PROCESS DOCUMENT

BA (HONS) FASHION DESIGN

SURESH DAS
UGFD- 2016-20
LEVEL - 1
SEC- B
Contents
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind
support and help of many individuals and organizations. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to Prof.
bhaskar Mitra (Module leader), Prof. Ashima Jain Kukreti, Prof. priti srvastava, Prof. Sumit kr Pruyadar-
shi and Prof. Sriranjan Srinivasan.
I am highly indebted to my faculty for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing
necessary information regarding the project & also for their support in completing the project.
I would like to express my gratitude towards my parents & Friends for their kind co-operation and en-
couragement which help me in completion of this project.
I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons Specially Biswa Bangla (Govt.
of West Bengal) for giving me such attention and time.
My thanks and appreciations also go to my colleague in developing the project and people who have will-
ingly helped me out with their abilities.
 visual culture
WEEK 1

In the very first week we have introduced brief of this semester As reflection of last module in design was very good understanding of different
in design thinking, cad representation, contextual, craft and trend study approaches of design process. I came to know that Design is not only problem solving
research method under the module “Visual culture” . The aim of this but also a problem setting for a designer. In this module I am very much clear about the
module is to help students to develop visual literacy and a range of criti- direction of the module with all learning outcomes.
cal approaches to interpret visual design language and its understanding
in context to contemporary and historical aspects. Additional to under-
stand the significance the cultural period contexts to contemporary and
historical aspects . additionally to understand the significance of cultural
and period contexts relative to clothing in India with specific focus on
craft. this module is post requisite of Fashion studies1 module in semes-
ter 3.

Process Document

For any design process it is very impotent to document it. Visual Diary
to document personal development by including things such as the pro-
cesses that I used for any design project, it is my own methodology of
understanding, analysis, strengths, any challenges, frustrations and your
successes, failures and more than that visually.
There is different ways of documenting, but I like to document
it in digital method. because It will help connect more people through
digital media and as well as will help me to improve on my personal skill.

I like to travel a lot, so photography always been my passion. Apart from

that i like to read book, watch sports, movies, music, Face-book, Insta-
gram and many more which makes me inspire in different time.

Source : Paintings of India

 INTRODUCTION
Good design makes me happy has been my personal visual dairy
for the last semester in my BA Fashion Design degree course, and I am
looking for more. Looking back on the archives makes me extremely
happy and so inspired. In this semester I want to learn and understand
design through visual, as the module is named as “Visual Culture”.
Where I going to learn about visual literacy, Research method, Visual
vocabulary and how to Analyze all this data and then a range of critical
approaches to interpret visual design language and its understanding in
contexts relative to clothing in India with Specific focus on the Indian
Craft.
Before reaching the main focus of the particular semester we are
suppose to understand the term “Design” and its different approaches.
In the First class (#week 1) we discussed “What is Design?” and “Exper-
imental Design” and “Design for India”.
For me, Design is not just about to fonts, colors, Image, fabrics,
beauty,, aesthetics or a layout that a designer choose. Yes, we call it de-
sign and the result is often called as design, but really design is about
problem solving. Great design solves real challenges. Design is a plan,
Plan for construction, human interaction a system or a product, Its look
and its functionality and a work process for a particular reason.
Source : Pinterest

Design for India Planning for second Heaven

In this class we have discussed on “ What is Indian design ?” and how to “Design for India”. This is the Question we have all been asking, in conferences,
workshops (“What next”.. by pearl Academy..2016) Design school (MIT, IIT’s), other design school, everywhere there is a discussion on design. Indian design
dilemma is far too complected for an easy answer because we are a smattering of different geographic, topographic, climes, cultures, languages, religion and cos-
tumes. We are wedged between the modern and the traditional, with an additional weight of being a post colonial society, heavily influenced by west.
 Why Design Thinking

“ V ery little is known about the design in India because very little has been written about it
anywhere”- MP Ranjan, NID
We have constantly been amazed at the great creative actions of humanity, which can be seen in their
key inventions and major evolutionary steps that shaped human civilization and this has been initiat-
ed by generation of known creators over time immemorial.
In the same time it is necessary for
1. Understanding the concept : Framing intentions and goals
Learning to understand the context and the social and cultural, material, economic and polit-
ical situation that usually leads to trying to get clarity form a very complex set of singles and process
from the real world that help provide the essence of a direction for design thought and action.
If we think for our country, it has different context for these all, we are the oldest civilization
in the history, we have different aspect of visulise things, communicating in different manner. So its
time to enhance our own culture through design thinking everywhere. To establish our own Idelogy
in different creative approach, which will create great impact in the world of design.
Source : What’s Next by Pearlacademy
2. Reserch, knowledge and Insights: Plumbing Information Sources and Di-
mension
Design learning needs to develop attitudes as well as ability with tools of information access
processing. In context of design for India, it is necessary to understand, what is our strength, where
we needs to more focus, analyzing different crafts, arts, human interaction system of India, way of
learning is totally different from others. I think for a successful design it is very impotent to have great
knowledge over the subject and insight of the subject of design.
3. Finding the Structure : Mapping of resources and oppertunity
Design problems are better understood by juxtaposing factual and observational findings
with new proposals and imagined possibilities that are visualize in early stage. in context of Design
for India, we have to make our design for international market. For that it is very much necessary to
understand different possibilities, stakeholder, market, need of the market and many more because
design is not an art.
Reference : A course abstract paper for an elective course by Prof. MP Ranjan, NID
: dilogue by Suchitra Balsubhramaniam, Authaor & Human Rights Activist accessed on 15/01/2018
: Trends & Future , A reserch paper by John Thacker in a BBC late Show

 Visual literacy & visual communication

Further researching on the visual literary I found dif-

ferent aesthetics for different sign-age. Such as in India the
“OK” symbol in Russia, Brazil, Turkey and the Mediterra-
nean is a slang. By showing the symbol you would be calling
someone “Homosexual”. on the other hand, in France and
Belgium it means calling someone a cipher. (source- www.
scoophoop.com)

This blessing gesture of extending palm out to stop

someone in Africa and some other country, but in Greece it
is akin to telling people to go to hell, while in Africa, it is a
slang to say that they have five fathers.

In urban community of metropolitan city we are used to follow western in different way, which are not appropriate or meaningless to India. We really dont
able to communicate to the very same way for our country. Despite our own lack of visual literacy in this regard, misconceptions that rural people, or even just
illiterate people are not smart because they may be uneducated is dangerous assumption (says Aarthi Parthasarathy, film maker, in an Interview).
In India 80% of its population in rural areas, are mostly village. So if we want to design for India firstly we need to communicate to its mass area of popula-
tion. For me “Design for India Design for its Villages”. I found some Ideas to design for India these are..
 Project - 2

Brief :- Find any problem in or around you and come up with solution for the same. support your solution with reserch on the problem. Do explore
different probable design Ideas which you may consider.

Problem setting
At the initial stage of problem setting I was very much confused. I started searching problems on In-
ternet in spite of looking at my every day experiences. Initially I took the problem of “future of textile waste
management” and I had to come up with a solution in a limited time. It looks like huge topic and in the given
time it looks like unsuccessful project. and I quit.
On the same day I came back from college, I got a product that I have ordered from Amazon. When i
was unpacking I found it got damage due to the removal of the tape.
Research Direction- As we all habituated to ignore this type of silly incident, but this time I find differ-
ent way of how to reuse it. For that I has to very much careful on removal on tape so that it can be reuse else
2nd person will not be able to reuse it.
Analyzing the step of removing cello tape. I found, it was highly glued so that the product can be safe
during the transportation.

Problem statement : I have little bit of Idea of packaging. But Industrial Packaging is bit different. It
mainly done by machine high quality of adhesive. The high quality of plastic is used which is heat and water
sensitive when in contact with tape and paper. During the unpacking the surface of paper torn because it has
Source : Indiamart.com
less elastic properties as compare to plastic. When glue dries it making stronger bond between the two compo-
nents.

During the unpacking it is not possible to transit dry glue to its original state. So it is hard to remove the tape. and the paper box damages. As per my direction
of design I have to reuse this box. There are possibilities to cut the tape by a seasor or other cutting material.

Target Market :- Though it was my problem, as per research Online almost 46% of population in urban areas faced the same problem. There is different
quality of Packaging box used in industry and every time its not possible to remove the tape safely, nor even cutting by a seasor. So I think there is oppertunity to
work on this project.
 Box damaging during unpacking

Different types of Packeging box

1
2

Compromised Box

3 4

Damages durin g the unpacking of box

6
5. Ahemed Industries ltd. 1. Indiamart
6. Indiamart 2. Indiamart
3. Indiamart Wrong size box
4. Devtransport
 1 2 3

Weak Box Wrong Packaging material Poor job on packaging

Apart from the Industrial process of Packaging where there are difficulties of doing the good job and select the proper material. Which prohibit the reuse
of the packaging box.

4
5 7
6

Different tools for packaging

1,2,3,4- Indiamart
5,6,7,- Salazar packing
 The different tools are available in the market are not sufficient
to remove the box tape safely. And some time they are harmful to
worker, working with these tool.

1 2
Then more research on the materials i.e tapes are made with differ-
ent types rubber, cellulosic fiber.

I think, It will be more easier to open that thick tapes when it was
processed. If I add a thin aluminum wire inside the tape. that will
easily tear the tape on removal. And the box will be safely recovered
for another purpose.
4
3

5
Different Tape Removing tool

1,2,3,4- Salazar Packing pvt ltd.

5.- ETI, self edited

Probable design solution Idea - 1

 No Tape Plz

Probable Design Idea - 2 Probable Design Idea - 3

In this case during the manufacturing of tape one portion can be In this case we can plan the box with self locking system, as they are
left with out adhesive and might be differently colored for identification. already available the market for small container. This can be also applied
and the tape can be easily removed by this technique. with better design and locking system of the packaging cartoon.

