register at each ca-
sino they visit, so bring a passport or valid ID.
OLYMPIC CASINO - OLYBET
Located on the ground floor of the Radisson Blu Ho-
tel Latvija, this is supposedly the biggest casino in the
Baltics. A sports bar with live betting opportunities
and a 24-hour sushi bar are also available. It’s other
locations specialise in slot machines, but also have 24-
hour sports bars where you can bet on your favourite
teams.QC‑4, Brīvības 31 (entrance from Dzirnavu),
tel. (+371) 67 82 87 77, www.olympic-casino.com.
Also at H-3, Raiņa bulvāris 15; H-2, Meistaru 10; C-4,
Barona 3, tel. (+371) 26 52 23 20; C-4, Marijas 12, tel.
(+371) 26 32 89 49; D-4, Marijas 2; B-5, Brīvības 90.
Open 24hrs. A­K­W
SL CASINO RIGA
With casinos in Minsk, Tbilisi and Yerevan, this is the
Shangri La group’s first venture in the European Union.
Located in the elegant five-star Grand Hotel Kempin-
ski on the edge of Old Riga just opposite the National
Opera, SL offers all of the classic table games such as
poker, American roulette and blackjack, as well as the
latest slot machines in a separate area. A VIP room is also
available for high-stakes betting and a sports bar is also
at your disposal. And despite its upmarket appearance,
drinks prices are remarkably affordable.QH‑3, Aspazi-
jas bulvāris 22, tel. (+371) 63 00 03 00, www.sl-casino.
lv. Open 24hrs. P­O­J­A­E­X­W
42 Riga In Your Pocket
NEMIERS
We enjoy simple watering holes that don’t put on airs
and Nemiers (or Unrest), which refers to itself as dive bar,
certainly fits the bill. This dark industrial style space also
sports a small mezzanine above the bar that stocks plen-
ty of top shelf booze behind a cage of sorts. The pretty
barmaid assured us, as she cast a disapproving glance
at the neighbouring club, that the bar usually plays rock
music and judging by the Motörhead and Rage Against
the Machine that emanated from the speakers, she
wasn’t kidding. Order affordable cocktails or beer and
cider on draught and see why this fun space and its large
summer terrace have fast become one of our favourite
hangouts.QA‑5, Briāna 9a, tel. (+371) 29 19 77 00.
Open 17:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 -
02:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. A­
OMAS BRILJANTA ISTABA
The interior is chic and retro with lots of private niches,
old couches, multi-coloured lamps and even a ceramic
chandelier above the bar that looks like it was stolen from
your granny’s living room. The beats emanating from
the wallpapered DJ stand are as funky and bohemian as
the staff and clientele and you can get a wide variety of
cocktails as well as Czech and Latvian brews on draught.
Large windows on two sides of this corner building afford
patrons great views of passers-by outside, but if you can’t
get a seat down here then head upstairs for yet another
bar, a small dance floor and plenty more places to take a
load off.QI‑2, Audēju 7, tel. (+371) 26 12 12 66, www.
omasbriljants.lv. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Wed 12:00 - 03:00,
Thu 12:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. A­­E­J
PIECI VILKI (FIVE WOLVES)
Owned by a prominent member of a local motorcycle
club, Five Wolves is sometimes frequented by local neigh-
bourhood types sipping beers and at other times by hard-
looking, hard-drinking leather-clad men with beards. The
menu offers a bit of everything including fried eggs and
bacon served on red-hot cast iron pans, chicken wings in
extra large sizes and steak served just right. Shot takers
shouldn’t pass up the vodka bottle served in a block of ice.
QB‑4, Stabu 6, tel. (+371) 29 24 22 26, www.piecivilki.
lv. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A­
RĪGAS BALZAMS
Frequented by day by diplomats and embassy staff who
work in the Jacob’s Barracks, this bar/restaurant provides
a warm, intimate setting a few steep steps from the old
city wall. Named after the national drink of Latvia, Balzams
offers far more than just potent elixirs. The atmosphere is
convivial in the evenings, with well-heeled locals having
a good time with cocktails made from the bitter black
herbal liquor which is actually better than it sounds when
mixed with something else. It’s also a good place to sam-
ple some classic Latvian cuisine.QH‑2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba
kazarmas), tel. (+371) 67 21 44 94, www.balzambars.lv.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. A­
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
LATVIAN SPIRITS
Latvians have a reputation for enjoying a drink and
deservedly so. Although we prefer a cold brew to get
our drink on, many locals long for a shot of something
stronger.
The most iconic of Latvian booze is Riga Black
Balsam (Rīgas Melnais balzams), a potent herbal bitter
that looks like used motor oil and which packs a punch
at 45% alcohol. You can try it neat, but it’s best enjoyed
in a cocktail with steaming hot black currant juice called
karstais balzams, which can be enjoyed in nearly any bar
or restaurant. You can also try it with apple juice and oth-
er ingredients in Riga’s official cocktail – the Clavis Riga.
Although not nearly as popular, Allažu ķimelis (40%
alcohol) is still created according to its medieval recipe
and you can even visit the merchant house (Mentzen-
dorff’s House, I-2, Grēcinieku 18) in Old Riga of the family
that first produced it. It’s a liqueur with a pronounced
caraway seed flavour similar to Scandinavian aquavit. It’s
more difficult to find, but can be bought at any Latvijas
Balzams shop in Riga.
Latvians also produce their own moonshine. Popu-
lar in the countryside, especially in the eastern region of
Latgale, it’s a mainstay at weddings and big celebrations.
Luckily, you no longer have to scour the hinterlands
of Latvia to ‘enjoy’ a shot of this flammable spirit often
called kandža or šmakauka (also šmakovka) by locals.
You can enjoy a wide variety of flavours by local brand
Akmeņlauzis (Rock Breaker – 40% alcohol) at Folkklubs
Ala Pagrabs (I-2, Peldu 19) in Old Riga or try a shot of a
honey based moonshine called Rižskij Samogon (43%
alcohol) in the fish pavilion of Riga’s Central Market (J-3,
Centrāltirgus iela) from 09:00 - 18:00. It may also inter-
est you to know that Russian vodka brand Stolichnaya,
also known as Stoli, is produced in Riga. The SPI group,
which also owns Latvijas Balzams, has been engaged in
several lawsuits with the original Russian owner FKP Soy-
uzplodimport. For now, if you see a Stolichnaya bottle
with a label that reads ‘Premium Vodka’ and not ‘Russian
Vodka’ then it was produced in Latvia. Photo courtesy of
Akmeņlauzis on Facebook
Find more features at:
riga.inyourpocket.com
44 Riga In Your Pocket
THE ARMOURY BAR
Many people have a fascination with firearms and given
the numerous displays of authentic pistols, machine guns,
semi-automatic weapons and even grenades at this fun bar,
its owners clearly belong to this group. However, the origi-
nal medieval walls, the roughly hewn wooden bar and the
generally stylish ambience make this cosy venue look more
like a place where captains of industry might enjoy an aged
single malt after a fox hunt, rather than a hole in the wall
where tobacco-chewing, pistol-packing rednecks would
chug cheap beer and long for Dixie. In short, if you like craft
brews from around the globe, only the finest spirits, espe-
cially whisky, and, of course, lots and lots of guns (which
you’re allowed to play with), then this is the place for you
to embrace your inner warrior with both locals and expats.
Table football is available downstairs.QI‑2, Vecpilsētas 11,
tel. (+371) 20 53 81 53. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Tue 14:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. A­J
BEER BARS
ALUS CELLE
This underground beer bar is located in a small cellar with
hardwood floors, brick walls and an unusual central pour-
ing station that looks more like a church pulpit than a bar.
It’s manned by one of the city’s fiercest beer snobs who
offers nothing but the finest ales, IPAs, stouts and other
delicious brews from around the globe, not to mention a
few local beers that are deemed good enough to grace his
Beer Cell, a reference to the Belgian monks who produce
some of the world’s best brews. Dozens of beers are avail-
able in bottles as well as roughly eight draught brews and
you can also order sausage and cheese plates if you get
hungry.QB‑4, Baznīcas 35, tel. (+371) 24 11 85 56. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
ALUS MUIŽA
The Beer Manor is perhaps the city centre’s cosiest water-
ing hole even though it more than doubled its size in the
summer of 2017. Raised wooden tables, colourful lighting
and reed mats used as wallpaper all contribute to a comfy,
almost beach bar atmosphere that’s only trumped by its
selection of Latvian craft brews on draught, all of which
are poured by its owners, two Latvian brothers. Some
small snacks such as salted peanuts and crisps are also
available and they’ll also pour you takeaway beers in plas-
tic bottles.QC‑5, Ģertrūdes 45, tel. (+371) 25 12 71 72.
Open 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. A­­S
POOL HALLS
NB
Unlike the gritty pool halls you see in action movies, this
one is often full of groups of twenty-something boys
and girls having a good time as well as the occasional
pool shark. Dozens of billiard tables for €4/hour.QH‑2,
Šķūņu 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 63 51. Open 24hrs. A
riga.inyourpocket.com

BREW PUBS
LABIETIS
Although difficult to find as it’s hidden in a small courtyard
behind the popular club Piens, once you reach Labietis
you’re faced with the difficult task of tasting 12 delicious
craft brews made on the premises from American-style
IPAs and English bitters to special beers made with Latvian
herbs. The brewery is clearly visible behind a glass parti-
tion and you can enjoy a tasty beer at the bar, by the win-
dows or at an incredibly large wooden table in the middle
of the room.QA‑5, Aristīda Briāna 9A-2, tel. (+371) 25 65
59 58, www.labietis.lv. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Mon 16:00
- 22:00, Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Thu 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 -
03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. A­S
ZIEMEĻU ENKURS
Drop anchor at the latest establishment to join the Latvian
craft brew revolution. Northern Anchor offers a clandes-
tine location in a disused industrial building but you’ll have
to take the stairs to the second floor to find its cosy interior,
which offers, you guessed it, a nautical theme of sailing
charts and coiled ropes. Choose from a variety of tasty
beers with names like Mermaid, Icebreaker and Propeller
or order four small tasters for only €3. A brunch buffet is
also available every day (weekdays €7, weekends €10) from
11:00 - 16:00. You can also abandon ship for the comfort of
a large terrace balcony.QB‑5, Matīsa 8, tel. (+371) 20 72
22 00, www.ziemeluenkurs.lv. Open 11:00-01:00, Mon,
Tue 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. A­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Nightlife
CLUBS
AUTENTIKA
Although this underground club specialising in electronic
music opens its doors at 19:00, people usually don’t show
up in its graffiti-covered environs until just before midnight.
Located in a ramshackle wooden building in a forlorn com-
pound that was once part of a brewery, you have to have
the right mind-set to appreciate its scruffy charm. It’s defi-
nitely not the place to see locals in their hottest ‘clubwear’,
but if you appreciate the contemporary DJ scene, excellent
local craft brews on draught and a hipsterish vibe, then this
just might be the place for you.QB‑4, Bruņinieku 2, tel.
(+371) 26 10 89 78. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. ­E­W
COYOTE FLY
Housed in the exclusive Vernisāža complex in the
Vērmanes Park, you pretty much have to be well-heeled,
well-dressed and local to gain entrance to this pleasure
palace for Riga’s elite, which essentially consists of ce-
lebrities, TV personalities and the über-rich. Foreign DJs
are often imported from around Europe and its stage is
also graced by local musicians, rappers and the like. You
can expect a trendy atmosphere, expensive cocktails and
Champagne and, of course, incredibly beautiful wait staff,
but as a tourist in the Latvian capital, you might not pass
its strict face control.QC‑4, Tērbatas 2, tel. (+371) 20
22 60 00, www.coyotefly.lv. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 -
07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. A­­W
October - November 2018 45
 Nightlife
instagram.com/inyourpocket
DEPO (DEPOT)
Underground music lovers, hip youth and over the hill
travel writers, this is the stop where you get off. Indie
groups and DJ’s from abroad, garage bands and an alter-
native crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the
few to sponsor rock, hardcore, heavy metal, punk, reggae
and experimental music genres. Watch the bands perform
in the basement or just have a beer on the ground floor.
QI‑2, Vaļņu 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo.
lv. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Admission:
concerts €5 - 7. A­X­­E­J
FRIENDS
This nightclub is located in the basement of Latvia’s biggest
hotel and conference centre. Take the stairs to the cosy cel-
lar decorated with little niches and comfortable couches.
Order wine, champagne or cocktails to give you the liquid
courage you might need to engage in this club’s speciality:
karaoke. Yes, you don’t have to go to Tokyo or Seoul to make
a fool of yourself in front of strangers or to show off what an
incredible voice you have. Choose from over 45,000 songs
in English, Swedish, Norwegian, Spanish French, Latvian
and Russian and let the crooning begin!QC‑4, Elizabetes
55 (Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 29 29 94 44,
www.clubfriends.lv. Open 21:00 - 06:00. A­E
46 Riga In Your Pocket
GAY RIGA
TOP CLUB RIGA
Ring the bell and enter Riga’s hottest LGBTQ destina-
tion. Top is much more than your average gay bar as it
also offers a lounge and dance floor as well as a laby-
rinth of niches, nooks and crannies worth exploring.
Although disco balls, mirrors and plastic mannequins
featuring men’s behinds serve as décor in the inner
depths of the club, the bar area up front is more casual
and includes seating on upcycled cargo palates, black
glass chandeliers and an exhibition of portraits of in-
digenous people in all their finery. Handsome, stylish
men pour local beer, Champagne and cocktails which
include LED ice cubes.QC‑4, A. Kalniņa 4, tel. (+371)
22 80 82 02, www.topclub.lv. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 07:00. Admission: Fri, Sat after 22:00
from €1.60 - 6. A­E­W
LATVIJAS 1. ROKKAFEJNĪCA
It’s a restaurant, bar and club all in one as well as a museum
of sorts for Latvian music memorabilia that’s displayed on
its walls. You can expect affordable international food and
live music at least a few times a week. .QI‑2, Mārstaļu 2/4,
tel. (+371) 26 67 85 55, www.rockcafe.lv. Open 10:00 -
06:00, Thu 10:00 - 08:00, Fri 11:00 - 08:00, Sat 12:00 -
08:00, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. (€6 - 10). A­E­J
riga.inyourpocket.com

