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" This exhibition serves a double pur
pose: First, of calling the attention of the
general public to the really excellent col
lection of textiles owned in New York City
bymuseumsand privatecollectors;second,
of placing before the manufacturers and
designers active in the textile trade historic
examples of the best work of past centuries,
which may provide a stimulus to artistic
production at a time when American makers
are feeling the large possibilities the present
moment affords to home industries. One
of the most noticeable results of the
European war has been the great difference
made in the textile trade either through
interference
with international
transporta
tion, or through the closing of most of the
continentalfactories
whichhave previously
supplied the American market with-a large
portion of the woven materials used in this
country. A purchaser now making the
rounds of the shops finds that perhaps half
of the familiar fabrics he ismost anxious to
secure were manufactured in Belgium and
in Alsace-Lorraine, and that American
THE BREEZE E. STANTONKING merchants, since the complete demoraliza
PRIZEINCOMMERCIAL
ART
ARTISTS
MINNEAPOLIS
EXIIIBITION
A special exhibition of
A TEXTILE
textiles is being held in
EXHIBITION theMetropolitanMuseum,
New York. This exhibitionwas opened in
December, and will remain on view up to
ARTHUR ETHEL M. FARNSWORTH
the earlypart of February. Only shuttle PRIZEINDILAWLNO
and bobbin-wovenstuffsare included. EXHIBITION
MINNEAPOLIS
ARTISTS
163
164 THEAMERICAN
MAGAZINE
OFART
tion of that region, have of course been girls in carefully investigated factories and
unable to fill their depleted stocks from offices. At that time no other organization
abroad and are obliged to withdraw almost was doing this work and many girls came to
all foreign samples from the market. The the Bureau because they knew that its
French factories which existed in con places were investigated. Soon the girls
siderable numbers in the vicinity of Lille and women began to bring their brothers
and Liege, are now inactive and partly and it was necessary to organize a Boys'
destroyed, while many workmen from Department. This Department places boys
the mills in other parts of the country have between the ages of fourteen and eighteen,
gone to the front, as a result of which the the aim being to get them "started right."
industryispracticallyparalyzedthroughoutAbout ten years ago art workers began to
France. The English factories are not so apply and in 1907 the Art Workers' Depart
seriously affected, but their output has been ment was organized. The policy which had
somewhat diminished, and they cannot governed the Bureau in its other depart
pretend to fill the place of the inactive con ments was applied here, and the workers in
tinental mills. The closing of European commercial art are placed only after a
sources is a circumstance of which American careful investigation of the opportunities
manufacturers are preparing to take ad offered. Since the opening of the Art
vantage, and a distinct improvement in the Workers' Department men and women have
output of our national looms may be ex been placed in the following lines: Fashion
pected as one of the better things growing work, design,.advertising,art novelties,
out of the war. The First National Con coloring, etc. Boys have been placed in
vention of Silk Manufacturers, recently the offices of architects and with engravers
held at Paterson, was enthusiastically at and lithographers. The Bureau also secures
tended, one of the features of the meeting work for contracting colorists and for
being a loan exhibition of historic textiles artists who do special order work in their
arranged in the City Hall, to which many own studios.
museums, private collectors and dealers The young women who are graduated
contributed. The interest of the manu from the art schools are sometimes lacking
facturers in the finer productions of the past in business experience, and the Bureau has
has been constantly growing, and it is in advised a number of them to take places
response to this that the Museum has with fashion illustrators as apprentices
organized the exhibition just opened. ... without salary. These young women are
" An illustrated catalogue of the ex helped by the valuable criticism of ex
hibition has been issued, as detailed in its perienced workers and receive a salary just
references as circumstances per mi t ted. as soon as their work warrants it. The
It gives a resume of the history of weaving progress of these apprentices is carefully
in its various aspects, and has been prepared watched by the Bureau, and care is taken
in the hope that it will serve not only as an to protect their interests. Indeed, the
aid to visitors who may see the exhibition, Bureau, in all its departments, finds em
but also as a compact book of reference for ployers willing and eager to cooperate if
future use. Besides the catalogue, post only they can be assured of desirable
cards of some of the finer fabrics in the workers.
Museum collection are on sale." The Alliance Employment Bureau is
The Bulletin of theMetropolitan Museum. semi-philanthropic, any deficiencies in its
running expenses being met by subscrip
One of the great problems tions and donations from those interested.
EMPLOYMENT
FOR of developmentin connec The charges to its applicants are nominal,
tion with the upbuilding of being only 10 per cent. of the firstweek's
ART WORKERS
art in this country is salary for all places paying under $10 a
provision of a livelihood in this field. The week, and 20 per cent. for all places paying
Alliance Employment Bureau of 64 Madi $10 a week or more. The fee for special
son Avenue, New York City, gives good order work is 10 per cent. of the amount of
assistance in this direction. It was or the first order.
ganized in 1890 for the purpose of placing The Art Workers' Department aims to be