2,3.- Illustration by Suresh

 Research Method

In this particular class we have discussed on different research method such as Pri-
mary, Secondary and tertiary research method in terms of visual and Informative
text. Then we came through few question on how to make an survey?
Q1. Explain different way of survey conducted?
Q2. What are the Popular method of survey?
Q3. Make an questioner on “ Is Indian Teenagers ready for craft influenced Fashion”
In the given categories - A) Street wear B) Evening wear C) Formal wear??
There are more survey which are dependent on span time
1) CROSS SECTIONAL SURVEY- collecting information in single span of time.
such as Online survey.
2. LONGITUDE SURVEY- When researchers attempts to gather information
over a time period
On finding these answers- There are different types of survey -
1) QUESTIONNAIRES- Its an paper- pencil instrument that is ad-
ministrated to the respondents, These are mainly Closed ended question,
which are followed by response option. However there are open ended
question to explore the answers of respondents.
I think this the ideal for open ended question, bu t on the same
time limited the researcher understanding of the respondents answer.
2) INTERVIEWS:- Between the to board types of survey, this is more
personal and probing. Questioner do not provide the freedom to ask flow-
up questions to explore the answer of the respondents
I think flow-up questions are the great advantage but the its time
consuming process.
(Source- www. explorable.com)

I think nowadays Online survey is most popular, because we can gather much more
information during a single span of time. There are web sites who provdes this types
of survey. Survey monkey. google survey are renowned as they are easy to access
and cost efficient.
During my survey of “ Craft influenced Fashion” I found the Indian teenag-
ers are not ready to wear craft influenced fashion. They think It is cost deficient and
it does not support the modernism. As they more like western fashion brand. the
overall response is hyper-linked bellow.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/create/preview/?sm=GPKoTjgyIbYvOmhIPXaS3vKfuKJat7tZtfi-
W_2B_2ByAXj4_3D&tab_clicked=1

Source- Surveymonkey
 CONTEXTUAL DESIGN, CRAFT AND TREND STUDY

With the Starting with a Video named “ Craft journey of India” . Its an 1 hour video where we -came to
know different types of Indian art and Craft in a single window.
Then we go through few questions-
1) What is Design for you?
2) How you can design for India?
3)What is design in India??
4) What is contextual design in India?
During the discussion the above questions, I came to know that India is very strong in Craft sector. As
we are the oldest civilization in the world. Our Techniques are still unknown due to their complicity.
Few Indian crafts are Phoolkari, Pashmina, Patchitra, Silk , etc.
Craft is pastime or professional handmade skilled work. people are highly skilled in a particular craft
are known as craftsmanship. contextual design is the in the context of current time, we need to view or sustain
our prestigious offerings in terms of arts and crafts of India.
 VISUAL PRESENTATION

Before Starting of the class we have go through a game, “Thumb pins vs Rubber band” then we had
to create any shape or first alphabet of your name than we have to change the shape only one pin move-
ment. The game was fun and creative way of teaching deferences between raster image and vector Image
by Prof. Mrs. Kukreti.

We came to know about

PIX+EL= PIXEL
picture + element

In this class we covered Drop down menu and layers.

As Assignment we supposed to create three graphics using masking tool

Theme- Gigi beauty

Image - Pinterest

Making Process
1. Selection of Image
2. Useing brush tool created texture
3. Same process is repeted over 15 layers
4. Clip mask on every layer
5. Applied filter--- Distort
6. Same is repeated by draging the fx.
7. Work done in seperated groups.

Self illustrated
 Theme- Lost world

1. Individual Images are

selected
2. Placed according to
plan
3. Masking done with
controlling different
opacity.

Self illustrated

PROCESS OF GRAPHIC MAKING -

THEME- The missing puzzele of my life

For my 3 rd graphics using masking tool, I have learned color balance in this time period. I applied all the technique that I have learned in the class. For
me It was great experience after seeing the final outcome of the project.
 Final- Incompletion of life
the missing puzzle

Reflection :
After the first week of learning, I explored various aspect of design through visuals. Knowledge of different Crafts from India makes me proud as Indian.
Apart from that I have better grip on the Photoshop tools to illustrate my ideas on the screen. Overall It was great experience in my first weak of semester 4.
 Fashion and Art
Week- 2
Reserch Method

Fashion is a wearable form of art. The process that goes into

creating the clothing that melds to our bodies involves various stag-
es of conceptualization, and ultimately leads to creating the ‘work.’
Both of these are creative processes. However, the difference be-
tween a designer and an artist is based on who you ask, but ulti-
mately, good design is understood, while good art is interepreted.
Elsa Schaparelli who declared in her autobiography that
she regarded dress design not as “ A profession, but an Art”. Many
prominent designers like Legerfeld, Marc Jacobs says - “Instead
viewing fashion and art as their own separate ,if highly comple-
mentary, realms”. though it started from 1983, when Saint Laurent’s
design displayed in Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Relation of Fashion and Art

Both Art & Fashion are connected to the social world, alike in so
many ways -not least when it comes to their sense of self-importance -but it’s
never been clear whether art and fashion really mix.
A look from Viktor & Rolf ’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection

For better understanding of Art, we visited National Gallery of Modern Art, with Prof. Kukreti, She helped us to understand how art been the way of
documentation of social and imaginary concept of any time. It has expressed in artist’s own way. Though in the exhibition we talk to Mr. Prasad Pawar. Who is a
well known artist, Photographer. He make us understand how art is valuable. In his photography he described us The fashion was there in 20000 yrs back in our
society. The Special cut in bodice, use of Silk, typical draping style, elongated eyes creats an unique style which are documented through art. In recent days if we
are thinking fashion, ths same application are coming back in different manner. So, art is very much important to understand fashion cycle, along with different
aspects and aesthetics of the culture visually.
Apart from that we have seen Pandit Din dyal’s photography, which also explain the social context of that time. So I think being a designer both Art and
Fashion both are importent for me because that give the test different issue as well as creative imagination visually.
 In this week we had a visit to NGMA (Nationa gallery of modern art, Delhi) For advanced reserch. Trip Guided by Prof. Mrs. Priti Srivastava and Prof. Mrs
Kukreti. We have Interviewed there, Clicked lots of primary Images. Before that we learn about the seconadary Reserch, I found few books and write up in the
musuiem are the source of secondry reserch. Apart from that I read all the topics from the Internet to have more grip on the topic as secondary source of reserch.
Also I have keep forword my survey assignment for better understanding of reserch method.

Prasad Pawar, Padmasree, Photographer, Artist, Historian , Author Ajanata Cave Photography
Image- Self clicked

Design Thinking
Project- 3
Brief : Take an designer and a artist and create any sequential product inspired from them. To do the activity study both the person well to establish their essence
and come up with 6 artwork. You are also encourage to develop a prototype of the same.
Research :-
I always read news paper and through the social media to be updated. I remember two person Artist Wajid Khan and another person is Designer Suket
Dhir. Both of them are really talented person in 21st century India.
 ART AND FASHION AND ITS RELATION

I think fashion is an art form where artistic ex-

pression goes into clothes, a piece of pottery or a paint-
ing. I think, Fashion can tell you what people wore at
a certain period where people concerned with beau-
ty. but in Art at the moment is no longer particularly
concerned with beauty, so it could be say that fashion
- which is always about a concept of beauty, whether or
not everyone agrees on the concept - is more relevant,
more artistic, than the garbage they put out as concep-
tual. If you look at it that way, fine art may go by the
wayside, and fashion, which has a bit more effort put
into it, will take over.

“When an art-lover buys art, it’s called “collecting.”

When a fashion enthusiast buys clothing, it’s called
“shopping.” Art is supposed to be timeless and import-
ant, while fashion is understood to be emphemeral and
farivolous.” ----- Alice Gregory, Fashion blogger, vou-
gue
Let’s move on to a brand run by two young Amer-
icans, Rodele’s Mulleavy sisters, who decide to turn
their gaze to the past by creating a collection entirely
inspired by the Dutch painter par excellence, Vincent
Van Gogh. In these images you can see the starry Night
faithfully reproduced on a short evening dress.

Rodele collection
Source- alfemminile
 Wajid Khan

Waid khan born on 10th march 1981, an Indian Art-

ist, potralist, Sculptor, Inventor and patent holder.
He is specialized in curving canvas with nails Recog-
nized his outstanding nail art. he was named in the
GBW and Limca book of Record. We will be the one
and only artist who will design an art for the 2022
FIFA worldcup.
Analysis of art
Wajid khan’s art is very much experiential. He always
works with composition with detailing. He always
keeps the asthetics and beauty to indian context. His
Dynamic and stylizing approch always inspiring to
me.

Wajid Khan Nail Art

Source : Indian Express
 SUKET DHIR

Suket Dhir

“Less is more” - as fashion philosphy, Mr.

Suket Dhir is an Delhi based Fashion designer. This
accidential dessigner won woolmark prize in 2015/16
for his ombre collection on hand died yarn (Ikat).
His collection explores the trans-seasonal aspects of
wool and its alchemic transformation into smooth,
silk-like yarn, which renders the fabric light, airy,
fluid yet full and supple. (Source : Indiatimes)

Art Analysis
Sukait Dhir loves to play with geometric shape,
and very much experimental with his work. His
collection always creats fun and happy moodes.
His work always been Indian asthetics, and con-
temporize which very much excepted globally.

Wool mark competition 2015/16 Source : Indian Express

 Art work

Both of the artist has a hard background. There

are natural true story , they have faced lots of difficulties
in their early life. I think the best way to represent their
work is to make connection to nature will be a tribute to
them.
Wajid khan art is indirectly connected to the
pointalism art . where dots are common in art work.
Where as Suket Dhir’s art work looks like line stroke in
garment in his Ikat collectionn.
I combined dots and lines to create these all six
artwork. Both of the Artist work creats fun and calm
mood to the viewers. Also Mr. Dhir works more on the
natural color freferablly Indigo .
I created this art work with ombre effect also color
variation in in the art work creats a calmness in the art-
work.
I have used nk pen with brush stroke to crete this
and finishing is done by useing Photoshop with layer
masking and color adjusment tool.
I Would recommend this art work to an doctor’s
office. where cool colors and natural elements are very
much needed for the patient.
Finally it was a great fun for me and to learn to
work with artist and designer duo. Also I found the appli-
cation of me recent learning of photoshop.

Designer and Artist Duo. artwork created by Suresh

 ANTHROPOLOGY : SOCIOLOGICAL :: DEMOGRAPHICS : PSHYCOGRAPHICS

The way of Seeing Partipation observation

Image - right- quickmeme, right- Rethinkrelink

In this class, It was little confusing for me, as I dont like the topic and It was never be my point of interest though I have document the class on the basis
of my understanding. But, Finally, Assignment was fun kind of stuff, As I was search for my old images are really intresting for me.
Anthropology is the Scientific study of what it means to be human.
Four things that human makes Unique.-
1. Human shape their material environment
2. Human differ in their physical form
3. Human have a unique communication system.
There is different types of Anthropology - Biological anthropology- the study of no human members of the order of mamals, Paleoanthropology- the study of
human evolution based on the fossile record, Forensic Anthropology- knowledge to identify humans at the crime scene, and many more
Relativism -- Different people see different things based on there different life experences
Empirical -
Participant Observation- Gaining insight into another way of life by taking part as fully as they can group social activity as an outsider.
Design Brief : Photo Elicitation Exercise: Looking at vintage picture of your family develop prints/graphic inspired from the same. Do research before you begin
with art works. Process of development of artwork is also to be documented.( 5 pictures and 3 final artwork for each)

It was a family trip, We visited nearby beach named, “Digha”. It was a fun trip for us. when I asked my
mother in context of the imge she told me, It was alwys importent to being herself by culture. she always follow
typpical bengali culture in terms of wearbles, such as Sarees, Bangles and Bindi, does not matter what the place is.
As the bangles and bindi to represent her married life. It was always been fear to visit a beach for her. She always
try to make variation with her hair even it is tied in the back. ( by Mother).
I really like she explained her connection to her bangles to her husband tricks my mind. I reserched on
the various aspects of the Bangles how they were made, what was the original shape of it really inspired me.
I started from a doodleing and I reached to a stage where my artwork can be used as print or in the form
of embroidary in the border of sarees or as in central graphic.

