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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SERBIA
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
SERBIA
Author Matt Willis
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Contents
Produced by Bigmetalfish Design Services How to Use this Guide 6
Project Manager and Designer Sunita Gahir
Project Editor Ankita Awasthi Tröger
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in Discovering Serbia 10
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner. Putting Serbia
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. on the Map 14
ISBN 978 0 24124 717 4
Serbia Through
the Year 28
Travellers’ Needs
Where to Stay 124
Where to Eat
and Drink 130
The magnificent 15th-century Manasija Monastery, Central Serbia
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6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
The Danube has been the setting for much soon overwhelmed by the Islamic culture
places to visit have been num
of the region’s history, and provides a glo
rious backdrop to many of its sights today.
The Lepenski Vir archaeological site offers
of the expanding Ottoman Empire. The
Serb fortress at Golubac, which guarded
the entrance to the spectacular Iron Gates
bered on a Regional Map at the
an insight into the lives of the Mesolithic
and Neolithic settlers who carved fishlike
faces from sandstone pebbles in recogni
gorge, eventually fell to the Turks who
then erected Ram Fortress upstream to
strengthen their river defences. They also
beginning of each chapter.
tion of the river’s abundant food supply, built several hammams (baths) across the
while the Viminacium Roman military camp region; some, like the one at Sokobanja,
and the Diana Roman fort emphasize the have developed into popular spa resorts.
Danube’s early strategic importance. Of the many ethnic groups that migrated
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Felix here over the years, Wallachian Vlachs were
1
Romuliana, built by Emperor Galerius, is among the most common. They brought
Introduction
another Roman landmark in the region. with them distinct traditions and magical
It is also a reminder of the Romans’ pagan pagan rituals that are still practised by their
beliefs – Galerius was a keen persecutor isolated communities. The bestknown
Colourful Roman mosaic depicting a bird at Viminacium, founded as a Roman military camp in the 1st century AD
The Danube River flowing through the imposing cliffs of the Iron Gates gorge Exploring Northern Serbia
Novi Sad, northwest of Belgrade on the A1/E75 motorway,
makes an excellent jumping-off point from which to explore
central Vojvodina. The city is packed with fine architecture and
has the added bonus of Petrovaradin Fortress on the Danube’s
2
opposite bank. The wineries and historic buildings of Sremski
Regional Map
Karlovci are a day trip away, as are the ruins of the fortress at
Bač and Roman Sirmium at Sremska Mitrovica. The Fruška
Gora monasteries are within easy reach, and it is worth
allowing an extra day or so to explore them more thoroughly.
This shows the road network and Novi Sad is also a good base for Vršac, where a medieval
fortress towers over the city and the surrounding vineyards.
The A1/E75 continues north from Novi Sad past wheat, maize Subotica’s Art Nouveau synagogue, now
airports and gives an overview of and soya fields to the marvellous Art Nouveau city of Subotica. used for concerts and cultural events
Budapest
Lake
Lake
Ludaš
Kanjiža The twin towers of the Cathedral of St Nicholas and the grey spire of the Church of the Holy Trinity rising above the roofline of Sremski Karlovci
Bačka Ada or car is a better option. The A1/E75 motorway that runs
6 Subotica Sombor Topola between Belgrade, Novi Sad and Subotica is excellent,
7 Kovačica Mali Iđoš Novo Milošševo
but as the local roads are poorly signed car drivers will
8 Vršac WEST Srpska
Crnja need a satellite navigation system or a good road map.
Crvenka
9 Bela Crkva Apatin BAČKA Novi
Bečej Bašaid
Kula Bečej
Sonta
Vrbas Srbobran CENTRAL
Čurug
Odžaci SOUTH Melenci BANAT
BAČKA
Temerin Jaša Tomić
Bački Zrenjanin
(D Bačka
un NOVI SAD
av) Palanka
Ti
Fortress
Titel
Beočin Plandište
SREMSKI
iš
Main road
46 SERBIA AREA BY AREA BELGRADE 47 u Kovin
n
Sa (D
va u na v ) Railway
Paraćin
O
K
V
IS
Kosančićev venac
Much of the Old Town was devastated during the
A
catastrophic wars of the 20th century, but the home to some of Belgrade’s wealthiest
neighbourhood has retained its period charm. citizens. Following the line of the old Faculty of Fine Arts and Knez Mihailova
city walls and boasting wonderful river With a range of stores, Knez Mihailova is
views, it is a reminder of how the city the city’s main pedestrianized shopping
looked in the 19th century. street. At no. 53–55 stands the Faculty of
A C
V Fine Arts. Built in 1889 for lawyer Marko
. Embassy of France
Designed by French architect Roger-Henri Expert in R
A
1928, this is regarded as one of the city’s finest Art T
E
Deco structures. Sitting atop the edifice is French P
sculptor Carlo Sarrabezolles’s bronze statue of three A
J
L
women symbolizing liberté, égalité, fraternité. Kralja Petra School
K
N
Built by Prince Miloš in 1841 on the site of woman architect, Jelisaveta Načić.
A
É
A
N
O
T
V
E
IV
P
SA
3
forced to rename it in
Sa va
Street-by-Street Map
1892 (see p134). Built in
1823, the kafana boasts
its original interior.
Z ADA
. Kralja Petra
4 Detailed Information
96 SERBIA AREA BY AREA NORTHERN SERBIA 97
individually. They are listed in sites have been excavated. The becoming repositories for religious artwork and holy relics, and
Imperial Palace (Carska palata) fostering the copying and distribution of religious manuscripts.
ruins are a top attraction; the Only 15 communities remain, and although smaller and
interesting story about the town or sight. Teodor Kračun (1732–81). The
adjacent 1768 Roman Catholic
Church of the Holy Trinity
Road Map B2. 75 km (47 miles) W
of Belgrade. * 37,600. £ @
n Svetog Dimitrija 10, (022) 618275.
Vojvodina’s oldest towns lies on
the outskirts of Bač. First men
tioned in Byzantine Emperor
tasis which replaced Jakov
Orfelin’s older version in 1899.
(Crkva svetog Trojstva) is famed ∑ tosmomi.rs _ Aug: Srem Folk Justinian’s correspondence in 3 Staro Hopovo Monastery
for its Baroque wooden doors. Fest. ∑ sremfolkfest.org.rs 535, Bač was a fortified settle This tiny stone monastery was 7 Jazak Monastery
Further south is Serbia’s oldest ment that Mongolian invaders rebuilt in 1752 after the original Built in Morava School style
grammar school, founded in This pleasant town on the Sava sacked in 1241. The current fort 16thcentury wooden building with a trefoil base, Jazak’s
1791. Its current Art Nouveau has attractive buildings of the dates back to the 14th century was destroyed by an earthquake. church has an opulent Baroque
influenced structure was built in 18th and 19th centuries, but when Hungarian King Charles I iconostasis dating to 1769.
1891. There is also an excellent most visitors are riveted by what (1288–1342) built it on what
Tips for Drivers 8 Rakovac Monastery
was then an island. The Turks
Length: 85 km (53 miles). This The church has fragments of
conquered Bač in 1529 and held
The Wineries of Sremski Karlovci can be driven in a day, but it is 16thcentury frescoes as well
92 SERBIA AREA BY AREA NORTHERN SERBIA 93 it until 1699. It was then given as a 1763 Baroque iconostasis.
The town’s winemaking reputation goes back to the Ottoman era, worth spending two or three
to the Habsburgs, who deliber
when many citizens were involved in its production and often paid days here. A satellite naviga
ately destroyed the fort in 1704 4 Novo Hopovo Monastery 9 Đipša (Divša) Monastery
their taxes in wine. The dessert wine Bermet originates from here; its tion device is recommended.
to prevent the Hungarian rebels Known for its 17thcentury frescoes This 16thcentury monastery
1 Novi Sad secret recipe of fruit and spices is said to have been created by monks
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
who were trying to preserve the wines they produced. There are
under Rákóczi (1676–1735) from
Places to stay: Vrdnik village
has several decent dining and and a fine iconostasis by Baroque was rebuilt in 1744, and again
more than 20 wineries around town, each with its own specialities. taking control. The towers and accommodation options. master Teodor Kračun, St Nicholas in 1980 to repair World War II
The core of Serbia’s second city boasts broad pedestrianized Practical Information
Wine tastings can be arranged through the visitor information office. walls are in ruins but the central Church shows Byzantine influence. damage. It is an active nunnery.
streets lined with delightful Neo-Classical buildings and Road Map B2. 94 km (58 miles) keep has been fully restored.
NW of Belgrade. * 222,000.
outdoor cafés. Serbian merchants established Novi Sad as For hotels and restaurants in this region
n Trgsee p128 and
slobode 3/3,pp137–8
(021) 421811,
a trading town in 1694, shortly after the construction of 6617343. ∑ novisad.travel
Petrovaradin Fortress had begun across the Danube, and the _ Jul: EXIT Music Festival.
town matured into a “Serbian Athens” where Serbian culture Transport
flourished. In 1849 Hungarian troops in Petrovaradin shelled
the city, razing most of it. It escaped major damage during the
World Wars, but NATO’s 1999 bombing destoyed all three of
k Belgrade. £ @ v
A tour suggests the
best route covering
growing Jewish community. By
its bridges and much of its infrastructure. Novi Sad has since World War II about 4,000 Jews
undergone a transformation – the bridges have been rebuilt lived in Novi Sad, but only 1,000
and the damage repaired, there is a thriving social scene and survived the Nazi occupation;
L The Strand
area of natural beauty
or historical interest.
Sat–Sun. & free on Sun. = of Novi Sad, the Bačka Bishop’s The old 1740 building church is the city’s largest, yet its Štrand. Open Summer: 8am–10pm
∑ muzejvojvodine.org.rs Palace (Vladičanski dvor) is a was destroyed during P Freedom Square NeoGothic design, high narrow Mon–Fri, 8am–12am Sat–Sun. &
The incredibly broad collection marvellous fusion of Romantic the 1849 bombard Church: Open 8am–1pm daily. = windows and slender 72m 70-=
of the Museum of Vojvodina and Secessionist styles. The ment. Rebuilt in Encircled by splendid buildings, (236ft) spire lend it a graceful Hugely popular throughout the
(Muzej Vojvodine) covers the building features beautiful 1853, the Saborna Freedom Square (Trg slobode) air of weightlessness. Its cav summer, this riverside beach
region’s complex history in bifora and trifora windows crkva svetog Đorđa has been the city’s focal point ernous interior, illuminated by below Freedom Bridge (Most
exhaustive detail. framed by decorative stone has a barrelvaulted since it was laid out in the 18th several Hungarian stainedglass slobode) has a wide stretch of
Accompanied by work against walls clad interior with a century and used as a market windows, is lined with columns sand with deckchairs, umbrellas
Englishlanguage in warm brickred tiles. NeoBaroque place. Today celebrations and supporting the vaulted ceiling. and beach bars. There are also
5
handouts, the neatly The original palace belfry, superb Stained-glass exhibitions are held here. In the shaded grassy areas and plenty
arranged exhibi was destroyed by stainedglass church window centre stands a statue of Novi u Synagogue of activities for kids. It can get
tions document
Vojvodina during
the Roman Empire
heavy shelling from
Petrovaradin Fortress
across the river dur
windows, stunning
frescoes and a fine iconostasis
by Paja Jovanović (1859–1957).
Sad mayor, politician and writer
Svetozar Miletić (1826–1901).
The square’s southwestern side
Jevrejska.
One of over 20 designed by
the Hungarian architect Lipot
crowded, especially at weekends,
and the bars pump out dance
tunes all day. A 2km (1.5mile)
Town Map
Major towns have a map showing
and the medieval ing the Hungarian is dominated by the striking Baumhorn (1860–1932), the cycle lane and footpath runs
Hungarian Empire, Revolution of 1849 St Nicholas Church NeoClassical City Hall (Gradska Synagogue (Sinagoga) is dis next to the river between the
the Ottoman and and was replaced by Nikolajevska porta. Open 7am–7pm kuća), topped by a tower that tinctive for its Art Nouveau town centre and the beach,
Habsburg Empires, the current building daily. = once held “Matilda”, a bell that influenced façade. It was built which is also accessible by bus.
ĆE
VA ALE
KS
A ND
described in detail. The map also
E
SKA
ER E
fine 18thcentury carriage and
VSKA
GR
Church
KŠ
ŠUM
LE
3 Bačka Bishop’s Palace
IĆA
Danube
VASILJEVA
I ĆE
Z LA
DUŠANA
PA VA
as it looked a century ago. ŠI T RG
4 Cathedral of St George SVE
TOZ
Ć
A Cathedral of REP UBLIK
E
A RA St George MILOŠ
A BAJIĆ
5 St Nicholas Church
B EOGRAD
A
P Dunavska MI
ĆEV
Bačka Bishop’s
IĆA
LET Park
A
6 Freedom Square
SIL RK
IĆ A Palace
JEV
LA
F K OVI
za pse
Lined with charming pastel ZE
VA ŽA
TRG
TEL DU
NA
(Dunav)
Museum of
7 Synagogue
EČ
VSK
TR I
Serbian A
V A
G
A
Vojvodina
JO ZM
National DUNA
SKI
IĆA
A
Name of Mary
V IĆ
KEJ
Da nube
A
AS
N JA
US
Square
PE
PA V L
OVA
most
PA
A PA TRG
IJE
PA NI M
NS
O
Š A FA R I K
ZO
AT
PO D
KA
EN
RA
SA JA
NJ
E
EK AL
IG
PUPINA
AL KR
Cineplex
LA
VIĆA
A
Danube Park. It is one of Novi SK MIHAJ Petrovaradin Fortress
JOVANA
PO
EJ AR
BULEV 800 metres (870 yards)
70 SERBIA AREA BY AREA CENTRAL SERBIA 71
Š TA N S K A
JE 0 metres 300
originally used to transport Synagogue
The Strand
2.5 km (1.5 miles)
goods to and from the river. Bifora windows surrounded by decorative stonework, Bačka Bishop’s Palace 0 yards 300
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p128 and pp137–8 2 Manasija Monastery For map symbols see back flap VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Manastir Manasija Practical Information
Road Map D3. 150 km (93 miles)
Nestled deep in the forested Resava Valley, Serbia’s most SE of Belgrade, 3 km (2 miles) E
spectacular fortified monastery was founded by Despot of Despotovac. Tel (035) 611290.
Open May–Oct: 8am–7pm daily;
Stefan Lazarević in 1418. Wary of the expanding Ottoman
6
Nov–Apr: 8am–4pm daily. 8
Empire, Lazarević took the precaution of encircling his
accompanied by images. With its sculpted elements and stylized floral motifs,
this is a beautiful early example of the Morava
School, built by Lazarević as his burial church,
or, as his chronicler Constantine the Philosopher
Stefan Lazarević
A renowned patron of the arts,
described it, his “silent home”. Its façade has been Lazarević (1377–1427) was also
substantially rebuilt and lost much of its original one of Serbia’s most accom-
stonework, but the frescoed interior is still stunning. plished medieval writers. He
endowed Manasija Monastery
generously and invited monks
KEY and scholars here to continue
7
number of rides costs 89 dinars. of an officially registered Belgrade taxi safest, most attractive options. mation centres and bikes can
Practical Information
Those planning on staying One route follows the east be hired at Ada Ciganlija, Dorćol
longer can buy a BusPlus plastic bank of the Sava River from and Hotel Jugoslavija.
travelcard for 250 dinars, which Taxis Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija where iBikeBelgrade run various
has no limit to the number of If you follow a few simple rules it joins a second route that scheduled daily tours of the city
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INTRODUCING
SERBIA
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10 INTRODUCING SERBIA
DISCOVERING SERBIA
The following tours have been designed itinerary begins with an exploration of the
to take in as many of Serbia’s highlights as capital, followed by eight days covering
possible while keeping long-distance travel Serbia’s must-see sights in the south, north
to a minimum. First is a two-day route around and centre. The number of days required are
the country’s historic capital Belgrade, which based on visitors travelling independently
can be extended to four days by adding with a hire car; allow a couple of extra days
excursions to nearby attractions. The ten-day if you plan to rely on public transport.
Subotica
NOR TH
NOR TH BANAT
BAČKA
WEST
BAČKA
Vrbas
SOUTH
BAČKA
Novi Sad
Fruška Gora
SREM
Šabac
Užice
0 miles 50
0 kilometres 50
ZLATIBOR
Novi Sad
Serbia’s second city and capital of Vojvodina,
Novi Sad has a delightful historic core and plays
host to the internationally acclaimed EXIT Music
Festival, held annually in the mighty Petrovaradin
Fortress on the banks of the Danube River.
Frescoes painted on the dome of St Sava’s Church, next to the Temple of St Sava in Belgrade
DISCOVERING SERBIA 11
Karađorđe Mausoleum
Church of St George, Topola
This stunning church in Topola, clad in
white marble, boasts a monumental
portal with a mosaic of St George
slaying the dragon. The saint
is depicted with the face of
Karađorđe, symbolizing the
liberation of the Serbs.
SOUTH BANAT
Belgrade
ube Key
D an Viminacium
BRANIČEVO
PODUNAVLJE
BOR
Topola Manasija Negotin
Ten Days in Serbia
ŠUMADIJA Monastery
Resavska
Kragujevac Cave
•
Be amazed by the sheer size
of Smederevo Fortress.
POMORAVLJE
MORAVICA •
Try not to get spooked by
the macabre Skull Tower
Kraljevo ZAJEČAR
in Niš.
Ljubostinja Kruševac •
Marvel at the astonishing
Monastery
fortifications of medieval
RASINA NIŠAVA Manasija Monastery.
RAŠKA Niš •
Pamper yourself with some
TOPLICA
therapeutic spa treatments
Novi Pazar Pirot
Kuršumlija
at Prolom Banja.
Prolom Banja PIROT •
Contemplate the eerie
Devil’s Leskovac shapes of the rock forma
Town
JABLANICA tions at Devil’s Town.
•
Admire the resplendent
mosaics covering the
PČINJA
interior of the Karađorđe
KOSOVO Mausoleum Church of
Vranje St George in Topola.
•
Soak in the view of the
Danube and the fine
architecture of Novi Sad
from the ramparts of
Petrovaradin Fortress.
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12 INTRODUCING SERBIA
The White Palace’s arcaded corridor overlooking the gardens of the Royal Palaces in Dedinje, Belgrade
For practical information on travelling around Serbia, see pp160–65
DISCOVERING SERBIA 13
Church of the Holy Dormition at the 13th-century Žiča Monastery near Kraljevo, painted red to represent the blood of Christian martyrs
Smederevo (see p68) where Day 6: Devil’s Town Karađorđe Mausoleum Church
the medieval Serbian state was Drive two hours southwest of St George. Either stay here
crushed by the Ottomans in towards Kuršumlija to enjoy a overnight or continue north
1459. From here it is an hour’s pleasant walk through the leafy towards Belgrade.
drive to the archaeological site nature reserve that contains
at Viminacium (see p104), with Devil’s Town (see p120), Serbia’s Day 9: Novi Sad
its fascinating Roman ruins. most intriguing rock formations. Northwest of Belgrade on the
From here it is a long hike or a A1/E75 lies Novi Sad (see pp92–
short drive to Prolom Banja spa 5) with its fine architecture and
(see p120), where the hotel is a museums, as well as the impos
wonderful place to relax. ing Petrovaradin Fortress across
the Danube. The main sights
Day 7: Kruševac, Ljubostinja could detain you for a couple
Monastery and Kraljevo of days but, if time is short, they
A picturesque country road can be managed in a day.
leads north from Prolom Banja
to Kruševac (see p69), a pleasant Day 10: Fruška Gora
town that was the capital of The wooded hills of Fruška Gora
Serbia in the medieval era; its are a short drive south. Spend a
The Holy Trinity Church and Despot’s Keep excellent museum and Lazarica leisurely day driving or hiking to
at the 15th-century Manasija Monastery Church make a brief stop here the region’s pretty monasteries
worthwhile. If time permits, stop (see p97), with lunch at Krušedol
Day 4: Manasija Monastery at Ljubostinja Monastery (see or Vrdnik. Alternatively, plan
and Resavska Cave p69) on the way to Kraljevo (see a tasting tour of a few of the
The A1/ E75 offers a smooth link pp80–81), an enjoyable town area’s 60 or so wineries before
south to Manasija Monastery with several good places to enjoying therapeutic treatments
(see pp70–71), whose formidable stay and a lively riverside social at the Banja Vrdnik spa. Head
medieval fortifications make it scene during the summer. back to Belgrade via the A1/E75.
one of Serbia’s most spectacular
monasteries. Later, tour the cool Day 8: Kragujevac and
depths of Resavska Cave (see Topola
p68) before continuing south. Kragujevac (see p74) to the
northeast is a sprawling indus
Day 5: Niš trial city with a 19thcentury core
Spend a day exploring historic that is a legacy of its heyday as
Niš (see p116). Niš Fortress is an the first capital of the modern
obvious starting point, but there Serbian state. Spend the morn
is also the former Nazi concen ing at its central sights; save
tration camp that now houses time for the moving October
the thoughtprovoking Red 21st Memorial Museum, dedi
Cross Camp Museum, the grim cated to the civilians massacred
Skull Tower and the interesting by the Nazis in 1941. In the
remains of Constantine’s sum afternoon head to Topola (see Corridor decorated with a religious icon
mer villa at Mediana. p75) to see the remarkable at Fruška Gora’s Grgeteg Monastery
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14 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Szekszárd
Baja
Danu b e ( D
the country’s largest river, separates the northern plains of Vojvodina
from the rest of Serbia and forms a border with Romania to the east Osijek
and Croatia to the west. The Stara planina, Rhodope and Carpathian
na u
Dalj
Mountains run along Serbia’s eastern border with Bulgaria and
v)
Romania while the southwest is dominated by the Dinaric Alps. Đakovo
Belgrade, the capital, is Serbia’s largest city and stands at the Vukovar
confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers.
Orašje
Imotski
Omiš l
Šolta
Brač Potoci p Tjentište
Adriatic
Makarska Mostar s
Sea Hvar Drvenik
Gacko Plužine
Vis
Durmitor
2,522 m
Neum
SWEDEN
ESTONIA
Slano
MONTE
LATVIA
North DENMARK
Nikšić
LITHUANIA
Sea Dubrovnik
BELARUS
UNITED NETHERLANDS
KINGDOM POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM
Key
CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
Herceg-Novi Podgorica
SLOVAKIA Motorway
FRANCE SWITZ.
AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA Motorway under construction
SLOV. ROMANIA
Budva
CROATIA Main road
SERBIA
ITALY Other road
BULGARIA
Railway
SPAIN ALBANIA Bar
TURKEY International border
GREECE Ulcinj
Peak
TUNISIA 0 kilometres 50
ALGERIA Mediter ranean Sea
0 miles 50
Timișoara
Lugoj
Bretea-Română
Kula
Novi Bečej
ROMANIA
iš
Vrbas
m
Ta
Bač Zrenjanin Gătaia i ns
ta
Deta Caransebeș
Bačka
Palanka n
Novi Sad
ou
Sremski Karlovci Kovačica Vršac
Reșița M
n
Inđija Padinska
ia
Uljma
Skela
th
Sremska Batajnica Bela Crkva
Mitrovica
a
Pančevo Motru
rp
v)
Belgrade na
(D u
Ca
Sa Drobeta-
Šabac va nu b e Orșova
Da Turnu Severin
Smederevo Požarevac Đe
rd ap Kladovo
Loznica Na
tio
Koceljeva Kučevo na
Lazarevac l Pa r
k
S E R B I A Majdanpek
Lajkovac
Klokočevac
Aranđelovac Krespoljin
Dr Valjevo Svilajnac Negotin
in Topola
G re
a
M
at
M
Ku n t a
ou
o
Kragujevac ok
Bor
ča ins
m Vidin
ra
Ti
va
Borač
Jagodina Zaječar
Užice
Čačak
Požega G
Mo led Paraćin Boljevac Dimovo
Mokra Gora un ić
ta Rtanj
Kraljevo in
Tornik
We
st
s 1,565 m
Sokobanja
BULGARIA
1,496 m M o r a va
Novo Selo
I ba
Ivanjica Knjaževac
Kruševac
r
Priboj Aleksinac
R h Vinishte
M
ou odo
Svrljig
Prijepolje
S
p l a t a ra nt pe
Uv
ac Raška nin ai
a
Pančićev vrh
2,016 m Prokuplje Niš ns
Kopaonik
So
Pirot
Kuršumlija
uth
Novi Pazar
Mo
Bijelo Polje
ra v
Leskovac
Dimitrovgrad
a
Mojkovac Podujevo
Grdelica
NEGRO Mitrovica
Tran
Vladičin
K O S OVO Han
Priština Pernik
Vranje
Vukël
Maja e Jezercës Bujanovac Zelenčev vrh Izvor
2,693 m 1,574 m
Kyustendil
Kačanik Kriva Palanka
Lake Prizren
Scutari
Shkodër Kumanovo
Kukës Tetovo
Pukë
Skopje
Delčevo
Kočani
ALBANIA MACEDONIA
Lezhë Gostivar
Štip
Milot
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INTRODUCING SERBIA 17
A PORTRAIT OF SERBIA
Serbia’s stunning scenery and temperate climate make it an ideal year-round
tourist destination whose tremendous potential is only just beginning to be
fully realized. The capital, Belgrade, is a bustling urban centre with a thriving
cultural scene and some of the best nightlife in the Balkans, and the country’s
wealth of broad rivers, rugged mountains and picturesque rural landscapes
combined with its rich heritage of sublime monasteries, mighty fortresses and
Roman remains make it a rewarding destination where visitors can expect a
warm welcome from a people known for their hospitality and open-heartedness.
From prehistoric cave dwellings, Mesolithic fields stretch for miles in all directions, are
settlements and entire Roman cities that known as Serbia’s bread basket. Here, and
lie just beneath the surface to dramatic across the rest of the country, harvest and
hilltop fortresses, Serbia’s archaeological folk festivals that have been enjoyed for
heritage is remarkably diverse and has centuries continue to be celebrated with
filled its award-winning museums with vigour. Subotica’s wheat harvest festival is
artifacts dating back thousands of years. famed for its colourful folk traditions, the
The mountain ranges covering two- nation’s wine-producing regions are noted
thirds of Serbia’s territory dominate the for their week-long festivities and several
south and provide spectacular backdrops towns host lively annual folklore events.
to towns and villages where shepherds The music festivals of Serbia are equally
still graze their flocks and farmers rear pigs important, attracting visitors from across
in lush foothills and valleys. The country’s the world. Hundreds of thousands of
picturesque rural heartlands produce people swamp the tiny village of Guča
plums to make šljivovica – the national in Western Serbia during its legendary
drink – together with an abundance of trumpet festival, while Novi Sad’s award-
fruit, dairy and meat products for which winning EXIT music festival and the Niš
Serbia is renowned. The great northern and Belgrade jazz festivals showcase
plains of Vojvodina, where corn and wheat performers from all over the globe.
Zasavica Special Nature Reserve near Fruška Gora, one of Serbia’s best preserved wetlands and a major wildlife refuge
Naïve art depicting a harvest scene, painted by the well-known Slovak artist Zuzana Chalupova from Kovačica
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18 INTRODUCING SERBIA
in 1948. During the 1960s and 70s the foreign investment have rejuvenated
country became one of the more Western- some of its industrial sectors. A major fruit
leaning of the Balkan nations, with the exporter, Serbia is the world’s second-
latest rock, pop and jazz music freely largest producer of plums and raspberries,
available and European fashions in vogue. although its most successful export by
far is tennis champion Novak Ðoković.
Government and Economy
From pariah state under the single-party Tourism and Outdoor Activities
rule of Socialist Slobodan Milošević in the Alongside its wealth of sights, Serbia offers
1990s to parliamentary democracy and a wide range of activity holidays. The
aspiring EU member, Serbia has come far country’s picturesque mountain regions
in recent years. Crippling economic sanc- entice a stream of outdoor enthusiasts
tions combined with the damage caused who come for hiking, biking, canyoning
by NATO air strikes in 1999 left Serbia’s and paragliding. The meandering rivers
economy just half the size it had been in are perfect for kayaking and rafting, and
1990. Milošević was forced to resign in pony trekking and off-roading are also
October 2000 after massive, widespread catching on. The national parks harbour an
protests against election fraud. His succes- abundance of flora and fauna; several pairs
sor, a prominent opposition leader named of endangered eastern imperial eagles are
Zoran Đinđić, was assassinated in 2003; among the species that attract keen bird-
this was followed by several years of poli- watchers from all over the world.
tical instability. It was only after the arrests Those in search of less demanding
of Bosnian Serb war criminals Radovan adventures can opt for a heritage steam
Karadžić in 2008 and Ratko Mladić in 2011 train ride high into the mountains at
that significant progress was made towards Mokra Gora or visit the wine-producing
EU accession talks. In 2012 Serbia received regions of Negotin, Vršac or Fruška Gora
full EU candidate status; the next year it for a vineyard tour. For complete relaxa-
took steps towards normalizing relations tion, a trip to the natural hot springs at
with Kosovo to facilitate the start of its EU one of the many spa resorts is a must.
entry talks. In 2014 the EU agreed to open Serbia’s tourism infrastructure has seen
negotiations on Serbia’s accession. The significant investment in recent years, so
Kosovo issue is still unresolved, and although whatever you choose to do, staff at the
talks began in late 2015 it seems unlikely country’s outstanding network of visitor
that Serbia will enter the EU before 2020. information centres will be able to assist.
The country currently suffers from a high The locals are usually keen to help too,
unemployment rate of around 19 per cent, and the warmth of their hospitality will
but International Monetary Fund loans are remain in visitors’ memories as long as
likely to continue funding infrastructure images of the country’s magnificent
projects, and trade liberalization and direct monuments and splendid landscapes.
The gooseneck meanders of the West Morava River (meandri Morave), Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, Western Serbia
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20 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Bird-watching in Serbia
Deliblato Sands (Deliblatska Peščara) in the Vojvodina
region is particularly popular with birdwatchers due to
its abundance of bird species and its proximity to Novi
Sad and Belgrade. Once part of a prehistoric desert, it
is now a sandy region with 330 sq km (127 sq miles) of
grasslands, agricultural land and mixed forests fringed
by the Danube, Karaš and Tamiš Rivers. Resident birds
include saker falcons, lesser spotted eagles, black kites,
eastern imperial eagles and sand martins. The area is
also known for its large population of grey wolves. A male ortolan bunting (Emberiza hortulana)
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22 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Illuminated Manuscripts
Monasteries encouraged the creation of illuminated
manuscripts in an effort to preserve Serbian culture
and religion. Miroslav’s Gospel (c. 1185) is consid Holy Mother of God, an early 12th-century fresco of
ered one of the most important Serbian works. the Constantinople School, Studenica Monastery
Religion in Serbia
The Serbs began to convert to Christianity in great numbers
in the 7th century. Rome and Constantinople tussled for pri
macy until the Eastern Orthodox Church broke with Rome in
1064. In the early 13th century, the Serbian church became
an autocephalous body within the Eastern Orthodox Church.
Around 85 per cent of the population are Serbian Orthodox
Christians today. Six per cent are Roman Catholics from ethnic
groups such as the Croats, Hungarians, Bunjevci and Roma
who live in northern Vojvodina; this religiously and ethnically
diverse area also includes German Protestants, Hungarian
Calvinists, Slovak Lutherans and GreekCatholic Ukrainians.
During Ottoman rule, many Serbs converted to Islam and
today make up 5 per cent of the population, living mostly in
the southwest, especially around Novi Pazar. The country’s
once thriving Jewish community was decimated during
World War II, and there are only about 800 Jews left in Serbia. The Altun-alem Mosque in Novi Pazar
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24 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Serbian Art
Renowned for their medieval church frescoes,
Serbia’s monasteries are its oldest art galleries. The
country’s artistic output continued to be almost
exclusively religious until the late 18th century when
Western influences had an impact on creative trends.
Galleries across Serbia have fascinating exhibitions
of 19th- and 20th-century pieces by local artists, and
Belgrade’s Museum of Contemporary Art in Zemun Depiction of Christ Pantocrator in a
holds a superb collection of modern works. 13th-century fresco at Žiča Monastery
Medieval Art
Serbia’s church art dates back to the medieval state’s formal adoption A pair of angels
of Christianity in the 9th century, and some of the earliest examples can gaze down upon
be seen at Novi Pazar’s Sts Peter and Paul Church. Although Serbian art the Crucifixion
from Heaven.
preserved its Orthodox character and Byzantine iconographic compo
sitions for centuries, artists started to experiment with more expressive
Isaiah, one of
styles that led to the monumental paintings at Sopoćani Monastery. the four major
At Studenica a Westerninfluenced move towards Classicism enhanced prophets, is also
the emotional character of compositions, but these developments were shown in Heaven.
cut short by the fall of the Serbian Empire in the 15th century.
Baroque Art
The Great Migration of the Serbs to Vojvodina in 1690 was a
crucial turning point for Serbian art as it brought exposure to
Western trends. The 18th-century artists Teodor Kračun and
Stefan Tenecki transformed traditional Orthodox icons into
Baroque portraits; this became one of the key elements of a
distinctive new Serbian culture. Kračun’s iconostasis at Sremski
Karlovci’s Orthodox cathedral and Tenecki’s landscapes at
Krušedol are among Serbia’s finest Baroque masterpieces.
19th-Century Art
Landscapes and portraiture detailing social
change, such as Arsa Teodorović’s work,
and Ðura Jakšić’s Romantic art were popu-
lar until the late 19th century, when artists
such as Đorđe Krstić adopted Realism. Their
monumental paintings showed idealized
versions of Serbian history, supporting the
emergence of a national ideology.
Modernism
Early 20th-century Serbian art was heavily influenced by
Munich and Paris trends. Impressionist Milan Milovanović’s
work tended to be more subdued than that of French artists,
while Nadežda Petrović developed a distinctive Expressionist
style after discovering Van Gogh and Munch’s art. Avant-
Garde’s local version, Yugo-Dada, was founded by Dragan
Aleksić, while Surrealism also had its Serbian adherents.
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26 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Architecture
The country’s development of elegant church
architecture was abruptly curtailed by centuries
of Ottoman rule that favoured the proliferation of
mosques and Turkish culture. Until the mid-
19th century the urban skylines of Serbia were
dominated by minarets, but the demise of the
Ottoman Empire precipitated a nationalistic
rush to Westernization through the construc-
tion of the fine Neo-Renaissance buildings that
define most Serbian towns and cities today. The Church of the Virgin Mary, Studenica Monastery
Ravanica Monastery
With a trefoil plan, intricate stonework and
decorative elements, the monastery is said to
have been the birthplace of the Morava School.
Ottoman Architecture
Much of Serbia’s Ottoman heritage was
destroyed after the departure of the
Turks in the mid-19th century, but some
fine examples have survived. Among
these are the 16th-century Bajrakli
Mosque in Belgrade and the early
18th-century Ottoman fortress in Niš.
Belgrade’s Palace of Princess Ljubica
exemplifies the crossover between
Ottoman and Western design styles,
while Novi Pazar has retained a
distinctly Oriental atmosphere and Niš Fortress, Istanbul Gate
boasts some of the best-preserved Built in 1723, the massive fort contains the Ottoman
Ottoman architecture in the country. arsenal, a Turkish hammam and the Bali-beg Mosque.
Neo-Renaissance Architecture
In order to create the fine city centres
necessary to signal its transformation
from an Ottoman vassal into a contem-
porary Westernized country, Serbia drew
upon all the trends of 19th-century
European architecture. The combination
of Classicist, Romanesque, Gothic,
Baroque and Renaissance influences
resulted in the broad Neo-Renaissance
style that would later be supplanted by
Eclecticism. Splendid examples include
National Theatre, Belgrade Belgrade’s National Theatre, Novi Sad’s
Designed in 1869 by prolific Serbian architect Alexander 1895 City Hall by Geörgy Molnàr and
Bugarski, this was modelled on Milan’s La Scala. The original Sremski Karlovci’s 1892 Patriarch’s Palace
façade was destroyed in World War I and replaced in 1922. by Vladimir Nikolić.
A PORTRAIT OF SERBIA 27
Subotica’s City Hall, designed by Hungarian architects Marcell Komor and Dezső Jakab and built in 1910
Modern Architecture
Tito’s early split with Stalin meant that very few Social Realist Street Names
public buildings were built in the country. Belgrade’s Museum of It is common for streets in
Contemporary Art, built by Ivan Antić and Ivanka Raspopović in Serbia to be known by mul
1965, is a Modernist take on the Socialist style; Genex Tower, built tiple names, yet only the
by Mihajlo Mitrović in 1980, is the city’s most striking example of latest version will be listed
Brutalism. The Belgrade city skyline has been transformed in on maps. Squares and roads
recent years by major new landmarks such as Ada Bridge, were often renamed to reflect
designed by Viktor Markelj and Peter Gabrijelčič in 2012. political circumstances, par
ticularly during the turbulent
20th century with the victory
of Communism after World
War II and its collapse in the
1990s. Kralja Petra, one of the
oldest streets in Belgrade, was
originally called Dubrovnik; in
1904 it was renamed Kralja
Petra to honour the newly
installed King Peter I; in 1946
its name was changed to 7th
July by the Communist Party
to mark the 1941 partisan
uprising against the Nazis;
in 1997 it reverted to Kralja
Petra. Another Belgrade street
started off as Dva Bela Goluba
in 1872 and was changed to
Svetogorska in 1896, Bitoljska in
1922, Georges Clemenceau in
1930, Svetogorska again in
1943, Lola Ribar in 1946, and
Ada Bridge, Belgrade Svetogorska yet again from
Also called Sava Bridge, this impressive singlepylon, cablestayed 1997 onwards.
bridge cuts across Ada Ciganlija and took three years to complete.
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28 INTRODUCING SERBIA
May
Cubanero (late May), Novi Sad.
Serbia’s largest salsa dance
festival involves performances,
parties and workshops. Costumed crew on a decorated boat taking part in the Belgrade Boat Carnival
SERBIA THROUGH THE YEAR 29
Climate Average
Most of the country has a BELGRADE NOVI SAD maximum
temperate climate, but the 29/84 temperature
28/82
southwest borders on sub °C/°F °C/°F
tropical and continental. 18/64 17/63
16/61 16/61 16/61 Average
There are good levels of minimum
yearround sunshine. Low 14/57
13/55
8/46
temperature
lying areas can be stiflingly 2/36 6/43 7/45 6/43
0/32 -1/30
hot in summer, and autumn Average daily
is warmer than spring. The 6 9 6 2 6 9 6 2
hours of
continental rainfall pattern hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
sunshine
means higher volumes in 43/2 31/1 45/2 27/1 55/2 43/2 50/2 35/1
the warmer months, except mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in Average
for the southwest, which month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan monthly
sees most rain in autumn. rainfall
NIŠ KRAGUJEVAC
28/82 29/84
Novi Sad
°C/°F °C/°F 19/66
16/61 17/63 16/61 18/64
Belgrade 15/59
8/46 7/45
Kragujevac 6/43 4/39 6/43 5/41
-1/30 -3/27
5 9 5 2 5 9 5 2
Niš
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
55/2 33/1 43/2 36/1 53/2 43/2 47/2 28/1
mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in mm/in
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
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30 INTRODUCING SERBIA
Serbians picking grapes as part of the harvest celebrations in one of Serbia’s wine-producing regions
SERBIA THROUGH THE YEAR 31
New Year fireworks over Kalemegdan Fortress reflected in the waters of the Sava River, Belgrade
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INTRODUCING SERBIA 33
THE HISTORY OF
SERBIA
Serbia’s contemporary culture is deeply rooted in its medieval history, when a
strong national consciousness was forged through the adoption of Orthodox
Christianity and the establishment of the first Serbian kingdom. Medieval
Serbia had conquered most of southeastern Europe before succumbing to the
Ottomans in the 15th century; subsequent centuries saw it become the battle
ground for wars between the Habsburg and Ottoman Empires, both of which
left their mark on the country before it was liberated in the 19th century. The
Yugoslav Wars of the late 20th century were a dark time for Serbia, but it has
since reestablished itself and looks set to join the EU in the future.
The earliest evidence of human civilization Stefan Nemanja (r. 1166–96), the first in a
in Serbia dates back as far as 9,000 BC when long line of powerful Nemanjić rulers, took
Mesolithic tribes settled beside the Danube advantage of a Byzantine Empire weakened
at Lepenski Vir. Thracians, Illyrians and by war with the Hungarians and extended
Dacians arrived around 1,000 BC, and in the Serbia’s territory south into Montenegro
2nd century BC the Romans began their and Kosovo. His youngest son, Sava (1174–
subjugation of the region. In the 6th and 1236), became a monk. It was through the
7th centuries, Slavic tribes from east of the skilful diplomacy of Sava that Serbia was
Carpathian Mountains and hordes of ram recognized as a kingdom and his brother
paging Huns and Avars swarmed across the Stefan II (r. 1196–1228) crowned its first king
Danube, overrunning much of the Balkan in 1217. In 1219 Sava became the first arch
Peninsula. The Croatian Slavs headed west bishop of a newly independent Serbian
while the Slavic tribes that would later be Orthodox Church, achieving political and
known as Serbs made their way south and religious autonomy for the country.
occupied parts of what are now Serbia, King Stefan II was succeeded by several
Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. generations of capable rulers. His great
Orthodox missionaries from Byzantine greatgrandson, Stefan Dušan the Mighty
Constantinople gradually converted the (r. 1331–55), conquered Bulgaria, Macedonia
pagan Serbian tribes to Christianity. This and northern Greece, became emperor of
paved the way for the emergence of a the Serbs and Greeks in 1346 and had even
common culture, but feuding continued set his sights on Constantinople, but his
until the 12th century when a sense of untimely death in 1355 left Serbia suddenly
Serbian national identity finally began to bereft of a great leader and vulnerable in
take shape during the Nemanjić dynasty. the face of the expanding Ottoman Empire.
Ottoman Rule
After the death of Stefan Dušan, quarrels
between local lords undermined the
nation’s unity and in 1371, following its
defeat at the Battle of Maritsa, Serbia lost
Macedonia and parts of Greece to the Turks.
The severely weakened Serbs fell back as
the Ottomans pushed north. Prince Lazar
(r. 1362–89) attacked them in 1389 at the
Battle of Kosovo where both he and the
Ottoman Sultan Murad I (r. 1362–89) were
killed. Despite heavy losses on both sides, An 1838 portrait of Prince Miloš Obrenović by Emile Desmaisons
it was Serbia that suffered most as the
Ottoman Empire had far greater resources led by Đorđe Petrović (1762–1817), better
and was able to continue its relentless known as Karađorđe (see p75). The rebels
expansion into the Balkans. The Serbs held killed the Ottoman governors, landowners
out for a few more decades, but finally lost and janissaries, and, with the help of the
their empire when the Ottomans took Russians, defeated the Ottoman army sent
Smederevo Fortress in 1459. to quell their rebellion. Much of the country
Thousands of Serbs fled northwards to was liberated and concerted efforts were
Vojvodina and beyond, many were carried made to revive the medieval Serbian
off as slaves and those who remained in Empire, but disaster struck in 1812 when
Serbia became secondclass citizens or Russia made peace with the Ottomans. In
converted to Islam to make life easier. 1813 a vast Ottoman army destroyed the
Christianity was tolerated by the Turks and rebels and set up a new government in
it was through the Orthodox religion that Belgrade’s Kalemegdan Fortress; Karađorđe
the national spirit was preserved, but many escaped across the Danube to Austria.
of the great monasteries were plundered The Second Serbian Uprising in 1815
and Serbian towns Islamized with mosques was led by Miloš Obrenović (1780–1860),
that dwarfed and outnumbered churches. whose military successes against the Turks
persuaded them to grant Serbia autonomy
Serbian Uprisings under Ottoman suzerainty. Prince Miloš
After several hundred years under Turkish organized the new Serbian state, distrib
rule, Serbs had become dissatisfied with uted land to peasants and implemented
the increasingly corrupt behaviour of the an education system to bridge the cultural
Ottoman janissaries (soldiers). Hajduci gap left by Ottoman rule. By 1833 he had
(Serbian rebels) began smallscale rebel negotiated complete autonomy for Serbia,
lions that laid the ground for the First and in 1878 Serbia’s independence was
Serbian Uprising of 1804, recognized at the Congress of Berlin.
1371 Serbia loses Macedonia 1456 The Byzantine Empire collapses. The Ottoman Sultan
and parts of Greece to the Siege of Belgrade, one of the greatest Mehmed II (1432–81),
Ottomans after being defeated medieval crusades, takes place as Sultan known as Mehmed
at the Battle of Maritsa Mehmed II besieges the city with 150,000 the Conqueror
soldiers and over 100 ships
THE HISTORY OF SERBIA 35
First Balkan War (1912–13) 1912–13 The First 1929 King Alexander
and Second Balkan abolishes parliament
1804 The First Serbian Uprising against Wars take place, and renames the
the Ottoman Empire is led by Đorđe throwing the nation the Kingdom
Petrović, better known as Karađorđe region into turmoil of Yugoslavia
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36 INTRODUCING SERBIA
The young
King Peter II 1948 Tito severs relations 1981 Kosovan Albanians ask for the
Karađorđević of with Stalin to follow his recognition of the State of Kosovo;
Yugoslavia, 1940 own brand of socialism riots erupt among the community
1941 Prince Paul, 1945 Tito’s partisans 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies in Ljubljana
the regent of liberate Yugoslavia with at the age of 88; ethnic tensions rise
Yugoslavia, joins the help of the Red across the country following his death
the Axis powers Army; free elections held
at the end of 1945 bring Sculpture of Josip Broz
Tito to power Tito (1892–1980)
THE HISTORY OF SERBIA 37
1992 Croatia is recognized by 1999 NATO 2006 Serbia joins 2016–20 The World Bank plans to lend
the international community; launches air NATO’s Partnership Serbia $2.2 billion to strengthen its
Montenegro and Serbia form strikes against for Peace economy and support its EU accession
the Federal Republic of Serbia
Yugoslavia; the Bosnian War 2015 Serbia starts the process of EU
begins, lasting until 1995 accession talks at the end of the year
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SERBIA
AREA BY AREA
Belgrade 42–63
Central Serbia 64–75
Western Serbia 76–87
Northern Serbia 88–99
Eastern Serbia 100–111
Southern Serbia 112–121
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40 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Serbia at a Glance
Lying at the geographical and political Subotica
crossroads of Europe, Serbia stretches from
the Dinaric Alps in the west to the Carpathians Senta
Da
in the east. Between them flows the mighty
n ub e ( D u
Sombor Bačka Topola Kikinda
Danube, dividing this small country in two.
