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eyewitness travel

amsterdam
poc k e t
m a p & gu i de

sights · shops · restaurants · bars


EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
amsterdam
poc k e t m a p & g ui de
Turn to the area of your choice

AREA COLOUR CODES


OUDE ZIJDE
pages 8–15

NIEUWE ZIJDE
pages 16–23

WESTERN CANAL RING


pages 24–29

CENTRAL CANAL RING


pages 30–35

EASTERN CANAL RING


pages 36–41

MUSEUM QUARTER
pages 42–47

PLANTAGE
pages 48–53
Amsterdam

WESTERN
CANAL RING
Pages 24–29

CENTRAL
CANAL RING
Pages 30–35

muSEum
quARTER
Pages 42–47
NIEuWE zIjdE
Pages 16–23

oudE zIjdE
Pages 8–15

pLANTAGE
Pages 48–53

EASTERN
CANAL RING
Pages 36–41
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

amsterdam
PO C KE T
GU I DE
pRojECT dIRECToRS Nicholas Bevan, derek Hall

EdIToRS derek Hall, marion dent, Sue juby

dESIGNER Tony Truscott

INdExER michael dent

pICTuRE RESEARCHER mirco decet

CARToGRApHy john plumer

Conceived and produced by Redback publishing, 25 Longhope


drive, Farnham, Surrey, Gu10 4SN
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printed and bound by Leo paper products Ltd.

First published in Great Britain in 2006


by dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

Copyright 2006 © dorling Kindersley Limited, London


A penguin Company

ALL RIGHTS RESERvEd. No pART oF THIS puBLICATIoN mAy BE REpRoduCEd,


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A CIp CATALoGuE RECoRd IS AvAILABLE FRom THE BRITISH LIBRARy.

ISBN-13: 978-1-40531-443-5
ISBN-10: 1-4053-1443-5

The information in this


DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as
telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The
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London WC2R 0RL.
People sitting on the Terrace of Cafe De Jaren

CONTENTS Further Afield 54


INTRODUCING day Trips From
AMSTERDAM Amsterdam 60
Central Amsterdam 4
PRACTICAL
Amsterdam’s
Highlights 6 INFORMATION
Getting Around 74
Survival Guide 76
Index 78
Acknowledgments 80

Wheels of Guda cheese

AMSTERDAM
AREA BY AREA
oude zijde 8
Nieuwe zijde 16
Western Canal Ring 24
Central Canal Ring 30
Eastern Canal Ring 36
museum quarter 42
Holland, Amsterdam, Centraal
plantage 48 Station Clock
4 INTR ODUCING A MSTERDA M

Central Amsterdam
This guide divides central Amsterdam into seven
areas, containing most of the city’s sights. The
oude zijde and Nieuwe zijde make up
medieval Amsterdam, the
museum quarter has the most

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This Neo-Gothic building in the
Museum Quarter houses the Dutch
national art collection (see p44).
CENTRAL AMSTERDAM 5

Superb Skyline
The Nieuwe Zijde’s
skyline is pierced by
the Neo-Gothic spire
of Magna Plaza, the
steeples of the
Nieuwe Kerk and the
statues on the
Koninklijk Paleis
(see pp16–23).

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g Ferry port
4 Museum boat boarding point Magere Brug
Q Metro station On the Eastern Canal Ring, this is
Amsterdam’s best-known bridge
£ Train station
(see p39).
6 INTR ODUCING A MSTERDA M

Amsterdam’s Highlights
For such a small city, Amsterdam has a surprisingly
large number of museums, housed in buildings of
architectural and historic interest, as well as many
magniicent churches. The city’s spirit is embodied
in its canals and waterways, spanned by many
beautiful bridges, and with elegant houses.

Museums
Rijksmuseum
An unrivalled collection of
paintings by dutch masters
are housed in this stunning
Neo-Gothic landmark. The
country’s largest national
museum, it irst opened in Anne Frank’s picture display in her
1885 (see p44). room in the Anne Frankhuis
Van Gogh Museum
The museum, built in 1973, Anne Frankhuis
holds the bulk of the trou- Almost a million visitors a
bled artist’s paintings and year come to this poignant
drawings, plus letters to his museum where Anne Frank
brother. The large, stark and her family were in hid-
building is based on a ing from the Nazis during
design by de Stijl architect World War II (see p26).
Gerrit Rietveld (see p45).
Stedelijk Museum
Canals and Waterways
The national museum of
modern art displays a Herengracht
dynamic collection of Amsterdam’s grandest canal
works by leading artists, (the Gentleman’s Canal)
including mondrian, was famous in the 1600s
picasso and Chagall, from for its Golden Bend, a
the mid-19th century, stretch of canal between
through the de Stijl move- Leidsestraat and vijzelstaat
ment to the present day lined with the superb
(see p45). mansions of wealthy
Museum Amstelkring merchants and politi-
The elegant rooms of cians (see p34).
this restored 17th- Keizergracht
century canal house The central canal
display a wealth of (the Emperor’s
church silver, reli- Canal) of the
gious artefacts, Grachtengordel
paintings and has ine tree-
even a secret lined stretches
Catholic church between
in the upper Brouwersgracht
two storeys and Raadhuis-
(see pp20–1). Stedelijk Museum straat. The best
AMSTERDAM’S HIGHLIGHTS 7

view is from the sixth-loor


café of metz & Co at
Leidsestraat (see p33).
Prinsengracht
The best way to see all the
beautiful buildings along
Amsterdam’s longest 17th-
century canal (the prince’s
Canal) is by bicycle. Stop
off for the many cafés and
art galleries in the area (see
pp26, 33).
Entrepotdok
The quayside of these old
warehouses, redeveloped in Matching houses on Herengracht
the 1980s, are now lined
with lively cafés overlook- Churches
ing an array of brightly-
coloured houseboats and Oude Kerk
herons dozing on the The stark interior of this
water’s edge (see p51). mighty Gothic basilica, the
Reguliersgracht city’s oldest church, still
The canal linking contains its exquisite
Herengracht, Keizergracht stained glass and world-
and prinsengracht was orig- famous organ (see pp12–13).
inally designed to be a Nieuwe Kerk
street. Seven hump-backed All the dutch monarchs
stone bridges cross the have been crowned here
pretty 1664 canal, with its since 1814. Feast your eyes
numerous crooked, but on an elaborate interior that
characterful brick buildings. boasts many ornate, lam-
boyant features (see p18).
Westerkerk
Stunning views justify the
climb up the city’s tallest
tower (82 m/272 ft), which
is topped by an Imperial
Crown (see p26).
Zuiderkerk
The Renaissance style of
the city’s irst Calvinist
church, with its decorative
clocks, spire and onion
dome, make it a prominent
landmark (see p11).
Noorderkerk
The North Church was the
irst in the city to be con-
structed like a Greek cross,
so that everyone in the
congregation could see the
Great Organ, Oude Kerk central pulpit (see p28).
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 9

OUDE ZIJDE
The eastern half of Amsterdam is called the
oude zijde (old Side). The area was once an
important commercial centre, with boats sailing
up the Geldersekade to Nieuwmarkt. At its heart
is oude Kerk, the city’s oldest chruch.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings and joods Historisch
Monuments museum 0
Waag and Nieuwmarkt 2 Churches and Synagogues
Agnietenkapel 4 zuiderkerk 7
oostindisch Huis 5 portugees-Israëlitische
Trippenhuis 6 Synagoge q
pintohuis w Oude Kerk pp12–13 r
montelbaanstoren e
Streets and Markets
Museums
Red Light district 1
Hash marijuana Hemp Waterlooplein 9
museum 3
museum Het
Rembrandthuis 8
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KEY
• Street Life p15
v Tram stop
Q Metro station 0 metres 400

4 Museum boat boarding point 0 yards 400

Items on sale at the Waterlooplein flea market


10 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Hash Marijuana Hemp


Museum 3
Map E3. Oudezijds
Achterburgwal. Open daily.
Adm charge.
This museum is the only
one in Europe to chart the
history of hemp (marijuana).
Exhibits refer back 8,000
years to early Asiatic
civilizations that used it for
medicines and clothing.
other exhibits include an
Entrance to one of the clubs in intriguing array of pipes and
the Red Light District bongs (smoking devices),
smuggling methods and a
Red Light District 1 cultivation area where
plants are grown under arti-
Map F3. icial light.
prostitutes touting for clients
at their windows is one of Agnietenkapel 4
Amsterdam’s deining
images. The district is criss- Map E4. Oudezijds Voorburgwal.
crossed by narrow lanes, Closed for renovations until 2007.
with sex shops and seedy Home to the university
clubs. By day a festive buzz museum, the Agnietenkapel
envelops the cafés, bars, dates from 1470. despite
restaurants and canalside periods of restoration and
houses, but at night it is best secular use, the building still
to keep to the main streets. has the feel of a Franciscan
chapel. The large, irst-loor
Waag and Nieuwmarkt 2 auditorium, the city’s oldest,
has a lovely ceiling, painted
Map F3. Nieuwmarkt. Waag: with Renaissance motifs and
closed to the public. Nieuwmarkt: a portrait of minerva, Roman
Sun antiques market, May–Sep; goddess of the arts.
Sat organic market, all year.
Amsterdam’s oldest surviv-
ing gatehouse (1488), the
multi-turreted Waag towers
over Nieuwmarkt square. To
the west the area is lanked
by the Red Light district
and, with the top end of the
Geldersekade, it forms the
city’s Chinatown. Leading
off it, down St Anton-
iesbreestraat, is the old
jewish quarter. The square
still retains many 17th- and The 15th-century Waag dominates
18th-century gabled houses. the paved square of Nieuwmarkt
OUDE ZIJDE 11

Zuiderkerk 7
Map F4. Zuiderkerkhof. Open
Mon–Fri. Tower open Wed–Sat,
Jun–Sep; by appt, Oct–May.
Adm charge.
The Renaissance-style
(1603) zuiderkerk was the
city’s irst Calvinist church.
The spire, with its columns,
clocks and onion dome, is a
prominent landmark. After
its 1988 restoration, it is a
public housing show centre.

Oostindisch Huis

Oostindisch Huis 5
Map F3. Oude Hoogstraat. Open
Tue–Wed, unless there is a gradu-
ation ceremony.
Seen from the courtyard, the
impressive red-brick façade,
with its ornate entrance and
stone-dressed windows, was
once the headquarters of the
dutch East India Company
(voC). Built in 1605, it is
now part of the university The spire of the Zuiderkerk, a
of Amsterdam. The 17th- prominent city landmark
century meeting room of the
voC lords has been Museum Het
restored. Rembrandthuis 8
Map F4. Jodenbreestraat. Open
Trippenhuis 6
daily, except 1 Jan. Adm charge.
Map F3. Kloveniersburgwal. Rembrandt worked and
Closed to the public. taught in this house from
This ornate Classical 1662 1639 to 1656. many of his
mansion appears to be one most famous paintings were
house but, in fact, is two. created in the irst-loor stu-
The façade, outlined by dio. Its ine collection of
eight Corinthian columns, drawings includes various
features false windows in self-portraits in different
the middle. It was designed moods and guises. The inte-
for wealthy arms merchants, rior, restored to its former
and hence the chimneys glory, has objects from the
look like cannons. The mid-1600s. A new wing con-
Trippenhuis now houses tains a small shop and two
the dutch Academy. loors for exhibitions.
12 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Oude Kerk r The Bell-


The city’s oldest monument and tower’s Spire
dates from
irst parish church, stands on the 1565, and
site of an early 13th-century contains a
church. Rebuilt in the 14th- 47-bell
century, it has expanded into a carillon,
added 1658.
mighty Gothic basilica. The
interior is stark, stripped of its
treasures after the Alteration in
1578, but it boasts a gilded
ceiling, exquisite stained
glass and a famous organ.

The Oak-encased Great


Organ (1724) has eight
bellows and 54 gilded pipes.

Christening
Chapel

Tomb of
Admiral
Abraham
van der Hulst
(1619–66)

The Oude Kerk


is a peaceful
haven at the
heart of the Red
Light District.

The Red Door’s


lintel reads:
“Marry in haste,
repent at leisure”.
OUDE ZIJDE 13

The Decorated
Pillars, relics
of the period
before 1578, were
painted to look
like brocade.

The Gilded Ceiling


decorates the delicate
15th-century vault.

Tomb of Admiral
Jacob van Heemskerk
(1567–1607)

The Lady Chapel


(1552) contains three
restored stained-
glass windows.

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
17th- and Map F3. Oudekerksplein.
18th-century Church open daily. Tower open
houses by appt (tel 689 2565) except
Former 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm charge.
sacristy
14 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Waterlooplein 9 Portugees-Israëlitische
Synagoge q
Map F4. Holland Experience open
daily. Adm charge. Market open Map G4. Mr Visserplein. Open
Mon–Sat. Sun–Fri, Apr–Oct except Jewish
This large market square holidays. Adm charge.
was created in 1882 in the Built in 1675 for the portu-
heart of the jewish quarter. guese Sephardic community,
It is now the setting for the this huge building contains
Holland Experience, a spec- the Holy Ark facing jerus-
tacular multimedia show alem and the tebah (podi-
taking visitors on a 30- um) opposite. The wooden,
minute tour of the country. barrel-vaulted ceiling is
At its north end is the city’s supported by four Ionic
best flea market. columns. The interior is illu-
minated by 1,000 candles
and 72 windows.