Maa on a trip to Digha

Source- Family album

Sea sells different types of Sea sells

Image source- left- Flicker, Right- Wordpress
 Brain stroming

Initial doodles

I have reserched on the topic. Then I had a short Brainstrom on the topic. Then I started doodeling
from the source Images. That ai have collect as my inspiration. I scan the motifs, and created same
motif useing illustrator and I created the composition useing My Deasign Principle.

Final Print
Created by self
 Sea Shells Doodle
From my visual Dairy

Here I have used the line draw-

ing as my base of art work. Then I
created a pattern useing my Design
knowledge. Colors are inspired by the
sea, creats a calmness in the artwork.
I have created this artwork use-
ing photoshop.

Final Print Created by suresh

 sourced from visual dairy
In this Art work I tries to show
the the motion of motif. Use-
ing Photoshop I overlapped
the motif , creats a visual over
all. Again the color are inspired
by the sea.

Bangle queen Self Illustrated

 This Image From my father’s office. When I asked about the Image, He told “ Work pressure is too high and he
was stressed out sitting with gentle smile in his face. He Also informed me how industry works. How his boss
creates pressure on his employes. Though his boss has very less Idea about the work process or about the final
product.
But somehow he manage control everything. The total processing of garments manufactureing is con-
troled by my father. Everything process is goes through his mind. Finally all the Ideas came out from his brain
are implemented by his voice and pen and paper work.
I think In the overall process in context of anthropology of how pen is working is importent to me.
I tries to create artwork how ink flow through pen with great ideas.

Papa in office

In this Context, I tries to show how

A boss of a office controls his em-
ployees through his hand. But the
key of the all work remains under his
emploees.

Image - Shutterstock
 Image from my visual dairy
I have created this image by photoshop. Useing layer mask.
and color balance technique.

Right- Shutterstock, Left- Self illustrated

 Image from visual Dairy

In context of anthropology, I tried

to show how Ideas are flow thorough the
pen. In the Head its full of Ideas. But it
depends on the times, which Idea to flow
through what short of vain.
In the art work I have used Photo-
shop to create this artwork. Which shows
, Multiple Ideas can create something Big.
So colled “Team Work”.

Self Illustrated
Team Work
 FOOD AND ITS DEFINNING CULTURE

Sweet
Image- Bengalsweets

In each part of India we can see different types of dishes.

Which shows our luxury of biodiversity. The no of dishes
in India has is 46% of the world.
It has great impact on Indian culture and envi-
romment. Being A Bengali I always love Sweet as my
special Item.
Here I cjhoose Dimond shape of sweet, which is
made out of sugar and coconut.
I created this motif by high contrast of the same
visual. Then I created pattern and filled over a new page.
This is Online assignment on blackboard. Link is
as follows.
https://learn.pearlacademy.com/webapps/black-
board/content/listContent.jsp?course_id=_15930_1&-
content_id=_569149_1&mode=reset

Created pattern
Self created Pattern
 CONTEXTUAL DESIGN

To understand the contextual of the craft we have go through a video Guided by Prof. Mr. Mitra. Tells us how Indian Famous designer Like Rahul mishra, Sabysachi
Mukherjee, Ritu kumar contemporizing the craft.

These all Designer works with handicraft sector in India. They

contemporize the craft through luxuary marketing. They also
creates modern version in terms of motifs with trendy color
from global forecast.
Rahul Mishra is well known for his stunningly deco-
rated, embroidered designs. He is continuously working with
Indian craftsmen scattered over small villages in different
states. He is dedicated to empowering the Indian craft com-
munity through his sustainable designs. Collections designed
by Rahul Mishra are in tune with international design and
style without losing their ethnic aesthetics. The designer is
very selective while choosing his materials. He has used han-
dloom and other hand woven textiles to express his creativity
and has created a new type of fiber from Merino wool which
is thin and lightweight; one can wear this fabric in spring and
summer without feeling uncomfortable. His designs are in-
spired by the past heritage, but contemporary enough for to-
day’s fashion. The designer says that his design philosophy is
that he is reluctant to follow popular trends in fashion, but
would rather create something that his heart desires. He also
refuses to limit himself by w the stereotypical way of Indian
fashion and boldly experiments with style, texture, fabric, col-
or and craft to create avant-garde line of clothing.

ICW 2017/18 BY RAHUL MISHRA Source- Pinkvilla

For our craft cluster, we have reserched and suggested by Prof. Mitra a lots of NGO,s, self helf group who are egar to help us in our craft study and to
understand diffeent aspect of a craft. In terms of Demographics, work process, their lifestyle and many more.
 Craft and Trend Study

In this class we go through WGSN web site with Prof. Priyadarshi. We have to access WGSN. Then we have to study Vision, color forecast, Materials trend fore-
cast. Then we have to make an ppt on any story .

The Vision

TECHNOGLOGY
As we grow in the society, Technology dominates on our life. We become more dependent on it. Looking at that Fashion consumers, Innovations from Com-
panies should have a switch from a physical market to digital market so that customer can
understand the speciality of any particular product before they own it. It also matters with time so that they can utilize their time doing multitasking. Its also true that
human Emotion are not data dependent, So there will be a possibilities being more luxurious.
 Online
Performing Art and their cultural context

Ramleela movie
Dandiya
Raas or Dandiya is the traditional folk dance from Brindavan. India where it is performed depecting scene of Holi and the story of lord krishna and radha. Along
with Garba, it is the featured dance of Navaratri eveningsin western India. Durinhg Navaratra Gujrat and mumbai people use this Dance.
This performing art used in bollywood movie name Ramleela.
 CAD

Source- Flicker
Glass broken textureSource- Flicker Road at night

Using Photoshop I show the motion of the scooter in my graphics , useing

masking tool

Final Graphics

Source- Flicker
Galaxy Face
Final Graphics
 CAD

Statue of Liberty Sanitary Pads

source- wikimedia source- Snapdeal

Final Graphics

Reflection :- In this assignment I have learned, how to use masking tool to make the image more beautiful and realistic.
 WEEK - 3
RESEARCH METHOD
In the third week, we learned Referencing in detail. Prof. Mrs. Priti Srivastava Explained different ways of reference-
ing. what is the importance of referencing? What is plagiarism?? These questions were raised in the class.

Example of Harvard referenceing

Image -Left- Harvard online libery

Right- Guide UWA

Harvard Reference style

 Research on craft study

This week I came to know more about the craft trip. Before going we have to have proper plan with questioner. In class we have discussed probable questions
that can be asked for maximum data in minimum time. Both Direct and indirect questioner are prepared. are follows. In this we worked in a group.

QUESTIONNAIRE: Materials Curtain Silk Wvg Others

GROUP MEMBERS: 1.How he / She comes into the HL activity
RASHI JAIN 2 How many family members? 28 Where you market usually your product?
SHIVANGI 3 How many Children & earning members? 29 What are your usual major products?
SHIVANGKITA 4 Whether the other members are Dependant on 30 Have you established any bulk market linkages?
SURESH respondent 40 Whether you have participated any trade fairs?
- UGFD, LEVEL 1, SEM-4 5 Whether any other source of income 45 How you are addressing the bulk order requirement of
(SECTION B) 6 What is their present income? big orders?
47 Whether you need credit from Banks?
7 What are their assets (like Landholding, Vehicles, etc.)
8 Types of Houses 48 Are you getting regular credit from banks?
9 Whether they are having their own HL facility 49 If yes, what kind of problems you are facing from
PROCESS 10 Whose raw materials they are using for weaving? banks?
11 General Awareness through trg, workshops etc. 50 From where you usually getting credit? & for which? &
12 What types of products producing? What is the amount
13 What he/she able to weave Saree Stoles Dress 66 What kind of common infrastructure you need for your
Business development?
67 Are you able to contribute participatory amount?
14. What types of looms they are using? 68 What kind of infrastructural bottlenecks you are
15 Whether is Jacquard, Dobby or any other attachment facing?
there? 69 How you are planning to overcome it?
16 How many hooks in the HL 53 From where you outsource this service
17 What types of reeds in the HL 54 What are the techniques you can learn though training
18 Whether there is any take up arrangement? inputs?
22 What type of raw materials (Yarn) you use for 2.7.1 From where you get the design inputs?
production? 2.7.2 From where you used to get the punching Cards . is It
23 From where raw materials are purchased? any delay of supply of Designs ?What is the reason ?
24 Any problem in getting availability of raw materials? 2.8.1
25 Any difficulty in pricing What type of raw materials (Yarn) you use for
26 What about the quality of Raw Materials & quantity to production?
obtain raw materials 2.8.2 From where raw materials are purchased?
52 What types of value addition are commonly used in HL 2.8.3 Any problem in getting availability of raw materials?
fabrics 2.8.4 Any difficulty in pricing
2.11.1 From where you get your product dyed?
2.11.2 Any Problems are you facing in your dyed product?
2.12.1 What type of finishing facility are available
2.12.2 Is there any difficulty you finding for finishing
2.7.1 From where you get the design inputs?
2.7.2 How previously you develop design?
2.7.3 Presently how you are preparing the designs?
2.7.4 Before start of Cluster project, where you get the
source of Motivation of designs?
2.7.5 After cluster project, where you get the Motivation?
2.7.6 Before start of the project, what is the level of income
you had?
2.7.7 Before start of Cluster Project, Whether you had
expose to out side cluster
2.7.8 After implementation of cluster project, how you are
benefited?
2.7.9 Whether you have got any practical training on
designs before cluster project?
2.7.10
Whether you have got any practical training on designs
after start of cluster project?
EMPATHY
56. Are you facing any health problems from HL weaving
activity?
57 If so, what types of you would like to carry out
alternatively?
59 Are you literate?
60 Where your children get basic education facility? How
far away from your home?
61 Have you having any health problems?
62 What are the common health problems in the region?
63 How far away the primary health Center?
64 Have you access of drinking water? & sanitation?
There are many more question those we have prepared in a group before going to craft cluster.

ONLINE ACTIVITY

Cross Referencing :
An instance within a document which refers to related information elsewhere in the same document. In both printed and online dictionaries cross-refer-
ences are important because they form a network structure of relations existing between different parts of data, dictionary-internal as well as dictionary external.
We also learn how to analyze a visual. Juxtaposition and visual collage. All of these experience will be used in the craft cluster.
 DESIGN THINKING
AESTHETIC AND BEAUTY

We started the class with some video named “14 American beauty by decades”, “Korea 100 years of tiffeny episode-4”, “Is India westernising or
not” “Women Ideal body type. All vaudio visuals were extremely fun and informative to me.

