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The refueling probe on the right side A reconnaissance camera pod that A parallel type chin pad is equipped In addition to the D type exclusive
of the nose can select the deployed reproduces internal camera parts. on the underside of the nose. The injection seat, the current US Navy
state and the stored state. Vulcan cannon on the left side lue gas pilot specification without a visor case
slit also reproduces the diferences is also highlighted. The canopy reproducing
with the A type. the bubble type cross section can be
opened and closed after completion.
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• Detailed step-by-step instructions and stunning
full-color photos.
• Creative weathering tips and techniques from
international experts.
From kitbashing a sci-fi drone and crash site, to adding
graffiti to a junkyard locomotive, you’ll learn the latest
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CONTENTS ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1812
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58
FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Media Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187.
Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional oices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.
lebrating
Ce
50
Years
1968-2018
S
ome consider working with resin — a Kiowa copter, metal foil B-29, a And now for something com-
as easy as styrene, while others snazzy Abrams tank, and “Atomic pletely diferent ... We know you’ll
ind resin somewhat more dii- Annie,” an atomic cannon — FSM’s also want to pick up an issue of our
cult. We want modelers to feel com- Digital Editor Elizabeth Nash dishes new premium title, Damaged,
fortable working with any material, so up a fun read on how to create a near Weathered and Worn Models. his is
this issue we go with a big resin igure perfect modeling work space. (Can it published in Europe by AK-
as the focus of our cover story. ever be perfect?) here’s something Interactive and now we are publish-
FSM’s Aaron Skinner shows just for everyone here, and she uses read- ing it for North American readers.
how gorgeous a igure you can create ers’ ideas and examples of what Damaged is a larger format maga-
from resin with Moebius’ Wonder they’ve done in their homes to bolster zine on high-quality paper with
Woman. his is the Gal Gadot-based their workbench, etc. We hope these excellent photos and stories from the
igure, the most recent movie version will help you improve your work world’s top modelers. It focuses on
of the comics character, and Aaron area. You do spend a lot of time there, tips and techniques for building
takes you through the painting tech- right? models and dioramas from all realms.
niques that lead to a spectacular fan- *** he fall issue is the premier issue,
tasy igure, or any other resin igure Now a word from our sponsor. with three more exciting issues
you may desire. Well, OK, just me still. Last month I planned for release in 2019.
We also include a Form & Figure plugged our annual special issue, Buy early and often, before they’re
column on painting the Hulk (spoiler Great War Scale Modeling, that gone!
alert, you’ll need a lot of green paint). focuses on World War I.
Plus there’s a quick look at Bandai’s But I want to remind you it has
snappy Gundam warriors and how to just gone on sale, so buy a copy. In
paint them for maximum impact. addition to WWI models we ill the
While we have a collection of ine tail end of the issue with great photos
military modeling stories (as usual) from this year’s big shows. editor@FineScale.com
In fall it’s visiting a local apple I love Halloween! Our neighbor- January 1st. High Noon. It’s the sharing of oplatek, a
orchard for cider, apples, and hood has designated trick-or- Lakeside. It’s time for the annual small rectangular wafer usually
pears. At Christmas it’s the tasty treat hours, so my wife and I like Polar Bear Plunge! We use embossed with the Nativity
stollen my wife bakes and our to sit outside with something to sledgehammers to bust through scene. Everyone receives one
Christmas Eve party for the drink — hot chocolate if it’s cold, the ice and jump in. There are and shares it with each family
“orphan” families at church. And something stronger if it’s warm only two rules: no wetsuits and member by breaking off a small
in summer, it’s visiting the — and hand out candy. It’s fun you must submerge completely. piece and wishing them good
Wisconsin State Fair. to see which costumes are the You can stay in as long as you wishes and love. This is a Polish
most popular from one year to want, which, for most people, is tradition usually done right
the next. approximately 2.8 seconds! before Christmas Eve dinner.
Even the dog gets a piece!
www.FineScale.com 5
FREE
SHIPPING!
On ANY Order Over $75* Editor Mark Savage
Art Director Tom Danneman
when you place your order online at
www.micromark.com EDITORIAL
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner
Digital Editor Elizabeth Nash
& Enter Promo Code 4427 Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
ART
NEW! Doctor Senior Graphic Designer Scott Krall
Senior Graphic Designer Drew Halverson
DryBooth Cuts Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Photographer William Zuback
Production Coordinator Cindy Barder
Drying Time CONTRIBUTING MODELERS
in Half! Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper,
Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green,
Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low,
#88043 Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts,
Doctor DryBooth Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn,
Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder
KALMBACH MEDIA
Chief Executive Officer Dan Hickey
*Free Shipping offer applies to standard shipping to the 48 contiguous United States ONLY. Senior Vice President, Finance Christine Metcalf
Cannot be combined with any other offer. Offer is guaranteed through 12/31/18. Vice President, Content Stephen C. George
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Vice President, Operations Brian J. Schmidt
Vice President, Human Resources Sarah A. Horner
ScaleAutoMagazine
6 FineScale Modeler December 2018
SCALE TALK
Your voice in FSM
www.FineScale.com 7
ARA Press
The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ SCALE TALK
One-Stop Data Shop!
www.FineScale.com 9
NEW PRODUCTS
Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner
Spotlight
Revell is back!
Word inally is out that the early kits will be in hobby
Revell USA is back in busi- shops and other model retail-
ness with oices and a ware- ers' stores now too. Aguilera
house in Northlake, Ill. said Revell is excited to be
(suburban Chicago). Plus it back in the U.S. market and
announced one all new kit, a especially happy to have 10
1968 Chevy Chevelle SS 396. kits, including the all-new will now occur. Aguilera said radio-control product lines.
Lou Aguilera, Revell Chevelle, to relaunch the sales and marketing for the Aguilera also added that
USA’s president, told brand this fall. US market will take place in Revell Germany products are
FineScale Modeler, that new Revell Inc.’s oices were the Illinois oice. arriving at the US warehouse
kit shipments are arriving closed in April after Hobbico, He said the US distribution to expand the US product
now and shipments of Revell which owned Revell, declared channel will be much as it was line. A lot of new items are in
kits to distributors is under- bankruptcy and sold Revell’s before the ownership change the development pipeline too,
way. He said additional kits assets to a German investment and before Hobbico’s closure. he said, estimating about 60
from Revell Germany, which group that consolidated the Included will be Horizon products in production,
owns Revell USA, will be business under Revell Hobby in Champaign, Ill., including the restock of exist-
arriving about the time you Germany, where all engineer- which bought much of ing items and production of
read this. It’s likely some of ing and product development Hobbico’s facilities and its new releases. – Mark Savage
AIRCRAFT KITS
1/32 SCALE
1/48 SCALE
Work Bench Review RF-101C & C/H VooDoo from Kitty Hawk, No.
80116, $79.99.
Look for a detailed review (WBR) in an PZL 37A Łoś Polish medium bomber from
upcoming issue of FineScale Modeler. IBG Models, No. 72511, $34.95.
ARMOR KITS
1/24 SCALE
Chevrolet ield artillery tractor (FAT-4) M3A1 Lee CDL from Takom, No. 2115, $59.95.
from IBG Models, No. 35044, $49.95.
M48 AVLB (armored vehicle launched German Panzerkampfwagen II (Flamm) M43 Ambulance from Roden, No. 811,
bridge) from Dragon Models, No. DRA3606, Ausf.E SdKfz.122 from Bronco Models, $49.99. WBR
$79.99. No. CB35124, $34.95. WBR
www.FineScale.com 11
NEW PRODUCTS
M1 IP Abrams MBT from Panda Models, No. 917t Japanese truck (Yokohama cab)
PH-35038, $58. 1938 from IBG Models, No. 72060, $23.95.
Figure included.
1/48 SCALE
Winnie the Poo Too from
Fündekals, $TBA.
Tankietka TKS z CKM Hotchkiss wz.25 M4A1Sherman from Dragon, No. DRA7568,
from IBG Models, No. 35045, $39.99. $17.99.
BGU-32 Thermally
Protected from
Hawker Hunter Mk.6 Eduard, No. 648396,
Part 2 from Hannants/ RAF XV Squadron $19.95.
Xtradecal, No. X48191, History from Hannants/
$11.75. Xtradecal, No. X72305,
$10.75.
Bf 109G-10 cock-
pit from Eduard, No.
