Batalabackpackenglish Aiid2160863

Material
Fabric:
½ Y ard exterior cotton (the forest green).
1 Yard lining cotton (all of the interior).
25 x 25” Exterior faux leather (the purple soft sides), suede or other stable but draping fabric.
1 Fat Quarter (18” x 22”) cotton piping fabric (the purple piping) or 2 yards store bought piping.
1 Fat Quarter (18” x 22”) cotton decorative fabric (the tiger fabric).

Interfacing:
15 x 24” Heavy weight, stable fusible interfacing such as Fast 2 Fuse Heavy or Pellon Peltex.
½ Yard of light weight fusible interfacing such as Vilene G700 woven fusible or P ellon SF101 ShapeFlex.
½ Yard medium weight fusible interfacing with loft for straps, such as Pellon Fusible Thermolam.

Notions:
(1) 2 ” Dring (if your quilt store doesn’t carry them, buy from a hardware store or dive shop).
(2) 1” Rectangular rings.
(2) 1” Rectangle sliders for adjusting strap length.
1 Y ard of drawstring for closing your bag.
2 Yards of drawstring for piping (if you’re making your own).
(2) 7” Zippers for pockets, one matching lining and one matching exterior.
(20) E yelets in a suitable size for your drawstring. The bag in the pattern uses ⅜” size.
(1) Double plastic cord lock for drawstring.
(2) P lastic cord ends if you wish.
Fabric glue (like Gutermann Textile Glue HT2).
Wonder Clips or similar.
Rotary cutter, cutting mat & ruler.
Before You Start

First I’d like to take this opportunity to t hank you for purchasing my pattern!
I hope you’ll find it easy to follow and fun to make. If you have any questions, find anything is unclear, or want to carry this
pattern in your shop, please don’t hesitate to drop me an email: m aria@pinkponydesign.com .

Please r ead through the instructions and mark your pieces with painters tape before you start, it will make everything easier.
This pattern is for personal use, you may not copy the pattern and redistribute. You are welcome to sell items made from my
patterns. I only ask that you include a note about the item being a ‘Pink Pony Design’ on the tag (if selling in person) or a link
to my page (if selling online). I hope you’ll have fun and please share your work on social media using the hashtags
#batalabackpack and #pinkponydesign, so that I and others may enjoy them!

Thank you!
Maria Pink Pony Design
www.PinkPonyDesign.com
Instagram: @
pink_pony_design
www.facebook.com/pinkponydesigns
Cutting Instructions
Please start by cutting the following pieces from your fabrics and interfacings. The numbers in brackets are the number of
such pieces to cut. Continue to S
tep 1 and then follow the instructions there to finish cutting and interfacing your pieces,
including the templates. Wait until you get to that piece in the Instructions before fusing any interfacing to the fabric b
ecause
some pieces will be cut down further before interfacing .
Exterior Fabric: Piping Fabric: Interfacing Heavy:
A: (1) 9 x 25” Main Panel. (* Step 1) If you’re using premade piping, skip this and (1) 8 x 24” Main Panel A .
B: (1) 7 x 10” Zipper Pocket Exterior. use lining fabric for the K pocket piece. (1) Templates X & Y.
C: (2) 4 x 42” Straps. I: ( 2) 1½ x 26” Bias Cut for Piping (Step 13)
D: (1) 4 x 16” Strap Attachment. Main Panel. Interfacing Medium:
J: (1) 1½ x 22” Bias Cut for Piping (Step 13) (2) 1 x 42” Straps C .
Y: (1) Template Y Dring Holder. Flap. (1) 1 x 16” Strap Attachment D .
K: (1) 5 x 5½” Phone Pocket.
Lining Fabric: Interfacing Light:
E: ( 1) 9 x 25” Main Panel Lining. Exterior Faux Leather Fabric: (1) 9 x 25” Main Panel E .
F: ( 1) 7 x 10” Zipper Pocket Lining. L: (2) Half Circles as described in Step 4. (2) 7 x 10” Zipper pockets B & F.
G: (1) 5 x 5½” Phone Pocket. (1) 5 x 5 ½” Phone Pocket G .
H: ( 2) Half Circles as described in Step 4. Decor Fabric:
X: (1) Template X Flap.
X: (1) Template X Flap Lining. Y: (1) Template Y Dring Holder.
1
Instructions
Seam allowance is ½” unless otherwise noted. Please read through the pattern before you start.

