Mcalls Instr

M6901
>> MISSES’/
W O M E N ’ S PA N T S
02
FABRIC &
SIZE CHART
04
CUTTING
LAYOUTS
06
PATTERN
MARKINGS
07
GLOSSARY
08
SEWING
INSTRUCTIONS
SKIL L L EVE L : E A SY
M6901 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS
M6901CC
Find the Perfect Fit!
THINGS YOU NEED:
>> One 9” Zipper and One Hook & Eye Closure.
Optional: One 9” Invisible Zipper.
SUGGESTED FABRICS:
>> Gabardine, Wool Blends, Cotton Blends, Corduroy.
MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 2

M6901 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS
SIZE CHARTS
YARDAGE CHARTS
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
PANTS
45"*** 23/8 23/8 23/8 21/2 21/2 21/2 21/2 25/8 23/4 yds.
60"*** 15/8 15/8 13/4 17/8 21/8 21/8 21/8 23/8 21/2 yds.
FUSIBLE INTERFACING
18", 20" 1 1 11/8 11/8 11/4 11/4 13/8 13/8 11/2 yds.
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
MEASUREMENT AT HIPLINE
PANTS 37 38 391/2 411/2 431/2 46 48 50 52 in.
WIDTH, EACH LEG
PANTS 131/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 in.
SIDE LENGTH FROM WAIST
PANTS 40 40 40 40 40 41 41 41 41 in.
BODY MEASUREMENTS
MISSES’ WOMENS’
SIZES 8 10 12 14 16 18W 20W 22W 24W
BUST 311/2 321/2 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 in.
WAIST 24 25 261/2 28 30 33 35 37 39 in.
HIP 331/2 341/2 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 in.
BACK WAIST LENGTH 153/4 16 161/4 161/2 163/4 171/8 171/4 173/8 171/2 in.

M 6 9 0 1 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S
Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step!
PIECES (5)
PANTS 5 PATTERN PIECES
1 FRONT 5 PIEZAS DE PATRON
2 POCKET
3 SIDE FRONT
1 2
4 BACK 4
5
5 WAISTBAND
CUTTING AND MARKING

>> SHRINK FABRIC if not labeled pre-shrunk. Press.
>> CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width.
>> Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface
shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used.
>> For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD), fold fabric with right sides together.
>> *DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD), for fabrics with nap, fold fabric A B
crosswise, right sides together. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of
fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place
over lower layer, right sides together (B).
>> For SINGLE THICKNESS, place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics,
place pile side down.)
>> Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Pin.
(Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.)
>> Cut accurately, cutting notches outward.
>> Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and
Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be
thread traced.
NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided.
>> Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type.
>> Fold fabric with right sides together, matching SELVAGES.
>> Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears.
M 6 9 0 1 > > C U T T I N G L AYO U T S
PANTS
USE PIECES: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
45” (115 CM) 60” (150 CM)
WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP
ALL SIZES SIZES 16-18W-20W-22W-24W
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
3
4
4
5 SELVAGE
1
3 2
2
2 3 5
SELVAGE
FOLD
1 4
60" */**
6901 PANTS
FOLD SELVAGE Size 24W
Plot 1015
60” (150 CM)

45" */**
6901 PANTSWITHOR WITHOUT NAP
Size 24W
Plot 1001
SIZES
8-10-12-14
SELVAGES
3
1
2
5 FOLD
60" */**
6901 PANTS
Size 14
Plot 1021
MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 5

M 6 9 0 1 > > PAT T E R N M A R K I N G S
GRAIN LINES
to place on
SYMBOLS
straight grain of
for matching
fabric parallel to
seams and
selvage or fold
construction
details
FOLD LINE
to place on
fold of fabric
LENGTHEN &
SHORTEN LINES
two parallel lines
where you make the
pattern piece longer
or shorter NOTCHES
single or double
triangular
markings used
for matching
pieces together
TO SHORTEN
to crease along
adjustment line; make
a fold half the amound
needed; tape in place
SEAM
ALLOWANCE
the measurement
used to turn up
your hem
TO LENGTHEN
to slash between
adjustment lines;
spread amount as
needed, keeping MEASUREMENTS
edges parallel; indicates Bustline,
tape over paper Waistline, Hip or Biceps;
refers to circumference of
finishined garment

M6901 >> GLOSSARY
The following terms appear in BOLD TYPE throughout your sewing instructions!
>> EASESTITCH >> SLIPSTITCH

Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a
Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. thread of underneath fabric.
NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long

machine stitches 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance. >> TOPSTITCH
for more control. On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or
previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or
stitch where indicated in instructions.
>> EDGESTITCH
Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
>> UNDERSTITCH
Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to
>> FINISH seam allowance close to seam.
Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one
of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR
(3) Turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold OR
(4) Overlock.
OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding.

