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QAV ZMR 250 Assembly Build Guide - Guides - DroneTrest https://www.dronetrest.

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QAV ZMR 250 Assembly Build Guide Jan 2016

multirotor, cc3d , zmr250 1 / 24


Jan 2016
Sam  Unmanned Tech Jan '16

M ay 23

This is another addition to our beginners guide series and this covers the build the ZM R250 m ini FPV
quadcopte r . This kit is a very usef ul and af f ordable kit as it includes all the basic components you need
to complete your f irst build. To get this quad in the air, you w ill need to add a suitable battery, a radio control
and a radio receiver that is compatible w ith that controller. For this kit, w e recommend the Tattu 1300m ah
45C LiPo batte ry pack and the RadioLink T4EU 4 channe l radio control w ith R7EH re ce ive r .

If you have any questions at any time throughout this guide, please ask below in the comments section and
I’ll be happy to help.

Kit used in this build


ZM R 250 DIY Quadcopte r Kit
Tattu 1300m ah 3S 45C LiPo batte ry pack
RadioLink T4EU 4 channe l radio control w ith R7EH re ce ive r
Drone Buildr Tool k it
Soldering Iron
Some bits and bobs (e.g. electrical tape)

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Accompanying Video
If you w ould pref er to see this ZMR250 beginners guide in video f orm, but w e cover more details in the
w ritten guide or if you nerd help ask us a question below

M otor and ESC Connection


Ok, let’s get dow n to it. A good place to start is w ith the motors and electronic speed controllers (ESCs)
that you get w ith this kit. These motors and ESCs now come w ith bullet connectors and so you can easily
connect (and disconnect) them. This may be essential as you must connect the motors cables to the ESC
cables in a specif ic w ay to ensure they s pin in the corre ct dire ction . The correct method of
connection is show n below .

Tip: If you have lost track of the motor orientation, the w ay the propeller nut unlock s is the direction
the motor should spin in. I.e. the motors in the boxes labeled ‘R’ should spin clockw ise and their
propeller nuts unlock by unscrew ing them clockw ise.

It’s a good idea to test the motor spin direction af ter connection. You can do this w ith the aid of a s e rvo
te s te r and a suitable battery (such as the one recommended f or this kit). If you do not have a servo tester,
you can just use the radio receiver and radio control.

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QAV ZMR 250 Assembly Build Guide - Guides - DroneTrest https://www.dronetrest.com/t/qav-zmr-250-assembly-build-guide/1244

And so there w e have it; the motors connected to the ESCs (correctly hopef ully).

M otor Installation
Now w e attach the motors to the arms of the ZMR250 mini quadcopter. I have f ound that it is a good idea to
label the arms in relation to w hich motor you attach to it f or f uture ref erence. So there are tw o clockw ise
(CW) motors and tw o counter-clockw ise (CCW) motors and so w e label tw o arms w ith CW, and tw o w ith
CCW (make sure to attach the correct motor to the correct arm). You can label the arms in any w ay that
you w ish, here w e have used some sticky paper that w e had laying around.

Frame Build
Now that w e have all f our motors attached to their respective arms, w e can now get on w ith most of the
f rame side of the build. You w ill notice that there are tw o bottom plates of the f rame (these tw o are
identical to each other) and one top plate, w hich is more narrow than the other tw o. The arms (w ith the
motors attached) w ill be sandw iched betw een the tw o bottom plates. Bef ore w e do this how ever, w e
need to attach the red standof f s to one of the bottom plates as show n below . The arms are then placed
under this plate and the appropriate screw s are threaded though the holes. Make sure to attach the arms in
the correct place corresponding to the image below (this is w hy w e labeled the arms earlier).

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QAV ZMR 250 Assembly Build Guide - Guides - DroneTrest https://www.dronetrest.com/t/qav-zmr-250-assembly-build-guide/1244

Even though the holes themselves are not threaded, it is a good idea to actively screw these in w ith a hex-
cap screw driver as the holes are quite tight. This turns out to be quite usef ul as it then holds the arms in
place f or the next stage.