1. Preparations & Cutting
Take your Main Panel heavy interfacing A piece and mark
the centre, which is 12” from the edge. Measure 1” from
either side of the centre, make two new marks on both
sides. Measure 1” in from each of the short sides, make
new marks. From the side marks to the marks 1” from the
centre cut along the blue lines in the photo. Repeat on the
other side.
Fuse this to the center of A
Main Panel and cut down the A

panel to the same shape, b ut leaving ½” seam allowance all
around .

* If you have directional fabric, cut (2) 13 x 9” rectangles, join
together at the bottom of your directional fabrics to get (1) 25 x 9”
A panel with two “right” sides up and then continue with this step.
2. Fuse the interfacing to E
and by placing A
on top, cut it
down to the shame shape as A now has.

Fuse interfacing to your B , F and G
pieces.
3. Print your templates and make sure your printer is set to
print at 100% and not to scale . Test by measuring the 1”
square. Take your template pieces X & Y
, and cut them out
like in the photo, preserving the frame of the template. Use
the hollow part of your template to see exactly how your
pieces will look once cut from your decorative fabric. This is
a great tool if you wish to fussy cut y
our pieces .

Trace exterior edge and cut out 1 X and 1 Y template .
Then cut (1) X flap from lining fabric and (1) Y D
ring Holder
template from your exterior fabric.

Use the interior of the X and Y templates to trace one of
each onto your heavy interfacing.

Fuse your heavy interfacing centered on your exterior fabric
X and Y pieces.
4. Fold your 25 x 25” L
piece in half. Along the long, n
on
folded side draw a straight line that’s 25” (if your piece isn’t
exact that measurement already). Mark the 12 ½” halfway
point of your line. Take your taped together template H & L
and with the thinnest point of the template at the 12 ½”
mark start marking your half circle. Draw along the rounded
side of the template, move it sideways while still keeping
the point of your cake piece shaped template at the 12 ½”
point until you have your half circle drawn.

Then just use one of these half circles to trace around to cut
out 2 more half circles, your H pieces from your lining
fabric.
2
5. Place all (4) of your half circles (H
& L
) flat on your mat,
line up the straight edge with your A piece, matching the
centres as shown in photo.

Cut away the excess outside the A piece (crossed out in
photo) resulting in the shape in the little corner photo.
6. Exterior Zipper Pocket
Place your B p iece with the wrong side up, draw a
rectangle that is 5” long and ⅜” high, centered with it’s top
long side 1” down from the 7” top side. Draw a line in the
center of your rectangle, ⅜” from the ends, split it in two
and draw a line out to the corner resulting in the triangle
shape in the photo.

Place your B piece right sides together with the A piece.
Place it 1½” down from the 7” side, pin or clip in place. Sew
around your rectangle with a short stitch, 2.0.
7. W
ith small sharp scissors or seam ripper, cut through all
your layers along your center line, right into your corners
(but n
ot through your stitches) following your triangles.

Push your B piece through the opening just made so it ends
up with the right side out on the wrong side of A
piece.

8. The seam allowance is very thick, you can try pressing it
in place, however, it might not be possible to get a nice
result this way (make sure you d on’t fuse your B piece to
your A piece if your heavy interfacing is a two sided
fusible ).
Gluing it down can be the best way to get a professional
looking result. Place a t hin line of glue just by the seam on
one side like in the photo.
9. Wiggle your seam in place between your fingers, looking
at it from the right side of your A
piece, then place clips
over the seam while it dries as you really want this to be
precise. Repeat S tep 89 for the other 3 sides.
3
10. Flip your A piece over so the wrong side is up. Place a
thin line of glue around the opening. Place your 7” zipper
right side down on the glue, taking care to center it in the
opening and making sure your zipper pull is visible on the
front side.
11. Turn your A
piece over so it is right side up. Make any
final changes to your zipper alignment before the glue dries.
Then sew ⅛” from the edge (with a longer stitch, 3.54.) all
around your rectangle to secure your zipper.
12. Turn it back over so the wrong side is up and fold up
the bottom half of your B piece right sides together on top
of the zipper. Clip in place and sew closed with ¼” seam
allowance around all 3 open edges, taking care to not sew
the pocket to the exterior A piece and backstitching
carefully ⅛” from the fold. C ut open along the bottom fold
so we can turn our back through the pocket later.