Beyond the obvious allure of Belgrade, historic
na v
ruins, sublime medieval monasteries and great NORTHERN Novi Bečej
)
expanses of untouched nature are among the SERBIA
Tis
(see pp88–99)
many attractions of this fascinating country. Its
a
mountains and rivers offer plenty of scope for Bač
Zrenjanin
active adventures, from skiing, hiking and biking Novi Sad
Bačka
to paragliding, kayaking and canyoning, while in Palanka Sremski
Fruška Karlovci
summer Serbians compensate for the country’s Gora Kovačica
Obrenovac
Loznica BELGRADE
(see pp42–63)
Aranđelovac
Valjevo
WESTERN
SERBIA
(see pp76–87)
Borač
Drin a
Užice
a va Čačak
Mokra Gora or
We s t M
Kalemegdan Fortress (see pp52–3) in Belgrade Zlatibor
contained the entire population of the capital for
Iba
beyond the fortress walls during the 19th century. Nova Varoš
ac
Prijepolje
Studenica Monastery
(see p81) contains fres
coes that date back to Novi Pazar
the 13th century and
are thought to be among
the finest in Serbia. Along with
Sopoćani Monastery and the
Stari Ras complex, Felix
Romuliana and the Kosovo
monasteries, Studenica is
one of the four UNESCO
World Heritage Sites in
Serbia and its autonomous
province of Kosovo.
0 kilometres 40
0 miles 40
Belgrade’s colourful Sava riverfront, with the Cathedral Church of St Michael dominating the skyline
S E R B I A AT A G L A N C E 41
Bela Crkva
v)
u na
ub e (D
D an Smederevo
Kladovo
Požarevac
Kučevo
Da
Smederevska
nu
Palanka
EASTERN
be
SERBIA
(D
SERBIA v)
a
Kragujevac
Bor
at
Mo r a v a
Jagodina Zaječar
imo k
Niš
Kopaonik
N išava
Prokuplje
SOUTHERN
SERBIA Pirot
Kuršumlija (see pp112–121)
Leskovac
va
ora
Surdulica
Priština
M
h
ut
Vranje
So
KOSOVO
Bujanovac
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SERBIA AREA BY AREA 43
BELGRADE
From high above the confluence of the Danube and Sava
Rivers, Belgrade’s breathtaking river views are among the
most spectacular of any city in Europe, yet it has only lately
begun to emerge as a popular tourist destination. This
sprawling city tends to underwhelm at first, yet rapidly
draws visitors in. Its captivating vibrancy is evident from
early in the day, when cafés fill with locals enjoying leisurely
coffees, until well past midnight in lively bars and clubs where
the nightlife rivals that of any modern Western capital city.
Sunset over the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers, viewed from the bastions of Kalemegdan Fortress
The cupolas and domes of Belgrade’s beautiful 19th-century Cathedral Church of St Michael
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44 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Exploring Belgrade
Kalemegdan Fortress is a good starting point for any tour of
Belgrade. Both the Sava and Danube Rivers are accessible
B U L E VAR
via steep pathways from its ramparts and many of the
KA L EM EG D A N
city’s main sights are within easy reach. At the heart of PA R K
the Old Town (Stari grad) is bustling pedestrianized Knez
VOJ
Mihailova, with cafés, shops and street entertainers, while
nearby Skadarlija offers traditional cuisine in atmospheric
VO
19th-century kafanas. Central Belgrade’s easternmost
DE
attraction is the Temple of St Sava; Topčider Park and the
BO
JO
House of Flowers are in the southern suburbs. It is possible S TA R I
V
GRAD
IĆ
to visit the Museum of Contemporary Art by walking across
A
Brankov Bridge (Brankov most) into New Belgrade. The city’s
famous boat bars are moored a short distance from the bridge.
Sa
A
SK
RI
va
A
KA R A ĐO
TR
PA
CA
PE
RA
G
KOS
A
RA
LJ
LA
ČA
RA
A N ČIĆ EV VE
N
ZA
ČU IČ
K
KA
RA
BR
RĐE
IN
Getting Around A
VA
Belgrade’s Old Town is small enough
NA
POP LUKINA
MA
C
RŠA
to be explored on foot, and modern LA
NO VI Ć
JUG
tram, trolleybus or taxi. Hiring a bicycle
K RS M ARA ĆE
or joining a bike tour is a wonderful way KRALJEV I Ć
A
B
MARK A
to explore the city, especially along the
KA
purpose-built cycle tracks beside the Belgrade Central
RA
Bus Station
Danube and Sava Rivers that go as far as
Đ
O
RĐ
Zemun and Ada Ciganlija. Driving in the Stari
savski
Ž E L E ZNIČK A
EV
city can be stressful due to heavy traffic, Toma Rosandić’s Play of the Black most
A
road conditions and limited parking. Horses (1939), National Assembly
Belgrade Central
Railway Station
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Historic Cathedrals, Churches
Buildings and Mosques
1 Ethnographic 2 Cathedral Church
Museum of St Michael
3 Palace of Princess 6 Bajrakli Mosque
Ljubica 8 Church of
4 Fresco Gallery St Alexander Nevsky
5 Kalemegdan Fortress r Church of St Mark
pp52–3 u Temple of St Sava
7 Jewish Historical
Museum Parks, Squares and
q National Museum Streets
w Automobile Museum 9 Skadarlija
y Nikola Tesla Museum 0 Republic Square
i National Library of e King Alexander
Serbia Boulevard
p Museum of t Prince Miloš Street
Contemporary Art o Zemun
a House of Flowers s Topčider Park
d Royal Palaces f Ada Ciganlija
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp126–7 and pp134–5
BELGRADE 45
DUNA
VSKA
Greater Belgrade
REJSKA
KA
KA
KOŠĆUŠ
SOLUN Kotež
SKA
13
JE V
VA Č
VIS Zemun
OK BRO
A
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nub
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NA 12 km (7 miles) Du
TA D E U Š A
IN
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RA AN Island )
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10
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RA
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KN
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Belgrade
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NA
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The House of Mika Alas in the PROTIĆA
Key A
K
Suggested route IS
R
A
P
. Embassy of France
Designed by French architect Roger-Henri Expert in
1928, this is regarded as one of the city’s finest Art
Deco structures. Sitting atop the edifice is French
sculptor Carlo Sarrabezolles’s bronze statue of three
women symbolizing liberté, égalité, fraternité.
K
N
E
Z
ĆE V VENAC
A
2 . Cathedral Church of St Michael S
IM
Built by Prince Miloš in 1841 on the site of É
an 18th-century church, the Classical-style
cathedral boasts an impressive iconostasis.
Opposite, the Museum of the Serbian
Orthodox Church was founded
NČI
A
during World War II to preserve R
T
artifacts collected from Serbia’s E
P
SA
L
A
K
R
K
Sav
a
Z ADA
RS
K
A
. Kralja Petra
Kralja Petra, one of Belgrade’s oldest
streets, was also one of the most
important in the 19th century. Until Belgrade Central Railway
Knez Mihailova was laid out in the and Bus Stations
1860s, Kralja Petra was a busy shop-
ping area. Pause at nos. 39 and 41 to
0 metres 50
admire this pair of fine Art Nouveau
buildings dating from 1907. 0 yards 50
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp126–7 and pp134–5
BELGRADE 47
Kalemegdan
Fortress
Studentski trg
K
N
E
Z
M
IH
A
IL
A
O
K
V
IS
A
R
A
P
A
R
T
E
P
A
J
L
A Kralja Petra School
R
K Located on the site of an old Serbian school
founded in 1718, Kralja Petra is Belgrade’s
oldest school. The current building dates
to 1906 and was designed by Serbia’s first
woman architect, Jelisaveta Načić.
A
V
O
G
M
E
B
A
R
. Kafana
K
N
O
Question Mark
A
V
IV
KA
RS
Z A DA
Palace of
Princess Ljubica
. Zadarska
This narrow cobbled
residential street has
plenty of historic charac-
ter and is often used as a
backdrop for period films.
www.ebook3000.com
48 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
1 Ethnographic
Museum
Etnografski muzej
City Map C2. Studentski trg 13.
Tel (011) 3281888. @ No. 28, 29,
31, 41. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
9am–2pm Sun. & 7 =
∑ etnografskimuzej.rs
3 Palace of Princess
Ljubica
Konak kneginje Ljubice
City Map B2. Kneza Sime Markovića 8.
Tel (011) 2638264. @ Open 10am–
5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am–6pm Thu,
noon–8pm Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. &
= ∑ mgb.org.rs
The Oriental façade and minaret-like chimneys of the Palace of Princess Ljubica
www.ebook3000.com
50 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Republic Square and the equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo, with the National Theatre in the background
www.ebook3000.com
52 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
5 Kalemegdan Fortress
Kalemegdanska tvrđava
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp126–7 and pp134–5
BELGRADE 53
. Zindan Gate
This massive 15thcentury
fortified gate was used as
a zindan (prison) by the
Ottomans. Its two barrel
like towers offer good
views of the Danube.
www.ebook3000.com
54 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
e King Alexander
Boulevard
Bulevar kralja Aleksandra
City Map D3. @ v
government offices that had ashes be brought to Belgrade 2004; work on the interior is still
sprung up along it. After World after his death; this memorial underway. The adjacent church
War II, Tito continued the trend museum was established in was built in honour of St Sava
by adding important buildings 1952 to house them. in 1895 to mark the 300th anni-
and using the street for state Hugely popular, the museum versary of the day the Ottoman
processions; the last would be receives more visitors than any military commander Sinan Paša
for his own funeral in 1980. other in Serbia. Set in a grand exhumed Sava’s remains and
The government buildings mansion built in 1929, it exhibits burnt them on a pyre on top
of Belgrade were targeted by Tesla’s diaries, writings, project of Vračar Hill. Furious at the
NATO during the three-month drafts, personal effects and a success of a Serbian uprising in
bombing of Serbia in 1999. The gold-plated spherical silver urn Vršac in 1594 where rebels had
Ministry of Internal Affairs and holding his ashes, as well as marched under St Sava’s banner,
the Ministry of Defence on models of his various inventions. Sinan Paša intended this grue-
Kneza Miloša were among The hourly lectures in English some display to rob the saint of
those hit by cruise missiles, and are a must for visitors as they his mythical powers.
today they remain derelict as a provide a fascinating insight
stark reminder of the impact of into the workings of many of
NATO’s controversial decision. Tesla’s inventions. i National Library
of Serbia
Narodna biblioteka Srbije
u Temple of St Sava City Map D5. Skerliceva 1. Tel (011)
Hram svetog Save 2451242. @ Open 1pm–2pm Tue &
City Map D5. Karađorđev Park. Tel Fri with guide (advance reservation
(011) 3445177. @ Open 7am–8pm. required). 8 ∑ nb.rs
7 = ∑ hramsvetogsave.com
Serbia’s National Library, along
Set in an elevated position on with its collection of over half
Vračar Hill, visible from all over a million books, was destroyed
Belgrade, the cathedral is dedi- by Nazi air raids during World
cated to Sava (1174–1236), the War II. It was reopened in 1947
Serbian prince and saint who with manuscripts gathered
was the founder of Serbia’s from all over Yugoslavia; the old
Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Museum, housed Orthodox Church. Clad in building was replaced in 1973
in an early 20th-century mansion gleaming white marble with by the current Modernist edifice
a 70-m (230-ft) high central that stands next to the Temple
y Nikola Tesla cupola, it is one of the world’s of St Sava. Designed by Ivo
Museum largest Orthodox churches, with Kurtović (1910–72), a prominent
Muzej Nikole Tesle space for 10,000 worshippers. post-war architect, the concrete
The temple’s foundations structure is representative of
City Map E4. Krunska 51. Tel (011) were laid in 1939, but the peak of the Belgrade School
2433886. @ No. 26, 27. v No. 7, 12. building work was of modern architecture with
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
suspended during the its emphasis on a cen-
Closed Public holidays. & 8
Communist era and tral inner core that
= ∑ tesla-museum.org
the exterior wasn’t expands outwards
Venerated as a Serbian national completed until in all directions.
hero, Nikola Tesla (1856–1943)
appears on the 100-dinar bank
note and has had the city’s
international airport named in
his honour. One of the geniuses
of the modern age, he is best
known for his pioneering work
on x-rays, radio transmission,
induction motors, wireless com-
munications and alternating
current electricity supply – the
latter is now used around the
world. He registered over 700
patents during his lifetime, and
in 1960 the international unit
for measuring magnetic fields
was named after him. Despite
spending most of his adult life
in the US, Tesla asked that his The Temple of St Sava with its huge 12-m (39-ft) tall golden cross topping the dome
Basement of the Royal Palace in Dedinje, richly decorated in the style of the Terem Palace in Moscow’s Kremlin
www.ebook3000.com
www.ebook3000.com
58 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
a House of Flowers
Kuća cveća
Botićeva 6. Tel (011) 3671296. @
No. 41. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
www.ebook3000.com
60 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Dan Key
ube
(Du
nav
D U N AV ) Major sight
S KA
Other sight
CA
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DU
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N
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Railway station
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KA
27
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A
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MIL
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0 metres 800
0 yards 800
0 yards 500
Panoramic view of Belgrade at night from the floodlit grounds of Kalemegdan Fortress
BELGRADE STREET FINDER 61
www.ebook3000.com
Belgrade
Belgrade Chapel of St of
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VUK ICE MIT
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SERBIA AREA BY AREA 65
CENTRAL SERBIA
Serbia’s historic heartland is home to several of the country’s
former capitals and many of its finest medieval monasteries.
Known as Šumadija, the region takes its name from the forest,
or šuma, that once covered the area so densely that locals
had to climb trees to get their bearings. Today it is still thickly
forested in places, but most of the impenetrable foliage has
long since been replaced by bucolic villages and a patchwork
of cereal crop fields and plum and pear orchards.
Central Serbia’s broad plains along the move the capital to Belgrade in 1403, but
banks of the Great Morava River rise grad his successor Đurađ Branković ceded the
ually towards the mountains in the east, city to the Hungarians in 1427 and shifted
west and south of Šumadija. When Prince the capital to Smederevo on the Danube.
Lazar established his powerful empire here There he built one of Europe’s mightiest
in the 14th century, he chose Kruševac as fortresses, now a popular visitor attraction.
his capital and ushered in an era of cultural When Smederevo finally fell to the
enlightenment. Hidden in secluded valleys Ottomans in 1459, the medieval state of
and woods, the beautifully frescoed mon Serbia was crushed. It wasn’t until 1804
astery churches of Ljubostinja, Ravanica, that Karađorđe inspired the local Serbs to
Manasija and Kalenić, along with Lazarica launch the First Serbian Uprising and drive
Church in Kruševac, were born of this out the Turks. His tomb and the stunning
Serbian renaissance. Their distinctive style interior of Topola’s Karađorđe Mausoleum
became known as the Morava School of Church of St George have since become
church architecture and today they attract one of the area’s key sights. Prince Miloš,
tourists from all around the world. who led the Second Serbian Uprising in
After Lazar’s death at the decisive Battle 1815, established Kragujevac as his capital,
of Kosovo in 1389, the Turks pressed in from endowing it with splendid 19thcentury
the south. Lazar’s son Stefan was forced to buildings that are well worth a visit.
The imposing ramparts of the medieval Smederevo Fortress, offering superb views of the Danube
Delicate stonework around the main doorway of Kalenić Monastery
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66 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Lazarevac PODUNAVLJE
Belgrade
ARANĐELOVAC Smederevska
Palanka Velika
Risovača Cave
Plana
Natalinci
TOPOLA
Rača
ŠUMADIJA Lapovo
c
ni
Srebre
The Borački krš bluff rising from the rural landscape around Borač
Kamenica Milatovac
Bare
Getting Around
KRAGUJEVAC
The Belgrade–Niš motorway provides a smooth
route between Smederevo and Kruševac. There BORAČ Gornja
Knić
is also a railway line, but buses are a better option Sabanta
as Serbian trains are not renowned for their speed.
Moun
Kotletai ns
Ljubostinja
Monastery
Trstenik
Aleksandrovac
a a
lik nic
V eb o v Brus
a
Gr
Brzeće
Ko
pa
oni
k
Pančićev vrh
2,016 m
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p127 and pp135–6
CENTRAL SERBIA 67
Sights at a Glance
1 Smederevo
2 Manasija Monastery pp70–71
3 Resavska Cave
4 Ravanica Monastery
5 Kruševac
6 Kragujevac
7 Borač
8 Topola
9 Aranđelovac
G r e at
Morava
0 kilometres 15
0 miles 15
Kušiljevo
Svilajnac
Re
sa MANASIJA
va MONASTERY
Despotovac
RESAVSKA
Glogovac
CAVE Detail of St Nicetas from the holy warriors fresco at Manasija Monastery
s
Resavica
tain
j
Mo Kuča
POMORAVLJE
un
Jagodina RAVANICA
MONASTERY
Ćuprija Key
Popovac
ka
Motorway
ač
Paraćin Zaječar
Main road
ev
Great
nj
Donja
Other road
pa
Mutnica
Žu
Railway
Morav
Oparić
Regional border
a
Karanovac Peak
Ćićevac
Grad Stalać Niš
Velika
Drenova
West Morav a Maletina
KRUŠEVAC
RASINA Šilijegovac
Dašnica a
n
si
Ra
Vukanja
Jastrebac
Velika Dulica
1,491 m
Prokuplje
2 Manasija
Monastery
See pp70–71.
3 Resavska Cave
Resavska pećina
Road Map D3. 20 km (13 miles) E of
Despotovac. Tel (035) 611110. Open
Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar:
no fixed hours, the guard at the
entrance can arrange limited access.
& 8 = ∑ resavskapecina.rs
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70 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
2 Manasija Monastery
Manastir Manasija
Nestled deep in the forested Resava Valley, Serbia’s most
spectacular fortified monastery was founded by Despot
Stefan Lazarević in 1418. Wary of the expanding Ottoman
Empire, Lazarević took the precaution of encircling his
Holy Trinity Church with massive walls punctuated by 11
towers, but in 1438, just 11 years after his death, Manasija
fell to the Turks. Major restoration work was carried out in
15th-Century Tiled Rosette
the 18th and 19th centuries; archaeological research and Part of the original church floor,
preservation work is still taking place at Manasija, which the rosette was miraculously
even today is a working monastery with resident nuns. undamaged when gunpowder
kegs stored in the narthex by
Austrian troops exploded in 1718.
a
sav
Re
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D3. 150 km (93 miles)
SE of Belgrade, 3 km (2 miles) E
of Despotovac. Tel (035) 611290.
Open May–Oct: 8am–7pm daily;
Nov–Apr: 8am–4pm daily. 8
guided tours. 5 8am Sun. =
∑ manasija.rs
Transport
k Belgrade. @ To Despotovac,
Old Refectory Ruins then a 10-minute taxi ride or a
The best preserved of the original monastery 45-minute walk to Manasija.
structures, the refectory building once had
two floors and an interior covered in frescoes.
Ramparts
The ramparts were 12 m (39 ft) high
and 3 m (10 ft) thick. A crenellated
wall ran along the top, protecting
those defending the monastery.
Stefan Lazarević
A renowned patron of the arts,
Lazarević (1377–1427) was also
one of Serbia’s most accom-
plished medieval writers. He
endowed Manasija Monastery
generously and invited monks
and scholars here to continue
their work of copying and dis-
tributing religious texts in a bid
to preserve Serbian culture.
8 Topola
Road Map C3. 39 km (24 miles) N
of Kragujevac. * 5,000. @
n Kneginje Zorke13, (034) 811172.
∑ topolaoplenac.org.rs
Karađorđe
Born to a pig farming family in 1768, Đorđe Petrović later became
known as Karađorđe (Black George) on account of his violent temper.
He fought on the AustroHungarian side during their 1789–92 war
against Turkey, but when they retreated and allowed the Turks to
retake his homeland of Šumadija he joined the hajduci (local Serb
rebels) in the forests. His combination of military skill and ruthless
determination transformed the unruly bunch of guerrillas into a
potent army that successfully forced the Turks out of Serbia during
the First Serbian Uprising of 1804. Karađorđe established a govern
ment and ruled the first modern Serbian state until 1813 when the
Entrance of the Karađorđe Mausoleum Turks returned with a vengeance and he escaped into exile.
Church of St George in Topola
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SERBIA AREA BY AREA 77
WESTERN SERBIA
The lush valleys of Western Serbia nurture scattered towns
and villages, its highlands teem with hardy cattle and its
pristine mountains harbour an abundance of wildlife. It was
here amongst the monasteries and hilltop forts of medieval
Raška that the Serbian Orthodox conciousness was forged with
such vigour that it survived centuries of Turkish domination.
Yet, even with the decline of the Ottoman Empire after the
Orthodox resurgence, Islamic culture proved equally resilient here,
the only part of Serbia where mosques are as common as churches.
The great monasteries of Western Serbia last brown bear populations are thriving,
are linked to the golden age of the have won national park status, as have the
country’s first dynasty. Its founder, Grand Kopaonik Mountains. Kopaonik and Tornik
Prince Stefan Nemanja, built Studenica; his are well-established ski centres, and the
son Stefan established Žiča; his grandson Ibar and Lim Rivers provide great rafting.
Stefan Vladislav built Mileševa and another The region also offers good bird-watching,
grandson, Stefan Uroš I, founded Sopoćani. biking, and hiking, while the less energetic
Only Studenica and Sopoćani are listed by can opt for the sedate pace of the Šargan
UNESCO, but all four have sublime medieval Eight train that heads high into the hills.
frescoes and are outstanding examples of Cattle farming has been a part of life
the Raška School of church architecture. here for millennia, with herders migrating
Novi Pazar, with its distinctly Oriental between the verdant southern highlands
feel, has long dominated the area. Valjevo and the northern lowlands. As a result, the
and Kraljevo boast some fine 19th-century area has long been known for its beef and
buildings, and the simple dwellings at the dairy products. Serbia’s best beef ćevapčići
open-air village museum of Sirogojno give sausages are made in Novi Pazar, while the
visitors an idea of how the majority of rural calorific speciality lepinja, a bun stuffed
Serbs have lived since medieval times. The with butter, egg and kajmak (salty clotted
Tara Mountains, where some of Europe’s cream), is found throughout the region.
