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Tegu Food List

 Whole prey – ALWAYS a healthier choice than ground meats/organ meats as ground and
organ parts lack a lot of valuable nutrition.

*Always remember your insects are only as healthy as YOU make them. Feed and gutload
them with a quality insect chow and fresh fruits/veggies. It is important not to feed dog, cat
or fish food to your insects as that creates a build up of uric acid and can cause dehydration
and gout in your reptiles.

* Remember frozen/thawed or prekilled is safest for your reptile. Preferably do NOT feed live.

o Captive raised insects o Whole fish like sardines,

silversides, smelt, trout etc
o Crickets
o Scallops
o Roaches
o Mini crab or soft shell crab
o Meal worms
o Quail chicks
o Super worms
o Baby chickens
o Wax worms
o Rabbit kits (pinkies)
o Silk worms
o Mice
o Horn worms
o Rats
o Night crawlers earthworms
o Hamster
o Snails – NOT wild caught.
o Gerbil
o Crayfish/crawdads
o ReptiLinks
o Shrimp/Prawns – shell on

 Meat (Remember, always offer raw, tegus cannot digest cooked meats)

o Soft-boiled whole egg or raw egg o Lamb

yolk, no whites.– given in o Turkey
moderation. Quail eggs are
healthier than chicken eggs. o Venison

o Chicken o Frog legs

o Fowl
o Beef in moderation as too much o Organ meats: liver, hearts,
can cause liver and kidney gizzards – Go easy on liver as it
damage. contains high amounts of Vit D
which can be overdosed.
o Fresh fish filets – choose low in
mercury fish, freshwater is better
than saltwater

 Fruits Tropical fruits:

o Mango, o Tomatoes- high in oxalates**
o Papaya o Berries: Strawberries- high in
oxalates** and goitrogens* so in
o cantaloupe
o honeydew
o blueberries
o casaba
o raspberries
o watermelon
o blackberries
o Bananas- in moderation
o Figs -fresh or dried Dates
o Apples- in moderation
o Kiwi
o Cherries
o Peaches- high in goitrogens*
o Grapes- Thompson seedless;
o Pears- high in oxalates**
green and red Concord grapes
higher in oxalates o Pumpkin

 Veggies

o Acorn squash, o Leeks

o butternut squash o Prickly pear cactus
o Kabocha squash o Dark leafy greens like:
o Parsnip o Chicory greens (Escarole)
o Alfalfa o Collard greens Dandelion
o Okra o greens Endive
o Green beans o Mustard greens Turnip greens
o Green peas, o Spaghetti squash
o snap peas o Bell peppers
o Rapini Zucchini o Cabbage- in moderation, high in
o Yellow squash
o Cauliflower- in moderation, high
o Radish Yucca root-
in goitrogens*
cassava- tough, should be
shredded o Coriander- in moderation, high in
o Asparagus Broccoli in
moderation, high in oxalates** o Rutabaga Sweet potato-
o Beets and Beet greens in o feed rarely Corn- feed rarely or
moderation, high in oxalates** never, low in Ca and high in
Phosphorus Spinach- feed rarely
o Carrots and tops in moderation,
or never, high in oxalates and
high in oxalates**
o Bok choy - in moderation, high in
o Swiss chard- feed rarely or never,
high in oxalates**
o Brussels sprouts- high in
o Lettuces -low in nutrition
o Celery- low in nutrition
o Parsley- good source of calcium
o Cucumber- low in nutrition

Hatchling tegus will all take the same food up until about one year in age. Of these
the Salvator merianae Common name (Argentine Black and White), (Giant Tegu) And
the Salvator rufescens , Common name (Argentine red Tegu), (Red tegu) will change feeding
habits. The Blue Tegu is also a form of the Salvator merianae , but the Tupinambis teguixin,
Common name (Colombian Black and White), or (Gold Tegu) Will stay on a Omnivores diet
throughout their life. All Tegus are omnivores as hatchlings, which means they eat meat,
fruits, and veggis. I do allow baby tegus to eat as much as they want to, except rodents. I feed
them one once or twice a week, and also make sure they are the size that can swallow without
too much trouble. Crickets dusted with vitamins dust, Captive raised roaches, Mealworms,
Super mealworms, gut loaded crickets, wax worms, butterworms, and phoenix worms, Pinkie
mice and cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled. The Calcium I have faith in is Zoo-
Med Repti Calcium without D3 and a multivitamin Repashy SuperVite . Most other products
are made from crushed oyster shells, and are not able to be absorbed. Therefore, being a
poor product for a good healthy tegu.As for my adults, I feed them everyday, as in the babies,
the get one whole rodent, chick or duckling once or twice a week. However, my tegus do
hibernate up to 7 months out of the year. If you have a tegu that does not hibernate, you can
cut back on feeding him as much, or as frequent. Judged by the animal keeping good body
weight, and a fat round tail base. If he starts to look like he might be loosing body mass, you
can always add more to the diet.Please remember to remove any food that is not eaten right
after your tegu has eaten his/her fill. Insects are well known for stressing reptiles. This also
will help keep their cage cleaner. Adult tegus, for the Argentine Black and White and the
Argentine red Tegu, the Blue Tegu and as well as the Extreme Giant tegus, they will take
ground turkey; cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled. You should avoid uncooked
eggs for two reasons.
1. The egg cleaning process is poor at best. Salmonella is found in the intestinal tracts of
reptiles, birds, animals, insects and humans. It is found on the outside of the egg shell
before the egg is washed or it may be found inside the egg if the hen was infected by
Salmonella. It is always best to cook the eggs before feeding them to your animal.
Salmonella is best destroyed by heat, so cooking is the best way to insure that there
is no Salmonella being past on to your pet. I hope this better helps you to understand
why we cook our eggs prior to feeding.
2. Raw eggs also contain an enzyme called avidin, this enzyme decreases the absorption
of biotin and can lead to skin problems in reptiles. When you cook the eggs you
neutralize this enzyme, thus changing the makeup of the egg.
Also rodents, fresh fish (Not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby
chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruits.
Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is due to the
high content of potassium (Known for not binding with calcium). Not more than once every
couple of weeks. They also tend to have very high phosphorous levels. Some of my Argentine
tegus will not eat fruit. There are many things out there to feed your tegus. The Colombian
Black and White, or (Gold Tegu) will take all of the above, and fruit. Also, I suggest feeding
only killed rodents. Live rodents can bite your animal. Dead do not it is just not worth the
chance. .

A side note on feeding: Tegus can get cage aggressive. They can get to where they will
associate their keeper with food. There are a couple of ways to keep this from happening. The
first is to feed your tegu in a separate cage or area than his home. Have the food there when
you put him with it. Another way, would be to feed him at night or when he is in his hide.
Then he will not see you with food. The first suggestion is the best for a few reasons. One you
handle him every day, which helps with the taming process. Another reason would be to
remove all chances of him ingesting substrate. And last, but not least, the food would be
fresher than feeding at night.
In my opinion, feeding fruit for skin problems has solid ground to back the claims of some
keepers. There are fruits to promote good sheds but moisture, all though some fruits do
contain some vitamins that are not good for skin. There are other things that do contain the
right vitamins, such as beef liver and cod liver oil. These need to be fed in conjunction with
each other. Another words feed both of them once a week as a meal.

A good diet and proper husbandry is the best way to promote good sheds in tegus.

Water: Tegus require fresh water on a daily basis. It also would be recommended that their
water dishes/bowls be big enough to soak in