This can be a little tricky due to that fact that we glued down the
seam allowances, however, bend your A piece out of the way and
slow and steady wins the race.
13. Exterior Magnetic Snaps
Take your A piece, 3 ⅝” from the short end without zipper,
mark a spot centered on the piece (plus sign in top photo).
Remove the washer from the female of your magnetic snap.
Center the round hole on your mark. Mark lines for the
prongs and remove washer. Make slits with your seam
ripper for the prongs and make them smaller rather than
larger as your fabric will stretch. Insert your female
magnetic snap from the right side, place the washer on the
prongs on the back and bend the prongs outwards from the
washer for the flattest look (bottom photo).

On your X flap lining piece, mark a spot on the right side 1
⅞” from the bottom, centered. On the wrong side of this
spot, take a 1 x 1 ½” scrap of heavy interfacing and fuse on
to strengthen. Repeat the steps above with the male part of
your lock.
14. E xterior Piping
If you’re using premade piping, skip to S tep 17 .
Cut your strips on the bias. Join your strips so you have the
enough for your I and J pieces by placing them right sides
together, matching the ends like in the photo and sew them
together from corner to corner. Cut along the red line to
removed excess leaving a ¼” seam allowance, press open.
This diagonal joining will give us a pretty and strong seam.
4
15. Take your strips and enclose the piping cord, holding it
in place with clips or pins.
16. Sew a seam with your zipper foot (or piping foot if you
have), close to the piping cord.
17. E xterior Attach Piping
Attach the J piping piece around the interfaced X piece like
in the photo, clip in place and then sew down so your piping
is just on top of your interfacing and your stitches go in the
seam allowance. Clip little “V” shapes around the rounded
edges.

Attach the I piping pieces along the long sides of your A
piece, take care to fold your pocket out of the way when
sewing them down.

Add any other decoration you want on your A piece now,
such as a label or tag.
18. Exterior Sides
Take the (2) exterior half circle L
pieces, place one right
sides together with your A piece. Line up the long sides and
clip together. With your zipper foot, sew together with a
short stitch as close as you possibly can to the piping.
Again, take care to not catch your pocket in the seam.

Repeat with your other L piece on the other side.
19. Flap
Place the two X flap pieces right sides together and clip in
place. With your zipper foot, sew together with a short stitch
along the side and the rounded edge, as close as you
possibly can to the piping. L eaving the straight short side
open .

Clip little “V” shapes around the rounded edges and turn
through the opening. Press it nice and flat, topstitch a scant
¼” from the edge all around the sewn edges if you’d like, I
didn’t for this bag
20. Dring Holder
Clip your two Y p ieces right sides together. Sew along the
interfacing with a short stitch, leave the long straight bottom
side open for turning.

Cut down the seam allowances to reduce bulk (except for
along the opening), cut off the corners and clip little “V”s in
the bends. Turn through the opening and press, topstitch a
scant ¼” from the edge all around the sewn edges if you’d
like, I didn’t for this bag.
5
21. F
old the short side of the Dring holder over the straight
bar of the Dring. Fold over 1 ½”, dab a little glue to hold the
fold in place while you sew it down with a rectangle
strengthened by a cross in the middle, like in the photo.
22. S
traps
Fold and press your C
and D pieces wrong sides together
lengthwise so you get a crease along the center. Unfold and
place your batting strips right next to this fold and iron in
place.

Take the raw edges and fold them in towards the original
center crease, press.
23. F
old in half again encasing the raw edges completely.
Hold in place with clips while you sew it closed with a long
stitch, ⅛” from the edge, making sure to carefully line up the
edges of your folds.

Sew a matching seam on the other side of your straps.

Repeat on all strap pieces.
24. Split your D
piece in half so you have (2) 8” long pieces.
Take a rectangle ring and thread on one piece, place your
ends right side together like in the photo and sew together
with ¼” seam allowance.
25. Open up the seam allowance, dab a little glue on them
and hold in place with clover clips like in the photo while it
dries, creating a fold on top of the seam allowance.

While the glue dries, sew a little rectangle next to your ring
to hold it in place opposite the seam allowance fold.

Repeat S teps 2425 for your other D piece.
6
26. P lace the bottom end (the one without ring) of your D
pieces 1” from the edge of your main panel A , and 12 ½”
from the short edge with the zipper.

Dab a little glue in the bottom 1” of the D
piece and let it dry
to hold it in place while you sew it down like in the photo,
repeat on other D piece on the other side.
27. Place your Dring Holder and your straps right sides
down, thread them through the Dring, place a dab of glue
on the end of the right side of your strap, fold in ½” so you
encase the raw end and hold in place with clips while it
dries. Repeat on other strap.