Traditional wooden buildings of Drvengrad near Mokra Gora, the starting point of the Šargan Eight railway line
White Angel on the Grave of Christ, a renowned fresco on the southern wall of Mileševa Monastery
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78 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
a
south through the Ibar River valley past Kopaonik to Novi Sa
rin
va
Pazar, home to ancient monasteries and mosques, then
D
Lešnica Zvezd
west through the verdant Pešter highlands to Mileševa
Monastery and Prijepolje. Crossing the Zlatibor MAČVA
Loznica Ja
Mountains brings visitors to Zlatibor, the hopping- da Banjani
r
off point for Tara National Park, the Sirogojno Koceljeva
open-air museum, the Šargan Eight railway and Zavlaka
o
Ljubovija
v
Pustinja
le
Monastery
Getting Around
n
ri Gornja
Although railway lines connect Valjevo, Užice D na Tešnica
Stojići
and Kraljevo to Belgrade, services are likely to Rogačica
be slow and uncomfortable. Buses are a more
attractive option. Local buses link smaller towns Bajina Bašta Kosjerić
and villages, but as schedules are not always strictly Dub
adhered to it is important to allow plenty of time TARA
NATIONAL PARK Mitrovac UŽICE
for your journey. The best option is to rent a car in
Belgrade and explore the region at your own pace. Šargan-Vitasi
ŠARGAN EIGHT
Drvengrad Čajetina
a
ic
čn
bl a
Z
Uv
Po
Nova Varoš
ac
PRIJEPOLJE MILEŠEVA
MONASTERY
Lučice
Sjenica
Brodarevo
Lim
Key
Motorway
Main road
Other road
Railway
International border
Regional border
Snow-covered hotel in Kopaonik, a popular ski centre in Western Serbia Peak
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp127–8 and pp136–7
WESTERN SERBIA 79
Belgrade
b a ra
Ub
Ko l u
Lajkovac
The 13th-century Maglič Fortress near Kraljevo, one of Serbia's most dramatic and best-preserved hilltop fortresses
Mionica
Ljig
Rudnik
Sights at a Glance
Gornji
Milanovac 1 Valjevo 9 Crna Reka Monastery
2 Ovčar-Kablar Gorge 0 Prijepolje
OVČAR-KABLAR
GORGE 3 Kraljevo q Mileševa Monastery
Čačak 4 Maglič Fortress w Zlatibor
W Mrčajevci Kragujevac 5 Studenica Monastery e Sirogojno
es
Požega tM
6 Kopaonik r Šargan Eight
MORAVICA or
av
Arilje
J a 7 Novi Pazar t Tara National Park
Guča
el
Žiča KRALJEVO
a
ra Monastery
D
no
ga Kruševac
če
er
vo
em
MAGLIČ Vrnjačka
Ivanjica FORTRESS
Č
Banja
STUDENICA
Ibar
MONASTERY
Kušiči Krivača Ušće
ik
1,643 m
Ja
RAŠKA
n
vor
Rudno
o
pa
Crni vrh
Bojevo Brdo 1,795 m
Ko
1,748 m Gobelja
Raška 1,934 m
KOPAONIK
Duga
Poljana Pančićev vrh
2,016 m
Pobrđe Priština
SOPOĆANI
MONASTERY NOVI PAZAR
a
m
n
u
oz
H Tutin
og
R
CRNA REKA
MONASTERY
0 kilometres 25
0 miles 25 Brightly painted wooden windows in Drvengrad village near Mokra Gora
Colourful houses and pleasant pavement cafés lining the cobbled main street of Valjevo’s historic Tešnjar quarter
1 Valjevo side, once occupied by Turkish falcons – nesting in its oak and
Road Map B3. 90 km (56 miles) SW of
traders and craftsmen during birch forests. Serbian Orthodox
Belgrade. * 60,000. k Belgrade. £ Ottoman rule. In recent years monks escaping tyranny during
@ n Birčaninova 42, (014) 221138, the houses lining its cobbled the Byzantine and Ottoman eras
7.30am–3.30pm Mon–Sat. ∑ tov.rs main street have been turned found refuge here as early as
_ May: Jazz Fest Valjevo; Oct: Pork into characterful bars and res- the 14th century; at one point
Crackling Festival. taurants with a lively nightlife. over 300 monasteries were
scattered throughout the gorge.
Snug beneath the forested E National Museum and Today only 10 remain, linked by
Valjevo Mountains, this pleasant Muselim’s Residence a network of roads and hiking
town has an appealing historic Trg vojvode Mišića 3. Tel (014) 221041. paths with spectacular views.
centre that is split in two by the Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat (to 9pm Fri The Ovčar Banja spa, set mid-
Kolubara River. The northern & to 3pm Sun). & = ∑ museum. way through the gorge, has a
half, developed in the early 19th org.rs 38° C (100° F) mineral water
century after Serbs liberated the P Nenadović Tower pool and good access to the
town from the Turks, is focused Kula Nenadovića. Open Currently hiking routes; hotel staff can
on pedestrianized Kneza Miloša. closed to the public. organize boat trips on the
At the street’s eastern end is nearby Lake Međuvršje.
the award-winning National Environs
Museum (Narodni muzej), with Tucked away in a hidden valley
a series of superbly presented is the small Pustinja Monastery,
exhibitions, including a section which is famed for the marvel-
dedicated to World War I when lously vivid and well-preserved
Valjevo was a military hospital 17th-century frescoes of Serbian
town treating typhus patients saints and Biblical characters on
from all over Serbia; American its façade and interior walls.
and British volunteer nurses
were among the heroic medical R Pustinja Monastery
staff. Just behind the museum is Poćuta, 25 km (15 miles) SW of Valjevo.
the town’s oldest building, the Open 7am–7pm daily. =
18th-century Turkish Governor’s
house known as the Muselim’s Isposnica svetog Save, hidden away in the
Residence (Muselimov konak) 2Ovčar-Kablar ruggedly beautiful Ovčar-Kablar Gorge
that today houses an exhibition Gorge
about the First and Second Ovčarsko-kablarska klisura
Serbian Uprisings. A 20-minute Road Map C4. 100 km (62 miles) S
3 Kraljevo
walk north of the museum of Belgrade. Road Map C4. 140 km (87 miles) SW
along Vojvode Mišića is the of Belgrade. * 69,000. k Belgrade.
sturdy Nenadović Tower (Kula Carved out by the West Morava £ @ n Trg srpskih ratnika 25,
Nenadovića), built during the River, this densely wooded (036) 316000. ∑ jutok.org.rs
First Serbian Uprising by local gorge meanders between the _ Jul: Merry Downriver Ride, Jazzibar
rebel leader Jakov Nenadović steep cliffs of the Ovčar and Festival; Sep: Kraljevski Filmski Festival.
(1765–1836) to protect the Kablar mountain ranges for
town from the invading Turks. 20 km (12 miles). It is an orni- Spread across a shallow valley
Near the museum, a stone thologist’s paradise with over at the heart of the Raška region,
bridge links Kneza Miloša to the 100 bird species – including Kraljevo is an attractive city with
Tešnjar quarter on the opposite golden eagles and peregrine some fine buildings and a good
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp127–8 and pp136–7
WESTERN SERBIA 81
www.ebook3000.com
82 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
P Isa-beg Hammam
Prvog maja. Open 8am–10pm
daily. -
E Ras Museum
Stevana Nemanje 20. Tel (020) 331681.
Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm
Sat. & = ∑ muzejras.org
Environs
Skiers taking to the slopes at Kopaonik ski resort The Sts Peter and Paul Church
(Crkva svetog Petra i Pavla) was
6 Kopaonik military fortress Isaković built in built around the 9th century on
Road Map C5. 275 km (171 miles) S
Novi Pazar have long since been the site of a 4th-century Roman
of Belgrade. ∑ skijalistasrbije.rs incorporated into the town’s church. The founder of the pow-
central park. erful Nemanjić dynasty, Stefan
Along with Zlatibor (see p86) The main draw is Prvog maja Nemanja, was baptized and
and Stara planina (see p121), or 1st May Street, located in married here. The simple stone
Kopaonik is best known for its the old town. Known locally as structure has three layers of
international ski resort. It is the Istanbul Street, it is lined with battered frescoes dating back to
country’s largest mountain characterful family-run jewellery the 11th century, and is notable
range and has had national park shops, bakeries and coffee and for its circular foundation and an
status since 1981. The main ski tea houses. Just off the pedestri- unusual balcony in the cupola
centre at Ravni Kopaonik is set anized street are the crumbling reserved for royal worshippers.
around the two highest peaks – walls of the Isa-beg Hammam, The overgrown ruins of Stari
Gobelja (1,934 m/6,345 ft) and a bathhouse that was commis- Ras Fortress, on a hilltop west of
Pančićev vrh (2,016 m/6,614 ft) sioned by Novi Pazar’s Turkish Novi Pazar, have not yet been
– and has 12 km (7 miles) of founder. Partially renovated, it is fully excavated and are only
cross-country ski tracks, over now a small café, with a shaded accessible by a rough track.
55 km (34 miles) of downhill ski courtyard that is a great spot for The fort served as capital of the
runs, and several resort hotels. a glass of Turkish tea. At the far Serbian state of Raška between
More accommodation is avail- end of 1st May Street, where the the 8th and 13th centuries. Both
able in nearby Brzeće village, town’s first residential quarter Stari Ras and Sts Peter and Paul
linked to Ravni Kopaonik by a was located, is the 16th-century Church have been added to the
3-km (2-mile) cable car. Outside Altun-alem Mosque with its UNESCO World Heritage Site list
the ski season the region is per- 25-m (82-ft) high minaret, visi- alongside Sopoćani Monastery.
fect for hiking and bird-watching. ble from afar and audible five
times a day (see p23). Sts Peter and Paul Church
The Ras Museum (Muzej Ras), Open Irregular hours (key available
7 Novi Pazar set in an attractive 19th-century from the nearby house or ask at the
Road Map C5. 300 km (186 miles) S of
Ottoman-style building across visitor information centre in town).
Belgrade. * 69,000. k Belgrade. @
n 28. novembra 27, (020) 338030.
∑ tonp.rs ∑ novipazar.rs _ Aug:
Old City Music Festival.
9 Crna Reka
Monastery
Manastir Crna Reka
Road Map C5. 30 km (18 miles) S of
Novi Pazar. Open 5am–7pm daily.
5 5am daily. =
E Drvengrad
Mokra Gora. Tel (031) 800686. & for
non-guests only. 0 - = ® _
Jan: Küstendorf International Film and
Music Festival. ∑ mecavnik.info Modern concrete high-rises amidst traditional red-roofed houses in Užice
www.ebook3000.com
SERBIA AREA BY AREA 89
NORTHERN SERBIA
Watered by the Danube, Sava and Tisa Rivers and covered
with golden fields stretching to the horizon, Vojvodina’s
endless flat expanses are the bread basket of Serbia. Its six
official languages and 26 ethnic groups reveal a cultural
complexity that has long been sustained by the region’s fertile
soil, while its rich heritage of ancient ruins, dramatic fortresses
and fine buildings is a testament to both the misfortunes and
the achievements of migrant communities past and present.
The great plains north of Belgrade, formed Petrovaradin Fortress, today one of the top
10 million years ago by the Pannonian Sea, sights in Vojvodina. Across the Danube,
were inhabited by successive waves of Novi Sad was founded by Serb merchants
Indo-European tribes before the Romans who gifted it the mar vellous edifices that
arrived in the 1st century BC. The fascinat- set it apart from other towns; the Bačka
ing remains of Sirmium, one of the Roman Bishop’s Palace and the buildings around
Tetrarchy’s four capitals, can be seen under Freedom Square are especially striking.
the city of Sremska Mitrovica, and are an Of the Christian architecture created by
unmissable sight for history enthusiasts. the region’s German migrants, the splen-
Marauding Huns, Goths and Avars ended did Catholic cathedrals of Novi Sad and
Roman rule. The Slavic tribes that followed Vršac are well worth a visit, while the folk-
were displaced by Hungarians in the 10th influenced Naïve art of Kovačica’s Slovaks
century, who built a mighty fortress at Bač; and the sublime Art Nouveau structures
its evocative ruins are now a local attrac- of Subotica will appeal to art lovers.
tion. The Turks ruled the region until they No visit to this beautiful region would
in turn were ousted in the 17th century by be complete without a walking or driving
the Habsburgs, who encouraged Serbs to tour through the forested hills of Fruška
settle in the region in return for protecting Gora to explore the serenely graceful
its southern borders. The Habsburgs also Orthodox monasteries that are scattered
reinforced their defences by building across these gentle slopes.
The elegant Neo-Gothic Church of the Name of Mary in Freedom Square, the pedestrianized hub of Novi Sad
Subotica’s Art Nouveau Raichle Mansion, built by architect Ferenc Raichle in 1904
www.ebook3000.com
90 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Budapest
Palić
SUBOTICA Lake Kanjiža
Sights at a Glance Lake Ludaš
Palić
1 Novi Sad pp92–5 NORTH
2 Sremski Karlovci Ridica
Bajmok Žednik BANAT
3 Fruška Gora Monastery Cantavir
Tour p97 Senta
NORTH
4 Sremska Mitrovica Bezdan Svetozar BAČ KA Tis
Miletić
a
5 Bač
Bačka Ada
6 Subotica Sombor Topola
7 Kovačica Mali Iđoš
8 Vršac WEST
Crvenka
9 Bela Crkva Apatin BAČKA Novi
Kula Bečej Bečej
Sonta
Vrbas Srbobran
Čurug
Odžaci SOUTH
BAČKA
Temerin
Bački
Da BAČ Petrovac
nu Žabalj
be
(D Bačka
un NOVI SAD
av) Palanka
T
Petrovaradin
Fortress
Beočin SREMSKI
FRUŠKA GORA KARLOVCI
Šid
MONASTERY TOUR
SREM
Ruma Inđija
Karlovčič
Obrež
Sa
va
0 kilometres 20
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p128 and pp137–8
NORTHERN SERBIA 91
The twin towers of the Cathedral of St Nicholas and the grey spire of the Church of the Holy Trinity rising above the roofline of Sremski Karlovci
CENTRAL
Melenci BANAT
Jaša Tomić
Zrenjanin
Boka
Mužlja
Ti
sa
Titel
Plandište
iš
Tam
KOVAČICA VRŠAC
Uljma
Alibunar
Belegiš
Vase decorated in the folk-influenced
Crepaja
SOUTH BANAT Naïve art tradition of Kovačica
Belgrade
Deliblato Sands BELA
Belgrade
(Deliblatska CRKVA
Peščara) Key
Pančevo
Deliblato
Motorway
Starčevo
Da
Main road
u Kovin
n
(D
u na v ) Railway
Paraćin
International border
Regional border
1 Novi Sad
The core of Serbia’s second city boasts broad pedestrianized
streets lined with delightful Neo-Classical buildings and
outdoor cafés. Serbian merchants established Novi Sad as
a trading town in 1694, shortly after the construction of
Petrovaradin Fortress had begun across the Danube, and the
town matured into a “Serbian Athens” where Serbian culture
flourished. In 1849 Hungarian troops in Petrovaradin shelled
the city, razing most of it. It escaped major damage during the
World Wars, but NATO’s 1999 bombing destoyed all three of
its bridges and much of its infrastructure. Novi Sad has since
undergone a transformation – the bridges have been rebuilt
and the damage repaired, there is a thriving social scene and The yellow-brick Church of the Name of
the EXIT festival has become an internationally acclaimed event. Mary opposite City Hall on Freedom Square
P Dunavska
Lined with charming pastel
buildings constructed after the
1849 bombardment, the cafés
and ice cream parlours of this
pleasant pedestrianized street
attract both locals and visitors
as they make their way between
the centre of town and the
Danube Park. It is one of Novi
Sad’s oldest streets and was
originally used to transport
goods to and from the river. Bifora windows surrounded by decorative stonework, Bačka Bishop’s Palace
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p128 and pp137–8
NORTHERN SERBIA 93
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B2. 94 km (58 miles)
NW of Belgrade. * 222,000.
n Trg slobode 3/3, (021) 421811,
6617343. ∑ novisad.travel
_ Jul: EXIT Music Festival.
Transport
k Belgrade. £ @ v
DRA
1 Museum of Vojvodina St Nicholas
ED
SKA
ER T I ŠM
E
KA
SK
GR
ĐU Church S TE V
A D IJ
2 Dunavska
OV S
RE N AN A M ILO VA N
IK DA O VA
NE
JA O
KO S
KŠ NIĆ
ŠUM
LE
AT
I ĆE
D U ŠA NA
VA
ZL
PA
ŠI T RG
4 Cathedral of St George SVE
TOZ
Ć
A Cathedral of RE P U BL
IK E
ARA St George M ILO Š
A BA
5 St Nicholas Church J IĆ A
B EOGRAD
MI
T R GV I Ć E V
Bačka Bishop’s
ĆA
LET Park
JE A
6 Freedom Square
SIL RK
IĆA
VI
LA Palace za pse
ZE
VA Ž A
FKO
TE
LE DU
NA
(Dunav)
Museum of
7 Synagogue ČK VSK
TRI
IN J
Serbian OG A
V A
A
Vojvodina
JO ZM
National DUNA
SKI
A
ĆA
Name of Mary
L E RI B AR
KEJ
VI
Fortress
O
D anube
A
AN
AS
US
Freedom Par k
NJ
Varadinski
VL
G
G Square
PE
PA V L
OVA
TR most
O
PA
IV E LO
A PA NI
IJE
PA M
R IŠ
NS
City Hall
A
IL
ZO O
Š A FA R I K
AT
PO D
KA
EN
RA
ND A
NJ
SA LJ
Arena E
IG
EK RA
Cineplex PUPINA
AL K
LA
VIĆA
A
K MIHAJ Petrovaradin Fortress
BOŠKO A
PO
JS BULEV
AR 800 metres (870 yards)
JO VA N
RE
Š TA N S K A
V
JE 0 metres 300
The Strand
Synagogue 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
0 yards 300
Petrovaradin Fortress
Petrovaradinska tvrđava
Dominating the high ground of the Danube’s eastern bank,
this formidable fortress was built by the Habsburgs after
they wrested Petrovaradin from the Ottomans in 1687.
Designed by French military architect Sebastian Vauban,
it could shelter 30,000 men in 16 km (10 miles) of labyrin
thine subterranean tunnels and was fitted with 18,000
defensive loopholes. The fort proved its worth even before The Gates of Petrovaradin
completion when the Turks were defeated at the Battle of Leopold’s Gate is the fort’s main
entrance; its numerous other
Petrovaradin in 1716. A section of the defensive tunnels gates include Carl VI’s, Ludwig’s,
can now be visited as part of a tour. The highly acclaimed Molinari’s, Kamenica and
EXIT music festival is held within the fortress every July. Communication Gates.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B2. Petrovaradin
Fortress: Novi Sad. Open 8am–
5pm Tue–Sun. 8 - = _ Jul:
EXIT Music Festival. ∑ novisad.
travel. City Museum: Tvrdava 4,
Petrovaradin. Tel (021) 6433145.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
∑ museumns.rs
Transport
@ No. 3 from Novi Sad. Taxis are
.City Museum also available, or visitors can walk
Housed in the former Gunners’ Barracks, the museum’s across the Varadin Bridge.
impressive exhibitions are dedicated to Petrovaradin’s
history and 18th- and 19th-century Novi Sad city life.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
.Underground Galleries
For extra security, officers
would be familiar only with
their allotted section of tunnel,
and very few people knew the
entire layout of the network. In the
19th and 20th centuries the tunnels
were used as dungeons – famous
inmates included Karađorđe and Tito.
v)
una
b e (D
Danu EXIT Music Festival
This music festival began in 2000 as a student protest
against the Milošević regime under the slogan “EXIT 10
.Clock Tower years of madness”. Milošević was ousted in October 2000
One of the main attrac-
and the following year the festival moved to Petrovaradin.
tions of Petrovaradin, the
Since then it has been held here every July, steadily gaining
18th-century clock
in reputation and size – it routinely attracts over 150,000
tower is famous for
visitors – and featuring major international acts such as the
having a short hand
Sex Pistols, Lily Allen, the Arctic Monkeys and Kraftwerk.
indicating minutes
and a long hand
showing the hours so
that the time could be
read from a distance.
www.ebook3000.com
96 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
by Jakov Orfelin (d. 1803) and Mitrovica The ruined fortress of one of
Teodor Kračun (1732–81). The Road Map B2. 75 km (47 miles) W
Vojvodina’s oldest towns lies on
adjacent 1768 Roman Catholic of Belgrade. * 37,600. £ @ the outskirts of Bač. First men-
Church of the Holy Trinity n Svetog Dimitrija 10, (022) 618275. tioned in Byzantine Emperor
(Crkva svetog Trojstva) is famed ∑ tosmomi.rs _ Aug: Srem Folk Justinian’s correspondence in
for its Baroque wooden doors. Fest. ∑ sremfolkfest.org.rs 535, Bač was a fortified settle-
Further south is Serbia’s oldest ment that Mongolian invaders
grammar school, founded in This pleasant town on the Sava sacked in 1241. The current fort
1791. Its current Art Nouveau- has attractive buildings of the dates back to the 14th century
influenced structure was built in 18th and 19th centuries, but when Hungarian King Charles I
1891. There is also an excellent most visitors are riveted by what (1288–1342) built it on what
was then an island. The Turks
conquered Bač in 1529 and held
The Wineries of Sremski Karlovci
it until 1699. It was then given
The town’s winemaking reputation goes back to the Ottoman era, to the Habsburgs, who deliber-
when many citizens were involved in its production and often paid ately destroyed the fort in 1704
their taxes in wine. The dessert wine Bermet originates from here; its
to prevent the Hungarian rebels
secret recipe of fruit and spices is said to have been created by monks
under Rákóczi (1676–1735) from
who were trying to preserve the wines they produced. There are
more than 20 wineries around town, each with its own specialities. taking control. The towers and
Wine tastings can be arranged through the visitor information office. walls are in ruins but the central
keep has been fully restored.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p128 and pp137–8
NORTHERN SERBIA 97
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5
Beocin
6 Vrdnik Monastery
The Classical-style church at
“Little Ravanica” is famed for
having held the relics of Prince
Lazar between 1697 and 1941.
Grabovo
Bač Ležimir
Sviloš
2 Grgeteg Monastery
Restored in the 19th century, Lug
Grgeteg’s St Nicholas Church
has a stunning marble iconos-
tasis which replaced Jakov
Orfelin’s older version in 1899.
www.ebook3000.com
98 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
E Raichle Mansion
Park Ferenca Rajhla 5. Tel (024)
553725. Open 8am–7pm Mon–
Fri, 8am–1pm Sat. & =
∑ likovnisusret.rs
Environs
Palić is an atmospheric lakeside
health resort that had its heyday
in the late 19th century when
Komor and Jakab built its strik
ing Art Nouveau buildings. This
haven of tranquillity is perfect
for birdwatching trips, cycling,
walking or just enjoying the
wooded gardens and lake views.
} Palić
7 km (4.5 miles) E of Subotica. n Trg
slobode 1, Subotica, (024) 670350,
8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat.
7 0 - = ® ∑ palic.rs
The colossal, richly decorated Art Nouveau City Hall on Subotica’s central square
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p128 and pp137–8
NORTHERN SERBIA 99
A beautiful, serene lake in the countryside around Bela Crkva, a popular spot during the summer
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SERBIA AREA BY AREA 101
EASTERN SERBIA
As a frequently volatile border zone during the Roman,
Byzantine and Ottoman eras, Eastern Serbia was where
monarchs built military camps and mighty fortresses rather
than splendid monasteries or proud cities. Although it has
remained less developed and less visited than other parts
of the country ever since, the east boasts archaeological
gems and stunning landscapes where little has changed for
centuries and isolated communities still believe in pagan magic.
The Danube has been the setting for much soon overwhelmed by the Islamic culture
of the region’s history, and provides a glo of the expanding Ottoman Empire. The
rious backdrop to many of its sights today. Serb fortress at Golubac, which guarded
The Lepenski Vir archaeological site offers the entrance to the spectacular Iron Gates
an insight into the lives of the Mesolithic gorge, eventually fell to the Turks who
and Neolithic settlers who carved fishlike then erected Ram Fortress upstream to
faces from sandstone pebbles in recogni strengthen their river defences. They also
tion of the river’s abundant food supply, built several hammams (baths) across the
while the Viminacium Roman military camp region; some, like the one at Sokobanja,
and the Diana Roman fort emphasize the have developed into popular spa resorts.
Danube’s early strategic importance. Of the many ethnic groups that migrated
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Felix here over the years, Wallachian Vlachs were
Romuliana, built by Emperor Galerius, is among the most common. They brought
another Roman landmark in the region. with them distinct traditions and magical
It is also a reminder of the Romans’ pagan pagan rituals that are still practised by their
beliefs – Galerius was a keen persecutor isolated communities. The bestknown
of Christians and the last Roman ruler to Vlach witches can be found near Negotin,
be deified. After his death, Christianity which also has a reputation for fine wines
spread across the region and flourished in from riverside vineyards, a per fect accom
the medieval Serbian kingdoms, but was paniment to local fish soup or bean stew.