M6901 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
SEAM ALLOWANCES:
>> Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise
indicated.
>> Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching
notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams.
>> Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise
stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
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LEARN TO FIT PANTS WITH OUR MOST UP-TO-DATE METHODS

We have tried many methods of fitting pants, including measuring the body and sewing a muslin or
gingham pants but nothing has worked as well as tissue-fitting. After tissue-fitting for years, we added
alteration lines to the tissue to make altering easier.
The second edition of Pants For Real People includes tissue-fitting methods shown on real people.
Technique art is also now in full color, making them easier to follow. For this pattern, we wanted to have
all sizes in one envelope so that our teachers were never out of a size! (This envelope includes Sizes 8
through 24W). This required cutting down the number of pattern pieces.
Therefore, if you are learning to fit pants, you will start out tissue-fitting by lapping and pinning the side
front to the front and fitting the front as one piece. You won’t need piece #2, the pocket facing, if you do
this.
Read through this guide and then get started tissue-fitting, then fabric-fitting. We’ve included some
great techniques for zippers and waistbands to help you make a professional pair of pants.
FIT FEATURES
Don’t waste time sewing a garment that doesn’t fit!
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FIRST, BUY THE RIGHT SIZE. Snugly measure the fullest part of your hip above the crotch,
generally 7”-9” (18cm-23cm) from your waist. (If your thighs are fuller, you can let out both the
inseams and side seams). If you are between sizes, buy the smaller size unless you have a flat
derriere; then use the next larger size so that you can remove width across the back to eliminate
bagginess. If someone is very flat, it is more efficient to use two sizes larger so that after tucking
out the back width that you don’t need, your tissue should still fit your hips.
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A clue to a flat derriere: If you trimmed the tissue to the size based on your hip measurement and the
side seam is too far forward, you are flat in the back. Make a vertical tuck in the back to bring the side
seam to the middle of your body. If needed, then add tissue to the side front and back for hip width.
Next time, trim tissue to a size or two larger. It saves time.
Tissue-Fit the Pattern
To make altering easier, we have placed alteration lines on the pattern tissue for the most common
adjustments. Tuck or cut and spread at these lines until the pattern fits you. If you are unfamiliar with
altering how-to’s, see our book Pants for Real People or bring our class to your home with our DVDs.
Instructions given are for pants with fly front and side front pockets. You have one option to eliminate
the fly and use a center back invisible zipper. You also have the option with either pant to eliminate the
side front pockets.
Happy Sewing!
Pati Palmer & Associates
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Pro Tip: Alter on a cardboard cutting

board. Place the pressed tissue on the
board, make the alteration, and pin to the
board as you go. Then tape it in place with
1/2” (1.3cm) tape.
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TISSUE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

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BUILT-IN FIT
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The pattern pieces have BUILT-IN fit help: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
•Larger “in-case” seam allowances “in-case” you need them. And, alteration tucking or spreading lines printed
on the tissue.
•1” (2.5cm) inseam
•1” (2.5cm) side seams for fuller waist, hips and thighs
•1” (2.5cm) waistline seam on front and back for

more crotch depth if needed
(2.5 cm)
LINEAS PARA ALARGAR O
ACORTAR
•In case gravity has taken hold, we’ve given you (2.5 cm)
markings for stitching your back crotch seam 3

2 1 4
lower for a low derriere. Coser Bajo
De Derriere Forra
•If genetics has given you a flat derriere, use

the tuck lines on the back to fold out extra back
width. CROTCHLINE
Línea de Entrepierna
•How is the length?. Adjust using lengthening/

shortening lines on the pants leg tissue. (2.5 cm)
LINEAS PARA ALARGAR O

ACORTAR
Espalda
Hundida/Plana
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GETTING THE TISSUE READY
Trim around the tissue OUTSIDE the black cutting line for your size. Press tissue with a dry iron set at WOOL
setting.
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Using a ruler and pen, mark the stitching lines 1” (2.5cm) from the cut line for
Mark 1” (2.5 cm)
the waist, side seams and inseams. seamline
Marcar la línea de
costura de 2.5cm.
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With tissue RIGHT SIDE UP, tape the following INSIDE the stitching
line to prevent the tissue from tearing when trying on. (When you
press tissue next time, press from the WRONG side so you won’t
melt the tape. Make this a habit!.)
Tape the entire FRONT and BACK crotch inside the stitching line.
Go under the lowest back crotch stitching line if you are over 30 as
your derriere has probably gotten lower in the back.
Use small pieces of tape around curves, lapping them. Use 1/2” (1.3cm) Scotch™ Magic™Tape (green box).
Clip the curves to the stitching line but NOT through the tape.
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Tug lightly on tissue to see if the crotch is taped securely.
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3
Simple pants are easier to fit. Eliminate the pocket and fly front. To eliminate the pocket,
lap the front and side front, matching circles, then pin them together so you will have a 1
complete front. NOTE: Use these pattern pieces, pinned together, when cutting the fabric
to make pants without pockets.
PANTS WITHOUT POCKETS

pantalón sin bolsillos
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Foldline for left side

(underlap fold line)
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Línea de doblez
To eliminate fly front: Fold fly extension under along fold line for left para el
costado izquierdo
side, (underlap foldline). (línea de doblez

de la pestaña
inferior para cerrar)
NOTE: Use these pattern pieces when cutting the fabric to make pants Center front
LA FRENTE CENTRAL
without pockets and fly front and apply a center back invisible zipper.
Instructions for invisible zipper application are included.
PANTS WITHOUT POCKETS