Pintohuis w
Map F4. Sint Antoniesbreestraat.
Library open Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat
except public hols. Free.
Now a public library, the
pintohuis is named after the
portuguese merchant Isaac
de pinto who paid an exor-
The Star of David, worn by all Jews bitant 30,000 guilders for it
during the Nazi occupation in 1651. He had it remod-
elled to an Italianate style by
Joods Historisch Elias Bouman. The cornice
Museum 0 is topped by a blind balus-
trade hiding the roof and
Map F4. Nieuwe Amstelstraat. inside, the ceiling is painted
Open daily except Yom Kippur. with birds and cherubs.
Adm charge.
This complex of four syna-
gogues was built in the 17th
and 18th centuries by
Ashkenazi jews, but the
buildings lay empty after the
devastation of World War II.
Restored, and opened in
1987 as a museum, they are
linked by glass-covered
internal walkways, with dis-
plays covering jewish art,
culture, religious artefacts
and the diamond industry.
There are also some remark-
able exhibits bringing home Six imposing pilasters break up the
the horrors of the Holocaust. cream façade of the Pintohuis
OUDE ZIJDE 15

Montelbaanstoren e
Map G3. Oude
Waal/Oudeschans. Closed to the
public.
Begun in 1512, this tower
formed part of the city’s
medieval fortifications. The
octagonal upper structure
and timber steeple were
added in 1606. A gathering
place for sailors bound for
the East Indies, it appears in
many Rembrandt etchings. It
is still a popular subject for
artists and now houses the
city’s water authority.

Oude Kerk r
The medieval Montelbaanstoren,
with its open-work timber steeple See pp12–13.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
Bird Engelbewaarder
Map F3. Zeedijk 72. Map F4. Kloveniersburgwal 59.
Tel 020 620 1442. Classic “brown café”.
Moderate
The tastiest Thai food in town Freddy’s Bar
Map E4. Hotel De l’Europe,
Café Roux Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2–8.
Map E3. The Grand Hotel, Ideal for a classy, pre-dinner
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197. drink.
Tel 020 555 3560.
Moderate VOC Café
Inspired dishes with a fine Map F3. Prins Hendrikkade
French touch. 94–95.
Traditional-style bar.
De Bekeerde Suster
Map F4. Kloveniersburgwal SHOPPING
6–8. Tel 020 626 6280. Capsicum Natuurstoffen
Fine restaurant in former Map F3. Oude Hoogstraat 1.
cloister. Gorgeous printed and embroi-
dered silks, linens and cottons.
Café de Sluyswacht
Map F4. Jodenbreestraat 1. Jacob Hooy & Co
Tel 020 625 7611. Map F4. Kloveniersburgwal 12.
A former lock-keeper’s house Best place for herbs, homeo-
with a canal-side terrace. pathic remedies, tea and
essential oils.
See p80 for price codes.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 17

NIEUWE ZIJDE
The western side of medieval Amsterdam was
known as Nieuwe zijde (New Side). Along with
oude zijde it formed the heart of the early mar-
itime settlement. As the city grew, it expanded
eastwards, leaving Nieuwe zijde in decline.
much of the area was rebuilt in the mid-1400s.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings, Allard pierson museum 8
Monuments and Bridges Museum Amstelkring
Koninklijk paleis 2 pp20–1 w
Nationaal monument 4
Torensluis 9
magna plaza 0 SEE ALSO

Streets and Squares • Street Life p23


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Kalverstraat, the main shopping street of the city


18 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Nieuwe Kerk 1 Madame Tussauds


Scenerama 3
Map E3. Dam. Open during
exhibitions only. Adm charge. Map E3. Peek & Cloppenburg
Since 1814, all dutch mon- Building, Dam. Open daily
archs have been crowned Sep–Jun except 30 Apr.
Adm charge.
here. dating from the 1300s,
Amsterdam’s second parish displays at this outpost of
church was built to replace the London waxworks range
the smaller oude Kerk, but from fascinating to bizarre,
it had to be rebuilt after the such as the animated 5-m
great ire of 1645. Its magnif- (16-ft) igure of “Amsterdam
icent interior boasts an elab- man”, but the wax models
orate gilded organ, a lam- of 17th-century people give
boyantly carved pulpit, an an insight into life in the
ornate three-tiered brass Golden Age. There is also
candelabra and superb an audiovisual tour of the
stained-glass windows. city’s history.
Today it is also a cultural
centre.

Koninklijk Paleis 2
Map E3. Dam. Opening times
vary. Adm charge.
This stark Classical ediice,
begun in 1648, was built as
the Stadhuis (town hall). Its
magniicence is best seen in
the vast Burgerzaal (citizen’s
hall); it boasts a marble loor
inlaid with maps of the One of the two heraldic stone lions
hemispheres, epic sculp- on the Nationaal Monument
tures and ornate ceilings.
most of the furniture dates Nationaal Monument 4
from 1808, when Louis
Napoleon named it as his Map E3. Dam.
royal palace. Sculpted by john Raedecker
and designed by jjp oud,
the 22-m (70-ft) obelisk in
the dam commemorates
dutch World War II casual-
ties. unveiled in 1956, it is
fronted by two lions,
heraldic symbols of the
Netherlands. Embedded in
the wall behind are urns
containing earth from all the
dutch provinces plus the
former dutch colonies of
Indonesia, the Antilles and
Classical façade of Koninklijk Paleis Surinam.
NIEUWE ZIJDE 19

Two churches and one of the few remaining wooden houses in the city
nestle in the secluded, tree-filled courtyard of Begijnhof

Nes 5 Begijnhof 7
Map E4. Map E4. Spui. Gates open
This quiet, narrow street is mid-Sep to mid-Apr. Free.
home to several theatres. In This bewitching sanctuary
1614, Amsterdam’s irst bank of elegant houses around a
opened in a pawnshop at tranquil green was founded
No. 57. A wall plaque marks in 1346 for the Begijntjes, a
the site, and pawned goods lay Catholic sisterhood who
still clutter the shop win- lived like nuns. It features
dow. At night, Nes can be a rows of beautiful houses,
dangerous place for the including the city’s oldest
unguarded visitor. at No. 34, fascinating wall
plaques with biblical
themes, the lovely Engelse
Kerk and an appealing hid-
den chapel with superb
stained glass and paintings.

Allard Pierson Museum 8


Map E4. Oude Turfmarkt. Open
Tue–Sun & public hols except
Wall plaques and maps in the
25 Dec, 1 Jan, Easter Sun & Mon,
Amsterdams Historisch Museum
Ascension Day, 30 Apr, Whitsun.
Adm charge.
Amsterdams Historisch
Museum 6 Amsterdam’s only specialist
archaeological collection is
Map E4. Kalverstraat, housed in this handsome
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, St Neo-Classical building. The
Luciensteeg. Open daily except 25 Cypriot, Greek, Egyptian,
Dec, 1 Jan, 30 Apr. Adm charge.
Roman, Etruscan and Coptic
A fascinating collection of artefacts include a gruesome
artefacts, archaeological Egyptian mummy, a com-
inds, clothes, jewellery, puter letting you write your
paintings, sculptures and name in hieroglyphics, a
maps are housed in this for- jointed Greek doll from
mer red brick convent and, 300 BC and some ine
from 1580, civic orphanage. Roman jewellery.
20 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Museum Amstelkring w
on the edge of the Red Light district is a restored
17th-century canal house, with two smaller houses
to the rear. The upper storeys conceal a secret
Catholic church, built in 1663. After the Alteration,
when Amsterdam oficially became protestant,
many such churches were built. A museum since
1888, it houses a ine collection of church silver,
religious artefacts and paintings.

Wooden viewing
A Priest’s
gallery of church
Tiny Box
Bedroom is
hidden off a
bend in the
stairs.

The Façade has


a simple spout
gable.

The Parlour is a
fine example of
17th-century
Dutch Classical
style

Main entrance

Reception room in late House on


19th-century style the canal
NIEUWE ZIJDE 21

The Original Clandestine


Church served the Catholic
community until St Nicolaaskerk
was finished in 1887 (see p22).

Sacristy

The Baptism of
Christ (1716),
hanging above the
mock marble altar,
is one of three
interchangeable
altar paintings.

Rear
house The Tiny Wooden
Confessional was
the living room of
the rear house.
Middle
house

The 17th-century Kitchen, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST


originally part of the Map F3. Oudezijds
sacristan’s secret living Voorburgwal. Open daily &
quarters, has Delft tiles, public hols except 1 Jan, 30 Apr.
fireplace and black-and- Adm charge.
white floor.
22 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

The Torensluis, one of Amsterdam’s widest bridges, overlooked by some


of the Singel’s finest canal houses

Torensluis 9 shopping mall, the magna


plaza. The grand dim-
Map E3. Singel between ensions and arched galleries
Torensteeg and Oude Leliestraat. of the original design have
one of the city’s widest been well preserved.
bridges, built on the site of a
17th-century sluice gate, it Sint Nicolaaskerk q
had a jail built into its
foundations. In summer, sit Map F2. Prins Hendrikkade. Open
at café tables on the bridge daily. Free.
and enjoy the views of the The twin towers of the 1887
ine houses along the Singel. church’s forbidding exterior
The statue of multatuli, a dominate the skyline. Its
19th-century dutch writer, monumental interior was
dominates the bridge. recently enlivened by the
replacement of the stained-
Magna Plaza 0 glass windows in the
dome. Sint Nicolaas
Map E3. Nieuwezijds was the patron saint
Voorburgwal. Open of seafarers, and
daily except public thus an important
hols.
icon in
A post ofice has Amsterdam. The
been sited here main day for giv-
since 1748. The ing presents in the
present Neo- Netherlands,
Gothic building of 5 december, is
1899 was much known as
criticized for its Sinterklaasavond.
elaborately deco-
rated style and Museum
spindly towers. In Amstelkring w
1990 it opened as Neo-Renaissance façade
the city’s irst of the Sint Nicolaaskerk See pp20–1.
NIEUWE ZIJDE 23

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS De Jaren
Green Planet Map E4. Nieuwe Doelenstraat
Map E3. Spuistraat 122. 20.
Tel 020 625 8280. Light and airy grand-café with
Moderate wood and glass interior. Salad
Bright, modern vegetarian bar. Canal-side terrace. Cash is
café-restaurant. Perfect for a the only currency accepted at
quick snack or hearty meal. this former bank.

De Vijff Vlieghen De Still


Map E3. Spuistraat 294. Map E3. Spuistraat 326.
Tel 020 530 4060. Around 600 whiskies (mostly
Moderate rare malts) at this bar, which
Each room has a theme, also runs an annual whisky
including the Rembrandt festival.
Room. New Dutch cuisine.
Supperclub
BARS AND CAFÉS Map E3. Jonge Roelensteeg 21.
Absinthe Decadent lounge bar in base-
Map E4. Nieuwezijds ment of this hip restaurant.
Voorburgwal 171.
Sample La Fée Verte (The Villa Zeezicht
Green Fairy) if you dare. Map D4. Torensteeg 7.
Late-opening lounge bar. With wooded warmth and
charm, this relaxed corner
Al’s Place café overlooks the wide
Map E3. Nieuwendijk 10. cobbled Singel bridge.
Authentic British fish ‘n‘ chips,
with tabloids, ketchup and SHOPPING
brown sauce. Housewives on Fire
Map E3. Spuistraat 102.
Bar Bep All-in-one store for complete
Map E4. Nieuwezijds makeover. Funky hair styles
Vooburgwal 260. and a good selection of
This small lounge bar, with its clubbers’ clothes.
guest DJs, will get you in the
mood for a long night out on P G C Hajenius
the town. Map E4. Rokin 92–96.
One of Europe’s most famous
Het Schuim cigar houses. A must for all
Map E3. Spuistraat 189. cigar connoisseurs. Great Art
Art meets alcohol at this large Deco interior.
rustic-style bar. Food served
until 10pm. De Bierkoning
Map E3. Paleisstraat 125.
Hoppe “The Beer King” has a fantas-
Map E4. Spui 18. tic range of 1,000 beers from
Dark, wooden interior, the around the world.
very essence of a classic
“brown café”. See p80 for price codes.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 25

WESTERN CANAL RING


Encapsulating Amsterdam’s relaxed yet stylish
air, this area grew up as a working class district
when construction of the Canal Ring began in
the 1600s. It is famous for its almshouses (hof-
jes), the narrow streets of the jordaan district and
to the north, the characterful Western Islands.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings, Hofjes
Monuments and Streets Claes Claeszhofje 8
The jordaan 1 de Star and zon’s Hofje 9
Huis met de Hoofden 5
Museums SEE ALSO
Theatermuseum 2 • Street Life p29
Anne Frankhuis 4
pianola en piano
museum q
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View of Prinsengracht with its densely packed houseboats


26 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

The Jordaan 1 Westerkerk 3


Map C3. Map D3. Prinsengracht. Open
West of the Grachtengordel Mon–Sat, Easter–Sep (Aug–Sep
(Canal Ring), the jordaan only, except during services).
Tower open Mon–Sat, Apr–Sep;
still retains a network of nar-
Oct–Mar by appt. Adm charge.
row, characterful streets and
charming, tree-lined canals. At 85 m (272 ft), this church
Among the 17th-century (1620) boasts Amsterdam’s
workers’ houses are quirky tallest tower. It also has the
shops, lively brown cafés largest nave of any dutch
and bars, as well as grand protestant church.
churches and museums. Rembrandt was buried here
but his grave has never
been found. The painted
organ shutters depict scenes
of King david and the
queen of Sheba. There are
stunning views from the top
of the tower.

Anne Frankhuis 4
Map D3. Prinsengracht. Open
daily except Yom Kippur.
Adm charge.
during World War II, the
Frank and van daan fami-
Façade of Theatermuseum lies, both jewish, hid here
until their betrayal to the
Theatermuseum 2 Nazis. visitors climb to the
second loor, entering the
Map D3. Herengracht. Open daily annexe via the revolving
except 1 Jan, 30 Apr, 25 Dec. bookcase that concealed its
Adm charge. entrance.
Two ine buildings house a
collection of costumes, sets
and memorabilia. visitors
can play with antique sound
effects and create a storm.
Entrance is in the Neo-
Classical White House (No.
168), built 1638. Inside are a
magniicent spiral staircase,
stuccowork and rich ceiling
paintings. It extends into
Bartolotti House (built
1617), Nos. 170–172. Its
elaborate Renaissance
façade contrasts sharply
with the austere White
House. Inside Anne Frankhuis
WESTERN CANAL RING 27

or prinsengracht. demand
for canalside residences
here has boomed.