ONE ONE
Although difficult to find, this late night club is actually lo-
cated in a popular creative quarter home to some of the
city’s best bars and cafés. Housed in an historic yellow brick
building with high ceilings and soaring, cathedral-like win-
dows, One One prides itself on its quality electronic music
presented by hip local DJs like Kris Hovel, but big names
such as Richy Ahmed of Hot Creations and legendary Roma-
nian DJ Pitcu have also performed here. Bear in mind that
things don’t get going here until well after midnight, but
there are plenty of other venues next door where you can
warm up.QA‑5, Šarlotes 18A, www.oneoneriga.lv. Open
Wed 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Thu, Sun. Admission: men €5, women €3. A­E
PIENS (MILK)
Located in a renovated 19th-century brewery on the edge
of the city centre, this self-proclaimed sofa bar is hard to
find and that’s the way the owners like it. Those in the
know know that this is one of Riga’s hottest cocktail bars
and many don’t mind queuing up at the weekend to sit on
one of many couches that are each completely different
in style from your grandma’s sofa to one you’d expect to
see in your doctor’s waiting room. With two large terraces
and a funky, eclectic interior, colourful, hip and laid-back
Milk is hard to beat.QA‑5, Aristida Briāna 9, tel. (+371) 66
01 63 00, www.piens.nu. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed 11:00
- 05:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 -
035:00. Closed Sun. A­
PŪCE (THE OWL)
If it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and quacks like a duck
common sense would lead you to believe that it actually is
a duck, but in this case you’d be wrong. Although visually
difficult to differentiate from its legendary predecessor, The
Colonel, which was a staple of Riga’s alternative club scene
for nearly two decades, the Owl is basically a big bar that
inherited huge shoes that it just can’t fill. On the bright side,
if you’ve never been here before you’ll no doubt appreciate
the cosy atmosphere, unique interior, free foosball table and
the affordable beers and cocktails smack in the middle of
one of the city’s busiest nightlife streets.QI‑2, Peldu 26/28,
tel. (+371) 25 71 41 92, www.puceklubsnakti.lv. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Wed 18:00 - 02:00, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 18:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. A­J
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Nightlife
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
JOCKEY CLUB
The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club has provided
adult entertainment for Riga’s citizens and visitors
since the mid-1990s. Naked ladies practice their trade
every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women
dance around a pole for your amusement between
shows. A fulll stocked bar is of course available, but
private dances from incredibly beautiful women
seem to be the major draw. An expat favourite.QF-3,
Elizabetes 49, tel. (+371) 67 22 88 44, www.jockey.lv.
Open 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: €15. A
LABI
For nearly 20 years this chain of sex shops has offered
private video booths, live strip shows and a huge selec-
tion of films, sex toys and other gear to spice up one’s
love life. Unlike many clubs that are out to rip you off in
Riga, Labi provides professional staff and decent prices
should you be one of this planet’s many financially chal-
lenged lonely males. Splurge on some live interactive
erotic entertainment for around €50 or spend much less
on a peep show.Q C-4, A. Kalniņa 8, www.labi.tev.
lv. Open 24hrs. Also at C-5, Lāčplēša 47. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs, Sun till 18:00;
B-5, Brīvības 98. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
COCKTAILS
CHURCHILL COCKTAIL SALOON
Classy hostesses in nearly see-through sequin dresses
cater to your every need at this elegant, old world space
that is part English gentlemen’s club complete with dark
wood panelling, a crystal chandelier and plush, velvety
furnishings and part elite cocktail lounge where some of
the nation’s best mixologists make a show of creating in-
credible drinks (€8 - 13). Although the dimly lit space has
an air of exclusivity, the staff do their best to make you
feel like a regular, even if it’s your first visit to Churchill.
QH‑2, Aldaru 4, tel. (+371) 25 40 44 88. Open Thu
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. A­E ­J ­W
October - November 2018 47
 Nightlife
COD BAR
Tired of the same old drinks? Looking for a secluded, yet
stylish place to enjoy a cocktail without the noise and
the tourists of Old Riga? This exclusive Japanese-style bar
complete with a giant manga painting on the wall serves
expertly poured classic drinks with a Japanese twist and
specialises in shochu (a distilled spirit) and sake (brewed
rice wine) as well as Japanese whiskies and craft brews.
Just walk past the living wall of moss on the ground floor
restaurant and take the stairs to the basement lounge.
Naturally, a complete menu of authentic Japanese cuisine
is also available.QC‑4/5, Tērbatas 45, tel. (+371) 25 72
56 70, www.cod.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. Closed Sun. A­W­K
SPOT KAFÉ
This tiny shot café and cocktail lounge offers an interior
of stylish couches, hardwood floors, an exposed brick wall
and even disco balls. Order expertly poured mixed drinks
for affordable prices not to mention incredibly cheap shots
around the €2 mark with hilarious, often profane names
that will get you giggling before the alcohol even touches
your tonsils. If things get too crowded inside on DJ nights
you can always take your drinks out on the lovely terrace
that offers views of Riga Cathedral’s ancient grave markers
across the street. Although not a sports bar by any twist
of the imagination, Spot Kafé often shows big games on
a flat screen.QH‑1, Jauniela 19, tel. (+371) 20 44 88 11,
www.spotkafe.lv. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00,
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. A­­J­W
THE LEFT DOOR BAR
If the number of cocktail bars a city has is an accurate ba-
rometer of the local economy, then Riga must be doing
fairly well as yet another establishment specialising in mixed
drinks has opened its doors (or at least the left one) on posh
Antonijas iela. You can expect top shelf liquor and home-
made syrups in your drinks here, which will cost you roughly
€9. We enjoyed the old fashioned with bacon-infused bour-
bon served in a tiki mug, but you might try a blackberry
toddy on a cold day or a ginger Collins to cool down. Sip
your cocktail in one of the candlelit window niches or take
a seat on one of the couches in the lounge hidden behind
the bar. QB‑4, Antonijas 12, tel. (+371) 26 30 03 68, www.
theleftdoorbar.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00,
Sat 18:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. A­W
NIGHTLIFE TOURS
TRAVEL2RIGA
This experienced company has been arranging special
events, tours and excursions for Riga’s guests since
2005. Travel2Riga offers low-key or VIP nightlife tours
as well as activities like AK47 shooting, go-karting, sail-
ing, paintball, zorb football, bungee jumping and even
bobsleighing just to name a few.QI‑2, Tirgoņu 10, tel.
(+371) 22 08 46 13, www.travel2riga.com. A
48 Riga In Your Pocket
HIPSTER BARS
Č (CHOMSKY)
Were it not for the legions of hipsters smoking and drink-
ing on the unkempt lawn of this neglected building, you’d
never know that one of Riga’s best underground bars is
hidden inside. After a move in 2017 from its previous lo-
cation in a derelict wooden edifice on Lāčplēša, Chomsky
is back in business pouring cheap Latvian beer as well as
some excellent offerings from some of the nation’s best
craft breweries like Malduguns. Wine and cocktails as well
as a few snacks can also be had in the bright bar area up
front or in the dark hall in the back. Expect an alternative
crowd and an eclectic soundtrack to match.QC‑4, Dzir-
navu 82. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A­
GAUJA
Although the interior isn’t as rough around the edges as
the original location, Gauja’s new home in a dilapidated
wooden building on Stabu iela still offers plenty of old
school ambience, especially the vintage 1970s Soviet fur-
niture and lighting fixtures. Cheap Latvian beer is the main
attraction here and you can even order food, desserts and
proper coffee from a fancy machine, which will no doubt
be considered a major upgrade by its hipster clientele.
Much larger than its previous incarnation on Tērbatas, the
new Gauja appears to be ready to take on some serious
crowds. Perhaps the mint green walls will have a soothing
effect on the neighbourhood’s frugal, yet hard-drinking
locals.QC‑5, Stabu 32, tel. (+371) 66 90 82 00, www.
bufetegauja.lv. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. A­­W
KKC (KAŅEPES KULTŪRAS CENTRS)
Although kaņepes is actually weed or hemp in Latvian,
don’t get your hopes up. This funky, self-proclaimed cul-
ture centre run by a guy whose last name happens to be
Kaņepe is actually a local hotspot for hipsters who ap-
preciate having drinks, listening to music and doing other
arty things in a dilapidated wooden building. Its summer
courtyard is by far its greatest asset and it’s usually full of
people knocking back beers on old furniture. You can also
come here for concerts and art exhibitions, so check its
Facebook page for upcoming events.QB‑4, Skolas 15,
tel. (+371) 29 40 44 05, www.kanepes.lv. Open 13:00 -
02:00, Thu 13:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 05:00. E­W
LIVE MUSIC
ČETRI BALTI KREKLI
Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their way
to this club when they want to hear nothing but familiar
rock and quality live performances. Bring a well-versed na-
tive to point out famous writers and artists, who often find
inspiration under the brick ceiling. White shirts aren’t re-
quired, but no matter how much you smile at the bouncer,
you won’t get in wearing trainers.QI‑3, Vecpilsētas 12, tel.
(+371) 28 68 84 88, www.krekli.lv. Open 22:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: €2 - 5. A­X­E
riga.inyourpocket.com

FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS
One of Riga’s largest Latvian beer bars and restaurants,
Folk Club Ala is more of a cavern than a cellar. Descend
into the depths of this huge space to find a great selec-
tion of affordable local brews and spirits as well as tra-
ditional cuisine and an ever-changing line-up of folk
bands guaranteed to get you moving. Although it’s a
favourite among frugal students, it’s also popular with
anyone who appreciates good food, drink and music
under medieval brick vaulted ceilings. Reservations are
essential if you’d like a table on a Friday or Saturday night.
QI‑2, Peldu 19, tel. (+371) 27 79 69 14, www.folkklubs.
lv. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Wed 12:00 - 03:00, Thu 12:00
- 04:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 -
01:00. A­­E­J
MOONSHINE
If B.B.King were still alive and riffing, he would no doubt
feel at home at this two-storey shrine to American music
whether it be blues, jazz or rockabilly. Pass the cherry red
hot rod at the door and have a drink and a meal at the
ground floor Garage, which looks like a combination of a
roadhouse and a diner. Upstairs you’ll find a more refined
restaurant and club where musicians from near and far
entertain in the evenings. If the murals of American scen-
ery don’t grab your attention, perhaps the staff in 1950s
rockabilly outfits will.QH/I‑2, Kaļķu 12, tel. (+371) 26 65
63 68/(+371) 67 22 22 03, www.moonshineriga.lv. Open
11:00 - 04:00. (€7 - 20). A­E­J­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Nightlife
TROMPETE TAPROOM (THE TRUMPET)
One of the city’s wildest streets has finally been given a
touch of class with this casual, yet refined jazz club, restau-
rant and craft beer bar. Its centuries-old brick walls are cov-
ered in brass instruments and a working fireplace makes
the already intimate ambience even cosier. Head into the
main room where live jazz music is performed throughout
the week.QI‑2, Peldu 24, tel. (+371) 25 74 52 99, www.
trompete.lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A­­E­J
PUBS
AUSSIE PUB
Riga’s first Aussie pub provides plenty of authentic down
under atmosphere but thankfully without any of the usual
trappings of stuffed koalas or, God forbid, any portraits of
Paul Hogan. Spread out across three floors, the pub offers
plenty of tasty and cheap local beers on draught as well as
Australia’s best craft brew, Coopers, in bottles and all are
served from a bar that’s actually an old VW combi van. If
you’re feeling really nostalgic you can even order a VB. Fun
raffles and lotteries are held often and you can also par-
ticipate in beer pong and sumo nights. If the cheap happy
hour prices (17:00 - 19:00 every day!) are too much for you to
handle you can always crash at its hostel upstairs. You can
bring in food from nearby cafés and fast food joints.QI‑3,
Vaļņu 43, tel. (+371) 67 22 34 06, www.aussiepubriga.
com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. A­­E­J­W
October - November 2018 49
 Nightlife
RUNCIS (TOMCAT)
The kind of place where you wish everybody knew your
name. It’s totally Latvian in its beer, food, and frequenters,
who are usually playing chess, playing cards and exchang-
ing anecdotes. If the thought of seeing another tourist
makes you queasy, head here to hide and enjoy some of
Old Riga’s cheapest beer. In short, it’s a place that most
women find boring and most men intriguing.QI‑2, Jāņa
sēta 1, tel. (+371) 29 26 37 11. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A­­J
TEX-MEX REPUBLIC (KLONDAIKA)
The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many
westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in
one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer,
head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled
the zelta raktuves (gold mines) or try the saloon-style res-
taurant and bar (food served 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
03:00). The Tex-Mex cuisine is just a couple of degrees shy
of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively cheap.QC‑4,
Dzirnavu 59, tel. (+371) 67 24 03 66, www.klondaika.
com. Open 24hrs. A­X­­W
VICTORY PUB
Although the sight of dark red walls and matching curtains
is reminiscent of either an English pub or a tart’s boudoir,
the staff is friendly and the food and drink is just fine. A
menu of British and international cuisine including steaks
and a cheap lunch special are available as well as a digital
jukebox, an arm wrestling table and a separate room with
a pool table and a dart board. A dozen or so different beers
can be had here for affordable prices and the Victory Pub
also has a large summer terrace, which is perfect for peo-
ple-watching in Old Riga.QI‑2, Tirgoņu 10, tel. (+371) 29
22 83 10, www.victorypub.lv. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu,
Sun 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. A­X­­J­W
MIDNIGHT MUNCHIES
FONTAINE DELISNACK RIGA
This ‘slow fast food’ joint serves up burgers, burritos and
pizzas, all cooked to order, plenty of space and friendly
service. Order burgers served in wax paper with a side
of fries and a cold brew in a laid-back Bohemian atmo-
sphere.QI‑2, Teātra 2, tel. (+371) 67 25 02 50, www.
fontaineriga.lv. Also at A-5, A. Briāna 9a, tel. (+371) 28
44 14 11. Open 24hrs. (€3 - 6). J­A­V­­S­W
PIZZA LULŪ
Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie can
be had here in a small, cosy restaurant. Ideal for pizza
on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or sat-
isfy your post-pub cravings at any hour of the night.
It also offers a 24-hour delivery service and sells beer
and wine in the wee hours of the morningQC‑4,
Blaumaņa 5a, tel. (+371) 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv.
Open 24hrs. A­V­­S
50 Riga In Your Pocket
SPORTS BARS
OLYBET SPORTS BAR
For those of you for whom a drink and a football match
on TV wouldn’t be complete without a friendly wager
to make 22 men running around on a grass field more
palatable, this is the place. OlyBet not only offers a wide
variety of brews and cocktails as well as flat screens
showing live sports, it also has a legal betting counter
where you drop some cash on your favourite event and
hope for a windfall. Slot machines are also available if the
match takes a turn for the worse.QC‑4, Barona 3, www.
olybetsportsbar.lv. Open open 24hrs. Open 24hrs.
Also at H-2, Meistaru 10; H-3, Raiņa bulvāris 15; F-3,
Elizabetes 55/ Brīvības 31; B-5, Brīvības 90; C-4, Marijas
12; D-4, Marijas 2. A­W
OPTIBET SPORTS BAR
This huge sports bar on three floors not only offers a
modern interior with loads of space for you and your
friends, but you can also legally bet on all of the live ac-
tion shown on countless TVs including massive projec-
tor screens on the first and second floors. An affordable
menu of omelettes, burgers, chicken wings, ribs and
pastas is an added bonus and although the beer selec-
tion could be a bit more imaginative, we’re certainly not
going to complain about a €3 half liter of Hoegaarden
or a local Mītava brew for only €1.90! An outdoor terrace
is also available upstairs.QB‑5, Barona 108, tel. (+371)
67 27 38 66, www.optibetsportabars.lv. Open 10:00 -
23:00. A­
PADDY WHELAN’S IRISH PUB & SPORTS BAR
Although it’s considered a traditional Irish pub it’s also a
sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life – namely
football and formula one. On the ground floor you can
expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different
matches, while upstairs you’ll find a cosier atmosphere
with loads of memorabilia on the walls including signed
football shirts. In addition to the usual Irish and interna-
tional pub food, Paddy’s also offers a menu of authentic In-
dian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor and a good weekday
lunch special for only €5.QI‑2, Grēcinieku 4, tel. (+371) 67
21 01 50, www.pub.lv. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 -
03:00. A­X­E­S­J
STUDENT BARS
LA BELLE ÉPOQUE (FRANČU BĀRS)
An unusual mix of teenage boys and girls and curious for-
eigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of
the incredibly cheap beer on draught. Although it often
looks like a mix between a high school dance and an all-
night rave with scant lighting and lots of bodily contact,
the barmen/chaperones encourage mingling with shots
of Absinthe and other hard alcohol.QI‑2, Mazā Jaunavu
8 (entrance from Mazā Monētu), tel. (+371) 67 39 96
75, www.frenchbar.lv. Open 17:00 - 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 07:00. A­J
riga.inyourpocket.com

Food is our passion
Beer is our obsession
Music is our true love
Sports is our madness
Irish joie de vivre in Riga since 1994!
GRĒCINIEKU IELA 4, OLD RIGA. OPEN DAILY 11-01, FRI, SAT 11-04. WWW.PUB.LV
WINE BARS
EASY WINE
Riga’s only self-service wine bar is much more stylish than
it sounds and its elevated tables for two (or eight) are of-
ten reserved on weekend nights. The concept is actually
a stroke of genius. Instead of waiting to be served, you’re
given a card which you insert in one of three large wine re-
frigerators. When you spot a bottle that interests you, take
a glass and press the desired amount of wine you’d like:
50, 100 or 150ml (prices are listed on the display screen
above each bottle). At the end of the night simply hand
in the card and pay what you owe. Mediterranean tapas,
antipasti, salads, pasta and some proper main courses are
also available. Sleek, trendy and, well… easy!QI‑2, Audēju
4, tel. (+371) 25 96 63 76, www.easywine.lv. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. A­­J­W
TINTO
Although this stylish wine bar with merlot coloured couches
and a large outdoor terrace offers great views of passers-by
on busy Elizabetes iela as well as the twisted bronze statues
of the Splendid Palace cinema next door, it’s tucked away
off of the street so you could pass by and never know it’s
there. Refined meat and seafood ishes are certainly tempt-
ing as are over 300 specially selected wines and spirits from
around the globe.QC‑4, Elizabetes 61, tel. (+371) 67 28 90
85, www.tinto.lv. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. A­
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Nightlife
VĪNA STUDIJA
Enjoy a reasonably priced glass, carafe or bottle of wine
in this refined, yet relaxed establishment in Riga’s art
nouveau district. If you can’t make up your mind, choose
one of the specials on the board, ask one of the knowl-
edgeable staff or trust in the judgement of leading wine
critics, whose ratings are published in the menu. Local
and world press is also available as well as Mediterranean
tapas and for a surcharge you can buy a bottle at its ad-
joining shop (10:00 - 22:00) and drink it in the bar.QB‑3,
Elizabetes 10, tel. (+371) 67 28 32 05, www.vinastudija.
lv. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. Also at C-5, Stabu 30, tel. (+371) 67 27 60 10.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. A­­S
LATVIA FACT #93
While many European nations cel-
ebrate Christian holidays, the Latvi-
ans also take time off to remember
their pagan roots. Midsummer’s
Eve or Līgo & Jāņi is an ancient fertility festival and a
two-day national holiday, which is celebrated with beer
and bonfires throughout the country every year from
June 23 - 24.
October - November 2018 51
 Sightseeing
Whether its medieval architecture and cobble stone streets
you’re after or extravagant Art Nouveau buildings and man-
icured 19th-century parks, Riga has plenty of visual stimu-
lation for all tastes. Explore what’s left of the city’s Soviet
legacy or take a tour of Riga Cathedral (Rīgas Doms), the
largest house of worship in the Baltics.
ESSENTIAL RIGA
ALBERTA IELA
Visit the biggest gallery of Art Nouveau architecture by
Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the illustrious
filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein who was born in Riga. Most of
the buildings have now been renovated and of particular
interest is the house at Strēlnieku 4a. Built in 1905 it has
since undergone a complete facelift and is now home to
the Stockholm School of Economics in Riga. Don’t miss
the Riga Art Nouveau Museum at the end of Alberta iela, a
must see.QB‑3, Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8, 13; Elizabetes 10a
& 10b; Strēlnieku 4a.
LATVIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
ETNOGRĀFISKAIS BRĪVDABAS MUZEJS)
Take the trip to the north
shore of Lake Jugla and you’ll
be rewarded with nearly 90
hectares of life as it used to
be. Farmsteads, windmills,
fishing villages, churches and
other historic structures have
been moved here from their
original locations through-
out the Latvian countryside
and preserved for posterity.
Watch craftsmen perform
various tasks or try some Latvian food and drink in the tav-
ern. Take bus N°1 from the corner of Merķeļa and Tērbatas
to the Brīvdabas muzejs stop. It’s also an easy 30-minute
bike ride from the centre or you can take tram N°6 to the
last stop and follow the bike path the rest of the way to the
museum.QBrīvdabas 21, tel. (+371) 67 99 41 06, www.
brivdabasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: €2
(October - April). K
KALNCIEMS MARKET
The thoroughfare on the other side of the Vanšu bridge
is a treasure trove of 19th-century wooden architec-
ture including the beautiful buildings at the corner of
Melnsila and Kalnciema iela which now host a bustling
fair every Saturday from 10:00 - 16:00 that attracts
visitors from around Riga. Although the theme chang-
es from fair to fair, you can expect plenty of food and
drink, Latvian crafts, fashion by local designers and a
lively atmosphere. Take tram No.4 from Grēcinieku iela
to the Kalnciema iela stop.QD‑1, Kalnciema 35, tel.
(+371) 26 25 51 48, www.kalnciemaiela.lv.
52 Riga In Your Pocket
CANAL BOATS
Weather permitting, canal boats usually continue fer-
rying passengers about the city until mid-November.
Canal boats Climb aboard
a unique 100-year-old
wooden launch (or a replica)
and take a one-hour tour
of the city from an unusual
perspective - the Riga Canal
and Daugava river. You can
start your journey at Bastion
Hill and the boat trip takes an
hour before it returns to your
original embarkation point.
QG‑2, Bastejkalns, tel. (+371) 25 91 15 23, www.
rigabycanal.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (until October
10), 10:00 - 18:00 afterward. Tickets: adults €18,
children (5 - 14) €9, children under 5 free.
RIGA CATHEDRAL (DOMA BAZNĪCA)
The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187
x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Riga Cathedral also has
one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,718 pipes!). It was
such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece
of music in its honour. The drop from Cathedral Square
(Doma laukums) to the church’s base shows how the level
of the city has risen in the eight centuries since its founda-
tions were laid on the site of a Livonian fishing village in
1211. Although currently undergoing renovations, it’s still
open to the public. The price of the ticket also includes
access to its Romanesque cloister.QH‑1, Doma laukums,
tel. (+371) 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. Open 10:00 -
17:00. Admission: €3. A
ST. PETER’S CHURCH
(PĒTERBAZNĪCA)
First mentioned in ancient
chronicles in 1209, St. Peter’s
was a Catholic church until
1523, when it turned Lutheran.
Its wooden tower, the high-
est in Europe at that time, was
destroyed several times. It first
collapsed in 1666 and was re-
built a year later. To see how long it would last, the build-
ers hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel
broke into, the greater the tower’s longevity. Alas, a pile of
straw cushioned the glass’ fall and the spire burnt down
one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again
in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual
was repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift
to the observation platform for spectacular views of the
city.QI‑2, Reformācijas laukums 1, tel. (+371) 67 18 14
30, www.peterbaznica.riga.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: church, exhibi-
tions & tower €9 (tickets on sale until 17:00).
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
THE MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION OF LATVIA
(1940 - 1991) (LATVIJAS OKUPĀCIJAS MUZEJS)
This museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet oc-
cupations of Latvia is now located in the former US
embassy on Raiņa bulvāris.The various exhibits display
the atrocities committed against the people of Latvia
and the systematic destruction of their nation’s sov-
ereignty. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the intoler-
able living conditions of Siberian labour camps and
see firsthand how Latvians managed to keep their
spirits up in this frozen wasteland. Exhibits are avail-
able in English and Latvian, but you can also take a
guided tour of the museum in four languages.QG‑2,
Raiņa bulvāris 7, tel. (+371) 67 21 27 15, www.
okupacijasmuzejs.lv. Open 11:00 - 17:00 (October -
April). Admission: donations.