Make sure that the right side of your straps are on the same
side as the right side of your Dring holder as otherwise
you’ll see the folds on your straps and we don’t want that.
28. Turn your Dring and straps over so they are right side
up. Since the seams securing our straps will be in focus on
our bag it’s important we get them totally even, so using a
disappearing pen, mark two lines ⅜” apart on top of your
folds, the same distance from your fold.

Sew a rectangle over the lines using your zipper foot (to
avoid issues while sewing close to the big Dring)
29. Finishing the Exterior
Place your Dring holder r ight side up, centered on your A
piece on the side with the zipper. Sew a seam ¼” from the
edge to secure it.
30. Place the flap on top of your Dring holder, r ight side
down . It will extend slightly over the piped edges of your A
piece.

Again, sew a seam ¼” from the edge to secure it.

31. Lining
With the E and F
piece, repeat S
teps 612, s kip S
teps 89
as this time the seam allowance is thin and can be pressed
down easily. Leave the bottom closed on this pocket as we
already have an opening for turning.
7
32. Take your G and K pieces and place them right sides
together. Starting 1½” from the edge of a long side, sew all
the way to the end using a ¼” seam allowance. Fold it down
at the seam as in the photo and sew over your first seam
allowance down the short side.
33. Fold again and sew down your seam allowance,
continue all the way around, but leave an opening to turn.
We do the folds to get sharp and precise corners for our
pockets. Turn right side out.

If your interfacing is very stiff however, you might want to trim the
corner off before turning as shown in the corner photo. But try
without cutting first as it will give the nicest result, fiddle a little to
get your seam allowances to lay nicely.
34. Topstitch ⅛” from the edge along the long side with the
opening to close it. Then place your pocket with the top
edge 3“ from the short edge of lining piece E on the
opposite side of the zip pocket. Decide if you want the
contrasting fabric facing up or not. Sew down your pocket, I
chose to sew mine down with double seams for decoration,
just make sure you leave the top open.

Add your two H half circles to the sides to complete your
lining as described in S tep 18 .
35. Joining Exterior and Lining
Open the zip in your zippered exterior pocket so we can
turn our backpack through this later.

Take your lining and your exterior, place them right sides
together and clip together. Make sure you get your straps
out of the way. Sew closed. Clip little “V” shapes in the
rounded parts of the seam allowance.

Turn right side out. Sew closed the turning hole in your
zipper pocket.
36. Finger press and wiggle the seam in place and hold in
place with a clip.

Topstitch all around ~¼” from the edge with a walking foot.

Start with the half circles and end with the straight sections
as you might need to adjust your tension for the bulkier
sections.
37. Attach the straps
Lay out your straps so they are untwisted. Thread on your
rectangle slider like in the photo on the bottom strap.
8
38. Thread the strap end through your slider, through the
rectangle ring, then back through your slider as shown in
the photo.
39. T hread through the slider again through the bottom half
and then fold in the top ¼”, dab a little glue on the top side
on the fold and fold it again ½” in so you secure the end of
your strap around the middle of the slider. Clip in place and
let it dry.

Wiggle out and sew in place with a rectangle on top of the
fold. Repeat S tep 3739 on the other strap.
40. Adding the eyelets
Using a ruler, start by placing your very first mark for
eyelets 2 ¼” from the seam that joins your side with the
main panel, ½” in from the rounded edge.

Make these marks in all 4 joints for the sides.
41. Place the following marks in between your 2 ¼” marks
4” apart. You will have 8 eyelets in total for each half circle
side.
42. Place your eyelets on your marks and check that they
look evenly distributed. Depending on how even your half
circles turned out, these measurements might not be 100%
perfect for you, if so, adjust accordingly (however, leave the
2 ¼” from the edge ones in place, only adjust the other 6
eyelets). Just make sure your eyelets are evenly spaced on
both sides so the bag closes evenly.
Make new marks if needed and hammer in the eyelets
according to the instructions on the package.
43. The eyelets on the main panel are placed 1 ⅛” from the
edge of the side seam and ¾” from the top edge. Place one
eyelet in each of the four corners.

Insert your eyelets centered on the marks according to the
instructions on the package.

Thread your drawstring through the eyelets, add your
double plastic cord lock and cord ends and you’re done!
All done and well done!
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