Body type Source- elle magazine Body type Source- elle magazine

We have go through different Indian body types (Video by myntra). Though India does not have any specific body size chart because of its large
geography. Apart from that food Culture also reason for that.
Though I learned lot about body type, How impotent to understand a body for a designer or anyone who makes cloth. Body types changes
time to time as they wanted to show different by themselves in era to era.
 Different body type Source- Plus size fashion blogger

Assignment brief : As per assigned groups and era understand and prepare a presentation on Indian aesthetics and beauty ideal at the specified time.

For this particular assignment I have created a presentation Indian Aesthetics suggested time period of “ Post Independence India”

After the independence in 1947, India was in cold war by its countryman. It was the time when country decided in to two parts. It was the time of mass
movement. And India has to build its won aesthetics. The mass migration has a great Impact over the society. Lower class people suffered a lot. They dont had
food to eat, cloth to wear. They leave the country with its culture. This effect turns on the fashion i.e clothing Industry. There was less worker to work, Less Tech-
nician to give ideas in clothing industry. So people used to wear minimum stitched garments. They used to sustain their cloth by stitching again and again and
use them. It was great sad story for the lower class people.
 Getty News Catch News
Mass Migration by
Indian Beauty

Indian Vintage cloth Indian Vintage cloth Anarkali look in a song Source- Fusion India
Source- Fusion India
Source- Fusion India

In the middle and upper class the story of Independence was different. It was the Time when black and white photography become popular, and people used
to document their look and style. On the other hand bollywood movie started glowing from this time period. Two sided braid was popular. And young girls
started using different silhouette inspired by bollywood and social life.
 It was Golden era of Indian sports. Khasba Jadav won the first ever
Olympic medal for India in summer Olympic for India in 1952 in wrestling.
He represents Indian muscularity to the world. On the other hand Indian
hockey team won the final medal in the summer Olympics, Berlin. It was the
0first time Indian sports team represents national costume for India. (India
Times).
This was presented by me in the class. Where I get to know more
about the Indian aesthetics. I learned How an single Image represents a
whole country. It was great understanding of Indian body type which de-
pends of time period, Impotence of team costume. Finally it was great expe-
rience to know little about history. i really like the assignment.

Khasba Jadav, 1952 Indian Hockey Team, Berlin 1952 Source- Indiatimes

UNDERSTANDING OF BODY TYPE

As Extension of this Topic, We learned about the Importance of different body type. We have covered another project on body type.

Assignment Brief :- We have to select any shape then we have to create a garment using any material. The garment developed taking a particular shape.
Class activity needs to be documented with detail explanation and reflection.
This was an Group activity. In this assignment I was lacking of material. So I choose the different colored paper (Black and Brown). I choose The square shape as
my base shape folded once to create triangle. As I was thinking the shape will reflect the body shape properly with body contouring.
We have started from the plotting the paper. Paper were cut in the size of 6*6 inches. Then folded it to triangle. Then the all the piece stitched in single nidle
lock stitch machine.
 Self Photograph
Model - Rupanshi
Body anatomy

Here we tries to show the Body anatomy, through the garment. As human body is wider in shoulder and narrow in the Baily level. Due to the bust it
has buldgeng on the chest. Then again tit has shape on the head. It was quite good implementation of the planning, as we wanted the look. In terms of
pattern we directly tried our swatches in the dress form. and cut according to the requirement. Finally finished with back opening a stitch button. On
the head gear we have used metal wire to bind the paper.
 DESIGN THINKING (ONLINE)
Can India become a Fashion Capital?
I think no
India is still way behind in terms of understanding the true meaning of Fashion as per the international norms.
Technically skilled artisans and craftsmen are still not educated or trained enough to match up to the standards of international expectations.
Society itself is still not prepared to understand international fashion in its true essence and by and large is a snobbish gratification for a miniscule section of the
society who is completely unaware of the seriousness in fashion as west perceives it.
The way fashion is understood or rather misunderstood in the Indian context is way off the mark set as per the international standards and facts of fashion.
Lack of clear cut policies and non-priority at a governmental level on the creation of serious fashion, understanding and awareness along with no promotion
has set India back in a major way.
A disorganized sector with absolutely no co-ordination between the stakeholders including artisans, material manufacturers, traders, manufacturers, textile
sector etc. Has led India to become a production center than a creative center.
India still continues to rely on its age old idea of fashion and dwell on it again and again as a general mind set rather than emerge as an innovator and establishing
new norms to reflect the contemporary society it has developed into.

CONTEXTUAL DESIGN

In this week we came to know about different NGOs, concern, artist, self help group. Who helps to con-temporize the craft. Such as kalaraksha, art vival, Good
times etc.

Image - Kalaraksha
Contemporaization of craft online Image - Good earth
 ORIENTATION OF DIFFERENT CRAFT AND THEIR CLASSIFICATION
Weaving
Weaving can be defined as the production of a plain surface created by horizontal and vertical passing movements of weft and warp loops. Warp loops standing
side by side are divided into two with the help of a tool called a “nire,” and weft loops are passed through this empty space (called the mouthpiece) with the help of
a shuttle, and plain surfaces are thus produced. Weaving can be classified into three categories depending on tools and techniques used:
1- Shuttle Weaving: Fabric weaving, Shirt blanket, kola and capon weaving.

2- Weaving with Kirk: Traditional Arts Using Wood Embroidery

A- Plain Weavings with Kirk: carpets, Cecil, zillion (sill), sumac Kasuti
B- Kirk Weaving with Pile: rug Cane Sticks:
Phulkari
Production of Musical Instruments: Gotapatti
3- Weaving without a Shuttle: Palaz, Kolan, carpana Making Packsaddles: Kantha
Examples of Fabric Weaving Spoon-making: Chamba Rumal
Plain weaving with kirkit: Traditional Arts Using Stone
Carpet Weaving: Marble-working:
Cicim Weaving: Decorative Stone-working:
Zili (sili) weaving:
Pembarthi Metal Craft
Dhokra

IDENTIFICATION OF CRAFT AND THEIR LOCATION

JAMDANI WEAVING- WEST BENGAL

Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal, produced in South Rupshi, Narayanganj, Dhaka District, Bangladesh for centuries. Whether figured or
flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile
of the Bangladeshi weaver. They are traditionally woven around Dhaka, Bangladesh, and on the brocade loom.
 INTRODUCTION
Jamdani are among the finest muslin textiles of Bengal produced in larger amount Dhaka District, Bangladesh. Though it started in long time before the
partition of India it has great impact in west Bengal also. Shantipur is a small town in West Bengal, the people of this area are specialized, in this traditional craft.
Fine jamdani is often called Dhakaiya Jamdani.
The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. It adorned royalty and nobility across Asia and the Mus-
lim world for centuries. Under British colonialism, the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industri-
ally manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh, with jamdani saris becoming one of the most
prestigious luxury fabrics of South Asia.
The traditional art of weaving jamdani has been declared by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the Intangible Cultural
Heritage of Humanity.

Nadia is basically the name of one of the

districts in West Bengal. As such there is no place
called

EVOLUTION OF THE CLUSTER

The weaving activity was initiated in 1409,

during the regime of Gaur Ganesh Danu Mardhan-
dev. Saree
Weaving was practiced during 1683 - 1694
during the ruling of Nadia king Rudra Roy. The pro-
duction got
Systematized and was well organized leading
to good recognition during the period of Mughal
empire.
Saree was exported to Afghanistan, Iran,
Arab Greece & Turkey. The healthy trend continued
till the early
twentieth century.

Image source- Times of India

Jamdani sarees
 Image source- Jmadani blog

Aspects of Jamdani weaving

The British controlled the industry through their East India Company. Those who opposed were severely punished. Finally the control of East India
Company came to an end with the intervention of Governor General Kolkata, for the Common representation of grief of the united weavers. The product had its
unique specific proposition in the market for its quality of yarn used in weaving. Hand Spun Yarn of 250 - 300 s, which is beyond the scope of mill, was used for
weaving, which could counterfeit even the imported cotton yarn of Manchester.
Shri Darga Das Kastha subsequently introduced barrel Dobby during 1920 - 1925, facilitating the conversion of the throw shuttle to Fly Shuttle. Later Shri
Debbendra Nath Mukherjee introduced the Jacquard Machine, and this facilitated a broader cross section of new designs in the Market. It is learn that 100 hook
capacity Jacquard was first installed by Shri Jatindra Nath Lohori for producing varieties during the third decade of twenty century. During the same time sec-
tional warping and sizing was introduced by Shri Hazari to produce a warp of 350 yards in length. The Santipur sarees in the past were very popular for the fine
& uniform texture. The sarees are termed as per the design used in the extra warp meant for side border. The ground base is Cotton but the extra warp or border
different textiles yarns Muga, Twisted Cotton, Zari, Gold & silver are used.
The Bengal Small Scale Aids Industry Act during the early eighties (1980 - 83), was instrumental support of the government for the growth of the Han
loom industry. As per the act financial aid to a maximum of Rs 10,000/- in shape of 50% grant & 50 % Loan was provided to the individual weavers for purchase
of looms and Margin money.
During the mid eighties and later in the mid nineties 1995, there were weaver movements for the wage hikes but were
unsuccessful for the suppression by Mahajans.
GOVERNMENT INITIATED CLUSTER REPORT
Core Cluster Actors
The Core actors of the cluster are the weavers, master weavers. The evolution of the weavers into the Master Weavers tells about the organic relation that these
core cluster actors enjoy amongst themselves. This further shows how the growth of the cluster has provided opportunities to a weaver to develop into a master weaver.
Master Weavers
Previously this category of weavers were engaged in weaving only, but today they undertake the overall responsibility of supplying the raw material to the weav-
ers, provide the design and pay wages to the grass root level weavers; and then supply the sarees to Mahajans. Mahajans provide design and color information and a bet-
ter price realization for the saree, but on the other hand make the transactions on credit. There are around 700 master weavers actively involved in production activities
of the cluster. It is estimated that in total, these master weavers have 16,050 working looms, and equal number of weavers working as labors. A part of the production of
master weavers is also sold in the local haat of Santipur. The modal unit size of the master weavers is 4 looms. There are few master weavers having 10,
20, 30, 40, 50, 60 looms under one shed. The master weavers apart from the weaving earning of one loom earn profit margins from the products weaved on the loom
engaged by the labor

Weavers
There are about 20,000 working looms and 60,000 persons involved directly / indirectly in the weaving and preparatory activities. The women basically un-
dertake the preparatory works like separation of hanks, sizing, pirn winding. There are around 111 different weaving communities namely the "Pramanik" , "Kastha"
, "Dalal" , "Khan" etc. etc. Majority of the weavers belong to Tantuvay community. All the weavers have good weaving skills for weaving saree on Jacquard looms. The