Af ter you have threaded the screw s though the one plate and the arms, you must thread the servo cables
of the ESCs (the orange, red and brow n cable) through one of the conveniently placed holes in the plate
(see photos). Make sure to thread these cables through the holes nearest the centre of the plate, on the
same side as the ESCs themselves are on.

We can now attach the low er plate. You do this by slotting the screw s into the plate (or screw ing). When
doing this, be caref ul not to w edge any w ires betw een the tw o plate (i.e. the red and black pow er cables
coming f rom the ESCs). Obviously, as you have slotted the servo cables through the tw o holes in the upper
plate, these w ill be sandw iched betw een the tw o plates but try to ensure that they are f lat rather than
vertical w hen attaching the low er plate. Once the screw s are though the bottom plate, then you secure the

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plate w ith the nuts provided. These are applied as show n and it is usef ul to have a hex-cap screw driver
w ith a socket driver to make this application easier (this are supplied in the Drone Buildr Tool Kit ).

Bef ore w e move on to the next stage, it is a good idea to label the servo w ires f rom the ESCs (the ones
w e threaded through the f rame). Now , w e need to label them as each one corresponds to one specif ic
motor, and each specif ic motor is numbered. This numbering is specif ied by the sof tw are that w e w ill be
using (Libre pilot ) and this states that the motors are numbered as show n in the diagram below . We
theref ore label the servo w ire f rom the ESC connected to the motor on the top lef t arm as ‘1’ and so on.
Again, you can do this in any w ay you w ish, w e used a non-permanent marker pen here.

This top diagram also show s you how the ESC servo cables w ill be connected to the f light controller (that’s
the reason f or all this numbering) as w ell as how the receiver is connected - a pretty usef ul pic that I may
be ref erring back to.

Soldering the battery cable to the power distribution board (PDB)##


So, w e now have the majority of the f rame built. We have the tw o bottom plates connected (via the arms)
w ith the red standof f s attached to the top bottom plate… if you know w hat I mean. We also have the
motors attached to the arms, and the motors connected to the ESCs. Perf ect. We now start on the
soldering of the battery cable to the PDB. In this example, w e use the small black PDB provided in the
ZMR250 kit as w e have f ound that it is smaller and easier to install. This is going to be attached to the
bottom of our quadcopter w ith the aid of a f ew of the zip-ties that are provided in the kit.

Those w ith keen eyes and observational skills w ill notice that there isn’t a pre-soldered battery cable
provided in the kit; there are just some cables and various connectors. We theref ore have to f irst solder
the correct connector to the ends of the loose cables. As mentioned previously, w e w ill be using the Tattu
1300m ah 45C LiPo batte ry pack (w hich comes w ith an XT60 connector) and so w e must solder the
provided XT60 connector to the loose cables (please use the 16aw g size cables). Please ensure that the
correct w ires are soldered to the correct ports in the XT60 connector as w e don’t w ant to be connecting
red cable w ith black and vice versa w hen you plug it into the battery… this w ould not end w ell. This
proce s s is a bit trick y if you’re ne w to s olde ring and s o w e have cre ate d a quick vide o guide
on this to he lp you out.

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QAV ZMR 250 Assembly Build Guide - Guides - DroneTrest https://www.dronetrest.com/t/qav-zmr-250-assembly-build-guide/1244

Once w e have the battery cable soldered and ready to go, w e solder it to the PDB as show n. The most
important thing to remember w hen completing this step is that there are tw o kinds of pads; negative and
positive. The black w ires have to soldered to a negative pad and the red w ires have to be soldered to a
positive pad. It’s also important to solder the battery cable to these exact pads on the PDB as w e need
room f or the ESC cables.

Solde ring tips . If you are new to soldering, here are a f ew quick tips:

1. Once the iron is hot, dab a bit of solder on the tip to f ocus the heat;
2. For soldering PDBs, f irst add a bit of solder to the pads bef ore trying to solder the ESC w ires onto
them;
3. ‘Tin’ the ESCs w ires by covering the bared tips w ith solder;
4. When soldering the ESCs w ires to the PDB, place the w ire on the appropriate pad and then touch the
w ires w ith the iron tip. It w ill take a f ew seconds to heat the solder and the w ire w ill ‘sink’ into the
solder previously applied to the pad. Ensure that most of the w ire tip is covered w ith solder.