648422, $39.95.
www.FineScale.com 13
NEW PRODUCTS
SCIFI DETAILS 1/48 SCALE
US Motor Grader from
1/537 SCALE Plus Model, No. 4031,
$92.10. 159 resin parts,
Reit Enterprise engine photoetch and decals.
grills from ParaGraix, No.
PGX215, $19.95.
MISCELLANEOUS
1/35 SCALE
Gas bottles from Plus
Model, No. 518, $25.50.
Snow covered road (section) from All Church corner in ruins, Central Europe
Diorama, No. ADV008, $138. from All Diorama, No. ADC002, $83.
FAV EDITOR
Attention Scale Modelers — ORIT
ES!
tools can
Using the best modeling
hen you’re
make all the difference w
your model
assembling and finishing
we asked
aircraft, ship, or armor. So
Modeler to
the editors of FineScale
tions.
share their recommenda
www.FineScale.com 15
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING
By Scott Lords
W
hen I built Tamiya’s 1/48 scale P-47D, I
wanted to build a plane from the 395th Scott, a high school
history and govern-
Fighter Squadron named Miss Second Front. ment teacher from
I didn’t have decals, which isn’t a problem for stripes Idaho Falls, Idaho,
— easy to paint — and insignia — kit decals to the res- has been building
models since he
cue. But the hunderbolt bore extensive nose art. Instead was a kid. While his
of trying to print it, I did it the way it was done on the primary interest is
original plane: I painted the nose art. World War II air-
craft, he likes to mix
Savvy readers will notice that although the girl on the in a WW I biplane
real plane is topless, she is clothed on my model. I dis- or Cold War-era jet
and even has a few
play many of my models in my classroom, along with armor kits in his “to-build” stack. He and his wife,
some World War II homefront collectibles and I worried Carrie, collect WWII homefront memorabilia and
that nudity in my classroom, even on this small a scale, have transformed their basement into a mini-
museum. “It’s been wonderful to have a wife that
could cause me headaches with parents and administra- not only puts up with my modeling, but shares my
tors. So, I opted to put a top on her. passion for the history behind it,” he says.
3 4 5 6
After spraying the area with a I sprayed blue for the background Removing all of the masks Using a 2/0 brush, I hand-painted
flesh color mixed by adding a little and masked the area before revealed the outline of the basic the details. Mixing different ratios
Testors Model Master leather to airbrushing the camouflage (see nose art. of leather and white shaded the
white, I stuck the paper cutout to sidebar). skin. I used Testors rubber for the
the model. It’s important to do deepest shadows and facial
this while the Micro Mask is tacky. features.
www.FineScale.com 17
BUILDER BASICS
By Elizabeth Nash
workbench
– Jose Luiz Dalmiglio, Guarujá, São Paulo, Brazil
C
lose your eyes and pic- there’s a Jacuzzi and Sno-cone rent space closer to that perfect
ture your perfect work- machine in your peripherals as one you’re imagining.
space. What do you see? well — it’s your perfect work- Whether you have a lot of
Paint racks up to the ceiling? space. money budgeted or want to
Light streaming over the bench While the FSM staf can’t work with what you have, fol-
from high-powered desk lamps? make hot tub recommenda- low these tips and you’ll have a
Clean, white tile loors? Perhaps tions, we can help get your cur- workbench to be proud of.
18 FineScale Modeler December 2018
Things to purchase
Inexpensive upgrades
Let’s start from the top, down.
• Fan — A small fan can both keep you close a drawer. Cushioned contact paper is
comfortable when it’s warmer and blow a tacky material that can be cut to it any
unpleasant and bad-for-you fumes far away. cabinet, drawer, or counter and helps keep
• Cutting mat — Keep sharp, stabby items things in place. It also quiets the act of
away from countertops. Look for a self- picking things up and putting them down
healing mat with measurements printed on. — win-win!
Check out Dave’s handy mat (right). • Recycle bin — Empty paint bottles, kit
• Drawer organizers — Take a walk down packaging, scratch paper — all of this and
any home improvement aisle and you’ll see more can be recycled. Instead of putting it “My workbench is very basic, but, so far, it
quite the selection. Measure your space in the waste bin, only to rummage through works for me. With each model, I learn
(drawer inserts do not necessarily have to sit and sort it later, just purchase another bas- something new and hope to keep gradually
in a drawer) and ind small organizers that ket or can to hold all the recycling. Toss improving.” – Dave Sorensen, Irvine, California
it. Look for ones made of clear plastic, plastic, paper, and more inside and be done
which are easy to clean and keep small bits with it. Standing is good for you! It’s healthy for
organized inside the compartments. In • Power strip — If you never seem to have the body and can increase your energy, if
these you can store hobby knives, extra enough outlets, a power strip or two can perhaps at the expense of your feet. Help
blades, iles, sanding sticks and paper, make all the diference. he best ones come those puppies out by standing on a thick
screwdrivers, pencils, etc. Bonus: Tackle with rotating outlets, making the placement cushion with a lot of give and bounce. Of
boxes also work for storing small bits. of large and oddly shaped plugs easy. course you can buy a specialty mat, or you
• Contact paper — While organizers can Remember to purchase only those with can make one for less by placing a rug over
corral smaller items, the bigger pieces will surge protectors. carpet padding. Viola! No more barking
still slide around each time you open and • Floor mat — Haven’t you heard? dogs.
Pricer picks
Middling purchases that make a diference.
• Paint racks — You’re going to collect a lot what brand you buy, look for ones that are
of ’em so it’s best to have speciic shelving easy to clean.
meant for storing small bottles. If you’re • Chair — Haven’t you heard? Sitting some
short on wall space, look at Doc O’Brien’s of the time is really appreciated. Don’t
Paint Tower, a vertical storage tower that sabotage your relaxation with an uncom-
can hold 56 bottles of paint. fortable chair. hrow money at something
• Tool organizers — HobbyZone USA is with support and cushion, and preferably
where it’s at when it come to modeling- with a seat that can be raised, lowered, and
speciic organizers. hey have brush hold- swivels. You’ll notice George (right) uses a “With this space I am able to work on three kits
ers, model stands, pallets, part holders, rolling chair to get around his space (just at a time. Currently, I’m building a Tamiya
storage drawers, and as many module set- don’t roll over the dog!) Hawker Hurricane, ICM Hs 126A, and
ups that you could ever want. But no matter Hasegawa P-38.” – George Hamlin, via email
Big purchases
Livin’ the dream (and paying for it).
• Secretary desk — A beautiful, sturdy desk light on the water heater. OK, so there are
can last a lifetime. Purchase one with a two places you don’t want paint fumes.
retractable lid and keep your models safe Invest in a good spray booth to avoid any
in-between build sessions. Take a look at problems. he typical size of the models
Warren’s beautiful (and protective) work you work on will govern the booth size.
station (right). hat, in turn, will govern the power of the
• Spray booth — Airbrushes and spray cans fan — this is one tool you’ll be happy to say
push out a lot of paint and not all of it really sucks! Make sure the fan draws the
makes it to the target model. Overspray on paint fumes through a ilter and out of the “When it comes to workbenches, my personal
walls and your workbench might be OK, workshop to the great outdoors. If you pre- preference is the classic secretary’s desk. This
especially if you aren’t fussy about the decor. fer to build your own booth, ind inspira- allows me to protect everything when I am not
But the one place you don’t want stray paint tion on the FSM forums by typing in “build working. It has served me well for more than
particles going is your lungs. Or the pilot spray booth.” 40 years.” – Warren Graser, Elkton, Maryland
www.FineScale.com 19
Arrange your space
Working with what you have
No need to spend money, simply rearrange to make the most of the space at hand.