Bloemgracht 7
Map C3.
The centre for dye and paint
manufacture in the 1600s,
this quiet canal has ine
gable houses along its
banks. The most beautiful
are the three houses at Nos.
87 to 91. Built in 1642, they
Huis met de Hoofden feature stepped gables and a
strong use of glass. Their
Huis met de Hoofden 5 gable stones depict a farmer,
a townsman and a seaman.
Map D2. Keizersgracht. Closed to
the public.
Built in 1622, the Huis met
de Hoofden takes its name
from the six Classical busts
(of Apollo, Ceres, mars,
minerva, Bacchus and
diana) on pilasters along
the façade. It houses the
Stichting monumenten en
Archeologie, which super-
vises public monuments.

Egelantiersgracht 6
Map D2.
This charming canal in the
jordaan was cut in the Bikes and boats along the tranquil
1600s along a drainage Bloemgracht
ditch. Its houses, built for
artisans, are more intimate Claes Claeszhofje 8
than the grand mansions
found along Herengracht Map D2. Egelantiersdwarsstraat.
Open on & off. Free.
This is a group of hofjes, the
earliest dating from 1616
and owned by a textile mer-
chant, Claes Claesz Anslo.
one of the oldest and most
distinctive is “Huis met de
Schrijvende Hand” (house
with the writing hand) at
Egelantiersstraat 52. It dates
The tree-lined Egelantiersgracht from the 1630s.
28 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

(jordaan Riot). on the south


façade a plaque recalls the
Nazis’ deportation of jews.
Since 1627, the surrounding
square has been the site of a
lea market. on Saturdays
fabrics, beds and bedding
are sold, and on mondays it
is the turn of small animals,
health foods, candles and
and ethnic crafts.
The lush garden in the courtyard of
De Star hofje Pianola en Piano
Museum q
De Star Hofje and Zon’s
Map D2. Westerstraat. Open Sun
Hofje 9
(Mon–Sat by appt only).
Map D2. Prinsengracht. Open Adm charge.
sporadically. Free. Fifteen instruments and
de Star hofje, built in 1804 15,000 piano rolls are on
on the Star Brewery site, is show here, celebrating the
oficially called van Brienen automatic pianos introduced
hofje. Its peaceful courtyard in 1900. Regular perfor-
has a lovely lower garden. mances are given, often
zon’s hofje was built on the with live pianists.
site of a clandestine church
known as Noah’s Ark.

Noorderkerk and
Noordermarkt 0
Map D2. Noordermarkt. Church
open Sat–Mon. Free. Flea market
open Mon; Boerenmarkt (organic
fruit and vegetables) open Sat.
The North Church was the A houseboat on Brouwersgracht
irst in the city to be built in
the shape of a Greek cross. Brouwersgracht w
A sculpture commemorates
the 1934 jordaanoproer Map D1.
Brouwersgracht (Brewers’
Canal) was named after the
breweries sited here in the
17th and 18th centuries.
Today the residences look
out onto houseboats. prime
examples of these buildings,
with their spout gables and
shutters, can be seen at Nos.
188 to 194. ooievaar, the
Visitors to the Saturday morning area’s last distillery, is off
fair in Noordermarkt Brouwersgracht on drie-
WESTERN CANAL RING 29

hoekstraat (Triangle street).


The dutch gin, jenever, has
been made here since 1782.

Western Islands e
Map D1.
The three islands were built
on the Ij in the early 1600s
to provide for warehouses Plaque with shipping motif on a
and shipyards. many period house in Zandhoek, Realeneiland
houses have survived.
Bickerseiland is a mix of row of 17th-century houses
colourful apartment blocks overlook the sailboats
on one side, with tugs and moored along Westerdok.
houseboats on the other. prinseneiland, the smallest
Realeneiland has one of the island, is dominated by
prettiest spots, the waterside characterful warehouses;
street of zandhoek. Here, a many are now apartments.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS Finch
Balraj Map D2. Noordermarkt 5.
Map D1. Haarlemmerdijk 28. Small, popular watering-hole
Tel 020 625 1428. on edge of scenic square,
Moderate which the hip local clientele
Some of the best Indian food spill onto in summer.
in town.
De Reiger
Foodism Map C3. Nieuwe Leliestraat 34.
Map D3. Oude Leliestraat 8. King of the eetcafés. Join the
Tel 020 427 5103. contented locals to eat good
Cheap food, knock back the wine
Delicious, healthy food, and just chat.
including vegetarian.
SHOPPING
Spanjer & Van Twist Back Beat
Map D3. Leliegracht 60. Map D2. Egelantiersstraat 19.
Tel 020 639 0109. New and second-hand record
Moderate and CD shop specializing in
Perfect place to rest your jazz, soul, funk and R&B. Rare
weary feet. Grab the second- collector’s items, too.
floor window seat.
Donald E Jongejans
BARS AND CAFÉS Map D2. Noorderkerkstraat 18.
’t Arendsnest Vintage frames specialist
Map E2. Herengracht 90. selling a fascinating selection
Over 130 types of Dutch beer, of eyewear, dating from the
with several on tap. Informal 1800s onwards.
tasting sessions last Sunday of
each month. See p80 for price codes.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 31

CENTRAL CANAL RING


Amsterdam’s three major canals, Herengracht,
Keizersgracht and prinsengracht, are at their
most impressive in this central section of the
Grachtengordel. opulent buildings abound, and
cutting through the area is the main thorough-
fare, Leidsestraat, and the bustling Leidseplein.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings and Clubs and Theatres
Monuments de melkweg 3
American Hotel 2 Stadsschouwburg 4
paleis van justitie 5 Canals and Squares
metz & Co 7 Leidseplein 1
Museums Leidsegracht 6
Bijbels museum 9 Golden Bend 8
Markets
Looier Kunst en SEE ALSO
Antiekcentrum 0
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Cyclist crossing one of the many bridges on Leidsegracht


32 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Leidseplein 1 De Melkweg 3
Map D5. Map D5. Lijnbaansgracht. Box
Amsterdam’s busiest square office open daily. Performances
is also a busy tram intersec- 8.30pm approx. Adm charge.
tion. Each day it buzzes with The multimedia centre
ire-eaters, buskers and de melkweg (milky Way)
other street performers. It is opened in 1970. It offers a
also popular with pickpock- wide range of enter-
ets. At night, the young tainment, including live
hang out in the bars, cafés, music, theatre, dance, ilm,
restaurants, nightclubs and video and a photographic
cinemas around the square. gallery. The theatre has a
stage for new international
American Hotel 2 acts. Its annual Amsterdam
Roots Festival promotes
Map D5. Leidsekade. the latest in world music.
The design of this 1902 hotel
interpreted the Art Nouveau
style in an angular dutch
fashion. The turreted exter-
ior and elaborate brickwork
anticipated the progressive
Amsterdam School. The Café
Americain, decorated in Art
deco style, remains one of
the most elegant in
Amsterdam. It retains its
period furnishings and
stained-glass windows.
De Melkweg’s star-lit façade

Stadsschouwburg 4
Map D5. Leidseplein. Box office
open Mon–Sat. Adm charge.
This ornate Neo-
Renaissance building (its
two predecessors burned
down) houses the city’s
municipal theatre. It stages
plays by local groups, such
as resident Toneelgroep
Amsterdam, and international
companies, including
English-language prod-
uctions. It is a favourite
venue for Amsterdam’s
premier football club, Ajax,
to greet their fans on the
The American Hotel seen from theatre’s balcony. Currently,
Singelgracht it is undergoing renovation.
CENTRAL CANAL RING 33

The elongated Neo-Classical façade of the Paleis van Justitie, converted


from the city orphanage

Paleis van Justitie 5 the city’s smartest addresses.


Cornelis Lely, who drew up
Map D5. Prinsengracht. Opening the original plans for drain-
restricted. Free. ing the zuiderzee, was born
The former city orphanage at No. 39 in 1854. A wall
was converted into the plaque shows Lely poised
sober Empire-style palace of between the zuiderzee
justice in 1829. Balustrades and the newly created
run along the rooline, and Ijsselmeer.
the imposing Neo-Classical
façade is broken up by Metz & Co 7
Corinthian pilasters. The
building houses Map D4. Leidsestraat.
Amsterdam’s Court of Open daily except
Appeal, and the courtrooms public hols. Free.
inside are set around two on its completion
open yards. in 1891, this was
the tallest com-
Leidsegracht 6 mercial building
in Amsterdam
Map D4. at a height of
The Leidsegracht was once 26 m (85 ft).
the main route for barges It was
from Amsterdam to Leiden. designed by
Cut in 1664, it is now one of j van Looy
and built for
the New
york Life
Insurance The 1933 cupola
Company. of Metz & Co
Since 1908,
it has housed the luxury
store metz & Co. In 1933,
a splendid glass cupola by
Gerrit Rietveld was added.
Liberty of London, which
bought metz & Co in 1973,
renovated it and installed a
café on the sixth loor. The
views across the city from
No. 39 Leidsegracht, on the right the café are superb.
34 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

artefacts was put on public


display. In 1975, the museum
was relocated in two 17th-
century houses. Highlights
include a copy of the Book
of Isaiah from the dead Sea
Scrolls, the delft Bible
Classical columns and façades are (1477) and two ceiling
a feature of the Golden Bend paintings by jacob de Wit.
displays feature archaeo-
Golden Bend 8 logical inds from Egypt and
the middle East and models
Map D4. Herengracht open daily of historical sites. There is
except public hols. Free. also a lovely garden.
In the 1600s, the Heren-
gracht was called the Looier Kunst en
Golden Bend because of its Antiekcentrum 0
wealthy mansions. many are
now ofices or banks. The Map C4. Elandsgracht. Open
earliest ones, dating from Sat–Thu except public hols.
the 1660s, were faced with The Looier Antiques Centre
sandstone. one ine exam- comprises a vast network of
ple is at No. 412. No. 475 is ground-loor rooms in a
typical Louis xIv in style: block of houses. Named
built in 1730, it is called the after its site near Looiers-
jewel of canal houses. The gracht (tanners’ canal), the
Kattenkabinet (cat museum) market boasts the largest
at No. 497 Herengracht is collection of art and
accessible to the public. antiques in the Netherlands.
It has around 100 stalls
Bijbels Museum 9 selling everything from
glassware to dolls. on
Map D4. Herengracht. Open Saturdays, anyone can rent a
daily except 1 Jan, 30 Apr. stall here and once a month
Adm charge. the facility is rent-free.
Founded in 1860, the irst Lively bridge sessions, open
private collection of biblical to all, are always on the go.

Vintage robots on sale at the Looier Kunst en Antiekcentrum


CENTRAL CANAL RING 35

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS Saarein II
Bojo Map C4. Elandsstraat 119.
Map D5. Lange A quiet lesbian bar during the
Leidsedwarsstraat 49–51. week, but rowdy at week-
Tel 020 622 7434. ends. Good food available.
Cheap Pool table.
Informal Indonesian cuisine.
SHOPPING
Dining Eleven Frozen Fountain
Map D3. Reestraat 11. Map D4. Prinsengracht 629–645.
Tel 020 620 7968. Furniture and household
Moderate products. Cutting-edge
Fantastic Mediterranean- designs.
inspired fish dishes. Meat-
lovers also catered for. De Kaaskamer
Map D4. Runstraat 7.
Goodies Cheese with a capital C.
Map D4. Huidenstraat 9. Over 200 different kinds of
Tel 020 625 6122. one of Holland’s best exports.
Moderate
Healthy soups, salads and Fifties-Sixties
sandwiches by day. Perfect Map D4. Reestraat 5.
pasta by night. Kitsch selection of designer
toasters, lava lamps and light-
Noa ing from the 1950s and 60s.
Map D4. Leidsegracht 84.
Tel 020 626 0802. Pompadour
Moderate Map D4. Huidenstraat 12.
Hip food at New York-style Chic chocolaterie. Home-
lounge bar with champagne made chocolates and exquis-
and cocktails. ite tarts.

BARS AND CAFÉS Sound of the Fifties


The Bar With No Name Map D4. Prinsengracht 669
Map D4. Wolvenstraat 23. Unique shop selling rare and
Affluent, trendy 1970s-style collectable 1950s vinyl.
lounge bar-restaurant.
Imaginative food from 6pm. Zinne & Minne
Map D4. Wolvenstraat 14.
De Admiraal Sensuous pampering.
Map D4. Herengracht 319. Massage oils, aphrodisiacs
One of the city’s smarter and playful bedtime games.
proflokaalen (tasting houses).
Open ‘til late. Zipper
Map D4. Huidenstraat 7.
Het Land van Walem Vintage second-hand clothes
Map D4. Keizersgracht 449. and accessories.
Sip a champagne cocktail on
the canal-side terrace at this See p80 for price codes.
trendy café.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 37

EASTERN CANAL RING


Stretching south from munttoren, this area lies
beyond the medieval city wall. Grand houses on
the major canal ring convey a sense of life in the
Golden Age. Beyond is the 19th-century multi-
cultural district of de pijp, now home to Albert
Cuypmarkt, the city’s biggest street market.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings and Bridges Heineken Experience 8
Blauwbrug 3 museum van Loon 9
magere Brug 5 Cinemas
Amstelkerk 6 Tuschinski Theater 0
munttoren q
Squares and Markets SEE ALSO
Rembrandtplein 1 • Street Life p41
Albert Cuypmarkt 7
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Colourful display of flowers at the Albert Cuypmarkt


38 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

merchant class lived in luxury


along the Grachtengordel
(Canal Ring). In 1895, the
house and its many trea-
sures of paintings, glass,
silver and ceramics were left
to the city. Some of the
rooms remain unchanged,
but others, such as the
kitchen and Garden Room,
have been restored in 18th-
century style.