CHURCHES
ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL (PAREIZTICĪGO
KATEDRĀLE)
Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church
capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a plan-
etarium during the occupation but was finally returned to
its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of
the church’s ornate works of art including wall and ceil-
ing frescoes by the famous Russian painter Vereshchagin.
Much of the cathedral has now been restored to its former
glory.QG‑3, Brīvības 23, tel. (+371) 67 21 12 16, www.
pravoslavie.lv.

ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL (JĒKABA KATEDRĀLE)

This church beside the parliament was first mentioned
in historical sources in 1225. In 1522, it became the first
church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but 60 years
later during a brief spell under Polish rule it was returned
to its Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. It’s also
interesting to note that St. James was one of the first three
churches built in Riga and unlike Riga Cathedral and St.
Peter’s where mass was held in German, it held services in
Latvian until the Reformation.QH‑1, Jēkaba 9, tel. (+371)
67 32 64 19, www.jekabakatedrale.lv. Open 07:00 -
19:00. The cathedral is closed 13:00 - 14:30, except
Sundays.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH (JĀŅA BAZNĪCA)

First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel
of a Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were
closed during the Reformation in 1523. The building
was used for a time as the city’s armoury, until it was
taken over by a Lutheran congregation in 1582. During
the building’s construction two monks were bricked
into the southern wall and lived out their lives there,
fed through the window grate. In the summer months
organ and vocal music concerts are held here every
Saturday at 17:00, which are open to the public.QI‑2,
Skārņu 24, tel. (+371) 67 22 40 28, www.janabaznica.
lv. Open 11:00 - 20:00 (closed during private ceremo-
nies such as weddings, etc.).
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket October - November 2018 53
 Sightseeing
JEWISH RIGA
JEWS IN LATVIA MUSEUM (EBREJI LATVJIĀ)
Located on the third floor of the Riga Jewish Community
centre, this small, yet informative museum documents,
in Latvian and English, the history of Jewish life in Latvia
beginning with the 16th century. Visitors can discover the
important role Jews played in Latvian society and the con-
tributions they made to intellectual life, the arts and even
sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the
suffering Jews experienced at the hands of the Nazis and
Soviets. The museum hosts a number of events including
lectures, seminars and exhibitions. Audio guides are avail-
able in English, Latvian and Russian.QC‑4, Skolas 6, tel.
(+371) 67 28 34 84, www.jewishmuseum.lv. Open 11:00
- 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission: donations.
RIGA SYNAGOGUE (PEITAV SHUL)
Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house
and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong com-
munity. Although it was used as a warehouse during the
Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were
hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the build-
ing was not burned to the ground as others had been due
to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga.QI‑2,
Peitavas 6/8, tel. (+371) 67 20 40 22. Open 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat. Admission: donations.
INDEPENDENCE DAY
On November 18, 1918, a
group of Latvian intelligent-
sia declared their nation’s
independence from the
disintegrating Russian Em-
pire. Dominated by foreign
powers since the arrival of
Teutonic knights at the end
of the 12th century, Latvians
finally had their own state.
Unfortunately, rogue Ger-
man military units and the
new Bolshevik government in Russia didn’t take the
declaration seriously and fighting continued until, with
the help of Polish and Estonian armies and even Brit-
ish warships, all of Latvia’s foes were expelled from the
country in 1920. Independence Day is celebrated
with various events and concerts in Riga, the laying
of flowers and speeches at the Freedom Monument, a
military parade on 11.novembra krastmala in the after-
noon around 13:30, fireworks at night and, of course,
the Staro Rīga Light Festival (see p.55). This year’s fes-
tivities will take place on a Sunday which means that
November 19 will also be an official holiday. Public
transport will be free of charge on the 18th as an added
incentive to participate in all the events. For a full list of
events visit www.lv100.lv
54 Riga In Your Pocket
Fountain in the gardens of the National Opera M.Zaprauskis
ŽANIS LIPKE MEMORIAL MUSEUM
This modern, interactive museum designed by a promi-
nent local architect tells the little-known tale of Žanis
Lipke and the network of roughly 25 people that created
an ‘underground railroad’ of sorts to save Jews from the
Nazis during the German occupation of Latvia. Not only
did he hide people in a bunker on his own land that now
hosts this museum, but he and his colleagues also helped
Jews to escape local ghettoes and then transported them
to safe houses around the country. Although Mr. Lipke and
his wife Johanna survived this noble undertaking, other
members of the underground were caught and killed.
A free audio guide will help you navigate the half light
of the museum, which is left intentionally dark to mimic
the conditions endured by families hiding in bunkers and
warehouses.QC‑2, Mazais Balasta dambis 8, tel. (+371)
67 20 25 39, www.lipke.lv. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: donations.
MUSEUMS
ALDARIS BEER MUSEUM (ALDARA ALUS
DARBNĪCA)
Latvia’s most iconic beer brand began its storied existence
in the middle of the 19th-century and this modern mu-
seum housed in one of its original brick buildings traces
the history of Aldaris from its founding to the current day.
Put on a white lab coat and take a stroll amongst antique
photographs, copper beer vats from the 1930s and infor-
mative displays of the hallowed brewing process. You can
also take a look at the real thing as Aldaris beers are still
brewed on the premises just behind the glass wall. Fin-
ish your experience with a brew in the lovely tasting room
that also boasts a ‘periodic table of beer’ that includes an
example of every type of beer brewed around the globe.
Although the entrance fee may be steep, you can buy
beers in the tasting room for ridiculously low prices. Take
tram No.5 to the Gaujienas iela stop and walk down
Gaujienas to Tvaika iela.QTvaika 44, tel. (+371) 67 21 84
44, www.alusdarbnica.lv. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission: €9 (includes two small
tasting beer), children under 18 free with a parent.
riga.inyourpocket.com

LAIMA CHOCOLATE MUSEUM (LAIMAS
ŠOKOLĀDES MUZEJS)
Latvia’s largest chocolate producer has opened up a fun
and fascinating interactive museum in its historic prem-
ises on Miera Street. After registering and receiving your
QR-coded admission ticket you can proceed into a num-
ber of different exhibits that trace the long history of
the company whose traditions date back to 1870. Watch
videos about the history of chocolate making or see how
Laima produces some of its most delicious treats. You
can also create your own chocolate video or have a per-
sonalised message printed on a chocolate bar to give as
a gift to a friend (or yourself). An adjoining Laima shop
and café is also available and if you book well in advance
you can also join a creative workshop and make your own
chocolates!QB‑5, Miera 22, tel. (+371) 66 15 47 77, www.
laimasokoladesmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: adults €7, children €3 - 5.
LATVIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART (LATVI-
JAS NACIONĀLAIS MĀKSLAS MUZEJS)
After a three-year, €31 million expansion and renovation,
the Latvian National Museum of Art has finally opened its
doors again. View classic paintings, drawings, watercolours
and sculptures by the Latvian masters Purvītis, Rozentāls,
Annuss, Valters, Padegs, Liberts and many more. The
100-year-old interior has been completely restored and up-
graded with new underground art space, not to mention a
charming restaurant.QF‑3, Jaņa Rozentāla laukums 1, tel.
(+371) 67 32 44 61, www.lnmm.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion: museum €3, exhibitions €3.50, combined tikcet €6;
smart phone or tablet audio guide app free. A
LATVIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM (LATVIJAS
DZELZCEĻA MUZEJS)
Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum
run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzceļš). Inside the brick
hangar you’ll find old photographs, antiquated machines
and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside you view
the largest collection of rolling stock in the Baltics which
includes a restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives
built in Ukraine and Russia as well as a German locomo-
tive built in 1942 that no doubt became a spoil of war.
Don’t miss the Tsarist era prison car.QE‑2, Uzvaras 2/4,
tel. (+371) 67 23 28 49, www.railwaymuseum.lv. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Ad-
mission: adults €2.50, children free. A­L­W
LATVIA FACT #94
Latvia’s oldest fully-functioning
church is located not far from the
scenic town of Sigulda. Krimulda
Church was built in 1205 when the
Livonian chieftain Kaupo returned from Rome with a gift
of 100 pieces of gold from Pope Innocent III.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Sightseeing
STARO RĪGA LIGHT FEST
Every year around Latvia’s
independence day fes-
tivities in November, Riga
puts on an amazing light
festival for a few nights
which is seen by tens
of thousands of people.
Dozens of buildings and
landmarks throughout the
city are illuminated with
photographs, games, films
and other artistic creations and the old town is usu-
ally flooded with people. The atmosphere is definitely
festive and it’s a great night out for families, groups
of friends or individuals who’d like to catch a glimpse
of something unique. This year’s celebration will be-
gin on November 16 and will be visible every night
through November 19. For more information about
light installations and specific routes around the city
visit www.staroriga.lv.
LATVIAN SPORTS MUSEUM (SPORTA MUZEJS)
This small museum housed in an historic medieval build-
ing traces the evolution of Latvian sport from the late
19th-century when cycling, swimming and wrestling
were all the rage to the present day when hockey and
other winter activities seem to dominate. Look at black
and white photos, old medals, posters from the 1930s and
some truly interesting memorabilia like world champion
Uljana Semjonova’s enormous (men’s US 21/EU 58) basket-
ball shoes! QI‑2, Alksnāja 9, tel. (+371) 67 22 51 27, www.
sportamuzejs.lv. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: €0.71.
MENTZENDORFF’S HOUSE (MENCENDORFA NAMS)
For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that
once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must. Re-
stored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true medieval
atmosphere are all here for your perusal. Not only can you
see how the medieval rich lived in their fine apartments,
but also how the servants toiled in the massive kitchen
area. Guided tours are available for €10.QI‑2, Grēcinieku
18, tel. (+371) 67 21 29 51, www.mencendorfanams.
com. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: €3.
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS & DESIGN
Latvian textiles, ceramics as well as glass, wood, leather
and metal work are all housed in this gallery/museum. For-
merly St. George’s church, it’s the oldest surviving stone
building in Riga and dates back to the 13th century. You
can also purchase Latvian National Art Museum souvenirs
and books at its shop. QI‑2, Skārņu 10/20, tel. (+371) 67
22 22 35, www.lnmm.lv/en/mdad. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: museum
€2.50, exhibitions €3.50, combined ticket €5.
October - November 2018 55
 Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF RIGA’S HISTORY AND NAVIGA-
TION (RĪGAS VĒSTURES UN KUĢNIECĪBAS
MUZEJS)
Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the
first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia
and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days
of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays
Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as
the sword used by Riga’s executioner in the 16th century
and the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can
also take a peek at Riga Cathedral’s courtyard, which is
also open to the public, from upstairs.QH/I‑1, Palasta 4,
tel. (+371) 67 35 66 76, ​w ww.rigamuz.lv. Open 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: adults €5, family
ticket €7.
MUSEUM OF ROMANS SUTA AND ALEKSANDRA
BEĻCOVA (ROMANA SUTAS UN ALEKSANDRAS
BEĻCOVAS MUZEJS)
Head into the courtyard and take the stairs to the fifth floor
to find this small, yet fascinating museum dedicated to a
husband and wife that produced a wide variety of interest-
ing art in the 1920s and 1930s. Romans Suta painted com-
mon scenes such as pub life, but is perhaps best known
for his contribution to the world of design having created
film sets, fashion and porcelain flatware. His wife Aleksan-
dra was an accomplished painter who specialised in por-
traits. You can see period furniture, paintings, sketches and
memorabilia in this restored apartment where they once
lived.QC‑4, Elizabetes 57a - 26, tel. (+371) 67 28 88 00,
www.lnmm.lv/lv/sbm. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: €2.
20TH-CENTURY PORTRAITS
This far-reaching exhibition
in honour of Latvia’s cen-
tenary covers 100 years of
portraiture in Latvia in three
different locations. The
Latvian National Museum
of Art (F-3, Jaņa Rozentāla
laukums 1) will display the best portraits from the
first half of the 20th century including works by lead-
ing lights Janis Rozentāls, Valdemārs Tone, Ludolfs
Liberts and others, while the Arsenāls Exhibition Hall
(H-1, Torņa 1) will exhibit works from the second half
of the century by artists like Džemma Skulme, Mi-
ervaldis Polis, Maija Tabaka and Kārlis Baumanis, to
name a few. The third part of the exhibition dedicated
to caricatures will be available at the Museum of Ro-
mans Suta and Aleksandra Beļcova (C-4, Elizabetes
57a - 26). Portrait Painting in Latvia. 20th Century.
Facial Expression will be available at all of the above-
mentioned venues from November 3 - February 24.
Image: Portrait of the poet Imants Ziedonis (1966) by
Biruta Baumane (1922–2017) courtesy of the LNMM
- www.lnmm.lv.
56 Riga In Your Pocket
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LATVIA (LAT-
VIJAS NACIONĀLAIS VĒSTURES MUZEJS)
This monumental building a stone’s throw from the Free-
dom Monument is the temporary home of the Latvian His-
tory Museum until it returns to its original location at Riga
Castle. Three floors of artefacts from the Stone Age to the
present day await your perusal as well as temporary and
permanent exhibitions such as Latvia’s Century in honour
of the nation’s centenary and  Money in Latvia, which is
an absolute must for numismatists. View ancient weapons,
jewellery and other treasures discovered at archaeological
sites, as well 19th-century farming implements, historic
folk costumes and an entire hall dedicated to wooden
religious sculptures that have been preserved for poster-
ity. Four rooms with period furniture also recreate typi-
cal apartments during the Biedermeier, Art Nouveau, Art
Deco and Soviet eras of design in Riga. Some interactive
exhibits and films are also available in English and you can
buy books and souvenirs at its gift shop.QG‑3, Brīvības
bulvāris 32, tel. (+371) 67 22 13 57, www.lnvm.lv. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults €3; family
ticket €4.
RIGA ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM (RĪGAS
JŪGENDSTILA MUZEJS)
This museum is housed in an apartment where one of Lat-
via’s best art nouveau architects once lived – Konstantīns
Pēkšēns. The prolific artist and engineer who was respon-
sible for the creation of no less than 250 buildings in Riga
also designed this impressive edifice. The historic house
was also home to the illustrious painter Janis Rozentāls
and the writer Rūdolfs Blaumanis to whom another muse-
um is dedicated on the top floor. View period furniture and
artwork from one of the Latvian capital’s most creative
eras. A must see. Don’t miss the grand staircase!QB‑3, Al-
berta 12, tel. (+371) 67 18 14 65, www.jugendstils.riga.
lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults
€6 - 9, children under 7 free.
RIGA BOURSE ART MUSEUM (MĀKSLAS
MUZEJS RĪGAS BIRŽA)
Inside the former Riga Stock Exchange you’ll find an ex-
cellent collection of 17th-century Chinese, Japanese and
Delft Blue porcelain from the Netherlands, three centuries
of silverware from the Baltics, Russia and Germany as well
as some lesser-known, but no less impressive paintings
by Dutch masters of the Golden Era. Although the light-
ing could be better in the main hall, you can find some
real gems in the exhibit of paintings including a winter
landscape by Monet and a bronze of lovers by Rodin. An
Eastern gallery is also available, which includes everything
from Egyptian mummies to priceless Southeast Asian ar-
tefacts. If you’re curious about the ugly brown hue of the
building, it’s supposedly the original colour of the monu-
mental Venetian Palazzo style edifice when it was unveiled
in 1855.QH‑1, Doma laukums 6, tel. (+371) 67 22 64 67,
www.lnmm.lv/lv/mmrb. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: museum €3, exhibitions
€3.50, combined ticket €6; audio guide €5. A­W
riga.inyourpocket.com