• Put like with like — Store similar things loose miscellanies corralled in cups and
together. Organize by pulling everything bowls. Magnetic tool holders, such as the
from one category out into an open space. ones sold by Micro-Mark keep small metal
Don’t leave out a single item in a category. tools up and out of the way while making
his way you can see exactly how much you them visible and easy to grab.
own and judge how much storage the col- • Keep things close — While the dream
lection will take up. hen move onto the may be to have an expansive workbench
next step … with tons of counter real estate, the truth is
• Designate a spot for everything — here that you want to keep supplies close at “My father worked with machines and after he
most deinitely is a place for all the items in hand. When sitting/standing in your main passed away I took his machinist’s tool box
your workshop. Some are obvious: paints on spot, the items you use most often should and converted it to a modeling tool kit. Paints,
a rack, pencils in a cup. Other objects don’t never be out of reach. Stretch your arms to files, brushes, tools, putties, extra decals … it
have a well-deined storage area, but it’s the left and right, make note of this space, stores them all nicely, keeping everything safe
easy to make one using solutions from and place storage containers, paints, and convenient. Best of all, it’s portable; if I go
around your home. Put round bottles on a brushes, and tools here. Richard keeps his on vacation, I close it up and bring it along!”
lazy Susan; collect sandpaper in shoeboxes; tools very close at all times (right). – Richard Zolla, Monson, Massachusetts
Bigger changes
So you’re ready to do some installation …
• Plenty of lighting — Good lighting is pricey, but can last for decades.
crucial when working with small pieces. • Pegboard — If you’ve run out of surface
Surrounding lamps can help, but also get a space, go vertical and hang a pegboard.
desk lamp. Look for one that swivels so you Look at John’s organized setup (right).
can focus the light where needed. And don’t • Shelving — Spend as much, or as little,
leave what goes in the lamps to chance … money as you want. A simple slab of rect-
• Light bulbs — Is that olive green or olive angular wood and brackets will do you ine;
drab? Put it under good lighting and you sanding and staining are optional.
won’t have to ask. A bright workspace is • U-desk — Last month you were inishing “I wanted a shop that would accommodate all
essential, but it’s also important to have the up painting a Corvette car and now you’re of my hobby interests, and would provide the
right color temperature measured in kelvin building the hull of a corvette ship. First space for occasional group-build sessions. Our
(K). Look for bulbs labeled as “daylight” of, good for you, keep it up! Second, install basement is a walk-out with a lot of natural
(5,000K to 6,500K). hese cast a bright a U-desk, a table with a partly collapsible lighting, perfect for hobby work!”
bluish-white light. his hue provides amaz- surface. Expand your counter space when – John Brohm, Mars, Pennsylvania
ing contrast and shows true colors when you need it and hide it when you don’t.
compared to warmer “soft white” (2,700K – • Bookshelf — Why, where else will you
3,000K) bulbs. Newer LED bulbs are keep back issues of FSM?
• Outlets — If you can install several more Get one with a large bowl and spray nozzle.
outlets along the baseboards, great — you • Flooring — Carpeting is a monster that
know you’ll use all of them. If you can have eats photo-etch. Slay it by installing hard-
them raised up several feet, even better — wood or tile. Get a light color that won’t act
no more crawling around on the loor as camoulage. Bonus: Spills are easier to
(except to chase down stray parts). clean and your chair will roll better. It’s easy
• Sink — When reading through the work- to get around Mark’s work room (right).
bench wish lists on the FSM forum, a sink • Cabinets — If you like the idea of shelv-
is one of the most sought after items. Wash ing but prefer a cleaner look, then install “My wife and I moved often so my spaces were
your troubles (and paint water) down the cabinetry. You’ll love it, and so will others in generally dark basements and garages. When I
drain of a large utility sink close to your your household who don’t enjoy clutter. retired we agreed on a bigger house that
bench. If you can stomach the plumbing • Vents and ducts — Make your paint could accommodate a first-class studio. There’s
costs, this addition might be the greatest booth permanent and tuck the vent pipe an outside vented paint booth with its own air
modeling asset since needle-nose pliers. into the wall. FSM conditioner.” – Mark Mahal, Naples, Florida
“My wife and I moved to a smaller house with a large walk-in closet in a “I built this cabinet twenty years ago. After surviving all this time and
bedroom. I purchased storage cubes for my paints and spray booth. I even a fire, it’s still temporary. When done working, I can close it and
model on an old office desk.” – Phil Cavender, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina the wife is happy.” – Chester Mohn, New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
“My workshop is 4-feet, 6-inches wide by 9-feet long and is located “In addition to the normal plastic, I also build large wooden ships. I’ve
under the basement steps. It may be jam-packed, but since I do mostly found that containers with several drawers work great for holding spare
military miniatures it works just fine.” – Dan Pocek, Walton Hills, Ohio parts and extra tools.” – Steve Steransak, Kinnelon, New Jersey
“My corner of the basement is almost overflowing! The workbench is a “These lighted cases make for easy viewing while protecting the planes
discard from a laboratory I once worked at — perfect for storing longer from people and dust. My goal is to have one example of every aircraft
tools and those with cords.” – Charles Spencer, Mundelein, Illinois type from WWII in the collection.” – Rick Troutman, Lynchburg, Virginia
www.FineScale.com 21
M
ain battle tank of the U.S.
Marine Corps and Army, the
M1 Abrams entered service
in 1980. Successive upgrades
— M1A1, M1A2, and, currently, M1A2
SEPv3 — have kept it in front-line service.
World War II’s intrepid tankers never could
have dreamed of a 68-ton turbine-powered
tank combining the speed, armor, and ire-
power of an Abrams.
1 2
When I acquired Tamiya’s 1/35 scale
M1A1 with mine plow (kit No. 35158), I A modeler’s initial decision: Shop the Drilling out the cooling-jacket perforations on
wanted to show it in action in the 1991 aftermarket or not? I did, purchasing Eduard’s the .50-caliber machine gun with a microbit in
Gulf War. photo-etch (PE) details (No. 35333). a pin vise improved that detail.
3 4
I used a .125-inch roto-reamer to bore out the I noticed a broken tow cable, so made new
barrel on the main gun. ones with .040-inch copper wire. I salvaged the
eyes by cutting them off, drilling a .027-inch
pilot hole, then drilling with a .040-inch bit.
5 6
After several hours of cutting, bending, and gluing PE details, I was I cleaned the primary components with 91% rubbing alcohol, then
eager to move on. applied Tamiya gray primer.
7 8
When the primer was well-dried, I airbrushed Testors Model Master Jumping around in the instructions, I turned to the running gear. The
Acryl U.S. Gulf armor sand (4812). drive-sprockets needed parts needed these lightening holes, drilled
with a .153-inch bit that I angled to make the holes oval.
9 10
I pre-shaded the road wheels with thin (3:1) Tamiya flat black. Pre-shading allowed me to vary the colors of the road wheels using
armor sand, Tamiya metallic gray (XF-56), and Vallejo black gray (70.862).
13 14
Before attaching side skirts, I weathered the suspension/tracks with a I applied a coat of Pledge Floor Gloss to improve decal adhesion and to
slurry of Vallejo desert dust pigments. I used distilled water with a drop let washes flow, such as this raw umber artist’s oil flowing into panel
of dish detergent to break the water’s surface tension for better flow. lines and recesses around fuel caps, exhaust ports, and hinges.
15 16
The start of “dot filtering” — dots of Winsor & Newton yellow ochre, raw … then dragged vertically with a ¼-inch brush damp with clean thinner
umber, and soft mixing white artist’s oils are applied … until they blend in. This varies a monochromatic finish.
www.FineScale.com 25
17 18 19
Later in the build I decided to add smoke After decals I applied a layer of Testors Dullcote I primed and brush-painted items from
cartridges made from .061-inch styrene rod to deaden the finish, then applied Vallejo Verlinden’s Iraq War Stowage set (No. 1968)
and brush-painted with Tamiya cockpit green desert dust pigments with a ¼-inch brush. with Vallejo acrylics.
(XF-71).
Dark wash
Bored barrel
Verlinden stowage
Dot filtering
Dust pigments
BY AARON SKINNER
B
ig-scale igures come in a vari-
ety of materials including plas-
tic and vinyl, but cast resin
remains one of the most popu-
lar mediums. Large parts with good
detail are easily produced and characters
can be assembled quickly so modelers
can focus on painting. Mainstream
manufacturers that use injection-
molded plastic for most of their kits
have turned to resin for some igures.
Moebius produced a trio of resin 1/8
scale kits from the 2016 ilm Batman v
Superman — Dawn of Justice: the two
titular characters and, arguably the best
part of the movie, Wonder Woman as
portrayed by Gal Gadot.
Packed in foam in a sturdy box,
Moebius’ Wonder Woman comprises
just nine parts including the stand. Keen
to add Diana Prince to my collection of
sci-i igures, I irst washed the parts in
Westley’s Bleche-Wite tire cleaner to
remove any mold-release agent that
might interfere with paint adhesion.
4 5 6
Primer not only provides a good foundation The chin looked too wide compared to photos I wanted the flesh to appear lively, so I
for paint, it also reveals unseen problems such of Gadot. So, I performed a little plastic, er, airbrushed the face, arms, and legs with
as a pinhole in one of the thighs that I filled resin surgery (left). Keeping the sides even was Tamiya flat white acrylic (XF-2). Keeping the
with super glue. easy by watching how much primer I removed. parts separate made painting easier.