Blauwbrug 3
Map F4. Amstel.
In the 1600s, the Blauwbrug
Two of the many outdoor cafés on (Blue Bridge) may have
Rembrandtplein been named after the colour
of the original wooden
Rembrandtplein 1 bridge over this stretch of
the Amstel. The present
Map E4. stone structure was built for
Formerly called Botermarkt the 1883 World Exhibition in
(butter market), this square Amsterdam. The bridge, sur-
was renamed after a statue mounted by ornate lamps, is
of Rembrandt was erected in adorned with sculptures of
1876. Rembrandtplein soon medieval boats, ish and the
became a centre for city’s imperial crown. The
nightlife. The mille Col- design was inspired by
onnes Hotel dates from paris’s Alexander III bridge.
1889, the Schiller Karena
hotel and Café Schiller from
1892. de Kroon, the epito-
me of a typical grand café,
dates from 1898. Rem-
brandtplein is as popular as
ever. during the summer,
the café terraces are packed
with people enjoying a
drink and watching the
world go by.

Museum
Willet-Holthuysen 2
Map F5. Herengracht. Open daily
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 30 Apr.
Adm charge.
Named after its last resi- Blauwbrug is adorned with sculp-
dents, this 1685 museum tures on nautical and maritime
allows a glimpse of how the themes
EASTERN CANAL RING 39

Magere Brug 5
Map F5. Amstel.
of Amsterdam’s 1,400
bridges, magere Brug
(Skinny Bridge) is probably
the best known. The origi-
nal drawbridge (built 1670)
may have been named after
the two mager sisters, who
lived either side of the
Amstel, or for its narrow
(mager) design. The present
drawbridge was built in 1969.

Six Collection Amstelkerk 6


Map E5. Amstelveld. Open
Six Collection 4
Mon–Fri except public hols. Free.
Map F4. Amstel. Closed for originally, the wooden,
renovation. Neo-Gothic Amstelkerk
The Six Collection houses (1668) was meant to be tem-
furniture, silverware, porce- porary. Not until 1840 was
lain and ine paintings, col- its plain interior renovated:
lected in the 1600s by one pulpit, walls, pews and
of the city’s richest men, jan organ date from this period,
Six, friend and patron of but the windows date from
Rembrandt. Several of his 1821. In the 1980s, the
paintings are among the Amstelkerk was converted,
treasures of the extensive art with ofices installed inside.
collection: Portrait of Jan Services and concerts are
Six (1654), considered to be still held here, and the nave,
the artist’s inest portrait, preserved in its Neo-Gothic
and Portrait of Anna magniicence, houses the
Wijmer. ine janvier restaurant.

The Amstelkerk, built as a temporary church in the 17th century


40 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Museum van Loon 9


Map E5. Keizersgracht. Open
Fri–Mon and daily Jul, Aug except
public hols. Adm charge.
In 1884, the van Loon family
moved into this 1672 canal-
Smoked fish in Albert Cuypmarkt side building, one of a pair
of symmetrical houses. In
Albert 1974 it opened as a museum,
Cuypmarkt 7 with a collection of van
Loon family portraits from
Map E6. Albert Cuypstraat. Open the early 1600s. period
Mon–Sat. rooms display ine furniture,
The market attracts some porcelain and sculpture.
20,000 visitors on weekdays,
many more on Saturdays. Tuschinski Theater 0
The 325 stalls sell anything
from ish, poultry, cheese, Map E4. Reguliersbreestraat.
fruit and vegetables to Box office open daily.
clothes. prices are among Adm charge.
the city’s cheapest. When it opened in 1921,
the theatre’s exotic blend
Heineken Experience 8 of Art deco and Amster-
dam School architecture
Map E6. Stadhouderskade. was sensational. Now con-
Open Tue–Sun except 25 Dec, verted into a six-screen
1 Jan. Adm charge. cinema, the building has
The Heineken company was been superbly restored.
founded in 1864. The origi-
nal Stadhouderskade build- Munttoren q
ing was built in 1867, where
beer was produced until Map E4. Muntplein. Closed to
1988. The Heineken the public. Shop open Mon–Sat.
Reception Centre shows The polygonal base of the
visitors the tiled brewhouse, munttoren (mint Tower)
with its enormous brewing formed part of a gate in
coppers, and the renovated Amsterdam’s medieval city
stables where the splendid wall. only the base survived
heavy dray horses are once a ire in 1618. The next year,
more on show. a clock tower was added.
The 1699 caril-
lon rings every
15 minutes.

Dray horse and beer wagon at the Heineken Brouwerij


EASTERN CANAL RING 41

Bloemenmarkt w directly from their boats.


Today, the stalls are still
Map E4. Singel. Open daily. loating but are perma-
on the Singel, west of munt- nent. The seasonal lower
plein, is the last of the city’s displays and spring
loating markets. In the past, bedding-plants are always
nurserymen sailed up the beautiful to look at.
Amstel and moored here to
sell lowers and plants

Florist arranging his display at the Bloemenmarkt

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
The Golden Temple Chocolate Bar
Map F5. Utrechtsestraat 26. Map D6. Eerste van der
Tel 020 626 8650. Helststraat 62a.
Cheap Trendy lounge bar-restaurant.
Vegetarian Indian, Middle
Eastern and Mexican food. De Huyschkaemer
Map F5. Utrechtsestraat 137.
Janvier Split-level, atmospheric
Map F5. Amstelveld 12. designer bar.
Tel 020 626 1199.
Moderate Lellebel
French-style cuisine. Map F5. Utrechtsestraat 4.
Amsterdam’s infamous
Le Pêcheur dragshow bar.
Map E4. Reguliersdwarsstraat
32. Tel 020 624 3121. SHOPPING
Moderate Aronson Antiquairs
Chic, centrally located fish Map E5. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat
restaurant. 39.
Delftware, furniture and
Tujuh Maret porcelain.
Map F5. Utrechtsestraat 73.
Tel 020 427 9865. E H Ariëns Kappers/C P J
Moderate van der Peet BV
Delicious Indonesian dishes. Map E5. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 32.
Mid-16th to mid-20th century
See p80 for price codes. prints.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 43

MUSEUM QUARTER
until the late 1800s, the museum quarter was a
farming district. Then it was designated an area
of art and culture and Amsterdam’s great cultural
monuments were built: the Rijksmuseum,
Stedelijk museum, Concertgebouw, with the van
Gogh museum in 1973. The streets are named
after artists and intellectuals. To the west is
vondelpark – a pleasant fresh-air break.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Workshops Historic Buildings
Rijksmuseum 1 Hollandsche manege 7
Coster diamonds 2 vondelkerk 8
van Gogh museum 3 Parks
Stedelijk museum 4 vondelpark 6
Nederlands Filmmuseum 9
Concert Halls SEE ALSO
Concertgebouw 5
• Street Life p47

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Statue of the painter Pieter Aertsen (1509–75), Stedelijk Museum


44 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Rijksmuseum, an Amsterdam landmark

Rijksmuseum 1 17th-century Painting


dutch art moved away from
Map D6. Stadhouderskade. Open religious themes to animal
daily except 1 Jan. Adm charge. portraits, landscapes, still
This Amsterdam landmark lifes, seascapes and domes-
has an unrivalled collection tic interiors.
of dutch art. The huge 18th- and 19th-century
museum opened in 1885 Painting
amid bitter criticism because dutch painting continued
of its Neo-Gothic architec- the themes of the 17th
ture. The main building, century for portraits and still
now undergoing extensive lifes, but with satirical
renovation, will reopen in undertones.
2008. until then the high- Hague School and the
lights are on show in the Impressionists
philips Wing. Star paintings This group of dutch artists
are Rembrandt’s The Night formed in 1870 in den
Watch (1642), vermeer’s Haag. “Grey” School land-
The Kitchen Maid (1658) scapes have overcast skies
and St Elizabeth’s Day Flood and pearly colours.
(1500). The masterpieces Sculpture and Applied Arts
can be divided into eight Splendour of Renaissance
groups: furniture and decoration,
highlighting the Golden
Dutch History Age: superb glass and
The turbulent history of delftware.
the Netherlands is Prints and Drawings
encapsulated A million prints and
in this section, with drawings, emphasizing
maritime models and dutch works:
seascapes. Rembrandt’s etchings
Early Painting and and prints by
Foreign Schools European artists.
Along with Flemish Asiatic Art
and Italian portraits Early artefacts: Tang
are the irst specii- dynasty igurines,
cally “dutch” parchment paintings,
paintings, mostly Bronze of Mercury, granite rock carvings
religious art. southeast garden and inlaid boxes.
M U S E U M Q U A RT E R 45

Coster Diamonds 2
Map D6. Paulus Potterstraat.
Open daily. Free.
one of Amsterdam’s oldest
diamond factories, founded
in 1840. A replica of the
enormous Koh-i-Noor dia-
mond, one of the treasures
of the British crown jewels, New wing of Van Gogh Museum
is in the entrance hall. In the
factory goldsmiths and dia- to perfection. In 1990, an
mond-cutters produce cus- elegant, oval-shaped, free-
tomized jewellery in a range standing wing was added.
of styles, which are available The star van Gogh paintings
over the counter. For serious on show are The Bedroom
diamond-buyers, there are at Arles, Vase with
private sales rooms where Sunflowers and Wheatfield
discretion is assured. and Crows.

Stedelijk Museum 4
Map C6. TPG Building, near
Centraal Station (temporary
address during renovation). Open
daily except 1 Jan. Adm charge.
This museum was built to
house the collection of art
connoissseur Sophia de
Bruyn, who bequeathed it
to the city in 1890. In 1938,
it became the national
Façade of Coster Diamonds museum of modern art from
the mid-19th century to the
Van Gogh Museum 3 present day. Artists include
picasso, Chagall, mondriaan,
Map D6. Paulus Potterstraat. Cézanne and de Kooning.
Open daily except 1 Jan. The museum is being reno-
Adm charge. vated and reopens in 2008.
van Gogh’s younger brother
Theo, an art dealer, amassed
a collection of 200 of the
artist’s paintings and 500
drawings. These, combined
with around 850 letters by
van Gogh to Theo, and
selected works by his
friends and contemporaries,
form the core of the muse-
um’s outstanding collection.
The airy building, opened in
1973, sets off the paintings Stedelijk Museum
46 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Façade of the award-winning Concertgebouw

Concertgebouw 5 a year. It is popular with


locals for dog-walking, jog-
Map C6. Concertgebouwplein. ging and admiring the
Box office open daily. views. Free concerts are
Adm charge. given at the openluchtthe-
This Neo-dutch Renaissance ater (open-air theatre) or at
building (1888) boasts an the bandstand in the sum-
elaborate pediment and mer. The park has around
colonnaded Neo-Classical 100 plant species and 127
façade. The world-famous types of tree. Endemic
Grote zaal (main concert wildlife mixes with a colony
hall) has near-perfect of parakeets. Cows, sheep,
acoustics. In the 1980s, the goats, and even a lone llama
building was in danger of graze in the pastures.
collapse. New foundations
were laid, and the building
was restored and enlarged,
with the addition of a glass
extension and new
entrance. Though primarily
for concerts, it has become a
multi-purpose building, with
exhibitions, conferences,
meetings and occasional
boxing matches.
Façade of the Hollandsche Manege
Vondelpark 6
Hollandsche Manege 7
Map D5. Stadhouderskade. Open
24 hrs daily. Open-air theatre Map B5. Vondelstraat. Open
Jun–last week Aug, Wed–Sun. daily. Free.
Free.
The dutch riding school
vondelpark, designed in was irst sited on
English-landscape style with Leidsegracht, but in 1882 a
vistas, pathways and ponds, new building was opened,
opened in 1865. Today it based on vienna’s Spanish
welcomes 8 million visitors Riding School. Threatened
M U S E U M Q U A RT E R 47

with demolition in the


1980s, it was saved after a
public outcry. Reopened in
1986, it has been restored.
The Neo-Classical indoor
arena boasts gilded mirrors
and moulded horses’ heads
on elaborate plasterwork The terrace of Café Vertigo at the
walls. Some of the wrought- Filmmuseum
iron stalls remain.
Nederlands
Vondelkerk 8 Filmmuseum 9
Map C5. Vondelstraat. Closed to Map C5. Vondelpark. Library
the public. open Tue–Thu & Sat except public
This was the largest church hols. Box office open daily. Adm
charge for cinema.
designed by the architect of
the Centraal Station, and it vondelpark’s pavilion opened
was completed in 1880. in 1881 as a restaurant and
When ire broke out in café. In 1991, after renova-
1904, ireighters saved the tion, The Art deco interior
nave of the church by forc- of the Cinema parisien,
ing the burning tower to fall Amsterdam’s irst cinema
away into vondelpark. A (1910), was moved into one
new tower was added later. of the rooms. Now an
The church was deconsec- important ilm museum, it
rated in 1979, then converted shows more than 1,000 ilms
into ofices in 1985. a year.street liferestaurants

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
Brasserie van Baerle Bakkerswinkel van
Map C6. Van Baerlestraat 158. Nineties
Tel 020 679 1532. Map D7. Roelof Hartstraat 68.
Moderate Bakery is ideal for breakfast,
Polished contemporary lunch or tea, but gets crowded.
brasserie, popular with Dutch
celebrities. Great wine list and Café Ebeling
imaginative French cuisine. Map C5. Overtoom 52.
Relaxed, spacious, trendy bar.
CoBrA Café
Map D6. Hobbemastraat 118. Café Toussaint
Tel 020 470 0111. Map C5. Bosboom
Moderate Toussaintstraat 26.
Designer café, as an ode to Charming café-bar. Open
the CoBrA art movement. kitchen serves delicious lunches
Wine and dine in the restau- and dinners.
rant, or try the stylish sushi
bar. Van Altena Zeebanket
Map D5. Stadhouderskade 41.
See p80 for price codes. Eat raw herring, Dutch style.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 49