Source- Kolkata Times Source- Kolkata Times

Process of Jamdani weaving Different aspects of jamdani weave
 Dyers
Dyeing is basically carried out in the dyeing unit. There are about 90 units doing dyeing as a commercial activity. These units, based on the quantity of yarn
dyed are categorized into large, medium and small units. 60% of the total yarn sales are in the colored yarn form, and the remaining 40% is in the Grey form. The
yarn traders employ the large and medium scale for dyeing where as the small-scale unit does the job work for the master weavers.
Designers
There are about 100 small designers in the cluster, who do designing work on their own creativity and imagination. They neither have a formal education
nor a mechanism to update their knowledge skills. For Lack exposure their skill are traditional based. Their main role in the cluster is to do costing for the master
weaver, and supply them the punch cards for the Jacquard.
Raw Material Suppliers
The main raw material required for the cluster is cotton yarns 100S, 80S, 2/120S ,2/80S, zari, art silk yarns. Cotton yarns are obtained from the traders/sup-
plier of Barabazar - Kolkata. Barabazar traders/suppliers procure these yarns from the small scale spinners of Andhra Pradesh and Tamilnadu. There are 100 yarn
traders at Santipur (urban) supplying the above stated types of yarn, dye staff and chemicals. The Dye used for dyeing is mostly direct dyes, Vat dyes, Sulphur dyes,
Napthol dyes. Use of Direct dyes is 50%, VAT is 25%, Napthol is 15%, & Sulphur is 10%.
Equipment Suppliers
here are round 100 loom manufacturers and suppliers, and the average rate of sale of new looms is 8 looms per year. Mostly fly shuttle
looms of width 52 - 56 inches are being used in the cluster with 100 to 150 hooks Jacquard. 99% of the looms have Jacquard attachment. Few looms of the SHG's
were noted to be without Jacquard. These suppliers source the Jacquard m/c from Kolkata at an average price range of Rs. 6000/- per m/c (100 hooks), Rs. 8000/- per
m/c (150 hooks). The average cost of Jacquard m/c works out to Rs. 4800/- without accessories.

Bleaching & Dyeing

Prior dyeing, the cotton yarns are bleached with Bleaching Powder for light and medium shades. However, Bleaching is not used for very dark shades. The
cluster uses different types of dyes namely Direct, VAT, Sulphur and Naphthol dyes, depending on nature of the colour and dyeing cost paid by master weavers
and Mahajans. The yarns are bleached and dyed in the form of hank and latter dried in sun light putting on bamboo bars. The process sequences of cotton yarns
bleaching and dyeing are given below:
Sizing
Sizing is a process where starch (sago or Boiled Rice or Khoi) is coated on the warp yarns for imparting strength; enhance abrasion resistance to withstand
the stress and strains exerted during weaving process. There by it reduces the yarn breakage and improves quality and efficiency of weaving.
The loom sizing is also carried out after weaving to reduce reed marks, to impart stiffness to the fabric to bring into proper
look.
Warping and Beaming
The warping is a process of making desired length and width of warp sheet by combining many small packages called bobbins/spools. The process of
warping used in Santipur is known as sectional warping. Sectional warping process is carried on a wooden drum from a wooden peg creel. The Sectional warping
process facilitates warp patterning and handling delicates fine spun and filament yarn.
The process of transferring warp sheet to a weavers beam to mount on loom is called beaming. All these processes are carried out by manually without
using power. In Santipur the warping length generally varies from 40 to 70 sarees.
Pirn Winding
After dyeing and sizing of weft yarns, the weft package called pirn is prepared on Charkha. Pirn winding is the process of transferring the yarns from the
hanks into bobbin/pirn of the shuttles used in the weft while weaving. The rotation of the Charkha is carried out by hands. A pirn consist of 400 to 500 metres of
yarn of 100s counts.
PREPARATION OF LOOM
Preparation of the loom for weaving is done by the skilled weavers and the process involves the following activities

Drafting and Denting

The process of drawing in/ passing the warp yarn through the heals of the loom as per the draft of the design to be woven is known as drafting. This helps
in the future process of weaving for easy locating of broken ends and also helps in the designing processes.
Generally sarees are always woven in plain and drawn in straight pattern. The extra warp in body and boarder are drawn through
harness cord of jacquard for designing.
Denting is a process of passing the yarn through the reed. The process helps in maintaining the width of fabric during weaving, beating up of weft yarn into
fell of the cloth and the reed guides the shuttle during weaving. In Santipur 2 ends are drawn through one dent during denting and latter 2 ends remains un-disperse
even after weaving and sells in market as it. And this gives an identification of Santipur sarees in the markets.

Setting up of Jacquard
Prior to start of the weaving process, the weaver sets the design of the saree border for border design and the body buttas with the help of extra warp. The
respective ends of the design are tied to an attachment called jacquard. This process takes around 3 to 4 hours or more depending on the nature of the design and
capacity of jacquard. This Jacquard designs gives lots of value addition to the fabric during weaving. And very often weft butta are produced during weaving by
inserting weft threads by hand. This processes is time consuming and tedious.
Weaving
The weaving is performed by the skilled weavers of the family. The looms being used are mainly traditional fly shuttle pit looms
with jacquards.
Designing
Designing through jacquard is the most value addition option for the cluster. New Designs are collected from various sources by the Mahajans and converts
into new jacquard designs with the help of local designers. Some times local designers also introduce some new designers out of their creativity. Designing in the
clusters are done through Tie and die borders, extra warps and extra weft and boarders designs with jacquards. The motives of the designs are floral, leaves and
trees, geometric motifs, abstract and temples and sometimes animal / kalka motifs. However floral and geometric motives are most popular.

Source- Jansasta, Kolkata

 HISTORY

Source- National Libery kolkata

Jamdani antique picture

The origin of the word jamdani is uncertain. Jamdani is a Persian term. In Persian, ‘Jama’ means cloth and ‘dana’, means buti or diapering. Jamdani therefore
could mean diapered cloth. It is believed that Muslims introduced the jamdani style of weaving in Bengal. The claim seems probable in the sense that the Muslims
held the monopoly of jamdani in Bengal for centuries both in its weaving and marketing. But Jamdani as a fabric is considered to be much older than Muslim rule
in Bengal. The Arthasastra (about 300 AD) mentions Vanga to be the home of a very delicate textile staff.
Jamdani is also found in the book of Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and
Italian travelers and traders. Four kinds of fine cloths were produced in Vanga and Pundra in those days, viz
khouma, dukul, pattrorna and karpasi.
From various historical accounts, folklore and slokas, it may be assumed that very fine fabrics were available in Bengal as far back as the first century A.D.
Fine ‘dukul’ textile has been mentioned in many ancient accounts and it is possible dukul was renamed as jamdani during Muslim period. However, Jamdani designs
developed along with other groups of the fabric. The fine fabric that used to be made at Mosul in Iraq was called mosuli or
mosulin.
In Sril Silat-ut-Tawarik, a 9th century book, the Arab geographer Solaiman mentions the fine fabric produced in a state called Rumy, which, according to many,
may be located in the present territory of Bangladesh. IBN BATUTA profusely praised the quality of cotton textiles of SONARGAON. In late 16th century English
traveller RALPH FITCH and historian Abul Fazl also praised the muslin made at Sonargaon.
The art of making jamdani designs on fine fabric reached its zenith during Mughal rule. There were handlooms in almost all villages of DHAKA district.
Dhaka, Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Titabari, Jangalbari and Bajitpur were famous place for making superior quality jamdani and muslin.

Jamdani during 15 th century India
Jamdani during 15 th century India
Traders from Europe, Iran, Armenia,
and later USA came to Bengal to buy Bengal
muslins. The Mughal Emperor, the Nawab of
Bengal and other aristocrats used to engage
agents at Dhaka to procure muslin and jam-
dani fabrics for royal families. The golden age
of muslin began during the Mughal rule. Since
then the demand for jamdani and muslin fab-
rics at home and abroad grew and this led to
further improvement in its artisanship. Ac-
cording to the 18th
century documents of the EAST INDIA COM-
PANY, a high official of the company was post-
ed to buy two muslin varieties of mulmul khas
and sarkar-i-ali. He had the designation of
Daroga-i-mulmul. Every foreign factory had
an office, which maintained records of the best
jamdani variety. Bengal jamdani decorated the
homes and wardrobes of Europe and America
Source- National Laibery kolkata
in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
First trade center of Jamdani
Source- National Laibery kolkata
 Global Presence
Due to the detail oriented process, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries. In Iraq, thev fabric that used to be made at Mosul was
called mosuli or mosulin. Dhaka, Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Titabari, Jangalbari and Bajitpur were famous for making superior quality Jamdani and muslin. In the book Sril
Silat-ut-Tawarikh, written in the 9th century, the Arab geographer Solaiman mentions the fabric produced in a state called Rumy, the area now known as Bangladesh.
The golden age of Dhaka muslin began with Mughal rule, in the 17th century. Traders from Europe, Iran, Armenia, and Mughal-Pathans used to buy and sell Jamdani
fabric. Emporers and aristocrats used to buy high quality muslin and Jamdani for their masters' use. However, during the middle of the 18th century the decline in
the Jamdani industry began. Use of machinery in the English textile industry, and the subsequent import of lower quality, but cheaper yarn from Europe, started the
decline. The decline of Mughal power in India, deprived Jamdani weavers of their most influential patrons. Weavers were paid at market value of the Jamdani they pro-
duced, and it was the duty of the Daroga to monitor quality standards during production. In 1765, the agents at the weaving companies began to pressure the weavers
into selling their cloth at low prices. To stop this oppression the East India Company started buying the textiles directly from the weavers. According to James Wise,
Dhaka muslin worth Re 5 million was exported to England in 1787. James Taylor put the figure at Re 3 million. In 1807, the export came down to Re 850,000
and the export completely stopped in 1817.