OR FLY FRONT
pantalón sin bolsillos o
bragueta en el frente
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MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 0

TISSUE-FIT THE PATTERN
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Match the hem edges of the front and back tissue, then line up cut edges bottom to top.
Anchor to your cardboard cutting board. Then pin the front and back tissue pieces, wrong
sides together, with pins in the seam line, pointing down, and parallel to the cut edges.
Don’t place any pins above the waist or crotch stitching line or you will get poked! Pin darts
on the outside as well.
FIT TIP: If your left side is fuller than your right, you will need to pin the pattern, right sides
together, so you can fit your left side.
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PRO TIP: The first pin at the top of the inseam goes into the tissue on the crotch SIDE
SEAM
stitching line and points down. The first pin at the top of the side seams goes in at CROTCH
Costura
del Costado
SEAM
the waist stitching line and points down! costura
de la
entrepierna
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We are addressing the common pants alterations. For more, see our book Pants for Real People. The
section called “crotch oddities” is very helpful!
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FIT TIP: Pin 1” (2.5cm) wide elastic around your waist. Adjust elastic so the BOTTOM
of the elastic is where you want the bottom of the waistband to land. With legs
apart, pull up the tissue, centering it on your body so the side seam is perpendicular
to the floor. You can either put the tissue under the elastic or pin it to the outside of
the elastic. Match the bottom of the elastic to the waist stitching line. Start with the
BACK. Pin the back to the elastic first to hold the tissue in place.
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QUICK TIP: Sew Velcro® to the ends of the elastic so you can quickly fasten it around your waist.

FIT TIP: Where is your waist? Technically it is at the top of your hip bone, but some people want to wear
pants higher or lower. YOU decide where YOU want to wear your pants. The 1” (2.5cm) elastic should
be where you want the 1” (2.5cm) waistband to sit. The elastic will not necessarily be parallel to the
floor. It is OK to have an uneven waist.
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WAIST WIDTH
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If you can’t get center front and center back of the tissue to meet your center front
and center back, you can eliminate your front darts. Most people don’t need them.
You can always add small front darts later in fabric if needed after all. Back darts can
be made narrower or eliminated if not needed because you are very flat in back. If
you have a pucker at the bottom of the dart, they are too deep or not needed at all.
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Another way to get more waist room when you have a FULL TUMMY is to straighten the
center front. Cut on the center front to the circle from the outer edge and pivot the fly
extension out about 1/2” (1.3cm). Fill in with tissue and tape in place. You have just added
1” (2.5cm) across your tummy and no one will be the wiser.
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HIP WIDTH
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If you need more width in the hip area, add a “chunk” of

Perfect Pattern Paper to the side seams. Cut tissue wide
enough to allow for 1” (2.5cm) seam allowances. What you
add to the front should be exactly the same as the back.
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Be neat! Slip no more than 1/2” (1.3cm) of tissue under pattern edge and tape on TOP. Get used to having tape
on the RIGHT SIDE of the tissue and pressing on the WRONG SIDE. Develop this as a habit so you don’t have
tape shriveling up under the heat of the iron.
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In order to make sure you have the same amount of tissue added to the front and
back, pin the original cut lines of the front and back, wrong sides together, so
seams are sticking out. Then trim the tissue you added to the side front and back
seams so the amounts added are even.
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When you fit for the pants with pockets, add to both the
side and side front separately if you need width below
SIDE FRONT
the pocket. COSTADO
DEL
FRENTE
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PANTS TOO LOOSE

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If the pants are loose, pin deeper side seams. NOTE: After doing all
of your fitting, you will then do the final fine tuning of the side seams.
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FOLLOW THIS FITTING ORDER:

CROTCH LENGTH VERSUS CROTCH DEPTH
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Altering one can affect the other. Keep this in mind CROTCH
LENGTH
as you are fitting. If you lengthen the depth, you Largo de

entrepierna
may have to take in the inseams to shorten the

CROTCH CROTCH
added length. DEPTH DEPTH
PROFUNIDAD
PROFUNIDAD DE LA
DE LA ENTREPIERNA
ENTREPIERNA
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TOO LONG OR SHORT IN THE CROTCH?

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The crotch seamline should be touching your body. In fabric it will

grow a bit giving you 1/2” (1.3cm) ease. If the crotch is hanging
lower, tuck on the lengthen and shorten lines evenly on front and
back pieces until crotch seam touches your body. See how to
shorten and lengthen below. Too Long Tuck
Demasiado Doblar
largo
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If the crotch is too long: Tuck on the lengthen or shorten lines
evenly on front and back pieces until crotch seam touches your Juntar las lineas
y hacer
un pliegue
body. Draw a line parallel to and above the line printed on the Bring Lines
Together
pattern. Bring the lines together and crease. Pin in place then tape.
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If crotch is too short: Lengthen the tissue.

Add this
amount
Agregar
esta
cantidad
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Lineas Horizontales
Cut on the lengthen or shorten alteration line on the pattern. Pin one
alineadas con
los bordes cortados.
edge of the tissue along a horizontal line on Perfect Pattern Paper.