PLANTAGE
Known as the “plantation”, this became one of
Amsterdam’s irst suburbs from 1848. The tree-
lined streets of Artis and Hortus Botanicus are
still popular places to live. From Werf ’t Krom-
hout there is a ine view of de Gooyer Windmill,
one of the few surviving in Amsterdam.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums Sights of Scientific Interest
de Burcht Artis 4
(vakbondsmuseum) 2 planetarium 6
Hollandsche Schouwburg 3 Aquarium 7
Geologisch museum 5 Botanical Gardens
museum ’t Kromhout q Hortus Botanicus
Nederlands Amsterdam 1
Scheepvaartmuseum w
Theatres
verzetsmuseum t
Koninklijk Theater Carré e
Historic Buildings and
Structures SEE ALSO
Entrepotdok 8
muiderpoort 9 • Street Life p53
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Replica of the Amsterdam at the Scheepvaart Museum


50 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Hortus Botanicus
Amsterdam 1
Map G4. Plantage Middenlaan.
Open daily & public hols except
25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm charge.
This botanical garden has
one of the world’s largest
botanical collections. In Tropical plants, Hortus Botanicus
1993, a modern glass and
aluminium construction was Hollandsche
opened to house tropical, Schouwburg 3
sub-tropical and desert
plants. There is also a but- Map G4. Plantage Middenlaan.
terfly house and a glass- Open daily except Yom Kippur.
domed Palm House (1912) Free.
with a 400-year-old cycad A former theatre, this is a
(palm fern). A café, terrace memorial to the 104,000
and museum are sited in the Dutch Jewish victims of
restored Orangery. World War II sent from here
to concentration camps.
De Burcht The façade and foyer house
(Vakbondsmuseum) 2 an education centre.
Upstairs, exhibits explain
Map G4. Henri Polaklaan. Open the theatre’s dark role.
Tue–Fri, Sun except public hols.
Adm charge.
Artis 4
This small museum outlines
the history of the Dutch Map H4. Plantage Kerklaan.
Trade Union movement. Its Open daily. Adm charge.
beautiful interior has murals Founded in 1838, this is the
by artist Richard Ronald Netherlands’ oldest surviv-
Holst of the Amsterdam ing zoological complex. It
School and a spectacular has more than 5,000 animal
arched foyer. species, three greenhouses,
the Planetarium, Geologisch
Museum, Aquarium,
Amfibarium and Zoölogisch
Museum. African savannah
and South American pampas
habitats have been recreated.

Geologisch Museum 5
Map G4. Plantage Kerklaan.
Open daily. Adm charge covered
by Artis ticket.
This museum offers an
entertaining introduction to
the earth. Displays include
Decorative tiles on the staircase of the evolution of life on earth
the Vakbondsmuseum and the interaction of earth’s
PL A N TA G E 51

elements, with rotating


components to represent the
biosphere (living things),
hydrosphere (water), atmos-
phere (air) and geosphere
(earth’s crust). upstairs are
extensive displays of fossils,
minerals and stones.

Planetarium 6 Tropical fish at the Aquarium

Map G4. Plantage Kerklaan. species of fish and marine


Open daily. Adm charge covered animals that can be viewed
by Artis ticket. at close quarters. They
The astronomy show include invertebrates,
here takes place piranhas, sharks,
hourly. A projector marine turtles, vivid
reproduces the coral fish and sea
night sky and shows horses. The
positions of planets Amfibarium in the
and constellations. basement contains
Stellar and planetary Ammonite fossil frogs, toads and sala-
systems are mapped at the Geologisch manders in all shapes,
out using videos, museum colours and sizes.
models, photos and push-
button exhibits. There are Entrepotdok 8
also educational computer
games and displays on Map H4.
exploration and astronomy. The redeveloped quayside
of Entrepotdok is now a
Aquarium 7 lively complex of offices,
homes and eating places.
Map H5. Plantage Kerklaan. Some of the original façades
Aquarium and Zoölogisch have been preserved, and
Museums open daily. Adm charge the interiors have been
covered by Artis ticket.
opened up to provide an
The Aquarium’s four aquatic inner courtyard. Café tables
systems contain almost 500 are set out along the canal.

Spout-gable façades of former warehouses along Entrepotdok


52 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

it was built around 1725, the


first corn mill to use stream-
lined sails. In a poor state by
1925, it was restored by the
city council. Since then, the
lower part of the mill has
been a private home.

Museum ’t Kromhout q
Map H4. Hoogte Kadijk. Open
Tue. Free.
This museum is one of the
oldest working shipyards in
Amsterdam. Ships were built
here as early as 1757. As
ships got bigger, the small
yard turned to building
lighter craft for inland water-
ways; now it does only
restoration and repair work.
The grand dome and clock tower dedicated to the history of
of the Muiderpoort marine engineering, it dis-
plays engines, maritime
Muiderpoort 9 photographs, ephemera and
a well-equipped forge.
Map H5. Alexanderplein. Closed
to the public.
Nederlands
Formerly a city gate, the Scheepvaartmuseum w
muiderpoort was built in
about 1770. The central Map H3. Kattenburgerplein.
archway of this Classical Open Tue–Sun & public hols, Mon
structure is topped with a mid-Jun to mid-Sep except 25
Dec, 1 Jan, 30 Apr. Adm charge.
dome and clock tower.
Napoleon entered the city This vast Classical sandstone
through this gate in 1811 building, dating from 1656,
and, according to legend, was built round a huge
forced the citizens to feed courtyard and supported by
and house his troops.

De Gooyer Windmill 0
Map J4. Funenkade. Closed
to the public.
of Amsterdam’s six
remaining windmills,
the octagonal wooden
de Gooyer (also known
as the Funenmolen) is
the most central.
dominating the view Royal Barge at the Nederlands
down the Nieuwevaart, Scheepvaartmuseum
PL A N TA G E 53

18,000 piles driven into the Amstelsluizen r


bed of the oosterdok. The
Arsenal of the dutch Navy Map F5. Free.
until 1973, it was converted This row of wooden sluice
into the Netherlands gates spanning the Amstel
maritime museum and is river forms part of a system
arranged over several floors. of sluices and pumping sta-
It is again being renovated, tions that ensure the city’s
but the voC ship canals do not stagnate. Four
Amsterdam is open and part times a week in summer and
of the collection is on show twice a week in winter, the
at other locations. sluices are closed while
fresh water from lakes north
Koninklijk of the city flows into
Theater Carré e Amsterdam’s canals.
Map F5. Amstel. Box office open
Verzetsmuseum t
daily. Adm charge.
originally a wooden struc- Map G4. Plantage Kerklaan.
ture built for the Carré Open daily except 25 Dec,1 Jan,
Circus in 1868 on the 30 Apr. Adm charge.
banks of the Amstel, The Resistance
in 1887 the theatre museum has memo-
was rebuilt to rabilia recording the
include a circus ring activities of 25,000
and a stage. The dutch Resistance
Classical façade is workers in World
richly decorated with War II. on display
sculpted heads of are film clips, slide
dancers, jesters and shows, photos, false
clowns. The Christmas documents, weaponry,
circus is still one of the equipment and
theatre’s annual high- exhibits showing
lights, but for the rest where refugees hid. It
of the year the stage Carving on façade was voted best his-
is taken over by con- of Koninklijk toric museum in
certs and musicals. Theater Carré 2002 and 2003.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
La Rive/Intercontinental Media Café Plantage
Amstel Hotel Map G4. Plantage Kerklaan 36.
Map G6. Prof Tulpplein 1. Busy spot with terrace dining.
Tel 020 622 6060. Live music.
Expensive
Grand restaurant on the Eik en Linde
Amstel. Traditional to contem- Map H5. Plantage Middenlaan
porary dishes. A gastronomic 22.
treat. Wines and service are An archetypal Dutch “brown”
perfectly matched. bar, popular with locals.
See p80 for price codes.
A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA 55

FURTHER AFIELD
parts of Nieuw zuid (New South) also show the
innovation of Amsterdam School architects.
many ine buildings are located in the de
dageraad Housing complex and streets around
the olympic quarter. The charming, historic
small town of ouderkerk aan de Amstel nestles
on the city’s southern fringe. Antique trams take
visitors from the Electrische museumtramlijn to
lakes, woods and parkland in Amsterdamse Bos,
while Amstelpark’s more formal horticulture can
be viewed from a miniature train. The suburbs
also have a clutch of instructive museums.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Monuments, Museums and Exhibition Halls
Buildings and Districts Tropenmuseum 2
Frankendael 1 Nemo Science Centre
de dageraad Housing 5 Amsterdam 3
ouderkerk aan de Amstel 8 Gemeentearchief
olympic quarter 9 Amsterdam 4
Parks and Gardens Amsterdam RAI 6
Amstelpark 7 Electrische
Amsterdamse Bos q museumtramlijn 0
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Moored sailing boat on the river at Ouderkerk aan de Amstel


56 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

as stone friezes of peasants


planting rice. Renovated in
1978, the Royal Tropical
Institute opened a museum
on indigenous peoples in
the tropics.

Ignatius van Logteren’s fountain in Nemo Science Center


the grounds of the Frankendael Amsterdam 3
Oosterdok. Open Tue–Sun &
Frankendael 1
public hols except 25 Dec, 1 Jan,
Middenweg. House closed to the 30 Apr. Adm charge.
public. Rear gardens open In 1997, Holland’s national
dawn–dusk. Free. science centre moved to this
during the early 1700s, dazzling curved building,
many country retreats were which protrudes 30 m (99 ft)
built south of plantage over water. Nemo presents
middenlaan. Louis xIv-style technological innovations in
Frankendael is the last sur- a way that allows visitors’
vivor. The best views of the creativity full expression.
ornamented façade are from Interact with virtual reality,
middenweg, which is also operate the latest industrial
the best place to see the equipment, harness science
1714 fountain. The rear gar- to create art, take part in
dens offer a peaceful refuge. games, experiments, work-
shops and demonstrations
or see lectures, ilms and
stage shows. In summer the
roof is turned into a beach
where visitors can picnic
and enjoy the views.

Gemeentearchief
Amsterdam 4
Amsteldijk. Open Mon–Sat except
Recreated nomad’s felt tent from public hols. Free.
Afghanistan in the Tropenmuseum This elaborate 19th-century
building, with its ornate
Tropenmuseum 2 Neo-Renaissance façade,
has been home to the city’s
Linnaeusstraat. Open daily except municipal archives since
25 Dec, 1 Jan, 30 Apr, 5 May. 1914. The oldest document
Tropenmuseum Junior Wed, Sat, is the Toll of privilege of
school hols & most public hols.
1275. City records include a
Adm charge.
register of baptisms, marri-
This vast complex for hous- ages and burials dating back
ing the dutch Colonial to 1550 and a collection of
Institute was inished in drawings, books, news-
1926. Its exterior is decorated papers and audiovisual
with imperial symbols, such material. In mid-2006, it
F U RT H E R A F I E L D 57

condemn slums and rethink


housing policy. The archi-
tects used a technique called
“apron architecture” in
which an underlayer of con-
crete allows for tucks and
folds in the brick exterior,
which was then subtly col-
oured and interspersed with
decorative doors and win-
dows. Each house mirrors
the one opposite and there
is a corner tower at the end
of every block.

The late-19th-century façade of Amsterdam RAI 6


the Gemeentearchief Amsterdam
Europaplein. Open for exhibitions.
moves to the ABN Bank Adm charge.
building, vijzelstraat 34. one of the largest exhibition
and conference centres in
De Dageraad Housing 5 the country, the RAI hosts
more than 1,000 events
Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat. Closed annually, from cabaret to
to the public. horse shows and trade fairs.
one of the best examples of The city’s irst trade fair, in
the Amsterdam School 1893, was for bicycles. Later,
architecture, the de cars were an annual event,
dageraad (the dawn) hous- so it became the “RAI”
ing project (built from 1918 (Rijwiel Automobiel
to 1923) was developed fol- Industrie). The present com-
lowing the revolutionary plex, opened in 1961, now
1901 Housing Act, which boasts 11 exhibition halls
forced the city council to and 22 congress halls.

Interior of Amsterdam RAI with trade fair in progress


58 A MSTERDA M AREA BY AREA

Ouderkerk aan de
Amstel 8
Wester Amstel Garden open daily.
Free.
This pretty village has
waterfront restaurants and
cafés. A fine 18th-century
church stands opposite the
Beth Haim jewish cemetery.
The skyline is dominated by
the 50-m (160-ft) spire of the
urbanuskerk, a Catholic
Amstelpark’s Rieker windmill church dating from 1867.
Two 18th-century country
Amstelpark 7 houses are a short walk
upriver along Amsteldijk.
Europaboulevard. Open dawn to
dusk. Free.
Olympic Quarter 9
This large park, in the sub-
urb of Buitenveldert, was Free.
created in 1972. Its attrac- development of the west
tions include a rose garden, side of Nieuw zuid began
rhododendron walk and during the run-up to the
model garden with nursery. 1928 olympic Games. The
Children can enjoy a play- stark lines and soaring torch
ground, pony rides, minigolf tower of the stadium recall
and mini-football. The well- the work of architect Frank
preserved Rieker windmill Lloyd Wright. The bridge
was built in 1636. Art exhib- across the Noorder Amstel
itions are held in the Glazen Kanaal at olympiaplein, and
Huis and papillon Gallery. the Amsterdams Lyceum,
There is a miniature train are typical examples of the
from Easter to october. Amsterdam School design.