Source- Jamdani samity

Variation in Jamdani
 Variety of jamdani work
The most particular characteristic of jamdani work is its geometric design. The expert weavers do not need to draw the design on paper. They do it from their
instinct. Jamdanis have different names according to their design. Some names of jamdani are: panna hajar, dubli jal, butidar, tersa, jalar, duria, charkona, mayur
pyanch, kalmilata, puilata, kachupata, katihar, kalka pad, angurlata, sandesh pad, prajapati pad, durba pad shaplaful, baghnali, juibuti, shal pad, chandra pad, chan-
drahar, hansa, jhumka, kauar thyanga pad chalta pad, inchi pad, bilai adakul naksha, kachupata pad, badghat pad, karlapad, gila pad, kalasful, murali jal, kachi pad,
mihin pad, kankra pad, shamukbuti, prajapati buti, belpata pad, jabaful and badur pakhi pad. Present day jamdani saris have on their background designs of rose,
jasmine, lotus, bunch of bananas, bunch of ginger and sago. Efforts are underway to revive traditional jamdani designs. A jamdani with small flowers diapered on the
fabric is known as butidar. If these flowers are arranged in reclined position it is called tersa jamdani. It is not necessary that these designs ought to be of flowers only.
There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers. If such designs cover the entire field of the sari it is called jalar naksha. If the field is covered with rows of
flowers it is known as fulwar jamdani. Duria jamdani has designs of spots all over. Belwari jamdani with colourful golden borders used to be made during the Mughal
period, especially for the women of herem, the inner court.
The production cost of jamdani in Mughal time was very high and its quality control deserves a mention here. The Daroga-i-mulmul posted in the headquar-
ters of Mulmul Khas office in Dhaka used to engage expert artisans for jamdani weaving paying them money in advance. Only the members of the royal family could
afford these as the costing of such jamdani products was beyond the reach of ordinary people. The exclusive fabrics for them were made in some designated top class
weaving factories under the close supervision of the Daroga (inspector). The emerging top businessmen also used to set up jamdani weaving factories like the royal
families to get required Jamdani fabrics for their own use. They also used to engage jamdani artisans for this purpose. The demand of such precious jamdani products
was very high in the international market. Royal families from Europe and Asia used to procure those costly cloths through placing order in advance to the trading
agencies in Bengal. But the jamdani industry started declining from the early 19th century with the emergence of the mechanized textile industry and its cheaper
products. The textile eventually mills captured the world cloth market.

Changes with time

We do not know exactly when jamdani came to be adorned with floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in the Mughal period, most likely
during the reign of either Emperor Akbar (1556-1605) or Emperor Jahangir (1605-1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani. Forbes
Watson in his most valuable work titled Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India holds that the figured muslins, because of their
complicated designs, were always considered the most expensive productions of the Bengal looms. The designs and colors also changed with time. Originally, the
motifs used to be made on gray fabric. Later on fabrics of other colors were also used. In the 1960s, jamdani work on red fabric became very popular. The Victoria
and Albert Museum of London has a fine collection of jamdani with work in white on white fabric. The production methods have also changed. Previously, pop-
corn, rice or barley was used for starch. Before making jamdani, the designers used to dye their yarn and starch it. For dye they used flowers and leaves of creepers.
For quality jamdani they used yarn of 200 to 250 counts. These days weavers buy fine yarn from the market and use chemical dyes instead of herbal dyes. Finally,
time has also
influenced the designs. Keeping up the modern demand, present day jamdani saris have on their ground designs of rose, jasmine, lotus, bunches of bananas, bunch-
es of ginger and sago. Recently, there is a trend of embroidering Jamdanis or putting ‘’paars’’ on saris. However, many traditionalists are vehemently against this
trend, claiming this is destroying a tradition.
 Decline and fall
From the middle of the 19th century, there was a gradual decline in the jamdani industry. A number of factors contributed to this decline. The subsequent im-
port of lower quality, but cheaper yarn from Europe, started the decline. Most importantly, the decline of Mughal power in India, deprived the producers of jamdani of
their most influential patrons.
The most gruesome part of this industry is that the loom owners are now using child labor to curtail the cost. It is posing a threat to the age-old traditional in-
dustry as these children do not belong to original Jamdani artisan family. They come from many surrounding districts.
On the other hand the weavers do not know the marketing channel, consumer likings and disliking, and contemporary demand of bazaar. So the designs are
not developed. Industry insiders are considering the necessity of introducing marketing knowledge, consumer demand and other modern technology on this industry
so that the industry gets its massive flow.
The master craftsmen can create design by dint of innovative ideas and creative faculties. A large number of weavers are still uneducated and far from formal
educational opportunities. Even they have no vocational training and practical knowledge on modern textile industry.
Nevertheless, the creative ideas of this weaver community are so elegant and excellent that many artistic and gorgeous designs are appearing and crafting an
aesthetic art. There are no written documents for the innumerable motif used in Jamdani. However, the major problem is that the weavers do not get adequate wages for
their labour. Although master and senior weavers get high wages, the conditions of junior weavers and labours know no bound. In this circumstance, young generation
is not enthusiastic to start their professional life through this ancient art.
Otherwise, the weavers do not obtain enough support from the government and NGOs. The weavers are not capable of taking Short and Medium Entrepreneurs
SME loans as this industry is not regarded as SMEs category. Experts consider this industry can be regarded as SME since the constructions, production, labour cost
and other features are similar to SME definition. Conversely, some organisations and enthusiastic entrepreneurs have been taking reviving initiatives for protecting this
industry. In a bid to avoid the middleman they established direct contact with weavers. A jamdani production center has been established near Dhaka.
A number of women entrepreneurs are the masterminds for reviving this artistic industry. They have set up exclusive outlets in various parts of the city including
the posh areas. They have been promoting Jamdani by showcasing the magnificence of the weave through their business enterprises and stores. Side by side with doing
business, they have been providing significant support to the hundreds of Jamdani weavers by working with and marketing their products throughout Bangladesh and
beyond.

Reflection
It is now important to develop the designs and improve the quality of the fabrics. In doing so, it is important to provide high quality input at a reasonable price,
withdraw VAT on the imported raw materials, ensure fast and dynamic property of dying, arrange and provide pre-weaving and post-weaving services on yearn and
cloth, and impart vocational training to the weavers for their skill development. It is also pertinent to participate in various textile fairs and trade fairs at home and
abroad, develop institutional marketing system, preservation of jamdani fabrics, and product promotion. All these facilities would transform the jamdani industry
into a profitable industry, and it will then be capable of competing with readymade garments RMG and textile industry. Similarly, the infrastructural development
of Jamdani Pollis (Jamdani villages) is necessary. The industry has been concentrated on the banks of the river Ganga. It is essential to protect environmental factors
also.

Contextual design
It was an Online activity. Where I Participate quiz. It was a great experience to know more about different craft.
 CAD
CARICATURE

Me as comedian Me in pixel mood

Ancient Me

Reflection :- To complete this Task I have use different filter tool along with other color correction tool. It was an fun exercise to understand the distor-
tion of any image.
 CAD
PATTERN

Created motif Created motif Created motif

Pattern
Pattern Pattern

Application Application Application

Reflection- I have created all the Graphics using Photoshop. I learned about the placement of certain graphics. I also learned use of pen tool.
 CAD

Final Graphic
 WEEK 4
Design Thinking

In this class we have go through a ppt along with some interesting visuals. What I understand is- The gestalt means a unified whole. It was the theory for visual
perception. The main idea was that when we perceive the world there are many different signals coming at the same time to organize them, and avoid going crazy,
we visualize our surroundings as unitary forms or groups.
Design Brief :- Develop Primary print/graphic for tee shirt for each gestalt law. 6 gestalt law x 3 final graphics. Process of graphic development (either manual or
computerised) to be documented.

Anoamly- When Similarity occurs, an object can be emphasized if it is dissimilar to others.

Using this as my primary il-

lustration I make this Graph-
ics which has break in certain
tessellation creates a visual
of a human in a grouped.

Brick man - Anomly human line drawing

Brick texture

The series of the flute breaking down by displacement of

few flute, creates distortion as a whole, defines anomaly.
This is created in Photoshop using pointillism filter ef-
fect.

Self clicked, Kolkata

Flute- Anomly
 The series square by its placement, Creates Anomaly
in group. This is created in illustrator by simple square
placing according to primary Image.

Square tiles- Anomly Self clicked, Phuliya

Closure- When Gaps created between the shapes, People mentally close the gaps and perceive a visuals are called closure.

Boat - closure

In this graphics any one can perceive the boat, In spite of having the gap between the boat sketch. I have created this using illustrator.
 We everyday uses Google, Our mind already perceive an visual. In this graphic Instead of “O” I
put two smiling face and “Canada” Instead of “India” to create the graphics. I have used Photo-
shop masking tool to create the graphics.

Seu Austin Source- TED

In this Image I created the graphics that women falling inside the drain. creates the complete visual in the mind though its not complete. creates closure by
the grouping of hand and leg . Image is sourced from the movie “ Sue Austin” that I recently seen . I have used illustrator to create this graphics.
Figure an d ground- Different shapes formed in figure and ground

In the fore ground the crocodile can easily per-

ceived and in the background the sun and a road
can be visualize in contrast color. This is the Im-
age from my last visit to zoo. I have created this
graphics using illustrator.

Crocodile - figure and Ground Self clicked, Alipoor zoo

In the foreground I can perceive Tele-

phone and in the back ground Heart
shape easily perceived. The Image from
my Fathers phone. I have used illustrator
to create this artwork.

Telephone - figure and Ground Image from my Father”s Phone

 Any one can easily percive the lips in fore
ground and the city landscape view in the
background. This image from my friend,s
phone. I have used illustrator to create this
artwork.

lip- city - Figure and ground

Image from my friend’s gallery

Similarity : Similar object often percived as a group

The cycle motif repeated in such a way

creates the distorted hexagon creates a
visual perception.

Self clicked , kolkata

 Image source- shutterstock
Image source- - Flicker
cat
Similarity carry bag

The recyle logo of recycle is repeated in such a way, Its looks like carry bag with cat as a whole. Images are secondary images. Created by using Photoshop.

The shoes are placed in such a manner Its create a

circle as a whole visually. Art work done in Photo-
shop with filter application.

Similarity self clicked, Noida

 Similar objects creates a movement in viewers eye as the motif
of cat thrown away. Image is created by illustrator.

Continuty Dandelion wall paper

The flow of milk, shows continuity, as it is by placed in such a

way. Artwork created by filter effect in Photoshop.

Continuty
Clicked by friend
The flow of pencil wood towards the center, creates eye move-
ment. The graphics is created by using Photoshop filter effect.

Continuty Self clicked, Noida

Proximity : Objects are placed together are often percived as a group

Triangles are arrenged in such a way it is perceived proximately to a human body

The lines are arranged in such a way it creates garment aesthetically. Represents
proximity.

Clicked by friend, Noida

Geometric shapes are placed in such a way creates a sofa visually. Shows proximity. .

Reflection :- Study of gestalt me a lot . to create my own design and creates

visual Impact.