Colourful Roman mosaic depicting a bird at Viminacium, founded as a Roman military camp in the 1st century AD
The Danube River flowing through the imposing cliffs of the Iron Gates gorge
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102 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Ram
v )
u na Veliko
D Gradište
e(
Getting Around n ub
Da Viminacium
While it is theoretically possible to travel by train Majilovac
between Belgrade, Kučevo, Zaječar and Knjaževac, Smederevo
Bare
the journey is likely to be slow and uncomfortable. Požarevac
Local buses cover the whole area but are rarely Salakovac
punctual, and services are less frequent in more
Mla
Belgrade
remote areas. A hire car is the preferable and most Boževac
va
practical option for touring this part of the country. Vlaski
Do
BRANIČEVO
Petrovac
Porodin
Šetonje
Sights at a Glance
1 Along the Danube pp104–5
2 Kučevo
3 Negotin
4 Zaječar
5 Felix Romuliana, Gamzigrad
pp110–11
6 Knjaževac
7 Sokobanja
Key
Motorway
Main road
Other road
Railway
International border
Regional border
Sokograd Fortress amidst the autumn foliage above the town of Sokobanja Peak
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp128–9 and pp138–9
EASTERN SERBIA 103
The mighty Danube River, with Golubac Fortress guarding the entrance to the Iron Gates gorge
Nati Đerd
av
Kladovo
un
on ap
ro
al
(D
Mi
Pa
Korbovo
ube
rk Lepenski Vir
KUČEVO
Dan
Grabovica
Neresnica
Donji Brza Palanka
Ravništarka Rajkova Cave Milanovac
Cave
Majdanpek
Ceremošnja 0 kilometres 20
Cave Mihajlovac
Rudna Gava Klokočevac
Hom 0 miles 20
olje Jasikovo
BOR
Mou Crnajka
Krespoljin nta
ins
De
Popovica
l i Jo
NEGOTIN
Žagubica Luka
va n
Sikole
Mokranje
Beljanica
1,339 m Brusnik
Velika Tresta Vidin,
1,284 m Bucharest
Bor ok
Brestovac m
Ti Šipikovo
Zlot Rgotina
Halovo
ZAJEČAR
FELIX ROMULIANA,
Paraćin
GAMZIGRAD
Boljevac Grljan
Crni
Tim
o k Rtanj ZAJEČAR
1,565 m
k
Tino
Bučje
Minićevo
Beli
SOKOBANJA
M o r av
Cerovica
ic
Ozren
a
1,174 m KNJAŽEVAC
Niš
Ravno Bučje
Tombstones at the Old Church in Negotin
Kalna
Veliko
Kovin Gradište
Moldova Nouă
Sirakovo
Ml
av
a
Smederevo
Golubac
Požarevac
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp128–9 and pp138–9
EASTERN SERBIA 105
Drobeta
Kladovo
)
av
Negotin
un
(D
Korbovo
be
nu
Da
Donji
Milanovac
Majdanpek
7 Tablet of Trajan
Visible only by boat, the monumental
Tablet of Trajan (Tabula Traiana) was
carved in AD 103 to commemorate 8 Đerdap Dam
the completion of Trajan’s road. It was One of Europe’s biggest hydroelectric power
moved here from its original position plants and the largest on the Danube, Đerdap
when the river level rose in 1972. Dam (Đerdapska brana) generates more than 10
billion kW/year. When it was built in 1972 it made
the river rise 35 m (115 ft) and fatally blocked the
migration route of the Beluga sturgeon (see p21).
Massive ramparts and octagonal tower of Golubac Fortress on the banks of the Danube River
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108 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp128–9 and pp138–9
EASTERN SERBIA 109
Vlach Magic
The Vlach minority of Serbia
are descendants of migrants
from the Wallachia region of
western Romania. This borders
Serbia’s Timočka Krajina region,
home to a large number of the
country’s Vlachs. While most
are members of the Romanian
Orthodox Church, many still
believe in the pagan practice
of witchcraft and magic. This
remains cloaked in mystery for
the outside world as Vlachs
have always lived in closed
communities. What is known
Brightly coloured houses in Stara čarsija, the charming old town quarter of Knjaževac is that certain families have
magic powers that are kept
6 Knjaževac 7 Sokobanja secret and passed down
through females. Each Vlach
Road Map D4. 263 km (163 miles) Road Map D4. 236 km (147 miles)
village relies upon one or more
SE of Belgrade. * 18,000. £ @ SE of Belgrade. * 8,000. @ n Trg
local witches to counter black
n Knjaza Miloša 37, (019) 735230. oslobođenja 2, (018) 830271. _ Aug:
magic or to cast white magic
∑ toknjazevac.org.rs _ Aug: Sokobanja Accordion Festival.
spells. Vlach and nonVlach
Serbian Youth Culture Festival.
“You arrive old, you leave young” Serbs from across the country
∑ www.festivalkulture.com
come to consult wellknown
is the catchy slogan used to
witches such as Baba Jovanka
Surrounded by forested hills, advertise one of Serbia’s most
about problems regarding
farmland and scenic valleys, popular spa towns. Visited by their health or personal lives.
Knjaževac is a peaceful provin thousands every year, the town
cial town on the Svrljiški Timok is often fully booked during the
River with a delightful old summer. The Romans were the sights are near its pleasant
quarter known as Stara čarsija. first to appreciate its air quality central square where the
Meticulously restored and and curative springs, and later restored 15thcentury Turkish
painted in pretty pastel colours, the Ottomans built baths here, baths can be accessed via the
its 19thcentury buildings line but it wasn’t until Prince Miloš Specijalna bolnica health
the river between two bridges began visiting in the 19th cen centre. Opposite the baths is
that complete the picture post tury that it became fashionable. an 1884 Orthodox church and
card appeal. The City Museum Named after Sokograd, the Miloš’s19thcentury residence,
(Muzej grada) is devoted to ruined 7thcentury clifftop fort now hosting shops and a café.
19thcentury interior decor but ress nearby, the town lies on the Find out about the plentiful
also has a section dedicated to Moravica River between the walking, cycling and picnicking
prominent 19thcentury politi Ozren and Rtanj Mountains of in the surrounding hills at the
cian Aca Stanojević, who once the Carpathians. It benefits from visitor information centre.
owned the house in which the natural 28–45° C (82–113° F)
museum is based. The Heritage springs and several mountain Specijalna bolnica
Museum (Zavičajni muzej) on air currents thought to be cura Vojvode Mišića 48. Tel (018) 830914,
the opposite bank is set in the tive for lung diseases. Its main 830144. ∑ soko-banja.rs
Art Nouveau mansion of a rich
mining family. Its artifacts out
line the region’s history and
include the wonderful Popović
collection of several hundred
19th and 20thcentury double
knitted socks collected from
over 200 regional hamlets and
villages by local couple Svetozar
and Vidosava Popović.
E City Museum
Njegoševa 6. Tel (019) 732228. Open
8am–4pm Mon–Fri. & =
E Heritage Museum
Karađorđeva 15. Tel (019) 731407.
Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri. The restored 15th-century Turkish baths in Sokobanja’s town square
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110 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
. Western Gate
Flanked by two mighty outer towers and two inner
towers from the earlier fortifications, the Western
Gate is today used as the front entrance. It would
originally have been the complex’s back door as the
Eastern Gate was designed to be the main entrance.
KEY
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map D4. 1 km (0.5 mile)
SE of Gamzigrad, 11 km (7 miles)
W of Zaječar. Tel (019) 422930.
Open Apr–Oct: 8am–8pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. & 8
7 - = ∑ muzejzajecar.org
Transport
@ Hourly buses from Zaječar to
Gamzigrad take 15 minutes, then
. Roman Mosaics Felix Romuliana is a 15-minute
Corridors and rooms were paved with intricate mosaics, mostly walk away; taxis from Zaječar to
geometric in design. One showing the solar system was found Felix Romuliana take 15 minutes.
where Galerius had his stibadium (semicircular dining seat),
and another of Dionysus, the god of wine, was uncovered in
the triclinium, the emperor’s dining and entertaining room.
Courtyard
A peristyle courtyard with
nine Corinthian columns and
five doorways occupied the
northeast part of the palace.
The fine flooring has disap-
peared; today only the rough
under floor remains. Two taller
columns framed the entrance
to the dining room with its
beautiful mosaic floor.
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
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SERBIA AREA BY AREA 113
SOUTHERN SERBIA
Fought over for centuries by successive empires, this
strategic region was coveted for its natural corridors to
Bulgaria and Greece through mountainous river valleys that
sheltered scattered settlements and blocked access to
intruders. Those turbulent years have faded into history,
leaving behind a legacy of legends and picturesque ruins;
these once indomitable mountains have long since been
conquered by keen hikers, cyclists and nature lovers.
Niš has dominated the region since the Vranje’s St Petka’s Church and the isolated
Roman era, when a military camp was Poganovo Monastery are worth a visit. Niš,
established close to the confluence of Vranje and Pirot developed into Ottoman
the Nišava and South Morava Rivers. The towns and, despite their preponderance of
immense Ottoman fortress built on the modern architecture, have several attrac
same site is now a popular attraction and tive museums between them.
symbol of the city. The legendary Roman Wherever you go in this picturesque
emperor Constantine the Great was born region, the mountains follow; many are in
here and some of the country’s most the Stara planina Nature Park, highly rated
remarkable Roman mosaics can be seen by birdwatchers and crisscrossed with
within the ruins of his summer villa in wellmarked paths. Mountain huts offer
Mediana, outside Niš. Another of southern simple accommodation while spa resorts
Serbia’s famous sons, Emperor Justinian, at Prolom Banja and Lukovska Banja
had a fine Byzantine city built from scratch provide more comfortable facilities.
at Caričin Grad; its evocative overgrown No trip to the south would be complete
foundations are all that remain today. without visiting the otherworldly stone
Of the medieval Christian architecture columns that rise mysteriously from the
that sprung up before the arrival of the ground at Devil’s Town and are considered
Turks, Kuršumlija’s St Nicholas Church, to be Serbia’s most unusual natural sight.
The unique, naturally formed stone columns of Devil’s Town near Kuršumilija
Picturesque 14th-century Poganovo Monastery standing at the base of steep cliffs near Pirot
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114 SERBIA AREA BY AREA
Varoš
Getting Around
Niš is connected by rail to Kuršumlija, Vranje and Deligrad Subotinac
Pirot, but buses are likely to be more comfortable.
Aleksinac
The Prolom Banja and Lukovska Banja resorts can
Vrelo
both arrange transport from Niš or Belgrade, but
visitors planning to visit out of the way sights such NIŠAVA
as Poganovo Monastery or Caričin Grad will either Gornja
need to engage a local taxi or consider hiring a car li c
Toponica
from Niš. Allow plenty of time for the trip as the Kruševac Jastre M ar e b a
ba
c Ja s
t NIŠ
mountain roads are narrow and slow in places.
Blace
Merćez
Sights at a Glance Prokuplje
So
ut
Banja
TOPLICA
Mo
2 Kuršumlija
rav
3 Devil’s Town
KURŠUMLIJA Žitni Potok
a
1,441 m
u
Go
K
ljak
Priština
VRANJE
Bujanovac
Sveta
Petka
Preševo
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p129 and p139
SOUTHERN SERBIA 115
Momčilov Grad fortress, built in the 14th century at Pirot by Bulgarian ruler Momčilo
Knjaževac
Svrljig
Midžor
2,169 m
St
ar Babin Zub
a Ski Resort
pla
nina
Babin Kal
STARA PLANINA
NATURE PARK
Bela Palanka Ni š a
va
Slavinja
PIROT
Ravna
Su Dubrava PIROT
va Smilovci
pl Babušnica
an
ina Dimitrovgrad
Rosulja
1,058 m
Poganovo
Monastery
Vlasotince Sofia
Grdelica b
u Kalna
oz Orlovac
Petačinci
r
1,707 m
Ost
d
a
am
Gr Groznatovci
Vladičin Han
Rugged landscape of the Stara planina Nature Park
Surdulica
V
ar
de
ni Key
PČINJA Motorway
Bosilegrad Motorway under construction
Main road
Zelenčev vrh Crnook
1,574 m 1,881 m
Other road
Railway
Trgovište
0 kilometres 25 International border
0 miles 25 Regional border
Peak
1 Niš
Niš lost much of its fine 19th-century architecture to Allied
bombing raids during World War II, but its massive Ottoman
fortress escaped relatively unscathed. It remains the city’s key
attraction along with the lively pedestrianized town centre
and historic sights. Although the city has been occupied since
Neolithic times, it developed most rapidly during the Roman
era when it was the hometown of Constantine the Great and
an important stage of the Roman Via Militaris route between
Belgrade and Constantinople. The best examples of Roman
remains can be seen at Mediana, just outside the centre. Held
by Bulgarians, Byzantines and Serbs before falling to the Turks The graceful three-domed Bali-beg
in the 15th century, Niš was eventually liberated in 1878. Mosque, with Roman ruins beside it
AN
SA
S
AL
EK rebels. Just a few
RA
JE
BU
KA
O
O
RA
RA
ČKA
VSK A
DS
R
KA
Niš
12
Bus Fortress
Station
.
FE B R U A R A
P Mediana
V I N AV E R O VA
Bali-beg
Mosque Bulevar Cara Konstantina, 5 km
A
SK
BL
E DINIĆ
ZEK BAŠE
D
KA
LJU
7, (018) 521321. Open The site is
BO
J
A
BU
CEG
O R LO
CETINJSKA
T O VA ČK A
Š U MA
entry is by appointment with the
VIĆA
A
RIĆ
IGO visitor information centre. & 7
AL a v a SEDMOG J
ULA
EP iš
PAV L A
MIK N
K EJ M KEJ
I KE PALIG O RIĆA Symphony TRG
KRALJA
Roman Emperor Constantine
Orchestra
SIME MA
TA V U L J A
MILANA
Skull Tower
2.5 km (1.5 miles)
the Great (280–337) built him
ĐA
A ĐOR self a grand summer villa in the
KAR
N A D IĆ
TOM
Archaeologists’ excavations of
L JU
S V E T O Z AR A MARKOVIĆA
VA
G IN JE
GE N E RA A
Vilin Grad
Sights at a Glance NIKO Cinema remarkable 1,000 sq m (1,200
LA
LE
OBREN
TRG KRALJA PA Š I Ć
ALEKSANDRA A sq yd) of mosaics along with
1 Red Cross Camp UJEDINITELJA
National
KOPITAR
S TA
EVA
Museum frescoes and many artifacts that
Museum
ME
KO OV I Ć
2 Niš Fortress AC OB LA ČI
ĆA
museum. The mosaics have
VEN RA DA
PRIJEZDINA
O B R E N O V I ĆE VA
3 Obrenovićeva
A
O B IL I Ć
E V recently been protected by
DA N O VA
Cathedral of
5 Cathedral of the the Holy Trinity archaeological explorations
JUG BOG
Prolom Banja
26.5 km (16.5 miles) S of Kuršumlija.
Tel (027) 8388111. 0 - = ®
∑ prolombanja.com
Lukovska Banja
35 km (22 miles) W of Kuršumlija.
Tel (027) 385999. 0 - = ®
∑ lukovskabanja.com The great ruins and foundations at Caričin Grad (Justiniana Prima)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p129 and p139
SOUTHERN SERBIA 121
7 Vranje
Road Map D5. 125 km (78 miles) S
of Niš. * 55,000. £ @ n 29.
novembra 2, (017) 417545.
Overshadowed by mountains
that form a natural border with
Kosovo, Vranje lies in a densely
cultivated valley beside the
South Morava River. This is the
southernmost city in Serbia and
most of its sights come from the
time it spent under Ottoman
Museum of Ponišavlje set in a 19th-century house in Pirot rule from 1455 to 1878.
The Holy Trinity Cathedral
just outside the town, but are Stara planina (Old Mountains) (Crkva svete Trojice), built below
currently closed to the public. boast myriad waterfalls, lakes, ground level in 1841 to be less
Pirot is known for its tradition of gorges and canyons. Home to prominent than local mosques,
making cheese, kilims (rugs) and over 200 bird species, the park dominates the city centre. From
ceramics. Some lovely examples is listed on the international IBA the centre, the pedestrianized
of the latter two, along with an (Important Bird and Biodiversity Kralja Stefana Prvovenčanog,
original carpet loom and tradi Area) register; it also shelters with lively pavement cafés,
tional 19thcentury furniture, 147 endangered plant species leads uphill towards Staniše
are on display at the Museum as well as bears, snow voles and Stošića Square and the Pasha’s
of Ponišavlje (Muzej Ponišavlja), ground squirrels. Detailed infor Residence (Pašin konak). Built
which is set in a characterful mation about hiking routes and in 1756, this was once the resi
19thcentury home that was mountain accommodation can dence of the pasha (Turkish
once owned by a wealthy local be found at the excellent visitor governor) and now houses the
merchant. Also worth a quick information centre in Pirot. city museum. It consists of two
visit is the Old Church (Stara The Stara planina also contain buildings linked by a hidden
crkva), built below ground level the highest peaks in Serbia – bridge; the main building facing
in 1834 to obey the Turkish rule Babin Zub at 1,758 m (5,768 ft) the square was for the pasha
that Christian churches could and Midžor at 2,169 m (7,116 ft). while the rear building was for
not be higher than mosques. The Babin Zub Ski Resort has his harem. Further up the hill is a
13 km (8 miles) of runs and is 17thcentury Turkish hammam,
Environs one of Serbia’s three main ski restored in 2003 although not
Poganovo Monastery lies in a centres along with Kopaonik open to the public. Beyond this
gloriously isolated spot beneath (see p82) and Zlatibor (see p86). lies the Roma quarter, Gornja
steep cliffs, accessed by a narrow Čaršija, famous for its folk
road that winds its way through Babin Zub Ski Resort musicians. According to legend,
the spectacular Jerma Gorge. 50 km (31 miles) N of Pirot. the White Bridge nearby was
Built in the late 14th century, Tel (011) 2223986. Open Dec–Apr: built in 1844 by a distraught
the monastery was restored 9am–3.30pm daily. 0 - = local Turk who shot his daughter
in the 19th. Its wellpreserved ® ∑ skijalistasrbije.rs by mistake while trying to kill
frescoes were added by Greek her illicit Serbian lover. Another
painters in the 16th century. legend asserts that each time
the Turks tried to add a minaret
R Poganovo Monastery to the pretty 14thcentury
31 km (19 miles) S of Pirot. St Petka’s Church (Crkva svete
Open 8am–7pm daily. = Petke) next door, the minaret
collapsed so they eventually
gave up trying. The church is
6 Stara planina
very popular for christenings.
Nature Park Holy Trinity Cathedral
Park prirode Stara planina
Dositejeva. Open 7.30am–8pm daily.
Road Map E5. 29 km (18 miles) NE 5 8am Sun. =
of Pirot. n Srpskih vladara br. 82,
E Pasha’s Residence
Pirot, (010) 320838, 8am–4pm Mon–
Fri (to 1pm Sat). ∑ topirot.com Pionirska 1. Tel (017) 423875. Open
∑ srbijasume.rs 8am–3pm Mon, 8am–8pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat–Sun. & =
Running from the eastern edge St Petka’s Church
of Serbia right across Bulgaria to Skiers making their way to the slopes at Devet Jugovića. Open Opening times
the Black Sea, the picturesque the Babin Zub Ski Resort in Stara planina not fixed, enquire at the tourist office.
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TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
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124 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
From mountainous spa hotels and rooms much of the country’s ageing hotel stock has
within medieval monasteries to luxurious been refurbished to international standards.
hotels in cities and rural farmsteads, Serbia To cope with increasing tourist numbers, new
offers an ever-expanding choice of places facilities are being built to suit all budgets.
to stay to suit most tastes. Until recently, Even the more remote parts of Serbia have
the accommodation situation in Serbia was cottoned on to the trend by promoting
much the same as that of any other Eastern village and rural tourism and giving visitors
European nation emerging from decades of the chance to experience traditional ways
state control, but over the last few years of life that are rapidly fading into history.
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126 TRAVELLERS' NEEDS
Where to Stay
Feel Belgrade Downtown Price Guide
Belgrade Apartments Prices are based on one night's stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Apartment City Map D1
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Bed and Breakfast Zemun Kneginje Ljubice 11, Stari grad
Family Tel (0) 63242422 under 4,500 dinars
Gundulićeva 21, Zemun ∑ feelbelgrade.com 4,500 to 10,000 dinars
over 10,000 dinars
Tel (0) 603456116 Roomy apartments for up to four
Exceptionally well-run family people, with living area, modern
hotel in historic Zemun with kitchen and balcony with views Courtyard Marriott
small but cozy and clean rooms. of the Old Town. Great value. Boutique City Map C2
Vase Čarapića 2–4, Stari grad
Downtown Central Hostel Hotel Argo Tel (011) 4003000
Hostel City Map C2 Modern City Map D4 ∑ marriott.co.uk
Kolarčeva 7, Stari grad Kralja Milana 25, Vračar Although the modern building
Tel (011) 4073861 Tel (011) 3640425 is out of keeping with its historic
∑ dchostel.rs ∑ argohotelbelgrade.com neighbours, it is hard to find fault
Superb central hostel with an Located on the main street into with its slick, ultramodern interior.
attractive modern interior, pleas- the Old Town, this small hotel
ant communal areas, spacious has bright modern rooms and Hotel Evropa
doubles and shared bathrooms. exceptionally helpful staff. Historic City Map C2
Sremska 1, Stari grad
Basco Silicon Valley Hotel Le Petit Piaf Tel (011) 3626017
Apartments Historic City Map D2 ∑ hotelevropa.rs
Apartment City Map C1 Skadarska 34, Stari grad Set in a 19th-century building
Strahinjića bana 20, Stari grad Tel (011) 3035252 refurbished to a high standard
Tel (0) 646476991 ∑ petitpiaf.com with marble, leather and wood.
∑ bascoagency.com Fabulous location in the heart of
Modern central apartment for up historic Skadarska with comfort- Hotel Metropol Palace
to four guests, with large kitchen ably furnished rooms, attentive Luxury City Map E4
and living area. They have more service and generous breakfasts. Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, Palilula
apartments in other locations. Tel (011) 3333100
Konak Dedinje Beograd ∑ metropolpalace.com
Belgrade Boutique Hotel Family Massive luxury hotel with a state-
Boutique Vladimira Gaćinovića 2, Savski venac of-the-art spa centre and an
Miloja Đaka 32, Savski venac Tel (011) 4066244 opulent designer interior.
Tel (011) 3677888 ∑ konakdedinje.com
∑ bbh.rs This decent family-run hotel is a
Spacious and elegantly furnished 10-minute drive from the centre, DK Choice
rooms overlooking a courtyard with small, comfortable rooms, a Hotel Moskva
with a small outdoor pool. The restaurant opposite and attentive Historic/Luxury City Map C3
junior suite boasts a spa bath. owners who are eager to help. Terazije 20, Terazije
Tel (011) 3642069
Boutique Rooms Prince Hall ∑ hotelmoskva.rs
Boutique City Map C2 Boutique/Modern City Map C2 A prominent city landmark, this
Trg republike 3/VI, Stari grad Knez Mihailova 25, Stari grad striking 1908 Art Nouveau build-
Tel (011) 4088182 Tel (011) 4070443 ing has been lavishly restored. It
∑ boutiquerooms.rs ∑ princehallpalace.com boasts a hammam, sauna, spa
Small, fashionable boutique hotel Smart hotel at a great location and the excellent Tchaikovsky
with bold colours, quirky design with tastefully furnished rooms restaurant (see p135). Its guests
and the Boutique café (see p134). that are adorned with original have included Albert Einstein,
artworks by local artists. Robert De Niro and Brad Pitt.