Peaceful waterfront at Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, south of Amsterdam


F U RT H E R A F I E L D 59

Pedalos on a lake in the Amsterdamse Bos

Electrische dens, the Bosmuseum, with


Museumtramlijn 0 exhibits about the park,
nature reserves and the lakes
Amstelveenseweg. Open Sun, at Amstelveense and Kleine
Easter–Oct, also Wed pm and on poels. planned walks, cycle
request, Jun–Aug. Adm charge. paths, bridleways, water
This tram ride operates from sports and a summer open-
Haarlemmermeerstation and air theatre are also available.
the southern tip of Amster-
damse Bos. The tramcars Schiphol Airport w
date from 1910 to 1950. The
fleet is run along traditional Evert van Beekstraat.
lines, and cars depart regu- This modern airport is one
larly from either terminus. of the most efficient and
A 20-minute user-friendly, with
one-way colour-coded
journey pro- signs to help
vides a good visitors navi-
view of the gate around.
olympic It has many
Stadium. Classic tram from the Museumtramlijn attractions
to help fill
Amsterdamse Bos q time when waiting for a
flight. In 2002, an annex of
Amstelveenseweg. Open daily. the Rijksmuseum was
Free. Theatre open Jul & Aug. opened, showing classic
This 800-ha (2,000-acre) works of art. The airport
woodland park, the city’s also has a casino, as well as
largest recreational area, is a haven in the form of a
interspersed with grassy chair massage. There are
meadows, lakes, waterways also a place of worship, a
and a hill. Highlights vast number of shops, bars
include huge European and restaurants, and a
bison, a goat farm, the panorama Terrace offering
vogeleiland botanical gar- great views of the aircraft.
BE YOND A MSTERDA M 61

DAY TRIPS FROM AMSTERDAM


many places of interest are within easy reach of
Amsterdam, which is at the hub of the dutch
transport system with fast road and rail links to
towns and cities throughout the Netherlands. To
the west is Haarlem, just 15 minutes away. To
the southwest are the university town of Leiden;
the country’s political capital, den Haag; and
delft, where the famous blue and white pottery
is made. To the south lies the historic city of
utrecht. In spring, cycling is the ideal way to
take in the beauty of the bulbfields.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Haarlem 1 Tour
Leiden 3 Tour of the Bulbfields 2
den Haag 4
delft 5 SEE ALSO
utrecht 6
• Street Life pp63, 67, 69,
71, 73

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The Nieuwe kerk in Delft’s market square


62 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

Haarlem 1
Haarlem is the centre of the dutch printing, pharma-
ceutical and bulb-growing industries. The delightful
brick-paved lanes around the Grote markt are at its
heart, with most sites within walking distance. This
lively square is packed with ancient buildings, cafés,
restaurants, bookshops, antique and food shops.
shape of an
eagle, choirstalls
with coats of
arms, miseri-
cords carved
with animals
and human
heads, a lam-
boyant organ
and a stone slab
marking Frans
Tree-lined market square of Grote Markt Hals’s grave.

Frans Hals Museum Stadhuis


Groot Heiligland. Open Tue–Sun Grote Markt. Open by appt only
& public hols except 25 Dec, or go to reception. Free.
1 Jan. Adm charge. Haarlem’s town hall is an
Frans Hals (1580–1666) odd mix of architectural
introduced a new realism styles from 1250. The oldest
into painting. In 1913, the part is the medieval
old men’s Home (the object banqueting hall, with por-
of one of Hals’s paintings) traits of dutch counts.
became this museum devoted
to his work and that of other De Hallen (Vleeshal and
dutch artists. Verweyhal)
Grote Markt. Open Tue–Sun &
Grote Kerk
public hols except 25 Dec,1 Jan.
Oude Groenmarkt. Open Adm charge.
Mon–Sat. Adm charge. The Halls is the name for
The enormous Gothic two buildings that are
ediice of Grote Kerk part of the Frans
(1400–1550) and its Hals museum. The
bell tower dominate verweyhal exhibits
the market square. Expressionism, the
Inside are a high, Cobra School,
delicately pat- Impressionism and
terned, cedarwood contemporary
ceiling, white upper works. The vlee-
walls, 28 coloured shal (1602) holds
columns, a choir Detail on Vleeshal façade modern art
screen in the by Lieven de key exhibitions.
HAARLEM 63

Amsterdamse Poort VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Near Amsterdamsevaart. Closed Rail station: Stationsplein.


to the public. Tourist information:
Stationsplein, tel (0900) 616
The poort was one of a 1600. Markets: Mon, Fri, Sat.
complex of 12 gates guard- Haarlem Jazz Festival:
ing transport routes in and mid-Aug. www.vvvzk.nl.
out of Haarlem. The gate
was built in 1355, but much
of the brickwork and gables After extensive restoration
date from the late 1400s. this almshouse was opened
in 1995 as Haarlem’s princi-
Teylers Museum pal historical museum.
Spaarne. Open Tue–Sun & public
hols except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm
charge.
This was Holland’s irst
major public museum,
founded 1778. Its collection
of fossils, drawings and
scientiic paraphernalia is
displayed in Neo-Classical Tiles inside Haarlem Station
splendour in a series of
18th-century rooms. Haarlem Station
Stationsplein.
St Elisabeth’s Gasthuis
Historisch Museum The Netherlands’ irst rail-
Kennemerland way line opened in 1839,
between Haarlem and
Groot Heiligland. Open Tue–Sun Amsterdam. Between
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Free. 1905–8, the original 1842
Haarlem is well known for station was reworked in Art
its hofjes (almshouses). This Nouveau style. Inside,
one was built in 1610, brightly coloured tiles depict
around a pretty courtyard. modes of transport.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
De Lachende Javaan In Den Uiver
Frankestraat 27. Riviersmarkt 13.
Tel 023 532 8792. Lively Dutch “brown” bar with
Cheap occasional live music.
The finest Javan dishes.
Café 1900
Applause Bartelijorisstraat 10.
Grote Markt 23a. Popular café-bar with 1930s
Tel 023 531 1425. interior. Serves drinks and
Moderate light meals.
Smart, Dutch cuisine.
See p80 for price codes.
64 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

A Tour of the Bulbfields 2


A 30-km (19-mile) strip between Haarlem and
Leiden, the Bloembollenstreek is the Netherlands’
most important bulb-growing area. From late
january, the polders bloom with vividly coloured
bulbs – early crocuses, then tulips around mid-April,
followed by late-blooming flowers like lilies into late
May. You can travel by car, take a tour or hire a
bicycle at Haarlem railway station to view the
bulbfields, dropping it off in Leiden.

The Netherlands’ huge, colourful bulbfields are an unforgettable sight

1 De Cruquius Museum colours of millions of bulbs


in bloom.
Its exhibits explain how
polders and dams work and 5 Lisse
how they keep the sea and
flood water at bay. A small bulb-museum can be
found at Lisse, and boat trips
2 Linnaeushof are available on nearby
Kager Plassen lake.
This huge park has one of
Europe’s largest adventure 6 Sassenheim
playgrounds.
West of the town lie the re-
3 Vogelenzang mains of Burcht Teylingen,
an 11th-century castle.
The first nurseries were
established here in 1789. 7 Katwijk

4 Keukenhof A rare, early-17th-century


lighthouse, to the north of
This park greets you with this seaside town, stands at
heady scents and brilliant the Oude Rijn’s mouth.
A TOUR OF THE BULBFIELDS 65

TIPS FOR DRIVERS THE BULBFIELDS


Starting point: Haarlem.
Length: Approx 30 km
(19 miles). Stopping-off
points: In addition to the
places named below, all of
which have a selection of
restaurants, cafés and
bars, it is worth diverting
to Noordwijk aan Zee, a Red tulips in full flower

lively seaside town with


a lovely dune-backed beach.

Springtime in the
bulbfields

0 kilometres 5

0 miles 2.5

KEY
Tour route
Roads
J Viewpoint

Tulips on sale in April


66 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

Leiden 3
Leiden’s university, the oldest and most prestigious
in the Netherlands, was founded in 1575. An impor-
tant crossroads on a branch of the Rijn (Rhine),
Leiden (itself dating from Roman times) grew pros-
perous. It has some exceptional museums, book-
shops and cafés, and is Rembrandt’s birthplace.
Hortus Botanicus der
Rijksuniversiteit Leiden
Rapenburg. Open daily Apr–Nov,
Sun–Fri Dec–Mar, except 3 Oct,
25 Dec–1 Jan. Adm charge.
Leiden’s botanical garden,
Lift bridge on the Oude Rijn, Leiden founded in 1587, contains
shrubs and trees, as well as
Stedelijk Museum De a reconstruction of an origi-
Lakenhal nal walled garden, hothouses
full of orchids, rose gardens
Oude Singel. Open Tue–Sun and colourful beds of tulips
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. planted around ponds.
Adm charge.
The Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) Museum Boerhaave
was the headquarters of the
city’s cloth trade. It houses Lange St Agnietenstraat. Open
the municipal museum, with Tue–Sun & public hols except
modern art and furniture 1 Jan, 3 Oct. Adm charge.
from the 1500s onwards. The museum is devoted to
The highlight is Lucas van the development of science
Leyden’s Renaissance trip- in the Netherlands. It con-
tych of The Last Judgment tains reconstructions of an
(1526–7). There is also a anatomy theatre and hospi-
wing displaying silverware, tal wards, and many other
furniture and local weaving. fascinating exhibits.

Hortus Botanicus
LEIDEN 67

Rijksmuseum voor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST


Volkenkunde Rail station: Stationsplein.
Steenstraat. Open Tue–Sun Tourist information:
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 3 Oct. Stationsplein, tel (0900) 222
Adm charge. 2333. Markets: Wed, Sat.
Festivals: Leids Summer: first
This ethnological museum week July; Viering van Leidens
has collections from non- Ontzet: 3 Oct.
western cultures, linking
together to create a world-
wide cultural journey. De Burcht
Nieuwe Rijn. Battlements open
Stedelijk Molenmuseum de
daily.
Valk
This 12th-century fortress
Binnenvestgracht. Open Tue–Sun with crenellated battle-
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 3 Oct. ments, sits on a man-made
Adm charge. mound thought to be of
This grain mill, built in 1743, Saxon origin. The top of the
is Leiden’s last remaining. citadel offers superb views.
Seven storeys high, it is now
restored to its original work- Rijksmuseum van
ing state. The tour includes Oudheden
an exhibition on the history
of dutch windmills. Rapenburg. Open Tue–Sun except
25 Dec, 1 Jan, 3 Oct. Adm charge.

Pieterskerk This museum of antiquities


is Leiden’s main attraction.
Pieterskerkhof. Open daily except The highlight is the Egyptian
3 Oct, 31 Dec. Free. Temple of Taffeh, dating
This 15th-century Gothic from the 1st century Ad.
church, now a community There are also displays of
centre, is worth visiting for musical instruments, textiles
its austere interior and its and shoes, Etruscan bronze-
organ (1642), enclosed in work and fragments of
gilded woodwork. Roman mosaic and frescoes.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS Engelbertha Hoeve
La Bota Hoge Morsweg 140.
Herensteeg 9. Tel 071 576 5000.
Tel 071 514 6340. Moderate
Moderate Classic French dishes.
Excellent-value Dutch food.
BARS AND CAFES
De Jonge Koekop M’n Broer
Lange Mare 60. Kloksteeg 7.
Tel 071 514 1937. Quiet café-bar offering a
Moderate range of tasty light meals.
Innovative food from France
and much further afield. See p80 for price codes.
68 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

Den Haag 4
den Haag (’s-Gravenhage or The Hague) is the
political capital of the Netherlands, home to presti-
gious institutions such as the dutch parliament and
the International Court of justice.

major rebuilding in the


1980s. Its most impressive
feature is a stained-glass
window, which depicts
Charles v kneeling at the
feet of the virgin mary.

2 Rijksmuseum
Hofvijver and parliament buildings Gevangenpoort
Buitenhof. Open Tue–Sun except
1 Grote Kerk
1 Jan, 25 Dec. Adm charge.
Ronde de Grote Kerk. Open for The Gevangenpoort (prison
exhibitions (usually Jul–Aug). Free. gate), originally the main
In its present form, the gateway to the castle of the
Grote Kerk dates mainly counts of Holland, is today
from 1539 but underwent a prison museum.
DEN HAAG CITY CENTRE

Grote Kerk 1
Rijksmuseum
Gevangenpoort 2
Galerij prins
Willem v 3
museum Bredius 4
Ridderzaal 5
Haags Historisch
museum 6
mauritshuis 7
KEY

0 metres 200 h Parking


5 Church
0 yards 200
DEN HAAG 69

3 Galerij Prins Willem V VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Buitenhof. Closed for renovations Rail stations: Koningin


until 2007. Adm charge. Julianaplein, Centraal Station;
Stationsplein, Station
prince William v’s collection Hollands Spoor (HS). Tourist
of old master paintings is information: Koningin
the oldest art gallery in the Julianaplein, tel (0900) 340
Netherlands. 3505. Markets: Mon, Wed,
Fri, Sat. Festivals: Vlaggetjesdag
4 Museum Bredius Scheveningen: last Sat in May
or first Sat in Jun; North Sea
Lange Vijverberg. Open Tue–Sun Jazz Festival: mid-Jul.
except 1 Jan, 25 Dec. Adm charge.
A vast collection of 17th- 6 Haags Historisch
century art by dutch masters Museum
and other artists is on
display, as well as antiques. Korte Vijverberg. Open Tue–Sun
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm charge.
The museum tells the story
of the city’s growth since the
middle Ages featuring paint-
ing and furnishings.