7 8 9
I used AK-Interactive’s Flesh and Skin Colors set Following Joe Hudson’s advice for painting To accentuate muscles, I sprayed the shadow
starting with a base coat mix of equal parts female figures, I kept the shadows light. The mix into recesses on the arms, legs, and neck.
base flesh (AK3011) and light flesh (AK3012) first layers under the chin, arms, and legs were AK-Interactive thinner and a retarder helped
warmed with a drop of Vallejo light brown. the base color mixed with more base flesh. the paint flow smoothly from the nozzle.
10 11 12
To brighten upward facing areas of arms and I masked the flesh with Silly Putty to airbrush Wonder Woman’s outfit has a metallic sheen
legs, I mixed progressively more light flesh into the uniform. The putty sticks well enough to that I reproduced with Tamiya clear colors over
the base color and sprayed it in layers. The final mask but won’t damage the paint. It can be Testors enamels. The first step was chrome
layer had a little highlight flesh added. prodded into position with a toothpick. silver (No. 2690) on the pteruges and shorts.
16 17 18
Backing the brush away from the surface, I After removing the masking, I hand-brushed I applied more Silly Putty masks and sprayed
widened the spray pattern to paint clear blue thin clear blue into recesses at the edges of the the torso armor with Testors Model Master
over the entire skirt area. Working slowly in pteruges’ strips and along the belt line to gold (No.1744) as a base coat for Tamiya clear
light layers, I was able to regulate the density. accentuate the contrast. red (X-27).
19 20 21
To pre-shade folds and undercuts, I mixed a I masked the gold belt and trim at the upper Tamiya tape for curves, a flexible, thin vinyl
little military brown (No. 1701) into the gold edge of the top with Tamiya tape. Cutting tape that can be stretched like electrical tape
base color. points and placing overlapping sections at the proved ideal to mask the long sweeping
corners and tips kept the masks crisp. sections at the sides of the torso.
www.FineScale.com 29
22 23 24
Silly Putty can creep when left for extended Just as I did with the clear blue, I started Then, I lifted the brush farther from the surface
periods. I used a toothpick to gently scrape it painting the torso armor by airbrushing the and sprayed thin layers of clear red over the
off the greaves and back into the gaps shadow areas and around the belt. Multiple entire torso.
between the plates. passes produced dark metallic red deposits.
25 26 27
On the greaves, I first sprayed clear red on the I flowed a wash of clear red and a few drops of Silly Putty prevented paint from reaching all of
undersides that would be in shadow. Keeping Tamiya flat brown (XF-10) cut with Tamiya the armor. With a fine brush, I edged the outfit.
the density lighter on upward facing surfaces acrylic thinner into the gaps between the A steady hand, magnifying eyewear, and a
mimicked the play of light on the armor plates. strips of the torso armor. little thinner in the brush helps the paint flow.
28 29 30
Using a fine brush, I touched up the edges of To contrast the belt clips on Diana’s hips with I base-coated the belt and shoulder harness
the shoes and knee pads to cover red the gold trim of her outfit, I painted them with with a mix of equal parts Vallejo Model Color
overspray. Testors brass (No.1144TT). leather brown (No. 70.871) and black (No.
70.950). A little water helps the paint flow.
33 34
I mixed a glaze of light flesh, then brushed thin layers onto the nose, I painted the eyes with a mix of white and a little light flesh; pure white
chin, cheekbones, eyebrows, and collarbones and neck tendons. A little is too stark and looks unnatural. A 5/0 brush, good support for the
highlight flesh in the mix added bright highlights to the face. model, and a steady hand are key to getting this right the first time.
35 36
To paint the lips, I mixed red with base flesh. To get the shape even, I Molded eyebrows made painting them easy. I brushed on leather
started near the center and painted a little on one side and matched it brown with a little highlight flesh mixed in to help blend them into the
on the other. face.
37 38
Eyes make or break a figure. If they don’t match, it will look cross- or The leather straps on the greaves and shoes started with a base coat of
wall-eyed. I started each iris by placing a dot of leather brown at the saddle brown. I mixed in a little mahogany brown to form a glaze that I
same spot to mark the center, then slowly circled out for the final shape. brushed along the edges.
www.FineScale.com 31
39 40
I airbrushed the base with Tamiya German gray (XF-63), then picked out I painted the dirt between the rocks with a mix of flat brown and desert
rocks with a mix of Tamiya desert yellow (XF-59) and light gray (XF-66). yellow. Diana’s masked leg with its attached rock was placed so it
Adjusting the amount of gray in the mix differentiated a few rocks. matched the rest of the base.
41 42
A wash of Tamiya enamel brown panel liner darkened cracks and All of the figure’s weight will be borne on two joins, so I reinforced them
recesses. After the wash dried, I wiped the surfaces with a little clean with metal pins. Steel paperclips are a useful source of short, strong
enamel thinner on a paper towel to restore highlights. pieces of straight wire.
43 44
To anchor the pins, I drilled holes in the mounting lugs with a bit in a pin Lining up corresponding holes can be a problem, so I made it easier by
vise slightly larger in diameter than the wire. The metal pins were glued drilling larger holes in the mating surfaces.
into the holes with 5-minute epoxy.
45 46
I filled the large holes with 5-minute epoxy; the same adhesive was To fill a small gap that resulted when the leg was glued to the base, I
applied to mating surfaces. The glue will harden around the wire as it squeezed Vallejo plastic putty into the space. A water-damp cotton
dries and produce a solid join. swab removed excess and smoothed the still-wet putty.
49 50
After attaching the hair, I brushed on dark shadow glazes where the Over a base-coat mix of Tamiya dark iron (XF-84) and dark copper
face was mostly covered. Lighter shadow glazes blended those areas (XF-28), I hand-painted Vallejo gunmetal gray (No. 70.863) on the ring.
into the face. Dry-brushed Testors brass highlighted detail around the edge.
51 52
Images show the grooves in the greaves are gold, so I flowed thin gold To pop the detail of the gold trim, I applied a wash of thin Tamiya flat
enamel into the recesses. brown acrylic. Enamel thinners would have attacked the underlying
paint.
53 54
I wanted the lasso to appear to glow. So, after painting it gold and As a final step, I brushed Pledge Floor Gloss over the eyes and lips. This
applying a brown wash, I brushed on Tamiya clear orange. shine contrasts with the flat flesh and adds life to our heroine as she
heads forth to fight evil. FSM
www.FineScale.com 33
SHOW GALLERY
WonderFest
USA 2018
For modelers of sci-fi,
fantasy, horror, and
comic subjects, it
doesn’t get much better
than WonderFest USA.
Held annually the first
weekend in June in
Louisville, Kentucky, the
show features an eye-
popping vendor room,
cosplayers, and full-size
robots along with the
Amazing Model Contest
that showcases the best
figure, spaceship, and
vehicle builds in the
world. FSM editors Mark
Savage and Aaron
Skinner ventured into
the Bluegrass State to
photograph many of
those creations. Next
year’s show is June 1-2.
More info:
www.wonderfest.com.
▶ ARCANGELO SORVILLO
PROVIDENCE,
RHODE ISLAND
Ramping up the terror of Narin
Studio’s 1/6 scale Double-Axe
Predator, Arcangelo chained the
handles to the wristbands,
dripped blood from the blades,
and added quills to the shoulders.
Working with Tamiya and Vallejo
acrylics, he painted base coats
over primer, then built up the skin
patterns with translucent layers.
◀ ANNYA SHETININA
FRIDLEY, MINNESOTA
Based on a painting, Grace and
the Frog is a 1/6 scale resin figure
from Cardinal by Clubhouse
sculpted by Roberto Von Behr.
Annya replaced the solid water
with a clear model railroad prod-
uct and painted the figure with
acrylics and pastels. “I am very
proud of her eyelashes,” she says.
www.FineScale.com 35
SHOW GALLERY
▲ RICHARD LOBINSKE
CRAWFORDSVILLE, FLORIDA
In June 1983, Challenger lifted off
on the seventh space shuttle mis-
sion with Sally Ride, the first
American female astronaut,
aboard. Richard built Monogram’s
1/72 scale shuttle with Real Space
resin engine bells, scratchbuilt
payload pallets, decals from Lake
County Spaceport for the thermal
tiles, and medical tape to replicate
advanced flexible reusable insula-
tion.