Source- winchester leather

 SEMIOTICS
Study of sign, symbol and Index
Assignment brief : 5 examples to be done usingprimary images explaining icon, symbol and index

symbol index
Image

Delhi heritage

Rajpath

God of
Cricket

sea safari
 WEEK - 5
Design Thinking

PROJECT REPORT
PANTALOONS
(The Great India Place, NOIDA)

CURRENT MARKET SCENARIO

FEATURES:
• One Stop Shop for Customers.
• More than 200 In-house & Out-house brands.
• Quality Apparel.
• Value for Money.
• Innovative tactics to approach Customers.
MARKET SIZE:
• Market leader in the Retail Industry.
• Captures 43% of the Retail Industry.
• Organized retail sector growing at rate of 5%.
• Growing Middle Class Group.
SITUATIONAL ANALYSIS
Before we talk about anything let us see what Google
has to say about Pantaloons
regarding its popularity as compared to Reliance trends.
As we can see that Google has shown that pantaloons is
more popular than its
competitor Reliance trends. Demand is more for panta- Self clicked, GIP, noida
Pantaloon store
loons products in India.
CORE COMPETENCIES
Pantaloons seeks to use its core competencies to achieve a sustainable competitive advantage, in which competitors cannot provide the same value to consumers
that Pantaloons does. Already, Pantaloons has developed core competencies in
Offering a high-quality, branded product whose image is recognizable amongconsumers;
Providing quality brands at very low cost.
Developing a reputation among retailers as a reliable retail outlet deliveringthe requested number of products on schedule. The firm intends to build
on
these competencies through marketing efforts that increase the number of products offered as well as distribution outlets. By forming strong relationships with
consumers, suppliers and other goods and
services, Pantaloons believes it can create a sustainable competitive advantage over its rivals. No other retail company can say to its customers with as much convic-
tion “LIVE BETTER SPEND LESS”!

SWOT ANALYSIS

STRENGTHS OPPORTUNITIES
• Well-established brand. • Merge with Global Brands.
• Highly qualified staff(6000+employees) • Growth in middle class group.
• Economic Pricing. • Increase in disposable Income.
• Quality apparel. THREATS
WEAKNESS • Being pioneer, extensive competition.
• Wide span of control. • New entrants.
• More complexity. • International exposure of competitors.
• Applications of IT.
• Employee retention.
Pantaloon is much more concerned on sustainability. This brands talks about how the chemical pollute our invironment. They talk about the water
crisis that going to happen for fast fashion. They have taken few Initive for the sustainability. They promote sustainability in their website.
In this context I make a presentation on the Brand Patagonia. This brand deals with the exchanging product. Their main slogan is “ If you
Don’t need Don’t buy It.
Assignment Brief : Research on given method of sustainability along with case study on one of the person/organization/artist living the same.
Sustainable concept of design to be developed. 3 design to be developed using the same practice. Process of same to be documented.

I have designed, Few clothes. Which will be luxury as they are totally hand made. These garments are weaved in parts with hand and fringes are
added. These garments can easily repaired without changing the impact of the overall garment. If any of the part damaged it can be change dboth by
hand or through the industry with minimum costing. Designs are followed.
These are my final sketches. and I have also made the swatches for the garment. Which are made the canning weaving technique, generally found in chair
weave. Its always easy to repair a chair. So the my concept is - My garments will be as easy to repair as the weave of the chair is.

Reflection:- I really enjoyed the assignment. It was knowledgeable to know about

the brands already taken the initiative to sustain to save our next generation. Now
it is challenge for us how we take forward this initiative to the mass market.

Chair
Source- Chaircare
 week - 6

Gender and Identity ,Decoding masculine and feminine, how gender lines blur when cultural contexts are changed

The trend today derives much of its impetus from fashion’s fixation with the late ’60s and early ’70s, as younger consumers, and those in their thrall, resurrect
a moment when unisex was largely the province of rock royalty, the sequins-and-kimono-wearing likes of Jimi Hendrix and David Bowie. Few times before We are
not prepared for that.
But now, Responding to a shift in mood, progressive merchants like Acne, Vince and Rag & Bone display men’s and women’s clothes in proximity, some
occasionally mixing them on the racks. This year, Selfridges in London dedicated a significant swath of its selling space to A gender, a store-within-the-store where
gender-fluid labels like Nicopanda, Ann Demeulemeester and Yang Li commingle. (Report presented by - vogue Global)
Many women freely embrace the notion of gender fluidity, buying men’s wear in small sizes at stores like Odin, Cadet and Dover Street Market. At Gucci,
the sales staff reports that more women than men are buying the pussy-bow blouses from Mr. Michele’s fall men’s collection, just now arriving at the stores.

So for me as fashion design student, it is

necessery to understand the gender in different
parts of the word. Also I am egar to know how the
brands, artist represents the gender to hold the
market.
To understand The topic, we have go
through a ppt in the class. The basic understand-
ing was, how color and shape, and overall present
the gender. Whether it is feminine or masculine.
In the presentation Prof. Kukreti shows us
the examples of perfume of different brands, how
it is changing in terms of shape and color.

Dior fragnance Source- Dior

Assignment Brief :- 5 gender neutral images to be collected ( primary) from the college campus. The same need to be converted to masculine and feminine. Rational
behind why the same is neutral, masculine or feminine needs to be shared.

Self illustrated making process

Self clicked, Pearl academy

Women in polka dot Spider man

Self illustrated
Source- slidespile Source - alphaphotos

The image of mouse is neutral in gender. As we are habituated with polka dot with red color as girly things. I applied same texture on the mouse. So my
texture presenting the feminine character in the mouse.
On the other hand, I applied the concept of superman. Is the iconic Supernatural power man. I applied the texture of the spider to give it more masculine
look.

 Source- Craftsy Women in pink with round hair
Self clicked, Noida Men in Blue Source- Craftsy

We are habituated to see men in blue and

the women in pink. Also hair style of wom-
en also in trend in past, and the neck tie for
men.
Using the concept I have changed the Pri-
mary image to gender variation useing Pho-
toshop.

Self Edited Self Edited

destbin for women Dustbin for men
 Chota bheem friends
Source- Nick Photoshop used process
Self clicked, Noida

CHUTKI IS WATCHING YOU

BHEEM IS WATCHING YOU

Self edited
Self Edited CC TV for men
CC TV for women
In our generation, We are habituated to see Bheem as powerful men and Chuthki as super intelligent girl the chota bheem series. I used this concept to make my gender
differentiation useing Photoshop.

Reflection :- I really like the assignment. Through this project I understand client’s choice as they are differ from men and women ignoring the test of choice. I
want to know more about this project.
 MUSEUM & INDIAN AESTHETICS
While documenting Indian aesthetics, I have visited International Modern art fair to understand Indian aesthetics from artist’s point of view. I have met few, as they
are explaining their thinking about their understanding of future.

Suni Das one of the post modern Expressionist artist . “To ex-
press my authentic feelings about reality, I have to interpret it, I
have conceptualize it. The previous reality gets transformed in
the laboratory of minds. Then, I bring it out on the canvas.”- told
by his representative.
His works tells about the hidden humanity behind a hu-
man being. He also a real life experiential artist. With the char-
coal he express the mentality of an Indian directly on the canvas.

Jogen chowdhury Paintings

Sunil das Paintings Source- suresh, Okhla

Jogen chowdhury is an eminent Indian Painter and considered as an impotent

painter of 21 century. he works from Shantiniketan , kolkata.
After talking to him, I understand, the Lines and its tactile characteristic
to enhance the is an impotent material in Indian art for ages. Careful distortion
of the forms he imparts the aire of caricature in his figures of men and women
as most impotent and conveys all the aertisthas to express.
His current works tells more about experiences of cloth, bolsters, sofas
and human body are cross projected to produce uncanny world of transubstan-
tiation tumescence and placidness.
His inspiration is all about his life experiences in artistic manners.

Source- suresh, Okhla

 Self clicked, ookhla
Modern Art fare

Jeff koons is a world famous American artist. In 2018, keeping

the Indian culture and aesthetics in mind, He painted new se-
ries BMW car for this exhibition.
His reflection in an interview to DD Bharati, explain
how quickly Indian youth energy growing in compare to other
country in the world. His work of inspiration is balloon and
application of the balloon in different form shape in its sim-
pler form.

Source- Jeffkoons
Jeff koons Jeff koons art Source- Jeffkoons

Reflection:- It was great experience to visit to visit to a modern art fair. It helps me think how my thoughts and the artist thoughts are different to the socio-
cultural aspects. It is like visualize the future of Indian aesthetics by artist’s eye. As fashion design student, I have to built the Indian aesthetics, so that I can
understand the needs of Indian market also work on social issues.
Ultimately I really enjoyed this project as a part of visual culture.
 Flat sketch

Flat - 2 Flat - 3 Flat - 4

Flat - 1
Flat Sketch

Flat sketch
 Reflection : - Adobe Illustrator helps us to draw flat sketches through
cad. It is like blue print of every garment. I have learned the use of
different tools.

Flat sketch of my collection

 WEEK - 7
FILM, POSTER AND VISUAL COMMUNICATION
Visuual communication is a process of sending and receiving messages. communicating ideas through visuals. It serves a purpose greater than decoration.

Assignment Brief :- Create costume for a character from chosen movie. Make change to the story line to make sure the character is different from the origi-
nal. Give rational for the chosen costume.
Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone (2001), mixes modern, period and fantasy
costuming. Costume designer Judianna Makovsky researched modern yet tradi-
tional English private school uniforms. Makovsky depended upon her imagination
to create the costumes for Hogwarts’ colorful faculty and staff. Although Harry
Potter and his friends Ron and Hermione exist in an imaginary world, they are
modern teenagers, and when required must be dressed appropriately in jeans and
T-shirts.

Source- Movie Junction

Harry Potter

New plot :- Alex lives in a rural village of coal- mining district. Since
her fathers death, Alex must hunt to feed her starving family in the year
1107.
Alexy wears simple, functional clothing and is often seen with her bow and
arrows. Alex thrust into the spotlight when he arrives at the capital as a trib-
ute and must survive by cheating a celebrity women.
I want to create a hat with a lower crown so that it flatter his face and
a narrower brim, to keep his eyes visible to the camera. Then I want to create
a leather jacket with an “action pleat” at the Look of the new character Designed costume
back. This pleat will help the actor to raise his arm freely
when he will use his bow and arrow.
Assignment Brief : Choose any music band and talk about their influence on fashion. Site examples of FAD/Trends started by them.

Grunge Fashion
Grunge is born in the 1960s in America, with an infusion from 60s British bands (esp. the Yard-birds) added to a certain native raw energy. It was suburban young
guys playing as loudly and snottily as they could. At its best, it's exhilarating and exciting and direct. It doesn't aim any higher than that.
I love to hear Niravana as the key singer of 20th century of Grunge music. Both garage and punk wanted to recapture the energy of early rock & roll, but for
garage that energy was not yet spent, whereas by punk it had to be consciously recreated. I love the words of the UK music writer Ben Watson, in his comparison of
punk with the early Beatles singles: ‘It’s completely brilliant yet you think you could have come up with it yourself.’ It is both musically effective, and personally em-
powering. Even now that I’m a guitar player of 30 years with some jazz schooling and a fascination with Bach’s cello suites, I still find that to be the uniquely lovable
common factor between punk and garage.

