Kimono, Kimono Fabric & Japanese

Clothing
Kimono site has info on japanese kimono, japanese clothing, kimono fabrics, patterns
and japanese yukata robes. How to tie an obi sash, how to wear yukata robes, make a
kimono, wear hakama pants, types of japanese shoes including; zori, geta sandals and
tabi socks.

Welcome to Japanese Kimono!

Kimono, meaning clothing in Japanese, is perhaps one of Japan's
most beautiful treasure. I would like to share with you the beauty of
the japanese kimono, kimono fabric and pattern, types of japanese
clothing, kimono culture and the history of the Japanese kimono.

Kimono

The word kimono simply means things to wear and is pronounced

kee-mo-no. The plural of kimono is simply kimono. The kimono has had a long
history in Japan and the kimono has changed over time to reflect the society and
culture of that period.

Today, a Japanese woman usually owns only one kimono typically a furosode kimono
which is worn for the coming of age ceremony on her 19th birthday. For weddings,
the complete bridal kimono and kimono apparel is usually rented. Kimono are also
very rarely worn as every day clothing anymore. Occasionally, if you go to a small
rural town in Japan or one of small islands like Okinawa, you will see the traditional
every day kimono worn by elders. To learn about the kimono history click the next
button.

Kimono History
The kimono has had a long history in Japan and the kimono has changed over time to
reflect the society and culture of that period.

During the Heian period 794-1185, the custom of elaborate layers of colored kimono
robes became popular with Japanese women. Jun-hitoe, twelve unlined robes were
frequently worn with the sleeve edges and collars showing the shades of each kimono.
Persons of the royal court sometimes wore up to sixteen kimono layers. During the
Kamakura period of 1185-1133 with the rising influence of the military class and
warriors, people had no patience or need for elaborate kimono. Practicality prevailed
and during this period the kosode meaning small sleeve was introduced into the
kimono.

In 1615, military leader Tokugawa moved the capital of Japan from Kyoto, where the
emperor resided to Edo, the present day Tokyo. Confucianism was adopted and
hierarchy became the guiding principle where citizens were ranked based on their
class. During the Edo period, people began to define their status by their kimono
clothing. During this time the greatest artistic accomplishments were made with the
kimono.

After 1853, the US Navy sailed to Tokyo and the beginning of Japan's commercial
industry was opened to the Western world. Although Japanese people continued to
wear the kimono for another hundred years, the beginning of the end of this practice
was near.

During the Meiji period of 1868-1912, women began working outside their homes
and required different clothing to accommodate their work. The Japanese people
developed techniques to compete with the machine woven cloth available from the
West. Cloth from other parts of the world were bought to make the kimono and the
clothing. During the Taisho period of 1912-1926, Tokyo suffered a devastating
earthquake which leveled most of the homes. Many of the old kimono were lost at this
time.

During the Showa period 1926-1989, the japanese government curtailed silk
production by taxing it to support the military buildup. Kimono designs became less
complex and material was conserved. After World War II, as Japan's economy
gradually recovered, kimono became even more affordable and were produced in
greater quantities. Europe and America fashion ideas affected the kimono designs and
motifs, but their shape remained the same. Kimono and obi colors changed with the
season and with the age and status of the wearer.

Kimono Fabric History

Textiles are perhaps the greatest treasure in Japan's remarkable century old tradition
of handicrafts. The Japanese techniques of weaving and
dyeing was originally borrowed from Korea and China. In
the eighth century, tribute between Japan and her
neighboring countries, Korea and China was presented in
bolts of silk and brocade. Over the centuries, the Japanese
treasured and studied those textile offerings and began
producing their own. The japanese have developed it to a
level rarely seen elsewhere. The unmatched skills and
refined aesthetic have combined to produce some of
Japan's finest treasures.
 Since ancient times, textiles have been revered in Japan. According to legend,
when the angry sun goddess plunged the world into darkness by hiding in a
cave, other divinities enticed her out with a dance of blue and white textile
banners.

How to Make a Kimono

As the traditional textiles of Japan were made primarily for personal attire, what we
know today as the kimono determined not only the construction of the weaves and the
patterning of the fabric but also the width of the cloth itself. A single bolt, or "tan", of
cloth measures approximately 9 meters in length and 30 centimeters in width. This is
sufficient to make one kimono, whether for men or for women regardless of height
and weight. Thus kimono fabrics as a rule are sold by the bolt and rarely by the meter.

Kimono Pattern
The kimono pattern consists of four main strips of fabric. Two patterns form the
panels covering the body and two panels for the sleeves. Additional smaller strips
form the narrow front panel and collar.

Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal.
Formal kimono have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem.
Originally, the kimono were worn in multiple layers of different colors. Up to a dozen
or more colorful layers of contrasting colored kimono would be worn. Today, the
kimono is normally worn with a single layer on top of a slip style undergarment.

The Kimono Pattern Parts

Sodetsuke - kimono armhole

Miyatsukuchi - opening under the sleeve
Furi - sleeve below the armhole
Ushiromigoro - back main section
Fuki - hem gaurd
Yuki - sleeve length

Sode-guchi - sleeve opening

Sode - sleeve
Tamoto - sleeve pouch
Eri - collar
Doura - upper lining
Okumi - front inside panel
Maemigoro - front main panel
Susomawashi - lower lining
Tomoeri - over collar
Uraeri - inner collar

The Changing of the Kimono Fabric

The formal kimono and obi belts were traditionally made of silk, silk brocade, silk
crepes such as cherimen and satin weaves such as rinzu. Due to production costs,
limited availability of skilled weavers and craftsman and the consumers economic and
"easy care" demand, the kimono industry is striving to capture the demands by
producing kimono of "easy care" casual type fabric. Today, most formal kimono are
made of rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers except for
the traditional wedding kimono.

How to Wear a Kimono

How to Wear a Kimono

Traditionally, the art of wearing a kimono is passed from mother to
daughter. Today, there are also kimono schools that teach the proper
techniques of how to wear a kimono. Below is a step by step basics
of how to wear a kimono properly.

Kimono Under Garments

An under garment like a slip is
worn under the kimono with the
collar showing beneath the kimono. The two
pieces full slip is called juban. Today, many
women just wear the collar called eri-sugata
because it is much cooler and still gives the formal
appearance.
How to Wear a Kimono Instructions

1. Always, put on white tabi socks first. It is difficult to bend to put on socks
after the full kimono and belt is on.
2. Put on the undergarment slips called juban consisting of a white cotton top and
skirt. Today, an alternative is to wear only the white collar that goes around
the neck called the eri-sugata.
3. Put on the kimono, making sure the back seam is centered.
4. For both men and women, wrap the right side of the kimono over the body,
then overlap it with the left side. Right on top of the left is only used to dress a
corpse for burial.
5. Adjust the white slip collar to show evenly around the neck just under the
kimono collar as shown in the above pictures.
6. Don't worry if the kimono is too long for it is supposed to be.
7. See our obi section to learn how to tie the different types of belts over the
kimono and the next step to wearing a kimono.

For both men and women, always wrap the right side of the kimono over the body,
then overlap it with the left side. Right on top of the left is only used to dress a corpse
for burial.

How to Tie an Obi Sash and Belt

Contrary to belief, the traditional obi belt is actually comprised of many belts. Below
are instructions on how to tie each belt over the kimono.

1. After you have put on your kimono per the steps shown on the page How to
Wear a Kimono.
2. Pull up the kimono material so the length of the kimono is at the ankle. The
length of the kimono is always adjusted which is why there are only a few
lengths made by the manufacturer.
3. As you hold the extra material above your waist, tie the koshi-himo belt
below the excess material. Cross the belt in the back and tie it in the front.
4. Straighten out the excess material to the side so that the front and the back of
the kimono are smooth.
5. Bring down the excess material to cover the belt.
 6. Take the date-jime belt and wrap it around your waist covering the koshi-
himo belt. Tie the date-jime belt in the front leaving the overlapping kimono
fabric visible below. The excess kimono fabric should hang evenly below the
belt so that the fabric is seen as shown in the picture above.

The traditional long obi can be very difficult to tie depending on the style of bow
made. Many times, another person will tie the belt for you. There are many styles of
different ties that can be made with the belt. Below is information on pre-tied obi belts
and how to tie your own butterfly bow. The obi-jime is the last belt tied around the
obi belt as shown in the picture above.

Formal Obi Belts

A woman's formal obi is usually 4 meters long and 60
centimeters in width. The width is folded in half and the obi is
wrapped twice around the waist and then tied in the back. Formal
obi belts are made of a brocade or tapestry weave. The more
pattern, the more formal is the basic rule. Today, an obi
completely covered in its entirety with woven or embroidered
design are now normally worn by a bride.

Casual Obi Sash

Obi for casual wear may be as
narrow as 10 centimeters or as wide as 30
centimeters. They are are usually made of satin,
twill, chirimen, gauze weaves, cotton, nylon or
wool. The main difference between the formal obi
and the casual obi is the material. Casual obi are not
made of silk and do not have the elaborate silk
brocade embroidered patterns. Although called casual, many are not casual looking at
all. It is worn both with the kimono and the summer kimono "yukata".