Spread the amount needed and pin the other edge along a horizontal
Horizontal lines
line on the Pattern Paper. Tape in place. Trim away excess paper. align with cut
edges
Vertical lines
NOTE: Do not tape until everything is flat and lined up perfectly! align with cut
edges
Lineas Verticales
alineadas con
los bordes cortados.
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BAGGY BACK
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If pants droop in the lower back near the inseam, pull the pants
up at the center back until the back hangs straight. You will trim
the excess, leaving a 1” (2.5cm) seam allowance. If you can’t get
the back high enough, you may need to let out the back inseam or
lower the back crotch seam to gain length.
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FLAT DERRIERE
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PINCH
If there is too much width across the back, using the vertical
EXCESS
lines as a guide, pin out the excess tissue. If the waist HERE
becomes too small, add to the side seam at the waist or make Pellizcar
darts narrower or eliminate them.
If you are flat, eliminate or narrow the back darts.
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SMILES IN THE CROTCH

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If you have pulls from the crotch and the grainline is pulling toward
the inseam, you need to let out the inseam. If the pulls are on the
front inseam, let out the front. If they are on the back, let out the
back inseam. Drop the tissue and re-pin. You will need to add Pattern
Paper if you need more than an inch.
GRAINLINE
Droit Fil
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PRO TIP: If you add a lot to one inseam and not the other, the length can change.
So always start pinning the legs at the hem. It is the “control.” If one piece is longer
at the top, just trim off the extra length to match the other leg.
TRIM
Recortar
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FROWNS
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If you see vertical wrinkles in the thigh area, it

means you need less crotch length. Often the
back crotch is too full if you have a flat derriere. New Seam Lines
Nueva Linea
de Costura
Pin the inseam deeper on front, back, or both
wherever you see these wrinkles.
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FULL INNER THIGHS AND KNEES Original

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Stitching Line
If your upper thigh area is fluffy or your legs come together in the Linea de pespunte
original
knee area, add to the front and back as shown. This also helps when
the pants feel tight on your front thighs when walking.
New
Stitching Line
Nueva linea
de pespunte
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FULL CALVES
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If your back calves stick out further than your derriere, let out the back leg only from just
above the knee to the hem on both sides until the tissue falls smoothly over your calf.
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STILL A LITTLE EXTRA FULLNESS AT THE LOWEST PART OF THE DERRIERE
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If you are really flat, and you still have excess width across the back just above your
crotch curve, straighten the back crotch seam to remove the excess width. (Slanted
seams are for small waists with full hips. If you are flat, a straight seam matches your body
better.)
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FINE TUNE WAIST AND HIP WIDTH

This is the last thing you will fine tune. Previous alterations affected width. So pin side seams close to the skin
following your body curve.
Mark the tissue at the bottom of your elastic. That is your waist seamline.
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Then take off tissue and mark where the side seam pins are.
Unpin tissue and draw your stitching lines for sides, inseams, and
waist seams. Leave 1” (2.5cm) seam allowance from waist, sides,
and inseam stitching lines. Trim crotch seam to 5/8” (1.5cm) if
you’ve used the lower back crotch stitching lines.
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LENGTH
With shoes on, check the length of the pants. Lengthen or shorten using the lines on the tissue. It is best to
make the pants a little longer than your desired finished length in case you decide to shorten the crotch in fab-
ric, otherwise you will have high waters.
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WAISTBAND
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Trim around the largest waistband. Wrap the waistband tissue around your waist. Trim ends
leaving 2”-3” (5-7.5cm) extra on each end for now.
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SEWING DIRECTIONS
NOTE: Instructions are given for Pants with fly and pockets.
ADDITIONAL OPTION:
Note: Either pant can be made with or without pockets.
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PANTS WITH FLY FRONT AND POCKETS

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FRONT AND BACK

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Stitch dart in FRONT (1). Press fold of dart toward

center.
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Pro tip: We often fuse interfacing to the fly extensions

to give them more body. We use PerfectFuse Sheer or
Medium.
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Zipper:
We told you to buy a 9”(23cm) zipper because we prefer a zipper that is longer than you need. The
slider won’t get in your way and cause crooked TOPSTITCHing.
Our fly front puts the zipper 5/8”(1.5cm) from the overlap edge so you will never see the zipper. Use
any color you want!!

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FINISH raw edge of front extension, if desired.

CF CF
Snip-mark fold lines for the overlap and under-
lap. The overlap fold is the center front (CF) on
right front. The underlap fold is the foldline on
left front; which is 3/8”(1cm) from the center
front towards the front opening edge. Also snip-
mark the center front on the left front. Mark the
circle where the zipper opening begins.
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Pin the crotch seam together at that circle. Stitch

front sections together at center, between large
circle and notch. Backstitch at large circle.
Fit Tip: If you are short in the front crotch, you can
move the circle higher.
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Fold right front (overlap) under, from crotch seam

to CF snip. Press.
Fold left front (underlap) under on foldline, from

crotch seam allowance edge to underlap snip.
Press.
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Place basting tape on underlap side of zipper.

Peel away protective paper and stick to underlap.
Stitch next to fold using a zipper foot.