Central Park Residence
Apartment City Map C1 Villa Skadarlija
Gospodar Jevremova 3, Stari grad Historic City Map D2
Tel (0) 63229761 Zetska 10, Stari grad
∑ centralparkresidence.rs Tel (011) 7245128
Comfortable hotel with doubles ∑ villaskadarlija.rs
and large apartments. Located Delightful place in the city's old
conveniently close to the Old bohemian quarter. Large com-
Town and Kalemegdan Fortress. fortable rooms with parquet
floors and plush furnishings.
Crystal Villa Kalemegdan
Boutique/Modern City Map C1 ZigZag Belgrade
Strahinjića bana 7, Stari grad Apartment City Map C2
Tel (011) 2637856 Maršala Birjuzova 50, Stari grad
∑ villakalemegdan.com Tel (0) 652352455
Appealing, small hotel next to ∑ zigzag.rs
Kalemegdan Park with good city Remarkably cool apartments and
views from the rooftop terrace rooms with bags of style, plenty Café Moskva in the luxury Hotel Moskva, a
bar. Generous buffet breakfast. of space, a sauna and a gym. popular Belgrade meeting place since 1908
W H E R E TO S TAY 127
Chef preparing an Italian meal at the stunning Comunale restaurant in Belgrade’s riverside Beton Hala development
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132 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
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134 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
with carp, catfish and trout and NIŠ: Biser very popular dining spot, with
an outstanding fish soup. Diners Serbian Road Map D4 pleasant outdoor seating
can watch fishermen at work Koste Stamenkovića 1 beneath pine trees. The menu
from the terrace. Tel (018) 248205 includes local trout and a choice
Packed with locals, this highly of salads and grilled meat.
regarded traditional Serbian
DK Choice restaurant has characterful decor, PIROT: Krčma Ladna voda
SOKOBANJA: Stara reasonable prices and fabulous Serbian Road Map E5
vodenica cuisine. A great place to sample Nikole Pašića 40
Serbian Road Map D4 roštilj (grilled meat). Tel (010) 323422
14. avgusta This traditional restaurant set
Tel (0) 638036104 NIŠ: Elit next to Pirot's Museum of
Set in an enchanting location in International Road Map D4 Ponišavlje has won several
wooded gardens just outside Prijezdina 5A awards for its grilled meat dishes.
Sokobanja, the Old Mill serves Tel (018) 514514 Make sure you try the pohovan
great Serbian dishes accompa Elegant restaurant where crystal kačkavalj – a slab of Pirot's
nied by homebaked bread. chandeliers, subdued lighting famous cheese fried in bread
Children can amuse themselves and impeccable waiting staff crumbs. Waiting staff clad in folk
in the play area and visit farm create an ambience of exclusivity. dress add character.
animals in a small petting zoo. On offer is Chinese, Serbian and
Italian cuisine prepared to a PROLOM BANJA: Božiji raj
consistently high standard. Serbian Road Map D5
SOKOBANJA: Vidikovac Prolom Banja
Serbian Road Map D4 Tel (027) 88288
Dragoljuba Jovanovića 5 This idyllically sited fish restaurant,
Tel (018) 830866 whose name translates to "God's
Situated on the hillside above Paradise", has its own trout farm
Sokobanja with sweeping views in Prolom Banja that supplies
of the area, this simple traditional fresh fish for the delicious Serbian
restaurant serves excellent local dishes that are served here.
cuisine including the famed Young children are well catered
lepinja sa kajmakom – a baked for with a play area and small
bread bun filled with egg, clotted petting zoo with farm animals.
cream and butter that is also
known as a calorie bomb. VRANJE: Gradska meana
Serbian Road Map D6
ZAJEČAR: Dva brata Jovana Hadživasiljevića 33
Serbian Road Map D4 Pleasure, a popular restaurant and cocktail Tel (017) 7424066
Karađorđev venac 6 bar located in central Niš A charming restaurant with a
Tel (019) 424443 lovely garden and remarkably
An unpretentious place, Zaječar's NIŠ: Pleasure good food, Gradska meana has a
Two Brothers features a bright International/ wide choice of salads made from
interior festooned with pretty Serbian Road Map D4 fresh local ingredients, along
flowers. Friendly staff are on hand Kopitareva 7 with the usual range of Serbian
to make recommendations and Tel (018) 517551 grilled meat dishes.
explain the origins of local dishes. Hugely popular central restaurant
with a reputation for fine cock VRANJE: Hobbit kuća
ZAJEČAR: Rivendell tails that attracts a stylish crowd. vilenjaka
International Road Map D4 Imaginative international dishes Serbian Road Map D6
Vojvode Mišića 10a are served in large portions, but Partizanska
Tel (0) 63403323 expect slow service at peak times. Tel (0) 631244191
This is a laidback Irish pub with This fun, hobbitthemed cellar
a shaded terrace and warm brick PIROT: Dukat restaurant features a log balcony
lined interior. Although there's no Serbian Road Map E5 and rickety wooden fences. It
Guinness, there is a selection of Vuka Pantelića 55 serves great Serbian food, but
local beer, pizzas and plenty Tel (0) 66310510 be aware that it can get uncom
of grilled meat dishes. Typical Serbian restaurant that is fortably smoky when busy.
highly rated by locals. Red and
white checked tablecloths, VRANJE: Stari bunar
antique knickknacks and rural Serbian Road Map D6
Southern Serbia styling create a cozy ambience. Save Kovačevića 21
The menu covers the full range Tel (0) 644468123
NIŠ: Riblja konoba of Serbian grilled meat options The Old Well restaurant serves
Fish/Serbian Road Map D4 and Roma bands occasionally up a mindboggling choice of
Kralja Stefana Prv. 5 turn up to serenade diners. traditional Serbian food in classy
Tel (018) 257728 surroundings. Among the dishes
This is a wonderfully atmospheric PIROT: Kafana Oaza on the menu is the legendary
fish restaurant decorated in Serbian Road Map E5 Karađorđeva šnicla, a large
traditional Serbian style. Grilled, Manastir Poganovo sausagelike dish of rolled pork
baked and smoked local fish are Tel (0) 63485438 steak stuffed with kajmak – rich,
on Riblja konoba's menu along Occupying a gorgeous spot salty clotted cream, a Serbian
with a wide selection of other opposite the isolated Poganovo speciality – then covered with
typical Serbian dishes. Monastery, this simple eatery is a breadcrumbs and fried.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 130–31
www.ebook3000.com
140 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN SERBIA
Town and city centres across the country are over the country, but Serbians still prefer
as important for socializing as they are for to buy their fruit and vegetables from local
shopping. Locals promenade, meet friends farms, so traditional covered produce markets
and shop throughout the day and gather in are as busy as ever. Most souvenirs and crafts
central cafés to smoke, drink coffee and chat, available in the country tend to be regional
which goes some way to explaining why the variations on a theme, such as folk costumes,
influx of suburban shopping malls and online embroidery and ceramics, but some, such
shops hasn’t affected their popularity and as Subotica’s straw pictures, are unique to a
vitality. New supermarkets are opening up all town or region and difficult to find elsewhere.
Markets
Every town has an outdoor
market or pijaca where seasonal
fruit, vegetables, herbs, meat
and dairy products and even
live chickens are sold by local
farmers who take great pride
in the quality of their produce.
Belgrade’s largest market is
Kalenićeva pijaca, a five-minute
walk east of the Temple of
St Sava. It sells fresh produce as
well as a quirky assortment of
bric-a-brac. Stalls selling antique A range of brightly coloured ceramicware for sale at a craft stall
SHOPPING IN SERBIA 141
Mannequins in the glittering shop window of an upmarket clothing store in Central Belgrade
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142 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN SERBIA
As the unrivalled cultural capital of Serbia, port of call for visiting international artists
Belgrade hosts an eclectic choice of events and performers, although Novi Sad has a
throughout the year at venues that range smaller but equally intense cultural scene
from tiny jazz bars and boats with pounding that culminates each year with the massive
sound systems to grand concert halls and a EXIT Music Festival and Niš has the renowned
25,000 capacity stadium. It is usually the first Nišville International Jazz Festival.
Classical Music
Most classical music concerts
in Belgrade are held at Kolarac
Hall (Kolarčeva zadužbina) or
at the Belgrade Philharmonic
Orchestra (Beogradska filhar
monija). Both these venues are
famed for their fine acoustics
and have hosted some of the
world’s top artists. Some smaller
classical concerts are performed
in Guarnerius Hall (Centar lepih
umetnosti Guarnerius). The only
other Serbian city with its own
philharmonic orchestra is Niš;
its Symphony Orchestra (Niški
simfonijski orkestar) hosts regu Brightly coloured marionettes used in children’s puppet theatre performances, Belgrade
lar concerts. Novi Sad’s main
venue for classical music, opera also host musicals, ballet and one for shows for adults, the
and theatre is the Cultural folklore shows. Belgrade’s theat other for children. The Pinokio
Centre (Kulturni centar). rical productions are more often Puppet Theatre (Pozorište
than not in Serbian, although lutaka Pinokio) stages shows
foreignlanguage performances based on fairy tales and myths.
Opera, Ballet, Folklore are staged occasionally. The Snail Theatre (Pozorište
and Theatre Puž) is dedicated to children’s
With no opera house, operatic shows of modernized fairy tales,
productions in Belgrade take Children’s Theatre and the Little Duško Radović
place at the National Theatre Several Belgrade theatres cater Theatre (Malo pozorište Duško
(Narodno pozorište) and at the to children – the oldest is the Radović) puts on productions
Madlenianum Theatre (Teatar Boško Buha Theatre (Pozorište that engage children via social
Madlenianum) in Zemun, which Boško Buha) with its two stages, and multicultural themes.
Performance of Tchaikovsky’s popular ballet Swan Lake at the National Theatre in Belgrade
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S E R B I A 143
Nightclubs Cinema
Belgrade is now well known Multiplex cinemas in shopping
throughout the Balkans for its malls have now superceded
high-energy nightlife. Clubs independent cinemas in most
open, close and change names Serbian towns and cities. Two
so frequently that it is hard to of the capital’s biggest multi-
keep pace with the scene. The plexes are the Cineplexx Ušće
situation is further complicated Shopping Centre and the
by the annual shift of clubs from Cineplexx Delta City in New
the city centre to boats moored Belgrade across the Danube
along the river that become River from the Old Town. Novi
nightclubs (splavovi) during the Sad has the Arena Cineplex,
summer. Most nightclubs are while the main multiplex in
located in the Old Town and the Niš is the Vilin Grad Cinema.
riverside Savamala area, which Animations for children are
has gradually developed from Members of a band playing jazz on usually dubbed, but all other
an industrial wasteland into the clarinet and saxophones films are generally shown in
city’s hippest district. The most their original language with
popular stretch of riverside Serbian subtitles.
clubs is to the left of Old Sava Rock and Jazz
Bridge (Tramvajski most) where Rock and pop music concerts
the boats with the loudest in Belgrade are usually staged Ticket Sales
dance music are moored. at Dom Omladine, the Sava Tickets for all events can be
For a full list of city nightclubs Centar and, for the largest bought directly from the
visit the Beograd Noću website, events, the Belgrade Arena. The venue’s own box office or online
and check Gdeizaci.com for city’s best jazz clubs are Ptica, at the Eventim website, which
up-to-date listings of events Muha and, during the summer, handles sales for major theatre
throughout the capital. the outdoor Bašta club. and concert performances.
DIRECTORY
Classical Music Opera, Ballet, Snail Theatre Ptica
Folklore and City Map F5. Radoslava City Map F3.
Belgrade Theatre Grujića 21, Belgrade. Dalmatinska 98, Belgrade.
Philharmonic ∑ pozoristepuz.com ∑ jazzclubptica.com
Orchestra Madlenianum
City Map C2. Theatre Nightclubs Sava Centar
Studentski trg 11, Glavna 32, Zemun, Milentija Popovića 9,
Belgrade. Belgrade. Beograd Noću Belgrade.
Tel (011) 3282977. Tel (011) 3162797. ∑ beogradnocu.com ∑ savacentar.net
∑ bgf.rs ∑ operatheatre Gdeizaci.com Cinema
Cultural Centre madlenianum.com ∑ gdeizaci.com
Road Map B2. National Theatre Arena Cineplex
Katolička porta 5, City Map C2. Rock and Jazz Road Map B2.
Novi Sad. Francuska 3, Belgrade. Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 3,
Tel (021) 528972. Bašta Novi Sad.
Tel (011) 2620946. City Map B3.
∑ kcns.org.rs ∑ arenacineplex.com
∑ narodnopozoriste.rs Karađorđeva 43 (Male
Guarnerius Hall stepenice 1a), Belgrade. Cineplexx Delta City
City Map D2. Džordža Children’s Theatre ∑ jazzbasta.com Jurija Gagarina 16,
Vašingtona 12, Belgrade. Belgrade. ∑ cineplexx.rs
Tel (011) 3345237. Boško Buha Theatre Belgrade Arena
∑ guarnerius.rs City Map C2. Bulevar Arsenija Cineplexx Ušće
Trg republike 3, Belgrade. Čarnojevića 58, Belgrade. Shopping Centre
Kolarac Hall ∑ buha.rs ∑ kombankarena.rs Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4,
City Map C2. Belgrade. ∑ cineplexx.rs
Kolarčeva zadužbina, Little Duško Radović Dom Omladine
Studentski trg 5, Belgrade. Theatre City Map D2. Vilin Grad Cinema
Tel (011) 635073. City Map E3. Makedonska 22/IV, Road Map D4.
∑ kolarac.rs Aberdareva 1, Belgrade. Belgrade. Obrenovićeva 19,
∑ malopozoriste.co.rs ∑ domomladine.org Niš. ∑ vilingrad.rs
Symphony Orchestra
Road Map D4. Generala Pinokio Puppet Muha Ticket Sales
Milojka Lešjanina 16, Niš. Theatre City Map B2.
Tel (018) 246620. Goca Delčeva 1, Zemun, Kralja Petra 18, Belgrade. Eventim
∑ simfonijski.com Belgrade. ∑ pinokio.rs ∑ muhabar.com ∑ eventim.rs
www.ebook3000.com
144 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Winter Sports
Kopaonik is Serbia’s premier ski
resort, with 55 km (34 miles) of
alpine runs, 12 km (7 miles) of
crosscountry runs and snow
cover from November to May.
The Babin Zub Ski Resort in the
Stara planina Mountains is a
smaller affair, with 13 km (8 miles)
of runs. In the west, the Tornik
Ski Centre at Zlatibor has 8 km
(5 miles) of runs with plans to
expand to 15 km (9 miles). Rafting enthusiasts running exciting rapids on the Ibar River
DIRECTORY
Hiking Rock Climbing Winter Sports Riding
Extreme Summit Climbing Tribe Babin Zub Ski Resort Equestrian
Team Braće Jerković 120, Road Map E4. Ski resort: Adventure Serbia
∑ extremesummit Belgrade. 50 km (31 miles) N of Road Map C4. Kamenica,
team.com Tel (0) 637442115, (0) Pirot; company office: Bare. ∑ equestrian
Serbian 63267738, (0) 638230488, Milutina Milankovića 9, adventure-serbia.org
Mountaineering (011) 3961681. New Belgrade.
Association ∑ serbianclimbing. Tel (011) 2223986. Off-roading
∑ pss.rs com/en ∑ skijalistasrbije.rs
Serbian Outdoor
Paragliding Kopaonik Ski Centre ∑ 4x4.serbianoutdoor.
Canyoning and Road Map C5. 275 km com
Caving Paragliding Serbia (171 miles) S of Belgrade.
Extreme Canyoning ∑ paraglidingserbia. ∑ skijalistasrbije.rs Bird-watching
City Map E2. Venizelosova com
Tornik Ski Centre Birdwatch Serbia
21, Belgrade. ∑ extreme Road Map B4. 200 km
Biking Road Map B2. Magelan
canyoning.com
(125 miles) SW of Belgrade. Corp., Pasiceva 7, Novi
Wild Serbia EuroVelo Tel (031) 3150004. Sad. Tel (021) 4724088.
∑ wildserbia.com ∑ eurovelo.com ∑ skijalistasrbije.rs ∑ birdwatchserbia.rs
www.ebook3000.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
www.ebook3000.com
148 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Serbians are keen to dispel any negativity network of well-run visitor information
associated with memories of the Yugoslav centres and the increasingly high standards
Wars in the 1990s, and as a result foreign of its hotels and restaurants, Serbia has
visitors are always made to feel welcome, developed rapidly into a hugely attractive
with locals often going out of their way to be tourist destination, where the country’s
helpful despite the language barrier. Thanks burgeoning number of visitors can expect
to its relaxed visa regime, comprehensive to enjoy a stress-free travel experience.
Responsible Travel
DIRECTORY
With five national parks, 325
natural monuments, 102 areas Passports and Visas
with varying degrees of environ Embassy of Australia,
mental protection and several Belgrade
more likely to receive protected Vladimira Popovića 38–40, New
status in the near future, Serbia Belgrade. Tel (011) 3303400.
has made great progress towards ∑ serbia.embassy.gov.au
preserving its natural heritage.
Organic food production is Embassy of Canada,
Belgrade
being actively encouraged and
City Map C5. Kneza Miloša 75.
a lot of the fresh vegetables and
Tel (011) 3063000. ∑ canada.rs
fruit on sale at local markets are
produced without chemicals. Embassy of New Zealand,
Travellers can also support Rome, Italy
local communities by opting for Ravanica Monastery, one of Serbia’s most Via Clitunno 44. ∑ nzembassy.
smallholdings and ecotourism popular places of worship com/italy
farms over chain hotels. This will Embassy of the United
let you stay with local families, more popular churches offer Kingdom, Belgrade
experience traditional lifestyles, black saronglike garments to City Map C4. Resavska 46.
enjoy local food and observe underdressed visitors, but most Tel (011) 3060900.
rural customs and farming tech do not. When visiting mosques, ∑ ukinserbia.fco.gov.uk
niques. For details contact the guests must take off their shoes Embassy of the United
local visitor information centre and women should cover their States, Belgrade
and visit the website of Seoski heads. Visits should be avoided Bulevar kneza Aleksandra
turizam Srbije (see p125). during prayers. Ask permission Karađorđevića 92.
before taking any photographs. Tel (011) 7064000.
∑ belgrade.usembassy.gov
Visitor Information
Admission Fees Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Serbia has an excellent network ∑ mfa.gov.rs
of visitor information centres Athough they vary from place
across the country run by the to place, admission fees at most Travel Safety Advice
National Tourism Organisation local sights and museums tend
of Serbia (NTOS). The centres to be around 250 dinars (€2) or Australian Department of
are manned by knowledgeable less. Popular attractions, such as Foreign Affairs and Trade
∑ dfat.gov.au/smartraveller.
local staff who speak several Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Museum,
gov.au
languages and can help visitors generally charge higher fees
with maps, local advice, hotels, (around 500 dinars/€4 or more). UK Foreign and
day trips, guides and more. The Commonwealth Office
information centres in Belgrade, ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-
Niš, Novi Sad and Subotica are Opening Hours advice
located in the heart of each city. Supermarkets and groceries US Department of State
Opening hours for each vary are open by 7am and close at ∑ travel.state.gov
so it is best to check in advance 10pm Monday to Saturday; on
on the NTOS website, which has Sundays they shut around 3pm. Visitor Information
details of all the centres across Malls in towns and cities are
Belgrade
the country and is itself also an usually open from 10am to City Map C2. Knez Mihailova 5.
excellent source of information. 10pm daily (see p140). Banks Tel (011) 2635622. ∑ tob.rs
are open from 9am to 5pm on
weekdays, and from 9am to Niš
Visiting Places of Worship 1pm on Saturdays (see p154). Road Map D4. Vožda Karađorđa
While Serbia’s churches and Post offices are usually open 7. Tel (018) 521321, 524877.
∑ visitnis.com
mosques are open to the public, from 8am to 7pm on weekdays
all visitors are and 8am to 2pm Novi Sad
expected to be on Saturdays Road Map B2. Trg slobode 3/3.
respectful of (see p156). Not all Tel (021) 421811, 421812,
local customs. museums keep 6617343. ∑ novisad.travel
This means hats the same hours, NTOS
off, no shorts or but they are ∑ serbia.travel
miniskirts and normally open
from 10am to Subotica
sometimes no
Road Map B1. Trg slobode 1.
bare arms in 5pm on week
Tel (024) 670350, 753111.
churches. Some Sign showing opening times at days and closed ∑ visitsubotica.rs
of the country’s Belgrade’s Palace of Princess Ljubica on Mondays.
www.ebook3000.com
150 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Female Travellers
The majority of Serbian men are
extremely respectful towards
women. There are no particular
dangers here for women travel-
ling alone, but sexual harass-
ment is a possibility so the usual
safety precautions should be
observed: travel during the day
whenever possible and don’t
walk in poorly lit streets or parks
at night; stay in control by not Belgrade’s trolleybus no. 22 with automated wheelchair ramps for disabled travellers
drinking to excess in social situ-
ations and refuse drinks from into the country, they will need is a straightforward process for
strangers; avoid overcrowded to produce at the border a wheelchair users. Some of the
public transport and use only translated letter of permission capital’s pedestrian crossings
recommended taxi services (if to travel from the absent parent. have been fitted with sloped
in doubt ask staff in a restaurant kerbs, its large shopping malls
or hotel to book a taxi for you). are equipped with facilities for
Disabled Travellers disabled customers and a num-
Despite the efforts of several ber of attactions have been
Travelling with Children non-governmental organiza- fitted with disabled access
Serbs love children and the tions, local attitudes towards ramps. Belgrade’s trolleybus
country has an abundance disabled people are a long way no. 22 and trams no. 7, 12 and
of parks and playgrounds, so behind those in western Europe. 13 have automated wheelchair
travelling with a young family Disabled Serbians tend to be access ramps with space for one
should be relatively trouble-free. cared for in residential homes wheelchair on board. The driv-
Restaurants can usually provide and institutions, with little effort ers on these lines are trained
high chairs and hotels can to integrate them into the main- to help wheelchair users access
arrange for cots and extra beds stream. This is reflected in the the vehicle. For more informa-
in rooms, but they should be woeful state of facilities around tion about people living with
booked in advance. Be prepared the country – pavements in disabilities in Serbia visit the
for few public toilets other than most cities are uneven, nonexis- website of the Centre for
those in shopping malls to be tent or used as parking spaces; Independent Living of PWDs
equipped with nappy changing public toilets are inaccessible, as (persons with disabilities).
facilities. Supermarkets have a are most cafés and restaurants;
good range of baby food and and only the most expensive
disposable nappies and there hotels can offer anything better Gay and Lesbian
are well-stocked pharmacies in than a ground-floor room. Travellers
towns and cities. Bear in mind That said, getting to Serbia via Threats from homophobic
that if only one parent is the fully accessible facilities at groups in Serbia have led to the
accompanying their children Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Airport cancellation of several Gay Pride
marches; the marches in 2014
and 2015 were only possible
with the protection of hundreds
of riot police supported by
tanks and helicopters. Many
Serbians consider homosexu-
ality to be an aberration – a
view supported by the church –
and there have been numerous
cases of openly gay men being
attacked in the streets. To avoid
the risk of such dangers, same-
sex couples are strongly advised
to abstain from public displays
of affection. Serbia’s LGBT com-
munity keeps a low profile with
a scene that remains deeply
underground, but plenty of
information for gay travellers is
available online at Belgrade
Gay Guide, Gay Serbia Guide
Children enjoying themselves at a fountain in Knez Mihailova, Belgrade and Gaymost.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 151
Visitor photographing the magnificent meanders of the Uvac River (meandri Uvca) in Western Serbia
www.ebook3000.com
152 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Emergency Services taxis, never change money with One of the main buildings of Belgrade’s
Belgrade is patrolled by police strangers who approach you on University Hospital Centre
on foot, in cars, on motorcycles the street and stay in control by
and occasionally on horseback. not drinking to excess. and delays, plus the potentially
Most other cities also have regu Political protests take place high price of emergency medi
lar foot and car patrols, giving from time to time in Belgrade cal evacuation. State hospitals
visitors a good sense of security. and other large cities. Most are tend to be ill maintained due
Serbian police officers are gen peaceful, but have the potential to chronic underfunding, so
erally approachable and will for violence when extremist private clinics are often prefer
usually speak a little English. groups are involved and are able. The Belgrade Emergency
In an emergency dial the all- therefore best avoided. The UK Clinical Centre and University
Europe emergency number Foreign and Commonwealth Children’s Hospital are not far
or the individual fire, police or Office, the US Department from the main railway station,
ambulance numbers. of State and the Australian and just east of them is a 24-
Department of Foreign Affairs Hour Dental Service. Outside
and Trade (see p149) have the the capital, Kragujevac Clinical
most uptodate security advice. Centre, Niš Clinical Centre and
Novi Sad Clinical Centre of
Vojvodina are reliable hospitals.