▶ YANCY MAILES
DAYTON, OHIO
With carefully applied acrylic paints
and delicate pastel shading, Yancy
has Scott Wells’ 1/4 scale bust of
Ghostbuster Ray Stantz looking like
he’s seen, well, a ghost.
◀ STEVE STURGIS
LYNNWOOD, WASHINGTON
Steve’s aim was on target with his
finish on Resin Realities 1/6 scale
figure, The Squeeze, of Adrienne
Barbeau as Maggie in Escape from
New York. After airbrushing
Floquil lacquers over Tamiya
▲ SCOTT WASHINGTON white primer, Steve shaded the
FAIRBURN, GEORGIA clothing and flesh with chalk pas-
A master scratchbuilder, Scott created this 1/144 scale pirate tels.
spaceship using styrene and brass. It’s finished with Tamiya
acrylics.
www.FineScale.com 37
SHOW GALLERY
▲ KENNETH LEISHMAN
LUTZ, FLORIDA
Sabine Wren, Phoenix Squadron’s
Mandalorian warrior from Star
Wars Rebels, has a colorful sense
of style as exhibited by her
◀ DOUGLAS SCOTT
Y-wing. Kenneth painted Bandai’s
1/72 scale kit with Tamiya acrylics FOUNTAIN INN,
using paper masks and modified SOUTH CAROLINA
the kit’s astromech droid to E2046’s 1/6 scale Lady Deadpool
model Chopper. steps into the light thanks to
Douglas and a beautifully applied
finish of Vallejo acrylics and
Alclad II lacquers.
B
andai’s kits based on
the anime series Mobile
Suit Gundam come in a
variety of scales and complex-
ities, but share three things.
he parts push together so the
models can be assembled
without glue. Many of the
suit’s joints are articulated so
the igures are posable. Finally,
and most importantly for us,
the kits can be augmented for
a unique inish.
I built Bandai’s 1/144 scale
Kimaris Trooper from Mobile
Suit Gundam: Iron-Blooded
Orphans. All of the techniques
I used can be applied to any
Gundam kit.
I used Testors paints and
tools throughout.
1 2 3
Using sprue cutters (No. 8940T), I cut parts After removing the attached frames with the To cover the disparate plastic colors and
from the frames including the short sections sprue cutters, I shaved off the remaining nubs prepare the surface for painting, I base-coated
that hold the parts. This makes it easy to avoid with a hobby knife (No. 8830A) holding the the subassemblies with Model Master enamel
cutting the part you may have missed and blade parallel to the surface. gray primer (No. 2737) applied with an Aztek
prevents stress marks or other damage. airbrush (No. A407L).
4 5 6
Before adding the top coats, I pre-shaded Although the skeletal frame is barely seen, I I painted the previously white areas with
panel lines on the exterior body parts with picked out the cord (left) with Testors gloss red hellblau (No. 4778) then picked out small
Model Master acrylic aircraft interior black (No. 1103TT) and flat white (No. 1168TT); the panels with hand-painted medium gray
(No. 4767). For the endoskeleton, I airbrushed pistons and other details gold (No. 1144TT) (No. 4778). The purple areas were airbrushed
Model Master Metalizer titanium (No. 1404) and steel (No. 1180TT). Fine 3/0 and 10/0 grape pearl and detailed with hand-painted
followed by Sealer for Metalizer (No. 1459). brushes kept the work inside the lines. enamel metal flake purple (No. 1153TT).
7 8
I protected parts of the axe and sword with Now the model was ready for assembly, which
masking tape, then airbrushed the blades with was a simple matter of pushing it together. To
Model Master chrome silver trim (No. 2738). protect the finish from weathering
The metal section of the axe handle was applications, I airbrushed a sealing layer of
painted with flat steel. acrylic clear gloss (No. 4638).
9 10
Then I flowed CreateFX enamel black stain into Dip a cotton swab in enamel thinner and blot Finally, I sealed the work with a coat of acrylic
recessed panel lines and details. Don’t worry away the excess on a paper towel. Then, gently clear flat. A few changes to the colors and I had
about splotches outside the lines; they are wipe the stain from around the lines. Wipe a unique fighting suit for my Gundam
easy to clean up once the stain dries. across rather than along the lines. collection. FSM
www.FineScale.com 41
FORM & FIGURE
By Joe Hudson
Bust out
a Hulk
Shadows, highlights,
and more shadows
for Bruce Banner’s
alter ego
BY JOE HUDSON
P
ainting he Hulk was pure fun! his awesome bust
was sculpted and produced by Troy McDevitt. It is
resin and stands about 3-½ inches tall. In the next issue
To evenly blend the many layers of shadows and high-
Paint & Play returns as
lights, I used both an airbrush and a paintbrush. I painted Sue Wachowski dresses up
with mostly Vallejo colors, using the Game Air line unless the enchantress from the
otherwise noted. game Freeblades.
4 5 6
To blend the colors evenly, I switched to a Highlights on the shoulders, chest, and cheeks Another brighter highlight was added to the
paintbrush and applied more dark green are a mix of dark green and sick green applied highest point on the already lighter areas. It’s a
watered down with airbrush thinner to the with a fine point on the airbrush. More sick mixture of sick green and escorpena green.
shadowed areas. green was added to the highest points.
7 8 9
Darker shadows are a varying mix of dark green I brought out the veins with a combination of The brightest highlights are pure escorpena
and Model Air black. The deeper I went, the sick green and bone white. This bright color green, watered down with airbrush thinner. I
more black was added. This went in the muscle was hand-brushed on. brushed this under the eyes, on the tops of the
creases, around the eyes, and along the hairline. cheeks, nostrils, nose tip, and ears.
10 11 12
The hair was base-coated with sick green. A To darken the hair, I spread a thinned wash of To finish, I painted the underside of the bust
light dabbing of escorpena green was applied Model Air black across the strands. The thinner with Vallejo flat back. Now the Hulk is ready to
next. allowed the paint to flow into all the recesses. smash! FSM
www.FineScale.com 43
How to build a
killer
Easy tricks and fixes
to improve Italeri’s
1/48 scale OH-58D
BY MICHAL SWINIARSKI
B
ell Helicopter’s initial proposal for
the U.S. Army’s LOH (Light
Observation Helicopter) program
of the early 1960s lost out to the
Hughes OH-6A Cayuse. However, when
Hughes couldn’t meet production demands
in 1967, the competition was reopened. his
time, Bell won: he result was designated
OH-58A Kiowa and deployed to Vietnam
in 1969.
I have a soft spot for U.S. Army helicop-
ters of the Vietnam War, so Italeri’s 1/48
scale OH-58A (kit No. 2624) was an inevi-
table choice, and a relatively easy one, judg-
1 2
ing by the size of the model — or so I
thought. However, when I studied the parts The kit’s interior replicates Bell’s JetRanger — a My stash of spares supplied decals to depict
and compared them to photos I realized it civilian design. I rebuilt the instrument panel instruments for the panel.
would be a long journey. and glare shield using .4mm, .6mm, and .8mm
styrene sheet.
www.FineScale.com 45
5 6
Leftover seat belts: in front, from Eduard’s UH-1D photo-etch (PE) set; in Interior paint: Vallejo gray primer and LifeColor light ghost gray; Vallejo
back, from Gallery Models’ H-34. I stuck fishing weights under the seats olive drab seats, filtered with Abteilung white oil over a clear gloss; and
to keep this bird off its tail. AK-Interactive interior wash thinned with mineral spirits.
7 8 9
The early Kiowa had no cowling for the tail- Fitting the main windscreen was a puzzler, Roof windows were airbrushed with Tamiya
rotor shaft. The kit’s shaft didn’t look right, so I with a gap and a step in the roof area. I added clear green, but fit was poor. So I glued the
used .6mm rod from Albion Alloys and shaft- styrene shims, sanded them to shape, and clear parts at the rear and dyed Deluxe
bearing housings made from Plastruct profiles after three hours of dry-fitting I could add Materials Perfect Plastic Putty with Vallejo
bent to shape. Humbrol ClearFix and glue the parts together. black to fill at the front, looking like a gasket.
10 11
Last step before spraying Vallejo gray primer was to remove overdone I pre-shaded panel lines and recesses with black, waited two days, then
riveting above the second-row door frame. I let the primer dry for 48 airbrushed an olive drab base coat (Mr. Hobby H304). I varied the
hours. density of the layers and faded some panels with lightened shades.