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Place basting tape on the edge of overlap. Peel

away protective paper. Line up CF snips and stick
overlap in place.
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Lay fronts on a flat surface and pin horizontally

through all layers to prevent scooting of top
layer while stitching. Place the last pin just below
the zipper stop so you can stitch just below it.
PRO TIP: If you see a bubble at the bottom of the

zipper on the overlap side after pinning, unpin
and run your hand from the zipper opening on
the overlap side up to the top. This will smooth
the bubble out by scooting some of the fabric to
the top. Re-pin.
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TOPSTITCH 1” (2.5cm) from center front using

one of these methods to help you stitch straight:
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* Draw stitching line with chalk or water soluble marker.
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* Stick pins into fabric 1” (2.5cm) from fold. Place

ScotchTM MagicTM Tape (green box) next to the pins.
(Do not use tape on napped fabrics). Or, use two rows of
1/2” (1.3cm) tape, one next to the fold and one next to it
to create the 1”(2.5cm) guideline.
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Stitch next to the tape. When you get to the curve, step on the accelerator and go! It’s easier to make a
nice curve when you stitch fast. Remove tape.
Pro Tip: Put a pin just below metal stop at bottom of zipper so you will know to sew below the pin and
not break a needle.
Pockets:
NOTE: Skip Steps 9-17 if eliminating the pocket.
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Pin each POCKET (2) section to upper side edges

of front, matching notches and circles.
To keep this bias edge from stretching, place the

pocket pattern piece on top and make the fabric
the same size. (Often it will have already grown.
Simply ease it back to the length of the pattern.)
2 2
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To stabilize, sew seam tape or the lighter weight

Stay Tape into the seam. (The selvage of lining
can also be used as tape.)
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Stitch through all layers. Trim seam

allowances. UNDERSTITCH pocket.

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Press the pocket over the seam allowances

toward the side.
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PRO TIP: Turn the pocket to inside and press. Roll the
seam 1/8” (3mm) to inside when pressing so the pocket
won’t show. Pressing on a ham allows you to pin the
pocket to the ham, anchoring it as you press.
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OPTIONAL: Pin to prevent the layers from

slipping and causing a puckered edge.
EDGESTITCH the FINISHed slanted edge 1/8”
(3mm) from the edge.
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On a flat surface, with pants right side up, pin

front to SIDE FRONT (3), matching circles. Pin
side front in place.
3 3
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PRO TIP: Check both sides before sewing. To ensure
right and left pants fronts are identical, check side fronts
before attaching permanently to make sure they are
lapped under the front exactly the same on both sides.
The distances at the arrows should be the same. If your
hips are uneven, you will lower the waistband on one
side and that will make one pocket shorter, but at this
point, make sure they are even.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flip front of pants out of way and pin edges of

pocket and side front together. Don’t match
edges if they are uneven. Just make sure pocket
bags are flat with no bubbles.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fold pants front toward side seam. Stitch pocket

and side front sections together.
FINISH lower and front edges of pocket if de-

sired.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Baste front to side front along seamlines at upper

and side edges.
TOPSTITCH side edge of front to pocket, from

upper edge to 2” (5cm). This prevents pocket
from gapping when on your body.
The stitching can be right on top of the edge
stitching so it is invisible.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stitch darts in BACK (4). Press fold of darts

toward center. Stitch center back seam from 1
1/2” (3.8cm) from inseam to top. Press seam
open to curve.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TIME TO FIT-AS-YOU-SEW
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin side and inseams as shown. The first pins

go in at the waistline seam and crotch stitching
line. Point pins down. Try on for a quick fit check.
You may need to take in or let out inseams. The
crotch seam is bias and if it stretched you may
need to deepen inseams, especially in the back
as the back curve is longer. You may want to pull
the pants up for a shorter crotch depth.
TOO LOOSE OR TOO TIGHT?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Horizontal wrinkles mean the pants are tight. Vertical
wrinkles mean they are too loose. Where you see them,
re-pin the side seams to fit. Adjust side seams to fit your
curve, leaving enough ease so you can sit down.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can fit knits and stretch wovens tightly as they will give.
HIGH HIP
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If one side of your body is fuller than the other, your hip
is probably higher on that side as well. Generally, we
JALAR HACIA ARRIBA
pull up the pants on the lower flatter side. You may need
to deepen the seam on the flatter side as well.
PRENDER CON
ALFILERES MÁS
PROFUNDAMENTE
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CROTCH FULLNESS
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There is bias in the crotch area that can grow in fabric.

The back crotch is longer than the front so it grows the
most. If the front or back crotch looks too full, take a
deeper seam in the inseams If only the back is full, just
deepen the back inseam.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TIGHT THIGHS
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you see “smiles” or wrinkles pointing to the inseam,

let the inseam out where you see them. It might be both
front and back inseams or just the front inseam. It is
where you see the smiles.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CROTCH DEPTH
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If the crotch is a little long, pull the pants up evenly all New Waistline
the way around. Nueva Línea de cintura
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If the crotch feels short, pull the pants down evenly all
New Waistline
the way around. Mark the new waist seam at the bottom Nueva Línea de cintura
of the elastic.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DARTS
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
New
If darts pucker in front, make them narrower. Front darts Nuevo
can be eliminated if you have a tummy. Back darts may

need lengthening if gravity has tugged on your derriere.
If your back is flat, you may need to narrow the back
darts too or even eliminate them.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pull Up
If there is a puddle of fabric below darts or the dart area JALAR HACIA ARRIBA
if you’ve left them out, pull pants up over dart areas only.
If puddle is gone, mark new stitching line at bottom of
elastic. I call this “tweaking” your fit.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FINE TUNE FIT TO YOUR SHAPE