Soldering the ESCs and attaching the PDB


We can now use the skills you learnt in the last step (if you didn’t have them already) to solder the ESC
pow er cables to the PDB. These cables are soldered to the pads that make the most sense space-w ise.
The entire connection diagram f or this quad is show n below .

Don’t w orry if this seems a bit complicated now ; w e w ill go through this step by step. This diagram w ill
hopef ully be a usef ul device to ref er back to throughout your build. As w e w ill install the PDB on the b ottom
of the ZMR250, w e have a bottom and top view in this diagram to represent w hat you need to do clearly
(that’s w hy the motor positions change). Here’s w hat the PDB should look as you solder on the ESCs.

Af ter completing this job (w ith perhaps a f ew hiccups along the w ay), w e can secure the PDB onto the
f rame. We do this w ith some of the zip-ties provided in the ZMR250 kit. The application of these is f airly
straight f orw ard but there are a f ew things to look out f or. Firstly, avoid trapping the pow er cables inside
the zip-ties w hen applying, w e don’t w ant any severed ESC pow er cables. Slip the zip-ties around only
one of the bottom plates f or more security and thread up through the hole in the PDB.

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Tip: to make this easier, bend the tip of the zip-tie bef ore attempting to thread it through the tw o bottom
plates. This w ill make it much easier to then thread it through the PDB hole.

Once w e have done this, w e must then cover the PDB w ith electrical tape. Unf ortunately, this is not
provided in the ZMR250 kit but it can be purchased easily f rom online shops such as eBay. We do this to
ensure that the board doesn’t short-circuit.

Securing the ESCs and Installing the CC3D Flight Controller


We now have all the ESC pow er cables soldered to the PDB and the PDB itself is f astened to the f rame.
We no need to quickly secure the ESCs themselves onto the arms of the f rame. We again do this w ith
some of the zip-ties provided in the ZMR250 kit and w e simply put one zip-tie around the middle of the ESC
and the arm. Be sure to f old any excess cables underneath the ESC bef ore tightening the zip-tie and
ensure that no cables impede the motor in any w ay.

Once this is done, w e move on to installing the CC3D f light controller. The best w ay to do this is by using
the 3M double-sided mounting f oam w hich is included in w ith the CC3D. Be caref ul in regards to the
orientation of the board w hen you apply it to the f rame as the best w ay of mounting it is contrary to the
arrow that is on the CC3D f light controller (highlighted in red in the picture below ). We mount it this w ay as
w e need to be able to access the USB plug w hen w e have completed the build (f or conf iguration). Placing
the USB plug to the side of the quad is theref ore the best. The ESC connector rail show n in the photo
show s w here w e w ill be plugging in the ESC servo w ires in the next step.

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Connecting the ESCs to the CC3D


Now w e come to plugging the servo w ires (brow n, red and orange cable) into the CC3D f light controller
(so the f light controller can tell the ESCs w hat to do). This is w here the numbering of these cables comes
in handy as now w e simply plug the ESC w ire labeled ‘1’ into the set of pins that is also labeled ‘1’ etc. You
must also take care to plug in the servo cables in the correct w ay. In the picture below , you w ill see that
the pins are labeled w ith a ‘o’, a ‘+’ and a ‘-’. The ‘o’ corresponds to the orange w ire (signal), the ‘+’
corresponds to the red w ire (5V) and the ‘-’ corresponds to the brow n w ire (ground). You must ensure
that all the servo cables are plugged in this w ay.

At this point, it is also a good idea to thread the battery cable (the f irst thing w e soldered to the PDB)
through the f rame, through the hole nearest the CC3D board as show n. The cable w ill just f it through this
hole (conveniently) and it is a good idea to do this so the installation of the battery later on is easy.

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Check Point
So, w e’re pretty much there at this point as f ar as the build goes. Below is an image of w hat w e should
have at this stage. We have the motors attached to the arms, the ESCs soldered to the PDB and w e have
the servo cables f rom the ESCs connected to the CC3D f light controller.

We now go on to the installation of the radio receiver and the f inal stages of the build.