Medical Treatment
Britain and a number of other
EU countries have reciprocal Pharmacies
healthcare agreements with Wellstocked pharmacies or
Serbia that allow their citizens apoteke can be found in all large
to receive free treatment for towns and cities. Some medica
genuine emergencies. All non tions may be hard to find, so
emergency medical treatment those with specific require
must be paid for, so it is wise to ments or prescriptions should
Tourists shopping for produce at a crowded have a comprehensive travel bring sufficient supplies for the
street market in Serbia health insurance policy in place duration of their trip. Your hotel
before you travel. It should will know the location of the
cover theft, lost luggage, and nearest 24hour pharmacy. Near
Personal Security costs run up by cancellations the National Assembly and the
Despite Serbia being safe to
visit, the usual commonsense
precautions should be taken.
Watch out for pickpockets in
crowded areas, especially at
markets, railway stations, air
ports and on public transport.
Hide bags or highvalue items
in the boot of the car when
parked; luxury vehicles should
be left only in guarded car parks
to prevent them being targeted
by thieves. It is always best to
travel with others in a group if
you are planning to visit remote
areas. Avoid poorly lit areas at
night, only use recommended Serbian ambulance, easily recognized by the red stripes and blue logo
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 153
DIRECTORY
Emergency Services
All-Europe Emergency
Number
Tel 112.
Ambulance
Tel 194.
Fire
Tel 193.
Police
Tel 192.
Farmland and animals in the rural parts of Zlatibor, Western Serbia Medical Treatment
24-Hour Dental Service,
Old Palace is the 24-hour Animals and Insects Vračar, Belgrade
Apoteka Prvi maj, and about By far the worst pests in Serbia City Map E5.
700 m (765 yd) south of it, near are mosquitoes, especially near Kneginje Zorke 15, Belgrade.
the central railway station, is the lakes and rivers. Insect repel- Tel (011) 3402522.
24-hour Apoteka Sveti Sava. lents are available locally. Try to Belgrade Emergency
pick the one with the highest Clinical Centre
DEET content. Beware of street City Map D5.
dogs – they are mostly harmless Pasterova 2, Belgrade.
but can become aggressive in Tel (011) 3618444.
groups. Serbia has a high risk of ∑ kcs.ac.rs
rabies and the disease can be Kragujevac Clinical Centre
transmitted through the saliva Road Map C4. Zmaj Jovina 30,
of an infected animal so it is Kragujevac. Tel (034) 505050.
unwise to stroke or feed stray ∑ kc-kg.rs
dogs. If you do get bitten, seek
medical assistance without any Niš Clinical Centre
delay. In rural areas there is a Road Map D4. Bulevar Dr Zorana
Đinđića 48, Niš. Tel (018) 506906.
danger of tick-borne enceph-
∑ kcnis.rs
Green and white sign with a green cross alitis, spread by tick bites. Simple
advertising an apoteka or pharmacy precautions that can be taken Novi Sad Clinical Centre
against ticks include wearing a of Vojvodina
hat and long trousers tucked Road Map B2. Hajduk Veljkova 1,
General Precautions into socks, applying insect Novi Sad. Tel (021) 4843484.
Tap water in Serbia is generally repellent and having a Ticovac ∑ kcv.rs
safe to drink although there vaccination before travelling. University Children’s
have been occasional issues Hikers should watch out for the Hospital, Belgrade
with drinking water quality, so it venomous long-nosed adder. City Map D5.
is best to stick to bottled water. Tiršova 10, Belgrade.
Visit your doctor or travel clinic Tel (011) 3616061.
at least four weeks before your Unexploded Mines ∑ tirsova.rs/eng
departure to discuss your vac- In the mountainous areas to the
cinations. You will need to be north and east of Kosovo there Pharmacies
inoculated against tetanus and is a danger of mines and other
Apoteka Prvi maj, Belgrade
hepatitis A and should consider unexploded munitions from the City Map D3.
having a rabies vaccination as 1999 conflict in Kosovo and Kralja Milana 9, Belgrade.
Serbia is classed as a high-risk Serbia. Be extremely careful in Tel (011) 3240533.
rabies country. If you plan to these areas and do not stray
visit rural areas, the Ticovac from marked paths and roads. Apoteka Sveti Sava,
vaccine for tick-borne enceph- Local tourist organizations will Belgrade
alitis might also be necessary. be able to provide you with City Map C4.
Apart from this, the worst health up-to-date information. Nemanjina 2, Belgrade.
Tel (011) 2643170.
danger you are probably likely
to come across is excessive pas- General Precautions
sive smoking in public spaces. Narcotics
The latest information regarding Drug possession of any amount Travel Health Pro
health issues can be found is strictly illegal and punishable ∑ travelhealthpro.org.uk
online at Travel Health Pro. by a lengthy prison sentence.
www.ebook3000.com
154 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Changing Money
Panter, Belgrade
City Map E4.
Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 122.
Tel (011) 2459977.
∑ menjacnica-panter.co.rs
VIP, Belgrade
City Map D2. Makedonska 24.
Tel (0) 63273603.
∑ vipsistem.rs
Money Transfers
Western Union
Call centre. Tel (011) 3334999.
∑ transfernovca.rs
A branch of the Hypo Alpe-Adria-Bank, one of several commercial banks in Serbia
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 155
Money Transfers Funds can be collected in dinars Your bank will charge handling
To receive a foreign money from post offices or in euros fees for each transaction; check
transfer in a Serbian bank you from Raiffeisen Bank, UniCredit the cost before you travel. Small
will need to open a Serbian Bank and Komercijalna Bank. towns in remote areas of the
bank account. The funds will country are less likely to be able
take from two to seven days to to accept cards, so it is essential
arrive and fees will be applied at Credit and Debit Cards to carry a cash reserve. Notify
both ends. Western Union is a Visa and Mastercard credit and your bank of your travel plans
more convenient option. Only debit cards are widely accepted before departure to prevent
the sender incurs a fee and the in hotels, petrol stations and them from blocking your card
transfer takes just a few minutes. larger shops and restaurants. when you try to use it abroad.
Banknotes
Serbian dinar banknotes come in nine
denominations. The yellow 10 dinar
note is the smallest, followed by the
green 20 dinar note, violet 50 dinar note,
blue 100 dinar note showing Nikola
Tesla, amber 200 dinar note, green-
yellow 500 dinar note, red 1,000 dinar
note, grey 2,000 dinar note and purple 10 dinars
5,000 dinar note.
20 dinars
50 dinars
100 dinars
200 dinars
500 dinars
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156 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
DIRECTORY
Postal Services
Central Post Office,
Belgrade
City Map D3. Takovska 2.
Tel (011) 3210068. ∑ posta.rs
DHL, Belgrade
City Map D3. Takovska 6.
Tel (011) 3105500. ∑ dhl.rs
FedEx, Belgrade
Flying Cargo Yugoslavia,
Modern Serbian café offering customers free Wi-Fi and Internet access Autoput 22. Tel (011) 3109400.
∑ fedex.com/rs
Internet users should consider hotels, restaurants, bookshops Post Office 2,
buying a local SIM card with a and cafés. Published fortnightly, Belgrade
large data allowance. it carries in-depth business and City Map C4. Savska 2.
political analysis along with Tel (0) 700 100300. ∑ posta.rs
entertainment listings and
Television and Radio lifestyle and cultural features,
TNT, Belgrade
City Map E2. Venizelosova 29.
The state television and radio and is a great way to familiarize
Tel (011) 3332555. ∑ tnt.com
broadcaster, RTS, is very popular, yourself with current affairs
as are the privately owned tele- across Serbia. Cord is a monthly UPS, Belgrade
vision channels Pink and Prva. English-language magazine that Nikola Tesla Airport. Tel (011)
Famed for its role in organizing offers similar content. Both also 2286422. ∑ ups.com
the anti-government demon- have excellent websites that are
strations of the 1990s, B92 is a regularly updated. Belgrade visi- Mobile Phones
popular independent television tors will enjoy the beautifully MTS, Belgrade
and radio outlet. Far less politi- designed BelGuest magazine, City Map D3. Takovska 2.
cally active today, it also has a which offers both print and Tel (0) 800 100100 (within Serbia).
English-language website with online versions. It is published ∑ mts.rs
regularly updated news and quarterly, as are Welcome to
Telenor, Belgrade
entertainment information. Belgrade, available at National
City Map C2.
Tourism Organisation of Serbia Knez Mihailova 24. Tel (0) 639000.
centres, and Belgrade In Your ∑ telenor.rs
Newspapers and Pocket. The latter series also has
Magazines editions of other Serbian cities VIP, Belgrade
Although it ceased to exist as as well as a very good website. City Map C2.
a national news agency in 2015, Yellow Cab is in Serbian, but has Knez Mihailova 9. Tel (0) 601234
Tanjug still publishes its stories up-to-date Belgrade listings. (only within Serbia).
∑ vipmobile.rs
online in English. The English- Foreign magazines and news-
language Belgrade Insight is a papers are usually available in Television and Radio
free newspaper distributed to Serbia’s high-end hotels.
B92
∑ b92.net
Useful Dialling Information
• To call Serbia from abroad, dial Kuršumlija 27; Smederevo 26; Newspapers and
the international access code Subotica 24; Valjevo 14; Vranje Magazines
of the country you are in 17; Vršac, Bela Crkva 13; Zaječar,
Belgrade Insight
(usually 00), then Serbia’s coun- Knjaževac, Negotin 19.
∑ belgradeinsight.com
try code 381, the city code, and • Mobile phone numbers usually
finally the phone number. have 9 or 10 digits always start- Belgrade In Your Pocket
• To make a domestic long- ing with 06, while landline ∑ inyourpocket.com
distance call in Serbia, dial 0 numbers have 6 to 8 digits and
BelGuest
followed by the city code and a 2- or 3-digit city code.
∑ belguest.rs
phone number. • To make an international call
• Serbian city codes: Belgrade from Serbia, dial 00 (note that Cord
11; Niš 18; Novi Sad, Sremski it is no longer 99), followed by ∑ cordmagazine.com
Karlovci 21; Despotovac 35; the country code, city code,
Novi Pazar 20; Kragujevac, and phone number. Tanjug
∑ tanjug.rs
Topola, Aranđelovac 34; Pirot • Useful country codes: UK 44;
10; Kraljevo 36; Kruševac 37; USA and Canada 1; Australia Yellow Cab
Sremska Mitrovica 22; Užice 31; 61; New Zealand 64. ∑ yc.rs
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158 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
The easiest way to get to Serbia is to fly and Austrian Airlines, fly direct to Belgrade,
directly to the capital Belgrade. Air Serbia, the which is also serviced by the budget airlines
country’s flag carrier, has regular direct and Wizzair, Eurowings and easyJet. Serbia’s many
indirect flights from many European destina land border crossings facilitate entry
tions as well as from parts of the Middle East, by car or bus from all directions, the most
Asia and Australia. Several major European popular being the E70 motorway route
carriers, including Lufthansa, Alitalia, Swiss from Croatia and the E75 from Hungary.
Arriving by Air
Visitors who fly into Serbia will
usually arrive at Terminal 2 of
Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Airport.
Air Serbia has direct flights to
and from most European capi
tals and serves destinations as
far afield as Beijing and Sydney
with indirect flights. It has
recently started flights from
New York to Belgrade, and
American visitors can also fly
in via European hubs such as
London or Paris. With the excep Cars on a Serbian motorway, with the buildings of Belgrade in the distance
tion of British Airways, almost
all the major European airlines,
including Lufthansa, Alitalia, Getting from the Airport Tickets from the driver cost 150
Swissair and Austrian Airlines, to the City dinars. A large number of car
offer direct flights to Belgrade. For taxis into Belgrade and rental agencies, including Avis,
Wizzair offers budget flights beyond, head to the taxi infor Hertz, Europcar and Budget,
to Belgrade from London, Paris, mation desk in the baggage have their offices in the arrivals
Stockholm, Dortmund and reclaim area where prepaid area of Terminal 2 at the airport.
other EU cities. Eurowings has vouchers can be purchased for
cutprice flights to Belgrade your journey. Taxis to the centre
from Stuttgart and easyJet flies of Belgrade cost between 1,400 Arriving by Boat
to Belgrade from Geneva. and 1,800 dinars for up to four River cruisers arriving in the
Located 18 km (11 miles) west passengers with luggage. capital dock at the passenger
of Belgrade, the modern Nikola Minibuses to Trg Slavija in the terminal on the Sava below
Tesla Airport comes complete centre leave every 30 minutes Kalemegdan (see pp52–3).
with restaurants, shops, bureaux from outside the airport, stop Services include a visitor infor
de change, ATMs and free WiFi ping at several points; tickets mation centre, restaurants, gift
(log on to the UniFi network from the driver cost 300 dinars. shops, ATMs and bureaux de
using the password “unifi”). The cheapest option is local bus change. Most cruise passengers
The airport also has a Visitor no. 72, leaving every 40 minutes join guided sightseeing tours,
Information Centre that is from outside the terminal to but it is also possible to visit the
open every day until 9.30pm. Zeleni venac in the city centre. city by foot or taxi from here.
Cruisers docked at the marinas on the river below Belgrade’s imposing Kalemegdan Fortress
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 159
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Nikola Tesla Airport Hertz Arriving by Bus
Belgrade. Tel (011) Belgrade Airport.
Air Serbia 2094000. ∑ beg.aero Tel (011) 2286017. Belgrade Central
City Map D3. Bul. kralja
∑ hertz.rs
Bus Station
Aleksandra 17, Belgrade. Swissair City Map B3.
Tel (011) 3112123. Call centre only. Tel (011) Železnička 4. Tel (011)
3030140. ∑ swiss.com
Arriving by Boat
∑ airserbia.com 2636299. ∑ bas.rs
Alitalia Visitor Information Nautec Marina Lasta, Belgrade
Call centre only. Tel (011) Centre Danube River, City Map B3.
3245000. ∑ alitalia.com Nikola Tesla Airport. Kej oslobođenja 3a, Železnička 2. Tel (011)
Tel (011) 2097828. Zemun, Belgrade. 3348555, 3402300.
Austrian Airlines Tel (011) 3077792.
Call centre only. Wizzair ∑ lasta.rs
∑ nautec.co.rs
Tel (011) 3248077. Call centre only.
∑ austrian.com Tel (0) 900 232321 (within Nautilus Marina Arriving by Train
Serbia). ∑ wizzair.com Danube River,
easyJet Belgrade Central
Višnjička 115a, Railway Station
Call centre only. Getting from the Ada Huja, Belgrade. City Map C3.
Tel (011) 2094863. Airport to the City
∑ easyjet.com
Tel (0) 669251630. Glavna železnička stanica.
Avis ∑ nautilusmarina.rs Tel (011) 3602899.
Eurowings ∑ serbianrailways.com
Belgrade Airport. Tel (011) The Danube
Call centre only.
2097062. ∑ avis.rs ∑ dunav-info.org
Tel (011) 2094863. Serbian Railways
∑ eurowings.com Budget Vidra Marina ∑ serbianrailways.com
Belgrade Airport. Tel (011) Sava River, Omladinskih
Lufthansa Visitor Information
2286361. ∑ budget.rs brigada bb, Blok 70a,
City Map C3. Centre
Terazije 3/VII, Belgrade. Europcar New Belgrade. City Map C3. Belgrade
Tel (011) 3034389. Belgrade Airport. Tel (011) Tel (0) 656811022. Central Railway Station.
∑ lufthansa.com 228640. ∑ europcar.rs ∑ marinavidra.com Tel (011) 3612732.
www.ebook3000.com
160 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Buses Station travels to Zemun and from the driver cost 150 dinars
Belgrade has an extensive bus no. 72 goes to the airport from for trips within the city centre.
network operated by Lasta in Zeleni venac. Smartphone users Visitors are likely to make most
the suburbs and GSP Beograd can download the PlanPlus or use of the A1 line, which runs
in town. Services run from 4am BeoGSP apps to find the fastest between Nikola Tesla Airport
to midnight every day, while way around the city using only and Trg Slavija every 30 minutes;
limited night bus services from public transport. tickets cost 300 dinars from the
Republic Square driver (see p158).
(Trg republike)
continue until Minibuses
around 3am. Belgrade has nine Trams and Trolleybuses
Single tickets public and seve Trams were first introduced to
can be bought ral private mini Belgrade in the late 19th cen
from the driver bus lines. Express tury. Today there are 11 tram
for 150 dinars, Belgrade’s BusPlus minibuses are air lines that run until midnight
but it is cheaper plastic travelcard conditioned and every day. They use the same
to opt for a paper more comfort ticket pricing system as the city
BusPlus travelcard sold for 40 able and have fewer stops than buses. The most useful trams for
dinars at news kiosks through regular buses. Most stops do visitors are nos. 2, 11 and 13,
out the city. These can be not show the route and travel which connect the Old Town
charged with up to 500 dinars lers must wait for the minibus with the central bus and railway
credit and are valid for three to arrive to discover the route. stations. Tram no. 2 is famous
months. A trip lasting up to They run until midnight from for its sightseeing circular route,
90 minutes with an unlimited Monday to Saturday and tickets known as krug dvojke, which
number of rides costs 89 dinars.
Those planning on staying
longer can buy a BusPlus plastic
travelcard for 250 dinars, which
has no limit to the number of
times it can be charged and
is valid for three years. Tickets
for night buses are 150 dinars
for Zone 1; these can only be
purchased from the bus driver.
Travelcards must be swiped
across a card reader upon
entering a bus. It is also possible
to use a plastic BusPlus card
with adequate credit to pay for
a group travelling together by
selecting “group ticket” on the
card reader and keying in the
number of travellers.
Useful bus routes from the
central Studentski trg include
no. 31 to St Sava and no. 41 to
the House of Flowers. Bus no. 83
from Belgrade’s Central Bus Belgrade tram no. 2, well known for its circular route passing many key sights
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 161
DIRECTORY
Buses
BusPlus
Tel (011) 7155155.
GSP Beograd, Belgrade
City Map D1. Kneginje Ljubice
29. Tel (011) 3664000. ∑ gsp.rs
Lasta, Belgrade
City Map B3. Železnička 2.
Tel (011) 3348555, 3402300.
∑ lasta.rs
Taxis
Beogradski Taxi, Belgrade
Red trolleybuses powered by electricity running on fixed routes along Belgrade streets Tel (011) 2099920.
∑ beogradski-taxi.com
passes through much of the taxi in a nearby street or ask the
Beotaxi, Belgrade
Old Town and central Belgrade. railway station visitor informa-
Tel (011) 2415555.
The seven trolleybus lines are tion centre to order one for you.
∑ radiobeotaxi.co.rs
powered by overhead electric Use the taxi booking service
cables and run along fixed (see p158) from the international Lux Taxi, Belgrade
routes like ordinary buses. Ticket airport to the centre when you Tel (011) 3033123. ∑ luxtaxi.rs
prices are the same as for buses. arrive and ask your hotel recep- Pink Taxi, Belgrade
Trams and trolleybuses are both tionist to book you a taxi to the Tel (011) 19803. ∑ pinktaxi.info
operated by GSP Beograd. airport upon departure. Pink,
Lux, Beotaxi and Beogradski Cycling
are reliable taxi companies.
iBikeBelgrade, Belgrade
City Map B3. Braće Krsmanović 5.
Cycling Tel (0) 669008386.
∑ ibikebelgrade.com
Cycling is not recommended in
the Old Town as the streets are
narrow and often jammed with of the Danube River and runs
cars that pay scant attention to south past the confluence
cyclists. New Belgrade, with its of the Sava and the Danube
broad streets, is more appealing, towards Blok 45, a residential
but the city’s three purpose- district on the Sava. Cycle maps
Easily recognizable blue oval roof plate built cycle routes are by far the are available from visitor infor-
of an officially registered Belgrade taxi safest, most attractive options. mation centres and bikes can
One route follows the east be hired at Ada Ciganlija, Dorćol
bank of the Sava River from and Hotel Jugoslavija.
Taxis Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija where iBikeBelgrade run various
If you follow a few simple rules it joins a second route that scheduled daily tours of the city
to avoid being ripped off, taxis loops around the island’s lake. with English-speaking guides.
can be an efficient and relatively The third route starts from Hotel They also offer private group
inexpensive way to get around Jugoslavija on the west bank and individual cycling tours.
Belgrade – short city journeys
are likely to cost between 300
and 500 dinars. Make sure you
use only officially registered
taxis, recognizable by the blue
oval registration plate that is
mounted on the roof. These
taxis are all metered and charge
a standard rate. Always ensure
that the meter is running and
never agree to a fixed price
offered in advance by the driver.
To reduce the risk of being
cheated, avoid taxis waiting
outside the bus and railway
stations; instead flag down a Group of visitors on an iBikeBelgrade cycling tour of the city
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162 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Train travelling along the Šargan Eight narrow-gauge line from Mokra Gora station, Western Serbia
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 163
DIRECTORY
Travelling by Bus
Lasta, Belgrade
City Map B3. Železnička 2.
Tel (011) 3348555, 3402300.
∑ lasta.rs
Polazak
∑ polazak.com
Serbian Railways
∑ serbianrailways.com
Cycling
EuroVelo
∑ eurovelo.com
Cyclist tackling a hilly patch on the Serbian section of EuroVelo Route 6
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164 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Road
In terms of independence and convenience, you will see far
more of Serbia by car than by any other method of touring.
Car hire is easy to arrange or you can bring your own vehicle.