PLACES OF INTEREST
CASTLE OF LIGHT - NATIONAL LIBRARY (GAIS-
MAS PILS - NACIONĀLĀ BIBLIOTĒKA)
The Latvian National Library is the brainchild of American-
Latvian architect Gunnar Birkerts, who is perhaps best
known for his creations in the United States. Its shape is
a symbolic expression of the Hill of Glass and the Castle of
Light found in Latvian folklore. Legend has it that the Cas-
tle of Light sank into an ancient lake and would only arise
from the depths when Latvians were once again masters
of their own land. The building is open to the public and it
hosts a variety of exhibitions, concerts and events. You can
take a guided tour of the building, which allows you ac-
cess to the top floor, or just get a visitor’s pass and wander
around for spectacular views of Old Riga across the river.
For tours call tel. (+371) 22 02 29 20.QE‑3, Mūkusalas 3,
tel. (+371) 67 80 61 10, www.lnb.lv. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. W­K
LATVIA FACT #95
The famous Russian filmmaker Sergei
Eisenstein (1898-1948) who directed
such masterpieces of cinema as Bat-
tleship Potemkin (1925) was born in
Riga. His father Mikhail Eisenstein (1867-1920) designed
many of Riga’s most beautiful art nouveau buildings.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Sightseeing
CENTRAL MARKET (CENTRĀLTIRGUS)
When construction was completed in 1930, Riga’s Central
Market was one of the largest and most modern market-
places on the European continent. Nearly 90 years later,
four of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin
hangars during WWI, still serve their original function as
meat, fish, produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmo-
sphere also hasn’t changed much, although most of the
hawkers are more reluctant to haggle than in the past.
The markets spill out beyond the confines of the hangars
and operate throughout the day, some longer than others.
Each pavilion has slightly different opening hours.QJ‑3,
Centrāltirgus iela, www.rct.lv. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
HOUSE OF BLACKHEADS (MELNGALVJU NAMS)
One of Riga’s architectural treasures, the House of Black-
heads was erected in 1344, but was embellished and
expanded in the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries. It was de-
stroyed in 1941 and its ruins were completely demolished
by the Soviets in 1948, but it finally rose from the ashes in
the late 1990s in keeping with the medieval saying above
its entrance that states ‘if I should fall, build me again’. A
striking Gothic building with a Dutch Renaissance facade,
it was used to house single members of the merchants’
guild who were also notorious revellers of their day. It’s
even rumoured that their parties and feasts were often at-
tended by European royalty in disguise.QI‑2, Rātslaukums
7, tel. (+371) 67 04 36 78, www.melngalvjunams.lv.
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €6 (tickets
on sale until 17:00); guided tours €15.
October - November 2018 57
 Sightseeing
HIKING IN ĶEMERI
Although most tourists rarely venture out this far, the
wildlife reserve and national park at Ķemeri is one of
Latvia’s most impressive natural treasures. Its ancient
raised bogs, swamps, forests and lakes were created
roughly 8,000 years ago when the sea retreated to its
current position. It’s only an hour train ride from Riga.
A vast network of wooden boardwalks and nature
paths traverse the park making for a pleasant walk
or a rigorous 12km hike depending on your level of
physical fitness and desire to experience nature in its
nearly virgin state.
The easiest and most popu-
lar trail is the Raised Bog
Trail (Lielā Ķemeru tīreļa
taka), which is an easy 3km
hike from the Ķemeri train
station. Simply cross the
tracks to the left, take the
road leading away from
the station and the town
and then follow signs for
the trail. You’ll cross a high-
way and then pass a cemetery in a pine forest before
reaching the entrance to the park, which you’ll recog-
nise when you spot a large map of the area and two
public toilets. A recently refurbished 3km boardwalk
takes you through a picturesque landscape of stunted
trees, red sphagnum moss and dark pools of water
at this raised bog. An observation tower located in
the middle of the boardwalk affords visitors fantastic
views of this natural wonder. For a map of the area
visit www.kemerunacionalaisparks.lv/images/files/
Kemeru%20karte%202015%20UK%20int.pdf
Birdwatchers, however,
might prefer the Lake Sloka
Trail (Slokas ezera taka)
which can be found roughly
3.8km northwest of the
Ķemeri station down Emīla
Dārziņa iela and Tūristu iela.
Follow signs for the ‘Slokas
ezera taka’. The actual trail
and boardwalk is just over
3km long and takes you
along the lake and also includes a 7m-tall bird watch-
ing tower located on a floating platform on the water.
Admission to the park is free, but bear in mind that
parts of this trail can be flooded after intense autumn
rains and some of the boardwalk is in poor condition,
so dress accordingly. We do, however, recommend you
download a free map of the area with extra information
in English at www.kemerunacionalaisparks.lv/images/
files/SlokaENw.pdf
58 Riga In Your Pocket
LAIMA CLOCK (LAIMAS PULKSTENIS)
Satiekamies pie Laimas pulksteņa - let’s meet at the
Laima clock! The brown clock in front of the Freedom
Monument has been a meeting place since it was erected
in 1924,. For decades it has advertised Laima chocolate,
and many a sweet romance has started here. The famous
clock was renovated at the end of 2017 and now also in-
cludes a digital countdown clock to Latvia’s centenary
on November 18, 2018. It also plays one of Latvian maestro
Raimonds Pauls’ sugary tunes every hour.QH‑2, Where
Brīvības and Aspazijas meet.
OLD CITY WALLS & SWEDISH GATE
(VECPILSĒTAS MŪRIS & ZVIEDRU VĀRTI)
This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifi-
cations, the rest having been progressively knocked down
because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was
built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored
during Soviet times, hence its rather ‘new’ appearance.
At the end of Aldaru, is the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārti),
built in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavians’ occupation
of the city, and the only such structure left in Old Riga.
The apartment above belonged to the city executioner or
bende, who would put a red rose on the window ledge on
the morning before a head rolled.QH‑2, At the corner of
Torņa and Aldaru.
POWDER TOWER (PULVERTORNIS)
Dating back to the beginning of the 14th century, only the
rock foundations remained after it was destroyed by in-
vading Swedish troops in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1650 with
2.5m thick walls to protect its valuable contents inside and
was obviously successful. At the end of the 19th century a
German student fraternity bought the building, but today
it’s part of the War Museum.QH‑2, Smilšu 20.
RIGA CASTLE (RĪGAS PILS)
Built in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle
was destroyed several times during battles with the local
townspeople. After the Order’s destruction, the various
occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Lat-
via’s first post-Cold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it
his official office to continue the tradition begun by Lat-
via’s interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s.QH‑1, Pils
laukums 3.
RIGA NATIONAL ZOO (RĪGAS ZOOLOĢISKAIS
DĀRZS)
Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the
globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese
macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers,
giraffes and hippopotami, Asian red pandas and Europe-
an bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch
tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and
insects. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mežaparks
stop.QMeža prospekts 1, tel. (+371) 67 51 84 09, www.
rigazoo.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission (tickets on
sale until 18:00): adults €7, children 4 - 18 years €5, free
for children under four.
riga.inyourpocket.com

SOVIET RIGA
LATVIAN RIFLEMEN MONUMENT (STRĒLNIEKU
PIEMINEKLIS)
In the centre of Old Riga stands a controversial red gran-
ite statue that was originally dedicated to the Latvian Red
Riflemen, some of whom became Lenin’s personal body-
guards. Some view the monument as a symbol of the old
communist system and would love to tear it down. Others
believe it’s a necessary tribute to Latvians who fought in
the early years of WWI. It now honours all Latvian riflemen,
both Whites and Reds. Politics aside, it’s an impressive
monument.QJ‑1, Strēlnieku laukums.
SOVIET VICTORY MONUMENT (UZVARAS
PIEMINEKLIS)
The Soviet war memorial which commemorates the sup-
posed communist ‘liberation’ of Riga is the place to meet
die hard reds on Soviet anniversary days. Built in 1985 to
lionise the Red Army and to dishearten and annoy the Lat-
vian populace, the monument consists of a tall concrete
obelisk adorned with five golden stars symbolising the
five years of WWII. On either side are bronze statues of
Mother Russia and soldiers advancing with their weapons
raised. Dozens of hectares of parkland surround this shrine
to former Soviet glory. Take tram N°1 from Kr. Barona to the
second stop (Slokas iela) over the Akmens Bridge.QE‑2,
Over the Akmens Bridge in Pārdaugava.
STATUES & MONUMENTS
BIG CHRISTOPHER (LIELAIS KRISTAPS)
Big Christopher, the city’s protector from floods and other
natural disasters, first appeared in the 16th century. Leg-
end says that one day after returning home from carry-
ing the Christ child across the deep waters of the river,
the humble giant found a pile of gold which he used to
build Riga. For centuries he has been a symbol of the city,
and its inhabitants paid tribute to him with flowers and
lit candles, asking for his blessing before embarking on
a long journey. Big Christopher was moved to the safety
of the Museum of Riga’s History and Navigation. Today, a
replica stands in a small glass structure on the bank of the
Daugava, so he might once again greet seafaring visitors
and keep a close watch over the city he built.QC‑3, Where
Poļu gāte and 11. novembra krastmala meet.
FREEDOM MONUMENT (BRĪVĪBAS PIEMINEKLIS)
‘Milda,’ as she is affectionately known, was unveiled in 1935
and is a national shrine for Latvians. Designed by Kārlis Zāle,
the friezes around the base of the sculpture depict Latvians
singing, working and fighting for their freedom, while the
three stars in the maiden’s hands represent the three histori-
cal regions of the country: Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale.
Locals are always placing flowers at the base of the monu-
ment, an act for which people were deported to Siberia in
Soviet times. An honour guard changes every hour on the
hour from 09:00 - 18:00. They also ‘stretch their legs’ every
half hour.QH‑3, Where Brīvības and Raiņa meet.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Sightseeing
BALTIC OAKS
Everyone interested in art knows that some of the
world’s best landscapes, portraits and still lifes were
painted by the so-called Dutch and Flemish old mas-
ters. However, you may be surprised to learn that many
of Latvia’s museums have amassed a large collection
of these works over the past 200 years, many of which
now belong to the Riga Bourse Art Museum (H-1,
Doma laukums 6, www.lnmm.lv; closed Mon) where
you can visit an exhibition entitled Baltic Oaks. 16th
and 17th-century Dutch and Flemish Painting in the
Collection of the Latvian National Museum of Art un-
til November 30. What’s even more interesting is that
many of these masterpieces were painted on wooden
panels made from Baltic oaks. In the 16th and 17th cen-
turies, the ports of Riga, Liepāja and Ventspils exported
high-quality timber to the Netherlands, which eventu-
ally served as the foundation for some of the world’s
greatest paintings. This has now been confirmed with
DNA testing with the aid of the Dutch and Flemish art
curator’s council or CODART and the Netherlands Insti-
tute of Art History. Another parallel exhibition entitled
The Golden Age of Etching will also display the mu-
seum’s collection of exquisite etchings from this period
including works by such luminaries as Rembrandt. Tick-
ets: €3.50. Image: River Landscape (1642) by Salomon
van Ruysdael (c.1600–1670). The exhibitions are dedi-
cated to Latvia’s centenary.
STREET ART
MOSCOW DISTRICT BRIDGE
Some of our favourite examples of street art can be found
under the bridges where Elijas, Maskavas and Lāčplēša
steets meet. It’s an easy walk or bike ride from the Cen-
tral Market or you can simply take tram No.7 or 9 to the
Elijas iela stop, but bear in mind that there’s lots of car
and tram traffic here, so stick to the sidewalks to be safe.
Here you’ll find cityscapes, a DJ spinning records, a local
beauty casually hanging out, what appears to be a hard-
luck drunk sitting on the roof of an old wooden building
and lots more.QE‑5, Elijas, Maskavas & Lāčplēša streets.
Nearby sights: Central Market, Warehouse District and
Riga Ghetto Museum.
October - November 2018 59
 Shopping
Prices of imported goods in Latvia tend to be inexplicably
high, but local crafts, food and alcohol are still relatively
cheap. Shops are scattered throughout Riga, but the high-
est concentration can be found in the Old Town and the
city centre. Several big, shiny shopping centres are also
available and they’re also open on Sundays. Many more
shop reviews can be found at riga.inyourpocket.com.
ALCOHOL & BEER
SPIRITS & WINE
This huge discount beer, wine and liquor warehouse is pop-
ular with frugal Rigans and Scandinavian ferry passengers
desperate to buy alcohol for reasonable prices.QB‑2, An-
drejostas 4, tel. (+371) 27 86 78 07, www.spiritsandwine.
lv. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
ANTIQUES
RARITĀTE
Icons, Riga porcelain, paintings, coins, stamps, silverware
and furniture.QC‑5, Čaka 45, tel. (+371) 67 27 43 32.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
VOLMAR
Paintings, religious icons, porcelain, memorabilia and
much more.QI‑1, Krāmu 4, tel. (+371) 67 21 42 78. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
BOOKS
JĀŅA SĒTA
Latvia’s largest selection of maps and travel books. Also
sells replica antique maps of Riga as well as Soviet-era mili-
tary maps of world cities in Russian.QC‑4, Elizabetes 85A,
tel. (+371) 67 24 08 94, w ​ ww.mapshop.lv. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
VALTERS UN RAPA
This book shop on three floors is probably the biggest in
the Baltics. Mostly Latvian and Russian books, as well as
local maps and guides like this one and some literature in
English and German.QH‑3, Aspazijas 24, tel. (+371) 67 22
74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
LATVIA FACT #96
Riga has an odd connection to
one of the 20th century’s most in-
famous and enigmatic charlatans.
In her private correspondence with
Tsar Nicholas II in 1915, Empress Al-
exandra implored her husband to listen to the emphat-
ic counsel of Rasputin, who claimed that the tsar could
avoid massive bloodshed by sending troops to Riga. He
had apparently seen it in a vision. Oddly enough, the
former German princess and the last Russian emperor
communicated in English.
60 Riga In Your Pocket
Food and fashion at the Kalnciems Market every Saturday (see p.52)
FASHION
BRANCHESS
Although this chain of Latvian clothing and accessories
stores offers a number of different outlets around the
country, its flagship department store on two floors is
available right on the city centre’s main shopping street.
Branchess specialises in both men’s and women’s fashion
from dresses, skirts and evening wear to suits, ties, jeans
and other stylish, yet affordable clothing all made right
here in Latvia. Don’t settle for a cheap souvenir. Bring
home a unique piece of local fashion!QC‑4, Tērbatas
40, tel. (+371) 26 62 94 74, www.branchess.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
ITK
This trendy shop specialises in contemporary fashion and
accessories for men by the biggest names in the business
from Adidas, Nike, Comme de Garsons and A.P.C. to Ralph
Lauren, Champion, Tommy Hilfiger and Gosha Rubchins-
kiy, to name just a few of its carefully curated collections.
Find the perfect hoodie, sneakers, jeans, backpack or other
essential apparel only a few steps from the Freedom Mon-
ument.QH‑2, Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica bulvāris 18, tel.
(+371) 67 67 15 05, www.itkkit.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A­J
FLOWERS
FLOWER MARKET
The biggest market for flowers from near and far has been
given a shiny new glass home at its usual location on
Tērbatas.QG‑3, Tērbatas 2a. Open 24hrs.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
BALTU ROTAS (TORNIS)
Ancient Baltic designs as well as modern pieces can all
be found here. It also offers a small museum dedicated
to Latvian jewellery which includes both replicas and
original artefacts from 10th-century archaeological digs.
QI‑2, Grēcinieku 11-2 (entrance from Pēterbaznīcas),
tel. (+371) 67 22 02 70, www.balturotas.lv. Open 10:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun. A
riga.inyourpocket.com

LOCAL WINE & WOOD
This charming shop sells exactly what it promises: wooden
plates, spoons and other items made by local craftsmen
as well as its speciality, a wide variety of Latvian fruit and
berry wines made at the Līgatne winery. You can also have
a seat and enjoy a glass on the premises.QI‑3, Vaļņu 39,
tel. (+371) 26 52 14 67, www.ligatnesvinadaritava.lv.
Open 10:00-20:00. A­J
JEWELLERY
GALLERY PUTTI
This gallery specialises in high-end jewellery and wearable
art by local and international designers.QI‑2, Peitavas 5
- 31 (entrance from Mārstaļu), tel. (+371) 67 21 42 29,
www.putti.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. A
SHOPPING CENTRES
SKY & MORE
This huge shopping centre offers high-end shops selling all
of the biggest names in fashion as well as a number of good
dining options and an excellent supermarket (09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00). You can leave your children in a super-
vised playground and there’s even a special place to ‘walk’
your dog. Take trolleybus No.3 from Kr.Valdemāra to the
Ozolaine/Jūras medicīnas centrs stop or take a quick cab ride.
QDuntes 19a, tel. (+371) 67 85 34 24, www.skyandmore.
lv. Open 10:00-21:00. A­P­T­L­6­W­K
SUPERMARKETS
STOCKMANN
The deli counter is fantastic and the meat section actually
offers real cuts of beef including steaks. It also stocks prod-
ucts you won’t find anywhere else in Riga like Pepperidge
Farm cookies and Betty Crocker cake and brownie mix.
QI‑3, 13. janvāra 8, www.stockmann.lv. Open 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A
VINTAGE SHOPS
OTRĀ ELPA (SECOND WIND)
This shop sells second hand clothes, electronics, toys, board
games, LPs, DVDs, books (some even in English) and lots of
other stuff that people have donated. Proceeds go to local
charities.QC‑4, Marijas 13 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 27 73
03 02, www.otraelpa.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-5, Stabu 35. A
WINE SHOPS
ERVINS & FILLES
This family-owned shop specialises in French boutique
wines and Champagne for all budgets.QC‑4, Dzir-
navu 84 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 29 26 66 40, www.
ervinsetfilles.wordpress.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Shopping
WHAT TO BUY IN RIGA
Amber The petrified sap isn’t as plentiful as it is in
Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Lat-
vian beaches. It’s sold in all souvenir shops and there
are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peter’s Church and
on Līvu laukums.
Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a
screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, post-
cards, ceramic dishes, books and plaster busts based
on beautiful heads seen on the city’s best early 20th-
century facades at Art Nouveau Riga (B-3, Strēlnieku 9).
Honey The Latvians revere their honey (medus) like
the French do their wine and even claim that it has
healing properties so taste some for free at The Honey
Room (I-2, Pēterbaznīcas 17. Open 10:00 - 19:00).
Local food The following can be found in any su-
permarket: Latvian sourdough (saldskābmaize) bread
is delicious and easily transported. Latvian smoked
cheese, carraway seed cheese and the Talsu ritulis
marinated in herbs are all classic cheeses worth taking
home. Sprats (šprotes) in oil, similar to sardines, are the
perfect snack to go with the Latvian vodka you bought.
Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. Upe
(I-2, Vāgnera 5. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock
and classical CDs in Riga.
Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cure-
all elixir, Balzams has been made in Riga since the late
18th century and is still used today to alleviate hango-
vers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient
in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal
ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in
charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee or currant juice.
Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been produc-
ing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found
in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town.
Gotiņas, or little cows, are another local treat that can
be found at most supermarkets. They’re essentially a
semi-soft sweet cream based candy made with sugar.
See Sightseeing to learn about the Central Market pictured here
October - November 2018 61
 Sports & Leisure
BEACH VOLLEYBALL
BRAZĪLIJA
This indoor beach sports centre offers beach volleyball
and football courts as well as a café/bar and a children’s
area. Take bus No.22 toward the airport to the Rūdas stop.
QMūkupurva 1C, tel. (+371) 25 40 00 00, www.brazil.lv.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. A
BOWLING
BOWLERO
This ultramodern entertainment centre offers 24 bowling
lanes (€8 - 15 depending on time), pool tables, a bar and a
children’s room. Take bus No.53 from the Esplanāde stop
on Brīvības to the RMR stop.QLielirbes 27, tel. (+371) 67
80 46 00, www.bowlero.lv. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00
- 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. A­T
PEPSI CENTRS
22 lanes, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool
tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/res-
taurant. Lanes cost €12.50 - 19/first hour, €3 - 5 each ad-
ditional hour. Reserve a lane ahead of time.QE‑2, Uzvaras
10, tel. (+371) 29 18 18 18, www.zelta.lv. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 -
02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
ESCAPE ROOMS
REAL QUEST
Among its more popular escape scenarios are Crazy Hang-
over, Abandoned Research Complex, Maniac, Museum
Robbery and, our favourite, Breaking Bad. Reserve a time for
groups of two to six players.QI‑2, Peitavas 4, tel. (+371) 27
40 74 26, www.realquest.lv. Open 10:30-23:00. A­J
FITNESS CLUBS & GYMS
JOKER KLUBS
Although the gym is available from the early morning
hours, the pool is usually only open from 10:00 (12:00 at
the weekend) and the bowling alley even later. See web-
site for exact times.QA‑3, Katrīnas 12, tel. (+371) 67 09 98
00, www.jokerklubs.lv. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. A­C
LATVIA FACT #97
Built in the early 13th century, St.
Peter’s Church has been a significant
part of Riga’s skyline for over 800
years, but unfortunately it’s stunning
tower was destroyed a number of times. It collapsed 10
years after being hit by Russian artillery in 1656, was the
victim of arson in 1677, was hit by lightning in 1721 and
was accidentally destroyed by the Red Army in 1941. It
was rebuilt in 1970.
62 Riga In Your Pocket
HOCKEY: DYNAMO RIGA
Spread out over a dozen time zones, the Russian
Kontinental (sic) Hockey League or KHL also includes
teams from beyond the borders of the Russian Fed-
eration like Dynamo Riga (Latvia) and Jokerit Helsinki
(Finland). Home games take place at Arena Riga, A-4,
Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets can be
bought online at www.bilesuserviss.lv and cost from
€5 - 86. Visit www.dinamoriga.lv for more information.
Photo by Nienke Bos
Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga
October
Date Time Game
12 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. Kunlun Red Star
14 17:00 Dynamo Rīga vs. Admiral Vladivostok
16 19:00 Dynamo Rīga vs. Amur Khabarovsk
26 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. SKA St. Petersburg
30 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. Severstal Cherepovets
November
1 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. Lokomotiv Yaroslavl
21 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. Vityaz Moscow
23 19:30 Dynamo Rīga vs. Avangard Omsk
MYFITNESS
A large chain of gyms and fitness clubs.QC‑4, Marijas
ielā 13/8 (Berga Bazārs), tel. (+371) 67 28 85 85, www.
myfitness.lv. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri 06:30 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at D-2, Kuģu 24 (Radisson Hotel).
Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
OLYMPIC SPORTS CENTRE (OLIMPISKAIS
SPORTA CENTRS)
A modern, state-of-the-art sports centre for swimming,
football, basketball, tennis, aerobics, gymnastics and many
other disciplines. A café is also available.QA‑4, Grostonas
6b, tel. (+371) 67 38 84 78, www.olimpiskais.lv. Open
07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00.
GUN RANGES
RIGA SHOOTING CENTER
You’ll need to rent a car or to take a cab, but if you ap-
preciate clay pigeon or target shooting this gun range
just outside of Riga is the place to go.QDižsili, Ropažu
novads, tel. (+371) 29 46 20 92/(+371) 29 17 48 19, www.
ssk.sporting.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Clay
pigeon shooting: €20 per 30 minutes.
riga.inyourpocket.com