Connecting the Receiver


Connecting the receiver is a simple task w ith the CC3D as the necessary cable comes w ith the f light
controller and there are no unnecessary complications. So, to begin w ith, w e simple insert the cable into
the input port of the CC3D. This is the one directly f acing the back of the quad and the cable goes in as
show n below .

We then move on to connecting the other ends into the receiver. The receiver w e are using here is the
R7EH receiver that comes w ith the Radiolink radio control. We plug each w ire into the receiver as show n.
The order of the w ires f ollow s that of the end plugged into the CC3D board i.e. w hite, blue, yellow , green,
yellow , black. You do have to be caref ul w hich w ay around you insert these w ires. You w ill notice that of
the eight separate w ires in this cable pack, three are grouped together into one connector, and the rest
have their ow n separate connector. The group of three consist of a signal w ire (w hite), the 5V w ire (red)
and the ground w ire (black). This is the only cable that actual pow ers the receiver and the others are
simply signal w ires. All signal w ires have to be plugged into the top row of pins (as this is the signal row ).
The correct w ay of doing this is show n below .

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Note: each one of these w ires corresponds to a f unction on the radio e.g. throttle, roll, pitch etc.

We now f asten the receiver to the f rame. An ideal place is just behind the CC3D board and w e f ind that it is
best to use some adhe s ive -back e d ve lcro here (so you can easily unf asten the receiver if you need to).
You simply apply one side to the receiver, and one side to the f rame and stick it dow n.

Final Build and Adding the Battery


So now w e just need to add the top plate of the f rame and then the battery, exciting! We attach the top
plate w ith the small screw s lef t over and the battery w ill sit on top of this plate. We secure it w ith the
velcro strap that is included w ith the ZMR250 kit. It’s a good idea to bend the battery cable back on itself
and secure dow n w ith the velcro strap so that the cable is not protruding out of the main f rame.

And there w e have it, build done (minus the propellers)! We’ll leave the props of f f or now as w e now need
to conf igure the CC3D f light controller and to decrease the chance of f inger loss, it’s alw ays a good idea to
leave the props of f .

CC3D Flight Controller Configuration


Now all you have to do is conf igure the CC3D f light controller. We f igured this part w as easier show n via
the medium of video so please check out our ZM R250 CC3D Configuration Guide w ith Libre Pilot
vide o below …

Propeller Installation
So af ter the CC3D conf iguration, w e’re basically done! All w e need to do is attach the propellers w hich is a
pretty simple process. You just need to be aw are that there are tw o dif f erent types of propellers; counter-
clockw ise (CCW) and clockw ise (CW) spinning ones. You theref ore need to attach the correct props to the
correct motors.

So, the propellers provided in the kit have either 5030R or 5030 marked on them. We need to attached a
propeller marked w ith 5030R to the top lef t and the bottom right motor. Subsequently, w e need to attach a

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propeller marked w ith 5030 to the top right and bottom lef t motors as the pictures below show .

There should be tw o dif f erent colours of propellers in your kit also (in this case green and black). It is
usef ul to attach tw o propellers of the same colour to the tw o f ront motors, and tw o propellers of a
dif f erent colour to the back tw o motors. This is so you can easily see the orientation of your quad w hen it’s
up in the air and you’ve maybe lost track of w hich w ay it is f acing.

Note : There are plastic prop adapters w ith these propellers but you do not need to use these as the props
f it pretty perf ectly w ithout them.

The End!
And there w e have it! A f ully-assembled, f ully-conf igured ZMR 250 mini quadcopter! You can now plug in

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the battery and go f lying! This kit obviously has no FPV gear attached (yet) but it is probably a good idea f or
you to go out and get some f lying practice bef ore attaching the FPV gear (as this w ill add more cost in the
event of a crash…). Please see our How to add FPV to the ZM R250 Guide to learn how to add FPV
gear (unsurprisingly!).

Happy f lying and don’t f orget, if you do have any questions, please let me know in the comment section
below and I w ill do my best to get back to you quickly.

 ZM R250 CC3D Configuration Guide w ith Libre Pilot


 Naze 32 Re vis ion 6 Flight Controlle r Guide
 Is this a good de al for m y firs t quadcopte r
 DIY quadcopte r for $250
 DJI Phantom 4 is re le as ing. Your Thoughts ?
3 m ore

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