12 13
This step is also a good one for paint chipping. I used AK’s chipping I first painted the skids Vallejo steel, applied chipping medium, then
medium over olive drab on the nose, over-coated with black, and painted olive drab over it. Let it dry a couple of hours (depending on
chipped with a toothpick after it had dried. paint thickness), moisten with water, wait a minute, and start chipping.
16 17
I used Abteilung oil washes to filter the dark olive drab: snow white, A mix of Vietnam earth pigments from CMK and Ammo by Mig Jimenez
buff, and faded dark yellow, randomly applied on selected panels, with dirtied the cabin floor and skids. Nothing complicated: Just load up a
more added where I wanted fading. Then came AK streaking grime, hard brush and tap until you’re happy. Finally, I added scratchbuilt
dark speckles of oil, etc. A Prismacolor pencil added chipping. armor plates, one open, one closed. FSM
Fading
Filler-putty “gasket”
Scratchbuilt console
TallyHo! decals
T
hroughout my model building years, I tried to simulate
natural-metal inishes using either Testors or Alclad II
metallics, but I was never satisied with the inal appear-
ance. Don’t get me wrong, other modelers get great results, but my
models never looked right.
A couple of years ago I tried Bare-Metal Foil (BMF) with mar-
velous success. BMF is a thin metal foil with an adhesive pre-
applied to its underside. After inishing four planes in BMF, I was
looking for a challenge, so I picked up Revell’s 1/48 scale B-29.
his was a bigger challenge than I ever expected!
48 FineScale Modeler December 2018
1 2 3
I brushed Tamiya’s cockpit green on the floor I also replaced the kit landing gear with resin Next I built up the engines little by little, giving
and walls and dry-brushed the floor flat black wheels and tires from Eduard. After painting, a them a more realistic appearance with fresh
and aluminum. Then Il created wear on the black wash was used to highlight the cast coats of various paint colors and added
edges of the instruments with a pencil. details of the wheels. copper-wire fuel lines.
4 5 6
The Wright R-3350 Duplex-Cyclone engines on This 1⁄8-inch nacelle gap desperately needed Ta da! Gap be gone. The kit omitted locating
B-29s had two rows of cylinders. The kit’s attention. Based upon prior experience, the pins at the nacelles. Careful alignment of the
engines only have one, but the engines are joint at the nacelle is typically an issue with wing halves is required to produce a smooth
barely visible in the nacelle, so it isn’t an issue. Revell’s 1/48 scale bombers. joint.
7 8 9
The wings in my kit were visibly warped so I The kit’s single engine exhaust is incorrect. I drilled two holes in the nacelle for the
corrected them by using an architect’s scale, Full-size B-29 nacelles had two exhausts, one scratchbuilt exhaust pipes and filled the
rubber bands, and a clamp. for the engine, the other for the supercharger. recesses with body putty.
www.FineScale.com 49
10 11 12
With the many rivets, foil additions, and While this space is normally occupied by the As extra insurance against a tail-sitting plane,
multiple exhaust pipes, this 1/48 scale B-29 is engineer and navigator, the rear flight deck I epoxied pinewood derby weights under the
starting to look like its full-size counterpart. had to hold added weight. flight deck.
13 14 15
Prior to applying the BMF, portions of the Here strips of BMF are beginning to cover the After burnishing the sheets of foil, wiping
fuselage and wings were masked with tape fuselage. You can see the long wing spars used them with steel wool, and adding rivets, here
and painted aluminum plate Metalizer. to securely attach the main wings. is the end result.
16 17 18
BMF is not smooth and silvering decals is a Thanks to careful trimming and a soak in I glued strips of styrene into blocks to support
problem. To fight this, I cut out the individual slightly soapy water, the decals settled nicely. the engines.
characters, seen with this USAF decal (not used).
tight clamps. hat work all but eliminated Next, the nacelles were covered with masked and painted these spots prior to
the seam, 6. BMF and rivets were added, 10. applying BMF, because tape will lift the
I straightened the warped wings using a Most of the kit’s weight is located thin foil, 13.
number of tools on my bench, 7. behind the main wings, making the model Now I could apply the foil panel by
a tail-sitter out of the box. he kit’s solution panel. Eight sheets were required to cover
Engine exhaust is a clear plastic peg to support the tail. I the wings and fuselage, 14.
he exhausts on B-29 engines comprise a did not like this, so, instead, I illed the rear Each piece was applied, trimmed, and
large pipe for the engine paired with a light deck with weights — a ½ pound to burnished with a paper stump. I lightly
smaller pipe for the supercharger. he kit be precise. I poured lead balls into a small brushed the foil once with 0000 steel wool
only provides the larger pipes which it plastic bag, then illed it with white glue. I to simulate the metal’s natural grain.
poorly, 8. secured the bag to the cabin loor with cop- After the foiling was complete, the
To correct the exhausts, I cut short per wire, 11. More weight under the loor missing rivets were illed in, 15.
pieces of aluminum tube of two diferent ensured the nose wheel stayed down, 12. Silvering of the decal’s carrier ilm is a
diameters and painted them with a combi- problem with a foil inish since the foil is
nation of lat black and rust. After illing Applying BMF and decals not perfectly smooth. To reduce the possi-
the recess for the kit part with putty, I Portions of the wings and fuselage on bility of silvering, I cut the decals into indi-
drilled two holes to match the aluminum B-29s were constructed using a special alu- vidual letters and numbers and eliminated
tubes. hen, I attached the new, corrected minum alloy prone to corrosion. So, a spe- the thick clear ilm between them, 16.
exhausts with epoxy, 9. cial paint was a applied to protect it. I Soaking the decals in a solution of tap
21 22
The greenhouse is the most distinguishing The extra effort involved in detailing the If this isn’t an impressive size for a model, then
feature of the B-29 and Revell did a great job of cockpit early on paid off since it is visible I don’t know what is.
re-creating the look. through the greenhouse.
Shiny! The finished model weighs in at an impressive two pounds. This build was worth the handful of necessary corrections
water with a few drops of dish soap allowed secure attachment points for the engines he Superfortress’ distinctive greenhouse
the decals to easily slide on the metal foil. and cowlings, 19. was then glued in place with Gator’s Grip
Result: no visible carrier ilm, 17. I applied Eduard precut masks to the acrylic hobby glue, 21. I ind that this adhe-
greenhouse prior to painting the framing. sive provides a strong bond, dries clear, and,
Final Assembly After painting I discovered that the unlike super glue, it does not fog clear plas-
he kit does not provide locating pins or a shape of the greenhouse does not match tic, 22.
secure means of attaching the engines or the shape of the fuselage, 20. I heated the Revell’s B-29 is one big bird — the
cowlings to the nacelles. I glued styrene greenhouse with a hair dryer and gently wingspan is 35 inches and the length is 25
strips into blocks which were glued to the reshaped it to comform to the fuselage. inches. Two hands are required to safely
face of the nacelles, 18. his provided Don’t overheat the plastic or it could melt. pick it up! FSM
www.FineScale.com 51
Have a blast with
“Atomic Annie” Improving the aim of Dragon’s 1/72 scale M65 atomic cannon
BY MIKE FLECKENSTEIN
A
s the threat of atomic warfare proliferated in the Cold top speed of 45 mph. he entire assembly of two trucks and one
War, all three branches of the U.S. military sought gun was designated the M65, although its popular name was
nuclear weapons for their arsenals. For the U.S. Army, “Atomic Annie.” She weighed in at 86.4 tons.
that meant atomic artillery: the M65 280mm Twenty M65s were deployed, primarily in West Germany, with
Motorized Heavy Gun, also known as the Atomic Cannon. In other units in Okinawa. hey were operational from 1953-1963. A
May 1950, the Watervliet Arsenal began designing the 280mm few have been preserved as museum pieces, such as at Ft. Sill in
Gun T131. his heavy, but mobile, long-range gun was developed Oklahoma.
to ire the W-9 15-kiloton atomic 280mm projectile T124. Dragon’s 1/72 scale Atomic Annie (kit No. 7484) represents
By spring 1951, the irst T131 was mounted on the T72 gun vast improvements over the eforts of yesteryear by Life-Like,
carriage, and in October 1952, three T131 guns were demonstrated Renwal, Revell, and Aurora.
at Aberdeen Proving Ground in Maryland.
he gun could be set up for iring in about 12 minutes, and
returned to the traveling mode in approximately 15 minutes. Range
was 20 miles, within 20 yards or less of a target.