KART RACING
HIGH VOLTAGE ELEKTROKARTINGS
Take some laps in an eco-friendly electric go-kart made
in Latvia. Prices: children €8 - 10, adults €10 - 12.QB‑5,
Matīsa 25 (entrance from Kr. Barona 80), tel. (+371) 20
45 43 21, www.elektrokartings.lv. Open 12:00-21:00, Fri
12:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. A
PAINTBALL
GUNSNLASERS
This company organises paintball and laser tag games on
the premises of an abandoned power plant beside the Riv-
er Daugava. It offers quality equipment including smoke
grenades and a heated changing room in case you want
to get in touch with your inner action hero during the win-
ter. Book a time on its website.QA‑2, Andrejostas 8, tel.
(+371) 27 27 46 46, www.gunsnlasers.lv. L
SAUNAS
BALTĀ PIRTS
Opened in 1908, the White Sauna is owned and oper-
ated by an American-Latvian who happens to be a direct
descendant of its founder. Both traditional Latvian and
modern saunas are available as well as swimming pools,
baths, a café and English-speaking staff.QB‑6, Tallinas 71,
tel. (+371) 67 27 17 33, www.baltapirts.lv. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cashier
open until one hour before closing.
SWIMMING
LĪVU AKVAPARKS
Latvia’s largest indoor water park charges roughly €20 -
25/adult for two hours of fun, children under six €5 - 7. A
wave pool, children’s pool, outdoor pool, water slides and
other attractions are all at your disposal as well as a pool-
side bar, a cafeteria, saunas and hot tubs. Take a Jūrmala
bound train to the Bulduri station and then walk 10 min-
utes down Muižas iela to the park.QLielupe (Jūrmala),
Viestura 24, tel. (+371) 67 75 56 36, www.akvaparks.lv.
Open 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00, Closed Mon, Tue.
The park is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays from Sep-
tember - May. A­T­B­L­C­D
RTU ĶĪPSALA SWIMMING POOL (RTU ĶĪPSALAS
PELDBASEINS)
This huge 50m-long swimming pool is perfect for serious
swimmers as well as intermediates and novices. In fact, if
you don’t know how to swim, you (or you’re your children)
can take lessons here. A fitness club with the latest exer-
cise machines is also available complete with private train-
ers and boxing, yoga, water aerobics, Zumba and other
classes are regularly held here. Afterwards relax in a sauna
or get something to eat at the café, but if you still have
energy try the indoor rock climbing wall.QC‑2, Ķīpsalas
5, tel. (+371) 67 61 69 89, www.baseins.eu. Open 06:45
- 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:45 - 21:45.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Sports & Leisure
RIGA FOR KIDS
Eating out Finding child-friendly restaurants and
cafés in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but
a few have realised that providing a play area for
children can actually add to their bottom line. Vairāk
Saules (C-4, Dzirnavu 60, www.vairaksaules.lv) offers
a kids’ menu and all the legos a child could ever want
while Street Fries Kitchen (I-3, Vāgnera 18, streetfries.
lv) has a small kids’ area as well as plenty of pancakes
and fries. Charlestons (C-4/5, Blaumaņa 38/40, www.
charlestons.lv) has a children’s corner and supervised
activities during weekend brunch.
Educational trips The Ethnographic Museum
(Brīvības gatve 440, www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv) is a great
place for kids. Not only can children learn about Lat-
vian customs, but they can also see people in period
costume performing various tasks. The Riga National
Zoo (www.rigazoo.lv - take tram No.11 from K.Barona
to the Mežaparks stop) in Mežaparks is also always a
good option and if the word ‘museum’ already has the
kids rolling their eyes, then the Laima Chocolate Mu-
seum (B-5, Miera 22, www.laimasokoladesmuzejs.lv)
might just change their minds. You can also combine a
shopping outing with some kids’ fun at Zinoo Rīga (C-
4, Dzirnavu 67 - 5th floor, www.zinoo.lv), a fascinating
children’s science centre. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
Just for fun Līvu Akvaparks (Jūrmala, Lielupe, Vi-
estura 24, www.akvaparks.lv) offers a wave pool, a
children’s pool, six water slides and a tubing river guar-
anteed to keep the kids happy all day long. Parents
can have a drink at the swim-up cocktail bar. If you’re
child loves bouncy houses, slides labyrinths and climb-
ing obstacles then head over to City Kids (A-3, Ganību
Dambis 7a, citykids.lv). However, both young and old
can enjoy Jump Space Riga (Krasta 52, jumpspace.
lv), a huge hangar-like building filled with wall-to-wall
trampolines, or Skypark Latvija (Grostonas 1, fb.com/
skyparklatvija), which has a similar concept.
Playgrounds In the city centre you’ll find a good
playground at Vērmanes Park (corner of K.Barona and
Elizabetes) and at Esplanāde Park behind the Latvian
National Museum of Art (F-3, Valdemāra and Elizabe-
tes). Mežaparks offers two huge playgrounds, but
you’ll find the biggest playground in Riga on Kr.Barona
iela. Take tram No.6 to the Sporta nams Daugava stop.
The massive outdoor complex is hard to miss.
October - November 2018 63
 Useful Addresses
BEAUTY SALONS
MATU MEISTARI
A chic salon in the Berga bazārs shopping arcade.QC‑4,
Dzirnavu 84, tel. (+371) 67 28 48 43, www.matumeistari.
lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
RIGA TOP HAIR
Professional hairstylists on the edge of Old Riga.QI‑3, As-
pazijas bulvāris 30, tel. (+371) 67 21 31 23. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
LATVIA FACT #98
Riga was the first city outside of
Germany to embrace Martin Lu-
ther’s Reformation. Ignoring the
wishes of the Catholic Church,
Riga’s city council, supported by wealthy guildsmen,
appointed Lutheran firebrand Andreass Knopke as the
official pastor of St. Peter’s Church in 1522.

CLEANERS
CITY CLEAN
Dry cleaners and laundromat.QC‑5, Barona 52 (entrance
from Ģertrūdes), tel. (+371) 67 27 24 71. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
NIVĀLA
Wash your own clothes or just drop them off and have the
staff do it for you. Also offer dry cleaning services.QC‑4,
Lāčplēša 21 (entrance from Akas), tel. (+371) 67 28 13
46. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Most banks and currency exchanges charge a ridiculous fee
for accepting any notes that are torn, dirty or marked.
TAVEX
A reputable currency exchange outlet.QD-4, Stacijas lau-
kums 2 (Origo shopping centre), tel. (+371) 67 07 31 15,
www.tavex.lv. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
FOREIGN EMBASSIES
DENTISTS
ADENTA
Professional English-speaking staff. Also available at the
weekend in emergencies.QA‑4, Ganību dambis 4, tel.
(+371) 67 33 93 00, www.adenta.lv. Open 08:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
MEDICAL
ARS
English-speaking doctors. Listed opening hours are for
the trauma centre.QF‑3, Skolas 5, tel. (+371) 67 20 10 07,
www.ars-med.lv. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
20:00. For a 24-hour medical consultaion call its hotline
at tel. (+371) 67 20 10 03.
OFFICE SUPPLIES
VALDA OŠIŅA RAKSTĀMLIETAS
Everything you need to keep your office supplied.QC‑4,
Elizabetes 63, tel. (+371) 67 24 28 49. Open 09:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

For a complete list of foreign embassies and consulates

in Riga including opening hours visit www.mfa.gov.lv/ PHARMACIES
en/diplomatic-missions#. BENU APTIEKA
A large chain of pharmacies.QB‑6, Tallinas 57b, tel.
CANADA (+371) 67 31 42 11, www.benu.lv. Open 24hrs. Also at
QB‑4, Baznīcas 20/22, tel. (+371) 67 81 39 45, www. I-3, Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. (+371) 67 01 80 59.
latvia.gc.ca. Open 08:00 - 21:00; C-4, Brīvības 38, tel. (+371) 67 28
IRELAND 97 61. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
QB‑3, Alberta 13, tel. (+371) 67 03 93 70, www. Sun. A
embassyofireland.lv.
NETHERLANDS
QG‑1, Torņa 4 - Ia, tel. (+371) 67 32 61 47, www.
netherlandsembassy.lv.
SWEDEN
QF‑2, A.Pumpura 8, tel. (+371) 67 68 66 00, www.
swedenabroad.com/riga.
UNITED KINGDOM
QF‑2, J.Alunāna 5, tel. (+371) 67 77 47 00, www.
ukinlatvia.fco.gov.uk/en.
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
QSamnera Velsa 1, tel. (+371) 67 10 70 00, www.
riga.usembassy.gov.
The Riga Canal by Bastion Hill M.Zaprauskis

64 Riga In Your Pocket riga.inyourpocket.com


MĒNESS APTIEKA
A large chain of Latvian pharmacies.QB‑5, Brīvības 74,
tel. (+371) 20 37 74 76, www.menessaptieka.lv. Open
24hrs. A
SPAS
ESPA RIGA
ESPA Riga is the largest five-star spa in the Baltic and Scan-
dinavian region. Hidden behind the beautiful facade of an
historic art nouveau building, you’ll find six modern floors
of swimming pools, saunas, treatment rooms, gyms and
relaxation areas – all of which include cutting-edge design
and technology. Luxurious changing facilities are also at
your disposal as well as a café.QF‑3, Baznīcas 4a (Radis-
son Blu Hotel Latvija), tel. (+371) 67 71 52 22, www.
espariga.com. Open 07:00 - 22:30. A­K­C­D­F
LATVIA FACT #99
The Latvian national card game is
called zole or zolīte and has been
described as something similar to
the 19th-century group of Ger-
man card games called Schafkopf and is not unlike the
popular game skat.
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Useful Addresses
HEDONIC SPA
This relaxing, modern oasis is located in the cellar of a five-
star design hotel. You can expect a 15m-long swimming
pool, a Jacuzzi, a number of saunas, a Turkish steam bath,
heated lounges, a salt room and a state-of-the-art fitness
centre.QG‑2, Raiņa bulvāris 5/6, tel. (+371) 60 00 86 13,
www.semarahhotels.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Admis-
sion: €27 - 31 for 2.5 hours. A­W­C­D­F­w
TATTOOS
RĪGAS TINTE
Get some ink by some of the best artists in Riga.QC‑5, Kr.
Barona 45/47, tel. (+371) 67 22 50 55, www.rigastinte.lv.
Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. A
TRANSLATIONS
SKRIVANEK LATVIA
Translations in several languages.QD‑5, Lāčplēša 87C, tel.
(+371) 80 00 72 72, www.skrivanek.com. Open 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
VETS & PETS
DR. BEINERT’S CLINIC
A 24-hour veterinary clinic.QC‑5, Ģertrūdes 101, tel.
(+371) 67 28 85 39, www.vet.lv. Open 24hrs. A
October - November 2018 65
 Hotels
Riga really has it all when it comes to hotels. You can stay
in an ultra modern design apartment in the old town or
a beautiful suite with its own Jacuzzi if you don’t mind
spending your hard-earned cash. Those travelling on a
budget can choose from plenty of B&Bs, hostels and even a
few low-cost hotels. Bear in mind that hotels are often fully
booked in July and around New Year’s Eve, so plan accord-
ingly. Unless otherwise noted, breakfast is included in the
price of a hotel stay at the venues listed below.
CREAM OF THE CROP
EUROPA ROYALE RIGA
Live like a king or, at the very least, a fabulously wealthy
19th-century tycoon in this historic manor house in the
centre of Riga that once belonged to the Benjamin family.
Although the structure has been upgraded with modern
conveniences such as lifts and climate control, the parquet
floors, wooden columns, stained glass windows, ornate
fireplaces and gilded ceilings have all been restored to
their original glory. All rooms are spacious, elegantly deco-
rated and include all of the amenities you would expect
from a luxurious hotel.QC‑4, Barona 12, tel. (+371) 67 07
94 44, www.europaroyale.com. 60  rooms. A­P­X­
U­R­6­W­K­H­D
GRAND POET HOTEL BY SEMARAH
The Grand Poet Hotel’s interior is the brainchild of an
award-winning Swedish design firm that’s a playful mix of
the bohemian and the formal. 168 luxurious rooms offer
nearly every amenity imaginable, but we recommend you
request a room with a view overlooking the park across
the street, not to mention the panorama of Old Riga on
the opposite side of the canal. A restaurant, bar, café,
swimming pool and spa centre are yet more reasons to
choose this five-star hotel as your home away from home
in Riga.QG‑2, Raiņa bulvāris 5/6, tel. (+371) 60 00 86
00, www.grandpoet.semarahhotels.com. 168 rooms.
A­P­G­L­W­K­H­C­D­F­w
HOTEL NEIBURGS
This stylish design hotel is housed in one of Old Riga’s
most beautiful art nouveau buildings. All 55 of its apart-
ments include a combination of modern minimalist décor
and original elements like restored parquet floors that date
back to 1903. Kitchens, spacious rooms, huge plasma TVs,
free wireless internet access, bathrooms with bathtubs,
slippers and robes and excellent views all come standard.
iHome dual charging stereo FM clock radios with lightning
dock and USB charge/play for iOS devices are also included
in the price. Two-storey suites, accommodation with bal-
conies and an excellent restaurant are also available.QI‑1,
Jauniela 25/27, tel. (+371) 67 11 55 22, www.neiburgs.
com. 55 rooms. A­P­X­U­J­R­6­W­K­H­D­F
youtube.com/inyourpocket
66 Riga In Your Pocket
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
Z Anti-allergy O Casino
T Child-friendly H Conference facilities
U Disabled facilities I Fireplace
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
J Old town location 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant D Sauna
X Smoking section C Swimming pool
w Wellness/Spa W Wi-fi
RADISSON BLU RIDZENE HOTEL
A 1980s edifice that once served as accommodation for
the cream of Soviet society now houses one of Riga’s
most deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry
wood decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and
fitness complex with 180° views. Naturally, all of its rooms
include every modern convenience including flat screen
TVs and high-speed wireless internet access. Its ground
floor restaurant is located below a glass pyramid that
affords great views of the park across the street.QG‑3,
Reimersa 1, tel. (+371) 67 09 33 33, www.radissonblu.
com/ridzenehotel-riga. 95 rooms. A­Z­P­G­U­B­
L­W­K­H­D­F
UPMARKET
BELLEVUE PARK HOTEL RIGA
This enormous hotel on the other side of the river offers
over 200 rooms, two restaurants, a bar and a massive
conference centre. All accommodation includes cable TV,
climate control, mini-bar, trouser press and bathrooms
with hairdryer and shower or tub. Higher end rooms also
include bathrobes, slippers, balconies and floor to ceiling
windows with views. The reception desk, which is essen-
tially a large aquarium, sets the tone for a comfortable stay
beside one of the city’s largest parks.QE‑1, Slokas 1, tel.
(+371) 67 06 90 00, www.hotelbellevue.lv. 222 rooms.
A­Z­P­G­U­L­6­W­K­H­D­F­w
LATVIA FACT #100
Before she ascended the throne
of Russia, Anna Ivanovna (1693–
1740) was married to Friedrich Wil-
helm Kettler (1692-1711), the Duke
of Courland, and lived in the Latvian city of Jelgava
(Mitau) until she was called back to Russia to become
empress. Read all 100 facts at iyp.me/74922f.
riga.inyourpocket.com