1) Koshi-Himo Sash
The koshi-himo belt is the first belt tied around the
waist. The belt is available in a variety of styles,
materials and some newer styles even have velcro.
The koshi-himo belt shown here is made of tye-
dyed silk.
 2) Date-Jime Belt
The date-jime belt is the second belt tied around the
kimono covering the first koshi-himo belt.

2) Obi - Jime
The obi-jimi is a braided cord tied on top of the obi.
Because the obi-jime is visible, it comes in a
variety of colors and the color is chosen to
compliment the obi.

Butterfly Obi Belts

This obi is a pre-tied belt that gives the impression of the
complicated tied obi but is very simple to put on. The tied bow
shape is called cho cho for the bow resembles the butterfly,
thus giving it the name butterfly obi. The belt consists of two
pieces; the wide belt and the bow. The belt is 5 feet in length
and 6 inches in width The belt is wrapped twice around the waist and tucked under.
The bow has a wire hanger to insert into the wrapped around belt. You can find
butterfly obi belts at JapaneseGifts.com.

Tie your Own Butterfly Obi

Below are instructions on how to tie a single tie butterfly obi by yourself with a long
traditional belt. The finished bow will look as the yellow portion of the picture shown
above (basically a single tied bow). To tie the bow yourself, the bow will be tied in
the front and the obi belt will be twisted after it is done so the bow is in the back.

1. Place the long obi fabric around the waist with the ends toward the front.
Position the obi fabric so that about 50 cm of the belt is in your left hand and
wrap it once more around the waist.
2. Overlap the ends of the obi toward the front so that it crosses over and tie the
belt once with the right end over the left.
3. You will now have one shorter end towards the top and one long end hanging
down. Twist the tie so that the short end goes over your right shoulder.
4. Fold the long bottom end in half or twice to get the size bow you want. This
end is the actual right and left side of the bow.
5. To make the center tie that holds the bow together, take the end that is over
your shoulder and wrap it around the center of your folded piece several times.
Any excess portion of the belt should be hidden underneath.
 6. Turn the belt around toward your back.

Mens Obi Belts

There are two main types of men's obi belts used with
men's kimono and summer kimono (yukata). They are
either called kaku or heko.

The stiff belt as shown above and are called kaku obi. The kaku obi is
about 3.5 inches in width and made of cotton. The soft obi sash is
called a heko obi and is normally free flowing and made of tye-dyed
fabrics.

Men's Japanese Kimono

Men's Kimono
Kimono were traditionally worn by men as daily wear
clothing, but today they are usually only worn for festivals,
ceremonies, special occasions and as kimono robes. Men's
kimono, like women's can can range from simple to elaborate
patterns. Popular kimono patterns include dragons, koi and
masculine designs and generally are conservative in color. The
kimono background color is usually blue, black, gray or brown
with contrasting designs. Kimono with scenes and motifs
include; dragons, kanji symbols, bamboo canes or geometric
patterns.

The sleeves for men's kimono are are completely sewn closed
under the arm in comparison with the open underarm sleeve on
women's kimono. The underarm portion is called tamoto in
Japanese.

The kimono comes from the manufacturer with a matching sash belt. For special
occasions, the kimono is worn with a kaku or heko obi belt. For more information
about the belts, please see the obi belts page.
To wear a kimono, wrap the right side of the kimono over the body, then overlap it
with the left side. Right on top of the left is only used to dress a corpse for burial.

Japanese Shoes and Japanese

Sandals

The two basic types of japanese sandals or japanese shoes is

the geta and the zori. The length of the kimono is normally
adjusted to hang just at the ankle displaying both the
japanese shoes and socks. Japanese sandals and shoes come
in a variety of colors and styles, red and black being the most
popular. Japanese manufacturers now make japanese sandals,
purses and japanese hair combs to match the exact pattern of
the kimono to complete the ensemble. Click next to learn
about the zori japanese sandal, geta japanese shoes and the
japanese tabi socks.

Geta Sandals
The geta sandal was termed geta because of the "clack clack"
sound they made when walking. Geta sandals are any sandal with a separate heel. The
wooden geta sandal is the most well known by Americans for the beautiful pictures
seen of geisha women. However, there are many other types of geta sandals including
those made of vinyl.
 Wooden geta have a slightly tapered front
heal, making the person lean forward with
each step. Geta sandals are not easy for some
people to walk on and takes practice to walk
correctly.

The geta sandals shown on the right have a separate heel thus are called geta. The
vinyl geta is the most popular geta worn for formal occasions with the kimono. The
thongs are normally made of velvet or vinyl and come in a variety of colors.