7 Mauritshuis
The 17th-century façade of the Korte Vijverberg. Open Tue–Sun &
Haags Historisch Museum public hols except 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
Adm charge.
5 Ridderzaal
one of the inest galleries in
Binnenhof. Open Mon–Sat the Netherlands, this 1644
(phone in advance) except public mansion was built in dutch
hols. Adm charge. Classical style. The home of
The 13th-century Gothic the Royal picture Gallery
Ridderzaal is used for state since 1821, its collection is
occasions, and visitors can small, but almost every
tour parts of it when parlia- painting is a superb work by
ment is not sitting. one of the old masters.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS The Raffles
Aubergerie Javastraat 63.
Nieuwe Schoolstraat 19. Tel 070 345 8587.
Tel 070 364 8078. Moderate
Moderate Delicious Indonesian food.
Subtle French dishes.
BARS AND CAFÉS
Julien Le Café Hathor
Vos in Tuinstraat 2a. Laliestraat 22.
Tel 070 365 8602. Laid-back café-bar with
Moderate canalside terrace.
Traditional French offerings. See p80 for price codes.
70 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

Delft 5
The charming town of delft is known the world
over for its blue-and-white pottery, but is equally
famous as the resting place of William of orange
(1533–84), one of the most celebrated igures in
dutch history. This sleepy old town (dating from
1075), with its Gothic and Renaissance houses lining
tree-shaded canals, was also the birthplace of artist
jan vermeer (1632–75).
Oude Kerk
Heilige Geestherkhof. Open
Mon–Sat. Adm charge.
A church has existed on this
site since the 1200s, but the
original building has been
added to many times. The
ornate clock tower was built
in the 1300s; the Flamboyant Coat of arms on façade of the
Legermuseum
Gothic north transept was
added in the early 1500s. Koninklijk Nederlands
The interior is dominated by Legermuseum
the carved wooden pulpit.
jan vermeer’s burial place is Korte Geer. Open daily except
marked by a stone tablet. 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Free.
The Legermuseum (army
Nieuwe Kerk museum) is housed in the
Armamentarium, the former
Markt. Open Mon–Sat. arsenal of the old West
Adm charge. Friesland and Holland
much of the original struc- provinces. Built in 1692, it
ture (built 1383–1510) was is full of weaponry, military
restored by 1872, with the uniforms, battle models and
addition of a statuesque armoured vehicles. Exhibits
100-m (320-ft) tower to the trace developments in
Gothic façade. dutch military history
The dutch since the middle Ages
royal family’s up to its peacekeep-
burial vaults are ing role for the
in the crypt. The united Nations.
interior’s most
prominent feature is Stedelijk Museum
the stately mausoleum Het Prinsenhof
of William of orange.
The richly decorated St Agathaplein. Open
tomb is carved from Tue–Sun except 25 Dec,
black and white mar- 1 Jan. Adm charge.
ble. At its foot is This tranquil Gothic
a trumpeting Statue of Prince William of building, once a
angel. Orange in Nieuwe Kerk convent, houses
DELFT 71

delft’s historical museum, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST


but it is better known as the
Rail station: Stationsplein.
place where William of
Tourist information:
orange was assassinated. Hippolytusbuurt, tel (0900)
The bullet holes in the main 515 1555. Markets: Thu, Sat.
staircase wall are still visible. Festivals: Jazz/Blues Festival:
on show is a rare collection mid-Aug; Delft Dag: last Sat
of antique delftware, tapes- in Aug.
tries, silverware, medieval
sculpture and a series of Museum Lambert van
portraits of the dutch royal Meerten
family, from William of
orange to today. Oude Delft. Open Tue–Sun except
25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm charge.

Volkenkundig Museum This small museum is located


Nusantara in an elegantly furnished,
19th-century mansion, with
St Agathaplein. Open Tue–Sun paintings and architectural
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. details salvaged from local
Adm charge. 17th- and 18th-century
When William of orange buildings. Highlights are the
took over the prinsenhof in antique hand-painted delft-
1572, the nuns moved into ware tiles and tile pictures.
one of its wings across the
square. This is now the
Nusantara ethnological
museum. on show is its
small but fascinating collec-
tion of carvings, textiles,
masks, jewellery and musi-
cal instruments brought
back from Indonesia by
traders working for the
dutch East India Company.
The shop sells unusual Fine gabled façades along
modern Indonesian crafts. Binnenwaterslot in Delft

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
Le Vieux Jean Locus Publicus
Heilige Geestkerkhof 3. Brabants Turfmark 67
Tel 015 213 0433. Popular bar with a large array
Moderate of beers.
Original French cooking.
SHOPPING
De Zwethheul De Porcelijne Lampetkan
Rotterdamseweg 480. Vrouwenregt 5.
Tel 010 470 4166. Antique delftware at compar-
Expensive atively reasonable prices.
Sumptuous menus in this
Michelin 2-star restaurant. See p80 for price codes.
72 D AY T R I P S F R O M A M S T E R D A M

Utrecht 6
Founded by the Romans, utrecht was an important
religious centre in the middle Ages. Its churches and
monasteries today stand alongside modern blocks
and a vast shopping complex. The city’s old Canal
is lined with broad quays, cellar bars and cafés.

1 Nationaal Museum van


Speelklok tot Pierement
The Buurkerk on Steenweg. Open
Tue–Sun except 25 Dec, 1 Jan,
30 Apr. Adm charge.
This magical place is housed
in utrecht’s oldest church,
the 13th-century Buurkerk. Organ in the Speelklok Museum
It displays mechanical musi-
cal instruments from the and pianolas are demon-
1700s to the present day. strated on sing-along,
Fairground organs, carillons, dance-along guided tours.
0 metres 200
UTRECHT CITY CENTRE
0 yards 200

Nationaal museum van


Speelklok tot pierement 1
domtoren
and domkerk 2 KEY
pieterskerk 3 h Parking
museum
Catharijneconvent 4 5 Church
UTRECHT 73

2 Domtoren/Domkerk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Via ‘Rondom’, Domplein/Achter Rail station: Hoog Catharijne.


den Dom. Domtoren open daily Tourist information: Vinken-
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm burg Str, tel (0900) 128 8732.
charge. Domkerk open daily. Free. Markets: Wed, Sat. Festivals:
Holland Festival Oude Muziek:
The 1382 domtoren tower is end Aug–beg Sep; Netherlands
112 m (367 ft) tall. Building Film Festival: end Sep–beg Oct.
of the domkerk (utrecht’ s
cathedral) began in 1254.
Scorel (1495–1562), who
3 Pieterskerk was influenced by Italian
Renaissance painting.
Pieterskerkhof. Open 1st or 3rd Another highlight is the
Sat (but check). Free. Schröderhuis on Prins
The church (1048) is a rare Hendriklaan, with displays
dutch example of German of Dutch interior design.
Romanesque architecture.

4 Museum
Catharijneconvent
Lange Nieuwstraat. Closed for
renovation until spring 2006.
Adm charge.
The beautiful former con- Guard’s box at Spoorwegmuseum
vent of St Catherine (1562)
is now home to a museum Nederlands
displaying medieval art. Spoorwegmuseum
Maliebaanstation. Open Tue–Sun
Centraal Museum
except public hols. Adm charge.
Nicolaas Kerkhof. Open Tue–Sun The dutch railway head-
except 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 30 Apr. quarters is based in utrecht,
Adm charge. and the city has a superb
At the heart of the collection railway museum with much
are portraits by artist jan van equipment and rolling stock.

STREET LIFE
RESTAURANTS BARS AND CAFÉS
De Raadspensionaris Stadskasteel Oudaen
Krommestraat 52. Oude Gracht 99.
Tel 033 462 3006. Typical bar with beer brewed
Moderate on the premises. Also serves
A quality, fixed-price menu. Dutch food.

Goesting De Witte Ballons


Veeartsenijpad 150. Tel 030 Lijnmarkt 10–12.
273 3346. Friendly, low-key bar.
Moderate
Stylish dishes served. See p80 for price codes.
74 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N

Getting Around
Enjoy this “venice of the North” by bicycle (half a
million people use their cycles daily) or on foot.
A canal tour is a great way of seeing the city’s
many splendid sights – and its integrated public
transport system is both efficient and inexpensive.

Walking from the right. Beware of


trams (they take priority).
Wear sensible shoes as the
cobbled streets can Driving
be tiring and haz-
ardous. Look both The city is ill-suited
ways before cross- to motor trafic.
ing the tram routes parking is
and mind the many dificult, clamping
bicycles. most Pedestrian crossing prevalent and theft
pedestrian crossings rife. Book a secure
have lights, but beware facility at your hotel; or
those without: cars do not park on the outskirts of the
need to stop for you. city and use the “p&R”
(park and ride) scheme.
By Bicycle
Parking
Bring your own bicycle,
hire one or join a cycle use a car park, rather than
tour – this is the ideal way a meter or roadside space,
of seeing Amsterdam. The and remove valuables and
city’s trafic system is biased radio if parking in a public
in favour of bicycles, with place. meters take coins
an excellent network of and/or parking cards and
integrated cycle lanes are limited to two hours.
(fietspaden), dedicated road Several 24-hour covered car
signs and trafic lights, plus parks operate. All city car
special routes linking the parks are denoted by a
city. Remember to drive on white p on a square blue
the right; motorists and background; a three-day
other cyclists have priority parking pass costs €23.
when entering your road
Taxis

Get one at a taxi rank, or


phone the 24-hour TCA
Taxicentrale (677 7777).
Rates are high.

Travelling by Tram

The blue and white trams


Cycle tour crossing Nieuwe operate from 6am to mid-
Herengracht night on weekdays, slightly
GETTING AROUND 75

Tram and Bus Tickets

Each ticket strip covers one


zone for metro, tram or
bus. Counting from the top,
leave blank the number of
strips needed for your jour-
An Amsterdam tram ney by folding them back,
then stamp the next one in
later on weekends. Blue a machine. most sights are
boards at the tram and bus in the central zone, so only
stops give the name of the two strips per person trav-
stop and its route numbers. elling need to be validated.
don’t get on or off via the
front door unless you need Travelling by Train
to buy a ticket from the dri-
ver. Get your ticket The dutch national railway
stamped from the machine (Nederlandse Spoorwegan)
inside or by the conductor. is reliable, clean and inex-
pensive. The ovR office
Travelling by Bus has a mass of information
for tourists, but tickets must
most city buses go from be bought and reservations
Centraal Station and use the made at the railway ticket
same stops and ticketing office
fice
ce in Centraal Station.
system as trams – you must
enter by the front door. A Travelling on Canals
bus ‘de opstapper’ leaves
every 10 minutes (mon–Sat) Canal tours using glass-
from Centraal Station along topped boats depart oppo-
prinsengracht to Waterloo- site Centraal Station along
plein and back. It runs near prins Hendrikkade, damrak
many sights, museums and and Rokin. or take a canal-
shopping areas. There is a bus: every 30 mins along
limited night bus service. three routes, with 14 stops
near major museums and
Travelling by Metro shopping areas. An All
Amsterdam Transport pass
The metro has four stations (for one, two or three days)
in the centre, all on the entitles you to a free round
eastern side: Amsterdam CS trip of the canals.
(Centraal Station),
Nieuwmarkt, Waterlooplein TRAVEL INFORMATION
and Weesperplein. It uses
the same tick- Nederlandse Spoorwegen:
eting system Centraal Station www.ns.nl
Tel: 0900 9296
as trams and
GVB (Tourist Board):
runs for a half
Stationsplein 14
hour longer www.gvb.nl Tel: 0900 9292
on weekdays. OVR (for transport info):
Metro station Take care on Tel: 0900 9292
sign night trains.
76 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N

Survival Guide
After a recent clean-up, Amsterdam is now one of
the safest cities in Europe, although it does have a
reputation for crime (mostly drugs-related). But it’s
a good idea to take out travel insurance. The city
has eficient emergency services and helplines.
charge a small commission.
Or use an official bureau
de change, such as a GWK
(grenswisselkantoren) rather
than an independent, for a
fair exchange rate.
Automatic Cash Dispensers
There are lots of cash
GWK exchange counter at dispensers, which function
Schiphol Airport in several languages.
Travellers’ Cheques
MONEY These are the safest way to
carry your money and are
Currency useful for hotel bills; a
The currency in the restaurant is not obliged to
Netherlands is the euro (€). give you change if the
Euro bank-notes have cheque is larger than your
seven denominations from bill, however. Most Dutch
€5 to €500, and eight coin banks exchange them for
denominations ranging cash, and you can use them
from €11 cent to €2. in many retail outlets.
Banks
Banks are open from 9 or COMMUNICATIONS
10am to 4 or 5pm Mon–Fri;
some stay open till 7pm on
Thursdays – koopavond, or
shopping night.
Credit Cards
Most credit cards are widely
accepted and can be used
to obtain money via bank
automatic cash dispensers. Dutch TPG postbox
They accept Access, Visa,
American Express, Diner’s Post Offices
Club, Mastercard and Displaying a TPG logo and
Banknet; few banks give open 9am–5pm,
–5pm,
5pm, Mon–Fri,
–Fri,
Fri,
cash against credit cards. they provide stamps,
Some restaurants require a telegrams, poste restante,
minimum purchase if you telephones, fax and telex,
want to use a credit card. as well as exchange currency
Changing Money or travellers’ cheques. Some
You can change currency in offer photocopying. Buy
banks, American Express stamps also from tobac-
offices and Postbanks; all conists and souvenir shops.
S U R V I VA L G U I D E 77

use overige bestemmingen


slots in red post boxes to
send mail abroad or outside
the city.
Telephones
most public telephones Ambulance
(green with a KpN Telecom
logo) require a phonecard hospital outpatient clinics
(from post ofices, super- (open 24 hours). of the
markets, newsagents and central hospitals, only the
stations) or use a credit onze Lieve vrouwe
card. The international code Gasthuis has an accident
for Amsterdam is 020 and and emergency department
00 31 for The Netherlands. at: 1e oosterparkstraat 279
Internet Cafés Tel: 599 9111.
pick up and send emails, or Pharmacies
just surf, at EasyEverything For non-prescription drugs
(the Reguliersbreestraat or toiletries, go to a chemist
branch has 250 terminals). (drogist) who can advise on
minor problems. To have a
HEALTH AND SAFETY prescription made up, go to
a pharmacy (apotheek),
Police open 8.30am to 5.30pm,
They have a reputation for mon–Fri. Notices will say
being helpful and friendly. which pharmacies are open
Hoofdbureau van politie outside normal hours.
headquarters is in Elands- Mosquitoes
gracht, with main stations Attracted by the canals,
in prinsengracht, Beurs- mosquitoes can be a real
straat and Lijnbaansgracht. irritant. Large pharmacies or
Health and Insurance supermarkets sell repellants.
Eu visitors receive medical
and dental treatment in The
Netherlands at a reduced
charge, but you must have a
European Health Insurance
Card. you’ll have to pay for
any treatment and reclaim
later. It may also be wise to
take out private insurance
to cover repatriation in an
emergency. Non-Eu visitors A selection of anti-mosquito
must have medical cover. preparations
Hospitals, Doctors, Dentists
your hotel, local pharmacy EMERGENCY NUMBERS
or tourist ofice have details Ambulance, Fire and Police:
of doctors or dentists who Tel: 112 (24 hrs a day)
speak English. So does the Police:
Central medical Service Tel: 0900 8844 (central no.)
(Centrale Doktersdienst), SOS Crisis Helpline:
tel: 020 592 3434. minor Tel: 675 7575 (24 hrs a day)
accidents are treated in
78 INDE X