METROPOLE HOTEL BY SEMARAH
Although Riga’s oldest continuously running hotel has
been in operation since 1871, the Semarah group renovat-
ed much of the historic premises in 2014. Those who ap-
preciate old world elegance can stay in its more affordable
classic accommodation, which retains much of its pre-
refurbishment character save a few extra amenities such
as flat screen TVs. Anyone who prefers more fashionable
surroundings can stay in its contemporary rooms, which
boast the same comforts as well as modern interior de-
sign. All rooms have bright hardwood floors, climate con-
trol and free wi-fi among other conveniences. Conference
rooms are also at your disposal as well as a top-notch res-
taurant.QI‑3, Aspazijas Boulevard 36/38, tel. (+371) 66
01 03 36, www.semarahhotels.com. 88 rooms. A­P­
G­U­J­6­W­K­H­D­F
MONIKA CENTRUM HOTEL
This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated
neo-Gothic building built in 1883, offers spacious
rooms with satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar,
phone, internet access and private bathrooms with
bathtub and bidet as well as a bar, restaurant, modern
conference facilities and a fitness centre. Many of the
rooms also include balconies with excellent views of
the park and surrounding 19th-century architecture.
Named after the owner’s daughter, Monika also offers
incredible suites with original decorative artwork and
four-poster beds.QB‑3, Elizabetes 21, tel. (+371) 67 03
19 00, www.monika.centrumhotels.com. 80  rooms.
A­P ­X ­U ­6 ­W ­K ­H ­D
RADISSON BLU DAUGAVA HOTEL
Located on the left bank of the River Daugava, many of
this hotel’s rooms offer incredible views of Old Riga across
the water. The facade could use some paint, but singles
and doubles are spacious and include TV, mini-bar and
private bathrooms. Business travellers can choose busi-
ness class rooms or suites, which are more spacious and
include a few extra perks. An excellent fitness centre with
a pool is available as well as conference rooms and a res-
taurant.QD‑2, Kuģu 24, tel. (+371) 67 06 11 11, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-riga. 353 rooms. A­P­X­U­
6­W­K­H­C­D­F­w
RADISSON BLU ELIZABETE HOTEL
Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly styl-
ish hotel is located opposite Riga’s most beautiful park
a short walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a
trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spa-
cious rooms includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet,
large bathrooms and many other four-star amenities as
well as views of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness
centre, a hip cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T.
are also at your disposal and an ice machine is located on
each floor which is unheard of in Latvia.QC‑4, Elizabe-
tes 73, tel. (+371) 67 78 55 55, www.radissonblu.com/
elizabetehotel-riga. 228 rooms. A­Z­P­G­U­B­
L­W­K­H­D­F
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Hotels
RADISSON BLU LATVIJA CONFERENCE & SPA
HOTEL
All rooms include phone, mini-bar, hair dryer, climate
control and satellite TV. Executive class suites are more
spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy and
smoke-free accommodation is also at your disposal, as
well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and
room service, not to mention dozens of shops including
a gourmet food delicatessen.QC‑4, Elizabetes 55, tel.
(+371) 67 77 22 22, www.radissonblu.com/latvijahotel-
riga. 571 rooms. A­Z­P­G­T­U­W­K­H­C­D­
F­O­w
ST. PETER’S BOUTIQUE HOTEL
If you’re looking for luxurious, yet modern rooms in an an-
tique, medieval setting then this boutique hotel housed in
an historic building in Old Riga dating back to the 15th cen-
tury is a great option. All accommodation includes four-
star amenities like flat screen TVs, mini-bars, complimen-
tary coffee/tea sets, private bathrooms and stylish décor
as well as a few extras like iPod/iPhone docking stations
and bathrobes not to mention views of the Old Town’s red
roofs. A romantic lounge and upmarket restaurant that in-
cludes a huge fireplace is also available as well as a private
courtyard terrace in the summer. Despite the structure’s
historic status, the hotel also includes a lift.QJ‑2, Peldu 23,
tel. (+371) 67 22 30 27, www.stpetershotel.lv. 22 rooms
(2 singles €65 - 80, 11 doubles €75 - 105, 2 suites €120 -
190, 1 junior suite €100 - 125). A­P­I­J­W­K­D
LEARN LATVIAN
Useful phrases
Do you speak English? Vai jūs runājiet angliski?
Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, café, bar,
toilet?
Kur atrodas tuvākais veikals, viesnīca, restorāns, kafej-
nīca, bārs, tualete?
How much does this cost? Cik tas maksā?
Hi Sveiks! Goodbye! Uz redzēšanos!
Yes Jā No Nē
Cheers! Priekā! Thank you Paldies
Numbers Days of the week
1 viens Monday pirmdiena
2 divi Tuesday otrdiena
3 trīs Wednesday trešdiena
4 četri Thursday ceturtdiena
5 pieci Friday piektdiena
6 seši Saturday sestdiena
7 septiņi Sunday svētdiena
8 astoņi
9 deviņi Street smarts
10 desmit Street iela
50 piecdesmit
Square laukums
100 simts Airport lidosta
October - November 2018 67
 Hotels
WELLTON CENTRUM HOTEL & SPA
When one walks into the grand lobby of this design ho-
tel they’re immediately drawn to the huge aquariums
that separate the reception area from the stylish restau-
rant. All rooms are decorated in a similar fashion with
beige and grey tones and light wooden furnishings and
amenities include flat screen TVs, mini-bar, safe, coffee/
tea sets, free wi-fi, ironing boards, spacious bathrooms
and climate control, not to mention bathrobes on each
bed. A huge medieval wall has been successfully inte-
grated into the design of some of the hallways and a
spa centre including a swimming pool is available in
the basement.QI‑3, Kalēju 33, tel. (+371) 67 13 06 70,
www.wellton.com/centrum. 144  rooms. A­P ­G­
U­J ­6 ­W ­K ­C ­D ­w
APARTHOTELS
RIGAAPARTMENT GERTRUDA
Although Riga has lots of hotels and many more apart-
ments, it doesn’t offer many aparthotels. RigaApartment
Gertruda offers affordable apartments in one building that
are all available for short-term rental, so you can stay for as
little as one night or spend a whole week here. The apart-
ments are incredibly spacious with high ceilings and hard-
wood floors and offer a wide variety of amenities including
comfortable furniture, full kitchens, washing machines, flat
screen TVs and at least one bathroom and bedroom (de-
pending on the apartment). Some of the flats also have
fireplaces, but we preferred the cosy attic apartments. A
lift is also at your disposal as well as a 24-hour reception
desk and a Latvian restaurant is available on the ground
floor of the building.QC‑5, Ģertrūdes 54, tel. (+371) 25
46 15 46, www.rigaapartment.com/about-gertruda.
17  rooms (17  apartments €35  - 200) Breakfast: €4.45.
A­Z­G­T­W
RIGAAPARTMENT SONADA
This charming five-storey building was completely
renovated in 2014 and is located in its own quiet private
courtyard, which includes plenty of secure parking and a
children’s playground. The majority of its rooms are 40m2
one-bedroom apartments equipped with IKEA furniture,
flat screen TVs with satellite channels, fold-out couches,
full kitchens, free wi-fi, washing machines and bathrooms
with ionic hairdryers. Two of its 16 rooms offer yet another
bedroom, but are similar in style. 24-hour customer sup-
port is available and you can also rent bikes here. Great for
families and guests who have cars. Airport transfers avail-
able.QD‑6, Ģertrūdes 129 (entrance from Valmieras
7), tel. (+371) 25 46 15 46, www.rigaapartment.com/
about-sonada. 18 rooms (4 doubles €25 - 40, 14 apart-
ments €40 - 100). A­G­T­L­W
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials app
68 Riga In Your Pocket
COUNTRYSIDE HOLIDAYS
LAUKU CEĻOTĀJS (COUNTRY TRAVELLER)
The Country Traveller offers B&Bs and holiday homes
outside of Riga. Check its comprehensive website to
find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride
horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna,
enjoy a romantic evening by a roaring fire in a reno-
vated farmhouse or a regal stay in an ancient castle.
QD‑1, Kalnciema 40, tel. (+371) 67 61 76 00, www.
celotajs.lv. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BED & BREAKFAST
JAKOB LENZ GUESTHOUSE
This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood
is only a stone’s throw from the city’s most impressive
Art Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious
rooms, many with private bathrooms, within renovated
apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is available to
all guests as well as a communal computer with internet
access or free wireless in rooms. You can also take ad-
vantage of its laundry service and private parking in the
courtyard.QB‑3, Lenču 2, tel. (+371) 67 33 33 43, www.
guesthouselenz.lv. 28 rooms. A­6­W
BUDGET
LIBERTY HOTEL
You usually have to pay a premium for accommodation
with a view, but this hotel and hostel seems to be the ex-
ception to the rule. Stay in dorm rooms on the fourth floor
overlooking the Riga Canal and the Freedom Monument or
pay a little extra for private rooms on the fifth floor, some of
which have en-suite facilities. There’s not much in the way
of interior design, but all rooms look brand-new and are
clean and tidy. Communal kitchens and common areas are
available and women’s dorms can also be booked. Coffee
machines are also provided or you can take advantage of
the McDonald’s on the ground floor if you’re hungry.QH‑2,
Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica bulvāris 18, tel. (+371) 23 77
53 77, www.liberty.lv. A­G­U­J­W
TWO WHEELS HOTEL
Two Wheels offers casual, yet stylish accommodation
in a beautiful 19th-century wooden building in a quiet
neighbourhood on Riga’s left bank. Each of its 10 rooms is
named after a different city from around the globe and the
interiors reflect this. Stay the night in St. Petersburg or Lis-
bon or spend some extra cash and stay in Teheran which
is an apartment with its own private entrance. If, however,
you need to save some money, then you can book a bed
in one of its dorm rooms. You can also park your own mo-
torcycle in the garage, but if you left your hog back home
you can even rent a Harley or enduro bike here.QD‑1,
Baložu 12, tel. (+371) 67 46 88 84, www.twowheels.lv.
10 rooms. A­G­B­L­6­W­K
riga.inyourpocket.com

MID-RANGE
AIRPORT HOTEL MĀRA
For business travellers who don’t necessarily have to be in
the city centre or families making a tour of the Baltics with
their own car, this Latvian-Canadian run establishment
is a little island of comfort close to the airport. The staff
radiates friendliness and the pleasant rooms have satel-
lite TV and bathrooms with showers. Free parking is also
available.QKalnciema 186, tel. (+371) 67 70 27 18, www.
hotelmara.lv. 25 rooms. A­L­W­K­H­D
FORUMS
This modern hotel located on the edge of Old Riga offers
elegantly decorated rooms with dark red and gold uphol-
stered wooden furnishings, satellite TV, writing desk, phone
and private bathrooms with bath. Although almost all of the
rooms are spacious and comfortable we recommend you
splurge on the top-floor suite with its own sauna or the two
luxurious rooms with large tiled balconies with views of the
city and the river.QI‑3, Vaļņu 45, tel. (+371) 67 81 46 80,
www.hotelforums.lv. 32 rooms. A­X­J­W­K
RIXWELL GERTRUDE HOTEL
Located in a residential neighbourhood in the city cen-
tre, this large hotel offers nearly 80 rooms that include
flat screen satellite TVs, phone, writing desk, free wireless
internet access, mini-bar, climate control, safe and private
bathrooms with hair dryers and complimentary toiletries.
The interiors are clean and attractive and a conference
room is also available as well as a breakfast room.QC‑5,
Ģertrūdes 70, tel. (+371) 67 79 16 03, www.rixwell.com/
gertrude. 79 rooms. A­G­6­W­H
RIXWELL HOTEL KONVENTA SĒTA
With foundations that were once part of the medieval city
wall, the sprawling Konventa Sēta (Convent Yard) stands its
ground against Riga’s many hotels. A maze of hallways joins
nine historic buildings, and leads to a variety of rooms, some
with original oak beams. Standard amenities are available
as well as disabled and non-smoking rooms, not to men-
tion plenty of shopping and eating options. Apartments
with kitchenettes are also available.QI‑2, Kalēju 9/11, tel.
(+371) 60 00 87 00, www.rixwell.com/en/rixwell-hotel-
konventa-seta. 141 rooms. A­G­J­6­W­K­H
Fountain in the Esplanāde Park M.Zaprauskis
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Hotels
RIXWELL OLD RIGA PALACE HOTEL
This elegant Old Riga hotel offers old world atmosphere
with wood panelling, crystal chandeliers and the occasional
piece of antique furniture. Rooms are similar in style with
light walls and red carpeting and include such amenities as
satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini-bar, coffee/tea sets
and private bathrooms. Superior rooms are more spacious
and some even include balconies. A bar, fitness centre and
a lobby area with free wireless internet and three computer
workstations are also available.QJ‑2, Minsterejas 8/10,
tel. (+371) 67 55 97 90, www.rixwell.com/oldrigapalace.
116 rooms. A­P­G­J­6­W­K­H­D­w
HOSTELS
NAUGHTY SQUIRREL BACKPACKERS HOSTEL
Walk down hallways covered in graffiti by local street
artists to find doubles, triples and dorms (including one
female dorm) each of which includes private lockers and
even speakers that can be plugged into your iPod. Shared
toilets and showers, a full kitchen and a communal room
with cable TV, a DVD player and three free computers are
also available here at the place that Hostelworld.com rated
the 9th best hostel in the world! It also offers a wide range
of tours and activities like bungee jumping and shooting
AK-47s.QI‑3, Kalēju 50, tel. (+371) 67 22 00 73, www.
thenaughtysquirrel.com. 20 rooms (4 doubles €40, 2
triples €45 - 50, 2 four-bed dorms 12 - €14/person, 3
six-bed dorms €11 - 13/person, 4 eight-bed dorms €10
- 12/person, 1 female dorm €12 - 14, 2 ensuite €50 - 55).
Breakfast not included. A­J­W
RIGA OLD TOWN HOSTEL
The Aussie owners of this hip hostel made it clear to us
that the place is meant to be a fun, safe place to stay in Old
Riga for anyone who can appreciate comfortable beds,
great atmosphere and one of the best pubs in the city. In
fact, three floors of the building are occupied by drinking
space and the top three floors house dorm rooms with
light blue walls and red bunk beds with individual light-
ing and storage lockers. The hostel lacks a kitchen, but
all guests can get a free breakfast beer at the bar if they
wake up before 12:00. QI‑3, Vaļņu 43, tel. (+371) 67 22 34
06, www.rigaoldtownhostel.lv. Breakfast not included.
A­G­J­W
WICKED WEASEL HOSTEL
The same people who brought you the Naughty Squirrel
and the Riga Old Town Hostel have opened the Wicked
Weasel, which is like an upmarket hostel, but with the
same affordable prices as their other places. Deluxe dou-
bles include king size beds and dorm accommodation has
private storage lockers, individual lighting and electric
outlets as well as privacy curtains. A full communal kitch-
en with the latest appliances is also available as well as a
laundry room and a bar with a second storey terrace. Did
we mention it’s in Old Riga?QI‑3, Vaļņu 41, tel. (+371) 27
73 67 00. 14 rooms (4 deluxe doubles, 2 deluxe twin, 8
4- and 6-bed dorms). A­B­J­W
October - November 2018 69
 Liepāja
Straddling a narrow strip of land between the sea and a
lake Latvia’s third largest city began as a humble fishing vil-
lage, eventually becoming a major trading port under the
leadership of Jacob (or James) Kettler (1610 - 1681). The
burgeoning city suffered heavily during the Great Northern
War when the population was decimated by an outbreak
of the plague in 1710. It only regained its importance as
a port in the 19th century as a part of the Russian empire.
Today, Liepāja is known as a progressive city with beautiful
architecture, an internationally recognised Blue Flag beach
and nightlife that just won’t quit.
GETTING THERE & ARRIVING
Liepāja is located on the Baltic Sea coast 217km southwest
of Riga. If you’re travelling by car from Riga take the A9 all
the way to the city. Buses to Liepāja depart from the Riga
bus station and the trip lasts roughly 3.5 hours. All buses ar-
rive at the train station. Trains depart Riga once a week on
Fridays at 18:25 (returning on Sundays at 17:28) and arrive
at the Liepāja station a little more than three hours later.
Walk down Rīgas iela and reach the centre of town in 15
minutes or take a tram which stops next to the station. Buy
a €0.80 ticket from the driver or at newsstands and kiosks
for €0.70. You must time stamp the ticket in the tram.
airBaltic now offers direct flights between Liepāja
and Riga. Flights land at Liepāja Airport and a cab ride to
the centre of the city will take around 15 minutes, but you
can also take bus No.2 (€0.70 with a pre-paid ticket, €0.80
from the driver). Exit at the Koncertzāle stop for the hotels
overlooking the Tirdzniecības Canal or the Līva stop for the
centre of Liepāja and the tourist information centre.
ACCOMMODATION
AMBER APARTMENTS
Why rent a room at a hotel when you can have a whole
apartment right in the centre of the city? Amber offers a
great location as well as nearly a dozen renovated apart-
ments of varying sizes for individual travellers, couples or
families. All accommodation includes kitchens, private
toilets and showers, free wi-fi and cable TV. Bunk beds are
also available in the attic rooms to make the experience that
much more fun for the little ones. Expect excellent, friendly
service from the reception staff as well.QZivju 5, tel. (+371)
63 45 16 95/(+371) 25 22 77 23, www.amberliepaja.lv. 11
apartments (€30 - 80). J­A­L­G­W
Liepāja’s Promenade and canal M.Zaprauskis
70 Riga In Your Pocket
FONTAINE HOTEL
In all our years of reviewing hotels across Europe, this is
one of the hippest we’ve ever seen. The reception area
is a curiosity shop in the corner of this lovingly restored
wooden building that is over a century old. Rooms are a
mix of rustic hardwood floors, oriental carpets, army foot-
lockers for tables and footstools, assorted antiques and
modern conveniences like cable TV with DVD players and
modern private bathrooms. You can also stay in the Elvis
suite decorated with pictures of the king and other garish
design elements. The Valhalla Wine & Coffee bar is also at
your disposal, but remember to ask for a room with a bal-
cony and to book well in advance.QJūras 24, tel. (+371)
63 42 09 56, www.fontaine.lv. 19  rooms (11  doubles
€45, 3 suites €65, 3 family rooms €65, 2 budget rooms
€25) Breakfast: €6. A­6­L­X­W
PROMENADE HOTEL
This converted 19th-century warehouse on the harbour
canal is without a doubt one of the city’s best hotels. All
rooms include cable TV, internet access, phone, private
bathrooms, unique designer interior decoration and
some also offer spacious balconies with fantastic views of
the Liepāja marina below. Conference facilities, a restau-
rant, an art gallery and even yacht berths are also avail-
able.QVecā Ostmala 40, tel. (+371) 63 48 82 88, www.
promenadehotel.lv. 50 rooms (standard rooms from
€69, prestige from €89, junior suites from €119, suites
from €139, apartments from €149). P­H­A­6­U­
F­L­K­D­X­W
CAFÉS
BOULANGERIE
Located in a tiny historic space by Peter’s Market, Bou-
langerie specialises in gourmet coffee, fresh bread and
pastries and tasty sweets including delicious macaroons
in a variety of flavours. You can also have a glass of wine
or a cocktail while you take advantage of free wi-fi or just
soak up the trendy atmosphere of white-washed walls
covered in art. Prices are a little high for Liepāja, but the
hipster clientele and the staff don’t seem to mind and the
rooftop terrace is fantastic.QKuršu 2, tel. (+371) 27 13 46
86, www.boulangerie.lv. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. A­­S­W
DARBNĪCA
The Workshop is one of the hippest places to hang out
in Liepāja and judging by how crowded it is most days,
it seems that most locals are also in the know. Walk past
the bar covered in worn and weathered wooden boards
and grab a seat wherever you can to enjoy a proper meal,
some of the best desserts in western Latvia or a great craft
brew ‘imported’ from other parts of the nation. Board
games are also available, but most of the youngsters who
hang out here seem content to browse the net with their
mobile phones.QLielā 8, tel. (+371) 26 81 13 13, www.
darbnicacafe.lv. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 -
23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. T­J­A­­W
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Liepāja
RED SUN BUFFET
One of Liepāja’s hippest hotspots, Red Sun Buffet offers a
modern, spacious interior with a black and white checked
floor, industrial-style lamps hanging from the ceiling, a
large bar and a DJ niche that also serves as a dance floor at
the weekend. Although you’ll find some imaginative cui-
sine made with local ingredients here and even some veg-
etarian options, this place specialises in burgers cooked to
order with Latvian-raised Herefordshire beef. They even
ask you whether you’d like it medium-rare, medium or
well! A good selection of domestic crafts brews and for-
eign imports is also available for beer snobs like us.QPasta
2, tel. (+371) 25 85 85 80, www.redsunbuffet.lv. Open
11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun, Mon 11:00 -
20:00. (€5 - 8). T­J­A­E­­S­W
RESTAURANTS
BEL CIBO RISTORANTE
Liepāja finally has a proper Italian restaurant serving tasty
appetisers, pastas, salads and a small selection of main
courses. Naturally a number of delicious pizzas are also on
the menu, but what impressed us most was the professional
staff and the serene atmosphere – two things that can be
hard to find in this seaside city. You’ll also be interested to
know that the chef is Italian and fresh ingredients are im-
ported from Italy every week.QGraudu 21, tel. (+371) 27
83 02 74. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (€8 - 12). A­
FONTAINE DELISNACK
Mr. Fontaine is just full of great ideas. This small fast food
joint serves dozens of different burgers, spicy Tex-Mex
food like tacos and burritos, pizzas and even stir-fried noo-
dles and spring rolls, all made to order. You can have them
delivered to your hotel, eat them outside by the canal or
enjoy them next door.QDzirnavu 4, tel. (+371) 63 48 85
23, www.fontaine.lv. Open 24hrs. (€3 - 6). A­V­­S
LIEPĀJA’S OFFICIAL DISH
These days you can order
pretty much anything at
Liepāja’s cosmopolitan
cafés and bars from fresh
sushi and Tex-Mex bur-
ritos to burgers and pizza,
but if you’re looking for
something a bit more local
then try Liepājas menciņi
(Liepāja’s little codfish) that
is served at a growing number of restaurants in this
seaside city on the Baltic. The dish is a stew of smoked
cod, potatoes, onions and heavy cream presented in
a special ceramic pot. Liepāja’s official dish can be or-
dered at Klondaika Tex Mex, Pastnieka Māja and other
fine restaurants throughout the city.
72 Liepāja In Your Pocket
HOT POTATO
The long cavernous basement of a medieval wooden build-
ing in Liepāja’s old town is now home to a popular restau-
rant and bar serving international cuisine like steaks, stuffed
pork fillet, lamb kebabs and local fish as well as its name-
sake – potatoes served in a number of different ways. The
intricately vaulted ceilings lend the cellar an ancient ambi-
ence, while the high-backed booths upholstered with cop-
per-coloured pleather put one in mind of a 1970s cocktail
lounge. A stage area occasionally hosts local acts but your
kids can explore the children’s tent during the day while you
enjoy a Latvian craft brew or something stronger.QJāņa 1,
tel. (+371) 24 94 77 87. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
03:00. Closed Mon. J­A­E­­W
OISHII SUSHI
This little sliver of Tokyo is located at the far end of the
Fontaine Royal Hotel overlooking the canal. Inside you’ll
no doubt be as shocked as we were to encounter an en-
closed two-tiered conveyor belt filled with all kinds of
goodies from the Land of the Rising Sun. Sushi and other
cold dishes are available on the bottom and hot meals like
teriyaki chicken, soya beans, spring rolls and other treats
can be taken from the top. All of these small dishes cost
€0.99 or you can pay €9.99 and eat as much of what passes
you by as you like. A full a la carte menu is also available in
this modern space, but in the summer you can also take
advantage of its outdoor terrace.QStūrmaņu 1, tel. (+371)
25 72 81 98, www.oishii.lv. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00
- 23:00, SUn 11:00 - 19:00. (€5 - 15). J­A­V­­S­W
PASTNIEKA MĀJA
The Postman’s House is located in an ancient renovated
building in the centre of the city. Unfortunately, the in-
terior is actually quite modern but we’ll forgive them
because the courtyard is so charming. Dine on excellent
international fair on the ground floor, upstairs or on the
extensive summer terrace. Try the traditional Liepājas
menciņi (smoked cod fish stew) or something more ex-
otic like the ‘spicy envelopes’ also known as bulls’ balls.
QFr. Brīvzemnieka 53, tel. (+371) 29 11 31 86, www.
pastniekamaja.lv. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun, Mon 11:00 - 23:00. (€5 - 10). A­T­­W
ROMA CAFE
If you’re looking for some old world ambience as well as
some excellent Italian cuisine then duck into this lovingly
restored courtyard just off of the city’s main street and get
ready for a memorable dining experience. Although there
aren’t many main courses to speak of, Roma excels at pasta
and risotto dishes prepared in a number of ways. Needless
to say, plenty of wine and spirits are also available, so order
a glass of cabernet and admire the elegant chandeliers,
original gilt-framed paintings and wooden furnishings
that put one in mind of a 19th-century café. Complimen-
tary bread that’s baked on the premises is also a nice touch
and a large terrace can be enjoyed in the summer months.
QZivju 3, tel. (+371) 28 00 33 24. Open 8:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (€8 - 10). A­­S­J
liepaja.inyourpocket.com

