A Basic Stun Gun Concept

Created: 2004"
Latest Update "August, 4 2014"

These somewhat low powered versions shown here are probably

around 50,000 volts on a slower pulse rate.
(If they are Built Correctly.)
The main power limitation to these two devices is T1. These are actually
minature "Audio Transformers"
connected in reverse to step up the 12 volts to around 400 volts, with no load.

These are not ideal parts for this purpose as they don't have the ability to
produce the high currents
that would result in a more sustained spark on the output.

This Medium powered version has a center tapped primary with dual transistors,
resulting in a
more efficient circuit. For Simplicity and "Off the Shelf", this was the best I could
do.

If your an adventurist, you could wind a small transformer for any of these units
below.
This would allow for higher efficiency and more current draw.

On the "Low Power" Stun-gun, Current draw is about 80 Ma at 9 volts.

On the "More Power" Stun-gun, Current draw is about 225 Ma at 9 volts.

With dual batteries, Better yet, 6 to 8 "AA" cells

Most Commerical Stun Guns, use either a "Spark Gap" or a "Surge Arrester"
(Movistor) to control Triggering of T2.

1) These Spark Gaps are just a Cross of two Metal strips.

Adjusting them is somewhat Critical and they are NOT very reliable over time.
Like Relay Contacts, they get Pit marks and than Fail to work properly.

2) Surge Arresters are made for Fixed Voltages.

Athough they are a simple solution, they don't allow for easy tuning of the output
spark rate.
Mostly they use Movistors rated between 800 to 1400 Volts.

As an alternative to these, I use an "SCR", as these allow for a good & reliable
adjustment to trigger T2.
The biggest draw-back is finding really high voltage SCR's. The SCR I normally
use is rated at 800 Volts @ 0.8 Amps.
Thats Not too bad, but a 1000 to 1200 volt rating would be nicer.
My hope is this info is a Help to some of you who just like to play a bit and get a
understanding of them.
In No Way Do I Recommend Building these Stun-Guns or the actual use of them
for any purpose what so-ever.

I Assume NO LIALIBITY for any resulting actions of those persons who build or
use any of these devices!

A Real Misconception about Stun-Guns, Is the Output Voltages.

Although this Sounds Good in the Advertizements, It is Current that does the
damage
and any spark capable of pentrating through the clothing and skin is totally
sufficant to do the job.

A blue spark looks pretty and will hurt, but a "YELLOW SPARK" is
"MUCH HIGHER CURRENT" and GETS REALLY DEADLY.

A Point to Ponder, Here is a picture of a 10 inch Diameter Porcelain Insulator!

This is the type used on the High Tension Power lines that run through the
country side.
On a 750,000 volt line, they will use about 35 of these insulators hooked together
in a series string.

The "Flash-over Voltage" of this Insulator is 80,000 Volts and that is over a
"surface distance" of about 11 inches.

When have you ever seen a 100 KV Stun Gun with even a 10 inch Spark Gap?
In Reality, the spark gap determines the "Actual Voltage Available at the probes".
With a spark gap of 1 to 2 inches or so, it is No-where near the 100,000 to
750,000 volts that these manufacturers claim.

GRAPH for Arc-Voltages/Distances, for Various probe shapes.

Since Most Stun Guns are Point to Point Arcing,
It is Highly Unlikely any of these can Exceed 80 KV.

NOTE: In most countries throughout the world, It is "Illegal" to "Make",

and/or "Possess", and/or "Use" this device

SO CHECK OUT YOUR LAWS AND PLAY CAREFULLY

For Persons wanting parts to Just Experiment:

I can supply the Small Transformer for Either one of these Circuit.

I can Also Supply the Fair-Rite Core, Part #4077375411.

Or a Smaller one, Part #4077312911, that works Equally Well.
Additionally, I can also supply some of the other parts and wire.

However, In No WAY will I supply a Bobbin for T2, or make this transformer for
Anyone.
So Don't Even Ask!
Also Note:
To propery make this "T2" Output Transformer so it will work without Shorting
Internally,
It MUST be "Vacuum Potted" in Epoxy Resin or Another GOOD Insulating
Materials.
Most Wax's are Not very good, as they have a high Moisture content.

Go Back to "My HOME Page"

Stun Gun basics-1

Stun Gun Basics-2

Simple "Low Power" Stun-gun Schematic, 1

"More Power" Stun-gun Schematic, 2

This is a "REVISED SCHEMATIC" with a Better Transformer for T1.