In 1950, Kenworth began building the M249 4 x 4 Heavy Gun-
Lifting Front Truck and the M250 4x4 Heavy Gun-Lifting Rear
Truck to transport the T131. Each truck was powered by a
Continental six-cylinder engine generating 375 horsepower and a
To display the M65, I cut a ¼-inch oak plank and edged it. The ground-
work is DAS air-drying clay embossed with a sand texture using 60-grit
sandpaper. I scattered stones before painting Tamiya buff. A 1950s soldier
comprising various Preiser figure parts lends scale to this behemoth.
2 3
Major subassemblies: top row, raising/lowering tractor forks; middle, The subassemblies for the gun carriage: The inside of the elevation
front tractor with interior on left; bottom, front and rear cabs, cylinders need reaming so the pistons would slide freely without
suspension components, and spare wheel. scraping paint. To provide friction to hold elevation, a skim of super glue
was applied inside holes where the gun tube plugs into the chassis.
www.FineScale.com 53
5
The tube in the travel position, out of battery …
4 6
Initial positioning shows the kit conforms very well to 1/72 scale plans. … and in battery, in the extended position, and, finally …
7 8
… in the elevated, firing position. The real gun could elevate to 55 Superdetailing has begun on the front tractor with various lengths and
degrees. thicknesses of styrene strip and rod.
12 13
The completed forward tractor: It was painted the same olive drab; The same paint and weathering completed the rear tractor.
the tires are Tamiya NATO black (XF-69) dry-brushed with Tamiya buff
(XF-57).
www.FineScale.com 55
READER GALLERY
▲ SIMON NEWELL
SIDMOUTH, DEVON,
ENGLAND
Simon souped up Tamiya’s 1/12
scale Ducati Panigale 1199 S with
a Hobby Design resin and photo-
etch detail set and a Tamiya
turned-brass front fork. He says, “I
put in a few scratchbuilt details
myself, like the magnetic damper
cables and the start/stop button.”
▶ DAVIS GANDEES
LUTZ, FLORIDA
Tamiya Italian red from a spray
can brings Fujimi’s 1/25 scale
Ferrari 330 P4 to life. Davis
painted the chassis and interior
with Testors Model Master enam-
els. “I think it is one of the most
beautiful automobiles ever built,”
he says.
◀ JAMES FULLINGIM
KILLEEN, TEXAS
Taking control of Eduard’s
1/4 scale Bf 110 instrument
panel, James wired it for LEDs
on four circuits powered by
CR 2032 lithium batteries. He
detailed instrument faces with
colored paper and installed a
working clock. He painted the
panel RLM 02 gray for contrast.
www.FineScale.com 57
WORKBENCH REVIEWS
FSM experts build and evaluate new kits
www.FineScale.com 59
WORKBENCH REVIEWS
T
amiya has a history of producing the model a shadow coat. Assembly of the
vehicles from the Japanese rest of the hull was straightforward.
Ground Self Defense Force Add the vision blocks to the turret
( JGSDF) and follows up its before assembly. he join between the
Type 10 Main Battle Tank with the release upper and lower turret halves around the
of this Type 16 maneuver combat vehicle. main gun needed illing, although the
he Type 16 MCV was designed to have mantlet hides much of the seam. A one-
the irepower of a tank, yet be able to be piece gun barrel is supplied to which the
airlifted. muzzle, fume extractor, and dust cover are Kit: No. 35361 Scale: 1/35
Tamiya’s Type 16 features 255 parts added. Mfg.: Tamiya, www.tamiya.com
molded in olive green plastic with vision he unique muzzle brake features lines Price: $67 Comments: Injected-molded,
blocks and lights molded in clear styrene. of holes corkscrewing around the barrel. 255 parts (8 rubber, 28 vinyl), decals,
Eight vinyl tires and 28 polycaps also are hey can be represented with a decal. Or, masks Pros: Working steering; ease of
included. Detail is crisp with a subtle anti- using Tamiya’s self-adhesive mask printed assembly; first-rate detail; sharp nonskid
slip texture molded on the hull and turret. with the holes, you can drill the holes with texture Cons: Simple machine gun
he vinyl tires have good tread and ine a .5mm bit. Opting for the latter, I had the
sidewall detail with no lash. bit move a little on the curved surface so
Unlike most tanks, assembly on this one not all of the holes are properly aligned. painting. I used a punch-and-die set to
started by painting the back side of the Still, I think this looks better than the make circle masks for the side marker
lights. his must be done irst because the decal. Several aftermarket companies lights.
lights are installed in the front and rear hull already ofer replacement muzzle brakes for he decals didn’t want to stick, moving
panels from the inside. the gun. with even the slightest jostling. Once I had
Hull assembly starts with itting spacers he bustle basket features ejector-pin them positioned, I added Tamiya Mark Fit
to the upper hull, then attaching the lower marks, but cleaning them up seemed to do decal solution and left them alone. hey
hull. Make sure the spacers are positioned more damage to the parts so I left most in settled with no problems. Decal 20 is a
properly to prevent alignment issues later. place. he join between the basket’s lower mesh that its atop Part C49. Make sure to
Front, rear, and side panels complete the and rear panels was not great, but the only trim the excess ilm from the decal’s sides
hull. I left of all of the crew steps (parts option would be replacing it with brass for it.
A24, C48, and C49) until the hull was wire. his model was a joy to build. With its
assembled to prevent them from being bro- Two partial igures are supplied to it the modest parts count and well-engineered
ken. he vehicle’s four front wheels have turret’s hatches. heir details are good with assembly, the Type 16 is a great change of
linked working steering using polycaps. particularly striking faces. pace model after doing several complex
I painted the suspension subassemblies Painting choices are limited because the builds. It took 33 hours to complete, but
and the lower hull separately with black camo pattern is the same on all Type 16s. much of that was spent masking the cam-
green. his ensures all of the Tamiya provides masks for head and tail- oulage and weathering.
undercuts are lights as well as vision blocks to simplify he only changes I would make are
painted and gave replacing some of the solid-molded grab
handles and tie-
downs, and
enhancing
the simpliied
.50-caliber
machine gun.
– Mike Scharf
F
irst deployed to the South Paciic model is a decent replica of an early Elco 37mm gun to the front deck, but no thread
in August 1942, PT-109 was 80-foot PT boat. is included to do that.
already war-weary by the time After joining the hull halves, center Overall, this kit is a nice extended week-
Lt. j.g. John F. Kennedy took com- bulkhead, and transom, I inserted the end, out-of-the-box built. Its dimensions
mand. he saga of the boat’s collision and prominent bow chin plate. Unfortunately, are true-to-scale. A modeler prone to
sinking and the subsequent rescue is well the right-hand alignment tab was thicker scratchbuilding could easily enhance the
worth researching. and ofset the part to port. I sanded it for look with aftermarket details. But, some-
PT-109 was irst kitted by Revell in it. times it’s fun to just build a model and this
1963. And while there are a few similarities Steps 5-7 involve the interior spaces for is one kit that provides the perfect opportu-
between that classic and this one, this 1/72 the chartroom and day cabin. Be sure to nity!
scale kit is all new. And, while this one drill holes in the deck for the appropriate – Mark Karolus
ofers some construction challenges, it goes version. If you are building the 1943 ver-
together quickly and is true-to-scale. sion, the instructions show the depth
he excellent 20-page, 52-step instruc- charges mounted near the edge of the
tion booklet ofers two build options: as a foredeck. However, on the full-size boat,
1942 newly built boat in Navy gray or as these weapons were mounted more
the dark green scavenged boat at the time inboard so the forward torpedoes could be
of its sinking on August 2, 1943, with a ired without striking them. You may wish
37mm antitank gun mounted on the for- to modify their position in Step 40.