PUBS & CLUBS
In a city that boasts more rock musicians than any other in
the nation, it’s never hard to find a party.
FONTAINE PALACE
It’s truly a shame that Riga doesn’t have a club like this.
But if you’re in Liepāja head down to the harbour canal
for live concerts every weekend and a steady diet of al-
ternative music. This converted warehouse offers a huge
dance floor on ancient timbers in front of the main stage,
but don’t overlook the downstairs bar with its own DJ and
a more relaxed atmosphere. Food from its next door Del-
isnack is also served round the clock, so you can grab a
burger before or after a show.QDzirnavu 4, tel. (+371) 63
48 85 10, www.fontainepalace.lv. Open 24hrs. Admis-
sion: Fri, Sat €1 - 3. E­­X
MIEZIS UN KOMPĀNIJA
With the opening of Barley & Co, Liepāja finally has a
bar specialising in craft brews from the Baltic as well as
other corners of the European continent. A list of eight
draught beers is constantly being amended at the far
end of this cosy half basement amply supplied with
unique wooden and metal furnishings, but you can also
choose from a wide variety of beer in bottles from Bel-
gian Trappist brews to Spanish fruit beers. Of particular
interest are Latvian herbal beers produced by Riga’s La-
bietis brewery. Dogs are also welcome.QKuģinieku 5,
tel. (+371) 29 12 64 97. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu
15:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 01:00. J­A­
RED SUN BUFFET BEACH BAR
One of the highlights of a trip to Liepāja is a day at the
city’s beautiful Blue Flag beach, but if you’d like to do
it in style then drop by Red Sun Buffet for great coffee
and dessert, tasty panini, excellent cocktails and a fun at-
mosphere right on the beach. Although this was once a
seasonal affair, with the help of some stylishly converted
shipping containers it is now open year-round, so you
can now visit the beach in winter and enjoy a drink in-
doors with a beautiful view of the sea.QLiepāja Beach,
tel. (+371) 25 85 85 80, www.redsunbuffet.lv. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. A­­W
TEX-MEX REPUBLIC
The building that looks like a huge barn with a tiled roof
is actually one the best places for a drink in the city. Find
a Tex-Mex style restaurant (12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00) to the right also serving international dishes, a fully
stocked bar with plenty of TVs in the middle and slot ma-
chines to the left. The entire second floor is dedicated to
pool and snooker and also offers a smoking room with car
seats called the Garage. A children’s room full of games
and toys is also available.QStendera 3, tel. (+371) 63
48 94 50, www.texmex.lv. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 05:00. O­T­A­E­­X­W
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Liepāja
GROBIŅA DAY TRIP
The historic town of Grobiņa is a little over 10km from
the centre of Liepāja and is a good day trip if you like
picturesque towns, castle ruins and Viking history.
Known as the Viking settlement of Seeburg, in 854 it
became the first settlement ever reported (in the Rim-
bert Chronicle) in the territory that now makes up Lat-
via. Today, the town is known for its picturesque cas-
tle ruins on the bank of the River Ālande. The castle
(photo below) was built by the Livonian Order in the
13th and 14th centuries and gained infamy as the site
of the first Latvian witch trial in 1559. Although it was
visited by Polish and Swedish kings over the centu-
ries, as well as countless European princelings, it was
eventually abandoned in the 19th century. The whole
area is open to the public and makes for a decent hike
in the summer and fall when an old fashioned cable
ferry will take you across a section of the river.
Across the street from the ruins you’ll find the Grobiņa
Lutheran Church (photo below), which was built
at the behest of Duke Jacob (James) in 1664. It was
heavily damaged in World War II, but has since been
renovated. The ancient hillfort of Grobiņa, which pre-
ceded the castle, is also surrounded by a number of
burial mounds and grounds dating from the 2nd -
9th centuries. Although there’s not much left to see
these days, the ancient Priediens burial grounds can
be found less than 2km east of the castle where Liepu
gatve and Zirgu iela meet. The site contained the
raised burial mounds of the Scandinavian settlers as
well as more ancient flat graves of the local Couroni-
ans. If you don’t have a car, ask the friendly staff at the
Liepāja Tourist Information Centre how to best reach
the town from Liepāja.
October - November 2018 73
 Liepāja
SIGHTSEEING
You’ll need at least a couple of days to see everything that
Liepāja has to offer. Spend the night in a haunted prison,
climb up to the clock tower of Holy Trinity Church for spec-
tacular views of the city, soak up the atmosphere at Peter’s
Market, explore the ruins of a tsarist fort or just spend time
at the Blue Flag beach.
CHURCHES
HOLY TRINITY LUTHERAN CHURCH (SV.
TRĪSVIENĪBAS LUTERĀŅU BAZNĪCA)
Although the church’s facade looks like it could use some
renovations and repairs, the amazing gilded rococo in-
terior will not fail to impress. Built from 1742 - 1758, the
baroque-style church is best known for its incredible
organ, whose over 7,000 pipes, 131 registers and four
manuals made it, for a time, the world’s largest – larger
even than that of the Dome in Riga. For a small fee you
can climb up the many wooden stairs to the clock tower
where you’re afforded an excellent view of the city. The
climb is not for the faint of heart.QLielā 9, tel. (+371) 20
03 77 38, www.trinitatis.lv. Open October - April 11:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (SV. ANNAS BAZNĪCA)
Although there has been a St. Anne’s on this spot since the
early 1500s, the current red brick neo-Gothic structure was
created in 1893. The soaring steeple reaches a height of
60m, but the church’s main claim to fame is its impressive
baroque altar painting that measures a whopping 5.8 by
9.7m – no small feat for Latvia whose Lutheran houses of
worship usually lack the ornamentation of flashier Catholic
churches. The nations’ third largest organ is also worth a
look.QE. Veidenbauma 1, tel. (+371) 63 42 42 31.
ST. JOSEPH’S CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL (SV.
JĀZEPA KATOĻU KATEDRĀLE)
The massive yellow brick church next to the market has an
interesting history. The expanding 19th-century congre-
gation had outgrown its small building, but had been de-
nied a building permit for a new church so they just added
onto the existing one creating the towering structure you
now see. The interior is ornately decorated with scenes
from the Bible.QRakstvežu 13, tel. (+371) 63 42 97 75.
Keep an eye out for local sculptures Mārtiņš Zaprauskis
74 Liepāja In Your Pocket
Great Amber concert hall M.Zaprauskis
KAROSTA
Once completely off limits to civilians, the former naval
port has become Liepāja’s main tourist attraction. Built
from 1890 - 1904 at the behest of Tsar Alexander III, the city
within a city cost the Russian treasury a modest sum of 45
million gold roubles. Ironically, the massive fortifications
constructed on the coast were dynamited before the First
World War even began as a result of the friendship treaty
signed between Germany and Russia in 1908. If you’ve got
plenty of time then you can cover the area on foot, but we
recommend a bicycle tour. For more information about this
intriguing destination visit www.karosta.lv.
HIPPODROME (MANĒŽA)
Just beyond the Karosta prison is the sprawling hippo-
drome, a testament to the importance of the cavalry in
early 20th-century warfare and to the fascination with all
things equine in an age when Henry Ford was just begin-
ning to mesmerise the world with his horseless carriages.
The original structure was completely enclosed by a glass
roof and military equestrian performances took place
every weekend to crowds of spectators as large as 4,000
people. Only red-brick ruins remain.QManēžas iela.
KAROSTA PRISON (KAROSTAS CIETUMS)
Originally built as an infirmary in 1900, this ominoius brick
building was used as a military prison by a long succession
of regimes including the Soviets, Nazis and most recently,
the Latvians. A tour of the building will reveal the horrible
life lived by the inmates and the graffiti they left behind
and guides are also happy to tell you the tale of the ghost
that haunts the prison. The hauntings were even investi-
gated in an episode of the SciFi Channel’s Ghost Hunters
International. They claimed it was one of the most active
locations they had ever visited.
Visitors can take a simple tour with a guide or audio
guide, participate in a reality show (in English or German),
spend the night in a cell or do the ultimate and become
a prisoner for the night including regular bed checks, ver-
bal abuse by guards in period uniforms and experience
the horrors of using the latrine (see website for details).
For participatory events you must call ahead and reserve
a time.QInvalīdu 4, tel. (+371) 26 36 94 70, www.
karostascietums.lv. Open Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00 or by ap-
pointment (October - April). Admission: €3 - 4.50.
liepaja.inyourpocket.com