HOW to Wind a "Bifiliar Coil"

A Simple Tester to determine possible Faults in T2 Transformers.

Winding T2 without a Bobbin

This was just a Quick "mock-up", to show how its done.

T2, wound on a fairly good Bobbin.

A Commerical Made Stun Gun.

Here is an Inside View.

The little "X" CROSS of Metal that appears on the Circuit Board,
is a Cheap way to replace the small SCR Timing Circuit that I use in my Designs.
Its a Small Spark Gap, but is not easy to adjust properly and definately Not very
reliable.

The Output Spark gap shown here is 15/16" and the Human Contact Probes are
spaced 2 inches apart.
This unit is Faulty, (Bad Transformers) But I would estimate the output was about
50KV.

All Imformation in this Article is "Copyright protected".

Chemelec
*Copyright © 2007 & 2011*

A Powerful Stun Gun

Updated "Feb 16, 2005"
Latest Update "August 4, 2014"

The version is Quite Powerful, IF T1 and T2 are made Correctly.

"I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE BUILD THIS DEVICE".

This Is Presented HERE, Only for the Purpose of Demonstrating:

"How Simple a Deadly Device can be Constructed".

And If you do NOT Understand the Construction Details Give Below, You
are DEFINATELY Not Understanding enough to Even Attempt Making it.

I WILL NOT Offer any Further Construction Details.

NOR WILL I ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE STUPIDITY
OR INJURIES, RESULTING FROM PERSONS ATTEMPTING
TO BUILD OR USE THIS DEVICE.

BUT IF YOU DO SO, IT IS TOTALLY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

"T1" Was Home Built using a "Magnetics" Ferrite Core # "42620" and a Bobbin
# "PCB2620-12".
T1 can also be built using a Magnetics Pot Core, OP42616-UG and the PC-B2616-
11 Bobbin.
I Usually have Stock of Both of these.

WINDING T1:

The Primary Consists of a Dual 18 Turn Bifular wound coil using #26 AWG Wire.
It requires 2 layers, with "Nomex" Insulation between them, As well as a layer of
Nomex over the Primary.

The Secondary Consists of 8 Layers of 40 AWG Double Insulated Enamel wire

with aproximately 40 turns per layer,
Centered on each layer so there
is a dead space on either side. This Prevents possible arcing.

Additionally a .003 Inch thick "Nomax Paper Insulation" is Placed between each
layers.
Before Assembly, the Ferrite core is Gapped to 5/1000 of an inch.

"Nomex:" Is one of many Special Insulator types of paper used in the

Transformer Winding Industry.
Alternately you can use other Insulators such as "Fish Paper", Although they are
Not as Good.

With this Transformer Connected In the Circuit as Shown, Current draw is about
250 Ma at 12 volts With NO LOAD.
With the Diodes, Caps, SCR and T2 connected in a Compete Circuit, "The
Current draw can Exceed 2 Amps".

EVEN MORE POWER: A Bigger T1 Can be made Using a 42625 Core and a
PCB2625 Bobbin.
The Primary Consists of 14 Turns Bifular Wound on Two Layers.
Change the Secondary Wire to a 38 AWG, Double Insulated Wire and use about
45 turns per layer.
Fill the Bobbin with as Many layers as Possible, leaving a bit of Clearance
between the last layer and the ferrite core.
The Gap Remains the Same at 5/1000 of an inch.
This Results in a Faster Charging Time and a Higher Supply Voltage.
"T2" Was Wound on a "Fair_Rite" Rod, # "4077375211". It Measures .375 OD by
2 inchs long.

"ANOTHER T2" Was Wound on a "Fair_Rite" Rod, # "4077312911". It

Measures .315 OD by 1 1/2 inchs long.

Both these are Material 77 and it worked EQUALLY WELL.

But If you think All Ferrite Rods are the same and you can Just use Any Ferrite
Rod,
THINK AGAIN, "YOU ARE BADLY MISTAKEN".

I Stock Both these Rods above.

But now I Only have a few of the first one above,
And a few more of the second one.
(I will see about getting more now, but typically
these suppliers only sell in LARGE VOLUMES.)

WINDING T2:

First Apply a layer of .003 Nomex Paper Insuation.

Now wind a Primary of 25 Turns, 22 AWG wire in a single Layer.

It is than covered with a .005 or .008 Nomex Paper insulation.

The .008 Nomex is a bit better to keep this Layer more even to wind over.