Motorways link Subotica in the north to Novi Sad, Belgrade,
Niš and the Macedonian border, and Belgrade to the Croatian
border; the rest of the country is covered by A and B roads
and the occasional gravel track. Rural lanes are often littered
with potholes and blocked by tractors and other slow-moving
agricultural vehicles, so cautious driving is essential. Satellite
navigation can be a great help, but keep a traditional paper
road map within reach for when the system is unable to A reflective triangle, first-aid kit and torch,
distinguish between a B road and a rutted forestry track. required by law in vehicles in Serbia
Large petrol station along a Serbian motorway, with fuel prices displayed clearly and a small shop for essentials
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 165
Serbian motorway displaying large, clear signage indicating motorway numbers, destinations, road rules and speed limits
LPG (autogas) and unleaded per cent – be aware that this is Getting Around
petrol and diesel is sold every the equivalent of just one glass Motorways and main roads are
where. Most large petrol of wine or one glass of beer. For well marked with signposts, but
stations accept card payments. motorcyclists and novice drivers minor roads in rural areas often
this limit is 0 per cent. Children have none, so a good satellite
under the age of 12 and those navigation system or paper map
Emergencies travellers who are visibly under is essential. If in doubt ask locals
If you are involved in a road the influence of alcohol are not for directions. Most roads are
accident ask a local to call the allowed to sit in the front. On free to use, but there are tolls on
Traffic Police or dial the all- motorcycles, helmets are com some motorways, including the
Europe emergency number pulsory for all drivers and their A1/E75 from Subotica to Novi
to request police and medical pillion passengers. Sad, Belgrade and Niš, and from
assistance if necessary. Hire car Niš to Leskovac. The toll can be
breakdowns should be dealt paid in euros, dinars or by credit
with by the rental company; if Car Repair Garages or debit card (see p159). Note
your own vehicle has problems Auto servisi or car repair garages that foreignregistered cars are
contact AMSS, Serbia's roadside are easy to find in Serbia and charged a different toll fee.
assistance association. can handle basic repairs such
as punctures and flat batteries. DIRECTORY
Few of the smaller places will
Rules of the Road have the computer technology Car Rental
At unmarked crossings give way required to deal with newer
Avis, Belgrade
to vehicles coming on the right. vehicle models so it is always Pivljanina Baje 43/6, Dedinje.
Your car’s side lights or dipped advisable to visit the main Tel (011) 3676644. ∑ avis.rs
headlights must be used during dealer for more complex issues.
the day and the use of seatbelts Budget, Belgrade
is compulsory. Using a mobile Omladinskih brigada 90a, Zemun.
phone while driving is forbid Tel (011) 3113050. ∑ budget.rs
den. If drivers are flashed by Hertz, Belgrade
vehicles travelling in the oppo City Map A3. Vladimira Popovića
site direction it means that there 6. Tel (011) 2028200. ∑ hertz.rs
is either a police speed trap or a
hazard on the road ahead. Emergencies
The speed limit is 120 kmph All-Europe Emergency
(75 mph) on motorways, 100 Number
kmph (62 mph) on main roads Tel 112.
and 50 kmph (31 mph) in built
up areas. The traffic police will AMSS
not hesitate to issue onthe Tel (011) 1987.
∑ www.amss.org.rs
spot fines to any driver caught
speeding. The permissible blood Traffic Police
alcohol content for drivers is like Vehicle parked outside a Serbian Tel 192.
most European countries at 0.03 mechanic’s shop at an auto servis
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166 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Birds 20–21, 145 Caves (cont.)
main entries Bireš, Mihal 98 Rajkova 104, 108
Black Wave cinema 25 Ravništarka 108
A Boats 158–9 Resavska 13, 68
Abstract Expressionism 25 Book shops 141 Risovača (Aranđelovac) 75
Accommodation 124–9 Borač 74 Stopića 86
see also Hotels Bosnia and Herzegovina 33, 36, 37 Central Serbia 65–75
Ada Bridge (Belgrade) 27 Bosnian War (1992–95) 37 the Flavours of Serbia 133
Ada Ciganlija (Belgrade) 12, 43, 44, 59 Branković, Ðurađ 65, 68, 99 hotels 127
Addresses, street names 27 Broz, Jovanka 58 Manasija Monastery 70–71
Admission fees 149 Brutalism 27 map 66–7
Air travel 158, 159 Budget accommodation 125 restaurants 135–6
Alcohol Bugarski, Alexander 26 travel 66
customs information 148 Bukovo Monastery 108 Ceremošnja Cave 108
driving regulations 165 Bulgaria 35 Četniks 36
Alexander II (Karađorđević), Crown Bureaux de change 154 Chalupova, Zuzana 16, 17
Prince 59 Burek Days (Niš) 30, 132 Charles I, King of Hungary 96
Alexander I Karađorđević, King 35, 51, Buses 159, 160, 161, 162, 163 Charles VI, Emperor 52
59, 92 Byzantine art and architecture 18, 24, Children 150
Alexander I Obrenović, King 54 26, 54, 59, 68, 97, 113, 116, 120 in hotels 124
Aleksić, Dragan 25 Byzantine Empire 33, 34, 80, 96, 101, 120 in restaurants 130
Alexander Nevsky, St 50–51 theatre 142, 143
Ali Paša, Grand Vizier 52 C Christmas 18, 31
Altun-alem Mosque (Novi Pazar) 23 Canyoning 144, 145 Churches see Cathedrals and churches
Amidža’s Mansion (Kragujevac) 74 Caričin Grad 113, 120 Cinema see Film
Animals Carpathians 14, 15 City Hall (Subotica) 27, 98
safety 153 Cars 164–5 City Museums
see also Wildlife Automobile Museum (Belgrade) 12, City Museum (Knjaževac) 109
Antić, Ivan 27, 58 54 City Museum (Petrovaradin Fortress,
Apartment hotels 124 driving to Serbia 159, 164 Novi Sad) 95
Aranđelovac 75 emergencies 165 City Museum (Sremski Karlovci) 96
hotels 127 fuel 164–5 City Museum (Subotica) 98
restaurants 135 rental 164, 165 City Museum (Vršac) 99
Architecture 26–7 repairs 165 Pasha’s Residence (Vranje) 121
Armistice Day 31 rules of the road 165 see also Museums and galleries
Art 24–5 see also Tours Climate 29, 148
see also Museums and galleries Castles see Fortresses Clothes
Art Nouveau 27 Cathedrals and churches 22–3, 149 in churches and mosques 149
Subotica 27, 41, 89, 98 Cathedral Church of St Michael what to take 148
Arts and crafts see Crafts (Belgrade) 43, 46, 48 Coins 155
ATMs 154 Cathedral of St George (Novi Sad) Communications 156–7
Automobile Museum (Belgrade) 12, 54 89, 92 Communist Party 18–19, 36
Autumn in Serbia 30 Cathedral of St Nicholas (Sremski Constantine the Great, Emperor 32,
Avramović, Dimitrije 48 Karlovci) 91, 96 113, 116, 117
Cathedral of St Nicholas (Vršac) 89, Constantine the Philosopher 70
B 99 Constantinople School, icons 22
Babin Zub Ski Resort 121 Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Niš) Constructivism 25
Bač 89, 90, 96 117 Contemporary art 25
Bačka Bishop’s Palace (Novi Sad) 89, 92 Chapel of St Petka (Belgrade) 53 Crafts shops 140–41
Bajrakli Mosque (Belgrade) 50 Church of St Alexander Nevsky Credit cards 155
Balkan League 35 (Belgrade) 50–51 in restaurants 131
Balkan Wars 35 Church of St Mark (Belgrade) 54 in shops 140
Ballet 142, 143 Church of St Nicholas (Belgrade) 58 Crime 152
Banking 154–5 Church of the Holy Trinity (Sremski Crna Reka Monastery 23, 79, 83
Banknotes 155 Karlovci) 91, 96 Croatia 36, 37
Baroque art 18, 25 Church of the Name of Mary (Novi Croatian Peasant Party 35
Baumhorn, Lipot 93 Sad) 89 Ćuprija
Bela Crkva 99 Church of the Virgin Mary (Studenica hotels 127
festivals 28 Monastery) 26 Currency 154–5
hotels 128 Holy Trinity Church (Kraljevo) 81 see also Credit cards; Debit cards
Belgrade 10, 43–63 Holy Trinity Cathedral (Vranje) 121 Customs information 148
climate 29 Karađorđe Mausoleum Church of Cycling 144, 161, 163
festivals 17, 28–31 St George (Topola) 11, 65, 66, 75 Belgrade 44, 59, 160, 161
hotels 126–7 Lazarica Church (Kruševac) 65, 69 Danube Cycling Route 104
Kalemegdan Fortress 52–3 Old Church (Negotin) 108 EuroVelo 144, 145, 163
map, city 44–5 St George’s Church (Petrovaradin) 94 Kraljevo 81
map, street finder 60–63 St Nicholas Church (Novi Sad) 92–3 Novi Sad 93
Old Town: Street-by-Street map 46–7 St Petka’s Church (Vranje) 121 Palić 98
restaurants 134–5 St Sava’s Church (Belgrade) 8–9 Sokobanja 109
street names 27 Sts Peter and Paul (Novi Pazar) 23, Tara National Park 87
travel 44, 160–61 24, 82 Tour de Serbie 28
Two days in Belgrade 12 Temple of St Sava (Belgrade) 23, 55
Belgrade, Siege of (1456) 34 see also Monasteries
D
Berlin, Congress of (1878) 34 Caves 144, 145 Dance 142, 143
Bicycles see Cycling Ceremošnja 108 festivals 28, 30
GENERAL INDEX 167
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168 GENERAL INDEX
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170 GENERAL INDEX
Parks and gardens Religion (cont.) Royal Palaces (Belgrade) 12, 56–7, 59
Topčider Park (Belgrade) 59 see also Cathedrals and churches; Rudno
see also National parks, nature parks Monasteries; Mosques; Synagogues hotels 127
and special nature reserves Renting cars 164, 165 Rural tourism 125, 145
Pasha’s Residence (Vranje) 121 Republic Square (Belgrade) 51
Passports 148, 149 Republika Srpska 37 S
Patriarch’s Palace (Sremski Karlovci) 96 Resavska Cave 13, 68 Safety 148, 149, 152–3
Paul, Prince Regent 36, 59 Responsible travel 149 St George’s Church (Petrovaradin) 94
Personal security 152–3 Restaurants 130–39 St John the Baptist 24
Peter I (Karađorđević), King 27, 75 Belgrade 134–5 St Nicholas 22
Peter II Karađorđević, King 36 bills and tipping 131 St Nicholas Church (Novi Sad) 92–3
Peter of Koriša, St 83 Central Serbia 135–6 St Petka’s Church (Vranje) 121
Petka, St 53 children in 130 St Sava’s Church (Belgrade) 8–9
Petković, Bratislav 54 Eastern Serbia 138–9 St Sava’s Day 31
Petrol 164–5 the Flavours of Serbia 132–3 St Trifun 18
Petrovaradin Fortress 11, 89, 94–5 menus 130 Saints 22
Petrović, Dimitrije 48 Northern Serbia 137–8 Sts Peter and Paul Church (Novi Pazar)
Petrović, Ðorđe see Karađorđe opening hours 130 23, 24, 82
Petrović, Nadežda 25 reservations 130 Sarajevo, Siege of (1992–96) 37
Pharmacies 152–3 smoking in 131 Šargan Eight 77, 87
Pharmacy on the Steps (Vršac) 99 Southern Serbia 139 Sarrabezolles, Carlo 46
Photography 151 vegetarians and vegans 131 Sava, St 18, 22, 33
Pieta (Vozarević) 25 Western Serbia 136–7 Mileševa Monastery 83
Pirot 120–21 see also Food and drink relics 99
festivals 29 Rhodope Mountains 14, 15 St Sava’s Day 31
hotels 129 Riding 145 Temple of St Sava (Belgrade) 55
restaurants 139 Risovača Cave (Aranđelovac) 75 Sava River 14, 15, 31, 38–9, 40, 43, 44,
Planetarium Rivers 21, 133, 143 46, 59, 79, 89, 90, 158, 161
Belgrade 52 beaches 40, 43, 59 Serbian Orthodox Church 18, 22–3
Play of the Black Horses (Rosandić) 44 Beli Timok 41, 102 festivals 28, 31
Pobednik (Meštrović) 52 confluence of Danube and Sava 12, history 33
Poganovo Monastery 4, 112, 113, 115, 14, 43, 52, 58, 161 Serbian Uprisings (1804, 1815) 34, 35,
121, 139 Crna Reka 83 55, 59, 65, 74, 75, 80, 81, 108, 117
Police 148, 152, 165 Crni Timok 103 Serbo-Byzantine architecture 26
Popović, Svetozar and Vidosava 109 Danube 10, 14, 15, 21, 33, 43, 65, 89, Shopping 140–41
Post-war art 25 90, 93, 94, 100, 101, 102, 103,104–5, Sinan Paša 55, 99
Postal services 156, 157 106–7, 145, 159, 161 Sinđelić, Stevan 117
Požarevac Drina 15, 40, 78 Sirmium 89, 96
festivals 30 festivals 28, 29 Sirogojno 77, 86
Prijepolje 83 Great Morava 15, 41, 65, 66, 67 festivals 29
hotels 127 Ibar 15, 29, 40, 77, 78, 79, 81, 144, 145 hotels 127
restaurants 137 Karas 21 restaurants 137
Prijepolje Museum 83 kayaking and rafting 77, 81, 83, 145 Skardalija (Belgrade) 10, 12, 51
Prince Miloš Street (Belgrade) 54–5 Kolubara 79, 80 Skiing 145
Princip, Gavrilo 35 Lim 77, 78, 83 Babin Zub Ski Resort 121
Prolom Banja 11, 13, 113, 120 Moravica 103, 109 Kopaonik 82
hotels 129 Nišava 41, 113, 115, 116 Tornik Ski Centre 86
restaurants 139 Raška 82, 83 Skull Tower (Niš) 11, 117
Public holidays 31 Resava 67, 70 Slava 18, 22, 132, 137
Public toilets 151 Sava 14, 15, 31, 38–9, 40, 43, 44, 46, Šljivovica (plum brandy) 17, 141
Pustinja Monastery 78, 80 59, 79, 89, 90, 158, 161 Slovenia 37
South Morava 15, 41, 66, 113, 114, 121 Small Art Gallery (Kragujevac) 74
R Studenica 81 Smederevo 12, 65, 68
Rabies 153 Svrljiški Timok 109 festivals 30
Radan, Mount 41 Tamis 15, 21, 91 hotels 127
Radio 157 Timok 15, 103 restaurants 136
Rafting 145 Tisa 15, 40, 89, 91 Smederevo Fortress 11, 12–13, 34, 65,
Raichle Mansion (Subotica) 88, 98 travel 158–9, 161 67
Railways see Trains Uvac 15, 40, 78, 151 Smederevo Museum (Smederevo) 68
Rainfall 29 West Morava 15, 19, 40, 66, 67, 79, 80 Smoking 151
Rajkova Cave 104, 108 Rock climbing 144, 145 in restaurants 131
Rakia (fruit brandy) 141 Rock music 143 Social Realism 18–19, 25, 27
Rákóczi 96 Roksandić, Simeon Sokobanja 18, 101, 109
Rakovac Monastery 97 Struggle 52 hotels 129
Ram Fortress 101, 104 Roman Catholic Church 18, 23 restaurants 139
restaurants 138–9 Roman Empire 33, 54, 68, 82, 89, 92, Sokograd Fortress 102
Ras Museum (Novi Pazar) 82 114, 120 Sopoćani Monastery 24, 40, 49, 77, 79,
Raška School 18, 26, 77, 81, 120 Along the Danube 104–5 83
Raspopović, Ivanka 27, 58 Caričin Grad 120 Sokol, Jan 98
Ravanica Monastery 18, 22, 26, 48, 65, Diana Roman Fort 101, 103, 105 Southern Serbia 113–21
67, 69, 149 Felix Romuliana (Gamzigrad) 101, the Flavours of Serbia 132
Ravništarka Cave 108 108, 110–11 hotels 129
Realism 25 Mediana (Niš) 113, 116, 117 map 114–15
Red Cross Camp Museum (Niš) 116 Sirmium 89, 96 Niš 116–17
Registration, with police 148 Viminacium 13, 101, 102, 104 restaurants 139
Religion 18 Romania 35 travel 114
Islam 23, 34, 77 Rosandić, Toma Souvenir shops 140–41
Serbian Orthodox Church 18, 22–3 Play of the Black Horses 44 Spajići see Lakes
GENERAL INDEX 171
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172 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Antic 95cr; Vladimir Babic 12b; Banepetkovic 59tl; Sergiy
people whose help and assistance contributed to the Beketov 43b; Boggy 104c; Nadezhda Bolotina 41tl;
preparation of this book. Borisb17 46cb; Irina Brinza 132cb; Ioan Florin Cnejevici 5cr;
Dedekk 20crb; Djama86 132crb; Dobok81 82tl; Draghicich
Author 141cb; Electropower 42, 46cla; Elenathewise 66bl; Elena
Matt Willis is a seasoned travel guide author who wrote Elisseeva 158b; Geza Farkas 65b; Fotosergio 132clb;
extensively about Serbia’s neighbours – Bulgaria, Bosnia Gagyeos 52tr; Vladislav Gajic 84-5; Hakiagena 33br; Isselee
and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Romania for DK’s 20cl, 97tr; Jevtic 21cl, 21cr; Khaleesii 70clb; Lunja87 53br;
Eyewitness Travel Guides – before finally tackling Serbia Maeklong 21br; Sasa Maricic 13l; Marinela84 13b; Pavle
itself. Matt has also authored the DK Top 10 guides to Marjanovic, 32, 41cra; Mikhail Markovskiy 88; Stanisa
Moscow and to Southwest Turkey, updated the Rough Martinovic 94tr; Masezdromaderi 94cla; Aleksandar
Guide to Bulgaria and the Rough Guide to Europe on a Mijatovic 4tr, 35bl; Mikelane45 21tr; Miroslav110 97cl;
Budget, and spent months on the Trans-Siberian railway as Moonru 38-9; Guido Nardacci 20br; Natureimmortal 21crb;
part of his research for the DK Eyewitness Guide to Russia. Nomadbeg 106-7; Ntcandrej 92br; Nyiragongo70 1;
Alexander Podshivalov 20cr; Porojnicu 100; Rasica 31t;
Fact Checker Polina Ryazantseva 130br; Saiko3p 52br; Sarah2 20bl;
National Tourism Organisation of Serbia Selena 97crb; Valery Shanin 34crb; Andrey Shevchenko
(Zorica Jovanov, Smiljana Novičić, Ivan Vuković) 117tl; Slasta20 97cra, 105t; Snowyns 89b, 93tl; Soloway
163br; Wang Song 143tc; Nikolai Sorokin 146-7; Darko
Proofreader Sreckovic 125br; Stanisa 95bl, 118-9; Stoyanh112; Tijanaa
Debra Wolter 44bl; Vigortakeda 34clb; Vladimirnenezic 10cla, 60b;
Weblogiq 20clb; Yvdavyd 132cr; Zoransimin 10b, 90bl.
Indexer
Hilary Bird Dusan Maletic: maletic.org/Mihailo Maletic 22-3c.
145cl, 148cra, 149tc, 151t, 162br; Branko Jovanović 5t, 13t, Square Nine: 127tl.
17b, 20cla, 21cra, 21clb, 23tr, 23br, 25cra, 25cl, 30tl, 41cr,
47br, 47cr, 48tr, 48bl, 49tr, 49b, 50br, 52ca, 53tl, 55br, 55cl, Vila Delux Negotin: 129clb.
58br, 70tr, 71tl, 79tr, 86tl, 94crb, 95tl, 102tr, 110tr, 110cla,
110br, 111tl, 111bl, 111cra, 130cla, 131tl, 131b, 132tr, Zelengora: 136bl.
132cla, 132bc, 132br, 132r, 133tl, 133bl, 133clb, 133cr, 137tr,
140ca, 140br, 141t, 149bc, 150tr, 152tr, 152br, 152cl, 153tl, Front Endpaper
153cl, 154tr, 154bl, 155 (all), 156bl, 156cr, 157tl, 158cra, Dreamstime.com: Leonid Andronov Lc; Mikhail
159tl, 160tr, 160c,160br, 161tl, 161br, 162tr, 163tl, 164cl, Markovskiy Lt; Porojnicu Rc; Stoyanh Rb.
164b, 165t, 165bc; Milan Kopčok 20tr; Milos Milenković National Tourism Organisation of Serbia: Dragan Bosnic
144cla, 150bl. Lb, Rt.
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174 PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book
Serbian is one of the only European languages linguist Ljudevit Gaj (1809–72) in 1830. In this
with complete digraphia, using both Cyrillic and guide, all Serbian words and names of people,
Latin scripts. The Serbian Cyrillic alphabet was places and streets have been written using
standardized by Serbian philologist and linguist the Latin script. For some names, where a well-
Vuk Karadžić (1787–1864) in 1814, who based it known English form exists, this has been used.
on phonemic principles. He also wrote the first In particular, names of Serbian rulers are given
Serbian dictionary. The Latin alphabet for Serbo- in their anglicized form – hence, Peter (not Petar),
Croatian languages was devised by Croatian Paul (not Pavle) and Alexander (not Aleksandar).
Communication Essentials
Guidelines for Pronunciation Yes Da da
The Serbian alphabet has 30 letters, whose order varies in the No Ne ne
Latin and Cyrillic scripts. The table below lists the alphabet in Please (offering) Izvolite eezvoleete
the Cyrillic order, with the uppercase and lowercase forms of Please (asking) Molim moleem
each Cyrillic character and its Serbian Latin equivalent. The Thank you Hvala hvala
right-hand column of the table indicates how Cyrillic letters No, thank you Ne, hvala ne, hvala
are pronounced by comparing them to sounds in English Excuse me, please Izvinite, molim Vas eezveenite, moleem vas
words. Exact transliterations are generally not possible as Hello Zdravo zdravo
Serbian contains certain distinctions and sounds not found in Goodbye Doviđenja doveedyenya
English. On the following pages, the English word or phrase is Good morning Dobro jutro dobro yootro
given in the left-hand column, with the Serbian in the middle Good afternoon Dobar dan dobar dan
column. The right-hand column provides a literal system of Good evening Dobro veče dobro veche
pronunciation. Stress generally falls on the first syllable, but Good night Laku noć laku notch
when words have a prefix, stress is on the middle syllable. Here Ovde ovde
The last syllable is never stressed. Because of the existence There Tamo tamo
of genders in Serbian, in a few cases both the masculine Who? Ko? ko?
and feminine forms of a phrase are given. What? Šta? shta?
When? Kad? kad?
Cyrillic Latin English Where? Gde? gde?
Аа Aa car Why? Zašto? zashto?
Бб Bb boy How? Kako? kako?
Вв Vv verb
Гг Gg girl Useful Phrases
Дд Dd dog How are you? Kako ste? kako ste?
Ђђ Đđ jam Very well, Dobro, hvala dobro, hvala
Ее Ee let, egg thank you
Жж Žž pleasure, vision Pleased to Drago mi je da smo drago mee ye da smo
Зз Zz zoo meet you se upoznali se upoznalee
Ии Ii free See you soon Vidimo se uskoro veedeemo se uskoro
Јј Jj yes That’s fine To je u redu to ye u redoo
Кк Kk king Do you speak Govorite li govoreete lee
Лл Ll like English? engleski? engleskee?
Љљ Lj lj million I don’t speak Ne govorim ne govoreem
Мм Mm man Serbian srpski srpskee
Нн Nn nest Ne razumem
I don’t understand ne razoomem
Њњ Nj nj canyon
Could you speak Možete li molim mozhete lee moleem
Оо Oo thought
slowly please? Vas govoriti vas govoreetee
Пп Pp pack
sporije? sporeeye?
Рр Rr rat (rolling r)
I’m sorry Žao mi je zhao mee ye
Сс Ss sand
Can you help me? Možete li mi mozhete lee mee
Тт Tt time
pomoći? pomotchee?
Ћћ Ćć future (tch)
I have... Imam... eemam...
Уу Uu boot
a pain bol bol
Фф Ff father
Хх Hh loch, hat a stomach ache bolove u stomaku bolove oo stomakoo
Цц Cc cats a headache glavobolja glavobolya
Чч Čč church a fever groznica grozneetsa
Џџ Dž dž gin a cough kašalj kashaly
Шш Šš sheep a cold prehladu prehladoo
diarrhoea proliv proleev
an allergy alergiju alergeeyoo
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176 PHRASE BOOK