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin side seams and darts to replicate your shape. If you

are really curvy, you may need to add curved darts.
Some of our students get three back darts! Or, curve the
top of the side seams.
Este Este no
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a “pillow” near the side back seam, place a curved dart there.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you moved pins, chalk-mark new stitching line at

pins on wrong side. Unpin and re-pin pants, right sides
together.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REMAINING SEAMS
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin back to front at inside leg edges, right sides

together, matching notches. Stitch. Trim seam
allowances to 5/8” (1.5cm) if desired.
Pro Tip: For dry cleanable fabrics, leave

the 1” (2.5cm) seam allowance. Design-
ers do. For a washable pant such as stretch
cotton, I often sere the seam allowances togeth-
er, trimming them to 3/8” (1cm) or 5/8” (1.5cm).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Match inseams and stitch remainder of lower

crotch. Stitch lower third again 1/4” (6mm) from
first stitching. Trim close to second stitching.
Press back seam open to curve if you haven’t
already and finish the seam allowances.
------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIT TIP: Does the crotch seam look like this? Sew straight
across. Stitch the lower crotch again and trim to 1/4”
(6mm).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stitch back to front at sides. Trim seam

allowances to 5/8” (1.5cm) if necessary.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EASESTITCH waist edge of pants between zipper

stitching.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WAISTBAND
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side

of WAISTBAND (5), following 5 5
manufacturer’s instructions.
PRO TIP: Monofilament nylon waistband

interfacing is lightweight, will not stretch,
and won’t roll (even after lunch!). “Per-
fect Waistbands” interfacing is 1” (2.5cm)
wide and comes in a 6-yard package
with instructions. (Armoflexx is no longer
available. However, “Perfect Waistbands”
is still called Armoflexx in Australia).
Some patterns are changing the standard width to 1” (2.5cm) from 1-1/4” (3.2cm) when using this inter-
facing. (Available at palmerpletsch.com).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark the 5/8”

(1.5cm) stitching
line on one long
edge of your
waistband with
machine basting.
(Now it’s marked
on both right and
wrong sides of the
fabric!)
Place interfacing
next to the stitching line on WRONG SIDE of waistband. Stitch interfacing to the seam allowance. Fold
the waistband over the interfacing tightly and press.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIT TIP: We have a WONDERFUL new way to fit a

waistband. Try on the pants without the waistband
pinned to it. Wrap the waistband around your waist
JUST AS IT WILL BE SEWN. When the waistband feels
comfortably snug, pin the ends together. Distribute the
ease at the top of the pants under the waistband until
smooth. Chalk-mark all matching points such as center
front and back, darts, pockets and side seams. Now
you will know where to pin the waistband to the pants,
making it fit perfectly, even if your right and left sides
are different! We call it the QUICK FIT BAND TRICK!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin waistband to pants, lining up chalk-marks to

matching points. If your waist seam allowance
and your interfacing are both 1” (2.5cm), then
just match the top edges. Pin. With the waistband
on top, sew just below the interfacing. Your feed
dogs will help ease the pants to the waistband.
OPTIONAL: Trim the pants seam allowance to
3/8” (1cm). Some people don’t trim to add body
to the waistband.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fold waistband in half, right

sides together, with seams
turned up. Don’t sew through the
monofilament nylon interfacing
because it will be too bulky.
Trim the monofilament nylon
interfacing just inside the stitching
line. Stitch the ends, backstitching
at the beginning and the end of
the seam. After stitching, trim
the seam to 1/4” (6mm) and cut
corners diagonally.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PRO TIP: Generally, we sew the ends of the waistband
even with the overlap edge and leave a 1”-2” (2.5cm-
5cm) extension on the underlap edge. To make the
ends firm so the fastener won’t pull out and show,
fuse everything together. Use a 1” x 2” (2.5cm x 5cm)
rectangle of fusible web. Wrap it over the interfacing.
Turn waistband to the right side. Press the ends until the
web melts.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clip the seam allowance on the underside of the

waistband about 1-1/2” (3.8cm) from the zipper
teeth. Hand SLIPSTITCH the seam allowance at
the ends of the waistband together. FINISH the
long edge of the underside of the waistband
with zigzagging or serging, leaving at least a
1/4” (6mm) seam allowance. (FINISH earlier if
you wish). Then fold the waistband tightly over
the monofilament nylon interfacing and pin flat.
Note that the interfacing acts as a cushion for the
seam allowances, making the right side of the
waistband very flat and smooth.
Stitch from the right side in the well of the seam to hold the waistband in place. This is less bulky than
turning under the seam allowance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sew hook and eye closure to waistband as

shown.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HEMS
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turn up a 1-1/4” (3.2cm) hem on lower edge

of pants. Baste close to fold. FINISH raw edge.
Hand-sew in place. Press.
If you choose to crease the pants, match inseams

and side seams from hem to the knee. Crease
with an iron following the grain to the crotch
area.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OPTIONAL: PANTS WITH INVISIBLE CENTER BACK ZIPPER