NORTHERN BREAKWATER (ZIEMEĻU MOLS)
When the weather’s good, the 1800m-long breakwater
makes for a pleasant stroll on the sea, without getting wet.
Storm watchers also come here for excellent views of the
waves, but do so at your own risk.
NORTHERN FORTS (ZIEMEĻU FORTI)
A long system of concrete fortifications was once part
of the Naval Port’s defences, but was intentionally de-
stroyed after a friendship and cooperation agreement
was signed with Germany in 1908. It’s not known if the
tsar later pondered the irony of blowing up such massive
defences on the eve of WWI, but of course it’s always easy
to make jokes with hindsight. Today, you can cautiously
walk through the ruins and watch buildings, pillboxes and
concrete staircases slowly recede into the sea, but beware
as a large section collapsed in a landslide in January of
2018. Similar forts are visible in the south of Liepāja where
Klaipēdas and Ganību streets meet.QNorth of the break-
water, west of Atmodas bulvāris.
OSKARS KALPAKS BRIDGE (OSKARA KALPAKA
TILTS)
This iconic metal bridge, whose design was supposedly
based on a sketch by Gustave Eiffel, was opened in 1906.
The bridge has been damaged a number of times over
the years, most recently in 2006 when a tanker smacked
into it. The technical marvel is still in operation to this day
and opens up at scheduled times throughout the day
and night to allow ships to pass.QO. Kalpaka iela, www.
karosta.lv.
ST. NICHOLAS ORTHODOX SEA CATHE-
DRAL (SV. NIKOLAJA PAREIZTICĪGO JŪRAS
KATEDRĀLE)
This monumental symbol of both the Orthodox Church
and the tsarist monarchy must have been at odds with
communist doctrine and no doubt a thorn in the side
of the party devout. Finished in 1903 and christened by
Nicholas II himself, it served as the garrison’s church much
as it did during the Latvian period. The Soviets however
used it as a warehouse, gymnasium and meeting hall.
Today it is once again an Orthodox house of worship and
an architectural wonder in a sea of concrete mediocrity.
QKatedrāles 7, tel. (+371) 63 45 76 34.
The beach is a little less crowded in autumn Mārtiņš Zaprauskis
facebook.com/rigainyourpocket
Liepāja
MUSEUMS
LIEPĀJA MUSEUM (LIEPĀJAS MUZEJS)
Housed in a building which is itself an historical treasure,
the museum has managed to maintain its original early
20th-century interior. The ground floor displays Stone
and Bronze Age artefacts unearthed at local archaeologi-
cal sites, an excellent collection of weapons and jewellery
recovered from a Viking settlement at Grobiņa and vin-
tage memorabilia from both world wars. Paintings, ethno-
graphic costumes, black and white photos and centuries-
old bibles are also on display and a sculpture garden is also
at your disposal outside.QKūrmājas prospekts 16, tel.
(+371) 63 42 29 73, www.liepajasmuzejs.lv. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: free; audio guide
in English or German: € 1.50.
PLACES OF INTEREST
CHARLES XII OF SWEDEN HOUSE
This historic house is known for the fact that King Charles
XII of Sweden stayed here during the Great Northern War
in the early 18th century. Coincidentally, his nemesis Peter
the Great stayed at the house across the street during his
travels across Europe as a young man.QKungu 26.
GREAT AMBER CONCERT HALL (LIELAIS DZINTARS)
The amber jewel in Liepāja’s cultural crown opened in
the autumn of 2015 and its unconventional design is al-
ready making waves in this hip city on the Baltic Sea. The
roundish concert hall, which is meant to resemble a piece
of the prehistoric, semi-precious sap that washes up on
the beach at Liepāja, is a welcome addition to city’s sky-
line which was previously dominated by a combination
of medieval spires and 20th-century industrial smoke
stacks. You can take the lift up to the 7th floor for incred-
ible views or stop by for lunch at its café. Exhibitions are
also held here. Follow its website or Facebook page for up-
coming events.QRadio 8, tel. (+371) 63 42 45 55, www.
greatamber.lv.
LAKE LIEPĀJA NATURE BOARDWALK
Nature lovers no longer have to leave Liepāja to appreciate
the great outdoors and the wildlife it supports. You can
now take a look at the wetlands surrounding Lake Liepāja
on its north-western edge where Lauku iela meets Edu-
arda Tisē iela. Just follow the roughly 1km-long wooden
boardwalk and see if you can spot a rare bird or a unique
aquatic creature only minutes from the city centre.QInter-
section of Lauku and Eduarda Tisē iela.
LIEPĀJA BEACH (LIEPĀJAS PLUDMALE)
If the sun is out during the summer you’d be a fool not to
visit Liepāja’s beautiful white sand beach, which is an of-
ficial Blue Flag beach. This means that changing stations,
lifeguards and toilets are available as well as some excel-
lent beach bars offering fruity cocktails, ice cream and
snacks. The beach is also a favourite among kiteboarders
and windsurfers.QLiepājas pludmale.
October - November 2018 75
 Liepāja
LĪVI GHOST TREE (SPOKU KOKS)
The so-called Ghost Tree is a 6m-tall tribute to one of
Latvia’s most beloved rock bands, Līvi. The group was
founded in Liepāja in 1976 and quickly conquered the
hearts and minds of music fans around the nation. The
tree is made of 4,000 stainless steel rods, but if you look
closely you’ll see five instruments hidden between the
branches. The cobblestones that surround the work of
art are engraved with the names of 30 of the band’s most
popular songs, which play on a continuous loop. Head
toward the beach from Peldu iela and you can’t miss
it.QJūrmalas parks.
MONUMENT TO MARINERS LOST AT SEA (PI-
EMINEKLIS BOJĀ GĀJUŠAJIEM JŪRNIEKIEM)
Erected in 1977 to honour all of the local sailors and fisher-
men lost at sea, this massive communist-style monument
depicts a woman gazing out onto the Baltic hoping to
catch a glimpse of her missing loved one. Later after in-
dependence a plaque was added commemorating a little
known incident on April 8, 1950 when a US Navy airplane
carrying 10 American airmen was shot down by the Sovi-
ets off the coast of Liepāja.QOn the beach at the end of
Kūrmājas prospekts.
PETER’S MARKET (PĒTERTIRGUS)
Since the second half of the 17th century Kuršu lau-
kums served as the city’s main market, but in 1910 the
Pētertirgus pavilion was built next door and has remained
Liepāja’s central trading venue to this day. Inside you’ll find
stunning architecture and a hygienic market that has lost
some of its character due to the pressures of the mod-
ern era. Outside you’ll find flower and vegetable stalls as
well as vendors selling local crafts and souvenirs.QKuršu
5/7/9, tel. (+371) 63 42 35 17, www.petertirgus.lv. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
PETER THE GREAT HOUSE (PĒTERA I NAMIŅŠ)
Not only is this charming house one of Liepāja’s oldest build-
ings, it also has the distinction of having hosted the Russian
tsar on his trip to Western Europe in 1697. Coincidentally, the
historic house across the street (Kungu 26/Bāriņu 33) was
built only two years later and served as accommodation for
King Charles XII of Sweden, the tsar’s rival during the Great
Northern War (1699 - 1721).QKungu 24.
So do we... M.Zaprauskis
76 Liepāja In Your Pocket
WALK OF FAME
Although not quite as impressive as the one in Hollywood,
this Walk of Fame boasts the hand prints of Latvia’s most
renowned rock and folk musicians.QZivju iela.
WOODEN ARCHITECTURE
Liepāja is a great place to see old wooden residential build-
ings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries usually topped
with a red tile roof. Although some look like they’re on the
verge of collapse, many others have been renovated and
some even house some of the city’s best accommodation.
ACTIVITIES & LEISURE
BLUE SHOCK RACE
With roughly 150m of indoor track, you can drive an elec-
tric go-kart at Blue Shock Race all year round! QVecā os-
tmala 22, tel. (+371) 27 88 00 35, www.blueshockrace.
com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults €13 - 20 / 10
minutes; kids €8 - 15 / 10 minutes. A
DZINTARA BOULINGS
In addition to eight modern bowling lanes this recreation
complex by the beach also offers a bar, restaurant, air hock-
ey, pool tables and a children’s area.QPeldu 66, tel. (+371)
63 48 00 80, www.dzintaraboulings.lv. Open 14:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A
HOUSE OF CRAFTSMEN (AMATNIEKU NAMS)
Not only can you browse through an impressive collection
of handmade ceramics, amber jewellery, leather work and
woven items in its salon, but you can also watch the crafts-
men make these beautiful items upstairs in their studios.
QDārza 4/8, tel. (+371) 26 54 14 24, www.saivaart.com.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: free.
KINO BALLE (BALLE CINEMA)
All of the latest Hollywood blockbusters.QRožu laukums
5/6, tel. (+371) 63 48 06 38, www.kinoballe.lv. A
LIEPĀJA OLYMPIC CENTRE POOL & SPA
This five-storey multifunctional sports centre is also home
to an incredible spa and pool complex that includes a
number of attractions including a large and small swim-
ming pool, hot tubs, Turkish steam room, aromatic sauna,
salt sauna, ice water pool, children’s playground and mas-
sage pools as well as a refreshment bar.QBrīvības 39, tel.
(+371) 63 48 38 88, www.loc.lv. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission: €12.50/
adult. Large pool open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A­T­L­W­C­D­F
TOURIST INFORMATION
LIEPĀJA REGION TOURISM INFORMATION
OFFICE
The friendly staff can arrange accommodation and pro-
vide a wide selection of tours, maps, guides and other
services including bicycle rental. You can also leave your
luggage with them during the day for small fee.QRožu
laukums 5/6, tel. (+371) 63 48 08 08, www.liepaja.travel.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (Octo-
ber - March). A
liepaja.inyourpocket.com
 Liepāja

facebook.com/rigainyourpocket October - November 2018 77

 Old Riga Walking Tour & Map
OLD RIGA WALKING TOUR
Begin at H-3, the Freedom Monument on the edge
of Old Riga and the famous Laima Clock, a Riga meet-
ing place for decades. Walk up to the top of G-2, Bastion
Hill for views of the canal and the park and to get the
lay of the land. Then walk across ZA Meierovica bulvāris
until you reach H-2, the ivy-covered Powder Tower and
the Museum of War next door. Next walk down Torņa.
The James’ Barracks on the right side of the street are
home to many trendy shops and cafés and remnants of
H-2, the Old City Walls are visible on the left side. Walk
left through the H-2, Swedish Gate and immediately
make a right on Trokšņu, one of Riga’s narrowest streets.
Go left, then straight between H-1, St. James Church
and the Saeima (parliament).
Make a left on Klostera to find H-1, the Three Brothers
ahead. Take a peak inside to see how medieval Europeans
once lived. Go right on Mazā Pils to Pils laukums where
you’ll find H-1, Riga Castle, which is also the Latvian
president’s office.
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials app
78 Riga In Your Pocket
Next walk up Pils to Cathedral Square (Doma lau-
kums). Take a tour of H-1, Riga Cathedral, its Roman-
esque cloister and the Riga Bourse Art Museum on
the opposite side of the square. Then walk down Tirgoņu
and take a break at one of its many pubs, restaurants and
cafés and then proceed to Kaļķu iela. Make another right
there and walk to I-2, thestunning House of Black-
heads, the new town hall, I-1 and the Latvian Rifle-
men Monument.
Next walk to where Grēcinieku and Kungu streets meet
to explore the I-2, Mentzendorff House. After a short
tour of the house continue down Grēcinieku (away from
the river) and make a left on Skārņu. You can take a look
at I-2, St. John’s Church on the right or walk to the
entrance of St. Peter’s on the left and take the lift up
to the top of the church for excellent views. On Skārņu
you’ll also find dozens of souvenir vendors. Walk into I-2,
John’s Courtyard (Jāņa sēta) and emerge on Kalēju.
Go left until you reach H-2, Livs’ Square (Līvu laukums)
which is home to H-2, the Great and Small Guildhalls,
the Chekov Russian Drama Theatre and the Cat
House as well as some beautiful medieval buildings.
This concludes your walking tour of Old Riga. You can en-
joy a warm cocktail or a cup of coffee at one of the restau-
rants here or just do some shopping.
If you’d like to see a video of this tour visit:
www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga.
riga.inyourpocket.com
 Index
9. Vilnis 16
11.novembra krastmala 24
Adenta 64
airBaltic 8
Airport Hotel Māra 69
Alberta iela 52
Aldaris Beer Museum 54
Alus arsenāls 36
Alus Celle 44
Alus muiža 44
Andalūzijas Suns 40
Area Tours 11
Arena Riga 20
ARS 64
Arsenāls Exhibition Hall 24
Art Café Sienna 29
AsparaGoose 30
Aussie Pub 49
Autentika 45
Auto 9
Bakeberry 30
Baltā pirts 63
Baltu Rotas 60
Belavia 8
Bellevue Park Hotel Riga 66
BENU aptieka 64
BIBLIOTĒKA No1 Restorāns Elektrokartings 63
38
Big Bad Bagels 26
Big Christopher 59
Biķernieku Track 16
Bon Vivant 27
Bowlero 62
Branchess 60
Brazīlija 62
Burger Studio 28
Bus Station 10
Č 48
Cadets de Gascogne 27
Canada 64
CarGuru 9
Castle of Light - National
Library 57
Cathedral Square 24
Central Market 57
Central Station 11
Četri Balti Krekli 48
Charlestons 27
Chez Olivier Cafe 29
Churchill Cocktail Saloon 47
City Clean 64
COD Bar 48
Coyote Fly 45
Daile Music House 20
Daile Theatre 24
Daugava Stadium 20
Delicio 30
Depo 16, 46
DM Bar Riga 40
OLD RIGA STREET REGISTER
11. novembra krast-
mala I-1/J-2
13. janvāra I/J-3
Aklā H-1
Akmens tilts J-1
Alberta laukums I-3
Aldaru H-2
Alksnāja I-2
Alunāna F-2
Amatu H-2
Anglikāņu H-1
Arsenāla H-1
Aspazijas bulv. H/I-3
Atgriežu H-1
Audēju I-2/3
Barona H-3
Basteja bv. (Z.A.
Meierovica) G/H-2
Bīskapa gāte I-1
82 Riga In Your Pocket
Dr. Beinert’s Clinic 65
Duvel’s Gastropub 32
Dzintari Concert Hall 20
Easy Wine 51
ECOLINES 10
Ervins & Filles 61
ESPA Riga 65
Europa Royale Riga 66
Flower Market 60
Folk Club Ala 16
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs 36, 49
Fontaine Delisnack Riga 50
Forum Cinemas 16
Forums 69
Freedom Monument 59
Friends 46
Funny Fox 40
Gallery Putti 61
Gauja 48
Grand Poet Café 29
Grand Poet Hotel by
Semarah 66
Great Guild 20
GunsnLasers 63
Hedonic SPA 65
High Voltage
Hotel Neiburgs 66
House of Blackheads 57
Indian Raja 32
International 32
Ireland 64
ITK 60
Jakob Lenz Guesthouse 68
Jāņa Sēta 60
Jews in Latvia Museum 54
Jockey Club 47
Joker klubs 62
kim? 24
Kinki 26, 29
Ķīpsala Hall 20
Kiwi Bar 40
KKC 48
Kolonāde. Our Stories 38
Krogs Aptieka 40
La Belle Époque 50
Labi 47
Labietis 45
Laima Chocolate Museum Nivāla 64
55
Laima Clock 58
Late Night Munchies 28
Latvian Ethnographic
Museum 16, 52
Latvian National Library 20
Latvian National Museum
of Art 55
Latvian National Opera &
Ballet 24
Brīvības G/H-3
Citadeles F/G-1
Doma laukums H-1
Elizabetes F-3
Freedom Mon. H-3
Gleznotāju H/I-2
Grēcinieku 1/2
Herdera lauk. H-1
Inženieru H-3
Jāņa I-2
Jāņa sēta I-2
Jaunavu H/I-2
Jauniela H/I-1
Jēkaba G/H-1
Jēkaba lauk. G-1
Jeruzalemes F-3
Kalēju I-2/3
Kaļķu H/I-2
Kalpaka bv. G-2/3
Latvian Radio Studio 1 20
Latvian Railway Museum 55
Latvian Riflemen
Monument 59
Latvian Sports Museum 55
Lauku Ceļotājs 68
Leningrad 42
Le Sommet 38
Liberty Hotel 68
Lielais Ķīnas Mūris 32
Limonāde 42
Live Riga Tourist
Information Centres 6
Līvu akvaparks 63
Local Wine & Wood 61
Lux Express 10
Mārtiņa beķereja 27
Matu Meistari 64
Melnā Bite 36
Melnā piektdiena 20
Mēness aptieka 65
Mentzendorff’s House 55
Metropole 32
Metropole Hotel by
Semarah 67
MiiT 38
Monika Centrum Hotel 67
Moonshine 20, 49
Moscow District bridge 59
Museum of Decorative Art
& Design 24
Museum of Decorative Arts
& Design 55
Museum of Riga’s History
and Navigation 56
Museum of Romans Suta
and Aleksandra Beļcova 56
MUUSU Terase 39
MyFitness 62
Naples 34
National History Museum
of Latvia 56
Naughty Squirrel
Backpackers Hostel 69
NB 44
Neiburgs 39
Nemiers 42
Netherlands 64
Old City Walls & Swedish
Gate 58
OlyBet Sports Bar 50
Olympic Casino - OlyBet 42
Olympic Sports Centre 62
Omas briljanta istaba 42
One One 47
Optibet Sports Bar 50
Orthodox Cathedral 53
Otrā Elpa 61
Ķēniņu H-2
Klostera H-1
Konventa Sēta I-2
Krāmu I-1/2
Kronvalda bv. F/G-1
Kungu I-2
Laima clock H-2
Laipu H-2
Līvu laukums H-2
Mārstaļu I/J-2
Mazā Miesnieku H-1
Mazā Monētu H/I-2
Mazā Muzeja H-1
Mazā Pils H-1
Mazā Smilšu H-2
Mazā Trokšņu H-1
Meistaru H-2
Merķeļa G/H-3
Miesnieku H-1
Paddy Whelan’s Irish Pub &
Sports Bar 50
Palladium Rīga 20
Pelmeņi XL 30
Pepsi centrs 62
Piazza Italiana 34
Pieci Vilki 42
Piens 47
Pizza Lulū 50
Powder Tower 58
Pūce 47
Radisson Blu Daugava
Hotel 67
Radisson Blu Elizabete
Hotel 67
Radisson Blu Latvija
Conference & Spa Hotel 67
Radisson Blu Ridzene Hotel Sweden 64
66
Raritāte 60
Real Quest 62
Red Cab 11
RigaApartment Gertruda 68
RigaApartment Sonada 68
Riga Art Nouveau Museum The Armoury Bar 44
56
Riga Bourse Art Museum 56
Riga Castle 58
Riga Cathedral 24, 52
Riga Congress Centre 24
Riga International Airport 8
Riga National Zoo 58
Riga Old Town Hostel 69
Riga Passenger Terminal 9
Rīgas Balzams 42
Riga Shooting Center 62
Rīgas Tinte 65
Riga Synagogue 54
Riga Top Hair 64
RISEBA Architecture and
Media Centre H2O 6 24
Rixwell Gertrude Hotel 69
Rixwell Hotel Konventa
Sēta 69
Rixwell Old Riga Palace
Hotel 69
Rocket Bean Roastery 30
RTU Ķīpsala Swimming
Pool 63
Runcis 50
Ryanair 8
Samurai Sushi 35
SAS Scandinavian Airlines 9
Skonto Stadium 24
Skrivanek Latvia 65
Sky & More 61
SL Casino Riga 42
Small Guild 24
Snob Bar & Restaurant 39
Minsterejas J-2
Mucenieku H-2
Muitas G-1
Mūku H-1
Palasta I-1
Pasta J-2
Peitavas I-2
Peldu I-2
Pēterbaznīcas I-2
Pils H-1
Pils laukums H-1
Prāgas J-3
Pumpura F-2
Radio I-3
Raiņa bulvāris G-2/H-3
Rātslaukums I-1/2
Reimersa G-2
Rīdzenes I-3
Rozena H-1
Skārņu I-2
Šķūņu H-2
riga.inyourpocket.com
Sokrats 34
Soraksans 35
Soviet Victory Monument
59
Spīķeri 24
Spirits & Wine 60
Splendid Palace 16
Spot Kafé 48
Steiku Haoss 38
St. James Cathedral 53
St. John’s Church 24, 53
Stockmann 61
St. Peter’s Boutique Hotel 67
St. Peter’s Church 24, 52
Strada 29
Street Burgers 28
Sveiks, Šveik! 32
T73 Gastrobar 32
Tallink 9
Tavex 64
Taxify 11
Tēvocis Vaņa 38
Tex-Mex Republic 36, 50
The Catch 35
The Left Door Bar 48
The Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia (1940
- 1991) 53
Tinto 51
TOP Club Riga 46
Travel2Riga 48
Trompete Taproom 49
Turkish Airlines 9
Two Wheels Hotel 68
Ukraine International
Airlines 9
United Kingdom 64
United States of America 64
Uzbegims 30
Vairāk Saules 34
Valda Ošiņa rakstāmlietas
64
Valters un Rapa 60
VEF Culture Centre 24
Victory Pub 50
Vīna Studija 51
Volmar 60
Wellton Centrum Hotel &
SPA 68
Wicked Weasel Hostel 69
Wizz Air 9
Wok n Kurry 26
Žanis Lipke Memorial
Museum 54
Ze Sukin San 26
Ziemeļu Enkurs 45
Zivju Lete 38
Smilšu H-1/2
Strēlnieku laukums I-1
Teātra I-2/3
Tirgoņu H/I-2
Torņa G-1/H-2
Trokšņu H-2
Ūdensvada I-2
Vāgnera H/I-2
Valdemāra G-1/F-2/3
Vaļņu H-2/I-3
Vecpilsētas I-3
Vingrotāju F-2
Z.A. Meierovica
(Basteja bulvāris)
G/H-2
Zirgu H-2
Bus Station J-3
Riga Info Centre I-2
Freedom
Monument H-3