The Secondary is wound over this with 40 AWG, Double Insulated Enamel Wire
and aproximately 180 turns in the first layer

and than LAYER Wound in declining layers at about 10 turns per layer.
A layer of .003 or .005 Nomex is placed between Each Layer.
1) 400

2) 390
3) 370

4) 360

5) 350

6) 340

7) 330

8) 320

9) 310

10) Final Layer about 125 Turns with the Output taken off Directly in the Middle,
Lenghtwise.
And a Final Couple of layers of Nomex are placed over top and Taped in place.
Total Turns, About 3,675 turns. But the Exact number of turns is Not All that
Critical.
The Absolute Ideal is to "Pi" Wind the Secondary, But this Results in a Different
number of turns and only a few layers.

This Completed Transformer is than Submersed in Epoxy, (Ideally in a Plastic

Form to contain it around the transformer.)
and than placed in a "VACUUM CHAMBER" and Subjected to a high Vacuum of
at least 25 inches of Hg.
for a one or two Minutes, than Release The Vacuum. I usually Repeat this
Vacuum Process Two or 3 Times.

The Reason for this is to Remove all Air Bubbles and have the Epoxy Totally
Penitrate between the Windings.
The Epoxy Surrounding the transformer should be at least 1/4 inch thick over the
Outer layer and 3/8 inch over the Ends.

Even though Epoxys have Different Hardening Times, such as 5 Minutes, 15

Minutes and some "up in the Hours",
They Actually Require about 24 Hours for a "FULL HARDNESS".
SO DON'T RUSH THIS!

Spark Gap Distance

The Correct Spark Gap Distance is Essential in the Completed Unit.
The Maximum Distance is a Function of How Well You Made T2.
Too Great of a Spark Gap Distance and T2 Shorts Out, Internally or Externally
NOTE: Some Info May have been Omitted in the Above!
This was My Prototype and I will Not Responsible
for any "Errors or Omissions".

A Real Misconception about Stun-Guns, Is the Voltages.

It Sound Good in the Advertisements, But it is Current that does the damage.
The Pulsing Effect of the Stun Gun adds Enormously to the Effect, But any spark
capable of
pentrating through the clothing and Surface Skin is totally sufficant to do the job
of Penitration.

A blue spark looks pretty, but a yellow spark is

"Much Higher Current" and REALLY MORE DANGEROUS.

MORE People are Killed by Relatively LOW Household Voltage

than any other electrical supply.

Points to Ponder,

REMEMBER: In Reality, the spark gap determines the "Actual Voltage Available
at the
probes".
With a spark gap of 1 to 2 inches or so, it may be No-where near the 100,000
Volts
And DIFINATELY NEVER the 750,000 volts that these manufacturers make
claims of.

IF YOU REMOVE THE SPARK GAP, it MAY Attempt to Attain these Voltages
But in the Process it will short out across the surface of T2.
GRAPH for Arc-Voltages/Distances,
for Various probe shapes.

Since Most Stun Guns are Point to Point Arcing,

It is Highly Unlikely any of these can Exceed 80 KV.

This Arcing "Acts like a Zener",

Holding the Voltage near this level of Arc Voltage,
Especially when there is a Relatively limited amount of Current.
In the Hydro Electric Industry, Some Lightning Arresters use this very same
method
to help Protect against "Lightning Strikes".

In Addition, Using this Graph,

You can Roughly Determine the "Actual Output" of a Commerical Built Stun Gun.

"IMPORTANT NOTE": In most countries throughout the world,

It is "Illegal" to "Make", and/or "Possess", and/or "Use" This device

SO CHECK OUT YOUR LAWS AND IF YOU PLAN TO PLAY,

"PLEASE, PLAY VERY CAREFULLY"

"Back to My HOME Page"

The Schematic.
NOTE: The Actual Schematic Varies Somewhat from this Design!
Like I Said, I didn't Intend this as an Actual Construction Article.
But If your Good Enough to get the Transformers Right,
and you have a good understanding of the Circuit
You should be able to Complete it and make it operational.

HOW to Wind a "Bifiliar Coil"

"T1 and T2 Pictures.

T2 Verses the Spark Gap.

There is A Direct Relationship here and it is Important.

A Simple Tester to determine possible

Faults in T2 Transformers.

The PCB Will Not be Shown.

All Imformation in this Article is "Copyright protected".

Chemelec
*Copyright © 2005 & 2012*