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FRONT AND BACK

Zipper:
We love the invisible zipper, but of course you can use a centered or lapped, all of these instructions are
found in Pants For Real People.
With an invisible zipper, you sew in the zipper first, THEN sew the crotch seam below the zipper.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuse a strip of interfacing 3/4” (2cm) wide

and the length of the zipper to the wrong
sides of BACK (4) for added body. If the stable
direction is lengthwise, it will also prevent the
bias edge from stretching. We use PerfectFuse
Sheer or Medium. Finish the edges of the seam 4
allowances in the zipper area before putting in
the zipper.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Open zipper. From the wrong side, press the

zipper teeth flat so you can sew close to them
with a regular zipper foot.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRO TIP: To stick the zipper to your fabric, use 1/8”

(3mm) double-stick basting tape on the zipper tape.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Place open zipper, right side down, onto right

side of right BACK (4) opening edge. The top
edge of the zipper stop should be 1/4” (6mm)
below the 1” (2.5cm) waist stitching line. The
long edge should be along the edge of the
fabric so that when you sew next to the teeth,
you are sewing 1/2” (1.3cm) from the edge.
(When zipped, the zipper takes up another 1/8”
(3mm) of fabric, making it a 5/8” (1.5cm) seam.)
Sew next to teeth until front of foot hits the slider.
If you need a shorter zipper opening, move the
zipper up. It is OK to sew over the teeth when attaching the waistband, then cut the excess off the top. If
this were a faced pant, you’d shorten the zipper from the bottom instead.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin or stick remaining zipper tape, right side

down, onto right side of left back opening edge,
placing zipper teeth on seamline. Stitch.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin crotch seam on back below zipper, right sides

together. Unzip zipper. Stitch 1-1/2” (3.8cm) from
inner leg seam to end of zipper stitching, using a
zipper foot.
---------------------------------------------------------- 1 1/2"
(3.8 cm)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRO TIP: To avoid a pucker at the base of the zipper, 1/2"(1.3cm)
start sewing 1/2” (1.3cm) above and 1/8” (3mm) away

from the end of the zipper stitching on the 5/8” (1.5cm)
stitching line. With presser foot up and zipper teeth 1/8"(3mm)
standing on their side, lower needle into exact spot

you want to start sewing. DO NOT BACKSTITCH. Lower 1/2"(1.3cm)
the presser foot and stitch to the end of the seam. Pull
top of 5/8"seam
threads to one side at the beginning of the seam and tie allowance bottom of
a knot. parte superior zipper stitching
del margen parte inferior
de costura de 1.5cm del pespunte
de la cremallera
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To strengthen the zipper, sew the bottom of the

tape to the seam allowances ONLY, using your
machine.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stitch darts in back. Press fold of darts toward

center.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stitch center front seam from upper

edge, ending 1 1/2”(3.8cm) from
inner leg seam.
Pin side and inseams, wrong sides

together, and follow the “Time to Fit
as you Sew” tips for PANTS WITH
THE FLY FRONT on page 5, Step 19.
1
1 1/2"
(3.8 cm)
After fine tuning the fit and stitching
the sides and inseams, return here to
apply the waistband.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WAISTBAND
Prepare WAISTBAND (5) following PANTS WITH FLY FRONT: WAISTBAND instructions. See page 5,
step 24.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIT TIP: We have a WONDERFUL new way to fit a waistband. Try on

the pants without the waistband pinned to it. Wrap the waistband
around your waist JUST AS IT WILL BE SEWN. When the waistband
feels comfortably snug, pin the ends together. Distribute the ease
at the top of the pants under the waistband until smooth. Chalk all
matching points such as center front and back, darts, pockets and
side seams. Now you will know where to pin the waistband to the
pants, making it fit perfectly, even if your right and left sides are
different! We call it the QUICK FIT BAND TRICK!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin waistband to pants, lining up chalk marks to

matching points. If your waist seam allowance
and your interfacing are both 1” (2.5cm), then
just match the top edges. Pin. With the waistband
on top, sew just below the interfacing. Your feed
dogs will help ease the pants to the waistband.
OPTIONAL: Trim the pants seam allowance to
3/8” (1cm). Some people don’t trim to add body
to the waistband.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fold waistband in half, right sides together, with seams turned up. Don’t sew through the monofilament
nylon interfacing because it will be too bulky. Trim the interfacing just inside the stitching line. Stitch
the ends, backstitching at the beginning and the end of the seam. After stitching, trim the seam to 1/4”
(6mm) and cut corners diagonally.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
50 copy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRO TIP: Generally, we sew the ends of the waistband

even with the pants and leave a 1”-2” (2.5cm-5cm)
extension from the pants edge, for the underlap. To
make the ends firm so the fastener won’t pull out and
show, fuse everything together. Use a 1” x 2” (2.5cm
x 5cm) rectangle of fusible web. Wrap it over the
interfacing. Turn waistband to the right side. Press the
ends until the web melts.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clip the seam allowance on the underside of the

waistband about 1-1/2” (3.8cm) from the zipper
teeth. Hand SLIPSTITCH the seam allowance at
ends of waistband together. FINISH the long
edge of the underside of the waistband with
zigzagging or serging, leaving at least a 1/4”
(6mm) seam allowance. (FINISH earlier if you
wish). Then fold the waistband tightly over the
interfacing and pin flat. Note that the interfacing
acts as a cushion for the seam allowances,
making the right side of the waistband very flat
and smooth.
Stitch from the right side in the well of the seam to hold the waistband in place. This is less bulky than
turning under the seam allowance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sew hook and eye closure to waistband as

shown.
Hem pants following PANTS WITH FLY FRONT:

HEMS on page 6, Step 29.
NOTE: Instructions are given for Pants with fly
and pockets.
ADDITIONAL OPTION:
Note: Either pant can be made with or without

pockets.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Congrats!
You've completed your sewing adventure!
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YOUR look!
Post your pattern and tag us at
@McCALLPATTERNCOMPANY and use #MCCALLSPATTERNS
for a chance to be featured on our social media!
Look for more McCall's PDF patterns at McCALLPATTERN.COM
1-800-255-2762
Copyright © 2018 CSS Industries, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes.

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M6901

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 2

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 3

CUTTING AND MARKING

60” (150 CM)

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 5

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 6

>> EASESTITCH >> SLIPSTITCH

NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long

OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding.

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 7

LEARN TO FIT PANTS WITH OUR MOST UP-TO-DATE METHODS

Pro Tip: Alter on a cardboard cutting

TISSUE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

The pattern pieces have BUILT-IN fit help: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

•1” (2.5cm) inseam

•1” (2.5cm) waistline seam on front and back for

markings for stitching your back crotch seam 3

•If genetics has given you a flat derriere, use

•How is the length?. Adjust using lengthening/

LINEAS PARA ALARGAR O

MCCA L L' S > > PD F PAT TERNS 9

Tug lightly on tissue to see if the crotch is taped securely.

PANTS WITHOUT POCKETS

Foldline for left side

side, (underlap foldline). (línea de doblez

PANTS WITHOUT POCKETS

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 0

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 1

If you need more width in the hip area, add a “chunk” of

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 2

PANTS TOO LOOSE

FOLLOW THIS FITTING ORDER:

as you are fitting. If you lengthen the depth, you Largo de

may have to take in the inseams to shorten the

TOO LONG OR SHORT IN THE CROTCH?

The crotch seamline should be touching your body. In fabric it will

If crotch is too short: Lengthen the tissue.

edge of the tissue along a horizontal line on Perfect Pattern Paper.

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 4

darts narrower or eliminate them.

If you are flat, eliminate or narrow the back darts.

SMILES IN THE CROTCH

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 5

If you see vertical wrinkles in the thigh area, it

FULL INNER THIGHS AND KNEES Original

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 6

FINE TUNE WAIST AND HIP WIDTH

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 7

PANTS WITH FLY FRONT AND POCKETS

FRONT AND BACK

Stitch dart in FRONT (1). Press fold of dart toward

Pro tip: We often fuse interfacing to the fly extensions

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 8

FINISH raw edge of front extension, if desired.

Pin the crotch seam together at that circle. Stitch

Fold right front (overlap) under, from crotch seam

Fold left front (underlap) under on foldline, from

Place basting tape on underlap side of zipper.

MCCA L L' S > > PDF PAT TERNS 1 9

Place basting tape on the edge of overlap. Peel

Lay fronts on a flat surface and pin horizontally

Stitch dart in FRONT (1). Press fold of dart toward

Pin the crotch seam together at that circle. Stitch

Fold right front (overlap) under, from crotch seam

Place basting tape on underlap side of zipper.

Place basting tape on the edge of overlap. Peel

Lay fronts on a flat surface and pin horizontally

Pin each POCKET (2) section to upper side edges

To stabilize, sew seam tape or the lighter weight

Stitch through all layers. Trim seam

Press the pocket over the seam allowances

OPTIONAL: Pin to prevent the layers from

On a flat surface, with pants right side up, pin

Flip front of pants out of way and pin edges of

Fold pants front toward side seam. Stitch pocket

Baste front to side front along seamlines at upper

Stitch darts in BACK (4). Press fold of darts

Pin side and inseams as shown. The first pins

Pin back to front at inside leg edges, right sides

Match inseams and stitch remainder of lower

Stitch back to front at sides. Trim seam

Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side

Mark the 5/8”

Pin waistband to pants, lining up chalk-marks to

Fold waistband in half, right

Clip the seam allowance on the underside of the

Sew hook and eye closure to waistband as

Turn up a 1-1/4” (3.2cm) hem on lower edge

Fuse a strip of interfacing 3/4” (2cm) wide

Open zipper. From the wrong side, press the

Place open zipper, right side down, onto right

Pin or stick remaining zipper tape, right side

Pin crotch seam on back below zipper, right sides

To strengthen the zipper, sew the bottom of the

Stitch darts in back. Press fold of darts toward

Stitch center front seam from upper