Textile Finishing

Textile Finishing - 1
Overview
• Literature and Information
• Organisation
• Contents

• Fibres
• Definitions
• Pretreatment of Cotton

Textile Finishing - 1
Literature

• Perkins: Textile Coloration and Finishing

• J. Shore: Cellulosics Dyeing
• D. Heywood: Textile Finishing
• VEB Fachbuchverlag: Veredlung von Textilien
• H.-K. Rouette: Handbuch Textilveredlung
• H.-K. Rouette, M. Peter: Grundlagen der
Textilveredlung
• M. Peter: Grundlagen der Textilveredlung
• H. Rath: Lehrbuch der Textilchemie
• A. Giessmann: Substrat- und Textilbeschichtung

Textile Finishing - 1
Information

Journals/Associations
• Melliand
• SDC, TVI, VDTF…

Exhibitions/Fairs
• Aachen Textile Conference (29.-30.11.2007)

Textile Finishing - 1
Contents

• Preparation processes
– Cotton: singeing, desizing, scouring, mercerizing,
bleaching, brightening
– Wool: Washing, carbonisation, milling
– Silk: degumming
– Polyester: washing, thermo setting
• Finishing
– mechanical: raising, shearing, sanding, calendering,
– Mechanical/chemical: decatising, shrinking
– chemical: anti creasing/easy care, softening,
hydrophobic/oleophobic finishing
– coating, laminating
Textile Finishing - 1
End uses and their market share

Heimtextilien
home textiles
29%

technical
technische textiles
Textilien
40%

apparel
Bekleidung
31%

Source: Gesamtverband der deutschen

Textile Finishing - 1 Textil- und Modeindustrie
Quantity of fibres/industry (D)

Man-made fibres Cotton Wool

Apparel
~ 59 % ~ 25 % ~ 16 %
industry
Domestic
~ 82 % ~ 15 % ~3%
textiles
Technical
~ 98 % ~ 2% -
textiles

Total 82% 12% 6%

Source: Gesamtverband der deutschen

Textile Finishing - 1 Textil- und Modeindustrie
Global Fibre Demand
Market Shares of Textile Fibres (Volume [t], 2005)
Total app. 65.531.000 Tons

(4.112.000 to) (1.211.000 to)

6,6 % PA 7,0 % PP 2,0 % WO
(3.886.000 to)
36 % CO
(21.137.000 to)

38,6 % PES
(22.613.000 to)
4,9 % CV
(2.852.000 to)
4,6 % PAN
(2.696.000 to)
Textile Finishing - 1
Source : PCI Fibres, World Synthetic Fibres Supply/Demand Report 2004, CIRFS 2007
 Textile chain
Primary- Filaments und yarns
and secondary-
spinning processes

Fabrication Non-woven, woven fabrics and

of fabrics knitted fabrics , ribbons …

Textile finishing

Ready-to-wear
clothing
Distribution/trade/
consumption/
preparation
ecological relevance
Waste/
Recycling

Textile Finishing - 1
Sub-processes of textile finishing

Textile finishing

=
Finishing and
coating

+
Coloration Finishing +
Pretreatment (Dyeing and printing) coating

Preparation Optical effects Haptic effects

for all Optical effects
following Functional effects
processes
Textile Finishing - 1
Finishing

• Classification according to methods

– dry/wet
– mechanical/chemical
– subtractive/additive
• Classification by substrates
• Classification by finished products
• Classification by form of supply and
manufacturing processes
– Loose stock, yarn/filament, surface area: hank/„open
width“
– continuous, semi continuous , discontinuous

Textile Finishing - 1
Textile auxiliaries

Statistic of textile processing agents D, 2000

[total volume 84 451 t]

9% 13% spinning

weaving and knitting

5%
preparation
3%
Coloration

Finishing

18% Detergents

52%

Source: TEGEWA

Textile Finishing - 1
Distribution of textile auxiliaries
Finishing agents [%]
1% 1% 0,3% coating
2%
2%2% softener
5%
22% flame retardants

6% easy care

stiffening

variation of handle

hydrophobic/oleophobic
12%
finish
non-slip finish

whitening agents

19% sewing thread finish

antistatics
13%
antifelting finishing
agents
antimicrobial finish
15%

Haptic variations Functional finish

Textile Finishing - 1
Preparation
Preparation of grey cloth for the following
finishing processes :
Pre-treatment
• Removal of all interfering
substances (due to growing dry wet
or product processes) processes processes

• Increasing of the absorbing mechanical- washing

capacity for dye stuffs, thermal desizing
auxiliaries and chemicals processes: mercerizing
relaxing
• Removal of latent tensions polishing, bleaching
singeing, brightening
• fixation
cutting, milling
setting carbonisation
stabilisation degumming
etc. etc.
Textile Finishing - 1
Finishing and coating
Finishing +
Last production step after coating*
dyeing to improve or
mechanical chemical
modify the textiles: processes processes

• touch and handle raising

variation in
fabric handle
• product surface shearing dimensional stability
sanding
water-repellent
• optic calendering oil-repellent
pressing hydrophilic
• function steaming antimicrobial
shrinking antistatic
• wash and wear decatising flame retardant
etc.
properties finishing

*laminating
Textile Finishing - 1 *coating