Tabi - Tabi Boots, Tabi Socks

Tabi
Tabi or also called tabi boots or tabi socks are a japanese sock that have a split in the
sock for the large toe so that they may comfortably be worn with sandals. There are
two basic types of tabi. The odori tabi socks which people call the tabi boot or the
stretch tabi socks.

Tabi - Tabi Boots

Tabi or also called tabi boots are called odori.
Odori tabi socks are made of cotton and have a vinyl sole bottom with clasps on the
back. The term tabi boot was coined by westerners for the sock goes past the ankle
and resemble boots. Odori tabi socks are purchased to the exact fit of the persons foot.
The tabi are popular among traditional japanese dancers and theater artists. The vinyl
sole bottom of the tabi protects their feet since japanese shoes are not normally worn
during performances. However, the odori tabi socks are difficult to maintain because
they must be hand washed and line dried so they will not shrink.

Tabi - Tabi Socks

Stretch tabi socks are the newest rage in japanese
socks. Made of 100% nylon, the stretch tabi basically
comes in two sizes and are easy to fit any person.
The light weight stretchy fabric makes them very
comfortable, can be machine washed and are quick to
put on, just like American socks. Stretch tabi socks
are the most versatile and most commonly worn tabi
when worn with japanese sandals. For quality
Japanese tabi socks visit JapaneseGifts.com. They
have several sizes and available in either white or black.

Wedding Kimono the Japanese

Wedding Dress

The traditional white japanese wedding

kimono is called shiro-maku. Shiro meaning
white and maku meaning pure. The wedding
kimono actually consists of two different
kimono. The white wedding kimono is worn
for the wedding ceremony and an elaborate
rich patterned silk brocade kimono called
uchikake is worn over the white kimono at
the wedding reception.
 The bright and colorful uchikake kimono originated
in the Edo era and originally only worn by court
nobles. The kimono is made of silk and silk brocade.
Rich in fine embroidered patterns, the uchikake is
embellised with scenes of flowers, cranes, pines,
flower carts or nature motifs. While red is the most
popular color for the uchikake kimono, there are
many different colors available from a stunning
imperial purple to sea green. The bridal kimono is
sometimes handed down in the family or made into
futon bedding later in life.

In a traditional Japanese wedding, the brides hair is

also styled in the traditional hair style called bunkin-
takashimada and adorned with beautiful gold combs
and accessories called kanzashi. A white wedding
hood called tsuno kakushi is meant to hide two front
golden "tsuno" or horns during the wedding
ceremony to symbolize obedience.

Like American weddings, there are traditional wedding accessories that are worn for
tradition and are said to bring good luck. The bride carries a small purse style sack
called hakoseko and a small encased sword called kaiken. Lastly, a fan is worn in the
obi belt for tradition holds that the gradual widening of the open fan implies happiness
and thus brings a happy future. JapaneseWeddingFavors.com carries a wonderful
selection of Japanese wedding favors, wedding presentation ideas and information on
Japanese wedding and Japanese wedding traditions.

Happi Coat & Japanese Festival

Clothing

Happi coats originated as Japanese over coats traditionally worn by shop keepers. The
family crest, shop name or emblem was printed on
the back of the coat. Today, happi coats are still used
by some shop keepers, however happi coats are
widely used for Japanese festivals, parties and sushi
restaurants.

In the past decade, the happi coat has also taken on a

new use as a "robe". Manufacturers now make short versions of the traditional yukata
and kimono solely for use as a short robe. The short robe is called a happi. Today, the
term happi is used for any short or mid-length clothing. The happi has become very
popular for use as beach robes, night attire and bath robes for they are very attractive.
Happi coats and happi robes come in a variety of colors and designs from a simple
single color fabric with a small embroidered symbol to an elaborate four color printed
design.

Happi coats used mainly for Japanese festivals are

called a matsuri happi coats meaning "festival"
coat. The happi coats come in a variety of styles
and colors both imprinted or plain. Some have a
kanji symbol on the back, others have an
imprinted scenery or they are a solid print of one
or two colors. Matsuri happi coats are
traditionally worn over a t-shirt with shorts or
pants.

Short sleeved happi coats called a "taiko happi

coat" are used at japanese festivals by taiko
drummers.

Japanese
restaurants
use a special chefs happi coat called a hippari.
The chefs happi coat is much like the
traditional coat except it has a small belt that
ties inside the coat.

All images and text © JapaneseKimono.com and cannot be used without written
permission
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All images and text © JapaneseKimono.com and cannot be used without written
permission