Index Keukenhof 64 Engelse Kerk 19


Linnaeushof 64 Entrepotdok 7, 51
Aertsen, pieter 43 Lisse 64
Agnietenkapel 10 Noordwijk aan zee festivals 32, 50, 63,
Albert Cuypmarkt 37, 65 67, 69, 71, 73
40 Sassenheim 64 Filmmuseum 47
Allard pierson vogelenzang 64 Frank, Anne 6, 26
museum 19 Frankendael 56
American Hotel 32 Claes Claeszhofje 27
Amibarium 50, 51 Concertgebouw 46 Gemeentearchief
Amstelkerk 39 Coster diamonds 45 Amsterdam 56, 57
Amstelpark 58 Court of Appeal 33 Geologisch museum
Amstelsluizen 53 50
The Amsterdam 49 de Burcht (vak Golden Bend 6, 34
Amsterdam RAI 57 bondsmuseum) 50
Amsterdam School de dageraad Haarlem 62–63
32, 40, 50, 57, 58 Housing 57 Amsterdamse poort
Amsterdams de Gooyer windmill 63
Historisch museum 52 de Hallen
19 de melkweg 32 (vleeshal and
Amsterdamse Bos 59 de Star hofje 28 veryweyhal) 62
Anne Frankhuis 6, 26 de Stijl movement 6 Frans Hals museum
Aquarium 50, 51 delft 61, 70–71 62
Artis 50 Binnenwaterslot 71 Grote Kerk 62
Koninklijk Grote markt 62
The Baptism of Christ Nederlands Haarlem Station 63
21 Legermuseum 70 St Elizabeth’s
bars and cafés museum Lambert Gasthuis
Café Americain 32 van meerten 71 Historisch
Café Schiller 38 Nieuwe Kerk 61, museum
Café vertigo 47 70 Kennemerland 63
in Central Canal oude Kerk 70 Stadhuis 62
Ring 4, 35 Stedelijk museum Teylers museum 63
de Kroon 38 Het prinsenhof Hague, The see den
in delft 71 70 Haag
in den Haag 69 volkenkundig Hague School 44
in Eastern Canal museum Hash marijuana
Ring 41 Nusantara 71 Hemp museum 10
in Haarlem 63 den Haag 68–69 Heineken Experience
in Leiden 67 Galerij prins 40
Leidseplein 4 Willem v 69 Herengracht 6, 7
in museum quarter Grote Kerk 68 hofjes (almshouses)
47 Haags Historisch 25, 27, 28
in Nieuwe zijde 23 museum 69 Holland Experience 14
in oude zijde 15 mauritshuis 69 Hollandsche manege
in plantage 53 museum Bredius 46
Rembrandtplein 38 69 Hollandsche
in utrecht 73 parliament Schouwburg 50
in Western Canal buildings 68 Hortus Botanicus
Ring 29 Ridderzaal 69 Amsterdam 50
Bartolotti House 26 Rijksmuseu Huis met de
Begijnhof 19 Gevangenpoort Hoofden 27
Bijbels museum 34 68
Blauwbrug 38 diamonds 14, 45, 50 joods Historisch
Bloembollenstreek 64 dutch Academy 11 museum 14
Bloemenmarkt 41 dutch Colonial The jordaan 26
Bloemgracht 27 Institute 56
Bosmuseum 59 dutch East India Kalverstraat 17
Brouwersgracht 28 Company 11 Kattenkabinet (cat
bulbields 64–65 museum) 34
de Cruquius Egelantiersgracht 27 Keizergracht 6
museum 64 Electrische Koninklijk paleis 5,
Katwijk 64 museumtramlijn 59 18
INDE X 79

Koninklijk Theater olympic quarter 58 Noodermarkt 28


Carré 53 oostindisch Huis 11 in oude zijde 15
oude Kerk 7, 12–13 in Western Canal
Leiden 66–67 ouderkerk aan de Ring 29
de Burcht 67 Amstel 55, 58 Singelgracht 32
Hortus Sint Nicolaaskerk 22
Botanicus der paintings 21, 44 Six Collection 39
Rijksuniversiteit paleis van justitie 33 Stadsschouwburg 32
Leiden 66 pianola en piano Stedelijk museum 6,
museum Boerhaave museum 28 43, 45
66 pintohuis 14
oude Rijn 66 planetarium 50, 51 Theatermuseum 26
pieterskerk 67 portugees Torensluis 22
Rijksmuseum van Israëlitische Trippenhuis 11
oudheden 67 Synagoge 14 Tropenmuseum 56
Rijksmuseum voor prinsengracht 7, 25 tulips 64, 65
volkenkunde 67 prints & drawings 44 Tuschinski Theater
Stedelijk molen 40
museum de valk Red Light district 10
67 Reguliersgracht 7 university museum
Stedelijk museum Rembrandt 11, 15, 10
de Lakenhal 66 26, 44, 66 university of
Leidsegracht 31, 33 Rembrandtplein 38 Amsterdam 11
Leidseplein 4, 32 restaurants utrecht 72–73
Looier Kunst en in Central Canal Centraal museum
Antiekcentrum 34 Ring 35 73
in delft 71 domtoren/
madame Tussauds in den Haag 69 domkerk 73
Scenerama 18 in Eastern Canal museum
magere Brug 5, 39 Ring 41 Catharijneconvent
magna plaza 5, 22 in Haarlem 63 73
markets 9, 28, 37, 40, in Leiden 67 National museum
41, 63, 67, 69, 71, in museum quarter van Speelklok tot
73 47 pierement 72
Mercury 44 in Nieuwe zijde 23 Nederlands Spoor-
metz & Co 7, 33 in oude zijde 15 wegmuseum 73
montelbaanstoren 15 in plantage 53 pieterskerk 73
muiderpoort 52 in utrecht 73
munttoren 40 in Western Canal vakbondsmuseum 50
museum Amstelkring Ring 29 van Gogh museum
6, 20–21 Rieker windmill 58 6, 45
museum Het Rijksmuseum 4, 6, 44 van Logteren,
Rembrandthuis 11 Royal Barge 52 Ignatius 56
museum ’t Kromhout Royal picture Gallery vermeer, jan 44, 70
52 69 verzetsmuseum 53
museum van Loon 40 Royal Tropical vondelkerk 47
museum Willet Institute 56 vondelpark 46
Holthuysen 38
Schiphol Airport 59 Waag 5, 10
National monument sculptures 18, 38, 43, Waterlooplein 9, 14
18 44 Westerkerk 7, 26
Nederlands Film shopping Western Islands 29
museum 47 in Central Canal White House 26
Nederlands Ring 35 William of orange,
Scheepvaart- in delft 71 prince 70
museum 49, 52 in Eastern Canal windmills 52, 58
Nemo Science Center Ring 41
Amsterdam 56 Kalverstraat 17 zandhoek
Nes 19 markets 9, 28, 37, (Realeneiland) 29
Nieuwe Kerk 5, 7, 18 40, 41, 63, 67, 69, zon’s hofje 28
Nieuwmarkt 5, 10 71, 73 zoölogisch museum
Noorderkerk 7, 28 in Nieuwe zijde 17, 50
Noordermarkt 28 23 zuiderkerk 7, 11
80 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Acknowledgments
dorling Kindersley would like The publishers are grateful to
to thank the following people the following individuals, com-
whose help and assistance panies and picture libraries for
contributed to the preparation permission to reproduce their
of this book. photographs:

Design and Editorial GvB AmSTERdAm: 75tl.


Publisher douglas Amrine
Publishing Manager vivien Antwi HoLLANd INFoRmATIoN SToRE:
Managing Art Editor Kate poole Kers/Burggraaf 64; 65 tr;
Cartography Casper morris photo Art 65cl.
Design maite Lantaron
Production Controller Shane KoNINKLIjKE TpG poST Bv:NpK
Higgins Industrial design 76br.
Picture Research Ellen Root
DTP jason Little vzA AmSTERdAm: Ron Sitek 77tr.
Jacket Design Tessa Bindloss
jACKET
Picture Credits dK ImAGES spine
Every effort has been made to ImAGESTATE/Top/maurice
trace the copyright holders, and Rougemont front
we apologize in advance for any
omissions. We would be pleased All other images © doRLING
to insert appropriate acknowl- KINdERSLEy
edgments in any subsequent For further information see
edition of this publication. www.dKimages.com.

t = top; tl = top left; tc = top


centre; tr = top right; cla =
Price Codes are for a three-
centre left above; ca = centre
course meal per person
above; cra = centre right above;
including taxes, extra charges
cl = centre left; c = centre;
and half a bottle of house
cr = centre right; clb = centre left
wine
below; cb = centre below;
crb = centre right below; Cheap under €20
bl = bottom left; b = bottom; Moderate €20–€45
bc = bottom centre; br = bottom Expensive €45 or more
right.

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PHRA SE BOOK

Phrase Book
In Emergency
Help! Help! Help
Stop! Stop! Stop
Call a doctor Haal een dokter Haal uhn dok-tur
Call an ambulance Bel een Bell uhn ahm-bew-
ambulance luhns-uh
Call the police Roep de politie Roop duh poe-leet-
see
Call the ire brigade Roep de Roop duh brahnt-
brandweer vheer
Where is the Waar is de vhaar iss duh
nearest telephone? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn-
telefoon? duh tay-luh-foan
Where is the Waar is het vhaar iss het
nearest hospital? dichtstbijzijnde dikhst-baiy-zaiyn-
ziekenhuis? duh zee-kuh-houws

Communication Essentials
yes/No Ja/Nee yaa/Nay
please Alstublieft Ahls-tew-bleeft
Excuse me Pardon pahr-don
Thank you Dank u dahnk-ew
Hello Hallo Hallo
Goodbye Dag dahgh
morning Morgen Mor-ghuh
afternoon Middag Mid-dahgh
evening Avond Ah-vohnd
What? Wat? vhat
When? Wanneer? vhan-eer
Why? Waarom? vhaar-om
Where? Waar? vhaar

Useful Phrases
How do you do? Hoe maakt u het? Hoo maakt ew het
very well, thank you Heel goed, dank u Hayl ghoot, dahnk ew
That’s ine Prima Pree-mah
do you speak Spreekt u engels? Spraykt ew eng-uhls
English?
I don’t understand Ik snap het niet Ik snahp het neet
Could you speak Kunt u langzamer Kuhnt ew lahng-
slowly? praten? zahmer praa-tuh

Useful Words
big groot ghroaht
small klein klaiyn
hot warm vharm
cold koud khowt
good goed ghoot
bad slecht slekht
open open open
closed gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh
left links links
right rechts rekhts
straight on rechtdoor rehkht dohr
near dichtbij dikht baiy
far ver weg vehr vhekh
up omhoog om-hoakh
down naar beneden naar buh-nay-duh
early vroeg vroohkh
PHRA SE BOOK

late laat laat


entrance ingang in-ghahng
exit uitgang ouht-ghang

Shopping
How much does Hoeveel kost dit? Hoo-vayl kost dit
this cost?
I would like Ik wil graag Ik vhil ghraakh
do you take credit Neemt u credit Naymt ew credit
cards? cards aan? cards aan
do you take Neemt u Naymt ew raiys-
traveller’s cheques? reischeques aan? sheks aan
What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
open/close? open? opuh/dikht
What time do you Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaat ew
open? open? opuh

Sightseeing
bus station busstation buhs-stah-shown
church kerk kehrk
closed on public op feestdagen op fayst-daa-ghuh
holidays gesloten ghuh-slow-tuh
museum museum mew-zay-uhm
railway station station stah-shown
tourist information VVV fay fay fay

Eating Out
Have you got a Is er een tafel Iss ehr uhn tah-fuhl
table? vrij? vraiy
The bill, please Mag ik afrekenen mukh ik ahf-ray-
kuh-nuh
I am a vegetarian Ik ben vegetariër Ik ben fay-ghuh-
taahr-ee-er
menu de kaart duh kaahrt
wine list de wijnkaart duh vhaiyn-kaart
waiter/waitress ober/serveertster oh-ber/sehr-veer-ster
cover charge het couvert het koo-vehr
glass het glas het ghlahss
bottle de fles duh less
knife het mes het mess
fork de vork duh fork
spoon de lepel duh lay-pul
breakfast het ontbijt het ont-baiyt
lunch de lunch duh lernsh
dinner het diner het dee-nay
main course het hoofdgerecht het hoaft-ghuh-rekht
starter, irst course het voorgerecht het vohr-ghuh-rekht
dessert het nagerecht het naa-ghuh-rekht
rare rare ‘rare’
medium medium ‘medium’
well done doorbakken dohr-bah-kuh

Days
monday maandag maan-dahgh
Tuesday dinsdag dins-dahgh
Wednesday woensdag vhoons-dahgh
Thursday donderdag donder-dahgh
Friday vrijdag vraiy-dahgh
Saturday zaterdag zaater-dahgh
Sunday zondag zon-dahgh
eyewitness travel

amsterdam
pock et m a p & gu i de
e v e ry t h i n g yo u n e e d f or
a perfect day out
IJ D

T
P LE I N

SS

OU D E
JK

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80-page guide to
amsterdam’s major sights
·
detailed pull-out map
·
where to eat, drink
and shop in each area
·
perfect companion to
the eyewitness travel guide
Printed in China

£3.99