ward deck. I chose the latter with red oxide he Mk.18 torpedo tubes required sig-
below the waterline tempered with a bit of niicant cleanup of the seam between parts
light weathering. I63 and I64. Be careful when cleaning the Kit: No. 05147 Scale: 1/72
Inspecting the sprues, I was hit by a sprue attachments from the supports (Part Mfg.: Revell, www.revell.de
wave of nostalgia — the attachment points I66) because they it snug to the lower half Price: $29.95 Comments: Injection-
are as robust as those in the 1963 kit. of the tubes. molded, 167 parts, decals
While little lash marred the parts, I he balance of the armament builds Pros: Accurate to current information;
cleaned up seam lines throughout. he well, but be careful as the its are tight. he some interior detail; nicely detailed
styrene is forgiving and not brittle so barrels of the .50-caliber machine guns are 37mm antitank gun Cons: Oversize
cleanup is easy. straight and lack the prominent lash sup- sprue attachments; odd seams; no
he overall quality is fairly good and, pressors seen in period photos. thread provided to lash gun
with a few modiications, the inished he instructions show how to lash the
www.FineScale.com 61
WORKBENCH REVIEWS
T
akom has again gone of the grid suspension arms (part B17) which have
by releasing a model that no one little support. his is especially true for the
thought would ever be seen in rear road wheels that also act as return
plastic. his articulated Swedish rollers. When adding the stif, vinyl tracks,
transport is used by numerous nations. he there’s a lot of pressure on these suspen-
“S” after 206 indicates the armored person- sion arms. hey gave way on mine, so I
nel variant capable of carrying 12 troops — super glued them back together as best as I
four in the front unit and eight in the rear. could. If I build this model again, I will
he kit includes a fairly complete inte- install styrene rod between the rear sus-
rior, with detailed doors and hatches, but pension arms, adding strength but remain-
no engine. he four tracks and power cables ing largely invisible. hese tracks were left Kit: No. 2083 Scale: 1/35
connecting the units are supplied as vinyl of for painting. Mfg.: Takom, www.takom-world.com
that can be attached with plastic cement. he articulation unit is a work of art that Price: $53.99 Comments: Injection-
Overall it was good and the only iller I actually moves in multiple directions with molded, 339 parts (8 vinyl), decals
used was to correct some overly aggressive the use of pistons (as long as you are careful Pros: Fairly complete interior; working
parts cleanup on my part. here are a few with the glue). However, it is delicate and I articulation between units; gauge
ejector-pin marks to be eliminated, other- could have used an extra set of hands dur- decals; build options Cons: Tracks are
wise, they will be visible through the win- ing assembly. stiff, almost too stiff
dows and hatches. he troop seats are designed to be
Out of the box, you’re given a choice to shown only in the stowed position.
replicate one of two Spanish or an Italian Decal gauges all but disappear on the he complexity and fragility of the sus-
vehicle. he two Spanish vehicles are armed black dashboard. pension units pushed assembly of my
with a machine gun in the roof of the front he headlights and their ittings are Bandvagn to 33 hours. he rest of the
unit and use a diferent roof part. he molded in clear styrene; I painted the backs model was trouble-free and the aftermarket
Spanish units also have extra loodlights up then masked the lenses before painting the is already ofering optional road wheels and
front. hese build choices are shown at the vehicle. he side mirrors are also clear, so I weapon stations. It would be nice to see liv-
end of the directions, so make your decision painted the back with chrome, then painted eries for civilian operators, especially ire-
early in the construction process. the assemblies with the camoulage color. ighting vehicles!
he directions have you build the sus- he resulting mirrors are quite convincing. – Mike Scharf
pension for both units, connecting them to To match the khaki green on Spanish
their respective loor pans, and joining the vehicles, I mixed equal parts Tamiya khaki
two units together. his causes excessive drab, olive green, and green with a little
tension on the articulation unit when in- buf for highlights. he decals silvered a lit-
ishing each unit’s upper section. Instead, tle, probably because the surface was
assemble each unit separately, leaving the not as glossy as it should have been.
articulation unit as a separate subassem-
bly, all to be connected once the
vehicle is painted and
weathered.
Single road wheels
are mounted on thin
T
here’s a new Corsair kit on the point out diferences in versions and With so few parts, the Corsairs were
market that includes the option optional parts. I built a late-war F4U-1D in quickly ready for paint. I used Testors
of folded wings and dropped classic dark sea blue and a Royal Navy Fleet Model Master dark sea blue for the
laps. Yawn … nothing new here, Air Arm F4U-1. F4U-1D, and extra dark sea gray, dark slate
you say. Except this is in 1/144 scale and Construction is exceptionally quick with gray, and sky from Hataka’s new “Orange
the idelity and detail are outstanding. And few parts, but before closing up the fuselage Line” FAA acrylic lacquers for the F4U-1.
if that’s not enough, there are two kits in and the wings you must decide on ordnance he decals were troublefree — even the tiny
the box. options as the mounting holes need to be prop logos.
AFV Club, better known for armor kits, opened. Again, AFV provides numerous For the F4U-1D, I added the canopy
has released several aircraft in 1/144 scale, choices for underwing stores. I selected and antenna posts, and hand-painted them.
including this double kit of the famous drop tanks and rockets for the F4U-1D, A small piece of Uschi van der Rosten
bent-wing Vought. Options are plentiful. In but the 5-inch HVAR rockets are so tiny superine stretchable nylon was used for the
addition to posable wings and laps, the kit they are molded linked together, somewhat antenna wire. he wings mounted easily on
allows for any of four versions to be built: delating the scale appearance. the sturdy pins, but they didn’t seem to fold
an F4U-1 “birdcage” as well as the he “birdcage” canopy is elegantly han- as far as some photos show. I hand-painted
F4U-1A, -1C, and -1D. AFV doesn’t dled by cutting of a portion of the fuselage the FAA Corsair’s canopy.
skimp on decals either, providing eight behind the cockpit and replacing it with a It took me just a shade over 12 hours to
marking options. tiny part with rearview cutouts. complete both Corsairs, but more time
You’ll need to decide which version to I left the cowlings of both planes, so I could have been spent separating the tail
build early, but the instructions carefully didn’t have to mask the tiny engines. hook. With kits of this quality I hope AFV
Separate parts are provided to model the Club continues expanding its tiny air wing.
extended or folded wings as well as optional – Chuck Davis
position laps. I built one set of each, both
with laps deployed. he wing-fold inserts
are extremely thin and in were bro-
ken in my kit. However, the
parts it ine and the mounting
post to attach the folded outer
wing was intact. Fit of the wings,
like the other assemblies was
exemplary — I used no iller.
Kit: No. AR 14408 Scale: 1/144 he petite landing gear is
Mfg.: AFV Club, www.hobbyfan.com.tw fragile too and diicult to remove
Price: $26 Comments: Injected-molded, from the sprue without breaking.
124 parts, decals Pros: Two complete kits; he size of the gear moldings made it
well-engineered; fine detail; numerous impossible to include gaps between the
options Cons: Tailhook molded solid with many struts, most noticeably the tail hook
tail wheel which is molded to the tail wheel with a
triangular slab.
ySS
y
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FINAL DETAILS
By Elizabeth Nash
The
Flying Egg
takes to
the skies!
W
hile celebrating 50 Needing to stretch the helicop-
years in business, ters’s design only slightly, Hasegawa
Squadron hosted the developed its own Hughes 500 egg-
27th EagleQuest — plane. Jeanet built it out-of-the-box
an annual June show and contest in and gave it comical context.
Grapevine, Texas.
his show attracts models from Paint job
every category: armor, aircraft, igures, Jeanet started with a primer base coat
vehicles, sci-i, etc. of Tamiya acrylics. She then pre-
And then, of course, there’s the shaded to bring out the exaggerated
miscellaneous category, where some dimensions.
of the most out-there and humorous To paint the yolk-like color, she
builds can be found. used a Badger 200 airbrush. To inish,
Sitting in this section was Jeanet she applied a glossy topcoat freehand,
Burnett’s sunny-side-up-colored making the “Flying Egg” shine.
Hughes 500 eggplane. It stood out Because the pre-shading provided
immediately with its bright hue and enough contrast, and because she
clever composition. wanted a clean, unscrambled, look,
Jeanet skipped weathering.
The real deal
he Hughes MD 500 is a civilian Setting the foundation
light helicopter, hailing from the She cleaned out a carton of Egg
Go online to learn Army’s OH-6 Cayuse. It entered Beaters and, not wanting it to fall over
Want to put your aircraft in flight? Go to FineScale. service in the 1960s. and crack, added weights for stability.
com and type “acrylic rod” into the search bar — Nicknamed the “Flying Egg” A clear, acrylic rod joined the car-
you’ll find an in-depth Builder Basics story on posing because of its characteristically ton and makeshift base (or you might
your model above its base with the help of a clear, oviform fuselage, the small aircraft call it a nameplate).
organic-looking, plastic stand. was agile and small enough to land Out of the skillet and into the
where larger helicopters could not. skies! FSM
• Ea
• Cr
PL
• 12
www.FineScale.com 67