The term "grunge" is used to define a specific moment in

twentieth-century music and fashion. Hailing from the
northwest United States in the 1980s, grunge went on to
have global implications for alternative bands and do-it-
yourself (DIY) dressing. While grunge music and style
were absorbed by a large youth following, its status as a
self-conscious subculture is debatable. People who listened
to grunge music did not refer to themselves as "grungers"
in the same way as "punks" or "hippies." However, like
these subcultures, grunge was co-opted by the music and
fashion industries through its promotion by the media. (
courtesy - British Vogue)

Key points Source- British vogue Source- Nifty

Graunge look in fashion Nirvana Grunge music band
1. Came in existance in 1980. Settle and was made famous by nirvana
2. Notable fir loose song, structures, Extremely loud, overdriven, fuzz, guitar tone, glowing aggressive vocal, all of these belies deeply melodic undertone.
3. People who consider themselves grunge value thrift-and utility rather than style. Anything that is second hand is automatically more appropriate and desirable.
4. Sunglasses and tall socks are an often- seen in grunge look. One can wear dated snap- bracelets or cheap jewelery.
Messy and gresy hair are both calling cards of the grunge look . For men, under-groomed facial hair and long dark hair quickly signal grunge.
 Grunge in fashion

Katrina in Vogue cover Source- Vogue India Vogue Paris Source- Vogue Itly
Source- Flicker Ranveer in Rockstar Source- Flicker Hritik in vogue

Source- Movie bucket Source- Bolyumasti Source- Funmasti Source- Flicker

Johny in C ash finger 2 Barun Dhawan in badlapur Amir in Dhoom 3 Katrina in Dhoom 3

Grunge style in the bollywood and the Vogue Magazine

 After gaining a huge popularity thanks to its celebrity fans and a
huge army of followers, the grunge fashion trend became one of the most
sought-after trends, characterized by carelessness, comfort and heavy
layering. The grunge style can be easily recognized by details and vibes
that give an outfit a worn-out, sloppy appearance. This means ripped
jeans, second-hand clothing, slouchy sweaters and tops, loose jackets and
pants, graphic t-shirts, clunky shoes (sneakers, combat boots), dark col-
ors, cropped tops, pattern mixing
Over the time the grunge style has undergone a number of
changes, bringing the neo-grunge style characterized by nearly the same
elements, only with a grown-up, polished look, the indie/ Hippie grun-
ge style, which stands out with its romantic, vintage vibe, and the glam
grunge look that is more feminine and luxurious. In all the cases, the
modern grunge style embodies sophistication and uptown aesthetics
with less ripped jeans and more feminine, ethereal looks quite often in-
terpreted in chiffon and organza. (Source- Fashionisers)

Source- Fashion isers

Change in Gurnge fashion
 week -8
Architecture and fashion

Coco Chanel famously said that “fashion is architecture: it is a matter of proportions.” As with most things the iconic designer said or did, it wasn’t long before the
world followed her lead.

Assignment Brief: Document any 3 designers work inspired from architecture. Talk/enumerate how the inspiration has been converted to form and textures.

Architecture is based on giving form and shape to different materials,

putting them together in order to create something practical, unique
and beautiful. These creations have been a big inspiration for numerous
fashion designers.
who recreate these architectural forms and turn them into fab-
ric. Patterns, curves, angles and colors found in modern buildings or
even in old classic churches are used as a food for thought by designers
and lead to impressive and futuristic clothes, shoes and jewelry.
Valentin uses the golden colored texture and the form has
brought in to the garment. in a flow manner. He also captured the curve
from the architecture with color combination. Finally the look is so
structural maintains the aesthetics of the architecture.

Valentin Yudashkin Spring 2014 – Pallais des Versailles inspired Source- Infofashion
 Bianca Luigi has Captured the Reflection of lighting the building,
then she created the fabric with Aluminum foil. She also main-
tained the shape , form, Contouring lines keeping the body shape
in mind. She used the same application of light in her garment.
Anyone can directly relate this garment to the architecture.

Source- Infofashion
Bianca Luini

Chole uses the aesthetics of the architecture in their garment. they created
a less fabric. They also maintain the essence of cemetery, in terms of feel ,
looks and the aesthetics. The form has been captured well as the pillar of
the cemetery in the silhouette. The repeating pattern has been captured in
less pater. In fact the meaning of peace in the cemetery also been captured
through the white color in the garment.

Reflection : Architecture is a long trend creation, where as fash-

ion is short term in trend. The way Designer kept the essence of
cultural value through their collection really inspires me. It is an
interesting learning how to connect people culturally through the
garment. It is the way of communicating visually to the people.

Chloe Spring/ Summer 2016 Source- Infofashion

 Contextual design

The Flow of Fashion

The distribution of fashion has been described as a movement, a flow, or trickle from one element of society to another. The diffusion of influences from
center to periphery may be conceived of in hierarchical or in horizontal terms, such as the trickle-down, trickle-across, or trickle-up theories.
Trickle down : The oldest theory of distribution is the trickle-down theory described by Veblen in 1899. To function, this trickle-down movement depends
upon a hierarchical society and a striving for upward mobility among the various social strata. In this model, a style is first offered and adopted by people at the
top strata of society and gradually becomes accepted by those lower in the strata (Veblen; Simmel; Laver). This distribution model assumes a social hierarchy
in which people seek to identify with the affluent and those at the top seek both distinction and, eventually, distance from those socially below them. Fashion is
considered a vehicle of conspicuous consumption and upward mobility for those seeking to copy styles of dress. Once the fashion is adopted by those below, the
affluent reject that look for another.

Source- style theorist

Tom martin , ss 12, london
Trickle across : Proponents of the trickle-across theory claim that fashion moves horizontally between groups on similar social levels (King; Robinson). In the
trickle-across model, there is little lag time between adoption from one group to another. Evidence for this theory occurs when designers show a look simul-
taneously at prices ranging from the high end to lower end ready-to-wear. Robinson (1958) supports the trickle-across theory when he states that any social
group takes its cue from contiguous groups in the social stratum. King (1963) cited reasons for this pattern of distribution, such as rapid mass communications,
promotional efforts of manufacturers and retailers, and exposure of a look to all fashion leaders. (Source- Fashion encyclopedia)

Collection from various designer

Source- Stylo
Trickle up : The trickle-up or bubble-up pattern is the newest of the fashion movement theories. In this theory the innovation is initiated from the street, so to
speak, and adopted from lower income groups. The innovation eventually flows to upper-income groups; thus the movement is from the bottom up.

Examples of the trickle-up theory of fashion distribution include a very early proponent, Chanel, who believed fashion ideas originated from the streets and then
were adopted by couture designers. Many of the ideas she pursued were motivated by her perception of the needs of women for functional and comfortable dress.
Following World War II the young discovered Army/Navy surplus stores and began to wear pea jackets and khaki pants. Another category of clothing, the T-shirt,
initially worn by laborers as a functional and practical undergarment, has since been adopted universally as a casual outer garment and a message board.

varsace, ss 11 Source- Styleo

 week 10

Research Analysis :
After the craft trip, I gathered lots of Information from the craft. When I researching over Jamdani. I get to know craftsmen never documented in any
form of the fashion. In jamdani weaving, the craftsmen has different story to tell. They are the real hero of the beautiful craft, If I talk about Specially for the
women, they are hardworking. Apart from the craft, they manage their family, kids, cooking and other things very well. When I more researched on the topic
they have very typpical dieses of white skin. This happen due to lacking of proper sunlight, as they were working in a closed room through out the day. This
desiese is called as vitiligo. When I Going to talk about the disease they hiding from me. So As designer, My social response is to promote the beauty of this
craftsmen. As they are not habituated to come in fron of other people having this disease.
To developed the the Graphics I will be focusing more on the beauty that every women has by their heart overhelming the skin colour.
Client Profile:
As I researched more, I came to know, There is international organization called VSI (vitiligo support International) will organize vitiligo campaign on
25 th june 2018 (Vitiligo day 25th june). They need Vitiligo related designed t shirt for the campaigning. the design should be meaningful and cost efficient.

Assignment Brief : Inspired by your craft experience create 6 graphics or prints on the same. One of them has to be implemented on the garment.

I choose Jamdani craftsmen study as my theme of

my collection. As they have a long history from 15th
century. Very Intricate art of weaving from Shanty-
ipur, Nadia, West Bengal.

Jamdani Theme board

Inspiration board:- To promote the beauty of the vitiligo effected people in the society, I showed different aspect of vitiligo in my inspiration board. I focused on
the beautiful face with the beautiful textured skin. Also I showed how they cry to come in the society with folded hand. It not only kept in that particular area.
Its a global Issue it does not make division working people or royal people. The fear of get ashemed is everywhere. Anyhow I will be focus on the color and aes-
thetics in the final outcome of my design.

Key words
1. Busy daily life
2. Workaholic
3. Patience
4.Skin color
5. Lack of sun rays
6. Success glory
7.

Inspiration Board
Trend forecast Source- WGSN
 Source- WGSN
Color forecast
In common ground, The vision of trend talks about Individualism Groups, create their subculture. People raising their voice by their dignity. Technical poly
Jersey, Patch work on the surface again in the trend. Colors will focusing on the bold color As they have to establish connection again on the trust. Allyship
Trend is much more focusing on the Sub group Expressing their protest over the culture.

Keywords
1. Youthful
2. Expressive
3.Indivisualism
4.Bold color
5. Eye catching
6.Patch work

Source- WGSN

trend Board
 Developed graphics

Design Ideas on paper

In the first Graphic I have used the con-
cept of Drop down your fear, awake up
your beauty. I did same with the Font.

Design 1
 Probable composition

Design 2

I have used the concept of super women. Who is powerful as well as beautiful in looking. Should not have fear of hiding. In the graphic she is coming
out from the hole of fear with beauty power.
 In this Graphics, I represent the vitiligo effected girl opening her face. Face is similar to
dream beauty girl Monalisa. To represent the beauty of the women. I have usd illustrator to
illustrate the artwork.

Design - 3

Design -4

In this Design, I have used the concept of a Hindi proverb “Sher P chadhake rakhe h kya”. In this context I put the vitiligo effected girl on hre top of a girl showing
the vitiligo effected girl is more powerful and beautiful in terms of heart. I have used Illustrator to make this Graphics.
 making process
Probable composition
Design -5

Here, I have used love Icon rose flower through line to promote the beauty. The beauty is glooming like the fragrance of the rose. I have create this artwork
by useing illustrator

Reflection : I Really enjoyed the project. As this contains lots of fun in the project. Lots of knowledge on different aspects of design. I learned about how to place
a graphic over a T shirt and their composition. As it will be the first collection as in my carier, I really like to happy to see the final outcome.
Sublimation Printing Process

After seeing the design I was confused about Print-

ing. Whether it should be digital Print or Sublima-
tion Print. Finally looking at the customer Profile I
decided to go with Sublimation Print, As it is time
and cost efficient for mass Production. For Sam-
pling They have charged 200 Rs. But If I have to
mass product it I have to pay only 18 rs per Piece.
Weather for Digital Print It will cost 50 rs
for mass production. Finally I am happy with the
out come. Then I made few patch work on it With
Dry felting Process on it to make it more visually
appealing.
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